19 4 | THE LOCAL
contents WINTER 2020
|
JAN-FEB-MAR
FEATURES
12 Laissez Les Bon Temps Rouler
A guide to the Texas-sized celebrations in Galveston, Crystal Beach, and Beaumont by Rachael Lindley
19 Go Early, Go Often
Insider tips to a fully-immersed Cajun experience in New Orleans by Jill Worthington
28 Cotton’s Seafood
Jim LaBove’s autobiographical cookbook gives readers an authentic taste of Cajun culture by Destiny Martin
08 Editor’s Note 16 Events 26 The Best Boil Houses
Where to go when your crawfish craving strikes
36 King of the King Cake
Celebrating a colossal confection and the family behind it by Sierra Kondos
40 Cajun Navy Relief
The civilian-led rescue force taking America by storm by Dave Roberts
44 Artist Watch: Sheri Callahan by Grace Mathis
46 Directory 47 Sea & Be Seen
THE LOCAL | 5
THE LOCAL CONNECTING YOU WITH SOUTHEAST TEXAS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Destiny Martin CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Sierra Kondos Rachael Lindley Grace Mathis Dave Roberts Jill Worthington CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Luke Mauldin Tom Osten New Orleans & Company Mardi Gras Galveston! Mardi Gras Southeast Texas ON THE COVER
The Atlantic blue crab is symbolic of Cajun culture, and is a “species that every Cajun spends a great portion of his life pursuing and eating.” —Jim LaBove
ADVERTISING INFO To advertise in The Local Magazine, call (817) 505-8208 or email us at info@thebolivarlocal.com to request more information. News releases and story ideas to may be sent to destiny@thebolivarlocal.com. 650 MEDIA GROUP, LLC P.O. Box 1747 Crystal Beach, Texas 77650 The Local Magazine is produced by 650 Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. The Local is not responsible for facts represented by its authors or advertisers. No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without consent of the editor.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
My grandmother and I whip up a butter-based roux from the book Cotton’s Seafood
M
y last attempt at making a roux did not go so well. The first cool front of Fall had made its way to my front doorstep and I was determined to channel my inner Cajun. On the menu: a big pot of chicken and sausage gumbo made from scratch. “What do I do if it’s foamy?” I asked my mom over the phone, trying not to panic. I had been stirring equal parts of flour and oil for well over fifteen minutes. What was in my pot looked more like a frothy caramel latte than it did the rich chocolate-colored roux I had seen my grandmother execute a hundred times before, usually without much effort at all. With a little “doctoring up” after the roux melt-down, literally, my gumbo
8 | THE LOCAL
turned out fine. But that was before I had the chance to read Cotton’s Seafood: A Cajun Autobiographical Cookbook written by local author Jim LaBove (featured on page 28). Jim wrote the book to pay homage to his parents, Cotton and Cora LaBove who raised their family along the salt marshes near the Texas-Louisiana border. The fascinating way of life and rich seafood recipes depicted in Cotton’s Seafood inspired much of the content for this Cajun Issue of The Local, and I hope you’ll enjoy what we’ve got in store for you within the pages of this edition. Starting on page 12, you’ll find a full guide of Mardi Gras events taking place across Southeast Texas. If you feel the Big Easy calling your name before
then, you’ll find lots of great tips in our insider’s guide about New Orleans on page 19. And what would be a Cajuncentric issue without mention of two Cajun food groups: boiled crawfish and King Cake! Turn to pages 26 and 36 for more on these delectable delights. I look forward to what another year brings and wish you all the best in 2020. Keep it local,
Destiny Martin Founder & Editor
destiny@thebolivarlocal.com
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@HOME
you don’t use anymore, like make-up, handbags, or kitchen gadgets? A good rule of thumb is: if you haven’t used it or worn it in the past six months, it’s time to go. Collect donatable goods in a large box or crate and immediately place it in your car, so the next time you’re out, you can drop it off. LIFEHACK: Do you have friends or neighbors with kids near the same age as yours? Consider if they might benefit from your hand-me-downs.
Get organized
REFRESH YOUR HOME
Now that the holidays are behind us, it’s likely your home could use a little reset! Here are a few tips to help you quickly and affordably refresh your space in the new year. Bye, bye Santa!
By now, you may have already taken down your tree and Christmas decor, but if you haven’t, doing this will almost instantly make your home feel like a clean slate again. Now is a good time to organize your ornaments, check for any burnt-out bulbs, and stow away holiday gift wrap until next season. The Container Store has a variety of gift wrap organizers that fit nicely under a bed or in a closet.
10 | THE LOCAL
LIFEHACK: Keep wreaths free from dust
and damage by hanging them on a coat hanger and covering them loosely with a scented trash bag.
Out with the old, in with the new
With the influx of shopping and gift-giving over the holiday season, you’re bound to have a lot of extra stuff hanging around. Did the kids get new toys, electronics, and clothes? Are there certain things that
Now that you’ve narrowed down the items in your home to things you want and need, it’s time to get organized. Start with one room at a time so that you don’t become overwhelmed by the idea of trying to tackle the whole house at once. It may take several weeks to accomplish, but in a short amount of time, you’ll feel ready to take on the new year. Set a timer with a reasonable amount of time (20-30 minutes) and see how much you can declutter, picking up and putting away items where they belong. LIFEHACKS: Use clear stackable shoe box containers for small toys like action figures, Barbies, Legos, and crayons where you can easily see the contents and add a label. Display extra blankets in an oversized basket for easy-access.
