The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 30, Winter 2019

ISSUE 30

WINTER 2019

ISSN 2052 0603

REACT, RESOLVE, REFINE

THE PERFECTION ISSUE The Cocktail Lovers - 1

IN-xxxxx

WE DIDN’T INVENT TEQUILA Tequila has been around for centuries, but we took the time to get it right, crafting a small-batch spirit that’s worth sipping slowly. It requires Mexico’s finest 100% Weber Blue Agave, hand-selected and distilled in custom copper stills for a smooth finish every time. We didn’t invent tequila,

The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. 40% abv.

WE JUST PERFECTED IT.

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IN-tro

ARE YOU, LIKE MARY POPPINS,

P R A C T I C A L LY P E R F E C T

I N E V E R Y W AY ?

NOPE? DON’T WORRY ABOUT IT

– NO ONE IS.

So why choose Perfection as the theme for this issue? Simple.

Because most of us beat ourselves up trying to be what we perceive as perfect, particularly at this time of year, and while there’s nothing wrong with having goals, true perfection is unattainable.

Mind you, there are some people who come pretty darned close.

Like Dave Arnold and Don Lee, the two bright minds who’ve created all kinds of wizardry during their respective careers, and at Existing Conditions, the bar they’ve opened together in New York (p.12). Alex Kratena and Monica Berg are another duo who strive for perfection in their work. We have the exclusive on their brand new range of super sexy premium liqueurs and find out how they’ve designed the perfect bar station (p. 24).

We couldn’t talk about perfection without speaking to Leo Robitschek, Bar Director at Make It Nice. He might not say it but the pursuit to provide the perfect environment and service is at the core of everything he does (p. 30).

As for the rest of the issue, Jane Ryan checks out whether there is such a thing as a perfect ratio for making cocktails (p. 38); Yael Weisberg talks to the experts about the perfect temperatures to serve your favourite drinks (p.48); Miles Watson finds the perfect whisky bar (p. 52), and Danil Nevsky goes globetrotting in search of the perfect new bars to perch in (p. 60).

Enjoy the read.

Please imbibe responsibly

Ms S & Mr G thecocktaillovers.com

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The Cocktail Lovers - 3

IN-gredients

7. IN-the know

30. IN-the spotlight

Getting personal, conducting a bar top orchestra and swapping out citrus – just a few of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months

Leo Robitschek, Bar Director at the NoMad and Eleven Madison Park talks about the ethos of parent company, Make it Nice

25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season

Making things nice

36. IN-dulge Just add ice‌

Drinks bottled for perfection

12. IN-the hotseat Dave Arnold and Don Lee

In pursuit of drinks perfection with the boffins of booze

16. IN-spire The details that count

Four bartenders who refused to settle for second best and designed their perfect bar kit instead

38. IN-the spotlight

Ratios: the key to cocktail perfection?

Are ratios the key to cocktail perfection? Jane Ryan gets the measure

42. IN-the mix Ace the base

Get the base spirit right and nail your cocktail repertoire

48. IN-focus

Drinks degrees of separation

24. IN-spire

Perfection in three acts: with Alex Kratena and Monica Berg

Making the liqueur category sexy, refining the bar station and putting the subject of perfectionism under the microscope, the duo have the 'P' word licked

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Yael Weisberg checks out the best temperatures to serve your favourite drinks

IN-gredients

52. IN-focus

Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs

Winning ways with whisky

Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com

Black Rock may well be the perfect whisky bar, for whisky lovers and newbies alike, finds Miles Watson

54. IN-formed Mains & Martinis

Restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food

56. IN-formed Word up

News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front

Photographer Adam Goodison adamgoodisonphotography.com Contributors: Stuart Bale, Isaac Dann Tim Etherington-Judge Vicky Lees, Danil Nevsky Yael Weisberg, Miles Watson On the cover: The iceman cometh: Stuart Bale gets to grips with perfecting ice.

Bartenders can check out Crucible, Stuart's co-working space which allows people to play around with equipment that can only usually be found in big budget bars. It also functions as a full creative agency with a melting pot of talent. Find out more at: crucible-london.co.uk Photographed by Adam Goodison Ice kindly supplied by cooliceman.co.uk

60. IN-ternational What's hot right now

Danil Nevsky rounds up his pick of the latest bar openings around the world

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com T: 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Stephens & George Distributed by Gold Key Media

The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 30 Winter 2019 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY The Cocktail Lovers - 5

Contributors

Yael Weisberg

Tim Etherington-Judge

Born in New York and based in Amsterdam, Yael Weisberg is a senior brand strategist with a deep and abiding passion for potables, as well as a persistent curiosity about the world and its inhabitants. She works with brands of all sizes to produce fresh insights, generate content and cultivate extraordinary experiences. She's also a writer.

Tim is the founder of Healthy Hospo, the first organisation dedicated to building a healthier, happier hospitality industry around the world. Which is why we've asked him to join us as our regular columnist. In each issue he'll be investigating our themes, starting here with Perfectionism (p. 57)

In this issue Yael gets the lowdown from the experts on the perfect temperatures to serve your favourite drinks (p. 48)

Tim is also running 42 marathons in 42 days to raise money and awareness for mental health. Dig deep and donate at: healthyhospo.com/424242run

Vicky Lees

Danil Nevsky

A self-confessed creative problem solver, Vicky is a Londonbased set designer, art director and prop stylist working her magic for a variety of clients including Siemens, Apple, Amazon, Virgin Atlantic Retail Therapy and Highlife Shop.

Her work has appeared in an array of top quality publications including Wallpaper*, The Telegraph, GQ, Esquire, Wired, ES Magazine and The Guardian.

Danil is co-owner of the world's largest bartending social media network Cocktails For You, followed by close to a million people worldwide. In between travelling around the globe covering bar shows and cocktail competitions, he's also a bartender and consultant.

Vicky's talent can be seen in our Ace the Base feature (p.50).

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For this issue Danil puts those air miles to good use and rounds up the latest bar openings – taking in recently opened hotspots everywhere from Shanghai to St. Petersburg (p. 60).

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IN-the know

REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Keeping our pearlies white, doing a Marie Kondo and putting our heroes to work, just a few things we're looking forward to in the upcoming months

N1

Bowing at the altar of Dior See this dress? It was created in 1955 but would still knock spots off any cocktail outfit today. It’s just one of many damned perfect (in our opinion) styles on show at Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, coming to the V&A on 2 February. We’ll be toasting it with something suitably elegant – like an ice-cold Martini served in a Nick and Nora glass, natch.

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams is on at the Victoria & Albert Museum from 2 February until 14 July 2019. vam.ac.uk

christian dior (1905-57), Écarlate, afternoon dress, haute couture, autumn/winter 1955, y line. photo © laziz hamini. victoria and albert museum, london

o

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IN-the know

2

THREE

Keeping our pearlies white

Becoming a label lover

Love red wine but don’t like the tell-tale signs it leaves on your teeth?

Neither do we. That’s why we’re packing this. wineblock.com

Why restrict flavour to inside the bottle, when you can take it outside as well? Have a munch on the label of Vilkmerges Ziemos Elis Ale and get a hint of the taste within. vilkmergesalus.it

four

05

Making mead

Sipping comfortably

Just what you need when you’re chillin’ with your favourite dram of Macallan: an exclusive pair of limited-

Yes, mead! Try your hand at making your own version of this delicious honey-based drink in the two-hour workshops at gosnells.co.uk

edition velvet slippers. These bad boys by Rob McAllan are stitched in gold, with look-at-me accented heels. Say whaaat? robmcallan.com

07

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Spending a penny

Or 709,383 pennies to be exact. This isn’t any old coin, it’s a genuine gold coin embedded with a teeny, tiny droplet of Old Vatted Glenlivet 1862, thought to be the oldest whisky in the world. Definitely one for high rollers. lux-coins.com

Whisky wizardry no 2: What better way to make use of reclaimed barrels than transforming them into a show-stopping bar cart?

This one by Mats Christeen for The Balvenie is a work of art. toddsynder.com

NINE

8.

Collecting a gold star

Putting our heroes to work

…as in the chic Hennessy XO x Opening Ceremony East Meets West Travel Bag. Not advisable for carrying your Hennessy XO on board, of course, but pretty fly for anything else. openingceremony.com

David Bowie, Amy Winehouse, Prince – just a few of the icons on hand to help dry up your barware.

