VOL. III, THE BAPTISM by The Dapifer

VOL. III

THE BAPTISM

T H E

DAPIFER

#JOIN US

@THEDAPIFER

ANVEGLOSA www.anveglosa.com

VOL. III

Tiger’s scream can not be heard anymore. There were eight tiger subspecies at one time. Three became extinct during the 20th century. Tigers are hunted as trophies, and as body parts that are used in traditional Chinese medicine. Over the last 100 years, hunting and forest destruction have reduced tiger population from millions to perhaps fewer than 2,500 today. Tiger’s scream can not be heard anymore...

“Tiger’s Scream” Oil on denim part of the series from the “Art of Denim” exhibition

THE

DAPIFER CONTRIBUTORS EDITOR IN CHIEF

LAKENYA KELLY CREATIVE DIRECTOR

FRANCIS VAZQUEZ ASSOC. PHOTO DIRECTOR

JON GORDON FASHION/MARKET EDITOR

VANESSA BELLAN ASSOC. PHOTOGRAPHER

YACHIN PARHAM

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS HADRIEL GONZALES (COVER STORY) RICARDO NELSON SETH LONDON ERIC WHITE YACHIN PARHAM JON GORDON FRANCIS VAZQUEZ

CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS LEONID GUREVICH (COVER STORY) BRENDON ALEXANDER SEQUINE S. LEE YOSHIHIRO HIDAKA MORGAN CRUZ DANN RYAN WEIR

FEATURED INTERVIEWS LEONID GUREVICH GARRETT LEIGHT CAROL FUNG

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Crown Fiori Couture Dress (top shown) Venexiana Skirt Alex Ulichny Necklace (small) Shop 3NY Necklace (large) Purevile Large Bangles, Cross Pendant in Model’s hand Alexis Bittar Bracelets, Rings GBGH Jewelry Bracelets, Rings Chris Habana Rings Laruicci

THE DAPIFER presents

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GLOSSARY FASHION I Mourners Lost to the Ages A play on Words Lotus

p14 p22 p28 p32

FEATURES I Radar: Houghton p40 Model Access: Ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Choice p42 INTERVIEW Optical Allusions: Garrett Leight p50 The Wondrous World of Leonid Gurevich p54 Carol Fung Interview p62

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FASHION II Rogue p64 Sacramentum p72 Shades of Cool p82 Golden Girl p86 Neo Noir p92 FEATURES II Radar: Rosario p100 Runway p102

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www.barquenewyork.com

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

EDITOR’S LETTER Every now and again, the creative world is introduced to itself. Somewhere amidst the monotony of simply ‘creating’ lies an even more revealing form of art. I personally always search for these mediums- they are mostly found in people. It’s an unavoidable sensory connection guided by the pulse of kinetic energy and lucid imagination. This is where the chapter always begins for The Dapifer. Hidden in the interconnected grand scheme of things we attempt to pull apart our deepest thoughts, ideas, and shared fantasies about the world we live in and the people that occupy it. Guided by the all knowing commentary of Fashion we travel into the concept of Baptism. Encompassed in all of its Religious connotation and emotional fervor is a deeply universal experience. Not the act of Religion of course, but the act of transforming ourselves. As Leonid Gurevich so poignantly states in his featured interview, it is not always our choice, and in that two-fold dialogue, we find enlightenment. Most of our lives are guided by expectations. We’re asked what we want to be when we grow up before we realize what growing up really means. We’re taught to color in the lines and search for answers in the book. Our infinite world of uncertain possibilities becomes a linear progression of tasks and normalities. Perhaps this is why the world, and each of us in it, are involuntarily drawn to the idea of ‘the artist’. I recall a great novel I read recently which expresses the notion, ‘everything we do in life is art.’ It’s perhaps one of the most meaningful quotes I’ve read. It’s never easy to discuss these types of politics. Even in an increasingly tense society, the conversation falls flat. The subjectivity of object becomes the objectivity of reason and we find ourselves walking the tight-rope. Who amongst us can maintain the balance? The inevitable is a constant. Completely submerged in the river of self-realization, instinct abandons and we realize that we’re not drowning and never were. Most create their best work in this moment. In a place where words flow freely and confident strokes fill empty white spaces upon the canvases of perception. Welcome to The Baptism.

Lakenya Kelly Editor-In-Chief

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LEATHER JACKET VINTAGE YSL

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The Mourners. photography by

Jon Gordon fashion direction by

Lakenya Kelly art direction by

Francis Vazquez makeup by

Rie Hirabayashi hair by

Ty Shearn models

Ira S / Muse, Maria K / Muse Marion S / Major

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ON MARION DRESS LEONID GUREVICH

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ON IRA BRA & PANTS CALVIN KLEIN ON MARIA LEATHER BUSTIER TOP MATHIEU MIRANO PANTS J. BRAND

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ON MARIA BRA CALVIN KLEIN

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ON IRA LEATHER “JENNA” JACKET DAWN LEVY BRA CALVIN KLEIN

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ON MARION LEATHER “TARA” VEST DAWN LEVY

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ON MARIA FRINGE KNIT TOP DOISELLES

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Dress Jose Duran, Crown Mordekai, Leather Pleated Neck Piece Perez Sanz

Lost to the Ages. creative direction by

Brendon Alexander photography by

Eric White beauty by

Eric assistance by

Anthony Shands

Metal Bustier Laurel Dewitt, Latex Skirt Linie, Arm Cuffs Perez Sanz

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Dress Harare Crown Mordekai Veil Carolina Sarria Gloves Carolina Amato

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Fedora Dior Homme Jumpsuit Sandro Roman NYC Button Front Shirt Christopher Kane

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Leather Buckle Bustier Zana Bayne Leather Gloves Sermenata Neck Cuff Larucci Crown Mordekai Skirt Marc

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photographer Seth London fashion editor Sequine S. Lee model Jacoby / Red

All Accessories Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own, T-Shirt Top Man, Blazer Costume National

A Play on Words.