Clean slate
Revitalize your newly organized space by bringing in a few sensory elements to serve as an instant pick-me-up. Switch out heavy or dark colors with lighter, airy tones. This can be achieved across the many surfaces of your home, like throw pillows, wall decor, bedding, and rugs. Next, swap out seasonal candles with fresh new ones in scents like lemon and mint, or try a diffuser. Finally, lightly dust your furniture and disinfect counter tops with a bleach-free all-purpose spray. Grove Collaborative makes a beautiful line-up of household cleaners derived from plants and free of chemicals. LIFEHACK: Use a lint roller to quickly pick up dust, dirt, crumbs, even pet hair from soft surfaces in your home. TL
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LOCAL EVENTS
LAISSEZ LES BON TEMPS ROULER It’s almost Mardi Gras season in Southeast Texas and that means it’s time to let loose with some parades, live music, parties, great food and even better company. Luckily, there are plenty of celebrations to choose from. We’ve created this guide to help you decide where to go! by RACHAEL LINDLEY
Rachael Lindley is a freelance writer from Fort Worth who frequently spends time in Southeast Texas visiting her family. When she isn’t writing, you can find her curled up enjoying a strong cup of coffee with her husband and two dogs.
12 | THE LOCAL
wanting to squeeze a work out in, you can even partake in the Jolly Jester 5K Fun Run on Saturday, February 15. The rest of the day is filled with Krewe Parades and the 9th annual golf cart parade. Come celebrate Fiesta Gras on February 16 with a Hispanic heritage celebration with two parades, live entertainment, vendors and a balcony party. The next Friday, February 21, will begin with the Danny Weber
Memorial Fire Truck Parade and the fun will continue with two Krewe parades that evening. Saturday, February 22, is chock-full of parade fun. Mardi Gras! Galveston will end on Sunday, February 23, culminating in a day for the kids. If your Mardi Gras is a little more familyoriented, don’t miss out on the three children-centered parades happening all day. mardigrasgalveston.com
MARDI GRAS! GALVESTON FE BRUA RY 14 – 2 5
C
ome on down for the 109th annual Mardi Gras! Galveston festivities. Mardi Gras! Galveston has made a name for itself as the third largest Mardi Gras celebration in the United States and spectators can enjoy live concerts, parades, huge floats, balcony parties, extravagant balls and new attractions to be announced soon. Located in historic downtown Galveston, the two-weekend celebration is jam-packed with carefully planned events to fit the needs and wants of everyone. There will be multiple parades happening day and night in and around Galveston’s charming French Quarterstyle downtown area. The Funky Uptown Umbrella Brigade will begin festivities at 8:30 pm on Friday, February 14. Then, for a traditional Mardi Gras good time, stick around for the traditional Mardi Gras! Galveston Parade. You can watch from the street or purchase tickets to a balcony party of your choice. If you’re P H OTO S CO URTE SY O F M ARDI GRA S ! GA LVESTON
THE LOCAL | 13
LOCAL EVENTS
BOLIVAR PENINSULA LIGHTHOUSE KREWE PARADE FE BRUA RY 22
T
he Mardi Gras season on Bolivar Peninsula officially begins at the Rock of Ages Dance on January 11. On January 26, the Bolivar Peninsula Lighthouse Krewe will host a Mardi Gras Champagne Brunch at Jose’s Cantina with a silent auction. The more formal Mardi Gras Ball will be held on February 8. On February 22, the 30th year of Mardi Gras Crystal Beach is underway with the theme 14 | THE LOCAL
of “30 Years of Beaches and Beads.” You can bring the whole family and make a fun-filled weekend out of Mardi Gras in Crystal Beach by renting a beach house and enjoying a weekend getaway. The Lighthouse Krewe Parade will begin around 11:30 am inside the Avocet Subdivision and will travel northeast along Highway 87 and will end at Gregory Park, across from Swede’s Plaza. Be sure
to come early to stake out a good spot to watch all of the action. There will be no shortage of trailer floats, crawfish, Cajun music, fire trucks, candy and beads, more than you can shake a stick at. You can purchase your official 2020 Mardi Gras t-shirt at the Big Store with a custom design voted on by the Bolivar Peninsula Lighthouse Krewe members. lighthousekrewe.com PH OTOS COU RTESY O F TOM OST E N
MARDI GRAS SOUTHEAST TEXAS F E B RUARY 2 0 - 2 3
M
ardi Gras Southeast Texas is thrilled to announce their move to downtown Beaumont after 27 years in Port Arthur. Because Beaumont is a more central location and touches Jefferson, Hardin, and Orange Counties, the celebration moved to be more accessible to more of Southeast Texas. “Beaumont has a beautiful downtown and newly renovated Event Centre that Mardi Gras will take place around,” said Laura Childress of Mardi Gras Southeast Texas. “We are so excited to be partnering with local Beaumont businesses and the future growth we can have in this area.” On Saturday, February 15, Mardi Gras Southeast Texas will officially kick off with the Majestic Krewe of Aurora Grand Ball at the Beaumont Civic Center with the theme of “Puttin’ on the Glitz”. Throughout the next weekend, you can find food vendors, live music, the Budweiser Clydesdales and even hot air balloons all throughout the downtown Beaumont area. There will also be an entire children’s area with free games and activities for kids. The parades will begin on Thursday, February 20, starting with the Courir Du Mardi Gras at 6 pm. Join the Krewe of Krewe Parade with golf carts and ATVs on Friday, February 21 at 7 pm. The Motorcycle Parade and the Aurora Grand Parade will take place on Saturday, February 22. The parade route will begin on Main Street in front of the Civic Center and continue turning left on Crockett and then onto Bowie Street where it will loop around to Jefferson Street and then finish on Laurel Avenue near Edison Park. On the Sunday, February 23, the weekend’s events P H OTO S CO URTE SY O F M ARDI GRA S S ET X
NEW LOCATION IN 2020
will end with a Gospel Brunch at the Convention Center, the Munchkin Parade for children, the Umbrella Brigade Parade and the Motor Parade. Mardi Gras Southeast Texas is comprised of 14 non-profit organizations all using volunteers efforts to make the annual event possible. Because of this, all funds raised from Mardi Gras Southeast Texas go back to those charities in Southeast Texas. mardigrastx.com TL THE LOCAL | 15
LOCAL EVENTS
