The Baltic Guide ENG June 2016 by The Baltic Guide

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

J U N E 2 0 16

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA PATIO HOPPING

Where to enjoy a drink outside ESTONIAN BEAUTY

Locally-made summer skin care DON’T WALK

Alternative ways to seeing the sights GIG GUIDE

From folk to rock – the season’s hottest tickets

John

Nightlife: Dancing, drinking, and fun in the city

RA VE RT ME UM LS CIA

PL US :S

Come and get him in Tallinn!

Newman

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Secrets of Midsummer

f you happen to be in Tallinn for Midsummer, you’ll probably be wondering why it’s so quiet. Midsummer or St John’s Eve and St John’s Day are celebrated on June 23 and 24 in connection with the summer solstice, a day where the sun almost doesn’t set. Many locals leave for the countryside, to their cottages in the forest, by a lake, or at the beach. According to legend it is the night when the young girl Eha meets the young boy Koit. Eha means evening twilight and Koit morning twilight. On Midsummer’s night the two youngsters only meet for a short kiss, then they part and have for a whole year to meet again! Midsummer’s Eve is celebrated outdoors and nobody goes to sleep. People gather, sing and dance. Activities are centred around a big bonfire and food is prepared on a BBQ. There is also the tradition of jumping over the bonfire, which according to the legend is a

guarantee for prosperity and to avoid bad luck. Others claim that it is a symbol for a connection with the past. But if you see one of these bonfires, you’d wonder how anyone could jump over something so big. The good fortune must come from not falling in! Another tradition is a try on the big wooden village swings. You stand up and increase your speed until you make a 360-degree turn around the bar. Midsummer’s Eve coincides with Victory Day, which goes back to the defeat of German Landeswehr on June 23, 1919. Victory Day celebrations start with a joyous military parade, which has become a popular family event. The President lights a torch and fires are then lit all over the country as a symbol of independence and of free spirit.

Contents 3 editorial

restaurants Happy travels! Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

4 restaurants: Tallinn's best terraces Wok to Walk Restaurant news

June Highlights 01 STREET FOOD TAKES OVER TALLINN Tallinn Street Food Festival brings thousands of foodies to the Telliskivi area 11-12 June. Tens of street food vendors, restaurants, and food trucks will be taking part from Estonia and abroad.

02 SUMMER IN THE CULTURE GARDEN

shopping g

Pada Creative Hub Garden will offer all kinds of interesting programmes this summer, with everything from outdoor yoga to dance parties that last until morning. A café is also open in the garden and the entrance is from the Kalasadam side.

03 MIDSUMMER FAIR The annual Midsummer Fair (Avinurme tünnilaat) takes place in Avinurme in Ida-Virumaa 23 June. It’s an event for the whole family offering handicrafts, music, dance, food and drink.

04 MIDSUMMER BONFIRE AT THE OPEN AIR MUSEUM Familiarise yourself with Estonia’s bonfire tradition on 23 June at the Estonian Open Air Museum in Rocca al Mare. The programme will include folk music, dance, a children’s programme, and of course the massive Midsummer bonfire.

6 shopping 8 summer event calendar alendar 9 outside of Tallinn n 10 nightlife 12 beauty 13-19 summer travel vel special 22 sightseeing 23 transport 24-25 visitor information mation and maps

Your Comments Y C t

This year’s theme at the Tallinn Flower Festival is terrace flowers and passion for the garden. In addition to Estonians, there will be participants from Finland, Germany, Hungary, and Latvia. The festival takes place in the Tower’s Square Park until 26 August, so it’s worth a few visits to see the garden in different stages of bloom.

■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

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Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: John Newman promo

JUNE 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

@ balticguide_en

05 A COLOURFUL FLOWER FESTIVAL

restaurants

4 RESTAURANT NEWS The newly renovated Kultuurikatel just got its own restaurant. There is no shortage of quality here, because the brains behind the operation is the well-known Carmen Group (CRU and City Marina are their projects, among others). The new restaurant is called Korsten, Armastus &Hea Toit. It’s located on the smokestack side of the building. You may have noticed the large hole alongside Tallinn central train station. The market has moved towards Telliskivi and is now called Depoo Turg. Those that remember the old market can already say that the new one is cleaner and larger than before. And it’s not just a food and antique market, four new restaurants have opened up beside it. Peatus is built into two railway cars that are united by a terrace. The menu is made up of old train menu favourites like potato salad. Päästke Willy or Free Willy is named after the popular film. It serves fish caught in Peipsi Lake, offering Estonian-style fish and chips made from pike perch. Opposite the fish and chip takeaway is Konteiner, which is built into a shipping container. It’s a Vietnamese restaurant, where we recommend trying the fried bananas. A red curry with prawns costs 5.90. TSUH-TSUH takes it’s name from a children’s song about trains. It serves up kebabs and falafel. Try the special beetroot falafel. ■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Tallinn’s Best Terraces Take in some sun while enjoying some great food and drinks. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Every year we ask Tallinn locals

what their favourite places to eat and drink al fresco are. While we can’t list everything, here are some places you should definitely check out while in Tallinn. Viru Street will be under construction, so unfortunately there won’t be any terraces open there for the time being, but restaurant will still be open.

Kehrwieder Saiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town h2 Tallinn’s Town Hall Square is spotted with terraces in the warm months. Kehrwieder dispels the myth that all of these places are tourists traps. Reasonably priced drinks, freshly roasted coffee, pastries, and meals can be enjoyed on their terrace, which is also an excellent place for people watching.

Leib Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3 If you’re looking for a quiet garden oasis, you’ve come to the right place. Leib Resto & Aed focuses on Estonian cuisine using only local ingredients. Their menu is inventive and their drinks list is carefully chosen. In summer the garden of the old Scottish Club turns into an outdoor restaurant with plenty of seating, as well as a grill.

inside or outside on their beautifully designed terrace and enjoy a great cocktail or a wonderful meal. Located a bit outside of Tallinn on the way to Viimsi, it’s certainly worth the trip to 2015’s Best Estonian Restaurant.

Telegraaf Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town h2 You know summer has arrived when Hotel Telegraaf opens its terrace. Located a stone’s throw from the Town Hall Square, you wouldn’t know that you were in the centre of it all with the quiet refuge this terrace offers. Telegraaf is one the city’s top restaurants, so you can expect great food, fine wines, and top class service.

Café Noble Tööstuse 48, Tallinn The revamped old port district of Noblessner has become a top destination in summer for not only dining, but other activities like sailing. Watch the boats go by from Café Noble’s terrace. The menu offers a great selection of dishes to share, as well as

There is no shortage of terraces to choose from in Telliskivi.

meat and fish from the grill. A perfect place to spend a warm summer’s evening.

