The Baltic Guide ENG November 2013 by The Baltic Guide

Best Italian Restaurants PÖFF – Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival

Nightlife in the Old Town Getting in the holiday spirit – Fairs and markets, mulled wines, and other Estonian Christmas favourites!

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ENGLISH EDITION

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N O V E M B E R 2 0 13

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Cosy sweaters and mulled wine

ou can tell that the holidays are just around the corner from the smell of mulled wine or glögg wafting through the streets of the Old Town. For those that have never tried this seasonal favourite, do not tread lightly. Glögg can be any combination of red wine or white wine mixed with dried fruit, nuts and spices (cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, cloves, orange peel), but the real kick comes from those mulled wines that have vodka, or brandy added. Another familiar holiday smell is that of sauerkraut. Once the annual Christmas market opens in the Town Hall Square, large pans over open flames will be cooking up this traditional soured cabbage, along with blood sausage and potatoes. In this issue we’ve got everything you need to get your Christmas shopping done early and have a

little time to relax with a cup or two a mulled wine! There is no shortage of Christmas fairs both here and in the southern Estonian university town of Tartu! We’ve got some tips on where to try holiday foods in Tallinn, as well as which is the best glögg on the market. Tallinn nightlife heats up as the nights get colder – check out Maarja-Liisa’s guide to all the best pubs and clubs in Tallinn too.

Contents Happy travels!

3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

restaurants

November Highlights Photo: EAS

8-9 restaurants 16-17 Christmas food & drink

01 A PEEK AT THE TITANIC The fate of the world’s most famous ship gets a realistic portrayal at the Titanic exhibit, which will open 15 November at the Tallinn Seaplane Harbour. There are over 150 items at the show which were found four kilometers deep in the sea by the shipwreck. Visitors to the exhibit will also see a reconstruction of many of the ship's rooms.

shopping

02 SANTA AND HIS REINDEER AT THE CHRISTMAS MARKET The legendary Christmas market of Old Town opens on 22 November. Different kinds of handicrafts from Santa’s toy bag are offered at the shops at the Town Square and next to the country’s most beautiful Christmas tree is Santa Claus himself with his reindeer.

10-11 nightlife 12-13, 15 shopping 19 beauty 20 relaxation 21 museum 22 tartu 23 november events 25 museum 26 transport 27 around Estonia 28-30 maps and information

03 FROM LIGHT TO NOVEMBER DARKNESS Tallinn’s city center and Old Town will turn into a light installationfrom 24 November – 1 December. It is the first time in Tallinn that the event will be organised with Tallinn Light Biennale. Photo: E.M. Concert Group

04 SCORPIONS SING The German band Scorpions will rock Tallinn at the Saku Suurhall 12 November. Their hits will raise the roof! Tickets can be bought from Piletilevi, starting from €29.

05 JAZZING INTO CHRISTMAS The main performer of the Christmas Jazz Festival, New York Voices, will perform on 3 December together with the Estonian Big Band at Nokia Concert House. Other main perfomers include the singer Krystle Warren and pianist Shai Maestro. The Jukka Perkon band at Niguliste Church offers lighthearted entertainment on 4 December.

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur tel +372 58 502 477

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Marilin Kaareste Makeup: Oriflame Style: Ženja Fokin Clothes: Gant, Liina Stein Thank you to Schlössle Hotel

@ balticguide_en

NOVEMBER 2013

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

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The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible. Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars. Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open daily 11-23.

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 29 47

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sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Photo: T. Tuul

Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Kiek in de kök

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Photo: J. Nilson

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Photo: Jaak Nilson

p i r T y Da

TALLINN

Maardu

Paldiski Keila

Outside of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

Saue

Tallinn – Paldiski With the days getting shorter, and a little cooler, it’s safe to say you won’t be headed to the beach for sunbathing. If you’re looking for a bit of history and some beautiful natural scenery, then this is the day trip for you.

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Prior to 1994, Paldiski was a Soviet military base and home to 16,000 military personnel. After 1994, and after the military base closed, the population reduced quickly to about 4,300, its population today. The town has been in a state of decay, but slowly seems to be turning around with new investments and development, in particular near the port. Just outside of Paldiski is the Pakri peninsula. The peninsula itself is stunning, with tall limestone cliffs, and is home to the rare black guillemots, which look like small penguins. The Soviet ruins (abandoned bunkers and military debris) that are scattered along the peninsula are being torn down to clean up the area. Other attractions include the red lighthouse, a tsarist era train station, and the Pakri wind farm. ■

Location

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Paldiski is located about 50km west of Tallinn. It’s easy to get there by bus or train. Trains leave from Balti jaam train station and take just over an hour to get there. For train timetables visit: www.edel.ee

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Kadriorg Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

The name Tallinn originates from the Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

The city's best pizza! Small pizza 3.90 

Large pizza 5.90

Open everyday 11-23 Väike-Karja 6, Old Town, Tallinn Phone +372 641 871 8 +372 505 561 6 info@pizzagrande.ee www.pizzagrande.ee



Family size pizza 11.90 

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

Salad 3.50

The ﬁrst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Coffee 1.20

rja

Taste one of our delicious dishes!

iva

Suur-Karja

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Mü

Dunkri

Raek oja

Ven e

egi

Town Hall Square

tur

kael

Our pork hocks are the most popular in Estonia!

Apte

a Van

Only at Baieri Kelder – Enjoy local Estonian beer and Paulaner unfiltered beer from Munich in the bottle and on tap.

rim

Baieri kelder was founded in 1997 in the city centre of Tallinn. We offer new tasty dishes made according to Modern German recipes.

Pepper Steak 13.90€ÊUÊSouth Indian chicken curry 8€

Vo o

kan

Modern German restaurant

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ÊUÊGrilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

Mündi

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

House Wine 2.90€ÊUÊAppetisers 2€

Pikk

Kinga

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ÊUÊBeer 2.50€

Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town) Saia

Irish coffee 4€ÊUÊVodka 2€

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square

Kullassep a

Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

www.baierikelder.ee Roosikrantsi 2a, Tallinn • Phone +372 640 0040



Beer 2.50

INDIAN RESTAURANT

Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Su 14.00-23.00

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15



Soft drinks 1.30

un a



Pasta 4.90

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Restaurant/Pub

Viru

restau

Takeaway ■ Pizzapoisid, Tondi 32 and Sõle 31. ■ TACO Express, Suur-Karja 18. Tallinn Old Town I2. ■ Peetri Pizza, 15 locations in Tallinn. Most central: Mere pst. 6, Liivalaia 17. ■ Pappa Pizza, Kadaka tee 56A, Punane 48, Pärnu mnt. 326. ■ New York Pizza, Tartu mnt. 73, Merivälja tee 3G and Mahtra 1. ■ Uno Pizza, Vesivärava 37 and Mustika Keskus, A.H. Tammsaare tee 116 ■ Opera Pizza, Kotka 3B. ■ Tiina Pizza, Liivalaia 27, Mustamäe tee 39.

Italian cuisine continues to grow

Italy on Ta izza and pasta come to mind when talking about traditional Italian cuisine. They have come to be the most widely known foods, along with Parmesan cheese. Tallinn’s restaurant map is spotted with Italian restaurants. Here are a few of our favourites. Buon appetito!

