The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 21 Autumn 2016

ISSUE 21

AUTUMN 2016

London Pride

Serving drinks in style Capital choices

From London’s drinks history to its award-winning bars

Honouring Dick Bradsell

The man who made cocktails in the capital cool

+ La Dolce Vita at the Connaught Bar

ISSN 2052 0603

IN-tro

MASTER CRAF TSMAN

M AV E R I C K PERNICKETY

DEVIANT

ECCENTRIC

GENIUS All words used to describe one man. Dick Bradsell. Ask anyone in the know, who they believe was responsible for giving London its cool cocktail capital status and 10 out of 10 will cite Dick Bradsell. You may not have known him but you're sure to have enjoyed one of his drinks: ever sipped an Espresso Martini?

That's one of his. The Bramble and Russian Spring Punch are too. His weren't complicated cocktails – that wasn't his style, he was about simple, session drinks that you'd go back for again and again. He passed away earlier this year and we resolved that we'd dedicate this, our London issue, to him. His daughter Bea Bradsell, no slouch in the bartending department herself, shares her thoughts on growing up with a drinks legend and we talk to just a few of the many people who worked with or were inspired by him (p. 14).

It's as if London's bars were honouring him too. At the 10th annual Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards earlier this year, the capital's bars picked up the top spot in eight categories.

We caught up with the teams and asked them to show off their hardware, see the results on p. 32. Then over at the Connaught Bar, awarded World's Best Bar no less, we asked Ago Perrone and his Italian team to strike a pose for us, a la Dolce Vita (p.38).

The rest of the issue is unapologetically London focused too – well, it is published to coincide with London Cocktail Week.

Read about the people, places and history of this fascinating city and while you do so, please raise a glass to Dick Bradsell.

Happy imbibing!

Ms S & Mr G

thecocktaillovers.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 3

Our family of fine spirits.

www.bbr.com

IN-gredients

6. IN-the know

50. IN-focus

25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Rubbing it in, channelling our inner punk and cutting a dash – just a few of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months

Putting drinks on the map A love letter to the capital from the bar team at the American Bar at The Savoy

10. IN-terview In the hotseat – Hannah Sharman-Cox Get ready to Drink up London! The founder of London Cocktail Week tells us how

14. IN-spire Honouring Dick Bradsell Earlier this year the world lost one of its brightest mixing stars. We celebrate Dick Bradsell's legacy

24. IN-spire A sip in time Drinks historians Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown explore London's fascinating history in drinks

28. IN-the spotlight City slickers Is London the cocktail capital of the world? Ben Norum certainly thinks so.

He puts forward a convincing case…

32. IN-the spotlight London pride London's bars shone at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards this year. The winning bars show off their hardware

38. IN-style La Dolce Vita The award-winning Connaught Bar oozes Italian style as Ago Perrone and his team prove in this season's party styles

48. IN-dulge Juniper rising From Manchester to Brighton, Cambridge to Edinburgh – all pockets of Britain are now immortalised in gin.

Here are a few of the best

52. IN-focus We love London cocktails Extolling the virtues of cocktail culture in the city

54. IN-focus Capital gains Vodka, vermouth, gin, beer and even whisky, all sourced within the M25

56. IN-dependent spirits Totally tea Henrietta Lovell is the go-to lady when anyone in the cocktail industry wants to talk tea. Rebecca Milford gets some tips

58. IN-dustry greats An audience with the ambassador Bartender, brand ambassador and educator, Angus Winchester gets ready to add bar owner to his CV

62. IN-formed Mains and Martinis Three restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food

64. IN-formed Word up News, views, reviews and how-tos

68. IN-sider's guide Exploring Dublin With local boy Tom O'Brien from The Bartender Project

70. IN-ternational Bay watch Checking out the thriving bar scene in San Francisco

74. IN-vite only Snap-shot!

Doron Gild's winning shots from the Chivas Photo Booth at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards

The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015

Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Edd Leigh Aidan Shahbazkhani Photography: Tony Briscoe Beth Crockatt Johnnie Pakington Lawrence Watson Contributors: Jared Brown Micah Jodhan Tom O'Brien Paul Mathew Rebecca Milford Anistatia Miller Ben Norum Lauryn Tomlinson Yael Weisberg With special thanks to Bea Bradsell and Eline Bosman For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Stones The Printers Limited.

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

Cover: Illustration by Edd Leigh The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 21 Autumn 2016 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

The Cocktail Lovers - 5

25

REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Mixing beer and paint, seeing red and cutting a dash, just a few of the many things we're looking forward to in the next few months…

N1 o

Checking out the head turners We’re talking about Michael Dean, Anthea Hamilton, Helen Marten and Josephine Pryde, the four brilliant, very creative minds shortlisted for this year's Turner Prize, which celebrates the best in British contemporary art. What best to sip? A little something from Rich Woods at Duck & Waffle (duckandwaffle.com) should do the trick – perfectly conceived and always pushing boundaries.

portrait of anthea hamilton, photo by lewis ronald/turner prize 2016

Turner Prize 2016 is at Tate Britain until 2 January 2017. tate.org.uk

6 - The Cocktail Lovers

2

Mixing paint & beer

Sounds like a disaster but Lauren Smyth’s idea for fusing her father’s two passions is anything but. She’s currently patenting the design for her paint brew cans.

Keep everything crossed! smytwitdesign.com

04

…and one more on the packaging front: can we talk about this soon-to-bereleased range from Le Tribute?

If the mezcal, gin and tonic water taste even half as good as they look, boy are we in for a treat. letribute.com

IN-the know

03 …for a great-looking beer that is available, there’s Chelsea Blonde from The London Beer Factory, the first UK brewery to release its entire range in 360º topless cans. V. cool. thelondonbeerfactory.com

N5 o

Getting vinotyped Like Tinder for wine, this short, simple vinotyping test from Humble Grape guides you to your perfect match. Try it and see. humblegrape.co.uk/vinotyping

07

Making a splash

Go make waves in Beau Han Xu’s Diamond Couture jewellery collection – turning plain old water into H2-oh my! beauhanxu.com

six Seeing red

Sip it at room temperature, swirl it over ice or use it to add ‘oomph’ to your cocktails, either way Pontica Red Vermouth is the business. ponticadrinks.com

09 Rubbing it in

EIGHT

…budget not up to couture jewellery? Get straight to the point with these fab necklaces from gastronomista. bigcartel.com

Cultivating some fuzz on your chin?

Keep it in check with Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s Beard Oils. Choose from Barbarossa’s Beard Oil, based on Spanish bitters, or Morrissey’s Beard Oil, based on Dead Rabbit Orinoco Bitters, both made with 100% pure oils and beard-tingly, zingy botanicals. doctoradams.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 7

IN-the know

11

Saving face

10 o NDoing13 a

Blending our fragrance

…just like making cocktails, only layering with alcoholfree, solid scents instead. Boom! amygdalabeauty.com

…

12

Sucking up

White Lyan

…and ditching the ice.

Kaelo’s iceless bottle cooler comes in just shy of £2,000 but there’s not a drip or ruined label in sight. N-ice! kaelo.co.uk

FOURTEEN BLOWING HOT AND COLD

Winter warming peated whisky, cinnamon and honey swirled into ice cream, what’s not to like? Hot Toddy Ice Cream from Jude's & Laphroaig, available from ocado.com

8 - The Cocktail Lovers

Give your skin a boost with a Timebomb Complexion Cocktail containing either a shot of B12, H20mega or chlorophyll. Just the ticket for party season… timebombco.com

Even Scrooge would have enjoyed these… Gin & Elderflower Humbugs, hollyslollies.co.uk

15

Having our cake

…and scoffing it. Tipple Tails cakes are laced with a range of fruity liqueurs ensuring they live up to their name. reallygreatfruitcake.co.uk

16

Channelling our inner punk

For anyone who still thinks whisky is for old duffers, check out Project XX and IPA Experiment, the first two expressions in the Glenfiddich Experimental Series. Ballsy and brilliant in equal parts. glenfiddich.com

17 Tuning in to cocktails Cocktails, choons and chat, what more could you want from a podcast? Sign up for the monthly sessions at alcohaulofrecords.com

IN-the know

19

Dahl-ying around

What’s this: Roald Dahl’s The Twits reimagined in food and cocktail form?

Prepare for an assault on the senses at Dinner With The Twits curated by Bompas & Parr. twitsdinner.com

18. HAMMING

IT UP

Hurrah! The novelty Gin Pig is back.

Get yours at newcraftsmen.co.uk

20

Elevating the brew

Blended and bottled to add a new dimension to whisky and cognac, the luxury brews from Benjamin & Blum take tea to a whole new level. benjaminandblum.com

FEELING THE MEAD

22

Honey, fancy something a little different in your spritz? Try a few drops of Crowded Hive Mead when it launches in December – we beelieve it’s going to be the next big thing. crowdedhive.com

Cutting a dash

N 21 o

…as does the new offering at Dandelyan. Like afternoon tea but sooo much better, this one is made up of four courses each paired with exclusive botanical cocktails. dandelyanbar.com

23

Savile Row, home of fine tailoring, now has its own bespoke Martini, courtesy of Simone Caporale. Try it out for size at Sartoria every Wednesday until 14 December. sartoria-restaurant.co.uk

25

Celebrating big birthdays

150 years old and it hasn’t lost any of its taste or looks, Jack Daniel’s marks its anniversary with a limited edition 1 litre bottle. It would be rude not to… harveynichols.com

24 Keeping it classic Forget the mad and modern, Old Fashioned Week runs from 14-22 October. Get your fix at old-fashioned-week.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 9

IN-terview

IN THE HOTSEAT

10 - The Cocktail Lovers

HANNAH SHARMANCOX

IN-terview

HEAD HONCHO AT DRINK UP LONDON How and when did you get into the drinks industry?

I was a dancer working on the show River Dance in the US and while I was there I read about this place called Milk & Honey. The thing that struck me was its House Rules, I particularly liked the one that said, ‘Gentlemen will not introduce themselves to ladies. Ladies, feel free to start a conversation or ask the bartender to introduce you. If a man you don’t know speaks to you, please lift your chin slightly and ignore him’, I remember thinking that was the sort of place I should drink in.

