NO.741 APRIL 2018
Tivoli Road Bakery HOW MICHAEL AND PIPPA JAMES TRANSFORMED A BAKERY INTO A SOUTH YARRA DESTINATION
Riding solo
HOW SINGLE DINERS CAN BECOME YOUR BEST CUSTOMERS
Greece meets Tokyo WHY JONATHAN BARTHELMESS OPENED THE APOLLO IN GINZA
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Quality coffee with fresh milk
Ed’s note
April 6
Contents 4 In focus 6 Openings 8 Business profile 12 Column 14 Trends 16 Drinks
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18 Best practice
S
olo diners are on the rise across Australia, with Sydney and Melbourne named as the two states with the highest number of single bookings. When I interviewed Paul Carmichael from Momofuku Seiobo for our feature on solo diners, he posed a question: “Have you ever eaten alone?” At first, I answered, “No; I should try it”, but when I thought about it, of course I had. Work trips often result in solo dining, but admittedly, I wouldn’t spend as much time at a venue as I would if I had company. We’re conditioned to do many things in life as a group, and restaurants are designed to reflect this notion. Tables are set for two, not one, and menus often revolve around shared dishes. So is it time for venues to embrace the growing market? How can restaurants, bars and cafés offer a comfortable experience for solo diners? Check out the feature on page 28. There has also been an increase in Aussie venues opening overseas, and The Apollo’s Jonathan Barthelmess shares his experience opening the Greek restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo. Touching on everything from consumer habits to sourcing ingredients, it’s an eye-opening look at the highs and lows of international expansion. We also interview Michael and Pippa James from Tivoli Road Bakery on page eight and look at pastries that go against tradition. Until next time, Annabelle Cloros Editor
Cover photo credit: Bonnie Savage
20 Kitchen equipment 23 Pâtisserie 28 Solo diners 32 Shelf space
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33 Diary 34 5 minutes with ...
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20
12 PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au
HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422.
JOURNALIST Brittney Levinson T: 02 8586 6194 blevinson@intermedia.com.au ADVERTISING NATIONAL Dan Shipley T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 dshipley@intermedia.com.au DESIGN Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au
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April 2018 Hospitality 3
in focus
The wine
boom
The thirst for Australian wine continues to increase, with global wine exports increasing by 15 per cent.
I
t’s no secret Australia produces some of the best wine in the world, and demand has continued to rise with $2.56 billion worth of wine exported in 2017 according to the Australian Wine Export Report by Wine Australia. The 15 per cent increase is the highest annual growth since 2004 and volumes have increased by 8 per cent to 811 million litres. “Growing demand for premium Australian wine, particularly in northeast Asia, increased the value of bottled wine exports by 17 per cent to $2.1 billion, while the average price per litre for bottled wine grew by 3 per cent to a record $5.63”, says Andreas Clark, Wine Australia CEO.
Mainland China remains one of the biggest markets for Australian wine, with the value of exports increasing by 63 per cent to $848 million. Exports to Europe (1 per cent), South-East Asia (2 per cent) and Oceania (8 per cent) also experienced growth. In good news for the industry, exports of wine priced above $10 per litre grew by 29 per cent to $738 million, signalling a growing appreciation for quality and a higher price point. Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz/Cab Sauv, Chardonnay and Merlot are the top five exported varieties, with Shiraz/ Cab Sauv taking out the top spot at 57 per cent. n
Wine Australia
Export report
Value of the top 5 export markets
Total exports
$2.56 billion China 15%
63%
Mainland China
$848m
63%
Volume
811 million litres
8%
United States
$449m
-2%
Average value
$3.16/litre
7%
United Kingdom
$348m
-2%
Canada
$187m
-3%
Hong Kong
$118m
7%
Exports by price point above $10 18%
-12%
60%
52%
27%
38%
67%
Top 5 exported varieties by label claim
Chardonnay
Merlot
20%
57%
6%
17%
$200*
Shiraz/ Cab Sauv
$10-199.99
Cabernet Sauvignon
$50-99.99
$114m
$30-49.99
$182m
$20-29.99
$187m
$16-19.99
$341m
$10-14.99
$601m
Shiraz
$201m
$77m
$132m
$94m
$164m
$17m
$54m
18%
4 Hospitality April 2018
Openings Some of the latest venues to swing open their doors in Australia’s foodservice scene. 1
Clark St Coffee Public Coffee Bar
Melbourne, Vic Two years in the making, Melbourne’s Clark St Coffee has opened its new Public Coffee Bar. The space offers customers a look into the Richmond roaster’s established wholesale operation, with two-tier bleacher seating in place of conventional café tables and chairs. A range of single-origin coffee is on offer as well as coffee flights with origin information cards. Baked goods by Phillippa Grogan are also on offer.