LOVE STRUCK WEDDING EXPO JANUARY 12, BEAUMONT From venues and photographers to catering and even cotton candy— don’t miss Love Struck Beaumont’s Modern Wedding Expo at the Downtown Event Centre on January 12, 2020 from 4-8 pm. Tickets start at $15. discoverbeaumont.com
MARDI GRAS SOUTHEAST TEXAS BEANS & JEANS JANUARY 4, BEAUMONT Join the Krewe of Krewes for their annual Beans and Jeans event to kick off the 2020 Mardi Gras Southeast Texas festivities. Beans and Jeans will be held at the Beaumont Civic Center from 5:30 to 11:30 pm with live music by the 337 Band from Lafayette, Louisiana. Tickets are $25. mardigrastx.com
PINTS FOR POLIO AT NECHES BREWING COMPANY JANUARY 28, PORT NECHES Pints For Polio is an event hosted by the Spindletop Rotary Club to help end Polio, one beer at a time. Since 1988, we’ve seen a worldwide reduction in polio cases of 99.9%. For more than two years, we’ve seen wild polio cases in only two countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan. Join us in our fight to help eradicate this disease. facebook.com/nechesbrewingcompany
MARDI GRAS! GALVESTON FEBRUARY 14-25, GALVESTON ISLAND At Mardi Gras! Galveston, the extravagance found in Texas’ largest Mardi Gras celebration starts with the beads! More than 3 million beads will be thrown at Mardi Gras! Galveston and that’s just the beginning of the elaborate parades, headliner performances, family events, feasting and other festivities that come with hosting Mardi Gras island style. Join us for two weekends of non-stop fun. mardigrasgalveston.com
16 | THE LOCAL
EVENTS CALENDAR JANUARY 4 Mardi Gras of Southeast Texas Krewe of Krewes Beans & Jeans Party; Beaumont mardigrastx.com 11 Bolivar Peninsula Lighthouse Krewe Rock of Ages Dance; Crystal Beach lighthousekrewe.com 26 Bolivar Peninsula Lighthouse Krewe Champagne Brunch; Crystal Beach lighthousekrewe.com 28 Pint for Polio; Neches Brewing Company in Port Neches facebook.com/nechesbrewingcompany FEBRUARY 8 Bolivar Peninsula Lighthouse Krewe Mardi Gras Ball; Crystal Beach lighthousekrewe.com 22 Bolivar Peninsula Lighthouse Krewe Mardi Gras Parade; Crystal Beach lighthousekrewe.com 14-25 Mardi Gras! Galveston; Galveston Island mardigrasgalveston.com 15 Mardi Gras of Southeast Texas Majestic Krewe of Aurora Grand Ball; Beaumont mardigrastx.com 20 Mardi Gras of Southeast Texas Courir du Mardi Gras; Beaumont mardigrastx.com 21 Mardi Gras of Southeast Texas Krewe of Krewes Golf Cart Parade; Beaumont mardigrastx.com 22 Mardi Gras of Southeast Texas Motorcycle Showcase Parade and Aurora Grand Parade; Beaumont mardigrastx.com 22 Mardi Gras of Southeast Texas Umbrella Brigade Parade; Beaumont mardigrastx.com MARCH 7 Port Bolivar VFD Annual Oyster Fry; Port Bolivar 14 Build A Dream Sand Castle Contest; Crystal Beach
THE LOCAL | 17
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travel WORTH THE DRIVE
GO EARLY, GO OFTEN THAT’S THE SECRET TO A FULL-IMMERSION CAJUN EXPERIENCE IN NOLA by JILL WORTHINGTON
P H OTO CO URTE SY O F N E W ORLEA NS & COMPA NY
THE LOCAL | 19
WORTH THE DRIVE
GET AWAY TO THE CRESCENT CITY UNLESS YOU WANT to feel like a salmon swimming upstream in spawning season, do not go to New Orleans on or just before Fat Tuesday itself. This is an odd way to lead a story about how to maximize your Cajun-osity but read on for advice on how to love the experience while avoiding the stress-inducing crowds and angst caused by being jostled in the streets. Since the drive to the Crescent City is just a few hours from Southeast Texas, short getaways there at the beginning of Mardi Gras season when it officially kicks off on King’s Day (January 6) are doable. There’s so much to do that a few trips might be necessary to hit all the highlights. If big cities aren’t your thing, many of the smaller rural towns and villages have parades leading up to Mardi Gras and really love showing off their Cajun spirit and heritage. Don your purple, green, and gold duds to watch one or more of the five parades that take place on January 6. Then, between February 1 and the day itself on February 25, parades build in frequency and size. Check the New Orleans tourism website for a full schedule at: mardigrasneworleans.com. But there’s so much more to the Big Easy than Mardi Gras and since it’s such a picturesque 20 | THE LOCAL
Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden in City Park
PHOTOS COURTESY OF NEW ORLEANS & COMPANY
drive along Interstate 10, elevated above the bayous, why not take a trip just to see all the great new things or enjoy experiences previously missed? The Sazerac House is a new museum celebrating this liquor’s influence on the city and vice versa. Complimentary tours and tastings are available at their location on Magazine Street. The National World War II Museum isn’t new but frequently offers new exhibits, and the New Orleans Museum of Art recently doubled the size of its Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden in City Park. New Orleans’ wide array of restaurant choices has always reflected its multicultural identity and the ones that made certain foods famous are still pleasing folks: Drago’s Seafood (grilled oysters), Brennan’s (bananas Foster), Antoine’s (oysters Rockefeller), the Central Grocery and Deli (muffalettas) and Café du Monde (beignets). PRO TIP: Visit the latter’s iconic must-see original location in Jackson Square after an evening in the Quarter as it’s open 24 hours a day. It’s very busy during the day, so visit the other locations scattered throughout the city, like at City Park, for a chicory coffee fix at peak times as they are generally less busy. Reflecting the city’s joie de vive attitude, Justine’s is a newer, colorful eatery in the French Quarter. Dinner is a delicious and entertaining experience with burlesque dancers strutting their stuff around the restaurant and DJs spinning jazzy tunes nightly. There’s a late night menu until 1 am on weekends, as well. Xander Peters, a Beaumont native and recent transplant to New Orleans, recommends the Gumbo Shop, Galliers Restaurant and Oyster Bar, and Crescent City Steakhouse for tasty dinners in lesser known spots and a little place called Hobnobbers Variety Bar and Restaurant
Classic New Orleans-style beignets at Café Du Monde
