ISSUE 16
SUMMER 2015
The Light Issue
Rays in the bar Illuminated thinking For inspired drinking
Putting on the Spritz
World Class cocktails in Sydney
+ Bright sparks & lightbulb moments
ISSN 2052 0603
IN-tro
DID YOU K NOW
THAT 2015 IS THE INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF
LIGHT? Nope, neither did we until we started working on this issue. But isn't it apt that at the same time that scientists are looking at advances in fibre optics, energy technology and all kinds of astronomy shenanigans, the world of drinks is lightening up as well? Think about it. Bars are creeping away from the dark, sombre set-ups and going for lighter, brighter environments, low and non-alcoholic drinks are making more of an impact on menus and the general mood in drinking establishments is becoming lighter as a result – in London, we even have Redemption, an alcohol-free bar. Coincidence? We think not. In this issue we chat to Charlie Ainsbury and Luke Ashton about 'This Must Be The Place', their refreshingly light-filled bar in Sydney (p. 10), ask five movers and shakers to share a lightbulb moment in their careers with us (p. 12), and talk to the Portman Group about the drinks industry pledge to remove one billion units of alcohol in the UK by the end of the year (p. 24). Then we have François Monti who looks at the surge in popularity of vermouth around the globe (p. 26), while Ben Norum zones in on bars keeping things on the light side in London (p. 18). Marian Beke explains how getting creative with lighter abv drinks is the way for bartenders to go (p. 40) and pilates expert Marcia Polas shares tips on how to combat the heaviness associated with standing on your feet all day and night (p. 48). Have you seen the light yet? Maybe it's time to make the switch.
Happy (lighter) imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
thecocktaillovers.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk
Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
42. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Multi-tasking on the taste front and pimping our drinks, just two of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months
Telling Tales What makes Tales of the Cocktail the must-visit event on the drinks calendar? We ask the people who go there
10. IN-the hotseat Charlie Ainsbury and Luke Ashton Putting on the Spritz at 'This Must Be The Place' in sunny Sydney
12. IN-spire Seeing the light Five inspiring minds on one defining moment in their careers
18. IN-spire Sipping the light fantastic Ben Norum checks out the London bars that have come out of the dark and celebrate the brighter side of drinking instead
46. IN-focus Simple or elaborate? Drinks menus are getting more fanciful – good or bad thing? Discuss
49. IN-focus Drink, Eat, Live Movement consultant Marcia Polas gives her top tips to Claire Warner and Georgia Van Tiel on how to feel lighter on your feet, behind and in front of the bar
50. IN-dependent spirits Cyprus calling! Yes, really. Adjust your DrinksNav to Nicosia and discover the delights of Lost + Found Drinkery
22. IN-the spotlight
10. IN-dustry greats
Future proofing Whether you like it or not, the volume of alcohol in your glass is getting lighter. We speak to the Portman Group about the Unit Reduction Pledge
Time for T He may have recently retired from his job as Master Distiller at Tanqueray but Tom Nichol shows no signs of slowing down
26. IN-the spotlight
55. IN-formed
Nothing but vermouth François Monti charts the rise in popularity of the aperitif once favoured by grandmas, now the hipsters' sip
Mains & Martinis London, Athens, Barcelona – three cities, three restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
28. IN-the spotlight
56. IN-formed
Shine a light gaz regan looks at the fundamental ingredients in what makes a good bartender tick
Word Up News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front
32. IN-dulge Gadgets & gizmos 10 pieces of kit designed to take the hard work out of preparing and serving your drinks
34. IN-style
60. IN-sider's guide Dial M for Manchester Checking out the latest places to enjoy a quality cocktail with the queen of the Manchester bar scene, Susie Wong
62. IN-ternational
Summer in the city Take advantage of the last of those summer rays and enjoy your cocktails al fresco
Cocktails in Catalunya Yes, it does sherry, vermouth and Tinto de Verano but Barcelona is renowned for its cocktail bars as well. We highlight a few of the best
40. IN-focus
66. IN-vite only
How low can you go? Marian Beke extols the virtues of getting creative with low- and nonalcoholic cocktails
Snap shot The hottest drinks events, competitions and party pics from the last three months
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editors: Sally Briggs, Rachael Bull Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com Pez and Pencil pezandpencil.com Photography: Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com Contributors: Jad Ballout Rebecca Milford Ben Norum Marcia Polas gaz regan Lauryn Tomlinson Georgia Van Tiel Claire Smith-Warner Susie Wong
For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover illustration: Rays in the bar ©Pez and Pencil/ The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 16 Summer 2015 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
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REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Sinking into a pineapple, winning at brunch and making like it's 1920s America – summer just got serious for cocktail lovers
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Surrealism has inspired two great drinks menus of late: one at Artesian in London, the other at Baba Au Rum in Athens. Which is why we’re going for The EY Exhibition: The World Goes Pop at Tate Modern as our cultural event this season – it’s only a matter of time before cocktails go pop as well. Until then we suggest getting acquainted with Lemonaid+, the sparkling ‘pop’ drink made with organically grown, Fairtrade ingredients. It's time to get fizzical! lemon-aide.de/en The EY Exhibition: The World Goes Pop at Tate Modern from 17 Sep 2015 to 24 Jan 2016 tate.org.uk
6 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-the know
02
…Speaking of art and drinks, check out the three limited
3
edition Campari labels featuring sketches by Futurist artist Fortunato Depero. Available from waitrose.com
FIVE... Packing the perfect picnic Take one Tipplesworth Apple & Elderflower cocktail kit, add a blanket and you’ve aced a sublime picnic. Indoors or out. tipplesworth.com
PIMPING OUR DRINKS
Flying coach? Don’t let that cramp your drinking style. Elevate those complimentary minis into things of beauty with the Gin & Tonic, Old Fashioned and Moscow Mule cocktail kits from W+P Design. wandpdesign.com
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…Or you could always upgrade. In the Virgin Atlantic Heathrow Clubhouse you can have a signature cocktail from the menu at Edition hotels mixed at your side, courtesy of the bespoke Martini trolley. #swanky. virginatlantic.com
Listening to the sipster hipsters
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Coconuts are soooo last year. According to those in the
know, birch water is the next big thing. Reputed to be good
06
Multi-tasking on the taste front Ice-cream or gin? Why torture yourself – have both. Go for an aperitif and dessert in one delicious hit with Gin & Tonic Ice Cream from Jude’s. Available from ocado.com
for everything from rehydration to liver disease, it’s set to become the drink on everyone’s lips. sibberi.com
08
BEING AIR HEADS
You don’t need to aerate your spirits but adding a little oxygen to your glass sure can help the mellowing process. Besides, why should wine have all the pomp? www.vinturi.com
WINNING AT BRUNCH
09
Another food/cocktail lovechild: burger with Bloody Mary jelly, vodka ketchup and chips sprinkled with celery – all hail the Bloody Mary burger. On the menu at K West Hotel & Spa. k-west.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
11
N 10 o
Pairing cognac with macarons
FEELING THE KNEAD
Lushness alert: make the nuances in your Martell cognac sing by pairing with Pierre Hermé macarons. Top combos? Infiniment Vanille and Martell Chanteloup, and Caramel with Martell Creation Grand Extra. martell.com; pierreherme.com
The only thing nicer than the smell of freshly baked bread is freshly baked bread with beer added to the mix. Warning: one slice may not be enough… firebox.com
13.
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Sinking into a pineapple
Pineapples are all about hospitality, right? Give your guests the best seat in the house with this kitsch but comfy silk cushion. silkenfavours.com
14
Nailing our ratios The Cocktail Key jiggers are the perfect guide to getting the balance of your cocktails just so. Follow their ratios for sweet, sour, strong, weak and spice to get great drinks every time. panchdrinks.com 8 - The Cocktail Lovers
HAILING THE COCKTAILCAR Weddings, garden parties, summer fetes… every outdoor event needs The Cocktail Car. Provide your own booze and they’ll bring everything else or, better still, go for the complete package. thecocktailcar.com
15
Making like it's 1920s America
Okay, drinking your hooch from these teacups would have given the game away during Prohibition but you get the idea… yvonneellen.com
SEVEN TEEN
Riding high
Load your cocktail accoutrements in the saddle pack, strap a bottle into the holder and hey presto! You’ve got yourself a portable bar. (Remember folks, do not drink and ride…) notonthehighstreet.com
16.
