The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 43 Winter 2022 by The Cocktail Lovers

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

INGREDIENTS FOR MORE THAN GREAT DRINKS THE COCKTAIL LOVERS.COM WINTER 2022

ISSUE 43

ISSN 2052-059X

What bartenders are drinking this holiday season

The recipes top ’tenders make at home PAGE 28

Perfect pairings

All the tips you need for matching food and cocktails PAGE 44

Did someone say party?

Top drinking spots to get your groove on around the world PAGE 50

’TIS THE SEASON TO...

CELEBRATE

ANYTIME, ANYHOW, ANYWHERE

WELCOME

hello cocktail lover! Attention people: it’s time to pull on your party pants. For ‘tis the season of celebration, whether you go large or stay on the down low at home. Like most of us at this time of year, I flit between the two – going out doing the sparkly thing, then switching off, slowing down and taking time to enjoy my favourite fs: feasting with family and friends. This issue has been put together with both camps in mind. In the going-out corner, we have Millie Milliken with her pick of the best bars channelling big-party energy around the globe (p. 50), and G and I highlight three spots to head to in London for fab festive food and drink offerings – from Champagne cocktails, canapés and cabaret to plush Sunday lunch with live piano playing and classic Martinis (p. 60). Planning on entertaining at home? Don’t do a thing before checking the invaluable tips from modern etiquette expert Maggie Oldham, who also has some helpful hints for guests (p. 24). There’s more sound advice on the hosting front, including how to style your drinks trolley (p. 34), and the perfect food and drinks pairings (p. 36). Not that your at home celebrations have to be all rules and regs. Take inspiration from our photo shoot, which does things just the way we like our drinks: not too serious, in great company and in a relaxed setting with the requisite dash of style (p. 44). But the main thing is, whatever you do, however you do it, remember: just have fun. Happy holidays!

MS S

We all need the occasional celebration in our lives. A birthday or an anniversary. Christmas and New year. Landing a dream job or the joy of simply winning a humble raffle. With family, friends or our significant other, marking a moment is a wonderful thing. And in these somewhat challenging times we need a little celebration more than ever. But why wait for those big significant occasions? Seizing the moment is the order of the day. Any day. Let’s celebrate finishing a big project or clearing out our wardrobe. Let's celebrate Monday and Tuesday. Or the fact the day turned out sunny when the forecast said rain. Let’s celebrate the love of our family or an enduring friendship. But celebrating doesn’t mean we always have to think big, nice though that might be. It could be just visiting a bar you’ve heard about, treating yourself to a new gin or whisky or throwing a simple house party. So, may we suggest you take a moment to think of something, anything, that you are glad of. And, celebrate it. We’re with you in spirit and hope this issue will give you a few inspiring ideas to make the most of it. Did someone say, celebrate good times? C’mon!

MR G

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Succumbing to the splendour at the stunning Atrium Bar at Four Seasons, Firenze

contents 08

Amuse bouche

News, views, reviews and interviews, including reasons to be cheerful, where they’re drinking in New York and six questions for Salvatore ‘The Maestro’ Calabrese

Special deliveries

Anytime, anywhere, anyhow

Our pick of the tastiest tipples for the season

Staying in? Low maintenance, big impression – simple ideas to get cocktail gatherings at home started right

11 bright reasons to be a cocktail lover Adding glam to our glass, eating our drinks, going for bold, and more

Wrap stars

In the hotseat

What bartenders are drinking this holiday season

50 Did someone say party?

Going out? Millie Milliken picks the top spots to celebrate around the world

Gift ideas for cocktail lovers at any time of year

Modern etiquette expert Maggie Oldham on how to be the dream guest and perfect host

Eggnog, festive punch and fluffy-as-youlike Garibaldis – three of the cocktails that some of our favourite bartenders will be serving at home during the holidays

The cocktail girl & guy

Take 3 ingredients

Liquid intelligence

Two five-star adventures in Italy: she gets all giddy at the Atrium Bar at the Four Seasons in Florence and he soaks up the setting at Compass Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Lake Como

The wheel deal

Celebrating the bar cart with design director, party planning expert and author Vanessa Dina

Rich Woods aka The Cocktail Guy mixes up a very special seasonal Martinez

Jack Sotti on DIY ‘shampagne’

60 Mains & Martinis

Posh Sunday lunch at The Lanesborough, a decadent theatre experience at the Kit Kat Club and holiday fun at Common Decency

Perfect pairings

André Darlington on how to pair cocktails with food

Issue 43 Winter 2022 Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Creative director Scott Bentley – Bentley Creative Copy editing Stephanie Jones Cover photography Joe Brayford Contributors André Darlington, Vanessa Dina, Holly Graham, Lance Narayan, Millie Milliken, Jack Sotti Thanks to Clockwise Bromley, Troels Knudsen, June Lawrence, Katherine Woodward

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:

(+44) 020 7242 2546 mail@thecocktaillovers.com

Find us:

56 The Cocktail Girl

New Year cheers

Music to drink cocktails to

Holly Graham highlights three bars and drinks to celebrate Chinese New Year

As compiled by Lance Narayan from The Departure Lounge

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TheCocktailLovers.com @cocktaillovers meet.thecocktaillovers @thecocktaillovers

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. All details of bars featured in this issue were correct at time of going to press. Please see individual websites for up-to-date information. The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is printed in the UK by Stephens & George.

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

CONTRIBUTORS

HOLLY GRAHAM

New Year cheers: page 62

Hong Kong-based Holly Graham is the author of Cocktails of Asia, a book that shares the recipes, stories and history behind the cocktails, bars and people that define the spirited region that she’s travelled extensively. She is also Managing Editor (International) of DRiNK Magazine, Asia’s leading bar industry platform and is currently number 7 on the Bar World 100 list. In this issue: With Chinese New Year falling on 22 January, Holly celebrates the people and drinks of three different bars in the region.

LANCELOT NARAYAN

MAGGIE OLDHAM

Lancelot is the creator and producer of The Departure Lounge, named as one of the 60 best international stations in the world. Created in 2015, the independent station is renowned for playing a huge selection of easy listening music from the greatest global music libraries, as well as soundtracks and special lounge surprises.

Maggie Oldham is the original Modern Etiquette Coach and etiquette expert. Through her workshops, speaking engagements and media appearances she provides expert etiquette advice for successfully and confidently navigating modern life situations for the 21st century – from upscale dinners and cocktail parties, to business meetings and everyday social occasions.

An award-winning bartender, entrepreneur and spirits communicator, Jack cut his teeth owning and operating award-winning venues in Melbourne, London and Auckland. In a quest to understand global cocktail culture he took a year-long pilgrimage around the world in 80 bars. Currently Jack is the managing director of Supernacular, a creative agency in London.

In this issue: Maggie advises on how to hone your hosting skills and provides some invaluable tips on being the perfect guest.

In this issue: Funds too tight to splash out on Champagne? Jack explains how to make your own version, what he calls ‘Shampagne’.

Music to drink cocktails to: page 66

In the hotseat: page 24

In this issue: Lance has curated an atmospheric soundtrack of 1960s and 1970s music to set the mood for your festive soirees. Scan the QR code and get grooving.

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JACK SOTTI

Liquid intelligence: page 59

APERItiVO Opening up the palate for the spirited stories ahead…

PAG E 9

PAG E 1 0

PAG E 1 4

PAG E 1 6

COCKTAIL HACK #3

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL

6 QUESTIONS FOR SALVATORE CALABRESE

ONE FOR THE DRINKS CABINET

Alex Francis on how to make clever, tasty, lower ABV versions of the drinks you know and love

Three new late-night venues bringing cocktails and great party feels to London

On the glamour of his new bar, Velvet at the Corinthia

Our pick of the bottled cocktail to have in your arsenals this season

PAG E 1 3

JELL–O SHOTS AT MILADY'S…

One of the hottest spots in New York right now

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NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS, INTERVIEWS & HOW-TOS

The PLACE Bacchanalia

Bacchanalia isn’t a restaurant, it’s an experience. From the awe-inspiring statues by Damien Hirst to the dramatic dishes served with aplomb at your table – every inch of the place is a celebration. Of the senses. Of art. Of life. And the 16-strong cocktail list is equally thrilling with delights such as Baklava (butter-washed Absolute Ely Vodka, Palo Cortado sherry, pistachio and honey) – decadence and joy in Mayfair. bacchanalia.com For more places to celebrate, see p. 50.

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APERITIVO

book club COCKTAIL HACK #3 The Cocktail Party – Eat Drink Play Recover

By Mary Giuliani Make like an A-lister and follow insider tips from top New York caterer Mary Giuliani. Keep it close by for all of your party needs, including tried and tested planning advice, acing those hosting skills and a range of recipe ideas for a multitude of events including Awards Season, Cinco de Mayo, Thanksgiving and more.

Esquire Handbook For Hosts - The Original 50’s Guide for the Sophisticated Man

The Craft Cocktail Party – Delicious Drinks For Every Occasion

Edited by Peter Howarth Ever pondered the sober duties of a host? Of the subtleties of after-dinner witchcraft? Find the answers to these pressing questions and a whole lot more in Esquire’s Handbook For Hosts. Yes, it’s slightly oldfashioned and unashamedly aimed at men but there are some invaluable life skills and plenty of chuckles in there too.

By Julie Reiner Our go-to when we’re planning a drinks party. Recipes are grouped by seasonality and occasion and each section includes a mix of holiday-inspired sips, classic cocktails, syrups and infusions, and innovative creations. There are tips a-plenty plus Julie’s personal stories for each season.

THINGS WE LOVE

Someone press play, we’re in the mood to p-a-r-t-y! Which, at this time of year means gravitating towards something glittery and rather fabulous. Like this. Glitter ball drinks trolley, rockettstgeorge.com

Alex Francis, Director of Bars, Little Red Door “A simple way to make lower ABV versions of drinks you love is to reverse the ratios of the base ingredients. For instance, if your preference is for a 6:1 Martini, swap to one part gin, six parts vermouth to make an incredibly refreshing version. Or for something like an OldFashioned where the bases don’t necessarily split, try making it with a fortified wine, or an amaro that has a lower ABV to create a softer, more subtle version of the drink you know.” For more cocktail hacks from industry experts, tune in to The Cocktail Lovers podcast via the QR code below

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APERITIVO

The people JJ Goodman

“From dancing on bar tops to throwing ice and swinging lights, we live by our mantra, ‘welcome to the party,’” says JJ Goodman. We haven’t been to all 17 of the bars that sit under The Cocktail Club umbrella, but we do know the fun factor is dialled up to the max, always. Whether you’re in the mood to throw some serious shapes in Bristol, Birmingham, Reading or Cardiff, good times and great vibes are always guaranteed. thecocktailclub.com

REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL

Three new late-night venues turning up the volume and bringing great cocktails and music to London

The Lower Third

Breathing fresh life into the area once known as Tin Pan Alley, The Lower Third is Soho’s new, live music venue. Boasting two stages – smaller on the ground floor, a larger one downstairs, both devoted to showcasing new and exciting talent. The drinks, overseen by Shannon Tebay, formerly of Death & Co, New York and the American Bar, London are purposefully accessible. All 16 cocktails are twists on classics, named after albums recorded in the area by well-known artistes. Hunky Dory anyone? thelowerthird.co.uk

Stereo

‘A place to arrive for an aperitif, stay for dinner and dance until the early hours’ is how the Experimental Group describe their latest outpost. The 500-capacity venue features a central island bar, 40-cover restaurant and stage for the house band, resident DJs and special performances where an eclectic roster of bands happen. The drinks get equal billing, with house blended vodka and gin from Thames Distillery, beers from South Bermondsey microbrewery Partizan, and a cocktail list including Negronis on tap and a 100-strong wine list. stereocoventgarden.com