When I got back to the UK I found out that it was opening a second outpost in London. Long story short, I got a job answering the phone. It wasn’t my dream to work in hospitality but I really loved it – I still see all the people I worked with then. I was there from 2002 – pretty much when it opened, and I worked for Jonathan Downey for five years until 2007. There was a real alumni of people from that time – we were winning everything. It was all down to Jonathan who is a genius, he was really generous with his teaching and training.

You’ve said that back then it was all fun, but when did it become a career?

I still don’t think of it as a career. For me being in this industry is fun, working with a wonderful team like Emma Murphy, Siobhan Payne and Jane Ryan doing something that we love. I honestly believe that there isn’t a city in the world that you could drop me in and there wouldn’t be someone who could help me out. That’s one of the great things about Facebook and this community, everybody’s sharing and everybody’s seeing what’s going on.

But you have made a business out of it.

Yes, London Cocktail Week is a big responsibility. We have 250 bars who offer special £5 cocktails as part of the bar tours for the week and 150 sponsors – that’s 400 clients. Each of them has an agency, or two agencies, they each have their staff and they’re all relying on us. So yes, it’s a business. But it’s still fun!

Everyone knows London Cocktail Week but not so much about your other initiative, Drink Up London.

When did it launch and why?

It launched quietly a year ago with 2,500 live pages. The idea was to give the three festivals we run – London Cocktail Week (3-9 October 2016), London Wine Week

and London Beer Week (2017 dates TBC)– a consistent voice throughout the year. I think the brand name is way more indicative of what we do.

How so?

We asked ourselves what was missing, what we have that no one else has and how we could make it relevant. There are a couple of things we do that are unique. For London Cocktail Week, I can’t comment on our beer and wine weeks because they’re still young, but most venues on those bar tours are up in sales by the end of the week, for example, White Lyan was up 50% last year. So being on those lists is really valuable.

Does the power of what you have created surprise you?

It delights me! Last year, the £5 drinks in London Cocktail Week alone meant that just shy of £700,000 stayed in the trade. If our wonderful industry is boosted by £1 million a year – which with Wine Week and Beer Week, it probably will be, if not in 2016, then definitely in 2017 – that's incredibly cool but we still ask ourselves if there's more we can do.

We want to keep pushing boundaries.

Keep relevant.

How do we make it easier to be a great drinker in London?

So what’s the plan?

There’s nothing dedicated to promoting the events that the drinks industry is putting on, so we’re doing it. This idea comes from all the years of brands asking me to help fill their guest lists. They're doing all these events for the trade and I’m suggesting that they run them again the next night for consumers, and we’ll fill it with our subscribers.

If you’re a bar there’s only so many times you can use your own database, but if you’re one of our partner bars we can reach out to our database – people who want to go out.

For example, 69 Colebrooke Row and Bar Termini give us full lists of their masterclasses and there’s a button on our website where people can sign up for them. We’ve got the people, we’ve got our bars, we like them, they like us, it works for everyone.

The Cocktail Lovers - 11

IN-terview

What are you proudest of?

Drink Up as a whole, I love it. But it's the big meetings that make me proud. I don’t mean the drinks brands, although they're great. I mean when we go to Time Out and they say this is the best thing we've ever worked with and how can we do more? Or when the Oxford Street Association asked us to curate a food and drink festival on Oxford Street, they didn't get the funding, but when this happens in your home, it’s amazing.

Would you ever roll the model out?

I’ve been asked if we would take it to other cities and I say no, because I don’t know the cities. This is my home, I know the streets, how they join up, the bus routes, the bars, these people are my pals.

What next for Drink Up? We’re going to bring it to the fore at the three Weeks and we plan to do more events as Drink Up, so that’s very exciting. The wristband is going digital in 2017, which will be an app with membership on your phone. What else? We want to keep pushing boundaries. Keep relevant.

How do we make it easier to be a great drinker in London?

How do we make it more approachable, more fun, more accessible? That should keep us busy for a while!

Would you have done this before? If not, why?

Because now it’s a real industry. We understand return on investment and KPIs (key performance indicators).

Everything we do is quantifiable. If you become a sponsor of ours we promise this and we deliver it; you get two mentions here, one mention there. If you don’t have much money you will get this back, or you can spend this and get more back. And if you’re a bar, for instance, and you sign up, you get an Instagram post that links to you. That’s valuable now and it didn’t exist before.

12 - The Cocktail Lovers

LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK RUNS FROM 3-9 OCTOBER. SEE DRINKUP.LONDON FOR DETAILS OF THIS AND ALL DRINK UP LONDON EVENTS.

Honouring Dick Bradsell On February 27th this year, the bar world lost one of its brightest stars – the father of modern classics Dick Bradsell.

Here, together with a few of the people who knew him best, we celebrate the man who made drinking in London cool‌

Photography: johnnie pakington for the cocktail lovers

IN-spire

MIX IT UP WITH ® ANGOSTURA PINK GIN & TONIC 50ml gin 3 dashes Angostura® aromatic bitters Tonic water Method: Pour gin into a Collins glass filled with ice. Add three dashes of Angostura® aromatic bitters. Top with tonic water. Stir gently and garnish with a lemon or lime wedge.

Whether your preference is for something long and light, or you veer towards the shorter, darker end of the drinks spectrum, you’re never far away from a first class cocktail with Angostura®.

With expressions ranging from Angostura® Reserva, the smooth, soft, white rum bursting with tropical fruit goodness, through to the seriously seductive, chocolatey rich Angostura® 7 Year Old Rum, there’s something to match every mood and taste profile. Add into the equation the new, perfectly balanced Amaro di Angostura® and Angostura® aromatic bitters and you’re in for winning drinks all round.

ANGOSTURA® OLD FASHIONED 50ml Angostura® 7 Year Old Rum 1 sugar cube 3-4 dashes of Angostura® aromatic bitters Method: Add the sugar cube and Angostura® aromatic bitters to a Rocks glass with an ice cube. Stir until ice cube has dissolved. Add another 3-4 ice cubes and half of the Angostura® 7 Year Old Rum. Stir for a minute or so. Add more ice and the remaining rum and stir for another minute. Add more ice, spritz orange zest over the glass and use to garnish.

ORANGE DAIQUIRI 60ml Angostura® Reserva Rum 30ml freshly squeezed lime juice 30ml orange juice 30ml simple syrup 3 dashes Angostura Orange Bitters Method: Shake all ingredients over ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with an orange twist or dehydrated orange wheel.

A SIP IN TIME

IN-spire

Cider, ales and wassails, Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller explore London’s history in drinks

BLACKSMI THS ARMS

24 - The Cocktail Lovers

RED LION

IN-spire

While it’s impossible to list every drink served in London over the past few thousand years, or even to pick out all the highlights, it’s always worth delving into the city’s liquid history.

As London drank, so drank the world from Roman times to the present day.

Of course, we also learned quickly that some formulae were more palatable than others. These recipes swept across the Silk Road from central China where the earliest archeological evidence of intentional fermentation has been traced back 9,000 years. By the time they reached northern Europe, ales and wines were already reasonably refined. Cider was already here before the Romans arrived, though the Romans are essential to the history of drink in London as they shaped early imbibing habits by organising agriculture across the British Isles. Plus, they are widely credited with inventing London and sowing the seeds of tavern culture as we know it.

The next millennium was marked by ales and ciders and some spiced versions of each. The most enduring to emerge is the Wassail Bowl: cider or ale sweetened, heated and poured over baked apples. Other countryside beverages included garden and hedgerow wines from parsnip and beetroot to sloes and blackcurrants.

City dwellers might be considered more fortunate.

Imported drinks were surprisingly plentiful in London: rum and arrack, brandy and geneva, plus whiskey from Ireland. Until very recently, the most common mixer in taverns, pubs and bars was water from pitchers placed on the bar.

Brought by sailors returning from India in the late 1500s, punch was traditionally composed of five ingredients and took its name from the Hindi word for the number five – 'punch'. It included strong (alcohol), weak (dilution), sour (citrus), sweet (sugar) and spice (tea or bitters). This foundation was shortened to three ingredients in Sweden during the 1700s. It was known as ‘sling’. Combined with spice (bitters), it became the ‘cocktail’, first referenced in a London newspaper. Drinks that loosely conformed to this complex structure also took on another name –‘cups’.

Cups was also a ceremonial drink that was apportioned for the number of guests and served in a communal vessel passed from person to person after dinner: a custom that still takes place at London livery dinners and other occasions. The first book entirely devoted to drinks – Oxford Night Caps (1827) – contained half a dozen recipes for cups along with punches, negus, posset, flip, metheglin and other lost drinks.

Punch houses were all the rage in 16th century London.

Paintings by William Hogarth during the period depict punches served in porcelain bowls, garnished with a trio of horse’s necks (long, curling strips of lemon rind).

Wine was always popular. Port production was established by Brits for Brits. Sherry was imported as well.

Sadly on the 350th anniversary of Champagne there is no clear indication of French sparkling wine's first arrival in London (the 250th anniversary was widely celebrated in 1916-1917 according to the newspapers of the time).

Right now, one or two conspiracy-theorist types reading this are saying under their breath “Champagne was invented in London!”

Okay, Doctor Christopher Merret did give a presentation to the Royal Society, in December 1662, in which he detailed a process where: "our wine-coopers of recent times add vast quantities of sugar and molasses to wines to make them drink brisk and sparkling”. So, perhaps even Champagne has London roots?

William of Orange – England’s only Dutch king – ascended the throne in 1688, ruling jointly with his wife as William and Mary. He faced two problems: a war with France and a massive grain surplus. He saw domestic distillation as a way to use up grain surpluses and to curtail imports of French brandy. He approached the

Pictured: a gin palace by george cruikshank, 1820 (from the author's personal collection)

Writing about drink history is easy: everyone drank every day, they had to. The number one cause of illness and death throughout history was water-borne pathogens such as cholera, giardia lamblia, dysentery and E. coli. The only known preventative and curative until the mid-19th century was the daily consumption of alcohol. As a species, humans moved from hunter-gatherers to agrarians who brewed beer and made wine. We didn’t evolve to bake bread.

Ancient wheat fields aren’t surrounded by ancient ovens.

They are invariably discovered in proximity to shards of large clay jars: useless for baking, perfect for brewing.

The Cocktail Lovers - 25

IN-the spotlight

CITY SLICKERS In last year’s World’s 50 Best Bars list, London venues occupied half of the top 10, including the top spot. By comparison its nearest rival, New York, scooped only two places in this section of the run-down.