Italian Restaurants ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Gelsomino, Lai 2. Tallinn Old Town H1-G1. Bocca, Olevimägi 9. Tallinn Old Town F3. Francesco Sibio, Estonia pst. 9. Tallinn B2. Pulcinella, Suur-Karja 2. Tallinn Old Town I2. Massimo, Maakri 25. Tallinn B3. Gianni, Jõe 4a. Tallinn A3. Gusto, Toompuiestee 8. Tallinn B1. Trattoria del Gallo Nero, Lai 32. Tallinn Old Town G1. ■ Il Gioco – Klaaspärlimäng, Pärnu mnt 32. Tallinn B2. ■ Il Gioco – Kesklinna kohvik, Kullasseppa 4. Tallinn Old Town H1. ■ La Bottega, Vene 4. Tallinn Old Town H2.

Wood Fire Ovens in Tallinn ■ ■ ■ ■

Other Pizzerias ■ Vapiano, Foorum Keskus, narva mnt 5 and Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst 9. Tallinn B2. ■ Rosso Tallinna, Tartu Mnt. 87. Tallinn C4. ■ Pizza Grande, Väike-Karja 6. Tallinn Old Town I2. ■ Basiliik, Hobujaama 5. Tallinn B2. ■ Boheemi Pizza, Kopli 18. Tallinn A1. ■ Old Style, Retke tee 1. ■ Pizza Americana, Müürivahe 2. Tallinn Old Town J1.

Attimo, Peterburi tee 49, Tallinn. Rucola Restoran & Pizzeria, Ehitajate tee 114a, Õismäe Controvento, Vene 12, Tallinn Old Town H3. Kärme Küülik, Estonia pst 5. Tallinn B2.

A First Class Trattoria You can’t go wrong with Italian food. TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Buon appetito!

A large portion of seafood pasta at La Bottega.

A trattoria is the least formal type of Italian restaurant and La Bottega is just that –chequered tablecloths, linen napkins, and rustic cutlery. Tall wine racks line the walls in a plain glass case. The décor of the restaurant is somewhere between a local bistro and a three star Michelin restaurant, a combination that is rarely seen. The menu is traditional Italian cuisine with a wide selection of pastas, risottos, seafood, and meat dishes. The only thing missing is pizza. Italian wines from different regions, ranging in price from inexpensive table wines to top quality bottles, divide the wine list. The water is San Pellegrino, and of course you can finish your meal with some quality grappa too!

The value for money at La Bottega is great. The dishes are prepared from top quality raw ingredients, portions are large, and the flavours are just like in Italy. You certainly won’t get bored with this menu. On our

The menu is traditional Italian cuisine with a wide selection of pastas, risottos, seafood, and meat dishes. visit we decided to let the kitchen make suggestions. The antipasti platter came with Parma ham, salami, anchovies mixed with sundried tomatoes, bruschetta, aubergine, melon, and rocket, or

basically everything you might expect from a great antipasto platter. All the elements of this platter were of top quality, and while the portion was generous, it certainly whet the appetite for more. The main course of seafood pasta was large, just like we had expected. The combination of octopus and mussels added a pleasant flavour to the tomato-based dish. The leftover sauce was sopped up with some crusty bread. And with barely enough room for dessert the tiramisu arrived at our table. The pallet was left with a pleasant reminder of the Mediterranean. ■

Location La Bottega, Vene 4. Tallinn Old Town H2.

urants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Wood Fired Flavours

w in popularity in Estonia’s capital.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

llinn’s Map

Tallinn has a few wood fired ovens. One of them is accessible with trams 2 and 4, near the last stop. The alder wood that is used to heat the oven gives the pizzas their own unique flavour, which wafts into the surrounding neighbourhood. Capitano, the favourite pizza of Attimo’s clients, is topped with tomato sauce, cheese, ham, mushrooms, aubergine, olives and garlic, for about 5,95. Other 30cm

pizzas start from 3,55, including the Margherita. At Attimo, toppings are fitting and never excessive. The crust is crunchy and thin. You can also have wine or beer with your pizza. At lunch, pizzas are 4,50 a piece, pasta 3,60, and other foods 4-4,50. It’s also possible to buy imported pastas, wines, olive oil and balsamic vinegar to take home. ■

Location Attimo, Peterburi tee 49, Tallinn.

Vapiano – Take it easy! TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Vapiano offers quality dishes using fresh ingredients at a great price and great speed. For the first time visitor, the card you are handed upon entering the restaurant may be a little surprising. The card is for your purchases while inside, and then the total is paid upon leaving. Pizza, fresh pasta, and salads make up most of Vapiano’s menu. You can watch your meal prepared right in front of you,

but for items like pizza you are given a buzzer that will sound when your pizza is ready. The first floor of the Vapiano at the Solaris shopping centre has become a popular meeting place for many people. Vapiano’s second location is found at the Foorum Centre. ■

Location Vapiano, Foorum Keskus, Hobujaama 10. Tallinn B2. Vapiano, Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst. 9 Tallinn B2.

Appetite for history TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Quality Takeaway Pizza New Italian creations at Pizzapoisid TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Pizzapoisid is a small chain of takeaway pizza restaurants that have two locations in Tallinn and one in Tabasalu. The Baltic Guide went to taste pizzas at their Pärnu mnt location in Tondi, Tallinn. It’s a fast food restaurant of sorts where clients take their pizza along with them, a trend that is becoming more and more popular in Estonia. You can enjoy your pizza in the restaurant at a small table or weather permitting, on the outside terrace as well.

The pizzas on the menu come in three different sizes: 20, 28, and 40cm in diameter. They also offer a selection of calzones, pizza pockets, and pizza bikinis, a small stuffed baguette. The pockets and the bikinis are the restaurant’s own creation. The prices of the pizzas are mid-range for Tallinn takeaway pizzas: a regular sized pizza costs between 5.50-6.90. In August they started selling gluten-free pizzas as well. The base is made from rice flour. They told us that this is the only gluten-free pizza available in Estonia. Referred to as the tervisepizza or healthy pizza, the toppings are put on the base after it has been cooked, this way you don’t loose any of the vitamins in the cooking process. All of the toppings are prepared fresh in house every morning. No pre-made, pre-cut items are used.

We decided to try two different pizzas instead of a traditional one: the vegetarian tervisepizza and the ham pizza pocket. The vegetarian pizza truly deserved its title: raw red onion, zucchini and peppers gave the pizza freshness. The rice flour pizza base was crunchy. The pizza pocket reminded us of a pizza kebab, because you ate it wrapped in paper. The pocket was stuffed with ham, cheese, salad, salted cucumbers, red onions, and a sauce. The portion was large and quite filling. The sauce added juiciness. Pizzas can be ordered by phone or on the Internet. Take bus number 23 or trams 3 or 4 to get to the Tondi location. ■

Located just outside of the Old Town walls in what is known as Hirvepark, Gusto restaurant sits in a beautifully restored house. In summer, diners can enjoy the beautiful green space outside, but now as the weather gets a little cooler, the light yet cosy interior with a warming wood stove will make you want to settle in with good food, good wine, and good company. The menu at Gusto is inspired by the simplicity of quality ingredients used in Italian cooking. Owner Anu Laan has spent some time in Italy. “I just

love the uncomplicatedness of Italian cooking,” she says reminiscing about her time down south. The cotoletta alla Milanese, or the pork schnitzel was perfectly crunchy and served with a small salad. Unlike in Italian cuisine, main courses at Gusto come served with sides. They also serve an excellent selection of Italian cheeses that you can mix and match, and an antipasto platter for two for starters. Buon appetito! ■

Location Restoran Gusto, Toompuiestee 8, Tallinn B1.

