The Cutthroat Journal Issue #10

Page 1

B A R B E R

$14.95 AUD $16.95 NZD

ISSUE #TEN SPRING 2016

T R A D E

J O U R N A L

// m e n ' s

c u l t u r e


2


A HISTORY ETCHED IN MUD 3


in this issue

COnTenTS 10 The King Of Gin

Jimbo's Ramble JAMES Holder - editor-in-chief

28

WHEN YOU GO TO THE BARBERSHOP, YOU REALLY CAN HAVE GUY TALK.

Muhle's mountaino u s tale

SOME OF IT IS ABSURD AND RIDICULOUS. SOME OF IT IS VERY SERIOUS AND NEEDED, BUT ALL OF IT TEACHES YOUNG MEN HOW TO GROW INTO

6

B L E E D I NG E D GE PRO D U CTS

34 Pau l L am b er t E y es on NZ

THE REGULARS

THE TYPE OF MEN THE COMMUNITY NEEDS.

C

heers to us for hitting those sweet double digits, issue 10, baby! I hear a lot about guy talk, about real talk and about how we need to have it. The barbershop is the space for that, and it’s a space I’m privileged to work in every day. But there are other spaces where men can talk. I recently read that the biggest killer of men under 45 is suicide.

0 6 Bleeding Edge Products 6 9 Cutting Culture

The #ItsOkToTalk campaign has lit up social media with its message supporting men’s mental health.

43 T y son B eck

It started with Irish rugby league forward Luke Ambler a er his brotherin-law Andy Roberts killed himself earlier this year. It moved Ambler to start Andy’s Man Club, a group with its origins in Halifax

4

Killer Mike, Grammy winner, entrepreneur.

that spread across social media via the #ItsOkToTalk campaign. The concept is simple. Post a selfie while doing the okay sign with your hand, along with the hashtag #ItsOkayToTalk and tag five mates to do the same. I reckon it’s that celebrities and ordinary blokes like the Adelaide University Gridiron club, the Burnside Country Fire Association and the Footy Show’s own Beau Ryan have taken up the cause that matters most. It’s probably why you snapped yourself doing the sign and nominated your mates. It’s how something goes viral in the only positive way. It’s what gets guys talking for real. On the realness, we’re stoked to bring you issue 10 of CTJ.


ISSUE 10

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

James (Jimbo) Holder jimbo@thecutthroatjournal.com EDITOR

Ben Cooper Phone +61 488 088 530 ben@thecutthroatjournal.com PUBLISHER

Sean Edwards sean@thecutthroatjournal.com ART director

B e H i N d

THE

S C e N e S

Sean Edwards - Publisher of the CUTTHROAT JOURNAL IT’S BEEN A PACKED YEAR OF VISITING BARBER BUSINESSES THROUGH AMERICA’S MIDWEST, NEW YORK, LONDON AND SINGAPORE. I RECENTLY HAD SOME FUN CHAIR TIME IN DETROIT WHERE I GOT TO HANGOUT WITH SOME PRETTY COOL GUYS FROM KINGSFIELD GROOMING WHICH HAS BECOME A SANCTUARY FOR THE LOCAL NFL TEAM, THE LIONS.

T

here has been a noticeable shi as many professional sportsmen around the world proudly display great cuts from our clever barbers on and off the field. Being the barber of a pro athlete is a great opportunity to put your skills in the spotlight, so make sure next time they’re in your chair you grab a few happy snaps for Instagram to help promote your business and get a few more punters through your door. (Most sports stars are down to earth enough that they won’t mind being asked to participate in this style of marketing.) Last month I got to see firsthand how the London barber industry is gaining momentum as many young guys move away from salons to traditional barbering establishments. I love that most cities around the world now have trendy areas and busy streetscapes where you can find great barbers. Australia is still the only county I see doing walk ins. It is always a debatable subject but taking bookings and appointments in your barber business makes more sense when you are running a tight ship and have a limited

Joey Dable Twominds Creative joey@twomindscreative.com.au Business manager

David Stark Phone +61 411 655 411 david@thecutthroatjournal.com Gr aphic Designer

Roxanna Chan roxanna@thecutthroatjournal.com PHOTOGR APHy

barber pool to work with. The good thing about the growing technology space is there are a number of new businesses offering good online booking systems that link to an app on your smartphone. These systems are not that expensive and should help you with rostering of staff and also budget cash flow, getting all spots filled on your daily planner. We are very excited about bringing you new rounds of Barber Wars next year and will be again be collaborating with the successful Meatstock event. This time we will be doing three events in Sydney, Melbourne and Auckland. We are working now with our sponsors and judges to create a gripping competition that will showcase great Antipodean barbers. Barber Wars marks a significant moment for our media business in successfully holding events across two counties. I hope you enjoy this edition of The Cutthroat Journal because it has been a pleasure bringing you barbering content from around the Globe 5

Michael Marchment info@the-mil.com Media

info@thecutthroatjournal.com

Contributors Pete Cagnacci Ben Cooper Dan Dixon Paul Lambert Alan Rix

S T A Y

C O N N E C T E D

No part of this publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written consent of the publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material is created by Cutthroat and its contributors, including text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from public domain like social media sites we agree are not the property of the Cutthroat Journal, and in all cases media permission has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement. The content and views expressed in this journal by individuals and the Cutthroat Journal are provided in good faith as information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of the information provided. The Cutthroat Journal takes no responsibility for any action taken by others as a result of the content of this site.


BLEEDING

H o t To wel Ca bi net Introducing the Hot Towel Cabinet for traditional hot towel shaves. Heats to 80 degrees and includes a UV steriliser. Available Now.

EDGE

WWW.BARBERCO.COM.AU

GR AVE BE FORE SH AVE CAR AMEL MOC H A BEARD oil Contains all natural ingredients that condition, moisturize, and strengthen those precious beard hairs promoting healthy growth! This product is also designed to condition the skin under your beard preventing dandruff and flaking to keep your beard life comfortable...the way it should be!

Anchor do wn cla ssi c hold po ma de Hand-made on the Northern Beaches of NSW, Anchor Down Classic Hold is cra ed from all-natural ingredients including Aussie beeswax, shea butter and nourishing oils. With a clean, masculine fragrance, this traditional pomade provides a waterproof hold that withstands the stormiest of seas. Perfect for creating sharp styles in fine to medium hair with a deep gloss, for a classic look. Won’t harden or dry out, so is restylable throughout the day, and will wash out easily with everyday shampoo.

WWW.DUDEHUT.COM.AU

WWW.ANCHORDOWNPOMADE.COM

REUZEL Da i ly Sha mpo o & Co ndi ti o ner

Captain Fa wcett's B eard B al m This surely is the veritable icing on the cake for the hirsute man about town! Following naturally on from the hugely popular Ricki Hall ‘Booze & Baccy’ Beard Oil & Moustache Wax comes this rather magnificent Beard Balm. A unique fusion of 5 base creams and exotic waxes along with 10 essential oils, qualify this handmade pomade as a simply must have addition to any gentleman’s grooming arsenal.

The new Reuzel Daily shampoo and conditioner are both invigorating and hardworking and work perfectly to degrease hair and remove product buildup. Infused with the renowned Tonic Blend of Peppermint, Witch Hazel, Nettle Leaf, Rosemary and Horsetail Root, these botanical infusions work on any hair type and are ideal for frequent use. The combination of ingredients makes them effective cleansers while providing the scalp with moisturising benefits that cool and stimulate. RRP: $29.95each WWW.REUZELPOMADE.COM

SALES@BARBERBRANDS.COM.AU

6


BLEEDING

EDGE

Sterli ng Bay Rum Range

Our industrial strength CLASSIC POMADE is America’s strongest holding water-based pomade. With an even and smooth application, the CLASSIC POMADE also allows you to adjust the hold strength depending on the amount of water in your hair.

A er the success of Sterling BayRum Lotion Sterling have created the newest addition to their BayRum range, BayRum Oil. The lotion is based on an original 1900’s formula and is used as an a ershave astringent. BayRum Oil keeps the traditional blend of bay and secret spices and adds citrus. The essential oils in these products were carefully chosen to moisturise skin and facial hair but leave no oily residue. Sterling BayRum is part of the full sterling apothecary range. All sterling products are made in Sydney and available in Store.

SALES@BARBERBRANDS.COM.AU

STERLINGHAIR@GMAIL.COM

Imper ial Cl assic Pom ade

O 'Do uds w ater ba sed po ma de

Th e b earded chap N at u r al D eodor ant

This water based Pomade is revolutionary in its versatility. From straight and fine hair to thick and curly hair, this pomade can handle it all. Use one scoop for a loose look, two scoops for a more refined look, and three scoops to slick it back.

Taking care of the beard under your arms is just as important as the one on your face. The first non-beard product from The Bearded Chap, the military spec 100% natural deodorant is Aluminium Free & made right here in Australia and comes in refreshing Organic Lemon Myrtle scent or classic Spice. To become a retailer of The Bearded Chap grooming range,visit our website and complete our retailer application or Call +61467 BEARDS.

SALES@BARBERBRANDS.COM.AU

WWW.THEBEARDEDCHAP.COM

C loon ey Club We have created the highest quality home application men’s hair colour. They worked closely with a world leading Italian colour company to formulate something new. Resulting in a product with no harmful acids, ammonia or parabens, ensuring healthier hair & scalp. Natural ingredients & conditioning agents leave your hair feeling better and smelling great. They also simplified the application process by including a new tube design, fitted washable nitrile gloves, a microfiber pouch and five simple steps (including finishing with a whisky). All parts being recyclables and the product is biodegradable.

WWW.CLOONEYCLUB.COM

7


BLEEDING

EDGE

Elega nce plus Sha vi ng Gel Elegance Shaving Gel, available in 6 different scents. Perfect for edge ups and hard parts. Dispenses as a Clear Gel for Easy Visibility, Non-Skin Irritating, No Hot Towel Needed, Provides a Smooth and Clean Shave, Skin Moisturizing, Refreshing Fragrances.

