Bars & Clubs September - October 2015 by The Intermedia Group

APERITIF HOUR

THE SPREAD OF THE EUROPEAN TREND

TEQUILA

THE DOWN-LOW ON HIGHLAND VS VALLEY SPIRITS

THE MARTINI

SHOULD IT BE SHAKEN, STIRRED, OR BLENDED WITH FRUIT?

BLENDED

WHISKIES What you need to know about this fascinating category

PLUS: XMAS FUNCTION PLANNING – OFF-BEAT SUMMER BEERS – REMEMBERING SASHA PETRASKE

bars&clubs FOR BAR PROFESSIONALS WHO WANT MORE

NOW WITH GREATER REACH THAN EVER APERITIF HOUR

THE SPREAD OF THE EUROPEAN TREND

TEQUILA

THE DOWN-LOW ON HIGHLAND VS VALLEY SPIRITS

THE MARTINI

APERITIF HOUR

SHOULD IT BE SHAKEN, STIRRED, OR BLENDED WITH FRUIT?

THE SPREAD OF THE EUROPEAN TREND

TEQUILA

THE DOWN-LOW ON HIGHLAND VS VALLEY SPIRITS

THE MARTINI

SHOULD IT BE SHAKEN, STIRRED, OR BLENDED WITH FRUIT?

BLENDED

WHISKIES What you need to know about this fascinating category

BLENDED

WHISKIES What you need to know about this fascinating category

PLUS: XMAS FUNCTION PLANNING – OFF-BEAT SUMMER BEERS – REMEMBERING SASHA PETRASKE

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FIRST DRINKS

op Shelf has come and gone again for another year, and yet again it’s been a successful event. The feedback has been wonderful – from trade attendees, members of the public and brands. And there was a consistent theme throughout everyone’s answers – they loved chatting to suppliers and brands, uncovering new products, and seeing the passion that people have for their products. While it's always heartening to hear that consumers are interested in new products that you can bring to them in your own venues – it’s a great excuse to mix up your shelves – it’s also great to hear first-hand how much your customers will respond to passion and to a great story. That also means that you, and your staff, will have to brush up on your product knowledge, but that is never a bad thing. If you can spin someone a tale about how master

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blenders maintain the taste consistency of their whiskies by simply smelling them, well, they’re not only going to be interested but they’re going to have a great story to pass on and a reason to come back – a great customer service experience that allowed them to brag about their knowledge of whisky later. Having just come back from a trip to NYC to check out the bar scene, it’s always interesting to see what trends are coming around. The thing that struck me the most – while I lazed away several evenings out the front of Dante – is the whole-hearted acceptance of the concept of aperitifs in the city. Everyone was out enjoying the last gasps of summer in the city, downing everything from Negronis to Aperol spritz to pints of ever-present local craft beer, before moving on to whatever pop-up restaurant or experimental food truck happened to be in fashion that week. As a dedicated fan of all three of the above drink options, I have personally been enjoying the renaissance of the same concept here in Australia – and we really do have the weather for it. (There is always something a little odd about cramming into a tiny restaurant bar in the dead of a snow-filled European winter to cradle an ice-cold aperitif glass while waiting for a table to become available. Sweat-filled thermals and giant puffer coats are optional extras). As summer nudges around the corner and the days start getting longer, it’s the perfect time to introduce your customers to the concept of aperitif hour and the

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joys of slightly bitter, lower alcohol (but not always) drinks that will stimulate their appetite as well as refresh them – pretty essential given how hot the powers that be are predicting this summer will be. It’s also that weird time of year where department stores start decking the halls and supermarkets start flogging puddings and mince pies (if they hadn’t already started in August out of apparent boredom). That means one thing: it is Christmas party season. It can be a pretty stressful time, so deep breaths, because honestly it will be New Year before you can blink and then you’ll have another eight months to steel yourself for the next round of seasonal spirit. Logistically speaking, Christmas is always a full-on time of year, and the way to best prepare for it is simply to be ready for potential worst case scenarios – and a lot of people making decisions they will regret after their office Christmas party hangover has worn off. I’ll finish on a somewhat sad note – it was with a collective heavy heart that the industry farewelled a legend with the tragic passing of Sasha Petraske. He will be sorely missed by many all over the world, including here in Australia, and it is only right that we raise a glass to the man who was so instrumental in revitalising the cocktail world. Cheers,

Stefanie Collins Editor, bars&clubs

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MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia. com.au EDITOR Stefanie Collins scollins@intermedia.com.au EDITOR-AT-LARGE James Wilkinson jwilkinson@intermedia. com.au CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Cover: Simon Taylor Saint Urban: Kim Jane Top Shelf: Peter Czeczon (Cover shot on location at Louis Tan, Bondi) NATIONAL SALES MANAGER Mark Ryu mryu@intermedia.com.au (02) 85866123 GERNERAL SALES – HOSPITALITY & LIQUOR Shane T Williams stwilliams@intermedia. com.au GRAPHIC DESIGN Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd ABN 940 025 83 682 41 Bridge Road, GLEBE, NSW Australia, 2037 Telephone: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 1883

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FLAVOURS IN

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER

24 BLENDED WHISKY

Set aside preconceptions and explore the wonderful world of blends and master blenders.

FEATURE LIST

REGULAR LIST

BE CHRISTMAS SEASON READY

All the latest industry news.

The newest beers, ciders, and mixers.

NEWS

How to be prepared, from those in the know.

TEQUILA Highland vs valley tequila – time to learn the difference.

IN THE COOLER

APERITIFS As summer heads our way, get on board with the European tradition.

OPENINGS The new, the revamped and the rebranded venues opening around the country.

OPERATOR PROFILE Corey Crooks on building a beer empire.

BEHIND THE BAR The latest wine and spirit releases for your back bar.

The world reacts to the tragic passing of Sasha Petraske.

There is plenty more to beer in summer than an ice cold lager.

Everything you missed when the boutique drinks festival rolled into Melbourne.

Shaken or stirred and everything in between – the history of Bond’s favourite.

FAREWELLING A LEGEND

6 bars&clubs

SUMMER BEER

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NEWS VIBE THE BARS, THE EVENTS, THE THE DRINKS, DRINKS, THE THE PASSION BRANDS

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SPACE WHISKY OFFICIALLY TASTES DIFFERENT FOUR years ago samples of Ardbeg whisky were sent to the International Space Station. After being returned to Earth the samples have been tested and the results are in. “The space samples were noticeably different,” Dr Bill Lumsden, Ardbeg’s director of distilling, said. “When I nosed and tasted the space samples, it became clear that much more of Ardbeg’s smoky, phenolic character shone through, to reveal a different set of smoky flavours which I have not encountered here on Earth before.” He added: “Ardbeg already has a complex character, but the results of our experiment show that there is potentially even more complexity that we can uncover, to reveal a different side to the whisky.” Further analysis, looking at ratios of different types of wood extractive compounds, found significant differences between the two sets of samples – demonstrating that gravity has a very real effect on the maturation of spirits. Dr Lumsden said: “Our findings may also one day have significant implications for the whisky industry as a whole. In the future, the altered range of wood extractions could lead scientists to be able to detail the ratios of compounds expected in whiskies of a certain age.” Jeffrey Manber, CEO of NanoRacks which partnered with Ardbeg on this experiment, commented: “It’s hard to find companies willing to be pioneers. To have a partner like Ardbeg that is willing to make this sort of commitment augurs well for the future of commercial space research into flavourings and what it changes for consumer products in general.”

DIAGEO WORLD CLASS JAPAN’S Michito Keneko has been named as the winner of the 2015 Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender competition, beating the global field that gathered in South Africa for the final. After four days of challenges and competitions Keneko was selected as the best from among the original 54 contenders by a panel of expert judges. “When I heard my name, I couldn’t believe what I was hearing, I was in total shock,” Keneko said after the announcement. “I’m very happy to have won. This is definitely a turning point in my life. I can’t wait to tell my wife and family. But I must remember that even though I am the World Class champion, I must stay humble and true to myself and what I love.” Thirteen years ago Michito quit his job as a construction worker to become a bartender, after tasting cocktails in his home region of Nara, Japan. Three years ago he opened his own bar in Nara, The Lamp Bar, where he is the manager and sole bartender. Australia’s entrant, Jack Sotti of Melbourne bar Boilermaker House, came third in the prestigious competition. As the winner Keneko now has the opportunity to travel the world as a global brand ambassador for World Class.

BACARDI TOP THREE THE semi-final of the Australian Bacardi Legacy cocktail competition took place on the Gold Coast, with three bartenders to now fight it out for the national title. The initial field of 145 entrants was whittled down to the top 15 ‘most inspirational drinks’ by Bacardi’s brand ambassadors. Each of the 15 contestants told the stories behind their legacy cocktails at the semi-final before presenting their drink to the judges for tasting. The top three bartenders and their drinks were announced in no particular order: The Seventh Art – Andrew Bennett (The Classroom, WA) The Treaty of Paris – Peter Hollands (The Gresham, QLD) El Pasaporte – Igor Pachi (Assembly Bar, NSW) The national final will take place in Sydney in February and between now and then the three finalists will be individually mentored by a Bacardi brand ambassador. That final will see one of the three named as the 2016 Australian Legacy winner and they will go on to compete in the 2016 Global Final, which will be held in San Francisco.

NEWS

HOW TO INNOVATE: TIPS FROM THE TOP We sat down with Jack Sotti, Australia’s entrant in World Class this year, to chat about what he learned about drink innovation in South Africa.

AUSSIE BREWER CLAIMS INTERNATIONAL TITLE AUSTRALIA’S Edge Brewing Project has been crowned Brewer of the Year, Oceania and won Best Lager at the 2015 International Beer Challenge. The Melbourne-based gypsy brewer was the best performer out of the Australian contingency, with its Cool Hops Australian Lager taking out the Best Lager trophy and its Cereal Killer Red Lager awarded a gold medal. The International Beer Challenge is a highly regarded competition that see entrants from over 30 countries and is judged by industry experts including retailers, importers, publicans, brewers, and flavour analysts.

ANGOSTURA NAMES AUSSIE WINNER AFTER a closely fought competition, James Irvine from the Baxter Inn in Sydney took out the Angostura Global Cocktail Challenge Australian Final, along with a role as Australian Angostura brand ambassador and a $10,000 cash prize. “I am honestly blown away. The competition was stiff and everyone that took part was a serious contender,” says Irvine. “Being an ambassador for Angostura is an amazing opportunity and is a career aspiration of mine. I’m looking forward to getting to Trinidad to compete in the global final. It would be incredible to see Australia take out back-to-back global finals.” Second place went to Alex Boon from Jahh Tiger, Brisbane, with Joe Sinagra from Bobeche, Perth, taking out third. To see the winning cocktail recipes, head online to Top Shelf Professional.

