Hospitality Business August 2019 by The Intermedia Group

GREAT TOASTIE FINALISTS | TOO HOT IN THE KITCHEN? | CAFÉ FARE

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz AUGUST 2019 Vol.6 No.7

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Contents REGULARS 06 DIGEST Marco Pierre White is coming to Auckland!

08 NEW OPENINGS From Napier to Wanaka new eateries have popped up!

25 IN SEASON Lamb Shank time! Winter vegetables & delicious Hoki.

FEATURES 10 T HE GREAT NEW ZEALAND TOASTIE CHALLENGE And the finalists are?

18 MANGERE BRIDGE TAVERN Iconic Kiwi bar limbers up for the Rugby World Cup

23 SUSTAINABILITY Hotel Grand Windsor makes the grade â&#x20AC;&#x201C; again!

10 12

28 T OO HOT IN THE KITCHEN? Steps to take care you of your employees

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - AUGUST 2019 3

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Editor AUGUST 2019 Vol. 6 No.7 PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand ph: 021 361 136 MANAGING DIRECTOR - PUBLISHER Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Paul Wootton The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd, Australia www.intermedia.com.au EDITOR - HOSPITALITY Business Kimberley Dixon kdixon@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 0274 505 502 PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz SALES DIRECTOR Wendy Steele wsteele@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 021 300 473 EDITOR - THE SHOUT Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intgermedianz.co.nz SALES MANAGER - THE SHOUT Jacqueline Freeman jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz 021 256 6351 CONTRIBUTORS Jes Magill, Sue Fea GRAPHIC DESIGNER Adrian Tipper – atipper@intermedia.com.au

Limbering Up For The Cup Welcome to the August edition of Hospitality Business! In this issue we look at event management and feature a true icon in New Zealand’s hospitality industry, - the family owned Mangere Bridge Tavern - as it limbers up to cover the Rugby World Cup! Owner Mark Walsh talks about his family’s passion for providing great fun, food and entertainment at the Tavern, and with All Black legend, the great Pat Walsh as his dad and mentor , he certainly understands hospitality. We also celebrate the creativity of 55 eateries throughout New Zealand who participated in the Great New Zealand Toastie Challenge. A challenge which has seen the perennial favourite receive a wonderful make-over in some instances, – including slow roasted duck, smoked kawai , and even mustard béchamel sauce! Next time I plan to volunteer to judge!! Sustainability remains a hot topic across the industry and this issue is peppered with ideas and initiatives on how we can all do our bit!

Kimberley Dixon kdixon@ intermedianz.co.nz 0274 505 502

Kia Kaha Stay Strong.

Kimberley Dixon

HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock – cblacklock@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper – jacqui@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Eclypse Lee – Publishing Assistant elee@intermedianz.co.nz

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz Circulation 7,031 Official external audit 30/09/18 www.abc.org.nz

DISCLAIMER This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by New Zealand and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2019 - The Intermedia Group Ltd ISSN 2382-1892

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GREAT TOASTIE FINALISTS | TOO HOT IN THE KITCHEN? | CAFÉ FARE

iMonitor

www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz AUGUST 2019 Vol.6 No.7

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Digest In association with Hospitality Business’ online newsletter www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz

From left: Nuttaphong Teeranuntapichit and Dr Niphatchanok Najpinij at AUT’s recent Thai programme.

Food Strengthens Thai Connection AUT School of Hospitality and Tourism students were fully immersed in all things Thai recently when the Thai Ambassador to New Zealand, H.E. Danai Menabodhi, hosted two prestigious Thai chef lecturers at the school. The lectures, demonstrations and practical classes culminated in an exclusive dinner at the school’s Four Seasons restaurant. The focus of the four day programme, funded by the ambassador, was about strengthening relationships between Thailand and New Zealand and the importance of Thai food. The two top Thai lecturers offered the Thai cooking classes in the school’s training kitchens as part of the visit. Nuttaphong ‘Tum’ Teeranuntapichit, currently chef and consultant for the Thai Ministry of Labour, the Thai National Food Institute and many well known Thai universities, and Dr ‘Ning’ Niphatchanok Najpinij, lecturer and guest lecturer on Thainess and gastronomy, and founder of the Cooking Chronicle Studio as well asthe Bangkok Bold Cooking Studio, are leaders in their field internationally. AUT Head of School of Hospitality and Tourism Linda O’Neill says it was an amazing opportunity for the students. 6 AUGUST 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

“It was about sharing the Thai culture through food and how factors such as the physical environment and migration influence food,” says Linda. Dr Ning is not only a specialist in gastronomy, but her mother was also influential in Thai cooking, working closely with a Michelin Star chef in Bangkok and cooking for the Thai Royal family. Chef Tum is also famous in Thai cooking circles, renowned for his Massaman Curry. Each class, which was also open to the public, included presentations on the history of Thai food, followed by a cooking demonstration and then a practical class. Dr Ning spoke of the layers and layers of tastes in Thai food – eight in total. At the end of the week the school’s Culinary Degree and Diploma of Culinary Arts students worked with Chef Tum, helping to prepare a special banquet hosted by the ambassador. Hospitality students at the school served the food, all a great honour, says Linda. “The relationship between the Thai Embassy and AUT began more than 15 years ago and we’ve been holding events ever since,” says Linda. “The Thai Ambassador is hoping this will now become an annual event for our school.”

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White trained many notable chefs including er re st Gordon Ramsay, Ta Wh d n ite Heston Blumenthal, tte is sc heduled to a Curtis Stone and Shannon Bennett. On retiring from the kitchen in 1999, White became a restaurateur,including the London Steakhouse Co, Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill and Marco’s New York Italian by Marco Pierre White. He has published several books including the influential cookbook White Heat and autobiography White Slave. The 57-year old’s extensive TV career includes presenting on British TV show Hell’s Kitchen for two series, Hell’s Kitchen Australia in 2017 and Marco Pierre’s Kitchen Wars in 2012. He has also appeared multiple times on Masterchef Australia and as mentor and head chef on Masterchef New Zealand in 2015. ‘Dine With Marco Pierre White’, Thursday 31 October 2019 This White Tie Dinner includes a four course dinner, matching wines, entertainment, charity auction and tickets to Taste of Auckland.

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One of the biggest names in the food world is heading down under later this year for some very special Auckland appearances. The ‘godfather of modern cooking’, Marco Pierre White, is set to appear at an exclusive white tie dinner and at the Taste of Auckland. The British chef, restaurateur and his executive chef Andrew Bennett will work with top New Zealand chefs on an exclusive multi-course dinner for around 400 diners on Thursday October 31. The event will take place at Shed 10 on Queens Wharf and raise money for charity, with tickets starting at $350 a head. On from 31 October to 3 November, visitors to this year’s Taste of Auckland will also be able to catch the famous chef - known for his acerbic wit as much as his signature wild mushroom risotto at appearances over the course of the four-day festival. Dubbed the ‘first celebrity chef’,’godfather of modern dining’ and ‘enfant terrible’ of the U.K. restaurant scene, White became the first British chef and the youngest chef in then Michelin history to be awarded three Michelin stars at age 32, before controversially handing them back. During his early career in the kitchen, the chef regularly ejected patrons from his restaurants if he took offence to their comments. Over the course of his 17 year career

Chef

Godfather Of Modern Cooking Heading To Auckland

If the crown fits, wear it! Bakels NZ Supreme Pie Awards six times winner (2018), Patrick Lam, dreams of one day telling his grandchildren that he was once the Pie King of New Zealand. Well, he still is! Congratulations will be ringing out across his kingdom as we celebrate Patrick Lam as this year’s Bakels NZ Supreme Pie Awards winner. With this, his seventh win, he is our most awarded baker, clutching his crown in a one-point victory over his opponents with a stunning mince and cheese pie. The Awards were announced on July 30 in Auckland at a themed gala event set in the jungle as the Search for the Lost City of Pies explored the far reaches of New Zealand to find victorious pies befitting a gold, silver or bronze award in the 11 finalist categories. On July 25, the judges, including celebrity chef judge Gareth Stewart, began the task at dawn of finding a winner from 5326 pies entered by 553 bakers. It took nearly nine hours. While there have been four previous Mince & Cheese Supreme winners (2001, 2002, 2005 and 2013) since the competition began in 1996, entry numbers in this category have steadily grown as New Zealanders declared it their favourite pie. To win with a Mince & Cheese pie is phenomenal. Not only do you have to get passed the ‘big boys’, the Commercial Wholesale bakers who can only enter a mince and cheese pie in that category and who comfortably bake tens of thousands of them each week, but you have to get passed nine other categories, many with more opportunity to ‘stand out from the crowd’ such as Gourmet Meat.

It’s a daunting task, a conquest fit for kings and Patrick Lam of Goldstar Patrick’s Pies in Bethlehem and Tauriko in Tauranga, and Rotorua faced the conquest and became the victor. Bakels NZ managing director Brent Kersel says: “The Supreme pie was absolute perfection. The pastry was golden, with perfect lamination, flaky, and a delight to bite into. The filling though surprised us. It was like the cheese had been swirled through the mince and the way it blended in your mouth as a result was exceptional, delicious. “Mince and cheese is my favourite pie, and I’d go so far as to say Patrick’s was the best I’ve ever tasted.” “Year upon year it gets harder to win this competition because the standard of the entries just keeps getting better. “We saw some very creative pies come through the Café Boutique category including The Flintstone with beef brisket and bone protruding the top pastry. “A standout for me was the slow-cooked pork belly pie which was cooked in apple cider and pear cider. It looked pretty impressive. “So it’s interesting that out of all the categories the Mince & Cheese should take Supreme but then it proves that if you get the formula right, the eye-catching golden pastry and the beautifully cooked, well-seasoned filling, then, yes, Mince & Cheese can out-shine the others. It takes a Pie King to show us that and we congratulate Patrick on his success.” He’s won the Supreme trophy, two golds and two bronze awards and $9,500 in prize money. For this charming, humble Pie King though it is all about bringing satisfaction to his customers and recognising the efforts of his bakery team to make that happen.