WWW.BARBERCO.COM.AU

Groo m li ke the ki ng Am eri ca n Crew Fi ber High hold with low shine. Fiber-like, resinous product helps thicken, texturize and increase fullness to hair. Provides a strong, pliable hold with a matte finish. Works wells in short hair, 1-3 inches in length.

WWW.AMERICANCREW.COM

Wa hl 5 sta r di si nfecta nt jar The Wahl disinfectant jar is ideal for sterilising your equipment. Fill the jar with sterilising fluid and dip your equipment such as brushes or combs inside. Then, remove and scrub and allow to dry.

Wah l Bar ber D uo The Five Star Legend® and Detailer® comprise the most coveted duo of barber tools on the market today. Each offering a distinct purpose, working side by side for ultimate results.

WWW.WAHL.COM.AU WWW.WAHL.COM.AU

8


9 BLEEDING

EDGE


KI NG GI N

World leader mike enright

10


THE FRESH FACED YOUNG MAN WALKED OUT THE GATES OF ALL HALLOWS CATHOLIC HIGH SCHOOL IN 1980S LANCASHIRE, ENGLAND WITH NO IDEA OF THE JOURNEY AHEAD. OVER THE NEXT THREE DECADES HE WOULD CHANGE THE FACES OF TWO OF THE WORLD’S OLDEST AND NOBLEST PROFESSIONS, BARBERING AND BARTENDING.

W

ith Sydney’s The Barber Shop and The Barber Shop at Barangaroo he has created new levels of sophistication for gentlemen, while also catering to the finest tastes at The Barber’s Shop’s speakeasy bar and Barangaroo’s Gin & It. His dedication to

“Never could have predicted that I’d end up running two barbershops and a bar, not in a million years. “It’s good to be in the barber business right now. The cra of the bartender and barber are quite similar in that they’re both old skills. I feel quite lucky to be in a position where I can

I’m not that keen on the bay rum scent used in barbershops and thought ‘wouldn’t it be cool if we could do a gin scent?’ and it went from there. I spent a lot of time to name it and did research into my family history, even got the family crest on the label.

I’M BRINGING OUT A GIN SCENTED HAND SOAP AND HAIR PASTE. THE IDEA STARTED BECAUSE I’M NOT THAT KEEN ON THE BAY RUM SCENT USED IN BARBERSHOPS AND THOUGHT ‘WOULDN’T IT BE COOL IF WE COULD DO A GIN SCENT?’ AND IT WENT FROM THERE. I SPENT A LOT OF TIME TO NAME IT AND DID RESEARCH INTO MY FAMILY HISTORY, EVEN GOT THE FAMILY CREST ON THE LABEL.

cocktails, in particular gin, led him to be crowned bar operator of the year at the Australian Bar Awards in 2014 and he was this year named on Australian Bartender’s most influential list. He is Michael ‘Mikey’ Enright and this is his story. “I le school and went into hairdressing, doing my certificates with Headlines in Southport before getting involved in the pub business. Then I completed a bachelor of arts with honours in marketing and design at the University of Central Lancashire, and then moved into cocktails bars and off to London.

be part of their returns. “I’m very passionate about the barber industry: I never imagined I’d be in at all a er I le , so coming back and trying to understand the culture has been interesting. I’m keen on really trying to keep those old methods alive and getting guys to use them and get good consistency, and I’m lucky to be doing that while mixing in the bar space as well. “At the moment I’m getting close to delivering a project which has been a while in the making. I’m bringing out a gin scented hand soap and hair paste. The idea started because 11

“I started drinking gin because I had a landlady who used to drink a lot of gin and tonics. Once I found out more about it I learned there’s a lot of beautiful history and my attachment has grown as I go deeper and deeper. I find gin absolutely fascinating. Having said that, I still drink everything else. “It’s going to be very interesting to see what talented barbers migrate – bringing with them different skills and techniques – to Australia over the next year or so as the barber scene and its opportunities expand.


THE BARBECUE AND MUSIC FESTIVAL

t o f i n d o u t m o r e v i s i t w w w. m e at s t o c k . c o m . au P R O U D L Y

S U P P O R T E D

12

B Y


20 i 7

• MELBOURNE • SYD KLAND NEY C U A

Have you got what it takes? Australia and nz’s best barbers

LIVE ON STAGE to find out mo re su b s c rib e t o o u r e - n e ws w w w.thecut throatjournal.c om/e-news

13


BarberOLOGY B ri ta i ns b e s t b a r ber cr o w n ed

F o u n d e r

A d a m

THE WORD HAS ARRIVED FROM THE BEAUTIFUL ISLES AND THE BEST BARBERSHOP HAS BEEN CROWNED AT THE UNITED KINGDOM’S PREMIER ANNUAL BARBER AWARDS.

14

G o r e


WE ALWAYS STRIVE TO INSPIRE AND INNOVATE AND LIKE TO THINK OF OURSELVES AS LEADERS IN OUR FIELD IT’S ALWAYS A GREAT FEELING WHEN THE HARD WORK PAYS OFF. IT’S MORE REMARKABLE GIVEN BARBEROLOGY OPENED 12 MONTHS PRIOR.

Birmingham’s Barberology – known for its quality haircuts and cutthroat shaves – was awarded Barbershop of the Year at the award ceremony on June 26 at Barber Connect, Celtic Manor Resort. Barberology’s founder and chief barber Adam Gore said his business was chuffed to win the award from the UK’s biggest barbering convention. “We always strive to inspire and innovate and like to think of ourselves as leaders in our field – it’s always a great feeling when the hard work pays off.” The achievement is more remarkable given Barberology opened 12 months prior. Gore described his business as “a modernised classic barber” and a place where customers old and new are greeted by a friendly and playful team of skilled professionals, who know exactly how to execute the best cut

15

and shave for any given chair occupier through contemporary, original or classic looks. It’s the attention to detail and small touches which make Barberology the best place to go for male maintenance - from a cold beer offered on arrival and the comfortable yet cool and quirky set-up to the fantastic range of grooming products on offer for post-visit upkeep. All Barberology staff are trained to a very high standard and handpicked for their expertise. The brand specialises in Italian style techniques with a Barberology twist through the luxury services provided by the team, while the services involve a consultation prior to initiation, advice on maintenance and styling plus indulgent touches including use of hot towels and premium products.


There e xis t s a p l a ce w h e r e c us t o m m o to r c y c l e s a re o n di s pla y , y et t here’s n a ry a c hrome t ri b a l pa t t ern, bux om a n d o ra n g e g l o w i ng tr a d e g i r l , o r o ve r z ea lous b i g b ra n ds t ry i n g t o s hoo t t hei r product down y ou r gul l et s . I n s t e a d , rem o ve th e s t e r e o ty p i c a l s ta lwa rt s t ha t en t er y o ur mi n d when y o u t hi n k ‘b i k e sho w’ and repla c e t h e m w it h u ni q u e bui l d s , bo und l e s s t a st y f oo d, lo ca l b eers a n d a met ri c shi t - t o n n e of go od music.

16


THINGS KICKED OFF WITH AN EARLY MORNING RIDE THROUGH THE ROYAL NATIONAL PARK BEFORE THE ROARING PARADE OF MORE THAN 250 BIKES ARRIVED AT THE VENUE AS THE GATES OPENED AND THE RIDERS BEGAN TO PARK THEIR BIKES UP.

on June 12 and took over an entire Marrickville street to put on the biggest street party of the year.

he Throttle Roll Street Party is Sydney’s melting pot of bikes, styles, genres and sub-genres that is open for everyone from the seasoned biker to those with no riding experience (or interest in bikes) at all.

T

A er being hosted at Marrickville’s Vic on the Park Hotel since its birth in 2013, Throttle Roll has grown each year as more punters coming along to check out what all the ruckus and fuss is about. And due to the event’s growing popularity, this year Throttle Roll stepped it up a notch

All the staples that have made Throttle Roll the custom motorcycle juggernaut were still there along with plenty of other things to make sure the day provided for everyone. Things kicked off with an early morning ride through the Royal National Park before the roaring parade of more than 250 bikes arrived at the venue as the gates opened and the riders began to park their bikes up. Riders from all walks of life were present and showing a mix of bikes that ticked boxes for all. The signature ‘Wall of Scaffolding’ was on display as always, showing off some of the best home and professional builds from across 17

Australia through three levels of custom goodness. Everything from old school Choppers to high performance race bikes were displayed in the shining sun for the delight of fans. It’s not just all about the bikes in this very community driven event, with an impressive list of amazing Australian bands playing tunes throughout the day, local beer from Young Henry’s quenching the thirst of the punters and boosting their confidence enough for them to tackle the wild ways of the mechanical bucking bull. The sun set behind Sydney’s skyline a er a full day of bike loving, but the partying didn’t stop until well into the night. Until next time. Words and pics by Pete Cagnacci


Photo courtesy of Thomas Wielecki

Legendary

TOUGHNESS Jeep’s 75 years on the road

In July 1940, the US military told local automakers that it was looking for a “light reconnaissance vehicle” to replace the Army’s motorcycle and modified Ford Model-T vehicles. he Army invited 135 manufacturers to bid on production, and developed a lengthy specification list for the vehicle, including the following: • 272kg load capacity • Wheelbase less than 75 inches • Height less than 36 inches • Smooth-running engine from 5 to 90km/h miles per hour • Rectangular-shaped body • Four-wheel drive with two-speed transfer case • Fold-down windshield • Three bucket seats • Blackout and driving lights • Gross vehicle weight below 590kg At first, Willys-Overland and American Bantam Car Manufacturing Company were the only two companies answering the call. Soon, however, Ford Motor Company entered the picture, and competition began among the three over which company would receive the lucrative government contract. Each company produced prototypes for testing in record time. Bantam’s chief engineer, along with a team of Bantam executives, worked out a design, and the company built its field car within 49 days. Willys-Overland Vice President of

T

Engineering Delmar G. Roos designed the Willys Quad. Ford developed its Model GP (General Purpose), known as the Pygmy, which was powered by an adapted Ford/Ferguson tractor. Each company delivered its prototype to the Army in the summer of 1940 and received approval to build 70 sample vehicles. The Army took possession of these vehicles in November 1940 at Camp Holabird, Md. Each of the three designs exceeded the Army’s specification of 590kg, but the Army soon realised that limit was far too low and raised it for the next round of vehicles. The Army issued the next round of contracts in March 1941. Bantam was to produce 1,500 Model 40 BRC vehicles, Ford would build 1,500 modified and improved GP Pygmies and Willys would build 1,500 Quads. Further testing and evaluation led to the Army’s selection of Willys vehicle as the primary manufacturer. With modifications and improvements, the Willys Quad became the MA, and later the MB. But the Army, and the world, came to know it as the Jeep. Some claimed that the name came from the slurring of the letters ‘GP,’ the military abbreviation for ‘General Purpose”. Others say the vehicle was named for a popular character named ‘Eugene the Jeep’ in the Popeye cartoon strip.