Umami Kadaka tee 141, Tallinn Also located a bit outside of Tallinn’s city centre, Umami offers another unexpected hidden terrace. The garden of this old house is spotted with tables among an old apple orchard. Umami’s menu plays with local ingredients and international flavours. The drinks list offers a great selection of local beers and great wines.

Leib's beautiful terrace is a garden oasis in the Old Town.

Komeet Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2 Another sign that summer is here is the opening of Komeet cafe’s rooftop terrace above Solaris shopping centre. During the day and evening, food is served and then on Wednesday nights from June until September, the party is on. Known as Legendary Wednesdays, this is one of the hottest parties in town in summer.

Klaus Kalasadama 8, Tallinn a2 Located at the Kalasadam, or fish port, enjoy a good cup of coffee and a wonderful meal by the sea. Klaus offers a great Sunday brunch too. You can find out more about their changing menu on their Facebook page.

Telliskivi Creative City Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn There is no shortage of cafés and restaurants to choose in this area. An afternoon or evening can easily be spent visiting a few places and enjoying the many terraces in this area. Some of our favourites: Frenchy and Pudel. ■

Noa Ranna tee 3, Tallinn Owned by the same group behind Oko and Tuljak, Noa offers one of the best views of the Tallinn skyline from across the bay. Sit

Location Korsten, Armastus & Hea Toit, Põhja pst 27, Talllinn a2. Peatus, Telliskivi 62, Tallinn a1. Päästke Willy, Telliskivi 62, Tallinn a1. Konteiner, Telliskivi 62, Tallinn a1. TSUH-TSUH, Telliskivi 62, Tallinn a1.

Freshly ‘Woked’ Asian fast food freshly made before your eyes at Wok to Walk in Tallinn’s city centre. TEXT TIMO HUTTUNEN, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

The international chain Wok to Walk

All dishes are prepared in the wok, over an open flame, right in front of your eyes. Vietnamese food at Konteiner.

has over 70 restaurant worldwide. Your meal is prepared in three stages. First, choose either noodles, rice, or vegetables. There are many different kinds of noodles and rice. After, choose your protein: chicken, beef, pork, seafood, tofu or vegetables. You can also add things like garlic, nuts, or sesame seeds. And for the final step you choose your sauce. If you’re looking for something spicy try the Hot Asia sauce. Food is prepared right before your eyes, over an open flame in

a wok. Raw ingredients are always fresh and local. Food is prepared within 15 minutes and you can enjoy it in the restaurant or as takeaway. It’s also great value for money, portions are big and usually total to about 5-6.50. You can add chilli and soy sauce for no added cost. Soda, beer, and wine are available. Wok to Walk is open Sunday to Thursday from 10.00 to 23.00; Friday and Saturday until 06.00. ■

Location Wok to Walk, Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn a2

from

69€

from

39€

Enjoy the best French specialities, milkshakes and smoothies at

VIRU CAFÉ LYON! PRESENTS

TH IS IS ONE O F

T H E B EST R E STAU RANTS O F E STO NIA 20 1 6

Live music every riday and Saturday. F

VIRU CAFÉ LYON IS LOCATED ON THE PARK SIDE OF VIRU CENTER.

www.cafelyon.ee

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shopping

Get the Look!

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS BAGGYS

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

formal, or easy and comfortable, they’ve got it all. Baggys spring-summer collection 2016 is already in stores. The collection “Lady Eveline” is geared towards self-confident women that want luxury and style. It is presented in the newly opened Baggys Old Town located on Viru 4 street.

Location Baggys Old Town Viru tn 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Comfort & Style Shoeshop offers youthful and trendy shoes for all ages. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Shoeshop recently opened in Solaris Shopping Centre to bring Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

For 10 years, Baggys has been bringing new styles and the latest trends in clothing, shoes & accessories to the Estonian market . With the change of season, why not treat yourself to a new purse or bag. “Our clients are both men and women, but they have one thing in common and that’s to maintain their individuality”, explains Marina from Baggys. “We offer different styles and products to ensure that every client can find something that suits them, something unique”. While individuality is the key, the latest trends are not forgotten either. Baggys looks to upcoming trends so all main “must-haves” are available there too. Fancy and

The “Young Heart” collection complements casual, yet stylish ensembles, which can be worn both everyday or more formally. There is also a formal collection suitable for more upscale events. Elegant crocodile skin purses and sea eel skin shoes offer wonderful charm and elegance. Stylish fur products are also for sale in the Old Town location of Baggys all year round. “We look after each client individually”, explains Marina. Sign up for a client card and you’ll receive 5 off every purchase, as well as other offer on seasonal products. ■

Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

stylish and quality footwear for both men and women to Tallinn. Their assortment follows all the latest trends, keeping a youthful vibe, both in their collection and in the atmosphere of the store. “Youthful doesn’t mean only for the young”, explains purchasing manager Liina Oidekivi, “youthful trends are for anyone, no matter what the age”. Shoeshop sells brands that you mostly won’t find anywhere else in Estonia. “Our goal is to expand the assortment of different shoe brands, to provide quality, comfort, and all the latest trends”, says Liina. I ask Liina, what are this season's trends? For women, and for men, comfort is key, but without compromising style. She points to white platform sandals. Silver and sparkle dominate the colour trend. But the classic pointytoed stiletto heel pump will never go out of style either. Even with stiletto-heeled strappy sandals, the multiple straps hold the shoe comfortably in place. For men, the sneaker-shoe combo is very much in style. Here you have the elegance of a quality leather shoe, with the comfort of a rubber sole. These come in all colour

There is a youthful vibe, both in the shop and the collection.

Shoeshop follows all the latest trends.

combinations. There are also slip on shoes for men, great for summer, as Liina says that men tend to avoid buying sandals. Most of the shoes in Shoeshop are made from 100 fine Italian leather, but the price certainly

doesn’t reflect that. Most of the prices fall under 100. ■

Location Shoeshop, Solaris Shopping Centre, 1st floor, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2

NEW - The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia. An exhibition of artisan. Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn

www.folkart.ee

New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel.

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia. Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

Tallinn Old Town Medieval Days 7-10 July 2016

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

Be creative and make your ideas come to life!

Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies. Pearls, semi-precious stones, beads, jewellery accessories, gift boxes, yarns, knitting supplies, embroidery supplies, embroidery floss, art supplies, oil and acrylic paints, children’s crafts, soap-making supplies, candle-making supplies, school supplies, school bags, office supplies, clay, and much more.

Entrance through the underpass!

6L]HV ZZZ YLYLDQYDX HH 0RQ )UL 6DW

Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

WELCOME!

