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S H E L DA H A R T W E L L - H A L E Vice President Merchandising 213-362-0957 shelda@directiveswest.com R AC H A E L RO B B I N S K AC H KO Merchandising Strategist Contemporary Sportswear 213-362-0959 rachael@directiveswest.com

Directives West, CopyrightŠ2016, Henry Doneger Associates, Inc. 463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018. All rights reserved. No part of this content may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system.



Denim’s moment is reconstructed, retooled and refinished. A retro renaissance of pieced-together, elevated details and reinterpretations of youthful vintage are recreated in innovative jean silhouettes. Denim is timeless and boundary transcending, able to anchor almost any outfit and is quintessential West Coast. Updated jean bodies and feminine dressing. Vintage reinterpreted, ’90s influence, worn-in, tonally patched and youthfully distressed. Raw or frayed hem jeans are the provenance of the street style trendsetter. Denim newness is driving the process with reimagined fabric manipulation, repurposed rigids and artisan details. Ma rque s

A l m e i da


The jean: the straight, skinny, kicker,

Head-to-toe denim is playful with new

girlfriend, high-waisted, ankle crop and

proportions and reimagined silhouettes.

the fashion baggy jean. Frayed edges, undone, cuffed and stepFashion silhouettes: one-piece dressing,

cut hems. Overdone distressing takes a

femme tops, shirting, mini and pencil

backseat to cut & sewn repair. Piecemeal

skirts, dresses, jean shorts and jackets:

denim is united.

denim trucker, duster, vest and bomber.

Shadowing, colorblock and patchwork

All shades of denim blues, muted neutral

techniques, exposed buttons, robust

creams, grays and blushes, white, bleach

hardware, tonal and colorful embroidery,

treatments and acid wash.

playful appliquĂŠs, embellishment, paint splatter, railroad stripes and tonal printing. Retro rigid, infused blends, stretch fabrics, chambrays and Tencel.


Defining laid-back Cali cool beach to street dressing. Carefree and layered, a spirited hodgepodge of street, surf, gypsy and lounge. Redefining urban Boho chic influenced by our Reformation girl. Retro references inspire feminine dressing and skin-baring moments. Mismatched and redone in a youthful way, taking festival style in a new direction. Soft dressing in breezy gauze and sheer fabrics moves with ease. Playful details, stripes in retro and rainbow combinations, washed colors, texture innovation and feminine effortlessness. Body aware and skinbaring. Sunday leisure with a twist. A l ex a nd e r

Wa n g


Skimmer knits, soft bottoms, dolphin

Halters, racerback, open backs, cut-

and paper bag shorts, lightweight

outs, sheer paneling, flowy shapes, bare

brushed shirtings, rompers, femme and

shoulders, directional straps, tie-fronts,

flowy day dresses, luxury knits and light-

ab-baring crops, bodysuits, leggings.

weight denim. Airy fabrics, gauzy wovens, feminine Crafted embroideries, crochet,

sheers, breezy and textured, active

patchwork, open weave knits, fishnet,

influenced, buttery knits, ribbed

frayed edges, tassels, ties, and pom-

textures.

poms.

Prints: stripes, conversational, color

Sun-drenched colors and neutrals, calm

blocking, tie-dye, ombrĂŠ, bleach

grays, layered whites, Baja brights,

treatments, worldly print inspirations,

primary pop combos, pretty pastels and

florals.

blues.

Graphics: ’70s retro, coffee and alcohol, humorous verbiage, pop culture references, surf and beach visuals.


Ultra-femme, sinfully playful yet innocently sweet. Rooted in retro charm. An emphasis on romantic ease, ladylike edge and sophisticated simplicity. Whimsy of boudoir dressing, eyecatching laces, translucent fabrics and imaginative pairings. Extra soft, a hypergirly touch fitted in breezy, silky fabrics and whispery pleats. Our fresh faced girly girl is rooted in retro prettiness, Victorian frilly ruffles, shoulder exposure and neck details. One-piece playsuits and two-piece sets excite, dresses continue with newness. Wildly romantic florals, a watercolor of sweet candy colors, blushing nudes, barely there blush and creamy whites entice. Ul l a

Jo h nso n


Decorative laces, delicate/heavyweights,

Shoulder exposure: off-the-shoulder,

creative patterns, crochet, netted mesh

strapless and one-shoulder, bow and

and eyelet, either in placement or allover,

billowy blouses.

newness in playful colors, embroidery and novelty embellishment.

