The Baltic Guide ENG April 2017

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA A green-fingered guide to garden centres and events Easter at the Open Air Museum Day trip – Hiking outside of the city

Jüri Pootsmann Estonia's top pop star on his next move Nightlife – Hip and happening Telliskivi

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A P R I L 2 0 17

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

Spring Fever

A

h, the smell of spring in the air! Longer days, more sunshine, and the anticipation of summer being just around the corner. Patios will be popping up and summer terraces opening all around town.

The real sign of Spring are the annual Tartu Student Days from 24-30 April. The university town of Tartu is taken over by students putting on entertaining cultural and sporting events, all mixed with a bit of humour and intellect. There are over 100 events taking place during this week-long festival, which culminates with Walpurgis Night (Volbriöö). It’s one of the most anticipated events of the among academic student organisations. The night kicks off with a greeting to the procession from the Mayor of Tartu and the Rector of the University of Tartu. Afterwards, each student organisation holds their

respective private events that are filled with performances, concerts, beer tables, singing, and more. At midnight, they open their doors to other student corporations and societies. In other words, it’s one big party lasting early into the morning.

This month we’ve also got a guide to state forest trails (RMK), where you can explore Estonia’s beautiful forests and lakes. There are a tonne of new exhibitions opening in Tallinn this month, as well as where to get the best views of the city. And last but not least, we will tell you where to celebrate Easter in Estonia and Estonian Easter traditions.

Contents 3 editorial

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

restaurants 4-5 restaurant news a vegetarian guide to Tallinn 6 Fredo, Ginger

April events Photo: Toomas Tuul

01 THE UNBELIEVABLE 5TH SEASON Experience an unforgettable sight at Soomaa National Park, where flooding rivers cover a space of 170 m2. It’s referred to as the fifth season, during which the best way to get around is with a canoe.

02 NATALIE IMBRUGLIA IN TALLINN Known for her 90s hit Torn, Natalie Imbruglia will take to the stage at Tallinn’s Rock Café on 24 April. The artist is on her world tour, which this time around will have her performing in smaller venues. This will be the Australian singer’s first time in Estonia.

03 SOUP TOWN PARTY

04 FESTIVAL OF COFFEE From 28-29 April, the first ever Tallinn Coffee Festival will take place. The smell of coffee beans will fill Tallinn’s Kultuurikatel. Many coffee roasters and coffee brands will be on-site. Festival visitors can vote for their favourite coffee.

8 beauty 10-11 day trip: RMK trails 12-13 interview: Jüri Pootsmann Apri Events 14-15 shopping 16-17 nightlife 18 museum: Estonian Agricultural Museum 19-22 visitor information and maps 23 Tallinn's best views

Your Comments

05 SWINGING TOWARDS WALPURGIS NIGHT Swing into spring at the Tallinn Swing Weekend, taking place from 28-30 April. Dance lessons and swing parties will be taking place all over town. International instructors and groups will be attending as well.

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Jüri Pootsmann Photo: Andrei Chertkov

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APRIL 2017

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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Photo: Press

You know it’s spring when Tartu’s Supilinn or Soup Town celebrates with its own festival, taking place 17-23 April. The week-long festival includes many cultural and sport events, as well as workshops.

this month

restau

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A vegetarian TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tokumaru Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn b2

As we approach the first taste of

seasonal, fresh local vegetables, let’s take a look at some of the places you can enjoy a vegetarian or vegan meal in the city. As always, we asked locals for their input.

Stop in for breakfast at RØST Bakery & Café.

V Vegan Restoran Rataskaevu 12, Tallinn Old Town h1

RESTAURANT NEWS Summer must be approaching

because there are lots of new places popping up all over town.

A few months ago the Asian takeaway Noodle Box (Telliskivi 24, Tallinn) opened up serving all vegan dishes including dumplings, stir-frys, and you guessed it, noodles. We haven’t had a chance to try it yet, but the reviews have been good so far.

A new restaurant opened in the Swissotel, call ‘The Quarter’ (Tornimäe 3, Tallinn b3). Located on the eighth floor, it offers a modern twist on traditional Estonian food. Choose from an a la carte or business lunch menu. In the evenings, ‘The Quarter’ offers an speciallypriced early dinner from 17:0019:30.

Talleke & Pullike restaurant in Viimsi has changed its name to Luu Steak & Seafood (Sõpruse tee 9, Viimsi). While the menu lies more

on the steak side, there are still a few seafood dishes to choose from,

Vegan Restoran or V as it’s known to locals is one of the most difficult restaurants to get a table at in Tallinn. Why? Because V shows us that not all vegetables need to be boring. With friendly service and a cosy atmosphere to boot, the menu lets you try vegan cuisine in a new light. Tip: The shared appetiser platter is on the small side, but lets you taste a few different things. Our favourite: Spicy tofu with quinoa.

FLAMM serves up nothing but the Alsatian dish, flammkuchen.

and if the quality lives up to the T & P brand, then we’re sure you’re in for a good meal.

Ala Turca (Köleri 1a, Tallinn a3)

offers Turkish wraps, kebabs and baklava. Located on the second floor of what once was a flower shop, this tiny restaurant is perfect for a quick lunch.

The Rotermanni area is expanding so rapidly that we have two new places to mention from there. Flamm (Rotermanni 2, Elevatori maja, Tallinn a2)

offers nothing but the classic Alsatian dish, flammkuchen, and of course some great wine as well. Though their flammkuchen is closer to a pizza, it’s still a great place for a quick drink and snack.

