ON THE COVER... Savile Row comes to Shoreditch at Callooh Callay
DETOX VS. RETOX... Which flag will you be flying?
GIRLS ON TOP... Women of influence in the drinks industry
COCKTAILS IN BERLIN... Sipping our way through Germany’s capital of cool
25 reasons
to be a cocktail lover this season.
©2012 GREY GOOSE, THE GREY GOOSE BOTTLE DESIGNS AND THE GEESE DEVICES ARE TRADEMARKS.
Sip GREY GOOSE responsibly WWW.DRINKAWARE.CO.UK GREYGOOSETASTE.COM 2 - The Cocktail Lovers
A TOAST
TO CHANGING EXPECTATIONS TO THE FINEST FRENCH WHEAT TO THE POP OF THE CORK TO THE EXCEPTIONALLY SMOOTH TASTE
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
IN-tro
AH, 2012, IT’S GOING
TO BE AN
OLYMPIC
YEAR...
That goes for the exciting offerings on the cocktail front as well as the men and women going for gold over in East London. We’ve combined both in this issue’s style shoot calling on the winning ways of the finest bar talent in the East End – Andrea, Anne, Des, Ian and Tom from Callooh Callay. Not only did they mix up some blinding drinks from the new season’s menu, they showed they’ve got what it takes in the modelling stakes as well. See them in action on page 30. Women and drinks come under the spotlight as we look at Spirited Females who have made it to the top of their profession (p. 20). And as it’s the first quarter of the year, we zone in on the trend for lighter aperitivio-style drinks (p. 13) as well as putting forward the case for detoxing and retoxing (p. 18). With our new travel pages, food and drink reviews, interviews and recipes we hope to keep you inspired for the next few months. Please let us know what you think. Happy imbibing! Ms S and Mr G
4 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
30. IN-style
On the cover:
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Maxing up the bling factor, adding a new essential to our drinks collection, taking it sloe and 23 other things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
Get the drinks in at… Callooh Callay Savile Row comes to Shoreditch with our ‘style tenders’ at Callooh Callay
Des wears bespoke three-piece tweed suit, £5,100, Huntsman; lilac basketweave shirt, £95, Budd Shirtmakers; red and white dotted tie, £45, Favourbrook. Andrea wears bespoke smoking jacket with frogging detail, £4,638, Huntsman; pink pinpoint shirt, £95, Budd Shirtmakers; black silk scarf, £250, Huntsman. Stockist details, p. 34
10. IN-terview
36. IN-depth Cash in the attic How Dan Edelstyn found a vodka brand by rummaging around in his mother’s attic
Tomas Estes The Mexican Ambassador of Tequila to Europe talks to Rebekkah Dooley about his love of the spirit, favourite watering holes and first loves
41. IN-the mix
13. IN-the spotlight
42. IN-formed
Lighten up Take it easy with the new trend for aperitivio-style drinks
Mains and Martinis Restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
14. IN-spire
44. IN-formed
High society Bars with the best views of London
Word Up Last orders from JJ Goodman; music to drink cocktails to by June Montana, how to shake and strain from Dre Masso and The Cocktail Girl gives her view on Drink Shop Dance
18. IN-focus Detox or retox It’s going to be a tough few months at Cocktail Towers, one of us is detoxing…
20. IN-focus Spirited females We talk to five women who have made it to the top of the drinks industry
26. IN-focus Going for gold The countdown to World Class UK starts here...
28. IN-dulge Squeezy does it Watch out lemons, its juice time!
This season it’s all about… rum Crack open the rum, its carnival time in Trinidad and Tobago
46. IN-sider’s guide Eight days a week Local bartender Katy Dimech on Bournemouth’s bustling bar scene
48. IN-ternational Berlin Cocktails and culture in Germany’s capital of cool
45. IN-vitation only Snapshot Pictures from our favourite parties, competitions and events from the past three months
Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Contributors Katy Dimech, Rebekkah Dooley, Susannah O’Grady, June Montana, Lauryn Tomlinson Art Director James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Photography Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com With thanks to: Jan Till Becker, Maria Giesecke, Ingrid Junker, Mike Meinke, Alexander Scanlon, Patrick Tessendorf For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 07801 932 941/07816 202 547 thecocktaillovers.com Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Issue No. 2 January–March 2012 PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
CLICK THE LINKS THROUGHOUT THE MAGAZINE FOR DETAILS ON THE PEOPLE, PRODUCTS AND PLACES.
You can read The Cocktail Lovers Magazine on your iPad and iPhone, as well as other tablets and smartphones. The Cocktail Lovers - 5
IN-the know
25 reasons to be
a cocktail lover this season. Feeling like Tsars, popping our corks with Champagne cocktails and fab new bitters from the London Cocktail Society, just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months…
ONE Zoning in on whisk(e)y… Scotch for Burn’s Night (25 January) and Irish for St. Patrick’s Day (17 March). Fly your flag at thewhiskyexchange.com 6 - The Cocktail Lovers
Chasing away the winter blues…
6 2
with a spot of pampering. Guys, try The Hemingway, an invigorating facial and massage with a cheeky Bloody Mary on the side. £155 at Gentlemen’s Tonic. gentlemenstonic.com
3 AND LADIES,
gather a couple of friends for Nails Night at The Dorchester hotel. Choose one of 1,760 colours for your mani/pedi, and chillax with Champagne and canapés. £45 including lipgloss to take home. thedorchester.com
04 Getting fruity… starting the day with oh-so virtuous freshly-squeezed juices and ending it slightly naughtier with berrybased, anti-oxidant rich martinis to keep pesky colds at bay.
5
KEEPING TRACK OF LIQUID CALORIES… The Rockwell makes it easier with its calorie-counted Nip and Tuck menu. From The Saintly (non-alcoholic concoctions like the Minty Healer, 73 cals) to The Sinful (with alcohol, such as The Lemon Camellia, 95 cals). thetrafalgar.com
Creating cocktails inspired by music… Top bartender Julian De Feral shows us how in his themed Cocktail Masterclass & Piano Bar evenings where each drink is matched with live music. On the last Thursday of each month at lutyens-restaurant.com
07
Making flavoured popcorn… if it’s good enough for the smartest cocktail bars, then it’s good enough for us. Heat oven (200C/180C fan/gas mark 6). Pop corn in a microwave or hob according to instructions on packet. Mix chilli flakes and black pepper and sprinkle over popped corn. Tip the whole lot on a large baking tray and place in oven for 5 mins or so. Add salt and serve...
Yum!
8
Relaxing in style or as we like to call it, elegant slumming, kicking back in comfy cashmere layers whilst enjoying cocktails at home. hush-uk.com
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INDULGING IN BIG BOY BREAKFASTS at Hawksmoor Guildhall. Its excellent menu includes proper rib-sticking delights like steak and eggs, devilled veal kidneys on toast and the Full English for two to share. Wash down with one of the ‘Anti-Fogmatics’ such as a Marmalade Martini or Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew, both created to enjoy before 11am. thehawksmoor.co.uk
09
MAXING UP THE BLING FACTOR…
10
there are cocktail rings and there are these babies from Heming – guaranteed to brighten up any outfit. Not cheap but then neither are we… hemingjewels.com
ELEVEN TAKING IT SLOE... cracking open a bottle of 2010 Sipsmith Sloe Gin – the colour alone makes us feel all fuzzy and warm. sipsmith.com
DRINKING HOT TODDIES… 12 from the coolest vessels around, Sex & Mugs & Rock & Roll, complete with punk-tastic safety pin. £12.95 each from rockettstgeorge.co.uk.
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13.
BEING INSPIRED BY LONDON FASHION WEEK (17-22 FEBRUARY)… but picking up chic designer cocktail dresses and sharp suits at a fraction of the price at designersales.co.uk, designerwarehousesales.com and londonfashionweekend.co.uk.