IF IT'S NEWS LET US KNOW:

Email Kimberley Dixon at kdixon@intermedianz.co.nz HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - AUGUST 2019 7

NEW OPENINGS

Connection, Passion, Place – Napier

RECENT ADDITION to Napier’s CBD hospo scene, Market St, has already raised the bar in the well-established enclave with its seriously good venues and occupies the oncefamous Criterion watering hole site that’s been vacant for nearly seven years. Owners of The Brewers Apprentice and previously The Strong Room in the Manawatu, Steve and Sarah Kelly are now based in the Art Deco capital of the world and in record time, Market St has grown a healthy number of fervent regulars. The Kellys realised the venue’s potential just over a year ago plus it’s prime location. The bar and eatery is accessed via a walk-through pedestrian space that links the two main streets at the top and coolest part of town. Stripping the interior back to its naked beauty, Steve and Sarah designed the fit out

8 AUGUST 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

as well, going for a “warm” industrial look which comes through in the fabric and materials selection. Their vision was for something superb from the get go: “A modern, casual city bar and eatery with live music, and in terms of what we offer in food and drinks, Market St will compete with anyplace, anywhere,” says Steve. The food offering has the “usual suspects with a twist,” he says. “In supporting local growers and producers we’ve created a menu that people relate to, we want people to feel connected.” Driving the venue’s service delivery is eight full-time and 22 part-time staff, with 273 people licensed for the space. Formerly a chef, Steve’s been in the industry for 26 years and couldn’t be more passionate and proud of it. His pitch-perfect hospitality spirit and operating smarts likely comes from a family legacy of hospo

operators, plus working with those he calls “great people.” Market St says “Yes!” The skilful use of space seamlessly defines the different areas where a broad range of diners and socialisers all seem to find their happy place. “Sarah and I love looking after people and that includes our team,” he says. “Without our team, we’re nothing.” n

MARKET ST BAR & EATERY 8 Market Street, Napier Ph 06 650 1720 www.marketst.co.nz

NEW OPENINGS

PORT & EAGLE BREWPUB

184 Williams Street, Kaiapoi Ph: 03 9262941 www.eaglebrewing.nz

Port & Eagle Brewpub, located on the banks of the Kaiapoi River in Canterbury, is the new home of Eagle Brewing New Zealand and is pretty much home to ‘all things beer’. This is a family-style pub that can seat up to 120 people for dinner, with a capacity of some 250 for events. The food is good, wholesome, traditional pub food with a smattering of other flavours like steam dumplings. Manager Paul Hodgin says the new pub’s burgers – chicken, beef and even a vegan-style burger - have been massively popular. Owner Dave Gaughan, who owns the pub with his partner Marilyn Gaughan, is a vegan so naturally there are plenty of great vegan options here. Dave has been brewing for about 13 years and his Eagle Brewing label is distributed in some retail and wholesale outlets. The locals are also enjoying the Sunday roast in this great new venue, which features lots of wood and a huge deck outside around the perimeter that overlooks the river.

HIKARI TEPPANYAKI AND JAPANESE CUISINE Five Mile Retail Centre, A13/14, 19 Grant Road Ph: 03 4282400 www.hikarisushi.co.nz

A fun new 60-seater Hikari Japanese Restaurant has opened in the rapidlyexpanding Five Mile Retail Centre near Frankton with a strong emphasis on teppanyaki theatre and family dining. Specialist Filipino and Korean teppanyaki chefs have been brought in to work in the light, modern new restaurant and co-owner Kwang Yong Song says the locals can certainly expect some impressive teppanyaki shows. Skilled teppanyaki chefs, renowned for their stunning fire shows, are very hard to find in New Zealand. “Teppanyaki is very popular with families, as children love the teppanyaki shows,” says Kwang. Hikari, owned by Kwang and business partner Shawn Kim, has a strong presence in the South Island. Hikari has a buffet-style Japanese restaurant in Christchurch and a new sushi train restaurant on the way, as well as two restaurants in Dunedin – a sushi bar for more casual dining and takeaway outlet.

OTTO DELICATESSEN 173 St Asaph Street, Christchurch Ph: 0274357128 www.theyardchch.nz

It may be small in stature but Christchurch’s Otto Delicatessen is turning out some big flavours. This little three metre by three metre, hole-in-the-wall-style gem is one of the six vendors in The Yard precinct – a central Christchurch showcase of artisan producers. Handcrafted European-style sandwiches made with house-made breads like focaccia, rye sourdough and mixed grain with gluten free options also among the offerings. They’re all baked in the Otto kitchen and packed with fillings like salami and prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, baba ganoush, homemade hummus, maple glazed, grilled pumpkin with sprouts, fried peanuts, red cabbage and tahina. Otto’s toasties are also becoming renowned, starring the likes of McClure’s Pickles and Provolone cheese. Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavours are strong here in the rotation of delicious Ottolenghiinspired seasonal salads and the firm favourite, chocolate brownies, team up nicely with a hot coffee.

THE BARN

EARL

A group of six Waimate mates – a former Dominion Breweries sales manager and five local farmers – have pitched in to revive the social fabric of the tiny south Canterbury town. Renovated from a former bakery and café, The Barn carries a distinctly rural theme, taking on the appearance of a hay barn. Local artist Billy Scott did the honours painting a mural for the wall, featuring a Massey Ferguson tractor in a shed and a horse in a stable. A café by day and gastrostyle pub by night, The Barn’s roasts, fresh beer-battered blue cod and burgers are sliding down nicely with a beer. Naturally there’s DB on tap here with former lower South Island rep and sales manager Adam Wilson the managing partner in the business. Pies, sausage rolls and breads are all baked fresh on site for the café, which has also been very popular.

Earl is a new 55-seater, European-style food and wine bistro in Christchurch’s Salt District, a new inner city quarter offering a cluster of classy and intimate restaurants through to courtyard bars, all new, fresh and exciting. Earl is one of these gritty new vendors offering a Coastal European-inspired menu and a 100 percent European wine list that changes daily. It’s the perfect pairing, showcasing different flavours and profiles and a powerful point of difference for Earl. A born and bred Cantabrian, owner Tom Newfield moved back to his home city after working in hospitality in Melbourne and the Middle East to get involved in the vibrant new Christchurch hospitality scene. Earl, overlooking a park, is elegantly effortless, breezy and light, with plenty of natural wood, glass and bespoke plants dotted about in blue and orange pots.

25 Queen Street, Waimate Ph: 03 6896010 Email: thebarnwaimate@ gmail.com

128 Lichfield Street, Christchurch Ph: 03 3660172 www.earl.co.nz

HOSPITALITY BUSINESS - AUGUST 2019 9

CAFÉ FARE

Café Success 101 Know your patch

veryone has a favourite café – one that makes the ‘ best coffee, the best eggs-benny, the absolute best kimchi, poke bowls or deconstructed plant based burgers.’ Arguments abound as to where to brunch on a Sunday; where to get the best table! And the success of a café comes down to a marriage of many factors, including cleanliness, staff friendliness, ambiance and of course the ingredients. If your clientele is looking for a quite Sunday get together with relatives for a catch up, raging heavy metal background music kills the likelihood of a return visit , no matter how good the Chai Latte or Dilmah tea and scones are, and likewise if your sustainability footprint is obviously still stuck in 1999, patrons will notice.

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Selecting the business model that will draw customers to your café is a daunting task in itself. Decisions include, licensed or unlicensed, franchised, on-site food production from scratch, or off-site deliveries of pre-prepared meals, rolls, sandwiches, cakes and fruit – or a bit of both? Combine these with hours of operation, style of food….the list goes on and on. Knowing your patch – who you want to attract and retain is Café Success 101 – and being adventurous with the menu is essential, while retaining the obviously popular items. This month Hospitality Business looks at the Great New Zealand Toastie Challenge – a café, takeaway staple which has drawn over fifty entries from across the country , many of whom have taken the humble cheese toastie to whole new level! n

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AUCKLAND • Luncheonette by Culprit - Macaroni and Brisket Burnt End with McClure’s Pickle Toastie. • Fed Deli - Pastrami ‘n’ Swiss Melt – A toasted hot dog bun with pastrami, Russian dressing, McClure’s Pickle Spear and Swiss cheese. • The Apothecary - “Dagwood” Reuben sandwich.

WELLINGTON • Goods Manufactory and Café - Roasted cauliflower, garlic kale, Taleggio and McClure’s Spicy Pickles. • Park Kitchen – PK’s Tuna Melt – Tuna, mozzarella, spicy sliced pickles, red onion, garlic aioli and fresh basil on brioche.

WAIKATO / BAY OF PLENTY • The General (Mount Maunganui) – A toastie featuring Golden Harvest Organic Sourdough and packed with all kinds of goodies, including 12-hour braised beef brisket and McClure’s Sweet and Spicy Pickles. • Hayes Common (Hamilton) – Ol’ Smoky - The toastie that almost got away - Smoked kahawai, creamy mustard béchamel, smoked and vintage Meyer cheeses, McClure’s Sweet and Spicy Pickles, hot sauce, potato sourdough and a fried pickle.