Stars for bars no less. redcandy.co.uk

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IN-the know

10

Tasting coffee in HD Think your coffee tastes good now? Try it in a Kruve cup. Like an audio equaliser, it’s designed to amplify and soften flavour notes for perfectly balanced brews every time. kruveinc.com

12

Doing a Marie Kondo

ELEVEN

…or if you’re a cappuccino lover, make like a barista and give good sprinkleage.

Just don’t let anyone know you’re using a stencil.

Aerolatte Cappuccino Artist Stencil. menkind.co.uk

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and chucking out anything that doesn’t fill us with joy. Making more room for gorgeous goodies like the wine stoppers, corkscrews and cocktail picks at fsobjects.com

13.

Cleaning up

We don’t condone drinking in the shower, but if you do, this little gizmo is just the ticket. urbanoutfitters.com

Losing the guilt No need to remember to wash your water bottle, the Larq does the job for you.

Cleverly self-cleaning every two hours and neutralising up to 99.9999% of odours, this is one nifty piece of kit for 2019. livelarq.com

FIFTEEN Getting personal

SIXTEEN

Everyone likes seeing their name in print.

Even better when it’s on a supercool reversible apron. Order yours from msbartrends.com

Perfecting our G&Ts Great gin? Tick. Cool tonic? Got it. Fancy glass? Of course! Lemon cut just so? Er, not quite. Get yourself a Savernake G&T customisable knife and you’ll be right on point. savernakeknives.co.uk

N 17 o

Turning things round Why drink your wine upside down? Because these glasses mean you can, that’s why. monsterzeug.de

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IN-the know

EIGHTEEN

Conducting a bar top orchestra

19

Who’s in for playing musical wine glasses? Not big, not clever but heaps of fun. firebox.com

TWENTY ONE

20

Rounding off the night

With a cocktail and naughty treat from the Nightcap Menu at The Westbury. Served from 9pm every evening. westburymayfair.com/polo-bar

22

Spreading the rum love Spiced rum marmalade anyone? Join the (breakfast) queue! firebox.com

Letting the bake off be-gin Fancy a GT&C? Who wouldn’t? It’s gin and tonic with CAKE! Get your bake on with the mouthwatering recipes featuring Fentimans Tonic at fentimans.com/bakery

Swapping out citrus

23

Lemons and limes are soooo last year. Grab yourself a bottle of Supasawa and let the five citrus acids add some zip to your glass instead. Bonus sustainability points for its one-year shelf life. supasawa.co

Sucking up

TWENTY FOUR Seeing art in the glass Martin Jakobsen describes his new glass Pygo as ‘hidden imperfection in perfection’. Far be it for us to disagree. jakobsendesign.com

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Laugh in the face of the no-alcohol imposters, we’re going for REAL wine gums. Available in Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot flavours. thefoundry.com

25

JOINING THE CLUB

Just when you thought Louis XIII Cognac couldn’t get more luxe, they go and integrate NFC technology into the decanter to give clients exclusive perks. louisxiii-cognac.com

IN THE HOTSEAT

DAVE ARNOLD AND DON LEE Individually Dave Arnold and Don Lee are revered for their scientific approach to creating outstanding drinks. Together at Existing Conditions, New York, the bar they co-own with Greg Boehm of Cocktail Kingdom, the boffins of booze are dynamite. We caught up with them to talk about perfection

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photograph eric medsker

IN-the hotseat

IN-the hotseat

What’s the ethos behind Existing Conditions?

DA: Our ethos can really be broken down into two things – we focus on the guest experience and our own practice.

We want our guests to have their best experience and feel happy, comfortable and welcome. We’re not trying to shock and awe people, for us everything happens behind the scenes.

We want our drinks to be understandable from a flavour perspective. As for our practice, we’re trying to be our best selves – using innovation that helps us become better at what we do – and provide experiences that people can only have at our bar. We use techniques and technology in a way that’s delicious without being pretentious. We also value employees who have creative input and encourage them to be creative.

DL: Our long-term success is based on the people that come out of our establishments. Dave and I are both selfmotivated, life-long learners and we like surrounding ourselves with people who are curious about the world and try to staff our restaurant in that way. Curious people attract other curious people – we want to create an environment where curious people have the resources to explore their creativity and the opportunity to educate themselves and others.

Dave, in a previous interview with us, you said that you’re never satisfied with anything you do and consequently, you’re not satisfied with what others do either. That sure sounds like a perfectionist to us! Do you define yourself as such?

DA: In your definition, yes, I would consider myself a perfectionist. But I don’t believe I’ll ever reach a place of perfection as I’m constantly trying to do better and striving to do more. There’s no such thing as a perfect anything – we should always be trying to place a goal, and once we get there trying to get to additional goals.

DA: It can be both – I prefer to work with someone who has integrity and with integrity they’re always trying to do better. It depends on what you mean by good or bad.

From your extensive research and incredible knowledge, what’s the: Perfect temperature for serving a Martini?

DA: The colder the better, but if you’re a Martini drinker/ enthusiast and want to taste the vermouth then you want it to be no colder than -5°C. Anywhere from -5°C to 0°C. Angle for shaking a cocktail?

DA: There’s no perfect angle for shaking a cocktail. It may be true that a longer throw is better for texture, but the majority of what happens in a shaker is down to the ice you’re using, whether you’re vigorous enough and how you strain.

Vessel for stirring a cocktail?

DA: There’s no perfect vessel but it would come down to how it looks, how it sounds at the bar, how easy it is to clean and whether or not it affects the drink.

DL: The best vessel is like the best cocktail, the one that’s in your hand.

Curious people attract other curious people – we want to create an environment where curious people have the resources to explore their creativity

Another one for you Dave, your award-winning book is called Liquid Intelligence: The Art & Science of the Perfect Cocktail, yet in it you say that perfection is the goal but mercifully unattainable. Why the title?

Honestly, my editor chose the title and as a result I believe it helped sell more books!

Do you regard the quest for perfection – in yourself, or in others – as a good or bad trait?

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IN-the hotseat

Way to measure ingredients for your drink?

DA: Use a jigger. A tall jigger is best.

Method for making ice at home?

DA: Whatever you have on hand for stirred drinks.

Freeze big cubes for shaking and for on-the-rocks drinks to look good.

Do you go to the extraordinary lengths that you do to create drinks (for example spending seven years and thousands of dollars on the problem of the perfect gin and tonic) for: a) your own satisfaction b) people who appreciate the time and effort that goes into them or c) to prove that it can be done?

DA: All of the above – it depends on your definition of extraordinary lengths, everything on our menu we consider reasonable to do.

As far as dream bars go, one with you two and Greg Boehm sounds pretty damned perfect to us. Tell us what qualities you each bring to the project.

DA: Greg brings a different perspective that’s useful, business infrastructure that’s shared across all his bars, operations knowledge, that sort of thing. Don and I are responsible for the creative – the look and feel of the bar.

DL: Dave and I are like-minded but very different people and Greg offers another perspective to our creative ideas.

What are your top tips for people making cocktails at home?

Which drinks on the menu are you proudest of and why?

DA: Go to a bar that you really like and respect and see what they do, taste their drinks and shoot for that at home. You need to see what other people can do so you can see if you’re doing a good job.

DA: here’s something unique about all of them so it’s hard to say, I’m proud of every drink on the menu. If I wasn’t proud of it then it wouldn’t be here, but I’ll call out: Serendipity – [with clarified tomato and clarified passionfruit] because it’s the only one of its kind.

Stingless [one of their non-alcoholic cocktails made using honey from the stingless Melipona bee, the only natural pollinator of vanilla orchids] – because no one has the honey we use Saratoga Paloma [with salty, naturally carbonated water they source from the Saratoga Springs] – because no one uses the mineral water we use.

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What are your top tips for professional bartenders for perfecting their craft?

DA: Build your taste palate, drink and make a lot of drinks. Before you worry about being the best, expand your tastes. exconditions.com

IN-spire

THE DETAILS THAT COUNT

Why settle for second best when you can make the perfect tools for your trade? We speak to four inspiring bartenders who have done just that

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IN-spire

Would you describe the rationale behind the creation of it as a quest for perfection?

When we started the project in 2007 the gin landscape was vastly different from today. There were a handful of benchmark gins that bartenders would gravitate towards and our mission was to make sure Fords was as good quality as our favourites. There was no point in putting out a gin that couldn’t stand up alongside Plymouth and Tanqueray. The other quest for perfection came from the belief that gin is the quintessential cocktail spirit and making Fords taste great in the classic gin cocktails was imperative.

