ISSUE 14
WINTER 2015
The 2015 hotlist: The places, faces and products
Get the drinks in with‌ the drinks luminaries’ rising stars
Bars worth travelling for 15 to have on your radar right now
+The art and science of naming cocktails
ISSN 2052 0603
On the cover
Jamie Oliver does drinks: why cocktails are his next big thing
IN-tro
D I D S O M E O N E S AY
WHAT’S HOT
F O R 2 015 ?
OH YES,
T H AT WA S U S! So we had a ponder about the people, places and products we think you should have on your radar during the coming year and, at the risk of sounding smug, we’re pretty damned happy with the results. What should you be watching? Why Jamie Oliver’s Drinks Tube of course. Read our exclusive interview with the awesome Mr O and find out about his plans to brush up our drinks making skills and bring cocktails to the masses (p. 10). As for who you should be watching, we asked seven of the most respected people in the drinks industry including Peter Dorelli, Dick Bradsell, Tony Conigliaro and Nick Strangeway to nominate their rising stars and got them all in a studio, together with a rail full of clothes, plus a still and moving camera to document the lot. Check out the results (p. 32) and see the video on thecocktaillovers.com. Those are the people, what about the places? Find out the who, what, why and where on nine of the latest additions to the World’s 50 Best Bars list (p. 12), and discover some of the newest bar openings, from a profit-sharing scheme in London to a bar taking the spice route in New York (p. 56). And on the drinks front, we bring you the latest must-have spirits and cocktail essentials to add to your cabinet (p. 30), Professor Charles Spence provides a fascinating insight into how names affect our perception of drinks (p. 26), and Yolanda Evans highlights the tonics creating a stir in the States (p. 48). As it’s a new(ish) year, resolve to keep your resolutions firm. Find out how with Claire Smith-Warner and Georgia van Tiel’s column Drink, Eat, Live (p. 43), while Ben Norum predicts what we’ll be sipping more of in 2015 (p. 40). There’s plenty more to keep you informed and entertained, so sit back, relax and enjoy.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G www.thecocktaillovers.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
43. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Rocking Prohibition chic, sniffing out the good stuff and calling the shots, just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
Drink, Eat, Live Claire Smith-Warner and Georgia van Tiel on juice cleansing for health
10. IN-the hotseat Jamie Oliver Everyone’s favourite chef tells us about his life in food and his future in drinks
12. IN-spire Drinking establishments worth booking a flight for Need to know: the who, what, why and where of nine of the latest additions to the World’s 50 Best Bars list
20. IN-spire Adventures in taste Where art, science, flavour, magic and vivid imaginations collide, with Sam Bompas of Bompas and Parr
22. IN-the spotlight The A to Z of bars A fun look at the essential ingredients that make a modern bar tick
26. IN-the spotlight What’s in a name? More than you might think. Professor Charles Spence explains how the mind perceives the names of cocktails
30. IN-dulge Liquid treasures Rum, bitters, vodka and non-alcoholic tipples – ten new cocktail essentials you’ll be hearing more of this year
32. IN-style Get the drinks in with… Seven drinks luminaries and their rising stars. Peter Dorelli, Dick Bradsell, Tony Conigliaro, Nick Strangeway, Simone Caporale, Ben Reed and Alastair Burgess unveil their faces to watch
44. IN-focus Old favourites vs. new discoveries Do you rely on the same old, same old when restocking your shelves or put the myriad new spirits to the test? We argue the case for both
48. IN-dependent spirits That’s the tonic! Yolanda Evans looks at the tonics that are perking up glasses Stateside
50. IN-dustry greats A man for all seasons Chris Edwardes on heading up bars including the Atlantic Bar & Grill, running his own ventures and why hospitality counts
52. IN-the mix Feeling fresh Three fab veggie juices to make at home when you’re holding back on the sauce. By Dan Thomson from SuperNature
54. IN-formed Mains & Martinis Reviews from our pick of London restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
56. IN-formed Word up News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front
60. IN-sider’s guide Notts landing Where to drink in Nottingham by local bartender Joe Macbeth
62. IN-ternational Mad about Madrid Yes, Barcelona is cool but Madrid is also a hot destination for cocktail lovers
40. IN-focus
66. IN-vite only
Future proofing Ben Norum gazes into his crystal ball and predicts 15 key drinks trends to look out for in 2015
Snap shot The best drinks events, competitions and party pics from the last three months
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com Becky Roberts doodleyboo.co.uk Nick Schon nickschonillustrator.com Photography: Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com David Loftus; Ed Dabney edabney.com Contributors: Tom Elms; Yolanda Evans; Joe Macbeth; Rebecca Milford; François Monti; Ben Norum; Professor Charles Spence; Lauryn Tomlinson; Dan Thomson; Claire Smith-Warner; Georgia van Tiel For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover shot: © Jamie Oliver Enterprises Ltd. Photographer: David Loftus Issue No. 14 Winter 2015 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers in London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
25
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON
N1 o
TAKING SPANISH STEPS
Stampy feet, swishy skirts, that clickety-click of castanets – you’ve got to love flamenco. Fall under the spell at the Flamenco Festival at Sadler’s Wells from 16 February to 1 March. Of course sherry would be more authentic but as the G&T is officially the drink of choice in Spain (see p. 62), we recommend sipping one in the interval. sadlerswells.com
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Photography: javier suarez
Copping hold of Kate, drinking art and munching on boozy olives – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
IN-the know
02
3
Calling the shots Not the alcoholic kind, we mean the exquisite shot collections from Jo Loves. Get your fragrance hit in the form of soaps, bath colognes and candles, sold in gorgeous boxes of three. joloves.com
04
Rocking Prohibition chic
Step aside Christian Louboutin, there’s a new shoe with a red sole that’s blowing our mind. Oliver Sweeney has designed a brogue with a wee bottle of Johnnie Walker Red concealed in the heel – excuse us but is this guy a genius or what? oliversweeney.co.uk
SMELLING OF TWEED SPIRIT
Fans of Johnnie Walker Black can enjoy the ‘nose’ of their favourite whisky at all times woven in a new Harris Tweed, called aptly enough, the Fabric of Flavour. harristweed.org
05 MUNCHING ON BOOZY OLIVES
We’re loving the lush new treats from Olives Et Al. Why wouldn’t we – premium olives steeped in citrus-infused gin or vodka – it’s a no-brainer. Store in the freezer, add to your Martini or enjoy on ice on their own. olivesetal.co.uk
SIX...
Diets don’t stand a chance with the new brunch menu at Foxlow. Tuck into the ridiculously good all-day breakfast burger, or the fried chicken and egg croissant waffle washed down with a fine line in cocktails (see p.54) foxlow.co.uk
Three good reasons to order a Disa Goddess cocktail from The OXO Tower Bar: 1. It’s bloomin’ delicious. 2: £1 from each sale goes to the Fairtrade Foundation. 3. You get entered into a draw to win a £16,000 ring – boom! harveynichols.com/restaurant/the-oxo-tower
08
GIVING IN TO TEMPTATION
07
Imbibing for a cause
Sniffing out the good stuff Think of the Olfactic Dog Nose as a gentle douche for your nasal passage – pop it over your hooter 10 minutes before you’re ready to eat/drink to improve taste and enhance flavour. Really… lickmeImdelicious.com
09 BRINGING THE SUNSHINE IN
It may be winter outside but while we’re burning this zesty Mojito scented candle, inside it’s forever spring. And not a mint sprig or lime zest in sight. prezzybox.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
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11
HAVING OUR CAKE AND EATING IT
Feeling the strain
We’re talking Cosmopolitan, Mojito, Tequila Sunrise and Pina Colada flavoured sponges from PopKakery – bite-sized morsels of deliciousness. popkakery.com
This isn’t a cocktail strainer, this is the perfect cocktail strainer designed by Simone Caporale. It doesn’t come with a guarantee that, like him you’ll achieve Best International Bartender status but at least you’ll be getting close… cocktailninja.com
13. KEEPING OUR CHAKRAS IN CHECK
12
Making faces Scotch – a winner in the glass, absolutely stunning translated into warming shades for lips, eyes, cheeks and nails. Check the limited-edition Scotch on the Rocks collection available from Bobbi Brown. bobbibrowncosmetics.com
14
Getting a designer fix
Hello sexy – not you, we mean this curvaceous Plum Shaker by Tom Dixon. Not only does it do the job in the shaking department, it doubles up as a stylish ornament as well. Lust doesn’t even come into it… occa-home.co.uk
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We’ll start with the brews from PositiviTEA – seven unique flavours blended to balance mind, body and spirit, created by a writer, yoga teacher and tea devotee. positivitea.london
COPPING HOLD OF KATE Move over Marie Antoinette, the perfect coupe is now modelled on La Moss’s left breast. Get your hands on a pair now! Available in limited numbers from 34-restaurant.co.uk
17. 15
SIXTEEN INSISTING ON THE VERY BEST
We love the jagged hand-cut ice blocks but there’s something about the sinuous form of the Pininfarina Chivas Ice Drop that transforms an ordinary drink into an experience. Order one for the bar, or go for the Ice Drop Mould at home. chivas.com
BECOMING BEER BOFFINS With tastings, tours, workshops and all kinds of brewery busyness the inaugural London Beer Week running 16-22 February will be a great place to start. Bring it on! londonbeerweek.com
IN-the know
EIGHTEEN 19. MAKING OUT WITH BOMPAS & PARR
Weighing up the (drink) options Buy The Perfect Drink scales, download the free app and you’re off… Choose from 100s of recipes and watch as the virtual glass fills up on your screen in real time and tells you when to stop pouring – clever stuff. firebox.com
Who other than food experimentalists Sam Bompas and Harry Parr would concoct a cocktail to evoke the fun of the fair and transform it into a thrilling lube? All part of their Funland project for the Museum of Sex, New York. museumofsex.com
21
20
GOING GAGA FOR THE BABA
Plain old rum Babas are sooo last year, at St. James Bar the team have devised five variations, each paired with a different spirit. Indulge in the likes of Baba Cointreau Long Island Iced Tea, Baba Gin Pimm’s and Baba Vodka Moscow Mule – fabulously retro. sofitelstjames.com
KEEPING OUR TOOTSIES WARM Cocktails. On socks, what’s not to love? joyofsocks.com
HITTING THE BOTTLE
22 Drinking art
For a taste of colonial spirit try the bottled Bulldog Gin Zing – Bulldog London Dry Gin, Limca Indian lemonade and a pinch of Lemon, Fennel & Chilli Sea Salt. Yours from worldofzing.com
24
Imagine a framed picture that dispenses drinks, one that transforms into a new work of art as you fill your glass? No you haven’t had one too many, it’s Drinkable Art from Don Julio. Try it from January at mrestaurants.co.uk
23
Celebrating St. Patrick’s Day Irish or not, we want in! Our tipple of choice? The velvety rich, slightly spiced, single pot still Redbreast 12 Year Old. Why? Taste it and see for yourself. masterofmalt.com
ENJOYING PERFECTLY CHILLED MARTINIS Press a button and the mix of Reyka vodka, vermouth and Reyka bitters pumps through flash coolers, bringing the temperature down to the requisite -18 degrees. Coming to a bar near you. reyka.com
25 The Cocktail Lovers - 9
JAMIE OLIVER
NO ONE HAS BEEN MORE INSTRUMENTAL IN GETTING PEOPLE COOKING THAN JAMIE OLIVER. NOW, HE’S LOOKING TO DO THE SAME WITH DRINKS. WE SPEAK TO HIM ABOUT HIS BACKGROUND IN PUBS AND HIS LATEST CRUSADE – DRINKS TUBE, A DEDICATED CHANNEL AIMED AT BRINGING COCKTAILS TO THE MASSES What are your memories of growing up in a pub? So many happy memories. The thing that stands out most for me was the incredible smells of the food that dad was cooking for the customers. It was usually something roasting, so you’d get the most incredible aroma wafting through the pub. And later on, when dad got me to work in the pub (he didn’t believe in pocket money; you had to earn your keep), it was all about mucking in with the kitchen staff and working hard, clearing glasses and washing up; all the glamorous jobs. At the time, what was more important to you, food or drinks? Definitely food. I was only about seven when I started doing bits and pieces in the kitchen, and by the time I was nine or ten, I was helping the chefs with a bit of
10 - The Cocktail Lovers
Photography: david loftus
IN THE HOTSEAT
peeling or prepping. I didn’t really focus on the drinks as such – you don’t really until you’re an established teenager! Did you always know you wanted to work with flavours? I didn’t really know what I wanted to do, but I wasn’t very academic at school and so I had to find something practical I was good at and enjoyed. There were two things really – cooking and woodwork. I loved woodwork – I still do – and so I considered being a carpenter for a while, but in the end I decided to take a course in catering, and look where that got me! You worked with Matt Skinner on wines quite early on in your career, is wine an easier ‘sell’ than cocktails? Yes, Matt’s still a good mate. I suppose wine is more popular and readily available, but then I think what we’re trying to do with Drinks Tube is to make cocktails more accessible so that people think twice about whether they want wine or something a bit different. What are your thoughts on pairing cocktails with food? For me, it depends on the cocktail and it depends on the food. I think wine is losing its grip on being the
IN-terview
only drink you can have with a meal. These days food pairing with beer is on the rise and cocktails too. It’s all about the flavours – it isn’t about the setting or what’s appropriate – if the flavours work together, then both the food and the drink can be enhanced. Have you ever introduced any of the cocktails in your books, programmes or from Jamie’s Italian to the menu at your father’s pub, The Cricketers? Not yet, but then dad’s quite traditional. He’s just introduced a Connoisseur’s Wine List which is a big step. Maybe I’ll tempt him with a few cheeky cocktails soon and see if he’ll agree to put something on the menu! When did the idea for Drinks Tube come about?