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CHRISTCHURCH • Joe’s Garage Riccarton - Pulled lamb shoulder and Havarti cheese toastie. • Otto Delicatessen - The French Dip - Provolone, cheddar, onion and mustard aioli with McClure’s Pickles, hot beef jus and potato crisps.

CENTRAL NORTH ISLAND • The Federal Store Cafe & Deli (New Plymouth) – 12-hour slow-cooked corned beef with sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, pickles and dressing on toasted, herbbuttered dark rye. • Replete Café (Taupo) - Kiwi Cuban - Ham, Th e

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Finalists named in search for New Zealand’s top toasted sandwich! ith the first round of judging complete in the annual Great New Zealand Toastie Takeover, one thing’s clear: the competition behind those sandwich grills is fierce. Now in its second year, this popular celebration of the not-so-humble toasted sandwich has introduced a competitive element, with 50 establishments submitting their take on the country’s tastiest toastie. A massive 10,000 toasties have been served up over July, with the participating eateries vying for a spot in the competition’s final round. Now, those 13 finalists have been announced in a group made up of two finalists per region (with the exception of Auckland, where there was a tie for points during judging). The competition criteria requires sandwiches to be toasted between two slices of bread and able to be eaten by hand. The toasties also need to contain cheese and McClure’s pickles, with all the other ingredients entirely up to the entrant’s imagination. And a glance through the finalists confirms the imaginative Kiwi take on this beloved snack knows no bounds. And the finalists are:

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The Great Toastie Showdown

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SOUTH ISLAND (Excluding Christchurch) • The Hokitika Sandwich Company (Hokitika) - The Detroit - Corned beef, sweet and spicy McClure’s pickles, red onion, Havarti cheese, house-made special sauce, mixed greens served on toasted ciabatta. • Vines Village Café (Marlborough) Little River Duck Toastie - Slow roasted aromatic duck with Sweet & Spicy McClure’s Pickles, Sour Cherry, Little River (Nelson) Cumulus A2 cheese and caramelised onion on crusty white bread.

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Head judge Kerry Tyack says New Zealand’s love affair with toasted sandwiches shows no sign of abating – and fans of the snack have been in for a real treat during the Great Toastie Takeover. “Cooks have become more adventurous. No longer is it sufficient to slap slabs of cheddar and ham between slices of white

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bread,” he says. “Artisan breads, piquant pickles and richly braised meats are all being carefully compiled to create exotic treasure troves of taste. “Consumers are also more discerning and demanding a high standard of toastie Fed preparation. Out is the fatty, d Deli, Aucklan greasy, under-seasoned stodge of old and in is the artfully layered, beautifully presented and multi-textural sandwich, especially one that pays homage to local and regional produce. “The Kiwi toastie is no longer simply comfort food – it’s become a thing of culinary art.” The final round of judging will also see Joe McClure of McClure’s Pickles in Detroit hitting New Zealand to taste the finalists’ creations – and he’s looking forward to sampling their efforts. All 13 finalists’ toasties look incredible,” he says. “It’s great to see how our pickles have been used in each sandwich and have been combined with such amazing flavours. I can’t wait to come over and try them all and also to see some of New Zealand’s spectacular scenery while I’m on the road.” Each toastie will again be judged on presentation, effectiveness of preparation technique, eatability, taste, innovation and originality, with the nation’s top toasted sandwich set to be revealed on Monday, August 26. n Replete Cafe, Taupo

e n q u i r i e s @ a l t d a i r y. c o . n z

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One New Zealand Company Has The Cure. focused on wireless temperature monitoring. The subsequent integration of Food Safety Planning brought the human and regulatory together into a smart, reliable, seamless, fully online package that sites of any size and scale could rely on. It is the only service provider in the country capable of supplying this end-to-end compliance platform, right up to enterprise level food industry players. Whether it’s static, in-process, or spot-check monitoring – iMonitor has it all covered. The static side of the system alerts the people that matter when it matters, in real-time. Say your cold storage assets get hit with a power outage or fridge failure. No problem. The information is immediately relayed to a manager so action can be taken before any impact occurs. The in-line system allows production to be monitored from start to end, and even minute deviations in cooking, chilling or other process stages can be monitored and corrected to improve the quality of the product and, of course, ensure its safety. The system also extends to the transportation leg, so your product can be monitored – and safe – right up until it reaches your customers. The ‘smart probes’ allow for all your key spot-checks – during cooking, hot-holding, the chilling down process, or right before serving. They take the temperature of the product and directly upload that number into your Food Safety Plan app – no need to remember what the results are or trust a person to go back and enter it. Any action required is always prompted, clear, visible and recorded to ensure compliance. Its cloud-based, IoT system, collects and delivers all this vital information through a 24/7 digital dashboard, providing a meaningful oversight of food safety in real time - all the time - to all operational tiers of the organisation. Its technology is designed to meet and exceed both local and global standards. The iMonitor business is a leadingedge Kiwi player in a much bigger global game called ‘Regtech’2 – described by many as ‘the Next Big Thing’. Regtech

30 AUGUST 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

refers to using digital capabilities (tech) to deliver the automation of legal compliance (reg) that’s completely revolutionising the world of managing risk in business. Almost all businesses will be able to benefit from regtech, as it drives down the cost of compliance while adding value and complete visibility to previously out-of-sight processes. It’s being used to keep people safe across a wide range of industries, including health, construction, finance and now food. As far as staying on top of the food chain in New Zealand is concerned, iMonitor is keeping Kiwis firmly ahead of the curve with this technology. The bottom line is that any business in the food industry – of any scale that collects food safety compliance data by hand, on paper, or by any other means, is taking an unnecessary risk. And that’s a risk iMonitor is determined that both companies and their customers don’t have to face. n References: 1: World Health Organisation (2019). Food Safety. https://www.who.int/ news-room/fact-sheets/detail/ food-safety 2: Deloitte (2019). Reg Tech universe. Take a look at who is orbiting the Reg Tech space. https://www2.deloitte. com/lu/en/pages/technology/articles/ regtech-companies-compliance.html

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The Perils Of Purchasing

urchasing goods for your venue should be one of the easiest parts of running a hospitality venue - right? Let’s step back and think what is involved in purchasing, choosing who your suppliers are and doing due diligence on them to ensure:• that you are going to get what you want in way of product and quality, particularly where food is concerned • a competitive price based on the quantities that you will order • reliability in being able to supply your needs and deliver at the right time. Sounds simple and yet there are many suppliers out there who have a competitive price but fall down in the other areas that can leave you spending far too much time on something you thought you had nailed. You want to know that when you place an order that order will be delivered correctly as you ordered in in the right quantity, with the right price and when you wanted it. One of the most difficult areas that we see for people to get right is having the right amount of stock. Sounds easy but ordering too much or too little can have equally disastrous consequences. We find owners who delegate staff to do the ordering find themselves carrying more stock than is necessary. In most cases there is no accountability or budget constraint put on the person and from their standpoint they would rather have too much than run out. While under purchasing can save money in the short term, does it cost you money in the long-

term? If you haven’t got it, you can’t sell it! Add to that if you rush out and buy from the nearest supermarket or liquor store you are going to pay a premium price and reduce your margin. Consistency of supply is another area that needs to be carefully considered. A smart marketing strategy of venues is to have a point of difference that their competitors can’t match and a key area of this is with product offerings. Wines, or particular food types or varieties that can be sourced are a great way of doing this, but you need to be able to get your supplier to guarantee supply. Some wine importers will put specific stock aside for this, but the key is making sure that they don’t run out, as your customer isn’t interested that they can’t get what they ordered because your supplier couldn’t deliver. Like you, suppliers deal with multiple customers and as is human nature all those customers have demands and expectations. Be prepared to show flexibility but talk to your suppliers about a delivery schedule that meets both of your needs. A busy restaurant doesn’t want a delivery coming in, in the middle of service, and your suppliers will know this so find a time that is mutually agreeable to both of you. This will enable you to ensure that you have staff available to receive, check and put the order away (more on this next month) and this will also speed up the time the delivery takes for the supplier. Obviously, price is one of the key elements in the purchasing cycle. As mentioned above just because it is the cheapest price may not be

the best deal for you. A lot of suppliers today will offer you contract pricing which makes life simpler for you in setting a sell price and costing a menu. Having that consistency is an important thing but make sure that you still check your invoices to ensure that you are receiving your contract pricing. We can site many examples where contract pricing has failed to roll over in the supplier IT system or someone has forgotten to enter it and this can have a devastating affect on your liquor and food costs. If you’re not having regular audits carried out to identify this then the cost to you could be in the tens of thousands over the course of a year. Suppliers will also over you rebates, either in monetary terms or free product. Make sure you have a system in place to see that you receive this and that it is what has been agreed. It is also important that you clear in how you are going to treat this, have you costed this into your costs already or are you going to accumulate it and add it in later, from an accounting perceptive this can have quite an affect. Selling food and beverage items is what makes a hospitality business tick but it is essential that your purchasing strategy is equally robust. n

Peter Nelson is the Managing Director of Sculpture Hospitality New Zealand & Australia

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32 AUGUST 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

oodson. rom W

installed in various commercial kitchens, such as cafes, quick service restaurants, hotels, take-away restaurants, food courts, clubs and pubs. Being a Stoddart brand, Woodson continues on today as a 100 percent Australian family owned business, with a state of the art manufacturing, distribution and warehouse facility located in Brisbane. Additionally, Stoddart also maintain high stock and spare parts level at warehouses and sales offices in Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Adelaide and Auckland. Through this strategically located infrastructure and together with its national, third party dealer and service network, Stoddart is able to provide instant solutions to businesses throughout New Zealand, Australia and the Asia Pacific region.