Are there any other products that you’d like to perfect?

We’ve just bottled a Navy Strength expression of Fords Gin that’s been rested in Amontillado Sherry casks. I’m really proud of it and it’s the result of trying to perfect this style of gin and put out some new ways in which people can enjoy Fords Gin. It will be shipping to various countries over the next couple of months so hopefully people will get a change to try it soon.

Another product we’ve been working on for a few years now (that I don’t think is anywhere near seeing the light of day) is a grapefruit liqueur produced in a similar way to triple secs. One day I’d like to figure out a recipe that we really love and start the next grapefruit spirit revolution – but for now my world is gin. fordsgin.com

The other quest for perfection came from the belief that gin is the quintessential cocktail spirit

The glassware

Stephan Hinz – Spiegelau Perfect Serve Glassware Collection What makes your glassware unique?

A great bar is not only about the drinks. It’s a carefully considered work of art. It combines hand-picked music, a fine-tuned lighting concept, fine spirits, fresh ingredients and accomplished craftsmanship. It can be such a pleasure. Until you get a look at the cheap Coupette that the bartender places on the counter.

A glass is often chosen without much consideration. Or with only a thought to the style and not the function.

The Perfect Serve Collection takes glassware to the next level, appealing to all the senses. Perfect Serve Collection glasses have a smooth surface – in comparison to regular glasses. This protects the glass against aggressive detergents and makes it look brilliant. In most bars, the light comes from above. But in order for the drink to light up properly, the light must also be reflected from below. The characteristic base design of the Perfect Serve Collection was developed with this in mind – while the liquid in the upper part of the glass is clearly visible, the

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IN-spire

light is reflected from the bottom, making the drink look radiant. Plus the decoration on the side can also be used as a guide for free-pouring.

Who is the collection aimed at and why?

The right shape glass will also improve the taste of your drink. Take, for example, our Perfect Longdrink glass. A typical long drink or Highball is all about the fizziness.

You want a refreshing, sparkling drink. We figured out that the rounded base plate of the glasses holds in carbon dioxide longer. Another example is that all our tumblers are the perfect fit for big ice cubes or ice balls, ensuring drinks stay cold for longer while diluting more slowly.

Why and when did the idea for designing the Spiegelau Perfect Serve Collection come about?

Anyone who wants to enhance the drinking experience.

The idea came about more than six years ago, it took two years to perfect.

Would you describe the rationale behind the creation of the Spiegelau Perfect Serve Collection as a quest for perfection?

The clue is in the name!

The Perfect Serve Collection takes glassware to the next level, appealing to all the senses

Are there any other pieces of bar kit that you’d like to perfect?

We worked on a perfect solution for ice blocks in bars that you can check out at iceforward.com. spiegelau-perfectservecollection.com

A problem with glasses such as Coupettes or Martini glasses is the height. Many of them don’t fit in a freezer.

So, if you want to pre-cool them, you have to lay them down and this wastes space and causes chipping. We compared the measurements of popular freezers to define the perfect heights for our glasses and allow for easier pre-cooling.

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photograph addie chinn

IN-spire

The strainer

Simone Caporale – Cocktail Ninja Strainer What makes your strainer unique?

How long did it take to perfect?

The holes on the strainer are angular drilled rather than perpendicular, directing the flow into a narrower stream.

This provides an optimal and perfect pour while using the throwing techniques and also for straining a cocktail during a fast service. You can pour the liquid from 3m high and the flow of it is concentrated in 2cm2 – it’s incredible! The spring is much harder than most other strainers and it guarantees perfect contact with the inner surface of the shaker.

Approximately one year as I was going through one of my busiest years with many events. The longest part was communicating with the manufacturer to produce the mould. If the mould’s perfect you’ll have a special result, if there are mistakes on the mould, you’ll have 5,000 faulty strainers. I wanted it with a hand-made welding and a double point on the spring ring – this small request increased the production cost by 20%. It was ridiculous from a production point of view but technically speaking, it’s the most honest and durable detail ever considered for a strainer.

Who is it aimed at and why?

Bartenders who buy kit for technical reasons and not just because it’s good-looking.

The handle was inspired by a UK strainer from the early 1900s but simply extended by 13mm, to increase the grab and handle. The spring is longer to make solid contact between the spring and the inner part of the shaker; the holes are not perpendicular to the strainer plate, but are angular, directed to a centre point – like a compass always pointing in one direction, regardless of the angle.

You can pour the liquid from 3m high and the flow of it is concentrated in Would you describe the rationale behind the creation 2cm2 – it’s incredible! of it as a quest for perfection?

Why and when did the idea for creating your strainer come about?

The idea began in 2013, when there were no updated strainers on the market, only a few vintage (or vintage inspired) ones that were drawing the attention of bartenders. I shared my idea with Bek Narzi, founder of Russian Cocktail Club and Cocktail Ninja, and he offered to finance the project.

Yes, 100%. The vintage inspired handle was to make it look timeless.

Are there any other products that you’d like to perfect?

Yes. Together with Alex Kratena (p. 24) we’re releasing a bar tool set that will make you go crazy. It’s very slick and every millimetre of it has been designed for a reason... stay tuned. cocktail-ninja.com

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IN-spire

The bar tools Erik Lorincz – Birdy Collection What makes Birdy unique?

Technology. But it also starts with the shape. If you look at the body of the Birdy shaker, it’s completely rounded; usually a three-piece cocktail shaker has a hard shoulder before it tapers off at the top. As bartenders, we’re always talking about the perfect shake, how the ice breaks when we shake and how it needs to rotate somehow. So we created a round-bottomed shaker as its most likely that the ice won’t move up and down but will rotate because of the circle of the shaker.

I test the collection in the bar and give my feedback, making sure each tool answers all the necessary requirements That’s one part of it, the other important thing we do is hand polish the inside to make it incredibly smooth when the ice is rotating in the direction that you shake.

The polishing is a big thing: if you take any three-piece, even two-piece cocktail shaker, you’ll find a circle inside.

However, the circle is going against the direction that the ice is shaking – which is good for stirring but not shaking.

We removed the circle to make it much smoother – it helps with dilution and breaks the ice.

Our other tools are also produced with bartenders’ needs in mind. For instance, I used to have to work with three different jiggers as they come in certain increments.

We’ve designed one that has 10ml, 20ml and 30ml on one side, flip it over and you have 15ml, 30ml, 45ml and 60ml.

Our jigger also has a special coating inside which helps the liquid to come out more efficiently.

Our strainer has an in-built egg separator and the bar spoon has an upside-down triangle at the end to help balance the spoon, gently stir your Gin and Tonic and it also works as a swizzle as it has a little hole inside. Most bar spoons have very rough edges, this is because they usually start from a square shape and are then twisted.

We use our special polishing application to make it much softer on the fingers. We also came up with a spoon for left and right-handed bartenders. For the left stirrers we twisted in the right direction and vice versa.

Who’s the collection aimed at and why?

It’s designed by a bartender for bartenders. We’re not like someone who sees a gap in the market to design bar tools.

They might design them in a bright, white studio but they forget that the bartender using them isn’t working in a bright, white bar. All the elements change and the functionality isn’t the same. So I test the collection in the bar and give my feedback, making sure each tool answers all the necessary requirements.

Why and when did the idea for designing the Birdy Collection come about?

It stems from the fact that I wanted to create bar tools that I wanted to use. I went all around the world trying to find the right partner and eventually found what I was looking for in Japan. The bar tools there are so beautiful, but I wanted ours to be even better. Thankfully, I met Tetsuya Yokoyama who was looking to develop a new

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IN-spire

arm for his family’s business. They have a massive factory making precision parts for the automotive industry and the know-how to do anything with stainless steel. They ran the test for the rounded shape of the Birdy shaker and fed back on how it changes temperature and dilution.

From those results we went on to design a mixing tin rather than a glass one; glass is pretty in the bar but not always practical as it breaks. Ours costs slightly more but once you invest, it won’t break. We use the same technology as the shaker but apply the polishing in a different direction – horizontal rather than vertical.

How long did it take to perfect?

Around two years. It was a very interesting process as his English wasn’t good and I didn’t speak Japanese – so he would send me emails and I would put them straight into Google translate!

Would you describe the rationale behind the creation of the Birdy Collection as a quest for perfection?