What has the response been to the channel? It’s been brilliant. We launched the channel in April 2014 and we’re on our way to having 100,000 subscribers by the end of January. There’s some way to go before Drinks Tube catches up with its big brother Food Tube, but the reaction we get to all our videos is really exciting. Has your foray into cocktails been easier or harder than you thought? I’ve always been into making and drinking cocktails but by working with some of the best people out there, it’s shown me that I’ve got some way to go before I can call myself an expert! I’m learning though. Watch out Simone!
I set up my YouTube channel, Food Tube, to bring people brilliantly simple and delicious video recipes all year round. We’re working with fantastic new talent and people have really taken to it. We’ve got over one million subscribers now, which is just incredible to see. More and more people were asking for drinks too, so I thought ‘why don’t we have a channel for drink?’ We had a chat with Bacardi and they came on board as our exclusive spirits partner, helping us to do loads of things we wouldn’t be able to do on our own.
What are your favourite cocktail recipes to recreate at home?
What is the ethos of Drinks Tube?
What are you proudest of about the channel?
Drinks Tube is about celebrating all things drinkable. We do loads of cocktails of course, but also wines, beers and soft drinks too. We want to show people how easy it is to make fantastic drinks at home and give them the knowledge to buy the best drinks without needing to spend a fortune. We want to teach and entertain. We’re showing people that they don’t need to go to a fancy cocktail bar and spend loads of money – they can make delicious cocktails at home and impress their mates! Who is your target audience? Anyone who’s interested in drinks. Obviously, on the alcohol side they need to be over 18, but we’ve got a whole strand of soft drinks too – healthy juices, smoothies, milkshakes, coffee – there really is something for everyone. And it’s a global audience. We get comments from people all over the world telling us what they think of the recipes and sending us pictures of their creations. You’ve worked extensively with food, has it been difficult transitioning to drinks? Not really. I’ve always had drinks in my books, so it’s not exactly new for me. I’ve always been around great drinks people, whether they’re sommeliers, wine merchants or mixologists, so it’s as if I’ve worked with drinks almost as much as food. What have you learned from setting up Drinks Tube? That you never stop learning. Drinks Tube has opened my eyes to loads of things I never thought about and I’ve got to work with some of the best bartenders in the world – like Simone Caporale (p. 32).
You can’t beat a G&T when you’ve put the kids to bed and you’re looking to unwind. But one of the first cocktails I ever really loved was the Milano-Torino – the classic aperitivo. Recently I got to make that, and the Americano, with Giuseppe Gallo, [Martini Global Brand Ambassador] in Turin for Drinks Tube. For my birthday last year I got a vintage cocktail shaker with recipes down the side – I’m still working my way through those too. I think the amazing support from our friends at Bacardi has been inspirational – we couldn’t have done it without them. But I’m really just proud of all the content. I’m a fan of Drinks Tube as much as anyone and I just love watching what’s happening. Do you think Drinks Tube has/will change the public’s perception of cocktails? I think there is a perception that cocktails are expensive and you can only drink them when you’re in a bar and a professional makes them. I hope that people are looking at Drinks Tube and thinking ‘wow, I didn’t realise it could be so easy’. I want people to see that it’s okay to experiment. It might not always work, but you should have fun while you’re trying. Going back to your beginnings, what are your thoughts on the demise of the British pub and do you have any plans to step into this arena? Well, some pubs are thriving but many are struggling and that’s sad. I’ve no major plans to open a pub any time soon, although there may be a pub element to one of the Jamie’s Italian restaurants we’re opening over the next year or so. Lastly, what can we look forward to from Drinks Tube in 2015? More amazing and inspirational videos. For all things drinks and all the latest from Jamie Oliver and the Drinks Tube team sign up for updates at youtube.com/DrinksTube
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IN-spire cocktails go outside of this list. We do open a lot of beers and pour a lot of shots as well. Every menu cycle there is one clear best seller: the Pantone 7621, the Scorpio and the Painted Ladies have been the tops so far. What to look out for in your bar in 2015? No big changes on the horizon. We’ve recently launched a new menu and we’re very excited about it. What does being named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars mean to you? We are psyched about it and our neighbourhood regulars are very proud. It is an honour to be included on a list with so many of our friends and colleagues who we respect in the industry. But, as with all accolades, what really counts at the end of the day is whether or not the person sitting at the bar right now is having a great time. Where: 3010 20th Street, San Francisco. trickdogbar.com
3. William Elliott, Maison Premiere, New YORK
reaching beyond that aesthetic and attention to detail, I believe it extends to pursuing a tradition of quality and, most of all, kind hospitality. We are inspired by people who take things all the way, and the storied hotels and cafes of New Orleans and Paris seem to reflect that past time when places were institutions and people could observe history within their walls, night after night. On a cocktail and palate level, we opened as a cocktail and oyster bar and eventually expanded into having a full food menu. We have always fundamentally been a classic cocktail bar; guests love to test the depth of our library, and this always expands our repertoire. However, the introduction of a highly talented chef and kitchen has shifted our focus. We look for ways to express depth and narrative in cocktails without over-exposing them, if you will. I personally love this focus because it allows for exploration beyond some of the overbearingly overproof cocktails that are popular today. What does it take to be part of the team?
How long has the bar been open? Maison Premiere opened in late January of 2011, so we are about to enter our fifth year. Who set the bar up and why? The concept and design was almost exclusively executed by (owners) Krystof Zizka and Josh Boissy. All the elemental ingredients were chosen by them before the doors opened: a horseshoe-shaped bar, absinthe, a natural wine list, oysters. The physical design of the horseshoe bar was mostly the madcap genius of Josh Boissy. It is an entirely unique bar design to work behind, in the best of senses. How do you describe the look, feel and ethos of the bar? Our guests frequently ask the same question! Many people first take in the aesthetic experience of visiting us; Maison certainly evokes a time and place in a very detailed way. However,
14 - The Cocktail Lovers
A genuine love of hospitality over all else, plus stamina and speed. Cocktail knowledge and great technique are a given, but at a pinch, can be taught. The first three seem to be the real dealbreakers. Also, we are all (three at any given time) behind that tiny horseshoe bar together for eleven hours at a time. In order for that to succeed, each bartender must believe in the others like few bars I’ve witnessed before. At our volume, it truly is team sports back there! Who visits the bar? Can I say this without sounding cheeky? All the people you would want to visit you in that kind of room! It’s a place that a guest, after going once, will often want to show to their friends, which is of course the greatest honour. Over the course of four years, we’ve seen some regulars come and go, but every night there is still someone from those first few months. These people have come to mean so much to us, and connect us to our early sleepless months. In short, I think we offer many different kinds of experiences, and so we suit all different sorts. It has been an honour to serve politicians, chefs, actors and musicians in my time here, but in my experience, almost all our guests have some story worth serving.
IN-spire
7. Boudewijn Mesritz, Tales & Spirits, Amsterdam How long has the bar been open? Two years. Who set the bar up and why? T&S was opened by my partner Lydia Soedadi and myself. In the beginning, before T&S, Lydia and I began collecting vintage cocktail shakers and paraphernalia and this quickly escalated into an out of control hobby. Our home office/home bar was well on its way to becoming a mini-cocktail museum and business relations, friends and bartenders would frequently visit and hang out at our home bar well into the night. One thing led to another and we thought it was time to share our passion for history and drinks, and the idea for Tales & Spirits was born. This desire to share the history of our craft, as well as our passion for food and drinks, allowed us to share our hobby with the world as well as expand our hospitality consultancy business into owning and operating our own venue.
Everything! 95% of the cocktails on our menu are signature T&S cocktails, and we design our drinks to appeal to the general public, not specifically to cocktail aficionados or bartenders. We believe that drinking should be fun and we let this show in several aspects of our cocktail menu.
How do you describe the look, feel and ethos of the bar? T&S has old school charm with vintage chandeliers, antique cabinets and lots of dark wood. It’s high energy, high volume – we stress the fun factor in our serves, our hospitality and our vision. When entering T&S guests feel immediately at home, and we go out of our way to make them feel welcome and enjoy their stay in our home! What does it take to be part of the team? Personality! Technique and skill can be taught but a good personality with extraordinary hospitality cannot be learned. For us it is important that each staff member feels like a part of the family and that this is their home, and in turn they treat guests and the venue accordingly. Who visits the bar?
