The Baltic Guide ENG November 2015 by The Baltic Guide

N O V E M B E R 2 0 15

Markets & Shopping Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants What’s on at KUMU

Autumn Festivities Nightlife: Hot Bars for Cold Nights

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The ﬁrst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest beer. Come and taste it.

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

A Brief History of Mulled Wine

andering the streets of Tallinn’s Old Town in November, you’re bound to come across the warm, spiced smell of mulled wine or glögg wafting from one of the city’s many cafés. There are many different recipes for this festive drink, but it’s usually made with red wine and a combination of spices and dried fruit. Every country seems to have their version of the drink. In addition to mulled wine, the English also enjoy mulled cider during the winter months. Spices used are cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and mace. The Germans and Austrians enjoy Glühwein during the Christmas holidays, adding cinnamon, cloves, star anise, citrus peel, and sometimes vanilla to the red wine. Blueberry wine or cherry wine sometimes replaces the red wine, and sometimes even rum is added.

In Estonia we drink glögi. It’s also made with red wine, sugar and spices such as cinnamon, cardamon, ginger, cloves, and bitter orange. And for those who want a bit of a kick, it's perfectly acceptable to add a shot of vodka or akvavit. We’ve got the glögi thing down to an art. Wander through any grocery and you find it already mixed, all you have to do is heat it up, and add raisins or blanched almonds if you like. While November may be dark and rainy, there is no cosier month to be in Estonia. Put on your warmest sweater and head to one of the upcoming Christmas markets to get in the holiday spirit. Enjoy a concert. And don’t forget to try some traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut in Town Hall Square.

Contents 3 Editorial

Happy travels!

restaurants

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

4-5 Restaurants: Le Chateau Restaurant News Estonia's 50 Best Restaurants Esto Spice

November Highlights 01 CHRISTMAS JAZZ The annual Christmas jazz festival Jõulujazz will take place 18 November to 16 December in Tallinn. n. The festival opens Kelley Evans (CAN) on 28 November. On 4 December, listen to the sound of Ana Moura (POR) at the Nordea Concert Hall.

02 CHRISTMAS MARKET OPENS

shopping

The annual Old Town Christmas market opens 20 November. The Town Hall Square will fill with handicrafts and the sounds and smells of the holidays. Father Christmas will be there daily from 12.00-18.00. The market is open until 8 January.

6 Beauty 8–9 Shopping 10 Nightlife 12–13 Holiday Guide e 14 Fun for kids 15 Events 16-17 Sightseeing 19 Getting Around 20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information ormation

Estonia will take on Georgia at the A. Le Coq Arena in Tallinn on 11 November. The Estonians lost 2-1 against the Georgians in their last match in Tbilisi.

04 HEAVY METAL LEGENDS IN TALLINN The Brazilian heavy metal legend Sepultura will play Tallinn’s Tapper club 11 November. Tickets available from Piletilevi.

05 WINTER BATTLE Watch a historical reenactment of the Battle of Narva between Peter the Great and Karl XII on 14 November at Hermann Fortress.

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Geili Kruusmaa (Beatrice MASS MODELNET) Style: Ženja Fokin Make-up: Kristi Petolai Clothes: Niiv, Gant

NOVEMBER 2015

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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03 ESTONIA VS. GEORGIA

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Flavours of India Spice restaurant takes yyou on a jjourneyy through g the rich flavours of southern India.

indian TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The small cellar restaurant Spice

feels more like a post-Soviet bar that is only missing a dance floor in the middle of the room. The decor is nothing special, but that doesn’t matter because the most important thing is Spice’s wonderful Indian food. The secret, the owner Sabu Olbri is from Kerala and he’s always at the restaurant. Kerala’s food is known for its heat, even by Indian standards, and the food at Spice is no exception. But even in the spiciest dishes, flavours like ginger, garlic, coconut and coriander are still clear and not masked by lots of chillies. When we visited, we tried some of the spiciest dishes on the menu. To start, the chicken pakora tasted just like in India, remarked my dining companion who had just returned from there. For the main course, the pork vin-

daloo and southern rn Indian style prawns had a spicyy twist. The food was served erved together with rice and salad. d. The flavours persisted until the very last mouthful. Beer was the perfect accompaniment to the food. ood. It’s worth mentioning that a 500mL 00mL Saku cost 2.50, which for the he Old Town is very reasonable. Also surprising was that the pricess in the restaurant were pretty reasonable asonable for the Old Town in general. eral. The menu also offered some more European dishes, though the reason to go to Spice is for the Indian ian food. ■

Location Spice, Mündi 4, Tallinn nn Old Town h2 --------------------Appetisers €2–4.50 Mains €6–13 Desserts € €2 2. .5 50 0– –3 3 -----------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Kerala’s food is known for its heat, even by Indian standards, and the food at Spice is no exception.