2
1
Barbetta
Sydney, NSW Paddington has welcomed a new Italian venue, Barbetta, from the owners of Cipri. Alongside the café, there’s also a gourmet food store and food workshop space. The café serves up breakfast and lunch, with dishes including Sicilian buckwheat pancakes with ricotta, figs, choc-chips, honey and crushed cannoli along with spinach and ricotta ravioli with burnt butter and sage. There are also Italian pastries, desserts and cakes on offer made by Barbetta’s pastry chef who hails from Naples.
3
2
Three Blue Ducks
Brisbane, Qld Three Blue Ducks has landed at the newly opened W Brisbane, bringing its paddock-to-plate ethos to Queensland for the first time. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week, with an evolving seasonal menu featuring the best of Queensland and northern New South Wales produce. The kitchen boasts a wood-fired oven, a rotisserie and charcoal pit, as well as a cold seafood section serving Moreton Bay bugs, spanner crab and oysters. A highlight of the menu is spanner crab scramble with green mango, bean shoot salad, house-made sriracha and cashews.
3 4
Hanoi Hannah New Quarter
Melbourne, Vic Hanoi Hannah’s spin-off New Quarter has opened in Richmond, dishing up Vietnamese cuisine in a 110seat dining space. Executive chef Anthony Choi (Circa, Cumulus, Tokyo Tina), together with Mathew John (Momofuku Daisho, Hell of the North), has created a menu that is broken up into smalls, wok, noodle, family style, ribs and wings, salads and desserts. Menu items include char-grilled lemongrass chicken basted in young coconut juice, crispy soft shell crab salad tossed with green mango chili caramel and garlic crumb and turmeric fish topped with chive oil and vermicelli. A takeaway menu is also available featuring pho, banh mi and rice paper rolls.
4 6 Hospitality April 2018
business profile
Caneles
Tivoli Road Bakery Michael and Pippa James were offered an opportunity to buy a bakery, and the husband and wife team have been on the rise ever since. By Annabelle Cloros.
C
hances are you’ve heard of Tivoli Road Bakery — or at least seen their baked goods. Thanks to a solid following on social media, a book and a reputation as one of Australia’s best bakeries, Pippa and Michael’s South Yarra shop in Melbourne garners admiration from around the world for their renowned breads and pastries. Considering the lines and constant customer demand, the Jameses are humble about their little business, making Tivoli Road Bakery all the more endearing. 8 Hospitality April 2018
Banana loaf
Image credits: Bonnie Savage
AN OPPORTUNITY IS BORN Tivoli is the sort of place that looks like it’s always been there. But it wasn’t — Tivoli came to fruition after MoVida Bakery decided to close up shop in 2013. “Michael was working for MoVida as a baker and pastry chef,” says Pippa. “About 15 months in, they offered us the chance to buy it — so we did.” MoVida reopened as Tivoli after a short closure and a deal with Mum. “We had no money,” says Pippa. “I had to call my Mum up to get an emergency loan because I was $20,000 short. We closed for three days and did a deep clean, but we really needed to keep trading. We just rebranded and made slow, incremental changes towards the way we wanted the offering to be.” It was 18 months before they refit the shop, which shows just how fast Pippa and Michael hit the ground running on their passion
project. “We did wholesale to a few key cafés and we’d just pay the bills and the staff. There’s not a huge lot of profit in baking — we just make a nice product for the customers,” says Michael.
LESSONS LEARNED Michael and Pippa had never run a business solo before they took the leap with Tivoli, and there were a few hurdles at the start. With Michael taking care of the food offering, Pippa took up the management reins, covering everything from finances to staffing. “The first lesson I learned was to handle your own books,” says Pippa. “I worked in a senior management capacity before at other restaurant groups and I outsourced the bookkeeping. In hindsight, I didn’t have much experience with that.” Pippa decided to bring the bookkeeping in-
business profile
Monte Carlos
house after quickly realising outsourcing wasn’t working for Tivoli. “The people I was getting to do the job didn’t really understand the business, and that was really hard,” she says. “In the end, I did it myself as it was easier. We were able to have a better handle on how we were tracking much faster once I took over.” In the beginning, Pippa relied on the advice of a close friend she used to work with — who also happened to be an accountant. “She did a lot of the setup with me and really helped me. I already understood reading P&Ls and what to watch out for in terms of managing costs and all that kind of stuff, but in terms of the week in, week out, paying suppliers and pay roll — she taught me a lot about that.”