What are your best sellers? Our best selling cocktail is our house special #1 – The What if...? (Bacardi Superior, fresh lime and a pineapple-ginger shrub). What to look out for in your bar in 2015? More fun, lots of international guest bartenders, and T&S popping up in selected bars around the world! What does being named one of the World’s 50 Best Bars mean to you?
What are you proudest of on the menu?
Being named one of the World’s 50 best within two years of opening is an incredible honour and recognition from our peers in the industry. It reaffirms our belief that hospitality, fun, great food and killer drinks remain the pillars of being a successful bar.
Besides the fact that our cocktail menus are handmade from wood and stained with 100 year old original Abbott’s bitters?
Where: Lijnbaanssteeg 5-7, 1012 TE Amsterdam. talesandspirits.com
8. Ricardo Nava, Licoreria Limantour, Mexico City
Who set the bar up and why?
Our guests are a good mix of locals, expats and tourists. We reserve admittance to guests over the age of 21.
How long has the bar been open? The first Limantour opened three and a half years ago, and the second location opened almost two years ago.
The bar was set up by two of the partners, because one of them, Benjamin Padron, used to work for different alcohol brands in Mexico and he always believed Mexico needed a place with good cocktails and amazing hospitality. How do you describe the look, feel and ethos of the bar? The look and feel is more like an alternative place in a trendy zone, called Colonia Roma, where there are more options to have dinner, have a drink, it’s a cultural and artistic zone – like a Mexican Shoreditch. There are customers from 25 to 60 years old, it is a place where you can have a good drink with nice music, Art Deco furniture and great environment. What does it take to be part of the team? To be part of the bar team you must be someone who is passionate about what you do, always interested in learning more, interested in industry news, developing creativity and a love for hospitality.
The Cocktail Lovers - 17
Adventures in taste Inside the very inquiring mind of Sam Bompas, self-confessed fantasist and culinary wiz extraordinaire
Photography: ben ottewell
IN-spire
IN-spire
You can tell a lot about a person from the clothes they wear. Perhaps even more from the ease in which they wear them. Take Sam Bompas for instance. Only someone offthe-scale creative and uber confident would dream of (and get away with) wearing the loud, proud, mis-matched outfit he has on today. And his burgundy, pink and orange patterned shirt paired with red, blue and white jeans captures his brand of young English eccentricity – you know, that endearing mix of childlike wonderment and adult intellect – down to a tee.
I
t’s a contrasting look to the sharp monochrome outfit he’s styling out on the left. We first met in 2009 when he and business partner Harry Parr created a walkin gin and tonic. They called it alcoholic architecture. Downright wizardry was our description. First off, visitors had to pull on protective clothing before walking into a tiny, whited-out room with a giant wedge of lime and oversized straw propped up against the back wall. Not much to look at admittedly, but it wasn’t about out-and-out aesthetics, it was all about the experience. Gin and tonic vapour was pumped through the air, so thick, so heady it caught the back of the throat and clouded the eyes. To further evoke the feeling of wooziness, a slowed down 80s soundtrack accompanied by clinking glasses played in the background. And blow us down if it didn’t feel like we’d fallen head first into a glass fizzing with G&T. “That was fun wasn’t it?” says Sam, eyes widening with excitement when reminded of the event. He’s even more animated when asked how the G&T extravaganza came about. “When you look at the states of flavour, you have a cocktail which is a liquid – you can remove that to take it towards a solid, or take it in the other direction and create a vapour as a semi-liquid state”. Keeping up? He carries on, “It’s at the vapour state that things get really interesting as you absorb through the mucous membrane – the eyes as well as the nose. We realised that we could create an immersive experience and take things to an architectural realm. Vapour makes a great difference in terms of flavour perception – you taste things much better at high humidity. When the humidity is the drink itself you can pick out all the botanicals.” As you can guess, this is not your average drinks creator. In fact, there’s nothing average about Bompas or Parr at all. Bright, bubbly, posh – but in an affable, down-with-it way – in the past eight years the dynamic duo have built a very profitable business creating monumental culinary installations around the world. How’s this for a CV: projects have taken in fiendishly clever japes such as flooding a Grade I-listed building with four tonnes of punch to create an architectural punch bowl for Courvoisier; devising a full-scale organ, The Flavour Conductor, a jaw-dropping contraption utilising visuals and sounds, to highlight the notes in Johnnie Walker whisky; then there’s the Guinness Tasting Rooms in Dublin, specially designed to enhance the Guinness drinking experience. And that’s
just the scientific hi-jinks they’ve come up with for drinks. Other projects include cooking with lightening and lava and being commissioned to light up London’s skyline with multi-sensory fireworks for New Year’s Eve. Right now Sam is guiding us around Bompas & Parr HQ. It’s an impressive site, bursting with colour and originality. On one floor there’s a workshop taken up with projects in various stages of progress; next to it is an industrial-sized kitchen kitted out with neatly stacked moulds and shiny pans. Upstairs is the nerve centre where the team of 10, soon to be 12, fizz with ideas. “Between us we have all kinds of skill sets: journalists, technicians, architects, chefs, graphic designers, and draw on all kinds of experiences.” And to think it all started with jelly. “I was working in financial marketing and basically wanted to do something to satisfy my creative itch,” explains Sam. “Harry trained in architecture but had always wanted to be a chef. He used to throw these wonderful dinner parties and at one he made a beautiful blackcurrant jelly. That’s when we came up with the idea of having a stall selling jellies at Borough Market at the weekend.” But why jelly? “Everyone else was either selling savoury food or really heavy pastries – so we thought nice, light jellies would be perfect,” he rationalises. “We didn’t get the stall but we persisted with the jelly idea,” he laughs. Jolly good job too. While wobbly stuff still plays a part in their repertoire (“We do at least one a week – the glow-in-the-dark ones are really popular for funerals”), these days it’s the projects like the playground of pleasure they’ve created for the Museum of Sex in New York (p. 9), or the recent ‘upside down’ dinner they created for German vermouth company Belsazar (think levitating food and drinks served in the rocks) that really get people talking. And thinking. Which is the part that excites Sam. “Our job is to inform and entertain, we want to tell stories and give customers unique experiences and in turn, get people to ask questions.” One question on our mind is, has their quest for innovation, that push for unique experiences, made their jobs harder? “Not at all,” he says without hesitation. “That’s what keeps it interesting.” To find out more, visit bompasandparr.com
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Illustrations: melanie milne at melmadedesign Šmelmadedesign & the cocktail lovers 2015
IN-the spotlight
What’s in a name? The art and science of cocktail naming B Y
P R O F E S S O R
C H A R L E S
S P E N C E
IN-the spotlight
“The naming of a cat is a difficult matter,” wrote the Old Possum T. S. Elliot. So is the naming of anything. Names become their objects, objects their names; they reveal and conceal. The naming of food is full of surprises. “Tell me what a man eats and I will tell you what he is,” says Brillat Savarin. Telling you what he calls it is even more enlightening.” 1
J
ust how much of an influence does the name have on the taste, not to mention the long-term success, of a cocktail? At one level, the suggestion that a drink’s name could change its taste or flavour seems downright ridiculous, right? Surely, I hear you say, the taste of the drink resides squarely in the liquid in the glass. And yet, a growing body of scientific evidence now shows that how something tastes (or, more precisely, is perceived to taste) is, more often than we might imagine, influenced by the name we give it. And so, no matter how tasty the drink in the glass, if you want to make sure that your new-fangled creation is still around in the decades to come, then you better think very carefully about the name you choose! To give you some idea of the importance of naming, just take the following example from the three Michelin-starred chef Heston Blumenthal. A few years ago, he was disappointed to find that people simply didn’t like his new creation, a frozen crab ice cream. The punters complained that it tasted too salty. They complained, that is, until the name of the dish was changed. The problem, it turned out, was that given the ice cream’s bright pinkish-red colour, people naturally expected a sweet, probably strawberry, flavour. However, on taking a mouthful of Heston’s creation, they experienced a disconfirmation of expectation as a savoury flavour filled their mouth instead. Intriguing research from Martin Yeomans and colleagues at the University of Sussex found that if the dish was called ‘Food 386’2 or ‘Frozen savoury ice’ then, all of a sudden, people started saying that the dish tasted just right. Not only that, but they started to eat more of the stuff as well. Naming, then, can play an important role in directing the diner or drinker as to what to expect on the plate or in the glass. Generally speaking, if we taste what we expect, we like the ensuing experience much more than if the taste or flavour in our mouth takes us by surprise. Of course, there are exceptions. The names of certain cocktails are downright misleading. Just take the ‘Long Island Iced Tea’. A rather strange name for a drink that doesn’t contain any tea; nor, you will be relieved to hear, does the 1920s creation, the ‘Monkey Gland’, have any trace of our hairy cousins in it either. Sometimes, though, names are chosen to shock and to challenge. Just think of ‘Snail Porridge’, another classic on the menu at The Fat Duck restaurant. If the name of the dish had been translated into French the dish wouldn’t have created anything like the stir it did.
However, sticking a breakfast cereal next to snails is a beautiful example of naming that is designed to shock. When this dish first came out, the Daily Mail was, as can be imagined, outraged. “What has Heston done now? This time he has really lost his marbles!” you can almost hear the journalists say. Of course, what the modernist chefs are only now coming to recognize about the power of naming, is something that cocktail makers have known about for years. Some of the shocking cocktail names that any self-respecting drinker might think twice before ordering include the ‘Screaming Orgasm’, ‘Sex with an Alligator’, ‘Bra Buster’, ‘Between the Sheets’, ‘Sex on the Beach’, and the ‘Long Comfortable Screw’. With names such as these, no wonder that the esteemed Mrs. Beeton felt the need to comment on some of the extraordinary labels she saw being bestowed on the cocktails in her day (that is, back in the 1860s)! Sometimes, though, the name simply tells the story of the cocktail’s creation, or at the very least, hints at it. The Screwdriver, for instance, apparently got its name because back in the 1940s, American engineers would add vodka surreptitiously to cans of orange juice and stir the resulting mixture with their screwdrivers.3 Meanwhile, cocktail names such as the Zombie and the Harvey Wallbanger describe the likely effects that ordering one too many of these cocktails will have on the drinker. That said, closer inspection often reveals that there are a number of different plausible creation myths for the cocktails of yesteryear that have become today’s classics. So, for those wanting to get into the mixology movement, and, if they are lucky, to slip into the elite of legendary (and successful) Hall of Fame cocktail (name) creators, there are a few important guidelines to bear in mind: Be original; keep it clean and simple (the suggestion here being that the scandalous names of yesteryear would be less likely to succeed if introduced today); be aware of any copyright issues; make it relevant; tell a story; find the humour; and, as if that isn’t enough, make it timeless. There you go, then.4 So now, the only question is what is not in a name! For more on the art and science of naming see Spence, C., & Piqueras-Fiszman, B. (2014). The Perfect Meal: The multisensory science of food and dining. Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell.