MENS SHOES

WOMENS

FURS CLOTHING

BAGGYS OLD TOWN Viru 4, Tallinn Sun-Thur 10-19 Fri-Sat 10-20

TRAVEL BAGS ACCESSORIES HANDBAGS

BAGGYS ROCCA AL MARE Paldiski mnt. 102, Tallinn Sun-Sat 10-21

Buy 24/7 online with www.baggys24.com

KRISTIINE BAGGYS Endla 45, Tallinn Sun-Sat 10-21

ÜLEMISTE BAGGYS Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn Sun-Sat 10-21

summer event calendar

Beautiful Music & Scenery Kaunid Kontserdid Käsmus opens the Estonian summer festival season. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

About an hour’s drive from Tallinn,

the little seaside town of Käsmu awaits your at the beginning of June with nothing but great music. It’s not only the music, but the atmosphere that make this concert truly special, with the sound of waves lapping against the shore and sea birds singing. The concert opens 2 June with the Vello Orumets 75th birthday gala. The next day, the popular Estonian rock band Tanel Padar & the Sun take the stage. Visiting artists include Eeva and Villu Talsi, Jaan Pehk, and Kadri Voorand, which promises a great evening of music. Other favourite artists are also coming to Käsmu 4 July, like Ott

Lepand and Norkuu. Jäääär celebrate their 25th anniversary on the Estonian music scene on 7 June. And Liis Lemsalu and KarlErik Taukar offer pop sounds on 8 June. The event concludes with a concert by two music legends on 9 June. Tõnis Mägi and Ivo Linna perform together after a year’s break for the concert “Let all be that is good”. Tickets are available from Piletilevi and programme information can be found at: www.kaunidkontserdid.ee

Location

Tallinn Old Town Days, Tallinn 2-5 Tallinn Treff Theatre Festival, Tallinn 2-9 Beautiful Concerts in Käsmu (Kaunid kontserdid Käsmus), Käsmu 3-4 Italian Wine Festival, Haapsalu 4-5 Line Dancing Festival, Pärnu 4-5 Viljandi Hanseatic Days, Viljandi 17-23 Suure-Jaani Music Festival, Suure-Jaani 16-19 Sõru Jazz, Sõru Port, Hiiumaa 23 Avinurme Barrel Fair, Avinurme 28-3 July July Juu jääb, Muhu

6-10 7-10 7-12 8-10 9-10 9-10

Kaunid konserdid Käsmus, 2-9 June., Käsmu Village, Vihula.

Live at the Õllesummer Festival! ser of the Festival, Marje Hansar says: “there is planned a Street Food area, offering handmade burgers and drinks produced by small breweries, along with other high-quality treats. “ But that’s not all: the already popular wine and jazz area, a retro area, Saku Läte Summer Stage with more alternative artists, a B-stage, with performances by Estonian rock bands, a Martini Terrazza pub in the interiors, as well as a large Olybet sports bar will be opened. Estonian performers to look forward to include Jüri Poots-

mann, who represented Estonia at the Eurovision Song Contest, and Genka’s hip hop project featuring Beebilõust, Reket, Suur Papa, Metsakutsu & Paul Oja and many others. Õllesummer is in its 23rd year and brings in 50,000 to 60,000 visitors annually. Presale day tickets cost 15 and full festival passes cost 35. During the festival week, the day tickets cost 20  and passes 45 . Tickets are available from from Piletilevi and Ticketmaster. For more information see: www.ollesummer.ee ■

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JUNE 1-5

6-9

John Newman – From 6-9 July at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds, one of the biggest summer music festivals, Õllesummer, will take place. Õllesummer highlights the start of summer. Each year promises top name international acts and this year is no different. This year’s headliners are the legends of electronic music, The Prodigy (performing 6 July) and British pop-soul star John Newman (performing 8 July). In addition to these, close to 100 artists will perform. Õllesummer is more than just music. The main organi-

SUMMER EVENT CALENDAR 2016

JULY 1-3 1-2 6-9 6-10

■

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

11-17 11-24 15-17 15-17 15-17 23-24 25-31

Hanseatic Days, Pärnu Hard Rock Laager, Vana-Vigala Õllesummer, Tallinn Haapsalu Early Music Festival, Haapsalu Baltoscandal Theatre Festival, Rakvere Võru Folk, Võru Medieval Days, Tallinn Glass Bead Days, Tartu Ceramics Days, Narva Hanseatic Days, Tartu Friendship Fair (Sõbralaat), Kunda Pärnu Music Days, Pärnu Pärnu Film Festival, Pärnu American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu Tallinn Maritime Days, Tallinn auto24 Rally Estonia, Otepää Yoga Festival, Haapsalu Saaremaa Opera Days, Kuressaare

Photo: Prodigy promo

AUGUST 1-6 Love Film Festival, Tartu 4-7 Weekend Festival Baltic, Pärnu 5-6 Augustibluus Blues Festival, Haapsalu 5-7 Leigo Moto Festival, Kiviõli 5-7 War History Festival, Valga 6 Seto Kingdom Day, Valga 11-13 Kuressaare Maritime Days, Kuressaare 12-14 Viru Folk Festival, Käsmu 13-21 Birgitta Festival, Pirita Convent Ruins, Tallinn 13-14 Narva History Festival “Battle of Narva”, Narva 13-14 Hauka Fair, Antsla 13 August Insomnia – Night of Pärnu Arts, Pärnu 19-21 White Lady Days, Haapsalu 21 Tartu In-line Skating Marathon, Tartu 27 Night of the Ancient Bonfires, all over Estonia FOOD EVENTS & FESTIVALS 10-11 June Grillfest – Good Food Festival, Pärnu 11-12 June Telliskivi Street Food Festival, Tallinn 26 July Coastal Folk Festival and Fish Market, Viimsi 4-7 August Café Days, Kärdla 20 August Tahkuranna Pickle Festival, Tahkuranna 20 August Garlic Festival, Ülenurme 27 August Lüübnitsa Onion and Fish Fair, Lüübnitsa 27-28 August “Summer in a jar” Preserves Festival, Narva Castle

TARTU SUMMER EVENTS 2016 ■ Estonian Aviation Days 4–5 June www.lennundusmuuseum.ee ■ International Night of Churches in Tartu 10 June www.kirikuteoo.ee ■ Wow Run

18 June www.wowrun.ee

■ 10th Tartu Love Film Festival “tARTuFF” 1–6 August www.tartuff.ee ■ Emajõgi River Festival 5–6 August www.tartu.ee/emajoefestival ■ The Food Festival 13 August www.ettevotlus.tartu.ee

■ Tartu City Day 29 June www.tartu.ee/linnapaev

■ Urban Festival UIT 17–20 August www.uit.ee

■ Pop Choir Party 2 July www.popkooripidu.ee

■ Garlic Festival 20 August www.küüslaugufestival.ee

■ Festival “Glasperlenspiel” 7–12 July www.erpmusic.com

■ Street Art Festival “Stencibility” 5–11 September www.stencibility.eu

■ Tartu Mill Triathlon 8–10 July www.tartutriatlon.ee

■ Estonian Theatre Festival Draama 5–11 September www.draama.ee

■ Hanseatic Days 9–10 July www.hansapaevad.ee

■ Japanese Pop-Culture Festival AniMatsuri 23–25 September www.animatsuri.eu

■ Auto24 Rally Estonia 2016 15–17 July www.rallyestonia.ee

The Prodigy perform 6 July.