Absolutely, we want to make sure that our tools are not just visually appealing but practical too. We want them to be perfect not just OK.

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Any other projects in the pipeline?

We have a new, larger mixing tin coming out in the spring. It’s 750ml rather than our standard 500ml one. facebook.com@birdyerik

We also came up with a spoon for left and righthanded bartenders.

For the left stirrers we twisted in the right direction and vice versa

IN-spire

Act II Perfect pours The one where they reveal their new range of liqueurs Not being funny, but liqueurs don’t have the greatest rep. At best, they get sipped somewhat sheepishly, like the guiltiest of pleasures; at worst they get overlooked altogether. It’s the sweetness that scares people off. That and the fact that only a few liqueur brands have even attempted to blow the cobwebs off the image of what most consider a dusty category, barely attempting to speak the same language as today’s discerning drinkers. Until now.

“Liqueurs is one of the last remaining categories which hasn’t become premium yet, they’re so stuck in the past,” says Alex.

And who better to give them a facelift than him, together with Monica and fellow enquiring mind, Simone Caporale?

“We wanted to create a liqueur a modern bartender wants to work with. Why are there no woody, earthy, complex liqueurs? Maybe some have been made but if you were to say ‘I want to use an amazing woody, earthy liqueur’, where would you go?” The answer, as of spring this year is Muyu – the new range of sexy, super premium liqueurs the trio have designed with enquiring palates in mind.

There are three expressions to play with: Muyu Jasmine Vert, Muyu Vetiver Gris and Muyu Chinotto Nero.

“The names indicate the ingredients used but also the complexity inside the bottle,” says Monica. “For example, for my jasmine I wanted a very green, lively, bright, nice, fresh approach to it – that’s why it’s called Jasmine Vert.”

“We’ve each added a colour to indicate a feel, which is why you have green, grey and black.” Alex chips in. “Anyone who’s tasted them blind can clearly define who they’re created by. Each liquid is a mirror of our personality and also our bartending style, so you can see how I compose flavours as opposed to Monica or Simone.”

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It’s true. The fresh, floral, seemingly soft but sensual characteristics of Muyu Jasmine Vert is distinctly Monica’s, while the bold, earthy, grassy, uniquely woody notes emitted from Muyu Vetiver Gris couldn’t be down to anyone other than Alex. Then there’s Simone’s Muyu Chinotto Nero, packing an intense citric punch, bursting with intrigue and drama. “He was using bitter oranges to accentuate the bitterness you normally get in chinotto but it wasn’t clicking, so he came up with using cinchona bark.

He’s done a really good job of constructing this really rich citrus but he also stayed true to the concept of chinotto, so it has a really pleasant bitterness which is very unusual for a liqueur,” says Monica.

Unusual yes, but then these are no bog standard liqueurs.

Working with an expert team from Grasse, an area in France widely regarded as being the perfume capital of the world, as well as De Kuyper Royal Dutch Distillers in Schiedam, partners in the project who come in with 300 years of distilling experience, there were no short cuts in getting the liqueurs just so.

Each liquid as imagined by the author, or ‘nose’ (Alex, Monica or Simone) starts with the extraction of a single note of a flower, plant or fruit, followed by the meticulous undertaking of seeking out the precise ingredients to bind it all together. Then comes one or more exacting processes – either enfleurage, infusion, steam distillation and CO2 extraction or vacuum distillation – before it’s blended with alcohol, water and minimal sugar, ready for bottling.

“It was an exciting project for the partners in Grasse,” says Alex. “A lot of the ingredients have never been used in food and beverages in a commercial capacity before.

Which meant that some had to be specifically sourced.”

As you might expect, the procedure wasn’t exactly quick.

Or cheap. But the result is all the better for it. “We’ve combined niche perfume attitudes and our own cocktailmaking philosophy to redefine the liqueur category,” adds Monica proudly.

IN-spire

The idea was inspired by the flavours, traditions and techniques of the ingredients they encountered on their travels to the Amazon jungle. “We wanted to create a liqueur brand that excites fellow bartenders in much the same way we were [excited] when we were given these unique flavours to work with. Except we’re creating a completely developed and complex liquid without taking anything from the rainforest,” she continues. Instead they’re giving – part of the proceeds of all Muyu sales will go to non-governmental organisations working in the Amazon.

As for the name: it means ‘seed’ in Quechuan languages and the packaging – all muted, modern-looking flora – also nods in the rainforest direction. “For us it was very much a partnership which creates unique, modern liqueurs with the flavours of now.”

Muyu is available from 19 February exclusively from the Muyu pop up boutique and Cellar Trends. cellartrends.co.uk

“The whole station is inspired by nature and is comprised of a series of hexagons,” he begins. Why a hexagon?

“Because it’s the strongest, most efficient structure for storage,” he explains matter-of-factly. “It’s made up of several internal parts to enable you to store everything you need for service, but they’re totally changeable, allowing you to adapt the station according to your needs.” Even as someone who doesn’t make drinks for a living, I get the drift when he explains that a left-handed bartender will work more efficiently if they can have a station set up accordingly. Ditto someone who works in a linear fashion, or the person who prefers working in a circular style. “The idea stems from the way they work in kitchens: rather than having everything set, it’s flexible and can be set up for the specific needs of each bar, the people who are working there, the produce they use and the concept of the space.”

Muyu Boutique, 67 Neal Street, Covent Garden London WC2H 9PJ

ACT III Pouring perfection The one where they perfect the bar station “We’re always questioning things; sometimes annoyingly so,” laughs Monica. Annoying for them maybe, but not for anyone who’s wondering what’s next in the world of drinks. It’s their constant questioning that leads to, if not perfection of the project or product they put under scrutiny, then something near as dammit.

Take the bar station for instance. All too often designed by people who have little or no clue how a bartender operates, let alone give much thought to the workspace they actually need, it’s usually the bit where the money’s run out. And let’s face it, it’s not what the customer sees.

But if you’ve ever seen a bartender drool over a beautifully designed bar space, one that takes ergonomics and functionality into account, you’ll understand just how important a well-designed bar station is. Alex explains: “The way we make drinks has changed a lot. Everything from the ingredients we use to the fast-paced way of working has changed, but the bar stations don’t reflect the needs of the modern bartender.” You know what’s coming next…“So in collaboration with Behind Bars – the design studio – we’ve designed a bar station.” He pulls out the illustrations to talk through their revolutionary design.

And the clever thinking doesn’t end there. “It also means you can change the set up according to the seasons. For instance, in the summer, you’ll need more ice, so we’ve designed it so you can adapt accordingly; then in the winter when you’re making Irish coffees you might need a water bath, so you can add extra hexagons for a water bath.” He points to one of the hexagons, “See this? It’s a hexagon upside down; turn it over and you can store things in it. For increased efficiency, it’s perforated, so even if something leaks it goes straight into the piping and doesn’t stay in your station. For all the dry garnishing and anything you might need for service you have two drawers and a separate bin for waste, plus two refrigeration units which can be switched on as a fridge or freezer depending on what you need.” Both he and Monica look justifiably pleased with the results. Check out the station for yourself when their new bar Tayēr + Elementary opens in early spring (p. 64). And for any bar owners who fancy commissioning one for themselves, find out more at behindbars.agency

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IN-the spotlight

“Perfection isn’t a term that we use as we realise that it’s unattainable,” says Leo Robitschek, Bar Director at The NoMad properties and Eleven Madison Park in New York. Really? You could’ve fooled us. Have you been to either of the venues he’s talking about? If the flawless service, classically cool and contemporary interiors and sublime, justifiably award-winning food and drinks can’t be described as perfection, then we’ve totally lost the plot. “We believe that if you teach your staff to be perfect, it’s going to end in disappointment,” he continues. Again, we’re baffled. Then just as we’re beginning to think that he’s fooling with us he adds, “Instead we like to use the word excellence.” Ah, that’s more like it. “We strive for attention to detail and it’s the summation of all the small details that we try to achieve that allows us to achieve excellence, which to our mind is one step closer to perfection.”

the library at the nomad

That way of thinking has certainly worked for them – they’ve won countless awards to prove it. As for those ‘small details’, they’ve become legendary. Have you heard the one about the guest who posted on Twitter how excited he was about going to eat at the three Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, but sad that he couldn’t try Shake Shack? The EMP team did. “We picked up on it before he arrived, so one of the team went to Shake Shack and bought him a burger.