STAFFING Tivoli started small when it came to their team, but an increase in popularity and an
Bundt cakes
extra operating day proved difficult for a handful of staff to navigate. “When we first started opening on Mondays, I was in the kitchen — and I’m not a chef,” says Pippa. “We only had one barista and I used to help him when he needed it.” The bakery now has 18 staff, with the front of house expanding from one to four, which is essential with a growing customer base. “Front of house has grown as the shop is quite busy,” says Michael. Pippa and Michael focus on open communication with staff, which has led to the business having low turnover levels when it comes to employees, with many working at the bakery for a number of years. “We put a lot of [effort] into making it a nice place to work in spite of the 3am starts and physical nature of the work,” says Pippa. “We sit down with them one-on-one on a regular basis and
“We’re happy with our local, independent, family-run bakery ... We just want to make good products.” – Michael James April 2018 Hospitality 9
business profile
do appraisal stuff and talk to them about what they want to learn and do.” Tivoli also fosters a culture of progression inside and outside the workplace, which is important for staff motivation. “Our head baker has been with us for four years and we made her head baker early last year,” says Michael. “We try to train them up.” Pippa and Michael are also encouraging of staff who wish to progress their careers outside the store. “Our head chef really wants to get into food styling, and he got some great exposure to that when we did our book,” says Pippa. “We are supportive of him using our contacts and even our kitchen if he wants to do test shoots. Another example is our shop manager who has a sideline business which is starting to grow, so she’s dropping a day so she can continue to do that while working with us. We’re not rigid in terms of an employer–employee relationship. I don’t know if that’s common in our industry.”
SELF-MARKETING Tivoli Road is incredibly invested in social media, with Instagram serving as their main platform of choice. The bakery has nearly 34,000 followers that all tune in for their daily pastry hit. It’s also an effective method to advertise products, including the bakery’s weekend specials. “It’s our main way of showing the world what we’re up to,” says Michael. “When we do specials, for example wattleseed sourdough, if you post a photo, it’s pretty much going to sell it. But if you don’t, it may struggle. I’ve really noticed a difference in the past two to three years — it helps us sell a lot.”
Michael and Pippa James
“We put a lot of [effort] into making it a nice place to work in spite of the 3am starts and physical nature of the work.” – Pippa James Wattleseed sourdough
SCALING BACK Despite the fact Tivoli could easily fill a bigger space — and it’s one of the most frequently asked questions — the Jameses are content with what they’ve got. “We’re happy with our local, independent, family-run bakery, so there are no plans at the moment,” says Michael. “We just want to make good products and keep an eye on things.” With no expansion plans on the cards in the immediate future, they have decided to take things down a notch in other areas. “We’ve scaled back some of our production,” says Pippa. “We’ve dropped a bit of wholesale and we’re taking a break from farmers markets to see how it makes it more manageable. Last year, it got to the point where equipment was breaking all the time and everything was pushed to the limit.” For now, Pippa and Michael are happy with their evolving business and the success that has come with their offering. “We use local, seasonal ingredients and we work directly with a lot of small producers,” says Pippa. “We are supporting the little guys and doing the right thing.” n 10 Hospitality April 2018
Croissants
Raspberry tart
CONVENIENCE Our trucks supply you with fresh oil in minutes, while our used oil trucks remove all of your spent oil, giving you time to focus on the more important elements in the kitchen.
column
Greece meets Tokyo Jonathan Barthelmess and Sam Christie opened a Greek restaurant in the heart of Tokyo. Here, he talks cultural differences, the struggle to find the right ingredients in Japan and the differences between Australian and Japanese customers.