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25 Paul Street

If this were a person it would be a cross between Marc Bolan and Grace Jones. Loud and proud, it’s unapologetically inspired by 1970s iconic venues like Biba and Studio 54, which is code for a five-storey Aladdin’s Cave of downright fabulousness. During the week, the fun is confined to two floors, come Saturdays and the entire building opens for the ultimate house party. Drinks? It’s 70s all the way, Baby. Think twists on Harvey Wallbangers, New York Sours and Strawberry Daiquiris. 25paulstreet.com

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APERITIVO WHERE THEY’RE DRINKING IN…

NEW YORK

Five bars to have on your radar when you're planning a trip to the Big Apple

DOUBLE CHICKEN PLEASE

M A RT I NY ' S © STA RC H E F S ; D OU B LE C H I C K EN P LEA S E © EM M A N U EL RO S A R I O ; M I LA DY' S © S H A N N O N STU RG E S S ; K ATAN A KIT TE N © AL E X KIKIS

Japanese Cold Noodles, Mango Sticky Rice, Cold Pizza – you’d be forgiven for thinking these are dishes. Wrong. They’re three of the clever, creative, always inventive cocktails on the menu at Double Chicken Please. More than a gimmick, the concept, five years in the planning, is the vision of Gn Chan and Faye Chen and based on the spirit of hacking design. The culinary creations are available in the Back Room of their Lower East Side hotspot, while the Front is where they serve a range of cocktails on tap. doublechickenplease.com

KATANA KITTEN ‘Director of deliciousness’ and managing partner, Masahiro Urushido, along with co-founders Greg Boehm and James Tune have dreamed up one of the hottest destinations in NYC. And they've got the awards to prove it. That's down to the fact they've got the banging drinks/first-class hospitality/dive bar/fun-factor ratio spot on. Call in for the tipples and sandos, stay for the party – it's never a dull moment here. katanakitten.com

MARTINY’S Another newbie with Japanese flava. This one comes from Takuma Watanabe, former head bartender at Angel’s Share. Spread over three floors in an 1800s former carriage house in Gramercy once home of sculptor Philip Martiny, the food and drink offering is as special as the venue they’re made in. martinysnyc.comcom

MILADY’S The future is looking bright for Milady’s. The old, established neighbourhood bar that closed in 2014 has recently been taken over by Julie Reiner, aka Queen of New York’s bartending scene, together with Susan Fedroff and Christine Williams. Secondly, they’re bringing big 90s-early noughties energy, paying respect to its original dive bar origins. Party-pleasers include Big Apple Martini and, wait for it, Jell-O Shots. miladysnyc.com

EMPLOYEES ONLY There’s a reason Employees Only is back on the World’s 50 Best Bars list – because it’s bloomin’ awesome. Since opening in 2004, it’s something of a beacon for locals and visitors alike – not only for the awesome food but the drinks, made with speed, precision and passion by the white-jacketed bartenders. Stay ’til closing for the legendary, complimentary bowls of chicken soup. employeesonlynyc.com

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APERITIVO

six QUESTIONS for… SALVATORE ONE CALABRESE

time. We’re in a similar situation now – we’re living in a world where we worry about everything, so when you decide to go out, you want to forget all of the doom and gloom. Velvet is an escape – it has all of the glamour of the 1920s, including great drinks, wonderful hospitality and amazing live music but with the inclusivity and feel of the 2020s.

TWO

THREE

What did the room say to you? The feeling of the room made me think about the 1920s. That was the Golden Era and cocktails were the stars and so were the people. We had just come out of WWI and people wanted to have a good

You've been in the business for more than 40 years, what keeps you motivated? When people ask me how much I love my job on a scale of one to 10, I say 20. The bar for me is one of the most social places there is – when you walk in you’re never alone. As a host/bar operator, my duty is to make sure that you feel special – if you feel special, the person you’re with feels special and that’s what motivates me.

four

Tell us about the menu? The first part is made up of 1920s classics such as the Bee’s Knees, Morning Glory Fizz and Boulevardier. We’ve also included the Champagne Charlie, in honour of our new King. For the 2020s Modern Era, Bar Manager Christian Maspes and I have come up with some new drinks, including Americanello, Truffle Sazerac and one we call Tiky Tok. There’s a page dedicated to Martinis, we also have a page of my Signatures and a selection of Golden Era Vintage Cocktails.

five

Is there one drink on the menu that means the most to you and if so, why? Yes, the Velvet Rose. It’s named after and dedicated to my mum. Even from a young age, she really trusted me and pushed me to leave home and search for adventure. She also gave her blessing and support for my wife Sue – she’s a very special lady.

six

How will you be celebrating the festive season and what will you be serving your guests? There’s only one way that I celebrate this time of year and that’s with my family. Sue will tell you, if you come to my house the choice is either red or white wine. Guests come over thinking they’ll get a cocktail but even a G&T is an effort for me! corinthia.com/london

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DAVI D COLL IN S ST UD I O

Salvatore aka 'The Maestro' Calabrese has headed up some of London's most iconic bars including Dukes, The Library Bar at The Lanesborough, Salvatore at Fifty and more recently, Donovan Bar at Brown's Hotel. His latest eastblishment, Velvet is glamour personified – perfect for celebrations of every kind

You’re no stranger to opening fabulous, five-star London bars. What attracted you to Velvet? I have to get a good feeling about a place before taking it on and when I walked into this room for the first time, I had that feeling. From those initial butterflies, I started to dream and that’s when I knew I wanted to take it on.

THE COCKTAIL LOVERS

PODCAST Join us as we share what we’re drinking, where we’re going, products we’re trying, the drinks books we’re reading and all manner of cocktail-loving goodness. Plus, we catch up with our favourite movers and shakers in the cocktail world.

SUBSCRIBE NOW! FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT THECOCKTAILLOVERS.COM/PODCAST

B ETH CROCK ATT

Just search “The Cocktail Lovers” wherever you listen and subscribe to your podcasts or scan the QR code to listen direct 15 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 43

APERITIVO

FIVE WAYS WITH

Vanilla pods boil it

sweeten it

Bring equal parts sugar and water to the boil. Add leftover vanilla pods and simmer until sugar is dissolved. Use in an Old Fashioned.

Place leftover vanilla pods in an airtight jar and fill with caster sugar. Seal and store. Use in desserts.

VANILLA SUGAR

extract IT

infuse it

4 scraped vanilla pods, 100ml white rum or vodka. Roughly chop scraped vanilla pods and pack into a small jar or bottle. Fill with alcohol and seal well. Shake daily. Steep for one week or up to a month stored in a cool, dark place. Use in Bourbon Milk Punch.

Put 3-4 vanilla pods in 70cl bottle of vodka. Leave for a week, shake the bottle every other day. For a stronger infusion, scrape the seeds into the bottle. Use in vanilla Martinis.

VANILLA EXTRACT

steep it

VANILLA COFFEE AND TEA

Add a pod to your coffee beans and grind together. Or steep the pod in your tea.

ONE FOR THE DRINKS CABINET

VANILLA VODKA

BONILLA VISTA PATATAS FRITAS Notable Nibbles

So you’re throwing a l’il soiree at home and you want to impress your guests with an A1 Martini – like Alessandro Palazzi serves at Dukes Hotel. Our tip: order a few bottles of Sacred Dry Martini, made in north London at the Sacred Distillery to the recipe of the man himself. No need to shake or stir, simply pour it straight from the freezer. sacredgin.com

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Here’s a simple game that will test the resolve of your cocktail party guests: Gather everyone around a table. Place a 500g Bonilla Vista Patatas Fritas Crisp Tin in the middle. Peel back the lid and wait. The one who refrains from tucking in, wins. Or loses as the case may be. These organic, thinlysliced Spanish potatoes, fried to perfection and coated with just the right amount of natural sea salt, are definitely worth first dibs. fortnumandmason.com

S H U T TE R STOC K

VANILLA SIMPLE SYRUP

CREATE A STIR!

FI V E

Two party-sized serves for the festive season Green Tea Punch (serves 20)

1 ltr Banks 5 Island Rum 375ml Sencha tea 375ml mint tea 300ml lime juice 250g Demerara sugar

Method: Brew the tea, then stir in the sugar until it dissolves. Add 4 cups of ice to chill and dilute the mixture, then add lime juice and rum. Chill before serving. To serve: Add to a punchbowl filled with one large block of ice. Garnish with grated nutmeg. Created by Jim Meehan

NoMAD Eggnog (serves 20)*

6 eggs, separated 8oz sugar 16oz cream 32oz milk 2oz Frangelico 4oz Chivas 12 year old 6oz Michters bourbon 6oz Martell Cognac 6oz Havana Club Seleccion de Maestros rum 1 whole nutmeg Method: Separate the eggs, placing the whites in a 5-quart bowl and yolks in an other 5-quart bowl. Add 6oz of the sugar to the yolks and whisk until they turn pale yellow and thicken. Whisk in the cream, followed by the milk, Frangelico, whisky, bourbon, Cognac, and rum. Grate the nutmeg over the top and whisk until combined. Add 2oz of sugar to the egg whites and whisk until stiff peaks form. Slowly whisk in the egg yolk/spirits mixture. Reserve in an airtight container, refrigerated, for up to 2 months. To serve: Pour into singlerocks glasses and garnish with freshly grated nutmeg. Created by Leo Robitschek

THE BOTTLE STERLING CHAMPAGNE

C’mon, when we’re talking celebratory drinks, it’s got to be Champagne, right? The one that’s popping our corks right now is the fabulous own-label Sterling Champagne Grand Cru Brut 2018, available at the stunning Sterling Bar in Manchester – a super-cool establishment with own-label bubbles. How swanky is that? sterlingbarmcr.com For more celebratory drinks, see page 44

DID YOU KNOW? Your ability to process alcohol depends on your age, weight and sex. Your body breaks down alcohol at a rate of one drink (10g) per hour. Definitely worth bearing in mind during party season… 17 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 43

eleven bright reasons

01 ADDING GLAM TO OUR GLASS For a touch of pizzazz in your drinks – bejewelled cocktail sticks are go! Check out the fabulous selection from joannabuchanan.com

…to be a cocktail lover right now

TWO

Elevating the everyday Start your morning like the champ that you are with a paper cup reimagined into luxurious bone china. By Tiffany, who else? tiffany.co.uk

FOUR

Making like royalty

How's this for fabulous: Three Kings Cocktail Set featuring lavish twists on three of our favourite drinks. There’s a Gold Martini, Myrrh Negroni and Frankincense Manhattan – all starring Asterley Bros, vermouths. asterleybros.com

RINGING THE CHANGES This is definitely the time to bust out the bling. Pile on the cocktail rings – imitation or real – and let your fingers do the talking. philippaherbert. co.uk 18 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 43

APERITIVO

FIVE

Carrying our drinks with pride Finely crafted leather holders, available in five fashionable colours, each containing the dinkiest, most darling bottles of Louis XIII Cognac The Drop. At 10ml each, they’re good to go wherever your travels take you. uk.louisxiii-cognac.com

SEVEN

SIX

Ladies, the next best thing to an ice-cold Martini? It might just be this limited-edition, gemtastic Peter Dundas x Grey Goose handbag adorned with Swarovski crystals. dundasworld.com

…prefer to be more discreet? This handsome fella is just the ticket for drinking with discretion. Hand-crafted, perfectly formed and, like the finest spirit, designed to get even better with age. Shinola x Vermont Copper Flask. shinola.com

Eating our drinks After-dinner drink or dessert. Why choose? With Xin and Voltaire luxury cocktail sorbets you can enjoy both. Four dreamy combos, each with a spirit measure of Champagne, whisky, mezcal and rum. What dinner parties were made for. xinandvoltaire.com 19 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 43

APERITIVO

TEN

Finding balance When you’re steering clear of the ABVs but still seeking a tipple with complex taste, stock up on Savyll’s, four pre-mixed, non-alc cocktails made with sober cocktail lovers in mind. savyll.com

PLAYING SMART

Now here’s a bright idea: wine and water in one party box – why hasn’t anyone thought of this before? Essential Water x House Wine Box. housewine.orderport.net

Going for bold

There’s a time and place for pared-back glassware, but the holiday season ain’t it. Unleash your inner maximalist and go for bold colour. Think Joseph and his Technicolour Dreamcoat and you’ve got the right idea. Glassware from a selection at libertylondon.co.uk

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TCL PARTNER

HIGHLY PROVIDENTIAL. COMPLETELY NATURAL. TOTALLY ORIGINAL

How a beautiful accident in Seville led to the creation of the original strawberry gin. (And how the same intuition and passion now brings new blackberry)

all it chance, luck or perhaps, most fittingly, providence. Sometimes things are just meant to be. It was certainly the case when two brothers in Seville decided to macerate fresh strawberries in alcohol to create a special ingredient for local patisseries. Come spring, the region’s heat had worked a little magic as the pressed strawberries had diluted into the alcohol giving it a deliciously appealing pink hue. Guided simply by intuition and passion the brothers were inspired to cultivate something totally new, distilled from natural ingredients, with no artificial flavourings or colourings. The result? The original strawberry gin. And today, the number two starwberry gin worldwide.

