ISSUE 24
SUMMER 2017
ISSN 2052 0603
THE ASIA ISSUE
Who to know, where to go and what to drink in: Singapore, China, Bali, Seoul, Hong Kong, Tokyo, The Philippines and Thailand…
- Photos: Fotolia
PUT A SPELL ON YOUR COCKTAIL
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www.giffard.com GIFFARD – 49240 Avrillé (Angers) - FRANCE / Tel: + 33 2 41 1885 00 – contact@giffard.com
P S S S S T ! CAN WE TAKE A MOMENT
TO TALK
ABOUT
THE BA R SCENE IN
ASIA? Well, more than a moment actually – we’re devoting this entire issue to it. When you consider that Asia is the most populous continent, covering a whopping 44.58 million km2, our tiny gesture hardly does the region justice.
There’s a reason why an increasing number of the world’s greatest bartenders are packing up and heading over to this part of the world. It’s young, it’s fresh, it’s vibrant and the weather takes some beating, plus and it’s a big plus, there’s investment. And the potential for huge growth. As Chris Lowder, a US drinks guru now based in Shanghai says, “If each of China’s adult population were to purchase just one 70ml bottle of spirit each, it would be 33 times Beefeater Gin’s global sales this year.” And Beefeater ain’t small fry that's for sure. We’ve unwrapped the people to know, places to go and of course, what to drink and where in Singapore, Hong Kong, China, Tokyo, Bali, The Philippines, Seoul and Thailand. And there are plenty more gems where those came from. Watch out for part two…
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
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The Cocktail Lovers - 3
THE DRINKS PACKAGE Unwrapping the layers of Asia's growing cocktail scene
12.
In the hotseat – David Cordoba
26.
Portfolio Director at Proof & Company, Singapore
16.
What's all the fuss about Asia?
We find out from Theo Watt, founder of DRiNK Magazine, who's been documenting the region's growth for the past 10 years
Singapore slingers
How Singapore became the most exciting cocktail destination in the world
30.
Going Native
Vijay Mudaliar's inspiring new spot offers a true taste of Southeast Asian hospitality
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A light on the locals
Jane Ryan sings the praises of Asia's bartending heroes
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Oriental expressions
Our pick of new products for the bar inspired by ancient traditions of the East
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Chinese whispers China is booming and its potential is limitless. Chris Lowder puts forward the case
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46.
60.
Hong Kong calling!
What's hot on the Hong Kong cocktail front by Ondrej Pospichal
50.
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen
His master's voice
Masato Sukurai on why he's preserving Japanese bartending tradition by apprenticing under a master
70.
The Philippines is a must-visit for cocktail enthusiasts, Micaela Piccolo tells us why
74.
Photography: Rob Lawson roblawson.com
All Thai'ed Up
Travelling through Asia? Keep your cool with one of the locally brewed beers
52.
Contributors: Lorenzo Antorini Natalie Compton Lena Leo Chris Lowder Micaela Piccolo Ondrej Pospichal Jane Ryan Masato Sukurai
Everything you need to know about chilling, cocktail in hand, in Phuket. By Leno Leo
78.
Seoul scene
With thanks to Speciality Drinks, Gerry's and See Woo London for supplying the bottles photographs throughout this issue
Lorenzo Antorini writes about being part of the first Golden Age of South Korea's bar scene
56.
For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546
Bali highs
thecocktaillovers.com
The lowdown on Bali with Lena Leo
Tokyo tales
Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: James Cheverton Katie Rose Johnston katierosejohnston.com Mark Reihill markreihill.com
Philippines in focus
Beer necessities
Sub-editor: Sally Briggs
Plus...
Cocktails, culture and ceremonies from the Land of the Rising Sun
25 reasons, Bed & Beverages Word Up Coming Up
Printed by Stones The Printers Limited
7 62 66 82
Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover illustration: By Mark Reihill
The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 24 Summer 2017 The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015
The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
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Sharing the cocktail love… Chris Lowder
Lena Leo
Lorenzo Antorini
Our man in China, Chris Lowder speaks fluent Mandarin and Japanese and has worked in the food and beverage industry for 10 years – five in the Asia Pacific region. Here he writes about China, "A country of breakneck transformation." Read why on page 38.
"Life in Asia seems more vibrant and colourful, overwhelming at first but as you get to know the ropes and acquire local friends and meet interesting expats, the puzzle comes together," says lifestyle journalist Lena. She shares her passion for Thailand and Bali on pages 74 and 78.
Former London bartender Lorenzo has settled into his new life in Seoul with ease. "The bar scene here is experiencing its first Golden Age, and the city has real soul! Plus you get kimchi everywhere, 24/7." Read his tips for the top spots in Seoul on page 52.
Micaela Piccolo
Natalie Compton
Ondrej Pospichal
Micaela writes about The Philippines on page 70, "It's one of my favourite places on earth," says the Cognac Ferrand Ambassador for Asia Pacific. "It's full of innovation and oozing with creativity. If you want to get a feel for a booming bar community in Asia, the time to visit is now!”
Californian-born writer Natalie lived in Southeast Asia before going to Singapore to check out the cocktail scene, page 26. "I heard it was blowing up and went to see it for myself," she says. "The hype was 100% justified. Everyone should go to experience the special blend of hospitality,"
Ondrej is a Spirits Evangelist for Proof & Company in Hong Kong. "The region has so much to offer," he says. "Not only do we have many worldclass bars, we are also one of the only truly cross-cultural cities in the world, with a wide variety of influences." Read his insights on page 46.
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REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Feeling fruity, going from floss to boss and hitting the happiness button, just a few of the many things we're looking forward to in the next few months…
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Powering up Forget the fact that this is one of the most seriously cool images of all time, the exhibition and what it stands for is equally compelling. 'Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power' is our cultural pick of the season. Celebrate its spirit
with Mr Black Coffee Liqueur. Pour 60ml over ice and serve with a twist of citrus – strong, smooth and seriously chic. mrblack.co 'Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power' is at Tate Modern from 12th July to 22nd October. tate.org.uk
ANDY WARHOL – MUHAMMAD ALI, 1978. SYNTHETIC POLYMER AND SILKSCREEN INKS ON CANVAS. 1016 X 1016MM. PRIVATE COLLECTION © 2017 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC. / ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY, (ARS), NEW YORK AND DACS, LONDON
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Feeling fruity The last word in tiki chic? Ladies, consider your summer footwear conundrum sorted. dolceandgabbana.com
… don’t worry guys, All Saints have (literally) got your back. Get your pineapple fix in shirt form. allsaints.com
four …and while we’re in Piña Colada territory, it would be remiss of us not to mention Aluna Coconut, a blend of Guatemalan and Caribbean rums, kissed with natural toasted coconut. Oh, and it’s low on sugar too. Available from masterofmalt.com
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Dialling up the orange Not all triple secs are created equal. Want proof? Get your tastebuds around Cointreau Blood Orange. Elegant yet flavoursome and voluptuous, it adds real zing to your glass. cointreau.com
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MORE ORANGEY GOODNESS Make like Bugs Bunnyy! You can go for pure juice or dial it up with C, Carrot Spirit from Boardroom Spirits, made with fermented and distilled carrots. (Tip: we recommend trying the latter). boardroomspirits.com
9. Hitting the happiness button Sure, we could buy a common or garden bottle opener but why would we when we can add joy to our lives with this? othr.com 8 - The Cocktail Lovers
06 PARKING OUR DRINKS IN A COOL SPOT It doesn’t get any better than this. VW CamperVan fridge. gorenje.co.uk
08
Going from floss to boss Clean teeth have never tasted so good. Single Malt and Bourbon infused tooth picks from daneson.com
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…while bog standard milk and sugar goes from okayish to bloomin’ awesome when served from a seriously sexy sugar bowl, creamer and 18K gold plated circular spoon. Want! All on the lust list at othr.com
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Being hair raisers
Checking that our jaws work
Save water and freshen
What better exercise for the cheeks and jawline than chomping on goodies with just the right amount of chew? Get your chops involved with Absinthe with Black Salt or Whiskey with Smoked Salt Caramels, both from jonboycaramels.com
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your tresses with booze. Seriously. Elizabeth and James Bourbon Dry Shampoo gives shine and attitude to lacklustre locks. sephora.com
11 Tuning into rum Take the sunshine sounds of dance hall, reggae, soca, hip-hop and electro, add a Trinidadian DJ, infuse in Puerto Rico with a Maestro De Ron and what do you get? A new gluten-free, limited-edition rum created by Jillionaire from Major Lazer, exclusively for Bacardí, that's what. Available in the US this summer.