And at the recent Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards in New Orleans – the Oscars of the drinks world – London swept the board nabbing eight awards for best bar in varying categories, including the coveted World’s Best Cocktail Bar title for the Connaught Bar. The awards aren’t all, either. The very bars that are competing with London’s hotspots to top these lists are setting their own sights on the capital. Barcelona’s Dry Martini has opened a London spin-off, and both New

28 - The Cocktail Lovers

York’s Dead Rabbit and Little Red Door in Paris, have run pop-ups in the capital. It would seem the world knows that the Big Smoke is where it’s at.

So, it’s safe to say London is leading the way. But just what is it that gives it the edge over contenders such as New York and Paris?

The city’s heritage is one factor. London has the longest history of cocktails, and as the cocktail crowd know well, sometimes you just can’t beat a classic.

Londoners were distilling gin in dangerous quantities as far back as the 18th century. This has lead to a lot of social history, which Siobhan Payne, who runs London Cocktail Week, counts among the city’s great attributes.

“There are so many London drinking spots that have such a fantastic history,” she enthuses. “You can explore the locations that inspired Harry Craddock’s work, or drink in the bar that Frank Sinatra used to frequent. I don’t think any other city can boast the same.”

Pictured: inside the connaught bar

London is the cocktail capital of the world.

At least, it is if a slew of recent awards are anything to go by, says Ben Norum

WINNER OF 8 Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards

IN-the spotlight

With age also comes stature. Grand old hotels such as The Connaught, Claridge’s and The Savoy were among the first places in the world to serve great cocktails, and they remain on top of their game. These classic powerhouses are incredibly important. Not only are they brilliant places to drink, but they’re also responsible for attracting and training the best in the business – and they can afford to do so, where smaller, independent bars can’t – acting as a breeding ground for future generations of mixologists and bar owners.

Tony Conigliaro, who worked at The Lonsdale before going it alone to launch bars including 69 Colebrooke Row, is a case in point. He reckons that the sheer diversity of London’s cocktail scene is the secret to its success. “You can cross the city and get a totally different style of drink or experience, which is quite unique to London and gives an ever-changing scene,” he says.

But yet there’s plenty more reasons to be optimistic.

London’s cocktail scene continues to evolve, and London Cocktail Week’s Payne can’t see that changing: “I think London consumers are different to those elsewhere – they’re pretty spoilt when it comes to ways to spend their free time, but also they’re really explorative and are up for trying new things. I think this means that London bartenders are kept on their toes, so there’s constant innovation.”

London’s strength draws on the wide variety of people and cultures that populate it

Ryan Chetiyawardana, whose Bankside bar Dandelyan was one of the winners at Tales of the Cocktail, agrees that diversity is key – and not just in terms of the cocktails themselves.

Nightjar’s Stimpson adds: “The recent late night tube in London will fuel the bar scene and no doubt have a positive effect.”

He says: “Because London attracts passionate people from close to home in Ireland and Scotland where there's an amazing hospitality scene, from countries across Europe with their own approaches to food and drink, and from places such as Canada and Australia where there's a wealth of amazingly talented staff, we have an wonderfully diverse and creative set that offers lots of different styles of service and venue.”

London, it would seem, has all the essential ingredients.

In fact, its cocktail scene could be equated to the world’s best back bar. It’s been built slowly over time, but it’s constantly updated. It specialises not just in one style but takes in a bit of everything; well-aged classics rub shoulders with D.I.Y experiments and wacky one-offs.

There are plenty of old favourites but always something new to try, and despite enormous appetite the offerings will never, ever run dry.

It’s a view that’s echoed by Nightjar co-owner Rosie Stimpson. She says: “London’s strength draws on the wide variety of people and cultures that populate it. It’s the obvious destination for people from its old colonies, and its geographical and political position at the epicentre between the US and Europe make it attractive to both sides. The city welcomes immigrants with open arms into its multi-cultural melting pot, and the great mix of cultures leads to new discoveries in ingredients, combinations and techniques.”

Even with a few more dashes of Brexit bitters than people would like, it feels like London’s crown is very safe indeed.

Both Chetiyawardana and Stimpson are also among many in the industry offering a warning: if the sector does not respond in the right way to Brexit, then London’s crown could be at stake.

The Cocktail Lovers - 29

IN-the spotlight

IN-the spotlight

London pride London’s bars shone at the 10th Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award this year scooping a massive eight crystal plates. We celebrate the winners here.

Words by Micah Jodhan Photography: Lawrence Watson

IN-the spotlight

The American Bar at The Savoy Best International Bar Team Clockwise from left: Omar Impagnatiello; Declan Padraic McGurk; Karolis Susterovas; Alice Glayzer; Erik Lorincz What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Erik: London is a capital of opportunities. Everyone brings something from their culture.

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best International Bar Team mean to you?

Declan: Winning the best bar team award shows recognition for everyone from the floor staff to the bar back – what better award could you possibly win?

Dandelyan: World’s Best Cocktail Menu L-R: Jenny Willing; Aidan Bowie; Michael Ball What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Aidan: There’s a massive depth and variety of styles of cocktail bar in London, which a lot of countries lack.

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for World's Best Cocktail Menu mean to you?

Aidan: Six months of stories were put in before we even started to touch liquids and make drinks. The biggest and best thing about it is that it was a full team collaboration – everyone has been a part of it – this award brings us a warm team feeling.

34 - The Cocktail Lovers

IN-the spotlight

The Connaught Bar: Best International Hotel Bar; World’s Best Bar Clockwise from top left: Giorgio Bargiani; Maura Milia; Ago Perrone; Andrea Benvenga What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Ago: London has a good blend of heritage, tradition and innovation.

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards for Best International Hotel Bar and World's Best Bar mean to you?

Ago: When I went on that stage (to collect the award), it was a proud moment, to represent the Connaught, the entirety of London, all our guests and clients, but also my fellow Italians.

These awards highlight the commitment to quality that we want to deliver to our guests on a daily basis. It’s confirmation of what we do every day. We win awards because we're successful, we're not successful because we win awards.

Oriole: Best New International Bar Clockwise from left: Edmund Weil; Rosie Stimpson; Ivana Popovic; Gabriele Manfredi What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Rosie: It’s a melting pot for culture, importing different ingredients, cuisines and styles of hospitality. It creates a cocktail industry that's bigger than the sum of its parts.

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best New International Bar mean to you?

Edmund: The thing with the Best New International Bar award is that you can only be up for this once…and we're absolutely over the moon to win it.

Hawksmoor Spitalfields: Best International Restaurant Bar L-R: Jonathan Muñoz-Iniesta; Lauren Taylor; Benji Davies What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Benji: London is so integral because it showcases an array of what the cocktail industry has to offer. It has everything.

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best International Restaurant Bar mean to you?

Benji: This is something the bar team has been working on for a while. We've been nominated for the past three years, so to finally have it in our hands means the world to us.

The Cocktail Lovers - 35

IN-dulge IN-the spotlight

Happiness Forgets: Best International Bar L-R: Dan Garnell; Alastair Burgess; Rhys Wilson; Rebecca Sides What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Alastair: We get really diverse bar teams compared to other cities. Different people bring with them different drinking cultures, drinks, styles and ideas – it really drives everyone.

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best International Bar mean to you?

Rhys: It’s very humbling. It’s a culmination of everything that we’ve been working on for the past six years. We have a responsibility to nail it every day.”

Callooh Callay: Best International High Volume Cocktail Bar L-R: Simon Thompson; Richard Wynne; Bea Bradsell; Liam Broom

What does winning the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for Best International High Volume Cocktail Bar mean to you?

Richard: We never set out to win awards, but it's really nice to be recognised. We just want to serve really cool drinks to really cool people. So to win an award like this is an amazing feeling.

36 - The Cocktail Lovers

Photographed at Mondrian London

What’s so special about London’s bar scene?

Simon: London's cocktail scene is so great due to its community of bars. We all interact with each other – that inspires us to be better.

IN-style

La Dolce Vita

Italian style comes to the fore at The Connaught Bar, officially the best bar in the world.

Have you ever seen the team at The Connaught Bar at work? If so, you’ll know it’s like watching a carefully orchestrated ballet. Ago Perrone, Walter Pintus, Andrea Benvenga, Maura Milia and Valentina Manca are a mesmerising act to watch both in front and behind the bar and their stage, the opulent Art Deco David Collins designed room, suits their expert choreography down to a T. It's little wonder why they’ve picked up the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Award for World’s Best Cocktail Bar not just once, in 2012, but again at this year’s ceremony in New Orleans. Add to that their crystal plate for Best International Hotel Bar 2016, again at Tales of the Cocktail, and their recent accolade of Classiest Bar in Time Out London Bar Awards 2016 and you’ll understand why it’s the cocktail lovers’ destination of choice. Here they bring La Dolce Vita style to Mayfair.

IN-style

Good fellas: Andrea, Ago and Walter planning the next job – drinks for the new menu.

Photography: Johnnie Pakington

IN-style

Roman holiday Walter wears blue single-breasted jacket, £250, matching trousers, £175, white shirt, £65, all Richard James Mayfair, available from johnlewis.com; navy knitted silk tie, £65, Budd Shirtmakers, buddshirts.com. Maura wears blue tulle skirt, £622, Laura Khoury, available from notjustalabel.com; 3/4 sleeve white shirt, £12.50, Marks & Spencer, marksandspencer.com; navy and white spot pocket square around neck, £45, Budd Shirtmakers as before.