We presented it on a plate with a cloche on it for his fourth course. He was so touched that he started crying,” says Leo proudly. “We jokingly told him that we like to make people cry out of happiness.”

Another example is a regular who joked about how the team go so above and beyond, that maybe some day they’d send him to the moon. “Six months later when he came in, we decorated the elevator like a spaceship and set up our private dining room with stars and the like and gave him his dinner on the moon.”

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IN-the spotlight

above and far right: the parlour at the nomad; centre: eleven madison park

No surprise then that the restaurant group they’re part of is called Make It Nice. Nice mind, not perfect or even excellent. Nice has a cuddlier, more attainable feel to it; nice speaks to all – from the high-rolling regulars who drop thousands of dollars staying in their favourite suite at The NoMad in New York and Los Angeles – and no doubt London when it opens – to those who save a month’s wages to dine in fine style at Eleven Madison Park.

We look up every single person who books in with us across multi social media platforms to find out any information we can We have Miles Davis to thank for the success of EMP and The NoMad. Leo recalls: “In the early days of Eleven Madison Park we wanted to be the best restaurant that we could be and to achieve that, we did what most other restaurants do, we looked to the people in the industry we admired and we tried to emulate them. We got the same flatware, the same uniforms, adopted the same style of service, things like that, but it just wasn’t clicking. It came to a head when we had our first real review. It was a smallish publication and they said we were great but we were missing a little Miles Davis. That’s what gave us the push. First we had to define what it meant… So we started looking up Miles Davis and we came up with 11 things: cool, endless reinvention, inspired, forward moving, fresh, collaborative, spontaneous, vibrant, adventurous,

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light and innovation. And that’s exactly what we were looking for, the lexicon to describe what we wanted to do.

It made us realise how important vocabulary is in creating a culture. Coming up with a term for what we wanted to do – excellence versus perfection – just made sense.”

The other thing they did was to look to Fortune 500 companies instead of other restaurants for inspiration.

“What we found was that most of these companies did something called strategic planning where every member of staff spends one day planning out the next year. Like them, we believe that all our staff have a voice, so everyone’s invited in. The chef cooks a meal and we give them a mission statement and a few things we want to work on.

From there, we come up with ideas we want to accomplish and try to work out how we can achieve them. For instance, one of the things we came up with at EMP was a way of doing a ticketless coat check. Why couldn’t we come up with a way to take out that transaction of you checking in your coat and us handing you a ticket then when you get up you have to hand over a ticket and feel obligated to tip someone else? So we figured out a method for our own internal coat system by using people’s reservations. It means that rather than going to get your coat when the check has been dropped and you’re ready to leave, your captain will go and get your coat and bring it to you at your table.”

photographs by jake chessum and daniel krieger

IN-the spotlight

It’s just one of the many things going on behind the scenes that guests might not even notice but add up to ensuring that they have the best all-round encounter. In truth, it starts even before they step over the threshold: “We look up every single person who books in with us across multi social media platforms to find out any information we can,” explains Leo. “It’s funny but when this came out people got a little mad at us as they thought it was an invasion of privacy. For us, it wasn’t like that at all – the reason we do it is to see what we can find that will better your time with us.”

They even have people on the payroll called Dreamweavers whose sole job is to create something that will be a memorable keepsake or experience for their guests. “We have them at EMP and The NoMad. In both places we encourage all of our servers, bartenders and staff members to pay attention to the tables, to listen out for any cues or clues. For instance, there was a pop star in very recently.

She was with a friend and said, “Oh my God, I would marry you so you don’t get deported; I’d be so sad if you left!” They were sort of joking but at the end of the meal we gave them a little gift box with a fake green card that we made for them. They loved it!”

I don’t think we’re any different from any other company that really cares, or is at the top of their game. It’s about attention to those details Who doesn’t like a little bit of fuss made over them? Even better when it’s tailored to your particular needs. “It comes from us sitting around a table having talks that turned into arguments that turned into laughs for months on end. And we still do that in management meetings, even over small details – it’s all out of love; care,” explains Leo. “I don’t think we’re any different from any other company that really cares, or is at the top of their game. It’s about attention to those details.” makeitnicenyc.com

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IN-dulge

JUST ADD ICE…

THE BEST BOTTLED COCKTAILS – PRE-MADE AND BALANCED FOR YOUR DELECTATION

THE TEA TOTAL No alcohol? No problem. These exceptional teas are delightful sipped over ice on their own.

Darjeeling White Peony and Connoisseur’s Oolong teas, £9.35 for 200ml, masterofmalt.com

THE BOTTLED BEST SELLERS Four of the best-selling cocktails from the menus at The Clumsies in Athens, batched and bottled for your drinking pleasure.

The Clumsies Bottled Cocktails, from €7.40 for 200ml, theclumsies.gr

THE ARTIST’S IMPRESSION Making bottled cocktails serious and sexy since launching in Selfridges windows in 2014.

Mr Lyan cocktails, starting from £23.95 for 500ml, masterofmalt.com

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THE TASTE OF THREE DECADES Limited-edition kit containing 1950s Martini, 1960s Vesper, 1970s Negroni and 1980s Bobby Burns.

Antique Collection, $198 for four 90ml bottles and $50 gift voucher for The Everleigh cocktail bar or four crystal whisky tumblers.

(Available in Australia only). everleighbottling.com

IN-the spotlight

RATIOS SOUND VAGUE. TWO PARTS THIS TO ONE PART THAT – THEY’RE REMINISCENT OF A TIME WHEN HOMEMADE PUNCHES WERE BREWED BY 17-YEAR-OLDS CLUTCHING LEMONADE, PEACHES IN A CAN AND ASSORTED SPIRITS GLEANED FROM DAD’S BOOZE CABINET. AND YET RATIOS IN SCIENCE ARE ANYTHING BUT VAGUE. YOU CAN’T ADD ANOTHER PART OXYGEN TO H2O AND STILL EXPECT WATER. SO COULD THEY REPRODUCE THE PERFECT DRINK EACH TIME WE REACH FOR THE MIXING GLASS? Before we get into the nitty-gritty of whose Daiquiri formula is better and what the nature of perfection is anyway, let’s agree that there’s no one ratio for all drinks – in contrast to what the internet might have us believe.

A little web search on the topic, and you’ll find the 2:1:1 of spirit to sour to sweet. ‘The only ratio you need for perfect cocktails’, reads one headline. ‘Bartenders don’t have time to memorise recipes’, declares another, ‘instead they simply follow the 2:1:1, as if it’s the new Gangnam style or the floss’. In fact, credit where credit’s due, the 2:1:1 would make a pretty good Margarita or Daiquiri. For sours it’s a great starting point for the home bartender – but please don’t mix my Negroni that way.

While it may not be as simple as a blanket ratio for every drink, bartenders do use a language of ratios for the most famous of the cocktail cannon, especially the Martini.

4:1 is wet for some, 2:1 for others; 7:1 begins the language of dry, 10:1 is definitely dry, 15:1 and we’re talking no waffle and a Montgomery’s stiff upper lip.

When it comes to the Daiquiri, bartenders will happily swap rum, lime and sugar ratios like horse fixtures late into the night. In fact, a trip to Stockholm before the closure of Little Quarter was often summarised by one of Andrea Patelli’s 80:20:10 Daiquiris: lethal. It’s a ratio I remember vividly.

Ratios help us remove doubt or room for interpretation when ordering. They’ll help you order your perfect drink. “If we go back to the idea of the Martini being like a cup of tea, we could imagine that the vermouth is the milk. How much you want is down to personal preference,” says Sebastian Hamilton-Mudge who wrote The Legend of the Plymouth Martini. Hamilton-Mudge is famous for his love of very dry Martinis. He’s the type of chap you might catch wafting a bottle of vermouth in the direction of his cold, sharp glass of gin. But to him that’s the perfect Martini and anything less than 10:1 is wet. Unsurprisingly I’ve never seen him order

a Martini without giving a ratio, unless he knows the bartender well.

Ratios also help us understand how palates have shifted.

Continuing with the Martini, a cocktail under that name was in print back in the 1800s but called for sweet vermouth. In 1900 a drink of a different name, the Marguerite, made an appearance in Johnson’s New and Improved Illustrated Bartender’s Manual, and although it’s far closer to a Martini, calling for 1:1 gin and dry vermouth, it includes sweetness from anisette. The first recipe we’d recognise as a modern Martini appears in 1904, also under the name Marguerite. Found in the second printing of Stuart’s Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them, it asks for 2:1 gin to French dry vermouth.