1. Halligan, M. (1990, p. 94). Eat my words. London. Angus & Robertson. 2. A name that tells you that you don’t know what to expect. 3. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Screwdriver_(cocktail). 4. These recommendations summarized from Van Flandern, B. (2013) What’s in a Cocktail’s Name? [Online], Available: http://www.mymixologist.com/ whats-in-a-cocktails-name/ [28 April 2013].
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IN-dulge THE VODKA: Deep Eddy Lemon Fresh-tasting, gluten-free, lemon-infused vodka designed to be sipped and enjoyed over ice. deepeddyvodka.com
THE ‘CUP’: By popular demand, Vodka Pimm’s No. 6 comes back to Blighty in summer 2015. UK peeps get your orders in now. anyoneforpimms.com
THE RUM: Lamb’s Spiced Cherry Caribbean spiced rum, spices, cherry and almond – what’s not to like? This new expression from Lamb’s comes to the UK in February 2015, set for international release later in the year. lambsspicedrum.com
THE BLEND: Chivas Regal Extra Deeply delicious and downright desirable this rich blend of super premium whiskies is the first new expression to be added to the Chivas portfolio in seven years. thewhiskyexchange.com
THE NON-ALCOHOLIC TIPPLE: Azizi Classic This independently produced drink blends herbs and natural flavours for a wine-based tasting cocktail minus the alcohol. azizidrinks.com
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THE 2015 HOT LIST: THE FACES TO WATCH
GET THE DRINKS IN WITH…
The drinks luminaries and their rising stars Want to know who you should be watching out for this year? We asked seven industry greats to nominate their people to watch
IN-style
Simone Caporale, Assistant Head Bartender at the Artesian at The Langham and International Bartender of the Year chooses Rudi Carraro, bartender at the Artesian “Rudi is the person everyone should have on their team. He’s top of the list for creativity and originality and makes the machine run efficiently – he really knows how to run the show. He’s charming, gorgeous, works really hard and for these reasons, he deserves the spotlight.” Simone wears blue Albemarle fancy pindot suit, £695, Chester Barrie, Club stripe T-shirt, £125, Nicole Farhi; Rudi wears blue Hertford jacket, £560, and matching trousers, £220, both Favourbrook, bright pink pure linen shirt, £175, Budd Shirtmakers, purple and pink trim pocket square, £20, Sharp & Dapper.
IN-style
Peter Dorelli, former head bartender at The American Bar at The Savoy chooses Mirka Kohutova, bartender at Barbecoa “I met Mirka when I was judging the Dalmore competition and I was struck by her warmth and personality. She has a genuine passion for the craft and real charisma which is so important in this business. It’s all about the chemistry and making guests feel relaxed. From the way Mirka interacts with her customers, combined with her skill at making cocktails, I believe she has it all.” Mirka wears Flash print shirt, £150, Nicole Farhi. All other clothes, models’ own.
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IN-style
Top: Alastair Burgess, owner Happiness Forgets/Original Sin chooses
Above: Ben Reed, director of Cocktail Credentials chooses
Constança Cordeiro, bartender at Original Sin “I chose Constança because I want to highlight women in the industry – there aren’t enough of them. But it’s not only that. When I was recruiting staff for Original Sin I wasn’t looking for an all-female team – I wish it was part of a master plan – but it just so happened that the women were the best people I saw for the job. They were the nicest, the most generous, the most thrilled about the job and came with no ego. Constança embodies that – she just oozes confidence and personality and she’s also great at her job.”
“I’ve chosen Alex as he has, quietly, without clamour, shown what’s possible in our industry with hard work, determination and tenacity. He’s gone from Bartender to Bar Manager to Ops Manager and now reached the lofty heights of Distillery Manager of the first East London distillery for hundreds of years and yet his name is not as well known in the industry as it should be (how many ex (or current) bartenders are looking after a portfolio of five spirits, produced to their own recipes?). His time ‘behind the stick’ ensures that his cocktail skills and spirit knowledge are second to none.”
Alastair wears check Ebury jacket, part of suit, £695, Chester Barrie; Constança wears blue patterned jacket, POA, Ong-Oaj Pairam. All other clothes, models’ own.
Ben wears bespoke suit, Pokit (POA), teal end on end shirt, £135, Budd Shirtmaker; Alex wears Prince of Wales check suit, £1,200, Hackett, white shirt, £165, Turnbull & Asser.
Alex Wolpert, East London Distillery Co
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IN-style
Tony Conigliaro, head honcho at 69 Colebrooke Row, Bar Termini, Drink Factory and Zetter Townhouse, chooses Guillaume Le Dorner, (69 Colebrooke Row); Matteo Malisan, (Zetter Townhouse); Max Venning (Drink Factory) and Roberta Mariani (Bar Termini). “The two most important things to me are a sense of humour and excitement for the craft. The key reason why I’ve chosen Roberta, Guillaume, Max and Matteo is that none of them are happy until they are absolutely perfect in everything they do. They each have
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different traits but their umbrella qualities are speed and precision. My guys are good at what they do but they challenge me, which is great – I like to think of them as my conspirators.” L-R: Guillaume wears grey jacket, part of suit, £650, Hackett, teal Royal Oxford shirt, £155, Budd Shirtmaker; Matteo wears brown weave three-piece suit, £1,675, Thom Sweeney, blue Pinpoint shirt, £155, Budd Shirtmaker, red knitted tie, £45, Sharp & Dapper; Roberta wears pale turquoise leather dress, POA, OngOaj Pairam. All other clothes, models’ own.
IN-style
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IN-style
Above: Nick Strangeway, distiller, Hepple Gin chooses Jake Blanch, Hawksmoor Seven Dials “Despite the fact I know Jake’s parents, I honestly think he’s a wonderful bartender – in fact, I probably expect more from him because I know him personally. He comes from a family where the customer is at the forefront – it’s not about ego or being a star – that’s very rare for someone his age coming into the industry. It’s a great talent for someone so young to have, combined with his personality, creativity, confidence and charm. Plus he makes excellent drinks.” Nick wears grey jacket, (part of suit) POA, A Suit That Fits, purple Royal Oxford shirt, £155, Budd Shirtmaker; Jake wears checked blazer, £500, Hackett, striped ‘Leno’ shirt, £110, Chester Barrie. All other clothes, models’ own Right: Dick Bradsell, senior bartender at El Camion and industry legend chooses Bea Bradsell, bartender The Dead Rabbit Grocery & Grog “Bea makes me proud; we know, like and respect each other. She didn’t set out to be in this industry but she has a natural talent and most of all she’s a people person, plus she makes good drinks. The more you put in to this industry, the more you get out of it. I realised that and Beatrice does too – she’s a natural and she really cares. The first time I realised how good she was when I felt I didn’t need to rush back to the bar when I had a break – I was confident in her abilities, that’s a wonderful feeling. She doesn’t live off my name – her talent goes way beyond nepotism.” Dick wears navy windowpane check double-breasted jacket, £375, Hackett; Daniel check shirt, £78, People Tree. Bea wears yellow hat, POA, Alexander Harper. See the exclusive video of our shoot on thecocktaillovers.com Photography: Johnnie Packington Videography: Tom Elms Stylists’ assistant: Lauryn Tomlinson
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Stockist Details: A Suit That Fits asuitthatfits.com Alexander Harper alexanderharpermillinery.com Budd Shirtmaker buddshirts.co.uk Chester Barrie chesterbarrie.co.uk Favourbrook favourbrook.com Hackett hackett.com
Nicole Farhi nicolefarhi.com Ong-Oaj Pairim ong-oajpairim.com People Tree peopletree.co.uk Sharp & Dapper sharpanddapper.com Thom Sweeney thomsweeney.com Turnbull & Asser turnbullandasser.co.uk
Future proofing What will we be drinking this time next year? Quite possibly an aged agave cocktail served in a bottle and ordered on your phone, says Ben Norum. Here’s his pick of 15 bar trends to look out for in 2015.
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IN-focus Italian invasion
Terroir-ism
Expect the Negroni to become one of the most prominent pours. In London and beyond, bars are serving classic and twisted versions – and they’re branching out into other similar serves, too. 2015 will see the fullon explosion of the aperitivo, led by Spritz, Vermouth and other Italian-inspired drinks made with Campari, Aperol, Fernet Branca and the likes. You never know, Sambuca might even see a life beyond shots…
Terroir is a big deal in the wine world. The French term describes how the location, weather, climate and soil that grapes are grown in affects a wine’s taste. Now it’s starting to creep into the vocabulary of spirit aficionados too, particularly in relation to Cognac, rum, whisky, Mezcal and Tequila. It might sound a tad pretentious, but it makes sense given that the flavours of these drinks are also shaped by the grains, plants or fruits which are distilled to make them. So, don’t be surprised if you see the phrase increasingly bandied about by bartenders.
Whisky business It’s now over a year since whisky was distilled in London for the first time in more than a century, in a microdistillery in Battersea. We can’t drink it yet though – it has to age for three years and a day before it can legally be called whisky. That leaves us a couple of years, but what better time for bars and budding business people to get in on the act and start distilling their own? Small batch whisky is going to be the new small batch gin, we’re telling you... Saline sips There’s nothing pleasant sounding about the notion of salty drinks, but bear with us. From salted caramel at Basement Sate to pink Himalayan salt tonic at Dandelyan, a touch of sodium is increasingly being used to give cocktails a tangy and wholesome savoury edge. As others follow suit, we’re expecting to see the use of more naturally salty ingredients in cocktails – think olives, capers, seaweed and pickles. Use your bottle When Ryan Chetiyawardana opened White Lyan in Hoxton over a year ago, he raised eyebrows by serving pre-made cocktails direct from the bottle. Now you can buy his bottled booze in Selfridges, and a handful of other bars in the capital are following his lead. This year, we’re expecting to see bottles go big – in some cases literally, with large bottles made for sharing. Let’s get technical It’s quite possible that the way we order drinks will change more this year than the drinks that we’re ordering. In the States, apps are already in development that will allow drinkers to skip big bar queues by ordering on their phone, and – this is the really clever part – be found by waiters who use either super-accurate location-based technology or face-recognition software. Less futuristically, we’ll see an increase in iPad menus. Bigging up beer Small-scale breweries and craft beers are big business. Not only is pretty much every pub in London starting to stock local creations, but breweries are creating their own beer venues, and brewed drinks are competing with distilled for attention in bars. As such, we’re expecting not only to see a bigger range of beers available at cocktail-led venues, but also more merging of the two. Carbonated cocktails With the exception of those made with sparkling wine, fizzy cocktails don’t get much of an outing on serious bar lists. This could well start to change in 2015, as it already is doing in New York. The key to its uptake is that instead of using diluting ingredients such as sodas and tonics, bartenders are now using carbonation machines – similar to the Sodastreams you might have at home.
