If you are a Beauty Mark subscriber, there is great probability that you already know some of the overarching ideas and opportunities I have been harping on of late. I truly see the industry heading towards a solutionbased industry, with innovative products solving problems, as well as becoming more multi-purpose/multifunction. As forecasted and honed in on within our prior Eye On sections, we also see a growing acceptance and crossover of supplements with beauty, and the idea of ageless beauty, along with the proliferation of inside/out beauty developments. While we continue to look to the East, we are also inspired by developments within the U.S. from both economic and social media perspectives that are driving the business, along with opportunities in the emerging MINT countries (Mexico, Indonesia, Nigeria and Turkey). While some would like to think that they are above the need for trends, the beauty industry in particular needs to have a clever marketing spin, a color and packaging handle, and ultimately, a great story to lure consumers. With that in mind, Spring/Summer 2016 focuses on bringing in some of the best notions and ideas from the past into the present, and breathing new life into them. Technology obviously remains important, but concepts are not solely influenced by it, allowing a much more human component to come in, along with the desire for balance and zen. Within the introductory theme, Element, the need for simplicity is answered with the ease of creating a polished look through one or two graphic statements. Motion is all about subtlety that is delicate and neo-romantic. As we move further into spring and summer, the blooms of the season inspire more color on the face. A naïve and playful take on the tea party set, Bouquet modernizes the ladies who lunch into a Mad Hatter’s spin on application and imagery. An Afro-centric approach to summer makeup in Innate looks to application techniques and colors inspired by craft, inked tattoos, body decoration and indigenous root vegetables. As updating traditions for modern times becomes a necessity, it is our goal in Doneger Creative Services to help you to pick what is relevant to your audience. In today’s environment, it has become largely about editing and exciting, no matter the selling format. We like to partner with our clients, utilizing our services as a tool to pinpoint ideas for products, packaging and merchandising/marketing. We also welcome custom-tailored projects and presentations for in-house or accounts, or as support for your sales force. For further details, please contact Thomas J. Burns, at 212-560-3707 or tburns@doneger.com.
Jamie Ross
S p rin g / S u m m e r 2 0 1 6 Design by Lauren Ullmann. DCS illustrations by Hannah Kimmerle. Runway images courtesy of firstview.com. Doneger Creative Services is a division of The Doneger Group. Š Copyright 2014 by Henry Doneger Associates, Inc. 463 Seventh Avenue, 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018 USA All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher
As life becomes seemingly more complicated, we embrace simplicity in the sense of being able to pare down our routine and radiate a less-is-more existence. We want the ability to create a polished look with one or two graphic statements – for example, eyes and nails, or bold brows and eyes. In addition, a fresh utilitarian approach to bare or neutral comes in with new advances in pigments and formulations. Skin and skincare are paramount with texture showing through and even freckles are encouraged! Stripped down, effortless and almost completely low-fi, our zen philosophy is ironically the definition of modern cool.
M OTH ER OF P EARL
P REEN BY T HORNTON BREGAZZI
PAU L SMITH
LEA PECKR E
PR EEN BY THOR NTO N BR EG AZ Z I
O SAM AN
• Beauty Zen: Taking cues from ancient Japanese and utilitarian aesthetics to appreciate the ability to pare down to the essentials to look finished quickly. • Fashion: Japanese workwear inspiration melds with spectator styling and industrial detailing. From simple shirting to power dressing updated with Japanese lines and closures, pieces and ensembles are unquestionably current in their straightforward appeal. Even on the casual side, artisanal denim goes beyond a mere fashion statement, as raw denim and wash and wear effects add interest that appears authentic and less label-driven. Accessories are based on streamlined designs that can look hand-forged and functional, with interest coming through in material mixes and bold or minimized closures • Beauty: Getting done quickly and efficiently is largely about achieving the effect of more work through choosing statement features – the old adage of working smarter not harder. Thus we see creative application moves with liner, with a focus on arc shapes through the crease. Like Japanese art, one stroke of red, like a persimmon red lip, looks amazing against a simplified face. We continue to see the emergence of blues for the eyes on a neutral canvas, along with white being used as a relief for allover shadow, liner or nails. Straight (if that is the natural texture), slicked or pulled back locks continue the focus on the fundamental. • Packaging: All about organization, clean design and graphic effects. Dry goods looks for materials – back to basics canvas, twill and burlap. Neo mariner effects. Classic blue and white combinations focusing on stripes, checks and weaves. Woodblock and batik techniques along with painterly watercolor touches. Artisanal denim. Wood and lacquered treatments. Smooth leathers with slight imperfections. The return of updated beauty planners. Utilitarian hardware and zippers. For skincare (and potentially makeup), the ongoing simplification of airless containers.