14
Letting the train take the strain heading south to the Plymouth Distillery for a two-and-half hour Private Tour and gin-making session with Master Distiller Sean Harrison. plymouthdistillery.com
15 POPPING OUR CORKS WITH CHAMPAGNE COCKTAILS... for Valentine’s Day (14 February) and Mother’s Day (18 March). Keep it seasonal with a Poire William Champagne cocktail: 35ml pear brandy, 1 tsp simple syrup; 75-100ml chilled Champagne. Pour the pear brandy and simple syrup into a chilled Champagne flute. Top with Champagne and garnish with fresh pear slices.
16
Going tea-total…
but not in a boring way. Forget Darjeeling, we’re talking cool cocktails. Top marks go to the Gilbert Scott in St. Pancras Renaissance London hotel for its Taking Tea With George menu which includes stunning drinks and an array of tasty tidbits to go with. thegilbertscott.co.uk
21
ADMIRING FRANK, DEAN AND SAMMY’S SMOOTH TALK… in the Rat Pack Live From Vegas at the Wyndham’s theatre until 21 January 2012, then drinking martinis at the nearby London Cocktail Club. londoncocktailclub.co.uk
17. ADDING A NEW ESSENTIAL TO OUR DRINKS COLLECTION... homegrown bitters created by London Cocktail Society members, available from masterofmalt.com.
18
WATCHING THE COMPLETE BOX SET OF THE THIN MAN... (the classy black-and-white films ahead of the Johnny Depp remake) with husband and wife team Nick and Nora Charles. Their Martini moments are legendary. Available from amazon.co.uk.
20
19
UPDATING OUR BAR KIT... with the sleek and sexy Octagon collection from Nick Munro for John Lewis. Prices from £10. johnlewis.com
22
Securing good seats for Gin & Jazz... the new stylish monthly sessions at Arch Bar at The Intercontinental hotel. With jazz, gin cocktails and decadent nibbles, it does exactly what it says on the tin. ichotelgroup.com
LIGHTING UP SCENTED CANDLES...
23
to create the perfect mood for cocktail drinking at home. Our favourite? Pomegranate Noir from Jo Malone – opulent, hypnotic and very, very sexy. jomalone.com
24
Feeling like Tsars…
at Novikov, the new Russian restaurant and bar from Arkady Novikov opening in Mayfair in January. With Esther Medina consulting on the cocktail menu (p. 23), we’re confident it’s going to be good.
CREATING DREAM SHOES...
25
for posh nights out. Ladies: choose your shape, colour and fabric, add straps, then really go to town with all manner of embellishments. We like. A lot. upperstreet.com
LEARNING NEW TRICKS... picking up cocktail wizardry tips at a one-day Molecular Mixology class at Shaker & Company. shaker-uk.com The Cocktail Lovers - 9
Tomas Estes 10
IN-terview
IN THE HOTSEAT
As the man credited with introducing Europe to tequila, as well as founding La Perla and Café Pacifico bars and restaurants in London, Tomas Estes knows more than most about the agave-based spirit and hospitality. He opened his first restaurant in 1976 and has since launched numerous bars and restaurants around the world. He also launched Ocho tequila and is currently planning the 30th birthday celebrations for Café Pacifico in Covent Garden. Three things that make you happy? I will give you four: ‘Salud, Amor, Dinero...y tiempo para disfrutarlo todo’ - health, love, money, and a lot of time to spend it all. But actually my priority is my boys, they are my love, so love comes first, then physical health, then business, and then I make sure that I still have time. Who or what was your first love? When I was 14 or 15, there was a girl two years older at a high school close to mine. Her name was Janey. She was sweet, loving, supportive and creative. That first love was so intoxicating and romantic, so wonderful and expanding. What did you last dream about? I don’t remember my night dreams, but my current aspiration and fantasy relates to my new Curado (the latest product in the Ocho portfolio, launching January 2012.) My dream is to get it in the market and see people’s reactions to it. What is your greatest fear? Not to be myself. What is your biggest regret? Not staying in France long enough to get European citizenship for my boys. Where is home? Home at the moment is Oregon. But I lived for 10 years in Holland, 15 in France and I’ve lived in the UK – these places all feel like home to me. I feel that I take home with me wherever I go. What is your favourite smell? My favourite smell has to do with something that I am going to drink, usually it’ll be a wine or a tequila. What gets you out of bed in the morning? The anticipation of the day ahead.
Who would play you in a movie of your life? Steve McQueen. What is your most treasured possession? My ability to give. Head or heart? Heart. What is success? To feel good about where I am and to still feel challenged by the next thing. The most interesting thing to me is to go where nobody else has gone, to pioneer and to do things that are different. That’s what gets me up in the morning – the challenge of new things. Describe your proudest moment... When we opened our restaurant in Amsterdam with little money and lots of nerve. What would be the theme tune to your life? There was a play called Hair during the 1960s with an a cappella song called What A Piece of Work is Man. The words are by Shakespeare and I like it because it looks at the awesome possibilities of a man. What can’t you live with? Oppression. And can’t live without? A challenge. Tell us something we don’t know about you... That I am on a path towards clarity, consciousness, awareness and mindfulness as a means of liberation. And something you don’t want us to know? Sometimes I drink too much. --- Interview by Rebekkah Dooley
Photo: James Estes
Your preferred nightcap? A glass of white tequila. Your favourite drinking hole? It has to be one of mine – I created my favourite drinking hole. Aside from that I like the bar at Rules, Quo Vadis, Callooh Callay, all in London and La Capilla Bar in Mexico. And then there’s Tommy’s in San Francisco – Julio, the owner, and I are very, very good friends, I have a big appreciation of Tommy’s and my son Luke is in San Francisco so I’m there a lot now.
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
IN-the spotlight
Lighten Up Looking for a resolution you might actually keep? Try going lighter on your drinks. This time of year wreaks havoc on our poor conscience. Should we adhere to the goody-goody two shoes part of the brain urging us to give up alcohol completely, or succumb to our rebellious, couldn’t give a damn inner self that whispers (just that little bit too convincingly) that life’s too short not to have a good time? Hmm, tricky... Perhaps the growing trend for longer, lighter, lower-alcohol libations will satisfy both the angel and devil that lurks in all of us. Not as virtuous as they sound, these bitters-based, aperitivo-style drinks are about half the strength of a full-on cocktail but miles more interesting than plain old fruit juice.
Bassoon Bar Corinthia Hotel, Whitehall Place, SW1A 2BD. T: 020 7321 3150. bassoonbar.co.uk With its smart list of vermouth-based cocktails such as the Italian Cobbler (Campari Bitters, homemade vermouth, rhubarb liqueur, caster sugar, lemon and orange wedges, fresh fruit) and homemade sodas including peach and cinnamon soda with gin; vanilla and orange soda with rum; thyme and lime soda with gin and lavender and lemon soda with gin, Bassoon comes highly recommended for its creative approach to lighter drinks.
Anti-Fogmatics, Eye-Openers, Pick-Me-Ups, Morning Glories, Corpse Revivers – call them what you like, they’re just the ticket if you hanker after something spirited without a massive guilt trip attached. Find them at the following London bars:
Hawksmoor 11 Langley Street, WC2H 9JG. T: 020 7856 2154; 10 Basinghall Street, EC2V 5QB. T: 020 7397 8120. thehawksmoor.co.uk There’s a whole section on Hawksmoor’s menu dedicated to this style of drink, of which Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew (homemade ginger syrup, fresh lemon juice, gin and London Pride ale) sits pride of place. Recharge and refresh with the blindingly good Tokaji Smash (fresh pineapple, fresh lemon juice, apricot brandy, sugar syrup and Tokaji), and top-selling Sherry Cobbler (Manzanilla sherry, lemon juice, sugar syrup, lemon, lime and orange slices, with lots and lots of ice).
Sherry Cobbler Recharge & refresh at Hawksmoor
The Campari Bar downstairs at Polpo 41 Beak Street, W1F 9SB. T: 020 7734 4479. polpo.co.uk Russell Norman has done his fair share to propel Campari and Aperol into the limelight – they’re the aperitivos of choice at his restaurants Polpo, Da Polpo, Polpetto and Sputino. Try the palate cleansing Spritz (Campari or Aperol based), together with the obligatory small plates or chiceti and discover what all the fuss is about.