BEING COCKTAIL PIED PIPERS You’re sure to make friends with this sign. illuminatedcanvas.co.uk
IN-the know
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19
PERKING UP OUR PINKIES
Saying it with flowers
fingers and toes… For a mani/pedi with attitude just add a slick of Cocktail Bling (their name, not ours), one of the hot shades from essie.com
20 Kicking hangovers into shape Ensure your last cocktail of the night makes you feel better the next morning. With its hangoverbusting blend of vitamin B, magnesium, potassium and milk thistle, Ohayo is designed to ease the pain. ohayotomorrow.com
Nothing says summer in a glass quite like a floral garnish. Pretty up your drinks with edible violas, cornflowers, daisies, pansies and rose petals from shopterrain.com
JAMMING REAL GOOD
21
Cocktails on toast? We’re in! Try the fruit-packed, utterly delicious Bramble, Bellini, Negroni and Mojito jams from Manfood, you may never have other preserves ever again. harveynichols.com
23
Tuning into the spirit of London
Music-loving gin fans take note: Beefeater London Sounds brings the rich musical heritage of its birthplace to life through a limited edition bottle and a blockbuster list of tunes. beefeatergin.com/londonsounds
24
25 Learning from the pros
TWENTY TWO
Bringing elegance to the bar
Taking bubbles to the next level
Out: grubby fingers in the olive bowl. In: sexy cocktail picks and forks. Yes, you can use cheapo wooden versions but where’s the glamour in that? eu.l-objet.com
Say hello to the next generation Sodastream. Carbonate juices, spirits and/ or cocktails in a revolutionary machine created for both bartenders and consumers alike. mix-sodastream.com
Take a leaf out of Micah Melton’s book of awesomeness and create ice cubes/blocks/spheres that evolve in the glass and change the taste of your drinks as per the Chivas Masters. See thecocktaillovers.com for details. The Cocktail Lovers - 9
IN-terview
IN THE HOTSEAT
CHARLIE AINSBURY AND LUKE ASHTON
left: luke ashton; right: charlie ainsbury
LIGHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE LOOK AND FEEL OF 'THIS MUST BE THE PLACE', CHARLIE AINSBURY AND LUKE ASHTON’S BAR IN SYDNEY. IT’S ALSO THE KEY TO THE STYLE AND ALCOHOL CONTENT OF THEIR DRINKS. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THIS WORLD CLASS ACT TO FIND OUT MORE.
Luke, describe Charlie:
When and where did you meet?
Charlie: After Luke came back from the World Class Global Finals in 2013 he approached me. We had been friends for a while and I think we were both on the same track at the same time in our careers. We both knew that we didn’t want to work for someone else and our own venue was on the cards. Perfect timing.
Charlie: There was most likely a drunken handshake over shots at the Bayswater Brasserie, but formally at a restaurant bar called Duke Bistro in Sydney 2010. You’ve both represented Australia in the World Class Global Finals, how much of an impact has the competition had on your careers? Charlie: A huge impact. I’ve been working behind the bar for nearly 12 years now and that time, of late, has been in management. My head was stuck in spreadsheets, rosters and other management duties, meaning I had no time for creativity. I left that role during the National leg of the competition and it helped me get back in touch with being a bartender. Getting that far in World Class certainly reminds me of the potential I have in this business.
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Passionate, annoyingly insightful and dedicated. Charlie, describe Luke: Passionate, annoyingly meticulous and dedicated. When did you decide you wanted to work together and why?
Tell us a bit about the concept of the bar and how the idea first came about. Charlie: We didn't set out to open a Spritz Bar, but it was the space that dictated that concept as well as the trends and general climate of the Sydney bar scene. We wanted to do something that was completely left-field, disruptive and, most of all, high risk in terms of concept… So instead of focusing on something like whisky and classic cocktails in a dark, speakeasy-like, low-lit environment, we set out
IN-terview
to do a Spritz bar focusing on low-alcohol cocktails in a bright and airy environment with a low price point. What, if anything, are you doing differently from other bars in Sydney? Charlie: The method of production is pretty different. We’ve taken a page from Dave Arnold’s book Liquid Intelligence (literally) and applied his carbonation system. We wanted a way to get cocktails out quickly so batching was the way to go. All the prep is done back of house and before we open the bar. When it comes to service we simply carbonate the Spritzes, add the volatile ingredients like fresh juice if need be, garnish, and off they go. Light plays an important role in the look and feel of the bar as well as the drinks. Do you feel we’ll be seeing more of this coming through in other venues? Charlie: I’d like to think that we’re that influential but I doubt it. If anything I hope people try to do something different when it comes to forming a concept for their own bar and really pay attention to their guests and what they are looking for. I’m not saying we’ve nailed that aspect but we’re certainly trying. How long did it take from concept to opening the door and have you had to tweak any of your original ideas along the way? Luke: We came up with the concept when we signed the lease so there really wasn’t much to tweak. We were taught that you can’t apply a concept to any venue, it has to work with the surroundings. Charie: Yep, it was merely refining the concept. In a sense we’re still refining it; we’re always trying to perfect it. What attracted you to the site? Charlie: We were looking for nearly a year before we found this one. It’s not the most attractive spot; we’re in an area that is in need of some rejuvenation. Rent soared around three to four years ago and it’s driven a lot of tenants out of the area. Our landlord was the first to lower his price after two years of vacancy. It used to be a bar as well so it still had a liquor licence, fridges and various other bits that made it attractive to take up. What’s the most exciting thing about being an owner/ operator? Luke: Complete creative freedom. And the hardest? Charlie: Luke with complete creative freedom. Tell us about the drinks on the menu, the rationale behind them and any key themes running through your list. Luke: Our drinks are focused on being light, refreshing, produce-focused and simply delicious. Charlie: We wanted every drink on the list to be tasty in the way that you go back for the second sip almost immediately. Luke: The spirits and liqueurs are used almost as a seasoning to the cocktail as opposed to being the main ingredient. This lets the produce stand out and subsequently allows
us to lower our price. We’ve found the drinks to be more approachable and accessible to guests and they don’t feel bad or concerned about ordering another. Charlie: We wanted to remember that most guests don’t drink like bartenders, so as delicious as that Manhattan/ Negroni/Old Fashioned variation might be and appropriate for say, a pre-dinner drink, it usually hits people too hard and, most likely, they’ll revert to beer or wine after that. What drink would you recommend for a) the cocktail newbie? b) someone who wants to challenge their tastebuds? a) Any of the ones on our list. They’re approachable, bright and light. b) Coltrane: Mandarin, lemon, Prosecco, Talisker, Amontillado Sherry and mace. This drink fits the menu but it’s an odd marriage of ingredients. It has those autumnal cocktail elements, seasonal fruit and effervescence. What are you proudest of about the bar? Luke: The diversity of guests we have and how receptive and accepting they have been of this concept. Charlie: I agree. We’ve had a great response from our community and the neighbours. A lot of them have come up to us and expressed how happy they are to have us in the area. As we mentioned before, we’re in the middle of a block that used to be the place to go. Nowadays it’s quiet and mostly vacant. Hopefully we’re bringing some life back to the area. What have you found out about yourself since being owner/operators? Luke: I get grumpy when I’m tired. Charlie: You didn’t know that before? Luke: I’ve never been this tired. What are your plans for TMBTP? Charlie: At the moment we’re trying to get it to a level we’re happy with and hopefully it’ll run without either of us in there. We’re learning that you can’t run the business when you’re actually right in it. We need to take a step back and see it as an owner as opposed to a bartender. Luke: We have an upstairs as well that we need to work on. Charlie: True, at the moment it’s like that miscellaneous drawer at home. Needs a clean out. This bar is just the beginning though, we’re looking into expansion into other fields but we’ll save that story for another time. Any tips for anyone thinking about opening their own bar? Charlie: Allow the space and neighbourhood to dictate your concept. Really see if there’s a need for you to open a bar there. And when you do, try to do something different. Don’t let the trends sway your decision. Luke: Get some sleep, take a holiday and re-assess your decision. Charlie: Yeah, come to think of it… don’t do it. This Must be The Place, 239 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010, Australia. tmbtp.com.au
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
FIVE GREAT MINDS REVEAL ONE LIGHTBULB MOMENT IN THEIR CAREERS
IN-spire
The menu: Alex Kratena, Head Bartender, Artesian Bar, London The lightbulb moment for our menu came to us last September. Every autumn we narrow our ideas for the upcoming drinks list down to three to five of the most interesting topics and themes, then we do further research on them. When we came up with the idea of surrealism we flew to the Dalí museum in Spain. We also found out Dalí made a cookbook and used to throw elaborate dinner parties. We snapped up the famous cookbook in an auction and dived into it – the guys at Roux even cooked some of the dishes for us. We learnt that surrealists used to make cocktails, but to be honest, they were all really basic. We realised that surrealism tapped into every area and discipline including architecture, art and cuisine, but the cocktails were never really explored. That was our lightbulb moment, it just clicked and we said, “Why don't we write the missing chapter of surrealism?” Experience the #surrealism2015 menu at artesian-bar.co.uk
top: alex kratena; above: 'heaven is for sinners' on the menu at artesian
Forget heavy drinks in darkened rooms. London’s bars are seeing the light, says Ben Norum Think of a typical London bar and your mind probably burrows down to a low-lit, subterranean speakeasy where potent cocktails are served from menus that you can only read with the help of your phone’s torch or a stray candle. Either that or a plush hotel bar where the walls are adorned with decadent paper and oversized artworks – but never, ever, a window. Natural light – you would be forgiven for thinking – is not fit for consumption with alcohol. Or perhaps it’s just that all bartenders are vampires.
Illustration: melanie milne @melmadedesign.com ©melmadedesign/thecocktaillovers
IN-spire
IN-spire
summer at grain store
light floods through at bar termini
Equally, it’s often been the case that the more seriously a bar is thought of, the stronger you can expect the drinks to be. Highballs, fruity and fizz-topped numbers clearly don’t carry the same kudos as mixerless small glasses brimming with blended spirits and aged high-abv liqueurs. But things are changing and London’s bar scene is starting to see the light.
rosato negroni at bar termini
At Tony Conigliaro’s recent venture – Bar Termini in Soho – light floods in through open blinds, giving an appropriately sun-kissed setting for the Mediterranean-style Spritzes, Bellinis and Negronis. They’re powerful drinks and there’s a fair bit of gin involved, but there’s also prosecco, homemade cordials and a whole lot of vermouth.
