Design by LAUREN ULLMANN Illustrations by HANNAH KIMMERLE Runway images courtesy of firstview.com Doneger Creative Services is a division of The Doneger Group Š Copyright 2015 by Henry Doneger Associates, Inc. 463 Seventh Avenue, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018 USA All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher
As we begin this latest edition of Beauty Mark, it is important to reflect on what has been driving business of late – skin care, prestige shampoo and interestingly, eyebrow makeup (up 32% according to the NPD Group). The first two seem logical enough, the last is coming off of a combination of Cara Delevingne, runway, vlogger and Instagram influences. Delivering deeper, full brows make everything look up, create a more youthful appearance and often allow for the use of less makeup. Like lipstick, they impart a meticulously groomed appearance – a lot of bang for the brow. What is also interesting is it isn’t always a one product solution. Watch vloggers experiment with endless combinations of pencils, powders and gels, not to mention brushes, tweezers and brow growth formulas, all of which create an opportunity for multiple sales. Contouring is similar. We first began talking about it five years ago and it still has not reached its full potential. The importance is in the ability to spot that next seemingly niche focus, opportunity, innovation or lifestyle switch that could engage the consumer, like the convergence of beauty and wellness. That is where Doneger Creative Services comes in to support with in-depth research. Our themes are backed by sociocultural issues as well as what we see trending in color, materials and items. For Fall/Winter 2016-17, we see a multigenerational viewpoint, with grown-ups enjoying a youthful attitude and taking forward-thinking advice from Gen Z. Think about the current approach to beauty: there is the social media influenced beginner who wants to hoard and collect cosmetics, and the maturing ageless consumer who is interested in paring down. Either way, customer centricity and experience is paramount. Speaking of future, Aeon looks to technical materials and finishes in modern colors and metallics. Continuing where Element left off last season, in Maker we see the evolution of a gender-bending approach that renews the neutral palette and application, while also advancing with rustic colors and crafty techniques. Exhibit looks at our fascination with Pop Art and commercialism, bringing in retro candy coated lips along with bold pops of color for face and packaging. In Memento, East and West continue to converge with gilded treatments and exotic enhancements. Hybridization and individualization is the wave of the future. One of our goals at Doneger Creative Services is to help you to pick what is relevant to your audience. We like to partner with our clients, utilizing our services as a tool to pinpoint ideas for products and merchandising/ marketing. We also welcome custom tailored projects and presentations for in-house, accounts or as support for your sales force. For further details, please contact Thomas J. Burns at 212-560-3707 and tburns@doneger.com.
JAMIE ROSS Creative Director
As technology and alternative realities come to the forefront of our everyday lives, the future is here and now. On the INFINITY side, a palate cleanser including helium, skylight and charcoal mixes with lustrous silver. From a gleaming hint of liner on the lids to polished packaging, this modern metal offers streamlined polish. Light charged blues enhance eyes with an otherworldly glow. CYBERNATION looks to artificial colors and the way they merge together, as well as the optic purity of white.
Giorgio Armani
FUTURE TENSE From packaging to product, we imagine a streamlined new vision. FASHION High-tech fabrications allow for new shapes that are still lightweight. Sportswear appears with active undertones spun with synthetic and performance details. Holographic, rainbow hues and space age silvers add dimension to design. Hand-friendly clutches and ergonomic/ molded footwear designs are ready for life on the go. BEAUTY Sleek and speedy, silver tones work fast to create a futuristic look for the eyes. Skylight blues are far from retro, paired with bold brows and neutral faces. Artificial and unusual seasonal shades meld and merge on the face in graphic formations. Watch for optic white to highlight the eyes in either matte opaque or sheer formulations. Hair is equally streamlined or textured for contrast. PACKAGING Silver and aluminum finishes, from molten to strict geometry. Faceted, textured and molded plastics. Translucent looks/embellishments, Lucite and plexiglass. Holographics give styles a state-of-the-art edge. Rainbow hues and 3-D qualities add dimension to design: 3-D geos, pixelated nebulas and conversational cosmos prints.
Carven
The fastest way to go future-forward in the blink of an eye is silver. A simple stroke of silver liner against a pared down face is the epitome of modern. For a more full-on effect, silver cream or powder shadow can be worked over the lid and higher as a singular statement.