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T-shirt Top Man Fedora & Trousers Craven

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Leather Snap-back American Apparel Jumpsuit Sandro Roman NYC

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Button Front Shirt Christopher Kane Jumpsuit Sandro Roman NYC Fedora Dior Homme

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Lotus.

photography by

Francis Vazquez fashion styling by

Yoshihiro Hidaka make-up by

Caitlin Wooters hair styling by

Kat Zemtsova

Dress Katrin Schnabl, Brief American Apparel VOL. III

Dress Katrin Schnabl

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Dress Katrin Schnabl

Dress Saint Laurent

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Dress Lanvin Ring Stylist Own

Cape NY Vintage Shirt Kiki de Montparnasse Skirt Costume National

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Dress CUT25 by Yigal

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RADAR: HOUGHTON words by Lakenya Kelly

shoes by Houghton x Birkenstock

photos by Firstview

makeup by Maud Laceppe for MAC

styling by Charles Verenne

hair by Adam Markarian for Oribe

casting by MTC Casting

IT’S DIFFICULT NOT TO EXPERIENCE SOME FORM OF EUPHORIA WHEN GAZING UPON THE COLLECTIONS OF RISING BRAND, HOUGHTON. LED BY ITS DISTINCTIVE DESIGNER, AND EVEN MORE DISTINCT SENSE OF STRUCTURE, KATHERINE POLK HAS CREATED ONE OF THE MOST APPLAUDED BRANDS OF THE PAST HALF DECADE. ON THE LISTS OF HEAVY-HITTERS INCLUDING WWD, ELLE, AND W MAGAZINE, HOUGHTON IS CONTINUING TO SOLIDIFY ITS PLACE IN THE NEXT OF FASHION. POLK’S IMAGINATIVE USE OF THE SOFT AND CUTTING PROPORTIONS OF FABRIC, COLOR, AND DRAPE IS AS CLASSIC AS IT IS VISIONARY. THE HOUGHTON GIRL IS A SCARLET, A SENSATIONAL AGREEMENT OF FEMININE CUTS AND A CONFIDENT STRUT TOWARD HER DESTINY.

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THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

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THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

Model Access: Ladies’ Choice WE INVITE 5 OF OUR FAVORITE MODELS INTO THE STUDIO AS WE DELVE DEEPER INTO THE ESSENCE OF OFF-DUTY STYLE. GREETED WITH THE USUAL, RELAXED SILHOUETTES OF WANG-ESQUE BASICS, AND PERFECTLY PROPORTIONED STATEMENTS OF THE ‘WORKING MODEL’, WE DECIDE TO SHAKE THINGS UP A BIT. ALONG WITH OUR CREW OF BEAUTY PROFESSIONAL AND FASHION EDITORS, WE GUIDE THE LADIES THROUGH THE PROCESS OF CREATING THEIR VERY OWN SIGNATURE STYLE . THESE ARE THE LOOKS THAT WE CREATED.

“WHAT IS ONE WORD THAT DEFINES YOUR PERSONAL STYLE?”

“ELEGANCE” - VICTORIA K

ONE PIECE THAPELO PARIS, CARDIGAN VINTAGE YSL, RING DANIEL ANTOSH 44

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“COMFORTABLE” - SHIVANI

FULL LOOK MAISON KITSUNÉ, RING DANIEL ANTOSH VOL. III

“REGAL” - MARI

BLOUSE & PANTS MAISON KITSUNÉ RING DIABOLI KILL

“HIPSTER” - MERON

BLOUSE MAISON KITSUNÉ, PANTS JUDITH & CHARLES, JEWELRY DANIEL ANTOSH, BOOTS DR.MARTENS

KNIT BLEND JUMPER BOLIVARES, PANTS MAISO N KITSUNÉ, ALL JEWELRY DANIEL ANTOSH

“GRUNGE” - YULIA

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photography by

Jon Gordon creative direction by

Francis Vazquez fashion direction by

Lakenya Kelly still life prop styling by

Anna Toupitsyna makeup by

Rie Hirabayashi hair by

Kiyo Igarashi models

Mari / Muse Shivani / Muse Victoria K / Muse Yulia / Red Meron / Red

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Optical Allusions: Garrett Leight WE FIND OURSELVES SITTING FACE TO FACE WITH L.A. BASED EYEWEAR DESIGNER, GARRETT LEIGHT, AS HE NARRATES THE ORIGIN OF HIS NAMESAKE AND THE INGENUITY THAT HAS SOLIDIFIED HIS PLACE IN THE INTERNATIONAL EYEWEAR MARKET. LEIGHT, A MODERN DAY VISIONARY OF MUCH MORE THAN OPTICALS, HAS BUILT A BRAND THAT AS JUST AS MUCH ABOUT THE WORLD HE WANTS TO SEE AS IT IS ABOUT WHAT WE SEE IN THE WORLD.

