July ’15
Denim is planned as a growth opportunity moving into Spring ’16. Elevated Fabrics and washes along with the injection of color, the continued growth of fit solutions and the return to structured non-denim bottoms will play an important role. Proportion shifts are evident as we move into the season with new leg openings. Junior Plus continues as a business opportunity. Denim to non-denim planning: 75% denim/25% non-denim. Planning represents a 10-20% increase in denim against LY.
First Quarter category
long/ankle
alternative length
shorts
wardrobing
Juniors
50-55%
10-15%
20-25%
10-15%
Contemporary
65%
20-25%
0-5%
10%
category
long/ankle
alternative length
shorts
wardrobing
Juniors
10-15%
20-25%
50%
15%
Contemporary
30-35%
40%
5-10%
20%
Second Quarter
Elevated fabrics: denim takes on super soft characteristics with injection of rayon, Tencel and increased spandex for added stretch. Also look to chambray as a key fabric to maximize. Newness in wash: vintage, 3-D effects, ’70s blues, light bleach and cloud wash and a focus
Karen Walker
DENIM NOTEWORTHY
on rinse or raw denim. Details and patterns: destruction continues, belts are updated through use of straw, rope, eyelet, fringe and fabric sashes. Sailor buttons, high-waists, frayed and rolled hems, embroidery, elevated feminine trims, paint splatter, patchwork, railroad stripes and ombré/ tie-dye effects.
NON-DENIM NOTEWORTHY The big shift of the season is moving away from soft print bottoms into structure. Elevated fabrics in non-denim gain traction, moving into utility influences along with increased use of super soft twills, stretch poplin and ripstop, linen blends and Tencel. A neutral palette combined with color, mid-sherberts/pales and a pop of red adds freshness and a strong layer to denim assortments. Details and patterns: drawstring waists, cargo pockets, rolled cuffs, trouser and pork chop pockets, sailor buttons, belts, scallop hemlines, stripes, tropical and floral prints.
The Doneger Group • 463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 • Call 212.564.1266 • Fax 212.560.3699 • www.doneger.com
July ’15
SILHOUETTES TO FOCUS ON Christian Wijnants
Long • Utility: key for non-denim • Flare: new silhouette for denim • Linen beach pant: proven from LY • Destructed five-pocket skinny: growth for denim • Skinnies: key in color for Spring ’16
• Rolled hems: must-have body to maximize • Trouser: positive test results make this an important body • Boot: continues to be key for belts • Modified boyfriend: fitted body with a boyfriend aesthetic Alternative Lengths • Ankle rolled hemmed chino: preppy elevated basics return • Cropped flare: the newest shape to maximize • Wide leg crop: elevated basics return • Utility crop: key for non-denim • Release hem: must-have hem detail • Frayed hem: proven hem detail • Big cuffs: continues from contemporary market SEA
• Skinny ankle: ankle lengths gain importance Shorts • Bermuda 9”: growth opportunity based on last year’s success • Trouser: perfect for non-denim • 5-7”: continues to be key and school appropriate • Belted: updates include straw, lace, fabric, cork, rope • Utility: novelty pockets look new again • Allover crochet: update patterns and colors • Paper bag waist: easy silhouettes in lightweight fabrics • Modified boyfriend rolled hem: proven silhouettes for the indie lifestyle • Feminine detailing: new trims update last year’s success • High-waist destruction: continues into Spring ’16 in elevated washes • Rolled hem: number one hemline detail • Embroidery treatments: embroidery returns as a fresh treatment Category Expansion/Wardrobing • Jackets/vests: updated silhouettes/trims and newness • Dresses/rompers: growth category in lightweight chambray and tencel • Chambray shirts: a must for rounding out assortments • Skirts: A-line, flippy and five-pocket bodies are trending out of contemporary once again
The Doneger Group • 463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 • Call 212.564.1266 • Fax 212.560.3699 • www.doneger.com