Aperol The aperitivo of choice at Polpo, Da Polpo, Polpetto and Sputino
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View from Sky Bar Height: 387ft
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IN-spire
Vertigo 42 (Bar/separate restaurant) 25 Old Broad Street, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020 7877 7842. vertigo42.co.uk
Oxo Tower Bar (Restaurant/brasserie/bar) Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street, SE1 9PH. T: 020 7803 3888. harveynichols.com
Height: 600ft
Height: 180ft
Forty-two floors up in the heart of the City, this is definitely one of the loftiest bars in the capital. St. Paul’s Cathedral, the BT Tower and what seems like the whole of London are all there for your viewing pleasure and with floor-to-ceiling views and barely-there glass shelf tables to perch your drinks on, they make sure you’re privy to all the key sights. It’s a strictly Champagne and Bellinis affair so don’t go expecting Martinis. Bookings only.
Its small fry in comparison to the others but as it looks right on to the Thames and over to the City, it’s still one of our favourite spots for sightseeing without getting our shoes dirty. Ian Goodman’s cocktail menu features some rather nifty drinks inspired by the history of London and in particular, the Thames. No bookings taken at bar; book for restaurant and brasserie.
Attic Bar at Pan Peninsular (Bar/lounge) 3 Pan Peninsula Square, Canary Wharf, E14 9HN. T: 020 8858 2437. incgroup.co.uk
Height: 472ft. Looking out on to the historic warehouses and shiny modern power houses reaching up to the sky this members-only club on the 48th floor of one of London’s tallest residential buildings shows off the two sides of Docklands. The cocktails are classic and the views, which can be accessed from the wrap-around balcony, are out of this world. Embrace the riverside location and make your entrance by boat. Members and guests only.
Attic Bar
Sky Bar (Bar)
21-24 Millbank, SW1P 40P. T: 0904 679 0379. altitudelondon.com
Height: 387ft. The vista from this minimalist building is like peeking out on to a real-life picture postcard. The Thames is there in all its shimmery snakelike glory, along with the Palace of Westminster, the London Eye and the bulbous form of The Gherkin. Cocktails are served to enjoy alongside the beats pumping out from the DJs but if we’re honest, they take second place to the views below. Guestlist only.
Paramount
Paramount (Restaurant/bar/viewing gallery) 101-103 New Oxford Street, WC1A 1DD. T: 020 7420 2900. paramount.uk.net
Height: 385ft Even Oxford Street looks good from a height, as you’ll see looking out from the top of this style conscious bar and restaurant. You can order perfectly good cocktails in the bar attached to the restaurant on the 32nd floor but we advise booking for the Viewing Gallery with its 360 degree views one floor up. Bookings only. Oxo Tower Bar
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IN-focus
DETOX RETOX
OR
Which gets your vote at the start of 2012? Retox says Mr G Ah, January the first. A new year, a new start. The over indulgence that started sometime in the early days of December and concluded sometime in the early hours of January is still making itself felt in our heads and stomachs. Worse still it’s probably making itself felt on our conscience. So, what next? The popular pitfall is a particularly dark addition to the list of New Year’s resolutions – as we refute all that has gone before, promising to give up this and start doing that, vowing to learn a new language, study philosophy, go on a diet and give up smoking, we then add give up drinking… Now let’s not panic. There are a lot of very sensible people out there, a lot of realistic people – people who don’t swear never to touch another drop but see the start of a new year as a good an opportunity as any to take a break from the hooch. Whatever their inspiration – losing of weight or gaining of self-esteem, they are the masters and mistresses of their own destiny. I salute them, I admire them and I support them, but, I am not one of them. The thing about January is that it is cold and dark and wet. We are deflated after the celebrations and we are broke because of them. When we get up in the morning it still feels like the middle of the night and the night itself seems to start mid-afternoon. As for the few hours in between,
18 - The Cocktail Lovers
they are usually grey and overcast. Spring, let alone summer seems an eternity away and let’s face it, a British summer ain’t much to look forward to at the best of times. So ask yourself, is this really the right time to deny yourself the delightful sound of ice cubes rattling around in a shaker? Is it really wise to shy away from the shiver of a well-chilled cocktail glass? Is it morally sound to threaten the livelihood of distillers and mixologists around the world? Let’s be clear here, I am not saying drink to excess. What I am saying is this: I like a little tipple and now is not the time to toss it away. Meanwhile Ms S, my soul mate and cocktail companion will have taken the pledge, albeit for a limited period. I admire and support her but I shall not be joining her. Instead when the evening Martini beckons I shall look up and take notice. When the winter Manhattan calls I shall answer. When the Aviation, the Martinez and the Old Fashioned are lonely they shall not be wanting for company. I will not, however, goad or gloat, nor tease or tempt her. When she and I are in a bar I’ll order as usual whilst drawing her attention to the selections of alcohol-free libations. Moreover, as I taste them to offer an opinion (as I always do) I shall not wince. At home whilst I will mix myself a much-needed livener I will mix for her the best that I can find amongst our many cocktail recipe books,
in that slim section which usually precedes the appendix and goes by the terrifying description of ‘non-alcoholic’. During her ‘dry’ period I may even try out something a little lighter like a Vermouth Sour or mix my brandy and soda with a ratio of one to two rather than two to one. Whatever, I will see January through as I have always seen it through – happy and occasionally with a cocktail in hand. After all, it is cold and dark and wet – and the only wetness I’ll welcome is the contents of my martini glass.
Detox says Ms S Okay, okay, I know it’s a cliché to go down the detox route as soon as the calendar eases its way into the cold, none-to-pretty light of January but after the excesses of Christmas and a year of ‘liquid research’, a month or so of abstinence is definitely in order. Don’t get me wrong, there’s nothing the evil twin on my shoulder would like more than for me to join Mr G on the retox side of the fence, we are cocktail lovers after all. That said, I’m rather looking forward to bypassing the spirits and familiarising myself with the non-alcoholic section of the menu. I’m tired, I’m sluggish, I’ve put on tons of weight and I know that laying off the sauce is just what my body needs.
Claire Smith and Georgia Sinclair gave an informed and inspiring talk about staying healthy in the drinks industry. “Give your body and in particular, your liver time off,” advises Sinclair. “This is not a lecture on not drinking – I’m a realist. This is about balancing your lifestyle, getting to know yourself and giving your body the break it deserves.” You might not want to admit it but deep down, you know she’s right. Which doesn’t mean you have to go cold turkey. Smith and Sinclair advise having three consecutive days off booze each week – a kind of detoxlite if you will. Nowhere near as daunting as a full-on abstinence drive, this is a realistic, more attainable approach to responsible drinking. Me? I’m going hardcore. I even plan to give up coffee. Next time you see me at a launch or propping up a bar with Mr G, bear with me. I might be a bit less animated but my halo will be firmly in place. Make it all worthwhile by sponsoring me – all donations gratefully received. Virginmoneygiving.com/sandraelawrence
Oh, and did I mention I’m running my first London Marathon in April? There’s no denying the prospect of hauling myself round the 26 miles course is a major factor in my decision to say ‘no’ to anything even vaguely alcoholic. Having committed to raising maximum moolah for a charity very close to my heart (thehaven. org seeing as your asking), I plan to do it properly. So while Mr G will be sleeping off an evening of indulgence, I’ll be up and out pounding the pavements. Hello early nights and early mornings; goodbye Mr G’s customary martinis. There are pros and cons to choosing January as the month to reign myself in. On the downside it’s dark, cold and miserable which seems like punishment enough; on the plus-side everyone understands your plight and perhaps even more importantly, there’s no time like the beginning of the year to wipe the slate clean. Not that I’m under any illusions that I’m giving up drinking forever – let’s not be rash or quite frankly, ridiculous. No, my way of thinking is this: it’s only for a teeny-tiny fragment of my life. And do you know what? Gin, champagne, wine and all my other spiritual buddies will still be there when I’m done. It’s good to put some money in the health bank every once in a while – particularly once the years start clocking up. During London Cocktail Week last year
The Cocktail Lovers - 19
IN-focus
SPIRITED
FEM A LES W
e won’t go as far as James Brown and say (or sing) It’s A Man’s, Man’s World but there’s no denying there are too few women in the drinks industry. Thankfully, things are starting to look up. Not only are there more exceptionally talented females brightening things up behind the bar, there are a growing number landing the big boy posts as well. Take Joy Spence and Pierrette Trichet for instance. As Master Blender at J. Wray & Nephew and Cellar Master at Remy Martin respectively, these two have the top jobs in what must be the most masculine of spirits: rum and cognac. Then there’s Gloria Collel, Cava Maker and International Wine Manager for Freixenet in Spain. Like Spence and Trichet, she’s one of the first women to hold the position in the company’s history. “Being a woman has generally been a positive for me,” says Collel. “Women are better tasters than men - we have more references. Women cook more, we have perfumes and creams, these all create brain references, and make for better tasting.” And it’s not just the world of wine and spirits. When it comes to cocktails Audrey Saunders shows the cognescenti how it’s done over at her internationally renowned Pegu Club in New York, while Maria Dolores Boadas, runs things in a formidable fashion in her father’s world- famous bar, Boadas, in Barcelona.