18

Whatever its origin, the name entered into the global lexicon. The Willys MA featured a gearshift on the steering column, low side body cutouts, two circular instrument clusters on the dashboard and a hand brake on the left side. Willys struggled to reduce the weight to the new Army specification of 979kg. Items removed in order for the MA to reach that goal were reinstalled on the next-generation MB resulting in a final weight of approximately just 181kg above the specifications. Willys-Overland would build more than 368,000 vehicles, and Ford, under license, some 277,000, for the US Army. The rugged, reliable olive-coloured vehicle would forever be known for helping win a world war. Willys trademarked the ‘Jeep’ name after the war and planned to turn the vehicle into an off-road utility vehicle for the farm – the civilian Universal Jeep. One of Willys’ slogans at the time was “The Sun Never Sets on the Mighty Jeep,” and the company set about making sure the world recognised Willys as the creator of the vehicle. This year, as a tribute to this diamond anniversary celebration, Jeep has created distinctive, 75th Anniversary special-editions of its Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Renegade and Wrangler models.


19


20


21


22


23


24


25


26


27


mountainous

TALE

28


THE ORE MOUNTAINS HAVE SEPARATED MEN AND COUNTRIES FOR ALMOST A THOUSAND YEARS. THE KLINOVEC AND FICHTELBERG PEAKS RISE MORE THAN A KILOMETRE ABOVE SEA LEVEL AND TOWER OVER THE BOHEMIAN FOREST. ON ONE SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS IS GERMANY WHILE THE MODERN CZECH REPUBLIC LIES ON THE OTHER, AND THE REGION’S DEVELOPMENT WAS CRITICAL DURING THE BRONZE AGE AS IT’S WHERE THE MINING AND METALLURGY INDUSTRIES WERE BORN. t is not surprising that this place of were forced to sell their businesses for a museum featuring more than 2000 exhibits great growth and human advancement low price in April 1972. Political changes in that showcase the utility and luxury of is home to one of the most important 1989 allowed Hans-Jürgen to reprivatise shaving. families and stories in men’s grooming. the company the following year when it was Christian and his family are proud of Otto Johannes Müller returned from war renamed Hans-Jürgen Müller KG. Mühle’s look at shaving accessories from a captivity in 1945 and established a business Hans-Jürgen’s sons, Christian and Andreas, different perspective. from a very basic wash kitchen. With barely now run the company with Christian saying “We li it up from the traditional, any funds, premises or old fashioned way to a modern, materials he founded contemporary level, driven by a unique company THE BRAND WILL INTRODUCE STRAIGHT RAZORS TO THE design. We want our tools not to using animal hair to M A R K E T T H AT A R E M A D E O N S I T E , W E H A V E T E A M E D only be practical but also see them make the finest men’s U P W I T H YO U N G G E R M A N D E S I G N E R S O N A P R O M I S I N G as a lifestyle product.” grooming brushes, as PROJECT WITH THE FIRST OUTCOME BEING THE HEXAGON What does the next 60 years well as developing small LINE OF INDUSTRIAL DESIGN SHAVING ACCESSORIES. hold for the company? “We are essential items including working on a number of exiting lights. new products for this year and early next,” The family continued working in Eastern it was his father’s “power of endurance” that Christian says.”The brand will introduce Germany, and not even a fire in 1949 which was the key to the company’s success. straight razors to the market that are made on destroyed the entire factory could stop the “I believe without his contributions we site, we have teamed up with young German Mühle story. By 1963 the company was would not be here,” Christian says. designers on a promising project with the first exporting to 36 countries and employed In 1995 the company celebrated its 50th outcome being the HEXAGON line of industrial around 40 people, with Hans-Jürgen taking anniversary and a decade of further hard work over from his father when the patriarch died and expansion saw more celebration. By 2005 design shaving accessories.” Christian says in December 1965. the company was exporting 30 per cent of there are more products to come, but he Under pressure from the state, the family its products, and the next year established a “cannot be too precise at this stage.”

I

29


30


31


32


The r ider s p ush f ur t her up t he r o a d a s th e y sear ch for t he r ight sp o t t o make c a m p. They co me t o a halt n ear a beach wi th a tr eacher o us n ame, un pack in g an d cr a ck i ng op en dr in k s as l aughter an d l igh t spi l l o ver t he l in e of bl ack bik es. The r i der s a r e member s of Fo xy Fuel er s, a wo men ’ s r i di ng cr ew that embr ace al l thin gs that g o wi th cust o m an d cl assic mo t or c ycl e s.

T

‘big’ tourist attractions. It was terrifying and incredibly beautiful and fun, and it wasn’t until a few hours into the second day that I actually my first breath while riding. The fresh, crisp mountain air… I’ll never forget that moment of thinking “Shit, this is incredible. I love this.”

Where did your moto journey begin? I was always a bit keen on motorbikes but that keenness never came to fruition, mainly because the people I knew who rode were on sportsbikes which aren’t really my thing. It wasn’t until I met my partner Stephen Broholm – who was building an XS650 bobber at the time – that I got into it, probably because he was the first partner to be supportive and not tell me to jump on the back as a pillion. He was really keen for me to get my licence, which I did and within a month we went on this pretty big roadtrip around NSW visiting all of the

And that led to formation of the Foxy Fuelers? I kept having conversation with some of the girls involved with Sydney Café Racers and we were all excited about the idea of having a support network. And the conversations kept happening but nothing else did so I thought ‘I’ll do it and run it’. Now it’s exploded into this thing where we hang out and ride, we have little training sessions, we practice together and it’s great to see girls just relax for the first time while riding. I know the first time I went for a ride all I wanted to do was spew – I could barely concentrate on anything else – so it was really important that I

hey’ve been led north on this trip along the NSW north coast by Nicolette Skobier who founded the group in late 2014 so women could get their hands dirty working, riding and celebrating moto life. Skobier broke away from the group briefly to give us the lowdown.

33

was supported. We’re seeing girls who wouldn’t even hop on the back of a bike before become confident and solid female riders. It’s pretty great. What’s next for the Foxy Fuelers? A few of the girls are real ski bunnies but I don’t generally organise too many weekend trips in winter. We’ll be heading off once the weather gets warmer to do a few more trips including one called ‘Steel and Stars’ where we’ll go on a ride somewhere like this and camp in the bush, drink beer and tell stories, that kind of thing. Overall, we’re about women supporting each other to get their hands dirty doing customisations themselves – a few of us have done a group workshop in basic maintenance so we’re not relying on others to help us fix our bikes. It’s nice to have that knowledge and more importantly it’s something that can never be taken away.


Paul Lambert’s passion for photography started as a child when he’d pour over the rich and how it inspires his imagination and creativity. In the last decade photography has the perfect shot.

His work captures people’s curiosity with their city of Auckland, faces 34


Arts

PAUL LAMBERT EYES ACROSS NEW ZEALAND

visuals in Thrasher, Runner’s World and National Geographic, inspired by the still image consumed him entirely, taking him into barbershops and keeping him out at night hunting for reflected from the shadows and lit by slight splashes of colour. 35


S

S T R E E T H A D O W S

GOLDEN

36

VIEW


Here he details shooting in barbershops and how photography has changed the way he lives and views the world. feel like barbershops are the equivalent of a male beauty salon where a guy can get pampered and feel good about his appearance but still retain his masculinity.

I

constantly creating my own projects to push myself further.”

personal projects I’m making images for.

“Living in the city is so different to where I’ve lived most my life but I love it. I can walk out my door and get coffee or Japanese, walk to the art gallery to get out of my own head or just sit and watch the world going by, literally.

I love documenting life’s events as they happen where there is real human emotion and drama. I love to make images that tell stories, or force the viewer to use their imagination and make up their own story from what they see in my personal and documentary work.”

commercial or studio shoots and 50% on my own projects. I carry my camera with me wherever I go and I always have two or three

the day but there are always people around at night and the lights, shadows and reflections turn.”

The best barbershops just feel like a relaxed space where guys can hang out and chat while getting taken care of. There’s always a bit of “Photography is constantly teaching me to light hearted blokey banter going or perhaps look at the world in different ways depending “Photography gives me the opportunity to a few shots of liquor being be present in shared, and the walls are places that I’ve crammed with interesting “LIVING IN THE CITY IS SO DIFFERENT TO WHERE I’VE LIVED always dreamed of, and quirky objects that make M O S T M Y L I F E B U T I LO V E I T. I C A N WA L K O U T M Y D O O R A N D whether it be right for some fun shots.” G E T C O F F E E O R J A PA N E S E , WA L K T O T H E A R T G A L L E RY T O G E T amongst one of my O U T O F M Y O W N H E A D O R J U S T S I T A N D WAT C H T H E W O R L D “The customers, mirrors favourite bands as G O I N G BY, L I T E R A L LY. and the small spaces make they play, or face shooting in barbershops a to face metres challenge, but at the same from a Maori on the light or the angle or customer. I time these are also the best parts about haka performed by 50 staunch men. Another hope I’ll ever stop learning on the job: for shooting there as well.” day I might be surrounded by beautiful half me learning is fun and it’s in my nature to naked models and then documenting a silent “I moved to Auckland from Queenstown a be always questioning what I know and demonstration by Falun Dafa. When I get to couple of years ago to pursue photography expanding my knowledge. There are always record all these things as they happen, it further. I had been working in the ski industry new techniques to experiment with and new doesn’t feel like work.” for a long time and was burnt out from styles evolving. And I’m always coming up working and travelling too much: travelling for with concepts for new projects which force me “I’ve been working on The Day Before work constantly was different than travelling to learn or think of different ways to shoot.” Tomorrow project over the last few months. for exploration’s sake. Most street photography seems to be done in “These days I shoot maybe 50% planned I had a year studying photography full time and knew I was doing what I loved. Now I’m slowly building up regular clients and

37


38

Image courtesy of Joseph Semaan, Joey Scandizzo Salon. Photography: Andrew O’Toole


A R E

S U P E R H E R O

M O V I E S

D E A D ?