Belt, shoes and sunglasses, stylist's own

IN-style

IN-style

Ago and his brothers Andrea wears white patterned shirt (CP6012) ÂŁ60; Ago wears blue patterned shirt, (CP5993), ÂŁ80; Walter wears purple frilled front shirt, made to order, all Claudio Luigi. claudioluigishirts.com

Promotion

Bacardi Brown-Forman Brands

LONDON BAR PARTNERS Want to know what London’s leading bartenders are mixing up for your delectation during London Cocktail Week? We’ll give you a clue: it’s something downright delicious. Take advantage of the clever, cool and creative £5 cocktails on offer in some of the hottest drinking spots in the capital – all made with spirits from the Bacardi Brown-Forman Brands portfolio

photography: beth crockatt

COCKTAIL WEEK

Promotion

Show your London Cocktail Week wristband at the bar of your choice and ask for the special £5 London Cocktail Week cocktail listed below EAST Want to continue the party in and around the main event in Old Spitalfields Market? Take your pick from this little lot…

Dirty Bones 1 Club Row, E1 6JX Star pour: Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Ask for: Club Row Sour – Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey, limoncello, vanilla schnapps and bubblegum syrup, served with toasted marshmallow Joyeux Bordel 147 Curtain Road, EC2A 3QE Star pour: St-Germain Ask for: Pink Ribbon – St-Germain, Cocchi Americano, Campari and lemon juice LCC Bethnal Green Arch 253, Paradise Row, E2 9LE Star pour: BOMBAY SAPPHIRE Ask for: Aviation – BOMBAY SAPPHIRE Gin, Maraschino liqueur, Crème de Violette, lemon juice and soda Old Street Records 350-354 Old Street, EC1V 9NQ Star pour: Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Ask for: Sour Records – Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey, pistachio syrup, egg white and lemon juice Peg + Patriot Patriot Square, E2 9NF Star pour: Woodford Reserve Ask for: Super Soaker – watermelon Woodford Reserve distillate, Cocchi De Torino and Campari sugar

Sager & Wilde Arch 250, Paradise Row, E2 9LE Star pour: Patrón Tequila Ask for: Avocado + Apple + Chamomile – Patrón Tequila, sour apple liqueur, fresh lemon, avocado and chamomile syrup Satan’s Whiskers 343 Cambridge Heath Road, E2 9RA Star pour: BACARDÍ 8 Year Old Rum Ask for: BACARDÍ Daiquiri – BACARDÍ 8 Year Old Rum, lime juice and sugar syrup South Place Hotel 3 South Place, EC2M 2AF Star pour: Chambord Ask for: Club Chambord – gin, Chambord Liqueur, fresh lemon juice, egg white and raspberries WEST Bring on the sunshine vibes in Notting Hill with BACARDÍ Rum Rum Kitchen 6-8 All Saints Road, W11 1HH Star pour: BACARDÍ Carta Oro Ask for: The Backyard Sour – BACARDÍ Carta Oro, lime juice and pineapple syrup, topped with pineapple mint foam East London's finest. Main image: Matt Whiley at Peg + Patriot; above: L-R: Pink Ribbon at Joyeux Bordel; Alessandro Malavasi at Joyeux Bordel; Joe Hall at Satan's Whiskers; BACARDÍ Daiquiri at Satan's Whiskers

The Cocktail Lovers - 45

Promotion

domenico at cahoots

andrea moccoroni at bungatini

bunga cooler at bunga bunga

marcis dzelzainis at sager & wilde

backyard sour at rum kitchen

CENTRAL In and around Soho or Covent Garden? Check out the following…

BungaTINI 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG Star pour: Martini Ask for: BUNGA Cooler – Martini Rubino, BOMBAY SAPPHIRE, lime juice, Maraschino liqueur, fresh basil and cucumber, topped with tonic water Cahoots Kingly Court, 13 Kingly Street, W1B 5PG Star pour: BOMBAY SAPPHIRE Ask for: Smuggler’s Top – BOMBAY SAPPHIRE, Cointreau, lime juice, Indian syrup and distilled water Rum Kitchen Kingly Court, W1B 5PW Star pour: BACARDÍ Carta Oro Ask for: The Backyard Sour – BACARDÍ Carta Oro, lime juice and pineapple syrup, topped with pineapple mint foam

Oxo Tower 02 Barge House Street, SE1 9GY Star pour: Patrón Tequila Ask for: Southbank Siesta – Patrón Silver Tequila, home made cucumber and chilli shrub, lemon and apple juices Rum Kitchen 443-445 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LN Star pour: BACARDÍ Carta Oro Ask for: The Backyard Sour – BACARDÍ Carta Oro, lime juice and pineapple syrup, topped with pineapple mint foam NORTH North London’s finest, with a stunning cocktail to match White Lyan 153-155 Hoxton Street, N1 6PJ Star pour: Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Ask for: Tennessee Nitro Martini – Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey, Sandow's cold brew coffee and Mr Lyan’s cola

SOUTH Make time to head over the river to dip into these beauties…

Bunga Bunga 37 Battersea Bridge Road, SW11 3BA Star pour: Martini Ask for: BUNGA Cooler – Martini Rubino, BOMBAY SAPPHIRE, lime juice, Maraschino liqueur, fresh basil and cucumber topped with tonic water

aaron wall at lcc bethnal green

46 - The Cocktail Lovers

IN-focus

MR G SAYS

MS S SAYS

I’m a Londoner. It’s where I was born and grew up. It’s my home. And my love for it is unconditional. Bathed in summer sunshine or subdued under a grey autumn sky it’s beautiful. I marvel at its landmarks like a first time tourist and find charm in its most ordinary, obscure back streets. I feel a pulse of continuity from 2000 years of history and an electricity of optimism that comes with an ever vibrant present. It’s where I met Ms S and where we’ve shared the best times.

I won’t lie, my first foray into cocktails in London wasn’t anywhere near as eloquent or romantic as Mr G’s. In fact, it had nothing to do with the taste or quality of the drinks at all. Blame it on the shallow line of work I was in – I rolled in the fabulous world of fashion and photography dahling, and as a result, the bars I hung out in were based purely on style.

My love of cocktails was born here too. When I finally had a proper job it was to the American Bar at The Savoy that I headed to order my first ever Dry Martini. I like to think that it was Peter Dorelli who served me back then (he assures me it was). And over the years I found myself following a trail of bars; Fred’s Club, Soho Brasserie, Match Bar, Detroit, The Player as I got to know the man whose DNA ran through them, Dick Bradsell. Flowing through my London life has been a succession of good times and great drinks.

And by style, I don’t mean five-star as in the American Bar at The Savoy or The Stafford hotel kind of style, this was about glamour of a distinctly glitzy, modern kind. My set was about conspicuous consumption, striking a pose, frozen Banana Daiquiri in hand, in the likes of Zanzibar, Peppermint Park and Coconut Grove on the bar front, and partying in places like Club For Heroes and the Mudd Club after. And like most things driven by fashion, none of them are around today, sigh… what were the drinks like? Who knows? Who cares? This was London in the 1980s and I was having too good a time to notice.

In recent years I’ve also been lucky enough to experience many amazing bars around the world. In them I’ve met some wonderful people. And something I hear from them over and over again is admiration for the cocktail culture of London. It’s the place, they say, that they look to for inspiration, the place they measure themselves against and it’s the destination they all want to get to.

Every time I hear this I’m proud and humble.

The difference now is that cocktails are a huge part of London lifestyle whether you actively seek them out or not. Wherever you are in the capital, not just Mayfair, Shoreditch, Notting Hill and Soho, but in areas where even the locals were previously scared to hang, like Bethnal Green, deepest, darkest Hackney, Peckham and Battersea, you’re never more than a few steps away from a well-mixed drink.

What also makes me proud and humble is the sense of community that our city engenders. I was talking recently with a bartending friend of Mexican origin. She was extolling the many virtues of the London bar scene. What touched me most though was how she referred to me, herself and the people we were discussing, as “us Londoners”. It’s always been one of our strengths. People come to our city from all over the world and they bring with them cuisine, style, music and all sorts of other creativity, including their drinking and hospitality culture. Right now the London bar scene is like a funky, creative, alternative, stylish, good times and flavour driven United Nations.

Of course you’d expect something decent from any establishment that calls itself a cocktail bar, but they appear in less obvious places, from funky burger joints and pop-up street food festivals to seemingly humble cafés and, of course, these days no hotel worth a single star rating would dream of opening without some kind of cocktail offering. They’re even at it in our local Waterstones bookshop as well as the Oasis fashion store next door…

Any type of vibe, any style of venue and any kind of delicious drink, I can fulfil all of my cocktail desires here. And, along with my Mexican friend and the countless other people who have travelled here, I feel extraordinarily lucky to call this city home. We’re all Londoners and we’ve got a lot to be proud of, not least our extraordinary cocktail culture.

Does that mean London is a city of soaks? Not a bit of it, if anything the sheer diversity of places we have to drink in makes us more discerning about our choices. And I haven't even spoken about the creativity of the bartenders we nurture in our capital… this is why London Cocktail Week gets bigger and better each year – it showcases the extraordinary talent on offer and quenches the thirst for knowledge of those who want to drink better. It's a win-win all round

The Cocktail Lovers - 53

IN-dependent spirits

What is the biggest modern day misconception about tea that you come across?

That tea is an ancient British tradition. Teabags were invented in the US and in 1968 only 3% of British households used them. We were once famous for seeking out the best tea in the world – we’d spend more of our incomes on tea than booze. Then World War Two came and tea importing was in jeopardy. The government took over supply and it became government issue, bought for bulk not quality and rationed. You didn’t have a choice.

But tea is no longer rationed and there is a cornucopia of amazing flavour out there to explore.

In cocktails the biggest misconception is that making a syrup (a hot tea infusion with sugar) is the best way to use tea. But the sugar won’t keep the flavour stable.

Hot infused tea will oxidise rapidly – after 20 minutes you can taste the flavour degrading. An alcohol infusion, well strained, is stable indefinitely.

What tea would you recommend going into winter?

This is the ideal time for the teas of the foothills of the Himalayas. My favourite for autumn is from Nepal, and another is from a forgotten forest region of India. In the local dialect it’s called The Adobe of Clouds, I call it Cloud Tea. They are both so elegant, rich, complex and subtle yet deep – everything delicious to soothe and delight.

You’re working with Banks Rum to create some tea Punches. Both traditional tea and Punches are drinks to be enjoyed in groups – could you tell us more?

When you have a large group of thirsty people, you don’t want to get stuck mixing endlessly. A Punch is the perfect solution – long, lovely and pre-batched.

Jim Meehan and I were able to make Punches for a dinner of 60 people in New Orleans recently. We paired a Punch with each dish of a five-course dinner. Each Punch was ready to serve with each course with just Jim and I – history, ease and delicious drinks.

What’s your favourite tea and alcohol combination?

I adore Earl Grey in gin. If you get it right you can really add to the herbaceous notes of the gin and make a perfectly balanced drink with just two ingredients.