Femme dresses: slip, maxi, midi, waist accentuated, drop waist, button or tie-

Skin-baring, back details, playful straps,

front and voluminous shapes. Two-piece

deep cleavage, ab-baring, cutouts, and

sets matched and one-piece playsuits.

neck focus.

Sheer, chiffon and whispery wovens,

Barely there nudes, blush, tans, white

draped, inserted and layered, tiered

and creams, pale tints, pinks, lavender,

placement, pleating and Victorian-

seafoam, blues, yellow and golds.

inspired ruffles, frilly edges and pleating. Retro, romantic, ditsy and washed-out florals, stripes, conversational, whimsical and wallpaper prints .


Social media darlings and off-duty models tweeting the most up-to-date, trend-savvy pairings. The importance of now dressing. Streetwear’s ongoing influence makes its presence known. Nostalgic fashion references the ’80s and ’90s. Instagram-ready style, paving the way for millennial dressing. An air of L.A. eccentric style, feminine yet tomboy chic. Combination of California retro pieces, utilitarian toughness, active streetwear, duster layers and skin-baring looks. Body conscious pieces layered back to high-rise bottoms and statement toppers. The most up-to-date, trend savvy pairings, snapchatting buy-now go-to looks . Ji l l

S tua r t


’90s influence: skin-baring sheers,

Classic streetwear brands and nostalgic

lingerie and bralettes worn as toppers,

dressing is having a major moment,

satin slip dresses, utilitarian jackets,

retro tracksuits complete the look.

bomber jackets, duster trenches, active streetwear influence, hard and soft

Layering of soft, textured and ribbed

combined.

knits, silky wovens, netting and sheer mesh, translucent fabrics over and under

Retro-inspired silhouettes; leather and

add-ons.

denim in statement-making pieces.

Tie-fronts, open-sides, cutouts, crops,

Retro graphics, worn-in band tees,

high-slits, back details, deep cleavage and

Logomania, allover ditsy florals, animal

shoulder exposure.

skins, conversationals, dots, retro stripes.

Distressing, worn-in, rips & tears,

Heavily focused on neutrals: black,

hardware, zippers and studs.

white, heather gray, olive green paired with metallics, yellows and blues.


The upside down effect to dressing. A wild clash and pile it on mentality currently upsetting fashion’s usual expectations. Youth culture pairs the unconventional and twists the classics. The progressive trendsetter is unafraid to push the boundaries. Daywear pajama dressing in robes, two-piece sets and slips goes beyond the norm. The artful vintage-like dresser is dazzling in playful, girly print explosion. A new generation of multicolored, sheer, ruffled, and a layer parade of everything goes. Outrageous embroideries, laces, patchwork, silky and translucent fabrics. A reverie for risk-taking as nothing is too much, individual style is key. B aum

Und

P f e rdga r te n


Literal pajama dressing in silky two-piece

Bombers, dresses, tees and denim,

sets, robes, camis, slips and vintage-

morphed with lavish appliquĂŠs,

inspired sheer nightgowns.

iron-ons, handcrafted embroideries, shining patchworks, sweet bows, large

Feminine jumpers, blouses and dresses,

ruffles, pleats, frilly edges and glittery

men’s-inspired shirting in shoulder-

embellishment.

baring and volume newness, trousers and novelty skirts.

Lace in delicate patterns and weighted

Clashing prints, print-splicing, vintage-

eyelets, crafty crochet, embroidered

tinged florals, wallpaper patterns,

birds and flowers.

whimsical repeat and oxford stripes.

Sheers, silks, mesh, novelty yarns, spring

Visual kaleidoscope of color palettes:

brocade, soft metallics, leather and

pastels, electric brights, metallics and

cotton poplins.

nostalgic tones.


Silhouettes updated by new and novel fabrics, details, color and prints, raised and choker necklines, sleeve interest and bell sleeves, Victorian influence, soft and pretty focus, proportion play and volume, artisan embroidery, tassels, pom- poms, skin-baring, peek-a-boo cutouts, high-slits, large and structural ruffles, pleating, deep-V cleavage, crop, tie-fronts, skimmer top lengths, lasercut patterns, tie focus at waists, shoulder exposure, cropped hemlines, raw edges, patches, strap play, back interest, utilitarian influence, pintucking, rouching, buy-now wear-now focus, toppers key­—trucker, duster, moto and bomber, pajama style dressing as the unconventional.

