The Cutthroat Journal Issue #11 by The Cutthroat Journal

B A R B E R

T R A D E

$14.95 AUD $16.95 NZD

ISSUE #Eleven autumn 2017

J O U R N A L

// / m e n ' s

c u l t u r e

in this issue

COnTenTS 18

Jimbo's Ramble JAMES Holder - editor-in-chief

T hy Barber

WELL, IT HAS DEFINITELY BEEN A CRAZY START TO THE YEAR AGAIN. ALL

THE BARBER SHOPS I WALK INTO SEEM TO BE FLAT OUT, WHICH IS SO GREAT TO SEE.

AK UBR A

THE REGULARS 4 8 World of Barbers 6 6 Tell us your Tale

Cut t hroat Knives

B L E E D I NG E D GE BL PROD CTS PRO D U CTS

Sh or t b ack and sidew al ks

e have already trekked Room, is an extremely humble individual, across the Tasman and I can’t wait to meet up with him for The Cutthroat again in Sydney. Journal Barber Wars in We are all pumped for the year ahead Auckland in February. and for the remaining Barber Wars. If The Barber Wars are proudly supported you are keen to get involved, follow by Justin Metcalf Espresso Martini. We’ll us on Instagram be heading to #thecutthroatjournal Melbourne and We have some THE SKILL LEVELS OF THE Sydney soon BARBERS ACROSS THE DITCH amazing judges this to continue WERE AMAZING, AND WE ARE year in Melbourne: the comp, in STOKED THAT THE WINNER OF we have James from conjunction THE NEW ZEALAND BARBER Jimmy Rods, Jackii with WA R S I S C O M I N G TO S Y D N E Y TO Brown, Fab from Meatstock. COMPETE AT THE GRAND FINALE Uncle Rocco’s, along A T H A I R E X P O 2 0 1 7 . The skill levels with myself and of the barbers Lachlan from Jimbo’s across the Barbershop, and we are stoked to have ditch were amazing, and we are stoked Scott (Scissor Slinger) from the Alibi that the winner of the New Zealand Room in Sydney. Barber Wars is coming to Sydney to compete at the grand ﬁnale at Hair Expo That’s it from me. 2017. Don’t be a stranger! The winner, Vea from Barkers Groom

Jimbo.

ISSUE 11

EDITOR

James (Jimbo) Holder jimbo@thecutthroatjournal.com PUBLISHER

Sean Edwards sean@thecutthroatjournal.com ART director

Joey Dable Twominds Creative joey@twomindscreative.com.au

B e H i N d

THE

S C e N e S

Sean Edwards - Publisher of the CUTTHROAT JOURNAL THANK YOU FOR WAITING PATIENTLY FOR THIS ISSUE OF THE CUTTHROAT JOURNAL. WE HAVE BEEN BUSY PREPARING THIS CRACKER ISSUE FOR YOU, AS WE RESTRUCTURED THE LOOK AND FEEL OF THE MAGAZINE.

SALES manager

Chrissie Schedny chrissie@thecutthroatjournal.com +61 427 147 218 Gr aphic Designer

Roxanna Chan roxanna@thecutthroatjournal.com Media

info@thecutthroatjournal.com

e have looked hard at what motivates us as a magazine publisher and it’s about the readers and the contributors, who are the real roots of this journal. We thrive on the space we have helped create with the Cutthroat Journal, and it would not be possible without the input of the world’s best barbers and their unique skills.

boisterous laughter as a group of men joked, swore, drank, groomed and most of all, enjoyed each other’s company.

It is so hard to try and pinpoint or explain the feeling when you walk into a barbershop that has the “vibe”. So many of us try to create that with the ﬁt-out and look, but getting the right vibe goes beyond that.

This issue we explore diﬀerent points of views of what the barbershop really is today, and we have invited some interesting guest writers, male and female, to give their opinion especially around the topic of female barbers in the barber space. This is becoming very common, as more girls want to be career barbers, not hairdressers.

I do now think I really discovered the coolest barbershop vibe a er reﬂecting on a recent trip to Rotterdam, where I encountered ﬁrst-hand the experience of the “Schorem Barbers”. I had a lay over in Amsterdam, took the one hour train ride to the laid-back city of Rotterdam and had an a ernoon of fun at the coolest men only barber business in the world. The music rocked, there was

Contributors Sandy Chong Rachel Mortan Dan Dixon James Dixon Elise McNeil Bronwyn Martin Teresa Liivak Craig Hollywood Fi Mason

I really can see now that modern guys don’t have too many sacred spaces anymore, where they can get away for a short break and enjoy manly companionship, and the barbershop is one of these few remaining sacred sites. But, this is not always the opinion shared by all!

We live in a world of equal opportunity, and it’s time to get real and ﬁnd out where the modern barbershop is really heading - so we all can have a future of success. Sit back and enjoy this issue, as we explore the world of barbering. 5

S T A Y

C O N N E C T E D

No part of this publication may be used, reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without prior written consent of the publishers. DISCLAIMER: A large portion of original material is created by Cutthroat and its contributors, including text, fonts, photography, and art work - content used from public domain like social media sites we agree are not the property of the Cutthroat Journal, and in all cases media permission has been sought via electronic or verbal agreement. The content and views expressed in this journal by individuals and the Cutthroat Journal are provided in good faith as information only. No guarantee is made of the accuracy of the information provided. The Cutthroat Journal takes no responsibility for any action taken by others as a result of the content of this site.

BLEEDING

ENRIGH T'S L IQUID H AND SO AP 500ml

EDGE

Enright’s original hand soap is gentle on skin and on the environment. Our sulphate-free formula leaves your hands clean and moisturised, with a refreshing gin botanical fragrance. WWW.ENRIGHTSGINCOMPANY.COM

R EUZE L BEARD FOAM AM Reuzel Beard Foam is a revolutionary utionary patent-pending leave-in beardd conditioner that deodorises your beard, absorbing bsorbing quickly to help tame and control. trol. You’ll look well-maintained with a beard eard that’s incredibly so and groomed. Formulated to sooth and condition your beard eard plus the skin underneath, Reuzel Beard Foam will reduce itch, beardruﬀ, promote mote thicker hair, tame rogue hairs,, repair split ends, and to so en coarse hairs irs all while knocking out that funky smell.l. Instantly making your beard appear thicker, cker, Reuzel Beard Foam will keep your beard moisturised throughout the day. ay.

ENRIGH T'S O IL BURNER L IQUID 150ml Enright’s exquisite gin scented fragrance, designed to be used in oil burners. With exotic botanicals, this special liquid imparts a balanced, fresh scent that is sure to please. The liquid is speciﬁcally designed for use in oil burners and essential oil diﬀusers. Test before use, and do not leave unattended.

WWW.REUZELPOMADE.COM M

WWW.ENRIGHTSGINCOMPANY.COM

REUZEL Da i ly Sha mpo o Reuzel Daily Shampoo is a concentrated shampoo infused with our Tonic Blend of Witch Hazel, Nettle Leaf, Rosemary and Horsetail Root, ideal for all hair types and frequent use. The invigorating and hardworking product helps to provide effective cleansing and moisturising benefits, whilst peppermint helps to cool and stimulating the scalp. Great for degreasing product build up, apply Daily Conditioner to dry hair first, emulsify and condition then follow with Daily Shampoo.

Reuzel Fib re pom ade Fiber Pomade creates hours of textured definition with a firm but pliable hold and a low shine finish. Works best on shorter hair, and is particularly effective on medium to thicker hair types. Fiber Pomade will texturise and increase fullness for a straight out of bed, dishevelled look. Longer hair, shorter hair, any hair type is perfect for this product. Perfect for the gentleman or the female who is looking for a more malleable, movable product, with a natural finish.

WWW.REUZELPOMADE.COM

BLEEDING

EDGE

REUZ EL B EARD BAL M Reuzel Beard Balm with Shea Butter and Argan Oil is a light to medium hold, multi-purpose balm with a manly, woody scent. Formulated to improve beard appearance and promote new, itch-free beard growth, this product will also protect the skin underneath. Eliminating beardruﬀ, taming rogue hairs, repairing split ends and so ening coarse hairs, Reuzel beard balm instantly makes your beard appear thicker. Giving your beard a healthy gloss, the balm will make it easier to trim and shape and keep your beard moisturised throughout the day. Don’t forget to apply Reuzel Beard Balm to your moustache and the hair around your mouth.

PRO SPECTO RS PO M ADE R ANGE

WWW.REUZELPOMADE.COM

CL AY M AT T E PO M ADE Reuzel Clay Matte Pomade creates a touchable, flexible hold with a matte finish that is perfect for manipulating the hair into almost any style - It’s great for adding texture with hold. It’s best used to emphasise texture and separation with the mouldable, flexible hold of natural clay. With its all day hold, Clay Matte Pomade is perfect for short hairstyles and its sweat proof formula is ideal for active men! Rub a small amount evenly between palms before working into the hair.

Prospectors Pomade Gold Rush: a great hold for any hair style that will not dry your hair, create ﬂakes and will wash right out. Gold rush is a non greasy feeling pomade with hemp oil, that will promote a healthy scalp. Prospectors Pomade Crude Oil: an oil base pomade, Crude Oil by Prospectors remains pliable throughout the day and has a nice sheen. Made with hemp oil, which is wonderful to condition and moisturise any mane. Prospectors Pomade Iron Ore: the Iron Ore by Prospectors has hold. This hemp oil infused pomade has great control, letting you achieve any hairstyle with control.

WWW.PROSPECTORSPOMADE.COM

WWW.REUZELPOMADE.COM

Wahl stea lth l ithium cordless com b o The Limited Edition Lithium Ion Stealth Combo comes with the black Cordless Super Taper and the black Beret. The Cordless Super Taper allows unrestricted cutting freedom equipped with Lithium-Ion battery technology and has a light weight cordless design for easier handling, with the legendary hair cutting performance of a Wahl corded clipper. The Beret has snap on blades that provide high precision accuracy for clean lines and cuts and is ideal for close trimming and outlining. These two won’t be around for long, so be quick.

ENRIGH T'S SH AVE O IL 30ml Enright’s gin scented Shave Oil helps your razor glide over the skin for a smooth, close shave without razor burn. Enright’s Original Gin Shave Oil is made from the ﬁnest ingredients and scented with our signature gin fragrance, made of exotic botanicals.

WWW.WAHL.COM.AU WWW.ENRIGHTSGINCOMPANY.COM

THE BARBECUE AND MUSIC FESTIVAL

t o f i n d o u t m o r e , v i s i t w w w. m e at s t o c k . c o m . au P R O U D L Y

S U P P O R T E D

B Y

20 i 7

E MELBOURN • SYDNEY

Have you got what it takes? Australia and nz’s best barbers

LIVE ON STAGE

GUEST JUDGES THE SCHOREM barbers

BARBER WARS MELBOURNE

BARBER WARS SYDNEY

BARBER WARS GRAND FINAL

Melbourne Showgrounds, Epsom Rd, Ascot Vale Victoria 3032 Saturday 22nd April 12:00pm – 7:30pm

Sydney Showgrounds 1 Showground Rd, Sydney Olympic Park NSW 2127 Saturday 6th May 12:00pm – 7:30pm

Hosted at Hair Expo International Convention Centre (ICC) Sydney, Darling Harbour 14 Darling Dr, Sydney NSW 2009 Monday 12th June 10:00am – 12:00pm

to find out mor e , su b s c rib e t o o u r e - n e ws w w w.thecut throatjournal.c om/e-news

After taking Australia by storm in late 2015 and early 2016, Haircare Australia is bringing the Schorem Barbers, Leen and Bertus, back to Australia for Hair Expo 2017, where the boys will be bringing us a standalone show on the Sunday and judging the Barber Wars finale on Monday, june 12th.

'91

Leen and Bertus started barbering

'11

'14

STORE OFFICIALLY LAUNCHES

Reuzel products officially launched

'15

THE OLD SCHOOL ACADEMY OPENS

t’s great to have you back on product range since you were last here; because they’re so easy to use and do exactly Australian soil. Tell us, what have the tell us a little about how these products what they promise. Barbers and hairdressers Schorem Barbers been up to since came to be. We only make products that go crazy over the Grooming Tonic, because it’s last touring Australia? We’ve been we need in the shop, and the tonics are the perfect product to make those big pomps. really, really busy, organising our annual music exactly that. I love the Grooming Tonic - it Funny little fact: we have lots of female clients festival Scumbash, travelling for Reuzel and might just be my favourite product right now, who use it on their curly hair. Apparently, it’s of course, with the barbershop and academy. because it’s so versatile; it’s the perfect base the perfect product to control curls and waves. We’ve also launched some new products that for blow-drying to give hold and protection, People have also been raving over the new we’re really proud of too; tonics, shampoos and it also gives awesome shine when you Clay and Fibre Pomades too. They have really and conditioner. use it with our pomades. To top it off, it’s filled the gap between the new and traditional Have you seen any change in the barbering the perfect grooming tool for finer hair or type of men’s styling products. industry Can you since your I ALSO LOVE THE FACT THAT A LOT OF ‘KIDS’ WANT TO BECOME BARBERS AGAIN. THE explain a last visit to TRADE HAS BEEN LOOKED DOWN ON FOR SO LONG; IT’S ABOUT TIME THAT YOUNGSTERS little more Australia? START TO SEE IT AS ‘COOL’ AGAIN. about the new The industry is flourishing, shampoos people who don’t want to use one of the becoming bigger and bigger, which we and conditioner - how do they differ from heavier products we have. The Hair Tonic is love to see. Men should be able to choose other products on the market? Well, for perfect for everybody who uses the oil-based between going to a salon or a barbershop. I one, they’re men’s products. Too many guys pomades. It's the perfect tool to clean your don’t understand why some entrepreneurs just grab whatever is in the shower, pissing off scalp, without being too harsh. For barbers, are bitching about increased competition their wives and girlfriends. We really wanted it’s great for cutting greased up hair without from barbershops; it just means you have to develop a range of products that have a losing shape and above all, it smells bloody to become a better entrepreneur, right? I degreasing treatment. amazing. The new Fibre and Clay Pomades also love the fact that a lot of "kids" want If you had to choose one Reuzel product are also new additions and are great for guys to become barbers again. The trade has you couldn’t live without, what would that who aren’t necessarily looking for a traditional been looked down on for so long; it’s about be and why? The Red Pomade, because I use pomade; they’re excellent for more textured time that youngsters start to see it as "cool" it on my moustache - the only hair I have le . and effortless styles. again. Again, a lot off barbers bitch and As a barber though, it’s hard to say, because complain about this new wave of barbers, but, How do the new additions fit in with the I love all of them and I choose a different why? Only the ones with true passion and rest of the Reuzel styling range? What has perseverance will stay in the industry, which product for each client. I would probably have the response been? The tonics actually mix will keep the trade alive. The ones that are to say that my all-time-favourite product with all of our other products; people can mix in it for the hype will end up regretting the would be the Grooming Tonic. The Pink and play, trying to find that perfect cocktail for straight razor they tattooed on their forehead! Pomade isn’t far behind though; I could travel their hair, shine, hold, fragrance and cleansing the world with those two. Reuzel has significantly expanded its needs. It’s all there. People love the tonics, 11