“The modern drinker seeks flavours to excite them, things which are complex and not necessarily high in alcohol,” says Alex Kratena, head bartender at Artesian. At his bar – repeatedly voted the best in the world – elaborate cocktails contain all manner of syrups and cordials alongside spirits, with plenty of choice in drinks that contain no alcohol whatsoever.
As well as upping the refreshment factor, this works to considerably lower the average alcohol content of the drinks, which is something that London’s new wave of cocktail connoisseurs are all for – why get trollied after two drinks when you can enjoy two more?
It’s a similar story at Ryan Chetiyawardana’s award-winning bar Dandelyan, at the Mondrian London hotel. Its glass frontage might seem like a no-brainer given its stunning river views across to St Paul’s, but its ‘light and bright’ look – accentuated by its colourful design – is still a big statement.
“There's been a definite shift towards lighter and even non-alcoholic cocktails that still have a complexity of taste but can be enjoyed at more times of the day” Ry an C h e ti y aw ard an a
Chetiyawardana’s drinks channel the lightness of the space: green tea, lime and elderflower cordials, homemade herbaceous syrups, and lower-alcohol drinks such as sherry and vermouth feature prominently. He has also launched a list of non-alcoholic cocktails crafted with just as much care as their boozy counterparts. “There's been a definite shift towards lighter and even nonalcoholic cocktails that still have a complexity of taste but can be enjoyed at more times of the day,” he says. “Spritzes and highballs have led the way, and more bartenders – us included – have looked to new ingredients and approaches to pack flavour into lighter options.”
The Cocktail Lovers - 19
IN-spire
'death of the hipster', one of the alcohol-free options at artesian
Other drinking dens letting in the daylight include Craft London in Greenwich, where the bar area is entirely glassclad and tea syrup and raspberry vinegar feature in the drinks; King’s Cross suntrap Grain Store (p. 37), where herbs are key ingredients; and the second branch of Lucky Pig, which opened recently in Fulham – it’s a marked contrast to the original in Fitzrovia, which wholly embraces the darkened speakeasy vibe. Lighter drinks – in terms of both style and alcohol content – are also appearing at Chiltern Firehouse, where vermouth takes centre stage; at Three Eight Four in Brixton, where watercress, English breakfast tea and watermelon juice feature; and at Peg + Patriot, where homemade sodas lengthen drinks without diluting flavour. There’s a final way in which bars are lightening up too – they’re taking themselves less seriously. Artesian’s latest menu sees drinks served in LEGO, on furry coasters and suspended from a net, and given names like 'Your Room, Or Mine?' and 'Death Of The Hipster'. One of their signatures is even a Piña Colada – it’s playful, gimmicky
20 - The Cocktail Lovers
lightening the mood at cocktail trading co.
and downright silly, but the quality of the cocktails is as serious as ever. Soho’s Cocktail Trading Co tries to outdo Artesian in the bonkers stakes, employing tins, wet wipes and car fresheners to serve its creations. It even used baconflavoured crispy noodles as a garnish on one cocktail, but the talents responsible for this are no joke. What’s behind all this lightening in mood? Some of it will be to do with ever-evolving tastes and trends, but perhaps it’s also down to an increasingly savvy, clued-up and experimental audience of cocktail consumers in the capital. We don’t drink to get drunk or just stick to our regulars. We want to try as many different things as we can, in as many different forms as we can, and it helps if they’re a bit lighter. Not to mention that there are far more flavours to be crafted from cordials, infusions and syrups than from the comparatively small range of spirits around. And after all that time in underground drinking dens, perhaps the city’s eyes are starting to strain. Here’s to the light years ahead.
Promotion
MASTER PLAN The Chivas Masters: challenging the minds, touching the hearts and shaping the futures of the world’s very best bartenders.
T
he Chivas Masters may only be in its second year but it’s already assuming a unique place amongst the aspiring elite of the global bartending fraternity. Hardly surprising, it has an outstanding programme for the finalists, an extraordinary prize and the title of Chivas Master at stake. Following the global finalists through their challenges in New York and on to the subsequent announcement of the winner in New Orleans, we gained a unique insight into The Chivas Masters. In creating The Chivas Masters, Chivas Global Brand Ambassador, Maximilian Warner, was acutely aware that Chivas occupied a very special place in spirits and cocktail history. He was equally aware that to create a programme worthy of this place he needed a plan. “We spoke to 30 influential bartenders in three key cities. New York, the home of the classic cocktail, London, the worldwide centre of drinks innovation and Shanghai, an enigmatic emerging focus for new bar culture. From those conversations we saw that there were three distinct ways the bartenders related to Chivas; it was a name they respected and had an important heritage, they felt it was at home on the shelves of the great international bars, and it also had a role to play in recognising their craft. This is what went on to form the basis of The Chivas Masters. This gave us the beginnings of our plan.” It’s a plan that's clearly working. Having already claimed their places in the global final through success in rigorous regional heats, the 12 finalists spent three days in New York, the original launch city of Chivas in 1909, learning as well as competing. The areas of focus remained consistent in the regional heats and both global finals so far: The Classic Age (1880-1920), The Post-War Boom (1945-1960), The Disco Years (19751990) and The Age of Revivalism (1990 to the present). However, the interpretation of the challenges was completely re-imagined for this final; the result being that the bartenders were both instructed and challenged in a wide-ranging variety of areas, from cocktail and food-pairing under the watchful eyes of members of the restaurant and bar team at luxury hotel The NoMad, to the influence of ice as an ingredient, with Micah Melton,
24 - The Cocktail Lovers
Beverage Director, The Aviary, Chicago, and as part of a perfect serve courtesy of last year’s winner, Masa Urushido, Bar Manager, Saxon + Parole, New York. There was even the opportunity to work with leading lifestyle photographer, Doron Gild, to style and capture one of their cocktail creations. Not your average cocktail competition final by any stretch of the imagination. The resulting drinks and presentations from the bartenders certainly highlighted the rich complexity of Chivas itself. Perhaps more significantly, we were also shown its equally rich versatility in the creation of original cocktails. In turn the results also demonstrated the ingenuity of the bartenders. But perhaps most appealing was the grace, good humour and sheer professionalism of the contestants. Live With Chivalry runs the Chivas line. Clearly they embody this aspiration. While New York was home to the challenges, the following move to the iconic cocktail city, New Orleans, provided the recognition. Able to relax and enjoy the world’s most important drinks gathering, Tales of the Cocktail, the bartenders could meet their peers and their heroes. Given its rich cocktail heritage, it was fitting that New Orleans was also where we learned the winner of The Chivas Masters 2015. Through the creativity of his cocktails, the perfectly pitched presentations and an appealingly understated confidence, Josh Reynolds (pictured above left), from Hawksmoor Spitalfields in the UK, took the title of the new Chivas Master. He can also look forward to a year of travel which will take him to a continent of his choice to work with, and learn from, the very best talent in the drinks world. The effect on all of the bartenders though should not be underestimated. Talking with them throughout the week, it’s clear that they are taking home, to all points of the global compass, an even deeper appreciation of their craft and the place Chivas occupies within it. The way they think and feel about both will never be the same. As for their future careers, we’ll be watching them with interest. We love it when a plan comes together. For more on The Chivas Masters Global Final 2015 see thecocktaillovers.com
IN-the spotlight
Embarrassingly enough, it was You Light Up My Life, the song made famous by Debby Boone in the 1970s, and it’s still buzzing around in there right now. It did nothing to help me figure out a suitable topic for this article, though it did make me a tad annoyed with the good folk who chose “light” as the topic for this issue, and when I see them next I’m determined to hum it incessantly until I nigh-on drive them crazy. “It can't be wrong, when it feels so right...” That’ll teach ‘em. From there, my mind turned back to cocktails, and the cocktails led me to bartenders. I began to think about the bartenders that are the leading lights of the industry these days, and I came up with quite a list: Alex Kratena, Monica Berg, Dale DeGroff, Julie Reiner, Salvatore Calabrese, Andrea Montague, Peter Dorelli, Hidetsugu Ueno, Franky Marshall, Philip Duff, Tony Conigliaro, Marian Beke, Esther Medina Cuesta, Ago Perrone, Simone Caporale, Ryan Chetiyawardana, Audrey Saunders and Stan Vadrna all leapt to mind (and I hope that the luminaries not mentioned here will forgive my sin of omission. I was thinking about you the whole time. Honest.) But these guys get lots of ink on a very regular basis, and to be honest I probably don’t have much to add to what has already been written about them, apart from saying that, in my opinion, these people got to where they are today through hard work and passion. There’s nary a prima donna among them. Light, light, light. Where the heck would I go with this subject? I don’t know any “how many bartenders does it take to change a light bulb” jokes, so that didn’t work, though the thought of crummy jokes did conjure up the old line about the man who wondered where the sun went to at night. And in the morning it dawned on him… That’s sort of light-related, isn’t it? You may slap me when you see me next. And that sad little groaner of a joke actually led to me realising how to attack this column. Let’s just say that it dawned on me. Just as I’ve seen the same thing dawn on many a bartender when they suddenly realise what their job is all about. It’s an epiphany of sorts. A bolt of sterling silver lightening that strikes bartenders at various times in their careers, and it always results in one huge smile of contentment.
to be centre-stage, and what better stage could they ask for when they have an ever-changing audience before them, and each guest is vying for their attention? All the bar’s a stage, it’s true, and we still haven’t hit on the real purpose of tending bar. Some bartenders get into the business because it’s a fairly short apprenticeship (says he who has been at this game for over 40 years and is still learning), and making cash-in-hand night after night after night, while having a whale of a time in some hip cocktail joint, sounds far better than training to become, say, a bank teller. And that can be true, though it’s a good idea for those bartenders to think long and hard about their future, and stick a little of that cash to one side for a rainy day, ‘cos there’s a better reason than this.