12
Shedding light on al fresco drinks
Forget the lawnmower and spade, the only tools this shed is crying out for are of the bartender variety. Add shelves for bottles, some shaker action for novelty value and you’ve got the coolest garden crib on the block. Shed Bar, wickes.co.uk
Following our noses
Base, top and middle notes, layering and the all-important dry down, fragrance and cocktails are inextricably linked. Which is why we advise checking out Perfume: A Sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent, on now at somersethouse.org.uk sponsored by Peroni.
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…which may (read should) put you in the mood for a new scent. Keeping with the booze/fragrance theme, we suggest the beguiling aromas of Whiskey or Gin. Get yours from the Black Collection at commoditygoods.com
SEVENTEEN
Making sure our library is on point
Ding dong, new books a-callin’! Make space on your shelves for three of our favourite reads of the season, 1: Straight Up: Where to drink & what to drink on every continent by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley; 2: The Curious Bartender: An Odyssey of Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies by Tristan Stephenson and 3: The Way of Whisky: A Journey Around Japanese Whisky by Dave Broom, all available through amazon.com The Cocktail Lovers - 9
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Drinking in season
The next few months are all about taste overload. Make the most of the abundance of goodies in season by concocting your own syrups and infusions. Top of the list? Peaches, plums, all colours of berries and currants, peas, beetroot and apricots. Yum!
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Taking our hats off... to the clever so-and-so’s at eto for dreaming up the coolest, cleverest wine preservation system around. Designed to decant, serve and preserve in one stylish package – it really is the biz. etowine.com
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Finding time for a whisky ritual Sure, whisky is like a liquid hug in winter but it works a treat in summer too. Not convinced? Try the fab, new bespoke 200ml whisky rituals available at Swift and you soon will be. barswift.com
21 Mixing up our mixers
Shhh! You know who’s got some serious competition on the mixers front. Liven up your glass (and your palate) with the offerings from the London Essence Co, Britvic, Franklin & Sons, Lamb & Watt and Sekforde – there’s never been a better time for a tonic.
TWENTY THREE Savouring the moment
22. Keeping our cool
No sipping drinks from low rent chairs for us, oh no! Cocktail Hour deserves lounging on something special. Like this Cloud Chair in Merlot velvet. Even looking at it makes everything taste better. rockettstgeorge.co.uk
Maple Bacon Bourbon, Chocolate Stout and Pretzel, Red Velvet Martini – these are just a few of the seriously delicious sounding liquor infused ices from Tipsy Scoop. Available from their Barlour in New York or by mail order at tipsyscoop.com
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Drinking green Fixing up
and feeling sharp. Mikey Enright combines both his businesses – gin bar and barbershop – in Enright’s Original Gin collection – he’s got all your shaving needs sorted. enrightsgincompany.com 10 - The Cocktail Lovers
Rosemary is for remembrance and we’re betting you won’t forget the cool, refreshing green taste of this No. 1 Rosemary Water – it’s like all of your Mediterranean holidays in a bottle. Available from harveynichols.com
IN THE HOTSEAT
DAVID CORDOBA
The man they call Mr Daiquiri talks Asia and the many jewels in its crown
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First off, why is Asia, Singapore in particular, attracting so much attention on the drinks front?
Five years on, how has the company evolved and how has this impacted on the Asian market?
Singapore has always had the ingredients to become a world-class drinking city: a vibrant economy, a “crossroads of Asia” status (like New York and London in their respective continents), a long standing and rich food culture, an openness to outside talent, and a welleducated and talented local workforce. All that was missing was a spark to set the cocktail scene on fire!
Five years on, we’ve benefitted from the amazing energy and positivity of Asia. The same cocktail wave that swept through Singapore is now sweeping the rest of the region. We’ve grown along with the market and see a very bright future ahead.
How much has Proof & Company had to do with this do you think? We benefitted from good timing, as much as anything else. We had the good fortune to set up 28 HongKong Street as one of the pioneer bars in the local drinks scene in 2011. That same year, four or five other great bars opened and Singapore’s cocktail landscape changed forever. Which leads us on to this: tell us the rationale behind Proof & Company, how it was set up and why? Proof & Company was set up to spread the love of fine drinking that inspired 28 HongKong Street. In opening 28 HongKong Street, the team found that there were big gaps in the supply of independent spirits, quality cocktail ingredients and fine barware in Southeast Asia. Proof & Company was born out of this insight.
You joined the company after six years travelling the world as Bacardí Global Ambassador. What was it about Proof & Co that made you pack up for Singapore? Good question, I wasn’t looking for something specific, like moving to another brand. I thought for a long time, and decided I wanted to open my own place, but where? In Singapore I found what I thought was one of the most interesting places in the world. I’d visited several times before making the decision to move, and was almost ready to seal a deal and establish my own place, but I didn’t have enough investment to go ahead, and my dream was shattered.
In Singapore I found what I thought was one of the most interesting places in the world
Who was in the team then? It was founded by the partners behind 28 HongKong Street – Spencer Forhart, Snehal Patel and Paul Gabie. They brought together a talented group from around the industry: Michael Callahan and Joe Alessandroni from the US, Zdenek Kastanek from London and Jason Williams from Australia. I joined the team in late 2014 as Portfolio Director. What about now? Proof & Company has grown quickly to about 50 people, working out of offices in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing. From these bases we spread the joy of fine drinking and modern bars by working closely with clients across Asia – from the Maldives and Bangkok to Macau and Chongqing.
However, I had a great relationship with Paul Gabie, and one day he reached out to me and told me that Proof & Company was ready to make the next step, and he asked me to join them. Was it a difficult decision to make? Yes, it wasn’t easy to leave one of the best jobs that any bartender could wish for, and even harder to leave a brand that I love dearly, but it was time for me to start a new chapter. Tell us about your role as Portfolio Director? My main role is to curate our spirits portfolio, building strong relationships with distillers to establish their brands in the Singapore and Hong Kong markets. This role is a combination of strategy, marketing and guides. I’m always looking out for creative opportunities to activate new upcoming brands and ensure that mature brands maintain a continued presence on the market.
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How have things in Singapore evolved since your time there? The major development in the Singapore bar scene and the transformation of the food and drink industry was the increase in talent coming from abroad. When I moved to the island two and a half years ago, the movement was already in full swing, you could go to a new bar opening almost every week. In Singapore today, you can have a great drinks experience like in London or New York, this city doesn’t have a pause button and it isn’t going to stop any time soon. Part of your job includes working one shift a week at 28HKS, how does it differ to the last time you had a regular gig behind the bar? A few things have changed, like the complexity of cocktail ingredients and the mise en place for the bar that takes almost half a day. The new generation of bartenders have taken the profession to the next level and it’s impressive to see them. Every time I’m in the bar, I have my special cocktails of the day, which are always rum based and I try to bring a fun aspect to every shift, nothing over the top, and of course I do the classic recipes too. What are your three favourite things about living in Singapore? It’s difficult to choose just three, let me list a few more, but in no specific order: • Community: Singapore has a great food and beverage community that I’m very proud to be part of. • Great regional location, you can travel everywhere from here – Bali, Hong Kong, Thailand, Australia… and we have the best airport in the world, by far! • Food: Singapore is the most foodie place I’ve been to, you can do breakfast, lunch, afternoon high tea and dinner in a new place every day for a year and you still won’t manage to cover everything on offer – gastronomy in this country is out of this world. • Transportation: everything from the underground to the taxis, the buses are clean, almost never break down and are very affordable. • Weather: it’s always sunny and hot from 25-32 degrees all year around. • It’s the cleanest and the most secure city that I’ve ever been to.
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Of the many projects Proof & Company have worked on, which are your personal favourites and why? I have two very special projects that I’m personally proud of, and both are related to rum. The first one was a project for Capella hotel, to develop a house gift rum for their rum bar. Really nice project, from the name to the liquid and everything in between, it was a great experience. My second favourite was the cocktail training and launch of Cocorum bar at the Four Seasons Koh Samui. It was a great three weeks with the F&B team, an amazing group of people, and the bar is stunning.
this city doesn’t have a pause button and it isn’t going to stop any time soon For more, see proofandcompany.com and visit 28HongKong Street at 28hks.com
WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUT ASIA?
Theo Watt knows. Here the co-founder of DRiNK Asia Magazine talks about the growth of the region in the past 10 years. I first came out to China in January 2007 to consult on opening some bars across one building in the famous Xintiandi district, which was at the time not known for the best bars. I did that for a year, and then, noticing that Shanghai had a minuscule bar culture, decided to set up a magazine to educate on categories, cocktails, brands, new and existing bars, share people’s stories and so on.