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RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION

Food For Thought Full Cost Recovery – We Need More Checks & Balances By Marisa Bidois – CEO Restaurant Association of New Zealand

he Wellington Council is proposing to increase the fees it collects from licencing services under the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012 (the Act). In 2017/18 the fees recovered by the Council covered 68 per cent of the licensing cost with the additional 32 per cent being made up from rates. The Act allows the Council to collect fees to recover the total costs for its alcohol licencing functions. Without an increase in 2019/20 the Council expect that fees will only cover approximately 60 per cent of our costs with the balance paid by rates. The Council is proposing to increase the level of the fees to recover 85 per cent of the costs incurred by the Council to administer alcohol licencing. Any remaining costs will continue to be subsidised by rates. We vehemently oppose the Council’s proposal to increase the level of the fees it collects from licence services under the Sale and Supply of Alcohol Act 2012. The Association has submitted to the council that not only do the costs seem to be excessive for the work required, the proposal has uncovered what appears to be largely inefficient processes being adopted and enacted by Council. Of particular note: • workload and staffing levels seem to be incongruent; • ballooning IT overhead costs, with little-to-no justification; and • the opportunity for Council to use this as a chance to better streamline internal processes, rather than pass on their costs to business. Against this backdrop the Association has drawn attention to the number of staff the Council currently employs in this area, in direct contrast to the amount of applications, renewals, and inspections currently being carried out. The application for an alcohol licence is a multi-step process with many fees incurred. It

also takes a long time due to requiring clearance from many parties, but often it is merely a check-box exercise for them. When considered against the fees schedule, new applications per week in 2017/18 totaled 22 (a mix of special, club, off and on and also duty managers certificates) when you average the license renewals per week this brings the total to around 27. With a team of 14 that is less then 2 licenses per person a week. Our own Hospitality Report1 shows there has been subdued growth in the number of outlets in the Wellington area however this is sharply offset with the number of closures. In 2017-2018 there was a 1% growth rate in the number of outlets in the Wellington region, and our most recent figures (2018-2019) was again a 1.76% increase – a very subdued increase. The Association is devoted to reducing costs for our members, but we also have a wealth of expertise and experience in the sector that we are willing to share. At the Association we process over 2,300 renewals spanning the breadth of New Zealand per year, with a small administrative team of two, highlighting our familiarity and efficiency in this area. We have offered our services to the team at Wellington City Council to help identify productivity gains and streamline the process. We believe that we could make valuable contributions and suggestions for improving process. We see this as a collaborative and efficient approach to solving the problem with the hopes of

34 AUGUST 2019 - HOSPITALITY BUSINESS

ultimately saving the hospitality community money in ever growing burden of compliance costs. The Association and its members strongly oppose the proposed changes and fee increases for the alcohol bylaws revision. These fees would negatively impact the hospitality industry, which generates significant revenue in Wellington and is tied to the economic and cultural growth of the city. n 1. Restaurant Association Hospitality Report 2018

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JULY 20192019 | www.theshout.co.nz AUGUST | www.theshout.co.nz

NEW ZEALAND

VEGAN WINE AROMATICS WINTER ALES FESTIVAL

orders@parrotdog.co.nz | 04 384 8077 | parrotdog.co.nz

contents

The Shout Editor, Charlotte Cowan

WINE, WINE, EVERYWHERE…

What are you sipping on tonight? Your favourite Hawke's Bay Merlot? A crisp vodka tonic? I’ve said it before, we all love the classics - but each month we know that something new is just around the corner to bump us out of our comfort zones, and this issue is all about testing your taste buds. Yes, we have our Kiwi favourite, Sauvignon Blanc, on pgs 12-13 - but how about trying a Würzer, a blush Riesling or a Viognier? Take a look at Cameron Douglas MS' aromatics tasting notes on pgs 14-15 for some great examples. Or why not make a special effort to seek out a vegan wine this month? In fact, you won’t have to try very hard – more than 250 wines in New Zealand are considered vegan. Flick to pg 10 to find out exactly what that means. And on our cover this month we have something we know you haven’t tried yet – vodka-infused kombucha. Yes, you heard me right. This low-sugar, 100% natural RTD is the third offering from The Premium Liquor Co. who are changing how we view the ol’ ready-to-drink. Available in three flavours, Happy Booch is clean, natural and basically healthy (according to me, anyway). For more info, head to pg 7. So there we have it, an August filled with new things to try! Put down your Merlot and give them a go. See you next month!

august2019

4 INDUSTRY NEWS AND INSIGHTS 7 HAPPY BOOCH HAS LANDED

An introduction to New Zealand’s first vodka-infused kombucha

8 WHAT COMES AFTER THE PINK REVOLUTION?

Spirits writer Tash McGill explores new trends in gin

10 THE YEAR OF VEGAN WINES

Sip NZ’s Caro Jensen gives us an insight into what makes wine ‘vegan’

12 SAUVIGNON BLANC AND AROMATICS

Tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS

16 WINTER ALES FESTIVAL

John Oszajca shares a travel diary of his windy weekend in Wellington

SHOUT

NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST LIQUOR AUDIENCE

THE

JULY 20192019 | www.theshout.co.nz AUGUST | www.theshout.co.nz

COVER STAR:

NEW ZEALAND

HAPPY BOOCH

A partnership between The Premium Liquor Co. and Good Buzz, Happy Booch is New Zealand’s first 100% natural vodka-infused kombucha. Available in three flavours and naturally low in sugar, Happy Booch is available now. For more information, head to pg 7. VEGAN WINE AROMATICS WINTER ALES FESTIVAL

EDITOR’S PICKS 1

PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand ph: 021 361 136 Managing Director-Publisher Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz Editor Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz ph 021 774 080 Sales Director Jaqueline Freeman 021 286 7600 jfreeman@intermedianz.co.nz

SEIFRIED NELSON GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2019 An early ripening variety with an aromatic, fragrant bouquet, Gewürztraminer is full of flavour and sophistication. Seifried Nelson Gewürztraminer 2019 is floral, peachy and balanced and is one of Cameron Douglas MS’ highest scoring aromatics this month. For more, visit pgs 14-15.

Worldof Wine VOLUME 2 WINTER 2019

IT'S A MATCH Food and wine pairs to love

CAMERON DOUGLAS MS

CELLAR SECRETS

Backstage at the vineyard PLUS finding your favourite drop

WINE LABEL LANGUAGE EXPLAINED

Reds on the Rise

2 AUNTSFIELD SOUTH OAKS BARREL FERMENTED MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 Bright straw in colour and complex on the palate, Auntsfield’s Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc is a stand-out in this month’s Sauvignon Blanc tastings with a huge 96 points. For more on this wine, and many other stellar Sauvs, check out pgs 12-13. 3 WORLD OF WINE WINTER 2019 EDITION For a comprehensive wine bible for lovers of the grape drop, you can’t go past World of Wine magazine. The Winter 2019 edition is out now and is packed with industry news, trends and insights. For more, take a look at pg 4. THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 3

news

World of Wine magazine available now The Winter 2019 edition of World of Wine magazine has been released and is available now from isubscribe.co.nz. In partnership with Cameron Douglas MS, New Zealand’s only Master Sommelier, World of Wine is a 68-page magazine packed with industry news, innovations and exclusive features on some of the industry’s trailblazers, plus Douglas’ personal tasting notes. Written in Douglas’ own distinctive style, World of Wine brings you the latest in wine trends, as well as regional discoveries, food and wine pairings, and varietal highlights. The ultimate resource for wine lovers, both at work and at home, and you can subscribe for just $12.95 or $19.95 for both the Winter 2019 and Summer 2019/20 editions. For more information and to subscribe, head to www.isubscribe.co.nz/

WIN

The Dunedin Craft Beer Festival is back!

The Dunedin Craft Beer & Food Festival is back in 2019 and taking place on November 8-9. Due to an unprecedented sell out in 2018, festival organisers have decided to stage this year’s festival over two days to cater for public demand. Hosted at the Forsyth Barr Stadium, the DCBFF will open on Friday 8th November at 3pm and run until 9pm (R18). The Saturday is family-friendly and is open from 12pm to 7pm. One of the region’s most highly-anticipated events, the festival will again showcase an impressive selection of food and craft beverages, entertainment and kids’ entertainment on the Saturday. “Heading into the seventh year, we are excited to grow the festival,” says festival organiser, Jason Schroeder. “Stay tuned for new additions and exciting news.” We have one double pass to the Dunedin Craft Beer Festival to give away! For instructions on how to enter, head to @theshoutnz on Instagram and Facebook!