THE FIRST REVIEWS FOR SUICIDE SQUAD WERE NOT GOOD BUT IT HARDLY MATTERED: THE FILM SET AN AUGUST OPENING WEEKEND RECORD IN NORTH AMERICA OF $135 MILLION. IMMEDIATELY AFTERWARDS, GIZMODO RAN A STORY UNDER THE HEADER ‘SUICIDE SQUAD SETS BOX OFFICE RECORD BECAUSE WE DON’T DESERVE BETTER MOVIES’. arner Bros. don’t deserve to make back the reported $800 million they are a er, not least because they funded Jared Leto’s career suicide as The Joker. Leto mishits an iconic character and is misused when dropped in at

W

P O M A D E S

F I L M

SLICK AND SEXY AND ON THE SCREEN THANKS TO THE COEN BROS.

stories and flashes of humour, though audiences flock just to see big boppers fight each other on screen, and we’ll even buy the merchandise if there’s some decent dialogue. But maybe the tide is turning. Suicide Squad won’t screen in China – the world’s second

here would pomades be without the Coen brothers? Probably not on as many slicked back heads, that’s for sure. It was Joel and Ethan Coen’s 2000 film O Brother, Where Art Thou? that made pomades mainstream again. George Clooney’s turn as the bumbling yet eloquent Ulysses Everett McGill captured laughs and, importantly, memories with his devotion to his pomade of choice. “I’m a Dapper Dan man!” he says when told the vendor only stocks an inferior brand. Everett’s clueless devotion becomes the film’s catchphrase but it marks just another step in the Coens’ commitment to pomades. In 1987 they introduced the world to the styling product via the duck’s tales of Gale and Evelle Snoats (John Goodman and William Forsythe) in Raising Arizona. The Snoats love Royal Crown so much they begin lathering it onto their hair immediately a er tunneling out of prison, though this plays poorly when a bounty hunter uses its scent

W

BUT MAYBE THE TIDE IS TURNING. SUICIDE SQUAD WON’T SCREEN IN CHINA THE WORLD’S SECOND LARGEST MOVIE MARKET BECAUSE IT’S TOO VIOLENT AND TOTALLY DARK.

random moments where it feels false as he leers grotesquely or inexplicably shoots an accomplice in a nightclub. Suicide Squad’s hatchet editing even manages to take the focus off Margot Robbie and Amanda Waller’s stellar performances, and hopefully neither actor’s association with the project impacts their respective rising careers. Returning to Gizmodo’s headline, do we deserve better movies? Even celluloid superhero adventures should at least attempt compelling characters, complex and constantly shi ing

I N

largest movie market – because it’s too violent and tonally dark. The film’s predecessor Batman v Superman made $95 million in China which was its largest total outside the U.S., meaning without China it’s likely Suicide Squad will struggle to make the studio’s desired sum. A er watching the movie I drove home with my younger brother, arguing all the way about hidden meanings and future releases. Superhero movies might struggle for critical praise or exposure in China, but teenage boys couldn’t care less and they’re the ones who’ll rule the world soon.

39

to track them. Hitman Gaear Grimsrud (played by Peter Stormare) didn’t overtly use pomade in 1996’s Fargo but the substance is vital to his character. How else to explain the fear invoked by the peroxided pompadour jutting from Grimsrud’s head? A the do’s influence stretched beyond the screen with Stormare later naming his band Blond From Fargo. Product – we’re assuming pomade based the Coens’ consistence – is also used to define lead characters in two earlier Coen brothers’ films, 1991’s Barton Fink and three years later in The Hudsucker Proxy. Everett McGill’s devotion to his brand of pomade may have inspired laughs in the cinema yet it’s on the street where you’ll see its legacy. The next dude you see rocking a perfectly coiffed pompadour is doing it with a pomade brand he chose because it’s a favourite that satisfies every time. Sounds a little like the films of some skilled brothers, doesn’t it?


gr e 40


heads A B N g n i n r u t e d elai The kid from Ad

s s e n at S N O K BEC Meet Tyson Beck, the Australian whose designs are snapped up by the worlds sports stars and commissioned by the NBA. he action on the screen is intense in this late 1990s Adelaide living room. Huge men are bashing through one another as they surge across the boards, the ball flung through the air with pinpoint accuracy as point after point rains down through the baskets. Two and three-pointers are scored from lay-ups, jumps, fades, frees and hook shots and veteran sports broadcaster Verne Lundquist is dropping “Oh My Gosh” and “Oh My Goodness” calls with machine gun frequency. Like Verne, the group of nine-year-olds watching cannot believe the physical audacity in front of them as they play NBA Live 98 on Playstation. Among them is one kid who would remember this as the moment he began his journey to landing contracts with the world’s premier sport bodies.

T

more over

41


There’s never been a better time in history to be a creative and particularly to be a content pusher,” he continues. “Location, age, gender and race are not relevant any more. If you do good work you’ll be found.

Tyson Beck is now 26-years-old with the world at his feet. The South Australian graphic designer and digital artist scored a contract last year to design digital art for the National Basketball Association (NBA), exposing his work to millions of people around the world. He started posting his work online at age 17 to express his love for the LA Lakers and their star Kobe Bryant, and soon the Lakers themselves commissioned his work. This lead to Beck pulling major clients from around the world including FIFA and the NFL, but it was when he met his idol in 2009 that a lifelong dream was realised. He was flown to the city of angels to watch a Lakers game and meet Bryant. “To meet the person I have idolised all of my life and just to be able to meet them through design, just through my work was incredible.” Beck has more than a Kobe crush: he won a competition as the Lakers’ biggest fan due to owning the world’s largest collection of Bryant jerseys which even included gear the shooting guard wore in high school.

42


gr eatness BECKONS

I

t’s a fandom that has focused his talent, yet obsession means nothing without hard work. Beck built his profile over the years by working with NBA players, teams, agencies and companies with the league until October 2014 when he was commissioned to produce an artwork promoting the upcoming 2014/15 season for the ‘Everybody Up’ campaign. This was his first NBA contract. This was it.

“But what I didn’t know was the NBA had reached out to 20 or so creatives like me for this one-off project but were looking to continue to work with only two or three artists throughout the 2014/2015 season and they simply put everyone’s work on Reddit to ask the NBA community which artwork they liked most. I was very fortunate to be one of those who polled at the top. All of us creatives were unaware of this, looking back it was a pretty cool concept for them to filter what their fan base engaged well with into something that could be used in the market on a continuous basis.” There is no repetition in Beck’s colourful and active pieces which is how he has stayed in demand. “I try to switch things up and not be cornered into one style or one look as an artist and designer. So I really appreciate the psuh for ideas and creativity from my clients because that has helped me progress and become more skilled.” Leveraging the NBA’s social media platforms has significantly increased Beck’s profile. “When artwork is published by their accounts it has a reach of over 120 million people, so you can imagine there’s an almost 100 per cent chance my work will get replicated by other designers and other pro sports teams and leagues around the world. The only way to beat that is to be a creator of unique content and artwork and let the others follow.” Beck says his artistic vision always comes from the athlete on the court. “The single greatest influence I have is the athlete’s flair and personality. The last thing I want to do is create a template-drive piece that any athlete could be subbed into; artwork on an individual should really speak about the athlete, and unique work catches the viewer every time. To simplify: a Steph Curry piece involving water or splashes is going to create more sales than just a photo of him slapped on a random background.” What keeps Beck inspired is mentoring and working with 80 designers around the world. “It’s very humbling and strange to wake up and see a handful of notifications on my phone where I’m tagged in photos with my face on a goat’s body.” The ‘goat’ or GOAT is what the fans call the Greatest Of All Time – a huge endorsement in the NBA. “At first I didn’t like it – and I still shy away from compliments – but I find it very humbling and see the light side of it. I’m proud that I can be a source of inspiration for creatives around the world. “There’s never been a better time in history to be a creative and particularly to be a content pusher,” he continues. “Location, age, gender and race are not relevant any more. If you do good work you’ll be found.” Beck laughs when asked which barber he gets his own “good work” done at. “I’m still trying to find the right one, the one to call my local.”

43


DA PP ER GENTS BARBER SHOP

SLIP INTO ESSENDON’S DAPPER GENTS BARBERSHOP FOR A TRIM AND YOU MIGHT BE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HEAR OWNER GORAN GULEVSKI’S TALE OF HIS FATHER COMING TO AUSTRALIA IN THE 1970S WITH NOTHING BUT A SUITCASE. BORIS GULEVSKI HAD NO CHOICE BUT TO WORK IN A FACTORY TO MAKE ENDS MEET, YET HIS PASSION FOR BARBERING NEVER DIED. AND, AS HIS SON WRITES, IT LIVES ON IN THE KEILOR ROAD SHOP.

44


s a youngster I remember watching my father cut hair from our very own garage for family and once word got around, he found himself cutting hair for the entire neighborhood. It wasn’t until 20 years a er his arrival into Australia that my father opened up his own barbershop in Melbourne’s western suburbs.

