The Baltic Guide ENG October 2015 by The Baltic Guide

O C T O B E R 2 0 15

Exhibit: Race to the End of the World Explore Viimsi Top 5 Family Activities in Tallinn Shopping: Estonian Design

Autumn Gourmet Nightlife: Local Secrets

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editorial

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Eating October

ood culture comes in all shapes and sizes and in Estonia it’s no different. IIn the four years that I have lived here, I have seen dozens of new restaurants open (and close sometimes), as well as the birth of many great culinary events and festivals. It seems that Estonia just can’t get enough! Take for example the annual street food festival that takes place at Telliskivi Creative City. Now in its second year, the festival has had to add a second day, just to accommodate the crowds. Restaurant weeks have gained in popularity and have spread out over the country to Tallinn, Pärnu, and Tartu. And let’s not forget the tens of smaller harvest events that take place in late summer around Estonia. That’s not all, September was also the first ever Estonian Food Month, where

Estonian food culture was not only celebrated throughout the country, but also in restaurants. October is a great month to visit Estonia, not only for the food, but for many other reasons. Theatre season is in full swing, with some great performances at the symphony and opera. Check out some of the new art and museum exhibitions including the fascinating Race to the End of the World, on now at the Seaplane Harbour. The Ants Laikmaa exhibit, Vigala and Capri on display at KUMU is also a worth a visit. And don’t forget to book your places at one of the many restaurants taking part in Tallinn Restaurant Week at the beginning of November.

Contents

Bon appetit and happy travels!

3 Editorial

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

restaurants re

October Highlights

4-5 Restaurants: Tuljak Grill 250 Restaurant News

01 LEGENDARY SAXOPHONIST IN TALLINN Norwegian Jan Gabarek is regarded as a living legend of jazz. Gabarek is performing on October 19 at the Nordea Concert Hall, along with pianist Rainer Brüninghaus, bass player Yuri Daniel and drummer Triluk Gurtug. Concert tickets can be purchased at Piletilevi.

02 RUSSIAN THEATER GEMS

shopping pping

03 “NIGHT FLYERS”

6 Beauty 8–9 Shopping 10 Nightlife 12 Day Trip: Viimsi 13 Events 14–15 Family Fun 16-17 Sightseeing 19 Getting Around 20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information

04 GUITAR VIRTUOSOS FESTIVAL

Photo: Rahvusooper Estonia

Over 20 guitarists from six different countries including Ralph Towner from USA, Adrian Legg from UK and Vaiko Eplik from Estonia will be taking part at the Viljandi Guitar Festival 13-17 October. Guitar music can be enjoyed at the Viljandi Pärimusmuusika granary, the old water tower, and St. John’s Church.

05 KARLSSON ON-THE-ROOF Astrid Lindgren’s beloved fictional book character Karlsson On-TheRoof is a new children’s musical that premieres at the Estonia on 6 November and will run throughout the winter. Tickets should be bought well in advance at Piletimaailm or through Piletilevi.

Pick up your free copy at:

OCTOBER 2015

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club,

Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Marilin Kaareste Style: Ženja Fokin Make-up: Oriflame Clothes: Gant Thanks to: Schlössle hotel

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The Estonian Museum of Natural History exhibition “Night Flyers” takes you into the mysterious world of owls and moths. At the museum you can find out how far an owl can turn his head. The exhibition is open in the Old Town, on Lai 29 until October 25.

Photo: Dahl

Kuldne Mask festival theater brings contemporary Russian theater to Tallinn. This includes the musical Chaplin at the Estonia Theatre on October 12 and 13 and at the Onegin Russian Theater on October 16 and 17.

restaurants

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Grilled Meat and Business Meetings

Grill 250 started the autumn season with buffet lunches for business people.

grill TEXT MIKKO IKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

DeVos Bakery & Resto

RESTAURANT NEWS A tiny taste of Belgium has come to Tallinn, in the form of De Vos, a bakery, confectionary and restaurant. All pastries are made from organic Estonian grain. Most of the flour is ground using a stone mill. The bakery is open on weekdays from 7.30, an hour later on Saturday and Sunday from 10. Tallinn’s restaurant culture was on the agenda again in Turu 09.30 -4.10 at the Food & Fun Market event and was attended by the chef Ranno Paukson of restaurant Ö as well as Bartender Agu Koit. TRW 2015 or Tallinn’s restaurant week will take place again from November 1-7. The event takes part in dozens of restaurants offering lunches and dinners at special prices. For more information you can find addresses and make bookings at www.tallinnrestaurantweek.ee. Bookings are a must.