Festive Favourites Enjoying a great meal in the company of a large group is the way it’s meant to be.

french TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Le Chateau, one of Tallinn’s few

French restaurants is offering a wonderful Christmas menu in its candle-lit cellar dining room. For groups of six or more, book-

ings must be made two days in advance and the menu is 40 per person. There are eight cold appetisers, warm dishes include blood sausage and pork fillets, as well as tilapia. Don’t worry, vegetarians aren’t forgotten either. The festive evening is filled with the flavours, smells and colours of Christmas. The tasty salmon ter-

rine with caviar sauce is luxurious and the baked cheese with herbed pepper sauce tickles the taste buds. The smoked cheese that goes with the main course, adds wonderful flavour to the soft pork fillet.. The Christmas spirit can also be found in the fish that is paired with apples and different spices. Dessert comes in the shape of a Christmas pudding with a crispy almond crust, a wonderful end to filling meal. ■

Location Le Chateau Lai 19, Tallinn Old Town f2 --------------------Appetisers €4.90–12.50 Mains €12.50–22.50 Desserts €3–6 ---------------------

Save room for dessert, the Christmas pudding with a crispy almond crust makes for the perfect ending.

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

The Great Christmas Feast certainly won't leave you hungry.

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restaurants

Vana Torokse Farm café offers delicious daily specials.

RESTAURANT NEWS The long running Madisson cafe in the Radisson Blu Sky Hotel is closed for business. Estonia’s largest coffee shop chain will take over the location in November, offering some of the same dishes once offered at Madisson. Estonia’s largest street food and coffee seller Statoil will change its name over the next year and starting in 2017 will take on the brand name Circle K of the Couche-Tard family. Statoil opened in Tallinn’s train station or Balti jaam as a new coffee shop where you can buy pastries, hot dogs, and other savoury snacks, as well as coffee and drinks. KwakInn, the Russian chain of Belgian bars opened its latest location in Tallinn. In St. Petersburg there are four locations. The selection of Belgian beers is enormous. Leffe is on draught and there are over one hundred bottled beers available. The menu offers Belgian favourites like mussels and tarte flambé. Another cafe added itself to the many already located in the Kalamaja and Telliskivi area. VanaTorokse farm is a Harjumaa family company that sells smoked goods. Their shop in Kalamaja also has a cafe that offers daily lunch specials at reasonable prices.

Telliskivi’s newest cafe is the Renard Coffee Shop. It shares a

space with the Speed Shop, a custom motorcycle workshop and store. Located between Narva mnt and the World Trade Centre is the new Lime Buffet. The breakfast buffet is open 8.00-11.00 and lunch prices are calculated according to weight. The restaurant is open weekdays from 8.00-18.00. Lactose and gluten free meals are available. The popular meat restaurant Talleke ja Pullike is now open in Viimsi. Located close to the Lavendel Spa, a spa known for its smoke sauna, in November, they will open a pool with a bar. ■

Location Reval Café Rävala pst 3, Tallinn b2 Statoil Balti Jaam Toompuiestee 37, Tallinn a1 KwakInn Vene 6, Tallinn Old Town h2 VanaTorokse Soo 26, Tallinn (opposite Tops) Renard Coffee Shop / Speed Shop Telliskivi 62, Tallinn a1 Lime Buffet Narva mnt 11D, Tallinn a3 Talleke ja Pullike & Lavendel Spa Hotel Sõpruse tee 9, Viimsi

Statoil's newest location at Tallinn's Balti jaam train station.

Some people visit NOA just for the stunning view.