Which is all fine and dandy on the international front but what about the UK? Actually, it’s coming on pretty nicely, thank you. From high profile brand ambassadors to a distiller of some of our most popular gins, spirited females are making an impact up and down the country. We talk to a few at the top of their game.
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IN-focus
Gold... Going for
As far as great moments in cocktails go, we’re rather looking forward to the next few months. Why? It’s the countdown to Diageo Reserve Brands World Class.
For those of you who don’t know what we’re wittering on about, let’s put it into context: the film industry has the Oscars, music has the Ivor Novellos and theatre has the Tonys. Bartenders have Diageo Reserve Brands World Class. No other cocktail competition even comes close. True to its name this prestigious annual event puts the finest talents through its paces with one sole aim: finding the very best makers and shakers in the world.
Jamie constructs his winning drink
Which is no mean feat bearing in mind the wealth of talent out there. Consider this: last year the global search saw a staggering 10,000 hopefuls eyeing the coveted title. In the UK alone, over 600 masters and mistresses of the cocktail shaker battled it out in the regional heats, armed with passion for their craft, a few clever tricks and an arsenal of premium ingredients. Not any old ingredients mind, this contest is all about the premium products in the Diageo Reserve Brands portfolio. That’s Tanqueray No. TEN gin, Ketel One vodka, Zacapa rum, Don Julio tequila, Johnnie Walker Blue Label whisky and Grand Marnier liqueur, blending fine cognacs and tropical oranges. Who would have thought there were so many ways to joosh up a drink? Don’t get us wrong, we’re no strangers to being dazzled by the wealth of fantastically original cocktails that get served up in our top bars – whether in London, Scotland or the North and South of England. That said, even our jaws dropped at the stunning creations we tasted and judged in the World Class UK 2011 final. To say it was a tough competition is an understatement – you could have cut the excitement/nerves/tension in the air with a knife. But there could only be one champ – that was Jamie MacDonald of The Raconteur in Edinburgh. His winning drink, The ‘Chaste’ was a canny balance of Ketel One Vodka, Benedictine liqueur, sweet vermouth and Lagavulin whisky, with a smoked blend of citrus and spices adding that essential dramatic flourish. “How corny but it was indeed a girl who’s name translates to ‘Chaste’ or pure, like Ketel One Vodka who inspired this drink,” he said of the showstopping concoction. Corny, maybe but the drink was an absolute corker. The recipe is below just for reference but trust us, not for nothing did MacDonald earn the title of the Best Bartender in the UK.
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THE ‘CHASTE’ COCKTAIL 40ml Ketel One vodka 20ml Benedictine D.O.M 20ml sweet Italian vermouth 7ml Lagavulin 16-year-old whisky Plus, dry orange peel, cinnamon, vanilla and star anise for smoker Method: Stir ingredients in a mixing glass over cubed ice. Pour into a decanter and layer smoke on top (using a smoker with dry orange peel, cinnamon, vanilla and star anise). Use a stopper in the carafe, then present to guest, allowing them to pour into a chilled wine glass over a sphere of ice.
IN-dulge
Squeezy does it
Delicious in a White Lady, perfect on pancakes (don’t forget Shrove Tuesday on 21 February), lemons take pride of place in the bar and kitchen. Make sure you get every drop out of yours by choosing one of our favourite models…
FOR THE MINIMALIST: Stelton Rise & Shine Squeezer Cool-as-you-like two-tone squeezer – the perfect piece of kit for pared-back homes. £34.95. johnlewis.com
FOR THE PRACTICALLY-MINDED: Joseph Joseph ‘Catcher’ Citrus Reamer Simple, clever and stylish, this handy gadget keeps pesky pips in their place. £8.50. johnlewis.com
FOR THE DESIGN GEEK: Juicy Salif Citrus Squeezer
FOR THE ADVENTURER: Koziol Brights Ahoi Squeezer An origami-style twist on the classic squeezer with plenty of room for juice. £7.50. heals.co.uk
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Not the most practical but Philippe Starck’s iconic squeezer is number one in the design department. £45. alessi.com
FOR THE FUNSTER: Mandarin squeezer by Stefano Giovannoni Add some colour and a big dose of fun with this citrus squeezer with goblet in thermo-plastic resin. £26. alessi.com
FOR THE CONCEPTUALIST: My Squeeze Is it a piece of sculpture; is it a new age massager? No, it’s a juice extractor… £35. theconranshop.com
FOR THE CLASSICIST:
FOR THE PROFESSIONAL:
Citrus Squeezer
Mexican Elbow
Alessi gives the classic hand juicer a colourful twist with this thermoplastic resin model.
The bartender’s choice – created for maximum juice extraction with minimal fuss.
£23. alessi.com
£12.49. thewhiskyexchange.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 29
IN-xxxxx
The Cocktail Lovers
IN-style
left-right: Des, Anne, Tom, Ian and Andrea in ‘Shoreditch’ style
Main picture: the Callooh Callay crew go Savile Row Tom wears double-breasted peak lapel navy suit, £1,450, Hayward; light blue pinpoint shirt, £95, Budd Shirtmakers; burgundy Fancy Foulard bow tie, £35, Budd Shirtmakers. Ian wears grey/blue suit, £1,350, Hayward; black and white square print tie, £45, Favourbrook; blue shirt, £145, Emmett. Des wears bespoke three-piece tweed suit, £5,100, Huntsman; lilac basketweave shirt, £95 Budd Shirtmakers; red and white dotted tie, £45, Favourbrook. Andrea wears violet crepe 40s shift dress, £475, Anne wears green silk Astaire dress, £405, both from Suzannah. The Cocktail Lovers - 33
IN-style
The Drinks
Choose from twists on classics, like the Spiced Claridges Cocktail (Plymouth gin, Noilly Prat and Vic’s spiced apricot liqueur with Cointreau). There are also a whole lotta fresh and funky originals including the Punch and Ruby, inspired by the flavours of the curry houses in neighbouring Brick Lane (Havana 7yo rum, Vic’s spiced apricot liqueur, mango chutney, fresh lime juice, Bob’s Cardamom bitters, fresh pineapple juice and Madras Curry spiced sugar). And while the menu changes every six months there’s always a place for the hardy perennials such as Ms S’s favourite since it opened in 2009: the Anise & Nephew (Wray & Nephew rum, Velvet Falernum, fresh pineapple and lime juice, Pernod Absinthe), all priced between £8 & £9. Groups of three to five are advised to go for the bonkersly named ‘If You Don’t Gnome Me By Now’, so-called as the giggle-inducing mix of Beefeater gin, Martini Bianco, fresh lemon juice, fresh pineapple juice, Cherry Heering, smoked tea syrup and Prosecco is served in one of the famous gnome punch bowls, priced at £55.