The growth in the Asia market has been fast but evolutionary; involving trial and error. I attribute the change to all the people, both local or international, who’ve put in solid time, to the brands that have invested hard, to everyone who’s said good things about the bars and to all the international teachers who’ve dropped in and left a nugget of knowledge or made the job look cool.
My business partner Dan Bignold and I found each other when he interviewed me for the magazine he was working for, we incorporated in October 2008 and issue one of DRiNK happened in January 2009, featuring Dave Wondrich, John Gakuru, Dean Callan, Ouyang Zian, and more.
Who were the major players in Asia when you started?
It was only in May 2016 that we started the Asia Magazine because we had so many friends and bartenders in other areas of Asia that said they loved it. It also fitted the move Dan wanted to make to Singapore. Since I arrived, I’ve seen pretty much the whole of Asia expand, with Hong Kong starting the ball rolling, and Singapore and Shanghai leading the way after that. Back then there really wasn’t much to choose from. In China a lot of the quality was in Shanghai, near the Bund, like Glamour Bar, or in tourist spots, though French Concession had a few bars such as Tara 57, popping up that had classic drinks, fresh produce and good chat. There were also little known places that had been around back then, such as Constellation. There were no real trends on bar styles or drinks; we were just jumping on whatever we could get to give us more energy. The first and last trend to really hit China was whisky and green tea. For a long time the Japanese style of bars and mixing drinks really took Asia by storm. We’ve seen that also across the world in the adoption of techniques from the hard shake to the stir, and the use of ice tools. It’s a lovely example of globalising bar culture with Japanese style going West and the more freestyle way of working travelling East. In China this Japanese style was a stepping stone to understanding what free style might be.
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In China 2008-9 there was Kin (Constellation), Ouyang Zian (Monin BA), Cross Yu (Laris), Tree Mao (Laris), Jake Prain (still here), Marty Campaign, Markus Bernthaler, and Sebastien Bonnefoi. A little later on Ryan Noreiks, Nick Edwards, Chris Peart, Leon Lee and Paul Mathew made an impression as well. Dean Callan was in Shanghai working for Bacardi, and there was Lee Linford, but there are so many people who have left an indelible mark and helped nudge the industry in the right direction. The other big names would have been Peter Kendall and Sam Jeveons working between Taiwan, China and Hong Kong, as well as Michael Callahan in Singapore. Who are the major players now? Proof & Company in Singapore, Hong Kong and now in China – they’re changing things up venue by venue, not just with concept design and know-how, but by pulling the rest of the world in to look at Asia, through the great superstars they hire and getting every bar they create on a list within three months! Why, in your opinion, has Asia become such a calling card for international bartenders? It’s the land unknown. Many western bartenders are naturally inquisitive, always looking for the next unanswered question, the next challenge. Asia has it all. How has this impacted on the locals? I’d like to think in a great way. One moment being a bartender in their city was just a job, now with the globalisation of the bartending scene the Asian region is becoming a melting pot. Companies that own a few bars in the west, or even locally, are looking to drop their
BY J A N E RYA N Asia’s bar scene has exploded in the past few years, with cities such as Hong Kong, Seoul, Tokyo, Singapore and Jakarta all firmly landing on the international bar industry’s radar. This expansion into the cocktail world has seen plenty of big names from Australia, America and Europe moving over to open venues, train staff and shake drinks for the thirsty crowd of locals, expats and tourists alike. But the Asian scene isn’t being single-handedly crafted by western bartenders, and to pretend so would be an insult to the men and women currently pioneering their industry in their hometowns. We’re here to introduce you, if you don’t already know them, to just a few of these incredible local bartenders.
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PETER CHUA – SINGAPORE Peter started his journey as a barback in a nightclub, after completing his National Service and finding himself as a struggling musician and student. But it wasn’t until he joined the team at 28 HongKong Street that bartending became his raison d'être. “My career was pretty much shaped by 28 HKS,” says Peter. It was here that he learnt to use fresh ingredients, make great drinks and take bartending seriously. Peter was also lucky enough to be part of the team when they picked up Best International Cocktail Bar at Tales of the Cocktail, describing that win back in 2014 as “it wasn’t so much that we won something amazing, but mainly that we’d managed to achieve something we never thought this small little bar of ours could’ve achieved, and being the first in Asia to do so as well.” After graduating with a degree in the science of hotel administration from the University of Las Vegas, Peter’s bosses started up Proof & Company and asked if he was ready for another start up adventure. He said yes, and three years later he’s the proud co-owner and head bartender of Crackerjack. “Working in the Proof & Company collective family, I’ve had the immense privilege and pleasure of being able to work with some of the best minds in the business, each of whom have taught me something along the way. From personalities like Michael Callahan, Zdenek Kastanek, Joe Alessandroni, Jason Williams and David Cordoba, if I were to try to emulate a characteristic from each of them, I would be (in no particular order) a f lamboyant, hard-working, dapper, borderline bi-polar, creative, self-confessed alcoholic and Duracell bunny all rolled into one,” he says. Peter describes growing up in his home city as fun, boring, engaging and disengaging all at the same time. “Growing up in a multi-cultural society like ours is very enriching as we learn so much from each other, especially empathy. However, what makes this country safe (laws/rules/regulations) also sucks out some of its soul.” For the moment, Crackerjack is where you’ll find Peter most days, crafting the incredible drinks list, chatting with the kitchen or serving the tables, which are busy from breakfast to closing time. He and co-owner Zackery are also working on concepts for Junior, their little secret cocktail bar attached to Crackerjack. But if you do happen to catch him on a night off, his current favourite spots include:Operation Dagger, Employees Only SG, 28 HKS and Skinny’s for a night cap. crackerjack.sg 20 - The Cocktail Lovers
I’ve had the immense privilege and pleasure of being able to work with some of the best minds in the business
N A OYA O H TA K E – T O KYO, J A PA N Landing on the international stage after winning Japan’s national Beefeater MIXLDN competition back in 2014, Naoya has come a long way from his original passion for fashion design – and cocktail lovers visiting or living in Japan can be thankful he’s turned that creativity, and attention to detail, to liquid. Naoya started out working in Tokyo’s famed Ginza district, known for its luxurious fashion, before moving to Asakusa to work in a classic Japanese style bar. He’s now back in Ginza at MASQ – a bar and restaurant renowned for its beautiful drinks and mouth-watering steak. He sees himself as a selftaught bartender having worked his way up into a position where mixology and creativity unite. Despite working in Tokyo, Naoya’s current favourite drinking spot is Bar Beso in Osaka, although he has many much-loved spots across Japan. As for his achievements, it was winning the Japanese heat and going on to represent his country in Beefeater’s competition that ranks as his proudest moment. In fact, Naoya did so well that three years on it’s Global Ambassador Sebastian Hamilton-Mudge who recommends we get in touch with him. He may have achieved a lot already but Naoya is still ambitious, “I hope one day to rank in Asia’s 50 Best Bars,” he says. masq.jp
I hope one day to rank in Asia’s 50 Best Bars
PHOEBE LEUNG –HONG KONG Phoebe’s path into the industry is one of the more unusual, for rather than falling into it as a means to make ends meet, she actively chose her career after seeing a TV show about a kick-a female bartender. From that, she took lessons and started her first job, cutting her teeth in both a Spanish and a French restaurant. Phoebe is now part of the team at Jason Atherton’s famed restaurant and bar Aberdeen Street Social. In her four years bartending, Phoebe has seen Hong Kong’s industry really progress and begin to involve modern science as well as classical bar skills. “We connect with every part of our drinks to express our story. I still believe a quote which is 'If you have passion, you have everything',” she says. Within Hong Kong, Phoebe loves to drink at places such as Ham & Sherry tapas bar in Wan Chai, Sohofama in central PMQ which focuses on Chinese botanicals, and Mizunara: The Library, a Japanese whisky bar in Causeway Bay. Here she recommends watching Endo-san, one of the top Japanese bartenders currently living in Hong Kong, “His performance behind the bar is always amazing. You can see every step is so strict and elegant, it’s full of Japanese classic style. Sometimes we don’t only enjoy the drinks, the process is just as necessary,” Phoebe says. Her bar manager, Ryan Nightingale, has become her bar mentor – helping her to learn more about where to find inspiration for drinks for more intricate f lavour pairings. There’s nothing Phoebe likes more than to chat to her customers about the art of bartending and her creative inspirations, and her current goal is to save up to travel to countries like Spain, Cuba and Mexico to learn their culture and history. “I want to move to other places to work as a bartender, gain experience and become known for my skills, not only in my local area,” she says. aberdeenstreetsocial.com
We connect with every part of our drinks to express our story
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BOMIN KIM – SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA I want to contribute to making this city, Seoul, one of the famous cocktail cities like New York, New Orleans, London and Singapore with my cool bar team
Introduced to us as ‘by far the strongest female bartender in Korea’ Bomin Kim, of Southside Parlor, has a reputation for hard work, loyalty and talent in her native city – or as she puts it “hustling hard”. Coming into the industry during university she started off as a part-time server and never expected to become a bartender; “Actually I was about to leave Korea to study abroad but I met the awesome, inspiring and hardworking owners and their employees here and couldn’t leave.” Once Southside Parlor pulled Bomin in she decided to ask for a full-time job, starting bartending training after six months working on the f loor. South Korea’s dynamic identity has shaped Bomin’s life and she describes her country as beautiful and dynamic with its open and honest sense of nationality. However, there are still plenty of traditional and conservative values in this part of the world, which sometimes frustrate her, “I think I can handle it well now and carry on with what I want to do and achieve. And I know it'll change for sure in a good way. Korea is where my parents were born and raised and so was I. It's my roots and I love this country,” she says. Guiding Bomin in her journey from trainee to head bartender has been her boss and mentor Philip Abowd, one of the major reasons she committed to staying at Southside Parlor for as long as possible. “He loves what he does and keeps encouraging me and his whole staff, pushing us so that we can get further. He’s a great inspiration to our Southside family,” she says. Her career at Southside has given her plenty of great opportunities, exposure and experiences and her future sights are set on giving back to her beloved workplace. “I want to contribute to making this city, Seoul, one of the famous cocktail cities like New York, New Orleans, London and Singapore with my cool bar team. I'm happy that I'm a part of this amazing bar scene which bartenders from all around the world share together, and I'll stay humble and hustle hard to see how much further I can go. I'm looking forward and excited to see what will come next,” she says. We’re excited too.