Location Pizzapoisid, Tondi 32, Tallinn.

Gusto has perhaps one of the most beautiful locations in Tallinn.

nightlife

I DE E ™™ NNOOV VE EMMB BE ER R 2 20 01 13 3 T THHE E B BAAL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

discover Tallinn's to e m ti 's it , ts h g si all the must-see about the u o y lls te la h a M When you've seen sa ative Maarja-Lii n n n lli Ta . e if tl h ig n l unges in town! colourfu lo d n a s, b lu c s, b u p best gigs,

Leave the cold weather blues at home; it’s time to party! November is finally here with its cold autumn breeze and long dark nights. It’s the perfect time to discover Tallinn’s cosiest pubs and wildest clubs for an unforgettable night. Photo: Protest

■ VABANK Vabank is an exclusive nightclub located in a former bank house for people who love the glamorous lifestyle and high-class parties (pay attention to the dress code). There are many performers (air acrobats and dancers) you can’t keep your eyes off of and DJ’s who bring out your best dance moves. Vabank is a club for people who are looking for something a little bit different, yet with a classy atmosphere.

Photo: Hell Hunt

Hell Hunt has a great selection of local and international beers.

The motto at Protest is "live and let live".

Harju 13, Tallinn J1.

■ HELL H HUNT

Protest is another cosy bar in Tallinn with the motto “live and let live“. It has a cool open-minded atmosphere with friendly and helpful staff. Protest is usually packed with a younger crowd but that doesn’t mean you’re not welcome at any age. It’s a great bar to chill at before heading to town for clubbing or just relax with a refreshing drink and good company.

Hell Hunt claims to first Estonian be the firs Pub. I don’t don know if it’s true or o not, but in one thin thing I’m sure of - it’s definitely de a pub with a character. Hell Hunt is re really popular among young loca locals, so you can expect it to be pretty pre crowded d d att weekends. k d It has h a great selection of beer, including its own brews, cool interior and is one of the “must visit“ pubs in Tallinn.

Mere puiestee 6a, Tallinn A2.

Lai 8, Tallinn G1.

Pikk 39, Tallinn G2. ■

■ PROTEST

Estonian Music Põhja-Tallinn has been in the Estonian music scene since 2007 when their first single “Probleem“ came out. Their song “Meil on aega veel“ got second place at the Estonian Song Contest in 2013. All their songs are in Estonian and their music falls somewhere between hip-hop and rock. Estonian rap sounds really interesting with a beautiful female vocalist Kerli Kivilaan too!

www.põhja-tallinn.ee Come to Vabank for glamorous parties.

■ KOHT This is pub is definitely onee of Tallinn’s hidden n nightlife treasures.. It’s a really small and d cozy place with a great at beer selection. It might be a little bit hard d to spot but look for the sign on the door: “ Ko ht is open when Koht isn’t closed“. It even h has a fi fireplace, often l ft surrounded by talented musicians jamming. There’s no better place to be on a cold November night.

Photo: Vabank

PÕHJA-TALLINN

nightlife

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ NNOOVVEEMMBBEERR 22001133

Photo: Amigo

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Gay Sports

Club 69

Clayhills

G-punkt

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sakala 24, Tallinn B2. Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn.

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn.

Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad Murphy’s

Amigo is open every day of the week.

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Nimeta Baar

HOTTEST CLUBS IN TALLINN ■ TAPPER

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Cigar Lounges

The Shamrock Pub

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sigari Maja

Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Karja Kelder

CatHouse

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live Music

Photo: Amigo

New pals will be treated like old friends at Amigo.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

■ WABADUS

Photo: Wabadus

Sadama 6, Tallinn A3.

Bibabo

Kolmas Draakon

■ AMIGO

Arena 3

Estonian

Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Rock on at Tapper!

Nightclubs The Bank Club 777

Kochi Ait Tavern

The atmosphere at Wabadus comes to life in the evenings.

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Pärnu maantee 158, Tallinn.

Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn J1. ■

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

If you’re bored of mainstream club hits then Tapper is a great alternative, specialising mostly in rock and metal music. The club can hold up to 600 people, it is a powerful black-box type of venue and connects a cosy bar feeling with live music. It’s situated a little bit outside of the old town but true rock lovers and those looking for a different club experience won’t be disappointed.

Wabadus is a little bit of a fancier place located near to the best pubs and clubs in the old town. During the daytime it’s the perfect café for business lunches or just passing the time. In the evening the whole atmosphere changes to a more relaxed one and DJs will be spinning to guarantee that you have a blast. It’s also known for its delicious meals.

Gelsomino Karaoke

Chicago 1933

Photo: Tapper

There aren’t many nightclubs in Tallinn that aren’t open every day of the week and Amigo is certainly no exception. Amigo, as a name suggests, is a club where new pals will be treated like old friends. It’s more popular among an older crowd and DJs will be playing the hottest hits from present and past. Great rock and blues bands also perform from time to time, so forget your age and show them what you got!

Karaoke

Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3. Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1. Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.

Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Café Amigo

Panoraam

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Chicago 1933

Parlament

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Clazz

Tapper

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.

NYC Piano Bar

Teater

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Rock Café

Vabank

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Von Krahl

Venus

Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

shop

The colourful children's section at Apollo bookstore.

Something for everyone Located just a quick bus ride from the city centre, Kristiine is the one stop shop for families. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

In this two level shopping centre you will find clothing, accessories, eyeglasses, children’s clothing and toys, and much more. There is no shortage of shoes either –find top name shops like Högl, Geox, Crocs, Ecco or browse through shops like ABC King for an even bigger selection of brand names. In addition to the shoes, fashion, and accessories at Kristiine you will also find electronics stores, like the authorised Apple

reseller IM Arvutid, as well as the Apollo bookstore, which has a good selection of books in Estonian, Russian, and English. You won’t go hungry either with over a dozen restaurants, cafés, and snack bars to choose from. ■

IM Arvutid is an authorised Apple reseller.

Location Kristiine Shopping Centre (Kristiine Keskus), Endla 45, Tallinn. A free bus runs (almost every half hour) between the A and D terminals at the port and Kristiine and Rocca al Mare Shopping Centres.

Restaurants: ■ Kohvik Brezza A stylish sushi bar offering Japanese delicacies! ■ BabyBack Ribs & BBQ Baby Back serves all your American favourites – ribs, burgers, and more! ■ Kristiine Bistro Serving breakfast as well as salads, soups, main courses and mouthwatering desserts. ■ SushiRong One of Estonia’s only sushi train restaurants. ■ DaVinci Pasta & Pizza An Italian family restaurant serving pizza, pasta, and house made gelato. ■ Chopsticks Asian dishes served fast and fresh for dine-in or takeaway. ■ Kohvik Gnomo A bistro restaurant with a menu changing daily. ■ Prima Pizza & Pasta A casual Italian restaurant.

Kristiine has a great selection of home ware shops and cosmetics.

Kohvik Brezza

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Shopping in Tallinn ■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

With two floors of shops you will certainly find what you're looking for.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 5. A2 This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands. Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2 Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

■ A bit further out

Books about Estonia make a great souvenir.