T
Image credit: Nikki To 12 Hospitality April 2018
he Apollo Ginza came about when Sam Christie and I met our business partners on a research trip to New York. It started as a conversation three years ago, and that conversation turned into reality when we opened the venue in 2016. Communication and cultural differences can be challenging. Most of our staff are Japanese, but there are a couple of ex-pats as well. The team has been working together now for over two years, and I feel we all have an understanding of each other’s expectations. Cultural differences are all better for the experience! Additionally, we have a number of staff members who work at both the Sydney and Tokyo venues. Getting produce has been difficult. There are plenty of European, Italian and French products available, but no Greek ingredients. We had to work with the Greek Embassy and the Australian Embassy to get the right suppliers. We have kept the key ingredients of olive oil, fresh seafood and vegetables cooked over a wood fire, but there are some new additions such as Japanese beef and fresh roe for the taramasalata instead of cured. We use locally sourced Japanese produce that changes seasonally in Japan — it’s definitely a more seasonal menu than Australia. We’re also showcasing Australian and Japanese beef in Tokyo, which we don’t have on the menu in Sydney. The biggest difference between Australian and Japanese customers is lunchtime dining. The Japanese clientele expect and enjoy set menus for lunch, which we have embraced at The Apollo Ginza. We have tailored The Apollo to embrace Japanese produce rather than tailor it to the Japanese market — it is extremely important to stay true to what The Apollo is. We are very lucky to be a part of such a great, energetic city. I love it! n
Trends
A snack menu can open your venue to new customers and provide the opportunity to capitalise on a nation with a penchant for food at any time of the day. Paper Bird, The Dolphin and 10 William Street are three venues nailing the afternoon ritual. By Annabelle Cloros.
Paper Bird's popcorn Image credit: Nikki To
A
Snack time
ccording to research from Mintel, 31 per cent of Australians regularly consume snacks in place of a meal, signalling a demand for smaller food options. Afternoon snacking is also on the rise, teamed with shorter dining periods and the prevalence of casualisation. A snacks menu offers customers a relaxed, no-frills experience at a venue. Here, The Dolphin’s Monty Koludrovic, 10 William Street’s Enrico Tomelleri and Paper Bird’s Ben Sears discuss their experiences with snack menus.
HIGH DEMAND While some venues have always had small plates on offer, The Dolphin in Surry Hills introduced a series of weekly events revolving around drinks and snacks — or aperitivo, as they refer to it. Guest chefs including Ben Shewry and Analiese Gregory have cooked at the venue, producing menus with accompanying drinks that vary between $5 and $7. “When we set out with the program, we really wanted to get everyone together 14 Hospitality April 2018
and we believed in the power of creating a gathering place,” says Koludrovic. “The people we invite want to showcase what they do; it’s a forum.” 10 William Street doubles as a destination for food and wine, so snack options were a natural addition to their menu. “We always like to have some snacks on offer, especially because we are a wine bar and a restaurant,” says Tomelleri. “A lot of customers come in for snacks and wine in the evening between five and seven.” Sears agrees, and has noticed diners who will only come in for a few drinks and small plates rather than order from the main menu. “We definitely have people just eating from the snacks menu in the bar,” he says.
WHAT MAKES A GOOD SNACK? The consensus of a quality snack revolves around morsels that are salty, fatty and can be enjoyed with a drink — but it’s equally important to offer dishes that reflect a venue’s overall food ethos. “Ideally, snacks should be fun; whimsy is an ingredient we use a lot in our snack offerings,”
26-month parma, farinata and smoked mayo
says Sears. “I also like things that are eaten with your hands and have a messy, tactile quality.” Paper Bird’s east-Asian influence is just as present on the snacks menu as it is on the main menu, with the offering spanning everything from seasoned popcorn to prawn toast. “The menbosha is a little finger sandwich of prawn toast and coleslaw, which Eun Hee [Paper Bird co-owner] picked up from Korean Chinese restaurants in Seoul and refined,” says Sears. “We also do Chongqing’s spicy chicken wings and olives fried in panko seasoned with sansho pepper.” Tomelleri sticks to customer staples including a vegetarian or vegan option along with charcuterie and cheese dishes. “The pretzel with bottarga is always on the menu because it’s salty and goes well with wine,” he says. “We also do a chickpea pancake with prosciutto and try to play around with anchovies, which go well with wine and spritz.” As for The Dolphin’s offering, it changes every week depending on the guest chef’s concept. “Mostly, they do their own thing,” says Koludrovic. “Ultimately, the chef determines what we serve.”