28-31

Viljandi Folk Music Festival, Viljandi Jõgevatreff, Jõgeva

■ Vanemuine Symphony Orchestra Summer Concert 31 July www.vanemuine.ee

■ Festival of Archaic Arts “RegiÖÖ” 23–25 September www.tartu.ee/regioo ■ Tartu Rally 23–24 September www.tarturally.eu ■ Researchers’ Night Festival 25–30 September www.teadlasteöö.ee

nature tourism

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Deep into the marshy wilderness Visit the birds and beavers in the heart of Matsalu National Park.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA, SVEN ZACEK, MAP EVE JAANSOO

The sturdy fishing boat shudders to

life in the old boat shed on Suitsujõe River. Tiit, our oarsman is from Lihula and steers the boat steadily towards Matsalu Bay. In front of us lies a three-hour boat trip through reedbeds and marshes. The passengers on our boat come from four different countries. The English wilderness guide, James Lidster has come to Estonia to learn about nature in Haapsalu and Matsalu before he leads his own group for a week. He tells us this is his fourth visit to Estonia. Debby Doodeman from Holland has come to Estonia for the first time. Both of them are avid birdwatchers. Our group has been brought together by the pioneer of nature tourism and Estonian Nature Tours owner Marika Mann, who suggests trying a boat tour before the busy season begins. The trip begins with the first Marsh

Harriers already gliding above the meadows, and the Barnacle Geese speeding over one another. The thatched roof sheds disappear behind as the river joins the larger Kasari River. The large boat offers a beautiful view. The first Whitetailed Eagle already looms at the mouth of the river. On the right, another White-tailed Eagle takes flight, after which, another set of giant wings can be seen as well.

branches. But in among all this are beaver dams. Marika says that the Kasari River was dredged in the 20th century, so that the grasslands would dry faster after a flood. Just before the monastery we turn the bow of the boat back towards the stream. Tiit stops the motor and lets the boat glide gently through the reeds. And then, out of nowhere something splashes right beside the boat. Debby spots a beaver. “It was huge!” Soon, another beaver is swimming in front and then a third as well. Then we notice about a dozen. They don’t seem to notice us and because of that we get to enjoy watching them eat. You can even smell the beavers because they mark their territory.

Matsalu Beavers ■ There is a large beaver population in Matsalu, where there are tens of dams. About 20,000 European beavers live in Estonia. The biggest rodent in Europe weighs up to 30kg. ■ The best way to see beavers in Matsalu is with a boat trip, which are organised on Suitsujõe. The trip lasts three to four hours, which includes a light meal and a guide. The trips are organised by Estonian Nature Tours in Lihula, who also offer bear watching, bird and plant tours throughout Estonia. For more information see: www.naturetours.ee

Matsalu National Park

Tallinn The mouth of the river opens onto

Matsalu Bay. It’s said that the sky in Matsalu seems somehow bigger and more open than in other places. There are more than enough birds in the bay. James points out a Caspian Tern. After the coffee break we continue against the current along the Kasari River. Debby notices a raptor. It’s a Peregrine Falcon! The old majestic bird moves with strong wings towards Keemu. We travel deeper into the reed beds. At least half a dozen Bittern can be heard as well. We can aĺso hear the sounds of other birds in the reed beds like the Savi's Warblers, the Common

The setting sun paints the reeds

MATSALU

Reed Bunting, and the Blacktailed Godwit. Large flocks of the Eurasian Teals take flight all around us, and other ducks join them too. How many water birds are hid-

ing in the 2000 hectares of reed bed? The scenery is exquisite. The

straight river is bordered with tall trees, old tree stumps and fallen

red. A young elk peers over his shoulder to look at us. Everything around us is so beautiful. As we approach the shore, we can agree that it was a beautiful excursion. “So many different ducks, White-tailed Eagles, Bittern, and of course beavers”, remarks James. He praises Estonian nature. “Beautifully preserved areas of land and many old forests. And silence – wow!” James puts Estonia at the top of natural landscapes in Europe. “Everything works so well here and foreigners can feel very welcome.” ■

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Lounge 24 offers one of the best views of the city.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

SUMMER I

f you’re coming to Tallinn in June, the chances are you’re coming to enjoy the Estonian summer. What ways are there of getting out there and taking in the warm sea breeze, while sipping an evening gin and tonic or dancing the night away? I’ve picked out several options that take you from the most luxurious of surroundings, to the most unassuming but beautiful of curiosities. Let’s journey into the summer, however long it lasts.

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Karaoke

Protest

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

The Oak Lounge

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Club Baila

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Some of Tallinn's coolest people come to Sadama Suveterrass.

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Põrgu

Cubanita Live Cafe

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

TEXT STUART GARLICK

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

in the City

Tapper

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

You can go to any of these places in any order, but we begin with the Radisson Blu Sky Bar, or Lounge 24 as it is officially known (Rävala Pst. 3, Tallinn b2). Yes, you’ve probably been to the similar one in Riga, but what differentiates this one from the other is that you can actually stand outside, taking in the air of the city and looking up and down the coastline for landmarks like the TV Tower, the war monument, and Lasnamäe’s new Orthodox Church, or looking to the Old Town and the protruding spire of St. Olav’s Church for inspiration for your evening. The service is as excellent as you’d expect from a Radisson Blu hotel, and if you get cold, there are great views inside the lounge too. The bar offers a considerable selection of wines, and while all of the choices are pricey, there really is nowhere better to impress someone new to the capital.

years, and although it is situated on top of one of the least lovely buildings of the workmanlike port district, the cafe has great views all around the city. In summer, burgers and other barbeque food are grilled well, there is a selection of drinks, and some of Tallinn’s coolest people come to this terrace as a hipper alternative to the long-running society parties on top of Kohvik Komeet. If you’re willing to compromise the appearance of your surroundings for a great night out, Sadama Suveterrass might just be what you need.

Head to the town of Viimsi, attached to Tallinn by the local bus service, and you’ll reach RootSu Rannabaar or Roots Beach Bar (Kesk Tee 20, Haabneeme). This seaside paradise, attached to RootS Restaurant, is open every summer and has proved a massive hit, offering a series of themed parties throughout the season. Although it brings in a lot of enthusiastic young locals, Roots isn’t just for them - in fact, the bar, with its grill, cocktails, good times and spectacular sea view, is one of the best places at which to party the night away. The atmosphere

But what about if you’re only spending one night in Tallinn, and you want to remain close to the port area? Somewhere, there’s a place for you. Sadama Suveterrass, or

Harbour Summer Lounge (Sadama 6/8, above the market, Tallinn a2), has been running for many

Head to Patarei Prison for an unforgettable beach party.