A glimpse at what’s inside: Shoes: ■ ABC King ■ Bata ■ Crocs ■ Ecco ■ Geox Clarks ■ Salamander ■ Högl ■ Step Top ■ Shu ■ Walking ■ Rieker ■ Chester

■ Sabo ■ NS King ■ TrendExpress ■ Sketchers ■ Avanti For Children: ■ XS Mänguasjad ■ Hello Kitty ■ Mothercare ■ Chicco ■ Next ■ Taibula ■ Terranova

■ Mon Amie ■ 4Party Women’s & Men’s Fashion: ■ Naomi ■ Vero Moda

■ Denim Dream ■ Orsay ■ Jack&Jones ■ New Yorker ■ Colin’s

■ Marilyn

■ DShop by Desigual

■ Etam

■ Gowri

■ Seppälä

■ Petroff ■ Baltman

■ Mosaic ■ Marks & Spencer

■ S’Nob ■ Mohito

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Norrison Levi’s Tally Weijl Via Coocon Mötivi Gerry Weber Timberland Hansmark Ivo Nikkolo Monton Zara La Femme Vaide

■ Sangar ■ NJU: In Jeans ■ Cropptown ■ Mustang ■ Reserved ■ Next ■ Icon ■ Botega ■ Valerio Maestri ■ Camel Active

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city. Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3. Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

shopping

A stylish winter party Christmas and New Year’s Eve parties are just around the corner and now is the time to look for formal wear. This season lace and bead detailing are all the rage. Shops also offer metallic fabrics, which can be paired with an array of the season's trends.

Men’s styles take a turn towards the classic, influenced mainly by 1950s fashion. Three-piece suits, ticket pockets and shoes are the beginning of this winter’s best.

WOMEN

■ Red dress – Karen Miller, 185€ ■ Black shoes – Guess, 160€ ■ Gold bag – Karen Millen, 135€ ■ Earrings – Marks and Spencer, 18,95€ This feminine red dress follows the contours of the body. The patent leather shoes shine, if anyone even notices them over the beautiful dress.

■ Black metallic dress – Karen Millen, 325€ € ■ Black shoes – Karen Millen, 185€ ■ Bag – Marks and Spencer, 41,25€ ■ Bracelet – Mosaic The trendy metallic beads on the bottoms are the young party girl’s top pick. The embroidered dered handbag and high-heeled shoes are the crowowning rock and roll style.

Unique party clothes Continental Moda imports mainly formal dresses and outfits from the US, from which you will definitely find one of a kind clothing for your Christmas parties. SaloCenter is better known

for its wedding clothes, but you can definitely find formal wear for men and women. SaloCenter, Narva mnt. 9 B3. Continental Moda, Tartu mnt 18 B3.

We put together the best outfits from Tallinn shops. These dresses, suits, and accessories are guaranteed to make you shine this winter! ■

MEN

■ Grey suit – Mosaic, 129€ + 59,95€ ■ Shirt and tie – Mosaic, 25,95€ + 12,95€ ■ Watch with black strap ■ Black shoes – Marks and Spencer, 46,60€ This stylish grey winter suit is slightly shiny and sits well. You can play around with the colours of the shirt and tie, and don’t forget about the handkerchief! The watch with the leather strap is more traditional, as are the shoes.

■ Trouser Trousers rs and vest – Baltman, 89€ + 69€ ■ Shirt an and tie – Baltman, 49,49€ ■ Brown shoes – Marks and Spencer, 69,90€ ■ Bowtie – Marks and Spencer, 5,90€ You don't have to wear a suit to be dressed formally ; you can replace the jacket with a vest. Try wearing a vest along with a bow tie. TEXT SUSANNE TUKIA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, BALTIKA GROUP, KAREN MILLEN, MARKS AND SPENCER

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

The spirits of the Three Musketeers are alive in Le Chateau. Athos, Porthos, and Aramis have had Christmas menus named after them.

A Christmas Party in Musketeer Style TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The menus are offered to a minimum of six people, but the restaurant can hold up to 120-130 people. There are even smaller private rooms for a more intimate dinner. The three Christmas menus include appetisers, two-four main courses, dessert, coffee or tea, and water. The price per person is 30-39. The food is served on platters, so every person can take as much or as little as they want. The salted red salmon is the perfect colour for Christmas and is served with horseradish sauce. The Christmas ham is served with a spicy jam and the Waldorf salad comes with orange chicken. Garlicky and honey marinated cucumbers can’t go without being mentioned either. The selection of Christmas sausages are served with house made clove flavoured pumpkin salad and the salmon is stuffed with nuts and wrapped in puff pastry, served with a dill sauce. The smoky sauerkraut is an original side dish. The most expensive dinner includes two desserts, whereas

Christmas cake

Christmas sausages served with pumpkin salad

Pork loin with lingonberries and cranberries

Waldorf salad

Paté with smoked cheese

the others only included one. A spicy Christmas cake is served with a white chocolate sauce and the apple blueberry pudding is hidden under a lemon cloud. The candle-lit cellar of Le Chateau brings warmth and comfort to those dark winter nights. Enjoying a good meal with great company will certainly make the long winter nights pass quickly. ■

Location Le Chateau, Lai 19, Tallinn Old Town F2.

Apple blueberry pudding

Smoked sauerkraut

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Located in the Old Town the Talukõrts tavern has added barbecued pork to the menu.

Juicy pork with whiskey sauce TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO MIKKO VIRTA

Barbecue means long cooking time, with the infusion of grilled and smoky flavours to the meat. Slow cooking ensures juicy and soft meat. The taste is smoky and the addition of a little barbecue sauce is a match made in heaven. At Talukõrts the barbecued pork is served with a side of grilled vegetables and a whis-

key sauce. And in the tradition of the restaurant, a free shot of vodka is served on the side. This large serving of pork (12) is the ideal meal for advent. It’s a lot of food but not too much and the restaurant is centrally located in the Old Town. ■

Location Talukõrts , Viru 18 , Tallinn Old Town H3 .

The favourites remain the same TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

MULLED WINE TEST

2013 The Baltic Guide

Last year The Baltic Guide tasted 13 mulled wines, of which five were Estonian products. This year we chose all six mulled wines or glögg from SuperAlko. We did not select any new brands. The more traditional glögg producers like Blossa and Lingel&Piispanen release a special edition mulled wine every year. We bought three litre bottles, of which two were of 10 strength – Bocca Glögg (13.99) and Kardinal Hõõgvein (10.99).

Name & Volume Producer

Last year the most points and positive feedback went to Loimu 2012. Second place went to Blossa Original, which was this year’s top pick. All of our tasters would buy all of the mulled wines we tasted, but the winner was definitely their first choice. Everyone liked it, but it was not the top pick for everyone. Mulled wine is a great drink for winter. In Estonia, lemon peel is often added to the drink, and many stores sell the spice mix to make it yourself at home.

The winner, Blossa, was described as dark, with strong aromas of cloves, with a pleasing smell of spices. Blossa also produces a mulled wine with cognac, but this was too strong for our tasters, but the taste was still good. The blueberryflavoured glögg was interesting and strong. These two were the strongest in alcohol content out of the mulled wines tasted. The blueberry mulled wine was spicy. The Vana Tallinn mulled wine was strong in alcohol. ■

WINNER Blossa Vinglögg Original, 0,75 l

Loimu Glögg 2012 0,75 l

Blossa Starkvinglögg with Cognac, 0,50 l

Lumoava Blueberry Glögg 0,75 l

Vana Tallinn Glögi 0,70 l

Bocca Glögg 0,50 l

Altia Sweden

Lignell&Piispanen

Altia Sweden

Lignell &Piispanen

Liviko

Drinks&Food Vertriebs, Saksa

Alc%

Price€

5,75

9,99

6,80

7,50

3,99

5,60

Points

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

beauty

19 In the news New Shopping Centre Opens in Tallinn The newly renovated post office building has now been turned into a shopping centre. The centre houses the supermarket Rimi, H&M, Rademar, NS King, New Yorker and more!