PUERTO DE INDIAS STRAWBERRY GIN

With a distinct blush pink tinge, it has the unmistakable aroma of fresh strawberries. As for taste, it’s a perfect balance of intense fruit and juniper with an elegant smooth finish. Puerto de Indias Strawberry Gin makes a deliciously different gin and tonic, and adds fresh strawberry notes to sangria.

INTRODUCING PUERTO DE INDIAS BLACKBERRY GIN

Now the same craftsmanship behind the strawberry gin comes to a new blackberry expression. Puerto de Indias Blackberry Gin is rich with fruity blackberry notes on the nose and a delicate

PUERTO DE INDIAS STRAWBERRY GIN PERFECT SERVE 50ml Puerto de Indias Strawberry Gin 200ml tonic or lemonade Fresh strawberries to garnish Method: Fill a large glass with ice, stir to chill and strain off any excess water. Add several slices of fresh strawberry, pour in Puerto de Indias Strawberry Gin, followed by tonic or lemonade and stir gently. #SpanishSpirit!

taste of violet and caramel with fresh citrus. Serve it refreshingly long with tonic or lemonade, or make it the base for a rich bramble cocktail. It is also interesting to note that over a third of visitors to Spain from the UK, who enjoyed drinking Puerto de Indias Strawberry gin during their trip, go on to recommend it when they return home. But even so we can all experience a little Spanish sunshine courtesy of Puerto de Indias gins. For further information visit ginpuertodeindias.com

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY 21

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P E X ELS - COT TON B RO STU D I O

Raising a glass to celebrations done right, for guests and hosts

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ASK THE EXPERT

IN THE

H TSEAT

The dos and don'ts of hosting and attending parties With Maggie Oldham, the original Modern Etiquette Coach and convention expert.

FOR HOSTS

DON’T If your plan is not to serve cocktails specifically, don’t call your event a cocktail party. Instead, the gathering could be called a party, reception, celebration, bash, etc. but leave out the term ‘cocktail. DO Send out invitations (electronic or paper) at least four weeks in advance for a formal cocktail party (with a larger guest list), or at least two weeks for a more casual event. Invitations should include the host’s name(s) date, time, location, RSVP method, deadline and dress code (if there is one!). DO Consider hiring a bartender. This relieves you of having to mix cocktails and prevents messy disasters that can happen when cocktails are ‘self-serve’. DO In addition to alcohol, have a variety of non-alcoholic beverages. This can be as simple as soft drinks/mixers, sparkling and still water. If you have a bartender, it’s helpful to have self-serve still water available. DON’T Forget the less-glamorous essentials. Napkins, ice, and a visible waste bin. You’d be surprised how often hosts forget these three very important elements. DO Make sure all sparkling wine, white wine, beer and mixers are chilled for at least two hours. DON’T Serve cocktails in incorrect stemware. For example, Champagne in a wine glass – use a flute or coupe. Don’t offer wine in a rocks glass, and certainly do not serve an old-fashioned in a Collins glass!

DO As the host greet all guests. Offer to take their coats and, of course, a beverage. DON’T Unless you have specific cultural rules/guidelines, ask guests to remove their shoes. If you don’t want people walking in their shoes in your home, don’t host a party. Or, take your party outdoors. DO Know graceful and classy ways to encourage guests to leave. This can be done by gradually turning on lights, turning down the music and beginning the clean-up. Guests will get the hint it’s time to leave when they see you putting dishes in the sink or tying up the rubbish. If none of these actions seems to be working, it’s totally fine to be honest and say (starting with your closest friends/ guests) “We’ve had such an incredible evening, but unfortunately we have to get up early tomorrow to [insert activity here]. We will definitely plan something again soon!”

GUESTS

DO If the invitation says RSVP, it is crucial to respond. The invitation is specifically and explicitly asking you to do so. If the invitation does not say RSVP, then it is not important to answer. If the invitation says RSVP with regrets only, then respond only if you cannot make it. If you’re a host asking for RSVPs, then be sure to include a by-date so that you don’t have responses trickling in at the last minute. As a guest, be sure to follow the by-date. DON’T forget to bring the host(s) a small gift or token of appreciation. However, this is on a case-by-case basis. Do: When the party is held in the host’s home or when are you attending a party

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outside of someone’s home in celebration of a guest of honour (birthday, retirement, anniversary, shower, etc). Don’t: When you are attending a party outside of someone’s home and it is not a celebration for a guest of honour or when the party is held in the host’s home but the invitation says “In lieu of gifts”. When you should bring a gift, what kind of gift to bring? If you know the host or guest of honour drinks, then a bottle of wine is always a welcome and safe bet. Otherwise, fresh flowers or a scented candle is a wonderful gift for any occasion. DO Hold your drink in your left hand throughout the party so that your right hand is free, warm, and dry for shaking others’ hands. DO Keep a plate or napkin in your hand if you plan to enjoy any passed hors d’oeuvres or canapés. This prevents dropping crumbs when taking a bite. The plate or napkin also serves as a place to discard toothpicks or other non-edibles that may come with the passed hors d’oeuvres. When taking a canapé, place it on your napkin or plate first before taking a bite. DO Allow the host(s) to make the first toast. If you are a guest, never announce to the other party guests that you would like to give a toast. If you are a guest and you would like to make a toast, first ask the host(s) if it would be OK. If they say it is, then ask for an appropriate time. You do not want to make the mistake of giving an unapproved toast seconds before the host comes out of the kitchen carrying a birthday cake with candles! maggieoldham.com

TCL PARTNER

MAKING MEMORIES

Six outstanding international bars. One extraordinary venue. Countless memories. Welcome to The Clumsies Legendary Bar

t’s early November in Athens. We’ve just enjoyed a walk across the city on a warm evening. Our destination is an elegant townhouse. We step across the threshold and into another world. A majestic marble staircase lies ahead, around which musicians set the mood. Lights are dimmed and all around are smiling, chattering guests. We’ve arrived at The Clumsies Legendary Bar. Yes, pop-ups and takeovers have become a thing in the cocktail world over recent years. Usually it’s about one great bar opening its doors to a team from another. All well and good. But always ready to think differently, the team behind multi award-winning bar The Clumsies had other ideas. As Lelos Georgopoulos, one fifth of that team, told us. “Back in 2016, after a conversation with my partners, we decided to organise a different kind of pop-up. Something that would make noise, make history, create memories! We’d always loved conceptual events and hit on the idea of bringing together the world’s best hotel bars for one night in Athens.” The result was The Clumsies Hotel Bar, featuring, among others, The American Bar at The Savoy, Nomad New York and Manhattan Bar, Singapore. If the ambition was to create

memories, they succeeded, big time. Those of us lucky enough to have been there still talk about it. And those that weren’t have certainly heard about it. Having set the bar high the following years saw the likes of The American Dream Bar, the rooftop Latin American Bar and The Tiki Bar that took us to the beach. A calendar highlight, both for the people of Athens and the international bartending community, the event returned this year after a two-year covid hiatus. Which brings us back to that November evening. THE CLUMSIES LEGENDARY BAR As the name suggests this year was a celebration of six iconic bars. And as in previous years the event’s success lies in the quality of the establishments they attract and the attention to detail. From the uniforms the bar teams wore, to the drinks they were mixing and the vibes each created, it was all about evoking the guest experience of those bars as they

“MAKE NOISE, MAKE HISTORY, CREATE MEMORIES!” LELOS GEORGOPOULOS, CO-OWNER THE CLUMSIES

MEMORIES ARE MADE OF… “Seeing all my international friends from the bar world again.” Konstantinos Ignatiadis, Bar Manager, Schumann’s

“Making over 700 drinks in three hours and showcasing Claridge’s and the Painters Room.” Denis Broci, Claridge’s Bars Manager

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popped up for just one night in Athens. And making new memories. Along with all the other guests we had just one, admittedly very difficult, decision to make. Where to start… LONDON, SINGAPORE, MIAMI, MUNICH AND BACK TO ATHENS Our first stop was Claridge’s and its newest addition, The Painter’s Room. Alongside the glamour and elegance of the hotel, the team brought artistry from menu design to drinks - each described by a single colour, such as the deliciously seductive Scarlett (Boatyard Gin, Mancino vermouth, Campari, tonic). Discerning drinkers everywhere have heard of Singapore’s Long Bar and now we all had a chance to get a sense of its 1920s style and savour its iconic Singapore Sling (Tanqueray No. Ten Gin, pineapple, cherry, Benedictine, triple sec and grenadine). Next we headed to Miami and La Trova. Bringing their retro Cuban feel the team acrobatically mixed their drinks throwing liquids from shaker to shaker.

To get a glimpse of this legendary evening just scan the code with your smartphone

Stand out? The exceptionally refreshing Buenavista (Tanqueray No. Ten Gin, elderflower, lime, sugar and cucumber). Back to Europe and Munich presented us with two choices – Schumann’s and Jahreszeiten Bar. The former, an old-school establishment, offered our favourite classics with a few twists, such as the surprising Pink Negroni (Tanqueray No. Ten Gin, Campari, Mancino Rosso, pink grapefruit soda). As for the latter it brought a touch of its renowned American bar style luxury, not least with its elegant Low and Green (Mancino Secco, green apple, olives and Fino sherry). We rounded things off fittingly at local legend Jazz In Jazz. A celebration of jazz culture in music and cocktails it opened in the Greek capital in 1978 and is still a family concern as witnessed with the founder’s nephew on hand to serve us a beautiful Boulevardier (Bulleit Bourbon, Campari, Mancino Rosso). ANOTHER LEGENDARY NIGHT Once again The Clumsies had created a

THE LEGENDS, AS DEFINED BY THE CLUMSIES A LIVING LEGEND: SCHUMANN’S, MUNICH A LEGEND IN ITS OWN TIME: LONG BAR, SINGAPORE URBAN LEGEND: LA TROVA, MIAMI PURELY LEGENDARY: JAZZ IN JAZZ, ATHENS THE STUFF LEGENDS ARE MADE OF: JAHRESZEITEN BAR, MUNICH LEGENDARY TRADITION: THE PAINTER’S ROOM AT CLARIDGE’S, LONDON

night to remember. But all good things must come to an end. We could console ourselves, however, with the knowledge that The Clumsies pop-up will be back next year. What’s in store? Maybe Lelos would give us a hint. “Who knows? Stay tuned.” That’s good enough for us. After all, The Clumsies themselves are absolute legends. To find out more about The Clumsies' previous pop-ups see The Cocktail Lovers magazine; issues 19 (Hotel), 23 (American Dream), 28 (Latin American) and 32 (Tiki) thecocktaillovers.com/ magazine. theclumsies.gr

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Even when they're off duty our favourite bartenders like to mix up something special for friends and family Adrian Michalcik

Global Winner World Class Bartender of the Year 2022 and Bar Manager, Pier 42, Oslo “This is a warm, comforting, hug-in-amug type of drink that I prepare for my friends and family in the days leading up to Christmas. The recipe is for one serving, but is easy enough to multiply. I recommend preparing at least 10 portions since it is delicious and meant to be enjoyed with your closest ones.”