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

is always convivial and social, and the frequent themed musical parties, which have included a reggae band, make you feel like you’re in paradise. For the kind of beach party you’ll never want to forget, you can go to a clean-cut, commercial and very fun enterprise like Roots, or you can head to the other side of the coast, and to Kalamaja, where the hulking Patarei Prison (Kalaranna 2) is situated. A party in a prison? Well, yes. Each year, resourceful young people hold parties on the small strip of beach behind the former maximum-security jail. You can enjoy a game of football or rugby with a picnic, while watching the white nights continue. At the many and frequent parties held there (for

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

information on which we suggest you check Facebook public events for the Tallinn area, as well as asking the local Couchsurfing group), the people are fun and down-to-earth, the music might be mostly that of an acoustic guitar, but it’s a lot better than being assaulted by ”Wonderwall” all night, and you might even be able to sit down and talk in a big tepee. For certain, this isn’t a conventional night out – but it’s all the more enjoyable for it. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

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beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Summer Skin Pillerkaar’s Marju Sepp talks about summer skin care and locally-made products to help you look your best this season. TEXT MARJU SEPP, PHOTOS PILLERKAAR

The summer sun feels nice on the skin, but it can also be harmful if you get too much. Skin needs different care in summer to look its best. Here are some tips and products I recommend for just that:

Love the Sun

Arles, a hairdresser at Vanalinna Ilusalong has coloured Brigitte’s hair with Emsibeth Spa grey and then cut it with lots of flowing layers.

Summer Hair Fashion TEXT KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS VANALINNA SALONG

Hair, just like clothes, follow fashi-

on trends. The Baltic Guide spoke with Anneli Paat from Vanalinna Salong in the Old Town about what these trends are. “Today’s modern hairstyles play with all kinds of different colours. Every client chooses that colour which suits them, and they can choose between permanent colour, light colour, and even shiny oil colours”, explains Anneli. Colouring with innovative oil colours leaves hair exceptionally shiny. The colours don’t contain any ammonia and cover greys nicely. There will certainly be no burning or discomfort during the colouring process because the colours used contain natural plant oils and thermal

water that soften and soothe the the scalp. Colours from the Italian company Emsibeth Spa cover the hair nicely and give a strong shine. The colour will not fade for up a month and a half. “These season’s hottest colours (spring-summer) are creamy pinks and smoky-grey tones. A creamy-rose colour on blonde hair makes the face tone more creamy and more fair. It’s ideal for many blonde haired women. For those with darker hair, deep, shiny hazelnut and walnut tones dominate”, says Anneli. For more information and booking visit: www.vanalinnasalong.ee ■

Location Vanalinna Salong Suur Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town j2

Summer is coming and we’re all thinking how to look good in this unpredictable northern climate. The face gets the most sun and at the same time, it’s the most sensitive. If you spend little time in the sun (i.e. going to work and coming home) then your face cream does not need to contain SPF because sunblock contains chemicals that can be harmful for the skin. My tip is to use mineral powder, because it is natural (non-chemical) SPF 15 and in addition, mineral powder lets the skin breathe and does not clog pores. cl In other words, it’s both useful and c o m f o r t able to use. (Ontic u Minerals Powder Po d Foundation, 26.95). If you like to sunbathe a little bit, then why not try natural sunbathing oils. There is no chemical SPF added and they give a little bit of protection, roughly SPF 6-8. Natural oils help form a balanced complexion. Try Nurme Sun Tan Oil, 11.99. If you prefer to spend lots of time in the sun, the sun tan cream series from Solar have a good price-quality ratio. They have creams starting at SPF 6 through to 30, as well as creams and milks (4-9). Instead of sunbathing, or in addition to sunbathing, you can fix your complexion with

tanning creams, and of the natural ones, s, ones that contain carrot arrot seed oil are the best, as they don’t stain tain clothes, and are easy to use. They are great for both th a base tan, as welll as prolonging ging the tan. Try: JOIK OIK Grapefruit fruit and Mandarin cream ream with carrot 7.80 and Tone and Shine body oil with carrot oil 9.50. For something for both the face and body try, Green Nature Browning carrot dry oil 15.20; for the face only try Sohvy face cream with carrot oil 8.70 and Sohvy Orange and carrot oil body cream 9.70.

The Baltic Guide tried the carrot oil body cream and you don’t have to worry about g with this turning orange one. It givess a boost to an exist existing ting tan or adds ds a hint of colour our to o start a nicee base. basse. If aft after ter tanningg your yo our skin feels ls d dry or you’ve u’ve eeven got a bit o of burn, then n it’s important to soothe and mo moisturise oisturise the skin. skiin. For example, mplee, LUMIderm m b body oil soothes the s irritated ed skin sk kin and is light; lightt; it is recognised ogniised by stonian the Es Estonian

Allergies As Association and is suitable for the whole family, even children. 1 13.90.

Beauty Tips T Freshen you your face during the day with Turblis Turbliss bioactive peat tonic. This can be applied directly to the face, fac ce, as well as over makeu p . Pe a t water w is a great gr reat moistturiser tu uriser and iss also natu ur urally rally antiinflamin matory, and willl also not clog pores. It’s also a great ointmentt for pimples. 11.99 The Baltic Guide tried ed this excellent tonic. It’s truly light and refreshing eshing on the face). ce). We must ust take extra caree of o our feet in sums mer, espee cially when w wearing open-toed shoes. A special foot soap will help keep feet in shape, by removing light dirt (as well as grass stains) and the crushed apricot stone help soften the soles and heels of your feet. The soap can be used daily. Try Jovely pedicure soap for happy feet 5.25 or Signe Seep foot soap 4.70. Pillerkaar specialises in Estonian-made cosmetics. Stop in to their shop in Solaris shopping centre ((Estonia pst 9, Tallinn). ■

Estonian Summer 2016 Travel tips and information for any type of holiday

An Infinite Sea

stonia is ready for summer. This year, Estonia has been named the year of maritime culture. The sea has brought people together and has shaped relations over the centuries. There is no shortage of events taking place this summer. Visit fascinating historical and modern sites. Though Estonia is small in size, each region is different, boasting a unique cultural heritage. Everyone will certainly find something of interest here. â&#x2013;

KOHTLA-JÄRVE

14 Northern Estonia

PALDISKI

NARVA TALLINN JÕHVi

RAKVERE

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

MUSTVEE

Top 5 Northern Estonia

Untouched Nature TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS CARL SARAP, MIKKO SAVIKKO, KRISTINA ERNITS, VLADIMIR SURMIN, EAS

You can familiarise yourself with the nort-

01 NARVA BOARDWALK The popular kilometer long walk runs along the border bridge. Access the promenade through the restored Victoria bastion casemates.