/ So, did you ever imagine that at this moment- you’d be the eponymous designer behind your own optical brand? No. I’m not one to look to far into the future as to what I personally am going to be. I’ve always been more interested in where the world is headed and how things are changing. I’ve definitely never said to myself, “I’m going to be an eyewear designer one day.” / Where were you born? How did this influence the way you see the world? I was born at St. Johns in the city of Orange and then moved to Los Angeles at the age of 2. I guess if answering the question completely literally, the exact origin of my birth has an effect on who I am according to astrology and all that, which I believe in, but don’t follow that closely. If I choose to answer this question figuratively, I would say Los Angeles is everything to me. I am completely in love with this city and my life experiences have made me who I am today, most of those life experiences have taken place here in L.A. / What did you want to be when you were ‘growing up’ ? A professional athlete. I love sports and I always have. I was a serious tennis player growing up but I also loved baseball and basketball. That’s the only thing I can ever remember specifically wanting to be when I grow up. / How did the GLCO vision begin? I opened my store, A. Kinney Court in Venice, Ca. before I had GLCO and basically it just felt like there was something missing in the eyewear market. I was really unhappy with my options. We carried a variety of brands in the beginning, but never more than 4 or 5. Exactly what I was looking for was not out there, so I decided to create it. / Do you remember the first thing you created growing up?

know if I actually remember creating them. I do vividly remember being crazy about lemonade stands, I wanted to have one every weekend. I also wanted to a haunted house for Halloween every year. I loved creating little businesses, that’s for sure. / How did you decide upon the name, Garrett Leight California Optical? A name is everything and I’m not into making things up. Garrett Leight made the most sense because it’s my name and Leight ties well into optical and sunglasses. California is such a huge part of my life and the brand DNA. It’s what I know best, so preaching this brand message comes completely organically. Optical was actually the word I struggled most with. I wondered if it was a bit of a nerdy word and if there was something better out there. It was actually just a placeholder, but what happened was, we created the GLCO logo and it was so perfect that it just had to stay. / What’s your favorite place in the world? Venice Beach, California hands down. I love to travel and I love other places in the world, but my favorite is Venice Beach. Anywhere in Venice will do. There isn’t one specific place, so long as I can feel that Venice Beach energy, I’m good. / What was the first thing you ever designed? When I was about 12 years old my friend and I wanted to start an athletic apparel line. Thinking back to it, it was basically a Lululemon before they existed. We drew out an entire collection. Lots of athletic women’s wear, bright neon colors accenting solid bases like black and white. That is literally the first thing I can ever remember “designing.” / Do you have any hidden talents? Probably my tennis game. I would guess I’m in the 99th percentile.

Probably a bit of a loaded question because my mom saved everything, and I’ve seen things that I’ve created but I don’t VOL. III

/ Where do you find inspiration? From being outside, away from my desk. I often get inspired while traveling. Industry trade shows and talking to my customers and sales reps can be so inspiring. I am fortunate to work with incredible people, and even though there are a ton of opinions, some good and some bad, they all inspire me and help me formulate my thoughts. Essentially that is market research. For design specific inspiration, I either find it by walking or driving around in Los Angeles, and sometimes by scouring the internet for inspiring iconic individuals of the past. / What images/icons do you imagine when you’re designing a new collection or frame? I always refer back to literary figures anywhere from the 1940’s to 1970’s. Arthur Miller, Ginsberg, Fante and many others. Possibly because I love to write, those are the people I find most intriguing. / Do you have a favorite frame? To be honest, not really. I like many for many different reasons. I try not to discriminate. / Describe the Garrett Leight California Optical brand in one sentence. It is what it is. / If you could choose a song or album to describe the GLCO brand what would that be? Sublime – 40 Oz. to Freedom / You’ve had lots of brilliant collaborations so far including with Thierry Lasry via Collette and well as Mark McNairy. If you could collaborate with any designer/brand right now, who would that be? That’s not easy to answer, but I’ll probably have to say RRL is my number 1 choice, but I’ve never seen them do any collaborations. So a more realistic one I’d like to do is James Perse. While we’re at it, I’ll also mention Band Of Outsiders, APC, and Rag & Bone. All amazing brands that I wear and love. / What do you feel passionate about? Happiness and how it pertains to the present and the future. / What do you dream about? My dreams are wild and colorful and all over the place. I just want to stay young and be happy. I never want to stop laughing at myself and enjoying my life. So I guess I dream about personal happiness as much as possible. / What do you see as the future of GLCO? I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, to be the greatest eyewear brand ever created. I mean, if you’re not aiming to be the best, then what’s the point.

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Garrett Leight California Optical is an optical brand based in L.A. and sold across the world. The brand has quickly rose to the forefront of fashion optics and is poised to redefine the way we see optics. For more information about Garrett Leight or the GLCO brand feel free to visit their site or stop by any of there store locations.

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The Wondrous World of Leonid Gurevich.

LEONID GUREVICH STYLES DIANDRA FORREST FOR DARK BEAUTY MAGAZINE. PHOTOGRAPHER JASON SETIAWAN

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

Opposite Page Jacket & Dress Geoffrey Mac Earrings, Gold Necklace, Turquoise Necklace, Red Snake Skin Cuff, Gold Rings, & Alligator Clutch Clara Kasavina Silver Metal Tiered Necklace Ashione Gallery Bracelets Haus of Topper Coral Bracelet & Square Ring Ciege Cagalawan Blue Ring & Necklace Miranda Hope Red Necklace M.Y. Accessories by Yelena Mna Beaded Vest Paradox Designs Shoes Daniel Nieto makeup Nadine Vendryes hair Junya Nakashima