Noon by Noor
Song Jung Wan
A slice of skylight blue continues as an eye-catching option for fall. As with true silver, it looks current paired with a simplified face, although strong brows provide a good counterbalance to its delicacy. Applications work color through the crease as a corner highlight, as well as traced under the lower lid.
Chalayan
Lea Peckre
Chalayan
The CYBERNATION palette offers a range of almost artificial colors to play uniquely into the fall/winter season. Besides considering the interplay of color—for example, a more intense cyberlight blue # F16-11 paired with a pink lip (3761)—this trend introduces bright color in a matchy-matchy way. Think of multitasking cream and liquid formulations. For marketing purposes, exaggerated crescent and V-formations spotlight bone structure and facial features in a new way.
Concept Korea
Continuing where ELEMENT left off for spring/summer, white transcends seasons and moods and moves easily into AEON in graphic formations. Optic, almost chalky white finishes look clean worked in brush stroke applications on the lid for dramatic effect. For a more commercial approach, sheer white shadows highlight eyes, lid to brow, and can be paired with a tight liner effect to maintain a minimalist approach.
Sacai
Kenzo
Sacai
Kenzo
The numbers above reference the DCS Fall/Winter 2016-17 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
A very different take on the season, and continuing where we left off with the lo-fi approach of Element from spring/summer, we see the evolution of a gender-bending neutralized palette in the DWELL portion of the theme. Strong contouring, smoked eyes and masculinized brows create a new take on the nude face. For those who crave more color, BESPOKE looks to industrialized hues and more crafty multitone applications.
Nicholas K
Creatures of the Wind
Etro
Jason Wu
Marni
FEEL GOOD Being who you are—celebrate androgyny and a refined rustic aesthetic. FASHION Soft tailoring is seen in menswear fabrications reinvented for women in warm colors and luxe hands. With a nod to cocooned living and handcrafts, easy knits are the new casual necessity. Brushed, tactile and rich fibers lend a natural quality and sophistication. Genderless are chic with subtle textures and redefined proportions. Rugged patchwork, lacing and fur elevate accessories. BEAUTY Modern day Frida Kahlo lookalikes sport gender-bending brows and eyes smoked out in earthy browns and flint grays. The continuing development of contouring looks to slightly masculinized faces with an emphasis on strong bone structure. As another approach, the appreciation of artistry looks to multihued applications and inviting spicy reds. Loosely waved and textured hair adds to the overall casual effect, while more strictly slicked and pulled back looks complete the male/female transformation. PACKAGING Soft leather and suede-like surfaces. Oxidized and industrial metals. Wood grains and textures, as well as crates and weathered looks. Free-form pottery. Fur and nubby treatments. Irregular patched and pieced effects that appear hand-done. Threadbare upholstery and carpeting. Mini graphics and crafted geometrics.
Collina Strada
Marni
Fendi
We see renewed interest in updating smoky browned out eyes with comforting shades, including F16-16, 17 and 18. Powder applications reaching the brow and encircling the eye create subtle drama and definition. For brows, more is more for a casual and androgynous approach. Bone-defining contouring further enhances the effect. For more drama, creamy smoke sticks, chubbies and pencils can be used to create graphic shapes.
Richard Chai
Derek Lam
Elie Saab
Antonio Marras
Complementing the warm browns and adding another level of definition are the grays, including F16-13, 14 and 15. They are beautiful in lighter shades in combination with the browns, subtly blended so the browns are on the outside of the upper and lower lids and the grays are closer to the nose. Lids are also shaded with browns, tracing the lash line and progressing into the grays for the lid and crease. Further intensity can be created with a combination of pencil and powder in the mid to dark flint shades.
Derek Lam
Elie Saab
Tome
Elie Saab
For a more colorful approach, industrialized color looks to crafty effects. Less hard edged, boldly lined next-morning tough chic eyes are rendered commercial in shades of teal, green and rust. Speaking of rust, these tones, along with goldenrod, work in combination to alluring effect and with a slight retro nod. OmbrĂŠ and crafty nail styling continue to put an emphasis on artisan techniques.
Jasper Conran
Christian Siriano
Karen Walker
Christian Siriano
As you will see throughout the remaining themes, red lips continue to make an impact. Within the MAKER theme, they are more rusted in tone. Look to them to impart a stained quality and enhance lip fullness, against a perfected complexion and groomed brows. Oxidized, industrial and worn tube packaging offers novelty with a casual luxe feel.
