The Baltic Guide ENG February 2017 by The Baltic Guide

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA

Otepää – Snowy fun in Estonia’s winter capital Café Culture – A guide to Tallinn’s cosiest spots Mon Repos – The reincarnation of a celebrated restaurant Lootsi Shopping Centre – Activities for the whole family

Sensational Jazz Newcomer

The Trump Conception Nightlife – Where to keep warm on cold nights

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Your free guide to Estonia

ENGLISH EDITION

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 7

Winter is in full swing

hile winter is far from over and it will still be some time before we see any signs of spring, we can take comfort in the fact that the days are slowly getting longer and there is still plenty to do in the city. Tallinn’s picturesque medieval Old Town streets (when covered in snow) are lovely. There are plenty of cosy cafés to warm up in too. Those interested in skiing can take part in the annual Tartu Marathon. Otherwise, practice your skiing at one of the many parks in and around Tallinn. Skate in Tallinn’s Old Town on Harju Street, or just simply take in the wintry sights. Falling in February this year is Shrove Tuesday (28

February), where Estonians take to the hills for an afternoon of sledding, followed by pea soup and Lenten buns. The 24th of February marks Estonian Independence Day, marking 99 years since the Estonian Declaration of Independence. The occasion is marked annually with the presidential reception and a concert, held in different cities each year. The president gives a speech, which is broadcast live on television, and viewers also enjoy the Amusingly named “Penguin Parade,” of the who’s who of Estonia arriving at the reception. Happy travels!

Contents 3 editorial

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

restaurants

February Highlights

4-5 Cosy cafés in Tallinn Restaurant news Wolt - The new way to order food A little bit of France in Tallinn at Café Lyon 6 Mon Repos Leib Resto & Aed

01 FOR TRUE METAL FANS The Swedish heavy metal band Sabaton will perform in Tallinn on 25th February at Kultuurikatel. The German band Accept will also play. Sabaton’s music often talks about wars and conflict, like the First and Second World Wars.

02 TARTU SKI MARATHON On 26th February, the 44th annual Tartu Marathon will bring about 100,000 skiers to southern Estonia. If the full marathon of 63 km seems to long, then you can try 16 km or 31 km trails. There is a trail for children as well.

03 CLASSICAL MUSIC FOR WINTER The Tallinn Winter Festival (3-11 February) offers many great classical music concerts in different venues throughout the city. Proceeds from the festival will go towards supporting young talented Estonian musicians.

04 INDULGENCE IN TARTU In February you can try different special menus at even better special prices. Maitsev Tartu will include 14 restaurants offering three-course meals for only €19. You can post about your favourite menus on the event’s web pages. The best menu will be announced in March.

this month 8,10 beauty 11 day trip: Otepää 12-13 interview: Janno Trump February Events 14-15 shopping 16-17 nightlife 18 museum: Viking Era Treasures from Estonia at the Estonian Maritime Museum 19-22 visitor information and maps 23 Top 9 things to see and do in Tallinn

05 ESTONIA CELEBRATES INDEPENDANCE

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Janno Trump Photo: Andrei Chertkov

FEBRUARY 2017

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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The 24th of February marks 99 years since Estonia first got its independance. Celebrations will include all kinds of special events throughout the country. The day begins with the raising of the flag at Tallinn’s Pikk Hermann tower. The day ends with the president’s reception, where Estonia’s new president Kersti Kaljulaid will greet guests for the first time.

restaurants

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RESTAURANT NEWS From 14 February to 24 February the Old Town Food Festival

will take place for the second year. Chefs from six of the Old Town’s top restaurants will take part in the competition to create dishes from different raw ingredients chosen by the public. Restaurants taking part this year will be: Dominic, Leib Resto & Aed, DOM, Olde Hansa, Kaerajaan and Le Chateau. During the festival you can go and taste the creations and vote for your favourite dishes. Each meal from the festival’s menu costs 23. Bookings are a must. More information: https://www.facebook.com/Vanalinna-Toidufestival-941075792636552/ A new Mexican style restaurant/nightclub Santa Fe opened on Sauna Street in the Old Town. The menu features everything from tacos to fajitas to pizza. Prices are reasonable and our nachos came with a free drink. Sauna 10, Tallinn Old Town While not yet open by the time this issue went to print, everyone is eagerly awaiting the opening of Tallinn’s newest Thai restaurant Nok Nok in the Old Town. The restaurant will be run by Tallink. In addition to the restaurant, Nok Nok will also offer cooking classes and eventually a small Thai food shop as well. Address to be announced. The 7th annual Estonian Sommelier Association Wine Fair

will be taking place from 9-10 February in Tallinn’s Kultuurikatel. Around 50 businesses will be promoting great products and many well-known people from the wine industry will also be attendance. Tickets are available from Piletilevi. More information: http://kultuurikatel.ee/sundmused/veinimess/ Visit Faehlmanni kohvik for nice selection of both European and Asian dishes or just pop in for a quick coffee and slice of cake. Faehlmanni 18, Tallinn Nearby in Kadriorg, there is also the new wine store and restaurant Enoteca Lucca. Enjoy Italian dishes in a cosy atmosphere and knowledgeable staff to help you choose a great bottle from their shop. Terase 16, Tallinn Outside of Tallinn in Tartu, the new locally focused takeaway Peipsimaa Maitseelamused opened its door this past autumn. The takeaway uses local products, most of which come from nearby Peipsi Lake, for its fish and chips, burgers, and other great dishes. Riia 3, Tartu Last but not least, the Estonian Food Museum opened a café. The museum also organises exhibitions about Estonian cuisine, along with workshops of Estonian food. Worth a visit for anyone who wants to learn more about Estonian cuisine. Masina 20, Tallinn. ■