A

At 19 years of age I started my hairdressing apprenticeship as there was no barbering academy in Australia. I completed my four-year apprenticeship while working in various salons around Melbourne then decided to work alongside my father in his barbershop. A er 10 long years of working together the old man was well and truly due for retirement at ripe old age of 67, so I decided to venture out and open up a new modern age barbershop in one of

45

Melbourne’s café capitals, Essendon. In 2015 the Dapper Gents Barbershop on Keilor Rd was created with the help of Carlos Flores and his amazing team at Studio Equator. From concept design to development of the Dapper brand, together we created a modern image for what is known as an old school profession. It’s the people around you that matter most in any venture. The dream of owning my own barbershop was fulfilled thanks to the support of my wife and three kids, and not only do I love where I work but I love what I do and having the best of both worlds makes it just that little bit more special. Taking risks is crucial in life, but with a little bit of support and creativity anything is possible. We like to believe Dapper Gents Barbershop is where we will see The Rise of the Modern Gent continue well into the future.


JI Mm Y R OD S Sh a v e s aloon | B A R & K I T CHE N

Jim my Rod ’ s Ba r b e r s h o p c o nt i nue s t o deli v er un i que co n cept s t o t he i n dus t ry , i n cludi n g t h e re ce ntl y e s ta bl i s h e d S h a ve S a loo n i n B ri s b a n e C B D , whi c h succ ess f ully co mb i n es t r a d i t i o n a nd i nno va t i o n wi t h t he i n f usi on o f b a r a n d b a rb ersho p.

In 1998, at the young age of 16, Jimmy decided to leave school and immediately commence his Barbering Apprenticeship. In 2003, Jimmy opened his first store in the suburb of Oxley, Brisbane. At present, Jimmy has 13 stores in total, 12 located in Brisbane and 1 in Melbourne, with 3 stores set to open within the next year.

of an ongoing training program for Barbers to ensure the quality and performance of the trade is maintained and remains consistent. Due to rapid growth, Jimmy Rods is currently seeking Senior Barbers that possess a hard work ethic, passion for industry and aspire to involved in a business that is constantly raising the bar and evolving.

Jimmy’s current objective focuses on the implementation 46


47


www.thecutthroatjournal.com

SUBSCRIBE to AUSTRALIA's BARBER SHOp trade journal yearly subscRiption

60

$

4 issues DELIVERED

NEW BLACK LAMB SHAVE GEL Conveniently, it is a clear consistency so when barbering you can still see the ever so important hair line. A barbershop and bathroom must have!

www.thecutthroatjournal.com

Available in 500 ML pump pack for the barber bench.

BOOKINGS for the Summer edition closing soon

TO SUBSCRIBE VISIT

Australian Made. Barber staple. Tell us your tale

Contact: info@blacklamb.com.au Joe Sykes 0402 058 384

GOT A GOOD STORY for the next issue?

www.blacklamb.com.au Follow us on Instagram @blacklambproducts

WWW.THECUTTHROATJOURNAL.COM/CONTRIBUTE

48


49


Bite CLUB

Th e fi rs t ru l e o f B i te C l u b i s m e m b e rs m u s t ta l k a b o u t B i te C l u b . Th e g ro u p w a s e s ta b l i s h e d i n 2 0 1 1 to c re a te a c o m m u ni ty o f s u p p o rt fo r s h a rk a tta c k s u rvi vo rs a nd th e i r fa m i l i e s . P o s t tra u m a ti c s tre s s di s o rde r i s a da i l y re a l i ty fo r s u rvi vo rs a nd fo u nde r D a ve P e a rs o n - w h o ne a rl y l o s t h i s l e ft a rm i n a n a tta c k a t H e a dl a nd B e a c h ne a r C ro w dy H e a d i n 2 0 1 1 - s a y s th e da y s a re e a s i e r w i th th e s u p p o rt o f th o s e w h o h a ve g o ne ri g h t to th e b ri nk .

D AV E P E A R S O N

W

e set up Bite Club because shark attack survivors cop a hiding for the plain fact that they got attacked. As someone who’s experienced it, it’s very surprising to not be attacked by the shark but by people.

there’s no judgement with Bite Club; we just offer support.

about but we also know what recovery and life are about.

“Bite club is really about instigating relationships between people who can help each other. We’ve even got guys who are missing the limbs from non-shark accidents

“We’ve been described as a love group, as a people group. And that’s what we are. Every now and then I’m lucky enough to see two young guys who are really good surfers but got

WE’VE BEEN DESCRIBED AS A LOVE GROUP, AS A PEOPLE GROUP. AND THAT’S WHAT WE ARE. EVERY NOW AND THEN I’M LUCKY ENOUGH TO SEE TWO YOUNG GUYS WHO ARE REALLY GOOD SURFERS BUT GOT ATTACKED AND NOW THEY’RE HELPING EACH OTHER TO GET BACK OUT THERE.

“We seem to always be picking up new members including half a dozen more this year. We saw a bit of a spike a er Mick Fanning was attacked off South Africa in 2015 – people just keep finding us. Some of them are from older attacks including a guy who contacted me recently because he was attacked 30 years ago. They come to us because they’re disillusioned and they’ve been abused and

who have become mates with our members. “We are forming relationships with other men’s groups like Beyond Blue and Soldier On to get some of their members up the coast for a day because we get it. We all suffer post traumatic stress disorder to some extent, and we’re into men’s health because most of us in the group are men and men don’t like talking about bad things. We know what trauma and PTSD are 50

attacked and now they’re helping each other to get back out there. That just makes me stop. “We take the attitude that it’s about living life, not about preparing for the future. This is the life that I have le and I’m going to live it. Every day I wake up in pain because my arm’s hurting from the attack, but even when I’m feeling shitty I’m so glad to be alive. I know today’s a great day and I’m going to be happy today.”


51


{ FEELING}

SOCIAL

S

WHETHER YOU’RE BUILDING YOUR OWN PERSONAL BRAND OR FINDING A WAY TO CONNECT WITH YOUR CLIENTS, SOCIAL MEDIA IS AN ESSENTIAL TOOL, WRITES FLEUR MURPHY.

tart simple You don’t have to be completely across every social media channel – pick one and make it your focus. Think about what works for the people you’re trying to target and choose a platform accordingly. If they’re all Facebook addicts, that’s probably going to be the best place for you to start. If they all want to be Insta-famous, this is your chance to get snap-happy and help them achieve their goals. Know the rules Remember the days of posting a quirky video then sitting back and watching as it went viral? These days, it’s not so simple to get the world to pay attention; you need to know a bit about the dreaded A-word. That’s right, social media algorithms dictate who sees your content – so even if you post your best work every day, it could go completely unnoticed. To give your content a fighting chance, find out when your audience is online and time your posts accordingly. Incorporating video will give you an edge, as will investing in some promoted posts. Always pay close attention to what’s creating the most engagement, and build on this

to build a social strategy that works. Equip yourself Putting your content together doesn’t have to be a slog. A quick search will reveal loads of free apps that will let you snap up a storm. Local Aussie tech-startup Canva lets you create gorgeous images in an instant, and Splice is a great app to help you put together mini-videos complete with captions, background music and special effects. Speaking of equipment, you won’t need much more than your phone – although investing in a decent camera and a tripod won’t hurt either. Make the time Believe it or not, good social media takes planning and time. That seemingly spur-of-themoment post you liked yesterday was probably actually days or even weeks in the making. It might seem like a stretch, but creating a calendar of posts will help you ensure you’ve always got something on hand, ready to post. You can also use apps such as Hootsuite to schedule your social media ahead of time, so it will take care of itself when you get busy. Show off Now it’s finally time to start getting the 52

creative juices flowing. You do some amazing work – show it off and let the world know how awesome you are. About to completely transform someone’s look? Take some before and a er pics. Just finished the fade to end all fades? Show it off from every angle in a short video shot on your smartphone. Getting great feedback from clients? Share it automatically with a tool like Spotlight from Shortcuts. Hook them in A few of your posts have got some traction, what next? Now that you’ve convinced all of your followers how amazing you are, it’s time to hook them in. Make sure you include a link to your website on your social media page, so people can find out more about what you have to offer. Or go one better and let them make a booking straight from your Facebook page. To find out more about the tools that will help you strengthen your business, visit www.shortcuts.com.au/cutthroat. Fleur Murphy is the Marketing Manager at Shortcuts, Australia’s leading so ware provider for the male grooming, hair and beauty industries. She leads Shortcuts’ marketing strategy across social media, print and digital, and gets a kick out of helping businesses get the most out of their technology solutions.


t for the firs s signup

* $39 a WEEK P FREE SETU G IN IN A FREE TR$ SAVE 2000

ES INCLUD

-IN – SELF CHECK NAGER – WALK-IN MA LIST DISPLAY – DIGITAL WAIT RKETING MA – AUTOMATED YSTEM – S.M.A.R.T. S

NEXT LEVEL GET READY TO TAKE YOUR SUCCESS TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH SHORTCUTS. This cutting edge software will help you manage your waitlist and bring in the big bucks. We’re serious, this could be the best investment you ever make.

1300 667 374

shortcuts.com.au/cutthroat sales@shortcuts.com.au

Discounted price available for the first ten people who sign up for Shortcuts and mention this ad. Regular price $49/week. Offer only available for clients who sign up to a three year contract, with a maximum of three staff. Total minimum spend over three years is $6084 (discounted price) or $8339 (regular price). Price includes all Shortcuts S.M.A.R.T. System except BookME, Online CICs and Anywhere.

53


WIngMAN COMEtH { ENTREPRENEURS ON THE GO}

IT CAN BE HARD OUT THERE FOR BLOKES ON THE GO. THIS WAS THE REALITY THAT CONFRONTED JEREMY GREY AND JON GOURLY AS THEY ATTEMPTED TO FIND SOLUTIONS FOR ACTIVE TRAVELLERS AND COMMUTERS.