The Savoy Boutique Hotel won the “Travel Oscar” from the World Travel Awards in recognition for being the best Estonian boutique Hotel for the third year in a row. The hotel’s restaurant, Mekk specialises in modern Estonian cuisine. In early November, the Vihula Manor is hosting a northern European week. This year’s theme is Denmark. The hotel’s current owner is not only Danish, but Danes have a history in Estonia that dates back to the 1100s. Jesper Brinkløv, a well known chef from Denmark will be in attendance. During the week, you can also see Sören Kent’s paintings and ceramics. ■

Location De Vos Bakery and Resto, Narva mnt 6, Tallinn A3. Savoy Boutique Hotel, Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town I2. Vihula Manor, Vihula, LääneVirumaa.

Mekk specialises in modern Estonian cuisine.

Lunch at Grill 250 includes udes a salad bar, r, soup, hot dishes es and assorted breads. ads. The lunch buffet is great for both individuals ividuals and groups. Even n vegetarians can easily prepare nutritious lunches. es. The freshly baked white te bread and rolls are also included ncluded in the lunch. Meat, fish, and vegetarian getarian options are complemented ented by the cake selection that is made fresh in the restaurant. You can have as many desserts as you like, if you still have room m after all the previous choices. Iff you enjoy a long lunch, the restautaurant is open on weekdays from om 12-15. The name of the restaurantt already indicates that beef will be cooked to the right temperature. Portions are sufficiently large. The most popular 300-gram sirloin is a decent portion. You can watch the barbeque masters at work from the dining room.

For those less hungry, the menu includes freshly made beef burgers, pizza, fish, and poultry options. If you love beer, recommendations are made to go along with your food and half-metre garlic sausages can be shared with a friend. This includes an appetizer from the buffet table. There is truly something for everyone. Grill 250 offers half price Saku Gold draught and Kiss Pear cider daily from 7pm. ■

Location?

Grill 250 ° Paldiski mnt 4, Tallinn B2. Open weekdays 12-23, weekends 13-23.

--------------------Grilled food : €12.00 to €2 5.00 Buffet-style business lunch: €16. 00 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

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restaurants

What’s Old is New After a great summer, Tuljak’s success continues on into autumn.

bistro TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tuljak was once a popular café during the Soviet period and now the same guys behind NOA and OKO reopened the Tallinn institution this past summer. It’s no wonder the place was an overnight success, it’s got one of the best terraces in the city overlooking the water. We visited on a cool night in September, and while the terrace is now closed, the restaurant showed no signs of slowing down for the winter season. It’s a bit tricky to find your way to Tuljak if you’ve never been there before. It sits atop a small hill and you actually have to go around the side to find the entrance. Hint, it’s not the first door you see, that’s the kitchen. The restaurant offers a beautiful panorama over the bay and a view of the Old Town in the distance. The sun sets through the windows and lights up the room. The menu is divided into three parts: snacks, appetisers, mains,

and desserts. We tried the salted mackerel to start with radish, onion, and soy mirin sauce. The dish was a bit of an Asiameets-Eastern Europe fusion that worked - with each bite of the salted mackerel one expects pickled cucumbers on the side, but the soy mirin sauce was a pleasant combination. Next, if you’re looking for a fancy schnitzel, this is the place to come. The veal schnitzel “ROSÉ” was served with apple purée, horseradish, and stump mushroom salad. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, this is a dish we would come back for. Save room for dessert and try the Tuljak tiramisu with blueberries. ■

Location Tuljak Restoran Pirita tee 26e, Tallinn 5A --------------------Appetisers €6 – €15 Mains €18 – €24 Desserts €6 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

beauty

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No-needle mesotherapy at Tiia Ilusalong.