Good bartenders don’t just make drinks, you see. they make people smile. Eventually, all bartenders worth their salt start to understand what they are really doing behind the bar. They grok the meaning of the job. They see the light. Good bartenders don’t just make drinks, you see. They make people smile. Putting smiles on other folks’ faces is, in my opinion, the primary focus of the bartender’s job. Make ‘em lousy drinks, but make ‘em smile while you’re doing it, and your guests will come back to see you over and over and over again. When bartenders realise this, they have seen the light. It’s a worthy cause. Really worthy.
Many bartenders take up their craft because they are creative sorts looking for an outlet, and it’s true that bartending offers a fabulous opportunity for the artists among us to strut our stuff. But that’s not what the job is about. Others get gigs behind the stick because they like
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IN-dulge THE APP: Does exactly what it says on the tin. Cocktails Made Easy, £2.99, Fizz Software Ltd (from the people behind Difford's Guide).
THE SMART SCALE: Connect to the accompanying app and you’re ready for an interactive drinksmaking experience. The Perfect Drink, £59.99, Brookstone. Available from lakeland.co.uk
THE KITCHEN COUNTER BAR: App controlled booze-bot designed to dispense mixed drinks in under five seconds. Somabar, available to pre-order, $429, Somabar. somabarkickstarter.com
THE PERFECT POUR: Aerate as you pour for the perfect glass of wine every time. Classic soft aerating pourer, £10, L’Atelier Du Vin. Available from selfridges.com
THE NO-FUSS CORKSCREW: Less muscle power, more finesse – an electric wine bottle opener does the job like a boss. Electric Wine Opener, $29.95, Waring. waringpro.com
THE BLENDER: For creating all your favourite ice-based cocktails and fruit slushies in a jiffy. BarBoss Advance, £545, Vitamix. ukjuicers.com
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IN-style
S u m me r in the city On the roof, in the park, chilling by the canal, when the sun comes out to play in London there is no shortage of hot spots to soak up the rays whilst enjoying a quality tipple. Check these five out for starters‌ Photography: Johnnie Pakington
IN-style
aqua 5th floor, 240 Regent Street, London W1B 3BR. aqua-london.com Essential summer sip: Our Gin Tonica selection with flavour-infused candy floss. “The terraces at aqua London are the essence of summer for many Londoners; soaking up the atmosphere (and the sunshine), enjoying great views and of course, our cocktails.” – Luca Missaglia Pictured: The aqua London bar team
Gin Bar at The Serpentine Bar & Kitchen Hyde Park, London W2 2UH. benugo.com Essential summer sip: Gin & Tonic “You can’t beat this location – you’d never guess you were in the middle of London when you’re sitting in a deckchair enjoying a Gin & Tonic by the lake.” Main picture: Andrea Bergamonti
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IN-style
Grain Store 1-3 Stable Street, London N1C 4AB. grainstore.com Essential summer sip: Strawberry & Green Grass Bellini “Summer at Grain Store means children playing in the fountains and a packed terrace. We just throw on a straw hat and make sure we have an endless supply of ice.� Main picture: Veronica Franzoni and Barbara Gianazza
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Queen of Hoxton 1-5 Curtain Road, London EC2A 3JX. queenofhoxton.com Essential summer sip: Frozen Daiquiri with either mango and paprika, mint or cherry house-made ice cubes “Summer on Queen of Hoxton rooftop to me means being on holiday at home, a Cuban cigar in one hand and a Caipirissima in the other, losing track of time as the sun sets slowly behind the skyscrapers. There’s no place like it!" – John O'Malley Pictured: Flo Sherifi and Rosie Michell (pouring), Becky Wright, Ellery Romanko, John Meagher and John O'Malley (drinking)
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IN-style
Skylounge 7 Pepys Street, London EC3N 4AF. doubletree3.hilton.com Essential summer sip: Surfside Punch – Snow Queen vodka with fruits, mixed with grapefruit juice, topped with Lanson White Label Champagne “Summer on the rooftop terrace creates the feeling of being at the beach even while you are working. The Nantucket Beach Club pop-up gives us the opportunity to make the most of British summer.” Main picture: Stelios Stylianou, Egle Stankeviciute, Abel Crespo, Joseph Bailey
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How low can you go? Very, in the case of Nightjar in London. Here Marian Beke talks about the high demand for low-alcohol drinks and how he and his team keep the offering on their menu fresh and interesting
IN-focus
Based on feedback from our floor staff we introduced a page dedicated to low-alcohol drinks on our menu two years ago. I see this interest as a lifestyle change. Out of the larger groups we have coming into the bar, 10-25% of the group ask for low-alcohol cocktails. Some just want a lighter alternative to heavier drinks. But for others it might be because they are driving, they could be on medication, one of the women might be pregnant, or maybe they’ve had a heavy night the night before or have a meeting in the morning, the reasons are endless. Usually these customers would have to settle for a Coca Cola or something really boring or sugary but now they can have a tasty and balanced drink. Our customers are very appreciative of the fact that we have six to eight lighter styled drinks on our menu – they still want to have a drinking experience even if they go for a low- or non-alcoholic option. We don’t list all of our non-alcoholic drinks on the menu because they can be very seasonally driven. If a customer asks for a non-alcoholic drink we prefer to ask them what they like, what they don’t like, if they’re allergic to anything – that kind of thing, then tailor a drink around their answers. Nightjar is a classic bar so we start our new menu by researching classic drinks with a low alcohol content. This takes in Spritzers and Cobblers of course. We also look to Japan and the Mizuwari-style highballs which are lengthened with fizz or water. These are all great drinks to begin with but can be adjusted very simply. Year by year we’ve played around a bit more, using chocolate wine instead of vermouth, introducing a new raspberry cider or beer from a local brewery – that keeps things fresh and exciting. I compare the demand for lighter drinking to healthy eating. People are generally more aware of the options and want to have fun but make healthier choices. In my opinion, the demand for lighter drinks is definitely here to stay. With lighter drinks, seasonality is very important. We use a lot of flavoured wines, beers and ciders in our drinks; herbs and teas are also fantastic. Low-alcohol drinks are not just about adding tonic and cola – cucumber soda, smoked lemonade, mastiha soda can all be used to bring complexity to the glass – add some fresh herbs and that's all you need. If you come to me and ask for a lighter tasting drink that’s heavy on alcohol I wouldn’t find that correct. I would maybe go for something like Campari and Amaro – 15ml, 20ml tops – less than half measures that are big on flavour, and balance it with some citrus and sweet as there is already some bitter agent there, I wouldn’t add any botanicals but more like carbonated flavour. Some kind of fizz is very good for this.
Clockwise from top left: xxxx cocktail; marian beke; nightjar interior
I like SodaStreams and Twist ’N’ Sparkles for creating interesting non-and low-alcohol drinks. You can get really creative using things like aloe vera, all kinds of fruit – we also make a sparkling coconut water using roasted coconut flecks, it’s delicious. At home my advice is to keep it simple – like food, go for two, three, maximum four ingredients. Look at the market, your garden – you don’t need to study some crazy book for inspiration, take a nice spirit and shake it with something sweet and sour, and that’s it. The main thing is to use fresh, good quality ingredients. Try gin, add some beautiful herbs, fresh honey, and top up with soda. Elderflower is still one of the key flavours. Try St-Germain, add seasonal herbs, some lemon and honey, a splash of soda and you’ve got yourself a great drink. The idea of Michelin-starred vegetarian restaurants was a real eye-opener to me. So I wouldn’t be surprised if we see bars dedicated to low alcohol or no alcohol opening very soon. The Nightjar, 129 City Road, London EC1V 1JB. barnightjar.com
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3.
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Telling Tales H a i l e d a s th e most s ig n i f ica nt c o c k ta i l g e t t o g e t h e r o n t h e planet, for five days in July Tales of th e Co ck ta i l i n N e w Or l e a ns hosts more workshops, seminars, tastings, parties and people than you can shake a cocktail stick at. We asked a few cocktail movers and shakers what makes it so important to the drinks industry.