PAU L S MITH
SPORT M AX
BU R BER RY
OSM AN
Creative application techniques put a paramount on form. Watch for bold moves with liner – a focus on arc shapes through the crease – in gray, olive, brown or black. Liner can be slightly winged or rounded up – even continued under the eye for further emphasis. If liner is too harsh, we are also seeing shadow application moving back into emphasizing the crease as well. Leave the remainder of the focus to well-groomed brows and skin, or at most, white nails or the red lip detailed next in Code Red.
M AR I OS S C H WAB
M A RI OS S CH WAB
CEDR IC
CEDR I C
O SM AN
Z AC PO SEN
We continue to see a red lip being essential to the modern beauty look. For women on the go, with little time to spare, the payoff is big. Like Japanese art, one stroke of red – this time, a more orange persimmon red – works best against a simplified face. For extra drama, add a bit of nude or brown on the lid and groomed/defined brows.
CA RME N M A RC VALVO
VETEMENTS
CAR O LIN A HER R ER A
Shades of light blue and cobalt continue to be developed for use on the eyes against neutral faces. These colors are beautiful and calming as liners for the lower or upper
FEN DI
lid, as well as adhesive looks.
FENDI
FENDI
TO MMY HI LFI G ER
TO MMY HI LFI G ER
ATS U R O TAYAM A
White offers the ultimate minimalist note, a relief from color, yet noticeable as a statement for shadow or as liner (worked back to blended beige or brown shadows). It is also seeing renewed interest as inner liner to brighten eyes. In addition, it is the perfect blank nail color for the Element story.
ATSURO TAYAM A
VERONIQ UE BRANQ UINHO
N ANET TE LEPO R E
ANN DEMEU LEMEESTER
M A RI OS S CH WA B
M AR N I
TO PSHOP
The numbers above reference the DCS Spring/Summer 2016 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
Contemporary dance and movement set the stage for neo-romantic style. This theme features whisper application techniques that are all about delicacy and subtly highlighting feminine features. Both chalky and sheer finishes coexist, but fluidity of application and consistency are paramount. Pale pastels mix with serene grayed-over shades.
ER DEM
DEL POZO
GI OR G I O AR M ANI
H AI DER ACKER M ANN
ALO N LI VNÉ
• Beautiful Yet Strong: An overall ethereal feel balanced by quiet power in texture and technique. • Fashion: Diaphanous sheer fabrications like georgette and crepe allow for ease of movement and grace. Subtle pleats, fluid folds and tucks mirror dance movements. Lingerie touches are seen in super fine mesh and stocking lace. Hints of embellishment elevate the delicacy. Condensed and minimalist knits appear in easy slip-on and separate pieces. Lightly textured tone-on-tone motifs are subdued, while figurative, layered and illustrative motifs create a contemporary feel. Chalky neutral accessories underscore the fashion and beauty messages. • Beauty: Sheerness of application is essential. Heightened femininity focusing on glowing skin with highlights. Pale shades illuminate and open up eyes. This is where we see blush come back into the forefront, with fresh flushed faces. Eyebrows are groomed or nearly erased. Grayed over shades for nails look sophisticated. Pulled back or flowing hair goes with the feeling for ease in movement. • Packaging: A quiet, textural and dimensional appeal looks to sculpture-like packaging. Pleats, folds, twists and tucks underscore the effect as in apparel. Sheer translucencies or matte opaques are both appropriate finishes, as are modern metallics (consider adding a metallic factor to the Balance shades). Watch for paper textures and eggshell effects for the pale Flow range. Illustrations and relief sculptures can further emphasize the mood for fluidity.