for a plentiful lunch that’s less pricey. Multiple trips to truly soak up the Cajun spirit may necessitate looking for inexpensive options for activities as well as food. It’s always fun to hop the street cars and ride around the city when walking becomes taxing on the legs. It’s an inexpensive way to do a self-guided tour. Peters recommends renting Blue Bikes as a cheap and easy way to navigate the city’s sometimes crowded roadways. There are several options for cemetery tours but if you want to wander at leisure, away from the hub bub of the Quarter, go to the Lafayette Cemetery Number One in the Garden District to do so for free. Just like you can’t go to NOLA and not try the food, chicory coffee, or a Sazerac cocktail, missing out on the music would be a huge faux pas. Bourbon Street is famous for birthing greats like Al Hirt and Louis Armstrong and it’s still fun to check out the clubs there, but much of the music scene has moved to Frenchmen Street. While rocking out at clubs there, don’t miss the nightly open-air Palace Art Market. Those two music-centric areas can sometimes be busy with tourist traffic, so Peters recommends The Spotted Cat Music
Club, The Elysian Bar, Preservation Hall or Saturn Bar as “cool music spots.” Some look a bit suspect on the outside but the hot riffs inside make up for it. When the purple, green, and gold call your name and you’re ready to warm up to Mardi Gras season or just looking for a cultural and culinary getaway, New Orleans delivers. TL Jill Worthington is a travel writer who conveys the essence of a locale, while uncovering hidden gems where others see the mundane. Having worked in the publishing industry for over 30 years, Jill has maintained her inquisitiveness and sense of wonder for travel. Contact her through writeoncommunicationservices.com
THE LOCAL | 21
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WELCOME TO
CAJUN COUNTRY These products of Parish Brewing Company are distributed by Del Papa Distributing Company
22 | THE LOCAL
I
n the middle of what may be considered the “offseason” along the Texas Gulf Coast, Mardi Gras gives locals and visitors alike a reason to celebrate. Featuring parade floats, beads, live music, brews and amazing food, Mardi Gras in Texas keeps long-held traditions alive and brings people together. If you have attended events along the Gulf Coast, you are familiar with the lavish parades, elaborate parties, and the festival-like feel of the weekend celebrations. While many think New Orleans to be the capital of Mardi Gras, the original Mardi Gras celebration took place in Mobile, Alabama. However, at the time, Mobile was the capital of Louisiana, so we can still give credit to the Pelican State. Louisiana’s local flavors and traditions have inspired and stimulated the minds and mouths of celebrators in Texas. This year, as Mardi Gras nears and the air begins to smell of jambalaya, crawfish, and gumbo roux, your Mardi Gras experience is about to get even more authentic as Louisiana’s Parish Brewing Company beer is now available in Texas! Located in the heart of Cajun Country in Broussard, Louisiana, Parish Brewing Company started as a 50 gallon “nano-brewery” producing about 20 kegs a week. The Brewery’s philosophy centers around brewing beer of incredibly high quality—no matter the style—that people want to drink.
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“WE DON’T BELIEVE IN BOUNDARIES AND LIMITATIONS ON TECHNIQUES OR INGREDIENTS.”
THE LOCAL | 23
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Canebreak, was the brewery’s breakout beer: a refreshing American wheat ale that drinks easy and highlights honey-sweet remnants of Louisiana sugarcane and notes of citrus. Their products have continued to evolve with the ever changing consumer market. Their portfolio now includes well-known Envie Pale Ale and Ghost in the Machine. Today, the brewery is best known for their many juice bomb IPAs and Pale Ales. As the brand makes itself comfortable on Texas shelves, we are thankful that the taste of Louisiana continues to influence the Texas Gulf Coast. Allow us to introduce you to some of Parish Brewing Company’s finest. They are sure to make a great first impression! TL
GHOST IN THE MACHINE
DOUBLE IPA - 8% ABV Welcome to the future. Parish Brewing Company’s collective human consciousness, or Ghost in the Machine, has gained a tolerance for hops beyond what mankind has ever known before. This double India Pale Ale is the necessary outcome. Brewed with obscene quantities of handselected Citra hops from a favorite farm in Yakima Valley, WA. TASTE PROFILE: hazy, tropical, pure hop juice
CANEBRAKE
LOUISIANA WHEAT ALE - 5% ABV A true original, Canebrake has been Parish Brewing Company’s best-selling beer since 2010. This refreshing American wheat drinks easy and highlights honey-sweet remnants of Louisiana sugarcane and notes of citrus on the finish from Cascade hops picked from our favorite farm in Oregon. TASTE PROFILE: refreshing with subtle notes of honey and citrus
PURE TROPICS
IPA – 7% ABV Parish Brewing Company took their favorite base IPA recipe and conditioned the beer on Mango, Pineapple, and Pink Guava purèe. It is massively dry-hopped, pulpy, wet, and purely tropical. TASTE PROFILE: tropical
24 | THE LOCAL
PARISH PILSNER
PILSNER – 4.6% ABV A crisp, lighter-bodied lager that still retains a strong aroma of yeast and noble hops, with a peppery finish after a mildly sweet but clean flavor. TASTE PROFILE: crisp and clean
RÊVE
COFFEE STOUT – 7.2% ABV This silky smooth coffee stout is created with a carefully selected blend of specialty grade estate beans from Columbia and Java. The coffee gods at Rêve have finished them to a city/full city roast to highlight the true character of the beans and their origin prior to addition to our export strength milk stout. Enjoy any time of day, this beer will drink like a delicious cold-brewed coffee. TASTE PROFILE: cold brewed coffee
ENVIE
AMERICAN PALE ALE – 5.5% ABV This delicious pale ale is juicy, hazy, and crushable. A totally new-school take on an old-school American craft beer, Envie is bursting with glorious hop aromas of mango, lychee, orange, and other tropical fruits. This beer pulls of the incredible feat of having the best juicy qualities of hops but none of the harsh, bitter finish you may be used to. TASTE PROFILE: hazy, juicy, tropical notes with a smooth finish
local eats
P H OTO B Y LU KE M AU LDI N
THE LOCAL | 25
L O C A L E AT S
Facebook page for opening date and hours of operation. @JuJusCajunCrawfishShak
Fannett Seafood FANNETT If you’re a fan of the new-style crawfish tossed in a spicy garlic sauce, look no further than Fannett Seafood. Guests can dine-in or call ahead for take-out available via the restaurant’s convenient drive thru window. @FannettSeafood
Floyd’s Seafood Restaurant
The Best BOIL HOUSES Where to go when your crawfish craving strikes. by DESTINY MARTIN