Barber Wars New Zealand 2017

The Winners

T 20 i 7

IT STARTED WITH A "BANG" "CHOP" & "BUZZ" AND A LITTLE FLIGHT RESISTANCE AS WE CROSSED THE DITCH FOR WHAT WAS THE FIRST OF THREE CUTTHROAT BARBER WARS EVENTS, HOSTED AT MEATSTOCK MEAT AND MUSIC FESTIVAL.

stage battle. The 12 competitors each hanks to our major sponsor, Espresso Martini by Justin Metcalf, completed two categories (one razor fade Barber Wars 2017 has developed and one free choice) in an hour, over three into a mammoth event that is now rounds, leaving a difficult task for the judges, travelling the countryside and across the as the scores came in close. Congratulations Tasman to showcase the top Australian and goes out to overall winner Vea Fonua, New Zealand barbers. Our mission is to hunt second place Gabriel Adams Loffley and third down and crown place, Terry Gautsua. the BEST barber The festival sold CONGRATULATIONS GOES OUT TO of 2017. The out and clicked over finalists from OVERALL WINNER VEA, SECOND PLACE 6,000 attendees, the Auckland, setting an epic vibe GABRIEL AND THIRD PLACE TERRY. THE Melbourne FESTIVAL SOLD OUT AND CLICKED OVER for the entire event. and Sydney We are pumped to 6,000 ATTENDEES, SETTING AN EPIC competitions see what Melbourne VIBE FOR THE ENTIRE EVENT. will go head to and Sydney heats head live on have to offer and stage at Hair Expo 2017, with guest judges, invite you to show your support. Tickets are international barbering icons The Schorem available through the Meatstock website: Barbers, Leen and Bertus. www.meatstock.com.au and for the grand At the first of the three comps, NZ kicked off finale, visit www.hairexpoaustralia.com with Geurt Renzenbrink and the Mr Barber to be held on June 12th at the ICC in team featuring a Barbering 101 educational Darling Harbour. session, paving the foundation for the live 14

he central attraction is the “Battle of the Barbers” - where competitors go head-to-head in a series of challenges that are equal parts hair cutting and boxing match - being super-hyped with ﬁerce competition. Barbers split across three classes (trainee, open, master) will have short periods of time to complete challenges in ﬁve categories - The Beard, The Shave, The

the barbershop, not just within the barbering profession, but to men and women considering becoming barbers, as well as all the potential clients and those who have an eye out for the latest in men’s haircutting, trimming and shaving trends. "It’s for everyone - from the fashion-conscious metro man to the hard-core heartland man. It’ll be fun and inspiring! It’ll be great to show

I T I S A FA N TA S TI C O P P O R T U N I T Y TO P R O M OT E TH E C H A N G I N G W O R L D O F T H E B A R B E R S H O P, N O T J U S T T O T H E B A R B E R I N G P R O F E S S I O N , B U T T O MEN AND WOMEN CONSIDERING BECOMING BARBERS, AS WELL AS ALL THE POTENTIAL CLIENTS AND THOSE WHO HAVE AN EYE OUT FOR THE LATEST LOOK AND FUTURE TRENDS

Classic, The Pattern and the Creative. BarberCra was born out of the huge resurgence of barbering in modern culture and celebrates the new wave of men’s grooming where elements of luxury and leisure are part of the experience. Alongside the competitions, "The Expo” will feature a wide range of men’s grooming products and equipment - as well as fashion and lifestyle retailers. "It’s going to open the door on a whole new world for a lot of people," says Julian Maloney, board member of the NZ Hair and Beauty Industry Training Organisation (HITO) - the instigators of BarberCra . "It’s a fantastic opportunity to promote the new world of

people the experience at the barber's shop can be fun and as big or small as you choose to make it." BARBERCRAFT MEN’S GROOMING EXPO 9:30am - 7:30pm - Sunday 21 May 2017 (Industry only preview Sat. 20 May) Shed 10, Queens Wharf, Auckland Waterfront, New Zealand www.barbercra .co.nz www.facebook.com/BarberCra NZ www.instagram.com/BarberCra NZ www.twitter.com/BarberCra NZ

BARBERCRAFT IS NEW ZEALAND’S SHARPEST MEN’S EVENT, FEATURING THE LATEST MEN’S GROOMING TRENDS AND PRODUCTS. AFTER A HIGHLY SUCCESSFUL FIRST EVENT IN 2016, BARBERCRAFT IS RETURNING TO AUCKLAND IN MAY 2017 AND IS GOING TO BE BIGGER THAN EVER.

Good böïîāöjĀ T h e b a r w o r ld , ju s t li ke t h e c a f e w o rl d , ha s d r i n ks t h a t c o m e o n t r en d e v e ry f e w yea r s . T h e Es pr es s o M a r t i n i i s o ne o f th o s e d r i n ks t ha t wi ll b e h a n g i n g a ro u n d a s th e new c o o l ki d o n t he b lo c k. I t s p o p u l a rity is m a t c hed o n ly b y o u r o b s es s i o n w ith g re a t c o f f ee, m a ki n g t h e m a r r i a g e b e tw e e n b o o z e an d es pr es s o a b i t t er s weet s ens a tio n . W h e n s h a ken , t h e n a t u r a l o i ls o f co f f e e c re a te a b ea u t i f u l, t h i c k c r em a la y e r, o v e r a d a r k a lc o h o l a n d c o f f ee b a s e - j u s t l ik e d r i n ki n g G u i n n es s i n a m a r tini g l a s s .

THE

ESPRESSO

MARTINI

TREND,

AND

IT'S

HERE

STAY.

here have been many interpretations mastered the flavour profile of a traditional major sponsor of 2017 The Cutthroat Barber of this drink, but coffee roasters are made drink from a cocktail bar. Wars competition. jumping with joy, because of its great They have experimented with this product for With the growing worldwide trend of ability to show off cold brew. Many bar over a year, tasting many espresso martinis Espresso Martinis, Justin and Duncan are drinks that incorporate coffee are sometimes in clubs, bars and restaurants in Australia and also concentrating their efforts in the Asian done badly, as they are made with instant Asia. marketplace. Along with Australia’s insatiable coffee, giving the drink a coffee taste per se, Starting the business in 2006, Directors Justin need for a great Martini, the pair are catering but not the depth of flavour that you can get Metcalf and Duncan Jamieson have grown into to that need and working hard on ensuring a from a good espresso or well prepared cold one of the largest manufacturers of coffee in great stable product. brew. With the Martini being a cold The bar industry is also very brew base, Justin and Duncan ESPRESSO MARTINI BY “JUSTIN METCALF” HAS ALREADY competitive with its drink have been working constantly R E C E I V E D G R E A T F E E D B A C K . N O W R E A D Y F O R M A R K E T, menus. Production techniques on providing a clean, hygienic J U S TI N A N D D U N C A N A R E LO O K I N G FO RWA R D TO S E RV I N G and recipes of these in-house and shelf stable beverage, IT UP TO THE REST OF AUSTRALIA. Espresso Martinis are closely which is vital in the safe guarded and as establishments manufacturing of this style of are getting rated over this beverage. drink, many are reluctant to share their Australia. Espresso Martini by “Justin Metcalf” has recipes. Innovation is also a key ingredient in what already received great feedback. Now One company that’s taken the next step is makes Aurigin Coffee different. With Duncan ready for market, Justin and Duncan are Aurigin Coffee - a 100% Australian owned and being a qualified food scientist and Justin’s looking forward to serving it up to the rest operated company in Melbourne, with a readycoffee knowledge (World Barista Judge) they of Australia. Espresso Martini is available in to-drink “Espresso Martini”. are currently undertaking multiple projects to 300ml “ready to drink” bottles and 20 litre Their aim was to simplify the process for quick offer differences in the marketplace. kegs for use in pubs, bars and clubs. The "on service at the bar, without sacrificing quality. This is an exciting period for the company, as tap" version produces amazing results, as it Backed by over 45 years of experience in they are entering into a completely different comes out creamy, without the need to be put coffee and manufacturing, Directors Justin environment - alcohol. Reintroducing a in a shaker. Metcalf and Duncan Jamieson have developed traditional drink such as the Martini brings From yours truly, I hope this cocktail hangs this ready-to-drink solution for retail and the James Bond experience back into popular around for a while, as it’s nice to be able to wholesale. men’s culture, placing this product perfectly enjoy a favourite coffee beverage day and Both Justin and Duncan believe they have into the barber world by taking on the role as night. 17

T H Y B a r b e r

ell us a bit about your background and how you became a barber ... I started hairdressing 12 years ago in my hometown in Kent. A er a few years, I made the move to London to progress my career in professional hair, working my way up to doing fashion shoots, catwalks and other projects. A er a while it kind of became a bit boring, and I realised that it wasn't for me. I was working full-time in a salon in Soho, and a er a while the majority of my clients were predominantly male. I ended up cutting hair quicker and quicker and realised that in a 45 minute appointment and doing 30 minute cuts, I was being le with 15 minute gaps between each client.

T THY BARBER IS A BARBER AND LIFESTYLE BRAND THAT SITS INSIDE A 12,000 SQUARE FOOT SHARED SPACE CALLED THE BIKE SHED. STARTING OUT AS A MOTORCYCLE BLOG, NOW TURNED BRICK & MORTAR, IS THE ULTIMATE ONE STOP SHOP OF CRAFTSMANSHIP FOR LIKEMINDED ENTHUSIASTS TO GATHER, NOT ONLY FOR A HAIRCUT BUT A BITE TO EAT, SHOP OR PERUSAL IN THE ART AND MOTORCYCLE GALLERY. LOCATED IN CENTRAL LONDON WE DROPPED BY ON THE BOYS IN THEIR 1950S INSPIRED WORKSHOP FOR AN IMPROMPTU VISIT AND QUIZZED FRANK ON BARBERING, LIFE AND WHAT’S NEXT!

means "your". Like thee and thou, thy came from Shakespearean times. So, it simply translates as Your Barber and for the last year and a half, it's stuck. What are your favourite products to use and why? I really enjoy using a product range called Copacetic. It's quite a new brand, but it's a great, well thought out recipe of diﬀerent matte products and a good, strong pomade. The branding is really cool too, old Art Deco styling from the 1920s, which is one of my favourite eras - that and the name are cool. Copacetic means no stress. "Everything is all copacetic". I love brands with a bit of thought behind them. What's your favourite cut/style and why?

WHEN I WAS COMING UP WITH THE NAME, I WANTED SOMETHING THAT WAS VERY BRITISH, WITHOUT BEING CLICHE. THEN I STATED LOOKING INTO THE OLD LANGUAGE WE USED TO USE IN THEATRE.

So, I took it upon myself to move fulltime into a barbershop and pursue this passion for men's hair, where I could also make the most out of a working day and be back to back with appointments from open to close. A er a few more years, I was fortunate enough to be able to open my own shop, and that's when Thy Barber was born. Where did the name Thy Barber originate, and how long has the business been established? When I was coming up with the name, I wanted something that was very British, without being cliché. Then I stated looking into the old language we used to use in theatre. The word "Thy" actually

My favourite cut is a long trim pompadour. I just love the fact it has every aspect of barbering in one cut. Strong tapers at the nape, solid scissor work on the sides and back, and you really need to know how to blowdry it into the right shape to make it looks its best. Plus, it's a super versatile cut. You can wear it in so many ways. What are your pastimes outside of barbering? I don't really get up to much apart from barbering right now. I've played guitar for the last 15 years and am still enjoying playing on a semi regular basis. My two dogs keep me pretty active at the weekends though. Going for long

T H Y B a r b e r

walks with them is a good way to keep my mind from exploding, as I can get out of the shop and grab some fresh air. I also love travelling; any chance I can get to visit a new place with my ﬁancée is always a great way to spend some spare time. Describe the culture of your shop/your team ... We are a retro shop; everything is from a past era. We play old Rock 'n' Roll and Psychobilly in the radiogram. We enjoy a good whiskey, and all the cuts are only classics. A good classic never dies, and that's what we base ourselves on. If you see any pictures of the shop, you'll see what I mean. Not to mention, the boys are all into the same stuﬀ too, even when it comes down to their personal appearances. They're just as into it all as I am. What has your biggest challenge been to date as a barber/businessman, and how have you overcome it? To be honest, I've been very fortunate that no major problems have happened. We've just worked really hard. Any business owner will know that it doesn't just happen overnight. We started as a two chair shop, now we are on our third chair, and hopefully we will be

able to expand in the near future. Opening up a shop is the biggest responsibility I've ever had, but I'm looking forward to seeing what curve balls I'm thrown in the future. You only learn from making mistakes. Good judgement comes from experience; experience comes from bad judgement. What is on your wish list as a barber? I'm never one for chasing the next zero. I'm not in this to be a millionaire. As long as I have a chair to work on, food in my belly, and enough money to have a bit of fun, then I'm the happiest guy in the world. Money isn't everything; having something that you are passionate about most certainly is. What are your fundamental tips for being a good barber? Patience: Rome wasn't built in a day. All these young barbers are coming out of nine week courses thinking they're the dog's danglies, but they need to put the time and eﬀort in to become masters. Respect: you need to respect the people above you. If someone comes over to teach you something, even if you're with a client, they're not doing it to belittle you; they're doing it to help. Take everything on board and then one day, you'll be able to share 21

your knowledge with the next generation of barbers. Humbleness: no one likes an ego. You could be the best barber in the world, but stay modest. People can smell an ego a mile away; that bitter smell isn't inviting, and clients will pick up on that. And you'll just end up being quiet in the shop due to bad attitude, not bad skill set. What is the customer asking for today? Customers are asking more and more for advice on how to style their hair, which is why we like to take our clients through the easiest ways to replicate what we do. People have been styling their hair the way we do since the early 1900s. All we have to do is pass on the information and knowledge. People come to us for vintage/classic looks. So, it's what we give them. What is your prediction for 2017 for barber trends? I think these styles are here to stay. Men have been wearing these cuts for nearly well over a century. I don't think they'll ever go out of fashion. I like to think of myself as a purist; funny thing is, these traditional looks have now bred other people to be purists too. And boy, do I love that!