What to Know Before You Go Professional service and great prices are just two reasons why you should come to Tallinn for your beauty treatments. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

You’ve probably heard of procedures like mesotherapy, ultrasound, and microdermabrasion, maybe you’ve even tried them. All of these procedures and more are available at some of the many beauty salons you will find throughout the city. Prices in Tallinn are much lower than in places like London and Helsinki. Take for example the no-needle mesotherapy: in Tallinn the procedure at Tiia Ilusalong costs 52, whereas in London prices start at 60. Here’s a quick overview of some of the most popular procedures.

part, you can get on with your day straight away. Tiia Piirisild, manager at Tiia Ilusalong, recommends 4-6 treatments for the best results.

again, there is no recovery time needed, so you can get right on with your day. One treatment is usually enough, but it depends on the skin type. Sometimes one might need up to three treatments to see the desired effect.

Mesotherapy Traditional mesotherapy uses a needle to do the exact same as mentioned above, though with a little bit of pain and possibly with slightly faster and better results. The needles used are very short and thin. It’s particularly effective in treating cellulite, but can also be used on the face. With this option, you will need to rest afterwards and give the treated area time to heal.

No-needle mesotherapy

Ultrasound

This is perhaps one of the most popular treatments out there because it offers the same great results as traditional mesotherapy, but without the pain. Instead, it uses electric pulses that deliver ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin to the mesoderm or middle layer of the skin. This deeply hydrates and plumps up the skin. The best

Ultrasound is now used for a lot more than just seeing into the womb. It’s another non-invasive treatment used to lift the skin (in particular the eyebrow, neck, and under the chin, as well as lines and wrinkles in the chest area) and promote collagen production by targeting deep tissue layers (5mm deep) to make sure the treatment goes where it’s needed. Once

Microdermabrasion While this might sound painful, it’s actually quite gentle. It exfoliates the outer layer of dead skin cells, vacuuming them away as it goes along, leaving your skin feeling softer and smoother, and ultimately more vibrant after about 6-10 treatments. The machine uses crystals or diamonds to exfoliate through a handheld wand that creates a vacuum when it touches the skin. Recovery time is 1-2 days, as your skin may be a little pink afterwards. It’s a good treatment option for those with mild acne and superficial scars. ■

Location No-needle mesotherapy uses electric pulses that deliver ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin to the mesoderm or middle layer of the skin.

Tiia Ilusalong Melon Centre 3rd Floor Estonia pst 1/3, Tallinn www.tiiakosmetika.ee

Read articles online:

ESTONIAN FIREFIGHTING MUSEUM Raua street 2, Tallinn 10124 Ph: (+372) 53 028 404 e-mail: muuseum@rescue.ee www.tuletorjemuuseum.ee

Open Monday ‒ Thursday 9:00 ‒ 17:00 Friday 9:00 ‒ 15:30

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St. Patrick’Ɛ ůŽĐĂƟŽŶƐ͗ in Old Town: Suur-Karja 8 in City: Narva mnt 5 on the beach: Merivälja tee 5

shop

■ Department Stores

Est

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Ööloom “Face Blanket”, €30, Nu Nordik

September celebrated festival. We know something local. Here’s

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

Elina Müürsepp Hats, €28, Nu Nordik

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Anu Kaelussoo Mustikas (Blueberry), €28, Nu Nordik

Urmas Lüüs Sügisball Brooch, €22, Nu Nordik

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. B3. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Eco Tree Necklace €85, Earrings, €65 (Coloured copper and silver), Tali

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.