It’s from this ratio we start to see the world’s most iconic drink evolve. Not from the name, nor the publication, nor the people serving it.

Most bars have a set formula for each style of cocktail, whether it be a sour or an Old Fashioned But where do ratios come in to modern creation?

Can they help those inventing as much as they can those ordering?

“Most bars have a set formula for each style of cocktail, whether it be a sour or an Old Fashioned,” says Evan Stroeve, Bar Manager of Bulletin Place in Sydney – a bar made famous by owner Tim Philips’ dedication to fresh produce and nightly changing menus. “Bulletin Place isn’t any different. However, the portfolio of produce that we use over the course of each season is so diverse that those structures are often not concrete. The levels of natural sweetness, acidity and salinity in agricultural produce changes every day. We measure brix and pH and adjust produce accordingly, in an aim to have ingredients that conform to our ratios or points of balance. However, often this is a point of diminishing returns. There’s only so much control you can have. Sometimes it’s best to let natural produce shine and trust your palate.”

Those terms pH and brix might sound a little like bartenders these days are pedants for perfection. But the change in pH and brix from one bar to the next, one continent to the other, explains why there’s no one perfect ratio for classic drinks. Stroeve and the team use

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IN-focus

Inside the cabinets each bottle has one, two or three beads on it: a system that removes, in Aske’s opinion, “one of the biggest barriers” for people that want to explore whisky – price. Someone completely new to the spirit will often rely on a bartender’s recommendations, but they may be surprised when they get the bill. Here one bead signals £7 for a dram, two beads equal £11 and three beads means you pay £13.

For Stephenson and Aske, it’s about stripping everything back, removing the stuffy preconceptions people have around the spirit and placing the whisky centre stage.

Where else would you find a 185-year-old tree trunk in the middle of the room, with two separate channels carved down it housing their constantly ageing and evolving house blends?

By peeling away the things that might put off a whisky virgin, they’ve also found a new way for the established whisky lover to explore and branch out. At Black Rock there are nearly 400 different whiskies from all over the world. For the die-hard fan, the flavour approach can lead them to stumble across whiskies they’ve never heard of before, and others similar to the ones they enjoy.

“We try to create a home from home as opposed to something too conceptualised.” says Aske, and they succeed. When you walk into the bar you hear 90s hip-

hop and R&B, and it feels like you’ve found a special, underground secret. Black walls, great modern artwork and minimal decor all serve to create a vibe that’s far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city. And the mood is miles away from the traditional “tartan carpets and curtains, and an all Scottish menu” that Aske and Stephenson wanted to leave behind.

These three new takes on price, flavour and ambience help make a customer leave with the feeling that “they’ve discovered something new rather than been told something new, and there’s a big difference between the two,” explains Aske. “The former creates more of an emotional experience in the long run.”

And surely this is what every bar, and bartender, seeks to achieve. A perfect experience, if such a thing can exist, is one that’s designed from top to bottom to produce something their customer will never forget. Black Rock feels like a broad church that will inevitably introduce both the whisky initiate and the seasoned veteran to something new in a way that doesn’t feel like a lecture or lesson. Everything adds up, creating a delicate balance between tradition and modernity, between the new and the familiar. It’s a whisky temple that doesn’t take itself too seriously, combining a respect and love for the spirit that’s refreshingly down to earth.

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IN-formed

MAINS & MARTINIS

We’ve been dining and drinking in the centre of London, the heart of Edinburgh and by the ocean in Mexico

Chileno Bay Resort & Residences Carretera Transpeninsular Km. 15, 23410 Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico. T: +52 844 207 9354. aubergeresorts.com/chilenobay (£££) The vibe: Every single thing about Chileno Bay Resort says relax.

From the very first greeting, “Welcome home”, through to our super lush and calming room, and on to drinks and dining by the ocean.

The food: Brilliant sunshine, stunning sunsets or evening stargazing, Comal restaurant is an al fresco dining delight. The food is faithful to its Mexican heritage but brings a modern inventiveness. The braised short rib with cacao broth, chilhuacle, roasted corn and chayote was super succulent and bursting with flavour. The Chileno grill yellowfin tuna, red snapper, octopus, shrimp and rib eye with vegetables tasted even better than it looked – and trust us, it looked absolutely sublime.

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The drinks: Award-winning Beverage Manager Osvaldo Vazquez combines perfect hosting (all smiles and attentiveness) with a very impressive drinks offering. Like the food, it’s respectful of Mexican heritage (Osvaldo bringing his extensive knowledge of regional spirits, using local and seasonal ingredients and his own Mexican-aged bitters) but also embraces the contemporary.

The drinks on offer are as agreeable as the view and infinity pool. The Chilenito (mezcal, poblano pepper liqueur, pineapple, ginger and Rudabitter) was perfectly balanced and slipped down incredibly easily. There are also clever signature drinks like the Sonora Commercial (aged tequila ‘Casa Amigos’, eucalyptus syrup, lime and artisanal Mexican Tepache), and Humo De Comal (mezcal, purple chicha, citrus and smoky grass). We also loved the Betty Bramble (G’Vine Floraison Gin, dry curacao, purple chicha and bergamot bitters) – a super sunny take on an English classic.

IN-formed

Corinthia Hotel London

Hawksmoor Edinburgh

Kerridge’s Bar & Grill/Bassoon, Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD. T: 020 7930 8181. corinthia.com (£££)

23 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA. T: 0131 526 4790. thehawksmoor.com (££)

The vibe:

The vibe:

All understated glamour and exceptional service, the Corinthia Hotel is the A-list celebs’ preferred London hideaway. The rest of us can get in on the fabulous treatment with offerings that deliver on both the flavour front and in the style stakes.

An opulent one-time banking hall gets the excellent Hawksmoor treatment – tip-top steaks, on the money cocktails and a roomful of cheery staff.

The food: Tom Kerridge is likeable, Michelin-starred and now in London, serving up traditional UK dishes guaranteed to raise a smile. Just check out the menu descriptions: Pig’s Cheek Pie with raw cream mash, crispy black pudding and devilled sauce, not to mention Saddle of Cotswold Lamb with shepherd’s pie, black cabbage and pickled lemon.

And that was before we got to dark chocolate pudding with crystallised malt biscuit, salted caramel and malted milk ice cream. Fine dining and comfort food in perfect harmony, we were in culinary heaven.

The drinks: We originally visited Bassoon when it first opened. A few years on and the stylish 1920s-inspired interior is, pleasingly, as it was back then. What’s new, though, is the arrival of the widely respected Marcis Dzelzainis as Bar Director. Cleverly taking classics and deftly delivering them into the present, with witty, helpful descriptors, such as Warm Hug, Strong, Baked Pastries, Coconut, and Tropical, Tiki, Luscious, Passionfruit. The former arrived as the Toasted Coconut Old Fashioned (toasted coconut bourbon, vanilla, bitters) which was richly satisfying on a winter evening. The latter, the Rhizzle (rum, capillaire, Aperol, iron, passionfruit, lime) brought a welcome illusion of summer sunshine.

The food: Maybe it was because it was a Monday evening, but there were a number of no shows on the menu. We did manage to grab the very last of the tender Old Spot Belly Ribs, alongside the Tarbert crab on toast, to start – both delicious. As for our mains, given the limited choice, we both went with steaks (rib eye and rump). Absolutely no complaints there. We resisted adding extra eggs, bacon or grilled bone marrow, but we did give in to bone marrow gravy. And no meal would be complete wit a serving of their famous goose fat and triple cooked chips – that would be plain madness. We didn’t really need a pudding, but shared the Ambassador’s Reception, a devilishly tasty take on an 80s classic – you know the one, rich and indulgent with chocolate and hazlenuts – and yes, we did feel like they were really spoiling us.

The drinks: Rest-assured there are plenty of Hawksmoor favourites on offer such as the crowd-pleasing Shaky Pete’s Ginger Brew and the tangy Marmalade Cocktail. The bar team were full of smiles and knowledge and helped create a welcome sense of intimacy in the vast venue. Before dinner they mixed us up The Hawksmoor Collins (Beefeater 24, Campari, bitters, lemon, soda) which was refreshing with a nicely bitter edge. Later, the darkly satisfying Two Saints (Apricot Cognac, Lillet Rouge, Pedro Ximénez, Peychaud’s Bitters) rounded off our evening very nicely.

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IN-formed

Game on!