WHAT’S ON August 9-10 BEERVANA Westpac Stadium, Wellington www.beervana.co.nz August 18 INTERNATIONAL PINOT NOIR DAY September 30-October 2 NZ International Wine Show 2019 judging www.nziws.co.nz October 5-6 THE CHOCOLATE & COFFEE SHOW The Cloud, Auckland www.chocolatecoffeeshow.co.nz October 6 MATAKANA FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Matakana www.oysterfestmatakana.co.nz/ October 17-19 BREWNZ 2019 Wellington www.brewersguild.org.nz October 19 INTERNATIONAL GIN & TONIC DAY October 25 NZ INTERNATIONAL WINE SHOW AWARDS DINNER Auckland www.nziws.co.nz

November 16 THE NEW ZEALAND CIDER FESTIVAL Nelson www.nzciderfestival.com/

Auckland’s highest rooftop bar opens Auckland’s newest and highest rooftop bar has opened on the 20th floor of the Four Points by Sheraton hotel on Queen Street. The Churchill – specialising in gin and champagne – offers panoramic views of the city in a stylish space celebrating the beverage traditions of the 1920s. The favoured tipple of the great Sir Winston Churchill and author of The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald, there are more than 160 gins to choose from, including Hayman’s Sloe gin, Glenalough Rose gin and Malfy Arancia Blood Orange gin. For more information on The Churchill, head to www.churchillbar.co.nz 4 | AUGUST 2019 | THE SHOUT NZ

industry insights

It’s a Pinot party! Make a note in your calendar. While it may seem like there’s a ‘special day’ for everything nowadays, International Pinot Noir Day on August 18 is a date you won’t want to miss. Pinot Noir is New Zealand wine’s second biggest variety in terms of production, second only to Sauvignon Blanc, with the majority grown in Marlborough and Central Otago. In 2002 we planted 2,029 ha, but by 2018 we recorded 5,653 ha of prime for-the-picking Pinot. The difference in our climate is a major factor in the defining regional styles, with Pinot Noir having a host of different flavours based on where it’s come from. Spin the wine flavour wheel and you could land on dark berry fruit, chocolate, fresh herbs and spicy notes. Pinot has established itself as Central Otago’s flagship variety and it flourishes there, as extreme climate rewards careful site selection with wines of great intensity, sophistication and reputation. Though the rugged terrain may be breath-taking, it doesn’t make life easy for grape growers and winemakers – this is one of the hottest, coldest and driest regions in New Zealand. Historically however, Pinot Noir was first planted in the Wairarapa region as far back as 1883. Things didn’t really kick off until a century later, and by the late 1980s, local wine show accolades began rolling in. By the 1990s, gold medals were won in Australia, then London, and

Amber Silvester New Zealand Winegrowers Communications Manager

murmurings of a potential new Pinot powerhouse began traveling around the world. And now in 2019, New Zealand has cemented its place as a world-renowned Pinot Noir producer. From Central Otago to North Canterbury, Nelson and Marlborough in the south, over to Wairarapa and Central Hawke’s Bay in the north, our winemakers produce a dramatic and distinctive array of styles, driven from the land. And the rest of the world has discovered it too. There has been impressive growth in export sales of New Zealand Pinot Noir in the last five years, with nearly 1.5 million cases exported in 2018. As any New Zealand wine lover will tell you; Pinot Noir is a chance we’re glad we took.

Is there an export market for NZ beer? People often say to me: ‘With the growth in New Zealand’s craft sector, we must be exporting a lot of beer’. While it’s true, we are exporting more than before. It’s a relatively small amount. In 2018, we exported $45 million worth of the amber liquid. Which equates to about 10% of the beer produced here. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly what variety of beer is leaving our shores because the data is shown in ABV. The biggest segment by far was 4.35-5% ABV coming in at $22.5 million. So where do we send our beers? The biggest consumer of our beers is Australia, which last year took $30 million worth of the $45 million exported, easy to see why. It is so close. So, distribution is cheaper. It’s a similar market. So, Australians enjoy (and are familiar with) our craft beers and there are plenty of ex-pats who want a taste of home. Whether that’s the most recent hazy from their favourite local. Or a six-pack of what their dad drank. NZ Trade and enterprise recently put together a ‘howto’ for exporting craft beer titled ‘Craft Beer: Turning on the export tap’. Which is a pretty good starting point for those looking to expand their horizons. One of the biggest take outs for me was the statement: ‘It’s about finding a value proposition – a story – that resonates with craft

Dylan Firth Executive Director, Brewers Association of New Zealand

beer drinkers. Hammering it home: being a premium craft beer from New Zealand is probably not going to be good enough anymore’. Understanding what the target market is key, you can’t be everything to everybody. Whether that’s the growing Chinese market, which is notoriously hard to crack, or just doubling down our existing biggest export destination Australia. Exporting must be highly targeted. Lastly, do you know we exported $30,000 worth of beer to Antarctica in 2018? It was the highest single value New Zealand export to the icy continent. Guess our Scott Base residents need something to enjoy during the darker months!

THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 5

Enticing, Heavenly, Unique. Gemstone by Giesen.

on the cover

Happy Booch Has Landed h

appy Booch, New Zealand’s first ever 100% natural kombucha-infused vodka, has been launched nationwide. A partnership between The Premium Liquor Co. and Good Buzz, Happy Booch is available in three flavours – Raspberry Lemon, Pineapple Mango and Lemon Ginger (all 4.5% ABV). Premium Liquor’s third edition to the low-sugar ready-to-drink market, following the successful launches of Sundown and Hint over the past 18 months, Happy Booch vodka kombucha is naturally low in sugar and made from 100% natural ingredients.

“There has been huge growth for kombucha-based beverages, both in New Zealand and around the world,” says Hamish Gordon, Premium Liquor Founder. “We’re thrilled to be part of this journey, collaborating with kombucha aficionados, Good Buzz, to launch Happy Booch.” Gordon says Premium Liquor and Good Buzz share the same passions and values in what they are aiming to achieve - creating innovative beverages that are made from natural ingredients, are naturally lower in sugar and made in New Zealand. “As the first charcoal-filtered premium vodka-based kombucha to launch in

New Zealand, those lucky enough to try Happy Booch can rest assured they are drinking the cleanest vodka infused with the best quality kombucha,” says Gordon. “Each bottle of Happy Booch contains vodka that is made from pure New Zealand water and whey that’s been triple-distilled, contains no additives, is gluten and GMO free and is then charcoal-filtered to remove any impurities,” he says. “The kombucha is also naturally fermented and brewed in the most traditional form.” Happy Booch is available in four-packs from liquor stores across New Zealand and at www.premiumliquor.co.nz RRP $15.99. n

THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 7

E H T TER

F A S OME

C T A WH

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i k t u n l i o

prev i

Tash McGill is a spirits and hospitality writer who regularly hosts tastings and education classes for those wanting to know more about spirits and their uses - from cocktails to culinary food matches. She has been in the spirits and cocktail industry for more than 10 years, writing, tasting and judging competitions. 8 | AUGUST 2019 | THE SHOUT NZ

f you’ve been looking at the producers and the Sloe berries everything through rosy, pinkconsumers, as to who hued glasses for the last three influences who. years, you’re not alone. The ongoing popularity of Millennial A SPIRIT WITHOUT pink has continued to inspire a range of BOUNDARIES pink drinks. Which raises the question, Pink has traditionally have we reached peak pink yet? With a been the realm new pink gin being released nearly every of strawberry and month in the last year, we’re asking rhubarb notes, or – what comes next? As we’ve spoken the deep luscious about before, gin is one of the least purple-tinged hue regulated spirit categories in the of Sloe berries when it world, which means a ripe territory comes to the botanicals used for exploration. in gin. But what if you took an already It’s hard to deny the industry well-regarded local ingredient and threw research that is telling us (more it in a batch of already delicious Four frequently and at louder volume) Pillars gin? That’s exactly what the Four that the Millennial drinker is drinking Pillars team out of Australia have done. less but with more focus on quality Four Pillars was founded in 2013 using the ingredients. Which means trends will best of New World ingredients, like native continue to give way to one another Tasmanian Pepperberry and lemon myrtle, Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz and the tension remains between along with more traditionally Asian-inspired

spirit on show botanicals. With the Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz, founders Cameron Mackenzie, Stuart Gregor and Matt Jones steep Shiraz grapes from the Yarra Valley in their delicious gin. The result is a twist on Old World sloe gin with a deep burgundy violet colour. It’s a bold gin that holds up to cocktails - an interesting theme we’ll revisit in the world of experimental gin. EXPERIMENTING WITH COLOUR AND CHEMISTRY Here’s a curious fact – as colour and flavour experimentation takes us beyond pink, we land on blue. Sharish Blue Magic Gin is named for the magical blue pea flower than bestows a luscious violet blue to this Portuguese gin. For additional curiosity, the gin changes colour depending on the chemistry of what it’s mixed with, often turning pink. Similarly, the soon-to-be released Black Gin from New Zealand-based Scapegrace offers bartenders and customers an array of colour transformations to play with - it’s all about natural, not added colours.

“SEAWEED AND KELP BECOME AN INTERESTING PART OF THE FLAVOUR COMBINATIONS PUSHING US INTO NEW SAVOURY GIN TERRITORIES.”