Oreflector Reflective Badge, €5.50, Nü Nordik

pping

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TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

tonian Design the best and brightest of Estonian design during the 10th annual Design Night you’re looking for something a little different, and what better souvenir than a look at some of the latest designs from some of Estonias Estonia’s talented designers. Keiu Koppel Computer Chip Brooch, Brass/Silver €56, Les P Petites

Tartuensis Notebook €8, Les Peti Petites ite t s Mokoko Leather Wal Wallets €40. Les Petites

Luik Concrete/Steel Earrings, €17 Les Petites

Maria Rästa Design Clock, €40, Tali Mar

Where to buy Wh TAL TALI Voorimehe 4, Tallinn Old Town Voo Kotzebue 33, Tallinn Kotz Les Petites Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn Tellis Nordik Nu N Vabaduse Väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Vaba

3D Printer Necklace, Mihkel Kaarma, €46, Les Petites

Jonurm Long Vest, €210, Tali

Streetwear by Kirju, Necklace, €20, Tali

Ester Faiman Earrings, €145-150, Tali

More souvenirs Looking for something more traditional? Here’s a list of where to buy Estonian handicraft and other gifts and souvenirs: ■ Estonian Handicraft House Pikk 22, Tallinn Old Town ■ Eesti Esindus Viru 3, Tallinn Old Town ■ Hää Eesti Asi Aia 1 / Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town ■ Katariina Guild Vene 12 / Katariina käik, Tallinn Old Town ■ Krambude Vana-turg 1, Tallinn Old Town ■ Oma Asi Saiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town ■ Saaremaa Sepad Nunne 7, Tallinn Old Town ■ Sepa Äri Olevimägi 7, Tallinn Old Town ■ Willmar Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town

nightlife

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Kolm Lõvi

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

WHERE THE TOURISTS DON’T GO

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Cubanita Live Cafe Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn A2.

Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Karaoke

Protest

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn A2.

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town G1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

his month, we think you need to take a look at the bars where foreigners don’t go in such great numbers, because it is there that you find the real Estonia, and see, for affordable prices, how the locals socialise. All of these diverse watering-holes are guaranteed to entertain and enlighten you. Let’s take a look at the unexplored side of Tallinn.

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3.

La Casa del Habano

Café Amigo

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Sigari Maja

Club Baila

Põrgu

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Põrgu means purgatory, but don’t be put off; it’s much closer to heaven than hell. It’s a secluded bar set into what looks like a trading house in the Old Town. It’s hard to find, but once you get there, you’re in for a treat. The cavernous bar, which is accessible through an old wooden door and up a flight of stairs, allows you to drink with your friends while feeling a part of the history of Tallinn. Nestling in quiet Rüütli street, this is a bar which only knowledgeable people frequent - and that’s where you come in. The drinks offered include a generous number of Estonian and international beers, while also having a menu full of traditional treats, alongside some international flavours such as the cheesy, breaded jalapeno peppers! The atmosphere, in spite of its location, is always lively, and Põrgu is an excellent place to start a night out, especially if you want to experience the real Estonia. Põrgu comes recommended for its easy charm, its unfussy inter-

Karja Kelder

Club Privé

Põrgu

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

ior, and the feeling you get of the place being your own little secret. The lack of a reliable phone signal when you’re under all that stone is also a hidden advantage; it means that you will find it much easier to make conversation with the person you came in with.

Karja Kelder Vaike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

For a similar experience to Põrgu, but situated in a more central spot, Karja Kelder is a great option. All the beers you could have hoped for are there, but there is, in my opinion, a slightly better food menu at this bar. Alongside the occasional

western option are a series of tasty Estonian treats that should fill you up without leaving a hole burning in your pocket. Located down, rather than up, a series of stone steps, Karja Kelder also gives an otherworldly feel, as if you have travelled back in time - an illusion only broken by the music playing in the bar, and the regularly-used betting machine by the door. However, distractions are limited, and this is a fine bar for spending time chatting, with the acoustics excellent in every part of the room. The clientele, due to Karja Kelder’s location close to the usual tourist trap of Nimeta and Shooters, is more mixed than in Põrgu, with foreigners and Estonians sharing the space on most nights. You can be sure that you’ll be more than welcome here, and you’ll want to stay once you arrive.

Kolm Lõvi Kopli 14, Tallinn A1

From quiet, considered, Estonian bars, to the place where the strange magic happens. When you step into Kolm Lõvi, it’s like the

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2. Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kolmas Draakon

Loung Club Violet

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Roseni 9, Tallinn A2.