‘Free Range’ Nominated by Estonians for Best Foreign Language Film Oscar

Eve has ten years experience with a applying permanent makeup.

Estonia has submitted Veiko Õunpuu’s “Free Range/Ballad on Approving of the World” as their submission for the 2014 Academy Awards in the category for Best Foreign Language Film. The film is about a young writer who is unsure of his role in society after being fired and finding out his girlfriend is pregnant. The 86th Academy Awards will take place on 2 March, 2014.

Forever BEAUTIFUL Permanent makeup for your eyes and lips at Vana Viru Ilusalong. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Vana Viru Ilusalong in Tallinn’s Old Town is popular among locals and tourists alike. On any given day the cosy salon is bustling with ladies there for various beauty procedures. Clients are tended to immediately by the chatty and friendly staff, and walk-ins are welcome. Eve Mahlapuu, owner of Vana Viru Ilusalong has ten years experience with applying permanent makeup. “It’s becoming more and more popular with both older and younger ladies,” she explains. For those that have never considered permanent makeup, or don’t know what it is, here’s how it works. When you come in for an appointment, Eve will first talk to you about how the procedure will go. The area is then cleaned and a thin layer of anaesthetic cream is applied to help with the pain. The PMC permanent make up machine is like a tattoo gun, where a small needle injects colour into the skin. Permanent makeup does not go as far into the skin as a tattoo, but can still last from two to five years. After the procedure a lymph fluid is applied to area along with the leftover colour. Don’t worry; you may bleed a little bit. This will eventually scab and heal naturally. You will have to use special creams for the aftercare as this will help keep the scab soft, the colour even, and infection away. It’s important to let Eve know of any skin problems before the treatment. For example, if you

know that you have herpes then you must ask your doctor for medication like Zovirax and take it for a week beforehand. The application of permanent makeup on the lips could cause a flare up and take the colour away from the skin. Permanent makeup can be applied to the eyebrows, eyes as permanent eyeliner, and to the contour of the lips. For older people with eyesight problems, permanent make up is ideal as you don’t need to fumble around trying to put eye and lip liner on. Permanent makeup on your eyebrows can help enhance light coloured hair, or if your hair doesn’t grow back from over plucking, this procedure can help enhance what hair is there. It’s also great for people that wear contact lenses, or those that have allergies to eye makeup. It’s also great for those that are into sports, as it won’t wear off with sweat or run if it gets wet. The cost of the procedure includes two visits. The first one for the first application, and the second is to make any corrections. The second visit, which usually happens about a month later, is highly recommended to ensure the colour stays put longer. Without the correction, colour may start to fade after only one year. ■

Popular Front Museum Opens

Permanent makeup can be applied to the eyebrows, eyes as permanent eyeliner, and to the contour of the lips.

Georgian-Estonian Film ‘Tangerines’ in Cinemas now

Location Vana Viru Ilusalong Vana-Viru 6, Tallinn Old Town H3.

A small museum for the Popular Front has been opened in Tallinn. The Popular Front had a role in the independence movement of the late 1980s. The exhibit can be found in the glass gallery under Freedom Square. On display are materials tied to the founding of the Popular Front and its activities. The organisation closed in 1993 after having completed all of its objectives.

Permanent makeup does not go as far into the skin as a tattoo, but can still last from two to five years.

The film 'Tangerines' premiered in Tbilisi, Georgia back in October and hit cinemas in Estonia on October 31. The film tells the story of the Abkhazian war of 1992. Two wounded soldiers from opposing sides find refuge in an Estonian village in Abkhazia that has been abandoned except for two men who take care of the tangerine orchard.

relaxation

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Members of the Estonian Spa Association

The right spa makes for the right holiday Estonian spas have been around since Russian Tsarist time. In 1813 the Kadrioru Wittenhof summer manor house spa was opened in Tallinn. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS EESTI SPA LIIT

At the beginning of the 19th century spas opened in Pärnu, Haapsalu, Kuressaare, and NarvaJõesuu as well. Today there are around 30 spas in Estonia, of which 19 are part of the Estonian Spa Association. The word spa conveys many meanings these days, so it’s wise to familiarise yourself with what each one offers before planning your vacation. The Spa Association divides their members into three categories: 1) medical spas, 2) spa and wellness spas, and 3) medical and wellness spas together. Medical spas are licensed to provide outpatient medical care. Travelling with your family? Many spas encourage you to bring your children. They oftenhave areas like playrooms or playgrounds and slides, and organise

Some useful words treatment

hoolitsus

massage

massaaž

heat therapy

soojusravi

beauty services

iluteenused

medical consultation

arsti vastuvõtt

tests

uuringud

activities for children. Some spas even have procedures and treatments especially for children. There are sports and other active activities offered at all of the spas, and some offer even more. Be sure to look into this before you book. Depending on the clients, entertainment programmes vary. Though if you are interested in an exercise only programme, then an evening exploring local pub culture is not recommended. ■

Relax in the salt chamber.

Therapeutic mud has brought visitors to Estonia since the 1800s.

■ Aqva Hotel & Spa, Parkali 4, Rakvere. ■ Arensburg Boutique Hotel & Spa, Lossi tn 15, Kuressaare. ■ Fra Mare Thalasso SPA, Ranna tee 2, Haapsalu. ■ Georg Ots SPA Hotel, Tori 2, Kuressaare. ■ Grand Rose Spa Hotel, Tallinna 15, Kuressaare. ■ Johan Spa Hotel, Kauba tn 13, Kuressaare. ■ Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark, Aia 18, Tallinn. ■ Kubija Hotel Nature Spa, Männiku 43a, Võru. ■ Health Centre & Hotel Wasa, Eha tn 2, Pärnu. ■ Estonia Rehabilitation Centre, A.H. Tammsaare pst. 4a, Pärnu. ■ Laine Spa Hotel, Sadama 9/11, Haapsalu. ■ Laulasmaa Spa, Puhkekodu tee 4, Laulasmaa, Harjumaa. ■ Meresuu Spa & Hotel, Aia 48 a, Narva-Jõesuu. ■ Meriton Conference & Spa Hotel, Paldiski maantee 4, Tallinn. ■ Peetrimõisa Villa Spa Hotel, Pirni tn 4, Viljandi. ■ Pirita TOP SPA Hotel, Regati puiestee 1, Tallinn. ■ Pühajärve Spa & Holiday Resort, Pühajärve. ■ Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA, Kohtla. ■ SPA Hotel Meri, Pargi tn 16, Kuressaar. ■ SPA Hotel Rüütli, Pargi tn 12, Kuressaar. ■ SPA Hotel Saaremaa Valss, Kastani tn 20, Kuressaare. ■ Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel, Sadama tn 11A, Tallinn. ■ Tervise Medical Spa, Seedri 6, Pärnu. ■ Tervise Paradiis, Side 14, Pärnu. ■ Toila Spa Hotel, Ranna 12, Toila. ■ Vihula Manor Country Club & Spa, Vihula. ■ Viiking Spa Hotel, Sadama 15, Pärnu. ■ Viimsi SPA, Randvere tee 11, Viimsi. ■ Värska Spa Hotel, Väike-Rõsna küla, Värska.