All about agave It’s not all that long ago that Mezcal first started making itself seen on back bars, competing for prominence with its better-known sibling Tequila. Both spirits have gone from strength-to-strength in the past year, but there’s more where they came from. We reckon 2015 will be the year that other, less commonly seen agave spirits – such as Sotol – arrive on the scene, bringing new and diverse flavour profiles with them. Better dig out your sombrero. Ginfinity and beyond Yep, gin is still massive. Expect to see even more ginspecialist bars, micro distilleries and infused gins this year. Fine by us! Tap them up You can already get Negronis, Mojitos, Mules and Cosmos on tap in a handful of bars in London but we’re expecting tapped ‘tails to go mainstream in 2015. As well as providing queue-busting quick service, it also means results are consistent, which is a very good thing in pubs or bars where staff aren’t cocktail experts. Gastrobars Food has well and truly forced itself upon pubs, and the same thing could be about to happen to bars. Last year saw 69 Colebrooke Row launch its first ever food menu, small plates are paired with cocktails at Brixton’s Three Eight Four, and Hawksmoor have brought out a bar-only burger menu. Could this be the year that bars go gastro? Dry drinks Despite several attempts, non-alcoholic cocktails have never made the big time. While we’re not expecting a booze backlash anytime soon, 2015 might just be the year they make some progress. The Cocktail Trading Company Development Bar & Table has a whole menu of ‘faux cocktails’, while others including Peg + Patriot and The Connaught are putting real effort in. Coming of age London’s top bars are all at it. Bartenders are laying down spirits and fully-mixed cocktails to age for anything from hours to months, picking up interesting and complex flavours along the way. The trend reached new heights when Silk & Grain opened in the City serving drinks that have been aged in charred oak barrels, glass bottles, metal and even leather; expect others to follow suit. See ya, speakeasy We’re going to whisper it, but we reckon the Speakeasy has finally had its day. There’re a lot of great ones out there, but the concept has become tired in the process. Who knows what 2015 will bring us to replace it, but we reckon good-time dive bars could be in the running.
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Illustration: nick schon Šnick schon & the cocktail lovers 2015
IN-focus
IN-focus
Old favourites
says Mr G
At the end of a long day I start to think about life’s simple pleasures and how one or two of them could be just the thing to ease my throbbing brain and aching muscles. Music, now that’s always welcome. A little Frank Sinatra swinging easily through Come Fly With Me? Or some challenging improvisational freeform jazz quintet that critics are raving about? Maybe a little light reading is called for. Should I reach for a well-thumbed familiar favourite or take a stab at that new critique of Western philosophy that was the talk of the Sunday supplements? I don’t know about you but the jazz and the philosophy aren’t doing it for me. Sorry. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with experiencing creativity that’s challenging or occasionally choosing to step outside my comfort zone. The thing is I don’t feel the need to always be challenged. And comfort zones, well they’re just so lovely and, comfortable. Likewise with the liquids that go into my drinks. Whatever I’m mixing or ordering there are certain ingredients that I know I can rely on. Tanqueray, Woodford Reserve, Chivas, Noilly Prat, Cointreau, Hine… Far from familiarity making for complacency the relationships I have with these old friends are infinitely rewarding. Of course everything was new once upon a time. And when does something go from new to newish, to been around for a while, to established and then finally become a classic? The likes of Sacred and Sipsmith are probably somewhere in the middle but I’m claiming them as old favourites thank you. As for new expressions from established brands, well, they come from good families. No doubt in three or four years time a few new names will have insidiously slipped under my radar and into my cocktails, and I’ll brazenly be claiming them as old favourites too, when even as we speak they are nothing more than a glint in a distiller’s eye. But then that’s one of the multitude of joys of a good spirit and a fine cocktail, there’s a helluva choice out there and we can mix and match what takes our pleasure. For now though I need to relax. I’ll put on some Sinatra and sip on my Old-Fashioned, mixed with an old favourite.
New discoveries
says Ms S
Brand loyalty? How quaint. Isn’t that something that happened in the Dark Ages? It’s a wonderful notion, particularly when it comes to drinks, and one my parents’ generation were happy to go along with. I remember when I was growing up our home bar was always stocked with the usual suspects. I can see the labels now: Teacher’s, Johnnie Walker Red and Haig whiskies, plus the occasional Hennessy cognac for medicinal purposes (yes, we did have a home bar – semicircular, cream padded vinyl, since you ask). Theirs was a finely tuned drinks list, much appreciated by our guests. It never changed. No white spirits (apart from the occasional overproof rum smuggled back in someone’s suitcase from the Caribbean), nothing weird and wonderful ‘just because’ or ‘that-looks-interesting’ impulse buys. But then again, their booze haul couldn’t change much. Choice wasn’t really an option. Not like now. We can’t move for more inventive, seductive and positively desirable products winking at us from the shelves and via the array of topnotch drinks sites. Artisanal bitters made in Aberdeen, new craft gins from remote distilleries in the Lake District, the latest whisky born and raised in downtown Brooklyn – you name it, there’s somebody, somewhere doing it. These days there are so many choices, so many exciting products vying for our attention and I for one have made it my mission to put them to the test. Yes, I’m a brand flirt. I make no apology for my penchant for flitting from one gin, rum or whisky to the other – in fact, I consider it my duty. It’s not just about the smaller brands I’m down for new expressions that come from the big boys too. How wonderful that, unlike my parents, we live in an age where new products – big, small and otherwise – are launched every day and even better that we’re able to order them at the click of a button. Some people, Mr G included, know what they like and resolutely stick to it. I see it as a travesty not to put all the hard work that’s going on on the drinks front to the test. New tastes, new stories, new experiences – what’s not to like about that?
Mr G’s top five old favourites
Ms S’s top five new discoveries
Chivas 18 chivas.com
Ford’s Gin the86co.com
Cointreau cointreaufizz.cointreau.com
La Quintinye Royal vermouth eurowinegate.com
H by Hine hinecognac.com
Bermondsey Tonic Water worldofzing.com
Tanqueray tanqueray.com
Bittermilk flavour compounds bittermilk.com
Woodford Reserve woodfordreserve.com
Cardhu Amber Rock discovering-distilleries.com
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Photography: cat milton
IN-dustry greats
C HRIS EDWA RD ES
A MAN FOR ALL SEASONS
FROM WORKING ALONGSIDE DICK BRADSELL AT THE ATLANTIC BAR IN THE 1980S TO RUNNING AWARD-WINNING BLANCH HOUSE 20 YEARS LATER, CHRIS EDWARDES KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT WORKING BEHIND THE STICK. WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM IN BETWEEN SEASONS AT HIS LATEST VENTURE, HIDDEN IN IBIZA. You have an incredible CV, please list some of the bars you’ve worked in. My first bar job was at the Chicago Pizza Pie Factory followed by Maxwell’s. I then opened and managed the Jazz Café before moving to the Groucho Club as head bartender for two and a half years. Ollie Peyton head hunted me to open the Atlantic Bar with Dick Bradsell, then I went back to Groucho as bar manager for another two and a half years. I was then head hunted by Damien Hirst to run the bar at the Pharmacy, followed by the G.E. Club at the Great Eastern Hotel. We then
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started our own thing, Blanch House in Brighton and the Hanbury Club prior to moving to Ibiza. That was then, what are you up to now? In 2010 I was offered a job in Ibiza, the kids had just flown the nest and it was the perfect opportunity for us to do the same. So having opened Aura, an amazing bar/ restaurant/night club, my wife and I found our perfect bar secreted away in Cala san Vicente in the far northeast of the island, called Hidden. I am also in the process of writing my book and Hidden closes during the winter so this allows me time to make my own booze, I hope to get my sweet vermouth into production this year. Who or what attracted you to the profession? When I left school I had a very dull job working as a sales management trainee. I went on holiday to Spain and l landed a job dancing in a night club (that’s another story)! Needless to say, I didn’t go back to that mundane job. I found work as a bus boy at the Chicago Pizza Pie Factory where I was quickly promoted to bartender. So getting into the profession was really only to enable me to earn money to return to Spain the following summer. What was the most important thing you learned in your first job? The most important thing I learned was being O.C.D. about the bar, everything has its place, everything should be facing front, all the pourers should be facing the same way, everything should be stocked up, backed up and spotless.
IN-dustry greats
Of the many and varied styles of places you’ve worked, which is/was: a) your all-time favourite? Blanch House in Brighton because it was an awesome multi-award winning bar with an amazing team creating totally unique drinks, and obviously Hidden because it allows me to tend bar in the summer and write and create during the winter. b) The one you learned most in? Probably Maxwell’s as when I started there I knew how to make 12 cocktails and they had a list of 250, I blagged my way into the job and I had to learn very quickly. It was also one of London’s most popular bars and we would be five-deep from 6pm until midnight every night so I also had to learn to work really quickly. c) the most challenging? Blanch House because it was our first venture – we had to design it, work within budgets and deadlines, get it open, make it popular and then keep it popular. d) most instrumental in shaping your career? All of the bars have had their influences for many different reasons, wherever you work you learn both how to do things and how not to. The Atlantic Bar was great in that I had the opportunity to work with Dick Bradsell, but it was not an easy place to work. Blanch and Hidden have been far the best creatively as I haven’t had to conform to someone else’s boundaries, Maxwell’s for pure speed, Pie Factory for sewing the seed, Groucho for the epic amounts of debauched fun and the contacts and friends I made. You started working in bars in the mid-70s, what are the biggest changes you’ve seen behind the bar in that time? The notable difference is in the availability of products. In the 70s there was probably one bottle for every one hundred now spirits-wise. There where no flavoured syrups, very little fresh fruit used and if you wanted to look up a recipe, you had to use a book. And what are the biggest changes you’ve seen in the people who frequent bars? They all used to wear flares and now they’re wearing skinny jeans! I think as cocktails have become more popular than ever before the customer’s knowledge has also grown, as it has with wine and food. Mind you, there are many people that remain uneducated. Sadly, I do think there are a few bartenders who have forgotten about customer service. Hey, at the end of the day we are here to make customers happy not to show off to bar friends. To your mind, what’s been the most pivotal change in the industry as a whole since you’ve been working in it?