Festive punch 30ml Cognac or your favourite dark spirit 30ml masala tea* 20ml butterscotch syrup

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15ml fresh lemon juice 15ml fresh orange juice 25ml milk Method: First prepare a tea macerate with a ratio: 2.5g of tea to 100ml of boiling water for 10 minutes. When ready, mix all ingredients, except for the milk, in a container. Warm milk in a pan and pour into the mix. Leave to rest in a fridge overnight and strain across a paper (coffee) filter. Pour into a bottle and chill. Serve over a nice block of ice and garnish with red ribbon.

PEOPLE

Yhanna Prado

Bar Manager, Monk, Barcelona “Personally, I like to make cocktails with brandy for the Christmas season because it’s a very warm and versatile spirit. The acorn liqueur and figs in this mix complement the smoothness and sweetness in the brandy, while the pineapple water and lime provide the ideal acidity for balance. I would share it with a seasonal fruit and spice punch with friends and a nice Christmas dinner.”

Drew Fleming

Winner of 50 Best Bars Blend Scholarship and General Manager, Kiki Lounge, Isle of Man “You can’t beat an eggnog during the holiday season. It has to be rich and creamy with a dusting of nutmeg to really get the festive spirit going. I also add a couple of dashes of walnut bitters and finish with a walnut for an extra comforting taste. I’ll be serving this to my family on Christmas Eve.”

Warm Snow 60ml Torres 10 Double Barrel Reserva Imperial Brandy 20ml Spanish Acorn Liquor 2 bar spoons of fig jam with cinnamon 35ml pineapple water 30ml lime juice 5ml Paragon Timur Berry Cordial Dried pineapple with fig reduction to garnish

50/50 Eggnog 25ml Martell VS Cognac 25ml Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon 25ml double cream 10ml 2:1 sugar solution 2 dashes Black Walnut Bitters 1 whole egg Nutmeg Walnut to garnish

Method: Shake ingredients over ice. Fine strain into a chilled Old Fashioned glass with a large clear ice cube. Garnish with dried pineapple with fig reduction

Method: Shake all ingredients over ice and double strain into a decorative glass before topping with grated nutmeg and walnut.

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Gabi Gershator

co-founder, Mixology Team, Tel Aviv “In the run-up to Hanukkah we make a drink that I’m always happy to share during this special time. “Hanukkah speaks of the victory of the few over the many, for a miracle helped by a small tin of oil light that was lit for 8 days. It is customary to light a candle for eight consecutive evenings and eat deepfried jam doughnuts. “I’ve taken the customs of the holiday and what they symbolise to create this cocktail. Happy holiday and lehaem!”

Flee the Maccabees 60ml Elit vodka washed with olive oil 15ml honey liqueur 15ml fresh lime juice 10ml vanilla, ginger, black pepper and cardamom syrup Strawberry paste and a small basil leaf to garnish Method: Shake ingredients over ice. Double strain into a Nick & Nora glass tapped with a strawberry paste on the inside of the glass. Top with the basil leaf.

Georgia Georgakopoulou Bar Manager, The Clumsies, Athens

“I love gatherings at home on New Year’s Eve. I call really close friends, colleagues and sometimes family, if they are in Athens, as my family home is in Arcadia. “We all know on that evening people enjoy bubbles or bubbly drinks. Myself, I prefer to start the night with a glass of Champagne and move on to a cocktail with Champagne. So this New Year’s Eve I’ll be serving a twist on a French 75, as always supporting and using Greek products that will add complexity to the cocktail.”

French 75 5ml triple sec 10ml simple syrup (1:1) 20ml freshly squeezed lemon juice 50ml Votanikon Gin Amalia Brut Champagne Lemon oil to garnish Method: Shake first four ingredients over ice. Fine strain into a chilled Champagne glass. Top with Champagne and garnish with the oils of a lemon peel. Enjoy welcoming the New Year! Tip: If you don’t have bar equipment, add 20ml of still water to the first four ingredients and store in a bottle or jar. Chill in the fridge and when ready, pour into a chilled Champagne glass, top up with Champagne and garnish.

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PEOPLE

Leon Wilkes Back

Head of Mixology, Commons Club, Edinburgh “Christmas is a special time of year in our house. My wife and I have a few drinks we serve during the festivities, but this is one we call on most and always share together, usually on Christmas morning with breakfast – this is the time we have before working in the evening. A garibaldi to me is a perfect all-day cocktail. Light, refreshing and bitter.”

Garibaldi 30ml frozen Campari Fluffy orange juice Method: Peel two oranges, remove pith and juice until you have a fluffy texture – I use a high-speed centrifuge juicer. Pour over the Campari and blend.

ms. franky marshall, Modern bartender/educator, New York

“As I don’t often get to see family during the holidays, they asked me to give them a cocktail recipe they could make and enjoy themselves. “Cranberry sauce is always around the house this time of year, and they love anything with ginger, so I came up with this. Make as a single serve, or scale up to a festive punch bowl.”

Ginger Bells 1 tbsp cranberry sauce 7.5ml date syrup 15ml Amaro Nonino 45ml spirit* 45–60ml good quality, dry ginger beer 3 fresh cranberries to garnish Method: Add ingredients to the mixing tin. Stir well until sauce is incorporated. Shake with ice and fine strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice. Top with ginger beer and garnish with cranberries. *This cocktail can be made with aged rum, Armagnac, bourbon, Calvados, Cognac... Choose your own holiday adventure! For a non-alcoholic version, skip the spirits, double the ginger beer (to taste) and add a slice of lemon with cranberries to garnish. Santé!

Keith Motsi,

Head Bartender & Beverage Operations, Four Seasons Hotel, Tokyo “For our guests at the bar this year, we will be serving a festive-forward Negroni laced with pomegranate. It will also be making an appearance at my house, served for any festive soirées. It’s a simple but extremely delicious recipe.”

Pomegranate Negroni 1 part gin 1 part Punt e Mes 1 part Campari Fresh pomegranate water* Pomegranate seeds to garnish

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Method: To make the pomegranate water, juice the pomegranates and combine with equal amount of mineral water . Combine all ingredients over ice. Add pomegranate seeds and allow to rest in the fridge until ready to serve.

TCL PARTNER

ICONIC HERITAGE. SUSTAINABLE FUTURE

able to provide a vital platform with the common aim of protecting and expanding organic Trinitario cocoa production.

How Angostura with the launch of its latest exceptional bitters was inspired to create an ambitious programme supporting the independent farmers of its homeland

he year was 2020. A highly significant one for iconic bitters brand Angostura and its home, Trinidad and Tobago. In part, this was due to the news it was releasing only its third bitters edition in its 199-year history. First came the original Angostura Aromatic Bitters in 1824, then the second incarnation, Angostura Orange Bitters, in 2007, and two years ago Angostura Cocoa Bitters was welcomed into the world. With Cocoa Bitters, Angostura has given bars, restaurants and homes around the world a unique, new ingredient with which to create delicious drinks and dishes. But it is also a celebration of the company’s commitment to local industries and to the bitters’ key ingredient: Trinitario cocoa. This launch marked the beginning of a significant

initiative for the farmers of Trinidad and Tobago. WHAT IS TRINITARIO COCOA? A local agricultural treasure of Trinidad and Tobago, Trinitario is coveted for its bold, fruity characteristics, and depth of aroma and flavour. Hardly surprising, then, that Angostura selected it for its new bitters. With two centuries of blending expertise, the result is exceptional – reflected in accolades and awards. But, it’s important to note that Trinitario cocoa had for some time faced a number of challenges. And this is where that clever initiative comes in.

HOW IT WORKS At the heart of the programme is a focus on farmer education and empowerment to support the survival of the cocoa, as Angostura CEO, Ian Forbes, explains. “The quality of our local cocoa is a source of great pride and inspiration for the creation of our Angostura Cocoa Bitters. Working closely with farmers we were able to understand more about issues in the cocoa industry and wanted to help with some solutions to support sustainable farming and growth. Like Angostura, cocoa has been an important part of Trinidad’s story for almost 200 years, and as part of our collective cultural heritage it’s imperative we protect it.” And protect it they will

ANGOSTURA COCOA BITTERS SUSTAINABLE FUTURE PROGRAMME By joining forces with two very special partners Angostura was

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ANGOSTURA COCOA BITTERS With the company’s instantly recognisable packaging, Angostura Cocoa Bitters has been crafted to inspire creativity in bars, restaurants and at home. Adding richness to savoury and sweet dishes, and complexity to classic and contemporary cocktails, like the Espresso Martini. Espresso Martini 45ml vodka 15ml coffee liqueur 30ml espresso coffee 15ml simple syrup (1-1) 6 dashes Angostura Cocoa Bitters Coffee bean to garnish with an impressive two-stage programme. PART ONE: PARTNERING WITH ORGANIC EXPERTS Sustainable Future begins with a special partnership between Angostura Cocoa Bitters and Übergreen Organics that will establish three organic cocoa nurseries and clonal gardens, providing healthy, productive, disease and drought-resilient varieties of Trinitario cocoa plants. The nurseries will produce vital data and insights

on soil conditions, microclimates and other factors on tree productivity. In addition, they will make over 1,000 plants available each month to help increase the potential income of farmers in rural communities. Übergreen Organics will also train farmers on a wide range of topics, including nursery management, organic certification and how to use new technologies. “In the past, yields of cocoa plants in Trinidad and Tobago have been extremely low, many

Method: Pour all ingredients into a cocktail shaker, add ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a coffee bean.

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times lower than the global average,” says Übergreen Organics’ Rene Sperber. “This has made farming on the islands unsustainable, but the new nursery plantings will provide farmers with plants that yield higher quantities of healthy, quality cocoa fruit, helping them increase income and reduce risk.” PART TWO: SHARING THE STORY ON FILM The Story Behind Trinitario Cocoa, directed by digital storytelling expert Denise Speck, explores the challenges and opportunities of the cocoa and chocolate business in Trinidad and Tobago. The documentary examines the risks to the industry, such as the effects of climate change and the fact younger generations are seeking opportunities beyond farming. As Denise explains, “There is huge global consumer demand for unique, single-origin, fully traceable, high-quality produce. Trinidad and Tobago has this with Trinitario, but until now small-scale producers haven’t been able to effectively tell their stories. And storytelling is essential within responsible supply chains, adding value at every stage of that chain.” THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT There’s clearly a lot of work to be done to secure a positive and sustainable future for the farmers of Trinidad and Tobago, and the Trinitario cocoa they so lovingly cultivate. But the commitment from Angostura and partners suggests a Sustainable Future bodes very well indeed. It’s a future worth raising a glass to, with Angostura Cocoa Bitters, of course. To find out more about Angostura Cocoa Bitters visit angosturabitters.com

PLEASE ENJOY ANGOSTURA PRODUCTS RESPONSIBLY

The bar cart has got its groove back. Vanessa Dina shares some tips for styling yours for the holiday season

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TROLLIES

bottles in a festive colour on the top shelf to bring out the holiday theme. * Sparkling wine should have a permanent home on the bar cart during the holidays; celebratory Champagne cocktails and glasses of bubbly are a must. * For a no-fuss approach, string towering birch branches with twinkling lights to lend a glimmering ambiance to a room.

an we talk about drinks trollies? Or bar carts as they’re more grandly known? Whether you’re winding down with a well-earned Negroni after work or mixing things up for a crowd, the making of a drink, any drink, becomes more of a ritual, more theatrical when conducted from a dedicated space. Think of it as a shrine to cocktail time. The next best thing to being out in a bar. Here, Vanessa Dina, design director, party planning expert and author of The Art of the Bar Cart shares two main themes and four simple tips to get yours dressed and ready for entertaining.

