Design Workshop
Spring/Summer 2016
S
pring/Summer 2016 brings traditional ideas to the modern world. It pulls the best notions and ideas
from the past into the present, giving classics new life. No longer are concepts solely influenced by technology. Instead, there is an internal focus on realism, authenticity and what is important to one’s self. For some, it’s paring down and living a less-is-more existence, or achieving a balance of male to female zen, or having a witty and charming life, or even escaping by becoming a citizen of the globe. Equal parts of fundamentals, nature and history push for a modern present. Updating tradition never sounded so novel.
CONTENTS
03
04
26
48
70
ELEMENT
MOTION
BOUQUET
INNATE
ELEMENT Unquestionably current yet completely uncomplicated and basic.
04
Element
ELEMENT
In an age when people can have whatever they want at a touch of a button, and technology has taken hold of lives in virtual and actual reality, the less-is-more aesthetic of utility and uniform continues to endure the passage of time. With an undeniable modern yet basic appeal, ELEMENT carries comfort and promotes tradition, both new and old, as well as a visual quality built upon realism and function rather than frivolous specifics. Stripped down, effortless and completely lo-fi, it’s almost ironic that style etched so deeply into the fabric of fundamentals is now a statement of modern cool. UTILITARIAN 01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
ARTISAN
06-11
12-17
18-21
UTILITARIAN
ARTISAN
MENSWEAR
Element
05
WORKER’S UNIFORM
06
Element
Jacquemus
Marques’ Almeida
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marissa Webb
Creatures of Comfort
Just as it was back when, for those with a hardy soul, workwear is not so much of a sartorial movement but more of a way of life; a search for something a little deeper and more meaningful.
WORKER SHIRT JACKET center front carpenter pocket with pointed collar
STANDARD ISSUE JUMPSUIT
OVERALLS
center front closure and double pockets
adjustable shoulder straps and side metal buttons
APRON & SHORT COMBO tie-waist and patch pocket Element
07
SIMPLE SHIRTING
Tibi
Jason Wu
Suno
Yigal AzrouĂŤl
Creatures of the Wind
The shirt, a simple yet high-end commodity elevated through the finish of the hem and the stitching of the collar or cuff. It’s made to last and be worn as a badge of honor.
08
Element
2-FER BLOUSE sleeveless and double-layered
PULLOVER SHIRT tie-neck closure and 3/4-sleeve
BELTED DRESS slit neckline with self belt
YARN-DYE TUNIC
CULOTTES
double collar and side slits
folded side of waist with topstitch Element
09
INTREPID TREKKER
10
Element
Iceburg Creatures of Comfort
Creatures of the Wind
1205
Creatures of Comfort
Utilitarian outdoor styles posses a wholehearted and sincere approach to need and function. It never tries to be anything but true to history and always classic.
FUNCTIONAL VEST D-ring pocket closure with drawcord on collar and hem
SHIRT DRESS drop-waist line with utility pocket COVERALL self utility belt with flap packet
UTILITY PANTS paperbag waist with cargo side pocket
Element
11
MASTER MARINER
Sonia Rykiel
Michael Kors
Karen Walker
Gucci
Peter Som
With a nod to the high seas, the spectator uniform is far from campy and takes on a fresh undercurrent that manifests itself as practical and demure.
12
Element
CROPPED SWEATER over attached shirt collar with open side
KNIT BLAZER button closure with rib detail
TIE-LACE DRESS godet bottom with topstitched sleeve
NAUTICAL SHORTS
SAILOR COAT
sailor closure with side seam pocket
double-breasted with oversize collar
Element
13
CORPORATE NOW
Atsuro Tayama
Acne Studios
CĂŠline
3.1 Phillip Lim
Jason Wu
Power dressing gets an update through Japaneseinspired lines and closures. For those who want to convey substance, suits are feminine yet still appropriate for the boardroom.