How do you describe your bar tending style? Relaxed, adaptable to any situation, personable, occasionally erratic and a touch mad, comedic, air-tight yet filled with holes, left-field, eccentric, but mostly me. How, if at all, has it evolved over the years? When I was younger I would have told you I was brilliant. How and when did you and Amanda start working together and how do you complement each other in your businesses? We met in 1995 and started Blanch House in 2000. We have very similar ideas and her skill set complements mine: she does interior design (exterior in the case of Hidden) and did all the press and PR for Blanch, The Hanbury and now Hidden. She has also taken on the menu and recipes for the food. I do the bar and the maths and also have an input on the design stuff as well as the everyday running of the business. Whose bar tending style do you admire and why? When I started my boss at Maxwell’s, Mike, was a great bartender, fast, well organized, mad as a box of frogs. I love Dick Bradsell’s style, Ben Reed when he was at the Met bar, Erik Lorincz at the Savoy, Paul Mant and Zdenek Kastanek, Jake Burger (The Portobello Star – the perfect host), Ago Perrone at the Connaught for sheer class, Alastair Burgess at Happiness Forgets, Jack McGarry at The Dead Rabbit, Bobby Hiddleston at High Water, Gianfranco Spada, Dre Masso. Then there’s all my ex staff, Matt Keegan, Simon Warneford, Chris Betts, Hazel Townsend, Myles Cunliffe, Paul De Newtown, Ben Leggett and let’s not forget Stu Hudson, Andrea Montague and the inimitable Mr. Jim Wrigley and finally my kids, Jake Blanch who is at Hawksmoor Seven Dials and India Blanch who is at Call Me Mr Lucky – she has just won her first cocktail competition. Hey, you asked… Any exciting projects lined up for 2015? My book is well under way, it’s not just another cocktail book, though it will include some of my favourite recipes. I’m also making my own herbal liqueur and have perfected my sweet vermouth which will go into production in 2015 – it’s fortified with tequila and sweetened with agave syrup. Then there are the shirts and hats that I’m designing. And yes of course I’ve made a gin, hasn’t everyone? Hidden Bar, 5 Carrer Cala San Vicente B, Sant Joan de Labritja, PM, 07811, Spain. T: +34 971 320 253. info@hidden-bar.com
The re-popularization of the cocktail in the 80s, people’s knowledge within the industry, the global emergence of the bar family due to social media – there are so many.
The Cocktail Lovers - 51
IN-formed
MAINS & MARTINIS
RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD
Foxlow
Chicken Shop
Tredwells
69-73 St. John Street, London, EC1M 4AN. T: 020 7014 8070. foxlow.co.uk
199-206 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7BD. T: 020 7661 3040. chickenshop.com
Who: Foodies with an appetite for fun. What: The best comfort food in London. When: (L) Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm, Sat & Sun 11am-3.30pm; (D) Mon-Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm. Wear: Roomy casual to accommodate the riches on the menu. Ms S says: We went for brunch and with the winning combo of good food, convivial atmosphere and cracking cocktails would have happily stayed until dinner. Hot dish: Fried chicken and egg, croissant waffle – a taste revelation, particularly as I don’t even like fried eggs. Hang the calories, the combination of flavours and textures get top marks. Cool cocktail: Naganori (Campari, lemon, Orangina) – light, crisp and gorgeously refreshing – my new brunchtime favourite. Mr G says: The perfect place to kickstart the weekend as brunch gets a deft makeover with a nifty food menu and drinks that nod nicely to breakfast and even more to lovely cocktails. Hot dish: The All Day Breakfast Burger. Yes, it’s a proper good old fashioned breakfast (bacon, sausage, egg and mushroom), but served burger-style in a packed bun so it feels like lunch. So simple, it’s genius. Cool cocktail: Porridge, why eat it when you can put it in glass to amazing effect? Wild Oats Flip (Chivas Regal, porridge syrup, whole egg) is smooth, extremely delicious and is probably contributing to your required fibre quota for the day.
Who: Chicken lovers of all ages. What: Free range chicken from the spit. When: Mon-Fri 12pm-12.30am; Sat 5pm12.30am. Wear: Casual. Ms S says: Start with a cocktail upstairs at Hubbard & Bell in the Hoxton Holborn hotel, then pop down for your chicken fix. Here done one way, simply on a spit, with a minimal selection of well-judged sides. Job done. Hot dish: The chicken, obvs. Keep it light (and save room for pud), go for a quarter and pair it with the butter lettuce and avocado salad. Cool cocktail: Fig Sazarac (Courvoisier Exclusif, Bulleit Rye, fig bounce, pimento bitters, absinthe) – a delightful fruity twist on one of my favourite classics with the spirits still shining through. Mr G says: Be prepared to get messy – in a good way. Roll up your sleeves and get stuck into chicken, crinkle cut chips and fabulous corn on the cub. Who needs cutlery? Hot dish: Don’t mess with a quarter or half, what you and your date want to order is a whole chicken. And make sure to have some succulent corn on the cob too. It ain’t fancy but what it does, it does real well. Cool cocktail: The Soho Negroni (Bombay Sapphire, Suze and Martini Bianco), it may be clear but that doesn’t make it just a gimmick. It’s actually an ever so slightly less bitter version of the classic which might cause purists to raise an eyebrow but it’s really a rather nice variation.
4a Upper Saint Martin’s Lane, London, WC2H 9NY. T: 020 3764 0840. tredwells.com
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Who: Pre- and post-theatre crowd and fans of Marcus Wareing. What: Modern London cooking in a relaxed but stylish setting. When: Mon-Wed12pm-3pm, 5pm-11pm; Thurs-Sat 12pm-11pm; Sun 12pm-9pm. Wear: Casual chic. Ms S says: This spot has been through various foodie incarnations but this one is my favourite. They’ve given it an intimacy and warmth, and the perfectly balanced dishes make it well worth a visit. Hot dish: Lamb chop and minted bean chutney – just the way you want it, cooked to perfection and bursting with oodles of flavour. Cool cocktail: Down The Apples & Pears (Belvedere vodka, apple, pear, elderflower, thyme) – great name, wonderfully perky cocktail bursting with orchard goodness. Mr G says: Bustling and big, it’s the kind of place you drop into rather than plan a night around, but none the worse for that. Start or conclude your evening here and you’ll be well happy. Hot dish: Slow-cooked pork belly, braised pigs’ cheek, apple sauce and nutmeg fitted the bill very nicely, thank you. Cool cocktail: A highball isn’t usually my kind of drink but the reference to an Agatha Christie mystery was, not surprisingly, intriguing. Far from lifethreatening, Sparkling Cyanide (Green Chartreuse, Maraschino, lime and soda) made for a tasty pick-me-up.
IN-formed SWEDEN
COLOGNE
3) Open/Closed
5) Little Link
Duå Delikatessbutik, Storgatan 48, 90326 Umeå.
Maastrichter Strasse 20, 50672, Cologne. littlelink.de
Who’s behind it? Per and Lars Akerlund, with cocktails by Emil Areng.
Who’s behind it? Stephan Hinz.
What’s the story? Open, is the hip, happening deli during the day; Closed is the funky 16-seater bar which takes over in the evening. Emil Areng has a fortnightly changing, themed menu which operates like a four-course dinner; starting with ‘Shim’ (low alcohol), on to ‘Stiff ’, then ‘Refreshing’ through to the ‘Dessert’.
What’s the story? Stephan’s aim is to provide the missing link between bar and kitchen, guest and bartender. On the ground floor you’ll find a modern styled, cosy bar; the basement is home to the ‘linked’ table where guests can share the Little Link molecular experience.
What’s on the menu? That depends on which fortnight you visit but expect expertly made, fresh, foraged, seasonal cocktails.
What’s on the menu? Culinary cocktails including anything from salmon gin, parmesan or eucalyptus, served in vessels such as test tubes and egg cups – all matched with seasonal bar food served on the side.
Check it: Wed-Sat 6pm-late.
Check it: Mon-Sat from 7pm.
PARIS
NEW YORK
4) Baton Rouge
6) Mace 649 E. 9th Street, East Village.
62 Rue Notre Dame de Lorette, 75009, Paris. Who’s behind it? Julien Escot and Joseph Biolatto. What’s the story? Echoes of Louisiana, Bayou and New Orleans will be evident in the look and feel of this eagerly awaited 40-seater bar from two of the most highly regarded bartenders in France. What’s on the menu? Both the food and cocktails will pay tribute mainly to New Orleans culture but will be personalised with Escot and Biolatto’s award-winning style. Check it: Opening mid-February, Mon-Sat 6pm-2am.
LAST ORDERS DJ, presenter, writer and cultural commentator, Georgia L-A is one third of The Fox Problem. We caught up with her in between gigs to ask her to share her imaginary last drink with us. What would your last drink be? An elderflower bellini, but as it’s my last one ever I think we can upgrade the prosecco to champers right?! Bubbles that taste of summer? Yes please! Where would you have it? I’d go to Isla Grande, an island off Rio where no cars are allowed. But hopefully we could organize some kind of small festival there. So we’d have good music, interesting people and some bonfires in the evening. Who would you share it with? I think I’d just take my parents and my mates over any of the famous people I’ve met. Erykah Badu could provide the tunes, but I’d also need a good garage DJ… And could we get Craig David over to play the whole of Born To Do It album for us exclusively?! Also if Ryan Gosling was around and wanted to give me a cuddle goodbye, I mean that’s also fine… Series three of The Fox Problem coming soon. See series one and two at youtube.com/user/TheFoxProblem
Who’s behind it? Greg Boehm from Cocktail Kingdom, Zach Sharaga and Nico de Soto. What’s the story: It’s still early days so not much could be revealed at this stage. What you do need to know is the bar will be situated on the site of the former Louis 649 and will be based on a modern spice shop. What’s on the menu? Each of the dozen cocktails on the menu zones in on a particular spice. Check it: Opens March 2015.
BUY THE BOOK The Curious Bartender: An Odyssey of Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies
That Tristan Stephenson is a clever so-and-so. First he allowed us to pry inside his enquiring mind and discover more about the intricacies of drinks with his first tome, The Curious Bartender: The Artistry and Alchemy of Creating the Perfect Cocktail, now he’s singled out the world of whiskies. Great for those who already know about the category but particularly those who don’t. A must-read. Published by Ryland, Peters & Small Ltd. Available from amazon.com
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IN-formed How To:
The
Cocktail
Girl
In pursuit of spiritual enlightenment in London’s bars
Peony In traditional Chinese culture the Peony is also known as ‘the flower of riches and honour’, and symbolises prosperity and romance. Well, what better name for the little sister-bar of Opium, recently opened alongside its more boisterous brother? Finding Peony is almost like approaching a Chinese puzzle-box. It’s nestled within the labyrinth of another hidden bar – famous to those who know its whereabouts but unobtrusive from the outside. Connoisseurs who have ventured behind the jade door of Chinatown will already know Opium’s score. Attractive and inspired cocktails, making the most of Far Eastern influences, with some gaudy and tongue-in-cheek curios thrown in too. As a fan of Opium, this cocktail girl couldn’t wait to get her sip-on and try out the new addition. Booking is advised – the twenty-five cover space is wonderfully intimate and gives that extra sense that you’ve happened upon a glorious secret. Now, the bloom of Peony has bought an altogether more sophisticated and chic drinking den to Chinatown. There are still the beautiful touches – Oriental decor, and a stunning canary-yellow wall adorned with swooping birds, upon which are various teapots that you can choose to drink your libations from. Plus they’re serving the mouth-watering dim sum that is surely the best accompaniment to cocktails you can get. The concise menu boasts both cocktails and sharing punches, and is best navigated with the aid of Rasa, our charming hostess. She runs the bar and advises on what would quench our particular thirst. One concoction that absolutely must be tried is the Golden Sazerac. Made with El Dorado 12 rum, bitters, goji syrup and a dash of absinthe, it’s a potion of golden nectar and arrives with the due amount of theatre. A gorgeous decanter and the addition of ginger and lemongrass smoke makes this a feast for all the senses. And wow – what a taste. To try something a little different, go for the Hot Green Chivas. Chivas Whisky, green tea, honey and lemon, with the spicy addition of cloves, this is a pimped-uppunch reminiscent of a toddy, served warm. Almost medicinal, surely? So, for those wanting a little oriental glamour, you can do no better than Peony. One visit and I already feel a cocktail romance blossoming. 15-16 Gerrard Street, London W1D 6JE. T: 020 7734 7276.