The Best of the Best Every year, 50 of Estonia’s top restaurants are chosen. Here’s a look at some that made the cut. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS LAURI LAAN

Since the start of the restaurant competition in 2008, restaurants

have been selected and rated every year for a list of the 50 best. The ratings have been criticised for the comparison between different styles of restaurants being unfair in that it compares apples with oranges. But whichever way you look at it, the list no doubt gives a good overview and an excellent gastronomical guide to the country. Starting in Tallinn, Tchaikovsky has long held the number one spot in the city, that was until last year when NOA Chef’s Side stole the show. Tchaikovsky focuses on classic Russian cuisine with a French influence. It’s said that people come from far away to try their borscht with duck meat. NOA Chef’s Side offers a five or seven course tasting menu prepared by head chef Tõnis Siigur. While the food is fantastic, many people visit NOA simply for the magnificent view of the city from across the bay. To move further down the list, places like Salt in Kadriorg,

Kolm Sibulat in Pelgulinn, and Leib

Resto & Aeg in Tallinn’s Old Town are worth checking out for their more casual dining scene. Salt, a tiny bistro changes its menu weekly and focuses on mediterranean inspired dishes. Kolm Sibulat has a little bit of everything, but all prepared in house including some fantastic ramen and curry. For a taste of something more Estonian, Leib is the place to go. Everything is locally sourced and the menu plays with many traditional flavours. Moving outside of the city, let’s not forget some of those places a little off the beaten track. Places like Põhjaka, Tammuri Farm, and OKO are worth the drive out of town for a unique dining experience. Põhjaka was started by three chefs who decided to move to the country and restore an old manor house. This cosy house is now a favourite place to stop en route between Tallinn and Tartu for hearty home cooked meal. Tammuri Farm is about as far away as you can get from Tallinn in Southern Estonia and is a one man restaurant. Chef owner

Põhjaka is worth a stop on your way between Tallinn and Tartu.

Erki Saar takes groups by booking only, preparing creative meals and offering wine to match. OKO, owned by the same guys as NOA offer a beautiful seaside dining experience that is better in winter, when there are more chefs than service staff at work. For more information and a complete list of the 50 best restaurants of Estonia, visit: www. flavoursofestonia.com ■

Location Tchaikovsky Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town h2 NOA Ranna tee 3, Tallinn Salt Vase 14, Tallinn b3 Kolm Sibulat Telliskivi 2, Tallinn Leib Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3 Põhjaka Mäeküla, Paide vald, Järvamaa Tammuri Farm Mäha village, Otepää, Valgamaa OKO Punase laterna 1, Kaberneeme

beauty

Try a classic massage.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

A foot massage is an excellent break in the middle of the day.

Relax and Unwind Take the wight off your feet and enjoy a massage at Tool ja Tee. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tucked away on the fourth floor of

the busy central Tallinn shopping centre Viru Keskus is a relaxing little massage studio where you can take a moment from your day to unwind. The idea for the centre came from owner Kaja Heinsalu’s

time in Asia. “It’s very common to stop for a short massage while shopping”, she explains. “And I thought, why not try it in Tallinn”. Tool ja Tee is no ordinary place for a quick massage. Here, all of the masseurs are blind. Elve has worked as a masseuse for six years. Her technique is strong,

and she asks me many times throughout the massage if it’s too much. “It’s important that massage is strong, but not painful”, she explains. My visist starts with a foot massage. First, the feet soak for ten minutes in a magnesium bath. Like the name Tool ja Tee

(Chair & Tea) suggests, you are offered a cup of tea while you enjoy your massage. The foot massage last 30 minutes in total, with Elve touching on all the necessary spots. Classic and sports massage are also offered, and if you’re not too comfortable taking off your

clothes, Too ja Tee also offer a chair massage. ■

Location Tool Ja Tee Viru Keskus 4th floor Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2

Practice Makes Perfect Save money without compromising quality with an appointment at the Estonian Beauty School Teaching Salon. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

It’s Thursday afternoon and the

EVOS puts out a catalogue of new hairstyles and colours for every season.