A doctor's consultation.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

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Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill

WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia saleslady's weekend radio hours in Lau Village Shop logging bee on Sepa farm every weekend St. Catherine's Day on November 24 horse and carriage rides, a village shop from the 1930s, Estonian national food at the inn

â&#x20AC;˘ Largest whisky selection in Estonia â&#x20AC;˘ Live music & karaoke â&#x20AC;˘ Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) MĂźndi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

www.madmurphys.ee

Open daily at 10-17 Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. VabaĂľhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

Tartu Book your spot at the Tartu Marathon early!

Marathon package for individual participants 15.-17.02.2014 : long distance price is valid until 13.12.2013. ■ 2 nights in hotel Tartu or Dorpat ■ breakfasts in the hotel ■ bus transfers to the marathon start and back to Tartu ■ registration fee including snacks and drinks during the race ■ your registration documents and badges will be delivered to the hotel ■ entrance to night club Atlanits (excl. Sunday) Ask for extra nights 126 EUR/person in dbl room in Riga or Tallinn 156 EUR/person in single room The registration fee of the Marathon Bookings: e-turist@e-turist.ee; is not refundable. Extra night: twin: 67 EUR, sgl: 55 EUR www.e-turist.ee

Winter fun – indoors & out! ■ Museums New this year at the University of Tartu History Museum is the treasury. y It’s located on the third hird floor of the museum where ere many original artefacts are on display. For example ple visitors can famil-iarise themselves with Albrecht Durer’s incrediblee graphic works, Juri uri Lotman’s talisman or Aleksander Puskin’s death mask. Each artefact has its own story. Visit one of Tartu’s museums, or all of them with the university museums joint ticket. This ticket allows entrance to the History Museum, Art Museum, Botanical Gardens, and the Tartu Observatory. www.ut.ee

■ A night at the theatre With the dark, cold nights approaching, what better way to spend a chilly evening than in the warmth of the theatre. This November and December the Tartu Vanemuise Theatre has a great programme with everything from opera, concerts, comedies, and children’s plays. For the full programme visit: www.vanemuine.ee

■ Tartu Adventure Park If you’re looking for something active to do with the whole family, then why not visit an adventure park? In addition to the adventure park located in Otepää, Tartu’s adventure park is the newest and is located right in Tartu. Thrill seekers can take part in 50 dif-

ferent activities including a 300-metre zip line, at different heights and different degrees of difficulty. There is even a separate area for children with 15 different activities and two zip lines. d During the winter months visitors can D eenjoy snow tubing, and hockey and ice skating rinks. ic Narva mnt 126B, Tartu N www.tartuseikluspark.ee w

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Winter fun in Tartu Enjoy shopping, live music, and plenty of other activities indoors and out in this beautiful Estonian city. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS:TARTU COUNTY TOURISM FND PHOTO STOCK

Tartu’s history as a town dates back to the 13th century, but became known in 1632 with the establishment of the university. Since then, Tartu has become

a student’s city, where 20,000 of the 100,000 inhabitants are students. Some of Tartu’s most well known landmarks include the Emajõgi River that flows through the centre of town, Toome Hill, the university’s main building with its distin-

■ Live Music Rest your feet after a day of shopping at one of Tartu’s live music venues. In addition to the Tartu Jazz Club that

opened at the end of last year, visitors can now enjoy music at Volga7 and at the Feel Good Café.

■ Tartu Jazz Club

■ Feel Good Café

■ Volga7

Ülikooli 20, Tartu http://tartujazzclub.ee

Rüütli 12, Tartu www.feelgood.ee

Küütri 1, Tartu http://volga7.ee

■ Shopping in Tartu

■ Aura Centre (Waterpark) What better way to spend a cold winter’s day than inside at the swimming pool! At the Aura Centre visitors can enjoy a swimming pool, waterpark with waterslides and waterfalls, and a fitness centre. Aura Centre just added a health club that includes a sanarium, Jacuzzis, different saunas, as well as their first communal sauna. Children will be entertained as well; the sauna is well lit and plays music. Special offer: Visit Aura Centre and AHHAA Science Centre on the same day and get 20% off on the second ticket. Discount is valid for all AHHAA tickets (except planetarium and group tickets) and Aura Centre tickets when presented on the day. www.aurakeskus.ee

Christmas time is a great time for shopping, not just for gifts and souvenirs, but for yourself too. The large shopping centres in Tartu like Lõunakeskus, Kaubamaja, and Tasku offer many holiday discounts and other sales during this time. And don’t worry about keeping the children entertained, at Lõunakeskus you will find an indoor skating rink, children’s playroom, and the Ahhaa 4-D cinema.

Tartu is also filled with many great handicraft shops, where you can buy gifts directly from their artists. If you are interested in local design, be sure to check out the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries Design House.

Estonian Design Days From 14-16 November the Tartu Kaubamaja will be organising the Estonian Design Days together with the Tartu Disainimaja. Jewellery and other accessories, along with fashion design, lighting, ceramics, and other pieces of art will be on sale. The market is open Thursday and Friday 11-19, and Saturday 11-17. www.tartukaubamaja.ee

Christmas in Tartu 2013

2014 Events (January – August)

■ 2.12.2013–06.01.2014 Tartu Christmas City, joululinn.tartu.ee 1.12 16.00 Lighting of the first advent candle in Town Hall Square 14.12 11.00 Christmas Fair in the city centre 14.12 13.00 5th Tartu Winter Dance Party in Town Hall Square 21.12 19.00 Fire and light game in Town Hall Square 24.12 12.00 Declaration of Christmas peace in Town Hall Square ■ 6.-7.12 Christmas Fair 2013, www.tartunaitused.ee ■ 17.-24.12 Jõulumaa at Tartu Kaubamaja: Christmas Fair, www.tartukaubamaja.ee ■ 21.12 18.00 Vanemuise

(Tartu Cultural Calendar: kultuuriaken.tartu.ee ) ■ 16.02 43rd Tartu Marathon, www.tartumaraton.ee ■ 24.-27.04 Nordic Student Choir Festival, nsss2014.ut.ee ■ 28.04.-4.05 Tartu Spring Days, www.studentdays.ee ■ 7.-10.05 Literature Festival “Prima Vista”, kirjandusfestival. tartu.ee ■ 11.05 SEB 32nd Tartu Running Marathon, www.tartumaraton.ee ■ 16.-18.05 Archaic Arts Festival “RegiÖÖ”, www.tartu.ee/regioo ■ 19.-24.05 Tartu Indiefest, www.indiefest.eu

Symphony Orchestra Advent Concert (Tartu Jaani Church) ■ 23.12 19.00 Estonian National Male Choir “Light and Gold” (Tartu Jaani Church) ■ 26.12 19.00 Holiday Music: Eri Klas and Friends ■ 26.12 19.00 Händel’s ”Messiah”, Voces Musicales, Corelli Consort (Tartu Jaani Church) ■ 29.12 19.00 Swing`n`Joy Orchestra End of Year Concert ■ 30.12 19.00 VANEMUISE New Year’s Eve Ball www.vanemuine.ee ■ 31.12 12.00 Eesti Kontsert and Hennessy New Year’s Eve Concert Concerts: www.concerts.ee/tartu

