PREVIEW: THE DAPIFER, VOL.III ,THE BAPTISM

VOL. III

THE BAPTISM

T H E

DAPIFER

#JOIN US

@THEDAPIFER

Tigers scream can not be heard anymore.

There were eight tiger subspecies at one time.

Three became extinct during the 20th century.

Tigars are hunted as trophies, and as body parts that are used in traditional Chinese medicine.

Over the last 100 years, hunting and forest destruction have reduced tiger population from millions to perhaps fewer than 2,500 today.

Tigers scream can not be heard anymore...

“Tiger’s Scream” Oil on denim part of the series from the “Art of Denim” exhibition

THE

DAPIFER CONTRIBUTORS EDITOR IN CHIEF

LAKENYA KELLY CREATIVE DIRECTOR

FRANCIS VAZQUEZ ASSOC. PHOTO DIRECTOR

JON GORDON FASHION/MARKET EDITOR

VANESSA BELLAN ASSOC. PHOTOGRAPHER

YACHIN PARHAM

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS HADRIEL GONZALES (COVER STORY) RICARDO NELSON SETH LONDON ERIC WHITE YACHIN PARHAM JON GORDON FRANCIS VAZQUEZ

CONTRIBUTING FASHION EDITORS LEONID GUREVICH (COVER STORY) BRENDON ALEXANDER SEQUINE S. LEE YOSHIHIRO HIDAKA MORGAN CRUZ DANN RYAN WEIR

FEATURED INTERVIEWS LEONID GUREVICH GARRETT LEIGHT CAROL FUNG

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Crown Fiori Couture Dress (top shown) Venexiana Shirt Alex Ulichny Necklace (small) Shop 3NY Necklace (large) Purevile Large Bangles, Cross Pendant in Model’s hand Alexis Bittar Bracelets, Rings GBGH Jewelry Bracelets, Rings Chris Habana Rings Laruicci

GLOSSARY FASHION I Mourners Lost to the Ages A play on Words Lotus

p12 p20 p26 p30

FEATURES I Radar: Houghton p38 Model Access: Ladies’ Choice p40 INTERVIEW Optical Allusions: Garrett Leight p48 The Wondrous World of Leonid Gurevich p52 Carol Fung Interview p60

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FASHION II Rogue p62 Sacramentum p70 Shades of Cool p80 Golden Girl p84 Neo Noir p90 FEATURES II Runway p98

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www.barquenewyork.com

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

EDITOR’S LETTER Every now and again, the creative world is introduced to itself. Somewhere amidst the monotony of simply ‘creating’ lies an even more revealing form of art. I personally, always search for these mediums- they are mostly found in people. It’s an unavoidable sensory connection, guided by the pulse of kinetic energy and lucid imagination. This is where the chapter always begins for The Dapifer. Hidden in the interconnected grand scheme of things we attempt to pull apart our deepest thoughts, ideas, and shared fantasies about the world we live in and the people that occupy it.

Guided by the all knowing commentary of Fashion, we travel into the concept of Baptism. Encompassed in all of its Religious connotation and emotional fervor, is a deeply universal experience.

Not the act of Religion of course, but the act of transforming ourselves. As Leonid Gurevich so poignantly states in his featured interview, it is not always our choice, and in that two-fold dialogue, we find enlightenment.

Most of our lives are guided by expectations. We’re asked ‘what we want to be when we grow up’ before we realize what growing up really means. We’re taught to color in the lines and search for answers in the book. Our infinite world of uncertain possibilities becomes a linear progression of tasks and normalities. Perhaps this is why the world, and each of us in it, are involuntarily drawn to the idea of ‘the artist’. I recall a great novel I read recently which expresses the notion, ‘everything we do in life is art.’ I must admit, I wouldn’t have understood this when I was a child, maybe not even 3 years ago.

It’s never easy to discuss these types of politics. Even in an increasingly tense society, the conversation falls flat. The subjectivity of object becomes the objectivity of reason and we find ourselves walking the tight-rope. None of us can keep our balance forever and the inevitable is a constant. Completely submerged in the river of self-realization, we come up again and again gasping for air. Suddenly, instinct abadons and we realize that we’re not drowning and never was. Most create their best work in this moment. In a place where words flow freely and confident strokes fill empty white spaces upon the canvases of perception. Welcome to The Baptism.