Leonid Gurevich photographed by Miss Aniela at the Greystone Court, 2014

IN THIS LATEST ISSUE, WE INVITE ELUSIVE FASHION EDITOR LEONID GUREVICH INTO OUR PAGES AND CREATIVE COMMENTARY AS WE BRING TO LIFE, YET ANOTHER CHAPTER OF THE DAPIFER. GUREVICH, KNOWN FOR HIS IMPECCABLY GILDED USE OF FANTASY GROUNDED UPON THE REALITIES OF LIFE, HAS MADE A NAME FOR HIMSELF SPANNING ACROSS THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION WORLD. YOU MAY SEE HIS DESIGNS IN ONE OF YOUR FAVORITE FASHION MAGAZINES, OR SIT IN A LUCID DAYDREAM AS YOU BROWSE ONE OF HIS FASHION STORIES. THE TALENTED MR. GUREVICH HAS MORE THAN A FEW TRICKS UP HIS SLEEVE. WE RECENTLY GAVE GUREVICH THE TASK OF INTERPRETING OUR LATEST CHAPTER, WHICH WE TITLE, THE BAPTISM. INSPIRED BY THE IDEA OF REBIRTH AND THE IRONIC NATURE OF TRANSFORMATION, WE WERE ANXIOUS TO SEE EXACTLY WHAT HE WOULD CREATE. WHILE THE IMAGES CERTAINLY HAVE A MARVELOUS LIFE OF THEIR OWN, WE DECIDED THAT IT WOULD BE EVEN MORE INTRIGUING TO VIEW THE STORY AS HE SAW IT, SCENE BY SCENE, MOMENT BY MOMENT. THESE ARE HIS THOUGHTS, INSPIRATIONS, AND THE STORY OF THE WONDROUS WORLD OF LEONID GUREVICH.

LEONID GUREVICH dress. Photographer Zhang Jingna

/ What is fashion to you? Fashion to me is most certainly not about what is ‘in’ this season and what is ‘out’. To me fashion goes way beyond apparel. Fashion is such an intelligence-boosting force. Researching for a collection alone takes designers around the world, making them uncover and process mountains of information during their journey. When wearing designers’ clothes, people are inherently also wearing all of the inspiration behind these garments. That is why minimalism in fashion is so disappointing to me. Less is not more. More is more. Fashion is edification. Fashion is a history. Fashion is geography. Fashion is stimulation. Fashion is an invitation to enjoy life. / What’s your favorite part of creating things? Whenever I am working on designing or styling an editorial, my favorite part is the moment when I come up with a strong inspiring concept knowing it will make an impact. I get chills when this happens and I cannot wait to start bringing it to life. Another favorite part is when after weeks and weeks of research, calls, appointments, pulls, and last-minute-cancellations, everything falls together for a perfect fit.

/ Where were you born? How does this influence your perspective on creating? I was born in the same country as Sasha Pivovarova and Anna Kournikova. Growing up, I faced a dichotomy of fashion dissonance. On one hand, I was influenced by the exquisite handmade costumes I watched my seamstress mother create for the Bolshoi Theatre – which was as close to Couture as you could possibly get. On the other hand, I was forced to wear these atrocious polyester uniforms to school, looking just like everyone else. There was no such thing as individuality - so I became one of the few rebels to lead an army of students that started dressing up distinctively, and in-part, helped abolish the mandatory requirement to wear the faceless uniforms. Individuality is a luxury you have to fight for. And to this day I am all about individuality, all about standing out and having your own voice. That is one of the main reasons why living in America for almost twenty five years has resonated so well with me. America respects the rebellious spirit, as this country was founded by rebels who refused to follow rules and regulations that didn’t make sense to them. They didn’t know where they were going, they just knew they needed to get out of a place where they weren’t allowed to use their full potential.

LEONID GUREVICH dress. Photography by Miss Aniela

/ Did you always know that you would end up working in the creative world? Absolutely. Ever since I can remember, I was always drawn to beautiful people, interesting things, to anything that was the opposite of dull and boring. Coincidentally, the very first ‘foreign’ magazine I got my hands on growing-up was American Vogue. I became my mother’s little apprentice and learned about sewing from an early age - how could I end up anywhere else? My earliest memory is when I was about 5 years old, helping my mother to create a beautiful decorative piece with butterflies on velvet with lace inserts for wings, encrusted with stones and gold embroidery… breathtaking… I will never forget that. That was the moment when I subconsciously realized that this was the direction I needed to be heading in. Making beauty with your own hands out of nothing, seeing people react to it, inspiring them, inspiring yourself. What can be better? Later on, when I saw Mugler’s pieces in George Michael’s “Too Funky” video, it cemented my decision to become a designer. The creative inspiration for this issue was based on the idea of “Baptism”. In your words, what did this idea represent for you? I am always trying to break away from clichés. I had zero

interest in creating another pretty story with a religious theme. Baptism is a believer’s ritual to become a member of the church. By being baptized, people show their god that they are willing to be obedient to his commandments. Most people are baptized when they are babies, i.e. before they can decide for themselves. It is the adult baptism that is of particular interest to me. Religion is a choice. I am intrigued by some adult individuals’ decisions to become a part of a group or an organization to the point where they choose to overlook logic, common sense, sanity and morality. Baptism doesn’t only mean starched lacy accouterments, rays of light through a stained glass window, and few drops of holy water on a reverent forehead. It is also an official authorization to feel superior and vilify others for no reason: “He that believeth and is baptized shall be saved. But he that believeth not shall be damned.” Mark 16:16. That is what Baptism essentially is to me. Holy Scriptures are jam-packed with analogous ‘inspirational’ memes. Anyone can look it up in the Bible that they are so intent on clinging to. If people choose to keep claiming that religion is all about peace and love, taking verses out of context ignoring these blatant discrepancies, that’s up to them, but not to a point where their religious beliefs and practices come at someone else’s expense. That is not what the First Amendment is about. Like many Americans, I’m not a religious person. Freedom of religion also means freedom from religion. VOL. III