Juju’s Cajun Crawfish Shak FANNETT This no-frills boil house has become one of Southeast Texas’ hottest destinations for traditional boiled crawfish when they’re 26 | THE LOCAL
in season. The family-run establishment recently moved to its newer location on FM 365, which offers up more seating and the same great crawfish you’ve come to love over the years. If you’re new to Juju’s, they serve only crawfish, potatoes, corn, and sausage, and it’s BYOB. Check their
BEAUMONT At Floyd’s Cajun Seafood, patrons will enjoy an authentic Cajun atmosphere with good food served by a friendly wait staff. Floyd’s approach to boiled crawfish is inspired by authentic flavors of the bayou, using their one-of-a-kind seasoning blend made in house. floydsseafood.com
Crazy Cajun BEAUMONT At Crazy Cajun in Beaumont you’ll find an energetic atmosphere and authentic Cajun food. Their boiled crawfish are arguably some of the best around, and live music is in rotation on weekends. Be sure to save room for dessert and try the Cinnamon Toast Crunch ice cream ball. crazycajunbeaumont.com
LAZY LANE
T LOOK WHA
Reel Cajun PORT ARTHUR Known for their dynamic take on Asian-Cajun fusion, it’s no wonder why Reel Cajun has been voted Best Crawfish three years in a row. With multiple big-screen televisions and a wide line-up of beers on tap, its an ultimate Cajun destination. Their mud bugs come in a variety of heat levels, from “sort’a hot” to “dynamite” according to the menu. reelcajunseafood.com
Rodair Roadhouse PORT ACRES This roadhouse restaurant puts Port Acre’s old Rodair Club back on the map with its welcoming environment and house-made specialties with Cajun flair. There’s plenty of room to stretch out on their family-sized tables, so bring your friends. Happy hour is Tuesday - Friday, 2-6 pm and live music every weekend. @TheRodairRoadhouse
Larry’s French Market GROVES Since 1978, Larry’s French Market has been satisfying your Cajun cravings with a diverse menu of seafood dishes, from fried favorites on their all-you-can-eat buffet to generous platters of boiled crawfish. Larry’s is the place to go get your Cajun fix. Bring your appetite and your dancing shoes as there is live
traditional Cajun music every weekend. larrysfrenchmarket.com
Jose’s Cantina CRYSTAL BEACH Jose Cruz has made his culinary mark on the Bolivar Peninsula for the past twenty years. His familyowned and operated establishment is known to locals as one of the best spots to find boiled crawfish in Crystal Beach. The extensive menu also offers up other seasonal seafood favorites like all-you-can-eat oysters, barbecue crabs, and a wide selection of Tex-Mex dishes. Check their Facebook page regularly for specials. @JosesCantinaRestaurant
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On the Water - Bolivar
Crustacean’s Boil House BEAUMONT This place brings the term, “boilin-a-bag” to a whole new level. To order, start by picking your crustacean (they offer crawfish, crabs, shrimp, mussels, and clams), then choose from one of their four sauces (garlic butter, lemon pepper, Rajun Cajun, or Big Bang Blend) to flavor your bag. Next, finish it off by selecting your preferred level of heat. “Treasure bags,” as the restaurant calls them, come served on a large platter, perfect for diggin’ in! Crustaceans Boil House is casual, but small so come early to beat the crowds. TL
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L O C A L E AT S
This page: a simmering pot of Redfish Courtbuillion; opposite page: Cotton and Cora LaBove photographed with their four children, Jim being the youngest, in his dad’s arms. Circa 1949.
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COTTON’S SEAFOOD
Jim LaBove’s autobiographical cookbook gives readers an authentic taste of Cajun culture by DESTINY MARTIN • photos by LUKE MAULDIN
It’s nearly impossible to talk about Cajun culture without acknowledging the distinct cuisine that comes along with it. For many of us here in Southeast Texas, Cajun food—and the activities involved with trying to acquire it and prepare it, to ultimately enjoy it with family and friends—is a way of life. It is intrinsically part of who we are and how we were raised. Beaumont-based author and musician Jim LaBove is no stranger to the Cajun way of life. He wrote his first book, Cotton’s Seafood: A Cajun Autobiographical Cookbook, as a memoir to his surprisingly simple yet fascinating childhood which he spent in the salt marshes along the Texas-Louisiana border. It was here as
a young boy that Jim learned valuable lessons about hard work, virtue, and life’s greatest pursuits. “It wasn’t until many years later that I began to realize how very fortunate I was to have been raised in this landscape,” Jim says. Jim was born in 1946 to Cotton and Cora LaBove, and was the youngest of four children. Jim’s father, Cotton, was a fiercely independent man who made his living as a commercial fisherman, shrimper, and trapper. A product of the Great Depression, Cotton was skilled at many things and even worked stints as a mechanic and an electrician, but he always found his way back to what he loved to do most: hunt and fish. And so there was always an abundance of fresh
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It wasn’t until many years later that I began to realize how very fortunate I was to have been raised in this landscape. seafood available to the LaBove family. Jim’s mother, Cora, as he goes on to explain in his book, “loved to cook and she passed that love of cooking for loved ones down to me,” he writes. Weaved throughout romantic observations from his youth, Jim flavors the narrative with mouthwatering descriptions of Cajun dishes as prepared by Cora. The recipes included in Cotton’s Seafood are authentic and approachable, most of which employ a short list of humble ingredients. As was Cora’s cooking philosophy: use only what you need to enhance the main ingredient. Albeit, you may first have to catch what you intend to cook! In this autobiographical cookbook, Jim reveals the hard truth about what it means to be Cajun. He provides a historical account of how the Acadiens (French spelling) came to inhabit the unforgiving swampland of Louisiana and their influence on the modern idea of the Cajun lifestyle. Readers will also enjoy Jim’s regular use of Cajun-French terminology throughout the book, complete with pronunciation cues. As I took a stab at saying a few of the words aloud, I laughed as I recollected times when my grandmother and greatgrandmother would exchange CajunFrench phrases, trying to pass on to us grandkids a bit of their heritage.