The Whimsical Cart (left)

Details are important. Hand-painted bar accessories, like a marbled dish to display vintage tools (below), add a unique touch. The Art of the Bar Cart is published by chroniclebooks.com

The Holiday Cart (main page) * Keep a variety of glassware styles on your cart to serve different types of beverages at your holiday gatherings. If you like to throw large parties consider thick, goblet-like Champagne flutes instead of delicate stemware. * Display colour-coordinated liquor

PH OTOGR A P HS A N TONI S AC H I LL EOS

Bringing the bar home

The Art Deco-esque one Stirling drinks trolley, £349, atkinandthyme.com

The recycled one

The budget one

Eve gold and teal upcycled drinks trolley, £550, ebandgray.com

Rose gold drinks trolley, £29.99, sueryder.org/shop

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The glam one

Rockefeller drinks trolley, £330, atkinandthyme.com

PERFECT PAIRINGS

If you really want to boss it in the hosting department, you’ve got to do more than nail the cocktails. André Darlington shares some tips on the best bites to serve with your drinks Photography Neal Santos

When Mrs Julius S. Walsh Jr. of St. Louis, Missouri, hosted one of the first cocktail parties on record, in the spring of 1917, she could not have predicted how it would spark a trend that has become a celebration beloved around the world. She also had no way of knowing that, three years later, alcohol would be banned in the United States, forcing cocktails into precisely the kind of crowded private-party atmosphere

where convivial conversation and passed snacks entwine. In fact, we have Prohibition to thank for the development of American finger foods – those small items served to inebriated speakeasy customers, such as devilled eggs, radish roses, shrimp toasts, and cheese balls. Sending cocktails underground did not stop the drinking; it blurred the lines between bar and home making cocktail parties fashionable. If you’re planning on hosting a cocktail party, or dinner with cocktails, here are a few tips to take into consideration and a few suggested pairings to get you started.

Tips for pairing cocktails with food Use cocktails to enhance flavours in the food and vice versa

Whisk(e)y and steak works, whiskey and oysters does not. Know your flavours to bring out the best in both food and drink.

Big flavours complement other big flavours

Blue cheese loves a good cocktail thanks to the intense flavours of both. Fats also love alcohol, so fatty foods, such as cheese and creambased desserts, will sing an aria together with mixed drinks.

Sweet loves salty. And bitter

Create flavour Pay attention bridges and to body A light cocktail is use your often the perfect aromatics

Cocktails made with Campari or other amaros can be great foils for food that is sweet, such as desserts – but also salty snacks. Don’t discount a Negroni with salty meat, for example.

Dill in a salad? Try aquavit as a base and add some dill to the cocktail. Mint and basil can make a big difference when pairing drinks to food. Also, keep an eye on citrus. If a dish goes better with lemon rather than lime, don’t expect gimlets to be a wow pairing.

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lift for heavy food, but heavy cocktails can also be lifted by a refreshing bite.

When in doubt, make a sour

Much of the food around the world is highly flavourful and contains a myriad of balanced elements. If you haven’t tried something before, chances are it will pair with a daiquiri.

FOOD & DRINK

Vegetables TO EAT

Kombu Cucumber (serves 4-6) 2 medium-size cucumbers, peeled 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 tsp soy sauce 1 tbsp furikake (available from Asian grocery stores or online) Cut cucumbers in half lengthwise and remove seeds. Cut into ¼in strips. In a medium-size bowl, toss cucumber, sesame oil, soy sauce and furikake. PAIR WITH

Sake 75 30ml gin 25ml fresh lemon juice 15ml simple syrup 60ml sparkling sake Lemon twist for garnish Shake gin, lemon juice and simple syrup over ice and strain into a cocktail glass or Champagne flute. Top with sparkling sake and garnish with a lemon twist.

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Chicken TO EAT

Toki Chicken Nuggets (serves 4-6) 2 tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced 4 garlic cloves, minced 125ml soy sauce 60ml sake 1 tbsp sugar 1kg boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1in pieces 40g potato starch 720ml peanut or vegetable oil Lemon wedges for serving In a large bowl, combine ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sake and sugar. Add chicken and stir to coat thoroughly. Cover and marinate in refrigerator for 1 hour. Drain chicken from marinade and return chicken to bowl. Add potato starch and stir to coat chicken completely. In a saucepan, heat oil over medium-high to 365ºF/185ºC. Working in batches, fry chicken until crispy and cooked through, about 3 minutes each piece. Transfer to a wire rack or plates lined with paper towels to drain. Serve with lemon wedges. PAIR WITH

Toki Highball 30ml whisky 120ml club soda/soda water Lemon wedge to garnish In a chilled Highball glass, combine whisky and club soda. Stir gently and garnish with a lemon wedge.

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FOOD & DRINK

Dessert TO EAT

Almond, Date and Fig Balls 2 tbsp sugar ¼ tsp ground cinnamon 200g toasted almonds 200g dried figs 200g pitted dates In a shallow bowl, mix sugar and cinnamon. In a food processor, combine almonds, figs and dates until finely ground. Form mixture into tablespoon-size balls and roll in the sugar mixture. Serve immediately or store in a sealed container in layers of waxed paper. PAIR WITH

Coffee Cocktail 90ml ruby port 30ml brandy 1 bar spoon simple syrup 1 small egg Freshly grated nutmeg for garnish Dry shake (no ice) port, brandy, simple syrup and egg. Add ice, shake again, and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with nutmeg.

Adapted from Bar Menu: 100+ Drinking Food Recipes for Cocktail Hours at Home by André Darlington (Running Press, £20)

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DID SOMEONE SAY PARTY?

From swanky hotels to dimly lit dive bars, celebrating in whatever style you want is thankfully back on the cards. Millie Milliken picks out some of the best bars from around the globe to do just that

don’t think it’s an overstatement to say we deserve a good party. Without dwelling on the past few rollercoaster years, there is certainly an appetite to blow off some steam. Luckily, the wonderful international bar industry is ready and raring to welcome us all with open arms. How we celebrate can come in many forms – chilled drinks with friends, a chance to dress up and treat ourselves or a full-on party. It’s a tricky line to tread for bars too – to match atmosphere with well turned-out cocktails and menus that evoke good times, and roll them out at speed and, sometimes, volume. So, I’ve scoured the best bars in the world – from upmarket hotels to all-out dancing dens for a list that will hopefully provide some inspiration for your festivity-focused needs. And don’t forget: have fun!

SYDNEY

Maybe Sammy Entertainment comes in spades at arguably Australia’s most famous bar, Maybe Sammy. Riffing on the glamour of the Rat Pack, Hollywood razzle dazzle and the glitz of 1950s Las Vegas, the bar mixes white jackets with colour-popping drinks and a chance to carouse in relaxed style. And it doesn’t get more stylish than a trolley featuring four versions of the Martini: Classic, Dirty, Gibson and the Australian (Sipsmith, vermouth bianco, lemon myrtle and mango). There is also a selection of dinky classic cocktail minis and a befitting range of cocktails using vintage spirits. Then there’s the coffee, an Australian favourite and just the ticket for more pep in your step as festivities ramp up. maybesammy.com

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PARTY BARS

NEW YORK CITY

Overstory While the city that never sleeps is awash with award-winning bars, when it comes to celebrating in style, the place to head to is the aptly named Overstory. Or, literally, head up to. Sitting on the 64th floor of art-deco 70 Pine Street in NYC’s Financial District, the bar’s wrap-around terrace means 360-degree views of the city’s iconic skyline are on the menu. Overstory’s cocktails befit the classy AF surrounds with old classics given a twist and originals speaking volumes for the talent behind the bar. In the Clouds with whiskey, Earl Grey tea, vanilla, Champagne and clarified milk is dreamily slick and encapsulates the vibe here – top-tier drinking in velvet flares. overstory-nyc.com

PARIS

Lulu White Any bar with a tagline ‘Absinthe & Dancing’ deserves to be on a party-bar go-to. And Lulu White in Paris’ gorgeous Montmartre takes inspiration from the watering holes of cocktail nirvana, New Orleans. Parties in this dolls-house-esque drinking spot come with a side serving of 1920s glam with live jazz, blues and contemporary folk

music, plus a late close of 4am at weekends. It has the feel of a bar that time forgot – but with a high-calibre team behind it and it is one of the city’s most accomplished yet fun cocktail havens, attracting those in the know. The tagline doesn’t disappoint with contemporary mixes laced with old worldly spirits like absinthe and pastis, but there are other surprising options too such as Hurricane slushies and Miami Vices. luluwhite.bar

CARTAGENA

Alquimico Alquimico feels like the party people’s Mecca. Three floors of epic good times and great cocktails are a given, but, it also manages to do the often impossible – combine award-winning drinks with super-high volume. Inside, it looks like Baz Luhrmunn has been let loose with the balconied building’s bars festooned with plants, neon lights and dramatic back bars. On the bottom floor, the limelight belongs to the tenders working from a central bar; more classic cocktails can be enjoyed on the first floor and a rooftop bar makes the perfect space for a cool down with Tiki-style drinks. Bartender co-owner Jean Trinh has been instrumental in creating a cocktail list that champions the natural and local ingredients of Columbia, getting most from his farm in the country’s coffee region – now that’s something to beat the drum about. alquímico.com

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PARTY BARS

HONG KONG

The Pontiac One of Asia’s most lauded cocktail cities, Hong Kong is not short of revered bars to let loose in and The Pontiac is where great cocktails and great chaos ensue. Headed by Jen Queen and Beckaly Franks, it exudes big dive-bar energy with a menu of well-honed and goddam delicious drinks, such as its signature Hobnail (Scotch, ginger, Averna bitters and orange oil). It’s also worth mentioning that the progressive bar offers a safe and inclusive space for every customer that walks through its doors. Safe fun should never be overrated. Oh, and you’d better believe it will be as lit behind the bar as it is in front – expect a proper party, People. thepontiac.com

LONDON

Beaufort Bar at The Savoy Is it even a celebration without caviar bumps? The answer is no. And that’s just one of the reasons why the recently reopened Beaufort Bar at London’s iconic Savoy has made the list. Its new menu is fittingly called Nocturne – an ode to the thrills that can happen in the dark – with dramatic black and gold interiors matching the ambience. It also pays homage to the hotel’s links to the Champagne region: that’s right, this is bubbly central. Menu highlights include the Golden Apple Champagne Cocktail with rye whiskey, Courvoisier XO cognac, Calvados, red toffee apple and vanilla syrup, Laurent-Perrier Champagne and, wait for it, a 24k sugar cube garnish. Late-night parties come with DJs too, and the dress code? Dress to impress. thesavoylondon.com/restaurant/beaufort-bar

MEXICO CITY

Hanky Panky It’s not a party without a bar from Mexico City and this hidden portal has a heartbeat that has transformed it from members-only to – lucky for us – one open to its baying public. This is a place to kick up your heels: take a pew at the bar or gather with friends in a community-feels environment. Plush red leather, curious knick-knacks, multiple levels, cavernous corners, smoke, fire, neon – there is plenty going on in here if you want to feel you’re in your own little world. And the drinks are, naturally, exemplary, taking inspiration from travels and flavours that bar manager Gina Barbachano and head bartender Ismael Martinez translate into their wonderful slice of Mexico. hankypanky.mx

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MADRID

Silver Lyan

Salmon Guru

Nothing says you’ve made it, like drinking in a bank vault, which is what you’ll find in this beautiful bar at Riggs hotel in Washington DC. Created by the illustrious Mr Lyan team, this sultry, plush bar is a hotel drinking destination with a let-your-hair-down edge. Sure you can live it up with the Presidential Gift, a cocktail using a ‘very old’ Aberfeldy singlecask Scotch, DC honey and applejacked bitters for $375, but the entire cocktail list shimmers with exciting ingredients. If it’s actual shimmer you’re after they have a disco-themed New Year’s Eve extravaganza planned, too. Private parties happen in the vault, The Cabinet Room, but more relaxed affairs come with DJs and a chilled party atmosphere. silverlyan.com

For a truly memorable affair, look no further than Salmon Guru, which has been injecting fun into Madrid’s drinking scene since 2016. This is where mad glassware comes to live, with Digeo Cabrera’s cocktail menu featuring some pretty nutso vessels filled with fruity, restorative, sour and sweet and small, but powerful, sips. Open at its latest till 2.30am, Salmon Guru looks the part too, with comic book-style signs, gleaming copper, neon artwork, zebra-print curtains – oh, and a rambunctious team of talented bartenders to boot. You’d be hard pressed to find anywhere as full of fun and flavour, so if you find yourself in Madrid, head straight here and be prepared for an eyeful. salmonguru.es

WASHINGTON DC

SAN JUAN

La Factoria Low-lit, rustic and free-flowing, La Factoria in San Juan feels like the sort of place you could take your dancing shoes to let rip or enjoy a quiet celebration with a loved one all at the same time – and maybe even on the same night. And that’s the beauty of this Puerto Rican drinking destination where

rum punches, lavender mules and spiced old fashioneds are matched with sparkling wines from around the world. The bar has six spaces in which guests can enjoy awardwinning cocktails. Its main bar La Facto is the place to start before moving into Vino for those bubbles, Shing A’ling for a salsa boogie, El Final if techno is your jam, La Cubanita for a breather, and finally El Desvio for some candlelit intimacy. lafactoriapr.com

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WAYS WITH WHISTLEPIG RYE

A serve for any occasion with the original cocktail whiskey

he list of ways in which to enjoy WhistlePig rye whiskey is practically endless. Long and light, on the rocks or straight up. Kicking off a lazy brunch, making something a little sweeter, rounding off a luxurious evening… Hardly surprising. When, back in the 1860s, classic cocktails called for whiskey, they were almost certainly mixed with rye. Fast forward to 2008 and the launch of WhistlePig rye gave drinkers the very best in rye whiskey. And the most versatile.