CREATE A STIR EACH MONTH 14th February
Valentine’s Day Something with fizz The Royal King Upon Valentine’s Day, King Edward VII would have only offered the finest of gestures. We imagine that only a measure of the delicious King’s Ginger Liqueur charged with Champagne would suffice as the most suitable of cocktails to offer on this day. 35ml The King’s Ginger 140ml Champagne or Sparkling Wine Method: Pour a generous measure of The King’s Ginger into a flute. Add chilled Champagne/sparkling wine to taste.17th
17th March
St. Patrick’s Day something with Poítin, the original Irish spirit Glendalough Poítini 70ml Glendalough Poítini 5ml Extra Dry Vermouth Method: Fill a mixing glass with ice cubes. Add vermouth. Stir for 15 to 20 seconds to coat ice with the vermouth. Add the Poítin. Strain into a chilled Martini glass and serve with green olives. glendaloughdistillery.com
23rd April
St. George’s Day something decidedly British Brits Spritz 35ml Kamm & Sons 15ml elderflower cordial 50ml sparkling English wine 50ml soda water Method: Build ingredients over cubed ice and stir well. Squeeze a wedge of grapefruit into the glass and garnish with a cucumber slice. kammandsons.com
DID
YOU KNOW?
It’s illegal to feed alcohol to moose in Alaska and fishes in Ohio… The Cocktail Lovers - 59
NOTTS LANDING A bartender’s guide to Nottingham’s cocktail bars. By Joe Macbeth
I
think an apt analogy for Nottingham and its cocktail scene is that it’s like an old, banged up spirit cabinet that you’ve recently had refurbished. A while ago, the city was synonymous with gun and knife crime, and a night out consisted of heavy pints and a dirty kebab. Bars and clubs were closing down and the city was desolate with vacant lots. But recently there has been a cocktail renaissance and new life has been breathed into the derelict streets. Boilermaker 36b Carlton St, NG1 1NN One of the leading lights of Nottingham’s cocktail resurgence has been Boilermaker. A laid-back speakeasy, hidden away behind a fake boiler room entrance, the bar is home to some of the quirkiest cocktails in town. The bar specialises in the spectacular, each drink is a showpiece with eccentric glassware and unusual ingredients; the Rum Q.M.C is served in a bio-hazard bottle equipped with a syringe while the Snail Mail comes in an envelope with lemon fog. They also champion the return of aperitifs. Don’t expect to mingle though, Boilermaker is strictly table seating, so enjoy the company of your friends whilst sipping some outlandish concoctions.
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Also check out Boilermaker’s sister bar ‘Junkyard’. Hidden away behind the Ibis Hotel, the bar stocks a mind-boggingly vast collection of American craft beers, lagers and ales. It also serves up some fine grub with pancake breakfasts and a selection of homely, grazing options in the evening. boilermakerbar.co.uk / Junkbars.com Brass Monkey 11 High Pavement, NG1 1HF A Nottingham cocktail bartending legacy, Brass has been going for 15 years and has consistently been home to some of the best bartenders in the country. A smallscale venue with limited seating, it has a great cocktail menu and a fun, late night atmosphere, especially popular amongst industry professionals. Currently under the leadership of Liam O’Brien, the bar is going through a Mexican phase with an impressive selection of tequilas and mescals available. If that sort of stuff interests you then get in early doors and bend Liam’s ear, you’ll soon find yourself living, breathing and drinking all things agave. brassmonkeybar.co.uk
IN-sider’s guide
Tilt 9 Pelham St, NG1 2EH One of my personal favourites, Tilt is the epitome of great drinks, service and atmosphere. A tiny, little venue, you’re best served visiting midweek. The bar is situated in a great Tudor-style building with authentic rickety floors, dark wood and dim candlelight. It’s home to some great live jazz entertainment and the cocktails are a wonderful selection of simple, tasty drinks packed full of fresh and flavourful ingredients. Try the Steve McQueen, a banana Bourbon Sour with an ostrich egg. Also check out Tilt’s sister bar and restaurant, The Pelican Club, essentially a larger scale Tilt with a great, rustic Italian food menu.
its own inside a comfy, sofa-filled seating area. There is a hoppy selection of American beers, stouts and ales. There are milkshakes, floats and American soft drinks galore, alongside an American sweet shop counter and a cocktail menu consisting of bourbon-led drinks, including Homer’s Julep, (donut-washed bourbon, mint, raspberry jam and bitters), the Coney Island Cooler, (American gin, cotton candy syrup, lemon juice, strawberries and cream soda), and the Hickory Manhattan, (fig-infused bourbon, Frangelico, sweet vermouth, cinnamon bitters and a hickory-smoked finish). There are also rumours of a Pac-Man arcade machine on the way. Exciting times. facebook.com/rubyourselfie
tiltbar.co.uk / thepelicanclub.co.uk Rum House/Bad JuJu 9 Broad Street, NG1 3AJ If you travel down Broad Street you’ll find yourself stumbling upon two rum bars on drastically different ends of the spectrum. Downstairs you have Rum House, a 1920s style, classic rum bar reminiscent of a private members club out on the sunny shores of Cuba. Exposed brick, Chesterfield sofas, old wooden rum barrels, the bar is classy and subtle in its own ways, with a delicious old school rum menu and a kitchen that pumps out an array of Caribbean tapas. Upstairs, you’ll find it’s sister bar, Bad JuJu. Loud and all-out tiki, JuJu is a great place to dance and blow through some Zombies and Pina Coladas.
L-R: Candy Cane Cooler, from rub smokehouse & bar; cereal killer mark ii on the menu at boilermaker
rumhouse.co.uk
Also check out...
The House of Coco Tang 45 Bridlesmith Gate, NG1 2GN
Fire & Ice 40 Bridgford Road, West Bridgford, NG2 6AP
Tailored to the higher end of the student market, Coco Tang is a high tempo underground cocktail bar and nightclub with a distinctly Asian look and feel. The cocktails are sugary sweet concoctions, fun and playful; their Toblerone and Parma Violet drinks always go down a storm. Personally, I’m a fan of their Popcorn Romance, a combination of popcorn syrup, rum, bourbon, egg and spices. Another popular drink is the Blue Dolphin; chocolate raspberry vodka, vanilla, lemon, Blue Curaçao and a passionfruit foam. The Disco Age of cocktails reigns supreme at Coco Tang.
If you’re looking to avoid the hustle and bustle of the city centre but still want a decent cocktail bar with a lively atmosphere, then Fire & Ice is the place to visit. Some all-star female bartenders such as Abi Braithwaite and Leanne Cartwright man (or woman) the decks, under the expert tutelage of Emma Tirel. Tasty stonebaked pizzas and an array of both classic and original cocktails await.
cocotang.co.uk Rub Smokehouse & Bar Units 6 & 7, One Fletcher Gate, NG1 1QS Brash, fun and all-American, Rub is a new player in town and my new bartending home. The Smokehouse is all about guilty pleasures; 80s and 90s cheese-tastic tunes, over-the-top dishes, such as the epic double cheeseburger cooked inside a calzone, and a cocktail menu that’s all about tasty drinks with classic American flavours. The decor is reminiscent of a Kentucky backyard smokehouse; random clutter adorns the walls, astroturf carpets the floor and the tables are all converted pallets. The bar not only supplies the restaurant but also has thirty covers of
fireandicewb.co.uk The Lacehouse The Lace Market, 32a Stoney Street, Broadway, NG1 1LL Found inside an old, converted lace factory in Nottingham’s picturesque Lace Market district, the bar is a convergence of three key ideas: games, rum and funky music. Reminiscent of Cheers, the bar is home to a host of regulars and the bar staff are quick to learn your name and drink of choice. There are table tennis tables, board games, giant Jenga and a secret cinema, so entertainment is free flowing. The bar is also home to Nottingham’s largest rum collection with 85 rums currently on the back bar and a tasty range of rumcentric cocktails. thelacehouse.com
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IN-ternational
Forget the ‘who has the better football team’*, or ‘where’s best for culture’ debate, there’s another big question in the age-old Madrid vs Barcelona conundrum: which is the best destination for cocktail lovers? We won’t pretend, with treasures like Boadas, Mutis and Ohla Bar ar in its corner, Barcelona takes some beating. But just like in the footie, Madrid isn’t prepared to give in without a fight. One thing both cities have in common is an insatiable thirst for gin, with tonic (or gintonic as they like to call it). It’s the bars who are trying to do something different that really stand out. Here’s our pick of a few worth having on your list.
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IN-ternational
upstairs at platea
1862 dry bar
dry cosmopolitan bar
THE COCKTAIL LOVERS’ HOT LIST 1862 Dry Bar
Dry Cosmopolitan Bar
Calle Pez 27, 28004, Madrid. T: +34 60 953 1151. facebook.com/1862DryBar
Calle de Hermosilla 2, Hotel Gran Melià Fènix, 28001, Madrid. T: +34 91 431 6700. javierdelasmuelas.com
The first clue that this is a bar worth taking seriously is the inspiration behind its name: 1862 is the year Jerry Thomas wrote his bartenders bible How To Mix Drinks. It’s also the year that the building this neighbourhood bar stands in was constructed. Happy coincidence? Possibly, but one that owner Alberto Martínez has chosen to run with. The story goes that when he opened the bar in 2012 he was determined it would be devoted to cocktails even though he worried that the gin tonic brigade would still request their preferred tipple. He anticipated selling 80% G&Ts, 20% cocktails. These days the opposite is true.
Take no notice of the Cosmopolitan bit, this Dry bar is a relative of Javier de las Muelas’ award-winning Dry Martini in Barcelona. And as that formula is far from looking broke, the family haven’t made any attempt to fix it. The Madrid outpost is located in a smart hotel, the kind of place frequented by older Americans – which might not gel under normal circumstances but as this is a classic cocktail served in a classic environment, the partnership works really well. Bonus points for the summer terrace that opens up on to Plaza de Colon.