54


THE TWO MEN HAD GROWN UP RIDING BICYCLES AND WANTED TO KEEP DOING SO BUT WERE SICK OF DRIVING TO WORK ONCE A WEEK TO DROP OFF THEIR SUITS AND SHIRTS. “I THOUGHT ‘THERE’S JUST GOT TO BE A BETTER WAY,’” JEREMY SAYS. HE TELLS US MORE ABOUT HIS AND JON’S JOURNEY SINCE THEY LAUNCHED HENTY IN JULY 2012 WITH THE WINGMAN. I designed a bag to fix the problem and the bag evolved into the Wingman – versatile, all-weather bag that rolls your clothes to prevent them getting creased, and that is comfortably worn when youre riding your bike.

obart is a very efficient city, and I doubt it would have been as easy to start Henty anywhere else. Both Jon and I were a fiveminute ride away from work so we were able to maximise the hours in the day dedicated to working on Henty: it wasn’t uncommon in the early days a er launching that I would come home during lunch to pack and dispatch orders. “The critical component of the bag - the recycled plastic strips – are sourced from Tasmania and exported to our factory in Vietnam. Hobart also has a number of very knowledgeable and accessible entrepreneurs who were also very happy to help in any way they could to encourage us to get started. We also used some local service providers including industrial designers, photographs and web developers who were very competitive on rates compared to Sydney and Melbourne. “Our products are unique on a number of fronts but obviously it is our rolling design of our multipurpose suit and garment bag, the Wingman, and its successful patents we’ve been granted that mean people now know us for our clever tubular designs.

H

“Initially Henty proved popular mainly in the cities but now we’re finding we sell into some obscure locations. One possible reason for this is because many people are now digital nomads and can live in amazing places outside of the cities, but on occasions need to visit cities for work or other events where formal clothing is needed. We’ve also found a large proportion of customers are using our luggage for their traditional suitcases and duffels, appreciating the design and flexibility our products provide while travelling. “We are in the process of determining where Henty goes next. We’ve got some exciting new products being launched before Christmas which will provide more carry-on options. We then need to figure out where we’ve like to go as a brand, where our customers want us to go and where the market forces are telling us to go. “There is so much that inspires and motivates me from the stories behind other entrepeneurs to the success of family and my own personal and professional experiences. My motivation for Henty to succeed is to ensure I can provide the full range of experiences and opportunities for my family.” 55


OLYMPICS

SEX

The Rio Olympics have wrapped and talk has again focused on the worlds best athletes going harder, faster and stronger with each other back at the village. The Winter Olympians have some fun but the sheer volume of athletes at the summer games – there were 11,000 competing in Rio – makes it the more fascinating for those on the sidelines.

he magic statistic ahead of each games is the number of condoms distributed. It started with the 1988 reveal that 8500 were made available for almost the same number of athletes in Seoul. The big talk in South Korea, however, was where the condoms were being used. Some athletes allegedly loved doing it on the roofs so much that condoms were found on the tops of residences most days, leading the Olympic Association to take the extraordinary step of banning outdoor sex. The Barcelona Olympics in 1992 saw condom distribution increase more than ten-fold to 90,000, though this dropped four years later when the show rolled into the comparatively conservative Atlanta, Georgia with just 15,000 provided. Organisers thought they’d be covered with 70,000 condoms for the Sydney 2000 Olympics, but within a week they had to order 20,000 more. Village folklore was created when shooter Josh Lakatos disobeyed team orders to return to America, instead picking the lock on an empty village apartment where he

T

and his pals crashed and every athlete came to party. The next eight days were filled with wild hedonism that would have put the ancient Greeks to shame. “I’m running a friggin’ brothel in the Olympic Village!” Lakatos told ESPN in 2012, recalling the moment he realised what was happening. “I’ve never witnessed so much debauchery in my entire life.” The same article referred to the Australian baseball and football teams’ post-Games celebration of a massive bonfire on the final night using the village’s furniture for fuel. “We did involve the fire wardens, who were very accommodating, and then we started hooking up around our very own Olympic Village bonfire,” footballer Alicia Ferguson told ESPN. Athens set a new record with 130,000 condoms distributed which then dropped in 2008 as Beijing organisers handed out 100,000 which still didn’t stop headlines labeling the Chinese games as having More Sex Than Woodstock. Perhaps anticipating a Loolapoolooza of Loving, London’s organisers broke all previous records by ordering 150,000 condoms many of which were presumably used 56

on the first day when gay dating app Grindr crashed. The record of 450,000 condoms for Rio isn’t as interesting as the figure it contains: 100,000 female condoms were distributed for the first time. The unusual step was taken to prevent the spread of the Zika virus and the Australians went even further by bringing their own antiviral condoms for added protection. Village residents were reportedly annoyed the little green packets available for free from vending machines didn’t have the Olympics logo on them – Beijing famously inscribed its with the motto Faster, Higher, Stronger – though the condoms did bear a helpful note explaining they were made from Amazonian natural latex. Japan’s condom packaging will undoubtedly make for collector’s items at the next Olympics in 2020 with athletes likely to stock up on ‘Hello Condoms’, putting the pressure on the undetermined host city in 2024. The only question le is which city will have the best package of Los Angeles, Madrid, Rome and Budapest?


57

Cutthroat issue 10.indd 57

2/09/2016 3:21 PM


58


59


döúj Lambs R

E

N

N

A

I

S

A

N

C

E

M

A

N

Large böu ‘

SIMON LAMB IS ‘ONE OF THOSE GUYS’ WHO CAN AND DOES DO IT ALL. HE’S A FILMMAKER, ENTREPRENEUR, SURFER, DOCUMENTARIAN, MODEL AND ARTIST. YOU PROBABLY KNOW HIS COMPANY BLACK LAMB WHICH STARTED IN FILM AND PRODUCTION AND NOW OFFERS A RANGE OF FASHION AND GROOMING PRODUCTS FOR THOSE WHO REALLY LIVE LIFE. WHAT YOU DON’T KNOW IS HOW LAMB FOUND AND DOCUMENTED THE LIFE OF SURFING LEGEND TONY HINDE ON A REMOTE ISLAND. HERE, SIMON WEAVES A FASCINATING TALE OF HOW HE BECAME THE BLACK LAMB.

60


found myself considering a career of art a er being chewed up and spat out by the school system. Following my passions for surfing, skating and snowboarding, I realised I was always living outside the box. I was never one to conform to society, instead always choosing the more unconventional way of life. I didn’t want to be a cog in the machine, I wanted more than that. I wanted to be free of being told what to do in life, when to clock on and when to clock off. I embraced being the black lamb. I spent many days perfecting my profession of filmmaking; once school was finished I followed my passion across the world filming all sorts of things from fashion to surfing. On my return from travel, I met up with and worked for Kevin Murphy for many

I

more was the impact Tony would have on me: this journey led me to make the film Serendipity. Serendipity is a documentary about Anthony Hussein Hinde. Tony’s story is one of the truly great surf fairytales. Tony was a 20 year old Australian who went on a surfing adventure at a time when many of the world’s best surf breaks were yet to be discovered. The word ‘serendipity’ means the unlikely and unintended discovery of good fortune; it is a beneficial accident or a cool surprise. By the most serendipitous chain of events, Tony found himself shipwrecked on a deserted island in the middle of the Indian Ocean, on the then-unknown Maldives. Tony had access to a fleet of perfect waves for 15 years, and he had ‘em all to himself. Eventually

S P E N T M A N Y D AY S P E R F E C T I N G M Y P R O F E S S I O N O F F I L M M A K I N G ; O N C E S C H O O L WA S F I N I S H E D I FO L LO W E D M Y PA S S I O N A C R O S S T H E W O R L D F I L M I N G A L L S O R T S O F T H I N G S F R O M FA S H I O N T O S U R F I N G .

TONY IS CONSIDERED TO BE THE FATHER OF SURFING IN THE MALDIVES. NOT ONLY DID HE KICK START THE NATION’S EMERGING TOURISM INDUSTRY, BUT HE ALSO FOUND HIS OWN PERSONAL NIRVANA THROUGH HIS LIVELIHOOD.

years, creating cool videos for his new self-titled brand. I immersed myself in his world and worked out quite quickly that I wanted to spend the rest of my life traveling, surfing and making amazing products. It was around 2007 when my brother was killed in a skiing accident in Switzerland. A er the trauma of this event I decided to pack my bags with my then girlfriend, Liz, on a trip to the Maldives to get away from life’s troubles. I decided to take one crucial thing with me: my video camera, which Liz said was okay as long as I didn’t spend all day filming. Arriving in the Maldives, I had no idea I would be staying on the very island that surf legend Tony Hinde called home. What surprised me even

61

Tony’s secret was exposed, though he protected those waves as long as he could. He realised that if he could not own the waves then he would provide the best surf travel experience by starting the Maldives only dedicated (and eventually its most successful) surf camp. Tony is considered to be the father of surfing in the Maldives. Not only did he kick start the nation’s emerging tourism industry, but he also found his own personal nirvana through his livelihood. Serendipity is a film about a guy on an adventure who became a legend. In keeping with everything else, it was totally serendipitous that I met Tony and had the opportunity to make this film.


62


döúj Lambs‘

R

E

N

N

A

I

S

A

N

C

E

M

A

N

Largeböu

Another project that has kept me busy concerned another mentor of mine. Peter Churcher is a realistic painter whom I modeled for over a decade. I thought he was an interesting person so I started filming him, and 20 years later found myself creating a documentary about the lives of he and his mother Betty Churcher. An Artist’s Muse is a portrait of the Churcher family and a tribute to Betty’s life

mistakes with investments before channeling my experiences into a concept and brand, crystalising what I had learned from Tony and Peter to create Black Lamb. Black Lamb stands for taking risks without hesitation. It stands for raw creativity and living in the moment. Black Lamb currently involves a range of hair product and apparel and I’m so stoked to be where I am, and have

B L A C K L A M B S TA N D S FO R TA K I N G R I S K S W I T H O U T H E S I TAT I O N . I T S TA N D S FO R R AW C R E AT I V I T Y A N D L I V I N G I N T H E M O M E N T.

and Australian art in general. The story features a subtext of Peter’s journey and fascination with painting in Spain, while also considering the the intricate and personal relationship the model has with the artist. We see Peter mature as an artist a er his time in Spain, we also see and hear Betty Churcher talking about muses throughout history. Making this film taught me a lot about the process behind creativity and behind art’s construction. A er my travels, I made some critical 63

to give a shout out to my business partners for their guidance. Where to next? I’ve penned a script for a feature film about one of the craziest years of my life and I’m now in the process of putting the team together to make it happen, and I’m also writing a book about my escapades. Life couldn’t be busier or better – black lamb forever! @blacklambproducts www.blacklamb.com.au www.facebook.com/ blacklambproducts


64


Grooming Generations for 200 Years

www.irsaltd.com

Facebook.com/clubmanaustralia 65


B ruce Ha t hco ck b ri n g s v a lua b le a n d i n t ri gui n g ex peri en ces f ro m Los A n g eles t o hi s role a s o n e of t he n ew b a rb eri n g t ea chers a t S y dn ey T A FE.