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Teater

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn B3.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Valli Baar

Vabank

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Karja Kelder

Photo: Stina Kase

Tapper

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Late Night Dining

Chicago 1933

Istanbul Kebab

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Estonia pst 7, Tallinn B2.

Clazz

Loca

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

NYC Piano Bar

Söögiplats

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Rock Café

Taco Express

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn C4.

Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

saloon bar in one of those cartoon westerns: it’s as though the air goes still. The music carries on, but everyone in the bar looks round, curious about the new visitor. Kolm Lõvi has gained a degree of notoriety for being the only bar in Tallinn’s Kalamaja district to stay open after 2am. Inside, Russian disco music blares, people enjoy themselves, completely unselfconsciously, and it’s clear there is a great party going on here. Someone asks me, using her eyes only, to vacate my seat, as it is hers. She does this with the withering look of someone who idolises Clint Eastwood’s character in “Gran Torino” and doesn’t like to be messed-with. Meanwhile, several women aged over 40 are pirouetting around a pole that has been

placed, randomly, in the middle of the dancefloor, presumably for the amusement of the regulars. It works. No need for snobbery here - for a smooth, luxury experience, there is always the bar of your hotel, but for a true Tallinn latenight survival epic, head to Kolm Lõvi. You might surprise yourself with what you find there. My advice, though: go with a friend, as the groups of people who frequent Kolm Lõvi tend to know each other very well, and you will wish to share the experience with someone. ■

✎ Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

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Authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest beer. Come and taste it.

day trip

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 5

A Seaside Bicycle Tour

Viimsi’s captivating seaside towns are an easy bicycle ride from Tallinn.

TALLINNA

GULF OF FINLA

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ROHUNEEME

Prangli

Pandju

KELVINGI LEPPNEEME

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PÜÜNSI

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RMK Viimsi HAABNEEME Nature Centre

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Museum of the Coastal Folk

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Viimsi Open Air Museum

PRINGI

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RANDVERE

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A Viimsi Manor Estonian War Museum

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Rohuneeme village is situated on a beautiful sandy beach.

Viimsi Peninsula Kräsuli

The trip continues to Pringi, with the sea sparkling on the west side all the time. Suddenly, something big “floats” above: a sea eagle, a second and a third fly large arcs in the sky. On closer inspection, it turns out that the bird closest to the ground is young and the other two are older, white-tailed eagles; the whole family is out for a daily flight. A woman watching children play on the beach, claims that the eagles were there the previous day. “One flew over us quite low”.

Viimsi Peninsula

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■ Viimsi is Estonia’s wealthiest parish, made up of about 19,000 inhabitants. The peninsula is 10 km long and 5 km wide. ■ From Tallinn city center, one can bicycle to Rohuneeme in a couple of hours. The trip is about 19 km. ■ There are many worthwhile sights along the way: the Viimsi Open Air Museum, the Museum of Coastal Folk, the Estonian War Museum, and the RMK Nature Centre. The west coast of the peninsula has numerous restaurants and some village shops. ■ Bus number 1 runs from the center of Tallinn to Viimsi. You can rent a bike in the Old Town. Additional Information: www. visitviimsi.com

Beside the older houses are high-quality eco houses with Porsches and other expensive “toys”. It has to stand out somehow, after all, that Viimsi is one of the richest areas outside of Tallinn. Along with property there are Viimsi traditions, some time ago there was the famous Kirov collective farm, which in addition to the production of fishery products, produced shampoo and souvenirs. The Rannarahva Museum shows everyday life on the collective farm. At Rohuneeme village store you can see Pandju Island in the distance, which you can walk to at low tide. According to the information sign terns and ducks breed on the island and going to the island is banned during nesting season. Today, the beaches are quite empty, the birds are already migrating towards their winter homes. Rohuneeme is finally in front of me, the 20 km long bike ride can now be felt, so I stop to rest at a crossroad. I am startled when someone behind me says “hello”. An older woman walking her dog greets me with friendliness. The same is repeated a few more times, as this village also welcomes strangers, so I know I have arrived. The atmosphere in Rohuneeme is chatty. This beach village has an air of security and peace. Not