14
Element
TAILORED BLAZER waist wrap belt with princess seam
DOUBLE-BREASTED BLAZER framed round lapel collar with side seam
COAT DRESS asymmetric hem with side belt closure
CIGARETTE PANT front stitch seam with side closure
CROPPED TROUSER deep cuff with high waist
Element
15
DENIM-CLAD
Stella McCartney
Fendi
Trussardi
Veronique Branquinho
ChloĂŠ
Artisanal denim is where the workwear aesthetic begins to go beyond a mere fashion statement. Denim aficionados will be well-versed on raw denim as well as the wash and wear of a particular make and cut.
16
Element
SHIRT DRESS kimono sleeve with button snaps
OVERSIZED VEST zipper detail with flap pockets
TROUSER SHORTS high waist with deep cuff
LONG COAT frayed hem with twobutton closure MIDI SKIRT contrast topstitching with side pockets Element
17
CASUAL UTILITY
3.1 Phillip Lim
Christopher Raeburn
Diesel Black Gold
Margaret Howell
Kolor
Effortless, cool and refined casual styles pay testament to classic workwear. The details, or lack thereof, are based on quality and craftsmanship and honor tradition and value.
18
Element
HENLEY TEE utility pockets with open neckline TUNIC SHIRT stitch-front details with button-down collar
SWEATPANTS cargo pockets with drawstring waistband
UTILITY SHORTS stitch waist with carpenter pockets
FIELD JACKET extended mandarin collar Element
19
INDIGO CRAFT
Prada
Agnes B.
Junya Watanabe
Andrea Pompilio
Junya Watanabe
Bespoke and raw denim pay homage to classic garment workwear roots and remain a staple thanks to the demand for functional, crafted and down-to-earth apparel.
20
Element
POCKET TEE DENIM VEST
heavy jersey with indigo woven pocket
welt pocket with stitched down pocket
DENIM JUMPSUIT jean jacket top with cargo bottom
WORK JACKET RAW DENIM
metal snap buttons with utility pockets
double-watch pocket with slim leg Element
21
Utility hues and rich shades of indigo mold with pieces based upon necessity that will last. Buckle, pocket details and leather roping add interest to simple items.
22
Element
A C C E S S ORIE S
Pared-down. Utilitarian. Industrial blocking.
Element
23
Fashion is nowhere to be found on street style stars, who now use the foundations of Eastern and Western workwear and classic outdoor uniforms as a guide to their everyday dress.
S T R E E T ST YL E JAPANESE WORKER
UTILITY WEAR
24
Element
Japanese workwear inspiration. Simple spectator. Industrial classics.
DENIM-ON-DENIM
SPECTATOR SUIT
Element
25
MOTION A balanced state of serenity and power.
26
Motion
MOTION A feminine undertaking of traditionally male-dominated styles sets the pace for a new movement of serene and even neo-romantic looks. Contemporary dance and movement is the background to this aesthetic of quiet power. As such, technical fabrics are a part of everyday life. A balance between fluidity and structure and even subdued architectural pieces, MOTION contains an overall ethereal feel. It embodies an emotional lightness and tranquility, so calm and beautiful yet strong. It’s a state of complete balance of femininity and masculinity. FLOW 13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
BALANCE
28-33
34-41
42-43
FLOW
BALANCE
MENSWEAR
Motion
27
CITY SUITING
3.1 Phillip Lim
Creatures of Comfort
Salvatore Ferragamo
Carolina Herrera
Hugo Boss
Metropolitan dressing takes on a feminine persona with the help of soothing neutrals and serene shades of calm. A sculptural aspect on otherwise hip clothes is straightforward, simple and refined.
28
Motion
CITY JACKET round shoulder with empire seam
CROPPED BOXY BLAZER zipper front with sleeve details
SHEATH DRESS fabric blocking with seam details
TULIP SKIRT seam details with front slit
TAILORED SHORTS center back invisible zipper closure with cuffed hem
Motion
29
PAPER-LIKE
Akris
Rag & Bone
Holly Fulton
Hermès
Issey Miyake
Lightly textured tone-on-tone motifs are precise and delicate. Clothes make subtle suggestions that fade into the background rather than big statements. Yet within this subdued look, there is nowhere to hide.
30
Motion
SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT flowy sleeves with invisible closure
PRINTED CARDIGAN long sleeves with draped front
ELONGATED VEST side-strap closure with pockets
QUILT PATTERN SHORTS back zip closure with belt CROPPED TROUSERS textural print with pockets and stitching Motion
31
SIMPLE SCULPTURES
Loewe
Salvatore Ferragamo
Pringle of Scotland
Cividini
Peter Som
A quiet textural and dimensional appeal turns simple silhouettes into sculpture. It’s a welcome surprise to easy slip-on and separate pieces.
32
Motion
A-LINE DRESS halter neck with tight accordion pleat
CROPPED SHELL fitted bodice with flowy bottom
BALLERINA DRESS body-con top with full pleated skirt
STRUCTURED SHORTS double-stitched pockets
TRUMPET MAXI SKIRT tie-waist belt with pleats Motion
33
SHEER SHIRTING
Cristiano Burani
Wes Gordon
Bottega Veneta
Margaret Howell
Haider Ackermann
The shirt: an item often borrowed from the boys gets polished through sheer delicateness and an ultra-fine hand, reminiscent of movement and grace.
34
Motion
TUNIC SHIRT half placket with high/low hem
EASY SHIRT pull-on with mandarin collar
TROUSER flair leg with belt
WOVEN JUMPSUIT short sleeves with belt and wide leg TROUSER tapered leg with shadow plaid Motion
35
GOSSAMER THREADS
Stella McCartney
Hermès
Yigal Azrouël
Antonio Berardi
Akris
Life may not all always be breezy but that doesn’t mean clothes shouldn’t be. Effortlessness and fluidity are a notion that carries into ethereal looks. They’re sexy and feminine without trying too hard.
36
Motion
OFF-THE-SHOULDER TOP elasticized top with swing
DRAPED TUNIC DRESS scoop neck with soft drape
DRAPED DRESS princess seam with side dart ETHEREAL SKIRT ruching with front drape piece CULLOTTE easy style with wide-leg silhouette
Motion
37
EASE & SPORT
38
Motion
Richard Nicoll
Yigal AzrouĂŤl
Rag & Bone
Christopher Raeburn
Joseph
A strong female bent gives traditional activewear pieces their signature and pushes once-overlooked styles forward to make a statement.
SWEATSHIRT DRESS raglan sleeve with rib details at cuff and hem
SWEATPANT JOGGER easy-fit style with drawstring pull
TANK DRESS maxi length with scoop neck SPORTS BRA & SHORT SET halter neck top with highwaisted short Motion
39
LIFEWEAR
Rag & Bone
Haider Ackermann
Organic by John Patrick
Organic by John Patrick
Rag & Bone
As activewear turns to lifewear, the focus is on less pretense and more precision. A pared-down take on looks makes them extravagantly plain and yet comfortable and subdued––perfect for everyday.
40
Motion
ATHLETIC TANK V-NECK TEE
racerback with high/low hem
cap sleeves and chest pocket
ZIP-UP HOODIE ribbed details at hem and cuff with kangaroo pockets
SWEATPANTS faux button details and high cuffs
FLOWY SHORT asymmetrical hem with elastic waistband
Motion
41
SIMPLE HARMONY
Daks
Ermanno Scervino
Hermès
David Tlale
Bottega Veneta
The modern man dons a mix of sculptural and textured silhouettes with sheer and flowy fashions, emphasizing the body and its movement.
42
Motion
DRESS SHIRT shoulder yoke with concealed placket TUNIC TEE longer length and sleeveless
SILK JOGGER loose-fit joggers with tight ankle cuff
SUIT SHORTS RAIN JACKET drawstring hood with patch pockets
front-stitched seams
Motion
43
Chalky neutrals accented with pale cools and charcoal grays. Feminine touches applied to active-inspired pieces create newness.
44
Motion
A C C E S S ORIE S
Perforation, delicate texture, metal accents and transparency.
Motion
45
Suiting emerges in new lighter neutrals on the street for a tranquil and yet still composed look. Delicate surfaces give a nice sense of dimension to separates adding great visual texture.
S T R E E T ST YL E CITY DRESSING
DELICATE TEXTURE
46
Motion
Sheer touches. Contemporary dancer. Delicate fineness.
ETHEREAL & SHEER
DANCER OFF-DUTY
Motion
47
BOUQUET A modern return to ladylike class.
48
Bouquet
BOUQUET Christian Dior’s post-war New Look brought lavish feminine style to the vanguard with its nipped-in waists and full skirts. It was endorsed by the premiere first ladies of the 1950s, making it the silhouette of choice for the well-dressed. It continues be the choice of the well-heeled, attending afternoon tea in BOUQUET-filled gardens, due to its complementary curves and polished but never over-the-top appeal. A return to this ladylike chic means a return to A-line skirts, button-down blouses, matching sets, weekend gingham, playful naivety, femininity and even some old school glamour. REDOLENT 25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
TEA PARLOR
50-57
58-63
64-65
REDOLENT
TEA PARLOR
MENSWEAR
Bouquet
49
LADIES WHO LUNCH
Moschino
Emanuel Ungaro
Carolina Herrera
Altuzarra
Chanel
Ladies attend luncheons in their Sunday best. Modern couture-worthy suits, that even the old-fashioned lady would love, set the pace for afternoon affairs.
50
Bouquet
BOLERO JACKET collarless with pocket details
JUMPSUIT strapless corset top with wide pant
SKIRT SUIT shaped jacket with tie waist and pencil skirt
SHEATH DRESS sleeveless with side pockets Bouquet
51
VOLUME STATEMENTS
52
Bouquet
Prada
Dsquared2
Michael Kors
Missoni
Honor
Alice + Olivia
Andrew Gn
Eye-catching prints and styles make ball gown skirt silhouettes the biggest statement for spring. They’re vibrant, fresh and beautifully feminine.
CAP SLEEVE BLOUSE pullover with elastic waist
DROP-WAIST SKIRT folded and pleated
SHELL TOP DRESS boat neck with princess seam
BALLGOWN SKIRT gathered waist with bow front detail Bouquet
53
COCKTAIL HOUR
54
Bouquet
Oscar De La Renta
Monique Lhuillier
Lela Rose
Blumarine
Aigner
Intricate ornamentation, embroidery and rich fabrications mixed with a fluency in flounce and fit & flare shapes feel cloying and yet defiantly ladylike. Evening cocktail looks break into a new genre, as they become daytime staples.
FIT & FLARE DRESS sheer overlay with placed embellishment deco
PLEATED DRESS sunray pleats with slim belt at waist
MAXI DRESS tee top with A-line skirt
CUTOUT DRESS shell top with full pleated skirt Bouquet
55
BEAU MONDE BLOOMS
Thom Browne
Burberry Prorsum
Giambattista Valli
Gucci
Lie Sangbong
While florals for spring are often a bit clichÊ, the new exotic flair they’re currently bringing is reminiscent of a very fancy and glamorous garden that only the beau monde would experience in the English summertime.
56
Bouquet
TIE NECK BLOUSE
BOXY JACKET
bishop sleeve with gathered shoulders
3/4 sleeves with spread collar
SHIRTWAIST DRESS puffed sleeve with self belted waist A-LINE SKIRT box pleat front with top stitch details
PENCIL SKIRT double layer with front pleats
Bouquet
57
WEEKEND PICNIC
Oscar De La Renta
I’m Isola Marras
Diane von Furstenberg
Marni Creatures of Comfort
Altuzarra
Lazy afternoons spent lounging in the sun are equated with gingham and easygoing casual looks. The weekend gets a romantic flash of quirky charm.
58
Bouquet
DENIM JACKET binding details with center front button closure
MATCH PLAY SET cropped T-body with highwaisted front short
SHIRTWAIST DRESS center front button closure with tie-waist belt
HALTER SWEETHEART DRESS corset waist with zipper front and tiered hem
SUMMER SHORT pleated with binding details Bouquet
59
Alberta Ferretti
LAVISH SURFACE
Tess Giberson
Oscar De La Renta
H by Hakaan Yildirim
Michael Kors
AppliquĂŠs, laser cut and crochet details add a cheerful and lighthearted decadence to sportswear separates. Happiness can certainly lie in fun femininity.
60
Bouquet
EMBELLISHED TEE chiffon trim with floral appliqué CHIFFON BLOUSE sequin collar with satin cuffs and concealed closure
TWO-PIECE DRESS shell tank top & full short with mesh and appliqué
FULL SKIRT
PLEATED SKIRT
eyelet and overembellished
drop-waist yoke with box/ knife pleat front Bouquet
61
PLAYFUL PIN-UP
Nanette Lepore
Michael Kors
Emilia Wickstead
Custo Barcelona
Cristiano Burani
Vintage bombshell-inspired swimwear is playful, curvaceous and steeped in sex appeal. And with the subtle infusion of retro high-waisted cuts and contemporary prints, the looks become ultra-modern for hot holiday weekends.
62
Bouquet
BLAZER
TWO-PIECE SWIM SUIT
cropped jacket with 3/4 sleeve and front pockets
tie-neck and back top with side bow bottom
SUMMER WINDBREAKER short sleeves with zip-front and kangaroo pocket
SHORTS high-waisted with belt ROMPER halter neck with corset waist Bouquet
63
MR. FLORA
64
Bouquet
Richard Nicoll
Kenzo
Etro
Ermenegildo Zegna
Burberry Prorsum
Bold and unconventional, the idea of reinventing classic suits with the help of modern blooming prints is set to finally bring together traditional tailoring with the best of floral statements for a dramatically playful aesthetic.
LONG-SLEEVE SHIRT oversized patch pocket with placed print
SHORT-SLEEVE SHIRT button down with flat pocket and flap
SLIM TROUSERS flat front with extended waistband
SUIT SHORTS
BLAZER
yarn-dye knee-length with cuff
printed facing with curved front Bouquet
65
Fresh blooming hues pair with opulent embellishments and girly, playful silhouettes. Floral appliquĂŠs and gingham accents reinforce the feeling of ladylike dressing.
66
Bouquet
A C C E S S ORIE S
Girly hairpieces, playful prints and rich shine.
Bouquet
67
Ladylike and feminine flair mix with garden deco looks fit for an afternoon affair. A modern jetset feeling is seen even in casual looks.
S T R E E T ST YL E HIGH TEA
FIT & FLARE
68
Bouquet
Girly and naive. Exotic garden. Charming fun.
LAZY AFTERNOON
GLAM BOTANICS
Bouquet
69
INNATE A modern United Nations of international personality and energy.
70
Innate
INNATE No need for a well-stamped passport to get a sense of world citizenship, as the global trail meets the ‘70s-loving bohemian. It’s all about embracing the fun and funky art vibe of exoticism and a sense of adventure. From Africa to Latin America, styles are inspired by local dress, adopting exotic embellishment, rich embroidery and vibrant prints and graphics to match an INNATE tribal beat. Modernized versions of multiculturalism and rich history are evident through the new execution of global appeal. BEAT 37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
ROOT
72-22
78-85
86-87
BEAT
ROOT
MENSWEAR
Innate
71
BOHO NOUVEAU
Libertine
Roberto Cavalli
Blugirl
House of Holland
Custo Barcelona
Bold eclectic digital prints and the exotic fare of beaded and dangling embellishment create a new hippie chic. A common denominator of cultural mixing crafts the new bohemian sensibility.
72
Innate
PEASENT BLOUSE smock neck with tie closure HALTER TOP ribbed with appliquĂŠ and overlock hem
HIPPIE COAT fringe edges with embellished front
PATCHWORK MOTO
MAXI SKIRT print block and multi-tiered
leather collar and cuffs with ribbed waist Innate
73
GLOBAL TOKENS
Gucci
Valentino
Etro
Dries Van Noten
Prada
Souvenirs from a tour of the continents––colorful batik, geometric ethnic prints and crafted patchwork combine in a smorgasbord of global, hinting at both folklore and tribal vivacity.
74
Innate
SLEEVELESS BLOUSE raw sleeves and hem with print panel
VEST printed body with a scalloped edge and decorative tassels
MAXI DRESS yoke halter neckline with printed hem FLOWY SHORTS zipper front easy body with pockets
TUCKED SKIRT full skirt with side tuck detail Innate
75
HERITAGE STRIPES
Tory Burch Giambattista Valli
Richard Chai
Dries van Noten
Hermès
Stripes colored in the hues of root vegetables are rustic and even rich in earthly luster. Crafted elements add a modern take on once traditional motifs.
76
Innate
LONG-SLEEVE TEE striped fitted body with fringe neckline
SACK DRESS easy body with yoke block print PENCIL SKIRT striped body-con style
BELL BOTTOM SUIT ‘70s slim jacket with dropwaist bell bottom trousers Innate
77
ART MIX
Tracy Reese
Stella Jean
Peter Pilotto
Thakoon
Custo Barcelona
Artistic and illustrative prints mix together on simple shapes for a gutsier take on tribal motifs. Explosive allover novelty themes work well with stripes and geos.
78
Innate
CROPPED SHIRT printed sleeves and pocket details
KIMONO JACKET wrap body with self-tie obi sash
TUNIC easy print blocked tee dress
WALKING SHORTS printed with gathered waist FIT & FLARE DRESS knit shell with center front pleat skirt Innate
79
DIGITAL NATIVE
Jeremy Scott
DKNY
Fyodor Golan
Stella Jean
Ostwald Helgason
Optimistic and colorful multicultural prints are high-impact and add a new playful pop art-like spirit to tribal graphics. From brightly decorated country scenes to whimsical stripes, the classics get an infusion of avant-garde.
80
Innate
BLOUSON JACKET zipper-front with printed patch pocket
2-FER TOP drop shoulder with fabric blocking
JUMPSUIT sleeveless V-neck top with slim bottom
KNIT DRESS
PRINTED TROUSER
deep V-neck with center front slit and top stitching
high-waisted and easy fit Innate
81
WORLD LEISURE
David Tlale
Stella Jean
Harare
Jeremy Scott
Dsquared2
An eccentric mix and match of prints and patterns on sets create a great visual blast for silhouettes with a comfortable, if not athletic, undertone.
82
Innate
LAYERED TEE CROPPED SHIRT
cropped with slash neckline, and ribbed sleeves and hem
flare sleeve with tie waist
BICYCLE SHORT TWO-PIECE KNIT DRESS
high-waisted body-con pull-on
shell top and pencil skirt with elastic waist and tiered hem
HAREM PANTS elastic waistband with relaxed leg
Innate
83
EXOTIC HIDEAWAY
Mara Hoffman
Dries van Noten
Laurel DeWitt
Harare
A Detacher
Hankering for an escapist antidote, global travelers set out in serene caftans and graceful tunics in light and free-spirited shades.
84
Innate
TANK DRESS grossgrain tie-waist with apron wrap
ASYMMETRICAL TEE DRESS kimono and tee blocked body
RESORT SET bandeou top and palazzo pants with tie and tassels
WRAP SKIRT CAFTAN TEE printed easy body with split neck
pleated front with contrast waistband
Innate
85
VIVID GATHERER
86
Innate
Walter Van Beirendonck
Vivienne Westwood
Paul Smith
A Sauvage
Julien David
The pages of National Geographic get a digital makeover with a new take on graphics, embroidery and ethnicinspired prints and patterns.
SLEEVELESS TUNIC V-neck, kangaroo pocket with hood
SHIRTING oversized with fabric blocked sleeves and stitched-down pocket
SAFARI PANT elastic waistband with front cargo pockets
HYBRID SHORTS exposed zipper with drop rise
SAFARI JACKET epaulet with utility pockets Innate
87
A rich palette and eclectic mixture of materials. Tribal details and silhouettes make a New Age statement on a global perspective.
88
Innate
A C C E S S ORIE S
Digital prints and skins, ethnic patterns, feathers and fringe.
Innate
89
Tribal prints see themselves interpreted in new digital, art pop and traditional versions. Patterns and ideas from cultures far and wide look modern on Western garments.
S T R E E T ST YL E ETHNIC DIGITAL
STREET ART GRAPHICS
90
Innate
Modern tribal. Eclectic prints. Traditional flair.
PRINT MIXING
TRADITIONAL TRIBE
Innate
91
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