66


THE REASON I WA N T E D T O B E C O M E A TEACHER AT TA F E WA S B E C A U S E I WA N T E D T O EXPRESS GRATITUDE AND SHARE THE TECHNIQUES I’VE L E A R N E D S O FA R .

ou have two barber shops with your brother in LA and one here in Hurlstone Park. How did you get started? My brother ‘Goose’ worked for a barbershop called Superstar Hair Unlimited in Los Angeles in 1997. I went in for an edge up of my dreadlocks and was offered a barber job on the spot. I declined, but a year later I accepted. They taught me barbering from scratch. Years later, a client who was a hairdressers and was also doing well selling real estate so wanted to sell up. He sold it to Goose on a good deal. The problem with it was that its décor was pink and black, not the most appropriate colours for a barbershop. We decided to take a few months to renovate but when our employers got wind of what was happening, our employment ceased – effective immediately. A client offered to help paint it, so a er a lick of paint we were open for business and we kept improving it from there. Next we moved to larger premises with the business growing from six to nine barbers and eventually to 15. When I visited Sydney eight years ago I just loved the place and eventually moved here three years ago. That’s when I set up Legends – The Barbershop in Hurlstone Park. Barbering in Australia is seeing a resurgence of epic proportions. Is it the same in the US or has barbering always remained a busy separate sector? In the US, barbering was always around but the sector was affected by fashion trends and waves of intrigue. Phases of long hair and braid trends were terrible for us. In Australia, men can have their hair done in hairdressing salons but this is not so much the case in LA. Barbering is viewed with a separate set of techniques, procedures and standards. Why did you choose Sydney to set up your

next barbershop? Sydney is a progressive, open minded city and I really liked the fact that people like to try new things here. I was going to move to Sydney anyway and really thought about getting out of barbering. Then I realised that there was opportunity here, as eight years ago there weren’t a lot of barbershops and the trend had not yet set in. It was the perfect place to expand our Legends brand. What made you decide to get involved in barbering education? There are good barbers in Australia but there is great potential for so many more. I mean in all aspects – in techniques, tools and sanitation. The reason I wanted to become a teacher at TAFE was because I wanted to express gratitude and share the techniques I’ve learned so far. Also, being a part of a new program focusing specifically on barbering is something I was attracted to doing. Helping people build dedicated barbering skills is a great and rewarding opportunity. Why do you think the new barbering apprenticeship offered at Sydney TAFE is important? How will it help the barbering industry? It’s important because there are people out there who want to cut hair who don’t want to do a hairdressing course to be qualified. I’ve met young people who try to learn at home from YouTube. This doesn’t work. There are so many skills and so much knowledge that online demonstration can’t teach. I met a young guy once who told me that there was a growing ringworm infestation in his community. I had to talk to him about his methods and sanitation because it was his practice that was spreading the condition. What is your favourite thing about training new barbers? Watching them become good. I want to watch them learn so that they can cut better than me. If I do that, then I’m doing my

67

job. What I mean by good cutting is fantastic blends, great line up – neat and clean and a good natural appearance, that is no stubble. It feels really good to the client and the barber. What are the top two things that you would advise new barbering apprentices at Sydney TAFE to guide their new careers? 1. Listen – pay attention to what you are learning, Some people assume that they know more than they actually do. 2. Never stop watching and learning. I still learn from apprentices. They might develop a technique that they have learnt on YouTube and I watch. What are the key elements of being a successful barber? As well as constantly learning, I think successful barbers need to be ready to work hard. They need to want a barbering career bad enough that they are prepared to put in the hard yards. Some people might want to do barbering because it’s fun. It’s not. It’s long hours, six days per week. Forget about Saturdays, that’s a normal work day. What’s the best thing a client has ever done for you? Clients have done so much for me. Two things stand out. In LA, clients have jumped to my defence, without a second thought, when a client pulled a gun on me. Putting their life on the line for me, their barber, is not something you ever forget. On a nicer note, I had a successful client who aimed to make a million dollars that year. He promised to give each barber $1,000 if he made his million. He did and walked into the barbershop presenting each of us with $1,000 each. If you could set up a barbershop in any spot in the world – other than Sydney, where would it be? It’s really exciting to open a barbershop in place where there are not many. So I would say Tokyo or Saudi Arabia.


Arts

LucasBlackman THE

CUSTOMISER

Sneakers. Moustache. Never before have the two found such a perfect pairing as with Lucas Blackman, a Sydneysider with true style. Lucas spends all his sweet green each week on shoes

including posting six pairs to his dad in Melbourne for storage – and as he tells us, he wouldn’t have it any other way.

I

started skating in 2004 and I was obsessed with skate shoes. I used to buy as many shoes as possible with the intention of thrashing them. At age 18 I got my first job and every paycheck went to shoes. If I earned $600 that week, I was buying three pairs on eBay.” “There are still a lot of rare pairs out there but the list is getting smaller. I have a holy grail with

about 8 pairs on it. Close to number one is the 2013 Sneaker Freaker x Puma Blaze of Glory.” “I’m loyal to certain brands including New Balance, Asics, Nike and Puma. I’m big on colour and the shoe has to have a bit of black involved so the bright colours can contrast and aren’t saturated. I like the shape to be sharp with a pointy toebox, and the sole to lie on the ground the whole way through and not to go wonky or 68

up at the end. Exclusivity is also important; I’ve you’ve got a limited edition number then you’ve got my attention. Even if everyone thinks it’s ugly, it’s still kind of cool.” “I wouldn’t want to be crazy enough to live in a shoe, but ideally I’d like to have something like a ‘boys room’ filled with shoes, depending on how my girlfriend feels about it. We live in a studio flat now, so it might be time to do a cull soon.”


69


70


71


FOLLOW THE DISTINCT SMELL THAT HOVERS AROUND NEWTOWN’S ENMORE ROAD AT CERTAIN TIMES OF THE DAY AND YOU’LL END UP OUTSIDE AN INDUSTRIAL BUILDING NEAR A POPULAR GRAFFITI WALL. THE SOUNDS FROM INSIDE YOUNG HENRYS’ BREWERY ARE FAR MORE POWERFUL AND INTRIGUING THAN THAT OF THE NEARBY INNER WEST RAIL LINE, AND THAT’S EXACTLY HOW THE TEAM INSIDE LIKES IT.

72


M

ates Richard Adamson and Oscar McMahon founded Young Henrys in 2012 using a small brewing kit and a whole lot of hustle. The boys got together because they despaired of their city’s beer scene but soon realised there were many others with a taste for YH: within months they’d expanded into the warehouse next door.

sees higher yields from less raw materials, every speck of grain and hop matter we’ve used has been donated to farmers for cattle feed, we’re about to go community owned solar through Pingala for a large portion of our energy use, we’ve gone steam and gas instead of electrical on many pieces of heating equipment, we rent Kegstar’s one way kegs instead of needing a return journey for every keg sold, we buy in bulk wherever possible, buy Australian wherever possible and always

behind spirits is that we were so used to beer hangovers that we thought we’d push the boundaries a bit. We’ve now created a super strain of hangover which is 7 parts beer, 3 parts gin and an empty memory’s worth of Irish whisky. We call it Brewicidal Tendencies.”

footprint and waste in the brewing process,” YH’s McMahon says. “In the last 4 years we’ve made considerable steps to make our business greener. We’ve upgraded our old brewery to a modern high efficiency brewing system that

spirit distillation,” he continues. “”We’ve picked up a few medals recently for our Noble Cut Gin – it’s a really unique new world gin and it’s nice to see that quite a few people are digging our bold direction with it. The real inspiration

“We are a company obsessed with following the muse, having fun and being inspired so there will be more cool projects coming up. Look out for one later this year with our good mates at Jamesons…”

A recent collaboration with Oz Comic-Con revealed the brewery’s closet comic fans. “The guys from Oz Comicon came to us with this In the years since, Young Henrys have gone crazy idea to brew a beer to celebrate the g from being an underground favourite of j y le of centre so we conventions and we enjoy university entertained the students to fact. It turns out THE REAL INSPIRATION BEHIND SPIRITS IS THAT WE WERE SO USED TO BEER on tap staples that legendary HANGOVERS THAT WE THOUGHT WE’D PUSH THE BOUNDARIES A BIT. WE’VE NOW throughout comic artist CREATED A SUPER STRAIN OF HANGOVER WHICH IS 7 PARTS BEER, 3 PARTS GIN AND AN Sydney. The Doug Holgate EMPTY MEMORY’S WORTH OF IRISH WHISKY. WE CALL IT BREWICIDAL TENDENCIES. brewery doesn’t mind a continues beer and lives in favour environmentally friendly packaging like to expand and change how the city drinks Melbourne so we worked together to create a growlers, cans, Aussie made glass and biothrough innovative brewing and collaborations. set of characteristics that would be personified cups for festivals and events. by both the beer and cool-as-hell one-off “Low impact brewing is a term that defines comic character: Dr Rot Fifer was born.” “Another exciting thing we’re working on is people that actively try to reduce their carbon