A little taste of France in Tallinn french TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Those that have visited France

know just how good a true croissant can be, well really any French pastry. The key is in using the proper ingredients and Café Lyon has gone the extra mile to bring these to us here in Tallinn. Everything at Café Lyon is made from scratch right there in the restaurant. When they

Enjoy freshly baked pastries or a meal at Café Lyon.

began making the pastry for the croissants, then it became clear that special butter was needed to ensure a flaky end result. Estonian butter just wasn’t suitable for this. They have also brought in a special oven from France. But it’s not just about bringing the right ingredients from France. Café Lyon’s chef and head baker visited France last spring to learn firsthand from the experts at three different bakeries. In addition to the wonderful flaky and buttery pastries, Café Lyon also offers an à la carte

menu. They have two locations offering slightly varied menus, so it’s worth a trip to check out both if you have time. Last year Café Lyon won the local Silverspoon award for best café. ■

Location Café Lyon Viru Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2 (Tammsaare park side) Café Lyon & Boulangerie Meistri 22, Tallinn

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restaurants

Take a step back in time at Energia.

Have brunch at Klaus.

Café Culture Where to warm up on a cold day. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

There’s nothing better than a good

bowl of soup or a great cup of coffee on a cold winter’s day. Here are a few local favourites to try while in town.

Klaus Kohvik Kalasadama 8, Tallinn a2

Sometimes you’re in the mood for some good, simple food and Klaus is just the place to get it. Daily lunch specials during the week offer a soup and main. Even better they have a fabulous brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Maismokk Pikk 16, Tallinn Old Town g2

Maiasmokk has great pastries and an even better interior. The rooms have been used as a café for almost 200 years! Tables are small like in old-time Parisian cafés. The walls are covered

with wood and mirrors, originating from its heyday when the place was called Stude. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen.

Take a trip out to Kadriorg for some great food at Nop.

Björn Espresso Bar Maakri 28, Tallinn b2

If you’re into modern design and great coffee made by people that actually know how to make it, look no further than Björn Espresso Bar. And if that weren’t enough, later in the day they prepare great cocktails too.

Kohvik August Väike-karja 5, Tallinn Old Town i2

Excellent coffee, delicious pastries, and creative meals are what’s on the menu at August. The interior is a mix of modern and retro where you can come for lunch, dinner or just cocktails in the evening.

NOP

Energia Kohvik

Köleri 1, Tallinn a4

Kaubamaja 4, Tallinn

If you want to venture out of the Old Town to see a different neighbourhood, take the tram to NOP in Kadriorg, a cosy organic café and food shop just off of Narva mnt. The shop sells local and speciality products to take home, and offers a delicious selection of meals and breakfasts and dinners to enjoy in the café.

Walking into the Energia Café you are immediately taken back in time. Established in 1964, this café is located next to Kaubamaja department store and has served hungry Tallinners for decades now. The menu has almost remained the same, just like its clientele.

Wolt – the app for all things food TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

For anyone who's lived in Tallinn,

you know what a nightmare food delivery can be. While it’s fun to go out and eat, sometimes you just want to stay in with a plate of your favourite takeaway. The Wolt app has changed all of that and changed the dining scene in Tallinn. Wolt began in Finland and is now available in Tallinn and

Stockholm too, with the list of participating restaurants growing every day. So how does it work? We decided to try it out to see what all the fuss was about. You download the app onto your phone or visit the website wolt.com where you can peruse the restaurants serving food at the moment. It shows you the menu and the approximate waiting time for delivery. You choose what you want and click

“Order” and the amount is automatically debited from the card you saved on the app. So there’s no fussing with cash and card payments. Sometimes the wait times can be a bit long, so Wolt also offers the option to go and pick up your order yourself, which is fine in a city like Tallinn where almost everything is walking distance. The verdict - would we use it again? Most definitely! ■

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restaurants

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Reinventing the Classics Mon Repos breathes new life into a historical villa.

modern TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS MON REPOS, LAURI LAAN

Villa Mon Repos is not an ordinary

The paté with green apple jelly is based off a recipe from the 15th century.

house. Built originally as a residence, in 1921 it was turned into a restaurant-casino by the name of Mon Repos. With its top quality cabaret, it wasn’t long before it became very popular. After many years of neglect, the villa was completely renovated in 2016 and Mon Repos was opened once again. The modern interior has retained as many of the original historical details as possible. Upon entering you are greeted in the foyer, which opens into the main dining room with intimate tables set throughout the space. Upstairs the chef ’s degustation menu can be enjoyed. Mon Repos’ chef Vladislav Djatšuk (from Tchaikovsky) has put great care into developing a menu that reflects the restaurant’s history, but also modern times. Some of the menu items have references to the year and the cookbook the original recipes came from, all presented with a

The black angus fillet is soft and flavourful, served with baked cauliflower, bone marrow and balsamic dressing.

modern twist. The paté with green apple jelly is an example of this, a recipe originally from the 15th century, but served in the shape of a little green apple. To start the grilled romaine salad is served with bone marrow, walnut and shallot vinaigrette and caramelised onion hollandaise. The warm, yet crisp lettuce leaves are lightly charred balancing well with the richness of the two dressings. A vegan version of the dish is served with pomegranate instead of the bone marrow. The main dishes look intrigu-ing. But often a good test of thee kitchen is to order the steak and d Mon Repos does not disappoint.. The black angus fillet is soft and d flavourful, served with baked d

cauliflower, bone marrow and balsamic dressing. Service is friendly and professional, but most importantly knowledgeable. The wine list presents some interesting wines by the glass or bottle that the staff are more than capable of helping you choose something to drink with your meal. ■