The Tales of the Cocktail Operations & Marketing Manager
The Tales of the Cocktail founder
Michelle Dunnick
Tales of the Cocktail is the industry’s family reunion. Everyone gets to come together for five days of sharing ideas, drinks, meals and a whole lot of laughs. I think that camaraderie helps to create a stronger and smarter industry. Having Danny Meyer come speak had to be the highlight of this year’s Tales. It was the first time we ever had a keynote speaker, so being able to bring in one of the biggest names in hospitality for a sold out show was big for us. We’re already starting to think about who we can bring to the stage next year. Ann Tuennerman The Tales of the Cocktail educator
Tales of the Cocktail is important to industry professionals as it brings original education to bartenders from bartenders, whether through seminars or the Cocktail Apprenticeship. It’s the perfect networking event, the ideal focus group for new products and it celebrates individual accomplishments and those who continue to further our industry. It’s a family reunion in a city that prides itself on hospitality, New Orleans.
The World’s Best Bar winner Tales is in a very special place at a very special time of year. For the most part, it attracts almost every industry figure and it all takes place in a few streets. You can’t go for a walk or into a bar without bumping into at least 20 people you know – it’s the ultimate get together for the drinks industry. My personal highlight was winning World’s Best Bar at the Spirited Awards. I’ve thought of nothing else for the past five years, so it was the realisation of a dream. Sean Muldoon, co-owner The Dead Rabbit Grocery & Grog
This year saw the most seminars, the highest-ever level of ticket sales and the fullest rooms of any Tales of the Cocktail, ever. It’s still the best networking event in the world of mixology but its heart and purpose is its seminars. It was heartening to see, despite the previous night’s lavish parties, rooms packed at 10am with people anxious to learn about cocktail citrates, artisanal distilling and prehistoric cocktails tools. We can’t wait for 2016!
The Spirited Awards co-ordinator
Philip Duff, Director of Education, Tales of the Cocktail
Natalie Bovis, The Liquid Muse
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6.
Ann Tuennerman has had the biggest influence on my career, thanks to Tales, where I’ve forged long-term friendships and business partners. My Spirited Awards video was the highlight of this year because I got to interview the best in the business. And, sharing Mind Body Spirits workshops over three days has given me renewed purpose in the industry.
5.
Inspiring people inspire inspiring cocktails What do Steve Jobs and Coco Chanel have in common with Ada Coleman and a Japanese economist? They’re just some of the unconventional people who inspired bartenders from around the world to create new cocktails as part of the G’Vine Perspectives Challenge. Here all of the winning 11 bartenders share their inspirations and the G’Vine serves they created to salute them. Emma Andrew Heads & Tales, UK
Ferñao Gonçalves Casa de Pasto, Portugal
Florian Drucks-Jacobsen Liquid Bar, Germany
A da Cole m a n
Ma ria Joa o Frei ta s
René Ma gri t te
“The bar world in the early 1900s was dominated by men but she did things on her own terms to become the first, and to date only, female head bartender at The American Bar at The Savoy.”
“When I visit my mother Maria in my home village I am always inspired by the way she grows so many types of food and herbs. She has chosen not to take things easy but to work harder in her garden. I have used ingredients she has grown to make my drink.”
“I’ve been fascinated by this artist since I was a child. I really like the way he was completely original doing things no one had done before. My cocktail is based on his painting of a pipe which is called Ceci n’est pas une pipe, which means This is not a pipe.”
Lavender Garden 50ml G’Vine Floraison Slice of ginger 15ml orange juice 15ml lemon juice 1 bar spoon brown sugar 20ml egg white 2 drops lavender bitters Fresh bio lavender flower 2 basil leaves
Ceci n’est pas un thé 60ml G’Vine Floraison 30ml virgin pineapple juice 15ml Cachaca Armazem Vieira 3 anos 1 bar spoon simple syrup Pinch of salt
Ode to Ada 50ml G’Vine Nouaison 15ml Rinn Quinn Quinn 15ml St Germaine 10ml rosemary syrup 15ml tartaric acid Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into a Coupe glass. Garnish with a grapefruit twist.
Dry shake all the ingredients, add ice and shake again. Double strain into a chilled Rocks glass and garnish with a dehydrated orange slice. 44 - The Cocktail Lovers
Shake all the ingredients over ice and strain into a teacup. Garnish with an edible flower.
IN-dependent spirits
Photography: pavlos papadopoulos
Cyprus calling
IN-dependent spirits
New cocktail destination alert: Cyprus, in particular Nicosia. Never been there? You should. And when you do, make sure you check out Lost + Found Drinkery. Not being funny but we doubt whether its neighbours truly appreciated the gem they had on their doorstep when it appeared on the scene almost two years ago. Why would they? Despite the close proximity to Greece and the amazing bars there, particularly in Athens, craft cocktails have never really been a thing around these parts. Until Dinos Constantinides decided to shake things up, that is. Everybody needs a leader, someone to take things on to the next level. That’s the role Constantinides plays in elevating the Cyprus bar scene. Having cultivated a thirst for quality drinks after taking part in global competitions like Bacardi Legacy, building up an impressive contacts book and keeping an eye on emerging trends, he was determined to sprinkle a little of that magic cocktail dust at home.
The main investment front of house was the copper bar top and the specially installed spotlights that put the cocktails very much in focus. Which brings us on to the main draw, the drinks. How do you go about weaning people off their usual Mojitos and 1970s-style concoctions and coax them into imbibing the good stuff? “We knew getting the locals to understand flavour profiles would be an essential part of getting them to try out different drink styles, so we introduced a cocktail map from day one,” explains Constantinides. “It works by dividing the menu into sweet, sweet sour, sweet, dry sweet, and dry, then makes the choices even simpler by breaking it down from light to strong.” It’s easy to navigate and has proved quite the marketing tool in getting crowds through the door.
And he’s done it in an unassuming spot in central Nicosia. The site, located in a residential area, was originally acquired to house a bar school and event space. Then the market crashed. And you know that way in which the best things often come from adversity? Well, that’s what happened here. Rather than letting something that could have, in effect, ruined his business plan, Constantinides turned it into a positive and decided to transform the place into a bar instead. Not some bog-standard bar or rowdy nightclub affair, you understand. His vision was to create a destination bar that would win over the locals and draw in the international cocktail cognoscenti. But first he had to transition the space into a place where the crowds would come flocking. “We had to transform the layout, nothing drastic but we did it all ourselves,” he says proudly, “The walls, the shelving, the tables – everything. We had virtually no budget when we were starting out, hence the reason it’s called Lost + Found, all the furniture and bits and pieces you see here were either donated by friends and family, borrowed or found along the way.” Consequently it’s a curious but endearing mash-up of styles and influences that you’d never find in one room if an interior designer had been involved. In one corner there’s the prized pinball machine, in another an illuminated cabinet filled with personal tiki mugs. Then there’s the middle wall revealing patches of artily exposed brickwork and a montage of Marvel comics. In the middle of it all is the bar itself, just three metres long with room enough for two bartenders to work at a time. The close proximity doesn’t seem to have been too much of a problem – all of the staff have been onboard since day one. That despite the back bar being as simple as it gets: a D.I.Y trestle effect jobby accessorised with bar paraphernalia they’ve accumulated along the way. It’s a snug room (read small), with just enough space for 20 people or so. Not that it matters. Most take their drinks outside and sit at the makeshift tables and benches that sprawl on the pavement.
The other big draw has been the roster of international guest shift ‘tenders Constantinides has invited to star behind the bar. “We’ve had people like Steve Schneider from Employee’s Only in New York, Thanos Prunarus from Baba Au Rum in Athens, Bar Shira and Ben Sheridan from Imperial Craft Cocktail in Tel Aviv, Nicolas Saint-Jean from Paris, Marian Beke from Nightjar in London and David Cordoba from 28 Hong Kong Street in Singapore – the guest shifts are a big part of what we do here.” It’s a smart move. Not only do big name bartenders have pull appeal but it means they become ambassadors of sorts for the place – talking about the bar in Nicosia and raising its profile at the same time. Needproof?Lost+Foundisalready ontheWorld’s50BestBars list this year. To find out where it's placed, check thecocktaillovers.com on October 8th. Meanwhile, ifyou’re heading to Cyprus, be sure to make a detour to Nicosia to find out what all the fuss is about. Lost + Found Drinkery, 38 Lord Byron 1095, Nicosia. facebook.com/lfdrinkery
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IN-dustry greats
In those 42 years, Tom Nichol and Tanqueray have become inextricably linked. How does it feel to be leaving the business? You need to know when it’s time to go and for me, that time has come. Tanqueray needs new blood as well. I may be kept on as some kind of ambassador if they want me, if not then so be it. When was your official retirement date? July 3rd. I chose that date for a reason – the next day was Independence Day!
they're based. They also have a fantastic young distiller called Nathan Perry, who reminds me of me when I was young, I've got every confidence that he's going to do a really good job. I'll be there every six months and I'm looking forward to it – it's a really exciting project. What are the most important attributes to being a Master Distiller? Knowing your job. A lot of my work is in my nose – I don’t need to taste. You’ve got to be passionate and make part of it fun. I try to put fun into everything I do.