1. Tom wears light blue pinpoint shirt, £95, gilt cufflinks, £15, both Budd Shirtmakers. 2. Tom wears Prince of Wales check two-piece suit, £511, A Suit That Fits; light blue pinpoint shirt, £95, Budd Shirtmakers. Andrea wears bespoke navy smoking jacket, £4,238, Huntsman; blue/white stripe shirt, £94, A Suit That Fits, burgundy polka dot silk scarf, £250, Huntsman. Ian wears navy pinstripe three-piece suit, £551, A Suit That Fits, burgundy polka dot silk scarf, £250, Huntsman. 3. Tom wears Prince of Wales check two-piece suit, £511, A Suit That Fits; light blue pinpoint shirt, £95, Budd Shirtmakers; navy silk knitted tie, £90, Hayward. Ian wears grey/blue suit, £1,350, Hayward; light blue shirt, £76.50, A Suits That Fits; tie, £45, Favourbrook. Des wears thick navy cotton suit, £1,375, Rake; pink stripe shirt, £94, A Suit That Fits; tie, £45, Favourbrook. Andrea wears light grey suit, £486, A Suit That Fits, white double-sided shirt, £260, Hayward; navy tie, from £35, A Suit That Fits. Anne wears green silk Astaire dress, £405, Suzannah.
Stockist details: A Suit That Fits, to book an appointment with a Style Advisor at one of the 33 locations nationwide, please visit asuitthatfits.com or call 020 3006 7999. Budd Shirtmakers, 3 Piccadilly Arcade, SW1Y 6NH. T: 020 7493 0139. buddshirts.co.uk Emmett Shirts, 112 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LS. T: 020 7925 1299. emmettlondon.com Favourbrook, 55 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6LX. T: 020 7493 5060. favourbrook.com Hayward, 95 Mount Street, W1K 2TA. T: 020 7499 5574. douglashayward.co.uk Huntsman, 11 Savile Row, W1S 3PS. T: 020 7734 7441. h-huntsman.com Rake, for stockists, please visit rakestyle.com Suzannah, 6 Bristol Gardens, W9 2TG. T: 020 7286 8280. suzannah.com 1.
34 - The Cocktail Lovers
Photography: Johnnie Pakington
2.
3. The Cocktail Lovers - 35
IN-depth
CASH IN THE ATTIC
How a random rummage led one man to make a feature film and launch a vodka (as if either one wasn’t enough…)
A pencil sketch signed ‘Picasso’, a family tree that proves you’re of noble birth, a stash of bonds worth millions of pounds, what would you hope to unearth if you went searching through the family attic? We’ve all had such fantasies. The truth is we’re more likely to stumble down the steps clutching the Beano Christmas Annual 1964 (too battered for eBay), some old vinyl (too scratched to play) and a selection of dresses (too moth-eaten to be vintage). You’re covered in dust, disappointed and your bounty is destined for the dustbin.
36 - The Cocktail Lovers
This page: Dan outside the family distillery. Opposite (left to right): Maroussia with her mother and brother, Grandmother Maroussia Zorokovich as a 19 year old, Poster promoting Dan’s film designed by Bob Brown and Hilary Powell
Now imagine you’re Dan Edelstyn, it’s 2005 and you’re in your mother’s attic. As you rootle around your hand lands on a manuscript. Written by your grandmother it tells her very personal story, as a romantic nineteen year-old, of fleeing the Russian Revolution as it hits Ukraine. Oh, and it later transpires you also have a connection to your very own vodka distillery. Now that’s what we call a good haul. Understandably, Dan became obsessed with this story of his grandmother Maroussia Zorokovich. ”[When I read the manuscript] I felt like I was far away, walking the same streets, in a violent frantic city on the verge of huge change. In my mind the air was full of excitement and in the near distance I could hear gunfire,” he reminisces. “War veterans were limping along, while aristocrats about to fall from grace forever were having balls and romantic young girls were wearing white dresses. History had come alive and I jumped right in.” Fuelled by a vivid imagination and a thirst for uncovering Maroussia’s story, he decided to trace his Ukrainian Jewish history. Moreover, he wanted to capture it on film. In 2008 Dan arrived in the village of Douboviazovka, his family’s ancestral home. Then came the next big discovery – the vodka distillery. The connection here was through his great grandfather. It was still open but on the edge of bankruptcy. Grandmother Maroussia had written of a sugar factory but Dan appeared to have missed any reference to the distillery. Postperestroika Ukraine was an extremely economically depressed country and the village of Douboviazovka in particular was feeling the brunt of it. There and then Dan decided to rebrand the vodka created by the distillery and attempt to connect the village to the international vodka marketplace.
At this point the focus of the film changed as simultaneously two projects were born: the feature film How to Re-Establish a Vodka Empire and the launch of the vodka, ‘Zorokovich 1917’. While a full-length film may have held some apprehension, Dan was excited as something of a film-making veteran, with a number of shorts, documentaries and commercials to his credit. When it came to the latter he sums up his knowledge of vodka saying “I knew it was a rough tasting-drink that was mixed with coke by teenagers on a mission”. The next three years were perhaps, unsurprisingly, a mixture of highs and lows. Highs, like securing the backing of Channel 4 to shoot the film and launching the vodka – “a ridiculous but beautiful thing to have done, a vodka dedicated to all the history of the family,” he says. Lows such as discovering the “heart-breaking poverty” in Douboviazovka and finding that his family had been amongst the victims of the Holocaust.
FUELLED BY A VIVID IMAGINATION AND A THIRST FOR UNCOVERING MAROUSSIA’S STORY, HE DECIDED TO TRACE HIS UKRAINIAN JEWISH HISTORY
The Cocktail Lovers - 37
HARVEY NICHOLS COCKTAIL M ASTER CL ASS LEARN HOW TO BLEND PERFECT COCKTAILS AND A FEW OTHER TRICKS OF THE TRADE, PERFECT FOR GROUPS OF FRIENDS, SPECIAL OCCASIONS, OR SIMPLY TO TRY SOMETHING A BIT DIFFERENT. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK PLEASE VISIT WWW.HARVEYNICHOLS.COM KNIGHTSBRIDGE, BRISTOL, DUBLIN, MANCHESTER, EDINBURGH, BIRMINGHAM, LEEDS, OXO, PRISM.
The Cocktail Lovers - 39
IN-formed
MAINS & MARTINIS
Restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food.
Bistro du Vin
The Balcon
Mishkin’s
36 Dean Street, W1D 4PS. T: 020 7432 4800; 40 St. John Street, EC1M 4DL. T: 020 7490 9230. bistroduvin.co.uk
Sofitel hotel, St. James’s, 8 Pall Mall, SW1Y 5NG. T: 020 7968 2900. thebalconlondon.com
25 Catherine Street, WC2B 5JS. T: 020 7240 2078. mishkins.co.uk
Who? Everyone from media locals to savvy day trippers.
Who? Those who hanker after a taste of Parisian luxury without stepping foot out of Blighty.
What? New Yoik Lower Eastside Jewish deli (non-Kosher), meets London West End gin joint.
What? Laid-back bistro faves including comforting classics such as steak frites, steak tartare and daube of beef bourguinon. Why? Good food, over 200 wines on offer, plus a selection of nifty cocktails. When? Lunch, casual supper, Sunday roasts. Martini Mondays (£5 Martinis, £3.50 oysters) is a big draw. Wear: Whatever makes you feel comfy – this is a no frills, no fuss kinda place. Ms S says: “It’s heavy on the red meat so will definitely appeal to men but it’s chic enough for women, whether dining with friends or on their own. Hot dish: Half lobster, garlic butter and fat chips (£21.00) – chic and casual on one plate. Cool cocktail: Chase Marmalade Martini (£9) – the perfect aperitif.” Mr G says: “They’re keeping it simple with lots of French favourites on the menu and the style also strikes that appealing Gallic balance between formal and informal. Hot dish: Steak tartare with pommes paille (£15.95) – an indulgence that just begs to be tried. Cool cocktail: The No. 3 (£9) – great gin, simple recipe.” How much? Starters from £4.95; mains from £14.50; all desserts £6.50. Cocktails from £9.