Location Mon Repos p Narva mnt 92, Tallinn a4 --------------------Appetisers: €7–€12 Mains: €12–€20 Dessert: €5–7 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Simple Pleasures local TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Leib Resto & Aed is what happens

when a chef and sommelier get together and open a restaurant. It’s about fresh, local, simple, and honest cooking. Good food doesn’t need to be pretentious. We caught up with Kristjan Peäske (the sommelier in the duo) to talk about local food, life in the restaurant business, and how to keep it simple. Leib Resto & Aed works closely with small local organic farms, butchers, and fishermen. The result has been continued success. “Life in a restaurant is constantly developing. For starters, Janno and I are definitely more relaxed and have a clear vision. The way we train our staff changes every year - in the beginning it was about figuring out how to get everyone to work together,

but today it’s about how we can all grow as a team and develop our skills, which also includes going abroad for training”, explains Peäske. Leib is successful because they haven’t compromised their vision to serve seasonal local food and certainly never compromise quality. While local cooking has become quite trendy, Peäske says that it’s important to pay attention to the trends, but at the same time, make them your own. The menu at Leib is short, changes seasonally and changes often. “You can’t eat fresh tomatoes in winter”, says Peäske, “they just have no taste”. It’s not just the food that is locally inspired at Leib. Grapes don’t really grow in Estonia, yet, but there are plenty of other things Estonians do well in the department. Leib makes some of their own craft beer and schnapps, which can be paired to any dish instead of wine. Peäske encourages you to try some of

their homemade brews, but the wine list is also impressive, with a very eclectic mix of wines by the glass or bottle. Since opening Leib, Peäske also opened Umami together with his partner Janno Lepik. “Leib focuses solely on local flavours, whereas at Umami we get to play a little to combine local and international, in particular with Asian influences”. When asked if there are plans to open a third restaurant, Peäske simply smiles and says, time will tell. ■

Leib's dishes use only seasonal and locally sourced ingredients.

Location Leib Resto & Aed Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3 --------------------Appetisers: €6.50–€12 Mains: €13–€22 Dessert: €6–7 ---------------------

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Leib's cosy rooms are perfect for groups.

IRISH COFFEE AND WHITE RUSSIAN

€5

Satumaa offers Tallinn’s best

www.pizzabuffet.ee

Gonsio

Open daily 11-21, Gonsiori 10, about 150 m from Viru Keskus Shopping Centre.

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet! www.balticguide.ee

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

silla

Kim +372 54 569 193 Bookings for private events available

Kivi

Open Sunday - Tuesday 18.00-02.00 Wednesday to Friday 18.00-04.00 and Saturday 15.00-04.00

Maneezh i

We are located in the heart of the Old Town on the main street Viru 4 (courtyard)

A. Laikmaa

nia

A. Laikmaa

Viru keskus Kaubamaja

We have about 36 000 songs in Finnish and English

€ 2.90 price reg.

The Buffet price includes: juicy pizzas, a rich salad bar, Asian dishes, chicken wings, French fries, sausages and meatballs. And, of course, an unlimited amount of soft drinks. Dessert buffet now included in the price.

KARAOKE.

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Finnish and International Karaoke Bar, located at Viru 4 (Old Town) in the heart of Tallinn. Originally founded in Helsinki in 1999

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FEBRUARY OFFER:

All you can eat and drink! Buffet €9.90.

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beauty

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Natural Relaxation Maavägised offers traditional health services. TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The word leveraxe sounds a little

intimidating. A Finnish-designed soup spoon-sized tool is in fact not so scary, as it helps repair a person’s well-being. Maavägised, a salon located in Tallinn’s Old Town is specialised in traditional Estonian health and medical traditions, among which is cuping therapy. Of the salon’s procedures, the most popular are the honey massage and sauna procedures. The salon’s owner Ene Lill tells us that during the honey massage, honey is massaged into the skin with special movements. None of the procedures are painful, though the honey massage is pleasantly strong, according to Lill. Kristiina Valper, the other owner of Maavägised adds that the honey massage is excellent for scar treatment. It also helps reduce cellulite. The salon’s sauna procedures are

made up of different stages. A sauna session that lasts a couple of hours includes whipping with birch branches, skin exfoliation, and a light massage. The sauna is

Traditional Estonian massage is done with clothes on.

visited three times. The sauna has a wood burning stove. If massages and sauna are too familiar, then cupping therapy or leech therapy might be worth trying.

Cupping therapy can be done with dry cups, without small incisions being made. Traditionally, small incisions are made in the skin that don’t leave any scars. “Cupping therapy can be used for concrete health problems or just for relaxation”, explains Lill. Leech therapy is usually done for people with health problems, but also for relaxation and the number of leeches is chosen according to someone’s weight. The first visit starts with one leech and then more are added depending on how it feels. This procedure can be done many months in a row. ■

Location Whipping with birch branches is an important part of going to the sauna. The whips are made e from birch branches or oak.

Dry cupping is done with glass cups.

The benefits of Curcume’s turmeric honey Curcume wanted to combine dif-

ferent and powerful natural ingredients from different countries into the same jar to create something delicious. Organic Estonian honey, black pepper and the highly beneficial turmeric used in Indian ayurveda treatment is the result.