ERDEM
GI OR G I O AR M ANI
H AI DER ACKEM ANN
The dance of life and modern movement inspires playing with pale shades on eyes to illuminate and visually open them. Creamy or even subtly sparkling colors even out the lids and bring color to a romantic face. Crystalline eyelashes further emphasize the effect, while brows are groomed or all but erased for an ethereal look.
H AI DER ACK EM AN N
B O RA AK SU
VER SACE
H AI DER ACKEM ANN
SALVATO R E FER R AG AMO
J UL IEN M ACDON AL D
The focus on movement brings a healthy glow into view. Fresh flushes combine with the illuminated eyes of the previous spread for heightened femininity. Shades of peach, mauve and lilac add a youthful effect in sheer powder and creamy formulations.
ER DEM
ER DEM
VER SACE
Moving into the deepened sophisticated tones of the story, we see shades of bronze, olive and mauve infused with metallics to create more subtly smokey eyes. These also work as liners
G IORG I O ARM ANI
or as do-it-all smoke sticks.
G UCCI
JU L IEN M ACDON AL D
GIORGIO AR M ANI
G U CCI
NO. 21
To keep both the pale and metallicized eye looks from becoming too precious and predictable, we see deep wine stained lips as the perfect dance partner. Liner, mascara and brow makeup should be minimized so that the out-of-season combination remains approachable.
NO. 21
NO. 2 1
JU LI EN M ACD ON ALD
DEL POZO
The numbers above reference the DCS Spring/Summer 2016 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
As we move further into the spring and summer, the blooms of the season inspire a desire for more color on the face. A naïve and playful approach to the tea party set modernizes the ladies who lunch into a Mad Hatter’s take on imagery and application. Shades of pink will be key, from pastel and confectionary to brighter tones. While matchy-matchy is a high society approach, with nails and lips perfectly coordinated, we also see fun clashes of color that work in surprising consumers with offbeat, yet wearable combinations.
ALTU Z AR R A
TSU MO R I CHI SATO
ANN YEE
MO SCHI NO
• Ladylike Yet Playful: Sweets and beauty treats must always be enjoyed in sophisticated, ladylike style. • Fashion: Embracing curves and polished appeal in ballgown and A-line skirts, button down blouses and matching sets (which apply to accessories and beauty as well with a growing matchy-matchy aesthetic). Beau Monde blooms mix with statement couture and fancy tweeds. Appliqués, laser cut and crochet details add cheerful and lighthearted decadence. Daisies, polka dots and gingham lend a flash of quirky charm. Evening cocktail looks become daytime staples, while pin-up swimwear is steeped in vintage appeal. Opulent embellishments and floral accents for accessories reinforce the mood, with hats and hosiery making welcome returns. • Beauty: Embrace the season with a warm welcome to all things feminine. Think confectionary lips in luscious pink, pastel tones for eyes and a big focus on lashes. The brighter shades of the Tea Parlor palette move into a more playful approach to eyes and mouthwatering lips. Glowing, “just had a facial” skincare and coiffed hair up the society impression. • Packaging: Playful plastics in lighthearted geos and girly visuals take on a synthetic ‘50s tone. Surface interest, appliqués and three-dimensional embroideries elevate and embellish common items. Bubbly stamp, wallpaper and stencil prints create flirty, graphic styles. Wallpaper motifs, conversational themes and home-furnishing materials offer retro flair.
KENZO
EM ANU EL U NG AR O
PR ADA
M OSCHINO
Confectionary lips bring out modern day Barbies. There is a slight blue base to some of the new pinks that looks surprisingly fresh. We see a big play on complementary lashes (and possibly winged black liner) that bring flirtation to a different level.