OLGR TARGETS RECKLESS ALCOHOL PROMOTIONS COCKTAILS served in milk bottles and plastic bags, vodka infused lollies, giant martini glasses and the sale of alcoholic shots from buckets are among irresponsible alcohol promotions detected at NSW licensed venues in the past year. In 2014/15, the NSW Office of Liquor, Gaming and Racing (OLGR) investigated 101 promotions deemed to encourage reckless drinking and intoxication. OLGR Director of Compliance & Enforcement Anthony Keon said 44 cases resulted in formal bans or restrictions on promotions with the remainder resolved satisfactorily following intervention and advice from OLGR officers.

B&C: What was the inspiration behind the ‘hovering’ cocktail? JACK: The Stealth Bomber was inspired by Sam Ross’ Paper Plane. I wanted to create a twist on this cocktail using the foundation of equal parts American whiskey with the use of dual amaro and citrus. It was created for the “Retro, Disco, Future” round where I based all three of my drinks on classic cocktails named after the aviation industry: The Aviation, The Kamikaze, and The Paper Plane. I just thought to myself, what if I could make my future drink hover? So I set out to work it out. B&C: What did you learn about drink innovation during the competition? J: I guess the thing I learnt about innovation is A) Australia is way ahead of the pack globally, and B) sometimes thinking outside of the box/drink is more innovative – there is rarely an ingredient that hasn't been used before, instead think about new techniques in drink creation and presentation. B&C: What was the most important take away about service? J: I’ve always respected mise en place but it wasn't until I had to prep and organise 20 unique cocktails to be presented overseas that I truly appreciated its importance. Be prepared for anything. Take two of everything, prep everything beforehand, and bring ingredients to make prepped items again should the worst happen. Bubblewrap everything. Bubblewrap again. Give yourself double the amount of time you need before your challenge. The same thing should be applied to all service. Minus the bubble wrap. B&C: What do you think drinkers are looking? J: Drinkers are definitely looking for the wow factor. Create an element that makes the person sitting down the bar lean over and ask what was ordered – a unique colour, unusual garnish, theatrical preparation technique, or the aroma billowing out. What do you think bars sometimes get wrong when innovating? J: The beauty of our industry is the huge variety in bar styles, I don't think anyone gets anything wrong when it comes to innovation. I do feel though that sometimes bars can often alienate a customer by a miscellaneous ingredient, or technique that a customer will have no idea about. Make sure when writing menus things are described simply. Finally, always perfect and practice innovative techniques before rolling them out. Don't use your guests as guinea pigs. Any final thoughts on innovation? J: All innovation is good innovation and that is what makes Australia a market leader. Aussie bartenders are constantly trying new things and it’s a melting pot culture. The only limit is your imagination, if you want to go and make a drink fly, go ahead and work it out. Think big.

bars&clubs 9

OPENINGS

ROSIE CAMPBELL’S With his second venue now under his belt, we chatted to Graham Cordery about what he had learned by the second time around, and what inspired his latest Caribbean-themed venture. Where did the concept come from? I actually went to Jamaica to relax and unwind from the busy hospo life here in Sydney. I loved the place so much I wanted to bring a piece of it to life in Sydney. The concept blends East Coast America with Jamaica, as strange as that sounds – although NYC is always my gateway to the Caribbean, just a three hour flight, so the concept is a blend of these two destinations that are close to my heart. What is it about Caribbean-themed bars that make them so popular? I think we all need a getaway now and again, and to do so without leaving Sydney is ideal. How did you choose the location? Surry Hills has been good to us. The Soda Factory now in its third year of trade and showing no signs of slowing down, so I wanted to stay local with our second venture – the venues are more manageable that way as we’re still a relatively small operations team. With the site for Rosie’s being on a corner position on Crown Street, it was perfect for what I had in mind, especially with the concept being so vibrant. In contrast to The Soda Factory’s hidden entrance, it’s quite hard to miss us this time around. What did you learn from opening The Soda Factory that helped you to open Rosie’s? Opening The Soda Factory with no experience of refurbishing and opening a venue presented some big challenges, but it was a concept that developed right through to the time that we needed to open the doors. That remains part of The Soda Factory’s charm as it is quite unique and full of character – it could have gone horribly wrong but it just works and it’s clear a lot of love has gone into the details, which carries over to

the feel of the venue and customer experience. This time around I learned from that and the whole concept was mapped out months in advance, however I always tried to keep in mind the off-centre touches that make The Soda Factory special. I don’t want to lose that charm or for the venue to be over-designed. How important is getting the food menu right? Getting the food right for this concept is absolutely crucial, especially as currently there aren’t that many options or outlets for Caribbean food in Sydney. There’s an opportunity to bring something fresh to the market and I’ve really enjoyed putting a creative menu together with my head chef Adrian Poon, and Jessica Sly (formerly of Rockpool consulting). What research has gone into the cocktail menu and what are some highlights? Industry-favourite Mike Enright has brought his wealth of knowledge and experience to develop Rosie Campbell’s cocktail and spirit menu. My favourites include our signature Rosie’s Coco Colada with Pampero Dark Rum infused with pimento, pineapple, Coco Lopez, sugarcane, lime, and banana served in a fresh coconut; and the Trenchtown Rock with Lairds Apple Jack, Angostura Bitters, lemon juice, orgeat and fresh sugarcane. For something more classic I head for a Floyd’s Old Fashioned, with Ron Zacapa 23 Year Old, Pedro Ximenez, molasses and bitters.

OPENINGS

NEW, REFURBISHED, REFITTED & RESTORED VENUES NOW OPEN AROUND AUSTRALIA.

10 bars&clubs

OPENINGS

HEARTS WILL BE BROKEN THE Everleigh’s Michael Madrusan has set up shop with Sebastian Reaburn, of classic Melbourne cocktail spots 1806 and Vue de Monde, to create a “classic good-time bar” that, in their own words, is “somewhere to drink after The Everleigh calls last orders”. Thus Heartbreaker has been born in the Melbourne CBD. In a departure from The Everleigh’s 1920s speakeasy style, Heartbreaker riffs on the “seedy, sexy glamour” of the “timeless drinking dens of Los Angeles”. The bar features both local and American craft beers on tap, while the spirits selection sways heavily in the direction of tequila, mezcal and whiskey. In a move away from the classy crystal cocktail service, Heartbreaker features Martinis, Old Fashioneds, Negronis and Manhattans straight from the bottle – care of The Everleigh Bottling Co – and poured over Navy Strength Ice Co ice. The bottled cocktails are available to take away too. Heartbreaker, 234 Russell St, Melbourne VIC

NOT A CARBON COPY DEAD Ringer, the much-anticipated second bar from the team that brought us Bulletin Place, has opened in Surry Hills, Sydney, on the site of former tapas bar Emmilou. It’s no surprise that co-owners Tim Philips, Adi Ruiz and Rob Sloan have created another exceptional drinks offering for their new venue. Just don’t expect Bulletin Place 2.0. The new venture has a very different design aesthetic – think polished townhouse slash diner – as well as a distinct focus on food. Cocktails are designed with food in mind, with the menu highlighting drinks appropriate for “before”, “during” and “after” eating. Drinks include T’Angelo Spritz, a citrus and quinine wine based aperitif; Pineapple Adonis, a blend of Fino sherry and rosso vermouth garnished with pineapple skin; and the Dixie Cup, a mix of vanilla-infused pisco, ruby port, egg whites and fizz. Fortified wines play a seminal role on the drinks menu, with port, sherry and Madeira featuring in four of the eight cocktails on the current list. Guests can choose from a range of sophisticated bar snacks such as creamed almonds, pork jowl terrine and beef tartare. Dead Ringer, 413 Bourke Street, Surry Hills, NSW

MILK & HONEY ALUMNI OPEN PEG LEG WITH everything from breakfast coffees through to late night cocktails and seafood, Peg Leg has taken over the space briefly occupied by Bottle and Beast in Pyrmont. The bar is the project of two ex-Milk & Honey bar entrepreneurs Manuel Alvarez and Collin Perillo, of bar consulting service the Toby Tin Society, along with Paul Burton, CEO of Burton Civil Engineering. The venue makes the most of the area’s seafaring roots with plenty of nautical touches in the decor and references to the seven seas on the menu and in the cocktail names. The bar is making its own cordials, syrups and cocktail bases, and features an array of fortified wines including port, sherry, and Madeira. Peg Leg, 11a Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont NSW

SWILLHOUSE STRIKES AGAIN SWILLHOUSE has confirmed that they will open a new Sydney CBD venue, teaming up with Dan Pepperell from the well-known 10 William Street restaurant. Going by the name “Hubert” the venue is apparently set to be a classic Euro-style restaurant, located on the site of the old Celestial Chinese Restaurant on Bligh Street. The Swillhouse team will of course handle the drinks menu, while Pepperell will be in charge of the kitchen. The fit out is rumoured to be following the style of that old restaurant you stumble across in the hills outside Rome when you’re happily lost one afternoon – so expect a lot of well-worn wood. And two bars. Hubert will reportedly be open around January, 2016.

bars&clubs 11

CLASSIC COCKTAIL

The

MARTINI Russ McFadden explores the origins of the world’s most ordered cocktail. MANY WORDS, FEW INGREDIENTS When I started thinking about this piece on the Martini I was super excited. “What a great drink”, I mused to myself, my only concern being how I could compress so many words into a short space. Ironic I thought, that a drink with the fewest of ingredients could stir up (pun intended) such a kerfuffle. Where to start?

MAKE MINE A “VANILLA, CHOC-ORANGE MARTINI”

RUSS' MARTINI GLASS: Martini INGREDIENTS: • 50ml punchy-juniper, export-strength gin • 15ml Amontillado sherry • 3 dashes orange bitters METHOD: Stir and strain into a glass. Finish with a citrus twist. Drink. GARNISH: Lemon twist

12 bars&clubs

Maria von Trapp would no doubt suggest the logical place to start would be the very beginning. To truly understand any subject matter, I find the best place to start is by first understanding the history and origin of your subject. However, spring is in the air and I am throwing logic out of the window and working from the middle, to the back then taking a huge lob out to the front. So let’s start by throwing out a few of my ‘favourite’ Martinis. I give you: The Apple-tini, Mitch Martini, Espresso Martini, Lychee Martini, Porn Star Martini, Flirtini, Vanilla ChocOrange Martini. I could continue, but before you stop reading and writeoff myself and/or this publication as stuck in the late 90s, let me explain by asking a question: What do these delightful candied, fruity, pseudo-beverages have in common? Well, aside from the fact they were on the menu at almost every bar in London and probably flying out the door of Melbourne’s Ginger 15 years ago, the other common denominator here is: they’re not actually a Martini. None of the above drinks are anything other than a mixed drink with the moniker ‘tini’ added as a suffix. So how the hell did this happen? What exactly is the Martini if not a category of cocktails in a ‘v’ shaped glass? I’m sure most of you would know that the term cocktail originally refers to a category of mixed drink specifically containing a spirit of any kind, sugar, water and bitters. These days

CLASSIC COCKTAIL

‘cocktail’ is used almost universally to describe anything more complex, or boozier, than a G&T. So does this suggest that a Martini is a vodka (or gin) based drink in a so-called ‘martini’ glass? Of course not, you scream. We all know the term has been frivolously and tenuously used to describe drinks that are anything but a Martini. The martini glass its self is another example of that misuse. One of the earliest sightings of the Martini in print comes courtesy of Harry Johnson’s New and Improved Bartender’s Manual (1888). “Stir up well with a spoon; strain it into a fancy cocktail glass”, Johnson tells us. No mention of a martini glass here.