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LEATHER JACKET VINTAGE YSL

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The Mourners. photography by

Jon Gordon fashion direction by

Lakenya Kelly art direction by

Francis Vazquez makeup by

Rie Hirabayashi hair by

Ty Shearn models

Ira S / Muse, Maria K / Muse Marion S / Major

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ON MARION DRESS LEONID GUREVICH

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ON IRA BRA & PANTS CALVIN KLEIN ON MARIA LEATHER BUSTIER TOP MATHIEU MIRANO PANTS J. BRAND

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Dress Jose Duran, Crown Mordekai, Leather Pleated Neck Piece Perez Sanz

Lost to the Ages. creative direction by

Brendon Alexander photography by

Eric White beauty by

Eric assistance by

Anthony Shands

Metal Bustier Laurel Dewitt, Latex Skirt Linie, Arm Cuffs Perez Sanz

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photographer Seth London fashion editor Sequine S. Lee model Jacoby / Red

All Accessories Stylist’s Own, T-Shirt Top Man, Blazer Costume National

A Play on Words.

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

T-shirt Top Man Fedora & Trousers Craven

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Lotus.

photography by

Francis Vazquez fashion styling by

Yoshihiro Hidaka make-up by

Caitlin Wooters hair styling by

Kat Zemtsova

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Dress Katrin Schnabl, Brief American Apparel VOL. III

The Wondrous World of Leonid Gurevich.

LEONID GUREVICH STYLES DIANDRA FORREST FOR DARK BEAUTY MAGAZINE. PHOTOGRAPHER JASON SETIAWAN

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

Leonid Gurevich photographed by Miss Aniela at the Greystone Court, 2014

IN THIS LATEST ISSUE, WE INVITE ELUSIVE FASHION EDITOR LEONID GUREVICH INTO OUR PAGES AND CREATIVE COMMENTARY AS WE BRING TO LIFE, YET ANOTHER CHAPTER OF THE DAPIFER. GUREVICH, KNOWN FOR HIS IMPECCABLY GILDED USE OF FANTASY GROUNDED UPON THE REALITIES OF LIFE, HAS MADE A NAME FOR HIMSELF SPANNING ACROSS THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION WORLD. YOU MAY SEE HIS DESIGNS IN ONE OF YOUR FAVORITE FASHION MAGAZINES, OR SIT IN A LUCID DAYDREAM AS YOU BROWSE ONE OF HIS FASHION STORIES. THE TALENTED MR. GUREVICH HAS MORE THAN A FEW TRICKS UP HIS SLEEVE. WE RECENTLY GAVE GUREVICH THE TASK OF INTERPRETING OUR LATEST CHAPTER, WHICH WE TITLE, THE BAPTISM. INSPIRED BY THE IDEA OF REBIRTH AND THE IRONIC NATURE OF TRANSFORMATION, WE WERE ANXIOUS TO SEE EXACTLY WHAT HE WOULD CREATE. WHILE THE IMAGES CERTAINLY HAVE A MARVELOUS LIFE OF THEIR OWN, WE DECIDED THAT IT WOULD BE EVEN MORE INTRIGUING TO VIEW THE STORY AS HE SAW IT, SCENE BY SCENE, MOMENT BY MOMENT. THESE ARE HIS THOUGHTS, INSPIRATIONS, AND THE STORY OF THE WONDROUS WORLD OF LEONID GUREVICH.

On Laura Necklace worn as crown Sugar Scout Necklace Jolita Jewelry Veil Sareh Nouri Dress Sukeina Gold Cuff Harrison Morgan Rings Laruicci Ring GBGH Jewelry Footwear Zack Lo On Chris Shirt Asher Levine Shorts Forte Bracelet Geoffrey Mac Footwear DNA On Zebedee Cross Necklace Miranda Hope On Lamar Trousers Forte Bracelet Geoffrey Mac 3D Printed Necklace Francine Frohlich Footwear DNA On Avi Jumpsuit Asher Levine Necklace Geoffrey Mac Footwear DNA

Carol Fung / Interview CAROL FUNG IS ONE OF THOSE RARE DESIGNERS, WHO SIMPLY GETS IT. WITH HER RISING BRAND, PRAE, FUNG IS REDEFINING THE MODERN SILHOUETTE. FROM PERFECTLY STYLED ACTIVE WEAR SEPARATES TO EVEN MORE IMPECCABLE TEE DRESSES, SHE KNOWS THE WOMAN SHE IS DRAPING. IN THE SAME SCHOOL OF AESTHETICS AS HARD HITTING, GAME CHANGERS ALEXANDER WANG AND RAG & BONE, THE PRAE WOMAN HAS MASTERED THE ART OF EFFORTLESS CHIC. WE SIT DOWN TO SPEAK WITH FUNG ABOUT THESE INFLUENCES AS SHE SHARES HER IDEAS ON DESIGN, STYLE, INSPIRATION, AND THE SECRETS OF THE PRAE WOMAN.

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Describe your brand in 5 words: Relaxed, cool, pretty, sporty, fun.

What influenced your latest collection?

Oceans, beaches, sun and surf, as well as the vibrancy of city life – these are core influences for the brand. It’s important that the PRAE girl/woman feel relaxed in the clothes and at the same time, sleek enough for the streets.

Who do you envision wearing your designs? Who is the PRAE girl?