This award-winning libation meant those cocktail classics could be recreated in all their original, rich glory. And, thanks to WhistlePig’s complexity, it also lends itself to countless contemporary twists. Moreover, it inspires endless creativity for new cocktails. So, whatever the occasion, whatever the mood, WhistlePig has a simple to make but complex tasting serve. Here are just a few to inspire you. Then it’s time to get creative…

FOR WINE LOVERS

MAPLE NEW YORK SOUR 60ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 15ml maple syrup 30ml lemon juice 15ml fruity red wine

THE PERFECT SERVE

MAPLE OLD FASHIONED 45ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 5ml maple syrup 3 dashes maple bitters Orange peel to garnish Method: Add all ingredients in an Old Fashioned glass filled with ice. Stir and garnish with fresh orange peel.

Method: Add all ingredients, except the red wine, to a shaker and add ice. Shake and strain into a rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Carefully pour the red wine over the back of a spoon held above the drink to create a float.

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SOMETHING LIGHT

SMOKED LEMONADE 45ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 30ml fresh lemon juice 30ml simple syrup Candied lemon to garnish* Method: Shake all ingredients over ice and strain into an ice-filled glass. Garnish with candied lemon. * To make candied lemon. Brush slices of fresh lemon with simple syrup. Grill to caramelise and allow to cool.

TCL PARTNER

60ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 30ml sweet vermouth 2 dashes Angostura bitters 2 dashes walnut bitters (optional) 15 grams ground coffee Maraschino cherry to garnish

60ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 15ml maple syrup 550ml Ben & Jerry’s Whiskey Biz™ Topped Ice Cream 15ml amaretto 25ml Giffard Vanille De Madagascar 3 dashes Angostura cocoa bitters Ground cinnamon to garnish

COFFEE TIME

MANHATTAN CAFÉ

6 whistlepigwhiskey.com

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

SERIOUSLY SERIOUS

VIEUX CARRÉ

25ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 25ml Cognac 25ml sweet vermouth 1 bar or tsp Benedictine liqueur 2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters 2 dashes Angostura bitters Lemon peel to garnish Method: Stir ingredients over ice and strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with lemon twist.

Method: Stir all ingredients except coffee over ice. Place a chilled coupe glass under a coffee dripper and slowly pour the chilled mix through the filter containing the ground coffee. Let the cocktail drip through. Serve in chilled coupe glass and garnish with maraschino cherry.

CLASSIC TWIST

CINNAMON SPICED OLD FASHIONED 45ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 15ml cinnamon simple syrup 2 dashes orange bitters Orange peel to garnish Method: Shake the WhistlePig 10 Year Old and syrup over ice and strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Add the orange bitters and garnish with orange peel.

BRUNCH DATE

THIS LITTLE PIGGY CAN’T GO TO THE MARKET 60ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch Dash orange bitters 25ml white wine aperitif Orange to garnish Method: Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into an icefilled rocks glass. Garnish with orange twist.

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DESERT-WORTHY

FIRE AND ICE... CREAM

Method: Mix all ingredients, except ground cinnamon, in a blender until it reaches desired consistency. Pour into a tiki mug and garnish with cinnamon.

WINTER WARMER…

HOG TODDY

45ml WhistlePig 10 Year Old Small Batch 150ml spiced apple cider* 30ml hot water 1 stick of cinnamon to garnish Orange twist to garnish Method: Combine ingredients in a teacup and garnish with cinnamon stick and orange twist.

SPICED APPLE CIDER 1lt pressed apple juice 4 cinnamon sticks 20ml honey 60ml lemon juice Handful all spice 2 cloves Method: Bring ingredients to boil and simmer for about 15 mins. Strain and allow to cool.

SLUG HERE

ANYTIME ANYWHERE ANYHOW Making great cocktails at home is all about attitude

Photography Drinks stylist Retoucher Props

Joe Brayford Troels Knudsen Fran Hughes June Lawrence

Punch

Celebrating a birthday or an anniversary. Or maybe the fact it’s Friday. Or Monday. Or Wednesday. A carefully planned evening or a spur-of-the-moment get-together with a group of friends or simply someone special. Making great cocktails doesn’t have to be a big production. Just make sure you’ve got the best ingredients, grab whatever kit you’ve got to hand and you’re good to go!

Ingredients

Forget those, anything goes punches of your youth and make something proper. Use good quality ingredients, including a few berries or other chopped fresh fruit, and get creative. (Just remember to stick to the ratios.) As for serving, a jug is as good as a bowl, grab a soup ladle and dig out some of granny’s old tea cups.

350ml rum, whisky, gin, vodka or whatever spirit you fancy 500ml cooled tea or cold water 100ml lemon juice 100ml sugar syrup 5 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters

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Method Combine all ingredients in a large bowl or jug. Stir and set aside. When ready to serve add ice, ideally one large block*. *If you’re super organised fill a large plastic ice cream tub with water and leave to freeze overnight. A big block of ice keeps the punch nice and cold, but melts more slowly than lots of cubes.

PHOTOSTORY

Champagne Cocktail

Yes, a classic Champagne cocktail is usually served in a fancy flute, but there’s something about an old-fashioned saucer or coupe that just makes us feel a little more sophisticated, think old-school movie star. As for the fizz, a good sparkling wine will do instead of Champagne, but avoid prosecco as the finished drink would be too sweet when combined with the sugar. Ingredients

1 sugar cube (preferably Demerara) Angostura aromatic bitters 10ml Cognac (optional) 75ml sparkling wine Orange peel to garnish Method Drop a sugar cube into your glass and saturate it with the bitters. If you’re feeling flush add a little Cognac. Then fill the glass slowly and carefully with the sparking wine. Garnish with a little twist of orange peel.

Dry Martini

Stirring gin and vermouth reverentially in an elaborate crystal mixing glass is truly a thing of wonder. But the desired chill and dilution can be obtained just as easily in a cafetière – it even comes with a built in strainer! And don’t worry about matching Martini glasses. Use a mismatched mix of vintage glasses snapped up for a bargain at your local charity shop. Ingredients

60ml gin or vodka 20ml dry vermouth Olive or lemon peel to garnish Method Stir ingredients for 30 seconds or so until chilled and a little diluted. Strain into chilled glasses. Garnish with olives, lemon twist or even both.

PHOTOSTORY

Negroni

One of the easiest drinks to make, just equal measures of gin, sweet vermouth and bitters. But who wants to be in the kitchen all night mixing them up? Instead, fill a nice bottle in advance and you’re ready to pour like the fabulous host you are. (And it’ll keep for ages in the fridge, too.) Ingredients

200ml London Dry Gin 200ml sweet vermouth 200ml Campari Orange to garnish Method Carefully pour all ingredients into a clean bottle. Seal, shake gently to combine and leave until ready to serve. Then just pour into glasses filled with ice. Garnish with a twist or slice of orange.

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Non-alcoholic Highball

No alc, no problem. Gone are the days when a lack of alcohol meant a lack of interest in the glass. Today there’s a world of tasty non-alcoholic spirits available. Choose your favourite and get creative with soda, tonic or other mixers. Garnish with a squeeze of citrus (lemon, orange, grapefruit) and finish with some fresh herbs. Ingredients

50ml non-alcoholic spirit Flavoured soda, tonic or other sparkling mixer Selection of fresh citrus and herbs to garnish Method FiIll a tall glass with ice. Pour in the non-alcoholic spirit and top with sparkling mixer. Stir gently. Squeeze a wedge of citrus over the glass and drop in. Finish with a fragrant herb such as lemon thyme. Thanks to Clockwise Bromley for the location and Troels Knudsen, June Lawrence and Katherine Woodward for hand modelling.

Special deliveries When money is no object, these are the bottles worth splashing out on Whisky HIBIKI BLOSSOM HARMONY

They say “The 2022 Hibiki Blossom Harmony is a limited-edition blend made with whiskies finished in Sakura (cherry blossom) casks, an innovation that pays tribute to a traditional Japanese moment of celebration.” We say “Joy in a glass, this light, bright expression starts with a delicious floral bouquet that takes the taste buds on a journey encompassing candied citrus, honey and deep, rich chocolate notes.” 43% ABV, 70cl, RRP £175

BOWMORE MASTER’S SELECTION ASTON MARTIN 22 YEAR OLD They say “Rooted in intentionality, we make our whiskies this way on purpose, shaping every drop, adding depth and distinction of flavour to shape our multidimensional single malt.” We say “What happens when two masters of their craft come together? Bowmore + Aston Martin = pouring perfection.” 51.5% ABV, 70cl, RRP £390

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ABERFELDY RED WINE CASK COLLECTION

They say “First matured in a combination of refill casks, and then finished in exTuscan Red Wine barriques, sourced from Bolgheri in Italy.” We say “Whisky and wine definitely hit the right notes with us, or let’s say – single malt whisky finished in Cabernet Sauvignon wine casks does. Sip it and be seduced.” 43% ABV, 70cl, RRP £95

NEW PRODUCTS

Sparklers EXTON PARK PINOT MEUNIER ROSÉ PLOT 4 They say “This beautiful new wine encapsulates the very best of Exton Park: its unique terroir, pure chalk soils, meticulous growing and production methods, and its progressive approach to winemaking.” We say “25 years and patience in the making, the time has definitely been worth it. If you were ever in doubt about the quality of English wines, this 100% Pinot Meunier beauty will put you right. Delicious as an aperitif.” 11% ABV, 70cl, RRP £95

Gin BEEFEATER CROWN JEWEL

They say “Inspired by the iconic jewels housed in the Tower of London, this modern re-imagining of a rare gem embodies London’s timeless spirit.” We say “Amen to that! After 20 years, the bartender’s (and our) favourite gin is back – with its original clarity, full rounded body and a new rich ruby red bottle. #love.” 50% ABV, 1L, £60

Rum ANGOSTURA ZENITH

Cognac

They say “The extraordinary blend of Angostura and Caroni aged rums delivers a rich and complex flavour profile, which will overawe those fortunate enough to experience this incredible spirit.” We say “With only 195 bottles available globally and its mighty price tag, we’re sad to say we haven’t tried it, but if you’ve got the money, you certianly can. 44.7% ABV, 50cl, RRP £2,500