A New Kind of Salon in Town EVOS Parrucchieri opens its first location in Tallinn. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

At the end of September, EVOS Parrucchieri opened its first

location in Tallinn. EVOS is offers a unique concept and is not your ordinary beauty salon. Hairdressers and stylists are trained by the salon's very own academy L’accademia Corani

& Partners. And just like with top fashion, EVOS puts out a catalogue of new hairstyles and colours for every season. ■

Location L’accademia Corani & Partners & EVOS Parrucchieri Jõe 2b, Tallinn a3

assignment is to do makeup for your partner in 15 minutes, and go! The clock is on and students are calmly working on their assignment. The teaching salon at the port location of the Estonian Beauty School is the first of its kind in Tallinn. “It offers a unique learning environment that is both comfortable and cosy. It’s not your classic learning environment”, explains Aimar Karu, director of the school. The school has 195 students in total, studying everything from hairdressing to cosmetics to massage. Clients can call or make an appointment online on their website http://www.iluteeninduskool. ee/oppesalong. The most popular package among clients is the mani, pedi, facial package for 42. Students are supervised at all times during the appointments, guiding them and being there should they have any questions. “We provide a hands-on learning experience, that often offers better service than a regular salon, because the students

This beauty school is Tallinn's best-kept beauty secret.

are being taught and supervised by some of the best teachers in their fields”, explain Aimar. We tried the soothing facial, complete with neck massage. Make sure you have some time in your calendar because the entire appointment lasts one hour and 45 minutes. After your face is cleaned and exfoliated, your face and neck are massaged with a rich serum. This is the best part of course, because you don’t actually

realise how tense your face can be. Afterwards, a moisturising mask is applied and then finally moisturising cream to finish off. ■

Location Eesti Iluteeninduse Erakool Lootsi 10, Tallinn 2nd floor (Kochi Aidad) a3 Kai5/Sadama 6, Tallinn (Sadamarket) a2 Open Monday – Friday 10.00-16.00, Saturdays by appointment only.

Eesti Rahvusvahelise Iluteeninduse ErakoolWorld Hairdressers’ Organization - OMC School

TREATMENTS BY STUDENTS Package 1* includes a facial, manicure, and polish...................................................... Package 2* includes a pedicure, facial, and polish..... Package 3* includes a manicure, pedicure, nail cutting, and facial................................ Classical Swedish massage 30 mins (professional)................................................ Colour, cut, and blow dry (MATRIX, L’Oreal) (short hair).....................

€25 €32 €42 €25 €25 Find us from the Kochi Aidad (Superalko) building or the SadamarketSadamarketista!

*Students of cosmetics work M-F 10-16 • Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10, Tallinn, II floor ( D-terminal), tel + 372 6 801 665 • Sadamarket, Kai 5, Sadama 6, Tallinn ( A-terminal), GSM +372 552 5338 • info@kursused.ee • www.kursused.ee

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

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Read articles online: ESTONIAN FIREFIGHTING MUSEUM Raua street 2, Tallinn 10124 Ph: (+372) 53 028 404 e-mail: muuseum@rescue.ee www.tuletorjemuuseum.ee

Open Monday ‒ Thursday 9:00 ‒ 17:00 Friday 9:00 ‒ 15:30

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St. Patrick’Ɛ ůŽĐĂƟŽŶƐ͗ in Old Town: Suur-Karja 8 in City: Narva mnt 5 on the beach: Merivälja tee 5

shop

2015 GIFT Guide

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Take the winter chill away with a sip of onee of these:

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

We know you’re looking for something a little different, and what better gift than something from your travels. Here’s a look at some small items from some of Estonia’s talented designers.

Liviko Kase Viin (Birch Vodka) €19.99 700ml

Vana Tallinn 500ml €9.40 – add a shot to your coffee

Vana Tallinn Glögi 750ml €4.40 – mulled wine with a kick

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping cen-tre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8.. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

Photo: Liviko

Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Sleep tight through the night with Ööl Ööloom ”Face Blanket” €30, € Nu Nordik

Estonian Candle Studio

Unique q and trendy Streetwear by Kirju, Necklace, €20, Tali

This is not ot your average candle store. ore. The Estoni-

Keep warm and colourful with Elina Müürsepp Hats, €28, Nu Nordik

Be seen in the night with O Oreflector Reflective Badge, €5.50, Nü Nordik

an Candlee Studio of course sells candles, but you can also order candles and partake take in candle making classes. Prices start at 7. 7. The shop is open Monday nday to Friday from 10.00-18.00 00-18.00 and by appointment app ntment on weekends. Check out their kends website www.kyynlaswebsi tuudio.ee for more infortuudio mation. ■ matio

Location Locat n Madala 4, Tallinn.