Curcume uses curcuminfilled turmeric powder (curcumin content 10-45), whereas the spice sold in shops contains only 1-3 curcumin. To promote the absorption of curcumin, we mix it with black pepper. Black pepper contains the piperine alkaloid, which

improves the benefits of curcumin by 2000. Read more about the health benefits of curcumin and turmeric at www.curcumin.life More information about the product and stockists can be found at www.flowene.com ■

Maavägised, Niguliste 8, Tallinn Old Town i1

NEW – The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia. An exhibition of artisan. Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn

www.folkart.ee

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia. Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

best collection of designer eyewear in Tallinn

Eyewear boutique

+372 631 1871 viuu.ee

Telliskivi 60, Tallinn Telliskivi Creative City

New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel.

Be creative and make your ideas come to life! Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies. • Pearls, semi-precious stones • Beads • Jewellery accessories • Gift boxes • Yarns • Knitting supplies • Embroidery supplies • Embroidery floss • Art supplies • Oil and acrylic paints • Children’s crafts • Soap-making supplies • Candle-making supplies • School supplies • School bags • Office supplies • Clay • and much more.

Entrance through the underpass!

Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.

day

Otepää, Estonia’s Winter It’s worth a trip outside of Tallinn to Otepää and its neighbouring village, Pühajärve in the

Text Kristina Lupp, Stuart Garlick, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Otepää is a picture-postcard little

village with lovely walking routes all around, and a deep, dense forest in which to be lost with your thoughts. However the attentiongrabber for most tourists is Vaike Munamägi, the second tallest hill in Estonia. The tallest, Suur Manamägi is located about an hour’s drive south from Otepää. Whether you’re an experienced skier looking for some piste action in the Baltics, or a newbie wanting a hill that isn’t the Black Run on which to learn your craft, there’s a reason to visit the two Egg Hills, as they are known in

English. And even if winter sports are not your thing, south Estonia’s flatness means you can see for miles all around when you’re at the top. If you want a bit of a challenge, have a go at the Kekkose Ski Trail (a 14 km run named in honour of the visit, from the then Finnish president Urho Kekkose’s visit to Kääriku to ski), one of the country’s most challenging crosscountry trails. Stay in the Pühajärve Spa Hotel, a three-star destination which overlooks the enormous lake, which of course is completely frozen in winter. The spa’s café gives truly spectacular panoramic views of the lake, the hills and surrounds. Ensconced in your

trip

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Recommended by locals: n Tammuri Talu – Tammuri

Capital very southeastern corner of Estonia.

forest kingdom, you’ll finally be able to forget all your daily working troubles. The food is pretty decent local fare, and certainly fills you up before or after a long day’s strolling in the gorgeous countryside. There is a pub down below for simpler tastes and an a la carte restaurant on the main floor of the former manor house. The spa’s jewel is the outstanding swimming pool designed by one of Estonia’s master architects Andres Alver. The pool’s main structure is engineered wood glulam complemented with the use of locally produced birch plywood. Swimming there is certainly a must on any Estonian travel bucket list. n

How to get there: We recommend taking a car, although it’s perfectly possible to go there by bus - just jump on the Tallinn to Tartu express, then take a connecting service to Otepää. www.tpilet.ee There are train connections from Tallinn-Tartu-Palupera. Palupera is about 20 km from Otepää and from there you can take a taxi which should be no more than €20. Please note: most taxis do not accept card payment. Train tickets: www.elron.ee Otepää Taxi: 1200

Farm is about as far away as you can get from Tallinn in Southern Estonia. This one-man restaurant is owned by chef Erki Saar who takes groups by booking only, preparing creative meals and offering wine to match. Mäha village, Otepää, Valgamaa Anni Butiik - This is your onestop-shop for local handicrafts and souvenirs. Beautiful knitted gloves and socks line the walls, along with other linens and textiles. Pühajärve tee 2, Otepää GMP Boutique Hotel – Book a stay or just come and enjoy a gourmet meal at their restaurant, voted among Estonia’s 50 Best. This boutique hotel offers spectacular views over Lake Pühajärve. Tennisevälja 1, Otepää Snow Tubing – Along with skiing, snow tubing is another reason to visit Otepää. There are a few places to go, like Ansomägi that boasts snowtubing runs as long as 400 metres. Tartu Marathon – Did you know that Otepää is the start for the annual Tartu Marathon? Thousands of cross-country skiers gather here every February for one of the biggest sports events of the year.

eve

12 Events in Estonia recommended by culture.ee

10th Tallinn winter festival

Trump Conception’s

At Tallinn Winter Festival,

Photo: culture.ee

Janno Trump: Old Enough and Good Enough

and Lovro Pogorelich (piano, Croatia). The concerts of the festival take place in Tallinn Town Hall, Hopner house, the hall of Tallinn Philharmonics (House of the Brotherhood of Blackheads), Charles’ Church and Swedish St. Michael’s Church. ■

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Trump Conception is one of the

Time: 3.–11.02.2017 Location: Various locations in Tallinn

Photo: Madis Ots

superb guest artists from abroad as well as outstanding and recognised Estonian musicians, with the Pille Lill Music Fund has collaborated consistently for over ten years, will give unforgettable concerts. This year the performers are: Arete Teemets (soprano), Andrei Bogatš (tenor), Piia Paemurru (piano), Virgo Veldi (saxophone), Ralf Taal (piano), Kristina Kriit (violin), Atlan Karp (baritone), Neeme Ots (trumpet), Tiia Tenno (organ), String orchestra from the Estonian Academy of Music and Theatre, teachers prof. Mari TampereBezrodny and prof. Peeter Paemurru, evening conductor Pille Lill, Sigrid KuulmannMartin (violin), Andreas Lend (cello), Irina Zahharenkova (piano), Madis Kari (clarinet), Andreas Lend (cello), Marko Martin (piano), Kristina Fialová (viola, Czech Republic), Irina Zahharenkova (piano)