What will you miss most about the job? I’ll miss the Tanqueray people, we’re a great family. They’ll still be there but in a year’s time, Tom Nichol will be in the past – that will be hard for me and I guess it will be quite difficult to move on. I really hope we’ll still be friends. But a little bird tells us that you haven't quite grasped the concept of retirement – you've given up one job only to take on two new ones! What's the story? Ha! Yes, I was approached by a few companies after news of my retirement got out. Jonathan Clark at the City of London Distillery was one. He was keen to get me on board, so I went to meet him – for me, it's all about whether I like someone, and I got on well with him. We've worked on a recipe that will be launched on 23rd October. Was it exciting or nerveracking working on a completely different gin? It was a nice feeling getting back to doing something I know and love but I found it quite a difficult process. It's working with different people for a start and also working with different equipment. Then there's the gin iself: I didn't want a gin that people thought was similiar to Tanqueray – that wouldn't have done me any good or been good for Tanqueray. Jonathan and I did try something really different but that didn't work – instead we've gone for a very good, very solid London Dry. That's London, what's this we hear about you spreading the Tom Nichol magic in America? Steve Olson asked me if I'd be interested in working with Andy Rieger and Ryan Maybee, the two guys behind the J.Rieger Distillery. I wasn't looking for anything but I went to meet the guys, and I really liked them, I liked the set-up and I really liked Kansas where
These days some people think that 42 years in the same industry is kind of boring but I wouldn’t change a thing. If you could distil your character into a gin, what botanicals would you choose and why? This is the best question I’ve ever been asked! You know me, I tend to swear a lot, but it doesn’t work for everyone. So I asked my wife about this and she immediately said, ‘something citrus’, because I can be very cutting and not to everybody's taste – her words not mine. I do believe that I would be a total blend of botanicals, remembering that not everybody likes gin. I think that once you get to know me and you get past the cutting citrus side of me, you may even get to like me.”
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IN-formed
MAINS & MARTINIS
RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD
Hunter486
Cookoovaya
Bodega 1900
The Arch London, 50 Great Cumberland Place, London W1H 7FD. T: 020 7724 0486. thearchlondon.com
Hatzigianni Mexi 2a, Athens 11528, Greece. T: 00 30 210 723 5005. cookoovaya.gr
Carrer de Tamarit, 91, 08015, Barcelona, Spain. T: 00 34 933 25 26 59. bodega1900.com
Who: A slightly more grown up, sophisticated clientele. What: A restaurant/bar with a gentlemen's club feel in the heart of the West End. When: Daily à la carte 3pm-10.30pm. Wear: Although there's no strict code the surroundings definitely call for a dressed up feel. The Cocktail Girl says: The small dining room with lush leather booths make for an initimate and private dining experience – the perfect location for date night! Hot dish: Although the stars of the menu here are the variety of gorgeous grilled steaks, the whole seabass with orange and rosemary butter is sublime. Cool cocktail: Be sure to check out their impressive selections of Bellinis, especially my favourite – the light, fragrant and summery lychee and pear Bellini – summer in a glass. The Cocktail Guy says: Impress at a business dinner or ramp it up for a date – this suits all occasions. Hot dish: The menu is packed with traditional British favourites but the stonebaked pizzas are well worth checking out. Cool cocktail: Rock Around The Clock (Bloom gin, fresh cucumber, lemongrass, aloe vera water and elderflower), light, delicious and perfectly balanced.
Who: The emphasis is on families and sharing but with a dream team of chefs on board it's got foodies all a-flutter. What: Traditional flavours of Greece given a masterful twist. When: Daily 1pm-1am. Wear: Casual, light and airy. Ms S says: Take five top chefs, put them into an open-plan kitchen and boy have you got yourself one helluva show. Cool concept, great cooking and a host of wonderful dishes to share. Hot dish: Beef carpaccio with smoked eel mayonnaise – sounds weird but it's a veritable taste sensation. Cool cocktail: The team have partnered up with the ace crew at The Clumsies to create the cocktail list. I loved The Smokey Mentor (hazelnut infused Bulleit Rye, Antica formula, chocolate bitters). Mr G says: Despite it's very smart appearance the whole atmosphere is extremely relaxed, friendly and unpretentious. Perfect for sharing a selection of the ultra tasty tapas. Hot dish: The sea bass carpaccio with dill and onion was simple but full of flavour. And make sure to try a dessert – the chocolate profiteroles with peanut butter ice cream were right on the money. Cool cocktail: The Ferrum Gimlet (gin, greens and porcini mushroom cordial, St-Germain elderflower liqueur).
Who: Diners who can't get a booking at Tickets over the road. And clever bods who got in on this precious gem early on. What: The best tapas in Spain. When: Tues-Sat 1am-8pm. Wear: Who cares? Everyone's too busy eating to notice. Ms S says: Would the Adrià brothers of El Bulli fame be involved with anything that wasn't worth salivating over? This is tapas in HD but still remains respectful of Spanish culture. Hot dish: The menu changes daily but you'd be hard pressed to find a dud in the house. Go all out on the antipasti. Cool cocktail: Actually it was the dessert, a deliciously simple medley of cubed melon infused in vermouth and gin – the perfect melon Martini. Mr G says: Manages to feel both classic and contemporary at the same time. You could have just a couple of dishes and be very happy, but do yourself a favour, settle back and ease your way through a long, long selection. Hot dish: Every time you think you’ve found your favourite, another one is served up and that becomes your favourite. And so on. What a place. Cool cocktail: Keep it simple. It’s all about the vermouth so ask for a recommendation. They’ll also suggest whether it works best with just ice, some soda or a little sparkling wine.
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IN-formed
WORD UP... NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS AND HOW-TO’S
TWO REASONS TO HAVE VERMOUTH ON YOUR RADAR RIGHT NOW According to Global Martini Ambassador Giuseppe Gallo: 1. It’s an essential modifier for classic cocktails such as a Manhattan, Rob Roy or Dry Martini – a Dry Martini without vermouth is nothing but a double shot of vodka or gin! 2. Consumers are more health conscious and tend to drink more responsibly than they did 10 years ago. Consequently there’s a stronger focus on calories, and a rise in popularity of aperitifs such as Americanos, and Spritzers. Vermouth was the first form of bottled cocktail (wine + sugar + alcohol + aromatic herbs), and doesn’t need any other ingredients to create a good concoction: add a splash of Prosecco or dash of Campari and the cocktail is ready! Try this: GARIBALDINO: 30ml Martini Bitter 30ml Martini Rubino Vermouth di Torino Freshly squeezed orange juice Luxardo sour cherry to garnish Pour all ingredients into a highball glass over ice cubes and garnish with a Luxardo sour cherry.
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POSTCARD FROM LEBANON By Jad Ballout, Central Station Boutique Bar Lebanon, a Mediterranean country located in the Middle East, is known for having a vibrant nightlife, especially in its capital, Beirut. From nightclubs to beach clubs, from fancy rooftops to neighbourhood bars, Lebanon can cater for all tastes and lifestyles. As for cocktail lovers, the scene is somehow new and has developed in recent years in terms of bartenders, bars and consumers. Demand for cocktails has grown and Lebanese bartenders are beginning to take this profession seriously and consider it as a lifetime career. Many cocktail bars have opened recently and the big competitions, like the Diageo World Class and Bacardi Legacy, have helped in the evolution of the cocktail scene. They always bring big names from the industry to run seminars, such as Dale DeGroff, Erik Lorincz, Angus Winchester, Salvatore Calabrese, David Cordoba and others. This has been really helpful in teaching the Lebanese bartenders about cocktail trends and in getting familiar with the global cocktail scene. My bar, Central Station Boutique Bar (Armenia Street, Mar Mikhayel, Beirut) is a cocktail bar situated in the heart of Beirut and has been open for almost two years. The idea of this place emerged after I won the Diageo World Class 2013 in Lebanon and participated in the Global Finals. I wanted to offer something new in terms of cocktails and be innovative in my market, while bringing international cocktail standards and trends to my country and putting Lebanon on the global cocktail map. Central’s cocktail programme offers an all-year-long menu that has classic cocktails and signatures, in addition to seasonal menus: summer, winter and holidays. It also offers two weekly signature cocktails displayed on chalkboards behind the bar. As we are a Mediterranean country we use a lot of local herbs, seasonal fruits and spices in our cocktails. Central Station is always keen to host international bartenders for guest shifts such as Monica Berg, Marian Beke and Charles Joly, to name a few. Elsewhere, one of the oldest cocktail bars in Beirut is Pacifico (Monot Street, Ashrafieh, Beirut), a Mexican restaurant bar that’s been open for more than 15 years. It offers Mexican food, Margaritas and Daiquiris, in addition to international cocktails. Junkyard (Armenia Street, Mar Mikhayel, Beirut), as its name hints, is a unique place as all its decoration and furniture is made from recycled junk. It has a nice outdoor garden bar where you can enjoy refreshing signature cocktails. Another summer outdoor place is Terminal B (Armenia Street, Mar Mikhayel, Beirut), an old brick house with no ceiling turned into a grill bar concept that serves fruity and summery cocktails.