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SINGAPORE SLINGERS
PLACES TO GO Never mind the sights, we suggest hitting up the bars. Most are quite close to each other, making for the ultimate bar safari. See websites for details Operation Dagger operationdagger.com
Sugarhall sugarhall.sg
Atlas Bar atlasbar.sg
Ah Sam Cold Drink Stall facebook.com/ AhSamColdDrinkStall
Tippling Club tipplingclub.com Manhattan regenthotels.com Neon Pigeon neonpigeonsg.com 28 HongKong Street 28hks.com
Employees Only employeesonly.sg Crackerjack crackerjack.sg Jigger & Pony jiggerandpony.com Native tribenative.com
TRY
THIS
FACES TO KNOW VICKY HWANG Managing Director of Parkview Group and Parkview Square – the location for Atlas, one of the most opulent bars in Singapore. PAUL GABIE AND SPENCER FORHART
28 HongKong Street’s Sherry Cobbler “It’s proper frosty cold and immensely refreshing with just the right amount of fruitiness,” says Charmaine Ann Thio of 28HongKong Street. “It’s like a snow cone for grown-ups.” 22.5ml Amontillado Sherry 22.5ml Fino Sherry 15ml of house-made modified orange cordial (1:1 orange juice to sugar and 2% by weight of citric acid)
The two former lawyers who had the nouse to set up award-winning craft cocktail bar 28HongKong Street in 2011. Since then, they've added spirits distribution and consultancy business Proof & Company to their portfolio and the whole of Asia's drinking population are all the better for it. Their latest venture is The Proof Flat, a sleek-looking apartment where customers can sample over 200 spirits.
Method: Mix together and serve in a wine glass with a garnish of fresh mint and a fresh strawberry
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IN-spire
'ANTZ'
“I was pretty certain when we opened we would only have 20 bottles on the backbar – now we have 11 rows of spirits. Lots of distillers come looking for us, people bring bottles back when they go on trips throughout SouthEast Asia – we’re a way for local people to showcase their spirits. And we’re still sourcing more stuff ourselves – I was in Seoul recently and found some forgotten spirits which I’m excited to bring back.” says Vijay.
The greatest thing about Singapore is its diversity and here we have lots of people from London, New York and Sydney but there was a piece missing in the pie While trying not to ring-fence exactly where his remit stops (Seoul and Singapore are about the same distance as LA to New York), Vijay says that he’s more interested in local traditions and if a product makes sense from that viewpoint he’ll stock it. Rice wine has long been made in the Seoul region and that’s why he’s happy to have it. On this trip to Korea, Vijay met an old man called the master who spends his days brewing and distilling a rice wine that his family have made for generations and was the favoured beverage of the Empress. Today this is a drink largely forgotten, but one which straddles the line between prosecco and muscat. In Bali Vijay went around home distilleries tasting arrack made in pot stills, again handed down through the years, at the back of people’s gardens. In India he discovered Feni, a spirit made from cashew fruit.
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VIJAY MUDALIAR
“It’s quite interesting,” says Vijay, “15 years ago no one was drinking mezcal – they have no infrastructure or equipment but people call it rustic. Yet if people do that in the Philippines it’s called moonshine. I think it’s just a matter of time before people realise there’s great stuff and amazing spirits in the region.” Expecting resistance to his idea of not stocking worldknown products, Vijay was prepared to defend Native to the city and to the press but, overwhelmingly, when locals stop by for a drink they’re passionate about what he’s doing and believe it represents where the city is right now. When expats and tourists come in, they want to try all the incredible liquids lined up and ready for global discovery. And many sell themselves purely on flavour, the Thai gin, served as a G&T, is always ordered again as a second round – that in itself speaks volumes. Of course, it’s not all about neat spirits, and Vijay has harnessed the techniques he learnt at Operation Dagger (think mixology, science and a healthy dose of classic bartending) to craft a beautiful cocktail menu which evolves as the seasons change and the foraged produce alters. A sparkling sake cocktail starts the evening off while an Indian whisky drink signals the end of the night. Bolder are the cocktails that come in between harnessing flavours Vijay and his team grew up with – mango, jackfruit, wild curry leaves, turmeric, cinnamon and tapioca. We try a delightful mix of Thai rum, with an aged sugarcane vinegar, coconut yoghurt, salt-baked tapioca, soursop and crunchy ants served in a frozen basil leaf. Another uses Indian whisky, banana peel, ghee, mulled stout, vanilla tobacco and ginger. “But,” says Vijay, “we also love to discover what we have not seen. From foraged ants to arrack from Sri Lanka, we only have to walk within the region.” And that’s what going to Native is all about – the unseen, untasted and unappreciated products spilling out of Asia.
CHINA UNWRAPPED
LOTUS
THE FAMOUS HOT POT
EXPERIENCE THIS Beyond cocktails, everyone should find an evening in China to enjoy Huangjiu. Huangjiu is China’s foodfriendly spirit of choice, and tastes like a mix between oloroso sherry and chilled amaro. It'ss made from an herbal infusion of rice wine distillate that’s then mixed with sugar and left to age and oxidize. Like sherry, huangjiu is a diverse and complex category, with different products showcasing different sweetnesses, ageing processes and botanical blends. Nutty and complex, huangjiu is served chilled, often out of a metal teapot. Sure, you can buy a bottle at the store, but if you ask, many local restaurants will offer their own special family blend – the perfect complement to yet another pile of rice noodles smothered in garlic and Shanghai razor clams. Too late a night on the Huangjiu, and you may find yourself on Shouning Lu, Shanghai’s crawfish street. This is a special avenue packed with street food vendors. Of course, you could play it safe with stir fried noodles, but the street’s namesake comes from dozens of carts cooking up one of Shanghai’s delicacies – Xiaolong Crawfish.
Piles upon piles of crawfish are cooked here in a blend of peppercorns, dried chillies, bell peppers and local spices in a blood red sauce with an indescribably intoxicating aroma. The purveyors will distribute plastic gloves with your order and I suggest you wear them, lest you spend the next three days smelling of fish! We can’t talk about late night food without mentioning the king of late night cuisine – Chinese hot pot. Nevermind the cheap imitations that you’ve tried in New York and London; you’ll know you’re eating the real deal when the broth is a meal in and of itself. Chinese hot pot is a communal pot of broth, thick with spices and dried peppers, all brought to a rolling boil in the middle of the table. Vegetables, offal and raw meats are all brought out on lavish platters while you and your friends boil your favourite items and then dip them in thick sesame paste and exotic spicy oils. When the meal gets too spicy, complementary soy milk is served to help cool the burn. Then out comes the beer and another round of soju. Relax… nobody ever remembers the end of hot pot.