M OS CH IN O
ALT UZ ARRA
MO SCHI NO
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Midtone pastels – especially lilac – take on a modernized retro feel in sheer and matte finishes. Again, a big focus on lashes works here. Also look to attention-grabbing pairings with contrasting bright lips.
S ALVATOR E FER RAG AM O
R O CH AS
R O CH AS
SHENZ HEN
DER EK L AM
For eyes, we also see colors moving into the brighter side of the palette. The colors that work best include turquoise, magenta/ fuchsia and sunny yellow. Lips can be left toned down or amped up with an equally bold color.
M AT T HEW W IL L I AM SON
DEREK L AM
FATI M A LO PES
EM ANU EL U NG AR O
The hallmark of a lady is pulling out her tube of lipstick in a fresh high society color for a quick touch up. Juicy, mouthwatering brights – particularly orange and magenta/fuchsia – reinvigorate Park Avenue pouts. Watch for full on applications against glowing,
TANYA TAYLOR
“just had a facial” visages.
TANYA TAYLOR
M ISSONI
MI SSO NI
M OS CHINO
SAUNDER
The numbers above reference the DCS Spring/Summer 2016 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
From Africa to Latin America, modernized versions of multiculturalism are seen with a new execution of global appeal. We see an approach inspired by craft, inked tattoos, body decoration and indigenous root vegetables. This is your passport to summer beauty – no stamps necessary – just a sense of adventure and willingness to take the best of exotic colors and techniques in a forward direction.
STELL A JEAN
ASHISH
• Neo Africana and Modernized Ethnic References: Super glitz and overt decadence exude indulgence. • Fashion: Boho nouveau mixes eclectic digital prints and the exotic flair of beading and embellishment – cultural crafts create a new bohemian sensibility. Colorful batik, geometric ethnic prints and crafted patchwork hint at folklore. Stripes colored in hues taken from root vegetables are rustic. Artistic and illustrative prints mix together on simpler shapes for a gutsier take on tribal motifs. Explosive cultural prints mix well with stripes and geos. New applications look modern on Western style garments and accessories. Speaking of, an eclectic mixture of materials – along with digital prints and skins, ethnic patterns, feathers and fringe – is the finishing touch for the escape artist. • Beauty: We see application techniques inspired by craft, inked tattoos, body decoration and indigenous root vegetables. Look to henna colored mouths and/or metallic stripes down lower center lip for a sophisticated tribal effect. Extended liner in two bold shades – one for the upper and one for the lower lid – accentuate graphic eyes. Shades of brown and black are also used in new ways with thick winged applications. Emphasizing or diminishing the strength of eyebrows balances the effect, and face sculpting can be used for dimension. Cinnamon, cassava and eggplant, create nature-inspired shades that encircle eyes, and can be further accented with a bright lip. Nails can also get into the mood with multicolor applications. Twisted or slicked back hair works equally as well as long, loose locks – texture encouraged. • Packaging: Souvenirs from the continents look to geos, tribal stencils and ethnic art. Handcrafted traditional styling and prints. Basketry and beadwork. Over-embroidery and patchwork effects. Pop art-like spin on traditional graphics. Primitive and irregular looking clay and pottery.
JU ST CAVALLI
PR EEN BY THOR NTO N BR EG AZ Z I
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Natural henna colored lips take inspiration from the dye for exotic appeal. We are also seeing renewed interest in body and face piercing, so for the youth-minded audience, cosmetics mimic the look. The henna or heightened color mouth can be imprinted with a metallic gold stripe for the effect of a lip ring (gold waterproof pencil or liner will work). Like flash tattoos, watch this idea gain in popularity with the festival music set.