Comics exhibition “Grey Area” The exhibition “Grey Area“

introduces the more avantgarde trends in Estonian contemporary comic art. Twenty-first century Estonian comic art are hard to define or describe since most of them have lost their connection to their traditional newspaper roots. In Estonian contemporary culture, comic art play a marginal role that seems to exist in a bizarre quasi-state without its own mainstream, recognisable image or specific and stable outputs. In a weird way, this vagueness seems to be leading Estonian comic art in a positive direction, which is evident in the artistic quality

of the new works, as well as in the constant influx of fresh and talented artists. Participating artists and groups: Edvin Aedma, AW (Liisa Kruusmägi and Janno Pikkat), Jüri Kask, Liisa Kivimäe, Peeter Krosmann, Ivar Laus, Triinu Lille, Kristel Maamägi, Marko Mäetamm, Ats Nukki, Madis Ots, Darja Rattik, Lilli-Krõõt Repnau, Anna Ring, Stella Salumaa, Elina Sildre, Joonas Sildre and Veiko Tammjärv, curator: Mari Laaniste. ■ Time: Exhibition is open until the 26th of March. Location: Tartu Art Museum (Raekoja plats 18, Tartu)

most talented jazz collectives in Estonia right now, and is just beginning to branch out internationally on the back of the ten-piece band’s debut album, called One, which radiates no-nonsense, good-time vibes and is a must-listen. 26 yearold bandleader Janno Trump sat down with the Baltic Guide to talk through the new release, the Estonian jazz scene, and that famous (unrelated) namesake. First of all, Trump cleared the elephant in the room - sharing a surname with the controversial new President of the United States. “We considered changing the name, but we’ve already released the album, so I don’t know... There are so many aspects to this, and right now I don’t want to change the name, but we’ve got two festival gigs coming up in Latvia and Lithuania in the summer, and I can imagine how it looks to someone who doesn’t know the band and doesn’t live in Estonia. A friend told me there’s no bad publicity, and maybe that’s right.” “I just felt something - my own thing - was missing,” Trump says, explaining why he formed The

Trump Conception in 2015 with a group of his friends. “There’s only one chance. At that point I’d written some tunes, but I didn’t know what lineup would play them. There was one particular tune that I really liked, and which made me think the big band was the right way to put it out there. All of a sudden there were seven or eight tracks, and it grew from there.” The band was picked from various sources by Trump. “With some of the guys, we used to play together at the Georg Otsa School, and then with others, I had the opportunity to play in bands with them. When it came to recording these tunes, I knew exactly who I wanted to call. I know their pros, cons and so on so well that I’m not going to write something that doesn’t play to their strengths. For all of us, our musical journeys have met at some point in life, and that gives us an understanding of where we’re coming from musically.” “The recording was in separate sessions - we recorded the rhythm section in Latvia, drums, bass guitar, electric guitar and piano, then step-by-step we recorded horns, and percussion. There were so

many sessions because there’s really so much to record, and there’s also a lot of work to do after the sessions. It takes a long time.” However, Trump did not want a pris-

tine product, but an example of his band as a living, breathing collective. “Everybody wants to get his or her album to be as clear as possible, but there’s a danger that if it’s too clean, it’s boring. You can’t repair everything. I know there are some mistakes on that recording, but I didn’t want to repair everything, because it’s good when the listener wonders from time-to-time if that was a mistake or intended.” There were several key inspirations for the positive, sunny sound of the album. “Jaco Pastorius, a bass player, made some phenomenal recordings, and I think he’s number one for me. Pat Metheny, a guitar player, another jazz guy, and Richard Bona, a bass player, they’re all major influences for me. In Estonia, my own teachers in the Otsa School have been influential for me. Raul Vaigla is a fantastic bass player, for example.” “All the songs on the album, I think you can recognise them in the gigs, but each time we play

vents

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 7

Tallinn Card price change The popular red travel card is now more family friendly. instrumental solos, we do so in a different way. Because it’s a big band, I can’t think that everything is improvised, otherwise it would be chaos. You have to write something down, figure out some main melodies and harmonies, and then you can work around that.” For Trump, 2017 is about getting out there and gigging to spread the word. “We’ve got a live session coming up in the [recently renovated] Estonian Raadiomaja [Radio House]; I’ve heard really good words about the place, the new technology there should be brilliant. I’ve also been working on those festival gigs for three or four months now, trying to push the group out beyond just Estonia.” Nonetheless, Trump is proud of his peers in the young Estonian jazz scene. “There are so many names [to look out for]. If you look at the Music Academy, it’s full of talent. I’ve had the pleasure to play with Maarja Aarma [a singer, part of Gretagrund as well as a solo artist], and [saxophonist] Alexander Paal just gave some amazing concerts with his quartet. Holger Marjamaa, the piano player... I can’t say everyone, the list is too long.” 26 is a young age for a jazz player,

and exceptionally young for a band leader. Being the authority figure isn’t a concern for Trump, though. “Actually I don’t think about it. You can’t lead a band and think about that. It doesn’t matter how old you are - it’s your band and your business!” One, by The Trump Conception, is out now in record stores and on Spotify. Janno Trump plays in the band for wartime-style vocal group The Swingin’ Sisters at Tallinn’s Chicago 1933 (Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town a2) on Friday 3rd February and Sunday 19th February at Philly Joe’s Jazz Club (Tatari 4, Tallinn c2). ■

TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn Card has changed its prices.