73


B E S P O K E BARBER BITS

74


BARBER DAN DIXON TOOK SOME TIME AWAY FROM HIS BONDI BUSINESS MISTER CHOP SHOP RECENTLY TO ROAD TRIP THROUGH AMERICA. ALONG THE WAY HE GOT A TIP ABOUT A SMALL TOWN GUY MAKING BESPOKE HAND CRAFTED BARBER TOOLS SOMEWHERE IN THE DEEP SOUTH…

very house in Roswell, Georgia is clean and manicured to perfection, resembling the America of bygone films. Lawns look so neat they appear fake and shrubbery is shaped to the point where you’ll almost want to stop to see if they’re plastic. Here I met with Robert ‘Bob’ Quinn from Elite Razor and was given a tour of his humble home workshop and dispatch centre where I immediately felt Bob’s

E

from watches into clear resin, giving them the appearance of being suspended – ‘stuck in time’ as it were. Then something incredible caught my eye. A turquoise stone shave brush that was amazing in colour and showed all the mineralisation throughout the stone. The idea of stone pieces intrigued me as Bob then showed me a gold laced quartz’ which looked more like marble and a gold laced onyx which looked like a gold

Everything Bob makes is compatible with modern replacement blades: the handle collars are designed to work with heads from Edwin Jagger, Merkur, Weber and Muhle or Bob can set you up with a completely new set. He even has home options for Shick and Gillette heads (which was my pick. I couldn’t pass it up for my home Fusion) and the brushes come with different badger ‘knot’ options

BOB’S PHILOSOPHY IS THAT GIVEN THE AGE OF MOST OF THE MATERIALS HE USES, THE PIECES DON’T ACTUALLY BELONG TO HIM BUT HE MINDS THEM UNTIL THEY FIND THEIR NEXT CARETAKER.

passion for his work as he explained how a hobby and passion became a business. He showed me his inventory of highend custom brush handles and I was lost at the variety of woods he had turned into masterpieces. Each piece of timber had a story of where it came from, how old it was and the process behind how it became a work of art. The collection expanded into exotic stones and assorted resins and the customisation seemed endless. Every brush looked the same yet so different. Bob boasted of his unique and original idea of placing internal pieces

lightning bolt through a black sky. Bob’s philosophy is that given the age of most of the materials he uses, the pieces don’t actually belong to him but he minds them until they find their next caretaker. The categorised shelf of shaver handles was where the true cra smanship lay. Lazer cut precision timber with inlays, various snakeskins or exotic feathers or stone such as matching quartz, onyx or turquoise. Beautiful pieces, all set off beautifully with the chrome or gold hardware.

I N T E R V I E W

B Y :

75

D A N

D I X O N

or even Boars Bristle if desired. Meeting Bob was powerful in showing how passion can create truly unique art, even if you have to venture a little of the path to find and appreciate it. If you’re putting your kit together and want to stand out more than the guy working next to you – so you don’t have the same clippers, guards, combs, cutthroat and the same shave brush as everyone else – consider customising your kit. You want to be noticed? Be the best dressed in the room, I say.


Rehearsal photographs by Daniel Boud.

MAN PLAN with a

RAY

CHONG

NEE’S

ROCKY

ROAD

RAY CHONG NEE IS AN UNSTOPPABLE FORCE. WHEN WE FIRST MET HE WAS A PROFESSIONAL ACTOR STRUGGLING TO GET MAINSTREAM ROLES IN SYDNEY. HE WORKED NUMEROUS HOSPITALITY JOBS IN BETWEEN BIT PARTS THEN MOVED TO MELBOURNE AND WE LOST CONTACT, UNTIL I WALKED PASSED THE SYDNEY OPERA HOUSE RECENTLY. THERE WAS RAY AS OTHELLO GAZING FROM BELL SHAKESPEARE PROMOTIONAL MATERIAL AS IT WRAPPED ARGUABLY AUSTRALIA’S MOST ICONIC BUILDING WHILE ADVERTISING ONE OF THE BARD’S MOST SIGNIFICANT WORKS. RAY LOOKED IMPRESSIVE AS OTHELLO, BUT WHAT HAD HAPPENED TO TAKE HIM TO THE NEXT LEVEL? I PICKED UP THE PHONE.

76


oing back to the start, my parents took me out of Samoa when I was about three years old,” Ray said. “I was taken to New Zealand for education and was back and forth to Samoa for six years before they brought me to Australia where Dad lived in Newcastle.” The family soon relocated to Brisbane then Toowoomba where Ray completed secondary and tertiary education, finishing at the University of Southern Queensland. It was then Ray’s fierce drive to succeed as an actor became apparent to those around him. “I just thought ‘fuck it’ and moved to Sydney to see what might happen there.”

G

Plenty was happening in the harbour city including roles with Darlinghurst Theatre Company, Theatre Ink and the National Institute of Dramatic Art. But the big gigs never came. “Everything I was doing was indie – I couldn’t get into mainstream even though I was meeting the right people. So I went south again.” He gave himself five years to make it in Melbourne. Exactly four years and one month later it began to pay off when he was noticed by the powerful. “That was when Bell Shakespeare first employed me and then other companies started looking at me.” Melbourne Theatre Company, Sydney Theatre Company and Queensland Theatre Company all rushed for some Ray, while he was also cast in TV programs Offspring, Tomorrow When The War Began and Glitch. His biggest gig in terms of exposure, however, has been Othello. The production toured throughout 2016 in regional centres as well as playing major cities, with Ray having to play the doomed man night after night. “To reach inside your guts and pull out the insides for the audience, that’s rough.” Does he even like Othello?

“I find him very conflicting. He is a person who has struggled throughout most of his life then finds someone he loves with all his heart and being and to not listen to her, to believe in the patriarchal voice instead is hard to digest as a performer. “We’re trying to not give him any honour at the end of the play, any at all,” Ray continues, referencing the play’s violence. “We don’t want to make it look a tragedy: this guy has been through slavery and racism and driven to madness and what’s left is this inhuman person.” Ray requested Bell Shakespeare work with a psychologist to help the cast and crew cope with the darkness in Othello. “There’s a distance that I hold, that I need to hold or I’ll lose myself. Working with the psychologist has shown me how to leave it all there at the end of the day.” TV gigs, national touring productions, voice and movement consultants – does Ray feel like he’s made it? “Not yet. The industry is quite big and I’m still quite small. [Othello] is a big step up from where I was and it gives me leverage to go to casting agents and say ‘that role you just cast to a white person, you could have gone with someone else’. I really want to blow up this whole blind casting process because it’s so bullshit.” When I comment on Ray being unstoppable, he laughs then says seriously: “we need people who are perceived as ‘other’ to lead from the front. That’s something that’s touched on in the play, actually, because as soon as the people who are ‘other’ start saying ‘this isn’t good enough’ and start leading from the front, that’s when the change happens. We have to lead, we have to fight the fear and hate in the world by being better, not by being insane.”

77


BMWi3 Introducing the new 2016 i3 94Ah

MW has long been at the forefront of technical innovation, and the latest electric-powered BMW i3 variants reasserts the prestige German car brand’s status in this area. Introducing BMW’s visionary i sub-brand in 2013, the original i3 broke new ground in terms of delivering a premium electric vehicle experience that was designed to excel in the

B

useable energy. It supplies a 125kW/250Nm synchronous electric motor, which can zap the i3 94Ah to 100km/h in 7.3 seconds. This translates to a European NEDC-certified range of 310km, up from 190km. BMW says ‘real-world’ (ie. with the air-conditioning on and the audio system cranked, in the stopstart world of inner-city traffic) figures of ‘up to 200km’ are possible. Previously, this was

into a domestic socket for a 14-hour, 80 per cent charge; or via a public charging facility, which completes the task in around four hours. Of course, the latest i3 retains all the sustainability cues of the original. The Leipzig production plant, where the i3 is built, uses 50 per cent less energy and 70 per cent less water than the average BMW Group figures, with 100 per cent renewable energy powering the plant

NOW IN 2016, THE UPDATED BMW I3, KNOWN AS THE 94AH, SHOWCASES THE LATEST LEARNINGS FROM BMW I. WORKING IN CONJUNCTION WITH TECHNOLOGY PARTNER SAMSUNG SDI, BMW I ENGINEERS HAVE EQUIPPED THE I3 94AH WITH A NEW 94 AMPERE HOUR BATTERY PACK THAT SIGNIFICANTLY EXTENDS THE I3’S RANGE CAPABILITY.

mega cities of the 21st century. Now in 2016, the updated BMW i3, known as the 94Ah, showcases the latest learnings from BMW i. Working in conjunction with technology partner Samsung SDI, BMW i engineers have equipped the i3 94Ah with a new 94 Amperehour battery pack that significantly extends the i3’s range capability. An increased electrolyte level sees the i3 94Ah’s gross battery energy grow to 33kWh, of which 27kWh can effectively be employed. For reference, the existing i3’s 60Ah capacity produces 22kWh gross with 19kWh of

pegged at 130km. For those seeking still-further range, the i3 94Ah can also be ordered as a Range Extender, using a small combustion engine to support the electric motor. While the raw figures impress, it’s also important to note that this battery pack fits into the same space as before, with no changes to the vehicle’s external dimensions. Recharging can be conducted in several ways. BMW’s own i Wallbox Pure (a BMW Genuine Accessory), can be installed in the home and offers an 80 per cent charge in less than eight hours; the standard Occasional Use Cable plugs

78

thanks to four wind turbines. Additionally 80 per cent of the aluminium used in the i3’s construction is either recycled or produced with renewable energy. Seat trims are made of completely-recycled polyester, sustainable eucalyptus features on interior and dash trims, olive leaf extract is used to naturally tan interior leathers and the seat cover features 40 per cent pure new wool. Priced from $65,900 plus on-road costs, or $71,900 in Range Extender from, expect to see the new i3 94Ah on Australian roads in the final quarter of 2016.


ELVIS™ AND ELVIS PRESLEY™ ARE TRADEMARKS OF ABG EPE IP LLC RIGHTS OF PUBLICITY 79


80


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.