Italian for French vermouth in the Martinez and we see a drink that is starting to resemble today’s dry Martini. Drinks certainly did start to become drier over the years following Johnson’s 1888 recipe, although the 1922 Martinez still called for a 1:1 ratio of vermouth to gin. By the latter part of the century however, Martinis were becoming so dry that vermouth levels of miniscule proportions were being called for. Churchill was said to have simply thought about France, or shone the light through the bottle of vermouth before imbibing a glass of cool gin, and the stories of Dean Martin imbibing frozen, undiluted gin, garnished with a Lucky Strike, abound.

HOW, WHEN WHERE – A HISTORY OF THE MARTINI

SHAKEN OR STIRRED

Working back to the beginning. We all know the Martini is very much gin stirred down – with a preferential amount of vermouth – to be cold, perfectly diluted and served with a citrusy twist or, if you must, an olive or three. Like most things that pre-date Myspace, the actual origins of this drink are fuzzy at best. Let’s face facts, we still debate the origin of drinks made less than 40 years ago. We may never quite grasp 100 per cent how something being mixed up 130odd years ago first came about, but one common assumption is the drink is an evolution of the Martinez, a gin variant of the Manhattan. The Martinez, as seen in print in 1884 in O.H Byron’s Modern Bartender’s Guide, was first thought to be mixed up for a lucky gold prospector in the town of Martinez in gold-rush California. Paid for with a nugget so large that the bartender felt compelled to offer a bottle of whisky as change. Indeed the Martinez, like the Manhattan, calls for sweet (or Italian) vermouth and in large proportions. This is quite removed from the dry (or French) vermouth we mix with today in ever decreasing proportions. As palates changed and different products became more available, we started to see drinks become drier. In 1922, Robert Vermeire’s Cocktails: How to Mix Them swaps out

A debate that will no doubt continue as long as the question of how much or little vermouth we should be dashing in our gin. I say gin because by definition a Martini is made with gin, and a kangaroo cocktail is made with vodka. Would you shake a Manhattan or a Negroni? I wouldn’t but if that’s how someone likes to drink their drink then let them be. As for James Bond? Well the British Medical Journal suggests that Bond’s preference for shaken was as he was “unlikely to be able to stir his drinks, because of likely alcohol induced tremor”.

WHAT’S IN A NAME? So how did we arrive at the name? Possibly taken from the use of Martini & Rossi vermouth, possibly a bastardisation of the name Martinez, martine was also bandied around briefly, and one (debunked) tale claims a bartender at the Knickerbocker Hotel in the early 20th century named Martini was to be credited. We may never know and frankly I’d rather worry about my next drink than lose too much sleep over the name.

BEST CONSUMED How do I take mine? Cold and a little wet thank you. You can’t get much cooler than LN2 which sits around a stingingly cold minus 200 degrees Celsius. If your local tavern chills your choice of spirit with liquid nitrogen, you’re probably sipping on one of the coldest tipples in town. Roosevelt Bar & Diner in Potts Point and both Eau de Vie in Melbourne and Sydney are dab hands with this method if you’re ever in the area. When I consume, I tend to opt for my Martini to be what modern standards would class as a little on the wet side. Use fresh vermouth, use good vermouth, treat it as you would any other wine and lastly, don’t be afraid to think outside the box a little. On that note, I leave you with my personal favourite ‘Martini’ (see left), inspired by my all too short time in Spain and by Pepe Ruiz’s Flame of Love Martini. b&c

TEQUILA

TEQUILA'S PEAKS AND VALLEYS

There are many distinctions to be made between highland and valley tequilas. Jacob Stern chats with those in the know to define the difference once and for all.

equila’s resurgence into the public eye has been well documented and explored. Its place as a crowd favourite has been solidified and stood the test of time (or, at least, a few years). How has it stayed at the top of the game for such a lengthy period? Why has it not been superseded by a new trend, a new shiny drink? The answer is found in its depth. Agave has turned out to be the plant to rival whisky’s many grains. This pineapple-shaped plant grown in the valleys and mountains of Central America has led to an industry boom that shows no signs of slowing down. Where once people spoke simply of tequila and Mexico, they now speak of tequila and mezcal, of Highland and Valley regions.

THE HIGHLANDS Highland tequilas, affectionately known as ‘Los Altos’, are typically lighter on the nose and ‘easier’ to drink. Citrus and floral flavour notes are often attributed to the higher levels of rainfall and cooler night climates found in the highlands. The staff from Barrio Cellar believe that “people who aren’t huge tequila fans can start with a highland to ease their way in” - as the fruity flavours are much more appealing to the less experienced palate. Alex McDowell, from De Vino Mezcal, explores the flavour profiles of highland tequilas in far greater depth, informing us that tequilas from this region “will offer tropical fruits such as banana or pineapple as well as mandarins, oranges

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and, when aged, a deep toffee and marmalade sweetness”. All of these lead to a far subtler drink, perhaps a reason for its popularity amongst newcomers to the tequila category. While there are many brands that produce highland tequilas with strong citrus flavours, there are some that focus on drawing out the sweeter notes. For Barrio Cellar’s bar manager Jerom Morris, highland tequila Corralejo Anejo is the perfect example, with “amazing aromas of oak and cocoa, an initial taste of caramel and cardamom, and a smooth full body finish and woody flavour that comes from the ageing process”.

– pinpointing “pepper and spice” as the defining traits of valley tequilas. There are many brands that produce tequila from valley agave plants, one of those being Herradura. Olivia Preston, of Herradura, echoes the sentiments mentioned above, and takes it one step further by specifying that the “agaves we grow are generally smaller than those from the highland region and, therefore, produce a more earthy, herbaceous tequila”. The flavours mentioned in relation to valley tequila all attract a more seasoned drinker – but that does not mean that you should undervalue the benefits of well representing valley tequila on your liquor lists.

VALLEY LIFE

OTHER FACTORS

Valley tequilas, sometimes referred to as lowland tequilas, are often pitched at the more experienced tequila drinker. It is McDowell who is quick to correct the misconception that valley tequilas are from lowland areas – pointing out that “the valley where Tequila Town is, sits at approximately 1100 metres. Just short of the height of Perisher (1600) and gaining on Mt Hotham (1800)”. Hardly a ‘lowland’ area. Once you have moved past the nuances of the terminology, you can begin to explore the flavour profiles traditionally offered by valley tequilas. The staff at Barrio Cellar discuss the fact that “the pineapples are a bit smaller from the valley – meaning there is less sugar and more of a spicy, herbal, earthy and vegetal quality with quite floral aromas”. McDowell offers a simpler description

While the region in which an agave plant is grown goes a long way to influencing the final flavour of a tequila, it is not the be all and end all. Other steps in the production process can have an effect on tequila’s taste – it is worth noting that, increasingly, companies are exploring and experimenting in these areas to create new and exciting drinks. McDowell runs through a long list of elements that can effect the final taste of a tequila. Anything ranging from the “tahona wheel through to the diffuser; brick or stainless ovens; what stills are used – whether they be stainless with copper jackets or full copper; their size; what fermentation tanks are used; yeast strains; and, of course, the wood used to age tequila”. With so many variables it is easy to see how tequilas

NONTEQUILA, TEQUILA

Cocktails The classic tequila cocktails have had a good run. Margaritas and Palomas have seen many different iterations. Here are five cocktails traditionally made with another spirits, given a tequila touch.

TEQUILA SOUR – Like a whisky sour, but with tequila. The lemon juice brings out the citrus notes in highland tequila, making the drink just that bit lighter than its whisky counterpart. THE TEQUILA NEGRONI – Adding tequila to the classic Negroni gives it a slightly sweeter hit. The white tequila on top of Aperol, red vermouth and orange bitters will be a crowd pleaser come summer. TEQUINI – This is just what you think it is, a Martini with tequila instead of gin. Use high quality tequila for this drink and you’ll have the punters coming back for more. JUAN COLLINS – This is the tequila version of the popular Collins drink. Add something sweet, some citrus, then top it up with soda. Take it a step further by matching an extract to the flavour notes of the base tequila – think caramel syrup with a caramel nosed tequila. BLOODY MARIA – Sure it sounds a bit lame, but everyone loves a Bloody Mary. Vodka can often be a bit harsh, swap it out for tequila and it will give your cocktail list that edge it’s been looking for.

BARRIO CELLAR

can have such vastly different flavours and noses – just as it is easy to see how they have maintained their popularity for such a long time. Put it down to a myriad of products with such individually distinctive tastes.

PERFECT PAIRS Tequila and cocktails go hand in hand like, well, tequila and cocktails. There is a mix for every occasion and for every season. Whether the sun is beating down outside, or its the middle of a freezing winter, there is a tequila cocktail to enhance the moment. The boom in Mexican restaurants has seen increasingly innovative cocktail creations, but there remains plenty of room for the classics. Have a look at the box out for a look at a range of non-tequila cocktails waiting for a tequila twist. In terms of region-specific cocktails it is very hard to go wrong. However if one is really seeking to take a cocktail menu to the next level, there are some flavour pairings that combine handsomely, and really elevate specific tequilas to a higher plane. Barrio Cellar’s policy is often to use “highland tequila with more citrus based cocktails – to accentuate the citrus flavours of the Margarita” for example. On the other hand they think a “savoury cocktail would generally be more appropriate with a valley tequila – or even a fennel based cocktail that would enhance the tequila’s flavours”. For every tequila lying on the shelf there is a cocktail to match. McDowell, ever the enthusiast, believes that “the more tequilas we can afford to have behind the bar, the more fun we are guaranteed to enjoy” – a statement that cannot be argued against. However, if your shelf is full, and you can only find space for one bottle, then “most of the team [at Barrio Cellar] picked Tromba Tequila for a cocktail tequila, because it is very balanced in a drink and has a lot of presence” – but when it comes to tequila it is certainly the more the merrier.

ALL IN ALL It is safe to say that tequila is here to stay. Its market share is growing, consumers are increasingly knowledgeable on all tequila related matters, and it is occupying a greater space in general public discourse. Making sure your establishment is well-versed in tequila will be well-appreciated by the paying public – not to mention that it is a fascinating topic in its own right. b&c

PH 1300 DRINKS

VANGUARDLUXURYBRANDS.COM

OPERATOR PROFILE

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s k o o r C y e r o C

OPERATOR PROFILE

Establishing and running one of the best beer bars in Australia is no easy feat. Corey Crooks discusses how he got into the industry and how to successfully maintain venue relevancy in a changing market.

he Grain Store Craft Beer Café is one of the best known and respected beer venues in Australia, with a reputation that is the result of the passion of its owner operators Corey and Kristy Crooks. The fact that it is located in Newcastle has never hindered Corey Crook’s business plans, and the venue has gone from strength to strength since it opened. The Grain Store boasts a tap list of 21 constantly rotating, 100 per cent independently owned and 100 per cent Australian brewed beers – making it one of the largest in the country. So it’s safe to say Crooks knows a bit about running a beer-centric venue, introducing craft beer to the unconverted, and the business of hospitality in general. “I was born into the industry I suppose,” says Crooks. “I’ve grown up with family in the industry and I’ve never been personally into mainstream beer. So I guess my journey was driven by my own personal preferences.”