With good reason. Of the 30 or so beauts on the list, most are featured in Jerry Thomas’ book – real classics for genuine cocktail lovers. The look of the place appeals too – intimate, independent and a little quirky – like a really cool home. We like their eye for detail with touches such as the specially commissioned lamps, oversized mirrors and eye-catching quote on how to make the perfect Gimlet, from Raymond Chandler’s The Long Goodbye, splashed across the central bar. The downstairs area is even cosier with a tiny retro bar and cool collection of vintage glassware. All-in-all, a must-visit for drinks, looks and atmosphere. Bar Cock Calle de la Reina 16, 28004, Madrid. T: +34 91 532 2826. barcock.com Dating back to 1921 consequently Bar Cock still has pull appeal. We’re told that it was a former brothel with a tunnel connecting it to Museo Cicote (see below). Whether that’s true doesn’t matter a jot but it certainly adds to the history. To be honest, our drinks were pretty nondescript (a soso Manhattan and an average Old-Fashioned), we were more taken with the decor, a curious high-ceilinged, dark wood recreation of an English gentleman’s club inspired by an upscale London pub. Weird and wonderful at the same time.
You’d be mad to come here and not sit at the bar, madder still not to go for a Martini – they certainly know how to do their stuff; thank heavens for that or it could be embarrassing… Call your brand of gin or vodka, specify your preference (dry, wet, dirty, twist – you know the drill), and watch as it’s prepared at ‘the altar’. It’s gimmicky but rather fun to see as your Dry Martini adds to the overall tally on the Martini counter – don’t leave without trying one and collecting your certificate. Domo NH Collection Eurobuilding, Padre Damián, 23, 28036, Madrid. T: + 34 91 353 7300. nh-collection.com Where Diego Cabrera goes, the Madrid cocktail cognoscenti follows. So while his latest venture is located in the straight-laced financial centre, his reputation is guaranteed to draw in a younger, more funky crowd – particularly as he no longer has anything to do with Cabrera, the hotshot bar which takes his name. It’s now above the door (along with acclaimed chef Paco Roncero) here, and while when we visited Cabrera had yet to put his plans into place, that didn’t stop him from showing us round and talking excitedly about his ideas. Firstly, the venue: 30million euros have been spent on the place so far and corporate types will probably like it as it was when we saw it – bright, light, red, gold and white – very sleek but kinda soul-less. Cocktail lovers will prefer the bar area when Cabrera has cozied it up
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with his proposed softer furnishings, muted colours and intimate zones. Both parties are sure to appreciate the drinks though.
Museo Chicote
Cabrera treats his cocktails with the reverence Michelinstarred chefs bestow on their dishes – you’ll find the ingredients in his drinks appearing in the food and viceversa, so expect plenty of mise en place. For instance, beef in the restaurant will be served with an Old-Fashioned sauce and oysters with a Margarita; in the bar cocktails will be made with organic vegetables and herbs grown on the terrace. To make it even more creative, half the team will be chefs, half bartenders. The idea is customers will order drinks off menu, in accordance with their mood. But for those who don’t want to play, there is a menu for the classics. Go check it.
Closed on a Monday when we visited but this would definitely have been on our list. Why? Ernest Hemingway knew a thing or two about where to drink and this was one of his favourites in Spain. Opened by Pedro Chicote in 1931 its something of an institution round these parts – Frank Sinatra, Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly have all rocked up here at some point and by all accounts, it still pulls in quite a crowd.
Gin Club Calle Reina 16, 28004, Madrid. T: + 34 91 521 3198. grupomercadodelareina.com/en/ginclub-en
Gran Via, 12, 28013, Madrid. T: +34 91 532 6737. grupomercadodelareina.com/en/museo-chicote-en
That might also be because of its location: it’s on the busiest street in Madrid, as well as the fact it still boasts the original Deco decor and furnishings and has a reputation for attracting some of the best DJs in the city. Cocktails on offer are real crowd pleasers including the ubiquitous Porn Star Martini, Mojito and Cosmopolitan, with Dry Martinis, Painkillers and Blood and Sands for those who hanker after something with more ‘oomph’. Platea Calle Goya, 5-7, 28001, Madrid. T: + 34 91 577 0025 plateamadrid.com We’re not wishing it on ourselves, but if we had to be trapped anywhere overnight, this former cinema lavishly transformed into a gourmet playground would be our pick. From the outside you’d never guess the doors open up to reveal such a vacuous space. Get this: it’s 6,000 sq. ft. devoted to food, drink and entertainment – that’s two whole floors plus three cleverly utilised cinema stalls, all given over to the best possible tastes.
gin club
The first gin tonic bar in Madrid, Gin Club opened in 2006 and is still going strong. We checked it out in the daytime so we’ll make allowances for a lack of atmosphere and distinctly disinterested bartender. To be fair, with its low, low lighting and 1970s-tastic black walls, it’s definitely more of a night place but mood and decor aside, the gin and tonics went down pretty well. There are ten ‘Gs’ on the board, with a further 30 on the menu, they range from everybody’s favourites including Gordon’s at 47º vol, Tanqueray and Bombay Sapphire through to lesser known varieties like Pink 47, Magellan and Finsbury. If you’re feeling particularly frisky you can opt for a vodka and tonic. Whatever your choice most of the ‘Ts’ come from Schweppes (see over). Prices range from 6-10€ but go up a further 2€ after 9pm.
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A massive 60million euros has gone into its creation and it shows – it’s like a whopping great theatre space, cinema and chic department store rolled into one. Visitors can take their pick from a range of cuisines available from the independent restaurants including Mexican, Japanese, Italian, Peruvian and Spanish, which hug the walls of the space – seats are arranged in the middle. Did we mention the chefs have a total of six Michelin stars between them? Like we said, it’s quite the hotspot. The drinks offering is equally impressive thanks to Diego Cabrera and World Class Spain winner Luca Anastasio who head up the operation. There are three bars in total: one offering traditional Spanish cocktails, playfully served in jars for solo drinkers and jugs for sharing; another serving G&Ts from a Slush Puppy style machine – perfectly chilled to -3º, and the opulent, more serious affair El Paco, with innovative creations served in intimate surroundings on the top level. Wherever you choose to drink and/or dine, live entertainment, be it big bands, dancers or DJs, can be viewed on the very grand stage which takes pride of place, reminding you of the original incarnation of the building. A real showstopper.
IN-ternational
AND TO EAT? This is Spain – tapas and ‘pinchos’ (small bowls) rule. We advise rolling like the locals and getting stuck in. Local cocktail writer and translator François Monti knows a thing or two about where to eat and drink in the capital. Here are his recommendations: “If you want to go for tapas, a good spot is Mercado de San Miguel (Plaza de San Miguel, 28005. T: +34 91 542 4936, mercadodesanmiguel.es), next to Plaza Mayor, which works like la Boqueria in Barcelona – it’s well worth a visit. If it’s cold and you’re very hungry, Lhardy, (Carrera de San Jéronimo 8, 28014. T: +34 91 521 3385, lhardy.com) is the best address for Cocido Madrileño (soup, chickpeas and good pork). If you’re willing to try something different, I cannot recommend StreetXO highly enough. It’s in the Gourmet Experience of Corte Inglés de Callao (9th floor, Plaza del Callao, s/n, T: +34 91 531 9884, streetxo.com). Basically, it’s a counter with seats at a premium (no problem if you eat earlier than the locals), where you can get a few mind-blowing plates devised by chef David Muñoz (from 3-star DiverXO) at accessible prices. If you’d rather have quality modern Spanish tapas in a seated context, Celso y Manolo (Calle de la Libertad, 1, 28004. T: +34 91 531 8079, tascacelsoymanolo.wordpress.com) and la Carmencita, (Calle de la Libertad 16) are good addresses – be sure to book.”
HOW TO PIMP UP YOUR G&T – SPANISH STYLE Cookies 4Gin Just what it says on the box: cookies made to be enjoyed along with the Spaniards favourite tipple. Light, crisp and delicate. Do they go with gin? Yes, but we think they’d go with other spirits too. 4spirits.es Tonica A tonic to go with your gin? Are you kidding? Spain does tonics like the rest of the world does mineral water. Take your pick from fresh expressions such as Citrus, Cherry, Mint, Yuzu and Berries from The Original Tonic Company, or choices such as Pimento and Rose, Orange Blossom and Lavender, and Ginger and Cardamom from Schweppes. Botanicals Even the simplest G&T made at home takes on a more professional look, aroma and taste with carefully selected botanicals added to your glass. The kit from Toque Especial contains 10 dinky boxes including cassia, hibiscus flowers, rose petals and star anise and comes with serving tips and suggested gins to pair each botanical with. toque-especial.com Glassware Forget your bog standard straight-up-and-down Collins glass, in Spain it’s all about the curves of the copa. Designed to enhance the drinking experience by packing your G&T with enough ice to keep it cold to the very last drop, these glasses will work your biceps as well. Giona glassware have a corker of a copa, made from one piece of glass – so less chance of breakages from the stem; a thicker bottom to take the weight of their recommended eight ice cubes, plus a wide opening so you get a big hit of the aroma of the gin and its botanicals. gionapremiumglass.com CHIN, CHIN!
dry cosmopolitan
NEED TO KNOW • *Madrid do alright on the football front. According to FIFA, Real Madrid is the most successful football club of the 20th century. • Start planning your trip – the best time to visit is spring and autumn. In July and August temperatures can reach scorchio – that’s 40ºC in new money, and in winter, drop below freezing. Iberia Airlines, British Airways and Easyjet all offer regular flights to Madrid. • People in Madrid like to eat and go out late. Fact. After work drinks and tapas start at around 8pm; dinner from 10pm and clubbing around 3am. End your evening/start your morning with thick-as-you like hot chocolate and dunk in the requisite churros.
TOP 3 GINS FROM SPAIN BY FRANÇOIS MONTI 1. Gin Mare: This ‘Mediterranean gin’, as they call themselves, is, for once, as good as its package. With unusual botanicals such as thyme, rosemary, basil and olives, it probably reminds visitors of their holidays. 2. Gin Xoriguer: The original Mediterranean style, and one of the few to have a PGI, Gin de Mahon has been distilled in Menorca since the XVIIIth century. 3. Gin Giró: Retailing in Spain under £10, with only 37.5% ABV, this gin is actually much better than it has any right to be. Bone dry and dirt-cheap: it’s a great option on your next trip.
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SNAPSHOT: 1.
Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months 4.
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3. 1. Simbad and Gilles Peterson at the Havana Cultura Mix, The Soundclash! album launch party. London, November 2014. 2. Bacardi Triangle, an epic weekend party featuring live sets from Ellie Goulding and Calvin Harris. Puerto Rico, October 2014. 3. Iggy Pop, at the launch of his Flash Collection of clothing for Sailor Jerry. London, October 2014.
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6. 4. Tinie Tempah mans the decks at the Belvedere Vodka announcement of their partnership with the James Bond film, Spectre. London, December 2014. 5. Naomie Harris at the Remy Martin Private Club opening. London, November 2014. 6. Guests at the Grey Goose Kehinde Wiley Modern Kings of Culture Auction. Miami, 2014.
9. 7. Ian Burrell and Joy Spence at the Rum Experience World’s Largest Rum Tasting. London, October 2014. 8. Alex Kratena and Simone Caporale winners of the World’s 50 Best Bars 2014. London, October 2014. 9. Beefeater MIXLDN Global Finalists. London, January 2014.