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Viimsi Peninsula

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The morning sun is warming when you head about twenty kilometres towards the Viimsi peninsula. The coastal Pirita road is soon behind you, and the smell of the algae on the beach forces you to pedal faster. At Haabneeme beach fresher winds are blowing. The idyllic, coastal atmosphere is overshadowed by the Coast Guard’s warning of blue-green algae (cyanobacteria). Despite this, the beach is full of people when the weather is warm. Haabneeme shows among other things, Viimsi’s good reputation. Lush gardens with apple and pear trees, and tomatoes ripening in greenhouses are on both sides of the road. The well maintained bike path runs along the seashore for most of the journey. The ride is easy. Soon, you can see the Viimsi Open Air museum farmhouses with thatched roofs. For three euros you can familiarise yourself with the heritage buildings. The skyscrapers of the Tallinn skyline can be seen in the distance along the coastline and it creates an interesting contrast with the scenery.

Ran

TEXT AND PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA, MAP EVE JAANSOO

VIIMSI CENTRE

Tallinn 12 km

surprisingly, Lennart Meri (Estonia’s first president after re-independence) liked it here. Estonia’s legendary president lived in his Rohuneeme home for nearly 10 years. I cannot admire Meri’s beautiful house as it is located in a fenced area at the tip of the peninsula. Aegna Island seems almost “untouched”, Prangli is much farther offshore. Viimsi includes Prangli, Naissaar, Aksi and Keri, as

well as a few more smaller islands. Some of the islands are connected to the Viimsi port. The sea is always beside Rohuneeme. One can only imagine how it can be during winter storms when the cold winds sweep over the village from the sea. At present, however, life seems to be smiling, the sea breeze blowing softly, and the voices of children playing on the beach are transmitted quite far. ■

August at Pringi beach.

events

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Pärnu Café Week

Photo: Silver FGutmann

3-11 October, Pärnu, Various Locations Taking place for the first time, Pärnu’s Café Week showcases the best tea and coffee culture in this seaside town. A total of 24 cafés will take part. During the week, specials including salad, dessert, and a cup of coffee/tea will be on offer for €7. Bookings are recommended.

Tartu City Marathon/ Tartu City Run 2015

Photo: Press

3 October, Tartu The Tartu City Marathon takes runners through the streets of this beautiful and historic university town. Choose between the marathon (42 km), halfmarathon (21 km) as well as 10 km of Tartu City Run and Tartu Student Marathon. Nordic walkers are welcome on the 10 km distance.

EUFA Qualifier

Tallinn Fashion Week

Estonia vs Switzerland

21-24 October, Tallinn, Telliskivi Creative City Green Hall One of the highlights of the autumn season, Tallinn Fashion Week is a must for any fashionista. The event celebrates Estonian design and attract thousands of designers and enthusiasts annually. More information can be found at www.estonianfashion.eu.

12 October, A. Le Coq Arena, Tallinn Tickets: Piletilevi

Photo: Saaremaa Rally

Photo: Martin Saar

2-4 October, Tallinn, Saku Suurhall This annual equestrian event hosts FEI World CupTM qualifiers in dressage and in show jumping. The Tallinn International Horse Show brings together some of the best riders from the Central European League, including the best riders from Estonian show jumping and dressage. Last year’s competition saw 122 athletes, 198 horses from nine different countries take place. It was attended by over 12,000 spectators. It’s an event for the whole family. There will be a special play area for kids, as well as equestrian performances just for kids too. Tickets are available from Piletilevi.

Photo: Press

Tallinn International Horse Show 2015

■ Event and Concert Tickets 48th Saaremaa Rally 9-10 October, Kuressaare

In 1974, the first rally took place on the island of Saaremaa and has grown in popularity ever since. In 1993 the event went international. The rally is best known for its Kaugatuma-

Toomalõuka speed trials. The town trial is regaining its popularity. This year’s rally will bring in drivers from Finland, though the roads of Saaremaa are no stranger to the likes of drivers like Sebastian Lindholm-Pertti Lahtinen and women’s world champion Eija Jurvanen. More information about the event can be found at www.saaremaarally.eu.

Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

family Old Town cafes sweeten the senses.