Julien David
Isa Arfen
Helen Yarmak
Helen Yarmak
Lanvin
Veronique Branquinho
Marni
Fendi The numbers above reference the DCS Fall/Winter 2016-17 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
Here we look at commercialism through a Pop Art lens with a much needed dose of humor. Artful expression is no longer restricted to museum walls, and makes its way onto faces, nails and hair. In LYRICAL, we see soft colors focusing on a contrast of textures, with matte and glossy mixed together. There is a retro feel that sees the return of couture-like pale matte lipstick that appeals to the modern lady. SIGNAGE cannot be ignored, with youthful effects for the eyes, and graphic uses of color that take cues from underground clubs and disco dolls. Even predictable and commercial product can be updated with bold aesthetics in packaging.
Delpozo
Kate Spade
LIFE IMITATES ART We look at cosmetics and beauty as child’s play and throw caution to the wind with fun expressive effects. FASHION Quirky couture style gets updated via fabric technology. Exaggerated weaves and novelty yarns make for a humorous ode to Chanel. Happiness is contagious with active, artificial and surreal styling that make fabrics whimsical and girly. Watch for colorful denim, corduroy and novelty prints. Messages and fun mixed materials make for accessories that spell it out loudly. BEAUTY Playful and imaginative, beauty provides the fun factor. Slickedover powdered eyes mix with stained and glossy lips. Ladylike retro lipsticks harken back to the pale pinks and peaches of yesterday with rich, matte opaque finishes, making them newly modern. Bold acrylic brights make their way onto lids in large and small doses. Graphic applications for lips, cheeks, eyes and nails look to counter culture and the disco era. Updated geometric Sassoon cuts, color tinged dying techniques and tongue-in-cheek updos liven up the hair scene. Nails revel in pop art imagery and creative geometry. PACKAGING Kitschy Pop Art, graphics and messages. Neon lighting effects. Recycled metals resembling aluminum cans. Acrylic, Perspex and Lucite in clear and bright shades. Purposely overscaled or underscaled à la Alice in Wonderland. Comic and cartoon-inspired graphics focus on American style. Simplified stripes and blocks. Unlikely color pairings create impact.
Cotton candy and couture mix together for a surprising play on soft textures. Chalky powdered eye shades are enlivened by slick overlays. Look to new packaging combinations that allow for both finishes in one compact. Their perfect counterpart is stained and glossy lips that look carefree and youthful.
Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci
Modern-day heroines revel in the rediscovery of pale pink and peach lips. Matte opaque textures, improved by today’s formulation technologies, offer a novel lip look. Barely shaded eyes, groomed arches, a touch of blush and curled/mascaraed lashes complete the overall effect. Retro packaging can also spotlight the new couture class.
Miu Miu
Miu Miu
Prada
Prada
Twiggy gets a Technicolor update. For a youth oriented consumer, watch for paintbox brights to make their way onto lids. Graphic shapes combine with bare eyes for modern impact, or work with black mascara and liner to further emphasize. For a more subtle approach, consider artful liners and colorful mascaras for inner corners.
Jeremy Scott
Au Jour Le Jour
Delpozo
Au Jour Le Jour
As expressive as the eyes in the previous pages, bold lips and nails refer back to underground clubs and disco days. Red and orange in super shiny or demi-matte finishes look modern alone or speak retro, paired with dramatically smoked out eyes. To balance the effect, pale complexions are de rigueur, and brows are actually downplayed or practically erased—watch for bleached brows to return in marketing campaigns.
Shrimps
Saint Laurent
The numbers above reference the DCS Fall/Winter 2016-17 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
Prada
Memories and keepsakes collected from around the globe make for a potpourri of inspiration for social occasion beauty and holiday gift giving. Less specific and costumed than previous incarnations, Eastern and Western influences continue to converge for the better and satisfy today’s wanderlust spirit. In SPIRITED, the gold riches of distant destinations find their way onto eyes and nails to decadent effect. Vivid hues of coral and magenta—F16-37 and 40—make for memorable lips. On the CEREMONY side, deep shades in cream and liquid formulations update the dark eye look. As mentioned in Maker, red lips are essential to the season, and within this theme there is opportunity for a variety of lush shades and textures. Ornamentation extends to hair with more elaborate styling and accessories.