The

Cocktail

Whisky-loving Game of Throners will be going ga-ga over the limited-edition Game of Thrones Single Malt Whisky Collection.

Featuring eight expressions, one for each of the Houses of Westeros, it will give fans something to savour well after the final season has ended.

Order yours now from amazon.co.uk

Girl

In pursuit of London’s coolest bars.

Fam You know those days when you want to go out but really feel like staying in? Fam fits the bill perfectly. It’s a bar, but not in that fussy, look at me kind of way; it’s the sort of place where you can just go and simply chill. If that’s what you want of course – if you’re in the mood to party, Fam ticks that box too.

As the name implies, Fam is about family or familiarity. It’s not the biggest of bars – which isn’t a criticism by any means, in fact, it makes the space feel more like a living room. Framed informal photographs of their industry friends line one of the walls, a pick and mix selection of vinyl takes up another. The vinyl is a very cool move; not only is it fun, it’s functional: guests can flick through and select their favourite album to be played as they drink.

Album selected (Ziggy Stardust if you want to know), it was time to get acquainted with the drinks. Obviously, my guest and I poo-pooed sitting at one of the tables and banquettes dotted around the room, opting for the few seats at the bar; my usual choice for checking out the moves as the team get to work on the business in hand.

Notable nibbles Make way, new cocktail munch coming through: all hail the dried tomato. Don’t look at us like that, these babies are crisped to perfection, making them ideal to pair with a Bloody Mary or your G&T. Unadorned or dipped (guacamole, hummus – you name it), they’re simply gorge.

Dardiman’s Tomato Crisps, available from harveynichols.com

This is my kind of menu: short, sweet and thankfully, to the point. Who doesn’t know what they’re going to get with a Fam Margarita? But with its blend of Highland and Lowland tequilas, house citrus and Devon flower honey this has extra oomph.

Then there's The Claymore, described as blended whisky stirred down with English sparkling wine cordial. We had one of each and they were both completely delicious.

At £10.50 a pop, the prices are also on point. Particularly given the location – just over the road from Selfridges. It’s one of the most down-to-earth bars I’ve had the pleasure to drink in in the centre of London. I’m definitely a fan of Fam. fam.bar

Time out with Tim Looking at balance in work and play with Tim EtheringtonJudge from Healthy Hospo.

THE PROBLEM WITH PERFECTION… We dream of perfection, chase after its flawlessness, desire its purity, fantasise about its sublime beauty and obsess over its exquisite precision. Yet, it’s impossible to obtain.

The quest for perfection comes from our craving to experience happiness. These days our lives are flooded with perfectly manicured Instagram feeds of seemingly perfect people with ridiculously perfect bodies and insanely perfect lives. This is the image that’s presented to us as a successful existence, lacking nothing and the only way to be truly happy. Our imaginations run wild, thinking that everyone is living this way and we’re the only ones living a hum drum life. If we just work harder, push ourselves a little more and spend less time sleeping we can achieve this dystopian vision of the perfect existence.

In our unending quest for perfection, we risk a trove of problems, from body dysmorphia caused by the unrealistic beauty standards that heavily Photoshopped images set, to complex mental health

disorders as the endless disappointment of not living the perfect life as we imagine it, and feeling that – no matter how hard we try – it’ll always be out of reach and everyone else is doing much better.

You’re not failing at life because you’re not as jacked as The Rock.

Your life is not worthless because you haven’t achieved as much as Elon Musk. You’re not ugly because you don’t have a perfectly chiselled six-pack or a real life digitally enhanced butt.

I’m not saying that we shouldn’t strive for perfection, to achieve the very best that we possibly can and to push ourselves hard to realise it. Nothing of great value or purpose in life is accomplished by sitting back and accepting mediocrity. We must however, take care not to let perfection take over our lives. Obsession in any form is an unhealthy practice, and when we’re obsessed with the unobtainable, it can lead us to very dark places.

The only way to experience happiness in our perfection-obsessed world, is to sit back and accept the beauty in imperfection whilst welcoming excellence with open arms. For it’s the imperfections in our world that provide the character, the excitement and the true beauty that we can all enjoy. If we just stop wanting to be perfect.

Industry folk: want more insights into leading a more balanced lifestyle? Sign up for updates at healthyhospo.com

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IN-formed

The hot list Coral – The Pantone Colour of the Year. Check out The Coral Room in Bloomsbury and get acquainted with the coral-coloured, non-alcoholic Living Coral (Seedlip Spice 108, pomelo and pink pepper tonic, cactus water and seaweed).

Calamansi – Another citrus to join the party, this one is reputed to be tops for detoxing, soothing the stomach and boosting the immune system. Look out for it in juice form at a health shop near you.

Fermentation – Yes, yes, bartenders have been playing around with fermenting for the past few years but now it's going proper mainstream. Get your ferment on for a healthy gut.

CBD (aka cannabidiol) – They’re everywhere atm – even Coca Cola is reputed to be getting in on the act. The latest is Recess from NYC, a sparkling water infused with the stuff.

Functional water – Everything from cactus to birch, alkaline-ionised to CBD. Water as anything but plain old H20.

FIVE MINUTES WITH… PHILIP DUFF FOUNDER/MAKER OLD DUFF GENEVER How long has Old Duff Genever been in fruition?

l: peter dorelli; r: philip duff at the london launch

MOVIE MOMENTS

The short answer is four years, the long answer is somewhere between 10 and four years.

What makes it special?

First of all, it’s 100% milled, mashed, fermented and bottled in Holland which is really rare. Almost all the famous genevers that say they’re made in Holland aren’t, they’re outsourced to a distillery in Belgium. Second, Old Duff Genever is made in a 14th generation, family-owned genever distillery that’s been making genever since 1777. Third, it’s got lots and lots of rye in it. I love rye – it’s delicious, but it’s a real pain in the arse to work with. You’ve got to control the fermentation and the distillation, it’s very glutinous and hard to get the correct yield, but it’s worth it for the taste. Fourth, we produce two variants, one is 100% Maltwine, which is very rare and one of the reasons why we’re one of only three brands in the world who have the seal of Schiedam. It means our product is made in exactly the same way as genever was made in 1902, with no neutral alcohol, colour or sugar, and distilled in pot stills. Lastly, $1 per bottle in the US goes to the USBG National Charity Foundation which helps bartenders with sudden, unexpected, catastrophic expenses and in the UK, we’ll be donating to The Benevolent. Wherever we launch, we’ll seek out charities to benefit bartenders.

Laurel and Hardy are having another moment, thanks to Steve Coogan and John C. Reilly’s brilliant portrayal of the comedic duo on screen. Whether you’re a long term fan, a brand new one or simply looking for another reason to head along to the American Bar at The Savoy, you’re in luck. Maxim Schulte pays homage to Mssrs. L and H with the Stan (light, citric and savoury) and the Ollie (rich, dark and robust), created to match their personalities. fairmont.com

Can you remember the first time you tasted genever?

It was in 1998. I was living in Rotterdam and went to the genever museum and got to taste some amazing genevers at the end of the tour. Since then I’ve visited every distillery in Holland and Belgium.

Then Bols said they were going to rejuvenate genever and asked me to be involved and it’s been a passion of mine ever since.

How are you getting people’s heads around genever as a category?

Every good bar in the world knows they need a bottle of genever in their repertoire for cocktails like the Collins or Martinez, but the big thing is getting people to treat it like any other spirit. Genever is a delicious whisky-like distillate and it’s delicious in part because it’s un-aged (you can age it, but I don’t age mine). It has all the flavour of the malt but none of the wood. For that reason it makes a superior Alexander instead of brandy – it tastes like a malted milk shake.

It’s a unique product, it’s what whisky was before they took the botanicals out and started putting it in barrels. Genever has never changed. It’s perfectly preserved from hundreds of years ago.

Tell us something about the design We needed an animal to put in the coin in the centre of the bottle and came up with everything from a bear to a unicorn. Then I remembered that St. Patrick lived in my home town in Ireland and he kept a goat that was stolen and killed by my ancestors – true story. So we went with a goat. They’re funny and endearing but they can also be dark and evil.

What’s your favourite way to enjoy Old Duff Genever?

As an everyday drink, it’s hard to beat the Martinez recipe at Dante in New York. I also love drinking a genever with a very carefully picked out beer and genever pairing. After dinner, there’s just no better drink than an Alexander. Dante has one on the menu, Geneva Alexander, it’s incredible!