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The charm of Cotton’s Seafood is that it is a story that appeals to nearly everyone. You either grew up in this era, or your parents did, or your grandparents did. No matter what category the reader falls in, what they will discover is a deeper appreciation for the culture that has come to define our region, the people made of it, and the legacy they have left for the rest
of the world to enjoy. On page 42, it reads, “I guess the great inequity of life is that the people to whom we all owe so much always seem to be gone by the time we finally realize their importance to us.” This became a prompt for me on which I quickly acted. I invited my 81-year-old Cajun grandmother over to cook a recipe straight from Cotton’s
Seafood. Luckily, I had a redfish in the freezer from a recent fishing trip, so we decided on Cora’s Redfish Courtbuillion (pronounced coo be yawh’) found on page 229 in the book. We adapted the recipe only slightly, adding salt, pepper, and Cayenne pepper to taste, and served it over rice with a hearty slice of French bread. C’est si bon!
The next time your appetite longs for Cajun cuisine, don’t resort to “googling” a recipe. Instead, equip yourself with Cotton’s Seafood and step into the kitchen of a true Cajun as Jim provides step-bystep instruction from his ma on how to make a roux, boil crawfish (Cora’s secret ingredient will surprise you!), and much, much more. TL
Find Cotton’s Seafood: A Cajun Autobiographical Cookbook on Jim LaBove’s website: cottons-seafood.com, Jim LaBove
also available on
amazon.com, at The Big Store in Crystal Beach and The Mail Room in Beaumont.
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Cora’s Redfish Courtbuillion INGREDIENTS 5 lbs redfish cut into thick cubes 5 tbsp flour 5 tbsp melted butter 3 large yellow onions, diced 4 ribs of celery, diced 1 large bell pepper, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2½ qts water or chicken stock 2 cans diced tomatoes 1 large can of tomato paste 1-1½ cups green onions, chopped salt, pepper and Cajun seasoning to taste
DIRECTIONS In a deep iron pot, make a roux with the melted butter and flour. When roux is the proper shade of brown, add in yellow onions and stir until the onions start to brown, then add in celery, bell pepper, and minced garlic. Cook for another minute or two then gradually incorporate water or stock until all is thoroughly blended, adding in all remaining ingredients except the green onions. Lower the heat to simmer until the fish is cooked. Season to taste. Turn off heat and stir in green onions. Serve over rice with French bread.
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Oysters Jubilee back for a limited time STINGAREE RESTAURANT AND MARINA is the perfect place to enjoy a casual dining atmosphere on the water, and some of the best seafood the Gulf Coast has to offer. For a limited time, Stingaree will be shucking out their famous Oysters Jubilee: a multi-plate meal that includes oysters three ways—French grilled, on the half shell, and fried—served with a cup of seafood gumbo. The hearty portion is enough food to share and makes a great option as an appetizer for large parties. If you’re appetite is hankering for something a little less adventurous, the restaurant also offers Texas-sized takes on American classics like chicken fried steak, rib-eyes, and a bacon cheeseburger you won’t soon forget. Be sure to leave room for dessert, you don’t want miss out on their bread pudding with Bourbon sauce—it’s a local favorite. Come by boat or come by car; either way, it’s an unforgettable experience at Stingaree Restaurant and Marina. Located on the Intracoastal Waterway in Crystal Beach. www.stingaree.com 34 | THE LOCAL
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Chamber of Commerce 409-684-5940
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King of the
KING CAKE CELEBRATING A COLOSSAL CONFECTION AND THE FAMILY BEHIND IT by SIERRA KONDOS • with edits by DESTINY MARTIN
L
aissez les bon temps rouler! Mardi Gras is just around the corner, and there is no better way to celebrate the indulgent pre-Lenten festivities than with a delicious King Cake. Rao’s Bakery, founded in 1941 and now run by the Tortorice family, begins making their prized King Cakes for Mardi Gras season on January 6, the day of the Epiphany and will continue until Fat Tuesday. “The tradition of the King Cake is recognized in a number of countries around the world,” owner Jake Tortorice says. This year Mardi Gras falls on February 25, but the origin of the cake is named after the Three Kings who visited Jesus, so many have a plastic baby inside to represent baby Jesus. Traditionally, whoever finds the baby gets to be King or Queen of the party, and they are chosen to throw the next King Cake party. After many seasons of making and selling them, Jake affirms that the King Cake not only represents a celebration, but it conjures up feelings and memories from previous years. “People come together and talk about how they celebrate Mardi Gras, asking each other if they have ever been to New Orleans Mardi Gras. Before you know it, thirty minutes go by, and they’re talking about each other’s history of the celebration.” To Rao’s, Mardi Gras and the many things that come along with it, PHOTO S BY LU KE M AULDIN
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A stand-mixer from 1941 remains at the original Rao’s location on Calder Avenue in Beaumont