What? Uber-stylish Grade II-listed grand brasserie decked out to replicate Coco Chanel’s Paris apartment, complete with a charcuterie bar, Champagne Balcony, St. James’s Bar and tasting table. Why? Every inch of the place is designed to feel lush without coming over all trussed up and museum-like. When? Early morning for a selection of classy teas; lunch time for off-the-scale charcuterie; tea time for elegant brews and a cheeky glass of bubbly from the Champagne Balcony; evenings for romantic dinners a deux. Wear? Something sophisticated and French. Better still, make it Chanel. Ms S says: “I love the way this restaurant feels like it’s been here forever. The food cleverly combines the best of French and British . Hot dish: Rump of Devon rose lamb with juniper-infused jus, seaweed and garlic green beans (£22.50) – a delicious twist on a classic dish. Cool cocktail: The flirty and feminine Mademoiselle Cinq (£13), served in a ‘fragrance’ bottle to capture the spirit of Chanel No. 5.” Mr G says: “Smart but subtly quirky – look out for the ‘formal’ classic portraits with animal heads. Hot dish: The Balcon Scottish beef and foie gras cottage pie with chanterelle mushrooms (£23.00) – a French take on a Brit speciality. Cool cocktail: Dry Martini with Lillet (£14.50).” How much? Starters from £7; mains from £19; desserts from £6.50. Cocktails from £13.
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Who? Gin-lovers, foodies and trendsters.
Why? Everything Russell Norman touches turns to food and cocktail gold. When? Lunchtimes for Brick Lane salt beef on soda bread and lox beigel with house schmear; evenings for meatloaf, cod cheek popcorn and house-smoked beef brisket hash and eggs. Wear? The kind of outfit that looks like you’ve just thrown together but is really a mix of designer labels. Ms S says: “I’m not being rude but the homestyle look of the dishes probably won’t win prizes in a beauty contest; that said, Norman is no schmuck, he’s transformed Jewish deli food into something seriously sexy and cool. Mazel tov. Hot dish: Reuben on rye with pastrami, sauerkraut, Russian dressing and Swiss cheese (£9) – where Russian, Jewish and Swiss meet in one ginormous sandwich. Cool cocktail: Diamond Fizz (£6) (gin, prosecco and lemon), simplicity itself but with a dash of glamorous bubbles.” Mr G says: “Just the ticket for those days when you want honest-to-goodness food in an unfussy, style-conscious environment. Hot dish: Meatloaf (£8) – just like your mama used to make. Cool cocktail: London Cup (£12) – gin, Campari, mint and grapefruit mixed together to share.” How much? Sandwiches from £6; all day brunch from £6 and all day supper from £5.
Music to drink cocktails to... by June Montana
What’s Going On by Marvin Gaye How do you decide on the ultimate album to listen to while chilling out with a cocktail? Initially my mind was agog with various songs and artists who I greatly admire. Then I thought: what makes a great album? A great album, and I’m not talking about a good album, has to be an intoxicating mix – the perfect blend of vocal dexterity and depth, lyrical poignancy and emphatic production, every track individually great but collectively brilliant. Take these essential ingredients and you end up with the perfect cocktail (see what I did there!) What’s Going On by the late, great Marvin Gaye encapsulates all of this and more.
The
Cocktail
Girl
In pursuit of spiritual enlightment in London’s funkiest bars Drink Shop Dance is my kind of place – it’s intimate, independent and fun. I like to think of it as the naughty face of Drink Shop Do, the cutesy design and craft shop/ café bar run by Coralie and Kristie upstairs. This minxy operation is the talented duo’s grown up, night-time affair. From the minute you step through the heavy metal door still bearing the hallmark of the sex shop it was in its former life (hey, this is King’s Cross after all), it’s apparent the homespun vibe is reserved for the retro set-up above. In case there was any doubt, the minimal black interior and funky soundtrack provide all the proof you need. Like I said, this is my kind of place…
This isn’t your normal run-of-the-mill Motown offering, in fact, the label fought hard to stop its release. Marvin Gaye told Berry Gordy (president and founder of Motown records and also Gaye’s brotherin-law) that he would leave the label if they didn’t release it. The gamble paid off. Not only was it a resounding success but it also catapulted Marvin from soul singer into the mainstream. What’s Going On, Mercy, Mercy Me and Inner City Blues made it to the top in both the soul and pop charts in America and established Gaye’s career in Europe. What’s Going On showed the complexity of Marvin Gaye, as a songwriter and producer, he created a collection of social and political observations as significant today as it was in 1971.
Marvin Gaye I raise my glass to you.
DID YOU KNOW?
READ THIS...
DIY Cocktails by Marcia Simmons and Jonas Halpren – an easy-peasy guide to creating your signature drink. £13.99 from Amazon.co.uk.
17 January...
is Hot Buttered Rum Day
22 February...
is National Margarita Day
That’s even before we get to the best part – its selection of spirits. Gin-lovers take note: the menu boasts over 30 varieties, including my favourite, saffron-infused gin. The menu is concise and to the point, mainly comprising of twists on the classics. I tried a Saffron Negroni and a Ginger Old-Fashioned, both of which got this cocktail girl’s vote of approval. My experience of Drink Shop Dance was overwhelmingly positive, the staff were incredibly friendly and the clientele is much younger than the usual after work crowd so prevalent in this neck of the woods. As for the drinks, they’re very reasonably priced with cocktails ranging from £7.50 to £9.50, with the option of buying bottles of spirits from £90. A final word from The Cocktail Girl: Get down there, if only to experience 30 variations of gin and tonic and the absolutely delicious Smoky Manhattan. Drink Shop Dance, 9 Caledonian Road, N1 9DX. Email: mail@drinkshopdance.com. Open Tues & Wed 5pm-12am; Thurs 5pm-1am; Fri & Sat 5pm-2am. DJs every Thurs, Fri & Sat. Strictly over 21s.
5 March...
is National Absinthe Day The Cocktail Lovers - 45
123 456 78...
*Katy Dimech was born and bred in Bournemouth and has worked her way from the floor to the bar. Last year she competed in the Diageo World Class UK Finals and is now looking forward to working at the newlyopened Koh Bournemouth, ‘a stunning Thai tapas restaurant and bar that’s well worth adding to your must-visit list.”38-40 Poole Hill, BH2 5PS. T: 01202 294723. koh-thai.co.uk
Bournemouth pier illuminated
IN-siders guide
8 DAYS A WEEK
You need an extra day to fit in Bournemouth’s ever-changing, ever-growing bar scene says local bartender Katy Dimech
M
F
Where to go? The bar at Urban Beach hotel (23 Argyll Road, BH5 1EB. T: 01202 301509. urbanbeach.co.uk); it’s chilled, relaxed, comfy and nicely removed from the centre of town.
Where to go? 1812 (The Royal Exeter Hotel, Exeter Road, BH2 5AG. T: 01202 203050. eighteen-twelve.com). With live music every weekend and a gigantic cocktail menu, it’s busy enough to feel like you’re out on a Friday night but not so busy to wish you’d stayed home.
T
S
For regular ‘nine-to-fivers’, a Monday morning wakeup call signals the start of the working week. For bartenders, the beginning of the week feels like ‘the morning after’. Take a walk through the centre of town at 9am and the streets are virtually empty. In fact, it feels like even the pavements have the shakes from the excesses of a grand weekend. The only group immune to this? Students. As a result, Monday has become an extension of the weekend for the majority of university-goers, and superclubs are just as busy as they would be on an average Saturday night. Consequently, cocktail bars and the like are ghost towns…
Time for the week’s work to commence. Bournemouth has a wonderful summer trade which means from May to September, bars are busy no matter what day of the week it is. Now that winter is with us, the start of the week is a more relaxed affair, which usually means bartenders can come out to play. Where to go? Smokin’ Aces (103 Commercial Road, BH2 5RT. T: 07886 953735. smoking-aces.co.uk) the bartenders den. Friendly service, very cool vibe, and open late enough to enjoy after work. Always my ‘go to’ bar.