Use a decent leaf tea with real bergamot oil, not a modern synthetic flavouring – which is in about 95% of commercial Earl Grey tea. Mix 2g of tea into a double measure of gin for 45 seconds. Next, strain through the finest mesh you have. Stir over ice to chill and dilute, then serve.

Preparing both cocktails and tea involves a certain amount of ceremony. How do you think this adds to how we drink and perceive them?

It’s all about pleasure. You could twist open the top of an alcopop or you could mix yourself a beautiful cocktail.

You can throw a bag in a mug or you can put beautifully crafted leaf into a teapot.

It’s just perfect. If you have a good leaf tea there will be a lot of residual sugars in the leaf (not destroyed by industrial processing). That super quick extraction will dissolve those sugars. It needs no vermouth. No twist.

No olive.

I made the recipe for a finished gin using Earl Grey, it’s called Half Hitch and I’m rather proud of the result. Try drinking it straight over ice rather than drowning it in tonic. It’s super smooth and utterly delicious.

What are your thoughts on cold brew tea?

Whether you are infusing tea in hot water or alcohol you need to control three things:

It’s something I’ve been championing for almost a decade. Take that same Earl Grey tea and cold infuse it for 2 hours, with 10g tea to a litre of water. The result will astound you – and unlike that syrup we mentioned earlier, it’s completely flavour stable for a couple of days.

1. Leaf to liquid ratio

What are your top three tea cocktails in London?

Are there correct ways to brew tea when combining it with alcohol and when having it purely as a drink?

2. Infusion time 3. Temperature (although alcohol is much simpler – 90% of the time you can use it at room temperature) Are there certain teas that can lift your mood?

Tea is a drink that contains caffeine which is, of course, a stimulant. Alcohol is a depressant. Tea and alcohol – well, it’s the thinking woman’s Vodka Redbull.

The Signature Punch at the Punch Room at the Edition Hotel.

The Flintlock at the Zetter Town House.

The one a bartender invents for me on the spot using my tea. Dustin at Hix, Soho always amazes me, or Will at the Pink Chihuahua below El Camion. rareteacompany.com; banksrum.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 57

IN-dustry greats

AN AUDIENCE WITH THE A MBASSADOR

BAR MENTOR OF THE Y E AR, TA L E S O F T H E C O C K TA I L S P I R I T ED AWA R D S On spending almost 30 years in the industry…

I started out 29 years ago, I always say two years BC – before cranberry juice came to England. Back then the Woo Woo was an incredible drink, it was red and didn’t contain tomato juice! Long Island Iced Teas, Margaritas, Blue Hawaiians – people didn’t give a shit about the drinks, they just wanted you to talk to them – proper talk, not about bitters or how you discipline herbs.

I’ve spent the last 20 years travelling around the world That’s a long time studying other people’s operations and seeing the good, bad and ugly mistakes they’ve made. I’ve been filing away, noting the ideas I like, the way people do things.

People often ask me when I’m planning to write a book I do have a book in me but I’m not going to kill any trees until the time is right for me to do so – the world doesn’t need more coffee table porn or recipes you can’t make look like the photos. They can be useful to document a time and a place but they don’t really move things forward.

58 - The Cocktail Lovers

The other question I’ve been asked throughout my career is when I’m going to open a bar My answer has always been, not until all the elements are in place. They are now.

On the Crown Heights affair…

The bar is going to be in the historic Nassau Brewing Company building in Crown Heights It was the first brewing company in New York to lager beer, and have an ice house next door. It’s half a block, with residential property above, a restaurant on the ground floor and the bar in these incredible vaults below.

Crown Heights is up and coming thank you very much Currently 8,000 new apartments are being built within a half mile radius of where we are and there are 140 people living above the site. Hopefully ours will be the first or last place they spend their evening, which is very cool.

photography: doron gild for the chivas photo booth at tales of the cocktail spirited awards

ANGUS WINCHESTER

IN-dustry greats

We’re not relying on anyone from Manhattan to come here It’s a 25 minute taxi ride away. But there are drinkies in the same way there are foodies who will travel for an experience, plus the people in the neighbourhood are families who have moved out of Manhattan so they can get more space for their money, so we’ll be bringing a taste of home to the area.

On the thinking behind the bar…

It has a working title of The Embassy Which was the name of the bar I managed in TriBeCa when I arrived in New York 20 years ago. It’s come together quite nicely as Fabian Friedland owned that space and he’s also the developer here. People think of me as an ambassador and I guess I think of myself in that way too – I’ve always maintained I want to know everything about drinks, drinkers and those who serve them – these are the three areas that I owe something to.

There will also be a section within it called The Residence Imagine going to a party at the Embassy and you somehow get invited through to the Ambassador’s Residence? That’s what it will be like. It’s rather like the mythical figure behind Trailer Happiness in London…

He was a 1950-60s bachelor who liked tiki cocktails and enjoyed entertaining. Here the ambassador likes entertaining and has a thing for fine alcohol. We’ll have things like Martini Mondays and cocktail flights. We’re also thinking about a Spirit Bank. More details to follow.

The drinks list will be discerningly collective, not disconcertingly large

The idea of The Embassy allows me to bring in different tastes and experiences Take Germany for instance. We can have nights where we serve things like Steinhäger (a type of German gin) and Rumple Minze (German-style liqueur brand) to teach people there’s more to Germany than they might think.

On his role in the set-up…

My role won’t be hanging out and making cocktails But I’ll be there and visible for as long as I’m needed to be. It’s like being a parent, you instil confidence in your children, then step back and let them go from there. I want to empower and mentor.

I’ve always maintained I want to know everything about drinks, drinkers and those who serve them This place is not going to be about me It’s not a Salvatore at Fifty. I’m putting the elements into place and if I die six months later it can still run successfully and be replicated without me. I want it to be good for the community; the people who work and drink there.

On the business of hospitality…

No one needs 22 gins behind the bar, that just puts pressure on the business which reflects on the staff.

Again, at Trailer Happiness we selected five of each spirit. We chose the drinks because theoretically we were the experts, our guests trusted us to make that choice.

We’ll only serve classic cocktails and we won’t have a huge, expensive list.

Hospitality is really simple

I’m sceptical of signature drinks

A bartender who knows more about mash bills than jokes is not a good bartender. Sasha Petraske always said his product knowledge was so tiny, you don’t need to know why your bourbon tastes like it does, you just need to know what it tastes like. These days there’s too much focus on the product.

They may be wonderful but they’re infinitely forgettable and are they better than the classics? Not really.

I’d like to have a sunken bar in The Residence The idea would be for guests to sit in armchairs, Japanese style, at the bar. It’s a slightly ballsy move as no one in New York does it. And if it goes wrong you can’t really pretend it didn’t happen – you’re left with a sunken bar!

The Embassy will be populist, more egalitarian Being in a brewery I’m fascinated by the concept of tank beers, which you’re seeing more and more of in Europe.

This is where the beer is shipped 500 litres at a time directly from the brewery into a tank in your bar, so the beer is unpasteurised, it’s like drinking it in the brewery.

So beer, probably just mixed drinks and simple cocktails, maybe Negronis or Old Fashioneds, will be on draught.

Make people feel welcome, comfortable, important and understood – if you get it right, hospitality, the generous treatment of friends and strangers, can be a powerful force.

We’re teaching bartenders so much shit they don’t need to know

I like the idea of bringing back the concept of the Maître d’ Not just a host, someone more affable, more guest relations.

Drinks are only a small component of the bar; overall it’s about the experience The two most important things are who drinks there and who works there: nice people, serving nice drinks to other nice people – that’s it.

The Embassy will open mid-2017

The Cocktail Lovers - 59

THE SCIENTIST, THE TWO FISHERMEN AND THE ICONIC IRISH PUNK BAND (Stop us if you’ve heard this one.)

THE POGUES IRISH WHISKEY IS A BLEND. A BLEND OF TWO STORIES. ONE STARTS WITH AN IRISH PUNK BAND IN LONDON IN THE EARLY 1980S, THE OTHER WITH A GROUP OF FRIENDS IN WEST CORK SOME 20 YEARS LATER. TOGETHER THEY’RE THE SINGLE STORY OF A UNIQUE SPIRIT. The Pogues, now there’s a name for you. Some people know it well, after all, the band has cult status and more than its fair share of die-hard fans. Other people, well, they probably don’t think they know them at all. But let us ask those people a question. Come Christmas time, which tunes define the season? A certain Mr Crosby might get a look in, and a couple of boys by the name of Wham. But what’s the one song that’s guaranteed to get the crowd, men and women alike, absolutely singing their hearts out? Fairytale of New York. It’s both raucous

60 - The Cocktail Lovers

and romantic and has been an essential on the festive playlist ever since its release in 1987. Moreover it’s the most played Christmas song of the 21st century, in the UK. A modern classic, this Irish folk ballad is the excellent work of The Pogues and the late Kirsty MacColl.

There’s plenty more to The Pogues tale, too. A few years earlier, in 1982, a bunch of friends in King’s Cross, who had been gigging around London in various bands, got together to create a blend of punk and Irish folk; The Pogues were born. Playing pubs and clubs they quickly gained a cult reputation. A debut single, TV appearances and working with Elvis Costello soon followed. They also had their fair share of ups and downs, but over the next decade they became renowned for the passion of their songs and spirit of their live performances.

Uncompromising, they did things on their terms.

Promotion

Friends, Irish heritage and passion. Hold that thought while we jump forward to 2003. Another group of friends are sat in a pub in West Cork, Ireland. One is a food and drinks scientist. The other two are fishermen. The former dreams of turning his talents in new directions. As for his friends, the fishermen, well, the fisheries business has taken a bit of a downturn. The three of them swap stories, talk about their dreams and their passions and by the end of the evening, they have a plan. They would launch a distillery. Some plan.

Over the next ten years they grew in size and reputation.

Their distillery is based in Skibbereen in the heart of West Cork, an area renowned for artisan, handcrafted food and drink. Cork is also recognised as Ireland’s cultural home for whiskey and spirit production, something of which the three gentlemen at West Cork Distillers are more than a little proud. Importantly, they say their success is built on friendship and passion.

Then the stars, if you believe in that sort of thing, aligned. The West Cork Distillers met The Pogues, or maybe it was the other way around. Either way they saw something in one another and The Pogues Irish Whiskey was born.