Pleated wovens, ribbed, jersey and cotton knits, eyelet, romantic lace, crochet and macramé, mesh, netting, cotton poplin, voile, gauze, leather, cupro, satin, silks and chiffons, see-through sheers, french terry, soft fleece, ponté, brushed linen, open weave knits, chambray, Tencel, non-stretch denim, utilitarian canvas and twill, seersucker.

White, blush, nude, marigold, yellow, peach, range of pinks, all shades of blue from light to navy, soft grays, lavender, dusty mauve, olive green, citron, mint, champagne, pale linen, tans, sienna, dragon fruit pink, machine red, sun-washed reds to yellows and other muted washes, black.

Manipulated, Oxford, Breton, Baja, Madras, pajama and sport stripes, candy and over-the-rainbow combinations, retro, ditsy and garden florals, border, tile, tie-dye, bleach treatments, whimsical and conversationals, repeat patterns, toile, colorblock, dots, windowpane checks, artisan geos, print and patterns mixed and spliced together, Cuban-inspired graphics, humorous sayings, vintage graphics, destination, licensed band tees, ’90s nostalgia sport, logomania.



Fra me

D e n i m


Retro-driven and inspired by vintage

Distressing, rip & repair, slashed knees,

Levi’s.

patches and patchwork techniques, appliqués, embroidery, exposed buttons,

A pieced-together feel, reconstructed and

zipper details, seaming and back pocket

retooled.

focus.

Two-tone denim and shadow detailing.

Updated retro-inspired rigid fabrics,

High-waists from 9 ½ to 11 inches, ankle

infused blends and stretch fabrics.

lengths 26” to 28” inseam. Shades of blues, gray, blushes, cream Cuffed, raw, frayed, overdyed and stepcut hems. Destructed washes, stone washes and clean washes.

and white.


Re be c c a

Mi n ko ff


One-piece dressing elevated by its

Pretty florals: garden, dainty, ditsy,

newness.

and retro-inspired, range of stripes and conversational prints.

Rompers and jumpsuits with a clear feminine message.

Textured knits, femme wovens, laces, delicate and heavy eyelets, chambrays,

Focus on novelty details such as ties,

cotton gauze.

playful straps, tassels, pom-poms and embroidery.

The jumpsuit, seen mostly in cropped gaucho style.

Neck focus, halter and chokers, rouching and ruffle edges.

Rompers essential to spring buys, sleeves for Q1.

Bareness in daring cutouts at cleavage, abs and back, shoulder exposure is key.


K e n i sto n


The choker top is this year’s It Girl’s

Soft silks, cotton gauze, sheer chiffons,

favorite look.

airy, translucent textures and fitted knits.

Part turtleneck, part mock and part halter, cutout or down-to-there V-neck,

Sleeve interest with balloon and bells or

this top is everything in one.

complete bare arms.

Tie-neck and ruffle edge details.

In solid textured fabrics and in a range of prints especially florals and retro-

Bare shoulders in cold shoulder and

inspired.

shoulder cut-outs. Perfectly matched for two-piece sets. Crop tops, skimmers, fitted or voluminous silhouettes.


O ff

Wh i te


This bestseller continues to be in the

Contrast lining.

forefront of topper pieces. Play on proportions in cropped, Important item to our social media style

traditional, duster lengths and oversized

setter.

silhouettes.

Newness is key to excite the customer.

Spirited color combos, bold bright primaries, bright and the usual neutrals

Embroidery, patches, embellishment, sporty stripes, piping, colorblocking, word play and trend accents. Flauna, floral, Asian motifs, birds, tigers, word play pattern stitched, satin sheen, nylons and silky fabrics that shine.

of black and olive green.


Ul l a

Jo h nso n


Beyond just the traditional shirt style.

Range of sleeve and hem lengths, both soft and waist-accentuated.

Spring’s best dresses encompass comfort, ease and understandable modernity.

Wearable wovens, men’s-inspired cotton poplins, laces, chambrays.

Range of soft, structured and retroinspired styles.

Creative details, peek-a-boo moments, ruffles, spirited sleeves, pockets.

Newness with cutouts, knot-fronts, sleeve awareness and button-front details. Classic collared shirt styles or updated by not necessarily having a collar.