TRY
Shanghai Hurricane
THIS
A refreshing and fun cocktail that brings you into the world of Chinese drinking, while finding a way to enjoy Shanghai’s rainy summer months 45ml Chinese huangjiu 15ml passionfruit syrup 20ml fresh lemon juice 8ml honey syrup (2:1) 2 dashes St. George Absinthe Method: Add all ingredients to a footed Swizzle glass. Top with crushed ice and swizzle. Heavily dash a layer of Peychaud’s bitters. Swirl to incorporate into a consistent layer. Top up with fresh crushed ice. Garnish with an orange half-wheel, one mint sprig, an inverted paper umbrella and a paper straw. I will make you this cocktail at Speak Low, Shanghai during my Tuesday night residency #SpeakLowder
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HONG KONG CALLING
LOCAL
FLAVOURS
- Dim sum, dim sum, dim sum! The most celebrated small bites are siu mai, har gao, xiao long bao and crispy char siu bao - Try noodles and stinky tofu at Mak’s Noodle - Explore local flavours at Yuan Heng Spice Company - Try all the food at Yung Kee, especially the housemade Century Egg. Hurry though as Yung Kee are rumoured to be closing at the end of the year! - Experience fine Cantonese cuisine at The Chairman, Kin’s Kitchen or Lung King Heen - Take your pick of seafood places at Java Road Cooked Food Centre - Sample the locally roasted tea at Fukien Tea Company
TRY THIS:
KIT CHEUNG
Regional Bar Manager at Zuma
Owner of Spirit of Spirit consultancy, created Sohofama BECKALY FRANKS Bar Manager at The Pontiac
ANTONIO LAI
OWEN GIBLER Bar Manager Employees Only Hong Kong DRINKS AT QUINARY
Bar Manager at Aqua Spirits ARKADIUSZ RYBAK
Shareholder at Tastings Group, founder of Quinary
- Big Dick at Stockton
SIMONE ROSSI
Vice President in charge of bars development – Shangri-La Hotels
Bar Manager at Stockton and Blue
- The Hobnail at The Pontiac (and their Midnight Special, laybacks of Becherovka)
- Durian Painkiller at Happy Paradise
SERHAN “CHARLY” KUSAKSIZOGLU
SURAJ GURUNG
- Earl Grey Martini at Quinary
- The Optimist at Otto E Mezzo Bombana
FACES TO KNOW
JOHN NUGENT Bar Manager at Lily & Bloom JIGMEE LAMA
JAY KHAN Brand Ambassador at Remy Cointreau CHANEL ADAMS Bar Manager at Happy Paradise TOM EGERTON Bar Manager at Potato Head IMELDA NG Bartender at Blue Bar at Four Seasons Hong Kong DEVENDER SEHGAL Bar Manager at Otto E Mezzo Bombana ALEXANDER KO Group Bar Manager at The Woods Group
Bar Manager at Mo Bar at Landmark Mandarin Oriental
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sometimes when s, il ta ck co ve lo ll As much as we a se Asian heat only an ice cold n you’re in the inte rge with one of the following a beer will do. Rech 3. INDONESIA: Bintang Bir Pilsener (4.7% abv) Brewed from selected malt, hops and water for a mild, hoppy taste. 4. THAILAND: Singha Beer (5% abv) Full-bodied beer brewed from 100% barley malt beer and Saaz hops for a distinctively rich flavour.
1. INDIA: Kingfisher (4.8% abv) The taste of India, brewed to the same recipe for more than 150 years. 2. LAOS: Beerlao (5% abv) Launched in 1973 and brewed from local rice and malt from Europe. 50 - The Cocktail Lovers
5. VIETNAM: Saignon Red (4.9% abv) Produced by traditional fermentation methods with rice and a touch of barley malt. 6. SINGAPORE: Tiger Beer (5%) Singapore’s first locally brewed beer, now sustainably brewed using 100% solar energy.
7. JAPAN: Sapporo (4.9% abv) Japan’s oldest beer, established 1876 brewed in Sapporo. And don't forget Kirin (5% abv), the other local favourite. 8. CHINA: Tsingtao (4.7% abv) Proudly made in China since 1903. 9. CAMBODIA: Angkor Beer (5% abv) Named after the Khmer Angkor temples in Cambodia.
SEOUL SCENE Former London bartender Lorenzo Antorini on the joys of the growing cocktail culture in Seoul 52 - The Cocktail Lovers
SEOUL UNWRAPPED
PLACES TO GO 1 2 3
Gyeongdong market (above): One of Seoul’s biggest markets, it's a bartenders’ paradise, with all its unique and weird ingredients and local products. Samgyeopsal (above): It literally means ‘pork belly’, but basically it refers to any Korean BBQ joint that serves only that specific cut of meat. Visit any of them and eat it all! Cheongdam-dong: It's the area where the majority of the bars are. The perfect place to start a bar crawl.
WHAT'S HOT 1.
The re-discovery of local ingredients and heritage spirits. 2. All the booze that’s recently been legally imported in the country: Angostura, Peychaud's bitter, pisco… and soon, mezcal! 3. Crafted beer. CLASS ACTS AT CHARLES H
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SEOUL SCENE
LOCAL
FLAVOURS
1. Makgeolli: Rice beer with a milky texture and funky flavour. 2. Kimchi: I know, it's a cliche, but in reality it’s a proper staple in the Korean diet and it exists in many different variations. 3. Hallabong Orange: One of the few citrus grown locally (originally from Jeju Island in the south part of Korea), it’s similar to a mandarin and an orange, with a distinctive flavour.
FACES TO KNOW JACKEY YOO One of the ambassadors of the Korean bar scene; Jackey is the creator of Whisky Live and many other initiatives that gather together the bar community. JULIA MELLOR Also known as Makgeolli Mama, Julia is co-founder of The Sool Company, a school that preserves Korean heritage spirits and brewed alcohols.
TASTES OF SEOUL, CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE; MAKGEOLLI; KIMCHI, HALLABONG
PHILIP ABOWD Texan born, and owner of Southside Parlor, a dive Texan-inspired cocktail bar. Phil’s been living in Seoul for 10 years and is married to a Korean woman. He's a perfect English/ Korean-speaking guide and fine connoisseur of Seoul’s hidden gems.
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TOKYO TALES
Falling for the spirit of Tokyo
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TOKYO UNWRAPPED
BIG FISH AT TSUKIJI MARKET
THE TEAM AT BAR TRENCH
PLACES TO GO Kappabashi: Approximately 170 shops devoted to the commercial kitchen but there’s plenty here for consumers too. This is the place to find everything from knives, sake cups and glasses, to barware, all kinds of brushes, pans and anything else you can think of (and plenty more besides). Golden Gai (Shinjuku): Six tiny alleys packed with over 200 independent and very eclectic bars. We won't pretend that they’re ever going to win prizes in the looks department but the ramshackledy look and feel is really part of the charm. How to decide where to go? Simple. Pop your head in and see if the mood feels right – you’ll either feel welcome or not. And with everything from rock and roll, punk and low down and dirty themes running through, rest assured you’ll find something to suit. Most places seat around five to 10 people. Look out for seating charges.
want to geek out, but for pure energy and excitement, just go with the flow. Factor in a sushi lunch in one of the many eateries in the market. Trust us, you’ll never want to eat the other stuff again. Tokyo Ramen Street: Yes, it really does do what it says on the tin. This street at the Yaesu Underground exit to Tokyo Station is home to some of the best ramen restaurants in the city. Buy your automated ticket, take your pick then chow down (slurping is positively encouraged). Bar Times Store: Bar porn alert! Get all your sexy Japanese cocktail kit here.
Tsukiji fish market: Whether or not you love fish, do yourself a favour and check this out – it’s the largest fish market in the world. You can book a tour if you really
EXPERIENCE THIS A tea ceremony: To see the master perform this Way of Tea is to understand the phrase poetry in motion. Expect a few goosebumps and moments of pure serenity as the ritual is performed and at the end of it all, there’s a perfect bowl of tea. Try the Sakurai tea experience laboratory. Cocktails with a master: Forget time, forget everything and just allow yourself to be in the moment, a cocktail made by a master is something to be savoured and enjoyed. Like the tea ceremony, this isn’t a drink that is rushed in its making. Try Bar Kusama Ginza, Tender Bar, Bar High Five. Cocktails with a modern master: For all the ceremony but in a more relaxed style, try Shuji Akiya. Here, not only will you get cocktails made with all the time, precision and care in the world, you’ll also get carefully prepared morsels to match. Also recommended, Gen Yamamoto.
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His Master’s Voice Masato Sakurai extols the virtues of apprenticing under a master
MATSATO SAKURAI
kimono-sewing, and she taught me a lot about Japanese culture and philosophy. So my background was completely different from the modern workplace and that’s what made me want to practice the art of Japanese bartending, to work somewhere where traditional culture is embraced.