MAKE MINE A METTERS. A Justin Metcalf ‘ metters’ Espresso Martini - OFFICIAL SPONSOR OF BARBER WARS 2017

MADE WITH REAL COLD BREW COFFEE

made in australia 22

@METTERSMARTINI www.luxe-brew.com service@luxe-brew.com

Jose, Karlos and Lopeti

B r o w n s b a y

B a r b e r s h o p

THE CUTTHROAT JOURNAL HAS MADE SOME GOOD FRIENDS ACROSS THE DITCH AND HAVE DELIGHTFULLY WATCHED SOME BUSINESSES BLOSSOM INTO EXCITING CONCEPTS. ONE OF THESE BARBERSHOPS IS BROWNS BAY TRADITIONAL BARBERSHOP, RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STRIP MALL AT BROWNS BAY ON AUCKLAND'S NORTH SHORE. he owner, José, has been a barber in Browns Bay for over 20 years and 16 years at the current shop. He is well known in town and is the go to for traditional styling and good old fashioned quality barber service. The shop has stuck to old school styling and has a regular walk in service. Not all come in for a cut, as it seems to be the place to stop by and say hello and chat about anything from the weather to if the ﬁsh are biting out in the bay, which is a stone's throw away.

José has a strong team of loyal barbers who all ﬁt into the friendly, casual atmosphere of the shop, and the day I was there, lots of fun banter was getting thrown around amongst the boys on the ﬂoor. The young guys have also given the shop a modern twist to the traditional business model, and some pretty

cool styles are hitting the streets of Browns Bay from these clever barbers. José stocks some cool men’s grooming products and well-known brands in the marketplace. He holds several New Zealand men’s products, supporting the local grooming industry. Browns Bay is a sought a er location to live at on the Auckland coastal north shore, and many of its inhabitants have been in the area for a long time. José has a charismatic personality, which draws customers back, and he practices what he preaches with excellent customer service skills. It was a pleasure to jump in the chair for a clean up from José and have a laugh with the rest of the guys in the shop. I always get a kick when a see a pile of well read Cutthroat Journals in a pile in the waiting area.

BROWNS BAY TRADITIONAL BARBERSHOP +64 9 479 5660 86 CLYDE ROAD, BROWNS BAY, AUCKLAND NZ

JI MM Y R OD S THE BARBERING EMPirE

FROM A YOUNG AGE, JIMMY ROD O’BRIEN REALISED HE WAS BOTH A DRIVEN AND MOTIVATED INDIVIDUAL. HE WAS RAISED IN A FAMILY THAT PROMOTED A HARD WORK ETHIC AND HIGHLY ADMIRED HIS FATHER, WHO WAS A BUSINESSMAN HIMSELF.

espite his family history within the building industry, Jimmy chose to commence his barbering trade at the age of 16. It was then that Jimmy envisioned opening his very own business empire. In 2003, at just 21 years of age, Jimmy opened a local barbershop in Oxley. Although the original store appeared to be small and modest, it was built on blood, sweat and tears and despite the design concepts evolving, the ingredients remain the same.

By 2014, there were eight stores, and the administration workload was overﬂowing. The two assembled desks that were located in the study of Jimmy’s own home had vanished beneath copious piles of paperwork, forcing Jimmy to investigate an alternative. It was at this point that the Jimmy Rod’s family increased, as a head oﬃce with a built-in warehouse was sourced and is now occupied by a number of employees, specialising in administration and operations.

became the flagship of the business, offering clients a variety of fine whiskeys with their shaves, a selection of wines and cocktails to appeal to female patrons and flavoursome lunch specials and share platters.

The store became highly successful and attracted regular clientele, due to Jimmy’s core objective - that being to combine the traditional barbering values with an innovative twist. The atmosphere of the store was jovial, the banter between barbers and customers was contagious, and the quality of cuts was incomparable. It became apparent that to accommodate the inﬂux of patrons, one store would not suﬃce and as a result, the stores began to multiply.

Jimmy Rod’s Barbershop continued to expand across Brisbane and in 2015, opened a store in Victoria. Since the ﬁrst day the doors were opened in High Point Shopping Centre, Jimmy Rod’s Barbershop has received an inﬂux of support and positive feedback.

Rather than take a break, the brand now has its sights set on another venture. The Jimmy Rod’s team are constantly seeking to deliver a standard that provides the highest of quality and consistency. Bearing this in mind and with the vast combination of carefully selected professionals at Jimmy Rod’s, the focus is now set on training, with the opening of their very own training school in the works.

As The Shave Saloon, Bar and Kitchen was introduced in 2016, another tick on the bucket list was obtained and they welcomed a range of connoisseurs, with extensive hospitality backgrounds, to the team. This venue quickly 24

At present, there are a total of 14 stores, with Toowoomba set to open within the coming days and with the intention of executing additional shop developments around Australia, in the future.

It remains a safe assumption that the sky is the limit for this barbering empire.

International barbering icons Down Under, a variety of the finest barbering brands, and the location for Barber Wars' final battle shows that Hair Expo in 2017 isn't just for the hairdressers. let's cut (pun intended) to the chase – we enjoy a good festival.

hether the focus is music, beer, food, or in the case of MeatStock, barbecuing, it feels pretty damn great to immerse yourself in a day or two (or three) of festivities, engaging with like-minded folks who share your enthusiasm. Hair Expo Australia has been coined the "Festival of Hair", something which doesn’t necessarily resonate with barbers who might see it as more of a hairdresser's playground. While this may have been true of past Expos, it seems the tide is turning on what Hair Expo is ready to oﬀer the barbering industry in 2017.

Shear revelry

Take, for instance, the forthcoming guest appearance of those illustrious Scumbags from Rotterdam, the Schorem Barbers. Leen & Bertus will be coming back down under for a creative education session in partnership with Reuzel and Haircare Australia at Hair Expo in Sydney and will of course indulge in their “jibber jabber about classic barbering”, to boot.

IF YOU WANT TO WATCH THE FINAL BATTLE, COME DOWN TO HAIR EXPO OVER THE QUEEN’S BIRTHDAY LONG WEEKEND 10 12 JUNE , WHICH IS GOING TO BE AT A NEW VENUE THIS YEAR IN SYDNEY’S DARLING HARBOUR WITH A DECENT DENSITY OF SURROUNDING BARS OFFERING COMPETITIVE HAPPY HOUR DEALS .

If you’d prefer to peruse pomades, good news - the offering of exhibitors catering to men’s grooming and barbering products is also expanding at Expo this year. Wahl, Mizutani, Reuzel, Andis, Feather Razors & Blades, Dushi Australia, and Comfortel Furniture are just some of the brands that will be on show at Expo in 2017. Barber Brands International will bring some of their 800 products across 25 brands to the show, including the likes of Layrite, Baxter of California, Burly Fellow, Truefitt & Hill, and Mühle. Barber Brands Internation n and Layrite will International also bring the revered reve Julius Cvesar from California to Hair H Expo, where he will speak about abou the distinction between choosing shears versus clippers for the best bes finished result, in an education session ses that’s sure to impress. And as if that wasn’t wasn enough to whet your appetite, Cutthroat Cutt Journal and Hair Expo have teamed tea up to hold

the final round of the Barber Wars competition at Hair Expo this year in Sydney, inviting the winners of the Auckland, Melbourne and Sydney rounds to compete for the grand title. So if you think you have the shear skill to shave away the competition at Barber Wars 2017, make sure you enter the first heats at MeatStock Melbourne’s takes place from 22 - 23 April, with Sydney’s from 6 - 7 May. If you want to watch the final battle, come down to Hair Expo over the Queen’s Birthday long weekend (10 - 12 June), which is going to be at a new venue this year in Sydney’s Darling Harbour (with a decent density of surrounding bars offering competitive happy hour deals). The final round of the Barber Wars competition will take place on Monday 12 June in front of the Expo crowds - CTJ will see you there. www.hairexpoaustralia.com

MIRROR

THE

POMADE

CHAIR

GOWN

NECK BRUSH

CLIPPERS

RAZOR

CLIPPER GUARDS

BOMB

WATER

COMB

SPRAYER

DUSTER BLOW

DRYER

GOTTA

TALC

SCISSORS

HaVe

Barber Essentials

BRUSH

LIVES ON A K U B R A

THE TRAVELLER, STYLEMASTER, BOGART, BRONCO, CROC AND CATTLEMAN … WHAT DO THESE ALL HAVE IN COMMON? THEY ARE JUST A SAMPLE OF OVER 100 STYLES AVAILABLE WHEN YOU PURCHASE AN AKUBRA HAT.

With a rise in fashionable hats over recent years, the focus has been back on the widely admired Aussie icon, with a new generation adopting their grandfathers' style of headware, such as the Fedora. O en recognised from The Man from Snowy River and Crocodile Dundee, Akubra has been an Australian institution for over 130 years, and its notoriety was taken to new heights of stardom when adopted by celebrities such as Greg Norman, Paul Hogan and more

recently, Pharrell Williams. It’s hard to believe that in this day and age of computers and technology that one of Australia’s most iconic home-grown products is manufactured in the same way it has been done for the past 130 years. Back in the early 1900s, there were a dozen or so felt hat makers in Australia, but that number has dwindled to on - and there are only a handful le throughout the world. With less competition than ever before,

there has been no strong investment to advance technology within the felt hat industry, so the complete process remains very much handmade and time-consuming. But on the ﬂip-side, the long-lasting cra smanship and durability shows through, with an Akubra expected to last 20 to 30 years if looked a er! In other words, you may ﬁnd a cheaper product elsewhere, but not of the same calibre … The grass roots of the company came

IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE THAT IN THIS DAY AND AGE OF COMPUTERS AND TECHNOLOGY THAT ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S MOST ICONIC HOME GROWN PRODUCTS IS MANUFACTURED IN THE SAME WAY IT HAS BEEN DONE FOR THE PAST 130 YEARS.

A K U B R A

T H E

M A K I N G

about when Benjamin Dunkerley, a fur cutter from Tasmania, developed an automated machine for cutting fur from pelts - which previously had to be performed by hand with scissors. Benjamin’s daughter, Ada, went on to marry British hatter, Stephen Keir I, and the company became known as Akubra. The Sydney based operation moved to the NSW Mid North Coast

the edge cutting, crowning, brimming and creasing, ﬁnishing oﬀ with a team of ladies adding leather bands, brim binding and stitching in satin lining. Each hat is handled around 200 times in manufacture, passing through 60 pairs of hands - hands of seasoned experts, some who have been working at the Akubra factory for over 40 years. There are no computers in the

T H E G R A S S R O OT S O F T H E C O M PA N Y C A M E A B O U T W H E N A F U R C U T T E R F R O M TA S M A N I A D E V E LO P E D AN AUTOMATED MACHINE, AND WENT ON TO MARRY THE DAUGHTER OF A BRITISH HATTER.

town of Kempsey in the 1970s, when the government was encouraging regional growth. Today, they employ over 100 locals under the very handson leadership of ﬁ h generation owner CEO Stephen Keir IV and his sisters, Nikki and Stacey. The process for making every Akubra begins the same way, by rabbit fur felting, and each hat takes between two to three weeks to produce. A stainless steel cone riddled with small holes becomes the ﬁrst shape of the hat, with an exhaust fan below that sucks the rabbit fur around the cone evenly. Various stages of wetting, steaming, stretching and drying compound the fur into a durable and stable product, followed by dyeing and hardening with a shellac. The shaping comes next, an ironing machine (helping to set the shellac), sanding machines to expel any long fur, then 33

hat making machinery; these experts work on decades old machinery kept in optimum condition by onsite mechanics. It’s 100% old fashioned manual labour - the kind of place where boys become men, with a responsibility of getting it 100% right every time. Akubra has been making a number of slouch hats for the Australian Armed Forces since World War One, and ﬁnally in 2012 they secured 100% of the contract to make over 20,000 slouch hats a year for our service men and women. Akubra is a proud Australian company that has developed into one of Australia’s most iconic brands and with 140,000 to 180,000 Akubra hats sold every year, they have every reason to be recognised and respected throughout the world. www.akubra.com.au

Photo Credit: Jacqueline Jane

S h o r t

b a c k

a n d

Sidewalks

Photo Credit: Matsu Photography

Photo Credit: Jacqueline Jane

Photo Credit: Henrik Nordstrom an you tell us a little bit about yourself? My name is Craig, and I founded the Short, Back & Sidewalks not-for-proﬁt back in 2015 alongside local barbers Justin Howley and James Howe, from Weston’s Barbershop in Perth. I’m originally from Glasgow and have been living in Australia for around 13 years.

What is the concept behind SBSW? To provide free haircuts for members of the community experiencing homelessness and those at the risk of experiencing homelessness. Having a fresh haircut is an unaﬀordable luxury for people struggling to eat on a daily basis or have a safe and warm place to sleep each night. Our service also gives people the opportunity to have some non-judgemental and warm hearted human contact, whether it be with our barber team or volunteers, the ability to have a conversation with another person is something we take for granted, but for some of our clients it’s something they may not get to experience all too o en. How does it work? At the moment we are focusing on being present in venues that are most comfortable for our clients. So for example, our team will notify service providers such as St. Barts House, The Salvation Army, Passages, Uniting Care Australia, RUAH or Kensington Street Transitional Accommodation a few weeks beforehand, and then turn up ready to go. Our events started back in early 2015, cutting around ﬁve clients in car parks around the Perth

CBD; however, now that we’ve become more well known in amongst the local street present community and that our clients are now more comfortable and aware of the service we provide, we can expect around 50 - 60 clients at any given cut each month.

provide to the community. We always say that it’s the most simple of things that make the largest amount of diﬀerence, and for us it’s just talking to people and giving folk the opportunity to share their story and to have some positive human connection.