ATTRACTING NEW CUSTOMERS Not all diners want to invest in a three-course meal, so a snacks menu available at the bar or in the restaurant is a good way to cater to a diverse range of consumers. The Dolphin has tapped into a new market that has embraced the aperitivo concept with vigour. So much so, a couple referred to as The Venezuelans held their own evening in February after they attended all 30 events last year, proving
the value of repeat customers. “Once you come to one, it’s hard to stop,” says Koludrovic. Paper Bird has also witnessed snack-savvy consumers who utilise the venue for its proximity to entertainment venues and other restaurants. “Some people just want to have a drink and a light snack,” says Sears. “It might be before they dine elsewhere for their main meal or before/after the theatre.”
FINANCIAL PERKS Due to the low price point of snacks, there aren’t many dollars to be made. However, a snacks menu can help minimise food waste and people are more likely to indulge in another cocktail or a glass of wine if they’re enjoying food, too. “Snacks on their own are not necessarily profitable, and the price and amount someone consumes is low,” says Sears. “But when it is combined with a drink or two, then it becomes profitable.”
Koludrovic doesn’t apply food-cost formulas to dishes on the aperitivo menu, and instead chooses to focus on the bigger picture: fostering engagement between chefs, producers and consumers. “To be able to have a business around the wine room that allows us to do this is beneficial to the venue,” he says. “But it’s not a win financially — that’s why we don’t pay the chefs to come.” Tomelleri gets creative with his snacks offering, and uses off-cuts from the main menu that would otherwise end up in the bin. The bonito crudo is made using fish heads from larger dishes, ensuring minimal waste. “If you’re smart, you use off-cuts or other products from the main menu,” he says. “Margin-wise, it’s important for a restaurant.” From catering to after-work consumers or providing options to those who stray away from conventional meals, snacks are a tiny but mighty addition to a menu. n
“Ideally, snacks should be fun; whimsy is an ingredient we use a lot in our snack offerings. I also like things that are eaten with your hands and have a messy, tactile quality.” – Ben Sears Ddokbeokkki from Paper Bird Image credit: Nikki To
April 2018 Hospitality 15
Bubble coffee, cold brew and an iced latte from Industry Beans
cold coffee
Keep it
cool Cold coffee options have changed the face of the industry, giving flat whites a run for their money. By Annabelle Cloros.
C
old brew, cold drip and nitro are fast becoming the beverage of choice for coffee drinkers. No longer restricted to the warmer months, coffee connoisseurs are enjoying iced varieties all year round. There’s no doubt cold coffee options have gained momentum across the US, and Australia has followed suit. In 2018, you would be hard pressed to come across a café that doesn’t offer an iced latte at the bare minimum, with a large number extending their offering to cold brew and cold drip.
RISING IN THE POPULARITY STAKES The increased presence of cold coffee options can be filtered down to two elements — curiosity and education. “Generally, I think people are very curious to try new things and people are open to trying other coffee beverages that have the richness and flavour of coffee without being laden with milk,” says Hazel de los Reyes, owner of Coffee Alchemy. “Cold brews and drip options without a lot of milk offer a refreshing, lighter coffee beverage.” Cam Stephens from Mecca Coffee agrees, and believes consumer education and awareness has collectively risen. “I think education across the board has increased quite a bit,” he says. “The diversity of good-quality cold coffees has started to let people know it’s a worthwhile process.” 16 Hospitality April 2018
EARLY ADOPTERS Melbourne roasters Industry Beans took cues from the movement in the US and were one of the first in Australia to add cold brew to their offering. “It just started to get going and we were brewing it in a homemade device in our first café,” says co-owner Trevor Simmons. “We started off with cold brew and slow cold immersion, and we’ve got cold brew on keg now. The US is really good at the filter market and Australia has always had a strong espresso culture, so I think the two together is a really nice combination.” Coffee Alchemy offers a range of cold coffee options including cold drip, cold brew with milk and a sparkler — a carbonated brewed coffee served cold over ice in a beer glass. They’ve also recently experimented with tonic and coffee, discovering the bitterness of both liquids cancel each other out. “We have introduced cold options over the years,” says de los Reyes. “We tend to experiment first and determine if it’s something we would drink ourselves — we don’t introduce it for the sake of being novel. Hot batch brew over ice is really nice and we all took it up as our favourite chilled coffee drink. Ice batch brew is the new thing that’s become popular among our regulars.” Mecca introduced nitro coffee three years ago, and it has become a beverage the company is widely known for. “We launched nitro mid2015 and were inspired by some of the roasters in the US who were
playing around with nitro,” says Stephens. “Three years ago, we had to educate people on what nitro was and now people request it. It’s been gradually getting more popular — in fact, I can see three people drinking one now. It has a word-of-mouth reputation, too and we have complete groups come in to try it — it’s a destination beverage.”