For something a little different... Keiu Koppel Computer Chip Brooch, Brass/Silver €56, Les Petites

Organic freeze-dried freeze-d dried fruit makes makes an excellent addition ion to muesli, or eat them on their own wn as a snack. Assorted ted flavours including: ng: cowberry, raspberry, erry, strawberry, blueberry berry and mixed berry. y. 80g €6.90 Hää Eesti sti Asi

3D Printer Necklace, Mihkel Kaarma, €46, Les Petites

You never know what you'll find at POP. Y

Kalev chocolate 300g €5.50 Hää Eesti Asi – Estonia’s Esto longest-running confectionary comp company makes a wide range of choco chocolates and sweets, like this bar with almonds. milk chocolate c

POP Flea Market Boutique Have you stumbled across this great shopping find yet?

Where to buy TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

TALI Voorimehe 4, Tallinn Old Town h1 Kotzebue 33, Tallinn a1 Les Petites Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn Nu Nordik Vabaduse Väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Hää Eesti Asi Aia 1 / Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town j1 Liviko Store Lootsi 8 Tallinn a3

This is no ordinary flea market. Th

Th There are many brand names items for sale, especially for it women. Children’s and men’s w cclothes are also plentiful. And if you’re interested in vinyl, there are records available for all tastes. Soviet era and other homeware are on sale, as well as electronics.

If you’re interested in selling, you can rent a space: 20 per week or 65 for the month. POP Kirbubutiik is located near Solaris Shopping Centre, heading towards Stockmann, close to the Estonian Foreign Ministry. ■

Location POP Kirbubutiik, Lauteri 1, Tallinn b2

nightlife

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Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar

TEXT STUART GARLICK

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sigari Maja

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Club Baila

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Photo: Baila

Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Karaoke

Karja Kelder

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Baila stays open into the early hours.

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Self Baar Ancho

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town i2

At a more considered, sedate pace is Self, a quieter, but equally-good, bar around the corner on VäikeKarja street, close to the traditional tourist traps of Nimeta and Shooters, but still far enough away that you don’t have to deal with recurring images of staggering drunk people. Self, as the name implies, is a place where you can contemplate and achieve a state of inner calm. The wine is good-quality, the bar staff know their spirits,

Müürivahe is one of those Old Town streets which, thanks to Tallinn’s tourist centre being a zoneless mish-mash of chintzy amber and wool shops, modish design shops and strip clubs, you might normally give a miss. However, you would be wrong to do so, because in skipping Müürivahe, you’d never get to Ancho, one of the Old Town’s overlooked gems. The bar is not trying to offer luxury - it wants to give a straightup taste of Mexico, with shirts and pictures from Mexican football on the walls, competing for space with Mexican wrestling memorabilia. It’s a place to take your buddies and enjoy a light, hoppy Mexican beer, while forgetting about the fancy people who aren’t having as much fun as you. Ancho is a frequent stop-off for Tallinn’s large American community, and often hosts the monthly meetings of an informal local chili and spice club, attracted by the wealth of beer snacks and sizzling burritos, which you can enjoy with your beers and your pals.

X-baar

Protest

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

ou might have thought a trip to Tallinn would mean quiet, calm, pinewood and northernEuropean detachment, but it ain’t necessarily so. We’ve found three Hispanic-themed bars within a hundred metres of each other that will help you to spice up your life while showing the international nature of Estonia’s capital.

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

La Casa del Habano

Põrgu

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

FOR COLD NIGHTS

Cubanita Live Cafe

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

HOT BARS

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Self is Tallinn's only gin bar.

Tapper

and the whole ambiance is one of pressure-free enjoyment. As this is one of the Old Town’s bestkept secrets, you will find this is one of the few places in this part of town where you can talk to your friends without shouting to be heard. Originally marketed as a tapas bar, Self now says ”gin bar” on the window, and it’s pretty appropriate, because of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, you’ll want to walk into this one.

Ancho is a place to take your buddies and enjoy a light, hoppy Mexican beer.