What is your full-time job? I currently work in Sydney as a Senior Technical Oﬃcer for a company called AECOM. The job involves designing things like drains, sewers, cables and trenches - things you don’t really see all that o en, but they’re deﬁnitely there!

A lot of the things you hear these days surrounding homelessness tends to be negative; however, the clients we meet are quite o en some of the most warm hearted, positive people we’ve spoken to in a while, which really does say a lot.

How many barbers are involved? We’ve gone from having two barbers in the very beginning from Westons to now having a team that consists of around seven or eight different barber shops from Scarbrabarbra, His Lid, Hilly Billy Barber, Uncle Joe’s, Dandy Barber Co, Stanford Barber and The Milk Barber. How do you hope to see it grow? We hope to get SBSW running in every city across Australia. I’ve recently moved to Sydney for work and also to start SBSW over here, so this will be the next step. How can others help? You can help by following us on Instagram, which is @ shortbackandsidewalks or by getting on to our website and making a donation at www.shortbackandsidewalks.com What benefits do you see your service providing to the community? Since starting, we’ve seen so many benefits that our service (alongside loads of other services) is able to

Something that stands out surrounds a regular client of ours called Ian, who we’ve been cutting since back in 2015. Ian is also a member of On My Feet www.onmyfeet.org.au which is a program working to combat the nation’s rising homeless population by getting people out there exercising and involved back into society. Groups meet three nights a week, and people who prove they can show up to each session are sometimes given the opportunity of employment and education too. Thanks to Ian’s determination, he now has a parttime job and works with a food charity. Added to this, he recently ﬁnished not only the Perth City To Surf event, but travelled over to Melbourne and completed the marathon there as well! You should check out his story; it’s really inspiring! And it also goes to show with the combination of diﬀerent community services, the possibilities are there for people to start making the necessary steps towards restructuring their lives.

REGION

BER AL BAR

SHOP

M O O B GRAFTON, NEW SOUTH WALES. SIX HUNDRED CLICKS NORTH OF SYDNEY. HOST TO AUSTRALIA'S OLDEST FLORAL EXTRAVAGANZA, THE JACARANDA FESTIVAL. BIRTHPLACE OF COUNTRY MUSIC LEGEND TROY CASSAR-DALEY. HOME OF THE ONE AND ONLY WEEKEND OF TRUCKING. GRAFTON CAN BOAST MANY GREAT ACHIEVEMENTS, BUT WOULD YOU DRIVE THROUGH ITS BROAD, BLOSSOM-COVERED AVENUES FOR A CUT AND SHAVE?

ou may soon. Because, while the rise and rise of barbering in Australia’s cities has been well-documented, there are signs the modern barbershop has burst its urban confines and spread to the regions. Regional businesses are now backing local demand and putting their hard-earned into reno’s and training, with salon owners in remote towns across the state investing tens of thousands to secure a cut of the burgeoning male grooming market. We’re also seeing the introduction barber-specific apprenticeship programs in non-traditional

areas, such as those TAFE NSW offers in Coffs Harbour and Port Macquarie. Grafton is at the face of this expansion, and Kerrie DiMattia is one of the new breed of regional business people embracing the trend. DiMattia recently outlaid around $30,000 on a hairdressing salon renovation to include a stand-alone barbering area, Prince Street Barbers. She had already planned some sort of revamp but, with local demand for barbering clearly increasing, it was the perfect opportunity to capitalise and capture a new clientele. “I was expanding an existing business and 36

knew I wouldn’t be paying additional rent or other costs, so the risk was low. Since re-opening, it’s clear the diversification has led to significant growth and attracted a demographic we hadn’t seen before.” DiMattia said Prince Street Barbers averages 40 to 50 clients a week and is already breaking even. “That’s amazing for a new business, and having two separate offerings means the salon offsets the barber shop during quiet weeks and vice versa. “In particular, mums who bring their boys in for a cut with the barber see what we’re doing in the hairdressing salon and get excited. I’d

REGION

BER AL BAR

SHOP

BOOM

D U E TO TH E R E V I VA L A N D M O D I F I C ATI O N O F BARBERING AND BARBER SHOPS, IT HAS BECOME Q U I T E A S P E C I A L I S E D C R A F T. I T ’ S A T T H E P O I N T NOW WHERE THE LOCAL INDUSTRY IS ASKING US TO PROVIDE BARBER SPECIFIC QUALIFICATIONS, JUST AS WE DO IN HAIRDRESSING.

say two out of every 10 mums who bring their boys in enquire about hairdressing services for themselves.” Inevitably, the growth in barbershops has seen a corresponding rise in the demand for barbers skilled in modern techniques. There are genuine differences between barbers and hairdressers that require specific training. Barbering is as much about a culture and experience as a haircut. And then there’s the trust involved in letting a relative stranger hold a razor-sharp blade to your neck. Barbers must be skilled with their tools to avoid "accidents". TAFE NSW Barbering Head Teacher Betty Rensink said it has taken time for barbering’s uniqueness to become recognised outside of the major cities. “Until recently, barbering

has been considered a skillset, rather than a qualification,” Rensink said. “Due to the revival and modification of barbering and barbershops, it has become quite a specialised craft. It’s at the point now where the local industry is asking us to provide barber-specific qualifications, just as we do in hairdressing.

the unlikeliest of occupations. Nathan Thompson - one of TAFE NSW’s first barbering students - was at one stage set for a career in construction, before he swapped his screwdriver for a shaver and took up a job at DiMattia’s new venture.

“The Certificate III in Barbering teaches the latest, specialised skills, such as beard and moustache maintenance, face and head shaves, and techniques with hone and strop straight razors. Barbers are typically passionate about what they do, so we bolster that with a focus on sales and consultation that helps students provide that high-end, barber experience to clients.”

“I’d always had a career in barbering in the back of my mind, but the spur for me was seeing trade work drying up everywhere,” Thompson said. “I knew I needed something more stable, with greater long-term job security. I don’t see the growth in men’s grooming ending any time soon. It’s more than just a trend; a whole generation of men are now taking more care in their appearance across the board, and hair is a crucial element.”

The boom has also drawn workers from

Written by Matt Mullens.

Â&#x2018;'Â&#x2018;( + Bo r n, d e fr o s te d a nd r a i sed o n t he s hores of t he B a lt i c Sea . O n t he deep WI FI b o g s o f E s to ni a , a s i d e a mere mi lli o n peo ple. 2 5 y ea rs o n t hi s pla n et , a n d t h e l a s t s ix y ea rs on ma n y di f f eren t co n t i n en t s .

lways on the mission to ďŹ nd the most interesting people around. A little weird goes a long way. There are so many diďŹ&#x20AC;erent qualities to like in people, starting from simple facial hair, to warmheartedness. But in the end, I believe that everything starts from the attitude. In Europe, it is hard to get a job in most ďŹ elds when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re self taught. Even a certiďŹ cate from a master doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give you any guarantees. This is why I have

society that New Zealand has. I think I am still totally mesmerised right now by the popularity and growth of the barbering culture on this side of the planet. As a barber, you o en have to be a kind of a psychiatrist as well. Being a good listener is a big part of it. I love to hear the diďŹ&#x20AC;erent stories people come in with. Giving them a diďŹ&#x20AC;erent perspective on their thoughts and trying to help as I can â&#x20AC;Ś and meanwhile, giving a possibly

Sometimes I meet someone for a brief moment, but within that short period of time he/she manages to open my mind and introduce me to a diďŹ&#x20AC;erent way of seeing things. O en I think about these moments and remind myself to value them. This is just one bonus of being a barber. Collecting stories from customers, as well as co-workers. People at Barkers are a big inspiration for me. I'm extremely grateful for the warm welcome, trust and experience Barkers has provided. I

AS A BARBER YOU OFTEN HAVE TO BE A KIND OF A PSYCHIATRIST AS WELL. BEING A GOOD LISTENER IS A BIG PART OF IT. I LOVE TO HEAR THE DIFFERENT STORIES PEOPLE COME IN WITH. GIVING THEM A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE ON THEIR THOUGHTS AND TRYING TO HELP AS I CANâ&#x20AC;Ś AND MEANWHILE GIVING A POSSIBLY YOUNG MAN A GENTELMANS SERVICE.

ďŹ nished two years of full hairdressing school to make people take me seriously in this world. I surely learned much about trichology and colour science, but Wellington has given me experience that I never would have got in Estonia. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learned a lot about diďŹ&#x20AC;erent hair structures and styles. The colours and curls. The type of hair that would be hard to ďŹ nd in northern Europe but is in abundance here in a multi-cultural

young man a gentleman's service. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart warming to see the same people come back. Gives you conďŹ dence that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re doing the right thing and also a chance to build up a stronger, friendlier relationship with the customer. I want everybody to be comfortable when giving a close cutthroat shave or hair wash and have them leave the barbershop with new free breathing, feeling refreshed and conďŹ dent.

am happy that I have found such great people to be surrounded with. Four years ago living in Melbourne, I saw the ďŹ rst barbershop of my life. That triggered a dream to become a barber. Necessary steps were made and a er years of learning, practicing and hard work, my journey has brought me back to this side of the world - ready for challenges and to take on new missions down under.

Barber Culture’s expansion into the world of first class barber chairs continues with the brand’s latest arrivals.

The range is purposely manufactured to provide barber shops with an exciting array of sophisticated style, strength and colour. Strong and deliberate, it eclipses all

Barber Culture El Chapo

expectations and is the weapon of choice in the arsenal of Barber Culture revolution. Gone are the days when barbershops were considered the lesser equal of fashionably fitted hairdressing salons. Barbershops now have the guns to offer a third dimension of choice that combines individuality with class and comfort, to blast away the clinical old style looks of traditional barbershops. Barber Culture furniture is precision built and superbly fashioned by master craftsmen, combining the nest materials and components that provide effortless functions. Chunky gleaming metal finishes, extremely durable, luxurious, high density, premium grade leatherette expertly moulded and crafted. In-built with cast aluminium footrest, with ultra-strengthened supports, AAA grade hydraulic and base, these chairs set the standard for all barbershops.

Barber Culture Escobar

Barber Culture El Chapo El Chapo has an air of prestige, with smooth black leatherette and sturdy aluminium framing. Your client will feel the barbershop vibe in a classic design, but with a modern twist of elegance and superiority. Available in black, red, brown and green. Measurements: 123 cm H (highest setting inclined) 70 cm W (lever to arm) 100 cm D (footrest to end of seat inclined)

cut above the rest

Barber Culture Escobar Escobar ﬁts the more traditional mould of barber shop chairs, like taking a seat in the Old West. Available in exquisite red, black, brown, green or white leatherette, the Escobar emits the old school vibe of the barbershop. Measurements: 122 cm H (highest setting inclined) 70 cm W (lever to arm) 100 cm D (footrest to end of seat inclined)

Federico Barber Chair The classic style barber chair, the Federico is manufactured with an array of quality components that sets it apart from all the rest! A clean body with gleaming metal ﬁnishes, along with specialised vinyl stitching and vinyl art, super stylish hydraulic, removable head rest and the ease of all moving parts all combine to make the Fed a strong, attractive and built to last barber chair with outstanding comfort. The Fed’s distinctive appeal lends its class to any traditional or contemporary barbershop design, inspiring both staﬀ and clients alike. Measurements: 104 cm H 72 cm W 120 cm D

Federico Barber Chair View more of Barber Culture’s range at amr.com.au 41

Interviews by Rachel Morton from Barber Brands

HOT

TOPICS

Ebony Walsh THE

BARBERHOOD

BARBERING IS THE TRADE OF GENTLEMEN. THE FEEL OF LEATHER, A SHARP BLADE, AND THE FAINT SCENT OF A SINGLE MALT SCOTCH MASCULINITY AT ITS FINEST. IT IS A PLACE OF SKILL, CLASS AND CREATIVITY. WITH DRAWCARDS LIKE THAT, IT IS NO SURPRISE THE INDUSTRY IS CONTINUING TO GROW.

hilst the barber chair is still reserved for a fella in need, the trade is becoming more inclusive for those seeking to make the permanent career shi from hairdresser to barber. One such lady is Ebony Walsh, who proudly hails from The Barberhood in Sydney. With over 4,200 followers on Instagram, she is definitely earning her title as the @queenoffades. A er seeing that she had cut the hair of the charming Dave Bayley from Glass Animals, I had to get in contact to find a little bit more about what it is like to be a lady barber in a man’s world. What made you want to get into barbering? I started in hairdressing when I was sixteen and did quite a few competitions involving men’s hair and fashion during my apprenticeship. I’ve always preferred the barbering side and recently made the swap from hairdressing to barbering full-time. What is the largest struggle you face in barbering? I have been lucky to not have any struggles, really. If anything, there have been some clients that like to challenge me cutting their hair, just for the fact I’m a girl, and girls can’t cut guys' hair. 42

Where do you draw inspiration? Instagram! It’s endless the amount of inspiration you can get from social media. When I see a client, I automatically begin thinking about various elements that could look good and work on the client. Luckily enough, most clients trust me to decide what I think will work on their hair and face. It is nice to know they trust my skills and experience in the industry to cut their hair freely with my own expression. What is your favourite men’s hairstyle to cut? At the moment my favourite hairstyle would be the comb-over with a subtle part. Although, I like to cut it so the client has a variety of ways to style it, so they aren’t stuck with the one look. If you could change one thing in the industry, what would it be? If I had to change one thing it would have to be the client's perspective of a barber. Barbers are o en viewed as the cheap haircut, rather than a complete service catering to all men. I’ve noticed the shi , but the perception is still there. Do you have a favourite product? Right now my favourite is Baxter of California Clay Pomade. It’s a medium hold and a very natural look - it holds up to its name; there is no false advertising. I love and recommend it!

Maria Long THE

LITTLE

BARBERSHOP

THERE IS NO DENYING THAT THE BARBERSHOP IS COMING BACK WITH A BANG. WITH SO MANY BARBERSHOPS OPENING, THERE HAS BEEN A SHORTAGE OF BARBERS WITH THE SKILLS AND PASSION THAT IT TAKES TO MAKE IT IN THIS CUTTHROAT INDUSTRY.

errible puns aside, I truly believe that making room for lady barbers behind the chair is a big step in barbershops getting more guys in, and keeping them coming back.