Old Town fo Five great activities to enjoy TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Climb the tower and dress up in armour Around the Old Town, about twenty of the ancient towers have survived and some of them can also be viewed from the inside. Kiek in de Kök, near the Freedom Square is one of the strongest, most well built turrets in Europe. Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta), however, is known for its very thick-walled lookouts. Within its walls are approximately 155 cannon portholes, and the tower also houses the contemporary Eston-

ian Maritime Museum. In the 14th century Epping Tower, you can try on armour and admire the medieval weapons. Fat Margaret, Pikk 70. Tallinn Old Town A2. Epping Tower, Laboratooriumi 31. Tallinn Old Town A2.

as bomb shelters and warehouses. The tunnels can be accessed only by guided tour. This attraction is not recommended for children under seven years of age. Kiek in de Kök and Bastion tunnels, Komandandi tee 2. Tallinn Old Town B1.

Adventurous tunnels

In the bottom floor of the Kiek in de Kok tower there is access to the underground Bastion tunnel, the oldest parts of which were been built in the 16th century. During different eras the tunnels have functioned, among other things,

Taste the marzipan and pastries

Situated near the Town Hall, Maiasmokk is worthy of its name as a pastry café. The little ones will see pieces of cake, pink cookies and sweets behind the counter. In the same building as the café is the Kalev Martsipanimuuseum (Kalev Marzi-

Experience the atmosphere of past centuries.

y fun

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 5

Review: “The Adventures of Ronik in Tallinn”

or Children with the whole family in Tallinn. pan Room), which is a fun museum because one can taste the confectionaries. Visitors can also buy marzipan animals and other figurines. Maiasmokk, Pikk 16. Tallinn Old Town G2.

Take the train through the city

A fun old-fashioned fun train ride goes through the cobbled streets of the Old Town. On board, the whole family can relax and get off their tired feet, while admiring the medieval buildings. The blue locomotive starts every twenty minutes from Town Hall Square at Kullassepa tänav.

Explore the world of museums

In the Old Town are several museums that are interactive for all members of the family including kids. Nuku is a puppet theater and a museum, where you can become acquainted with Estonia’s most famous puppet theater actors and characters. Due to renovations theatrical performances will take place this season, at the Auna theater in Pelgulinn. The Museum of Natural Sciences (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) delves into Estonian nature. Plan to allow more time for your visit as the museum is on three different

floors. Learn all about owls and moths at the temporary exhibit until October 25. The Estonian History Museum (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) takes you on an interactive journey back 11,000 years ago. The museum is located in the Great Guild Hall (Suurgildi hoone), near the Maiasmokk cafe. ■ NUKU, Nunne 8. Tallinn Old Town G1. Estonian Museum of Natural Sciences, Lai 29a. Tallinn Old Town F2. Estonian History Museum, Pikk 11 Tallinn Old Town G2.

Petrone Print, the renowned Estonian publishing company, makes a foray into children’s literature with this delightful story about Ronik, a dog owned by a family from Moscow who makes frequent trips to Tallinn. Anait Piruzyan demonstrates her love for the Estonian capital in every page of this geographicallyaccurate, and yet fantastical, piece of imaginative writing. On his walk, Ronik, a loyal and obedient dog to his owners, hears a guinea pig speak to him inside his favourite place of all, Tallinn Old Town’s pet shop. The guinea pig, who later tells Ronik she is called Beatrice, instructs him to come to a statue in Lembitu Park. Though Ronik hesitates, eventually he decides the temptation is too great. When there, Beatrice leads Ronik on a sweeping adventure that takes place across the Old Town and involves all of the city’s historic statues, as well as a large part of the pet population. Priit Rea’s illustrations bring home, with realistic pictures, the real-life beauty of the Old Town. If you’ve visited Tallinn, or you live there, you’ll love the instantlyrecognisable places and monuments. If you’ve never visited Tallinn in your life, you’ll fall for the city over the course of this well-