Dà Mhìle Seaweed Gin

LOCAL EXPLORERS Dà Mhìle Seaweed Gin from Wales once again proves that local ingredients can be some of the most interesting. Taking seaweed from the coast and then infusing it into small batch gin for three weeks produces a coastal aroma and slightly saline-heavy note. They are not the only ones to experiment with marine algae – we’ll be drinking a lot more seaweed infusions if Nelson’s Dancing Sands distillery has its way. The addition of kelp adds savoury, salty long finishes to their gin and it’s an ingredient that is gaining popularity around the world, from the Isle of Harris to Japan. Anywhere you’re on an island, seaweed and kelp become an interesting part of the flavour combinations pushing us into new savoury gin territories. Another local brand, Ariki, is focused on using local Manuka flower, Rarotonga vanilla and Tongan coconut in their botanical recipe to create a truly Pacific flavour profile in their gin. What does

that taste like? Generous mouthfeel from essential oils, a citrus-forward refreshing taste that gives way to warm spice from lemongrass and a hint of sweetness from the vanilla. If this is stretching your definition of botanical, then the producers of Japan’s Ki No Bi Gin take it even further. Would you like a bamboo leaf with your spice-influenced gin? While Japanese whisky has been a hot commodity for the last few years, when news broke that a number of Japanese distilleries were working on gin releases, taste buds started salivating. Almost every category of Japanese spirit or brewing sets itself apart from the rest of the world either through balance and harmony or unique ingredients. The Ki No Bi from Kyoto Distillery is no exception, boasting Japanese ingredients like yuzu, hinoki wood chips, bamboo leaves, green sansho and gyokuro tea. The same Japanese tradition of balance is repeated here with six key flavour categories independently distilled and then blended for the botanical recipe: citrus, tea, spice, fruity, floral and herbal.

BASE SPIRIT CURIOSITY If using rice-based spirit is both local and practical for Japanese distilleries, there are plenty of other distillates making their way into gin production, some with a considerable splash. The White Sheep Co. having been making gin and vodka from sheep’s milk distillate for some time, creating a Sheep’s Milk & Honey gin alongside their Sheep’s Milk vodka. Yes, it does taste milky. There’s just a hint of creamy mouthfeel and milky aroma to this gin that wakes up the senses to something unusual. The usual crisp, dryness of juniper is softer, allowing space for sweet honey notes to round it out. It’s a gin that invites careful tonic matching, but really shines as a potential cocktail ingredient. As is often the case with gin, the addition of modifiers and mixers can highlight and allow the various botanicals to shine. In a similar fashion, Applewood Gin Distillery out of Australia are using grape spirit as the basis for their gin that aims to showcase the Australian landscape in a beverage. Prominent use of finger limes and desert limes, alongside peppermint gum leaf, wild thyme, pepperberry, wattleseed, anise myrtle and macadamia. SO WHERE TO NOW? While pink drinks (and gin in particular) have been pretty to look at, the work they have really done is introducing a new world of flavours to the consumer palate. The best pink gins haven’t added sugars or sweetening elements but rather have let the subtleties of true botanical and fruit notes to come to the surface. Without the added sugar of how we’ve understood some of these ingredients previously, consumers get to understanding fruit like strawberry, rhubarb and botanicals in their truest dry, sweet, spicy, dry and savoury character. It’s ultimately all about flavour, which is why colour won’t matter quite as much as flavour and local ingredients – despite the eternal appeal of blue drinks. It will also mean a resurgence of these unique gins as cocktail ingredients, where they can truly shine. n THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 9

wine insight

vegan wines

THE YEAR OF

Vegan wine is becoming more prevalent amongst our most popular varietals – but what makes a wine vegan… or non-vegan? Caro Jensen, co-founder of Sip NZ and drinkfo.com explains. hen KFC launches a vegan chicken burger, you know that a niche lifestyle is about to turn mainstream. The Economist predicted late last year that 2019 is going to be the ‘Year of the Vegan’ and Kiwis are at the forefront when it comes to finding out more about veganism, ranking third in vegan-related Google searches over the last year. Vegans regularly fill forums with lengthy posts about whether Nutella or Oreos are 100% vegan or not. Unfortunately, wine often makes vegan blacklists, potentially turning new generations of wine drinkers away from the category that doesn’t want to study the intricate details of winemaking practices. In the end, it all comes down to the ‘fine’ details - the process of clarifying a wine with fining agents. Young wines are hazy and contain tiny molecules such as proteins, tartrates and harsh tannins and the fining process helps clarify those, but it can also improve its colour and flavour. Animal-derived fining agents are commonly used in red, sparkling, or white wines, making those wines unsuitable for a vegan diet. These include blood and bone marrow, casein (milk protein), chitin (fibre from crustacean shells), egg albumen (derived from egg whites), fish oil, gelatin (protein from boiling animal parts), and isinglass (gelatin from fish bladder membranes). Those agents, however, are processing aids, not additives to the wine, as they are filtered out along with the haze molecules. Traces of animal-derived agents may be present in the wine, therefore making them unsuitable for a vegan diet. However, there are several fining agents that are suitable to make vegan wine. Carbon, bentonite clay, limestone, kaolin clay, plant casein and silica gel are some alternatives for winemakers to choose from. Another alternative method is… time! Most wines, if left long enough, will self-stabilise and self-fine. Gravity will simply do the Caro Jensen work. Especially amongst

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organic and biodynamic winemakers, this lowintervention method is often used to get their wines market-ready. For consumers it’s down to the ‘fine’ print as to whether a wine is vegan or not. Thanks to the NZ Foods Standards Code, the presence of fining agents as potential allergen products must be declared on the back label of a wine. An increasing number of wineries also use the vegan logo (a green V symbol) to clearly state the benefit of their wine being suitable for a plant-based diet. A smart move in 2019 that will hopefully excite consumers’ taste buds more than a certain vegan ‘chicken’ burger. n

Bentonite clay

There are at least

275

vegan wines available in New Zealand

For a full list, head to www.vegetarians.co.nz/articles/newzealand-vegan-wine-list/

Carbon

DROWSY FISH

SUSTAINABLE FISHING. SUSTAINABLE GROWTH.

Available online at crownrangecellar.com and serving now at the Crown Range Cellar Wine Lounge 251 Parnell Road, Auckland. Tel: 0800 272 3552 or (09) 307 7966 | crownrangecellar.com

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f Sauvignon Blanc was a song, then it would probably sound like the opening few bars of a heavy metal track – I Was Made For Loving You by Kiss (1979) is what’s playing in my mind right now. Not only does Sauvignon Blanc have a distinctive and very recognisable beat and rhythm - a loud bouquet - it often hits the palate with a core of energy and style that makes it, well, a bit like a heavy metal song. So there’s no mistaking this variety, with its pungent, fresh and crunchy texture, sweet herbs, tropical fruit, peach, citrus, apple, gooseberry and grass/hay characters. These are typical of the variety grown in cool climate appellations. New Zealand’s southerly location, strong maritime influences and narrow shape gives rise to this type of cool climate needed for such intense aromas and flavours. Classified as cool climate, promoting naturally higher acid levels, yet warm enough and with abundant sunlight to fully ripen the variety in almost any part of the country. Hawke’s Bay, Wairarapa, Nelson, Marlborough, North Canterbury and Central Otago have these attributes and can produce some excellent examples. While some Sauvignon Blanc can be made in a generic style, and these wines sell well, there are regional differences to be discovered as well. For example, Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blancs often show a riper more intense yellow peach and sweeter tropical fruit characters with less herbaceous drive, while a Marlborough version can often taste of pink grapefruit, basil, thyme, passionfruit and be very herbaceous (these are just some of the descriptors). Central Otago expressions often have a mineral core, dried thyme and white peach character. Regardless of origin and individual expression, Sauvignon Blanc is a great match with foods that are light-weight, high-energy and with a noticeable freshness or higher acid content, such as salads with radishes and apple, pickled vegetables and even oysters or mussels with fresh lemon juice.

Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. An experienced wine writer, commentator, judge, reviewer, presenter and consultant, he is academically in charge of the Wine and Beverage Programme at AUT University in Auckland and is Patron of the New Zealand Sommeliers and Wine Professionals Association. Douglas consults to a variety of establishments, taking care of their wine lists, wine and food pairings, and staff training matters and he currently serves on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas. 12 | AUGUST 2019 | THE SHOUT NZ

tasting notes AUNTSFIELD SOUTH OAKS BARREL FERMENTED MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 Complex and developing bouquet with aromas and flavours of baking spices and lemon pepper, baked apple and wood smoke, ripe peach and vanilla. A weighty and complex wine with a youthful acid line, nutty oak flavour, some pristine fine tannins and long varietal finish. Complex and very enjoyable. Drink now and through 2025+. Points 96 RRP $38.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 578 0622 www.auntsfield.co.nz

SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE WAIRAU RESERVE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 Fragrant, fruity, varietal and enticing bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc. Classic, bold and very expressive with aromas and flavours of sweet and tart passionfruit, spicy pear and apple, a stony mineral core and leesy ginger spice note. No mistaking the sweet herbs of basil and thyme, high acidity and lengthy finish. Lots to like. Drink now and through 2022. Points 94 RRP $33.90 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 578 8695 www.saintclair.co.nz

PALLISER ESTATE 2018 SAUVIGNON BLANC MARTINBOROUGH Lovely bouquet and palate of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours of wet rocks and silty earth, mixed with whitefleshed stone fruits and sweet citrus; some delicate fruit spice moments, lively acidity that dances on the palate and a lengthy persistent finish. This wine a has a definitive core of fruit, a fleshy texture and lively acidity, satin mouth feel and moderate weight. Drink now and through 2023. Points 92 RRP $28.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (0800) 634 624 www.palliser.co.nz