W
Another ‘promotions heavy’ evening aimed at the massive student community. There’s always a busy salsa session or two going on and restaurants flaunt their mid-week deals. You really wouldn’t know that we were in the middle of a recession as it seems people are always out to treat themselves. And with the rise of ‘foody’, restaurants, there’s plenty to splash their cash on. Where to go? As nowhere stands out, I’m hoping one of our up-and-coming bars will be able to shine through. Keep an eye out for soon-to-be-opened Eau De Vie (46 Seamore Road, BH4 9AS), which is sounding better with every Twitter update.
T
Most definitely the new Friday – it’s like everyone is getting impatient waiting for the weekend. Bournemouth’s town centre is always filled to bursting on a Thursday night and our top-end bars and restaurants follow suit. No wonder our bars have upped their game, offering that party atmosphere even earlier. Get ready people, the weekend has well and truly started. Where to go? The Larderhouse (4 Southbourne Grove, BH6 3QZ. T: 01202 424687). With weekly specials and a decidedly ‘London’ atmosphere in full swing, you’ll find something unique coming from the kitchen as well as the bar.
Here come the girls. Weekend holiday makers, hen parties and stag groups seem to litter the pavements and the locals run for cover. Bournemouth has always had a reputation as a weekend home for the ‘soon to be marrieds’ and crowds looking for a busy, buzzing environment won’t be disappointed. However, if you prefer something a little less… plastic, rest assured, you can still find somewhere that fits the bill. More and more bars are moving away from the louder than life scene and with more people appreciating cocktail culture, you’ll be surprised what’s on offer.
Q: How many people can you fit in Bournemouth Square? A: A lot! Bars and clubs spill out onto the pavement, and even Smokin’ Aces, that lovely quiet Tuesday night den, is packed out. People have become more savvy and are planning their nights with a “we’ll start here, move on to there, and go elsewhere when it gets too busy” kind of vibe. In truth, Bournemouth has always been like this, and it’s beginning to feel like it needs a revamp. Everywhere has started to cater for large crowds and big spenders and unfortunately, it feels like Bournemouth loses its personality over the weekend. However, if you have the right mindset and embrace the madness, you’re in for a great party. Where to go? Start at 60 Million Postcards (19-21 Exeter Road, BH2 5AF. T: 01202 292696. sixtymillionpostcards. com) for a good beer selection, good tunes and chilled vibe. Move on to: Bar So (Exeter Road, BH2 5AG. T: 01202 203050) to unleash the dancer in you going, and to finish? Try Aruba (Pier Approach, BH2 5AA. T: 01202 554 211. aruba-bournemouth.co.uk), because you can stumble straight onto the beach at closing time.
S
Thank God it’s Sunday – time to relax, recharge and shake off that hangover. Take a stroll along the beach and get some sea air into your lungs, then embrace that ‘easy like Sunday morning’ feeling with a roast and Bloody Mary. You can pretend that Bournemouth is still the quiet seaside town your grandparents reminisce about (just don’t let them see the bags under your eyes...) Where to go? Camden Bar (6 Bournemouth Road, Parkstone, BH14 0ES. T: 01202 383879. camdenbar. co.uk) winner of Dorset’s Best Bloody Mary 2011 – just what your liver needs!
The Cocktail Lovers - 47
Maria Giesecke at Flamingo
IN-ternational
berlin The German capital of cool With its fabulously diverse bar scene, exceptionally talented bartenders and anything goes opening hours, Berlin ticks all the right boxes with cocktail lovers. Pack your skinny jeans, distressed T-shirts and funky trainers and prepare for a long weekend of non-stop party action – in the words of Michael Herd at Circus Hotel, “the nightlife here is insane”. You’ll find all the essential touristy stuff you need such as the lowdown on the city, the top 10 sights and maps for getting out and about from arrivalguides.com but for the inside scoop on the bars to visit, check out our Hot List.
WE LIKE The fact that Head Bartenders in Germany are called bar bhefs which is just what we think they are. However, the translation means bar chief…
THE COCKTAIL LOVERS HOT LIST Amano, Auguststrasse 43, 10119. T: +49 (0) 30 80 94 150. bar.hotel-amano.com As a rule, hotel bars in Berlin don’t get the insider’s vote of approval but this one is an exception. Sleek enough to appeal to the five-star guests but cool enough to entice the locals, Philip Bischoff’s menu is fun on paper and seriously good in the taste department. Ms S fell for the signature, the thick, fruity and extremely tasty Herr Strummel (Six grapes port, fresh lemon, fresh orange, homemade honey syrup and fig puree), served with a dinky bowl of goats cheese and half a fig on the side, while Mr G went for the Möller (gin, fresh lemon, white cane sugar, dashes absinthe, Peychauds bitter, soda), in other words, a perfectly balanced Collins with a surprisingly strong kick. Amano bar
Flamingo, Kleine Prasidentenstrasse 4a, 10178. T: +49 (0) 30 16 34 64 40 06. flamingoberlin.com At Flamingo Ingrid Junker and Cornelius Opper have cleverly created a series of blacked-out warren-like rooms that allow night owls to tailor their evening according to their changing mood. Start at the bar with a few cocktails mixed by acclaimed bar chef Rene Tempel. As the hours tick by, wind your way through to the next room for live music and when that gets too much, recharge your batteries in the chill-out room. After a little while, you’ll be ready to start all over again... Ms S was directed to the Oriental Margarita (saffroninfused 100% agave tequila, orange liqueur, lime, saffron salt and syrup), which had all the elements of a Margarita but here was propelled to another level. Meanwhile, Mr G tried the Big Fat Flamingo (Fat washed bourbon, Antica Formula, chocolate liqueur, lime, vanilla syrup, chocolate bitters) which was nice enough as a refreshing, after-dinner drink but it was the Vermouth Sour (vermouth, orgeat, elderflower, lemon juice) that was the real revelation – big on flavour but attractively light on alcohol. Immertreu, Christburger Strasse 6, 10405. T: +49 (0) 15 78 59 21 221. Ricardo Albrecht is one of the top bartenders in Berlin so it stands to reason that his first solo venture is highly regarded by those in the know. We visited a few weeks into opening and were knocked out by the selection of old and rare spirits lining the shelves and even more so by the fact that they are not prized museum pieces, more of an addition to his extensive arsenal of well-used, much-loved ingredients.
Chapel Bar, Sonntagstrasse 30, 10245. T: +49 (0) 30 65 93 65 74. chapelbar.com So called as it’s situated on Sontag Strasse (Sunday Street) and what should all good folk do on Sunday? Why, go to Chapel of course. Michael Blair’s bar is simple and stylish with a welcoming neighbourhood vibe. Ms S tried the Gin Basil Smash (Tanqueray gin, fresh lime juice, simple syrup and fresh basil leaves), a deftly balanced aromatic concoction attributed to Joerg Meyer from Le Lion Bar de Paris in Hamburg. Mr G took advantage of his insider’s tip to order from the World Class menu, offered exclusively at the BCB Reserve Room and here at Chapel Bar. His choice, the Mexican Star (Don Julio Blanco tequila, cucumber water, fresh lime, agave syrup), was created by Reserve Ambassador Michael Meinke who describes it “as a cross between a Tommy’s Margarita and a Sour”. With the tequila and cucumber water, it makes for a really original drink.
There is a cocktail list but do yourself and your tastebuds a favour and go with the flow, allowing Ricardo to mix up something off-menu (weekdays only; weekends are too busy to accommodate the bespoke side of things). This is a place for dark, strong cocktails and Ms S’s Chocolate Sazerac is a perfect example of Albrecht’s liquid alchemy. Mr G couldn’t resist asking Albrecht to make him a Dry Martini, here mixed with Gordon’s Yellow Label Gin (not to be confused with regular Gordon’s - this is the original recipe and weighs in at an agreeable 47.3%) and Lillet Blanc. Albrecht added a piece of lemon to the ice before some careful mixing, then garnished the drink with a squeeze of lemon oils. The result was extremely cold, full of flavour, strong and very, very good indeed.