CREATING A CONCEPT Crooks believes that it is important to stick to your guns in terms of the vision and concept of a venue in order to remain true to yourself, however the occasional tweak to remain relevant is sometimes necessary. “If we say ‘this is what we’re going to do’ it’s very important that that is what we do,” he says. Otherwise you can lose the respect and trust of your patrons. That said, there will come a time when a rethink could be warranted in order to stay relevant and keep up with your customers’ changing needs and attitudes. “We’re looking at a rebrand at the minute. We’ll still be The Grain Store but we’re looking to remove the “Craft Beer Café” tag,” says Crooks. “Really, what is craft beer? No one can really answer that, it depends on who you speak to. We’re more than that and we’re not pigeon-holing ourselves. Our consumers aren’t coming here to be seen and to be cool by drinking ‘craft beer’. It’s just beer now.”

LEARNING THE HARD WAY Crooks has been involved directly in the industry for the last 12 years, whether it be on-premise or in sales roles. Prior to opening The Grain Store he helped convert The Albion Hotel in Wickham from a very traditional suburban pub into one of only a few 100 per cent craft beer pubs in the country at the time. “There are a lot of challenges when you try to take an old hotel and have 12 taps that are rotating – cool rooms and those sorts of things just aren’t built. So that was certainly challenging,” he says. So when it came time to open his new venture, three years ago, Crooks made sure that everything was made exactly to spec and was capable of handling the scope of his beer vision. “You learn from it, like when we were setting up here, our cool room is one of the largest around. So it certainly helped knowing what we were going to do with the place before we opened. We made sure our back of house systems up to doing the job.” he says. “Our venue is purpose built to what we do.” And while many people see a space then create a vision around it, Crooks knew exactly which venue he wanted to get his hands on from the beginning.

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OPERATOR PROFILE

“I don’t want any egotistical, smartass attitude. It’s not about insulting people.” “It’s a venue that we had our eye on for a number of years,” he says. “It’s got a natural beauty and charm.” It’s also perfectly suited to being a beer venue - built by J.T Toohey (of Tooheys Brewery) in 1885 as a grain and keg storage facility – hence the name. “So as relevant as our name is to what we do today, it is also a throwback to the building’s history,” says Crooks. Punters always love a good story about the origins of products, having a story to tell about a venue concept or space is an extra level of engagement.

LOVE WHAT YOU DO Crooks makes no bones about the fact that he is in the industry because he loves it, and has a “passion” for beer and hospitality. “I’ve grown up with it in the blood, I almost literally grew up above a pub,” he says. “So hospitality is certainly in my veins, I just love it.” Crooks is recently back from seven weeks in Europe with his family, and maintains that he doesn’t ever feel like he is at a job, so returning hasn’t been a strain. “I don’t drag myself out of bed to go to work. That’s what happens when you genuinely have a passion for what you do,” he says. b&c

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TOP TIP: BEER EVENTS “We do our 4th of July event where we pay homage to American craft brewers and that’s our biggest day of the year. We do an Oktoberfest with styles that we struggle to move on the other 355 days of the year, but during that celebrations, we’re pouring lagers all the time,” says Crooks.

IT’S ABOUT MOVING STOCK NOT STROKING EGOS

NO BEER WANKERS PLEASE

One thing Crooks emphasises is that he knows what will move through his taps and he buys it. His venue isn’t a vanity project dedicated to 20 taps of double IPA. Crooks has learned the hard way that he can’t stock certain styles of beer – a major one is lager (outside of Oktoberfest). “We used to keep one of the taps spare for a lager but we had to face facts – we just can’t move the keg,” he says. “So we have light ales that tick that box anyway – like summer ales. They’re not lagers but they’re close enough that they can take that place.” Having a variety of styles on offer is also key – everything has to be balanced with customer tastes in mind. “As much as we rotate our taps we are mindful of what styles we have on,” he says. “Paciﬁc Ale is our best selling beer, but even in the middle of summer we’ll always be pouring a stout.”

So how does the venue train staff to tackle the occasional nonconvert who has never varied from their set mainstream brew? “One thing I am very adamant about is that I don’t want any egotistical, smartass attitude. I don’t call a Hahn Super Dry or a Tooheys New a bad beer – it’s just different to what we sell,” he says. “It’s not about insulting people and I suppose we see that a little too much in this industry with people being pretentious.” Crooks ensures that his staff are kept “grounded” and, despite their enthusiasm, they don’t get too “wanky” about the beers. And they are trained to guide their customers. “It’s about making sure that our staff have a starting point to guide the drinker to – ‘we don’t have a lager but we do have this summer ale’,” says Crooks. “We get asked ‘what do you like?’ It doesn’t matter. Everyone’s taste is different.” So having staff that know how to guide a customer toward something that will suit their personal tastes is very important. Staff are encouraged to splash a taster into a glass and offer it to a patron if they think it will suit their tastes. And if they hate it, great – the bartender has an excellent starting point to guide their customer to something they will actually love.

IN THE COOLER

NOMAD BREWING CO JETLAG IPA 6.0% ABV Brewed on the Northern Beaches of Sydney, this beer is brewed with a combination of pale and ale malts, with the addition of caramel malts. It features American and Aussie hops, including Vic’s Secret in the latest batches. There is also a few unique Aussie ingredients to finish it off, including dried finger lime peel to deliver a citrusy zing. Distributed by: ExperienceIT

STONE & WOOD GARDEN ALE 3.8% ABV This low alcohol, session beer was originally intended as the Stone Beer’s summer equivalent. The brew contained juniper berries instead of hops, paying homage to the way beer was brewed in the middle ages. That was until the brewers discovered the Ella hop, scrapping the juniper and upping the hops to accentuate the peachy roundness and gentle grapefruit smoothness of the new ingredient. Distributed by: Stone & Wood (02) 6685 5173

TEMPLE RYE HARD IPA 6.3% ABV This rye IPA-style beer is burnt orange in colour with a lacy, creamy head. The aroma is a blend of floral, herbal and citrus notes with a spicy, fruity finish from the addition of Bramling Cross and Santiam hops. The full malty flavour has hints of orange, mandarin and an earthy hop bitterness, which finishes dry and spicy from the addition of rye. Serve between 4-6 degrees Celsius to get the full flavours. Distributed by: Temple Brewing Co (03) 9380 8999

ENDLESS CIDER Craftily fermented with Champagne yeast using traditional artisan techniques. Endless' mission is to create a cider for those who ‘don’t like cider’ and obviously for those who already do. The apple cider has an ultra clean palate showing natural sweetness, fruit tartness and crunchy acidity. While the the pear version features a vibrant, semisweet palate, with the natural taste of pears and citrus fruit. Distributed by: Endless Cider (03) 9534 4485

HAHN RADLER 3.2% ABV Hahn has unveiled a new addition to their portfolio – Hahn Radler, which is cut with natural lemon. It is a fresh take on a traditional European Radler style (usually 50 per cent beer and 50 per cent lemon) with the Hahn brewers opting to reduce the natural lemon in the beer to 30 per cent, to better suit the tastes of Australians. As a natural result of this blend, the beer is also lower in alcohol than regular beers, light in colour with a mild lemon aroma and taste. Distributed by: Lion 1800 308 388

MONTEITH’S POINTERS PALE ALE 4.2% ABV Named for the settlers who followed the stars known as ‘The Pointers’, along with the Southern Cross, to find their way to New Zealand’s west coast. It features a blend of five New Zealand hop varieties – Green Bullet, Wai-iti, Moteuka, Rakau, and Kohatu – one for each star on the Southern Cross. The flavour profiles of the hops combine to create an upfront burst of tropical fruit flavour, with mandarin and peach getting a look in too. Cloudy in the glass, it has what, ale and Munich malts to round out the palate. Distributed by: DrinkWorks (02) 8383 0600

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THREE

FOUR

ONE

TWO

BEHIND THE BAR THE PRODUCTS EVERYONE IS TALKING ABOUT THIS MONTH

CHOYA CLASSIC

Choya is a type of Umeshu, which is a traditional Japanese liqueur made from ume fruit. A perfect balance between ume extract and alcohol is achieved by aging the whole fruit, with the stone still inside. The delicious tang of Umeshu comes from citric acid in the fruit, and the refreshing flavour stimulates the appetite. The addition of alcohol to the fruit during production means that the ume flavour can be extracted not only from the flesh and skin but also from the pit. It is this process which gives Choya Umeshu its unique fruity bouquet, with notes of almond and marzipan from the pit. Distributed by: Choya www.choya.com

2RANSOM OLD TOM

This is an historically accurate revival of the predominant gin in fashion during the mid 1800s. The recipe was developed in collaboration with historian, author, and mixologist David Wondrich. Its subtle maltiness is the result of

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using a base wort of malted barley, combined with an infusion of juniper, coriander, orange, lemon, angelica root and cardamom in high proof corn spirits. The final distillation is run through an alembic pot still in order to preserve the maximum amount of aromatics, flavour and body. Only the heart of the hearts, the very best portion of distillate, is retained. This is then aged in wine barrels. Distributed by: Savant Spirits (03) 9650 5203

3INK GIN

Royal blue in colour, the gin is infused with the butterfly pea flower, traditionally used in cuisine and as an herbal infusion. The 100 per cent natural floral ink is pH sensitive, changing colour to pink when mixed with tonic water, or lemon or lime juice. The botanical is more than just a pretty colour, adding a subtle astringency to the blend that leaves the palate crisp and clean. Another fourteen carefully selected organic botanicals round out the profile, providing depth and a marked citrus

character – these include locally grown lemon myrtle, Tasmanian pepper berries and fresh Australian Valencia orange peel. Distributed by: Husk Distillers info@huskdistillers.com

4DEAD MAN’S DROP

On the 2nd of November 1830, ten members of the infamous Ribbon Gang were publicly hanged for murder, bushranging and horse thieving. This was the first ever public hanging in Bathurst. Dead Man’s Drop evokes the spirit of that era, marrying barrel-aged rum with orange peel, vanilla and the Australian native flavours of Ringwood and cinnamon myrtle for a dark, flavour-filled rum from the distillers at Stone Pine. Distributed by: Nip of Courage www.nipofcourage.com

RHUBARB 5CHASE VODKA

The distillers at Chase slowly cook Herefordshire Rhubarb and then marinade it three times distilled Chase Original Vodka in a copper

pot still – the only UK distillery to offer a premium vodka that is made entirely from seed to bottle. The resultant spirit is then distilled a fourth time before adding macerated fresh rhubarb and filtering to leave a delicate pink colour. Chase Rhubarb Vodka captures the true flavour of carefully pressed rhubarb, achieving a natural scent of rhubarb and custard with the subtle sweetness of rhubarb on the palate, without using any artificial ingredients. Distributed by: Red Island 1300 673 362