02 KOHTLA MINING MUSEUM In the renovated museum, one can see the start of mining in Estonia. Learn about the fascinating history of mining. It is hard to believe that in 2001, women still separated the rocks by hand and some 25 tons a day!

hern part of Estonia in many different ways. Raplamaa has the Toosikannu Zoo and in Kohtla-Nõmme at Adrenaator visitors can go off-roading in this mining area or paddle the channels in old quarries. In Ida-Virumaa, nature and the human environment are very different. The landscape has been influenced by industry and wars. The region still has genuine, preserved forests, marshes, and lake regions, as well as renewed mining around the area. Over the last few years travelling has grown, so one should take some time to visit the area and get to know it. If you have not been to the area before, you should start from Narva, which has a beautiful new beach boardwalk. Kuremäe monastery and Narva-Jõesuu’s waterfront are the main travel destinations in Ida-Virumaa. ■ Northern Estonia is rich in history.

03 SILLAMAE CULTURAL CENTRE In Soviet times, it was closed, thus preserving Sillamäe's renowned Stalinist architecture. Dozens of well-preserved crystal chandeliers can be seen. A bunker houses a museum about the Soviet era.

04 HARJUMAA COASTAL AREAS To the east and west of Tallinn are beautiful coastal beach areas. Immediately close to the capital, for example, are steep vertical bluffs. Easily accessible are Harku county's Türisalu bluffs, which are also near the popular Vääna-Jõesuu beach.

05 SÕBRALAAT 2016 Every second year, Finns and Estonians have organised a friendship fair based on shared mutual commerce. It will be held this year in Kunda, from 9-10 July.

Distances by road: ■ Tallinn – Jõhvi 173 km ■ Tallinn – Narva 214 km ■ Tallinn – Mustvee 174 km ■ Narva – Mustvee 115 km ■ Tallinn – Paldiski 46 km ■ Tallinn – Keila 26 km ■ Tallinn – Rapla 56 km

More information: www.northestonia.eu

How to get there. From Tallinn there are three trains to Jõhvi and Narva. Travel time to Narva is about 2.5 hours and the ticket costs €11.40. From Tapa there is also a connection to Tartu. Express buses travel from early morning until late at night, and the trip to Narva takes about three hours. The Paldiski electric train goes to Keila 14 times daily and to Rapla even more often. A ticket to Keila costs €2.40 and €3 to other cities.

15 Western Estonia's Islands

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6 Vormsi KÄRDLA Hiiumaa Muhu Saaremaa

PÄRNU

KURESSAARE Kihnu Ruhnu

In and around the islands.

Top 5 Western Estonia's Islands

The Western Estonian Islands are a diverse travel destination. TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The islands are full of nooks and crannies and

great sandy beaches to explore. There are also ports with a host of modern services. The islands are a great travel destination especially if you have your own boat. Port information can be found at www.sadamaregister.ee, which shows all the Estonian ports on maps (the page is in both Estonian and English). It is worth driving around the islands by car, with a bike or even on horseback. The latter, for example, can be arranged in Muhu at the Tihuse stables or in Saaremaa at Ratsukievari. The flavours of Hiiumaa are seen in the local food culture and during the many events organised during the summer season. One of the specialities is Hiiumaa garfish, which has a festival named after it (Tuulekala Festival at the end of May). The island's food culture can be found in many local cafes and restaurants, of which Pädaste Manor Alexander in Muhu has been chosen several times as the best restaurant on the island and in Estonia. Kuressaare’s newest restaurant is Mais, that in addition to good food, also offers cultural experiences. The restaurant is located at Tolli 7. ■

Distances by road: ■ Tallinn-Virtsu 135 km ■ Tallinn-Rohuküla 110 km ■ Tallinn-Munalaid 165 km The largest cities (population): ■ 13,300 Kuressaare (Saaremaa) ■ 3,100 Kärdla (Hiiumaa)

Western Estonia’s largest islands: ■ Saaremaa: About 2670 km2, population approximately 40,000 ■ Hiiumaa: Nearly 1,000 km2, population approximately 10,000. ■ Muhu: About 200 km2, population approximately 1,900. ■ Vormsi: About 93 km2, population of 400. ■ Kihnu: About 17 km2, population of 500. ■ Ruhnu: About 11 km2, population of 70.

01 LOCAL FLAVOURS Hiiumaa is celebrating local flavours this year and on the other islands there are also delicious local products to be tasted. On Saaremaa, the Pöide brewery on the island’s east coast produces beer in the traditional way. The brewery’s products are in such high demand that it will be expanding its operations to Kuressaare.

02 NATURE TRIPS

Estonian islands are almost all untouched nature reserves. The nature reserves and national parks are magnificent. The Vilsandi National Park is located on the west coast of Saaremaa and includes dozens of islands, including the island of Vilsandi.

03 RELAXING VACATIONS One feels like you are in an old film on the Estonian Islands. A hurried lifestyle seems to disappear, which creates a calming opportunity to relax. Relaxation can be enjoyed at spas, golf courses, cafés or under nature’s spell.

The Estonian islands have a checkered history, and it is worth visiting many of the museums on several of the islands. Historical beacons, churches, fortresses, windmills and other buildings are found in several places. No less interesting is the local culture, which has survived on many tiny islands, even to the extent that Kihnu culture is recognised by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

How to get there. You can get to Muhu and Saaremaa by ferry from Virtsu port (journey time 30 min). There is an elevated road connecting Muhu to Saaremaa. From the port of Rohuküla, ships depart for Hiiumaa with a journey time of 90 minutes to Heltermaa. Between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa - ferries are running on a regular basis between Triigi and Sõru (travel time 75 min). From Pärnu to Kihnu the journey takes 2.5 hours, from the Munalaiu port one can get to Kihnu and Ruhnu, and to Ruhnu from Saaremaa Roomassaare harbour. Beautiful scenery and fascinating history awaits you on the islands.

04 LIVING HISTORY

05 OPERA IN THE CASTLE The Saaremaa Opera Days will be held outdoors by the stunning Kuressaare Episcopal Castle from 25 - 31 July. The Wrocław Opera House will perform at the festivities and is planning to include Verdi’s Othello. The varied programme has something for children and includes many fine concerts.