In “Sacramentum” I am purposely drawing parallels with scenarios consistent in fraternity initiations: The pressure. The hazing. The humiliation of the pledge. The willingness to be oppressed before being welcomed to oppress others. The Church has historically employed two main tactics: intimidation and theatrical pyrotechnics. The theatrics keep the recruits razzledazzled while the fear keeps them obedient and submissive. The female figure in the editorial symbolizes the Church in all its gaudiness. In the hazing scene near the pool, even though her face and body pretend to express compassion, in reality she doesn’t only condone but actually orchestrates the entire operation. Like many others, I am frequently reminded in a popularly quoted bestseller that my identity is referred to as being an ‘abomination’. Hence, I reserve the right to show my point of view and my interpretation of this whole act. But I’ve chosen to do it artistically because I am an artist first. / Was the process challenging? Productions involving many people are usually challenging because everything and everyone needs to be turned to the camera at the proper angle; everyone’s body language and facial expressions need to be convincing and work together towards the final result. You cannot release everyone until you get the shot that ‘hits the highest note’ to convey your idea. The most challenging, yet most rewarding part of any production is working with people, working with their talents, egos and professionalism levels. People involved might get anxious at times, but you know the moment when you get the shot. Call it perfectionism, but why even bother if it’s not going to be absolutely perfect.

LEONID GUREVICH runway show. Photographer Anton Mokkas

We had a fantastic team shooting “Sacramentum”: Four brilliant male models and one stunning female model. It was a pleasure to work with photographer Hadriel Gonzalez. Makeup artist Ido Raphael, hair stylist Lorenzo Diaz and a manicurist Angel Williams all did a phenomenal job. It was also a privilege shooting at the incredible, newly opened, MatchPoint NYC, a luxury health and fitness complex for the entire family, spreading across a whopping 120,000 sq. ft. I must tell you about Zebedee Row, the star of “Sacramentum”, an Australian import. Imagine a young Brad Pitt with a hint of Johnny Depp. I’ve never seen a more symmetrical face. He is a fantastic model and a very talented actor with distinctive style. He is currently shooting a pilot with Martin Scorsese for HBO. I think I’ve found my male model muse. / You also just debuted as a photographer for another publication, how did that come about? Will you be pursuing more projects as a photographer?

There are many photographers with undeniable vision and skill. These are the photographers who respect all of a designer’s scrupulous work that goes into creating a garment and all of the meticulous styling work that goes into putting complicated looks together. These photographers take what they are given and they multiply it. They enhance it. Working with them is bliss. However, since not all photographers are created equal, I still like having the opportunity to deliver my original idea from inception to completion without having someone transform it the way they see fit at the most crucial moment - the moment of capturing it, without me having any say in it. Plus I like the idea of owning the rights to my own work. You see, I started initially as a designer and then proceeded into styling professionally. Venturing into photography allowed me to view all of these professions and the whole fashion hierarchy in an entirely different light (grinning sardonically). Designers have existed long before these other fashion jobs were even created. The fact is, if there is no garment, there is nothing to style, nothing to shoot, and nothing to write about. Yet, design

Leonid Gurevich styles Amanda Lepore for Dark Beauty magazine. Photographer Sequoia Emmanuelle

“AND TO THIS DAY I AM ALL ABOUT INDIVIDUALITY, ALL ABOUT STANDING OUT AND HAVING YOUR OWN VOICE.” - LEONID GUREVICH

Amanda is wearing Cage Corset Chromat Rings Alexis Bittar hair Lorenzo Diaz using wig by Steven Perfidia Kirkham makeup Esteban David VOL. III

ers paradoxically are located at the very bottom of the food chain, overworked and frequently miscredited, all while putting their livelihoods in the hands of everyone’s subjective mood at any given time from a patternmaker to a store merchandiser and everyone in between. The amount of thought, labor, skill, stress, anxiety, sleepless nights and investment that goes into creating a collection is incomprehensible. A designer’s work is only as good as the photographer holding the camera. Some young designers spend their whole life savings on collections, while many others end up deep in debt, all while being told by photographers “not to tell them how to do their job” should they be shooting their work from a wrong angle. Every designer and every stylist knows exactly what I am talking about. Why do you think Karl Lagerfeld started taking pictures himself? I always look forward to working with great photographers, but I am also going to continue shooting my own work in between. / You’re very well known for many things. Art Direction, Styling, and Fashion Design being amongst them? How do you manage to balance it all out? Do you work on everything at once? I think that a designer is both a stylist and an art director by default. You simply cannot design a dress without designing a woman in it first, without designing the space around her, without designing the world around her. When you put your heart into creating the garment from scratch, you know exactly how it’s going to look when the model stands, walks, sits, which detail will help her make an impression, and what will look good on camera. So to me, these are all parts of a greater whole.

Thank you. It was easily one of the most memorable, most magical productions. We were staying and shooting at the Aynhoe Park in the UK, at this opulent 39-room country house built in the seventeenth century. A truly surreal place filled with jaguars, crocodiles in top hats and unicorns. This ad campaign for brand new Nikon D810 was produced and photographed by the remarkable Miss Aniela, who I’ve been enjoying a fruitful collaboration with for the past few years. In the castle we had a live zebra, live flamingo and a live vulture with us on the set we called “White Witch Awakening”. A stunning British model Mimy Ellis, who is out of this world, played the White Witch. I made the white leather dress exclusively for the Nikon photoshoot. It was a two-part campaign; we also shot a segment with a mermaid at a different location two days earlier. The most insane thing about both of these already complex productions was that by the contract everything was supposed to be done with zero photoshop enhancements, the only processing was overall setting adjustment in the camera. So whatever you see on the released images is all real; not a single pixel was altered. / Who’s your favorite designer? Why? I find it impossible to single-out one particular designer, I have to name a few: Victor & Rolf, for starters, I am obsessed with what they do – it’s pure enchantment; Thom Browne, for the same reason, but only his runway collections. I love Marchesa for being the epitome of femininity. I absolutely adore Manish Arora for creating explosions of happiness in each look. Iris Van Herpen probably intrigues me the most…To be able to use the latest technology as comfortably as she does, seeing things the way she sees them... She must be from another planet.