I’ve been a bartender for nine years now, I’ve worked in more than 10 bars and have practised the art of traditional Japanese bartending for eight years. Much of modern Japanese culture is very different from the culture in which I grew up. My family are a traditional Japanese family. 100 years ago, my grandfather started a business as a kimono tailor and my family still run it today. My mother is a master of the tea ceremony, calligraphy and
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Working with my master, Mr Kusama, I always start the day with cleaning. Polishing all the bottles behind the counter, the chairs, furnishings, everything. I think this is the most important thing in Japanese bartending. According to old Japanese philosophy, everything surrounding us has a spirit and a god. So as we polish every bottle, we face each liquor and try to understand its character (where it comes from, proof, what the label says, its story and history.) But the number of young bartenders who don’t do this is increasing in Japan now, unfortunately. My grand master (my master’s master) Mr Fukushima started his career as a bartender in the officer’s club of the American Operation Army after the Pacific War. He’s 90 years old now, but still works behind the bar. He’s always calm and has a gentle smile for everyone. Mr Fukushima said that “The cocktails are a common language” and I believe that cocktails can unite us all.
GRAND MASTER YUZO FUKUSHIMA
My grand master started a cocktail notebook in 1947, writing down the recipe whenever he got an order that he didn’t know. In total, more than 1,500 cocktails are listed, all written by hand. I learned from my grand master and my master that you have to put your heart into every cocktail you make, simply having amazing skill, or excellent knowledge is not enough. My master always says to me the moment you feel you’re perfect, your possibility stops growing. A great bartender never stops learning. I love the standard cocktails, in other words the classic cocktails, which never change. I think we have to pass them from generation to generation adding our own special touch. That is the mission of the bartender. My grand master said that when a guest drinks your standard cocktail, they can feel your personality, what kind of training you’ve done. The cocktails are like your personal history. By learning from my grand master and master, I’ll keep their minds and spirits alive. Another thing the masters have taught me is that the bartender is the narrator, not the leading role. The cocktails are always the stars. We must listen to the voice of liquor and ice. So I’d like to introduce my cocktail – The Lost Years (below).
THE HANDWRITTEN RECIPES
‘The lost years’ is a phase that I found when I studied Shakespeare's life, but when I was researching into the history of Chivas Regal for the Chivas Masters competition, I learned that the Chivas Brothers also had a tough time. In the Age of Prohibition Chivas Regal disappeared from the American market, but they overcame this difficult era, and Chivas Regal 12 year old was born. I think that Japan is the same. When Japan was isolated from other countries, a unique culture was born, which unfortunately is being forgotten in modern day Japan. I want to create a real Japanese style based on the American style of grand masters and the old British style of masters. And at the root of this style, I hope that there is the traditional Japanese philosophy: “Respect each other, help each other.” I want to find the meaning of all the ingredients and make it possible to rediscover forgotten things by carefully connecting each story. My style is based on the spirit of Japan that we must cherish, because there’s nothing else quite like it. Masato Sakurai is the Chivas Master, Japan 2017.
The Lost Years 60ml Chivas 12y 15ml homemade metheglin 7 ml Grand Marnier 7ml oz fresh lemon juice Method: Shake the ingredients together with cubed ice and single strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
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B&B
HENRIETTA HOTEL
Forget the boring bed and breakfasts of old, the best rooms come with a carefully curated booze selection in your fridge and well appointed bars on tap. Here are three of the latest… Henrietta Hotel 14-15 Henrietta Street, henriettahotel.com
London
WC2E
8QH.
What’s the story? From the bright minds behind Experimental Group this is the most hotel-y of the three offerings but don't let that put you off. It's full of bright, inspiring touches and consequently retains a funky, independent feel. The details How many hotel rooms: 18, spread over five floors. There are four room styles and price points, ranging from the entry level Covent Garden to top of the range Grand Henrietta. How many bars on site? Two, both featuring a drinks
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list inspired by the history of the area, curated by drinks historians Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown. What’s the mini bar situ? Mindblowing. Packed to overflowing with all kinds of miniatures, including the usual suspects like wine, Champagne and all of your favourite spirits but also some real geeky stuff like Green and Yellow Chartreuse, Kombucha, single malts from the Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Some of the rooms even have minis of the vintage kind. And to eat? Only a destination restaurant from Michelinstarred chef Ollie Dabbous. Expect seasonal ingredients reimagined in breathtakingly inspiring ways, beautifully executed in taste and presentation. Drawbacks? None that we can think of. We love… All of the details. Touches like the monogrammed toiletry bags in the bathroom containing sachets of REN skincare, and the mismatched toiletries put together for quality rather than keeping things uniform. Beauty editors would be proud… The best bit: It’s right in the middle of the quiet end of Covent Garden. Price: From £250.
THE RESTING ROOM AT THE DISTILLERY
THE NAPOLEON
The Distillery
The Napoleon
186 Portobello Road, London W11 1LA. the-distillery.london
9 Christopher Street, London EC2A 2BS. napoleon-hotel.com
What’s the story? Jake Burger's cool, casual and very comfortable three-story temple devoted to the beauty of gin.
What’s the story? Tristan Stephenson and Thomas Aske turn their talents to hotels. They're starting small, with one room but that doesn't matter a jot, it's quite the calling card.
The details
The details
How many hotel rooms: Three.
How many hotel rooms: One.
How many bars on site? Two, The Resting Room for cool-as-you-like classic cocktails in a modern pub-like setting, and GinTonica for a stunning selection of G&Ts, Spanish wines and Spanish-style cocktails with a twist.
How many bars on site? Three. Start with a sherry and a plate of jamon in Sack on the ground floor; step up to the Devil’s Darling for perfectly made classics and end your evening in Black Rock the fab whisky bar in the basement.
What’s the mini bar situ? Bottled cocktails in the fridge, plus full sizes of Portobello Road Gins and cocktail making kits available for purchase.
What’s the mini bar situ? Very cool. Choose from wellsized Aske Stephenson bottled cocktails including Peanut Butter & Jam Old Fashioned, Flat White Russian, Garden Bramble, Revery, Cigar & Coffee Manhattan, Sesame & Popcorn Daiquiri, and/or take your pick from soft drinks, sherry, cider and wine stored in the fridge
And to eat? The cosy-casual The Resting Room on the ground floor for lipsmackingly good roasts with all the trimmings on Sundays and small plates with a range of grills throughout the week. Upstairs in GinTonica, the food follows the Spanish theme with tapas. Drawbacks? No breakfast but who cares? You’re slap, bang in the middle of Portobello Road Market so there’s no shortage of places to grab a bite. We love… The carefully selected vinyl collection and record player in the rooms, the extremely cool selection of magazines and full-sized Neal’s Yard toiletries. The best bit: The laid back atmosphere. Plus the fact that you can learn everything you need to know about gin and the history behind it, then make your own blend in The Distillery. The fee includes four full-sized cocktails, a bottle of your own gin, plus a bottle of the real thing made by the experts. Price: £150 for standard room; £125 for small room; £110 for the gin-making experience. Bargain!