COURVOISIER XO ROYAL

RON ZACAPA 23 LA ARMONIA – THE HARMONY CASK They say “We are staunchly proud of the uniqueness and complexity Zacapa 23 offers and The Heavenly Collection allows us to further emphasise this, by additionally ageing the liquid and pushing the boundaries with fascinating flavour combinations.” We say “We’ve always been fans of Ron Zacapa and this limited-edition release, the third in a four-part Heavenly cask collection, doesn’t disappoint. Oozing with lush red berries and nuts, it’s a real treat.” 40% ABV, 70cl, RRP £75

They say “Inspired by the cognac blends that graced the royal courts of Europe in the 20th century.” We say “Oh, the seductive shape, oh the taste – rich, full-bodied and complex yet exceptionally smooth.” 48% ABV, 70cl, RRP £280

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DIGESTIF TIME TO SIP, SAVOUR AND CONTEMPLATE

IN THIS ISSUE Three very different spots to drink, dine and celebrate in London; The Cocktail Girl and Guy venture to two sumptuous five-star hotel bars in Italy, where to toast in Chinese New Year and more…

p. 60 Chrimbo Negroni

on the Holiday Spectacular menu at Common Decency at NoMad London

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THE COCKTAIL GIRL JETS OFF… and samples the good life at Four Seasons, Florence

As much as I love my London adventures, making it my business to discover its continually fresh, new and exciting bars along with reacquainting myself with its many and varied long-established ones, sometimes a girl needs a change of scenery. Don’t get me wrong, I’m immensely proud of the fact there’s a bar for every mood and budget in pretty much each of London’s 32 boroughs, but it’s always good to see how things roll in other cities around the world, ne c’est pas? Which is why I found myself in Florence. Not necessarily the first place you think of when it comes to cocktails admittedly. But thanks to Paola Mencarelli, the brains behind Florence

Atrium Bar, Four Seasons Hotel Firenze, Borgo Pinti, 99, Florence 50121

Cocktail Week, the drinks offerings and in turn attitudes have started to change. Not too long ago it was all Aperol Spritzes and prosecco, now the best bars in the city are fancying their chances on the World’s 50 Best Bars list. And some, most notably Atrium Bar at the Four Seasons

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Hotel, could conceivably make it. Florence isn’t exactly short of jaw-dropping architecture. But even by their standards, the Four Seasons Firenze is pretty ‘wow’. I mean, it’s a converted Renaissance palace, a former residence of Florentine nobles, set in the largest private park in town for goodness sakes – every inch of the place oozes grandiose on a major scale. You may not have the dosh to spend a night in one of the gorgeous (and I mean gorgeous) rooms, but for the price of a cocktail, you can make like the gentry and really get stuck in. The bar itself is unashamedly old school. Plush, olive-green sink-into sofas, perfectly puffed cushions, warming dark wood accented with a plethora of table lamps providing just the right level of glow. Add artworks and vibrant lilac orchids into the mix and you’ve got one of the most elegant and relaxing places to while away a few hours. It’s an all-day affair, so you’re as likely to be sharing the room with afternoon-tea takers as you are people sipping Martinis. Me? I went straight in with a Negroni – it’s their speciality. Here it’s a real celebration, vintage-style, served from the drinks trolley (Bombay Sapphire, Mancino Vermouth Amaranto, Bitter Martini Riserva, Arancia Lunae). Then it was time to dip into the latest menu. Called MixThology, the cocktails are listed as tracks on an old-fashioned LP (remember those?). Not just a clever way to display the 14 libations, but a vehicle to hear unreleased music composed by Maurizio Tomberli. Eight classics are on one side (including said Negroni), and six new signatures (including two non-alcs) on the B side. Having already been won over on the Negroni front, I tried one of the new creations. Legacy (Patrón Silver Tequila, Martini Ambrato, clementine oleo saccharum, butterfly pea tea and sour mix). And jolly good it was too. Not only a visual delight but getting the all-important balance of sweet and sour spot-on. I can’t recommend it highly enough.

OUT AND ABOUT

Now, it is sometimes observed that if a bar comes with a particularly impressive view then the drinks offering may be a little less extraordinary. Admittedly on occasion, this cocktail guy has sadly found this to be so. Happily, I’ve also found the opposite to be true when the contents of my glass are complimented by the surroundings in which I’m sipping. Such was the case when I found myself in the luxury of the Mandarin Oriental on Lake Como, and more specifically its beautiful bar, Compass. It’s worth mentioning that the hotel in a previous life had actually been home to an Italian operatic diva. The whole building is absolutely stunning from its marble staircase (down which she would no doubt have made her entrance) to the terrace overlooking the lake, across which she is said to have signalled to her lover who lived in a villa on the opposite bank. The bar itself retains the sumptuous feel of the original villa, complete with fabulous chandelier, huge stone fireplace and lush velvet sofas. And as the sun starts to set over the lake, the terrace is the place to be. On said terrace, it seemed appropriate to order the most Italian of drinks, but this was a particularly special take on the classic Negroni. The Dell'evoluzione Conte, Clay Pot Edition, (bitter,

THE COCKTAIL GUY GAZES OUT… over Lake Como at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Compass, Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como, Via Caronti, 69, 22020 Blevio (CO), Italy

Mancino Vermouth Rosso, Mancino Vermouth Chinato, Tanqueray No. Ten Gin) is the bar’s latest version of its ongoing project to keep reimagining the serve. Here they have rested the ingredients in traditional clay pots, usually used to store olive oil, throughout the summer for an exceptionally smooth yet intense result. And with a rich colour that echoes the setting sun. A perfect example of a delicious drink and a breathtaking view coming together in absolute harmony. Returning to the intimate bar is an opportunity to study the menu in greater detail. Like my previous drink, all the creations take clever inspiration from the area. Local honey, olives and a selection of

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herbs suggest an abundance of flavour. Eventually settling on the Eden (Bombay Premier Cru, sage, green apple and helichrysum) I was rewarded with a deliciously wonderful drink with a pleasing, incredibly delicate herbaceous depth. After tasting a few of their excellent dishes (the pizza is an absolute must) what better way to round off the evening than with an exceptional amaro which is bottled especially for the hotel. Back on the terrace, nightcap in hand, the lake now illuminated by moonlight, I reflected that Compass is proof you can have both appealing drinks and seductive surroundings. If you're ever in Lake Como, a visit is an absolute must.

TCL PARTNER

SEASONAL SUGGESTIONS Dawn Davies, buying director at Speciality Drinks and The Whisky Exchange travels the globe to source her favourite bottles for the festive season

TAKE THREE INGREDIENTS

I am definitely a Christmas Grinch, but the holidays do give you the perfect excuse to drink something special. Here are my top tips for your sipping delight this festive season. For long nights relaxing around a log fire there is nothing better than a smoky whisky to get you in the holiday spirit. My current favourite is the Ledaig 18yo – not only is it a great whisky, it’s also a great price. ’Tis the season for Cognac and calvados and my hit list definitely includes the fruit-forward style of ValleinTercinier Cognacs and the pretty floral bouquet of Didier Lemorton’s Domfrontais Calvados. It wouldn’t be Christmas without a tot of rum and Appleton 15 is a splendid sipper. Fancy something sweeter? Then go for the spiced rum from Foursquare – all natural spices and great quality spirit. If you’re stirring up a Negroni and need a top notch vermouth, then try Cocchi di Torino. But if you just want to sit back and can’t be bothered mixing your own, the Pocket Negroni from White Box is the perfect alternative. Everyone needs a tipple of sherry at this time of year and Emilio Hidalgo’s Oloroso will be gracing my table this season. Or why not try a Pineau de Charantes if you’re after something different. In the party spirit? Then bubbles are the only way to go. Growers Champagnes are all the rage and I highly recommend seeking out Charpentier with their lovely baked apple notes. But whatever you are drinking this festive season I raise a glass to you and wish you a happy holidays!

Rich Woods aka The Cocktail Guy

Clementine Martinez 1. 50ml Easy Peeler Clementine Skin Infused Gin (alternatively you can use Edinburgh’s Clementine & Ginger Gin Liqueur) 2. 30ml Antica Formula 3. 1 bar or tsp Maraschino Liqueur Method: Stir all three ingredients with a cube of ice and gently double strain into a pre-chilled small Martini/coupe/pony glass. Garnish with a coin-size zest from the used fruit. For the infused gin, simply zest two clementines and place expressed skins into 200ml of gin. Leave to infuse for four hours and it’s ready to use. If you want to get a bit more involved, why not make an oleo from the zests, to add to a Gimlet?

Due to the citrus and acids expressed from the skins, surprisingly this drink is still delicious without adding citrus juice or acids. But if you feel you need it, a wedge of lemon or three drops of a 20% citric-acid solution squeezed in, will do the trick.

All available from thewhiskyexchange.com.

Rich Woods is the creative mind behind the boundary pushing cocktail menus at SUSHISAMBA and Duck and Waffle. He also co-owned Scout with Matt Whiley. His latest venture is Lost Property Office in London. waterloolostpropertyoffice.co.uk

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HOW-TO

LIQUID INTELLIGENCE

Cocktail making tips from the top with hospitality maestro Jack Sotti

S H U T TE R STOC K

othing says celebration quite like a classic Champagne cocktail. Adding a good slug of highquality booze to a glass of the old bubbly not only levels up your celebrations but screams, luxury and excess. And when we’re talking Champagne cocktails I mean real Champagne, the biscuity, toasted brioche-y, green-apple skin guy from the Champagne region of France. Prosecco, while having many qualities, simply doesn’t cut the mustard in this particular context. But times are tough, so I pose the question: is there any way of replicating the flavours and effervescence of a Champagne cocktail, without having to splash out on a bottle of Dom? Answer? You can get pretty damn close! You will first need to consider the balance of flavours, the acidity and of course the carbonation. You should also consider which Champagne cocktail you’re looking to emulate. In this case, let’s pick a French 75, originally made with gin or Cognac, fresh lemon, simple sugar syrup and Champagne. Now, let’s break this cocktail down into its component parts. Some key nuances we are looking to emulate are oak, spice, citrus, orchard fruit, florals, nuttiness and toastiness. This can be replicated with oaked, fruity spirits like calvados, Armagnac and Cognac, plus the inclusion of fresh pressed green-apple juice for acidity. Hints of fortified wines will bring in nuttiness and acidity, and floral liqueurs of elderflower, peach or rose can provide delicate top notes. Acidity wise we have a complex mix, including strong malic and tartaric acids, from the wine itself, citric acid from the lemon, and carbonic acid from the bubbles. This layered acidity is what provides the length and texture of a great Champagne cocktail. This can be replicated by blending a solution of malic, citric and tartaric acids in a ratio of 3:2:1 in a concentration of 20 per cent acid to water.

Shampagne 250g Alsace Pinot Grigio 150g filtered Granny Smith apple juice 100g Fanny Fougerat VS Cognac 10g crème de Pêche 25g sugar syrup 2:1 25g manzanilla sherry 100g mineral water with high calcium content, Evian will suffice here 7.5g Champagne acid solution* Method: *To make a Champagne acid solution, blend 12g of malic acid, 8g citric acid and 4g of tartaric acid in 96g of water, and stir to dissolve. Filter through a coffee filter, chill and carbonate to your heart’s content!

Finally, Champagne is known for its fine, intense bubbles, each one popping on the surface (around 400 per second) delivering aromatics straight to the nose of the drinker. To achieve anywhere near the same quality of fizz you must consider the following: clarity, temperature, pressure and time. Ensure the liquid you are carbonating

YOU MUST CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING: CLARITY, TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE AND TIME 59 THE COCK TAIL LOVERS / ISSUE 43

is as clear as possible – any particles will create foaming and kill your carbonation quickly. Use a coffee filter. Next, make sure the liquid is cold but not freezing, 1ºC is ideal here, as the CO2 will dissolve easier in chilled liquid. Finally, to force carbonate you ideally need high pressure (we’re talking 40 psi) or a long time under pressure (1-3 days). Good carbonation can be achieved with a soda stream, which sits around 15 psi, but you would have to keep it in the fridge throughout the carbonation process. I would recommend either building a custom carbonation set-up, or purchasing a DrinkMate carbonator for the same price as a SodaStream. That way you can store your fizzy liquid under pressure in the fridge for a few days and gently release the pressure when it’s time to open.