For those unbelievers, let me introduce Maria Long, owner of The Little Barbershop in Woolloomooloo ... Proving if you aren’t hiring the skills of the lady barber, she’ll start her own barbershop - and kick butt at it too. What made you want to open your own barbershop? I’ve wanted to open my own shop for years, because I have always had a vision of how I wanted it. I knew that with the experience I had working around guys for such a long time that I could really make it work. I felt conﬁdent that I knew what guys wanted from a hair salon experience. What is the largest struggle you face in barbering? The largest struggle I face is that there are always new barbershops opening. It is deﬁnitely becoming a trend that a lot more

guys are more keen to go to barbershops now, rather than the high end boutique salons, so keeping up with what’s going on is important.

people that all have a diﬀerent sense of style. Woolloomoolloo is deﬁnitely a very diverse area.

What is your favourite men’s hairstyle to cut? The styles that I love to do are short fades - something really clean, tight and fresh. Nothing better than a nice sharp looking haircut.

Creating new styles and making people feel good about themselves is something I love.

Where do you draw inspiration from? I draw inspiration from catwalks, magazines and just seeing people on the street and looking at what sort of styles men have. I’m constantly checking out guys' hair whenever I’m walking around. Who has your favourite client been? Why? I would say that my favourites are my clients who have been following me around for years. There’s nothing I love more than a loyal client. What do you love most about the industry? What I love most is seeing all the new trends that come about and meeting diﬀerent

Do you have a favourite product? Why do you love it? My favourite product by far is Layrite Cement. It’s a matte product with amazing hold. It is easy to apply and easy to wash out. Layrite also smells amazing. Cement is one of my best sellers. If you could change one thing about the industry, what would it be? I think if I could change anything it would be to get the old school barbershops to put their prices up. I feel like barbering has always had the label of "cheap" haircut attached to it. I feel like barbering is a great skill to have and by selling yourself short,it devalues the industry. You have to know what you are worth.

Times are deﬁnitely changing - I believe for the better! For the ﬁrst time in ten years of distribution, Barber Brands International will be making a splash in Sydney’s Hair Expo. They pride themselves in being the leading importer and distributor of premium male grooming. They hear the demands of the industry, for more diverse, unique men’s ranges for barbershops, and for barber education, and are acting on it. Ladies and gentleman alike, feel free to join them on the June long weekend in 2017. 43

OLD old

S CH O O L

M U R D O C K

B A R B E R S H O P S

S wa p y o u a fl a t w h i t e a nd s m a s h ed a v o o n so urdo ug h f o r a clos e sha v e wi t h S l o e G i n? A us t r a l i a h a s c a r ve d t he wa y f or t he UK c of f ee s cen e, a ppa ren t b y L o nd o n' s r e c e nt i nfl ux o f A uss i e b a ri s t a s , ca f e own ers a n d roa s t i n g b ra n d s . But th r o u g h o u t A us t r a l i a, t he mo re recen t t ren d i n b es po k e, b o ut i que b a rb e rs h o p s h a s c r e a te d a ne e d fo r s k i lled b a rb ers a n d t hei r ex peri en c e ga i n ed f ro m a fa r . W e a r e p l a y i ng s w aps wi t h our cult ura l a cc ompli s hmen t s.

gentlemen’s shave. In the vibrant area of Shoreditch, a Murdock’s sits on the bustling back lane of Redchurch Street. Set in between the Australian T2 tea merchants and a kiwi Allpress Espresso bar, this barbershop is the epitome of British. Red, white and blue from ﬂoor to ceiling and smelling of traditional leather and Cedar wood scents, the only thing missing is a British Bulldog in the doorway.

So what is happening on the European scene that the Aussies find so intriguing? We have seen the Nomad Barber from Brick Lane, the Schorem boys from Rotterdam, and slowly more and more of the European talent are making their way across the water to sunnier climbs to set up shop and showcase their skills. But what has London really got going on … We went to check it out and came up with one major influence. It’s diversity! Being one of the world's most visited cities, people from far and wide are drawn to this bubbling pot of culture, where history-rich streets meet the modern influences of new architecture, flavours and fashions. To survive the test of time in such a transient town, brands and businesses need an edge and for the barbershop brand Murdock, theirs appears to be in their ability to adapt to their surroundings. With eight barbershops across some of the most well-known suburbs of the "big smoke", Murdock was set up ten years ago by Brendan Murdock and has captured their client-base by becoming masters of tradition and in particular, the

Deborah Curwell has worked at this store for four years and says the key is in their loyal customers, their bespoke product range and their ability to offer a full service of a hair-cut, shave and experience that meets the mark in every way. They must be doing just that, as in this town there are shops on every corner, and competition is fierce. Deborah explained that this is also reflected in their product range - designed to meet the demands of themselves as barbers, a er trialling products from other brands that didn’t quite cut it. The range offers everything a gent could need, with inspiration from the best of British. Colognes built from inspiration of enjoying Pimms in the garden, handmade shirt stays from Notting Hill and beard-grooming kits designed and hand cra ed in the UK ... Everything offered within these four walls is the utmost of class and sophistication. It appears that with the tattoo and skate inspired rough around-the-edges style barbershops across Australia being at the height of popularity, we may need to get ready for the next wave - a notso-new era of grooming. Back to the old-school, the old, old-school! Quick, get the Old Spice and tie-pins out! "The Gent" is back. Written by Fi Mason.

MINORITY not right THE

S T O R Y

B Y :

S E A N

E D W A R D S

I WRITE THIS ARTICLE WITH CAUTION, AS I DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T WANT TO OFFEND ANYONE PARTICULARLY THE LGBTI COMMUNITY. NEVERTHELESS, WHAT I AM REPORTING ON IS A CONTENTIOUS ISSUE I FEEL QUITE STRONGLY ABOUT AND RAISES SOME LEGITIMATE CONCERNS THAT BEING WHEN MINORITY GROUPS CHAMPION THEIR CAUSES AT THE EXPENSE OF OTHERS' LIVELIHOODS AND TO THE DETRIMENT OF BARBER CULTURE.

his commentary stems from a recent trip to the USA, when I called into my local barber in Milwaukie, Portland. This shop is called Anvil Barbers, and we have done a review in past issues of this gem in the Oregon heartland. This business is a museum of old school barbershop memorabilia - a nod to skilled artisans in a bygone era - run by the two nicest guys on the planet, Marcus and Ryan.

This day I called in they were unusually quiet and reserved - not the usual loud and boisterous mob I’ve come to know. I sat up in the chair and threw some small talk about, until I said to them, quizzing, “Hey guys, what’s up with you all?" Marcus proceeded to tell me a story about two ladies who recently came into the shop, one of whom asked for an

following the ladies airing the incident on Yelp and social media. In an unprecedented response, the guys received hundreds of comments accusing them of being homophobic, declaring that they did not have the right to turn away lesbians from their barbershop. First and foremost, Marcus explained to me was that the ladies’ sexual orientation simply did not come into the equation. “This is Portland, Oregon - you can’t put anyone in a category in this city, as everyone’s an individual and if I did that, we would never survive,” he said. The boys did what they thought was right and started to defend themselves on the various social media platforms, which only escalated the situation, as arson and death threats ensued. What really hurt these guys was having

established. In his southern drawl, Ryan uses the analogy that “you can’t buy chicken from a bakery”. Barbering has its roots in an ageold tradition that celebrates men’s culture, oﬀering gents a place of connectivity and community. Beyond the razor and scissors, the men’s-only barber is one of the few private spaces le where men can bond and be open with their feelings, which is at the core of this great industry. I see this all over the world and truly believe there is cause to protect this sacred space. Indeed, there are other businesses that operate on a single gender basis, such as women’s only gyms and health clubs who are likewise objectively justiﬁed in this business decision. Ultimately, the boys decided they would go about things as normal and stopped

THE FIASCO CONTINUED TO GAIN MOMENTUM AS THE NATIONAL MEDIA GOT WIND OF THE STORY, WITH THE NEW YORK TIMES MAKING ENQUIRIES ABOUT THE ENCOUNTER, THEN THE LOCAL PRESS JUMPING ON BOARD AS WELL.

undercut. Marcus respectfully explained he was a male-only barber and does not cut women’s hair, as he is not trained as a hairdresser. The ladies looked somewhat bewildered at his response and did not say a lot, leaving the shop without any controversy. The lads thought nothing more of the exchange, as it has happened many times in the past, when they have politely turned away ladies without confrontation or concern. The ambience of Anvil Barbers has a strong male-orientated vibe, what with its old-school relics and other blokey stuﬀ adorning the walls; despite this, concerns about discrimination or diversity have never been ﬂagged. In fact, I have o en noticed mothers accompanying their sons getting a cut on my previous visits. That night the boys’ Facebook and Instagram accounts were inundated with hate mail from the LGBTI community

their identities thrust into the limelight and having their beliefs publicly questioned. Both are staunchly against the viliﬁcation or discrimination of any minorities, or indeed anyone. Both boys are married, and Marcus has two daughters, so naturally they are in support of gender equality. Likewise, they have many gay friends and are respectful of sexual identity and choice. Marcus also revealed that because of his heritage he had been discriminated against throughout his childhood, the volatile nature of which he had not fully recovered from, and he can sympathise with the plight of minorities. The ﬁasco continued to gain momentum, as the national media got wind of the story, with the New York Times making enquiries about the encounter, then the local press jumping on board as well. This directly resulted in a downturn in business and a dive in revenue, particularly the a er-school trade, as mothers shunned the

responding to hate mail, continuing to focus on giving customers their regular excellent treatment. Slowly but surely, business returned to normal and the keyboard warriors lost interest, with Anvil Barbers winning their credibility back within the community. In due course the two ladies apologised to the boys for having ignited the controversy. Although grateful for their remorse, the boys only wish they had been more honest and transparent at the outset, before taking the matter online. This story is not about running a particular group down, but rather serves as a call for a greater awareness of our actions and their consequences on others. An ode to consideration and above all - respect. Just as the push for diversity is tied to respect, the courtesy of respect should extend to all - and in this case, respect for business decisions whose foundation might not be abundantly clear or understood.

With sean edwards

scoverin

he Golden Gate city has been accepting of the LGBTI community and is evident in areas like Upper Market and Castro.

As you walk the streets of San Francisco, the polarising status classes can go from dirty grunge to high street living in as little as one block.

BARBERSHOPS San F r a ncis c o is o n e of t h e mos t c ult ur a lly di ver s e cities in t he US A . I t s b l e n d of glob a l immigr ant s h a s s h a p ed the fa s hion of t his ci t y, s o i t has it s ow n uniq ue i de n t i t y.

The men’s barbershops that I have visited are all big spaces with lots of light and expensive ﬁt-outs that you would ﬁnd in nightclubs. This big investment in design is proving successful, as many of these stores have a waiting list for services like a cut or shave. The prices are a lot higher than other cities for a regular cut; however, in a city like San Fran, the rent is considerably expensive. One of my favourite shops on this trip is Peoples Barbers in Oakland. It is one of three 50

businesses they own in San Francisco. Their Oakland ﬁt-out is unique, as it was once an old mechanics business, still with the roller doors, high roof and open space. They have created a good mix of old school charm, modern service, and there's a large range of men’s grooming choices on oﬀer. Fellow Barbers from New York also have stores in San Francisco, creating a very disconcerting following of men who are chasing some top end pampering in their cool space. They have two stores in San Francisco, with wait times around two hours for walk ins. There is a good array of eclectic barbers in other bayside suburbs that service San Fran. It’s a pity I didn’t have the time on this trip to fully get around to check them out. I guess this means I will have to come back again and explore this wonderful city some more.

ENH AN C E Y O U R BA R BE R I NG CA R E E R 1HZ *RYHUQPHQW VXEVLGLVHG IXOO WLPH FRXUVH DQG &HUWLรฐFDWH ,,, LQ %DUEHULQJ $SSUHQWLFHVKLS DYDLODEOH now* &RQWDFW 8OWLPR FDPSXV _ &RQGLWLRQV DSSO\ &RXUVH FRGH 6+% 572 1R 52

MEET THE AHC CEO

S C

A H

N O

D N

Y G

THE AUSTRALIAN HAIRDRESSING COUNCIL THE AHC BECAME A REGISTERED, NOT FOR PROFIT ASSOCIATION IN 2010, AFTER THE REQUEST OF INDUSTRY STAKEHOLDERS INITIATED A MEETING WITH THE THEN SERVICE SKILLS. PRESENT AT THIS MEETING WERE STATE ASSOCIATIONS, SALON OWNERS, PRODUCT COMPANY GMS, RTOS AND EDUCATORS, AND INDUSTRY ASSOCIATED STAKEHOLDERS.

t was decided that it was time for one national voice to represent industry matters to government and bureaucrats, and to address the concerns of industry today. This included the necessity to turn around a negative career image, in order to encourage youth to consider our industry as a career of choice. First up on the AHC agenda was to lobby government to return the barber qualification and the barber apprenticeship to every state and territory. Due to the lack of state association activity, this project had the AHC conduct consultative meetings in every state of Australia, to show a national interest from barbers and the hairdressing industry. Present at these meetings were barbers, RTOs and teachers, hairdressers and state training authorities. As a result of these meetings, the AHC became a major influence in the decision to rewrite the training package, discarding compulsory skills in perming and colouring, and requesting these to be elective. Once the barber qualification was developed, the AHC was instrumental in lobbying every State Government to accept a barber apprenticeship. Once again, there was very little influence or work from state associations. Our Board of Directors represent all industry stakeholders. The barber qualification is just one project that the AHC has tirelessly worked on. With this project, kudos belongs to Wendy Blair, Chair of Education and Training on the AHC Board. Her countless meetings and submissions to Federal and State Ministers, held at Parliament House, and in cities such as Perth, Darwin, Melbourne and Brisbane, including regional towns, finally saw the apprenticeship rolled out across Australia. As very few of our members are barbers, we were not funded to

do this project, yet Wendy Blair still personally pursued this project in the interest of the barber industry. The AHC may only have been in operation for six years, but has achieved much in that time compared to other associations, who have been in operation for up to 90 years. So what else do we do? And what are our future plans? Many business owners are fed up with the industry’s negative reputation, and it’s o en said that our industry should be licensed or registered. Let’s think about this … Who would licence our industry? Public servants who have no interest or care factor for our profession? RTOs, or as we know them, TAFE; or private colleges? Yes, colleges would make a lot of money if given this role. Unfortunately, not all colleges that deliver barbering or hairdressing would be considered as ethical businesses. And what would it take to be “registered”? The Industry’s VET system is already responsible for delivering thousands of unemployable qualiﬁed hairdressers in to the industry. Many of these are now our backyard hairdressers or barbers being paid in cash and giving the industry a negative image. Six years ago, the AHC saw a need to benchmark a standard in business. An accreditation/check list was written for salon owners, as well as colleges, to attain a recognised standard called Salon Select and RTO Select. This standard or accreditation could also be available for the barber industry. As it is already written, based on business and not hairdressing, it could be easily adapted for the barber industry. The AHC feels the barber industry should be represented by their own, and the AHC is prepared to support this. We have over 300 resources for businesses, including resources for colleges, as well as 53