“I’d been wanting to do a whiskey for ages so when the guys from West Cork came calling last year we needed to do it! They're from Skibbereen you know, so it's great to have an authentic Irish whiskey from home.”

That’s a certain Shane MacGowan, The Pogues’ frontman, speaking.

And what of the process, if that’s the right word, of making the liquid?

“We had numerous samples over a period of time and we kept changing it until we arrived at a whiskey which we all liked personally and we ended up with the one that's bottled now. Brilliant I think. The best part was the constant sampling and tasting sessions! We had full input on all aspects of the liquid, from the options of whiskey put to us to the quality content of the liquid.

Both, we feel, are the perfect mix which is why we put our name on it!” You can’t argue with that.

has an aroma of malts and cracked nuts, with a sweet taste and a smooth, intense flavour.

Another way of putting it is simply to say it’s the spirit of the band in a bottle. Literally. The Pogues describe it as being a measure of who they are, made with the sole intention of spreading the same raucous joy, not a bad intention.

Look closely at the neck of The Pogues Irish Whiskey bottle and you’ll see a few words. They’re from a song by the band, “I am going where streams of whiskey are flowing”. It’s a romantic notion and one that rounds off the story of music makers and whiskey makers, and more than a little passion. Now, pull up a seat and pour.

And let’s have your story.

ThePoguesIrishWhiskey.com FAIRYTALE OF NEW YORK 50ml The Pogues Irish Whiskey 10ml sweet vermouth 10ml dry vermouth 3 dashes bitters Stir all ingredients over ice and strain into a chilled Martini glass. Garnish with a maraschino cherry and orange twist.

The Pogues Irish Whiskey is available from The Vintage House and Gerry's. For trade enquiries, contact: halewood-int.com BEST WAY TO DRINK IT?

“Straight, no chaser!”

Shane MacGowan

Two stories, one whiskey. And what about that whiskey?

Well, for starters it’s a blend of 50% malt (10 year old finished in sherry casks and seven year old aged in bourbon oak casks) and 50% Irish grain whiskey aged in bourbon oak casks. As for the liquid itself, well now, that

The Cocktail Lovers - 61

IN-formed

MAINS & MARTINIS

RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD

Grain Store Granary Square, 1-3 Stable Street, London, N1C 4AB. grainstore.com Who: Anyone who wants to enjoy some really creative dining and drinking in an appealingly informal setting.

What: An innovative collaboration between chef Bruno Loubet and cocktail supremo Tony Conigliaro, where vegetables are the star of the show.

When: Mon-Wed 10am-11.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 10.30am3.30pm.

Wear: The atmosphere is nicely informal so dress accordingly.

Ms S says: I like the way the menu subtly leads you away from the preconceived notion that dishes should always be about meat or fish, here the veg rules and it does so to delicious effect.

Hot dish: The celeriac mousse tartlet was an exceptional combo of fresh flavours.

Add some truffle if you're feeling decadent.

Cool cocktail: Sesame Martini, with the sesame working subtly in the aroma and brilliantly in the taste.

Mr G says: The bustling open kitchen sets the tone of the place and the bar mirrors it nicely across the room and you see a mutual respect between the teams.

Hot dish: The slightly smoked version of colcannon with the addition of cinnamon roast shallots and braised hare and bacon get my vote.

Cool cocktail: Cedar Wood Lemonade was nicely refreshing but with a real depth of flavour thanks to the sherry.

62 - The Cocktail Lovers

Mr Cooper's House & Garden

Hawksmoor Spitalfields

The Midland Hotel, Peter Street, Manchester, M60 2DS. mrcoopershouseandgarden.co.uk

157a Commercial Street, London, E1 6BJ. thehawksmoor.com

Who: A nicely mixed crowd of all ages and tribes.

What: Cool and calm, light and airy, Mr Cooper's home is laid out in separate, free-flowing zones including the Study, Kitchen, Wine Cellar and Library.

When: Lunch; Mon-Thurs 12pm2pm; Fri & Sat 12pm-2.30pm; dinner: 5pm-10pm; Sun 1pm-8pm.

Wear: It's smart'ish but keep it casual.

Ms S says: A great way to enjoy the wonders of Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan's delightful British cooking without paying Michelin star prices.

Hot dish: Buttermilk fried prawns, kimchee purée, pear and pickled fennel – light yet packed with flavour, it was an absolute triumph.

Cool cocktail: The Cat & The Devil, a canny mix of Woodford Rye, raspberry brandy and grain soda – what a stunner!

Mr G says: Whether you visit for the restaurant or bar you're in for a taste sensation.

Hot dish: Breaded cod fillet with asparagus and lemon verbena. There are plenty of fancy options on offer but sometimes simple works best.

Cool cocktail: Nature & Industry (above), not only because of the innovative, locally made vessel but because of the way it blends pisco and Mr Cooper's Forest Floor Liqueur – genius.

Who: Those in search of award-winning cocktails and the best steaks in town.

Vegetarians, stick to Grain Store.

What: The first of the Hawksmoor group of restaurants, it's hard to believe this outpost has been around for 10 years. The quality is still exceptional.

When: Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm; 5pm10.30pm; Sun 12-9pm.

Ms S says: The restaurant has been a favourite of ours since it opened – the bar is pretty damned awesome too. Do yourself a favour and visit both.

Hot dish: Fillet steak and mac and cheese for me, oh and don't forget those triple cooked chips. Gluttonous yes, but oh-so worth the guilt .

Cool cocktail: The Marmalade Cocktail is my idea of perfection – just the right level of bitter and sweet, it's impossible to have just one.

Mr G says: The key word here is consistency, the team in the restaurant and bar always deliver on both fronts. It's about classics done exceptionally well.

Hot dish: Of course the steaks are outstanding, however I will say three words. Sticky. Toffee. Pudding. Comfort food of the highest order.

Cool cocktail: Shaky Pete's Ginger Brew has taken on iconic status at Hawksmoor.

And rightly so. This is an indulgence to which you simply have to surrender.

Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk

Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh

IN-formed

WORD UP...

NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS AND HOW-TO’S

Postcard from Amsterdam

Gadamer 50ml Korenwijn 15ml Pekoe Earl Grey Tea liqueur 2.5ml Dry orange curacao 4 dashes Peychauds Bitters Stir and strain into a Nick & Nora glass. No garnish.

Andrew Nicholls, The Pulitzer's Bar Keizersgracht 234, Amsterdam

By Yael Weisberg Bicycles and brothels. Canals and craft beers. World-class museums and mind-bending space cakes. Amsterdam truly has something for everyone.

The Dutch capital has long been a city full of delights and diversions that run the gamut from innocent to decidedly NSFW, but, until recently, a vibrant cocktail culture was not amongst its many fine attributes.

Somehow managing to be both sexy and stately, Pulitzer's Bar provides the perfect backdrop for Andrew’s elegantly playful (and deceptively boozy) creations. Born in Zimbabwe and raised in South Africa, Andrew has been a mainstay of the global cocktail community for more than fifteen years, and he has been a key force in propelling Amsterdam to the forefront. In his words, “there has never been a more exciting time to be a bartender and helping in the further development of this great city’s drinking culture.”

Pineapple Old Fashioned 50ml Zuidam Rogge Genever 10ml fermented pineapple syrup

Suffering a dearth of diverse ingredients and people who knew what do with them, the city’s residents and visitors made do with a limited selection of libations. Then, beginning in 2008, a few brave cocktail bars opened in trendier parts of town – tiny sparkling blossoms of delicate decadence in a city that largely prefers beer and bitterballen (sort of battered deep-fried meat ragu balls – and yes, exactly as deliciously heart attack-inducing as they sound).

2 dashes The Bitter Truth Creole Bitter

A recent influx of expats, used to a certain standard and variety of experience, provided the necessary surge in demand, allowing these boozy little buds to grow and thrive. Now, Amsterdam is well on its way to becoming a cocktail lover’s destination, with hotel bars and restaurants upping their game, hiring professional bar consultants to train local staff and ensure that they remain competitive in the newly diverse drinks scene.

So, what deliciousness does this magical mix of historic quirkiness and contemporary creative gusto produce? Here are three marvellous examples of original cocktails produced right here in the ‘dam, and an introduction to the talented drinkmakers who conceived them.

Tales & Spirits has always had an impressive international bar team and a reputation for show-stopping drinks, so it is no surprise that this Milk & Honey London alumnus is now part of the T&S family. Known for producing pitch-perfect cocktails and sporting a very impressive beard, Lewis is a recent addition to the Amsterdam bar community, and he's already making a significant impact on the local scene. Lewis’ laid back style and incredibly high standard of service are hallmarks of the more mature cocktail cultures that shaped his career – the same style and service that one might witness with increasing regularity in bars and restaurants throughout the city. Coincidence? I think not.

Wouter Bosch, The Duchess Spuistraat 172, Amsterdam

Crossroads 40ml Aprendiz Mezcal

The Gadamer is one of those rare and delightful cocktails that just gets better over time, and the same can certainly be said for its creator. Born and bred just outside Amsterdam, Wouter epitomises the new generation of Dutch bartenders: creative, well-informed, and fearless. He works with a strong international team at The Duchess, and is well on his way to becoming internationally recognised as a rising star in the industry.

20ml Ancho Reyes

64 - The Cocktail Lovers

Rocks Glass Stir to chill and serve in a Rocks glass over ice. Garnish with a strip of grapefruit zest and dehydrated pineapple disk.

Lewis Thomson, Tales & Spirits Lijnbaanssteeg 5-7, Amsterdam

15ml white wine vinegar 5ml lemongrass syrup (1:1) 6 dashes Peychauds Bitters Highball Serve in a Highball glass and garnish with chilli and thyme sprig.

IN-formed The

Cocktail

Girl

MOST WANTED

In pursuit of London’s coolest bars.

Seymour’s Parlour

Cold nights call for warming dark spirits. Here’s a selection of five recent releases that will stave off the winter chill

Seymour’s Parlour is definitely an autumn/wintry kind of place.

Don’t get me wrong, it works in summer too – the cool and breezy room completely belies its charming but eclectic decor. The walls are covered in paintings, decorative plates and figurines, the chairs and tables are mismatched giving it a cosy country pub feel even though it looks reassuringly like a swanky London hotel.