Bottega Veneta
Alberta Ferretti
Elisabetta Franchi
IMAGINATION AND RITUAL Take the best of inspiration from East to West. FASHION Gypsyesque embroideries mix with Asian-inspired jacquards. Superior fabric techniques remix native traditions. Kimono prints and patterns honor the Far East, particularly Japan. Rich tapestries and home furnishings highlight serious dress up. Patterned satins look to the legendary Silk Road. Gilded, bejeweled and chain laden accessories revel in excess. BEAUTY More is more, yet placement restraint makes it modern. Watch for golden accents for eyes and nails that leave an impression alone or paired with vivid coral and magenta lips. As an update to dark eyes, cream and liquid formulations allow for more playtime and encourage intense shaping. Red lips are essential to the season, and with the social/holiday theme we see opportunity for a range of shades and texture options. More elaborate hairstyles and jeweled accessories offer a polished finish. PACKAGING Patched and inlaid patterning. Lustrous satins and ornate jacquards/ brocades. Heavily jeweled and encrusted surfaces. Abstracted ethnics and geos in modern materials and spare compact shapes. Antiqued gold metals. Silken cords, tassels and embroideries. Bloomsbury cafĂŠ, Japanese kimono/screen motifs and upholstery looks. Lacquered printed treatments and porcelain effects. Obi sashes and chopsticks finish the packaging.
Alberta Ferretti
Josie Natori
YDE
Metallic gold is a reminder of the riches of exotic lands. Watch for it to appear in molten and glittery effects for eyes, either as liner, allover lid color or as a partially winged accent. Strong brows and minimal makeup keep it fresh. Gold nails also look decadent with a paired down makeup look, or as a partner to the coral and magenta lips of the following pages.
Tadashi Shoji
Tadashi Shoji
Naeem Khan
Temperley London
YDE
For the festive effect, we see vivid shades of magenta and coral—F16-37 and 40—in creamy, highly pigmented formulas that create an unapologetically full pout. Watch for these to pair with a strong lash and brow message for balance. The gold nails of the previous pages add the perfect finishing touch.
Nanette Lepore
Nanette Lepore
Nanette Lepore
As an update to dark eyes, cream and liquid formulations allow for more playtime and encourage intense shaping. Technological advances make the need for shadow bases obsolete and often water resistant. Look to develop rich plum, green, burgundy, brown and navy from the Ceremony range. In addition, these formulas can multitask as liners depending on the packaging format.
Dior
Dior
Dior
Pascal Millet
Cividini
Celebrating the female art of primping for social occasions, watch for red lips in all their variations to come to the forefront, signaling the party has started. Essential to the season, we see opportunity for a range of shades and texture options. Glosses, stains and demi-matte finishes are perfect for a lip focus launch where they can work solo or layered. Consider using F16-46, 43 and 47 from the Ceremony range.
Dolce and Gabbana
Blugirl
Blugirl
Nicole Miller Naeem Khan
Blugirl The numbers above reference the DCS Fall/Winter 2016-17 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
Bottega Veneta
It’s an exciting season for hair. While there are plenty of nonchalant and low-maintenance looks, the big message this season is to make a statement. Hair color has gone wild, with silvery and cotton candy tresses continuing to emerge on the runway. The bob is grown out and is being worn in various carefree styles, while androgynous crops continue to grow due to the rise of female empowerment and gender-bending interests. Style wise, both sides of the spectrum are prevalent with prim looks and tousled styles being equally directional. Braids become more rebellious and less girly with punk and renegade styling. For those interested in hair decorations, anticipate dazzling headwear to reign on the runway and street.
Mara Hoffman
Gucci
Akris
Ashen and pink locks are having an unlikely fashion moment. Allover granny-colored, pink-dipped ends and face faming gray lights are emerging as stylish young women
Zero Maria Cornejo
Nicholas K
Louis Vuitton
suddenly want to stand-out, looking like cotton candy or cool spinsters.
Bottega Veneta
Burberry Prorsum
Jenny Packham
The bob may have been the It style last season, but this year the lob does the job. The long bob looks natural and lived in this time around in loose, layered, twisted and
Kepner
Creatures of the Wind
ChloĂŠ
tousled combinations. Take note of looks paired with blunt and rounded fringe.