HIGHER PRICE POINT There are a number of factors that go into cold coffee’s higher price point including beans, labour and packaging. On average, consumers are spending over $5 for a cold coffee, and most are more than willing to cough up the extra cash. Industry Beans, Mecca and Coffee Alchemy all use single-origin beans in their cold offerings to achieve a beverage that displays regional characteristics. “The amount of labour is a lot more than your standard coffee and the size of the drink is also much larger,” says James. “A standard latte is 200mL, whereas these are around 330mL.” Stephens agrees, citing labour as a significant driver when it comes to price. “The labour aspect is a major part because we batch-brew the coffee and there’s a longer process from prepping and kegging to charging,” he says. At Coffee Alchemy, customers are happy to spend more for an experience that strays from the norm. “Because it’s not a regular menu item, people appreciate the flavour and will pay for these special drinks — especially those who consume them regularly,” says de los Reyes. “It’s a good variation on the menu for cafés, and there are some possible margins to be had on these items.”
“Three years ago, we had to educate people on what nitro was and now people request it.” – Cam Stephens
FLAVOUR PROFILE Due to the use of single-origin beans, cold coffees showcase a range of flavour notes that would largely be suppressed if used in a milk-based option. From floral and fruit accents to liquor-like characteristics, there’s a realm of notes consumers can enjoy. “Single-estate coffee has to have enough body, but there’s a lot of fruit in there as well,” says de los Reyes. “It could be either citrus, berry-like fruits, dark stewed fruits or stone fruits. It can also be very floral — you can have an Ethiopian with jasmine and apricot notes coming through.” Customers of Industry Beans have remarked cold brew exhibits whisky-like characteristics. “It’s the polar opposite of an espresso, so it’s a lighter, watery consistency, but the flavour has been reduced down so it’s more intense,” says James. “We offer a range of single origins so flavour notes can range from dark chocolate and rum to light, fruity, strawberry and stone fruits which you get with some of these Kenyan coffees.” Compared to beans used in milk-based coffees, Mecca roasts their beans for a shorter period of time to ensure there is no sharpness or bitterness present. “The coffees aren’t roasted quite as dark,” says Stephens. “They are roasted to a point where they will exhibit most of their regional characters such as fruit or floral. They wouldn’t work in a milk coffee because it would overwhelm the beans — cold coffee allows a broader flavour spectrum.”
FUTURE GROWTH The general consensus is a logical one — cold coffee options will keep getting better as they become more prevalent. And thanks to Australia’s warm climate, consumers are drinking cold beverages throughout the year, making it a profitable addition to a menu. “The more cold coffee is offered, the more competitive it becomes and compels us to become better at what we offer,” says de los Reyes. “People will make a choice about better-tasting cold coffee and become more discerning. The offering will taste better each year because it’s what consumers expect, leaving us to get on with the business of improving the flavour.” n April 2018 Hospitality 17
best practice
Tips to
successfully expand your business
Does restaurant expansion have to equal failure? Here, points to consider before expanding. By Ken Burgin.
I
t seems like restaurant groups are constantly downsizing and franchises are experiencing dramas. Isn’t growth supposed to be a good thing? The belief in expansion seems to be wired into our brains. As soon as your café is successful, people are asking when you’re opening the next one. You’re already working a 12-hour day — why not do 24? Let’s be blunt; expansion doesn’t work when profits don’t multiply at the same rate as openings. One store is making $2000 per week, so why can’t 10 stores make $20,000 per week? Because you can’t multiply a vigilant owner, you need systems to replace them, which is where things get tricky. Systems that are weak or absent are often at the root of expansion problems. Selling a proportion of the business (10–20 per cent each) to a restaurant manager and a head chef can almost be as good as having attentive owners, with motivated eyes watching expenses and service. The majority partner can lead strategic direction, marketing and innovation and the minority partner has real skin in the game and can get on with what they do best. It adds more control and overcomes the weakness of one person doing everything.
accounting systems give you the data, and a successful group can now afford a whip-smart financial controller to uncover the opportunities for more savings, better margins and creative use of capital. Borrowing costs come down and negotiation with suppliers is much more successful.