Right across from Flamm is the Scandinavian style RØST

Vegankohvik Inspiratsioon Lai 44, Tallinn Old Town f2

With a menu offering everything from wraps to burgers to creative apps like crunchy celeriac ‘nuggets’ with a tofu ‘egg’, you’re sure to find something inspiring to try.

On top of that they offer a selection of lunch specials throughout the week. But we were told no visit to this vegan café was complete without a piece of one of their cakes!

Green Bakery Maakri 19/21, Tallinn b2

Bakery & Café (Rotermanni 14, Tallinn a3). With great coffee, fresh-

ly baked sourdough, and some fantastic sandwiches, we can’t wait to stop in for lunch! ■

It was Daigo Takagi’s dream right from the beginning to open a Japanese restaurant in Tallinn, and thanks to the success of Momo (the place to get all things Japanese in town), this dream came true. The restaurant is located on the second floor of the Solaris shopping centre, just above the cinema. The minimalist décor suits the space with a large wall of windows offering a lovely view over the street.

Tokumaru offers a vegetarian sushi menu, many of which can be made vegan as well. At lunch, there is an equally large selection of vegetarian lunch specials.

Daily specials at Mamo.

Joined with a great little bookstore, this bakery is more of a café, but nevertheless, offers daily lunch specials and an a la carte menu. We really enjoyed the vegan hot dog and the spicy veggie burger.

Swissotel's new restaurant 'The Quarter', is located on the eighth floor.

Green Bakery has many great dishes to choose from.

aurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

n guide to Tallinn

Inspiratsioon offers great lunch specials.

Bookings are recommended at V.

Gotsu, Kyuho’s Kitchen Pärnu mnt 62a, Tallinn c1

Gotsu is the best place for Korean food in Tallinn, hands down. It’s a reasonable distance out of the Old Town, but worth the walk, or short tram ride. Try some of the house made ice tea, kimchi (you can also buy some to take along), and the bibimbap

Burger Box Kopli 4, Tallinn a1

This tiny takeaway sits right beside Põhjala Brewery’s Speakeasy bar. Order some food and head next door. When you order it ready, your name will be called out and it will be passed through the

wall. Veggie stuff to order: kimchi fries and their veggie burger.

Kuusk Hernesto Herne 6, Tallinn c2

We come here for the hot dogs, you know, the overflowing-withtoppings kind you get in Chicago.

Set up more as a takeaway than a restaurant, Kuusk Hernesto is also a small grocery store for all your veggie needs.

Mamo Tornimäe 5, Tallinn b3

Mamo was one of the first places in Tallinn to offer organic

foods, vegetarian/vegan options and much more. Set up like a cafeteria you are expected to clear your plates after you eat. Both hot and cold meals are available from the counter, along with freshly baked muffins and cakes.

Bliss Mustamäe tee 17, Tallinn

This vegetarian buffet restaurant has around 100 hot and cold dishes to choose from daily. Though it’s a bit of a hike from the city, it’s certainly worth the trip for a beautifully presented buffet with great, fresh food. ■

Tokumaru offers vegan ramen.

Bliss offers about 100 dishes to choose from in their vegetarian buffet.

V restaurant has an all-vegan menu.

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restaurants

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Warm Flavours Ginger India & Thai Cuisine offers a taste of Asian cuisine

asian TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Ginger India & Thai Cuisine has two

locations in Tallinn, one of which is located in the new Arsenal shopping centre and the other on Toompuiestee. We visited their Arsenal location for lunch.

Arsenal is an old warehouse that has been stylishly renovated.

Ginger fits nicely into the centre with its modern Asian style.

The food at Ginger is prepared

by Indian chef Dil Bahadur Chettri, who is also very well versed in Thai cuisine. We can say we got authentic dishes.

was the main. If the lunch dishes were this great, it’s worth a trip to Ginger for dinner to try their a la carte menu, which offers are selection of Indian and Thai dishes for very reasonable prices. ■

Their lunch special costs 6.50 and

includes soup, main, naan bread, as well as tea. When we visited the soup was tom yum and the main course was chickpea curry and an Indian-style chicken and rice dish.

The soup was very flavourful, as

Ginger fits nicely into Arsenal Centre.

Modern Dining

Location Ginger India & Thai Cuisine Arsenal Shopping Centre Erika 14, Tallinn Toompuiestee 29, Tallinn a1

Elegantly plated dishes whet the appetite.

Fredo Kitchen & Bar can get you through any meal of the day.

bistro TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

It seems like the fine dining scene may be simmering down in Tallinn as places like Fredo Kitchen & Bar open, offering casual meals in a sleek, yet cosy space.

It’s like a modern day bistro, with internationally-inspired dishes that show no limits to the chef’s creativity.

The day at Fredo starts off with breakfast, where you can choose between porridge, an omelette, or a full English breakfast, another thing which we’re starting to see on more and more menus.

Lunch however, is when we vis-

ited and you should too, where in addition to Fredo’s a la carte menu, there is an equally inviting lunch menu. You can check their Facebook page for updates and get a peek at the weekly menus. Two soups, three main courses and a salad bar are on offer each day, where

The team at Fredo Kitchen & Bar.

you can put together a lunch combo.

We decided to try a few things from the à la carte menu. The grilled caesar salad is a generous portion of grilled romaine wedges, served with either chicken or shrimp and homemade caesar dressing. For mains, the homemade lamb dumplings were served steamed with sour cream

and herbs. The Black Angus burger was juicy and served with crispy fries. Everything was plated with great thought and care. re.