Martin Grant
Rag & Bone
Bottega Veneta
Androgyny continues to grow into a style, thanks in part to the rise of feminism: individuality and overall wisdom prevail. Short crops, pageboys and shag/mullet hybrids
John Galliano
Louis Vuitton
Emilio Pucci
are melting into neutral short hair that is gender neutral.
Bottega Veneta
Michael Kors
Gucci
Nonchalant, low volume, I woke up like this texture is just plain cool. Unlike beach waves, this rumpled yet glamorous bedhead is shiny and has a soft bend. Purposeful details like middle parts, tucked behind
Roberto Cavalli
Louis Vuitton
Cristiano Burani
the ear placement and flyways make this style unremarkable yet completely memorable.
Balenciaga
Acne Studios
Iris van Herpen
This look is not for the downtown gal. It’s all about dramatic power. Crafted for the considered uptown lady, chignons, topknots and ponytails accentuate necks and
Marc Jacobs
Oscar de la Renta
Jonathan Saunders
jawlines. Keep in mind uber polished and tight finishes.
Giorgio Armani
Erdem
Max Mara
Soft attitude seen in modern beachy faux bobs, slightly tousled chignons and half updown dos shape a romantic meets modern look. Classic styles are suddenly lived-in and
Roksanda
Tom Ford
Chanel
perfectly undone for a mix of edgy romance.
Zero Maria Cornejo
Givenchy
Custo Barcelona
Make no mistake, this season’s braids are not made for little girls. Plaits are back, but with a bad girl twist. Cool twists, woven Mohawk combinations and tight detailing dominated the runway.
Hellessy
Valentino
Palmer Harding
Watch for variations of braids mixed back to ponytails, updos and half and half styles.
Song Jung Wan
Jonathan Saunders
Emilio de la Morena
Global Asian influences continue to inspire, evident in the variations of Sumo-esque knots. From sleek and smooth to loose and undone, this updo is a strong silhouette. The
Victoria Beckham
JSong Way
Wes Gordon
styles look especially new with the addition of left out ends.
Prada
Giambattista Valli
Dolce and Gabbana
Today’s modern princess may not wear a tiara but she still rocks a glorious crown. Dazzling headwear reigned on the runway with bejeweled headphones and
HermĂŠs
Gucci
Marc by Marc Jacobs
headbands, veils and new takes on floral hair accessories.
Five thoughts to direct your development for Fall/Winter 2016-17 and beyond. Refined & Ready: The popular fashion and beauty website Refinery29 just released their list of 139 products that made the cut for their first annual Beauty Innovator Awards. Getting the R29 stamp of approval is no easy feat and being recognized creates a whole new level of buzz and sales potential. It also makes a fantastic list for sample shopping. Watch for this to inspire a disruption in business as usual. Speaking of Innovation: GCI Magazine recently posted an article titled, “Is Innovation Over?” In it, they quote professor and author Clayton Christensen who first conceived of disruptive technologies in his 1997 work, “The Innovator’s Dilemma.” As he stated, “as companies tend to innovate faster than their customers’ needs evolve, most organizations eventually end up producing products or services that are actually too sophisticated, too expensive and too complicated for many consumers in their market.” While the term is certainly overused and generalized, new ideas, processes and devices launched too early can open doors to fresh takes by other marketers, whose precision and timing may be right on. Consumer Centric: According to a Fashion Group International panel discussion overseen by Elle magazine, one in five new product launches makes it. The panel agreed that true innovation happens when you put the customer at the center of the process. Most innovation has been taking place in the makeup category, especially with greater consumer understanding/acceptance via vloggers and bloggers. The other category seeing an uptick is fragrance, creating a connection through scent with semi-customization and more craftsmanship. Watch for spices and rich woods come back into play with a rise in Middle Eastern fragrance purchasing. Experience Is Everything: As retailers try to woo consumers back to traditional counter departments, they are realizing that not only do they need to wow with the right brand line up and events, they also need to use technology to their advantage the way their online counterparts do. They need to link into purchases to see opportunities for replenishment in terms of what they have been buying, but equally as important they must tie into what they aren’t buying and should. Social Influencers: With the rise of celebrities and internet contracts with cosmetic brands, it becomes increasingly important to pick influencers who directly reflect the brand profile, not just what they could mean to sales numbers. Staying true to your DNA should yield a positive net result by truly connecting with your audience.
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