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

Baila Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

After all that calm reflection, you’re ready for a party. There are other nightclubs in Tallinn. There are places that will gladly take your money time after time, as you down deceptively-expensive shots to get over the awful music being played. However, very few Old-Town clubs make you leave with a smile on your face as big as that with which you arrived. Baila does this. Baila is not trying to be anything it is not. It’s a club wedged into the narrow Sauna street, close to places we have praised before, like Paar Veini and Frank, but this is a Latin party, with sweat, salsa and a sunny disposition coming as standard. Though there is not much room inside, there are seating areas, waitress-

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Express Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

es who come to tables with your drinks - which are not overpriced – and somehow everyone finds enough space on the dancefloor to be satisfied. What puts Baila above anywhere else open as late (its doors do not lock until early in the morning) is the simple, but often overlooked, pleasure of not being patronised or looked-down upon. There is no sniffiness, everyone has a good time, and for one night, we are all equal in the finest sweatbox in town. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

WWW.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â&#x201E;˘ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

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Photo: Rene Riisalu

Photo: Eesti Draamateater

The annual Christmas Bazaar celebrates its tenth year.

Christmas

allinn is a great city to visit at any time of the year, but in December the thick, fluffy snow turns it into a winter wonderland that can be enjoyed by all ages. Allow us to take you on a trip through the Estonian capital, examining some of the most enjoyable things you can do with your Christmas break. If you retain a hankering for the sounds of the seventies, there's really no music that speaks of the decade more than legendary disco vocal group Boney M. The band's original vocalist Maizie Williams has embarked on a European tour, including one night in Estonia, at the Nordea Concert Hall. Whether you were alive to hear ”Rivers of Babylon”, ”Daddy Cool” or ”Rasputin” when they were first hits, or you're someone who enjoys a retro party, Boney M have the tunes to make your evening light up. Williams and the band come to Tallinn on 20 December. If you get your thrills from staring at the stars, or your children are always asking you about space, you might want to consider ”UFO: Circus From Another Planet”. The extraterrestrial show was

nominated for Circus of the Year 2015, and gives you the chance to experience zero-gravity wonders from across the universe. In case any of your family is curious what might be found on Mars, this will surely pique the excitement. Taking place at Tondiraba Ice Arena on 19 December, this acrobatic tour de force comes recommended. If theatre is more your thing, you need to take a look at the Estonian Drama Theatre, which, on various dates up to and including 23 December, is hosting the latest comedy from Graham Linehan, the writer of hit TV sitcoms Father Ted and The IT Crowd. ”Five O'Clock is Tea Time” is a heist comedy of the highest order, with Linehan's strong characterisation coming to the fore again, as a planned bank robbery only becomes apparent over the course of the play.

Photo: Rahvusooper Estonia

TEXT STUART GARLICK & KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

”Five O'Clock is Tea Time” is a heist comedy of the highest order.

The Estonian Opera House and Ballet Theatre is a must at Christ-

mas time. There's something about sitting in the opulence of the Tsarist-era auditorium that makes you appreciate all the more what you are there to watch. There are also various packages to suit all people, in all price ranges. On 20 December, the Estonian National Opera Christmas Concert takes place, and you get the opportunity to hear some of Estonia's greatest voices

See Tchaikovsky's ”Nutcracker” at the Estonian National Ballet.

take on the wide-ranging festive songbook. Tickets are available, but will go quickly. If ballet is more your preference, Tchaikovsky's ”Nutcracker”, probably the most famous dance production of all time, has another run at the Ballet Theatre, beginning on 25 November and ending on 19 December. Everything about this classic is magical, but to experience it with dancers of the calibre of the Estonian National Ballet is to see a treat. Ben Stevenson is the director as Clara travels to the world of sweets, the Mouse King, toy soldiers, and the giant Christmas tree. Thinking about giant Christmas trees, there's one in the centre of Raekoja Plats, as every year – and this forms the focal point of Tallinn's captivating Christmas Market, where you can enjoy a mulled wine and warm your hands with handmade woollen mittens while taking in a variety of different live performances. People come from around the world to enjoy the wonders of a Tallinn Christmas, and it's really no wonder they would, when you see it for yourself. If you possibly can, you should support the Christmas Bazaar being held by the Inter-

y guide

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Visit Santa's reindeer at the Christmas Market in Town Hall Square.

The annual Christmas Market in Tallinn's Town Hall Square is a must-see during the holidays.

s in Tallinn national Women's Club of Tallinn. Not only can you get yourself ready for the festive season with a full compliment of presents, but you can do so safe in the knowledge that all your cash goes to a great cause - all the money raised goes to local women's and children's charities. It's the event's 10th anniversary, so help the volunteers make it the best year ever! the sale is at the Radisson Blu Sky Hotel, on 22 November from 11.00-16.00. The ever-popular

Tombola (raffle) and the Silent Auction will both take place as well. ■

Location Nordea Concert Hall Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2 Tondiraba Ice Arena Varraku 14, Tallinn Estonian National Opera Estonia pst 4, Tallinn b2 Radisson Blu Sky Hotel Rävala pst 3, Tallinn b2

No Christmas meal in Estonia is complete without blood sausage.