/ What do you dream about? / Who do you look up to? I dream of a time when people will wear exciting clothes without ever worrying about being perceived as overdressed. Freedom to dress up is one of the most peaceful and exciting freedoms in the world. Why not enjoy it? I dream of a time when political games are played without human sacrifices. I dream of a time when no child in the world is abused. / What’s one thing that you’ve never told anyone?

I have endless admiration for self-made individuals such as Salvador Dali, Donald Trump, Tim Burton, and Diana Vreeland. They are from different industries but they all have one thing in common: Thinking way out of the box, coloring way outside the lines. These are the kind of people I look up to. / If you could work alongside anyone in the world right now, who would that be? Why?

Other people’s secrets. (Smiling) / If you could be anywhere in the world right now, where would you be?

I would be thrilled to work with Tilda Swinton. She is an extraordinary actress, a courageous woman of a thousand faces. There is nothing she wouldn’t try for the sake of Art. I am in continuous awe of her.

In a heartbeat I would be back in Paris, at Hotel Le Bristol, enjoying their magnificent artichoke soup with panseared foie gras and black truffle emulsion.

/ What’s next for Leonid Gurevich.

/ If your work was a song or soundtrack, what would it be? It would be “Elle Me Dit” by Mika. Dynamic and carrying an inspiring message. / The images you styled for NIKON D810 advertisement were absolutely brilliant. What was it like? Where did it take place?

I am thrilled thinking about the future. I’ve received some delicious proposals following my styling for Nikon. I will be traveling more. I am styling few elaborate editorials in the next few months. I am also commissioned to style lookbooks for a designer. I am considering fashion editing. I would also absolutely love to design costumes for the cinema. It would be a personal and professional triumph to have the opportunity design beautiful costumes for a period movie with a nice budget.

LEONID GUREVICH is an American fashion designer and stylist. The multicultural, multilingual artist is zealously bringing back a time “when women didn’t just wear clothes, they slipped them on as if embracing a feeling of a character, living a scene in the Golden Age of cinematic yesteryear; a slower time in history, when beautiful movies were created, when unique clothes were appreciated, when men and women were inspired to be ladies and gentlemen”

photographer Miss Aniela model Taylor, Heffner Models stylist & dress Leonid Gurevich jewelry pins Remarkable Button lighting Matt Lennard hair Zoe Boysen makeup Nikoma Souza production Creative Live & Miss Aniela

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Carol Fung / Interview CAROL FUNG IS ONE OF THOSE RARE DESIGNERS, WHO SIMPLY GETS IT. WITH HER RISING BRAND, PRAE, FUNG IS REDEFINING THE MODERN SILHOUETTE. FROM PERFECTLY STYLED ACTIVE WEAR SEPARATES TO EVEN MORE IMPECCABLE TEE DRESSES, SHE KNOWS THE WOMAN SHE IS DRAPING. IN THE SAME SCHOOL OF AESTHETICS AS HARD HITTING, GAME CHANGERS ALEXANDER WANG AND RAG & BONE, THE PRAE WOMAN HAS MASTERED THE ART OF EFFORTLESS CHIC. WE SIT DOWN TO SPEAK WITH FUNG ABOUT THESE INFLUENCES AS SHE SHARES HER IDEAS ON DESIGN, STYLE, INSPIRATION, AND THE SECRETS OF THE PRAE WOMAN.

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/ Describe your brand in 5 words: Relaxed, cool, pretty, sporty, fun. / What influenced your latest collection? Oceans, beaches, sun and surf, as well as the vibrancy of city life – these are core influences for the brand. It’s important that the PRAE girl/woman feel relaxed in the clothes and at the same time, sleek enough for the streets. / Who do you envision wearing your designs? Who is the PRAE girl? The PRAE customer lives in the city but is a beach girl at heart. There is something about the sense of freedom you experience when you are swimming in the wide expanse of the ocean, or when you are connected to nature – it’s this sensibility that stays with the PRAE girl, even if she lives in a city like New York, Hong Kong or Paris. When she wears PRAE, she should feel comfortable, like she could have just come back from a swim in the ocean (that “après-surf vibe”) no matter where she lives in the world. She is thoughtful about how she wants to live and her impact in the everyday. / PRAE , what does that mean and how did you decide upon that brand name? PRAE is an ancient variant of “pre” in Latin. The brand and collections are built around silk bralettes that are subtly sexy and designed for a smaller woman. Since she likes to wear clothes a little oversized, often you will see a hint of the bralette. The idea being that even if you are smaller, you can feel confident and attractive as a woman. The PRAE way of dressing begins with the bralettes – “pre”-dressing with the most intimate piece. It’s about being thoughtful about how you want to feel and be, starting from the inside. / When are your most inspired? Inspiration comes from being around nature, going on an adventure, being around inspirational friends and family, and those moments of connectedness and community. / What’s the most difficult part of design? Always questioning whether something can be improved, or if it feels like a “PRAE” piece. Usually getting the right fit is the hardest to nail. / Tell me a little about your dreams: It would be a dream for PRAE to stand for more than just a clothing brand; to be in a position to influence positively, give back to the world and support other people in their dreams.