Old Duff Genever is available in the UK from specialitybrands.com

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IN-ternational

WHAT’S HOT RIGHT NOW

above and right: electric sing butt, lebanon

Electric Bing Sutt Beirut, Lebanon instagram.com/electricbingsutt/ Coming from arguably one of the Middle East’s best homegrown bartending talents Jad Ballout, this artfully laid-back venue features simple tables made from recycled materials and a majestic bar. Jad has been inspired by his recent travels to Asia and has opened this place with his wife.

‘Bing Sutt’ means ice room in Cantonese, and it’s a type of traditional cold coffee house popular in Hong Kong.

Transported to Beirut, it’s an Asian/Middle Eastern fusion spot. Bringing something refreshingly unique to Lebanon, Jad’s fusing those Cantonese flavours with his own Lebanese roots. One of the stand-out cocktails is the K-Pop Bloody Mary made with homemade Korean kimchi distilled vodka.

Classic dishes are transformed into unique cocktails, such as ‘gemista’ (stuffed tomatoes) which becomes a memorable Bloody Mary, bougatsa (sweet cream pie) now a Milk Punch and orange pie which turns into the Bees Knees.

And the retro inspirations of the award-winning bartenders don’t stop there. The classic Martini becomes the Senios Martini with Otto’s Athens Vermouth and the addition of lemon, reflecting the iconic Myrto Greek cologne. Meanwhile, the Old Fashioned is prepared with Metaxa 12 Stars and rakomelo (raki with honey) and flavoured with halva and carob, while the mizuwari is given a Greek twist by using ouzo and veggie water.

Senios Athens, Greece instagram.com/senios_athens/ Brought to us by the team behind The Clumsies and inspired by the aristocratic aura of old Athens, Senios revives a classic Athenian way of life, with vintage aesthetics and a new concept that connects the golden age of the past with the modern pulse of the city.

Senios re-establishes the custom of the bourgeois cafe, introducing each guest to a realm of cosmopolitan glamour and harkening back to a time when the Greek capital experienced a flowering of arts and letters.

‘Senios’ is a carefree gentleman of the past, who is used to dressing up in his best suit for a walk to the local ‘kafeneion’ or coffee shop, flirting discreetly and offering the carnation that adorns his lapel to the apple of his eye.

The menu incorporates domestic brands such as Metaxa, Skinos Mastiha Spirit and Roots Liqueurs, and draws inspiration from the traditional food culture of Greece.

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big news in athens – senios

the odd couple, shanghai

Laurel Bar

The Odd Couple

Dubai, UAE caesars.com/dubai/caesars-palace

Shanghai, China instagram.com/theoddcoupleshanghai/ Brainchild of bartending super team Steve Schneider and Shingo Gokan, this high-energy cocktail lounge, whose name alludes to the pair’s complementary but seemingly opposite bartending styles, is based on a cheeky and retro 1980s theme – introducing a unique concept to the current market which can be described as a reimagining of the future from the past. The service is fast-paced and energetic with a particular focus on engaging with guests — something not typically found in the city’s current bar and lounge offerings.

Headed up by Dubai’s local Italian stallion, Marco Corallo, and located just off the elegant lobby of the brand-new Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai, Laurel Bar is the newest addition to Dubai’s budding cocktail scene. Marco has pulled out all the stops and created a menu called Colours and Perception – inspired by how the human brain perceives colour and how new flavour profiles could create a sensation of taste to match those perceptions. They’re intentionally keeping a shortlist of 10 cocktails on the menu, but they already have around 62 homemade ingredients. The other unique point of the bar is that the entire concept is destroyed and rebuilt every six months keeping guests, and everyone else, on their toes.

Schneider and Gokan have created a dual menu consisting of eight pairs of signature cocktails, each revolving around a specific flavour profile, and featuring a version from each bartender. Additional classics like Highballs will also have a place in the collection.

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above and right: maybe sammy

Maybe Sammy

Tayer + Elementary

Sydney, Australia instagram.com/maybe_sammy_sydney/

London, UK Opening spring 2019

If Marvel Studio’s did bartending they’d probably create Maybe Sammy. Featuring bartending super stars Martin Hudak, Andrea Gualdi and Balazs Molnar – with the collective experience of an awardwinning bartending team hand-selected from some of the best bars in the world – you’ll find the level of service you’d expect from a high-end hotel bar, an interior influenced by 1950s Hollywood and Vegas glamour and a cocktail list that oozes elegance. Maybe Sammy is here and he’s ready to play.

To say that cocktail lovers have been waiting for news of Alex Kratena and Monica Berg’s new venue is an understatement. It’s been one of the most talked about projects in drinks circles around the world. Little wonder really. It’s been almost three years since Alex left the Artesian bar to dramatic effect soon after hitting the top spot in the World’s 50 Best Bars Awards for the fourth year in a row and while he and Monica have been busy on projects ever since, they've finally got the green light for the bar of their dreams.

Eight signature cocktails lead the main drinks list, all a modern interpretation of a classic cocktail, delivered with a theatrical flair. Each has been named after a favourite Rat Pack haunt – including the showstopper Circus Circus.

Think classic elegance with a splash of extravagance.

So what’s in store? Don’t worry, there’s plenty enough to keep everyone happy. For the all-day, casual diners and drinkers there’s Elementary, visible from the street through dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows. On the menu: seasonal cocktails from Taptails, beer and wine, plus refillable coffee for customers working in the space throughout the day, tea and a delicious selection of snacks.

Quaint London, UK Opening spring 2019 As far as prestigious jobs in the drinks industry go, head bartender at the historic American Bar at The Savoy comes pretty much at the top of the list. So it takes something very special for someone to hang up that famous white jacket. In Erik Lorincz’s case, it was prompted by the opportunity to open his own bar.

The 55-seater venue, downstairs at MoMo’s in London’s Heddon Street, will take inspiration from the North African flavour of the main restaurant but will feature English seasonal ingredients. “It’s going to be an unusually old fashioned, very elegant bar and I can’t wait for it to open,” says Erik.

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Tayēr is where the those who hanker after a little cocktail wizardry will be bagsying a seat. Here’s where the team will be mixing up a storm with their innovative creations – all using seasonal ingredients. Not to say that there will be any rock and roll shenanigans going on here – everyone from kitchen to wait staff, will have input in the menu.

And of course, there’s a lab where the team will work on recipes and techniques but in the evenings all traces of the tech stuff will be packed away. Instead the space will be used for private hire and open up to guests on busy nights. Of which we predict there will be many.

IN-ternational

jitterbug sallon, amsterdam

The Jitterbug Saloon Amsterdam, Netherlands thejitterbugsaloon.com

Paloma Cantina St. Petersburg, Russia instagram.com/paloma.cantina/

In the days of high-end openings and sweeping conceptual statements, The Jitterbug Saloon aims to swing the pendulum in completely the opposite direction – just as the jitterbug dance was a disruptive force of nature that defied the trends of its own day.

Defining themselves as strictly anti-concept, the team here refuse to be pigeon-holed into a specific genre of bar. Located in a venue that was once a jazz bar, The Jitterbug Saloon pays homage to the dancing trends of the 1950s and fuses it with the energy of the 1980s. A bar where Midori and Jamaican rum share a listing and live jazz is followed up by Depeche Mode.

The menu is divided into three sections – Jitterbugs, Wannabes and Saloon Classics – each with its own theme and ideology. ‘Jitterbugs’ are original cocktails from the house, ‘Wannabes’ are described as revamped classics the house way and ‘Saloon Classics’ are from days gone past.

This new project from the team that created El Copitas Bar – the most award-winning bar in Eastern Europe – will be open seven days a week, all day, with no prior reservation needed. Guests will be offered mixed drinks with Latin American spirits from world-class bar staff at night, and down-to-earth Mexican breakfasts during the day. The team behind the canteen plans to create a powerful school of Mexican hospitality, with regular residencies from Latin American chefs and bartenders.

The philosophy behind Paloma Cantina is 15 Second Mixology – each drink will take no more than 15 seconds to make, and the remaining time will be spent focusing on the guest and their needs.

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IN-sight

Last word Perfectly poised You’ve got the trolley, now it’s time to make some room in your crib for a cocktail chair. Lush dark velvet is the way to go – the lower, the rounder the shape, the better.

Left: Duke chair in Zinnia velvet and dark oak; right: Fitz chair in Topaz velvet and dark oak; Blaise side table, all swooneditions.com

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