CAFÉ 6PATRÓN INCENDIO

Spicy and sweet has long been a staple of Mexican cuisine, and an increasing culinary trend in Australia. Patrón XO Cafe Incendio is an innovative fiery-hot chilli chocolate liqueur. It combines the spicy, distinctive flavour of Mexican arbol chilli with the rich, decadent essence of Criollo chocolate, brought together with Patrón Silver tequila. The Chile de arbol is a small and slender Mexican pepper

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typically found in the states of Jalisco, Chihuahua and Zacatecas, characterised by its smoky and spicy complex flavour, and is the main component in many hot sauces. The Criollo chocolate in Patrón XO Cafe Incendio is produced in Mexico’s Tabasco region. Distributed by: SouthTrade (02) 8080 9150

Jalisco and the distillery is owned and operated by the Beckmann family, close descents of Jose Cuervo – the first producer of tequila. The Beckmann’s are the oldest dynasty of tequila producers, with over eight generations of agave farming and distilling experience. Distributed by: Drink Tank tim@drinktank.co.nz

7SESIÓN TEQUILA

GINSENG 8ZNAPS VODKA

Sesión is an Australian owned tequila that is sourced from one of the most respected agave farms in Mexico. Meaning “session” in Spanish, it rings true to its meaning by encouraging a new way of consuming the premium product over a longer period of time, rather than the fast experience of a shot. Sesión’s 100 per cent blue agave tequila is a reflection of its authentic Mexican roots, while also offering a fun Australian twist on the spirit. The product is made through an artisan small batch process following traditional methods to ensure a quality premium spirit. Sesión is sourced from Tierra de Agaves in

Interestingly, ginseng is not used to flavour and aromatise this vodka, in fact, you wouldn’t know it was there had it not been put in the name. Ginseng is simply added to enhance the gentle and smooth character of the vodka. The vodka itself is distilled over 100 times, and is made from slowly grown winter grain. Its water is natural, Swedish spring water that has been filtered through layers of sand and limestone for decades. It contains pure Panax Ginseng, which has a surprising ability to enhance the taste by smoothing out the bitter sting of the alcohol. Ginseng is the world’s most studied herbal remedy,

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having been used for over 5000 years as a way to relieve fatigue, and enhance general health – while no special effects from drinking the vodka are guaranteed the Ginseng is in there. Distributed by: DrinksRus 0409 041 813

HELLYERS ROAD 9 DISTILLERY’S PINOT NOIR FINISH Hellyers Road employs a gentle, crafted process to deliver a crisp, light-coloured and clean tasting single malt. Matured in timber casks the whisky range is bottled at 46.2% alcohol by volume to deliver optimum flavour with a subtle and fulfilling finesse. As a result Hellyers Road single malts do not require chilled filtering. A traditional maturing process is carried out by vatting and marrying in American whiskey or bourbon casks. The flavour characteristics are uniquely Australian and reflect the region – Australia’s island state, Tasmania. In 2013 Hellyers Road Distillery’s Pinot Noir Finish was recognised in

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blind tastings conducted at Whisky Live Paris as being Best New-World Whisky. The Original Single Malt Whisky is finished in pinot noir casks and a tantalising point of difference for single malt lovers. Imaginative and unique, this delightful spirit evokes all the complexities of a Tasmanian rainforest. Distributed by: Hellyers Road (03) 6433 0439

10MASSENEZ GARDEN PARTY

Massenez has launched a new flavour spray range, appropriately named, Garden Party. It includes a full range of vegetable and herbal distillates created with a help of a master perfumer distiller, From Grace, and will bring a strong touch of flavour to any cocktail. Very innovative, very simple to use and with an intense flavour. The flavours available are: basil, carrot, cucumber, rosemary, tarragon, thyme, horseradish, beetroot, red pepper, and dried tomato. Each spray is 100mL. Distributed by: Cerbaco (03) 9646 8022 b&c

bars&clubs 21

SASHA PETRASKE

R.I.P

SASHA PETRASKE

(1973-2015)

he bar world was stunned by the sudden passing of bar legend Sasha Petraske, who died in late August at his home in Hudson, New York. He was 42. Petraske and Milk & Honey, the bar he opened in the Lower East Side of Manhattan in 1999, are widely acknowledged as revolutionising the cocktail landscape, first in New York and then across the globe. Milk & Honey’s secret entrance and house rules paved the way for hundreds of speakeasy-style bars, its cocktails introduced a new generation of drinkers (and bartenders) to pre-Prohibition drinks and Petraske’s meticulous attention to detail made bartending again a respected pursuit, elevating it far beyond a job you did to pay your way through college. News of his death circulated quickly among the global drinks community, prompting an outpouring of personal stories and tributes. In the US, Jacob Briars, global advocacy director for Bacardi, spoke for many when he said, “Sasha Petraske managed, almost singlehandedly it sometimes seemed, to change cocktail culture in NYC, and around the world. “It would be no exaggeration to say that Milk & Honey was probably the most important bar of the last 15 years, and Sasha the most important, and reluctant, figure in the 21st century cocktail boom we still enjoy today.”

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In the UK, Jake Burger, owner of the Portobello Star and Jake’s Bar, echoed those words, saying, “Very few people, if indeed anyone, could claim to have had a greater influence on the modern cocktail landscape than Sasha Petraske.” Jonathan Downey, who opened Milk & Honey’s London venue with Petraske, tweeted: “He changed the way we drink and the way we behaved in bars.” Here in Australia, his influence is just as keenly felt, not least because he spent time in Melbourne setting up The Everleigh with former Milk & Honey bartender Michael Madrusan. Nathan Debritt recalls Petraske would visit the Kodiak Club regularly during that period. “Back then Lucien Sankey, Clinton Hor, Fred Siggins and I were insecure but impetuous. And the fact that Sasha from New York liked our bar, gave us confidence, it made us a little more proud of what we did and who we are.” The Everleigh was one of a string of highlyregarded bars Petraske helped create after making his name with Milk & Honey. A second Milk & Honey opened in Soho, London, in 2002; East Side Company Bar and Little Branch launched in New York in 2005; The Varnish opened in Los Angeles in 2009; and Dutch Kills opened its doors in Long Island the same year. Attaboy replaced Milk & Honey on the Eldridge Street site in 2013 while Milk & Honey moved to larger

premises uptown in the Flatiron District. It closed the following year when the landlord invoked a demolition clause in the lease but there were plans to find a new site for the bar. But for all the brilliance of Petraske’s subsequent projects, nothing could eclipse the excitement and theatre of the original Milk & Honey. The adventure began long before you’d even arrived, with a secret phone number required to make a reservation; then there was finding the place, which was marked with a small tailor’s sign outside; and there was Petraske himself, immaculately dressed in white shirt and braces, looking like he might once have served Al Capone. Pushing through Milk & Honey’s velvet drapes into the bar was like walking back in time. Seated at a tiny table, the sense of anticipation was palpable. There was no cocktail menu; you ordered a classic or the bartender offered a recommendation. Juices were all freshly squeezed, the ice was exquisite, there were chilled metal straws that cost $5 a pop. Back then, American cocktail culture was characterised by sour mixes, sweet apple martinis and frozen margaritas dispensed from machines, but that small bar in the Lower East Side made cocktails elegant and sophisticated once more. To read more about what made Sasha Petraske so pivotal – and to see his seminal House Rules – head online to Top Shelf Professional.

PRESENTED BY ST. AGNES

WINSTON CHURCHILL ONCE SAID:

“I HAVE TAKEN MORE FROM BRANDY THAN BRANDY HAS TAKEN FROM ME”. WHEN IT COMES TO MIXING CLASSIC COCKTAILS, ST. AGNES BRANDY HAS A LOT TO GIVE. bars&clubs 23

BLENDED WHISKY

UNDERSTANDING

Blends

There are a lot on misconceptions about blended whiskies out there. We talk to the experts to sort out just what a blended whisky is, and why the single malt snobbery is unwarranted.

HIROYOSHI MIYAMOTO, SUNTORY WHISKY GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR

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here is plenty of miseducation in the consumer and trade spheres about what exactly is the difference between a blended whisky and a single malt whisky. There is also no shortage of snobbery, though the “single malt” label is no guarantee of quality, in the same way that the “blended” tag is not a marker of certain inferiority. There are subtle differences between the styles of whisky according to Rachel MacDonald, brand ambassador for Chivas Regal in the UK, including the fact that blended whiskies have a base of grain whisky, which usually makes up the majority of the blend. “Grain whisky has a different production process and uses slightly different raw materials than malt,” she says. “It can be made from a mixture of malted barley and other grains including wheat, rye and maize.”

However, though she points out that grain whisky has a much lighter flavour, they are blended with malt whiskies to create the final product. “In terms of flavour, malt whiskies are defined by their region within Scotland and can vary depending on anything from the location of the distillery to the size and shape of its copper pot stills,” she says. “Generally they are more robust and characterful than grain and, as a result, blended whisky.” As a result of the slightly softer and lighter grain whisky component, blends are more approachable, easier to drink, and easier to mix into cocktails. According to Dan Woolley, national whisky ambassador for The Exchange, that gives blends a particular place on the back bar. “Blended whisky is designed specifically to

WHAT’S IN A NAME? Blended Whisky: A mixture of two or more whiskies, from different distilleries, that are bottled and sold as one whisky. Usually contains a mix of barrel-aged malt and grain whiskies. Single Malt: Not the product of a single batch or barrel of whisky, though this is a common misconception. Single malts are in fact a blend of whiskies from a single distillery. Single Barrel: The product of a single barrel of whisky, unmixed with whisky from other sources, making it a completely unique product. More common in American whiskies.

BLENDED WHISKY

be a more approachable drink, flavour-wise,” he says. “Singles malts are more of an intense, concentrated flavour, generally speaking.” Single malts are also covered by some legal constraints, as Luke Hanzlicek, ambassador for The Blend, points out. “By law, a single malt must be made in one distillery, made from malted barley and must be pot distilled,” he says. “A blended whisky is a marriage of single malts from different distilleries with the addition of a grain whisky, which has been column distilled.”

CONSUMER & TRADE MISUNDERSTANDINGS There is a certain level of snobbery that comes with the territory in whisky, and according to Woolley a lot of that has trickled down from the “single malt geeks” stoking the blend vs malts debate. However, he says that it is totally unnecessary. “One isn't better than the other, they're just different,” he says. “Neither could survive without the other, as blends account for more than 90 per cent of the whisky sales in the Scotch industry.” In that regard, the premiumisation of the market has a lot to answer for. “Everyone wants to be a connoisseur,” says MacDonald. “There is also

a bit of machoism that exists as the bolder, more robust flavours are typically found in malts, making them considered more of a ‘connoisseurs’ drink.” She also notes that price snobbery is misguided as, by its very nature, grain whisky is cheaper to produce in larger quantities, meaning that price tag alone cannot denote quality. “In some countries, like Australia, where standard blends were more prevalent, the image of blends was as a cheaper – and rougher – alternative to malts,” she says. “After all, single malts were double or triple the price, and then some, so it was a fair assumption to make. However, these young, grainheavy whiskies were nothing like some of the well-aged and beautifully crafted luxury blends on the market which play in a different ball game.” Thankfully, there is a growing level of education in Australia, especially in the consumer sphere. “I think the understanding has evolved since I started bartending 10 years ago,” says Hanzlicek. “Consumers used to be all about single malts with high age statements, but I have certainly noticed that many consumers are really starting to appreciate non-age statement and blended whiskies.”