DAVID TI ALE
DRIES VAN NOT EN
DRIES VAN NOTEN
DAVI D TLI ALE
DR I ES VAN NOTEN
SHENZ HEN
Again, more forward for the youth-minded consumer, applications take cues from tribal motifs and markings, but are rendered in brighter colors. The most understandable take is extended liner in two bold shades – one for the upper and one for the lower lid. These effects can also be inspirational purely for packaging and merchandising/advertising/marketing efforts.
GIL ES
SH ENZHEN
VI VI ENNE WEST WO O D
N ASI R M AZ H AR
RODEBJER
Shades of brown, black and even navy (see our face template at the end of this chapter) are used in new ways with modern, thick winged applications. Faces can be left otherwise bare and perfected, the effect heightened by either the emphasis of or diminishing of the eyebrows. Face sculpting also adds dimension.
G I VEN CHY
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
GIVENCHY
JOHN G ALLI ANO
CU SHNI E ET O CHS
Cinnamon, cassava and eggplant – spices and root vegetables indigenous to Africa – create nature-inspired shades that encircle the eyes. These can be worn back to a sculpted face or accented with a bright lip.
VERA WANG
SI LBLI NG
SI LBLI NG
O UDIFU
The numbers above reference the DCS Spring/Summer 2016 Color Concept and Color Workshop.
KENZO
Shifts are happening in the hair arena. While edgy, punk-inspired cuts are on the cutting edge, literally, we see less experimentation with color and move towards more natural, glamorous colors that look well maintained – watch for color to become a status symbol again. In terms of styling, there are creative takes on top knots and buns. Braids and fresh pony options abound. For the undecided, half slicked hair as well as center sections cover options. While fresh pixies and bobs are de rigueur, watch for the comeback of sexy shags. Anticipate an outstanding season for hair accessories, following in the wake of floral crowns, which continue to inspire, along with embellished hairnets, decorative ponytail holders and scarves. For the minimalist, a simple polished barrette will do.
N ANET TE LEPO R E
M AR C BY M AR C JACO BS
AI G NER
Top knots and updos are a top choice for styling, whether big and puffy or teased and retro. Watch for creative multiple knot
SAU N DER
ER M AN N O S CERVIN O
PAUL COS TEL LOE
applications as well as braid crowns for finish.
M AR I SSA WEBB
JER EMY SCOT T
GI OR G I O AR M ANI
Always a popular styling choice, braids make a popular resurgence with the incoming feel for tribal and festival-related dressing. Watch
SU N O
M ARI A KE
M AR I S S A W EBB
for variations on cornrows, fishtail techniques and singular braids.
ALO N LI VNÉ
ALTU Z AR R A
ALI CE + O LI VI A
Chic chignons create back interest with new takes on twisting, rolling and hair left out. Interlaced fabric
TADAS H I S H O JI
P RE EN BY TH OR NTO N B REG AZ Z I
ANTON I O B ER ARDI
adds further dimension and a coordinated feel.
G I LES
CU SHNI E ET O CHS
BO R A AKSU
Apparently, there is still room for surprise in terms of the classic ponytail. Watch for double and triple band applications (sometimes combined with center
TALB OT RU NH O F
M AR IOS S CH WAB
K AT YA LEON OVI CH
sectioned hair), wrapped side ponies and sophisticated low-slung looks.
EMI LI A WI CKSTEAD
CARVEN
CARVEN
When undecided on texture and styling, it’s nice to have options. Look to the continuation of styling that offers slicked back off-the-face hair combined with natural texture, or with
LUCAS N AS CI M ENTO
JU LI EN M ACDO N AL D
EMI LI A WI CKS TEAD
the undertones of ‘60s/’70s retro takes that feature center sectioned hair.
M AR C JACO BS
DR I ES VAN NOTEN
CH AL AYAN
Our radar is definitely on shags, in all of their sexy variations. Again, with music and a strong ’70s undercurrent, watch for them to become more prominent with deep side parts or bangs.
TO M FORD
TO M FORD
L AN VIN
They work from short to mid lengths, and for almost all hair types, from straight to wavy.