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like King Cake, are nostalgic. “It’s a cake that transcends time and location,” says Josh Tortorice, Jake’s son and co-owner of Rao’s Bakery. “It’s not something that was created here in Beaumont, Texas. It’s centuries-old, it’s history, and it’s culture. It brings joy and is symbolic of a big party.” In recent years, Rao’s Bakery has kept up with the growing demand for newer and more exciting versions of the King Cake by adding a variety of flavors and fillings. “In the last ten or fifteen years, we’ve deviated from the original cinnamon roll recipe, adding options like strawberry cream cheese, raspberry cream cheese, blueberry cream cheese, and now the very popular Voodoo King Cake.” The Voodoo recipe is inspired by the Zulu King Cake that was created by the Social Aid & Pleasure Club from New Orleans in 1994 when the organization decided they needed a signature cake. According to 225batonrouge.com, the recipe is a decadent deviation from the classic cinnamon-filled or wildly popular fruit-filled cakes. This custom confection features a dense, sweet dough loaded with chocolate chips and cream cheese, topped with a fudgy chocolate sauce and shaved coconut. “We call our version the Voodoo King Cake, and it is awesome! It’s my favorite of all,” Jake adds. Every Mardi Gras season, Rao’s Bakery makes over 13,000 King Cakes for the Southeast Texas region, ranging from large King Cakes to the Petite
Lafittes, which are miniature versions of the cake. During Mardi Gras season, King Cakes can be purchased in-store at all five Rao’s locations, and can also be ordered year-round with a 24-hour notice, but the Voodoo only comes in the large size. Customers can call or order online, and also find them sold at The Big Store in Crystal Beach and Maceo’s in Galveston. Beaumont’s very own Rao’s Bakery was featured in USA Today’s “2016 Best Mardi Gras King Cakes.” The business that’s over 75 years old is well known for its coffee, cookies, and cakes, and has made its mark locally as a popular destination for people to meet and retreat. “I have always wanted the bakery itself to be like a refuge,” Jake explains. “You’ve had a helluva day, maybe the kids are driving you nuts, and you just need a break.” You’ll find it at Rao’s, be it through a quiet corner, a little slice of something sweet, or a refreshing sip of iced coffee. And you’ll also find a familiar smiling face: that of Jake Tortorice, the man who saw promise in the original Rao’s brand founded by baker Johnny Rao in 1941 and has continued to multiply the smiles ever since. TL
Sierra Kondos is a freelance writer based in Beaumont, Texas who enjoys writing from her personal experiences about parenting, family, and travel, in addition to lifestyle topics on Southeast Texas. Contact her at heartofsoutheasttexas. wordpress.com.
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CAJUN NAVY RELIEF WE DON’T WAIT FOR HELP. WE ARE THE HELP. by DAVE ROBERTS • with edits by CODY MARTIN
OVER THE PAST SEVERAL YEARS ON THE TEXAS GULF COAST, our communities have
experienced an unprecedented series of natural disasters. Hurricane Ike, Hurricane Harvey, and most recently, Tropical Storm Imelda have decimated our region. Unfortunately, the flooding associated with these storms is becoming more and more commonplace, and even though we are no strangers to these types of weather events, there is only so much a family can do to prepare, and only so much existing agencies can do to respond. As with everything, necessity breeds innovation. And out of this necessity has come The Cajun Navy. The Non-Profit, registered 501©3 organization got its start with humble beginnings back in 2016 by creating a Facebook page when Denham Springs, Louisiana, was hit with record flash flooding. The Facebook page helped ordinary civilians coordinate their time, equipment, and efforts to help rescue citizens in distress. Since then, the group has taken on a more significant role in assisting first responders in these natural disasters. They are now in official contact with firefighters, police officers, and other government agencies to work as one unit to assist civilians affected by natural
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Louisiana Governor John Bel Edwards (R) talks to Shawn Boudreaux, President of the Cajun Navy Relief as they prepare for Tropical Storm Harvey, 2017.
disasters. The group’s efforts have even caught the attention of the Commanderin-Chief. In March of 2019, while hosting the World Champion Houston Astros at the White House, President Donald Trump hailed the efforts of the Cajun Navy during Hurricane Harvey as “incredible.” Here recently, I was honored to be able to visit with Shawn Boudreaux, who is the President of Cajun Navy Relief out of New Orleans, Louisiana. “One thing that often gets misconstrued is that the Cajun Navy are just a bunch of cowboys from Cajun country who don’t know what they’re doing,” he says. “What most people don’t realize is that as an organization, we at Cajun Navy Relief
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train ourselves to be first responders at a FEMA standard, at least.” Since the beginning of the Cajun Navy Relief, Shawn’s roles have expanded to other responsibilities, including being a Public Information Officer. He now works hand-in-hand with official agencies, coordinating and directing his organization’s efforts to areas most in need. In addition to rescue volunteers using their own fishing and duck hunting boats to help stranded citizens, they also play a critical role in obtaining and distributing needed supplies at local distribution points. Operating as a true non-profit, there are no salaries paid to Shawn or the volunteers, and the majority of all funds raised go directly back to
helping the communities affected by the storms (a small portion is allocated for enhanced training opportunities for Cajun Navy Relief volunteers). The teams often purchase dehumidifiers, shop vacs, and other equipment used to assist in clean-up efforts. Typically, the group will partner with a local church, knowing that local pastors will have inside knowledge of the areas and people most in need. Cajun Navy Relief ’s mission statement is as follows, taken from their website: The mission of Cajun Navy Relief is to save lives. WWe are a group of volunteers who work tirelessly without pay (using our own personal equipment) to provide immediate rescue and relief during a natural disaster. Rescue and relief is our
A group of volunteers gather in Louisiana to train for the Cajun Navy Relief. Image courtesy of Cajun Navy Relief’s Facebook page.