Selling the story According to Woolley, the story behind the rise of blended whisky is a fantastic one that can be easily used across the bar when chatting to customers about their whisky options. “It’s complete with Whisky Lords, the failure of wine crops

CONSISTENCY IS KEY The skill of the master blender and his team is integral to maintaining the quality and consistency of each and every bottle. “Master blenders will have learned their craft over years and years, developing an encyclopaedic knowledge of the intricate flavours and characters that Scotch can have,” says MacDonald. “It is an extremely skilled and complex job.” She gives the example of Colin Scott. The Chivas Regal master blender can “nose” up to 2000 whiskies in any one week to make sure every drop is of the correct quality – of that 2000, only around four will actually be tasted. “The nose is the secret weapon of the blending team,” she says. “Hundreds more flavours can be picked up on the nose compared with the palate.” Hanzlicek relates that the master blenders for Suntory devote their lives to their craft, sometimes in an extreme manner. “The team of master blenders at Suntory try to preserve the integrity of their palate by avoiding spicy foods, not smoking, and not drinking heavily, even though they are evaluating around 200 cask strength whiskies in any one day,” he says. b&c

throughout Europe – due to a little bug – which led to the decline of brandy, and the ever-evolving art of the blend, a truly incredible skill in itself,” he says. MacDonald believes that most consumers are unaware that a single person can be in charge, and as such recommends opening that discussion with interested punters.

COLIN SCOTT, CHIVAS REGAL MASTER BLENDER

THE MILLION DOLLAR QUESTION So, can blends be as good, or better, than single malts? Woolley: One isn't better than the other. They’re both different whiskies. It’s like comparing a shirazcabernet sauvignon blend to a pinot noir and asking which one is the better wine. They are both wines, but completely different. MacDonald: Absolutely. A lot of the most expensive whiskies available are blends. Some are sold for over $200,000 a bottle, and include some of the rarest and most precious whiskies that exist. Many luxury blends come from a long history of master blenders whose skills are incredibly valuable and handed down through generations to maintain the integrity of some of the most famous brands. Hanzlicek: Definitely. While blended whiskies have different characteristics to a single malt, at the end of the day the blended whisky is still created using high quality single malts. It is up to the skills of the master blenders creating these whiskies and many of these guys are truly masters. They have amazingly sharp palates and olfactory sense and many devote their lives to crafting these balanced and complex whiskies.

“People find it astonishing that one master blender can be the guardian of the whole brand and be working with so many different whiskies to create the same result batch after batch, year after year,” she says. Hanzlicek concurs that the skill of the blenders is always a great tale, adding that product knowledge is an indispensable

part of assisting your customers. “I think it’s all in the education of the different types of whiskies that you have available in your bar,” he says. “Knowing the flavour profile, finish, mouthfeel and palate weight of the whiskies on the back bar will put you in a good place to recommend alternative blended whiskies to those guests ordering specific single malts.”

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THE SPEEDRAIL

THE STOLI MULE

PRESENTED BY STOLI

THE PREMIUM THE SPEED NEW RAIL GUARD We delve into the world of the evernecessary speed rail with bars from around the country to find out why you should have premium stock on your own speed rail.

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DING BAR

BRENT LAMBERTI TEN

BRENT LAMBERTI STOLICHNAYA GLOBAL BRAND AMBASSADOR Speed rails should be set up for two things: speed and efficiency. Ideally, when setting up your rail you should have it correlate to your cocktail menu. You'd like to have the bottles you need most often no more than an arm’s length away. For example, if I were making a Stoli Mule off the menu, I'd put Stoli Premium in the speed rail. In addition to the spirits from your cocktail menu, if you have the room, try to have at least one bottle each of the five major spirit categories: vodka, gin, rum, tequila, and whisk(e)y.

STOLI MULE

Glass: Copper mug Ingredients: • 2 parts Stolichnaya Premium Vodka • 4 parts Stoli Ginger Beer • Squeeze of fresh lime Method: Pour all ingredients over ice in a copper mug, and serve. Garnish: Lime wedge

THE SPEED RAIL PRESENTED BY STOLI

LOVE MACHINE, VIC Why is it important to have quality, well-known brands on your speed rail? People these days are visually stimulated. Having something they've seen through advertising or something they’ve seen on one of the reality shows makes them feel a lot more comfortable and feel like they’re being looked after. What do you look for in products for your speed rail? Quality and efficiency. Quality and recognisable brands are the first step. Then looking for something efficient as well. If it’s awkward to pour or to fit in the speed rail then you're just working against yourself What is your best advice on creating a speed rail range? Know your target market and cater to them. Know what your market is drinking and make sure you're keeping them happy...and drinking of course. How do you make sure staff are educated about the products that are on your speed rail in case of customer inquiries? Education is the key. We as managers at Love Machine are very proactive in making sure our staff know about all the products that they’re selling. Keeping them up to date with blogs, getting info off reps, encouraging them to do masterclasses. Knowing that it’s only going to benefit them in the future, they’re always pretty keen. Also, tastings never go astray.

DISTIL, SA Why is it important to have quality, well-known brands on your speed rail? A venue’s speed rail in essence is the foundation for a bar. A speed rail filled with well-known, high quality products reflects the bar mien and ultimately dictates the venue’s gravitas. What do you look for in products for your speed rail? The products in your speed rail are what your patrons will inevitably be drinking the most of so consequently you want to be proud of your first pour, knowing that you are providing a product that will be enjoyed by many. What is your best advice on creating a speed rail range? Knowing your customer is key when building a speed rail range. What you want in your repertoire will be dictated heavily by what they will consume. How do you make sure staff are educated about the products that are on your speed rail in case of customer inquiries? Having staff who are passionate about their role helps with the educating process; that coupled with information sessions gives a decent understanding of what we are pouring.

CLARENCE BAR, WA Why is it important to have quality, well-known brands on your speed rail? Brand recognition is important. Having a product that is of high quality and one the customer is familiar with will help boost sales. What do you look for in products for your speed rail? Quality products at competitive prices. These are the products that you will be moving the most. So making great GP on them is essential but you also want to be able offer your guests quality. What is your best advice on creating a speed rail range? Find products that fit the direction of the venue and maximise your GP. How do you make sure staff are educated about the products that are on your speed rail in case of customer inquiries? Staff training is vitally important. We conduct in house training and utilise any product masterclasses or seminars that we can, as well as getting reps in to pass on some knowledge of their products.

ASSEMBLY BAR, NSW Why is it important to have quality, well-known brands on your speed rail? I would say that it is the foundation for a good cocktail, a remarkable customer experience and a successful business. The drinks you pour or the cocktails you mix will only be as mediocre, good, or amazing as the ingredients you put in them. Just as with a good dish, a good cocktail begins and ends with the ingredients and will consistently turn out better. At the end of the day, it is our job to provide the best quality products whenever available at an affordable price. What do you look for in products for your speed rail? Quality, value and encouragingly recognisable names. We are running a business, and I believe that it is all about the fine balance between a profitable high-quality product and customers’ experience. What is your best advice on creating a speed rail range? We have to consider our target market, new trends, viability, affordability of brands, and profitability. Of all the elements within your concept, none defines it more than the type of brand or product you offer. How do you make sure staff are educated about the products that are on your speed rail in case of customer inquiries? Running a consistent staff training program with brand ambassadors and tastings. We incentivise staff as much as possible to attend workshops and masterclasses as it’s a must to provide the best customer experience.

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APERITIFS

t’s the classic Italian image from the golden days of the jet set at the beginning of the 20th century – white outfitted ladies and gents reclining on terraces in the European summer, sipping all manner of aperitif drinks before wafting off to a late and leisurely dinner. Luckily the classic tradition is spreading outside of period films and into an antipodean

bar near you, especially as the warmer months begin. According to John Gakuru, of Think Spirits, Negronis are already a hit so building on that with twists is a simple road to spreading the tradition. “It’s still a relatively new idea for Australia and it seems that less is more when it comes to an aperitif,” he says.

APERITIF HOUR AT SAINT URBAN IN MELBOURNE

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That idea is backed by Martin Pirc at Saint Urban, where they have fully embraced the concept for their customers, playing with the classics with great results. “Classic aperitifs always sell best,” he says. “Campari is an easy sell as it is so versatile – mix with orange juice or soda, or in a classic Negroni. Aperol sales have been very strong, particularly the Aperol spritz (in our case the Saint Urban Spritz) probably due to its softer, bitter/sweet characters.”

The warmer months make cocktails that sound light and refreshing inherently more appealing – Sacha Leonard, Double Happiness.

APERITIFS

DEFINING APERITIFS

It’s important to note, says Sacha Leonard, from Double Happiness, who took out the Welcome Drinks section at this year’s Diageo World Class Australia, that although the aperitif class includes many boozy classics such as the Negroni or bijou, when aperitifs are spoken about as a current cocktail trend the term refers more to “lighter, cleaner, loweralcohol cocktails”.

WHAT’S TRENDING? The world falling in love with the concept again, means a resurgence in a lot of classic wines, liqueurs and spirits, according to Andy Harris, of HMH Beverages. “Globally we are seeing a massive resurgence of vermouth and aperitifs as they are a low in alcohol but still with the complexities and flavours of some cocktails,” he says. “Looking at some of the bigger global distributers we can see that they are now starting to put

some bigger budgets behind some of these aperitifs – most notably Lillet and Aperol which means that the data and trends are starting to be realised in Australia.” On a bartending front, Leonard notes there are three distinct aspects to the new trend. “Base spirits are being replaced by alternatives that have lower alcohol but with a high complexity of flavours – like Fino and Amontillado Sherries, vermouths, quinquinas, dry rieslings, or Amari,” he says. “Secondly, fresh, seasonal, fruits and vegetables are being used to lengthen smaller serves of base spirits to make fruity or vegetal cocktails that are both refreshing and substantially complex.” As an example he explains that fresh beetroot juice brings out the savoury qualities of white rum, while the white rum enhances the sweetness of the beetroot juice in turn. Finally, he relays that flavour modifiers such as bitters, shrubs,

Common in European cultures, what exactly is the function of an aperitif? Traditionally, an aperitif is a drink that stimulates the appetite before a meal. Usually with clean, bitter flavours that don’t overwhelm the palate, and with flavour profiles that tend to make you salivate in anticipation of your meal and so encourage your appetite. “Aperitifs should either be dry, tart, lightly bitter, or have a delicate sweetness to them,” says Leonard. “Hence both sweet and dry vermouths, as well as lighter Amari, perform the function of an aperitif.” Pirc also notes that the aperitif category is home to a versatile range of products that can also be used to create interesting nightcaps.