The Cocktail Lovers - 49
OUT-of town
Rum Trader, 40 Fasenenstrasse, 10719 Just because you’ve rung the bell and waited for bar chef/owner Herr Scholl to open the door, don’t think that guarantees you entry. For starters, Rum Trader is no bigger than a modest living room, accommodating 20 guests at most. Secondly, the formidable Herr Scholl (he even addresses his acquaintances Herr this or that), is very particular about who he lets in. Which makes you feel pretty darned special to gain access – even better if you get to perch on the ‘special’ banquette seats overlooking the star turn at the bar. We’re sure there is a menu if you ask for it but Herr Scholl prefers to mix up something entirely bespoke. Ms S was proffered a rum Manhattan, which worked like a dream at the end of a very busy cocktail tasting evening. Given its history (having been around for some 30 years) and the formal manner of our host this was another place Mr G had to go for a classic Dry Martini. He was rewarded with a cocktail that felt like it was being served directly from a bygone era. The rare Booth’s London Dry Gin (a favourite of HM The Queen, apparently) was combined with a little Noilly Prat in a vigorous shake and served with a massive piece of lemon and a polite warning – “please be careful with the glass, it is a very old martini glass”. And it may have been tiny but that belied the fact it was one big, strong, tasty drink. Soho House Hotel, Torstrasse 1, 10119. T: +49 (0) 30 40 50 440. sohohouseberlin.com This isn’t really a bar for cocktails – more of a place to order simple gin and tonics whilst admiring the beautiful people and soaking up the vibe. Spring/summer is all about the rooftop bar overlooking the hottest spot in town: the affinity swimming pool, while autumn/winter is given over to the bar downstairs complete with roaring fireplace.
Stagger Lee, Nollendorfstrasse 27, 10777. T: +49 (0) 30 29 03 61 58. staggerlee.de Don’t let the Wild West theme scare you off, this is one of the most highly regarded bars in town. Bar chef/owner Maureen Reichelt is under 30 yet she runs it with military precision and a maternal eye. That goes for the excellent cocktails she mixes up with serious contemplation through to the attention to detail in every pocket of the bar. Ms S tried the Stagger Lee Julep from the Magnificent Seven section of the menu – complex, flavoursome and fitting in well with the dark wood, saloon bar setting. Mr G liked the sound of the Stagger Lee Beer Old Fashioned (bourbon, single malt, beer sugar syrup), an Old Fashioned with a really delicious depth of flavour, due in part to the combination of the bourbon and the single malt, but particularly to the hint of beer in the background from the bespoke bitters. Ever so slightly unusual and very satisfying.
THE ESSENTIALS: Fly We travelled with Germanwings, flying to over 75 European destinations from London Stansted and Manchester. Prices start at £24.99 one way, including tax. Flights can be booked at www.germanwings.com or call 0906 294 1918 between 7am and 8pm. Calls are charged at 25p per minute.
Sleep
€
Circus Hostel, Weinbergsweg 1a, 10119. T: +49 (0) 30 2000 39 39 The location is spot-on and as its from the team behind Circus Hotel, it has everything you need for an enjoyable stay including great staff, free WiFi, free daily walking tours, cheap drinks and live entertainment in Goldman’s Bar. Thoughtful touches like loan of phone chargers and alarm clocks and free beer on Mondays make it a justifiably popular choice. Recommended for 18-25s. Prices from 19 Euros per person per night sharing 8-10 person dorm; 70 Euros for double/twin room with ensuite facilities; 5 Euros all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet.
Ms S’s martini was perfunctory while Mr G’s Aperol Sour (Aperol, lemon, egg white) was efficiently mixed. Neither drink was ever going to set the world alight but in the fantastic surroundings, they worked like a dream. Open to hotel guests and members only.
50 - The Cocktail Lovers
TCL TIPS
FOR BERLIN... € € €
Don’t
Circus Hotel, Rosenthalerstrasse 1, 10119. T: +49 (0) 30 20 00 39 39. circus-berlin.de
…pack your posh frocks and fancy suits, Berliners don’t do ‘showy’ – particularly in bars.
We can’t praise this small artsy hotel highly enough. Located bang in the centre of the trendy Mitte district and a minute away from the underground station, it’s perfect for getting around. Even better, it’s laid-back, funky and heavy on free stuff and facilities including WiFi; loan of laptops, German mobile phone, camera and adapters; iPods loaded with Berlin sounds, plus rent a bike/ segway/Smart Car or Electro-bike and D.I.Y. Sightseeing Tours. Be sure to start your day with the breakfast and free, friendly, tailor-made advice from Michael Bern in its Fabisch restaurant. Circus Apartments coming soon.
Do
Prices from 80-100 Euros for double/twin room with ensuite facilites; 8 Euros breakfast buffet.
€ € € € € Soho House Hotel, Torstrasse 1, 10119. T: +49 (0) 30 40 50 440. sohohouseberlin.com If you want to hang with the beautiful, media-minded people, Soho House Berlin will be right up your strasse. Taking in the good, bad and ugly of Berlin history, this restored Bauhaus building was once a department store, the home of the Hitler Youth and used to house Communist Party archives. Not that you’d know it - these days it’s one of the most desirable addresses in town. As well as 40 fabulously decorated rooms (we could have camped out in room 14 until they prised us away), there’s the Cowshed spa and gym, screening room, indoor and outdoor restaurants and bars plus the magnificent rooftop pool. Prices from 100 Euros.
Eat Katerschmaus at Kater Holzig, Michelkirchstrasse 22, 10179. T: +49 (0) 30 51 05 21 34. katerholzig.de There’s a side of Berlin that’s almost too cool to care; for a prime example, visit Katerschmaus at Kater Holzig. For somewhere that’s decked out in graffiti and furnished with hand-me-downs and junk shop finds, it’s remarkably smug in it’s offering. That said, it really is worth booking up for. The decor is a triumph in eclectic chic and the food from the open kitchen ain’t too bad either. Service veers towards the “are-you-talking-to-me? I’ve-got-better-things-to-do-than-wait-on-the-likes-ofyou” school of things but ignore that and you’ll be privvy to some rather good cooking.
…assert your individuality with brightly coloured trainers or a funky scarf – it’s the details that count.
Don’t …do like the locals and stick to neighbourhood bars.
Do …go East, then West to fully appreciate the variety of talent and styles.
Don’t …worry if all the fabulous nightlife and open allhours bars mean you don’t see as much culture as you’d like.
Do …however, make time to visit the Berlin Wall Memorial & Documentation Centre (Bernauer Strasse 111, Berlin Mitte. berliner-mauergedenstaelte.de) – it puts everything about this fascinating city in to perspective.
Don’t …work yourself up about seeking out gourmet food, we’re not being rude but this isn’t one of its strong points.
Do …make sure you try the famous Curry Wurst at Curry 36 (Mehringdamm 36, 10961. curry36.de). It ain’t fancy but it sure hits the spot.
Don’t …be surprised if you see people smoking at the bar.
Do …make sure you only light up if you’re in a bar less than 75 square metres in size – confusing but that’s the law.
The Cocktail Lovers - 51
IN-vitation only
SNAPSHOT: Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months
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3. 1. Top class entertainment at the Class Awards. Old Street Classic Car Showroom, October 2011 2. Grand Marnier Ambassador Julien Lafond with Fabien Marcault and Aaron Jones of Salvatore at the Playboy Club, winners of the Grand Marnier Le Grand Bal. One Mayfair, October 2011 3. Salvatore Calabrese, winner of the Service to Industry award at the Class Awards. Old Street Classic Car Showroom, October 2011
52 - The Cocktail Lovers
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4. Sir Elton John, David Walliams and Ruby Wax at the Grey Goose Winter Ball to benefit the Elton John AIDS Foundation. Battersea Park, October 2011. 5. Dita von Teese at the launch of the Cointreau Prive pop-up bar. Pigalle Club, November 2011. 6. Martin Ball, winner of the Auchentoshan Switch competition. The Saatchi Gallery, 2011 7. Dame Shirley Bassey at the Grey Goose Winter Ball to benefit the Elton John AIDS Foundation. Battersea Park, October 2011.
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