16 Western Estonia

Top 5 Haapsalu

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

Pärnu & Haapsalu – Essential summertime destinations TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS KAUPO KALDA, ANDRES PUTTING, ANDREI CHERTKOV, TOOMAS TUUL, ILON'S WONDERLAND, EAS, MIKKO VIRTA, MATI KOSE, PÄRNU

01 HAAPSALU SUMMER STREET Haapsalu’s romantic beachside promenade is filled with people in summer. The beautiful Kuursaal is certainly worth a stop for a coffee or a meal. If you’re lucky, you might even see a polar bear in the water.

02 THE HISTORICAL BISHOP’S CASTLE The Bishop’s Castle makes up a large part of the skyline of Haapsalu. Located in the Old Town, visit the museum inside as well as the fascinating cathedral.

03 ILON’S WONDERLAND In summer, the children’s centre has an outdoor theatre and workshops. This theme park was made in honour of Ilon Wikland who illustrated Astrid Lindgren’s children’s books.

04 WHITE SANDY BEACHES Nõva, in Estonia’s most northwest corner, boasts beautiful white sandy beaches. It’s said that the beach sings because the sands are so fine. Nõva’s pine forests are a well-kept natural secret.

Haapsalu is also sometimes referred to as

the town of cafés. On Karja street in the Old Town, tens of them line the street, some of which are only open in summer. Haapsalu is a great family holiday destination. The town is peaceful in summer, save for the times that there are larger events on. Explore this small town on bicycle, which you can rent in town. The Peetri train drives through the streets and will take you past all the town’s top attractions. The Bishop’s Castle and the African Beach game parks are fun for the youngest members of the family. The steamship Kallis Mari will also be sailing this year. The south western beach town of Pärnu is a

popular destination, even for locals. Readers of the www.reisidiilid.ee website chose Pärnu as the best family holiday destination, and only second as the best holiday spot after Barcelona. There are many reasons to go to Pärnu. For some, it is a city of parks and greenery and being outdoors for leisurely activities, and for others, vibrant cultural

Haapsalu's Kuursaal offers a stunning view over the water.

Top 5 Pärnu

Distances by road: ■ Tallinn- Pärnu 135 km ■ Tallinn-Haapsalu 100 km The largest cities (population): ■ Haapsalu: 11,000 ■ Lihula: 2500 ■ Pärnu 43,000

programs. Pärnu’s long sandy coastline is impressive even those who have visited many times. Pärnu's old market will be undergoing renovations for about 8 months but will be open occasionally in summer. The plan is to re-

open the market in autumn, larger than ever. Good news for market goers, on Thursdays from 16-18 in front of Pärnu Keskus local food producers in Pärnu county will be selling their goods. This includes eggs, honey, jams, preserves, dairy products and fresh fish. For active holidaymakers, there is the Valgeranna Adventure Park, Audru Ring Auto24 race track, many very luxurious spas, surf beach and a central skatepark. ■

01 ESTONIA'S FAVOURITE BEACH Good things are free. The sun, the sea, and the beach sand don't cost anything. Estonia's most popular beach on a beautiful summer day may have as many as 30,000 sun worshipers.

02 FUNCTIONALISTIC BUILDINGS

It’s thanks to architect Olev Siinmaa that Pärnu looks the way it does. The mud baths, Rannahoone and the Rannahotell are excellent examples.

03 THE COUNTRYSIDE CALLS If the noise in Pärnu bothers you, go to the countryside. Go towards the seaside village of Kabli, on the shore of historical Tori River or visit Varbla's sandy beaches.

04 SUMMER EVENTS

Pärnu's cultural scene is bustling throughout the summer. Events worthy of mention are the Hanseatic Days (1-3 July), the city festival Augustiunetus (13 August), the annual exhibition Man and Woman art exhibition (29 May - 4 September), and the major electronic music event Weekend Festival Baltic (4-7 August).

05 MATSALU NATIONAL PARK From Haapsalu it’s just a quick trip to Matsalu, one of Europe’s best birdwatching sites with views over the nests of sea beach and the sea. May is one of the best months for birdwatching and in June, see interesting plant species, including wild orchids.

05 NATURE TRAILS Nature can be appreciated in the city as well. Pärnu boasts some of the best trails. Or if you want, escape to the beautiful Soomaa National Park, about an hour's drive from Pärnu.

Haapsalu and Läänemaa Museums www.salm.ee

Italian

Restaurant and Pizzeria

Haapsalu Town Hall

Railway and Communications Museum

Kooli 2, Haapsalu Tel. +372 473 7065 info@salm.ee

Raudtee 2, Haapsalu Tel. +372 4734574 raudtee@salm.ee

“Peetrike” Tourist Train

Ants Laikmaa Home Museum

Tel. +372 473 4574; raudtee@salm.ee

Kadarpiku village, Lääne-Nigula Parish Tel. +372 472 9756 • laikmaa@salm.ee

“Kallis Mari” Steam Ship Tel. +372 5396 1396

Open M-Th 11.30-23.00 F,Sa11.30-24.00, Su 12.00-23.00

Authentic Italian food prepared by our Italian chefs. - Our pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven. - Delicious pasta that melts in your mouth. - Located in the heart of Tartu. - A cosy summer terrace. - WiFi

Ilon’s Wonderland

Haapsalu Episcopal Castle

Kooli 5, Haapsalu Tel. +372 5836 2806 imedemaa@salm.ee

Lossiplats 3, Haapsalu Tel. +372 518 4664 linnus@salm.ee

Kompanii 10, Tartu Tel. +372 7407 545 www.ladolcevita.ee

Estonia’s first smart hotel! 1h – 2.50 EUR; 3-6h – 7.50 EUR 24h – 10 EUR 1h – 5 EUR; 3-6h – 13 EUR 24h – 18 EUR

HOTEL RESTAURANT

BEAUTY SALON MINI-SPA Restaurant Postmark Mon–Sat 12–22, Sun 12–18

Did you know that Estonia has

245 museums? Read The Baltic Guide to learn more about Estonia.

www.balticguide.ee

Beauty Salon Tue-Thu 10-18 Fri-Sat 10-20 Sun, Mon closed Mini-Spa Mon-Sun 18-22 Jüri 38a, Võru • Tel. +372 332 2221 • info@georgihotell.ee www.georgihotell.ee

18 Southern Estonia

TALLINN

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VILJANDI PÕLVA

VÄRSKA VALGA

Top 5 Southern Estonia

VÕRU

Familiar Landscape The rolling hills of southern Estonia make up a different landscape than that of the rest of the country. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS REIGO JÕE, TOOMAS TUUL, HOTEL GEORGI, REMO SAVISAAR, MAREK METSLAID

Viljandimaa has large fields, but south of

01 VILJANDI FOLK MUSIC FESTIVAL Now in its 24th year, this is an event for the whole family. The programme includes children’s music, spiritual music, dance music and folk rock. This year’s theme is women’s voice.