Drawbacks: No restaurant on site for evening meals (although bar snacks are available). Mind you, there are plenty of restaurants nearby – all neatly displayed in the helpful guide. A Continental breakfast is provided via the service elevator. We love… One room, three bars to choose from, are you kidding? If you’re too busy enjoying the facilities, pop your order in the dumbwaiter and your drinks will appear minutes later. Other highlights include filtered cold and boiling water on-tap, plus all of The Curious Bartender books for your reading pleasure displayed in the room. Oh, and there's Alexa, your in-room Siri. Ask her to play music, or tell you a joke and she may, or may not oblige. The best bit: The room is like your own funky East End apartment without the noisy neighbours. Price: From £198
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WORD UP... ASIA’S 50 BEST BARS
Want to know where you should be drinking in Asia? Here are 50 clues… Almost 200 industry professionals from across Asia voted for their favourite bars in the second annual Asia 50 Best Bars list. You can thank them later…
15. Alice Cheongdam, Seoul (Best in South Korea)
1. Manhattan, Singapore (Asia's Best Bar/Best in Singapore)
20. Native, Singapore
2. Speak Low, Shanghai (Best in China)
22. Bar Ben Fiddich, Tokyo
3. High Five, Tokyo (Best in Japan)
23. The Curator Coffee & Cocktails, Manila (Best in Philippines)
4. 28 HongKong Street, Singapore
16. The Pontiac, Hong Kong
37. AER Bar & Lounge, Mumbai (Best in India)
17. Employees Only, Singapore
38. Sugarhall, Singapore
18. Backstage Cocktail Bar, Bangkok
39. East End, Taipei
19. Sober Company, Shanghai
40. Vesper Cocktail Bar & Restaurant, Bangkok
21. Jigger & Pony, Singapore
5. Indulge Experimental Bistro, Taipei (Best in Taiwan)
24. Zuma, Hong Kong
6. Operation Dagger, Singapore
26. 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong
7. Quinary, Hong Kong
25. Bar Orchard Ginza, Tokyo
8. Stockton, Hong Kong
27. Charles H, Seoul
9. The Union Trading Company, Shanghai
28. Bar Trench, Tokyo 29. D. Bespoke, Singapore
10. Lobster Bar, Hong Kong
30. Nutmeg & Clove, Singapore
11. Tippling Club, Singapore
31. Star Bar, Tokyo
12. Atlas, Singapore
32. Le Chamber, Seoul
13. The Bamboo Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok (Best in Thailand)
33. Janes & Hooch, Beijing
14. Gibson, Singapore
35. The Other Room, Singapore
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36. Lamp Bar, Nara, Japan
41. Omkase + Appreciate, Kuala Lumpur (Best in Malaysia) 42. The Chinnery at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 43. Potato Head Beach Club, Bali (Best in Indonesia) 44. Bar d. still, Seoul 45. ABV, Makati City 46. Teens of Thailand, Bangkok 47. Keepers, Seoul 48. Dr. Fern's Gin Parlour, Hong Kong 49. Club Boys Saloon, Taipei 50. The Night Rooster, Bali worlds50bestbars.com/asia
34. Q&A Bar, Bangkok
CA CU AL
BEING SINGLE-MINDED
KITCHEN SYNC
Rich Woods continues his adventures with waste in his latest menu, Origins, where he focuses on a single ingredient. Coconut, with coconut washed Monkey Shoulder Whisky, coconut reduction and toasted coconut fits the Asian theme nicely. Try it at Duck & Waffle. duckandwaffle.com
Joe Schofield, Head Bartender of Tippling Club in Singapore, looks at the kitchen kit inspiring bartenders and their drinks. First in the series: sous-vide: The Technique Sous-vide literally translates in French to under vacuum. Chef Georges Pralus lays claim to bringing this industrial technique to the restaurant world in 1974 while he was working at a 3 Michelin starred restaurant in France.
Vide is a method of cooking where ingredients are placed in a vacuum sealed plastic pouch and left to cook for a period of time in a water bath. The vacuum allows for efficient heat transfer from the water as well as preventing evaporative losses of flavour and moisture. This means you can cook at a much lower temperature without subjecting your ingredients to heat damage. Why do it? One of the main advantages of cooking sous-vide is consistency, which can be achieved by regulating the temperature of the water bath with a Thermal Immersion Circulator. Another advantage is how fast the process is without needing constant attention like other techniques. At Tippling Club we store all of our fresh juices, bespoke preps and liquids
THINGS THAT MAKE US GO OOH
under vacuum. This increases their shelf life as there is minimal oxygen inside the bag. The bags are also more compact than glass bottles and much easier to store within our fridges. At home You can try this technique at home without buying the vacuum sealer and Thermal Immersion Circulator, although the results are not quite as good. Heat a pot of water on the stove and manually regulate the temperature with a thermometer. You can also use regular Zip Loc bags instead of VacPac bags. Just remember to take out as much air as possible before sealing, and don't give up – the process may take some practice! Try this: Cacao Nib Honey 20g cacao nibs 200g honey Method: Blend cacao nibs to a fine powder and add to a Vac-Pac bag with honey. Vacuum seal the bag and add to a pre-heated water bath at 56 degrees C. Cook for 90 minutes. Fine strain into a superbag and store.
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When toasting in China, make sure all toasting glasses are completely full and serve the eldest or most superior person first. During the toast, clink glasses lightly, making sure the glass of your superior is held highest, then down in one. Turn the glass over on the table to show that it’s empty. #asianetiquette
Must visit
Hear ye, hear ye, hear ye! Employees Only has touched down in Hong Kong. Expect signature cocktails from New York, plus specials inspired by Hong Kong, and of course, all the energy the brand is renowned for. employeesonlyhk.com
Have you seen the fab new augmented reality menu at City Social in London yet? Mirage is, as they say, the Pokeman Go of drinks lists. Download the app, point your phone at the coaster which comes with your cocktail et voila – it’s showtime folks! Try
Open Sesame (Monkey Shoulder, Mr Black Coffee, sesame, hazlenut, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, soy sauce). citysociallondon.com
Did you know:
SMALL TALK
Cocktails + dim sum = pure awesomeness. Londoners get your fix at Tea Room and Bun House in Soho. bun.house
Promotion
ATSUSHI SUZUKI, CHIVAS MASTERS 2017 WINNER
Master minds From 15 countries to one iconic cocktail capital city, The Chivas Masters Global Cocktail Competition Final 2017, is changing lives and changing the game.
Calling The Chivas Masters a cocktail competition is an understatement in the extreme. Since it began in 2014 it’s travelled from New York (where the final took place twice) to Shanghai, before arriving this year in Tokyo. Along the way it has crowned three Chivas Masters. Watching it unfold again we saw first-hand how it’s changing the lives of bartenders and, in the process, changing premium drinking experiences. But why Tokyo? “Three reasons,” says Max Warner, International Brand Ambassador Chivas Regal and creator of the contest. “Japan has been a huge influence in the whisky category in the last few years. The best bartenders in the world have been taking a lot of inspiration from Japan. And there’s the relevance we have there as we produce a whisky specifically for the Japanese market, Chivas Mizunara.” Once Tokyo had been selected as the home for the final, it was imperative that it exerted an influence on the event itself. “It’s all about the four Ps of Japanese bartending; Process, Precision, Politeness and being Pristine,” explains Max. “I wanted these to be a guide, a way for the bartenders to put more consideration into what they were doing.” The five days in Tokyo certainly did that.
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Throughout the final it was about so much more than competing. Take, for instance, the people on Team Max. He pulled together five drinks industry heavyweights to act as judges, but more significantly as mentors. Back again were stalwarts Chris Lowder (spirits evangelist and New York’s Rising Star Bartender 2015), Micah Melton (beverage director Aviary Chicago and New York and renowned ice chef) and Dré Masso (former director for the Potato Head Group Bali and worldwide cocktail mentor), joined by Iain Griffiths (hospitality industry pioneer and co-founder of Mr Lyan) and Rogerio Igarashi Vaz (owner of Tokyo’s Tram and Trench). Each also delivered a presentation. Did we say presentation? Make that a master class, call to action or a lesson in life more like. When we weren’t watching them we were watching the fifteen bartenders – engaged, inspired and motivated. Chris brought his extensive knowledge of performance as he explained how to relax and be your real self when presenting. Dré asked bartenders to consider their approach to mindfulness and sensitivity to local culture. Rogerio explained how the influence of Japanese art and poetry made his bars a complete experience. Micah shared an emotional story about his business partner and how it influenced him to create drinks that surprise, delight and enhance the experiences of his guests. And Iain delivered an impassioned plea to understand the minds of your guests and explore the void to create something truly special. Before we get to the challenges and the bartenders’ performances let’s take a look at a few more highlights. Imagine this. You’re a bartender, you started learning your craft in Tokyo somewhere around the mid 1940s. In 2017, aged 90, you’re still serving outstanding classic cocktails to your guests. And doing it with style and a smile. Guest of honour on the first night was Yuzo Fukushima, the epitome of gracious bartending. He makes a beautiful Rob Roy too.
Micaela Piccolo on why The Philippines is one of her favourite places on earth
PHILIPPINES IN FOCUS
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THE PHILIPPINES
TRY
THIS
FACES TO KNOW ERWAN HEUSSAFF
The Mickey Mouse Club A drink that truly embodies the Filipino vibe, take a sip on this refreshing pick-me-up using Dalandan, an orange-like citrus fruit native to the islands, and cardamom for a pleasant kick. 45 ml Citadelle Gin 10 ml Green Chartreuse 15 ml Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao 15 ml dalandan juice 3-4 mint leaves 3 dashes cardamom bitters Method Add all ingredients to a tin and ice. Shake and double strain into a chilled Coupe. Garnish with an orange peel, one mint sprig and a piece of candied orange. You can find this cocktail on the menu at Yes Please in Manila.