With this card you can get into almost any museum in Tallinn or at least with a discount. The card also offers other travel discounts. The new price list will certainly make parents travelling with children happy. The 24h card for adults is now 25. Together with an adult, up to two children six years and under can get into different attractions for free. So those travelling with small children will only pay for adult cards. Children’s card are now for kids up to the age of 17 and the card costs 14.

Tallinn Card is a good investment for visitors, who want to see a lot and save time and money. The card also lets you ride Tallinn public transport. You can get into most museums for free as well. With only one museum visit with the family, the card has paid for itself. It allows you to get in easier to many places, ultimately making your trip run more smoothly. In addition to museums, the card offers discounts in many cafés and restaurants. Guided walking tours of Tallinn and cruises in the Bay of Tallinn are also discounted. You can get a 24, 48, or 72 hour card. There is also a Tallinn Card Plus, which offers a free sightseeing tour of the city. ■

shopping

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ f e b r ua r y 2 0 1 7

n Department

Stores

Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

n Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands. Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

n A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

n Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

n Food Markets

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

Have you ever tried an escape room?

Shopping

Lootsi Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The rapidly developing port area

has seen many changes over the last few years, with the addition of new shopping centres and plenty of apartment complexes popping up seemingly overnight. Lootsi keskus is built into refurbished warehouse spaces and can offer you a different kind of shopping centre experience. While there is plenty of shopping to be done at Lootsi, there are also many activities fun for the whole family. Have you ever tried an escape room? At Raketiteadus you can choose between three different themed rooms where you and your family or friends work together to

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ f e b r ua r y 2 0 1 7

shopping

ShoeShop opens new location in the Old Town Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Watch the game and enjoy a beer at Beer Stream.

ShoeShop offers youthful and

Spotlight:

Keskus escape the room in 60 minutes. (raketiteadus.ee) Want to learn some new cooking skills? Toiduakadeemia offers courses for different skill levels and interests or you can get a group together and book a private class. (toiduakadeemia.ee) It’s not just fun and games at Lootsi. There is also an interesting selection of restaurants and cafés to enjoy. The KGB theatre/café/museum offers about a two hour programme including food in a Soviet style living room where you are entertained as well. (kgbcafe.ee) Beer lovers will enjoy the new sports bar and grill Beer Stream where you can enjoy all your favourite sports along with some great mainly meaty meals. (beerstream.ee) n

Brush up on your cooking skills at Toiduakadeemia.

Location Lootsi keskus Lootsi 8a, Tallinn a3 Organic food shopping at Lootsi keskus.

trendy shoes for all ages. The store brings stylish and quality footwear for both men and women to Tallinn. Their assortment follows all the latest trends, keeping a youthful vibe, both in their collection and in the atmosphere of the store. ShoeShop sells brands that you

mostly won’t find anywhere else in Estonia. Most of the shoes in ShoeShop are made from 100% fine Italian leather, but the price certainly doesn’t reflect that. Most of the prices fall under €100. n

Location ShoeShop Suur-karja 2, Tallinn Old Town i2

nightlife

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Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

G-punkt

Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Põrgu

n the classic (and lyricallydubious) duet “Baby, It’s Cold Outside,” a couple argue over whether or not to leave the house, as the snow falls outside. Tallinn in February has many attractions to visitors; it may still be winter, but in the chilliest time of year, the important thing is to stay in one area of the city, and the limit your footsteps outside. With the Estonian capital being so small, it’s got the perfect dimensions to make this possible. Let’s look at some of the bars in a small radius that you could consider in order to warm your nights.

Self brands itself as a gin bar, so you can expect to find some tasty spirits here.

Town i2) is one of the many res-

taurants by day that become a bar by night. It’s got a feel of a hideout, where visitors can create their own reality, and an oldtimey spirit that takes you back to the classic movies of the era of Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn. Sazerac achieves this through the clever use of lighting - there is a sky full of stars on the ceiling and the general ambiance is helped by the shadows and silhouettes projected all over the bar. A lot of Tallinn’s hip and happening people call this place home, with bar staff experts in cocktail-making and in selecting

a wine to suit your mood. If you want to fit in, dress to impress. Sazerac reduced its opening hours for January to Fridays and Saturdays, however expect the bar to ramp things back up as the year progresses, and you will find in February that more days are being covered, after a month of what the staff described as being about “going to the gym, eating healthy and spending more time with family and friends.”

Self Baar (Vaike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2) is right next to Sazerac,

and continues the feeling of classy opulence you got while sipping an Old Fashioned next door. Self brands itself as a gin bar, so you can find some of the world’s tasti-

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Patt Sadama 6, Tallinn a2

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Karaoke

The Highlander

Shamrock

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town i3

Cigar Lounges

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

The Oak Lounge

Sazerac (Vaike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old

Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, BAILA

Von Krahl

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

Warm in the Snow

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Tallinn residents continue to call Baila, open until the very small hours, their final stop of the night because it’s so damn fun.

Cubanita Live Cafe

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Nightclubs

Sigari Maja

Butterfly Lounge

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

Estonian

Café Amigo

Karja Kelder

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Baila

Kochi Ait Tavern

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Klubi Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Chicago 1933

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Late Night Dining Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

est spirits in there, which you can enjoy to uplifting music. That’s not the only thing that’s spirited, though. The idea of the bar is to transport you to a place far away from the everyday problems of how to guard yourself from a Baltic breeze in temperatures of -10 degrees Celsius. Self, as the name implies, is a bar where you are encouraged to be hedonistic and to think of number one. To help you in this aim, there is food made and cooked by a kitchen that takes pride in the appearance of everything. The best of the Baltics is merged with southern Europe in this looselySpanish-themed establishment, and it’s quite wonderful.