How to make expansion work
GREAT DEALS WITH RENT AND REAL ESTATE
SMART USE OF TECHNOLOGY Utilising technology is essential for internal management and customer interaction. Cloud-based systems for staff management and training, purchasing, sales tracking, accounting and marketing are all essential when it comes to expansion. Although these are broad categories, each has a host of possibilities for standardisation and cost control. Successful operators are always keeping an eye on new tech developments.
RAZOR-SHARP CONTROL OF NUMBERS With good systems, you can watch sales and costs hour by hour and compare venues to keep everyone on their toes. Modern POS and 18 Hospitality April 2018
SEPARATE SALES GROWTH FROM COST CONTROL They’re two parts of a thriving business, and it can be difficult for one person to take on both roles; the bad-ass cost-cutter and the creative, expansive marketer. Once the business grows in size, you can afford two positions and let them do what they’re good at.
RECRUIT THE RIGHT TALENT The impetuous entrepreneur (you) is different to the keen, flexible manager. You want a team of energetic leaders for front and back of house, not creatives who get bored quickly and want to keep changing things. Innovation is too important to be left with one or two people. Training can now be used to develop talent, improve selling skills, boost kitchen productivity and act as a magnet for clever, career-minded hospitality staff.
A successful restaurant group has the P&L and bank support landlords and developers are hungry for. With your strong results, you can negotiate for rents of 4–6 per cent of sales, adding extra margin to your bottom line. Do they want you to pay more? Sorry, there are plenty of other sites looking for good tenants.
MARKETING FOR EXPANSION You can now afford marketing expertise to run campaigns and promotions. Smart use of social media advertising, expert customer loyalty programs, a fresh calendar of events and offers to fill the quieter days should all be integrated into your business. Delivery services can work once you have negotiating power and production systems to ensure it’s profitable. n
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Beetroot-cured salmon with asparagus Will and Steve
New chapter Butcher and the Farmer is embarking on a new chapter that will see the restaurant revamp its food and drink offering with the help of Will and Steve.
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easonal produce designed to be shared is the new philosophy of Sydney restaurant Butcher and the Farmer. Located in Tramsheds, the restaurant has teamed up with Will Stewart and Steve Flood, who have curated a new menu that showcases fresh, seasonal produce. Under Will and Steve’s guidance, the venue is replacing the traditional ‘mains and sides’ approach to a menu specifically designed for sharing. “This area is a foodie destination, and the food savvy are looking for different and innovative experiences,” says Stewart. “That couples with locals who want a venue with consistent, affordable and delicious food.” An open-plan kitchen gives customers a look into the workspace, where produce is often flame grilled and smoked. Dishes include Will and Steve’s signature rolled porchetta with a raw fennel salad and apple caramel; roasted pumpkin wedge with nduja dressing, feta, toasted sourdough and pepitas and sweet potato with truffle pecorino and thyme. “Our smaller dishes are about championing vegetables,” says Flood. “We take simple produce such as pumpkin, sweet potato and baby carrots and add texture and layers of flavour. From the ‘small share plates’ section, you can have charred baby gem, black garlic aioli and aged parmesan or chorizo, corn and pretzel for the table. It’s a nice way of introducing lots of flavour and experiences.” Butcher and the Farmer’s ethos extends to the wine menu as well, which features labels from Australia and around the world. But all share the same values as the restaurant, which revolve around integrity and respect. Underpinning the new phase of the restaurant and driving the new menu is the team’s love for food, the land and the vines. “The idea of Butcher and the Farmer is to experience innovative food, drink great wine and enjoy yourself,” says Flood. So what are you waiting for? Discover more about Butcher and the Farmer and check out the new menu at butcherandthefarmer.com.
Porchetta with brussel sprouts and warm grain salad
Tramsheds Harold Park, Shop 7, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge NSW 2037 April 2018 Hospitality 19
kitchen equipment
Tools of the trade Whether it’s a wood-fired oven or a flat-top grill, every chef has a piece of kitchen equipment they can’t live without. We asked five culinary experts to share their most-loved piece of kit and how it’s used in their restaurants. By Brittney Levinson. 1. LINO SAURO EXECUTIVE CHEF, OLIO WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT? Thermo circulator.
WHY? In this day and age, we face a severe manpower problem in the industry — the thermo circulator helps chefs manage time, costs and wastage. It allows us to obtain a better final cooking result, helping create perfect and even texture, taste and appearance.