On to the drinks – I started with a Hemp Sour, (lemon juice, hemp syrup, homemade hemp vodka and a few drops of Patchouli Absinthe on top). I ordered it more out of curiosity than a sense I would enjoy it, but it was completely delicious with just hints of the botanicals it contained. I followed it up almost immediately with a Charming (Verbena Gin, lemon juice, silver tip syrup and orange bitters), which was like a Gin and Tonic in HD, simply exquisite.

Craoi na Móna–This recently released Irish whiskey from Berry Bros & Rudd is bursting with peaty goodness, £54.95.

Chivas 18 by Pininfarina Chapter 3–Same exceptional liquid, brand new sexy tin, £54 Angostura 1787–New super-premium blend of rums aged for 15 years in charred oak barrels, £59.99 Stiggins’ Fancy Plantation Pineapple–Intended as a one-off, now winner of Best New Product in the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016, £34.50 Haig Club Clubman–A new expression and new aesthetic for Haig, £45

My date went for the less sweet option, starting with the Kubla Khan (Beefeater Gin, Martini Bianco and Sydenham Laudanum syrup) which had the dryness of a Martini with a slight herbal kick, and followed up with the Koln II (Beefeater Gin, Extra Dry Vermouth and two Koln aromatics, made by a perfumier and added at the table), because clearly this is a man who loves gin and he's also partial to a Negroni. He gave both drinks a tipsy but very satisfied two thumbs up.

In these times where it feels like every bar in London is trying to serve you drinks in increasingly intricate and bizarre receptacles, it’s refreshing to visit a venue where drinks are served in Martini or wine glasses with no fancy decorative flowers and no need for an Instagram moment before imbibing.

Similarly, their bar snacks menu is simple but effective, the most expensive item being the £8 potted shrimp with pickled cucumbers.

I experienced the best sandwich of my life at Seymour's Parlour: a goats cheese and red onion marmalade toastie, served on a wooden board with a handful of rocket for garnish. Sublime!

Tucked as it is around the back of Marble Arch, and with the most expensive cocktail costing only £11.50, this bar is a great find perfect for a quick after work/shopping drink as you wait for the Oxford street crowds to die down. thezettertownhouse.com/marylebone/bar

Copper load of these

Pineapples schmineapples, the brilliant minds at Absolut Elyx have extended their copper collection to include an ace new range of must-have collectibles, including gnomes and birds, along with some shiny barware. But if you do hanker after a pineapple, don’t fret, they’ve got those too, also available in a mini pack of three. Want! elyxboutique.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 65

IN-formed

MUSIC TO DRINK COCKTAILS TO...

Dick Bradsell insisted on two essential ingredients to accompany his drinks in the bar: exemplary hosting and a bloody good soundtrack that covered a myriad of styles.

Did you know: Dick Bradsell also wrote the lyrics to Twist & Crawl, a song recorded

by The Beat…

Here his daughter Bea shares his top 10 playlist: 1. Almost Cut My Hair – Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young 2. Bohemian Like You – The Dandy Warhols 3. Lola – The Kinks 4. Five Years – David Bowie 5. Get Up Offa That Thing – James Brown 6. New Rose – The Damned 7. Get Dancin’ – Disco-Tex and the Sex-O-lettes 8. Wa Do Dem – Eek-A-Mouse 9. Virginia Plain – Roxy Music 10. Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground – The White Stripes

THINGS THAT MAKE US GO ‘OOH’

BUY THE BOOK

Sasha Petraske Regarding Cocktails with Georgette Moger-Petraske Anyone who appreciates the art of drinking needs this book in their lives. Containing a mix of 85 classics and modern variants, reflections from those that he trained, plus the many tips and tricks that the late, great Sasha Petraske was famed for.

Available from 31 October, £19.95. phaidon.com

This handsome specimen from Pura Classe is the best use of a Gladstone bag since doctors got their hands on them. There’s more where that came from too, the Bartender Collection takes in armbands, suspenders and bow ties – all in finest Italian leather. Get your fix at lapa.it

Notable nibbles Salt & Vinegar is the South Bank, Prawn Cocktail is Greenwich and Cheese & Onion is Shoreditch – can’t think why… We’re not saying the crisps are the best but the packaging works a treat. thelondoncrispco.com

66 - The Cocktail Lovers

IN-sider’s guide

Experience Dublin The Dublin bar scene is now more vibrant, energetic and dynamic than ever. Tom O’Brien of The Bartender Project invites you to meet its local bartending heroes

A step inside any of Dublin’s finest traditional Irish pubs is essential for any visitor. Nothing quite compares to the experience of live Irish music, the sound of Irish dancers rattling their feet and of course ‘the craic’, which all centres around one vital ingredient ‘a good pint of stout’.

The Irish pub continues to host a unique and lively atmosphere, not to mention the professional, yet witty and charming bartenders who make it all happen. Any visitor can be guaranteed to fall under the spell of the Irish charm.

In recent years, the drinking culture in Dublin has rapidly grown and evolved, with innovation continuously leading the way. Although the traditional Irish pub will always be at its heart, Dublin now hosts a variety of new drinking establishments from themed bars to craft beer houses, with a passion for providing a premium customer experience for everyone who comes through the door. The expansion of the Irish bar scene has revealed the talent of many bar staff, who now contribute to its success, from the traditional pint of stout to making their own in-house ingredients for cocktails.

Almost a decade ago, cocktails were scarce. The attention of the drinkers rested with local or international beers and worldly wines. Some might have treated themselves to a Sex on the Beach while venturing overseas in search of sunlight and warmth. However there was little call for mixed drinks at home in the Emerald Isle.

68 - The Cocktail Lovers

Exploring the depths of creativity, bartenders all over the country began to emerge from behind the scenes to transform Ireland’s cocktail experience forever.

Given the opportunity the Irish bartender community continuously strives to raise the bar by constantly improving their product knowledge, creativity and professionalism.

I invite you to meet some of Dublin’s most talented, knowledgeable and highly rated professionals.

Meet Gareth Lambe The Vintage Cocktail Club, Temple Bar, Dublin Known as one of Dublin’s leading inner city cocktail venues, The VCC is a speakeasy in the heart of Temple Bar. Having won nearly every award in its few short years in existence, the VCC is operated by one of the most talented bar managers in the country. It's spread over three storeys with chic, comfortable furnishings that are said to be in homage to the golden times of speakeasies, aviators and silent movie starlets. The cocktail menu is compromised of mixed drinks from the significant cocktail eras to present day concoctions construed by the man at the helm and his very capable, creative and loyal crew. The VCC is a must see in Dublin.

Cocktail recommendation: The Dirty Wizard (and pretty much everything else).

The Irish bartending community as a whole is bound by friendship and a passion for the trade. With the efforts of annual events and competitions organised by leading brands and the Bartenders Association of Ireland, bartenders nationally are brought together to showcase their abilities, talents and creations.

IN-sider’s guide

Meet Pat Thomas Zozimus Bar, Anne’s Street, Dublin You could not pack more charisma into one man than in Pat Thomas, bar manager of Zozimus, one of Dublin’s newest and most beautiful bars. Having won Best New Bar in the Sky bar awards only weeks ago, Zozimus comes in as one of the most recommended to see bars in Dublin. The ambiance is modern and easy; the interior is crisp, clean and contemporary. The team are experienced, the service is second to none and the cocktails are some of Ireland’s finest.

Cocktail recommendation: Backbiter

The Poitín revival.

Legalised in Ireland in 1997 after a 300-year ban, Poitín is a distilled beverage with an abv ranging from 40-90%. Having been granted a geographical indicative status in 2008 by the EU Council and Parliament, Irish Poitín has been a growing trend in the Irish bar scene; and if you're visiting Dublin it's worth sampling.

We recommend Micíl. Micíl is a traditional style Poitín made with Irish grain and flavoured lightly with locally sourced bogbean. Honourable mentions also include Ban Poitín, Teeling Spirit of Dublin Poitín and Glendalough Mountain Strength Poitín.

Meet Fergus O’Leary The Liquor Rooms, no. 5 Wellington Quay, Dublin The Republic of Ireland’s first ever nomination to the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards, The Liquor Rooms is an underground, cutting edge cocktail bar led by the humbly inspiring Fergus O’Leary. The bar itself is located below the famous U2-owned Clarence hotel and comprises four areas. The cocktail team train together continuously, studying the classics and collectively designing their next menus, and they were recently delighted to see one of their senior bartenders move on to work with the team at The Dead Rabbit in New York.

TLR has also attracted international bartenders to come work in Dublin creating an exciting new focus on the Dublin scene as a step forward in a bartenders’ career.

Cocktail recommendation: Funny in Sweden (prepare yourself!).

Meet the team.

The Exchequer Bar, 3-5 Exchequer Street, Dublin

complemented by award-winning cocktail menus.

Branded as the bartender’s choice bar, you'll often meet bartenders on their days off enjoying great cocktails in this modern, upbeat, friendly environment.

Cocktail recommendation: Smoked Old-Fashioned.

When travelling to Dublin bear in mind that it's a walking city. The locals are friendly with sharing directions and the bartenders will be helpful in contributing recommendations.

Dublin welcomes you.

Céad Mile Fáilte!

Bars that should be mentioned: Meet Tiago Lopes. Camden Exchange, Camden Street.

(Infusion galore) Meet Paul Lambert. The Blind Pig Speakeasy , 18 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. (One of Ireland’s top mixologists) Meet Alan Moore. Lemuel’s, Earlsfort Terrace.

(Exciting menu based on ‘Gulliver’s travel’s’) Meet Anna Walsh. MVP, 29 Upper Clanbrassil Street.

(Diageo World Class Ireland winner) Meet the team. 37 Dawson St. (All is not what it seems!)

Home to two Bacardí Legacy global finalists, Karim Mehdi and Will Lynch, the Exchequer has been awarded The Best Cocktail Experience in Ireland by the Restaurant Association of Ireland, three of the five years the award has been in existence. The Exchequer is a gastropub featuring the finest Irish cuisine

The Cocktail Lovers - 69

BAY WATCH

LOSING OUR HEARTS IN SAN FRANCISCO

IN-ternational

FOG, RUBBISH SUMMERS, RIDICULOUSLY STEEP HILLS AND THE HIGHEST RENTAL PRICES IN THE US – NOT THE MOST COMPELLING CALLING CARD FOR VISITORS YOU’D THINK, YET SAN FRANCISCO HAS A CHARM THAT'S ALL ITS OWN.