told, nicely-paced story. Without spoiling the plot, which has a twist that will make you smile and cry at the same time, this is a book about imagination, about the way that magic happens when you believe that play is real, and about understanding who is a true friend and taking care of them. Other important themes, such as sharing, taking time to look after others, and not allowing people to be spiteful or jealous, are also covered, in a tale that is old-fashioned in the right way, taking you and your child on a timeless journey while teaching that those who are ultimately happiest are those who do what feels like the right thing for others. The language level is about on a par with the third class in an English primary school, between the ages of 8 and 10, and if English is not your child’s first language, you should take good care to go through the difficult words with him or her. Some of the turns of phrase feel like they were not written by a native English-speaker (as they were not), although this is not something that prevents enjoyment, just as it did not for Töve Jansson’s Moomin stories. As with those, the message is delivered subtly, rather than being hammered home, and “The Adventures of Ronik in Tallinn” is all the better for it. ■

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TEXT STUART GARLICK

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 5

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1.

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ O C TO B E R 2 0 1 5

sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built

Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla)

Kadriorg

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at: St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

TALLINN ■ Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum. ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1. www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions

Missing Identity Prague through the lens of the secret police MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

Race to the End of the World The fascinating tale of conquering the South Pole. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

For those of you not familiar with the story, it goes like this: Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen and British Navy officer Robert Falcon Scott were on two separate expeditions in 1911 for the South Pole. Sadly however, one was not to return. The Race to the End of the Earth is a tale of adventure and hardship, triumph and sorrow, and of course courage and bravery. “There are three things I absolutely love about this exhibit. One, it really is larger than life. The story is truly remarkable and it’s hard not to leave inspired. Two, there is something for everyone to learn. And three, while the story begins with Amundsen and Scott, it continues with other who have been just as crazy and their stories are fascinating too”, explains Ann Virkus, in charge of sales for the exhibit, exuberantly. The exhibit starts from the beginning of the tale and shows that while the two men embarked on the same mission, their routes, teams, and equipment were very different. “Scott's team was very much based on hierarchy, whereas Amundsen chose men that were the very best at what they did”, explain Virkus. Partially reconstructed base camps are on display, as well as

equipment, photos, maps, and more. Upon entering the exhibit, you can pick up a card that shows you which team you are a part of, then as you wander through the exhibit you can follow the story of that team member. For children there is a passport, where they can collect stamps at each of the stops. As we mentioned before, there is much more than just Amundsen’s and Scott’s tales. Learn about nature and wildlife in the Antarctic, climate and weather conditions, as well as modern day Antarctic exploration, which also shows what a modernday camp looks like. And did you know that Estonians have a long history of Antarctic exploration too? The exhibit finishes with a look at Estonians who have gone to Antarctica and their missions there. In addition to the exhibit, the Seaplane Harbour will also be hold-

ing a lecture series called Maritime Forums every second Tuesday. In October the schedule is: Why Are We Fascinated by the Antarctic? on October 6 and Lessons from Antarctica: Burden of Fire on October 20. On Halloween, October 31, spend a night at the museum and watch The Thing trilogy (The Thing from Another World (1951 / 87 min), The Thing (1982 /109 min), The Thing (2011 / 103 min)) just like the Antarctic explorers do at the beginning of winter. More info as well as schedules can be found at: www.lennusadam.eu ■

Location Race to the End of the World will be on display from 29 August 2015 – 3 April 2016. Seaplane Harbour Estonian Maritime Museum Vesilennuki tee 6, Tallinn

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ OOCC TTOOBBEERR 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala

Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

From the driver

4 7 5

J. Poska

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Looga Mustjõe

Linnahall Port

KADRIORG

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HAABERSTI

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Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

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VäikePaala

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KRISTIINE

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VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE VäikeÕismäe

2, 4

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Vineeri

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ÜLEMISTE

Löwenruh Linnu tee

Aiandi

Nurmenuku

TallinnVäike

Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Tondi

3, 4

Where to buy

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Kaja

Szolnok

■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please..................................................... palun thank you ............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me ............................................ vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning .................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening ..................................... tere õhtust good night ........................................... head ööd goodbye ............................................... nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip................................. head reisi bon appetite ....................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ OOCC TTOOBBEERR 22001155

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,75 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,30 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ Bt air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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ÂŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

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