PRAE is a New York based women’s ready-to-wear line founded on the concept of uniform dressing instilled with the ease of loungewear - a laid-back luxe built for the city.The brand’s aesthetic is fueled by the fusion of the founder’s childhood beach lifestyle in Australia, the rawness of New York’s streets, and a touch of the surreal. Fundamental to the brand are modern, design-driven silk bralettes, laying the foundation for the PRAE lifestyle.

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

Rogue. CLOTHING BY PRAE

photography by

Jon Gordon art direction by

Francis Vazquez fashion styling by

Morgan Cruz makeup by

Rie Hirabayashi hair by

Keila Sone models

Samantha Xu / Muse Betty / Muse

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SACRAMENTUM. “HE THAT BELIEVETH AND IS BAPTIZED SHALL BE SAVED; BUT HE THAT BELIEVETH NOT SHALL BE DAMNED” MARK 16:16

Leonid Gurevich Hadriel Gonzalez

concept, styling, & art direction photograpy

hair

models

Lorenzo Diaz Ido Raphael for Factory Downtown

Zebedee Row / Mint, Avi Vichner / Mint Lamar Ballard / Mint, Chris Colton / Request & Laura Kargulewicz / Wilhelmina

nails

location

Angel Williams

MatchPoint NYC

makeup

photographer’s assistant

Marck Salazar

On Avi Shirt Forte Shorts Forte Necklace & Bracelet Maksim Chmerkovskiy for Cantamessa Man Leggings Geoffrey Mac Footwear DNA On Zebedee Shorts Asher Levine Ring Chris Habana On Lamar Lace Windbreaker Marlon Gobel Shorts Asher Levine

On Zebedee Top Luar Zepol

On Avi Jacket Bass by Ron Bass Necklace Geoffrey Mac Cross Ear Clip Chris Habana

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On Laura Necklace worn as crown Sugar Scout Necklace Jolita Jewelry Veil Sareh Nouri Dress Sukeina Gold Cuff Harrison Morgan Rings Laruicci Ring GBGH Jewelry Footwear Zack Lo On Chris Shirt Asher Levine Shorts Forte Bracelet Geoffrey Mac Footwear DNA On Zebedee Cross Necklace Miranda Hope On Lamar Trousers Forte Bracelet Geoffrey Mac 3D Printed Necklace Francine Frohlich Footwear DNA On Avi Jumpsuit Asher Levine Necklace Geoffrey Mac Footwear DNA

On Chris Jacket Jose Duran Shorts Forte Cross Necklace Alexis Bittar Bracelets & Ring Maksim Chmerkovskiy for Cantamessa Man

On Zebedee Transparent Jacket Marlon Gobel Cross Pendant Miranda Hope On Laura Skirt Francine Frohlich Ring Laruicci Rings GBGH Jewelry

On Laura Crown Fiori Couture Dress (top shown) Venexiana Skirt Alex Ulichny Necklace (small) Shop 3NY Necklace (large) Purevile Large Bangles, Cross Pendant in Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand Alexis Bittar Bracelets, Rings GBGH Jewelry Bracelets, Rings Chris Habana Rings Laruicci

On Laura Dress Madeline Gruen Rings Laruicci

photographer

Yachin Parham fashion editor

Vanessa Bellan makeup

Natalie Cordona hair

Giselle Modeste model

Keila Santos @ DNA

SHADES OF COOL

RING DIABOLI KILL, NECKLACE LØMO, BATHING SUIT WORN AS HEAD WRAP RAYA HANON, CUFFS, ENTERESANT, KNUCKLE RING KESHA ROSE BY CHARLES ALBERT 82

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GO BOLD WITH STATEMENT PIECES IN EXOTIC HUES OF FLORA AND FAUNA, AS YOU BASQUE IN THE LUXURY OF SEASCAPES AND GILDED SEASONLESS SANDS. IRIDESCENT STONES AND MARVELOUS SKINS REFLECT THE RICHNESS OF THE WORLD AROUND YOU AS WE BREATHE SLOWLY, AND NOD APPRECIATIVELY THAT IT NEVER HAS TO END.

BEADED CROSS BRACELET, FRASIER STERLING, KNUCKLE RING KESHA ROSE BY CHARLES ALBERT, CUFFS, ENTERESANT, SNAKE SKIN BAG OLD GRINGO, BATHING SUIT BOTTOM RAYA HANON

NECKLACE CHARLES ALBERT

NECKLACE, TOP ASOS

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

GOLDEN GIRL photography by

Yachin Parham fashion styling by

Dann Ryan Weir makeup by

Clarissa Luna @ ABTP hair by

Katy Albright @ Agency Gerard Management

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SWIMWEAR AMI, SHOES GUESS

SWIMWEAR AMI

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SWIMWEAR AMI

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Neo Noir.

creative director

models from Request Models

Brendon Alexander photographer

Chris Ferguson, Jay Colbert Khorey & Torey Macdonald

Ricardo Nelson

models from New York Models

production

Kern & Vincent Harrington

Amahd Beadle

models from Red NYC

makeup

Shawn C, Timothy L, Edwin Gill Jason Cameron, Magore Mang & Kone

Zarellie Washington body paint

Miriam Chelsea

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THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

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TWO PIECE QUILTED TRACK SUIT MARLON GLOBEL T SHIRT CALVIN KLEIN

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FULL LOOK ISSEY MIYAKE

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PRINTED BUTTON DOWN & TROUSERS AGNES B