Erwan began his cocktail career, like most of us, with a few nights behind a bar in college for a bit of cash that quickly evolved into a love for the service industry. From there, he took on a larger F&B role that led him to places like Thailand and Russia, but ultimately back home to The Philippines. Erwan took his first step into the cocktail world with Niner Ichi Nana, a bar that’s inspired many to take a leap into the fellowship of bartending, with fresh ingredients and flavour-celebrated serves. He’s also the imaginative mastermind behind the popular blog The Fat Kid Inside thefatkidinside.com JERICSON CO A man who shared a similar beginning, Jericson Co, has done wonders for the bar community in Manila. Hailing from Vancouver, Jericson started off as a man who just needed a creative outlet from his day job, leading him to begin teaching cocktail classes in the backroom of a small wine bar. Slowly and steadily these classes grew, giving Jericson the push he needed to open a real concept with its own space and name. DAVID ONG Jericson then met David Ong who shared a similar service philosophy and they teamed up to open The Curator Coffee & Cocktails. Co and Ong are also involved with EDSA Beverage Design Group, which develops coffee, cocktails, sodas and beer, using the best ingredients available to create the finest liquid cuisine offered in the region. LEE WATSON Former Portlander, Lee Watson, better known as The Doctor, has become a leading name in the Philippine bar scene. Known mostly for opening ABV, a speakeasy-style cocktail bar hidden behind an antique elevator shaft, Watson leads a team of bartenders who are encouraged to push the boundaries of cocktails to the locals through unique bar concepts and cocktail presentation. His recently opened bar, Bitters, is already making waves on its promise to ‘cure any ailment with their bitters and crafty potions’.
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ALL THAI’ED UP Exploring rum, fun and sun in Phuket with Lena Leo
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PHUKET UNWRAPPED
unparalleled service, amazing views and high-quality drinks. But be sure to make a reservation. Amanpuri is set on an idyllic private stretch of Pansea beach and lives up to its Sanskrit name – a ‘place of peace’. Head to the bar for sundowners, choose a sofa by the seductive, black swimming pool, relax to the sound of traditional live music, order from the 200-name long fine wine list, or ask for one of Amanpuri’s signature cocktails. The hotel’s new South American Lounge offers refreshing cocktails based on rum, cachaça, pisco, tequila and mezcal, perfectly for the hot and humid climate of Phuket. Fringed by jungle, exclusive, family-run Sri Panwa resort is home to the groovy Baba Nest – a rooftop terrace so stunning you’ll swoon! It’s due to re-open at the end of summer – so get there first! It’s famous for 180-degree views over sparkling waters and the south-east coast of Phuket, with an infinity-edge pool creating the illusion of the bar floating away into the horizon. Choose from the 13-page long drinks menu featuring frozen or chilled Martinis, sake cocktails (Japanese Pimms anyone?) and bubble cocktails (classic Bellini or Aperol Royal with Louis Roederer, Aperol and orange liqueur).
a distinctive Asian local vibe. The most iconic place is Ka Jok See, a fixed price menu restaurant frequented by celebs and fun-loving expats. When the dinner is over the tables disappear and the dancing begins. Khu Lek, the owner, stays away from any advertising and yet Ka Jok See is always packed. There is no sign. Book well ahead! For your taste of the Prohibition era, check out Prohibition Bar. Push on the bookshelf at the back of the bar to access the actual bar! Restaurants that feature good cocktails outside of hotels are: Siam Supper Club and Baan Rim Pa, Da Maurizzio, and Joe’s Downstairs. Siam Supper Club is where trendy locals go for a sophisticated dinner, superb Monday jazz nights and fine whiskey tipples. This is THE place to get your Whiskey Sour on the island. Baan Rim Pa is a high-end Thai restaurant that compliments food with views of Patong’s nightlife, but away from its hassle. Knowledgeable barmen effortlessly mix classic drinks and anything based on your personal preferences.
For hip and trendy places check out Phuket Town: its old streets are a maze of cool shops, bars and cafes with
EXPERIENCE THIS Phuket has its own rum distillery, named Chalong Bay Rum, after its location at the south-east end of Phuket. The rum is produced using a traditional copper still imported from France and 100% Thai sugarcane that’s harvested locally. Cold pressed sugarcane juice is fermented and after a minimum of eight months it’s distilled, bottled and labelled by hand. Enjoy a 30-minute guided tour of the premises, a tasting session and a Chalong Bay Mojito. Or take part in a cocktail-making class which includes a distillery visit and a three-hour fun workshop. Book a day charter on a beautiful catamaran and sail away to the quiet islands Koh Racha Yai and Racha Noi, have cocktails on board, or snorkel, swim and dive.
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ALL THAI’ED UP
TRY
THIS
FACES TO KNOW THIBAULT SPITHAKIS
Try drinks featuring local fresh fruit and drinks infused with lemon grass, chillies, ginger, Thai basil, fresh mint and kafir lime – they really burst with flavours! If you’re a beer drinker, there are Singha and Chang – local brands that can be differently priced, depending if they’re produced for the local market or for oversees. The taste differs, too! Thailand is the birth place of Red Bull. Though the local version tastes flatter than what you might be used to, a few cans can carry you through the night! Don’t leave without visiting the Chalong Bay Rum distillery and trying one of their signature cocktails. Here’s our favourite Thai twist on a Caipirinha:
SPICYRINHA INGREDIENTS 1½ tbs. fine white sugar 1oz fresh lime juice 8 slices of ginger 2oz Chalong Bay rum Crushed ice 1 red chilli Method Add sugar and fresh lime juice to the glass. Add ginger slices and muddle. Pour in the Chalong Bay rum the stir. Top up with crushed ice. Press the chilli to extract its oils before putting into the glass. Stir well and enjoy!
Founder of Chalong Bay Rum, an award-winning spirit produced in the south of Phuket using sustainable methods. VIPAVANI YOTPHON AKA PUI Owner of La Taverna and Pui’s, two low-key places frequented by a diverse party crowd, where wine flows till the early hours and the mood is free of pretence. ANDY TREADWELL Director of Thailand Yacht Show, the first event to feature superyachts in Thailand. He’s responsible for carefully re-building Phuket’s image as a high-end holiday destination. JOB AKA BANJOB POLIN Founder of Job 2 Do, a local reggae and ska band who gained international fame with the 2005 hit Doo Ter Tum. You’re likely to hear it daily during your stay in Thailand, playing in a taxi, disco or a bar. MAURIZIO LAURERI An Italian chef, responsible for opening one of the most romantic restaurants and bars on the island, Da Maurizio, in partnership with the late Tom McNamara. DANIEL ISBERG Your go-to chef if you're expecting A-list guests at your villa. Think Robbie Williams, Sean Connery and the Royals – they’ve all enjoyed Daniel’s cooking and so should you. THOMAS ALEXANDRE The hardest working beach-club host in Phuket, making a visit to Café del Mar a seamless experience.
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BALI UNWRAPPED
BALI HIGHS A guide to the Island of Gods and popular Balinese hangouts by Lena Leo
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BALI HIGHS
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DRINKS
What: The Roasted Manas Mojito Where: Akademi Bar, Katamama Notes: The Roasted Manas cocktail is an Indonesian twist on the Cuban classic and a house signature at Akademi. All ingredients have been sourced from the Indonesian archipelago, including the ceramic Highball that was hand-made in Bali by a company called Gaya. Ingredients: 30ml Nusa Caña rum 30ml pineapple arak 4 roasted pineapple chunks handful of mint 20ml coconut sugar 20ml citrus juice (combination of lemon and lime) pinch black pepper pinch of sea salt Method: Dry blend and pour over cubed ice. Garnish with pineapple crown, mint sprig and dried pineapple. What: Plaga Wine Sangria Where: Deus, Canggu If you’ve tried your arak, rum, local beer, kombucha and cold brew, the only frontier left is local wine. You must give it to the guys at Plaga for trying, because a 150% import tax on alcohol makes even dishwater quality wine prohibitively expensive. Made from imported Chilean and Western Australian grapes, it’s what you call a young wine, mostly aimed at those who need quick refreshment.
FACES TO KNOW MARC RODRIGUES An ex-Diageo exec is one of three founders of Nusa Cana white rum, produced and distilled on neighbouring Java island and sold around Asia. GUY NEALE AND KADEK WIRANATHA Owners of KU DE TA MARTYN HICKMAN One of the founders of Bootstrap Coffee. Martyn and his brother Greg commercialised the cold brew production and introduced special mixes for bars.
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Coming up: Two Schmucks, the hot new all-day bar and restaurant from Moe Aljaff and AJ White.
Opening as a pop-up space this summer to show off the variety of its affordable, seasonal cocktails, then back as a fully operational gig come the New Year, it’s guaranteed to shake things up in Barcelona. For more details see, facebook.com/schmuckordie