■ 1.06 SEB 33rd Tartu Bicycle Rally, www.tartumaraton.ee ■ 4.-8.06 Wind Band Festival “Mürtsub pill”, www.potartu.ee ■ 7.06 Tartu Song Festival ■ 23.06 Victory Midsummer’s Eve celebration, www.erm.ee ■ 29.06 Tartu City Day ■ 10.-15.07 Festival “Glasperlenspiel”, www.erpmusic.com ■ 11.-13.07 Tartu Hanseatic Days, www.hansapaevad.ee ■ 4.-10.08 Love Film Festival tARTuFF, tartuff.ee ■ 15.-16.08 Emajõe Festival ■ 24.08 SEB 8th Tartu In-line Skating Marathon, www.tartumaraton.ee

guished columns, and of course the “kissing students” in the Town Hall Square fountain. Plan your trip by contacting the Tartu Visitor Centre in the Town Hall (info@ visittartu.com, +372 744 2111) www.visittartu.com

■ Where to shop ■ Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. This is southern Estonia’s largest shopping centre. Visitors can enjoy an indoor skating rink open all year round, a children’s playroom, and the AHHAA 4D cinema. The 15-seater AHHAA 4D cinema brings modern special effects and 3D animation together. Seven different films will be shown, each one lasting about five minutes. You must be at least 110cm tall. A free bus takes you to Lõunakeskus from the city centre (Kaubamaja or the central bus station). The first bus leaves at 10.57 from the bus station and 11.00 from Kaubamaja. www.lounakeskus.com

■ Tasku Keskus Turu 2, Tartu. Tasku Keskus is located in Tartu’s city centre. The shopping centre houses a modern cinema, and a viewing platform was opened this summer and will stay open in the winter as well. www.tasku.ee

■ Tartu Kaubamaja Riia 1, Tartu Also located in Tartu’s city centre, many of the shops in this shopping centre are part of the tax-free shopping scheme. Most large shopping centres will stay open on public holidays. www.tartukaubamaja.ee

For something a little different: In addition to the large shopping centres in Tartu, shoppers can find many cute handicraft shops.

■ Antoniuse Courtyard Lutsu 5, Tartu Antonius Courtyard is located in the heart of the Old Town, in St. John’s cultural quarter. Here visitors will find the works of handicraft masters, where old traditions meet new style.

■ Disainimaja (Design House) Kalevi 13, 15, 17, Tartu Located within the Tartu Centre for Creative Industries, the Disainimaja sells locally designed accessories, jewellery, ceramics, home textiles, art, handicrafts and clothing. Visit the café next door, Kohvik Spargel, where the dining room houses temporary exhibits. www.lmk.ee

■ Upcoming Christmas Markets St. Martin’s Day Fair (Mardilaat) 7-10 November Saku Suurhall, Tallinn Get your Christmas shopping done early at the St. Martin’s Fair. Visitors can enjoy workshops, purchase handicrafts, indulge in traditional culinary delights, and listen to folk music. Photo: IWCT

november events

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Christmas Bazaar 24 November, 11.00-16.00 Radisson Blu Hotel, Rävala pst 3, Tallinn For the 8th year in a row, the International Women’s Club of Tallinn will organise the Christmas Bazaar. 26 Embassies will be taking part this year, and the IWCT will be selling their own handmade cards, handicrafts, and baked goods. The ever-popular Tombola (raffle) and the Silent Auction will both be taking place as well.

PÖFF 15 November – 1 December Tallinn, Various Locations

The Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival returns for the 17th year in a row. It’s the biggest film festival in North Eastern Europe. The main programme features the International competition programme EurAsia and Tridens Baltic feature film competition. Side program-

Photo: E.M. Concert Group

mes include fiction and documentary features from the previous two years, a retrospective of a filmmaker, genre or studio, and focus on a specific country. The festival continues to grow in popularity. Last year PÖFF attracted nearly 70,000 cinema visits and held over 700 screenings. Tickets available from Piletilevi. ■ Photo: PÖFF

Town Hall Square Christmas Market

Photo: ????

22 November – 8 January Get into the holiday spirit at the annual Christmas market. Browse the beautiful handicrafts and pottery of Estonian craftsmen and artists; enjoy traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut. Sip mulled wine and admire the enormous tree in the centre of the square. Children will get a chance to meet Father Christmas, and visit the animals at the small petting zoo.

José Cura

14 November Nokia Concert Hall, Tallinn

Not a fan of opera? Don’t worry. This unique musical event is a great opportunity to hear top performers sing “love messages” written by some of the greatest composers of all time. Listen to both classical and modern musical styles while José Cura performs together with a magnificent young soprano, Anita Rachvelishvili. The opera show ”The Bell Canto Diamonds” Puccini –Beatles – Verdi- Mozart and Others ”Love Songs” will be accompanied by the Philharmonic Orchestra and conducted by Mario De Rose Tickets start at 39 and are available from Piletilevi. ■

Tallinn by night See a different side of the Old Town with Tallinn Traveller Tours. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

On a cold October night I met Heli (a guide with TTT) for the Tallinn Ghost Tour. If you’ve seen the major sights of the Old Town during the day, here is your chance to explore the narrow streets at night.

Heli, our guide.

The Ghost Tour lasts one and a half to two hours (depending on the temperature outside). Your guide will tell you curious tales and legends about some of the houses and statues you might not notice on during the day. For example, do you know that Tallinn had its very own

mummy; or have you seen the statue peering from the roof of the Russian Embassy over Pikk Street? Heli has been giving tours of Tallinn since 2009. The Ghost Tour is interesting because it gives a glimpse of places in the Old Town that you wouldn’t

normally look at. “I don’t like to list off too many dates. You won’t remember the dates, but you will remember interesting stories,” Heli told me while on our tour. To book your tour with TTT visit: www.traveller.ee.Tallinn Traveller Tours also does day

Explore Tallinn in a different light at night.

trips outside of the city. If you have a bit of time to spare and have already seen the sights of Tallinn, why not take a day trip to picturesque Lahemaa National Park, or head to Paldiski to find Soviet relics and admire stunning coastal landscapes? You won’t be disappointed! ■

history

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

years: two photos

In the 1990s the building housed the Kultuur ja Elu newspaper and restaurant. Today the Foorum Shopping Centre, opened in 2007, occupies the space.

1993–2013 TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS HUIK/FILMIARHIIV 1993 AND ANDREI CHERTKOV

Free Market Economy

he history of cooperative stores in Estonia dates back to 1902 when the first co-op was established. During the Soviet period they were referred to by their abbreviation ETKVL. In 1991 they were renamed the Estonian Central Consumer Cooperative (Eesti Tarbijateühistute Keskühistus) or ETK for short. The ETKVL was a “state within a state” and its headquarters were located at Narva mnt 7. Today, the ETK deals primarily with business outside of Tallinn. Today the building has a glass façade and three towers, and is now the Triumph Plaza commercial and office building. ■

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Tartu Airport Flying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise. Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, showcases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

museum

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

■ Museums

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

TARTU

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

■ Museums

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum) Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Almost all known Estonian clothing designers and companies are taking part in a great fashion project. TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN PHOTOS MAIKEN STAAK, TANEL VEENRE, JANNE LUIGLA

The exhibition KAAMOS opened at the Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design on 28.09 and will be open until 24.11. As a whole, KAAMOS is a more extensive project, including a 232 page book on the current situation of Estonian fashion that will come out 1.10 (Eesti mood tänaFashion Now: Estonia). A list of described designers and business in the book can be found on the Internet at www.kaamos.ee. The Museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11:00-18:00. ■

Location KAAMOS, 28 9-24. 11. Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design, Lai 17, Tallinn. Old Town F1.

Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

KAAMOS – Estonian fashion

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary exhibitions Boris Vildé and the French Resistance (Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle)

Letters to Sala (the French Children of the Holocaust Foundation)

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, 10142 Tallinn www.okupatsioon.ee muuseum@okupatsioon.ee Tel +372 66 80 250 Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00

Tallinn City Museum branch museums: includes the following

www.linnamuuseum.ee

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum) Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

■ Art Museums & Galleries 4

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Triin Kärblane

Old Observatory (Tähetorn)

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Aldo Järvsoo

Britt Samoson

Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18

1 CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003. The museum and its café are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road 3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00 Café open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street, 5 CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street 6 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street 7 MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children Writers’ museums with authentic interiors: 8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street 9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas

transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT

1 2

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket from the driver for 1.60€. Please have exact change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala Ristiku Sõle Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala Looga Mustjõe

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

Taksopark Koskla

J. Poska

KADRIORG Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. TallinnOLD Viru Ülikool TOWN KADRIORG 6 Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Tedre

2, 4

Majaka põik

VäikePaala

Ülemiste

Õismäe PR

Nurmenuku

Linnu tee

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

TallinnVäike

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

1 3 5

Kaja

Szolnok

MUSTAMÄE

Tondi

3, 4

3 4

MUSTAMÄE

Mustamäe

driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

2 4

Löwenruh Aiandi

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on

Airport

KRISTIINE

Karikakra

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE VäikeÕismäe

ÜLEMISTE Pae

Vineeri

Tihase

Sinilille

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

1 3

Marja

Sinilille

Car Hire Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Nisu

Trams

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN

ROCCA AL MARE

PORT

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee

■ Taxis Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

■ BY BUS: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2, bus no. 17, no. 23

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

■ BY TRAIN: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

■ BY AIR::

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

Emergency Numbers: PU H E L I N N UPhone MERO T : P O L IPOLICE I S I 1 1 0 110, , P E LEMERGENCY A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 , AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Parking Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially during working hours. Public parking on city streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour, depending on the area. Blue parking signs will tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some areas, including the Old Town require you

to be for parking at night. Parking passes can by purchased from machines or kiosks. Remember to leave your parking clock (or a written note) indicating the time when you first parked.

■ BY SEA: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Lennart Meri eri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) nnujaam) Tartu mnt 101, 01, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport. n-airport. ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.

around Estonia

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Don’t forget, there’s a lot to see outside of Tallinn too! Take a look at some of the unique destinations outside of Estonia’s capital. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV, EAS

Photo: Graham Mitchell

Photo: EAS

Castles The main attraction of Saaremaa’s capital Kuressaare (218km Southwest of Tallinn) is the Episcopal Castle. This medieval castle with a moat houses the stage of the summer opera festival and many more events throughout the warmer months. The castle is in excellent condition, and the inside houses a museum that is well worth a visit. The city of Kuressaare celebrates its 450th anniversary this year. Haapsalu (100km southwest of Tallinn) is like something straight out of a fairy-tale: old wooden houses built on narrow streets, overlooking a sparkling sea. Be sure to visit the majestic Haapsalu Episcopal Castle in the centre of town. The White Lady Days are held in honour of Estonia’s most famous legend. Under the full moon in August in Haapsalu, through the window of the Episcopal Chapel the white lady makes her appearance. According to legend, the maiden appears to show the immortality of love. Rakvere Castle is one of Rakvere’s (100km east of Tallinn) main attractions. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre,

Visit the Old Believers' museum in Kolkja.

the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as an exhibit on the history of weapons. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber. Narva (211km east of Tallinn) is the easternmost point of Estonia and EU. The Narva River divides Russia and Estonia, and from the Hermann Fortress you can look across the river to Russia and the castle on the other side. Narva was once the “Baroque Pearl of the Baltic Sea,” but during World War II, the city was almost completely destroyed. Visit Narva for an interesting glimpse at Russian

Hermann Castle in Narva

Kihnu Island

Estonia, Soviet architecture, and one of the best preserved castles in Estonia.

Seto Culture South-eastern Estonia is home to the Seto people. Their land today is split between the borders of the neighbouring countries. The Seto people have an Orthodox Christian tradition. Their customs and beliefs are different from the mainstream and one of their recognisable landmarks are the multiple small prayer houses or tsässonad. Värska (270km southeast of Tallinn) is the centre of Seto culture. Here you can find a museum and the Tsäimaja offering trad-

itional food. Seto Kingdom Day takes place on the first Saturday of August in Värska. On that day a king is chosen, as well as best musicians and best food and beverage purveyors.

Old Believers & Peipsi Lake In the 17th century, the Old Believers came to Estonia to avoid Russian persecution. Their religion is an old form of Russian Orthodoxy and today there about 15,000 Old Believers living in towns around Lake Peipsi. Visit the Old Believer’s museum in Kolkja Village (213km southeast of Tallinn) to learn more of their fascinating history and traditions, and be sure to have a meal at the fish and onion restaurant to have a taste of the onions that this area is known for.

Tallinn Islands Narva Rakvere Kärdla Paide

Kõpu HIIUMAA

Mustvee

Haapsalu

The fast-paced modern world has yet to reach the islands of Estonia. On the smaller islands, including Hiiumaa (155km west of Tallinn), there is the feeling of having gone back 100 years in time. Estonia’s

largest island, Saaremaa, is quiet and peaceful compared to Tallinn. Unique nature and preserved folk culture is the specialty of the islands, but don’t worry, modern amenities can be found as well. Kihnu Island’s culture is a UNESCO world heritage site. Elderly ladies driving motorcycles with sidecars, while wearing traditional folk clothing is a regular sight on Kihnu (180km southwest of Tallinn). Hiiumaa’s main attraction is the Kõpu lighthouse, built at the beginning of the 16th century. This is one of the world’s oldest working lighthouses. Kihnu, as well as some of the other islands have lighthouses that can be visited by tourists. Koguva, on the island of Muhu is the best place to see these traditional farmhouses. This village has many thatched roof buildings, including a museum. The many windmills in Angla village on Saaremaa, is the best place to see these traditional structures, as there are not many left in other places. ■

Lake Peipsi

MUHU

Photo: Toomas Tuul

Koguva

Pärnu

Angla

SAAREMAA

Tartu

Viljandi

Kolkja

Kuressaare

Värska KIHNU

Valga

Võru

Setomaa Traditional Seto folk costumes

useful information

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 3 Photo: Margus Johanson

www.visitestonia.com

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies

Tartu

24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic. Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2013/2014 School Holidays Christmas break 21 December, 2013 5 January, 2014 Spring break 15-23 March, 2014 Summer break 6 June - 31 August, 2014

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Central Post Offices Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

Event and Concert Tickets

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina

Phone calls ■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their most central locations at: Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Free Wifi ■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted. Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Linda Line terminal SEAPLANE HARBOUR

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