THE USUAL… OR NOT A straw poll of bartenders returned the nonsurprising result that pretty much everyone drinks Negronis as their favourite aperitif – with the exception of the occasional Aperol spritz or gin and tonic. However, there are plenty of ways to think outside the classics that aren’t complicated and will have your customers coming back for more. Gakuru: A Hanky Panky (very similar to a Negroni, except Campari is replaced with Fernet-Branca) or Fernet-Branca, neat, (it was originally created as a stomach tonic and is perfectly suited to being an aperitif) are my favourites. I do love a Negroni too, but my preference is for it to be made with Carparno Antica Formula to add a beautiful rich texture. Harris: There are too many to pick from but I like a La Quintinye Rouge [red vermouth] and ginger ale with fresh lime, or a simple La Quintinye Blanc [white vermouth] served with no ice, just in a wine class. Leonard: The Negroni royale – a Negroni topped up with sparkling wine, or a Negroni sbagliato, but topped up with gin. The former should ideally be accompanied by cheese – that’s called a Negroni royale with cheese. Pirc: I think Suze, a bitter aperitif from France with a particularly strong flavour of gentian root, is a great drink. Personally I find it too bitter on its own so serve it with a dash of lemonade and orange slice for a deliciously refreshing aperitif.

T R A D I T I O N A L LY U N C O N V E N T I O N A L France isn’t just a country; it’s a state of mind. An attitude, a style, a culture. Uniquely crafted from grapes, realised through ten botanicals – including the rare vine flower – G’Vine gin is the quintessential expression of unconventional thinking, from grape to glass.

For Australian distribution visit HMHBeverages.com or call +61 412 610 473 Drink Responsibly

bars&clubs 29

APERITIFS

tinctures, teas, oils, mists, smokes, and broths are all being used to add a satisfying layer of complexity to cocktails with only a few ingredients without having to significantly bump up the price or alcohol content. “These are often homemade to allow more control over the flavours in house cocktails and create a point of difference with distinctive ingredients,” he says.

MENU PRESENTATION Key to upselling on aperitifs is the menu presentation, and Gakuru says that while he has seen many methods around the world his personal favourite labels drinks as “Before. During. After”. “It takes away the need to know whether you like vodka, rum, gin, tequila etc.,” he says. “This style of layout plays well to a patron’s occasion, rather than needing to know what should be drunk when.” Leonard concurs that people have moved beyond searching for drinks via a base spirit. “Help them choose drinks based on broader flavour profiles, or occasion, or the time of day,” he says. “It makes sense to present your menu in order of when drinks are meant to be consumed – aperitifs, digestifs, revivers, and nightcaps.” Pirc reinforces that it is important to arm the customer with information that will assist them in making the right choice. “Include a brief description of the flavour profile – bitter, bitter/sweet, herbal, etc – as it will almost certainly create a level of trust with the venue from the customer’s viewpoint,” he says. b&c

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TOP TIP: VALUE ADD Building on the idea that Australians prefer a “less is more” approach, Gakuru believes that awareness has definitely grown, and not just among customers. “It’s pretty common to find a Negroni on most decent cocktail menus, and bartenders are also choosing lighter, drier cocktails as their own preference when they go out,” he says. According to Andy Harris, aperitifs also provide the ideal bridge for customers starting their night out. “You just need to have your staff recommend and suggest options,” he says. “I think for an educated punter they are a perfect segue into a fine cocktail or tall drink.” And if you have someone not as familiar with the concept, educating them on the ritual of the palate cleanser/aperitif will show them that they have options outside of beer or wine before they move onto a stronger cocktail. That said, Leonard believes that awareness is definitely on the rise. “As restaurants are open later and sittings are pushed back to accommodate more diners, a higher proportion of trade is now occurring before dinner, so the aperitif is becoming a more distinctive feature of any night out,” he says. A lower price point is also a great selling feature. “If the aperitif cocktails available are a few dollars less than the booze-heavy options, they will pretty much sell themselves - a small drop in price helps a lot in pushing cocktails, especially as guests are used to seeing cocktail prices increase with an increase in the quality – and cost – of base spirits being used. Pirc believes that awareness of traditional drinks like a spritz or a Negroni is an excellent starting point to encourage customers from. “Customers are generally more aware of the more popular drinks so, alongside these, offering a diverse range of more obscure options may be enough to entice the customer towards flavours with which they may be less familiar.”

THINK LOCAL While European inventions always spring to mind when aperitifs are discussed, there is plenty of local innovation around the category as well. Local spirit brands are getting into the act, designing specific predinner cocktails around their portfolios – a blessing for the more unique spirits that are starting to appear. One such example is the Inkwell Martini, the invention of the team behind the rather unique Ink Gin that launched at Top Shelf back in August. The gin was crafted for martinis – the citrus notes and pepper berry are emphasised – and the bold blue colour, care of natural botanicals – is certainly a talking point.

THE INKWELL MARTINI Glass: Martini Ingredients: • 60ml Ink Gin • 10ml dry vermouth • Finger lime, to garnish Method: Fill cocktail glass with ice and set aside. Fill mixing glass with ice, add vermouth, stir and strain. Pour Ink Gin over vermouth-laced ice in mixing glass and stir until chilled. Discard ice from cocktail glass. Strain martini into chilled cocktail glass, garnish and serve. Garnish: Finger lime caviar and finger lime slices.

MENU TIP: FOOD MATCH The category is a great value add for venues with bar snack menus or even more extensive food offerings. “If a venue offers food, aperitifs can be sold to match small, early evening or late night dishes, or to guests that are grazing on smaller dishes throughout the evening – the cleaner flavours naturally match light dining, and will complement rather than overwhelm delicate dishes,” says Leonard.

Head to our website (www.professional.topshelfshow.com.au/category/features) to hear more about aperitifs from Australian bartender, and New York bar owner, Naren Young. He venue, Dante, is famous for its aperitifs – especially its Negroni menu – and he presented on the topic at this year’s Top Shelf.

er m m u S Beer

BEER

elling beer in summer might seem like shooting fish in a barrel, however, it’s time to think outside the box. In recent years the domination of cider in the market has seen a shift away from traditional summer tipples like lager. That said according to Glenn Harrison, head brewer at Melbourne’s Temple Brewing, there are plenty of ways to mix things up on your beer list – without discounting the traditional lighter styles. “I think diversity in beer offerings is the big change that you can easily make,” he says. “I actually feel that lagers and pilsners can be exciting. I think we will start to see a shift towards craft-brewed pilsners. I also would love to see the people embrace wheat beers especially hefewiezens. They are such a perfect match for the warm Australian summers.”

THE DARK SIDE OF SUMMER And before you discount dark beers entirely, summer is an ideal time to change your own as well as your customers’ perception of what a dark beer can be. According to Michael Vousden of Asahi, not all dark beers are brewed equally and they don’t have to have the same stigma of being too heavy and too stodgy for summer drinking. It really is about changing people’s perceptions and getting them to think about summer beers differently. Harrison believes that dark beers are more popular now than they have ever been.

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BEER

“I think people are realising there is more to dark beers than just Guinness,” he says. “Saying that, they will obviously slow down a lot in the warmer months, but this may be a good time for people to look at other dark beers such as black lagers or dunkleweizens.”

BEER & FOOD MATCHES Beer and food matches may invoke the image of hearty stews matched with ales, and rich chocolate puddings matched with stouts, however there is a whole world of lighter matches out there to be explored. And plenty are small and easy enough to pop on a bar food menu. Harrison recommends experimenting to find your favourites, though there are some classic starting points like lagers with spicy Asian food, or hefeweizen with charcuterie. “But more importantly try different styles with different food, such as IPA with pumpkin pie or pork rib and sour plum jam with a pilsner,” he says. Traditional lagers and pilsners make a great accompaniment to seafood such as sashimi or ceviche, and other fresh Australian seafood according to Vousden, while dark lagers can take the place of stout when pairing with oysters.

BEER COCKTAILS While there always seems to be a bit of reticence toward using beer in cocktails, there are plenty of ways to get involved. “There are some creative bartenders out there,” Vousden says. “I have seen a Japanese michelada that was quite interesting.” One such example of the Japanese twist on the Mexican classic was created for Tales of the Cocktail a number of years back by Matthew Bax, renowned bartender and owner of Bar Economico, Bar Americano and the newly opened Bar Exuberante in Melbourne, and Ryan Clift, the chef behind the world-famous Tippling Club in Singapore. It features a michelada mix with distinctively Japanese elements – blend together 1 cup yuzu juice (substitute lemon juice), 85 grams wasabi, 1 cup soy sauce – a Togarashi spice mix rim, and a can of Japanese beer (simply pour two teaspoons michelada mix (soy/ wasabi/yuzu) into rimmed glass, then top with beer) for its unorthodox yet tasty result. It should be noted that brewers aren’t always keen on their beers being adulterated in cocktails. “As a brewer I produce a beer how I want it to be enjoyed,” says Harrison. “To me it is no different to how a malt whisky producer would feel when someone puts coke in a 21 year old whisky or someone adding lemonade to good bottle of wine.” b&c

EIGHT BEER STYLES TO EXPERIMENT WITH THIS SUMMER BERLINNER WEISS – sour beers are all over the craft beer scene in the US and are certainly worth exploring, especially in summer when the low alcohol level and refreshing sour fizz make it the perfect late afternoon sunshine beer. The lightness of the style make these beers a great aperitif style drink on a hot evening.

SAISON – while not a new style on the beer scene in Australia, saisons – with their fruity, yeast driven flavours – make for great summer alternatives to a lot of very hoppy beers on the market (although India saison is a burgeoning style that does admittedly feature a lot of hops). Light on the palate but with plenty of depth, the style also matches well with cheese.

WITBIER – the Belgians really do know what they’re doing when it comes to brewing, and this style of wheat beer is no exception. Liberally dosed with coriander and orange peel – as well as any other spices the brewer feels like putting in (cloves, nutmeg and allspice are examples) – these beers are light in colour, cloudy and liberally carbonated for perfect summer drinking.

US WEST COAST LAGER – got an IPA or pale ale loving crowd regularly swinging through your venue? Challenge their preconceptions of what a lager can be with an American version of the style (though there are some excellent Kiwi versions too). Heavy on the hops, balanced on the malt, and light and crisp from the use of lager yeast, these beers are very refreshing and packed with flavour.

INDIA SESSION ALE – everything you love about a classic IPA without the massive alcohol level that can make your customers a little too sleepy in the summer sun. While this isn’t technically a ‘beer style’, it’s becoming more popular among brewers who are looking to cater to all facets of the market.

DARK LAGER – it might look as dark as sin, but these brews are light on body and deliciously crisp on the palate. They make a great alternative for those who love malty ales but aren’t keen on a beer served at 6-8 degrees Celsius on a 40 degree summer day. Serve them well chilled and watch your punters fall in love.

FRUIT LAMBIC – the fruit driven, sour power of these beers make them both perfect dessert accompaniments as well as great summer drinking options. The traditional Belgian style is wild fermented with either raspberry or cherry, giving the brews a shocking pink colour, as well as a terrific tartness. They’re great gateway sours as any potential “barnyard” funk is minimised.