IR and employment advice from employment lawyers. We run industry events with relevant speakers of interest to anyone in business. We actively promote AHC members to consumers looking for quality salons, plus have a high presence on all social media channels, including private pages for youth, salon owners and colleges to interact, gain advice, keep informed and network. We advertise our standards to consumers via our shop decals and certificates, salon locators on www.salonselect.com.au and the AHC website (www.theahc.org.au). The AHC has just introduced a new Green accreditation written by Board Director Paul Frasca, sustainability guru and owner of recycling business, Sustainable Salons. Currently the AHC is benchmarking the industry to attain some real statistics for the benefit of our members. This project is for members, and also non-members. All information is collated in a data pool and is totally confidential. No business, including the AHC, has access to any individual salon’s data. By entering your own data, a report is generated on where your business sits with industry KPIs. This is a free service to anyone who chooses to participate. If you’d like to be involved, go to this link: www.benchmarking.com.au/ahc16 We have many member benefits, from industry event discounts, updates to employment information, resources and continual engagement with members, to ensure they are always informed. The AHC would love to engage with barbers who would be committed to contributing their time to either commence their own association or committee along with the support of the AHC. For more information, please email Sandy Chong at ceo@theahc.org.au or Wendy Blair at training@theahc.org.au

Arts

NelsonNokela ARTIST

A frother of the Iconic early surf and skate Culture.

POSEIDON

MEDUSA

have also had the privilege of working with a few higher fashion brands and retailers, like Vivienne Tam, Roccobarocco, Next UK, and Marks & Spencer. How would you describe your style? My work is o en symmetrical and features bold over saturated neon colours with bold line work that is visible from afar. Intricate line work is a major constituent of my pieces, and it o en produces a different story up close. I use all types of media, but o en prefer to just use basic tools such as sharpie pens and highlighters. My art aims to keep the classic art from the skate surf culture alive. I attempt to capture the essence of those eras, whilst making it relevant for today. I maintain a personalised, modern aesthetic, as I nod to the past. Where do you find inspiration? The inspiration for my work comes predominantly from all the amazing skate and surf art I grew up with as a kid. One of my fondest memories ell us a little bit about yourself. How did you become an artist? as a child was walking into the skate shop to buy my very first What path did you take to get here? Did you complete any study? skateboard, and just being blown away by the choices in design for the I have been doodling and drawing for as long as I can remember. It deck itself. Just the vast raw detail and vibrantly colourful art on the always came quite naturally, and I just found it really relaxing. Like a lot boards, coupled with the "in your face" spirit that they possessed really of other kids, my school books were covered with more scribbles than captivated me. I think I spent close to an hour admiring them, before anything else. In junior school,, these scribbles were mostlyy of skate even beginning to and surf brand logos. They decide on one. My then slowly progressed dad used to buy ONE OF MY FONDEST MEMORIES AS A CHILD WAS WALKING INTO THE in complexity as the high me a lot of Mad SKATE SHOP TO BUY MY VERY FIRST SKATEBOARD, AND JUST BEING school years rolled in. A er magazines as a kid BLOWN AWAY BY THE CHOICES IN DESIGN FOR THE DECK ITSELF. school, I still didn’t really too, so I spent a lot think (or know) I might be of hours studying able to pursue this hobby them. The art in them contained a lot of great parody and satire for as a career. I owe a huge thanks to my mum, who enrolled me in a social commentary. They made me realise that art could be more than graphic art college on the Gold Coast, and it is there that I obtained my just a drawing. It could really contain a message, or tell a story! I learnt diploma. Upon graduating, I went straight into the design industry as a that art can capture a mood or tone, and it doesn’t always have to have graphic designer/artist. serious undertones like the fine art world might suggest. How long have you been an artist? Where have you worked Who are some of your favourite artists? I take my hat off to the some of the great artists of the early skate era, such as VCJ (Vernon Courtlandt) and Jim Phillips. More recent artists to emerge that I admire include Brian Romero, Chris Yee, Mander, and The Bicicleta Sem Freio Duo, who are also doing amazing stuff!

previously? I have been working as a graphic artist full-time for almost 11 years. So far it has been a really exciting and rewarding career path, and it has taken me all around the world. I have worked for a lot of surf/ skate companies, such as Ripcurl, Volcom, Billabong and Element. I 55

THE KNIFE IS THE OLDEST TOOL IN A CHEFâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ARMOURY OLDER EVEN THAN THE MANAGEMENT OF FIRE, BY SOMEWHERE BETWEEN A MILLION AND TWO MILLION YEARS. EVEN AT THE EARLIEST STAGES OF HUMAN TOOL MAKING, MAN WAS NOT RANDOMLY SLASHING AT HIS FOOD, BUT MAKING CAREFUL DECISIONS ABOUT WHICH CUTS TO MAKE WITH WHICH TOOLS. KNIVES ARE OFTEN OUR PRIMARY INTERACTION BETWEEN OURSELVES AND OUR FOOD IT IS WITH THIS IN MIND THAT CUT THROAT KNIVES ARE DESIGNED TO ENHANCE THE COOKING EXPERIENCE.

ladesmith Aidan Mackinnon is part of a new generation of knife makers, focusing on creating highend bespoke kitchen tools for avid home cooks and chefs. Aidan handcra s all the knives in his shop. Starting with a hunk of steel and a slab of wood, he works to create beautiful knives that perform at the very highest level for a lifetime of service and enjoyment. Each knife spends 15 - 20 hours in his hands. Aidan uses a variety of steels, high carbon and stainless, chosen because they excel in the kitchen environment. The handles

are made with Australian hardwoods and are sealed with a variety of oils and wax to bring out the beauty of the burl.

more important than learning once again to value what we buy, and feel a connection to the people who create around us?

Quality has no substitute; throwaway culture deserves disposal; and timehonoured skills are worthy of recognition.

I strive to achieve two things with every knife I make. Firstly, that each knife is made with the utmost quality and integrity; and secondly, that each knife will go on to bring a lifetime of service and culinary enjoyment.

PURPOSE: To build beautiful high-end kitchen tools that will last a lifetime and enhance the cooking experience of the user. MANIFESTO: In a world of increasingly disposable, valueless items, where homes and garage sales and superstores are packed with mediocre pieces that are bought, used, and ignored, what could be

AIDAN MACKINNON +61 435 597 202 aidan@cutthroatknives.com.au www.cutthroatknives.com.au

Picture 1

JA ME S D IX o n The weekend woodworker

Picture 2 58

WE ALL HAVE A YEARNING, OR MAYBE EVEN A DESTINY, TO MAKE SOMETHING OUT OF WOOD. I HAVE SEEN NOVICES BUILD SOME AMAZING THINGS WITH JUST A FEW SIMPLE HAND TOOLS IN THEIR GARAGES. IF DONE RIGHT, THE END RESULT WILL LAST FOR CENTURIES AND WILL BECOME A FAMILY HEIRLOOM ESPECIALLY IF YOU ADD YOUR NAME, SIGNATURE AND DATE TO IT.

ere is some advice to start you oﬀ on the right foot and demystify timber selection for your weekend woodworking project, as well as some handy tips on glues and lacquers. Selecting timber Something I hear all the time is, “Why is my wood bent?” So, you bought planks from the hardware store, cut them to size, and the following weekend some of the boards had twisted, cupped or bent out of shape. Let’s make it easy, and call this change of shape “movement”. The easiest way to avoid movement is to select the right boards for the job and take a few precautions. With over 100,000 species of trees in the world, I am going to skip to selecting the

and see lots of straight lines across the shortest cross section, this part of the board has been “quarter sawn” and should have straight grain. If you see a lot of curved lines across the longest cross section, the board has been “back sawn” and should have curly grain. (Picture 1.) Straight grain boards are better for long unsupported sections. For example, the long brace between the legs on tables or the frame around the panel of a cupboard door. Whereas, curly grain boards are generally more attractive and can be used for short panels that are supported. For example, the panel in the center of the cupboard door frame where it is supported on all sides, or your coﬀee table top that is screwed to the frame underneath. Straight grain boards are generally easier to

future article. By the way, the NSW River Red Gum is the red board. (Picture 2.) Don’t be a cheapskate when buying glue or lacquer. So, you spent good money on selecting the perfect timber, then you spend an entire weekend on your project. How can you be sure it stays together and the finish looks good and lasts? Here are a few tips! Check the use by date of your glue, buy a good quality known brand glue, never buy glue from the two dollar shop, follow the instructions on the packaging, give the glue time to set, and don’t run your fingers over the faces you are gluing together, as oil off your skin can stop the glue from sticking to the timber.

SO, YOU SPENT GOOD MONEY ON SELECTING THE PERFECT TIMBER, THEN YOU SPEND AN ENTIRE WEEKEND ON YOUR PROJECT. HOW CAN YOU BE SURE IT STAYS TOGETHER AND THE FINISH LOOKS GOOD AND LASTS?

right boards and leave the type of timber up to what you can lay your hands on at the time. Generally, boards will move based on: the direction of the grain through the board (growth rings); and if they dry out unevenly. Let’s simplify the direction of the grain down to two categories for now: straight grain and curly grain. When you look at the widest part of a board and see lots of swirling and oval patterns, the grain is considered curly and will be prone to move. On the other hand, if you see lots of parallel lines running from end to end, the grain is considered straight and is less prone to move. Obviously, the curly grain is more pleasant on the eye; however, it has its limitations. Another way of checking is to look at the end of the board to determine how it was milled from the log. When you look at the end of the board

work with. Wrap your boards in cling wrap and place them on a flat surface with weights on them, or give them a thin coat of shellac if you’re only working each weekend, to stop movement. SELECTING FEATURE BOARDS Birdseye, fiddle back and flame are some of the terms used to describe the grain pattern of timber. To be honest, you don’t need to memorise these terms in order to pick a good looking piece of wood. If it looks good to you in the store, then you will like the way it looks when finished. The woods in the picture le are West Australia Red Gum from my recent trip to Margaret River (quarter sawn fiddle back pattern) and East Coast Red Gum (back sawn birds eye pattern) from Port Macquarie, NSW. I plan to make a small lidded box titled East meets West in a 59

There are so many finishes to select from, and I really don’t have a favourite apart from rub on oil over coats of shellac. So apart from some of the glue tips above, my tips are: sand your boards well, brush or vacuum all the dust off with your better half’s Dyson (I won’t tell anyone), and practice by applying the finish to a piece of scrap. Depending on the look you’re a er, you can skip these tips and throw a few planks on house bricks to hold the planks off the ground to make a rustic entertainment unit. Or, just use plywood, as the grain doesn’t make a difference. In my next article I will talk tools and how to sharpen your chisels so you can shave with them! But why would you, when your barber can carve out a tremendous beard while you’re sitting in the chair planning your next weekend woodworking project!

Photographer Ben Molloy

the 41st annual

y a d e c ra

I W

S I

T N

O T

R O

I C N

Photographer Ben Molloy

Winton Motor Raceway, near Benalla, Victoria, Austr alia

Photographer Ben Molloy

Ea c h y ea r, mo re t ha n 10 ,0 0 0 mot or en t hus i a s t s t rek t o t he Wi n t on Mo t o r Ra ceway f or t wo da y s of t hun derous rev v i n g o f engines, a dren a li n pumpi n g a c t i on a n d g lo ri o us v e hicles. C on duct ed b y t he A ust i n 7 Club I n c . wi t h the

Photographer Colin Rosewarne

a s si st a n ce o f t he HMRA V.

istoric Winton is Australia’s most popular all-historic motor race meeting, held this year on 27 and 28 May. It features over 400 historic racing cars and motorbikes from the 1920s to the 1980s, plus a huge heritage display of more than 2,000, veteran, vintage and classic vehicles.

feast of motoring.

So, it’s Mustang vs Mini, formidable Bugattis, roaring Formula Fords, past grand prix winners, and historic notables competing in a sensorial

Spectators also have access to the competition paddock containing the pits and race car garages for a small fee.

The spectacle of the weekend is made even greater due to car and motorbike aﬁcionados driving or riding their vehicles to the event for display and parade laps.

Petrol heads who love retro, grand restorations and rusty relics of the past are bound to revel in this event.