DOMAIN ROAD VINEYARD BANNOCKBURN CENTRAL OTAGO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 Complex and enticing bouquet of Sauvignon Blanc with aromas and flavours of angelica and apple, pear and minerals, white flowers and sweet herbs. Balanced, fresh, quite complex and dry on the finish. Additonal flavours of preserved lemon and barley sugar, some white blossom and gooseberry. Well made, drink now and through 2021. Points 94 RRP $23.00 Distributor: Co Pilot Phone: (03) 445 4244 www.domainroad.co.nz

SEIFRIED NELSON SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 Aromas of tropical fruits and white peach, sweet herbs, hay and nettles then stony soil suggestions. Very crisp, youthful and refreshing acid line, flavours of tropical and citrus, white stone fruit and herbs on the palate. Lengthy finish, lots to like, well made and not quite ready. Best enjoyed midsummer 2020 through 2022. Points 93 RRP $18.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (0508) 4 WINES www.seifried.co.nz

RT WINES WILD WAVES MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 Varietal and gently spicy with aromas of herbs and citrus fruits, some grapefruit and apple then a light saline moment. A modern expression of Sauvignon Blanc with a more delicate set of flavours, but still showing cool climate acidity and intensity. Balanced and well made, a wine to consider cellaring to discover its evolution over the next three to six years. Points 90 RRP $18.00 Distributor: Currently looking for a distributor, please phone below Phone: (027) 410 1745 www.rtwines.co.nz

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ALLAN SCOTT MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 White smoke and white-fleshed fruits, citrus blossoms and apple, sweet hay and freshly gathered herbs of basil and thyme. Some classic aromas of tropical fruit with a definitive grapefruit and green apple flavour. Youthful, crisp and firm texture, lengthy finish. Enjoy from the beginning of summer 2020 and through 2024. Points 94 RRP $18.00 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirits and Beer Merchants Phone: (03) 572 9054 www.allanscott.com

Wines are scored out of 100 points and are listed in no particular order. Numbers are not indicative of a ranking.

WAIRAU RIVER ESTATE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2019 Unmistakable aromas of tropical fruits and citrus, sweet grass and wet stone. On the palate - flavours of pineapple and passionfruit, red apple and peach. Additional flavours of lemongrass and galangal, wet stones and minerals. Crisp and dry on the finish. Drink now and through 2022. Points 92 RRP $20.00 Distributor: Federal Merchants Phone: (03) 572 7950 www.wairauriverwines.com/

SACRED HILL RESERVE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 Spicy and smoky, varietal, fruity, herbaceous and tempting. Aromas and flavours of barrel spices and ripe grapefruit, apple and baked stone fruits and custard. Nice creamy texture, youthful acid line, lengthy finish showing off spice, oak and fruit attributes. Drink now and through 2024. Points 92 RRP $21.99 Distributor: Quench Collective Ltd Phone: (06) 879 8760 www.sacredhill.com

SAINT CLAIR FAMILY ESTATE ORIGIN MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 Aromas of white peach and grapefruit, some passionfruit, apple and floral moments with a whisper of spice. Crisp, fruity, varietal, refreshing and just dry on the finish. A very light creamy texture, luscious and fresh, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2021. Points 90 RRP $18.90 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (03) 578 8695 www.saintclair.co.nz

ARA SINGLE ESTATE MARLBOROUGH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2018 Aromas of lemongrass, sweet hay, grapefruit, mango and pineapple. Crisp, dry, fruity and ready with flavours of apples and citrus fruits, tropical notes of passionfruit and pineapple. Herbaceous grassy notes begin to emerge on the finish. Balanced and well made, drink now and through 2021. Points 89 RRP $19.99 Distributor: Giesen Group Phone: (03) 344 6270 www.giesenwines.co.nz

THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 13

romatics are a category of wine that have a distinctive, sometimes intense aroma of flowers, ripe white-fleshed fruits, musk, candy and spices. These translate easily to the palate as flavours, as well as the palate intensifying the aromas even more. Aromatic wines can be very powerful and present interesting food and wine pairing challenges. The texture of these wines is often described as creamy or oily, finished with a spiciness. The term ‘aromatic’ refers to a specific category of white grape varieties that contain an extra set of naturally-occurring compounds called ‘terpenes’. Terpenes enhance and even amplify the spice, fruit and floral scents of wine. This makes them particularly distinctive. The following wines are classified as aromatic or semi-aromatic and are regularly available in New Zealand: Würzer, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Torrontes, Albarińo, Riesling, Müller Thurgau and Pinot Gris. Each of these wines are floral, fruity and intense on both the nose and palate, with moderate acidity. Textures ranges from soft and creamy to satin or silky and crisp. Gewürztraminer is the most intense and exotic of the aromatic varieties, with flavours of tropical fruits, roses and spices. Descriptors such as lavender, talcum powder, pineapple, white pepper and even apple strudel have been used to describe the wine. The most popular of the aromatic varieties is Pinot Gris. Strictly speaking Pinot Gris is semi-aromatic - it is not as floral or intense as a Muscat or Gewürztraminer. The aroma and flavour package of Gris is relatively simple - fruity, mouth-filling, without being cumbersome or too complex and often, with just a little residual sweetness, it can be enjoyed with or without most white or yellow proteins (chicken, fish and pasta). Pear skin and poached pear, yellow or red apple, white spice like pepper and Asian pear are typical descriptors. Medium weight and acidity and mostly with no wood flavours, or the use of old wood for structure, and some complexity. Some of the more enjoyable examples I have encountered recently have been made using indigenous ferment techniques and a touch of older wood. 14 | AUGUST 2019 | THE SHOUT NZ

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tasting notes

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TIKI KORO WAIPARA NOBLE RIESLING 2017 Golden yellow leading to intense aromas and flavours of apricot and peach, honey and ginger, beeswax and lemon. Thick and creamy, spicy, fruity and delicious. High acidity and sugar to match with a spicy preserved lemon and baked custard finish. Drink now before anybody else finds this gem. Points 95 RRP $34.99 Distributor: Federal Merchants & Co Phone: (03) 326 5551 www.tikiwine.com

SEIFRIED NELSON GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2019 Immensely floral with lavender and rose, acacia flower and fruit perfumes. There’s a subtle delicate side as well, showing some minerality, kombucha and cider notes. Fleshy, fresh, crisp and dry on the palate with flavours of everything that the nose suggested. Medium acidity, youthful textures, balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2023. Points 94 RRP $18.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (0508) 4 WINES www.seifried.co.nz

BLACK BARN VINEYARDS HAWKE’S BAY PINOT GRIS 2018 Aromas of ripe tropical fruits, grapefruit and wet stone layers. Delicious on the palate with flavours of red apple and tropical fruits, white peach and baking spices, plenty of acidity and light weight. A lovely texture adding complexity, length and charm. Drink now and through 2021. Points 94 RRP $26.00 Distributor: Negociants NZ Phone: (06) 877 7985 www.blackbarn.com

LAKE CHALICE THE FALCON MARLBOROUGH RIESLING 2019 A classic bouquet of Riesling with aromas of apple and lemon, white peach and stony, earthy qualities. Off-dry at first then a sound acid line turns the wine drier, adding texture, crispness and highlighting some nice pure fruit flavours. Balanced, even, persistent and ready with flavours of ripe lemon, apple, pear and white peach. Drink now and through 2026. Points 93 RRP $18.99 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirits and Beer Merchants Phone: (0800) 699 463 www.lakechalice.com

JACKSON ESTATE MARLBOROUGH DRY RIESLING 2016 Pungent, fragrant, floral, a mineral core of wet stone, citrus and tree fruit. Delicious on the palate with fleshy green and red apple flavours, some pear, lemon and white rose. Dry with a lighter weight, abundant acidity and crisp refreshing finish. Drink now and through 2024. Points 93 RRP $20.00 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirits and Beer Merchants Phone: (03) 572 9500 www.jacksonestate.co.nz

GIESEN ESTATE RIESLING 2018 Fragrant and enticing bouquet with aromas of sweet citrus, honeysuckle, white-fleshed tree fruits and flowers. Off-dry style with an immediate sweetness, tempered by high acidity and flavours of honeysuckle, white peach, sweet lemon and tropical fruits. Balanced and well made. Ideal for moderately spicy seafood and poultry dishes. Drink now and through 2024. Points 92 RRP $14.99 Distributor: Giesen Group Phone: (03) 344 6270 www.giesenwines.co.nz

TOI TOI RESERVE MARLBOROUGH RIESLING 2018 Intense aromas lemon and green apple with jasmine and white rose, wet stone and lots of energy. Crisp, tense, youthful and dry. Flavours reflect the nose - all equally intense with long finish and developing complexity. Best drinking from 2021 through 2031. Points 92 RRP $30 Distributor: Toi Toi Wines Phone: (09) 972 9498 www.toitoiwines.co.nz

Wines are scored out of 100 points and are listed in no particular order. Numbers are not indicative of a ranking.