Baila (Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2) is a bar for the ages. Tallinn residents continue to call this club, open until the very small hours, their final stop of the night because it’s so damn fun. The DJ plays a combination of chart pop with a dancehall or a salsa fizz, or sensual Latin music to make your feet move, the drinks are

relatively inexpensive, all of the (predominantly female) bar-staff are dab hands with cocktail shakers, and there is table service, if you can find a table in one of the weekend’s most popular stops. What’s always been extraordinary about Baila is how it’s not just the glitterati, or tourists, or foreign residents, who go there, as seems to be the case with so many Tallinn bars. Rather, Baila is frequented by anyone and everyone, and as a consequence you’re highly likely to find someone new to talk to, who does something incredibly interesting, but just wants to dance the rest of the night away. It’s hot and sweaty in there, but loosen your shirt buttons and get on the dance-floor. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 7

nightlife

Estonian Sound that Affects TEXT STUART GARLICK

The Estonian music market might

be a small one, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t many artists who should be grabbing your attention. As the Baltic Guide seeks to bring you the very best of Estonia, we think that you ought to seek out these albums, all of which can be found either on Spotify around the world, or at music shops like Lasering, along with large branches of Rahva Raamat and Apollo in Estonia. If these albums get your interest, we also recommend you hot-foot it to the coolest independent record store in Tallinn, Biit.Me (Pikk 9, Old Town g2), where vinyl and digital curiosities from every genre await you. Let’s begin with the new album from arch, rebellious Estonian rapper Metsakutsu, Kuhu Koer on Maetud, which plays like a callto-arms for disaffected people from start to finish, with hip-hop anthems like single cut Ära Mine Närvi (Don’t Get on My Nerves) showing invention and controlled aggression, while also maintaining a sense of fun. Estonian rap has many emerging stars, with Reket another you should take a look at. Although these guys rap in Estonian, anyone can appreciate the rhythm in their poetry. Another Estonian-language star, in fact probably the biggest of all at the moment, is 2015 Eesti Otsib Superstar (Estonian Idol) winner Jüri Pootsmann. You’ll remember Pootsmann from his problematic performance at Eurovision 2016, where his song Play seemed overshadowed by attempted on-stage trickery, but you really ought to dive deeper with him, because this is no shallow pop star backed by a bigmoney machine - Täna, Pootsmann’s debut full-length album, is underpinned by a real talent. Pootsmann’s greatest weapon has always been a syrupy baritone, which can be used either to urge or to persuade. He does both on the album’s ten tracks, which build on the promise of his 2015 selftitled debut. The smartly-dressed crooner is at his best when he’s allowed the chance to labour luxuriantly on his syllables, as on opener Otsin Sind Homme, a song that allows Pootsmann to paint his voice romantically over a lush soundscape reminiscent of Glasgow ‘80s soft-pop trailblazers like Prefab Sprout and The Blue Nile. The harmonies there and on later

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

track Tuleta are straight out of the playbook of another great melodyband, Deacon Blue. Elsewhere, Pootsmann tries to funk it up, perhaps at the suggestion of his record company, and it’s with mixed success that he does so. The title track of Täna aims to sound like a Justin

Timberlake-style call to the heart, but comes across as trying a little too hard for its own good. Meanwhile, Loving Arms, the album’s only English-language song, seems like an anomaly next to such an otherwise high-quality collection. Nonetheless, this is an album with lush production and accomplished songwriting and singing. If your tastes are a little more abrasive, or you used to like the Foo Fighters and Muse before they both went soft and sold out, you’ll go mad for experienced rockers Elephants From Neptune’s latest release, Oh No. As the title suggests, this is a playful English-language album, and it’s carried along by a rush of anthemic guitar work that we’re often told has gone out of fashion, but will never go out of style. Elephants, together since 2010, get better and better with each passing year, and tracks like Huntin’ Cobras deserve to take the band’s chunky garage rock into the arena. Sometimes the varied palette of jazz can bring the deepest of emotions to the fore, a fact confirmed by the debut from Gretagrund, Püsimatu Hing. Vocalist Maarja Aarma and pianist Britta Virves are said by the experts at Tallinn’s Philly Joe’s bar to be among the best rising stars in the national jazz scene, and they’re supported by a band that keeps the sound loose and delicate enough for all manner of feelings to bubble to the fore over the listening time. Final track Kaugis. Ruum is a sad reflection from a person who feels left behind, and it’s among the highlights of this amazing debut. For more on Gretagrund, take a look at my feature on the band from 2016, in which they talk through the album track-by-track (http:// charmoffensive.ee/blog/2016/6/17/ gretagrund-interview). ■

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

museum

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The fascinating viking exhibition at the Maritime Museum has many artefacts, all of which have been found in Estonia.

Viking Graves and Samarkand Dirhams TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

ne thousand years ago, Northern Estonia was an important trade route. Vikings didn’t travel the trade routes as feared men, but as merchants. The fascinating viking exhibition at the Maritime Museum has many artefacts, all of which have been found in Estonia. This is the first time there has been such a comprehensive display. The oldest artefacts are from the year 400. The perception of vikings and other merchant journeys has changed and evolved through the help of excavations. Silver coins found in Estonia have travelled here from Con-

stantinople and Samarkand. They were used to purchase Estonian iron, which you can find out more about, like how it was made. The ancient fortress of Iru sat where Tallinn is now towards the mouth of the Pirita River. This was one of the most important places on the trade route. The journeys of the viking ships (about 30-40 km) travelled through ports and citadels to securely deliver goods from Arabia. They tried to avoid wars, as the goods they were transporting would suffer. Many of the finds have been found in graves. Weapons were buried with bodies. Many objects were destroyed during cremation, but the remains can be

Silver coins found in Estonia have travelled here from Constantinople and Samarkand.