The Winton Motor Raceway is not too far from the NSW border, so it is suitably placed to attract visitors from regional NSW, ACT and Vintage tractors, steam engines, vintage even South Australia. The track is two and a caravans, vintage speed boats, model planes, half hours' drive Now in its 41st year, Historic from Melbourne, Winton is an iconic sporting with thousands E A C H E V E N T I S C AT E G O R I S E D I N T O E R A S , W I T H E L I G I B L E C A R S event in rural Victoria, with making the AND BIKES BEING GENUINE COMPETITION VEHICLES, OR THOSE its combination of cars and jjourney. Visitors T H AT W O U L D H AV E F I T T E D T H E C R I T E R I A I N T H E I R D AY. motorcycles on the one with a penchant program making it unique in for camping can Australia. vintage speedway cars will be just some of the even stay trackside. Before the two big days Drivers come from all states in Australia to items in the 2017 Heritage Display. of racing, the fun starts with the Benalla & race their pride and joy vehicles. People from District Classic Car and Motorbike Tour on Thirty automotive anniversaries will be all walks of life and ages compete, with it not Friday 26 May. celebrated at Historic Winton 2017, including being unusual to see drivers in their senior 90 years of the Volvo, Ford Model A and Austin Raceway entry fees: Sat $30, Sun $35, years compete aggressively in some very rare 16 and 80 years of the Lancia Aprilia, Vauxhall weekend $60, children 16 and under n/c, and impressive cars. 10-4, Austin 18 and the Rob Roy Hill Climb. competition paddock $5. Each event is categorised into eras, with The Nissan Skyline celebrates 60 years, and eligible cars and bikes being genuine Camping at the track: $25/head per night. the Chrysler VE Valiant, Ford Falcon GT and competition vehicles, or those that would Camping enquiries: Winton Motor Raceway Holden Torana celebrate 50 years. have ﬁtted the criteria in their day. (03) 5760 7100.

www.facebook.com/Historic-Winton www.twitter.com/HistoricWinton www.historicwinton.org

Photographer: Shane Fletcher

Arts

NathanBARTLETT CRAFTSMAN

y stepfather (Phil) started the business of making handmade fins 20 years previously. He was sought a er for the quality and workmanship - built up a very reputable business, especially respected by longboarders, who can appreciate and feel the performance of a high quality fiberglass fin compared to the norm of the time, which was plastic pop outs and cheap imitations. In a bum deal, he sold a few designs and naming rights to a multinational, who promised a lot, but le him jaded with the industry. Five years ago I was living in Bali and saw a refreshing movement towards individual surfing and high quality surf goods. This was a change from the serious competitve surfers

of the '90s early 2000s and also a revolt of the boards and fins being made from cheap overseas factories without care or style. I contacted a close friend of mine (Craig) who had grown up with me watching Phil start the business sanding fins in our garage at home, and we chatted about starting to make surfboard fins. We had a factory available, a guy who is one of only a handful in the world able to make great, handmade surfboard fins, Craig had business nous, and I had a head full of ideas and a yearning to say goodbye to the maritime industry for more surf time. We created a name, hired Phil as our leading cra sman, inherited his fatory full of history, fin templates and dust (lots of dust) and got to work. 62

Although our fins are pretty, we ain't a retro company. We are driven by quality, cra manship, and the belief that fibreglass fins made well out-perform anything else available. We are referencing the best shapers in the world through thousands of fin templates that have been hanging on the walls for 20+ years. More than just sponsoring guys to flap about on a wave, we love dealing with shapers and surfers who give feedback on the fins and work with us to create better shit. We custom make fins from start to finish for anyone that asks. We supply shapers, stores and custom from our website. www.alkalifins.com

Photographer: Shane Fletcher

an Nath

BART

LETT

Photographer: Shane Fletcher

ALKALI CREATE ORIGINAL, PREMIUM QUALITY HANDMADE FINS FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE SURFING. HAND FOILED FROM FIBREGLASS PANELS, OUR FOCUS IS TO BRING NEW LIFE TO FIN TEMPLATES THAT HAVE STOOD THE TEST OF TIME. WE MAKE CHOOSING YOUR PERFECT FIN SIMPLE, WITH OPTIONS FOR ALL BOARD TYPES, SETUPS & STYLES. BEAUTIFUL & UNIQUE COLOURS, AVAILABLE IN BOX FIN, PLUG & GLASS ON, AS WELL AS A RANGE OF CUSTOM & LIMITED EDITION TEMPLATES. BY COMBINING THE BEST FROM MODERN DESIGNS, PREMIUM MATERIALS & PROVEN TECHNIQUES, ALKALI FINS ARE UNIQUE & UNRIVALLED.

Photographer: Braden Cain

Photographer: Shane Fletcher 63

Photographer: Shane Fletcher

6644

BRING BACK THE

M u l l e t. THE UNMISTAKABLE OR SHOULD I SAY THE UNFORGIVABLE MULLET IS STILL AROUND, I AM AFRAID TO SAY! THIS CUT WAS THE FAVOURITE OF OUR LOVABLE BOGAN, WHOM YOU STILL SEE SPORTING IT AROUND IN THE FAR WESTERN SUBURBS OF OUR CITIES AND IN OUTBACK AREAS OF AUSTRALIA. THE TRADITIONAL MULLET WAS A REGULAR CUT FROM THE FRONT WITH A STRAIGHT FRINGE, BUT FROM THE BACK IT WAS A MANE OF LONG, UNRULY HAIR.

illy Ray Cyrus was one of the best mullet wearers in his time, and we also had our Aussie iconic actor Mel Gibson bring it back into fashion with his epic movie, Braveheart.

The biggest collection of mullets I've seen was at an ACDC concert in Melbourne, where I felt naked with my groomed appearance. Nothing quite sets oﬀ a ﬂanno like a good mullet! The mullet was famous with our rock stars of the eighties, where if you had the hair, you would wear one. The mullet even become popular with the ladies like Suzi Quatro, who took it to another level of fashion ... Even our lovable Mrs Brady from The Brady Bunch had a wellgroomed, fashionable mullet. Sports people also took to the mullet - guys like AFL players Warrick Capper and Stephen

We believe from good sources that the mullet may be coming back. We have studied websites like “The Plague of the Mullet” and social media sites like “Aussie Mullet Hunters” to conﬁrm our prediction. Even THE MULLET WAS ONE OF THE DEMISES the reliable website Wikipedia has a full OF THE BARBER OF THE EIGHTIES, page dedicated to the WHERE MOST MULLET WEARERS TOOK mullet. UP A LONG AND LOVING RELATIONSHIP

Kernahan. Andrea Agassi was probably the most prolithic mullet debonair, as he bounced around the centre court, ﬂicking his mullet at the crowd.

The mullet was one of the demises of the barber of the eighties, where most mullet wearers took up Our Editor, Jimbo, WITH THE HAIRDRESSER. a long and loving has agreed to use his relationship with shop to photo shoot the hairdresser. She and assist styling knew the art of long hair and how to upkeep the the man with the mullet. Please sit back and mane of glory at its peak. The barber was not make your own opinion of whether this fashion going to play around with this new cut, as the stays or should be buried with fads like ﬂares, barber was the place of the short haircut and platform shoes for men and Brut a ershave. your normal barber had one choice only - and Written by Sean Edwards. that was the clipper blade size. 65

TALE

THIEVES AND BEGGARS

E va n T r e a c y My name is Evan. I have been a barber for almost four years and owned my own shop for the better part of two. Cohen (my business partner) and I came up with the idea to open a barbershop in our town as not only a thing we had both dreamed of doing, but out of necessity. We come from a rural town in Central Queensland, where the guys still get around in cowboy hats, and using product through school wasn't considered cool. However, over time our town has become a city and is slowly embracing city culture. We opened in the CBD district a er a barbershop

we worked at failed to pick up steam, and the owner shut the doors. However, we never gave up hope, and in November 2015 we opened Thieves & Beggars, a er I got the name from watching Pirates of the Caribbean, and it stuck. Sixteen months on, and there are now two other modern barbershops open in town, and we are all thriving. Basically, my story is just to say never give up hope, always try, and when you get knocked down, the only thing you can do is get back up. I love barbering; it means everything to me, and it's the best career I've ever stuck in.

SCOUNDRELS BARBER SHOP

Arthur kordas I'd like to introduce myself. I am Arthur Kordas from the Central Coast, and I am the director and owner of Scoundrels Barber Shop, Long Jetty 25 years young and in a better position than I've ever been. I'm happy to share my story of a colourful life with a rebellious attitude, to overcoming mental illness and five years of unemployment, to running my own brand out of a gym (Scoundrels Barber Shop). I have a beautiful fiancée, with my first born currently in the making. My past is not something I advertise or make well known, unless behind the chair with the clients who become my friends. It's definitely not hidden either, and this is why I love my job and what I do. A er realising that binge drinking and socialising was not the right mix for me, I went out on my own to better my life. I found myself at the London Barber Shop in Killarney Vale, speaking to a lady barber who gave me the first step to my career. She broke down barbering as well as she could, and I was sent on my way with the mission to finish a Cert 3 in hairdressing. It was only a week a er that it begun I scored myself a job in a hair salon, which went terribly. Being tatted up and from the coast is not an easy personality to have for a salon environment. Only lasting three months, I was back in the same position. A er 18 months passed, I found for myself the men's barber skills course at Granville TAFE last October. I told family, spoke with other barbers and told them there was another way, and was doubted the whole time which never stopped me from picking up the phone and giving the TAFE a

SHOP10/ 77 EAST ST, ROCKHAMPTON, QUEENSLAND 0429 221 113

call. It was done; you could be a barber without doing colours and blow dries! I could see my way! I was employed two days into TAFE and cutting away a er two weeks, I couldn't believe my achievement. A er three months I landed in a head barbers position in an area I grew up in, built a large following and was handling the clippers better and better every day. I was thinking to myself that things couldn't be better, 'til I went home one day a er work and my partner said to me, "I want a baby, and I want it now". It was that moment I knew I had to step up my game. That week one of my loyal clients came in, who happens to be the director of The Rig Gym, Long Jetty. We were talking about business, and he was saying how he had a room at the front of his gym which was empty, right on the main road, with no concrete ideas on improvement. First thing that came to my mind was, "Barber shop?" And it was done ... A few more people to dodge, and I was there. The 18th June 2016 was the grand opening of Scoundrels. A er months of barbering, ﬁnally no one could tell me what to do. At the end of August my following had grown larger then ever. I ﬁnd out the sex of my baby this week - all I need is a little love from the Cutthroat Journal, with a cool story to extend my own - and life will be 100. Thanks guys! Got some pics up on my like page and a video, having a video shoot next week if you're interested @ scoundrelsbarbershop. Better hit the hay; got work in the morning.

391B THE ENTRANCE ROAD, LONG JETTY, NSW WWW.SCOUNDRELSBARBERSHOP.COM.AU

DEBRA JENKINS When it comes to the barbering industry, I feel I've done a full circle. I started barbering in the early '80s, where I was fortunate enough to be trained by a wonderful Italian gentleman, by the name of Frank Todaro. We basically did classic cuts on young and old using nothing much more than a pair of scissors, a super taper, and a cutthroat - a very small set of tools, compared to the clipper fettish a lot of barbers have today. As the years went by, the industry changed, not necessarily for the better, as we saw more and more unisex cutting bars poppingup. Coming from a hairdressing background originally, I too found myself working in unisex cutting bars. When I arrived from the UK in the year 2000, there were very few barbershops in rural New Zealand. We settled in small town ﬁrst, and I set out one day to hit the barbershops in town to look for work, only to ﬁnd there weren't any. Cutting unisex was never my passion, so I was pretty disappointed. I had le my own barbershop back in Wales to start a new life in NZ. But what now! Needless to say, I was very excited when the barber industry took shape here. Things have turned a full circle, and I now own and operate the only all-male barbershop in the pretty town of Cambridge in the Waikato. We have four chairs, three full-time operators and an apprentice chair. It's just like the old days, but with a few extra shiny tools and some great hair

M r wa lt e r

GENTLEMAN A note from A Gentleman Barber: Gentleman Barbers are dying. Truly - a dying breed. Especially in Queensland. It only takes a chat with your mates up north here (other barbershop owners) to know that good quality barbers are hard to ﬁnd. In fact - if you want to get technical, we’re in such short supply that we are critically listed on a state-wide shortage. While it may seem like a great game plan to keep our clients or patrons coming to us, because no one else is "cutting it" in this business quite as well as you do - it is not leaving the future of this industry looking too bright. And I know myself - I want to see that Barber Pole burning bright with the status quo of hard core professionals circling around it for a long time to come. We are only just coming into our own here in QLD, and we need to ensure this focus on quality barbers improves. If you’re as passionate about the industry as you want your clients to believe you are - then you need to do something about it. Yep - you. It is all our responsibility to ensure we teach more barbers how to be great, not just good - to train the next generation of barbers to be better than we are - even if it is risky. Sure they move on, sure you put time into them, and money, and yeah, they could end up working for the competition - but does that matter if you're good at what you do? If we do not start taking the time and dedicate ourselves to industry

products to work with. I also feel it's great to see Kiwi men taking pride in their appearance. I think growing up here in New Zealand with a very macho culture is quite difficult for some young men. I feel with the upsurge in our industry and current classic trends, image and looking a er yourself is becoming acceptable, and it may help to break down some of those macho boundaries these young men don't fit into. I also see one of my important roles now is to encourage the next generation of cra smen and women in our industry. I myself am in the process of gaining my level 4 barbering qualification. I'm doing this to help the younger generation. We have recently employed a graduate barber from the local academy, which has worked really well. We also regularly take young trainees from both school and barber academies for work experience. I know some barbershops feel they are too busy to stop and help apprentices, or they cannot afford to have a spare chair for an apprentice to train. I am pleased this is something we can offer at Mr Walter. I enjoy seeing young people excited to work in the industry. I am privileged to have the opportunity to work with young people, hopefully ensuring the next generation of barbers will work to a high standard, as they enjoy a long and happy career like myself. Thirty-five years, and still loving the barber life.

176 SHAKESPEARE STREET, CAMBRIDGE NZ 3432 +64 7 823 2696

JONES recruitment and passing on our skills, our dedication to this industry, our “passion” for barbering, is just a ﬁnancial farce. We’re in it for the money. (See how I jest!) Igniting the passion for this industry in NQ, starts with you. When you can attend the comps and trade fairs and if there aren't any create one. If there is no training to send your apprentice to - then do your own. If you think you're great at what you do, then try to get even better; this industry is worth it. If our grandfathers thought it was worth the time to teach the next generation barbering, why don’t we? Coming up this year in North Queensland, open across the state, we have an inaugural barbering competition being held at the NQ Expo for fashion - hair - beauty (gentlemen - we must start somewhere). This is a chance for barbers to show their fades, clippers and traditional cutting skills oﬀ to the world. There will be prizes and notoriety to be won - but most of all, it will bring the focus back to barbering. Back to encouraging another generation to become passionate about their trade. Maybe encourage some more competitions up here and better training for barbers. We also have the Gentleman Jones Queensland Beard and Moustache championships in November. If you're up north and you’re interested in the chance to put your money where your mouth is - email gentlemanjones@ outlook.com for more details.