rescue and relief is our way of sharing our... cultural tradition of “Neighbors helping neighbors.” way of sharing our South Louisiana cultural tradition of ‘Neighbors helping neighbors’ with people in need across the United States. By integrating civilian volunteers into the Incident Command Structure, we are able to act as a force multiplier for agencies responding to the disaster. Without a doubt, the Cajun Navy has done a tremendous amount of work in our immediate area, all thanks to volunteers who willingly leave behind their own homes and families to assist a neighbor in need. I, for one, could not be more thankful for everything these men and women have done. Their hard work, determination, and efforts have saved countless lives and have also been a catalyst for others looking for a way to help. If you are interested in joining or volunteering, visit their website, cajunnavyrelief.com, and register under the “Volunteer Now” tab. TL
Dave Roberts is an avid kayak fisherman, writer and photographer who travels the Texas coast documenting his experiences along the way. For more information, visit his blog at texaskayakchronicles.com Disclaimer: Cajun Navy Relief is not affiliated with other organizations using the “Cajun Navy” name including the following: America’s Cajun Navy, Louisiana Cajun Navy, United Cajun Navy, Cajun Relief Foundation, Crowdsource Rescue, Cajun Navy Acadiana, Cajun Navy 2016, Cajun Coast, Cajun Army, or Cajun Special Forces.
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A R T I S T WAT C H
Pure Expression A look inside the world of artist Sheri Callahan
by GRACE MATHIS
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In the beginning, Sheri Callahan painted hair. After a successful career of almost 35 years as a hairdresser, she moved her creative focus to the canvas. Her vibrant, colorful paintings are full of movement and texture. While they may seem bold and confident, Sheri confesses that she still doubts herself as an artist. Pointing to a work in progress in her at-home studio, she says, “This has several paintings underneath it that I thought were going to be fabulous. Putting yourself out there for anything is raw. I’m blessed if you see anything that you can connect with.” She knows that many people may not “understand” the pure expressive abstract elements of her art. But she paints the way that she does for herself, to express her own feelings and inner processes. “On the canvas I just try to be intuitive to me. I can’t control what anyone thinks and how they see something.” Sheri admits that she is inspired by her surroundings. A week-
...you put it into abstraction and paint the way it makes you feel. long visit to Sedona, Arizona in May 2019 had a major impact on her recent work. “You reference your travel pictures, to the shadows of color, then recreate it in your own mind and put it intuitively onto the canvas. Those shadows and colors have a way of coming to life. You cannot reproduce the photo but you put it into abstraction and paint the way it makes you feel. How wonderful is that to capture that and express that feeling?” She began her Sedona series of paintings in May and finished in September. The color palette of the paintings reflects the warm desert tones of Sedona, with a ghostly pale cloud in the middle of each. “These are inspired from the Sedona region,” Sheri explained. “It’s a very spiritual environment, with that red rock. These mean something to me, and I want to keep them together as a series for a show.” Sheri credits the support of the Southeast Texas arts community for her inspiration and growth. In particular, local artists Darryl Troppy, Summer Lydick, and Sandy Walker all had an impact on her artistic journey. As well, she has taken several online courses. “I
took an online course in 2017. It was almost a four month commitment, and it was pretty intense. After that I realized, through their coaching, that yeah, I can make a business of this.” “There is a shift that’s fixing to happen in my art, I can tell,” Sheri mused. “I want more negative space I guess. Balance is my goal in life with everything—myself, my husband, family and friends. The canvas is a good place to experiment.” TL Grace Mathis is a freelance writer based in Beaumont, Texas. She enjoys eating all kinds of food (especially Mexican), drinking (craft beer is tops), dancing (to anything), and participating in the local arts scene. Her passion for supporting the rich culture of Southeast Texas motivates her writing.
Rao’s Bakery & Coffee Cafe raosbakery.com
local directory RESTAURANTS/VENUES Neches Brewing Company 1108 Port Neches Avenue 409-237-5700 Rao’s Bakery & Coffee Cafe 2596 Calder Ave. Beaumont 409-832-4342 Rao’s Bakery & Coffee Cafe 4440 Dowlen Rd. Beaumont 409-347-3400 Rao’s Bakery & Coffee Cafe 3504 FM 365 Mid-County 409-729-7267 Stingaree Restaurant & Marina 1295 N Stingaree Rd. 409-684-2731 VACATION RENTALS Biscayne Fantasea 2275 Hwy 87, Suite 3 409-684-3345 Casa Tejas 2275 Hwy 87, Suite 3 409-684-3345 Pompano Paradise 2275 Hwy 87, Suite 3 409-684-3345
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VACATION RENTALS CON’T Seaside Serenity 2275 Hwy 87, Suite 3 409-684-3345 REAL ESTATE/ RESIDENTIAL Cobb Real Estate 2290 Hwy 87 409-684-3790
HOMEBUILDERS Cobb Homebuilders 2290 Hwy 87 409-651-6004
SERVICES CON’T Crystal Beach Local News Tom & Georgia Osten crystalbeach.com
J & J Hughes, RE/MAX On The Water - Bolivar 409-782-3746 (Jo Ann) 409-673-6650 (Jessica)
Parker Lumber Flooring 2948 Gulfway Dr. Port Arthur 409-728-8100
Dan Priest Insurance 347 S Main St. Ste. 100 Lumberton 409-755-7600
Mary Ellen Smith Realty, Inc. 409-457-1070 PO Box 2555 Crystal Beach
HOME DÉCOR/FURNITURE Bayside Chic Galveston 4002 Broadway 409-621-9540
Del Papa Distributing Company 410 I-10 Frontage Rd. Beaumont 888-433-5727
RE/MAX On The Water Bolivar 409-684-3377 2080 B Hwy 87
Coburn’s Kitchen & Bath Showroom 2912 Eastex Fwy 409-899-9911
Swede’s Real Estate 2275 Hwy 87, Suite 3 409-684-3345
GROCERY/SHOPPING The Big Store 2385 Hwy 87 409-684-2400
REAL ESTATE/ COMMERCIAL Swede’s Plaza 2275 Hwy 87 409-684-3345
SERVICES Bolivar Peninsula Chamber of Commerce 1750 Hwy 87 409-684-5940
Frontier Pest Control PO Box 277, Midway 866-400-7378 Gabourel Insurance 6454 Concord Rd. Beaumont 409-898-2693
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