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BODY ART MJC ARTISTRY

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TWO PIECE QUILTED TRACK SUIT MARLON GLOBEL

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ARISTOTLE ROSARIO REMINDS US WHAT STATEMENT STYLE IS ALL ABOUT AS HE CREATES COLLECTIONS FULL OF IMPECCABLY CURATED MOMENTS. WITH INFLUENCES SPANNING FROM HIS HOME IN THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TO HIS TUTELAGE AT PARSONS IN NEW YORK, ROSARIO’S AESTHETIC IS AS RICH AS IT IS FOCUSED. LED BY THE IMPULSE OF VISIONARIES SUCH AS JEAN-MICHEL BASQUIAT, THE DESIGNER IS FINELY ARTICULATING THE STROKES OF HIS VISION WITH EQUAL AMOUNTS OF ARCHITECTURAL FOCUS AND REBELLIOUS IMAGINATION. IN THE VERY MANTRA OF ROSARIO’S LATEST COLLECTION, JUST KIDS, WE LOOK ON AND PROMISE TO ALWAYS LOOK BACK.

RADAR: ROSARIO words by Lakenya Kelly

model Noam Frost @ The Society

photos by Jonathan Waiter

makeup by Regan Rabanal for MAC

styling by Toyo Tsuchiya

hair by Rudy Martins

producion by Daniel Delany

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RUNWAY REWIND: MILAN MUSING

words by

Lakenya Kelly photographer/editor

Seth London

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AMIDST THE RHYTHM AND GLOSS OF MILAN AND ITS UNFORGIVING GAZE OF LOYAL SPECTATORS, WE TRAVEL ALONGSIDE ONE OF OUR FAVORITE RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHERS, SETH LONDON, AS HE SHARES HIS VIEW FROM THE FRONT ROWS OF SOME OF OUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS AT MEN’S FASHION WEEK. MR. LONDON TAKES US BEYOND THE RUNWAY AND INTO THE LENS OF FASHION AS HE SEES IT. FROM THE UTILITARIAN PARADES OF BLANK FACES TO THE INTRICATE DRAPES OF FABRIC AND STYLE THE WHOLE PICTURE BEGINS TO COME TOGETHER,SLOWLY,JUST AS ANY GOOD FASHION STORY SHOULD. A GLIMPSE INTO AUTUMN/WINTER 14, PACKAGED IN THE BRILLIANT DRAMA OF A TRUE MILAN MUSING, BRAVO BRAVO.

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22/4 K

nown for her effortless ability to create a new era of androgenous cool, Stephanie Haan once again offers us the quintessential elements of modern style. Seemingly, perfectly slouched separates in shades of noir, blue, and monochrome frame the collection, while offering an effortless sense of structure and youthful vibrato. The haunting words, “The kiss”, echo quietly as we’re seduced by the couture lines and shadows of a newfound sense of relaxed fashion innuendo.

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ANDREA INCONTRI A

ndrea Incontri offers a refreshing garb of perfectly tailored active pieces, marked by the sophistication of a true dandy.The transition between the various to-doâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of everyday life , reveal itself in various stages of practical dressing and sleek construction. Inspired by the pull and flux of the world we live in, Incontri sketches his idea of the perfect uniform with quick strokes and a robust palette of hues that are far from primary.

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COSTUME NATIONAL C

ostume National designer, Ennio Capasa, finds himself somewhere between the eras of classic haberdashery and progressive cool as he presents a collection defined by an intriguing medley of contradictions. Sleek black smart suits trace the runway, followed by Prada-esque shapes, infused with surprising cameos of color. A subtle sense of controlled chaos, interrupts the usual monotony of events as we all relax a bit, and gaze up again and again.

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ICEBERG F

rom the graphic backdrop of the runway to the entrancing snare and bounce of the soundtrack, Iceberg provides a collection that travels at the speed of sound. Inspired classics such as the smart trouser and fall knit are given an architecturally rendered interpretation as the peaks and lows of confident movement, create their own rhythm throughout the transitions of hue, texture, and shape.

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CORNELIANI T

he lights dim and the music begins as a violin scales its epitaph amidst a linear arrangement of columnades, shadows, and razor sharp figures. We watch intently as the beat builds, tracing its way through the pulsating energy of the audience, as Corneliani delivers look after look of ingeniously styled statement pieces. Handsome tartans, knits, and slick leathers dance along to the narration of the Corneliani Renaissance fair.

TOM REBL T

om Rebl offers a lesson on drape as he showcases his daring tribe of ironic, masculine fashion instincts. A subtle , yet complex blend of soft, androgenous cuts weave new textures through roughly hewn fabrics and faces of the homo-erectus provocateur. Grounded in an au natural play on male beauty,we redefine our sense of perception and nod in obligatory program to the and radiance of the Tom Rebl man.

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RSVP TODAY AND DOWNLOAD OUR NEWEST ISSUE NOW AVAILABLE ON A SLEEK NEW PLATFORM JUST FOR YOU.

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THE ALL NEW THEDAPIFER.COM

HAVE A SEAT FRONT ROW, ALONGSIDE FASHION’S NEWEST NAME, AS WE SHARE EXCLUSIVE IMAGES, VIDEOS, AND FASHION SECRETS FROM OUR EDITORS TO YOU.

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THE DAPIFERTV

P R E S S P L AY A N D S I T F R O N T R O W A S W E S H A R E O U R L AT E S T FA S H I O N F I L M S , I N T E R V I E W S , A N D V I D E O E XC L U S I V E S .

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THE BEGINNING

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM