Dear Client, Welcome to Fall 2015, “Perfecting the Menswear Paradigm.” Through our multi-media presentation, we examine how the menswear industry is continuing to change and evolve. There is a new attitude around a man’s individuality, and the way he views his personal style. Our menswear team has identified three big picture influences that will have an impact on Fall 2015: The Casual Continuum, The Performance Principle and Game of Trends. This compilation handout will be your recap to the big ideas, trend-right items and marketing innovation for the season ahead. As always, our team is available to spend time with you in Las Vegas and continue the conversation after the shows. Thank you for joining us and here’s to a wonderful Las Vegas trade shows week.
Sincerely,
Patty Leto Patty Leto
Senior Vice President Merchandising, Menswear
The menswear industry has always been a stable landscape, seldom subject to seismic shifts. And yet the business is constantly changing and evolving. The male consumer adopts, accepts and perfects his personal style based on his lifestyle, career, leisure pursuits and goals. The foundation of tradition that drove growth during the end of the last decade has now been replaced with a modern attitude around individuality. For Fall 2015, the menswear paradigm is being perfected to reflect the evolutionary momentum in the industry, the continuum of casual, the expectation of innovative performance and an understanding that appropriate trends heighten a man’s self-expression.
The casualization of menswear continues to evolve. After several decades of dressing-down, relaxed rules, and quiet revolution, menswear has finally arrived at a perfect balance. Casual clothing, the backbone of most male wardrobes, has been elevated to function for virtually every aspect of life (like dress shoes rather than sneakers or a velvet jacket with those ubiquitous jeans). But neither is it too premeditated and over-styled. It’s real. It’s useful. The influence of streetwear is still apparent and cross-purpose activewear infiltrates every man’s wardrobe. In fact, everyman, the average guy, has now perfected his own concept of shopping for style and how he builds it on or around the core of basic items with staying power.
Dressing-Down versus Dressing-Up • Useful is the New Cool • Street Still a Major Influence • Cross-Purpose Activewear • Core Basics with Staying Power
Refined Knit Dressing • Statement Sweaters • The Turtleneck • Mixed Media & Colorblocking • Refined Utility • Plaids & Stripes • The Sportcoat & The Vest • Dressed-Up Denim • Refined Casual Pants •
Missoni Ben Sherman
Iceberg
Coach Maker & Co.
Grayers
Barbour Bills Khakis
Updated Outerwear • Backpacks, Hats, Gloves, Hosiery & Boots
Marketing Refined: Making His Casual Side Evolve • Contemporary Emerges: Remerchandising the Floor •
Vince
Sandro
COS
Lifestyle Campaigns: Lived-in Attitudes • Best in Class: Vince
5
Performance was once limited to true activewear. It meant freedom to move, comfort under grueling conditions and design to enhance physicality. Performance still delivers those qualities, but now the demand for performance is affecting every facet of menswear. The new universal performance syndrome is a reflection of the craving for technology that is globally driving consumerism. There is a growing expectation for heightened performance in textiles with special functionality, for design that is relevant to real-life needs, and for recognition that technology is the most exciting aspect of life in the 21st century.
Past Performance Restricted to Activewear • Present Performance Continuation • Performance Across the Board • Technological Performance Revolution
Colorblocking • Mesh • Numbers Game • Prints • Zippers • Joggers • Tech Tailored • Functional Outerwear •
Birvin Uniform
Paul Smith
Maharishi
Christopher Raeburn Apple
American Tech
Dirk Bikkembergs MA. Strum
Wearable Tech • Tech Bags • Sneakers
Under Armour
Burberry
Moncler
Tech at Retail • Active and Urban Merge • Global Players in Performance • Best in Class: Under Armour
7
A new season brings with it a sense of excitement, change and novelty. It is the launchpad for trends, presenting concepts and even a bit of fantasy. The menswear industry now utilizes the hype generated by runway shows and presentations as well as impressive vendor venues to build interest. But wait, do real men buy into trends? Yes, but only if they are relevant to real life and if they break down to an item rather than a costume: rugged outdoorsmen, range riders, old money scions, hot rockers, power brokers and super-jocks. A quantum leap from most men’s real lives, but there’s a bit of Walter Mitty in every man and the game of trends is a win-win.
Michael Shannon
Saint Laurent
Trend Game of Great Outdoors • Trend Game of Rockin’ Rebel • Trend Game of Super Hero • Items Make Trends Real
Dehen 1920
Baartman and Siegel
Diesel Black Gold
Andrea Crews Vie+Riche
Embellish
Dsquared2 True Grit
Outdoorsmen • Rockers • Hardcore Streetwear • Geo-Blocking • Heritage/Prep • Extreme Tailored
Zara
H&M
Topman
The Trendy Face of Designers and Brands • Trending Up in Menswear • Fast Fashion Fanatics • Best in Class: Zara
9
G R AP H IC TE E S
Updated License
Streetwear-Inspired
Outdoor Lifestyle
Hybrid Apparel
Hybrid Apparel
Field & Stream/Bernette
TEX TUR E D KN IT TO P S
Burnout Hoodie Retrofit/Michael Gerald Ltd.
Thermal Henley Tailor Vintage
Microfleece Full-Zip Field & Stream/Bernette
S W E ATE R S
Holiday Novelty
Hoodie
Updated Nordic/Fair Isle
Retrofit/Michael Gerald Ltd.
Retrofit/Michael Gerald Ltd.
Tricot St. Raphael/Bernette
UPDAT E D WOVE N S H IRTS
Blocking
Burnout Plaid
Hooded
Ocean Current
Ocean Current
Unionbay
THE L AY E R IN G P IEC E
Vest Just Keep Livin’/Grand National Apparel
Knit Sportcoat Tallia/Peerless Clothing
Shirt Jacket Weatherproof Vintage
JOG G E R S
Quilted
Utility
Printed
EPTM
Lazer
Chor/KC New York
11
NON-DE N IM BOTTO MS
5-Pocket
Lined
Cargo
Unionbay
Field & Stream/Bernette
Tailor Vintage
DENI M BOTTO MS
Distressed
Moto
Gray
Unionbay
DKNY Jeans
Axel Brand/Jade Marketing
AC TIVE W E AR
1/4-Zip Raglan
Short Over Megging
Mixed Media Hoodie
Free Country
M. Hidary
Unionbay
O UTE RW E AR
Midweight
Parka
Soft Shell
ZX Black
Noize
Zero Xposur
ACC E S S OR IE S
Printed Cap Altru
Colorblocked Backpack Unified Accessories
Patterned Hat & Scarf Hat: Muk Luks/Reliable of Milwaukee | Scarf: FRAAS
13
David Wolfe Creative Director David is one of the fashion industry’s most quoted authorities, having earned international credentials as a fashion, color and trend forecaster. His expertise and entertaining personality keep David in demand as a public speaker and lecturer. Prior to joining the company in 1990, he spent 10 years at The Fashion Service, a trend-forecasting service he founded and managed. He was previously Creative Director at I.M. International, one of the world’s first fashion forecasting and consulting firms.
Tim Bess Fashion Trend Analyst, Menswear Tim Bess is The Doneger Group’s Men’s Fashion/Trend Analyst. In this role, Tim researches and analyzes trends in the men’s business, with particular focus on the more directional business categories. In addition, Tim oversees the company’s market coverage and client servicing for men’s contemporary, identifying key items and merchandising issues each season. Tim joined The Doneger Group in 2004. Previously, Tim held positions at Sean John and Rocawear.
Tom Julian Men’s Fashion Director Tom joined The Doneger Group in 2013 as the Director of Strategic Business Development and was named Men’s Fashion Director in 2014. He is responsible for developing and implementing potential growth opportunities for the company as well as collaborating with the organization’s management team on goals and objectives. Before joining The Doneger Group, Tom founded his own company, the Tom Julian Group, in 2008, where he and his team created innovation solutions for global brands and retailers. Prior to that, Tom worked for leading advertising agencies including Fallon Worldwide and McCann Erickson. His menswear experience includes Fashion Director roles for both MAGIC and the Men’s Fashion Association. He is an author of two men’s style books.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 • 212.564.1266 • www.doneger.com Patty Leto Senior Vice President Merchandising 212-560-3690 pleto@doneger.com Tom Julian Men’s Fashion Director 212-560-3755 tjulian@doneger.com Tim Bess Men’s Fashion Trend Analyst 212-560-3722 tbess@doneger.com
Allison Levy Market Analyst Men’s Tailored, Dress Furnishings & Accessories 212-560-3810 alevy@doneger.com
Wendy Gold Market Analyst Boys 4-20, Kids Sleepwear & Accessories 212-560-3818 wgold@doneger.com
Sharon Hausner Market Analyst Sportswear, Loungewear & Basics 212-560-3828 shausner@doneger.com
Lauren Hirschhorn Assistant Market Analyst Childrenswear & Menswear 212-560-3823 lhirschhorn@doneger.com
Melissa Peterson Market Analyst Young Men’s 212-560-3813 mpeterson@doneger.com
Amanda Rand Assistant Market Analyst Childrenswear & Menswear 212-560-3821 arand@doneger.com
110 E. 9th Street, Suite A525, Los Angeles, CA 90079 • 213.627.5921 • www.directiveswest.com Shelda Hartwell-Hale Vice President Merchandising 213-362-0957 shelda@directiveswest.com
Rachael Robbins Kachko Merchandise Manager Contemporary Sportswear & Young Men’s 213-362-0959 rachael@directiveswest.com
Debbie Waggener Merchandise Manager Girls & Boys 8-20 213-362-0969 debbie@directiveswest.com