CI VI DI NI
ANTEPR I M A
BU R BER RY
Bobs continue to be one of the most versatile and modern cut options. Speaking of options, look for more focus on natural texture and movement,
VER A WAN G
T RAG ER DEL AN EY
J ILL S TUART
even with bangs, although precise Sassoon versions are not out of the question.
FENDI
CH ANEL
ANG EL SANCHEZ
With active and techno references still at the forefront of fashion, short cropped cuts continue to look especially relevant. Newness appears in longer side-swept
P RE EN BY TH OR NTO N B REG AZ Z I
M AL AN BR ETO N
H OU S E O F H O L L AN D
or pushed back bangs, along with daring allover buzzes à la Sinead O’Connor.
M AR CHESA
FENDI
BALENCI AG A
BO R A AKSU
Following in the wake of success of festival-related floral crowns, which continue to inspire, we see embellished hairnets, decorative ponytail
VALENT IN O
ANN A S U I
P O RS CH E
MI S S O NI
holders and scarves. For the minimalist, a simple polished barrette will do.
• The Obama Effect: As we are all now aware, December 2014 marked the passage of the Sunscreen Innovation Act, which means Americans will have access to the latest sunscreen ingredients by Summer 2015. While we certainly have much larger and more looming national issues at hand, we do applaud the speedy passage of the bill which will give consumers greater access and choice at a time when skin cancer is at an all-time high. What remains to be seen, is how involved in the cosmetics industry the government will be going forward. Many may remember 2008 when then California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger signed two bills into law to ban potentially harmful chemicals in beauty products. The European Union has generally had a much stricter watch over the industry than the U.S. in the past, so it will be interesting to see if this most recent U.S. move has widespread impact. • Tech Makes Scent: The Japanese have been working on the technology to emit certain fragrance notes from specialized computer programs in order to sell high end fragrances online, but in addition, there are huge opportunities at the mass level. In lieu of sales staff, it would be wise to start thinking of more interactive formats for selling fragrance at drugstores and mass retailers. If a fragrance rep can’t spritz your wrist, what about a fragrance kiosk, which can also print out or explain the benefits of multiple brands? • Space Age: In the past, we have mentioned Brad’s Biophotonic Skin Care, which was developed in 2004 following the commission for a high performance skincare line in collaboration with a private charter jet fleet. Well now in 2014, the Technology Applications International Corporation (NUUU) has concluded a clinical study to test the efficacy of anti-aging products developed on earth and tested in space by NASA. The products are “Space Certified” – quite the impressive claim. If products can offset the effects of time and the moisture content loss of the space program, imagine the testing potential for the future. • Pro-Age: Last season, we wrote about society becoming somewhat “ageless.” We now see consumers starting to search beyond and become tired of all the “anti-aging” claims, to embrace a more realistic concept of beauty that looks at the aging process from its best aspects. Lancôme recently carried out a study that revealed 45 is the age most women begin to feel “old,” and most women over 50 are not interested in looking younger, they want to look healthy. So with this ever evolving perception, traditional anti-aging and anti-wrinkle claims are quickly becoming outdated and tired, and for brands looking to cater to the silver community, a new approach and language is needed. Think more positive overall improvement of skin quality or plumped up appearance versus anti-___ messages. This will also apply to make-up and hair care segments. • Social Celebrities/Selfies: Are celebrities what makeup artists and bloggers used to be to cosmetic companies? Estée Lauder created a lot of conversation when they signed celebrity, model and social media sensation Kendall Jenner of Kardashian fame. It’s easy to see why she was an attractive target (literally) with a Lauder-perfect appearance, along with 16.5 million followers. To develop this type of following would be no easy feat for any company, and a celebrity can certainly bring attention to a brand in a way that no advertising can. Also related to social media with the rise in selfies, and the requisite postings of such images, is the influence they may have in skin care and color cosmetics, with products that produce “selfie or photo perfect” looks.
Doneger Creative Services colors cross-referenced to Pantone 速 for Fashion and Home Color System*
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