Service was friendly and fast. ■

Location Fredo Köök & Baar Tartu mnt. 83, Tallinn c4

--------------------Appetisers: €4.90–7.90 Mains: €5.90–19.90 Dessert: €1.30–4.50 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Try the daily lunch special.

--------------------Lunch: €3.50–6.50 Appetisers: €3.50–8.90 Mains: €6.50–12.50 Dessert: €2.80–3.60 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

7DOOLQQV RQO\ )LQQLVK NDUDRNH EDU APRIL OFFER:

€8

Finland 100 year Leijona pastilli shot + Vodka and energydrink.

Finnish and International Karaoke Bar, located at Viru 4 (Old Town) in the heart of Tallinn. Originally founded in Helsinki in 1999

Satumaa offers Tallinn’s best Shots: salmar, apple belt, granny’s slipper, ässämix, blueberry shot, strawberry belt, fish We are located in the heart of the Old Town on the main street Viru 4 (courtyard)

KARAOKE.

We have about 36 000 songs in Finnish and English

Open Sunday - Tuesday 18.00-02.00 Wednesday to Friday 18.00-04.00 and Saturday 15.00-04.00

Kim +372 54 569 193 Bookings for private events available

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s April Offer Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

DAILY SOUP €3 + DAILY MAIN €5 =

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet! www.balticguide.ee

€7

Welcome!

ent Enjoym for the y famil whole Located near the west gate of the Tallinn Zoo, 22 Family Resto offers wonderful meals for both big and small visitors.

Enjoy close to 50 different kinds of Belgian beer, each one unique, with its own 100-year history.

Cosy atmosphere, large summer terrace and activities for children.

Visit our

www.22resto.ee page for more info: 22 Family Resto Meistri tn 22, Haabersti, Tallinn Open Mo-Fr 8-23, Sa-Su 12-23

beauty

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

In addition to Thai massage, Thai Lotus Spa also offers cosmetic services like facials that can be combined into a spa package as well.

Relax and Recharge Thai Lotus Spa is a warm inviting oasis in the city centre.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Walking into the Thai Lotus Spa,

April Offer - Silhouette (-40%) Warmer weather is just around the corner, so why not prepare ourselves for the sun with this month’s special spa package “Silhouette”. For €86.90 try four different procedures including a 15 minute infrared sauna, a one-hour anti-cellulite massage, a one-hour traditional Thai or Thai oil massage, and finish it off with a one-hour toning facial.

you are immediately greeted by a friendly receptionist and made to feel right at home. Leave your shoes and coat at the door, step into some cosy slippers and enjoy a cup of tea before your procedure.

Thai Lotus has been open for about half a year and specialises in traditional Thai massage.

Their masseurs are from Thailand and have been professionally trained in their field. Traditional Thai massage is different from regular massage, in that you are given loose-fitting clothing, like pyjamas to wear and you sit with the masseuse on a mat. She then moves your body into various positions, stretching and moving problem areas.

We opted to try the Thai oil massage to relax and recharge tired bones. This is a full body massage, where the masseuse starts on the back, working down the legs to the feet and then back

up to the arms, shoulders and chest. Not only is it relaxing, it’s also warming, the masseur’s strong hands get your circulation going. Afterwards, you are relaxed, yet energised.

In addition to Thai massage, Thai Lotus Spa also offers cosmetic services like facials that can be combined into a spa package as well. Couples are welcome and can enjoy a romantic massage while lying side by side. Groups of up to 5-6 people can book an afternoon, where the package can be tailored to the group. You can also sign up for a client card with a one-time fee of 10, after which you’ll be eligible for a discounted rate on all procedures. If you know you’re coming to Tallinn, booking can be made ahead of time online as well. ■

Location Thai Lotus Spa Aia 3/Vana-Viru 10, Tallinn Old Town h3

33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

NEW – The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia.

An exhibition of artisan.

Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn

www.folkart.ee

Sizes 33-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-17 Su -

Kuninga 1, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia.

Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia.

Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

THAI ORCHID SPA IS THE CENTRE FOR ASIAN WELLNESS AND HEALTH PHILOSOPHY!

Read articles online:

Experienced and professional Thai masters offer the possibility to enjoy traditional Thai massage, Thai aroma or oil massage, Thai foot reflexology and luxurious eastern spa treatments.

Aia 4 / Vana-Viru 13 Tallinn 10145 +(372) 599 999 88, +(372) 545 223 44 info@thaispa.ee

www.balticguide.ee b lti id

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

www.thaispa.ee Opening Hours: Mo-Sa 09-21, Su 10-21

f of nt

% cli 0 e y 1 re ith e

f w on jo En nd a ard oup c sc a i th

New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel.

Be creative and make your ideas come to life!

Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies.

• Pearls, semi-precious stones • Beads • Jewellery accessories • Gift boxes • Yarns • Knitting supplies • Embroidery supplies • Embroidery floss • Art supplies • Oil and acrylic paints • Children’s crafts • Soap-making supplies • Candle-making supplies • School supplies • School bags • Office supplies • Clay • and much more.

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

Entrance through the underpass!

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

day

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Recharge Take in the view over Viru Bog.

Escape the city with a hike in the woods on one of RMK’s many trails.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, KRISTINA LUPP

Hiking in Estonia is beautiful any

time of year, but it’s particularly nice in spring. The days are longer, the forest is starting to come back to life, and best of all, the sun is shining --well, at least some of the time.

RMK or the State Forest Management Centre maintains, grows, and manages about 40 of Estonian forests. That’s quite a lot if you think that approximately half of the country is covered with

forest. Within these forests are national parks, nature reserves, and hundreds of kilometres of hiking trails to be discovered.

Even within an hour’s drive of Tallinn, there are plenty of trails to explore. There is something for every skill level and distance.

Põhja-Kõrvamaa Nature Reserve, for example is located about 50 km east of Tallinn. In addition to the many hiking trails, the longest of which spans 36 km, you can also get around by bicycle. Bikes can be rented from the Kõrvamaa hiking centre.

y trip

11

e Outdoors

Located one hour east of Tallinn, Lahemaa is the largest national park in Estonia. The visitor centre is located in Palmse, where you will also see an impressive restored manor. One of the most popular destinations is Viru bog nature trail, as it is very conveniently located just off the road, making it not only easy to access, but also easy to find. RMK parks and trails are very well marked. Viru bog, or raba as it’s known in Estonian, covers about 1.4 km, part of which is covered in boardwalk to a tower where you can climb to the top and look out over the bogs.

Kakerdaja nature trail is another popular destination, though a little bit further from Tallinn (60 km southeast of the city). The trail takes you through

Check the RMK website for information about campfire sites.

from Noku campsite through Kakerdaja bog to Kalajärve Lake.

3.3 km of the trail are covered in boardwalk.

Particularly fun are the trails that run along the cliffs at Rannamõisa Landscape Protection Area / Tabasalu Nature Park (15 km west of Tallinn). The trail starts along the top of the cliff and then goes down a set of stone stairs to the foot of the cliff, returning to the start of the trail. Here you will certainly find stunning views of the seaside, as well as different campfire spots.

To plan your trip, RMK has created a very easy-to-use website: https://loodusegakoos.ee/ where-to-go/.

■

events

12 Events in Estonia recommended by culture.ee

11th Japanese Animation Film Festival JAFF Japanese Animation Film Festival JAFF is an annual film festival

bringing the latest and greatest animated, feature and documentary films from Japan to the cinemas of Tallinn, Tartu and Pärnu.

Find out more: www. animefest.eu www.facebook. com/jaff.eu/ ■

Easter at the Open Air Museum TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO

Easter has many names in Eston-

ian - Egg Holiday, Spring Holiday, Swing Holiday. You can learn about Estonian Easter traditions on 16 April at the Estonian Open Air Museum in Tallinn.

Lent finishes at Easter, meaning that meat can be eaten again.

This can be seen during the celebration; the Open Air Museum’s Kolu Kõrts will be offering traditional Easter food. Eggs will be painted in front of the museum.

Location

Photo: EMD 2017

14-23 April Various locations around Estonia

Estonian Music Days 2017

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

There are many other things to do in the other houses of the museum. You can learn about Orthodox traditions at the Setu and Peipsi Old Believers’ houses.

An egg rolling competition, singing and egg painting will also take place. ■

Location Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti vbaõhumuuseum), Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn

You can’t do everything, but at least you can do something TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The festival “Estonian Music Days”, which has been held

since 1979, focuses on the freshest creation of Estonian composers. The festival’s theme is “Through the Dusk”.

“It’s getting dark,” people think, and stop what they are doing. Then they listen, as dusk is the time for listening. This is because the senses are alert in every way, and responsive to every invitation. The sounds heard in the dimness are like windows, gates... Gates between the day and night. Gates between the impossible and possible. Gates for what is on this side and on the other. Darkness amplifies the sounds into an invitation!

The festival “Estonian Music Days” (EMP) comes again with the fresh energy of spring!

Taking place for the 38th time already, EMP is Estonia’s largest festival for premieres, bringing more than 25 new pieces written especially for the festival by our most outstanding composers of all generations to the audience over a week in 2017.

The programme of the Estonian Music Days is available here: www.eestimuusikapaevad.ee ■

Location April 6–13, 2017 Tallinn

Femmage Femmage is a messed-up hom-

age to five women who started revolutions with solos in contemporary dance in their time.

And if not revolutions, then at least something that shook up the understanding of dance and thinking about dance in general.

“Femmage” is like a retrospective, but really not, as we

will not quote the solos oneon-one, but make our own based on them, inspired by them, on impulse. ■

Location Sõltumatu Tantsu Lava Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn 5 April

The thought in this headline comes to

mind when we attended the opening of the new exhibition Ocean Free of Plastic” at the Energy Discovery Centre in Tallinn in early March.

Every year 10 million tonnes of plastic finds its way into our oceans. It’s even thought that in 2500 years, there will be more plastic than fish in the water.

Plastic that makes its way into the oceans harms both plant life and animals. Small bits of plastic are consumed by fish, which are then consumed by humans. It’s sad to see birds like the albatross gather plastic pieces to feed itself and its young.

The discovery centre’s exhibition presents very easy ways in which each of us can do our part and start using less plastic bags, ultimately leading to less plastic waste in our oceans. We don’t need to use plastic grocery bags and we don’t need to buy disposable water bottles, when we can reuse old ones. Look for cosmetics that don’t contain plastic.

The exhibition has come to Estonia from Denmark and is open until the end of April. ■

Location Energy Discovery Centre (Energia Avastuskeskus), Põhja pst. 29, Tallinn

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

events

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Jüri Pootsmann: Living for Today TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Jüri Pootsmann is probably the

most popular pop singer within Estonia at this moment, and that’s been the case since his breakthrough in 2015 and 2016, when he won Eesti Otsib Superstaar, the local version of Idol, and then, on the back of a successful debut EP, was thrown straight into the bear-pit of Eurovision 2016 as the winner of Eesti Laul. This has not been a regular two years for the young man who once sat in his mother’s front room and said how great it would be to be on stage at the Estonian Music Awards.

“I’ve changed a lot,” Pootsmann said. We were crammed into the corner of a new wine bar in central Tallinn, two young women having instinctively given up their table so the man seen as a heartthrob for many could sit down. “I think found my own path. In the beginning I was struggling to find my own rhythm and people, and although I was with people who had been in the industry already many, many years, I knew I had to find my own way, otherwise my career wouldn’t last very long because I wouldn’t be comfortable with what I was doing. Now I’ve found my own people, and

of course I want to develop even more and write my own music, but I have time, and I don’t feel pressure in that respect.”

Referring to that whirlwind year-and-a-half, it was a more sanguine Pootsmann who looked back - although he still thought very carefully about what he wanted to say, often changing his course midsentence. “It’s difficult because it all happened so fast, within one year.

Some people achieve that within a longer period of time - winning Idol and Eesti Laul, and I feel I can learn a lot from that. I have to take it easy now; I’m not rushing anywhere, I’m not stressed out.”

Eurovision, in Stockholm, wasn’t

all about business. “I found a lot of friends, I’m still chatting with a lot of them! It’s the biggest stage in the world and really important for everyone there, but I wanted to take everything I could from it because I knew I probably wouldn’t be there again. I had a blast, a really good time. The crazy thing is, for two or three months, you’re working towards only those three minutes when you’re on stage.”

“We met the boss of Universal Sweden, and lots of different important people, and made some connections, but it was also

a party, and I had a really great time - Stockholm is a really great city. I’d love to go to Eurovision again, to cheer for Estonia.”

The Baltic Guide reviewed Pootsmann’s new album, Täna (Today), back in February’s issue.

It seemed then to be a continuation of the mid-tempo romantic pop with hints of eighties Scottish acts like Prefab Sprout and Deacon Blue. “There were four or five people involved - people I know and respect. It was pretty natural; no-one was forced to do anything, everyone was excited to be involved. It was natural, easy, because the people all knew each other and it was organic.”

However there were also some funkier songs that seemed to be an attempt to reposition Pootsmann as a Justin Timberlake-type artist.

The singer denied this was part of a strategy, saying he never set out to make a romantic, or funk-driven, album, just a good one. “It wasn’t really a deliberate plan - though there are a few upbeat songs on the album, yes. We’re pretty happy with the results. I never plan what style we’re going to do - I just try to do it from the heart.”

There is one English song on Täna,

Loving Arms, which is a melodic ballad, but feels, to this author

slightly incongruous next to the pop elsewhere on the record. “We didn’t know if we should put it on the album or not - we weren’t comfortable with writing Estonian lyrics to that song. My producer came up with this sentence, ‘I want to die in your loving arms,’ and it sounded stupid translated into Estonian, so we got a lyricist to write English lyrics. We didn’t have a masterplan, though.”

Pootsmann is king of all he surveys

within the Estonian pop market at the moment. There are few who can match his music’s reach, and even fewer who can claim a comparably-sized fanbase. Did that make it difficult to envisage trying to break international music markets? “In Estonia it can be really comfortable for an artist because you earn your living, there are a lot of people who listen to artists, and you don’t really need to go outside Estonia with your music.”

“I think it’s important to develop and move on, but it’s difficult and really risky, and you have to start again in a new market. It would take years to be successful, but I’ll do it soon - I’ll try, at least. I have to think I’ll be successful. Otherwise you stay where you are... I have to try.” ■

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shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

■ Department

Stores Owner Riikka Orpana has a lot of experience in business and natural products.

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2.

This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Free bus from the port.

This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America.

It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

■ A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.

This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Free bus from the port.

A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8.

Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

New Finnish store is a force of nature Have your body’s nutrient levels measured in store.

TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Those that like natural products

will be pleased to know a new shop has opened in Tallinn’s Old Town by the name of Tervisepood Tallinn, or Health Store.

Owner Riikka Orpana has a lot of experience in business and natural products, and has come to know the appreciation that Estonians have for these products.

“It’s great when clients offer tips”, explains Orpana. Estonian clients often offer advice on how to treat a cold or talk about herbs that Orpana hasn’t even heard of herself.

Orpana also offers vitamin and nutrient tests, meaning that clients can know if they are getting all of the necessary vitamins and minerals from their diet. She has been surprised to see some of the

Orpana offers vitamin and nutrient tests.

results. Food in Estonia is much more varied and healthier than the Finnish diet, which can be seen in the negative test results of many of her Finnish clientele.

The selection of products in Tervisepood Tallinn is slowly growing and clients can look for-

ward to natural cosmetics in the future as well. Orpana also has plans for an online shop. ■

Location Tervisepood Tallinn, Müürivahe 28, Tallinn i3

The fashionista’s market TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTO BUDUAAR

The Estonian beauty and fashion

site Buduaar will be organising its seventh sale Buduaar Market Live. Three hundred sellers will come together from 15-16 April at the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn, selling clothes and shoes. Most sellers are individuals selling good quality new or used clothing.

Over the years, sellers have included some famous Estonians.

The previous First Lady Evelin Ilves even took part one year. The event is organised by known stylist Ženja Fokin.

There will certainly be some great finds with even better prices.

Bargaining is allowed.

■

Location Buduaari Turg Live, Saku Suurhall, Paldiski mnt 104b, Tallinn.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

15

shopping

New plants for the garden There are many garden centres in and around Tallinn, where you will find great prices on trees, bushes, and other plants.

TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

You’re best bet is to visit a garden

centre, where you can get a travel pass for apple and pear trees, which helps prevent the spread of blight. Keep your receipt incase you need it at the border. Before you buy, check with your local Cites author-

ity to find out about specific regulations.

From the end of April onwards, you can look forward to many different flower and garden fairs throughout Estonia. The biggest events, among others are the Türi Flower Fair at the end of May. You can find out about all the upcoming events at laadakalender.ee ■

Gardening Events 2017

Garden centres in and around Tallinn:

■ 20.4.–22.4. Maamess 2017, Fr. R. Kreutzwaldi 60, Tartu.

■ 5.5. Taimelaat (Plant Fair), Põltsamaa.

■ 5.–7.5. Lillevälja Aiandustalu Lillelaat (Lillevälja Garden Farm Flower ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Fair), Paikuse vald, Silla küla, Pärnumaa.

12.–13.5. Pärnu Taimelaat (Pärnu Plant Fair), Ringi- ja Sadama- tänavate vaheline ala.

12.–14.5. Luige Maaelu Näituslaat (Luige Rural Exhibition). Laialdane põllumajandusalane üritus Luigel, 7 km Tallinnast mööda Viljandi mnt.

19.–21.5. Türi Lillelaat (Türi Flower Fair). Eesti kevadepealinna traditsiooniline laat.

26.–27.5. Kuressaare Aiandus- ja Lillepäevad (Kuressaare Garden and Flower Days, Saaremaa.

27.5.–28.5. Jäneda Lillepäevad (Flower Days in Jäneda), Tapa vald, Lääne-Virumaa.

A fair home gardener’s fair Spring is high season for gardening fair.

The Pärnu plant fair is one of the biggest events of its kind.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO PÄRNU TAIMELAAT

In May there is practically a plant

or garden fair every weekend.

The Pärnu taimelaat is one of the newer fairs. It was organised in August 2013 for the first time.

“Both sellers and visitors have enjoyed this event”, tells Kati Niibo, organiser for the event from the Pärnu gardening association.

According to Niibo, the Pärnu event differs from other plant

fairs in that there are only gardening-related items for sale.

“We also have a lot of sellers from Latvia with interesting plant types”.

Everything that you would need for the garden is on sale at the

fair: fruit trees, bushes, perennials, coniferous trees, as well as garden tools and machinery. There are about 150 sellers altogether.

“There is a great selection of summer flowers”, explains Niibo.

If you don’t have your own garden, you can buy other things, like the season’s first fresh local strawberries. ■

Location Pärnu taimelaat 12-13 May Vallikraavi Square, Pärnu

■ Aianduskeskus Hortes,

Seljaku 4b, Laagri.

■ Aiakeskus Sesoon,

Rannamõisa tee 4, Tallinn.

■ Calmia Istikuäri, Randvere

tee 91, Tallinn.

■ Hansaplant, Kangru tee 19, Vaela küla, Kiili.

■ Juhani Puukool Tallinna Istikuäri, Pärnu mnt 435, Tallinn.

■ Kristiine Aiakeskus, Linnu tee 39/Kännu 49A, Tallinn.

nightlife

Photo: Tõnu Tunnel

16

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

Don't forget to remove your shoes at Erinevate Tubade Klubi.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Põrgu

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Patt Sadama 6, Tallinn a2

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Karaoke

The Highlander

Shamrock

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town i3

Cigar Lounges

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

The Oak Lounge

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Nightclubs

Sigari Maja

Butterfly Lounge

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Estonian

Café Amigo

Karja Kelder

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Baila

Kochi Ait Tavern

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

T

Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

elliskivi is an area of Tallinn now well-known to tourists and visitors for its selection of bars and restaurants, as well as a constant stream of events happening there.

But there are new nightspots opening all the time there, and we thought it was time to look at one of them, while also casting an eye on some of the places people have been able to enjoy for a long time.

St. Vitus (Telliskivi 61b) opened up at the end of 2016 in a dull old industrial building that housed a cleaning company’s offices, and is behind the local Rimi supermarket and a collection of recycling bins. Although the location is hardly glamorous, and the name can, if mispronounced, sound like a particularly harsh Estonian curse-word, this is a bar for everyone, that takes advantage of a very large open space to make something new and enjoyable for a social drink, or for a meal with friends.

The walls in St. Vitus are adorned with slogans, jokes and quotes, and the addition of booth seating around the edges of the building mean that groups can chat together without the stress of making themselves heard over the echo that can often prevail in such a highceilinged place. Having tried the burger on black bread, which comes at a quite high price for

Von Krahl

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Telliskivi Keeps on Delivering

Cubanita Live Cafe

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Klubi Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Chicago 1933

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Late Night Dining Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

The walls in St. Vitus are adorned with slogans, jokes and quotes.

a meat patty, it’s possible to say that the culinary side has some way to go before it catches up with its competition across the road, but what really impresses are the the drinks.

Estonian craft beer is, of course, well-represented in the artisan, hipster area of the Estonian capital - that’s to be expected.

However the usual suspects are joined by myriad brands that are

perhaps only fleetingly available elsewhere, such as the strong, peppy Lager Than Life, with its amateurish bottle art that, a friend said, “needs Comic Sans,” and the smooth, rich, Indulgents India Pale Ale. It’ll take you longer than an evening to try everything in the cabinet, and as this column encourages responsible drinking, we recommend repeat visits.

When you’re done trying new nightspots, it’s always good to head back to old haunts, especially if they’re as strong as they ever were. Kivi Paber Käärid (Telliskivi 60A) is a great example of a bar that has carved out a name for itself through a fun approach to service and a series of wellreceived events.

The bar’s name means “Rock, Paper, Scissors,” and the theme is continued in the toilets, where a quote about who wins the timehonoured game is cut into the wooden cubicle door. The bar itself can feel a little dark and cold when you enter, mostly because of the preponderance of dark greens

and browns used for the walls and tables. but staff make up for that by being some of the very best in Telliskivi. They’re given the training and the confidence to spend time advising customers on what beer or wine would be best for their tastes, and if you want food with your drink, the waiters and waitresses know inside-out the menu.

What makes Kivi Paber Käärid a nightlife entry rather than a restaurant is the regular music events that are held on the bar’s stage. Every kind of live band can be heard there, along with excellent DJ sets.

And if you want more in the way of top-line DJing, then on selected nights Erinevate Tubade

Klubi (Telliskivi 60A,“The Club of Many Rooms”) is open for business on the

fourth floor of Telliskivi Creative Hub’s tallest building, and if you remove your shoes, don the supplied slippers, and stroll in, you’ll find a room for each of your everchanging moods, with a bar, a video games room, a dance floor and cubby-holes for all kinds of groups.

ETK is usually open until late. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

nightlife

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

Jazzkaar Puts Arms Round Estonia TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTO KAUPO KIKKAS

T

he concerts you really ought to watch out for in Estonia in April mostly come under the auspices of Jazzkaar, the name for the Tallinn-based music festival that has captured the imagination of both connoisseurs and casual listeners for years, but which is also stretching its legs to take in gigs across Estonia in 2017. These run from 19th April until 28th April, while the full festival begins on 21st April and goes to the 30th.

The tour begins with five of the best young French jazz players, together as the fearless Papanosh, who will be in Türi Culture Centre on 19th April.

Also on the same day, Marie Vaigla, best known for her stirring vocals with Frankie Animal, forms a family duo with bassist brother Raul. The Vaigla family is renowned in Estonia, and this will almost certainly be a sell+out at Narva Jazz Club, in an easterEstonian city that has long harboured a thriving jazz scene.

Liisi Koikson is one of Estonia’s best-loved singers, having switched from pop to jazz in the mid-2000s and taken bold steps since to change musical direction. Koikson’s Coffee for One tour will hit the palatial surroundings of Saku Manor on

22nd April, and then go to Pärnu Endla Küün on 26th April, before the singer returns to Tallinn for a starring role in Jazzkaar itself.

Teaming up with Sofia Rubina, Susanna Aleksandra, Intars Busulis and the Estonian Dream Big Band, Koikson will be performing a tribute to possibly the greatest jazz singer of them all, Ella Fitzgerald, on what would have been the American vocalist’s 100th birthday.

Maarja Nuut is perhaps the breakthrough Estonian artist of 2016, her new album Une Meeles showcasing a confident, daring update of her violin-and-loops folk sound that had hypnotised audiences for many years. The Estonian National Museum might still be a venue that people are growing into - it’s a cavernous glass construction curving out of an old aircraft runway on the outskirts of Tartu - but Nuut has a way of making every large venue feel like it’s a front room, and will bring joy and colour to the museum’s pristine white walls. If you want to see her early-evening family concert, it’s on 26th April, after a stop at Vaba Lava in Tallinn on 22nd April.

Last year, Maria Faust closed Jazzkaar with a performance of bonkers brilliance, backed up by an army of people on exercise bikes.

This time it’s a collaboration with

Danish experimentalist Kira Skov that means Faust will open the festival in Tallinn at Vaba Lava with yet more surprises for a waiting audience. That’s on 21st April.

Anne Erm, creative director of Jazzkaar, brings in at least one major star from the international jazz world to play Tallinn each year. This time, Dianne Reeves brings a sound honed on 30 years of performing and 18 solo albums to Tallinn, on 27th April at Nordea Concert Hall. Reeves is one of the jazz world’s true treasures, and tickets range from 25 to 55 depending on the seat.

Iyeoka, a Nigerian-American who has been said to channel inspiration from the likes of Lauryn Hill and Amy Winehouse, is something for possibly a younger audience who feel a connection with old-school jazz but also with chart pop and dance. Iyeoka’s club-friendly electronic-assisted sound loses none of its soul amid the technology, and will be well worth a listen on 28th April at Vaba Lava. ■

✏

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.

Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.

Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns.

Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays STUART GARLICK is a

journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn.

Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

18

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7

Traditions and Change – Sustainable Futures AIMA’s next triennial congress CIMA XVIII takes place in Tartu at the Estonian Agricultural Museum.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

A

IMA (International Association of Agricultural Museums)'s purpose is educate about agricultural significance, its development and creating an international dialogue about agricultural discoveries and topics. This year’s congress topics focus on how traditions and rural heritage can be used to stimulate change for a sustainable future.

An agricultural museum operates not only as a museum of tangible and intangible cultural heritage, but as a research institution.

The congress takes place at the Estonian Agricultural Museum in Tartu. It kicks off with many different workshops on 10th May including, Bread and Traditional Food,

CIMA XVIII Traditions and Change – Sustainable Futures ■ 10–13 May 2017 Tartu ■ 13 May Themed field trips to selected regions ■ 11 May Study tours in Tartu ■ 14–16 May 2017 Postcongress tour to Saaremaa

Agricultural and Rural Life in Art, Digital Media and IT in Museums, and many more. A welcome reception follows and study tours take place on 11th May. The following day is the heart of the event with presentations from international keynote speakers and more. The full programme can be viewed at: www.cima2017.eu ■

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee.

We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee.

01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18.

1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/.

1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18.

1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee.

01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17.

Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee.

We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2.

(Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum.

1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee.

Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee.

Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17.

July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee.

Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee.

We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TH BA TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™A A P RP IRLI L2 02 10 71 7

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

Kanuti 5

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

J. Poska Mere pst

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

4

Balti jaam Ädala

Taksopark Koskla

Linnahall Port

Hobujaama

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

UUS-MAAILM

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

KADRIORG 1, 3

KADRIORG

Paberi

VEERENNI

Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja

Majaka

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli Pae

Bus Station

VäikePaala

Majaka põik

Ülemiste

Who can ride for free:

NB!

Tedre

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

Linnu tee

TallinnVäike

Sääse

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Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

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MUSTAMÄE

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Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

■ 30-day: €23

Vineeri

Tihase

Aiandi

■ Single-ride ticket from driver: €2 ■ 24-hour: €3 ■ 72-hour: €5 ■ 5-day: €6

2 4

Marja

ÕISMÄE

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

More information: www.visittallinn.ee/visitor/plan/getting-around/ public-transport.

JÄRVE

Airport

At the beginning of September, tram line 2 will run from Ülemiste to the train station where a new turnaround point has been made.

The line also has a new stop at Merekeskus. Bus number 52 will continue to run to Kopli until tram line 1 resumes service in autumn 2017.

■ Registered residents of Tallinn ■ Tallinn Card holders ■ Unaccompanied children under 6 ■ Children under 3 with one accompanying adult

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24 and 48 hrs on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square.

Tickets: adults: €19/24hr, €23/48hr www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

20

transport

I DE E ™™ A AP PR RI LI L 2 20 01 17 7 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Bussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia.

Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372.

Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.elron.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station tion to the city: tram ram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking

P

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ys

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Nordica - Estonia's newest airline, replacing Estonian Air currently serves many routes in Europe and Scandinavia in cooperation with Adria Airways. +372 664 2200 info@nagroup.ee, www.nordica.ee Open 5.00-21.00, Sa 5.00-16.00

Photo: Nordic Aviation Group

Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso.

A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots.

The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle.

This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

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23

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 7 TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Best Views of Tallinn With warm weather and sunny days just around the corner, it’s time to explore Tallinn from above and see it from a different angle.

HOTEL VIRU & KGB MUSEUM Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2

BALLOON TALLINN Sadama 25a, Tallinn a2

Enjoy a stunning view of Tallinn from a hot air balloon, right in the heart of the city. Located at the Port of Tallinn, the tethered balloon takes you 120 metres in the air for a unique view of Tallinn. Flying is weather dependant. Operates daily May – September, weekends October – April.

MEALS WITH A VIEW

ST OLAF’S CHURCH Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town f2

Once the tallest building in the world (from 1549-1625), the 124-metre tower of the church can be climbed from April to October. If you can make it to the top, the view of the Old Town is certainly worth the climb.

Not every view in Tallinn involves a long climb to the top. Some places have elevators, like Horisont Restaurant & Bar, located on the top floor of the Swissotel (Tornimäe 3, Tallinn b2) and the rooftop terrace at Radisson Blu Sky Hotel (Rävala pst 3, Tallinn b2). A little bit further along the coast towards Viimsi, you can stop in NOA (Ranna tee 3, Tallinn), one of the city’s top restaurants for a beautiful view across the bay.

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the 23rd floor of the Sokos Hotel Viru. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour.

TALLINN TOWN HALL TOWER Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Tallinn’s Town Hall is the only intact Gothic town hall in Northern Europe. In July and August it’s open as a museum and from June to August, climb the 64-metre tower for some spectacular views of Tallinn, right in the heart of the Old Town.

TOOMPEA HILL VIEWING PLATFORMS AT KOHTUOTSA, PATKULI & PIISKOPI The upper area of the Old Town, or Toompea as it’s called has a few hidden viewing platforms. Piiskopi aed or Bishop’s Garden is located on the west side of the hill and overlooks Kalamaja and Pelgulinn.

In the 18th and 19th centuries it served as the garden’s for the Dome Church. The east corner of Toompea or Kohtuotsa platform is probably one of the most photographed areas of the Old Town, from where you can see the Old Town with a backdrop of the modern city. The north side of the hill or Patkuli platform offers the best view of the Town Wall and towers, St Olav’s Church and the harbour. After, walk down the winding staircase to Schnelli Park below.

PIRITA TV TOWER

Pirita tee 1, Tallinn a4

Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn

One of the most picturesque strolls in Tallinn is along the 2km paved pathway that stretches from Kadriorg to Pirita along the seaside. Enjoy a beautiful view of the Tallinn skyline and watch the ships come in and out.

Tallinn’s TV tower, standing at 314 metres is Estonia’s tallest building. Head up to the 170 metre viewing platform for an interactive exhibition or “walk on the edge” of the tower, if you dare!

VIIMSI OPEN AIR MUSEUM Muuseumi tee 1, Pringi

Located on the coast in Pringi, just past Viimsi, not only does this open air museum offer a glimpse into the everyday life of coastal folk, it also gives you a view of the city from the other side of the bay.

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