02 OBINITSA

Last year, the Finno-Ugric cultural capital city in Setomaa celebrated its culture. This summer from 30 June to 10 July enjoy the play Obinitsa, a Tartu Vanemuise production.

03 GEORG HOTEL In Võru a modern hotel has opened in the former post office building. The historical architecture blends beautifully with modern technology. Services include a mini spa and a beauty salon.

Tartu the landscape changes to be more hilly and spotted with lakes. Some of the world’s largest pines grow in Veriora county in Põlvamaa. One of the tallest of the giants is 46.6 m high and over 200 years old. Põlvamaa’s neighbour is Võrumaa whose smoke sauna culture is recognised

Distances by road: ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Tallinn-Viljandi 154 km Tartu-Viljandi 78 km Pärnu-Viljandi 86 km Tallinn-Võru 257 km Tallinn-Valga 246 km Võru-Valga 68 km Võru-Viljandi 120 km Viljandi-Valga 80 km

on Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Near the town of Võru is the Mooska farm which is known for its smoke sauna and smoked meats. Although Otepää’s hilly areas are suitable for winter sports, it also offers activities for the whole family in the summer like adventure parks. Estonia’s Valga and Latvia’s Valka are twin towns.The history of the region relates to the squad of Finnish volunteers Põhja Pojad (Northern Sons) that fought in the 1919 Battle of Paju with Estonians. ■

How to get there? A train from Tallinn to Viljandi takes about 2.5 hours and costs €8.90. The train travels four times a day. Rapid bus lines travel the route as quickly and the fare is a very favorable €5. Buses from Tallinn to Võru take about 4 hours and ticket prices start at €10.

04 MIDSUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATIONS The Pühajärve Midsummer solstice bonfire in 2016. In Otepää the event hosts international and local artists including Gigi D’Agostino. In Setoma the summer solstice is celebrated 22 June at Mikitamäe and 23 June at Värska. The Viljandi bonfire will be lit on the beach at 20.00 on 23 June

05 LÜÜBNITSA FISH AND ONION FAIR On the last weekend of August in Põlvamaa one can buy traditionally grown onions and garlic for winter use.

Experience the unique smoke sauna in Southern Estonia.

19 Tartu

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

TARTU

Top 5 Tartu 01 TARTU’S OLD TOWN New cafés in Tartu’s Old Town have sprouted like flowers after the rain. The city’s best cakes and coffee, as well as terraces can certainly be found here. The Old Town is an excursion for the whole family. Visit places like Toomemägi (Dome Hill), the Toy Museum, and of course the university’s main building. The statue of kissing students in the Town Hall Square is a symbol of the city.

02 ESTONIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM AND TARTU’S MUSEUMS Tartu is known for its many museums, including the Tartu University Museum, Tartu City Museum, and the biggest science centre in the Baltics, AHHAA. The Estonian National Museum will open in its new location in autumn as one of the most modern in the north. Its permanent exhibitions will discuss Estonians and Finno-Ugric cultures. The museum is built on the Raadi property and the former Soviet Raadi airport. The museum is approximately 40,000 square metres in size. www.ahhaa.ee www.erm.ee/et/Kylasta/Raadi

Tartu Blooms in Summer Tartu is a great stop for a weekend or longer holiday. TEXT LAURA KOIVISTO, PHOTOS LIINA LAURIKAINEN, ARE TRALLA, JAAK NILSON, KERLY ILVES

Distance: ■ Tallinn-Tartu 185 km

Tartu is known for its university and his-

torical significance. Wander the streets of the Old Town in the sun and then stop for a coffee in a café. Enjoy some of the many cultural events taking place and the exciting nightlife. Visit the Tartu Adventure Park and climb high among the trees. Tartu is also known for its museums. There are close to 20 museums so you are sure to find something for every taste. The Tartu University Museum is completely new where you will see many interesting exhibits. Other points of interest include the Observatory,

Population: ■ Approximately 99,000 More information: www.visittartu.com

Botanical Gardens and the historical Dome Church. ■

03 ST PAUL’S CHURCH OF TARTU The stunning St Paul’s Church is Estonia’s only Art Nouveau church, which was designed by Finnish-American architect Eliel Saarinen. The beautiful building is a unique part of Tartu’s skyline. You can take a guided tour of the church. http://tartupauluse.ee/for-guests

How to get there 04 THE WOODEN HOUSES OF SUPILINN AND KARLOVA

A trip from Tallinn to Tartu lasts 2 hours by train and 2.5 hours by bus. We recommend buying your tickets in advance.

Walking among the wooden houses in Supilinn and Karlova, you get the feeling you’ve stepped back in time, with the smell of wood fire coming from the chimneys. The Bohemian area of Supilinn is closest to the city centre and is known by the funny names of the streets like Herne (pea), Kartuli (potato), and Oa (bean). It’s also worth a visit to Karlova where you can see the Aparaaditehas and many great cafés.

05 EMAJÕGI RIVER The summer has officially started when gardeners come to plant flowers on the banks of the Emajõgi River. Enjoy a picnic and watch the boats pass by. You can also ride along the river with the Jõmmu barge or hire a canoe.

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U N E 2 0 1 6

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn). Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

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sightseeing

21 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

museum

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Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.3

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/ tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-andkgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian. ■ Art Museums & Galleries

See the sights of Tallinn on a bike.

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Seeing the Sights We look at alternative ways of getting around. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, STINA KASE

Whether you’re in Tallinn for a

shorter stay or a longer tour, you’ll probably want to fit in as much as you can. While public transport is relatively easy-touse and pretty tourist friendly, a tour on one of the big red buses, like those operated by City Tour (www.citytour.ee) are a great way to get from one end of town to the other while seeing some of the most important sights. This is a great option if you’re only in town for a day. If you’d prefer to stay a bit more active, then why not hire a bike

for the day and explore the city on your own. If you’re afraid of getting lost, then you can try a guided bicycle tour with City Bike. They offer bike rental, self-guided tours, and guided tours through Tallinn. Check out their website for a full listing of prices, events, and tour ideas: www.citybike.ee Then let’s not forget the Segway...while this writer is a bit too shy to try it herself, Segways are great way to see the city sights. Blue Super Segway in Tallinn’s Old Town (Viru 7, Tallinn Old Town h3) rent Segways, but also organises guided tours. Find out more at: www.bluesupersegway.ee ■

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJUUNNEE 22001166

23 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

From the driver

4 5

J. Poska

KADRIORG

Ädala

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Linnahall Port

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

ÜLEMISTE

VäikePae Paala

Majaka põik

E-tickets

Marja Tedre

Airport

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

ÕISMÄE

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

Sääse

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

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■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

6* From June until September 2016 trams 1 and 2 will not be running due to roadworks. Bus 52 will offer an alternate route between Kopli-Hobujaama.

■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJUUNNEE 22001166

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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