MAINS & MARTINIS

Three very different places to celebrate three very different occasions: posh Sunday lunch, decadent theatre experience and a seductive bar, all decked out for the holiday season

Common Decency

NOMAD LONDON, 28 BOW ST, WC2E 7AW THENOMADHOTEL.COM £££

The vibe Who would have guessed a onetime coal shed could be polished into such a diamond, something so totally gorgeous and glam? Fully lush with a hint of the louche, Common Decency is the latest addition to the fab food and drink offering from the ace team at NoMad London. Honestly, it’s a real gem. Particularly when all dressed up for the six-week Holiday Spectacular, with saucy Santa and festive decorations (Wed and Thurs, 6pm-12am; Fri and Sat, 6pm-1am. Until 30 December). Cleverly sectioned into four distinct zones – the sultry and playful lounge, with DJ and performances, the bar with mesmerising copper mural, a curtainedoff standing area for groups, and three

private snugs in the former coal sheds – it’s just the right side of posh to make you feel you’re going out, with the kind of first-class hospitality that makes you feel right at home. The food More sexy bites than full-on dinner – it’s all about sharing plates to seduce the palate. There’s caviar on crisp potato rosti with bonito cream; clams baked with Parmesan; brioche and smoked bacon; mussels, coconut curry, lime and mint, and chips with rosemary and lemon and more besides, all absolutely divine. The drinks Where to start? Leo Robitschek and Liana Oster have clearly

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had fun creating a serious and delicious drinks menu that doesn’t take itself too seriously. The names are a clue. From the Holiday Spectacular menu we go for Jingle all the Whey (Altos Reposado Tequila, mince-pie meat, Cocchi Americano and shortbread whey), and Gnome Alone (Elyx Vodka, lime, Amaro Averna, gingerbread spice, ginger and cinnamon) . Not to be missed is the Chrimbo Negroni (Beefeater London Dry Gin, Campari, 1757 Rosso Vermouth and mince-pie syrup), and the best Eggnog (Martell VS, Chivas 15 Year-Old, Havana Selección de Maestros, bourbon, Frangelico). It’s available in bottles to take away but if you fancy having a go at making at yourself, see recipe on page 17.

E AT & D R I N K

Moët & Chandon Suite at Kit Kat Club PLAYHOUSE THEATRE, NORTHUMBERLAND AVENUE, WC2N 5DE KITKATCLUB.COM £££

Champagne and canapes on the menu at the Moët & Chandon Suite at the Kit Kat Club

The vibe Before we get to the experience, we have to bow to the amazingness of Callum Scott Howells, completely bossing it in the lead role as emcee in Cabaret. The Moët & Chandon Suite suits him to a ‘T’. This new addition is for anyone who fancies treating themselves to the proverbial cherry on top of an already very tasty cake. Small, dark and moody, the room comes with its own separate entrance, bar and dedicated bartender, as well as private bathrooms and VIP host to guide us to and from our theatre seats. Unlimited food and drink is included in the ticket price, and with a capacity of just 26, it’s an intimate and swanky way to lose yourself in the magic and theatrical world of the Kit Kat Club.

The Lanesborough Grill

HYDE PARK CORNER, SW1X 7TA OETKERCOLLECTION.COM £££

The vibe The room is everything you want from a five-star hotel, and then some – think crystal chandeliers, ornate friezes, Doric columns and just the right amount of formality to let you know that you don’t have to worry about a thing. Sit back, relax, forget the real world and let the symphony of calming blues and light beaming through the domed glass roof set the scene for a sumptuous three-course lunch. Complete with live piano accompaniment.

but in presentation and taste. The same goes for the beef wellington which comes with salt-baked carrots and red wine sauce. It looks like a tiny (but beautiful) portion on the plate, however, it turns out to be just the right amount (thanks to a couple of potatoes snaffled from the other meal). We couldn’t manage a dessert each but soldiered bravely through an oh-so fabulous caramelised brioche pudding, burnt orange puree and milk ice cream to share. Utterly divine.

The food While nothing and no one will ever beat a really good homemade Sunday lunch, we bet your Sunday roast hero doesn’t serve and slice perfectly cooked beef from a trolley. Hmm, thought not. The main event of roast sirloin of Hereford beef, horseradish and apple cream, Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes is a triumph, not only in the way that it’s carved with aplomb table side,

The drinks We haven’t seen V-shaped 10 oz Martini glasses like these for years. Not that we’re complaining, in this setting they didn’t feel out of place, more of a respectful nod to the grandeur of the room. We both opted for Martinis: gin with a lemon twist in one; vodka and olive in the other – both strong, ice cold and decidedly delicious. Exactly what Sundays were made for.

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The food Pre-performance, a series of trays, including crispy ox cheek bonbon with horseradish, chilled Andalusian gazpacho; salt-baked baby potato, caviar and crème-fraîche; marinated salmon, chilli, sesame, and lime-dressed green-bean niçoise, is proffered. Bite-size desserts of raspberry sorbet with Moët & Chandon jelly and chocolate brownie, caramelised white chocolate, and seasalt bitter chocolate sauce make the rounds during the interval. The drinks It’s called the Moët & Chandon Suite for a reason – all four cocktails (save for the non-alcs) are charged with either Moët & Chandon Imperial Brut or Moët Rose Imperial. How totally and utterly fabulous! We love The Toast of Mayfair (Moët Imperial Champagne Brut, gold dust, Amaretto and lychee), which echoes the decadent look and feel of the show itself.

This page, clockwise from top: Jackwing Yao, head bartender at SanYou; One of the drinks on the menu; The central bar; The team at SanYou; Far right: Jackwing Yao

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I N T E R N AT I O N A L

NEW YEAR CHEERS

It's the Year of the Rabbit this Chinese New Year and to celebrate, Holly Graham shares some of the best bars and drinks in the region

hinese New Year begins with the new moon that rises between late January and late February, and is celebrated throughout China and Asia. Lunar New Year holiday traditions include family gatherings, house cleaning to cleanse the home of bad luck, giving and receiving money in red (representing good fortune) envelopes, dragon dances and processions.

Celebrating baiju

It’s also a great opportunity to highlight the region’s bars, kicking off with SanYou in Shenzhen, from the Hope & Sesame Group. Along with its sister branch in Guangzhou, this cocktail bar is known for evangelising baijiu, where it showcases 12

varieties of the Chinese spirit and its versatility through cocktails. Jackwing Yao (above), head bartender of SanYou Shenzhen, mixes sorghum light-aroma style baijiu with wasabi oil fat-washed white rum, Midori, mintinfused Fernet Hunter, fresh lemon juice and rock sugar syrup to create a more herbaceous and complex version of the Midori Sour, a cult favourite tipple. Not Your Midori uses light-aroma style baijiu to add a pear-like aroma to the drink, and the wasabi oil fat-washed rum gives it the pungent kick and identity of a tiki cocktail. For those unfamiliar with Fernet Hunter, it’s a modern twist on classic Italian bitters made in Austria, which has been adopted as a Hong Kong brand as the founders are based in the city. They also, in partnership with

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DarkSide bar in Hong Kong and local forager Wanda Huang, created Hong Kong’s first amaro and arguably one of the first in Asia.

Agave in focus

Speaking of Hong Kong and an evangelical passion for spirits, COA, currently number one on Asia’s 50 Best

WASABI OIL FATWASHED RUM GIVES IT THE PUNGENT KICK AND IDENTITY OF A TIKI COCKTAIL

I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Left: COA owner Jay Khan; Below: One of the many delicious agave cocktails on the menu; The bar in focus

diverse, with a solid menu of classics and even homemade horchata. Ask Khan and the team if they have any fermentation experiments on the go and you may be lucky enough to sip some of their house tepache. COA doesn’t shy away from Asian ingredients, serving cocktails that combine regional variations such as Sichuan pepper, sesame oil and shiso with Mexican chillies. Khan’s cocktail La Chinesca is inspired by a neighbourhood in Mexicali, once home to Mexico’s largest Chinese community. The area boasts more than 100 Chinese restaurants per capita, more than anywhere else in Mexico, mostly serving Cantonese cuisine. The drink features jalapeño-infused tequila blanco, mezcal joven, tomato and capsicum water, ginger honey, coriander, lemon, Tajin and sesame oil.

For the love of vending machines

Bars list for the second year running, is a shrine to agave spirits and craft cocktails. Helmed by Jay Khan, the Oaxacan-style drinking den is a passion-project-turnedaward-winning bar, inspired by Khan’s trips to Mexico and its spoil of spirits. COA is the epicentre for agave in the region. Khan’s diligent, patient and educational approach to the agaveuninitiated has inspired legions of drinkers to shun the trauma of tequila shot-fuelled hangovers. Through cocktails, tasting flights and masterclasses, COA – which takes its name from the machete-like tool used to harvest agave – has expanded with a

second branch in Shanghai. Khan’s community service knows no bounds. In late 2020, he and fellow agave enthusiast Andrew Davis created Mezcal Mission – an initiative to spread agave love and help others – with a series of bi-weekly mezcal tasting experiences, hosted at COA, with all proceeds donated to a local charity. Khan is renowned for showcasing family-owned small-batch agave spirits, recognised for helping their local communities, and was inspired to do the same by giving back to his. Copitas (small clay cups for drinking mezcal) and agave spirits dominate the back bar, but the spirit collection here is

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Over in Taichung, Taiwan, Summer Chen and her partner Darren Lim run Vender Bar – a place, quite literally, styled on a vending machine. Based on the premise that these machines are everywhere, providing essentials to keep you going throughout the day, Vender serves great drinks to get a night going or to cap off a great one. The novelty-style entrance requires visitors to insert a coin to unlock the door. Of course, the bar houses actual vending machines, one selling bottled cocktails and beers, the other dispensing capsules, each containing an unknown cocktail – an added surprise. Vender’s interactive cocktail menu features 12 compartments representing the house’s 12 signatures, each slot containing the main ingredients featured in the drink. Guests are encouraged to touch, taste, smell and explore the individual ingredients to gain a better understanding of the cocktails, guided by information in the menu detailing the taste profile. Each drink is named after a type of vending machine and features various herbs and spices from Southeast Asia.

THE MULTI-AWARDWINNING BAR IS THE EPICENTRE FOR AGAVE IN THE REGION

Vender’s bestselling cocktail The Cigar Vending Machine uses Taiwanese cypress wood chips to TEASE out unique flavours reminiscent of smoking a cigar, inspired by Chen and Lim’s first foray into Cuban cigars and old Cuban rum. The cocktail blends the wood chips with dark rum, red-wine syrup, fresh lemon juice, egg white, aromatised wine and chocolate bitters. For a region whose hospitality industry suffered heavily from COVID-19 restrictions, bars are finally starting to bounce back. Come visit and taste!

Above: Team Vender; Left: The interior at Vender; Below: The interactive cocktail menu

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PARTING SHOT

MUSIC TO DRINK COCKTAILS TO If you're looking for a sound track that's been curated with cocktails and conversation in mind, this is the one for you

The stage is set (p. 34), the food and drinks are sorted (p. 36), we’ve even provided a few helpful hacks if you're feeling particularly stressed (p. 44). The missing piece of the party at home puzzle? Apart from the people? The perfect party playlist. Lancelot Narayan, creator/producer of groovy independent radio station The Departure Lounge has curated a selection of tracks specially for The Cocktail Lovers. “These tunes are the coolest match for any celebration at any time of year,” he says. “I’ve put together music from some of the finest international composers who prove themselves your ideal companions whatever your tipple of choice.” The Departure Lounge is available 24 hours a day, tune in at musicforthejetset.com. Support the page by visiting patreon.com/ music4thejetset

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The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 43 Winter 2022

Articles inside

New Year cheers

Liquid intelligence