The PRAE customer lives in the city but is a beach girl at heart. There is something about the sense of freedom you experience when you are swimming in the wide expanse of the ocean, or when you are connected to nature – it’s this sensibility that stays with the PRAE girl, even if she lives in a city like New York, Hong Kong or Paris. When she wears PRAE, she should feel comfortable, like she could have just come back from a swim in the ocean (that “après-surf vibe”) no matter where she lives in the world. She is thoughtful about how she wants to live and her impact in the everyday.

PRAE , what does that mean and how did you decide upon that brand name?

PRAE is an ancient variant of “pre” in Latin. The brand and collections are built around silk bralettes that are subtly sexy and designed for a smaller woman. Since she likes to wear clothes a little oversized, often you will see a hint of the bralette. The idea being that even if you are smaller, you can feel confident and attractive as a woman. The PRAE way of dressing begins with the bralettes – “pre”-dressing with the most intimate piece. It’s about being thoughtful about how you want to feel and be, starting from the inside.

When are your most inspired?

Inspiration comes from being around nature, going on an adventure, being around inspirational friends and family, and those moments of connectedness and community.

What’s the most difficult part of design?

Always questioning whether something can be improved, or if it feels like a “PRAE” piece. Usually getting the right fit is the hardest to nail.

Tell me a little about your dreams: It would be a dream for PRAE to stand for more than just a clothing brand; to be in a position to influence positively, give back to the world and support other people in their dreams.

PRAE is a New York based women’s ready-to-wear line founded on the concept of uniform dressing instilled with the ease of loungewear - a laid-back luxe built for the city.The brand’s aesthetic is fueled by the fusion of the founder’s childhood beach lifestyle in Australia, the rawness of New York’s streets, and a touch of the surreal. Fundamental to the brand are modern, design-driven silk bralettes, laying the foundation for the PRAE lifestyle.

THE DAPIFER presents THE BAPTISM

Rogue.

CLOTHING BY PRAE

photography by

Jon Gordon art direction by

Francis Vazquez fashion styling by

Morgan Cruz makeup by

Rie Hirabayashi hair by

Keila Sone models

Samantha Xu / Muse Betty / Muse

SHADES OF COOL

RING DIABOLI KILL, NECKLACE LØMO, BATHING SUIT WORN AS HEAD WRAP RAYA HANON, CUFFS, ENTERESANT, KNUCKLE RING KESHA ROSE BY CHARLES ALBERT 80

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GO BOLD WITH STATEMENT PIECES IN EXOTIC HUES OF FLORA AND FAUNA, AS YOU BASQUE IN THE LUXURY OF SEASCAPES AND GILDED SEASONLESS SANDS. IRIDESCENT STONES AND MARVELOUS SKINS REFLECT THE RICHNESS OF THE WORLD AROUND YOU AS WE BREATHE SLOWLY, AND NOD APPRECIATIVELY THAT IT NEVER HAS TO END.

BEADED CROSS BRACELET, FRASIER STERLING, KNUCKLE RING KESHA ROSE BY CHARLES ALBERT, CUFFS, ENTERESANT, SNAKE SKIN BAG OLD GRINGO, BATHING SUIT BOTTOM RAYA HANON

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Runway Rewind: Milan Musing

words by

Lakenya Kelly photographer/editor

Seth London

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AMIDST THE RHYTHM AND GLOSS OF MILAN AND ITS UNFORGIVING GAZE OF LOYAL SPECTATORS, WE TRAVEL ALONGSIDE ONE OF OUR FAVORITE RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHERS, SETH LONDON, AS HE SHARES HIS VIEW FROM THE FRONT ROWS OF SOME OF OUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS AT MEN’S FASHION WEEK. MR. LONDON TAKES US BEYOND THE RUNWAY AND INTO THE LENS OF FASHION AS HE SEES IT. FROM THE UTILITARIAN PARADES OF BLANK FACES TO THE INTRICATE DRAPES OF FABRIC AND STYLE THE WHOLE PICTURE BEGINS TO COME TOGETHER,SLOWLY,JUST AS ANY GOOD FASHION STORY SHOULD. A GLIMPSE INTO AUTUMN/WINTER 14, PACKAGED IN THE BRILLIANT DRAMA OF A TRUE MILAN MUSING, BRAVO BRAVO.

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The all new THEDAPIFER.COM

HAVE A SEAT FRONT ROW, ALONGSIDE FASHION’S NEWEST NAME, AS WE SHARE EXCLUSIVE IMAGES, VIDEOS, AND FASHION SECRETS FROM OUR EDITORS TO YOU.

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THE DAPIFERTV

P R E S S P L AY A N D S I T F R O N T R O W A S W E S H A R E O U R L AT E S T FA S H I O N F I L M S , I N T E R V I E W S , A N D V I D E O E XC L U S I V E S .

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THE BEGINNING

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