Hungry?

Try some traditional Estonian Christmas food at one of these Old Town restaurants: ■ MEKK Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town i2 ■ Liisu Juures Raekoja 13, Tallinn Old Town h1 ■ Kuldse Notsu Kõrts Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town h1

Modern Estonian Christmas food at MEKK.

fun for kids

Hang from a velcro spider's nest.

This year marks 150 years since writer Lewis Carroll published Alice in Wonderland.

Animals as Teachers A mole, stork, and snail lead the new exhibit at the Energy Discovery Centre on architecture and technology. itors can also try on a snail’s shell for size or build a stork’s nest. There is a story about every animal. The exhibit is open until 1 January, 2016. The Energ y Discovery Centre is located in the large yellow building close to Kultuurikatel and Linnahall. It’s just a short walk from the port. ■

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, TA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Spider the Architect and Aole the Engineer is the name of the new exhibit. The he name describes the new exhibit bit perfectly because people take ke many ideas from how animals live. ve. The exhibit xhibit explains why the honeycomb mb has six sides and how moles build ild tunnels that don’t shake, thee exhibition explains, for example, ple, using beehives in house construction. nstruction. The exhibition hibition hall is divided between the spider, e, stork, snail, bee, uman. a n d hu Visitors will receive tons ons of informaation aboutt their natural habitats, likee the bee-he hive or the mole tunnel. nel.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Learn about the intricacies of the honeycomb.

Location Energy Discovery Centre (Energia Avastuskeskus), Põhja pst 29, Tallinn a2.

A Tea Party with Alice This new exhibit reveals all about the world of Alice in Wonderland. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ESTONIAN CHILDREN’S LITERATURE CENTRE

This year marks 150 years since

writer Lewis Carroll published Alice in Wonderland. The Estonian Children’s Literature Centre talks about the famous author’s tea drinking customs. Curator Viive Noor called upon tens of illustrators to make illustrations for the exhibit. On display are the works of 72 artists from 19 different countries, like Italy, Belarus, Israel, and Hungary. The illustrations depict Alice along with the Mad Hatter, the Cheshire Cat, and the White

Rabbit. Smaller visitors can admire the illustrations with the help of a stool. In addition to the illustrations there are also beautiful tea sets and different editions of the famous book. In the display case there is Nancy Wiley’s original Alice doll. The Estonian Children’s Literature Centre is located in the Old Town, near the Fat Margaret tower. ■

Location Estonian Children’s Literature Centre (Eesti Lastekirjanduse Keskus), Pikk 73, Tallinn Old Town a2. The exhibit runs until 28 November. Free entry.

Judging by the laughter, the

spider web made from m velcro straps is a favourite for children 150 cm and nd smaller to hang from. m. Vis-

The illustrations depict Alice along with the Mad Hatter, the Cheshire Cat, and the White Rabbit.

events

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

The Living Universe 18 November – 31 March Tallinn TV Tower Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn

”Are we alone in the universe?” – is a question that we have been asking for a long time. The exhibition ”The Living Universe” seeks to answer this question in greater detail, examining the mechanics behind the origin of life, the conditions on other planets and the development of technologies for communicating with extraterrestrial life.

Race to the End of the World Until 3 April Seaplane Harbour Estonian Maritime Museum Vesilennuki tee 6, Tallinn

For those of you not familiar with the story, it goes like this: Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen and British Naval officer Robert Falcon Scott were on two separate expeditions in 1911 for the South Pole. Sadly however, one was not to return. The Race to the End of the Earth is a tale of adventure and hardship, triumph and sorrow, and of course courage and bravery. Learn about nature and wildlife in the Antarctic, climate and weather conditions, as well as modern day Antarctic exploration, which also shows what a camp today looks like. And did you know that Estonians have a long history of Antarctic exploration too? The exhibit finishes with a look at Estonians who have gone to Antarctica and their missions there.

Winter Battle 14 November Narva Fortress, Narva

The Northern War took place from from 1700-1704. The Swedish Army defeated the Russians in November 1700, under the command of 18 year old Charles XII. Peter the Great then conquered Narva in the second battle in 1704. Clouds of smoke shroud the bastions, cannons and gunshots can be heard and the war is on! The Battle of Narva is a reenactment of one of the great battles of the Northern War. Various historical military clubs will take part in the event.

Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

St. Martin’s Day Fair in Tallinn 5-8 November Saku Suurhall, Tallinn

The annual St. Martin’s Day Fair, known as the ”Song Festival of handicrafts” bring together craftsmen from all over Estonia to Tallinn. The event takes place at Saku Suurhall from 5-8 November. In addition to the sale there will also be workshops at which you can learn from the best. Enjoy traditional snacks and music. Entry is €5, €3 for seniors.

PÖFF – Tallinn Black Nights Film Festival

Photo: Jelena Rudi

13-29 November Various Locations

Tallinn Restaurant Week

Celebrate good food and good restaurants in Tallinn. This annual restaurant festival offers set menus at many of Tallinn’s top eateries. For more details and booking visit www.tallinnrestaurantweek.ee

Photo: PÖFF

1-7 November Various Locations

This annual festival has grown rapidly since its inception in 1997. PÖFF is a unique festival in that it combines a full length feature film festival with other subfestivals presenting animated, youth, and short films. Last year over 77,500 attended a total of 835 screenings of 662 films. For full programme details and more information visit http://2015.poff.ee/eng.

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

museum

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Museums & Galleries Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

KUMU's main collection covers Estonian art from the 18th century onwards, including works from the Soviet period (1940–1991).

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

What’s on at KUMU This Autumn

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS KUMU, ANDREI CHERTKOV

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

here's plenty to grab your attention if you pay a visit to Estonia's museum of modern art, KUMU, in the Kadriorg area of Tallinn. This autumn you have a choice of a series of ongoing exhibitions, or special displays that will only be there for a short time. Whatever you choose, you're sure to learn something you didn't expect to. We begin our look at KUMU with one of the best permanent exhibitions at the museum, ”Difficult Choices: Estonian Art from the End of the Second World War to Re-Independence.” In spite of

Temporary exhibitions

Forbidden Tunes Prague through the lens of the secret police MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

the slightly foreboding title, this is a display that will show you not only how Estonian artists compromised their vision during the Soviet occupation, but how they used subtle humour and in-jokes in order to find joy amid the difficulties being suffered. There are many poignant memories of a time Estonia seeks to remember in order to move on from. For a different take on the power of art, head to a new temporary exhibition, ”Saga. Iceland: Art & Narrative,” which focuses on narrative art – that is, art that tells a

Helgi Thorgils Fridjónsson (1953) Mirror of the North. 1989 Oil on canvas NEMO Gallery – Kunst in Nordeuropa, Eckernförde

story. It does so because of Iceland's rich storytelling tradition, going back many centuries, and currently spanning 1,000 new releases a year from Icelandic publishing houses, according to KUMU, in spite of the rocky island only having below 300,000 native speakers. Running from now until 20 March 2016, this promises to open your eyes to the culture of a nation much-loved for its individuality. For an edgier, stranger view of the world, you need to look at the exhibition of paintings by

Concordia Klar and Peeter Ulas,

two Estonian artists who are considered among the founders of a surrealist movement still going strong in the Baltic nation. You'll definitely experience all kinds of new emotions looking at the surprising early drawings of these unconventional artists. The exhibition runs until 31 December. ■

Location Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ NNOOVVEEM MBBEERR 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala

Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

From the driver

4 7 5

J. Poska

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Looga Mustjõe

Linnahall Port

KADRIORG

Lille

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Nisu

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Vineeri

Tihase Tedre

Karikakra

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

Airport

KRISTIINE

Sinilille

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

4 Ülemiste jaam

ÜLEMISTE JAAM

Marja

Sinilille

Majaka põik

ÜLEMISTE

VäikePae Paala

Löwenruh Linnu tee

Aiandi

Nurmenuku

TallinnVäike

2 Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Tondi

3, 4

Where to buy

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Kaja

Szolnok

■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

MBBEERR 22001155 TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ NNOOVVEEM

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,30 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,75 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ Bt air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

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0 10 Major 10 Estonian Towns

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Siili

P.Kerese

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26Ë&#x161;00'

27Ë&#x161;00'

ÂŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300

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