GOSE – not for the faint-hearted, this salty and slightly sour style has been making waves in the US and can now be found occasionally in Australia – Willie the Boatman does one called Old Salty. The style comes from the eponymous town in Germany where the water table was ruined by salt, making all the beers distinctly briny in flavour. Grab a bottle or two for your more adventurous clientele.

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CHRISTMAS PLANNING

THINGS TO KEEP FRONT OF MIND

Christmas IS COMING

We We spoke spoke to to the the team team behind behind the the successful successful bar bar and and pub pub empire empire Solotel Solotel to to get get their their tips tips for for what what you you should should be be doing doing to to be be prepared prepared for for the the upcoming upcoming festive festive season season infl influx ux of of functions functions and and revellers. revellers.

1. BE PREPARED It’s really important to have a functions manager, or centralised point of contact, someone who can relay all the relevant information to any potential function clients and follow up with them. Have your menus sorted as soon as possible, as many companies will look for function spaces from even as early as the end of the financial year. It’s also really important to have great internal communication so all staff know exactly what is going on leading into function season. Be planned, be flexible and expect the unexpected.

While Christmas parties are fun and a chance for most people to cut loose, there are plenty of things that need to be kept front of mind with staff, coming into the festive season. It’s essential that all policies regarding occupational health and safety are up to date and communicated to staff – while the guests may feel that dancing on the tables is an appropriate end to their evening, it’s the staff’s job to help keep a lid on potential safety issues. As always, non-alcoholic drink options should be included in functions packages, and make sure that enough food has been ordered by the company booking the party to comply with all normal responsible service of alcohol standards. Make sure any people who book are well aware of the start and finish times – as well as the potential for drinks tabs to run out – and also float the potential idea of them arranging transport for their staff away from the venue at the finish of the event. While it’s by no means obligatory to inform people of public transport options, it can help with risk minimisation at the end of a long evening.

2. ORGANISE YOUR PACKAGES FOR MAXIMUM RETURN Streamline everything: food menus and drink packages especially. And remember to cater for all types of functions and budgets. Be flexible by having gluten free and vegetarian options as this is really important with any function package offering.

3. THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAIL As November and December are known for being the busy period it is essential to be organised with your functions. Have all the details confirmed prior to the event so on the day everything can run smoothly and efficiently. Communicate with the client to ensure their experience is a positive one and be clear on letting them know the requirements/restrictions of the venue.

4. SHOULD YOU THEME YOUR COCKTAILS? It’s a nice add on, but generally not a necessity. That said, it’s a really lovely touch to have various Christmas decorations out for any functions. If you want to go down that path, spiced cocktails (spiced rum, cinnamon, cloves etc) generally sell well over the festive period, and shared cocktails – like punches or jugs – as well as bubbles are always a winner. Additionally, offering various companies who book a Christmas function at your venue a complimentary bottle of wine/ champagne or a round of cocktails on arrival is a good way to entice people to your venue.

5. STELLAR SERVICE IS ESSENTIAL It’s incredibly important to give your best service at functions as it’s your time to shine. Plus if you do a great job the companies will hopefully book early and be back the following year.

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TOP SHELF WRAP UP

With brands, members of the trade and punters coming from all around the country, Top Shelf 2015 was a packed two days of sampling, presentations and networking.

op Shelf, the boutique drinks festival which took place in Melbourne on 8-9 August was labelled a success by organisers, exhibitors and attendees. Across Saturday and Sunday around 6,000 people came through the doors at the Royal Exhibition Building in Melbourne, a number that is significantly up on last year. Festival organiser, and bars&clubs publisher, Paul Wootton says that the show is definitely growing and gaining traction, with a huge number of trade attendees alongside the general public. “We got really positive feedback from both visitors and exhibitors,” he says. “You could just see there was a great level of engagement from the visitors with the stands and a lot of interest in learning about new products and premium products.” There were also plenty of laughs at the show, with the Egg & Bar Spoon Race and the State Vs State cocktail competition gathering crowds to cheer on their favourites and heckle the opposition. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Victorian team took out the latter competition (admittedly it was by default as they were the only team to present the judges with a palatable drink). The show also featured an extensive program of presentations and seminars on many different aspects of the industry, with some sessions full to overflowing – like the Gin Queen sessions – and a large number turning out to hear from local and international bartending and hospitality experts such as Naren Young, Jason Crawley, Charlotte Voisey, and the team behind PDT.

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“The How To Open A Bar talk was really well attended as was the How To Write A Profitable Wine List, which was presented by David Lawler from the Rockpool Group,” says Wootton. “It just shows there is a real appetite for knowledge, the show is not just about going to drink – there is a real focus on education at the show.” Wootton added that he has been inundated with positive feedback from visitors, exhibitors, and presenters alike. Brands and distributors such as Nip of Courage, Gage Roads Brewing and Beam Suntory (at the Laphroaig stand) all expressed their complete satisfaction with the event, while bartender and session moderator Russ McFadden passed on his own praise, stating that he had a great response from attendees during the presentations he took care of. The Solotel Group also praised the event directly, after a group of their managers and staff travelled down from Sydney to specifically attend the event in a visitor capacity – Jeremy Shipley was also on the How To Open A Bar panel. Given the success of the event, planning is already underway for next year, with Top Shelf 2016 set to expand even further on this year’s event. “We made a couple of changes to last year’s show, we focused more on the presentation areas this year and the feedback we got on those was really good,” says Wootton. “So overall we’re really pleased with how it went, we’ll make a couple more tweaks next year, but we’re happy with how well the show was received.”

THE CROWD INSIDE THE ROYAL EXHIBITION CENTRE

FRED SIGGINS IN THE BUNDABERG TASTING ROOM

TOP SHELF WRAP UP

“We came again this year because our business exploded after last year. I’m so happy to endorse this show because it’s been honestly so good to us and our business. We don’t have the big budget that other big companies have. I’ve got so many calls from little guys and I just say pool whatever money you’ve got and get a stand and you won’t regret it. It’s just about trying your best to put it all together, you don’t have to have multi-million dollars like the big companies, you just have to be a part of it.” – Kathleen Davies, Nip of Courage.

LEARNING GIN DISTILLATION WITH MCHENRY'S MASTER DISTILLER, WILLIAM MCHENRY

A'S BACK 666 VODK

BAR

THE BUNDABERG BAR

“Top Shelf has been very good with lots of customers to build the brand image, it’s a great setup and a great venue.” – Shinji Inaba, Choya bars&clubs 37

TOP SHELF WRAP UP

THE SOMERSBY CIDER BUS

THE GIN

“This is our first trade show, we only launched a few weeks ago so we didn’t really know what to expect when we came here but we have just about sold out. In fact I think in about an hour or so we won’t have any stock left, so we are keeping a few bottles so people can at least taste it.” – Paul Messenger, Husk Distillers (on day one of Top Shelf ).

QUEEN MONKEY

SHOULDE R'S WORL SMALLEST D'S BAR

JIM AND JEFF FROM PDT TALK COCKTAILS ON THE MAIN STAGE

“We had to stop doing tastings because we used up all of our pre-batch cocktail, we had to batch more during the service and there was just a sea of people, non-stop all day.” – Luke Hanzlicek, Laphroaig Whisky

SUMMER DRINKING BROUGHT TO YOU BY CHOYA

CHOYA WHO? Choya is responsible for the development of traditional homestyle Japanese ume fruit liqueur around the world.

WHAT IS UME FRUIT? The ume is a unique tart fruit, similar in shape to apricot and in smell to ripe peach. It is an integral part of Japan's culture and plays a central role in Japanese cuisine and is believed to be beneficial in the health and well-being of the Japanese people.

WHY SHOULD VENUES BUY CHOYA? Thanks to continuous research and development of ume fruit with local Japanese growers, Choya continually strives to deliver the ultimate in authentic and delicious ume liqueur for customers of all ages to enjoy. For bartenders and cocktail lovers, Choya is very versatile and perfect for mixing into all kinds of cocktails and drinks. The liqueur adds a unique, tart taste to the flavor profile

– thanks to abundant natural acidity – as well as a wonderful aroma to any drink creation.

HOT TREND IN JAPAN – UME SUMMER DRINK To keep cool and refreshed during hot summer days, a popular way to drink Choya in Japan is by simply mixing it with sparkling water. Simple yet incredibly delicious, Choya Soda delivers immediate refreshment and enjoyment from the first sip.

bars&clubs 39

TOP SHELF WRAP UP

“Top Shelf has been a really good festival, there’s a whole different clientele that we probably haven’t reached before to be honest. Seventy five per cent of people hadn’t heard about our brewery before so it’s been good to just get a few out there in people’s hands.” – Steve Finney, Feral Brewing Company.

PETER BIGNELL CHARRING BARRELS

SAMPLES IN THE TASTING ROOM

ON T SPIRITS AN CRAF E AUSTRALI H NIP OF COURAG IT W SHOW FUN WITH

DAVID LAWLER DISCUSSES BUILDING A WINE LIST

“I was down here last year just as a punter and it was really great but this year it’s just on another level in terms of the variety of stuff that’s going on, it’s awesome. It’s our first trip out of Sydney so we loaded up the van and brought down whatever we had.” – Will Edwards, Archie Rose. 40 bars&clubs

RELAXING W

ITH SOME SA

MPLES

N ESTATE

APPLETO

TOP SHELF WRAP UP

EXPLORING

LEY

SPIRIT AL

UBER BAR TOOLS BROUGHT SOME FLAIR

INK GIN LAUNCHING THEIR PRODUCT

TOP SHELF BOUTIQUE DRINKS FESTIVAL COMES TO NEW ZEALAND

“My first time was this year and I loved it. I took my sister who was visiting from overseas and she enjoyed every minute of it. Will definitely go next year and take more of my friends along. Great atmosphere and the venue was perfect.” – Charlotte, Brunswick

Top Shelf will be travelling to Auckland from 26-28 June 2016 as a partner of Fine Food New Zealand. Fine Food New Zealand has a strong foodservice heritage in New Zealand and is the country’s largest hospitality and retail event with over 6,400 attendees in 2014. With a massive 400 square metres within Fine Food New Zealand, Top Shelf will be offering over 25 stands dedicated to the local liquor sector to present their products to the foodservice and hospitality trade. There will also be seated presentation area which will include Masterclasses, product launches and a ‘Fight Club’ mixology challenge.

WE WOULD LIKE TO THANK THESE FANTASTIC BRANDS FOR PROVIDING STOCK FOR THE PRESENTATIONS: T E Q U I L A

D I S T I L L E RY

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gon

arra

d ry ied Re er hyme arrot Beet Rosema Dr mato asil o B C pp T T Pe

bars&clubs 41

THANK YOU FOR BEING A PART OF SOMETHING SPECIAL

PRIMARY BLACK AND WHITE LOGO

PRIMARY COLOUR LOGO

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Cellars

SECONDARY BLACK AND WHITE LOGO

SECONDARY COLOUR LOGO

BOOK YOUR 2016 TOP SHELF EXHIBITOR SPACE please contact Mark Ryu for rates and a floor plan. Email: mryu@intermedia.com.au Mobile: 0404 803 356

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