An array of solids, print and patterns.


Re be c c a

Ta y l o r


Reimagined to embody a girly aesthetic

Vintage color palette such as rust,

and relaxed style.

cinnamon, blush and gold, creamy neutrals and shades of blue.

Playful paper bag tie-waists, soft ruffle edges and oversized pockets.

Stripes, florals, tonal and worldly prints.

Retro influence with sporty and festival

Spring’s message is to pair back to any

style inspiration.

femme top or statement topper piece.

High-waist emphasis. Elevated fabric choices in textured wovens, whispery gauze, heavy laces and structured twills.


Way f


Off-the-shoulder silhouettes, bare-

Draping fabrics, soft wovens and

shoulder blouses, one-shoulder tops, tie-

whispery gauze, rayon blends, sheer

neck flounce and cold-shoulder flutter

chiffons, delicate laces and textured

dresses.

knits.

Spring’s most imperative statement is

Burnout patterns, femme prints,

shoulder bareness.

romantic florals, conversationals and stripes.

Dramatic blouses, one-piece playsuits and dresses in fitted and flowy

The newest message is men’s-inspired

silhouettes.

shirting with a femme twist and naked additions.

Ruffles, pleating, rouching, balloon sleeves, trapeze and flirty flounce additions.


Pa m

a nd

G e l a


This season’s new bottom is both trend-

Active knit, sophisticated trouser

driven and what’s now important.

wovens, casual twill fabrics and cool-girl denim.

Nineties style active side stripes, spurred by retro track pants, throwback

Pockets, pleating, tie and elastic waists,

streetwear and athleisure.

true or high-waisted.

Either in sporty or trouser silhouettes.

Seen in mostly black with bold red, blue or white stripes, surprises in electric

Play on proportion in slim, tapered,

blues and yellows.

slouch and oversized for drape. Perfect seasonless item. Nostalgic dressing at its best.


Vi c toria

Vi c to r i a

B e c k ha m


Activewear meets fashion for street style

Nostalgic logomania, decorative

perfection.

embroidery, patches, shoulder focus and novelty details.

Updating the athleisure trend with volume, elongated sleeves and drop

Crew or hoodie.

shoulders. True oversized now becomes the new Sporty energy in oversized hoodies

sweatshirt dress.

and cropped popovers with a feminine quality. Luxury fabrics in buttery fleece and french terry. Corresponding sporty togetherness for ensemble magic or perfect for the statement-making piece.

The new day-to-night key item.


Ro sett a

G ett y


The classic button down has been turned

Cotton poplin and soft cottons are

on its head and creatively twisted.

key fabrications, brushed and washed wovens, rayons and chambray fabrics as

Flounce, exaggerated bell sleeves,

well.

Victorian ruffles, lace accents, coldshoulders and innovative men’s stylde

Oxford Circus is the new declaration in

shirting reimagined.

stripe innovation and creative designs.

Street style supersized shapes with

Crisp white and denim blues are the

structural ruffles, tie-necks, elaborate

main color story.

cuffs and sleeve interest. Wrapped around and tied at the waist, slim tucked or tunic length hanging above the knees.


Ma r ku s

Lu pf e r


Sleepwear is no longer just for sleeping

Silky and stain fabrics with lace and

as decadent pajamas are the new norm.

piping accents.

Literal pajama dressing in silky two-piece

Whimsy, conversationals, florals and

sets, robes, camis, slips and vintage-

stripes.

inspired sheer nightgowns. Robes are the new topper pieces of Clearly for the eccentric dresser.

comfort glam in printed kimonos and embroidered robe styles.

Fancy pajama tops worn as statementmaking daywear, pairs back to denim

Duster to the calf is the most translatable

and femme skirts.

silhouette.


S e e

b y

C h l o é


Our Reformation girl loves the

Easy-to-wear flounce or bold volume.

retro feminine silhouette of skirting statements.

Denim skirts continue to excite with uneven cut hems, distressed, frayed

Now trend-forward, in easy-to-wear

edges, seaming and pocket details,

wovens, high-slits, works back to spring’s

embroideries in mini and pencil

best tops.

silhouettes.

Wrap skirts are a mainstay in midi

Front and back pocket focus.

lengths. Retro worldly, floral and stripe prints. Bold ruffles and pleating, tie-waists and knot-fronts, button details.



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