2/275 CHARTERS TOWERS ROAD, TOWNSVILLE, QLD 4812 WWW.GENTLEMANJONES.COM.AU

T H E

2 0 1 7

R E S U L T S

H a i r d r e s s e r s J o u r na l Inte r n a t i o n a l ho st ed i t s B ri t i s h Ha i rdres si n g A wa rds, w i t h 1 ,7 0 0 o f th e c o untr y ' s fi n es t ha i rst y li st s g a t heri n g a t Lo n don 's g la moro us G r o s ve no r H o us e , a J W M arri ot t Ho t el, f o r t he i n dus t ry ev en t of t he y ea r.

Now in their fourth decade, the awards, which are sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, celebrate the very best in British hairdressing talent - an industry which contributes £7bn to the national economy and one which employs more than 300,000 people. With nine regional and six specialist categories - as well as the ultimate award, British Hairdresser of the Year - the awards have launched the careers of a host of household

names, from John Frieda, Nicky Clarke and Charles Worthington, to Anthony Mascolo, Lisa Shepherd and Beverley C, as well as TV favourites Jamie Stevens and Andrew Barton. As well as creating household names, the awards also provide a platform for the independent salons that make up the British high street - a win can skyrocket a local business. This year’s ceremony was hosted by David

Walliams, alongside Hairdressers Journal International’s executive director, Jayne LewisOrr. Jayne says: “A British Hairdressing Award is the ultimate accolade in hairdressing, and we couldn’t be more proud to present them to our winners today. The award demonstrates not only unabashed creativity and supreme technical skill, but also marks you out as one of the greatest hairdressers in the country.”

{ NORTHERN IRELAND HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

{ MIDLANDS HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

Julian Dalrymple

Nick Malenko and Sophie Beattie

The Sitting Room, Ballymena

Royston Blythe, Wolverhampton

{ NORTH WESTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

{ SCOTTISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

Marcello Moccia

Suzie McGill and Dylan Brittain

Room 97 Creative Hairdressing, Wakeﬁeld

Rainbow Room International, Uddingston

T H E

2 0 1 7

R E S U L T S

{ NORTH EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

{ SOUTHERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

Joseph Ferraro

Anne Veck

Joseph Ferraro, Harrogate

Anne Veck Salons, Oxford

{ WA L E S & S O U T H W E S T H A I R D R E S S E R O F T H E Y E A R }

{ EASTERN HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

Steven Smart

Joseph I'Anson and Lisa Graham

Smartest 73, Weston-Super-Mare

Mark Leeson, MansямБelf

{ LONDON HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

{ AVA N T G A R D E H A I R D R E S S E R O F T H E Y E A R }

Luke Benson, D&J Ambrose

Indira Schauwecker

Pinner, Middlesex

TONI & GUY, Covent Garden

T H E

2 0 1 7

R E S U L T S

{ NEWCOMER OF THE YEAR}

{ MEN’S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

William Lamb

Terri Kay and Andrea Giles

Daniel Granger Hairdressing, Northampton

Mark Leeson, Mansﬁeld

{ AFRO HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

{ ARTISTIC TEAM OF THE YEAR}

Robert Eaton and Karla Ancliff-Smith

Angelo Vallillo Academy

Russell Eaton, Leeds

Nottingham

{ S C H WA R Z K O P F P R O F E S S I O N A L B R I T I S H C O L O U R T E C H N I C I A N O F T H E Y E A R }

{ BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR}

Robert Eaton

Angelo Seminara

Russell Eaton, Leeds

Photographer Joseph Lam

MADURO

BARBERSHOP ALLAN NONNENMACHER

Southeast of central Bangkok, at a vintagestyle train market, you'll find a tiny two-seat barbershop owned and run by a former Sydneysider and his Thai partner .

he’s the boss”, Allan told me, referring to his partner, Suwimol. "She plays a big role behind the scenes; I just do the cuts.” Maduro Barbershop by Allan Nonnenmacher is a '50s themed store, which provides its customers premium haircuts from hands which have been cutting hair for more than 15 years. In his shipping containerp he oﬀers beard trims,, skin fades,, size spot

his training with a gentleman named Steven Monk, who owns T53 Men’s Hair Salon on the Central Coast of New South Wales. Post apprenticeship he spent a few years working with numerous skilled barbers across Sydney. A er meeting his partner, he decided to pack his things and brought his 12 years' experience (at the time) to Bangkok. Initially, he set up in U o Suk, u , a suburb u u co ecte to viaa tthee ccity’s ty Udom connected

B A R B E R I N G I N T H A I L A N D AT T H E M O M E N T I S S U P E R P O P U L A R . BECAUSE OF THIS, THOSE WITHOUT A SOLID GRASP ON THEIR SKILLS O R A S T R O N G FO U N D AT I O N T E N D T O C LO S E A F E W M O N T H S A F T E R OPENING.

crew cuts and more, all topped oﬀ with his signature hot-towel and warm lather neck shave for a simple 300 THB ($11.20 AUD). He’s also recently developed his own bay rum and low-sheen pomade. Before setting up shop in Bangkok, Allan spent ﬁve years working at Hawleywoods, Newtown, where he learnt a few techniques unique to Donnie Hawley and crew. However, he began

main skytrain line, but a er a year decided to move east to the train Srinakarin train market (talad rot fai) a market selling second-hand clothes, vintage motorbikes, cafe racer helmets and old-fashioned furniture - this better suited his vibe. When it’s time to cut his own hair, Allan prefers to head down a quiet street and visit one of the older barbers in their 50s and 60s.

“I notice a big diﬀerence in the way they use their tools and equipment” - compared to the younger generation, who tend to only undergo a three-month training program before picking up scissors. Currently, the industry is rather saturated. Because of this, Allan also oﬀers private training to up-and-coming young Thai barbers at his shop. Barbering in Thailand at the moment is super popular. Because of this, those without a solid grasp on their skills or a strong foundation tend to close a few months a er opening. Allan will be back in Australia for a month to do a little work with Hawleywoods and one of Sydney’s newest spots, Cutthroat Barbershop, Coogee. Written by Joseph Lam.

JEEP WRANGLER JK UNLIMITED

AUDI A5 S LINE ROJOPELLI BARBERS

1951 4 DOOR CHEVY

MAKE UP: K YLIE O’TOOLE

10 - 12 JUNE 2017

HAIR: FR ANK APOSTOLOPOULOS

PHOTOGR APHER: ANDREW O’TOOLE

ICC SYDNEY, DARLING HARBOUR

R E T U R N I N G

DARLING I N

T O

HARBOUR

2 0 1 7

T I C K E TS O N S A L E N O W AT W W W. H A I R E X P OA U ST R A L I A . C O M

{ L A U N C H PA R T Y }

ENRIGHTS ORIGINAL GIN

THE CTJ TEAM JOINED THE INTIMATE PARTY THAT GATHERED FOR THE UNVEILING OF THE FIRST OF ITS KIND, ENRIGHT’S ORIGINAL GIN PRODUCTS BY RENOWNED MIXOLOGIST AND GIN ENTHUSIAST MIKEY ENRIGHT. ALREADY THE MASTER BEHIND THE AWARD WINNING VENUE, THE BARBER SHOP, MIKEY IS NOW RESPONSIBLE FOR LAUNCHING 6 X GIN SCENTED GROOMING PRODUCTS FOR THE MODERN MAN.

he impressive midweek launch was held at the Barber Shop in York St, where guest were treated to all things gin, including the gin-infused canapés by Food Rascal and decadent cheese and charcuterie table by Marco Faraone. Our favourite was sipping the Bombay Sapphire cocktails to tunes by DJ Dan Rowntree. As a token of appreciation and to extend our experience at home, all guests received a take home gi bag of either Enright’s Original Gin Hair Paste or the Oil Burner Liquid and a little bottle of Bombay Sapphire. The fashionable gentlemen in attendance included actors Kyle Pryor and Steven Mahy, television presenters Danny Clayton and Andrew Maciver, celebrity stylist & author Jeﬀ Lack, models Brandy Martinagro and Sam Wines, fashion stylist Joshua Heath and suiting icon Steve Barkla . Celebrated interior stylists Sibella Court and Caroline Choker brought a feminine touch to the celebrations alongside singer Alana Q. Mikey Enright is a multi award-winning bar professional with many accolades under his belt including Time Out Legend Award in 2014, 7th Most Inﬂuential Bar Professional in 2015 and most recently his bar won ‘Gin Bar of the Year’ 2016. Combining his love for gin and men’s style, Enright wanted to use this knowledge and create something with the botanicals other than another than the much-loved alcoholic drink. “My Obsession on the Juniper Spirit ‘Gin' during 76

my career has raised to a whole new level. I wanted to create a gin experience in the Barber Shop as well as the bar, so a er years of research and an idea becoming a reality, I’m proud to introduce Enright’s Original Gin scented grooming product range.” Enright’s Original Gin grooming products are made in Australia with the finest natural ingredients and non-petroleum. They contains 16 botanicals of benefits including Juniper, Bergamot, Ginger, Cardamon, Coriander Seed, Grains of Paradise, Lavender, Rosemary, Rose, Orris Root, Violet, Cyprus, Liquorice Root, Sweet Orange and lemon. They have been made in tradition of the best Gins of yesteryear. Enright’s knowledge and personal experience being among the best barbers in the industry, he knows what works for men and understands the desire have a grooming routine at home that creates a similar experience to that found at The Barber Shop. “It's all about boutique brands for men who want to try something new and different to the market. These gin based men's grooming products have been created using botanicals and are the most stylish and unique on the market.” The Enright’s Original Gin product range now available at The Barbershop York St, The Barbershop Barangaroo or online thisisthebarbershop.com & enrightsgincompany.com

5 WAYS TO MAKE YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA SIZZLE

NO DOUBT YOU’RE ALL FAMILIAR WITH THE “YOU NEVER LAMB ALONE” CAMPAIGN RELEASED ANNUALLY IN THE LEAD UP TO AUSTRALIA DAY. THE VIDEOS, COMMISSIONED BY MEAT & LIVESTOCK AUSTRALIA MLA , HAVE EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS FROM TONGUE IN CHEEK TIRADES DELIVERED BY SAM KEKOVICH TO A MORE SUBDUED YET CLEVER COMBO OF GAGS AND CELEBRITY CAMEOS IN MORE RECENT TIMES.

n addition to the millions of views it has clocked up online, it has also received a lot of heat in the press debating its sensitivity, or lack thereof, to issues of diversity and cultural importance. (As a side note, they also attracted a huge amount of criticism for mocking vegans in 2016.) Whether you love or loathe these ads, one thing we can all agree on is its enormous success in garnering attention and creating buzz online. Which begs the question - what makes us connect with some content on social media and not others? As business owners and operators, the major challenge posed to you is cutting through and making an impact in the highly competitive space that is Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Snapchat. So, what exactly is the secret sauce to this lamb campaign? Let’s take a look at what MLA do well, and how you can adapt these elements to ﬁt your own brand. Be Relatable MLA website says: “The campaign content taps into what makes Australia great and how our diversity and everything we each bring to the nation, regardless of who we are or when we came here, contributes to this.” We can learn something from this core message, that being “a united celebration of Australia”; much of the campaign’s success lies in its wide appeal. Take a moment to think about what unites your customers ...? Cra ing posts around men's culture, great products and your local community is a terriﬁc starting point. Be

authentic, and try to steer away from posts that read more like a sales pitch. If people can identify with your posts, you’re creating a unique bond with them, and this in turn will help drive more likes, shares and comments. Jumping on the bandwagon of an established campaign can also do wonders for your community approach. Large campaigns oﬀer opportunities to broaden your audience by incorporating relevant campaign hashtags and handles into your social media marketing, promoting your own campaign. For example, leveraging the in-market activity of Movember to promote stylised moustache cuts. Keep It Short & Sweet This year’s "You Never Lamb Alone" video was posted with a short intro, just nineteen words. That’s a mere two and a bit lines in your Facebook newsfeed. Next time you post on social media, take a leaf out of their book and keep your text to a minimum. Studies indicate that brevity is key, not just because your audience’s eyes will glaze over at the sight of a big block of text, but also given Facebook’s algorithms tend to favour posts with fewer characters. Stay Relevant For many, watching MLA’s ads have become somewhat of a tradition in the lead up to Australia Day. The takeaway here is to keep abreast of what is topical and on-trend, then ﬁnd a way to tie your brand to the conversation. Make posts relevant to your followers and start a dialogue about what’s going on in their lives. 77

Make People Smile Laughter makes the world go ‘round and is a driving force behind the online currency of likes, shares and comments. Light-hearted content serves your audience as a break from their daily grind, and the power of positivity should not be underestimated. Memes that are inspirational or comical are absolute dynamite for social shares, helping you expand your reach, boost your brand awareness, connect with new audiences and ultimately drive more foot traffic through your doors. Dazzle & Delight Sure, you may not have the big bucks to replicate the sort of production value that MLA have become known for (not to mention the team of creatives and marketing gurus that make it happen!) but there are a few things you can do to achieve a polished and professional social media presence. Skilful photo styling and artful composition will help you create desire; thoughtful framing and careful consideration to lighting to highlight your décor and ambience; use editing apps such as Snapseed or VSCO to take your photos from mediocre to magnificent. These simple guidelines are important not only to help you boost engagement levels on social media, but also in shaping your customers' perception of the experience your business provides- both of which will have a direct effect on new, repeat and referral business. Written by Elise McNeil.

subscRiption

4 issues DELIVERED

Don't hide your COPY BEHIND THE COUNTER SUBSCRIBE NOW www.thecutthroatjournal.com

Or fill out the form below and send it into POST: PO BOX 5728, PORT MACQUARIE NSW 2444 OR FAX: 02 6583 7169

Your Information NAME BARBER SHOP ADDRESS CITY STATE

POSTCODE

PHONE EMAIL

Payment details PLEASE DEBIT THE ABOVE AMOUNT FROM MY MASTERCARD

VISA

AMEX

CARD NUMBER CARD EXPIRY DATE CCV# CARDHOLDERS NAME CARDHOLDERS SIGNATURE PLEASE TICK THE BOX IF YOU DO NOT WANT TO RECEIVE OUR E NEWSLETTERS

1300 364 085 chisholm.edu.au

7799