SAN FRANCISCO DRINKS PISCO SOUR MAI TAI TOMMY’S MARGARITA

Why? Those hills provide vantage point for amazing views of the city (not to mention the mother of all workouts). Then there are the sights – the majestic Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, the breathtakingly beautiful pastel-coloured Victorian houses known as Painted Ladies (aka postcard row), the whole of the Bay Area and the windiest (as in bendy rather than blowy) streets in the whole of the West Coast.

IRISH COFFEE

And let’s not forget the relaxed vibe the Bay Area is renowned for. We’re talking everything from geeky tech start-ups and gay-friendly nature, to the laid back whiff of hippiedom (no lie – when we were invited, courtesy of the Bacardí Legacy Global Finals earlier this year, 15,000 people lit or ate something laced with marijuana to celebrate the annual San Francisco pot festival in Golden Gate Park. This is an unofficial celebration we might add.

And no, none of us were anywhere near).

All of this plus good food and some seriously impressive bars. It’s fascinating on the drinks history front too, as the birthplace of cocktails including the Mai Tai, Pisco Punch, Tommy’s Margarita, Boothby and Lemon Drop, and it’s also where the Irish Coffee was introduced to American palates. Add in the fact that drinks legends such as Jerry Thomas, ‘Cocktail Bill’ Boothby, Victor ‘The Trader’ Bergeron and more recently, Tony AbouGanim practised their trade here and you’re half way to uncovering why it’s a must-visit location whatever your preference. Unless of course you have a penchant for sipping cocktails on a beach…

We hardly scratched the surface of the bars we wanted to visit. For more recommendations, see local hero, Duggan McDonnell’s picks, p. 73.

Tempting as it may be, don’t stick to cocktails,

Question: why doesn’t everyone organise their cocktail menus by spirit? They do at ABV. Much like the decor, it’s stripped back, straight to the point, easy to get whether you’re a cocktail newbie or pro and more importantly, it works like a charm.

make the most of the location and take a drive out to Napa Valley to discover at least one of the 400 wineries. Book a tour at napavalley.com

NEED TO KNOW

Much like Britain the weather does what it likes when it likes, so pack for spring and allow for everything else. Layers (and an umbrella) are advisable all year round. A slight exaggeration but worth noting is Mark Twain’s comment, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.”

ABV 3174 16th Street, CA 94103

Simple doesn’t always translate to good though but it does here. That’s down to the team behind the operation – Ryan Fitzgerald, Todd Smith and Erik ReichbornKjennerd who between them have worked in or opened some of the hottest bars in the area. Their premise for this spot opened in 2014 was to create a timeless neighbourhood bar, one where locals can sip on delicious drinks, fill up on comforting but ever-so good food and unwind to a cracking soundtrack. They recently picked up the much coveted Best American Bar Team plate at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards. Sit at the bar if you can, and try the Whiskey in Church (smoky scotch, Olorosso Sherry, maple and smoked pear bitters) – it really is divine.

The Cocktail Lovers - 71

Buena Vista Cafe 2765 Hyde Street (at Beach), CA 94109 The word on the street is that they serve up to 2,000 Irish coffees a day here, which tells you two things: one, they’re famous for their Irish coffees and two: this isn’t a turn up, chill out kinda place. Created by the then owner Jack Koeppler and travel writer Stanton Delaplane, the recipe for this decadent tipple dates back to 1952, when the pair tasked themselves with recreating the drink they’d first tasted in Shannon airport.

For the record, unlike some drinks tourist hotspots, the star of the show here is pretty damned good and the location, positioned as it is right in front of the wharf, is on point too (buena vista translates to good view in Spanish). It’s busy throughout the day so be prepared to stand or share a table.

Smuggler’s Cove

Dinks Fizz and Puka Punch, to their own originals such as the Port Royal (mix of rums, home§made jerk seasoned simple syrup, fresh lime and homemade Hellfire tincture), oh my!

Tommy’s Mexican Restaurant 5929 Geary Blvd, CA 94121 We won’t lie, Tommy’s Tequila is never going to win any prizes in the looks department. Essentially it’s a familyrun restaurant serving no frills, no fuss Mexican food.

Last year it celebrated it’s 50th birthday and without being rude, it looks like it. But you don’t go to Tommy’s for fancy-pants decor or swanky service, you go to Tommy’s for Julio Bermejo’s hospitality, that and his vast collection of 100% tequilas. You also go for a Tommy’s Margarita – their now world-famous version of the original, simply substituting the orange liqueur and replacing it with 100% agave for a more balanced taste – it’s a must.

650 Gough Street, CA 94102

Trick Dog

Not all themed bars are created equal. Take Smuggler’s Cove for instance. In other hands a three-storey bar decked out in everything from mermaid carvings to a fully working waterfall would be a cover-up for the main event – think fur coat no knickers. Here? Not a bit of it.

Martin Cate had a vision to create a space to celebrate what he considers to be the most fascinating spirit in the world – the 300-plus year history of rum. He’s done it too and he’s got the accolades to prove it, picking up hardware for everything including Top 10 Concepts of the Past 25 Years in Cheers Magazine and Best American Bar in this year’s Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards.

As a result Smuggler’s Cove is probably one of the busiest bars in the Bay.

3010 20th Street, CA 94110

Of course, rum is the star here, with everything from new releases, vintage bottles, rare finds and specially created blends – either for sipping or mixed into one of the 80 or so cocktails on the list. And what a list… rum through the ages including Rum Flip, Grog and Daisy De Santiago to traditional rum drinks such as a Banana Daiquiri, tiki drinks from legendary bars such as Hinky

72 - The Cocktail Lovers

It’s true, Trick Dog really is as good as the hype. Not in a pretentious way, it’s purely about the good-times vibe.

The fun starts with the ever-inventive menus – currently a Presidential Campaign with cocktails including I am not a crook (Tapatio Reposado Tequila, peach, garam masala, soda and lime) and Morning in America (Absolut Vodka, Tempus Fugit Kina, grapefuit, vanilla, marjoram and lime). Check out the website which opens with a video for a drive to “Turn the White House into the Dog House, Trick Dog for President!” It’s cool, clever and kooky touches like these that have earned Josh Harris, Jason Henton, Scott Baird and the team huge accolades and keep the crowds flocking.

We visited on a Friday night, so we witnessed it in full-on party mode. With crowds of this level, it could have been carnage behind the bar but, as far as we could see, the team didn’t even break sweat. Don’t ask us what we had though (it was a very good night) but we do remember remarking on how good they were…

IN-ternational

Whitechapel 600 Polk Street, CA 94102

Local heroes Recommended by Duggan McDonnell, San Francisco bartender, author and pisco importer

Could Martin Cate open a regular bar, one that offered a mishmash of spirits? Possibly. But where would the fun, the research, the painstaking attention-to-detail be in that?

For his second homage to a single spirit he’s zoned in on gin, and for someone who likes to create a bar like a film set, there could only really be one city to place it in.

London. More specifically, Whitechapel…

The scene for this is a secret gin clubhouse in a London Underground station, circa 1890. Cate, together with designer Ignacio ‘Notch’ Gonzalez and former bar manager at Smuggler’s Cove, Alex Smith, have clearly enjoyed every minute of its conception – from the sourcing of authentic railway tiles to the commissioning of the bell for ‘last orders’ from the Whitechapel Bell Foundry.

On to the drinks. Like Smuggler’s Cove, the menu guides the drinker on a journey of gin’s history, taking in Punches and Bowls, Kopstootje (genever and a side of beer), Lost and Forgotten recipes like the London Buck (gin, ginger beer and lemon), and on to Whitechapel Original Cocktails including Holmes Bonfire (No. 3 Gin, Bols Genever, salted liquorice liqueur, toasted orgeat, egg white and lemon). There are Popular Classics, 22 odes to the Martini, six G&Ts and over 200 gins for guests to try.

Not a fan of juniper-based cocktails? Tough. The only other option is wine or locally brewed beer.

“In San Francisco, long a cocktail lovers idyll, the metamorphosis wherein every single restaurant opening features a cocktail programme curated by a superstar has gone beyond the stratosphere.

There’s so many damned barstools to sit on, backbars chock with thousands of spirits, Japanese jiggers littering bartops, it can be difficult to mine the gold through the unending openings, the constant barrage of media announcing the City’s newest, best cocktail. I’m offering a tidy list of mixology dens one can count on, now and into the future.”

NORTH BEACH Comstock Saloon, 155 Columbus Avenue, CA 94133 Tosca Cafe, 242 Columbus Avenue, CA 94133 15 Romolo, The Basque Hotel, 15 Romolo Place, CA 94133 UNION SQUARE/POLK Benjamin Cooper, 398 Geary Street (corner of Mason and Geary), CA 94102 Burritt Room, Mystic Hotel by Charlie Palmer, 417 Stockton Street, CA 94108 Pacific Cocktail Haven, 580 Sutter Street, CA 94103 Bourbon & Branch, 501 Jones Street, CA 94102 1760, 1760 Polk Street, CA 94109 SOMA/MISSION Forgery, 1525 Mission Street, CA 94103 Bar Agricole, 355 11th Street, (between Folsom and Harrison), CA 94103

For a fascinating insight into San Francisco’s drinking, past and present, including recipes, read Duggan McDonnell’s Drinking The Devil’s Acre – a love letter from San Francisco and her cocktails, published by Chronicle Books.

With thanks to BACARDÍ Legacy and Camper English.

The Cocktail Lovers - 73

IN-vite only

SNAPSHOT: 1.

The Chivas Photo Booth, backstage at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards

5.

2.

6.

3.

9.

8.

7.

1. Best International Bartender of the Year – Hidetsugu Ueno

4. Best International Brand Ambassador – Max Warner (Chivas)

7. Best American Hotel Bar – The Elephant Bar at The NoMad

2. Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication – The Cocktail Lovers

5. Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards hosts Simon Ford and Aisha Taylor

8. Best American Brand Ambassador – Colin Asare-Appiah (BACARDÍ)

3. Best American Bartender of the Year and Best Cocktail & Spirits Writer – Jeffrey Morgenthaler

6. Best New Cocktail & Bartending Book – The Dead Rabbit Drinks Manual, The Dead Rabbit

9. Best American Restaurant Bar – Saxon & Parole

74 - The Cocktail Lovers

Photography: doron gild

4.