IN-formed The
Cocktail
Girl
In pursuit of spiritual enlightenment in London’s bars
Tonic & Remedy
ONE FOR THE DRINKS CABINET FRIDGE Blackberry & Tamarind Spiced Rum Punch When you can’t be doing with the faff of mixing but still want a quality drink, this bottle of joy is just what the (cocktail) doctor ordered. Juicy berries, a spicy hit of tamarind and a good glug of vanilla-rich Pink Pigeon rum make it perfect for drinking. Anytime. worldofzing.com
There’s a new bar in town – and this one is taking a rather medicinal approach to the libations on offer. Now, as someone who often extols the health virtues of a strong slug of gin, Tonic & Remedy definitely appeals to my nature. And so it was time for a trip to the newly opened M by Montcalm – a towering vision of modern style in glass and chrome, located on City Road in East London. Heading up the bar is cocktail maestro Jeremy Pascal, whose creations I have had the pleasure of sipping before. Not only did he previously hold the fort at Sixtyone in Marble Arch, but he was also one of the winners of last year’s Bénédictine competition. In his career he’s been decorated with several titles, including the likes of ‘Sir Mix-a-Lot’ - so what kind of crazy and creative drinks is he coming up with now? When I arrive, there’s already a hubbub at the bar – word has spread fast and people are keen to experience the show. There’s certainly a sense of theatre to be enjoyed here – it's smokes, fizzes, flames and flair galore, and I’m presented with the Tonic & Remedy signature – The Apothecary. I watch as Jeremy takes a copper shaker and begins to add his potions – there’s Bénédictine, Green Chartreuse, Drambuie… and then there’s suddenly a burst of fire, a delicious smell, some rosemary and a heap of crushed ice in a metal beaker, where the drink is served short and strong. It’s fabulous - slightly herbaceous, with a more-ish sweetness from butterscotch peach jam, and a plucky kick. Now, any cocktail girl worth her salt-rimmed glass is partial to a fine Sazerac, and so it was with more than a little excitement that I was told I must try the Mysterious Sazerac. It’s delicious – a dreamy cocktail that has real complexity of flavour, and is accompanied by home-smoked candyfloss. Other notable libations include the Ernest Especial, and a drink that is inspired by a hangover remedy. Yep, the Bar’Rock’K almost feels like you’re doing yourself some good. Apparently, Tonic & Remedy wanted to honour its location by paying homage to the apothecaries that once worked there, creating restoratives and potions that would revitalise the imbiber. The result? A bar where one leaves feeling more inspired, impressed, and enamoured with the cocktail world. And that is a heady draught indeed. 151-157 City Road, London EC1V 1JH. tonicandremedy.co.uk
Pick of the season New York bound? Make it your business to check out Dante.The light-filled space blends old-school Italian charm with bang-on-the-money tastes for modern palates. Don't miss the aperitivo-style cocktails by Naren Young, we're completely sold. 79-81 MacDougal Street, 10012 New York dante-nyc.com
DID YOU KNOW?
This summer the Savoy hotel bought 300kg of British cherries and preserved them in Jack Daniels and Martini Rossi for use throughout the year… The Cocktail Lovers - 57
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Olly Foster, 'Fozzy', is the bar manager. His menu is based on twists on the classics, done with precision and craftsmanship. I like the sound of the Beetroot Bloody Mary. It's not often I order one of these when I go out, but this is the tastiest Bloody Mary I've ever had. With the secret spice mix and horseradish-infused vodka, I'm hooked! The Wash House, Secret Bar. The latest bar to open its doors is The Wash House. Sorry I can’t reveal the location, you will need to find it yourself. This is one of Manchester's better interpretations of a speakeasy. Its dark, moody lighting and lovely booths are perfect.
The Liquor Store, Blackfriars Street, M3 2EG. theliquorstore.co.uk The Liquor Store is a cool bar with a New York meets UK rock 'n' roll vibe. I haven't been here for a couple of years and since then Danny Bigg-Wither has become manager. Better known as 'Biggie', not only is he a great bartender, he is an entertainer! St. Hendrick’s Elderly Rose is a house favourite (Hendrick’s, St-Germain elderflower liqueur, Briottet rose, lemon, apple and Prosecco,) served like a Mojito, but with cucumber and rose petals instead of mint and limes.
Here I met Rebecca ‘Bevvypops’. I’m aware of her creativity and The Wash House's menu is full of treats. I went with Memoirs of a Geisha because it's one of my favourite films. It was beautifully presented with a sushi and pickled ginger garnish and had a hit of wasabi, a gentle hit of lychee and fresh finish of pear – I loved it! Rebecca knows that I have a bit of a sweet tooth so next she makes me 'Let Them Eat Cake', garnished with a mini Battenberg – too cute and it tastes great too. Elixir Tonics and Treats, Deansgate, M3 2BY. elixir-manchester.co.uk The first time I visited this bar I was so excited I couldn't decide what to choose from the menu. So I went for a milkshake-style drink that came in a cocktail shaker with a white chocolate dipped strawberry – it was delightful! The presentation here is beautiful; the drinks look ready to enter a cocktail competition, and the 'powder room' is so pretty it’s as if you are in your own personal dressing room. I recently met Douglas Ankrah, the creator of the Porn Star Martini, so spotting the Lovelace Martini on the menu, described as a twist on the Porn Star, I felt that I had to order it. It's also a house favourite. I'm not surprised as it was so damn tasty! Not too sweet, almost like an orange barley sugar drop – perfectly balanced, and just like the original it came with a shot of Prosecco and a sugarveil garnish. Having written about my favourite bars, I also asked The B.O.M.B (the bartenders of Manchester bars Facebook page, created by Nate Booker). The three bars mentioned were Hawksmoor, The Liquor Store and Gas Lamp. So I went to investigate. Hawksmoor, Deansgate, M3 3WB. thehawksmoor.com Hawksmoor Manchester opened its doors in March with menus very much the same as the London sites, but with a few specials including local ales Wild Boar IPA and Buxton. Richie West is the bar manager and he made me a cocktail he created, a twist on an Aviation using Mr Fitzpatrick's Blood Tonic, made locally in Rawtenstall. The drink was very tasty – a little sweeter than the original but still with that zing!
Clockwise from top: crazy pedro's; the lady didsbury daiquiri at club brass; fozzy's beetroot bloody mary at tariff and dale; facing page: tariff and dale
Gas Lamp, Bridge Street, M3 3BW. What a hidden gem this place is – a quirky Victorian drinking den with original 1860s tiled walls and a corridor lined with vintage mirrors. With four rotating cask ale lines, four rotating keg ale lines, over 80 single malt whiskies and 27 different gins, I can see why it's a bartenders’ favourite place to hang out! Susie Wong can be found at The Molly House (26 Richmond Street, Manchester, M1 3NB. themollyhouse.com), and working as Ambassador for Forest Gin forestgin.com.
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The Cocktail Lovers hitlist starts here: Bar 68 Sant Pau 68, 08001 Barcelona This one isn’t quite there yet but there’s something about it that we really like. Starting with the spirit of the owners… It takes chutzpah to set up a bar with big ideas in the so-called seedy Raval area (think Shoreditch before it became Shoreditch and you’ve got the right idea). There’s also the fact they’re resolutely doing things their way: “we don’t do salad in our Gin & Tonics”, and are trying to push things out there in terms of cocktails. “Spanish people enjoy simplicity, not creativity, there’s not that curiosity for cocktails that we’re going for,” the owner told us. For those who are up for the adventure though, there’s plenty going on here, including barrel ageing, experimental cocktails and a whole selection of drinks made with distillates from various countries including Japan, Bangladesh and Maryland. Give it a try.
No prizes for guessing that gins, in many guises, are the stars here. Some popular, others from an exclusive selection – served straight, paired with a wide range of tonics, or mixed into cocktails. We liked the GinFonks aka ‘the evolution of the Gin and Tonic’ – (either Tanqueray No. TEN with agave nectar, tangerine, bitter chamomile and kaffir lime, or Hendrick’s with rose tea infusion, strawberries, lime and vegetal elixir – both absolutely refreshing, aromatic and delightful). Other spirits are present as is a selection of cool cocktails like The Patent (rested tequila, absinthe, punt e mes, fig liqueur and grapefruit bitters). Make a meal of it (literally) and try the Gin and Tonic salmon, the burger paired with a Gin & Tonic of the month, or gin matched to your meal.