Fat Margaret's Tower from the outside.

interpreted by archaeologists. The most recent excavation was from grave sites on the island of Saaremaa in Salme, where two viking ships were found with tens of buried soldiers. The viking exhibition in Fat Margaret's Tower is open until the end of August. The exhibition is also fun for children. The museum is open until May

from Tuesday to Saturday and in summer will also open on Mondays. ■

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Location Viking Era Treasures from Estonia Exhibition Estonian Maritime Museum, Paks Margareeta, Pikk tänav 70, Tallinn Old Town f3.

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

TH BA RU TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™F EF BE RB U AA R YR Y2 02 10 71 7

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

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PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

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1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

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Kolde puiestee

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J. Poska Mere pst

Kelmiküla

Lille

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Balti jaam Ädala

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Linnahall Port

Hobujaama

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

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Tallinna Ülikool

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Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

■ 30-day: €23

Vineeri

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■ Single-ride ticket from driver: €2 ■ 24-hour: €3 ■ 72-hour: €5 ■ 5-day: €6

2 4

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ÕISMÄE

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey. More information: www.visittallinn.ee/visitor/plan/getting-around/ public-transport.

JÄRVE

Airport

At the beginning of September, tram line 2 will run from Ülemiste to the train station where a new turnaround point has been made. The line also has a new stop at Merekeskus. Bus number 52 will continue to run to Kopli until tram line 1 resumes service in autumn 2017.

■ Registered residents of Tallinn ■ Tallinn Card holders ■ Unaccompanied children under 6 ■ Children under 3 with one accompanying adult

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24 and 48 hrs on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets: adults: €19/24hr, €23/48hr www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

I DE E ™™ F FE EB BR RUUA AR RY Y 2 20 01 17 7 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.elron.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station tion to the city: tram ram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ys

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Nordica - Estonia's newest airline, replacing Estonian Air currently serves many routes in Europe and Scandinavia in cooperation with Adria Airways. +372 664 2200 info@nagroup.ee, www.nordica.ee Open 5.00-21.00, Sa 5.00-16.00

Photo: Nordic Aviation Group

Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ F E B R UA R Y 2 0 1 7

sightseeing

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Top 9 Things to See and Do in Tallinn We asked locals where they take their visiting friends in Tallinn - here’s what they said: 4 CENTRAL MARKET If you want a trip back in time to Soviet Tallinn, visit Tallinn’s Central Market for a different kind of food experience. There are plenty of booths and stalls to peruse inside and out and some food vendors too. Our favourite is the Georgian bakery where you can get freshly baked lavash and hachapuri (stuffed pastries with meat or cheese).

1 KADRIORG Kadriorg Park is the area where you will find the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park in both summer and winter. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

8 TV TOWER

5 OLDE HANSA We certainly don’t need to tell you that the medieval restaurant Olde Hansa is touristy, but there’s a reason it’s so popular, it’s actually a really cool place to visit. The recipes for the menu has been researched from medieval recipes, the interior is lit by candlelight and servers are dressed in period clothing. If you don’t want a whole meal, you can enjoy a drink on the main floor in the same cosy setting.

2 RELAX AT A SPA Estonians have a long spa tradition. What better way to warm up on a cold day than in the sauna or pool. There are many day spas throughout the city, but here are some local favourites. Kalev Spa (kalevspa.ee) is centrally located just on the outskirts of the Old Town and has a 50 metre pool, along with water slides, saunas and more. You can book a private sauna and hot tub in one of their rooms upstairs overlooking the pool too. Just around the corner is Reval Sport (revalsport.ee), which also has different saunas, pools and other ways to enjoy yourself. Viimsi Spa (spatallinn.ee) is located on the outskirts of town, but well worth the trip as it boasts seven different saunas, different pools and jacuzzis and plenty of places to lounge and relax, as well as an 18+ area. And if you’re looking for one of the most unique sauna experiences, the Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia (radissonblu.com/en/olumpiahotel-tallinn/ services) offers a private sauna with a view over the city from the 26th floors that you can book.

3 KALAMAJA Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. More recently, The

6 OLD TOWN VIEWING PLATFORMS Kohtu Platform offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The redtiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Patkul Platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Kiriku Platform the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets.

7 BASTION TUNNELS

area is now booming with new apartment buildings going up and restaurants and cafés opening all the time. Be sure to check out the street food area too.

The 314-metre tall Tallinn TV Tower has been a tourist magnet ever since its reopening. From the visitor’s platform you can see the silhouette of the Tallinn Old Town, some 10 kilometres to the west. Muuga Harbour is located to the north, on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. Once you have looked horizontally, step on the glass circles in the floor and look vertically, 170 meters down! If you are less adventurous, just take a break in the caférestaurant, or get a glimpse of an interactive exhibition. www. teletorn.ee/

Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tunnels can be explored only on a guided tour. http://linnamuuseum.ee/kok/en/ passages-under-the-bastions/

9 KGB MUSEUM A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. Bookings are a must! https://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/ news/news/hotel-viru-ja-kgbmuseum/01965068_392922

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