PASK HAWKE’S BAY VIOGNIER 2018 Bold and richly fruited on the nose, with some wood spices and ripe fruit adding weight, shape and intensity. Immediately varietal on the palate with flavours of ginger-spiced apricot, baked apple and peach. Medium acidity with a bite of oak adding firmness and structure with, a whisper of bacon, alcohol adding warmth and sweetness. Overall a delicious wine, weighty, rich and distinctive. Drink now and through 2022 Points 92 RRP $25.00 Distributor: Hancocks Wine, Spirits and Beer Merchants Phone: (06) 879 7906 www.pask.co.nz

SEIFRIED NELSON GRÜNER VELTLINER 2019 Classic bouquet of Grüner with a mix of white pepper and radish, crisp white-fleshed tree fruits, citrus and apple moments. As the wine opens up, these ideas get louder and stronger. Dry, crisp, youthful and tense on the palate. A young wine needing some development time to release and harmonise all the attributes on display. Decent finish and well made - a wine to watch. Best in cellar till late 2020, then enjoy through 2026. Points 92 RRP $18.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (0508) 4 WINES www.seifried.co.nz

SEIFRIED NELSON WÜRZER 2019 Very fragrant, floral, spicy and tropical with aromas and flavours of white spices and lychee, pears and flowers, lemon and apple. Crisp, refreshing, just-dry with a light sweet moment, balanced and well made with a lengthy floral and spicy finish. Drink now and through 2021. Points 90 RRP $18.00 Distributor: Seifried Estate Phone: (0508) 4 WINES www.seifried.co.nz

GIESEN RIESLING BLUSH 2018 Classic aromas of Riesling with red apple and citrus then whispers of Bing cherry and a hint of strawberry. Off-dry style, juicy and fleshy in texture. Flavours of red apple and light red fruits re-emerge. Fresh, crisp, easy to enjoy and balanced. Ready to drink now and through 2023. Points 88 RRP $14.99 Distributor: Giesen Group Phone: (03) 344 6270 www.giesenwines.co.nz

THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 15

r l e a v t i t s n e i f w ales

It’s 4:30am. My phone’s alarm pulls me from a deep sleep and into a confused, semiconscious state. This is just the first of four alarms that I’ve set to insure that I don’t miss my flight from the Bay of Islands Airport in the Far North, down to Wellington for this year’s Winter Ales Festival. Though Nelson’s hop growers might disagree, it’s pretty widely accepted that Wellington is New Zealand’s craft beer capital. Not only is it home to an everincreasing abundance of breweries, but it is also home to numerous beer festivals, competitions and events, such as the well-known Beervana festival. Thousands of beer lovers across the country travel along ‘the road to Beervana’ to Wellington’s Westpac Stadium, just to sample hundreds of beers from breweries across the country and abroad. While Beervana is certainly a fantastic festival – and one not to be missed – it is the humbler Winter Ales Festival that has got me out of bed at such an ungodly hour. My first stop on this wintery beercation is The Society of Beer Advocates Annual General Meeting at the Fork & Brewer. SOBA (the Society of Beer Advocates) is a “consumer-based organisation with a mission to educate, promote, and advocate for the appreciation of, and access to, a diverse range of quality beer” in New Zealand. They 16 | AUGUST 2019 | THE SHOUT NZ

fund and/or organise a multitude of beer events across the country each year, as well as hold New Zealand’s national homebrew competition; arguably the heartbeat of New Zealand’s homebrew scene. I happen to be the Far North regional coordinator for SOBA, and SOBA happens to be the organisation behind the Winter Ales Festival. Expertly killing two birds with one stone, SOBA officers decided to hold their annual meeting just hours before the Winter Ales Festival kicks off. Fork Brewing (the brewing wing of the restaurant/brewery combo that is the Fork & Brewer) is located at the top of a steep staircase in the middle of the city’s CBD. This is unusual for a brewery when you consider the literal tonnes of grain that needs to be carried up, and kegs that need to be carried down each month (without the aid of a lift I should add). The stairwell spills out into a row of shiny stainless steel sentinels that usher me towards the brew pub’s iconic circular bar. I am immediately struck by the most impressive house-brewed tap list I have ever seen in New Zealand. Forty-two beers (only two are guest taps), ranging from all manner of IPAs, lagers, sour beers, stouts, and more. Given that it is only 11am, I opt for a handpulled pint of their Pict English Dark Mild. Full bodied and creamy, with notes of toffee, chocolate, and just the right amount of roast, this is the finest example of a Dark Mild I’ve personally ever had.

One windy Saturday, beer writer John Oszajca travelled to the craft beer capital to drink a brew or two with 600 other ale lovers…

John Oszajca To contact John Oszajca regarding beer features or samples, please email him at john@newzealandbrewer.co.nz

beer feature With the meeting, and a second pint of Fork Brewing’s famous Burton Earnie (a hand-pulled Burton Ale) behind me, a few of my fellow SOBA members and head up to the Hunter Lounge, where the Winter Ales Festival is being held. The festival is housed within a huge halllike space, with a second floor balcony that wraps around an otherwise open space. More than 600 people fill the room, literally to the rafters, and lines have already sprouted behind some of the more popular beers. There are 38 beers on tap, (four of which are casked, and two of which are on hand-pull), and there is only one beer on offer from each brewery. The majority (if not, perhaps all) of the beers available are new releases, one-offs, and otherwise festive-or hard to find-beers. My comrades and I disperse in an attempt to grab a glass of whatever had most caught our eye on the beer list. I kick things off with a half-glass full of New Reserve Barleywine, a 10.5% ABV Barleywine that was brewed as a collaboration between North End Brewery and Emerson’s. The beer is rich in notes of bread crust and marmalade and has the added appeal of being served on hand-pull. Next, I make my way over to the Sawmill Brewery tap to try my first White Stout, a beer that I’ve written about but never had the pleasure of trying. A White Stout is a pale beer that is typically brewed using herbs, nuts, spices, and specialty malts to create those signature Stout-like flavours without the use of any actual dark malts. In this case, Sawmill used cocoa nibs, coffee beans, and vanilla pods for flavour, and a generous portion of oats and wheat to give the beer body. A unique, and well-brewed beer to be sure, but one that leaves this beer fan feeling that I have just enjoyed a coffee pale ale more than anything actually approaching a Stout. Next up is Friends in the Wild #4 from Wilderness Brewing. Friends in the Wild #4 is a mixed ferment, pale sour beer, brewed with honeydew melon and Huell Melon hops. The acidity level on this beer is neither subtle, nor overbearing, allowing the deliciously barnyard flavours of Brettanomyces to shine through along with the subtle-but-present notes of honeydew melon. Perhaps this is not for everyone, but I thoroughly enjoyed this beer. As the day draws on, I sample all manner of delicious concoctions, including (but certainly not limited to): Bassline Brewing’s Hello Sailor, a Rum and Raisin Doppelbock; 8 Wired’s Gypsy Fruits, a barrel-aged sour beer with grapefruit; Hey Day Beer Co’s King of Hearts, a Belgian Brown Ale and many more.

“THE MAJORITY (IF NOT PERHAPS ALL) OF THE BEERS AVAILABLE ARE NEW RELEASES, ONEOFFS, AND OTHERWISE FESTIVE-OR HARD TO FIND-BEERS.” But after several hours of the palatecrushing, wild and crazy brews that are so common at beer festivals, I find myself craving – of all things – a beer. Just a simple, balanced, well-brewed beer that simply tastes of malt and hops. No chocolate, rum, or raspberries, no acidity, barnyard funk or experimental hop flavours; just a good old-fashion beer to sip while I enjoy the many conversations I have throughout the day. I find exactly that in Boneface Brewing Company’s modestly titled Belgian Pale Ale. This beer was brewed by the Boneface Staff on their small pilot kit. The resulting beer is a classic Belgian ale, with perfectly balanced fruit and spice, and a pillowy mouthfeel. Only a single keg of this beer was produced for the public and it is on tap at today’s festival. I declare this beer my favourite of the day and soon go back for seconds. However, as odd as it may sound, the defining aspect of the Winter Ale’s Festival is arguably not the beer itself. It is the people. Unlike many of the larger festivals that pull in thousands from far and wide, cost the brewers thousands to participate in, and foster a much more expo-like environment, the Winter Ales Festival has a feeling more akin to an enormous house party. Everyone seems to know someone, and those who don’t are quickly absorbed into someone else’s circle of friends. While many of the brewers are present, they are not pouring the beer, or networking. They are just hanging out, catching up

with friends in the industry, and generally having a good time. This sentiment is expressed frequently by attendees. It feels good, less profit driven, and more about the beer. I catch up with many friends (old and new) within New Zealand’s brewing industry. As a beer writer and podcaster I have interviewed many dozens of brewer’s across New Zealand, but so seldom get to meet them in person due to my geographical isolation in the Far North. Much of that changes today as I finally have the opportunity to share a beer with many of New Zealand’s finest brewers. I enjoy getting to know Kelly Ryan from Fork Brewing, Bruce Turner from Urbanaut, Simon Edward from Black Dog, as well as catching up with more familiar faces such as Jason Bathgate from McLeod’s, Matt Dainty from Boneface, and many more. As quickly as the festival comes to an end, a plan to meet at Bruce Turner (from Urbanaut’s) house for an ‘after party’ is hatched. Soon dozens of brewers and beer-loving Wellingtonians have gathered in his beautiful home for a night of music, dancing, Urbanaut beer, and Shigeo from Funk Estate’s famous cocktails. I woke up the next morning with a cell phone full of hilarious photographs and feeling far less hung over than I expected. As is often the case when I travel somewhere far from home to meet great people, and enjoy an abundance of wonderful food and drink, I feel certain that I’m going to move the family down to Wellington; as I am sure that there could be no better place in New Zealand. It’s a feeling that I know will inevitably fade as the novelty of somewhere new begins to wane. I hit the city once again to soak up what little more I can. There is, however, one last stop I am intent on making before I fly home to the far North. I’m off to the Fork & Brewer. I need to get another pint of that damn Pict British Dark Mild. Man, that’s a good beer! n

More than 600 beer lovers attended the festival

THE SHOUT NZ | AUGUST 2019 | 17