Boadas Carrer dels Tallers 1, 08001 Barcelona. boadascocktails.com.en Cocktails in an historical setting you say? You could try Ideal (Carrer d’Aribau 89, 08036 Barcelona. idealcocktailbar.com) if you’re visiting Dry Martini and Solange along the same road. But for a real slice of nostalgia, Boadas gets our vote every time. True, it’s lost some of its magic now that Maria Dolores Boadas no longer runs and holds court in the bar passed on to her by her father, Miguel. He opened it in 1933 after discovering his passion for bartending at El Floridita in Cuba and it’s become something of an institution ever since. They do things in a particular way here, not just in the way they ‘throw’ their drinks in mesmerising rhythmic fashion, but how there’s no such thing as a menu. Two drinks are chalked up on the board at any one time but the team are on hand to mix up anything you like – in an elegant, time-honoured Boadas style. Bobby Gin Carrer de Francisco Giner 47, 08012 Barcelona. bobbygin.com For those who want more from their gin than a glug of tonic in an oversized wine glass, there's Alberto Pizarro's Bobby Gin. This place has no qualms about being cool – and why should it? It's got the gin thing well and truly down pat and has added a few funky twists to the mix as well. That starts with the decor – all cool-as-you-like reclaimed wood and bold, tongue-in-chic graphics, and continues with a selection of super fly drinks.
one of the very cool cocktails at bobby gin
Caribbean Club Carrer de la Sitges 5, 08001 Barcelona. caribbeanclubbarcelona.com Juanjo Gonzalez runs things here and it’s clear from the outset where the heartbeat of the place comes from: the sea and rum; references to both are everywhere you look. The other big clue is in the name. However, this slice of the Caribbean is centred around Cuba and the wealth of classic cocktails associated with it, so expect Daiquiris and El Presidentes rather than anything of the stir-it-up reggae kind. The Cuban connection isn’t a whim, it goes back to Miguel Boadas of Boadas fame (see left) who bought the intimate, dark wood panelled bar after arriving in Spain from his native Havana. It’s been in Juanjo’s hands since 2012 and having trained at Boadas, the old man would have most definitely approved. This is very much a party in a living room kind of place – drinks made by someone who genuinely looks like they want you to have a good time. We went for a Cuban Manhattan and Plantation Mai Tai (don't ask for ingredients, we turned up late and had such a good time, we didn't write them down!)
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Dry Martini Aribau 162, 08036 Barcelona. drymartiniorg.com
a martini at the altar at dry martini
If there’s anything that Javier de las Muelas and his team have overlooked in the arrangement of this slick operation, we’d like to know about it. This is as smooth a set up as you’re likely to find – not just in Barcelona but anywhere. All of the Dry Martinis around the world (Madrid, San Sebastián, Bali, Costa Brava, Singapore, Rio, Massachusetts and soon, London), have been carefully considered and follow a tried and tested format, i.e. they’re grown up, sexy, designed with women's comfort in mind, mix in the past but look to the future and are very, very stylish. That said, this is where it all started and consequently is the role model for all the rest. There’s the spacious bar with the trademark cocktail artworks from Javier’s private collection, a stunning speakeasy restaurant with an impressive wine cellar, and an adjoining training school for staff and customers who want a taster of the Dry Experience – like we said, everything has been carefully considered. Then there are the drinks. If you can, try to get a pew at the bar for the best vantage point in the house – facing the 'altar', the hallowed spot reserved for making Martinis. It goes without saying that you should order one made to their preferred recipe (half London Dry Gin, half French vermouth, one dash of orange bitters), mixed with passion, precision and pride. And don't leave without collecting your certificate bearing the number of your Martini. That's all a given. We suggest taking time to soak up the setting – the vintage bottles, and carefully curated cocktail paraphernalia then trying some of the other cocktails as well – they're majestic. Hotel Claris Grand Luxe Barcelona Carrer Pau Claris 150, 08009 Barcelona. hotelclaris.com Fancy a bit of rooftop action? Check out Hotel Claris. Opened in 1992 for the Barcelona Olympics, it was the
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first terrace on a rooftop in Barcelona and is still a big attraction around these parts, particularly at night when the pool turns into a loungey area. You have to make allowances for the fact that most guests here favour what we'll just call ‘less challenging’ drinks; things like Long Island Iced Teas, and sunshine, terrace-friendly Aperol Spritz. Adrian Batlle, a former World Class Spain finalist, also voted Best Bartender Catalunya 2013, has a few tricks up his sleeve for those who want something a little stronger though. We particularly liked his Dry Martini Royale (Tanqueray No. TEN, lemon, mint and vermouth), softer, subtler, more suited to the climate than your regular Dry Martini. For a bigger hitter in the taste department we also recommend the Stormsphere (Talisker, Pedro Ximenez, orange bitters and orange peels), his World Class entry drink, it worked a treat with us. Mutis Avenida Diagonal 438, 08037 Barcelona This set up could confuse stupid people (that’s us by the way and yes it did). Bar Mut is the operation serving excellent food and drinks to an appreciative crowd on ground level during the day and evening. Enquire about getting a booking at Mutis however, and you may or may not get booked into its sexier grown up sister who wakes up at around 11 o’clock Thursday through to Saturday evenings. Housed in an unassuming apartment block around the corner, it’s for all-the-world an open-plan living space turned into a cabaret lounge. You can’t help but wonder how the neighbours cope – not only is there live music pumping at all hours, but the stream of in-the-know visitors filing up and down the stairs would be enough to keep anyone awake. We like to think they’re amongst the guests enjoying the cool vibes and first-class cocktails on offer here. If not, they’re missing out on one of the best parties in town while they’re knocking out the zeds. Booking essential. Ohla Via Laietana 49, 08003 Barcelona. ohlahotel.com If we told you we’d have thought that this much-lauded bar would be tucked off the main reception area, we’d be lying. Based on how much everyone talks about it, we were expecting much bigger things. But the size and location turn out to be a major part of the attraction. That and the exemplarly service. The space itself is pared back and modern, allowing the drinks to do the talking, which they do very eloquently indeed. Try the Mediterranean Treasure (Ketel One vodka, coriander, fino sherry, lemon juice, agave, egg white and oyster leaf) and the Great Gatsby (Johnnie Walker Gold Label, Pedro Ximénex sherry, lavender bitters).
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Solange Carrer d’Aribau 143, 08036 Barcelona. solangecocktail.com Solange is a veritable whippersnapper of a bar, located on the same street as the mighty Dry Martini and oldtimer Ideal. Incidentally, it’s only a block or so away from Tandem, the very classic bar that’s been run by the Pernía family for 30 years. The two younger Pernía brothers are still there doing things in time-honoured fashion but the eldest, Alfredo, has gone for groovy at Solange, the bar inspired by Solange Dimitrios in Ian Fleming’s Casino Royale. His vision for cocktails and the environment they’re served in is slinky and sexy in a seventies disco-era kinda way. “I want my customers to enter a certain lifestyle as soon as they step through the door,” says Alfredo. How Bond would have loved it – the gilt, the glorious crystal glassware, the glamour. Some of the cocktails on the list are sweeter crowd pleasers, but for those who come here for the drinks rather than the opulent setting, rest assured head bartender Miguel Pérez Muñoz and co know their way around a cocktail shaker. For proof, ask for the Don Porfirio (rum, orgeat, all spice and chocolate mole bitters) or the El Señorita (Oloroso Lustau, Mancino, sweet vermouth and mole bitters). Bloody Mary fans will love the way they serve it here: good and boozy in a vac-pac with a wink and a smile.
sexy solange
WHEN IN SPAINDon’t miss checking out the vermouth Don’t miss checking out the vermouth: Where to buy: Espinaler Avinguda del Progrès 47, 08340, Barcelona. espinaler.com Make time to stock up at this warehouse selling Espinaler, one of the biggest-selling brands of vermouth in Barcelona. Includes a shop, bar and terrace. What to try: Vermut Negre A deeply delicious, sherry-tasting red/black vermouth from Casa Mariol. We also love the funky packaging. Where to drink: Bodega Ca’l Pepe Carrer Verdi 141, 08012 Barcelona All faded glamour in a good way – it’s been around for a century or so and shows no signs of being modernised. It's invariably packed but that just adds to the appeal. Wait your turn for the swift turnaround of excellent tapas and wash it down with vermouth.
VERMOUTH RULES * The Calatan term for 'have a vermouth' is 'fer en vermut'. * Always order ‘vermut de la casa’ (house vermouth) and stick to red or black – never white. Over page, left: pull up a pew at the alter at dry martini; this page, clockwise from top: alfredo pernía (front) and the team at solange; the wondrous speakeasy restaurant and extensive wine collection at dry martini; smoking cocktail at solange
* The traditional accompaniment for your vermut is ice, a slice of orange and an olive, never cocktail ingredients. * Never ask for Martini when in Spain – it won't cut it in the cool stakes.
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SNAPSHOT: 1.
Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months 4.
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2.
6. 3.
10. 1. Naomi Watts and Sienna Miller at the Sea of Trees screening after party, sponsored by Grey Goose. Cannes, May 2015.
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8. Sapphire East and St-Germain. New York, May 2015.
2. BacardĂ Legacy Global Cocktail Challenge finalists 'selfie'. Sydney, May 2015.
5. Guests enjoying an exclusive tour of the Palais of Versaille at the Martell 300 birthday celebrations. Paris, May 2015.
3. Martell Cognac ambassador Diane Kruger at the Martell 300 birthday celebrations. Paris, May 2015.
6. 10th Annual Jazz Age Lawn Party, presented by St-Germain and Martini & Rossi. New York, June 2015.
4. Alexa Chung at the Vogue Pre-Met PJ Party, sponsored by Moet & Chandon, Bombay
7. Sigrid Ehm winner of the Bombay Sapphire World's Most Imaginative Bartender Competition. London, May 2015.
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7. 8. Ozwald Boeteng at the Tateossian & Elton John Aids Foundation LC.M party. London, June 2015. 9. Erin O' Connor at the Ralph Lauren and Vogue Wimbledon Cocktail Party, hosted by Alexander Shulman and Boris Becker. London, June 2015. Photo Dave Benett. 10. Maximilian Warner, Masa Urushido, Ago Perrone and Giovanni Martinez with winner Josh Reynods (centre) at the Chivas Masters winner's dinner. New Orleans, July 2015.