HOW IS IT USED IN YOUR KITCHEN? We use it mainly to regenerate food that has already been cooked for long periods of time and kept cold. We also use it for cooking vegetables and fish for short periods of time.
INTERESTING FEATURES? Besides the fact you can control and keep the temperature consistent — within 0.5–1 degrees Celsius — the new models also allow you to control it wirelessly via remote.
2. JACQUI CHALLINOR HEAD CHEF, NOMAD WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT? Our wood-fired oven.
WHY? It adds a depth of flavour to our dishes you simply can’t get in a gas or electric oven — it gives a product character. I also love the way its challenges chefs to learn to cook under pressure with an inconsistent piece of equipment.
whole rainbow trout is roasted in the oven, as is the pork and spatchcock.
ANY INTERESTING FEATURES? There are no bells and whistles with the oven, which is probably what I love about it. It suits my style of cooking; it’s just fire and great produce working together.
3. LUKE MANGAN DIRECTOR, LUKE MANGAN & COMPANY WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT? We’ve recently installed a brand new 200sqm kitchen at Glass Brasserie, so I am loving our new gas lava stone grill, Argentina.
Jacqui Challinor
WHY? The grill gives off an even heat. We have quite a large grill menu at Glass, so it’s important we are consistent with the way we cook our meats and grilled dishes.
HOW IS IT USED IN YOUR KITCHEN? We’re cooking all our steaks on it at the moment as well as vegetables. We use it for all the dishes from the grill menu including our rib-eye, scotch and sirloin cuts, grilled fish dishes and our chargrilled Moreton Bay bugs.
ANY INTERESTING FEATURES? The lava stones give a nice even heat and the V-shaped grill runners allow the fat to run off the grill, rather than dropping down and causing flare-ups, which is critical for us.
4. IAN OAKES HEAD CHEF/OWNER DRAKE EATERY
HOW IS IT USED IN YOUR KITCHEN?
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT?
The oven is lit first thing in the morning and is used throughout the day for prep and service. We roast crimson grapes for our haloumi dish, our focaccia gets baked in there and the
Flat-top grill.
20 Hospitality April 2018
Lino Sauro
WHY? It’s such a versatile piece of equipment. The
Luke Mangan
Small in size -
Big in stature
In the modern catering and food service sector, there is a capital element to be taken into account: space organisation. Space has been getting smaller and smaller in order to reduce operational costs. To address this requires a new way of thinking about a product: multi-function, efficient & space saving.
In one word: Kompatto
kitchen equipment
Ian Oakes
way the heat is distributed means it’s hottest in the centre then cools down as it spreads out towards the edges of the plate. It’s definitely the most useful piece of equipment I have in the kitchen.
HOW IS IT USED IN YOUR KITCHEN? I use it to sear protein directly at a very hot heat. I also have a Le Creuset cast-iron grill I put on top of it to cook proteins and vegetables. I’ll often have pots of water or stock simmering at the back of the flat top while I cook other things at the front. I had wire racks installed above so I can rest pots up there and keep things warm.
60 YEARS EXPERIENCE
ANY INTERESTING FEATURES? It’s just a big, ugly flat plate that looks very uninteresting, but in reality it is capable of doing so many different things. Looks can be deceiving!
5. ANGIE FORD HEAD CHEF EASTSIDE KITCHEN + BAR WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF KITCHEN EQUIPMENT? My current favourite is our hibachi Japanese barbeque.
WHY? It is amazing to cook on — it doesn’t flare up, it’s almost smokeless and creates a distinct, smoky flavour.
HOW IS IT USED IN YOUR KITCHEN? It is used for all our grilled dishes such as baby octopus, steak, pork loin, salmon and grilled peaches.
ANY INTERESTING FEATURES? I’d say the charcoal we use is the interesting aspect as it really creates a unique flavour. We use Binchotan charcoal imported from Japan. A lot of customers have mentioned how different the flavour is. n Angie Ford
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22 Hospitality April 2018
pâtisserie
Pastries with a twist
From native Australian ingredients to Asian flavours including durian and miso, pastry chefs are putting their own spin on traditional pastries to stand out from the crowd. By Brittney Levinson.
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raditional pastries have a new shine thanks to a wave of local and international ingredients making their way into the kitchen. Staple items such as croissants and tarts are being infused with everything from durian and wattleseed to squid ink and charcoal. Sydney pastry chef Yu-ching Lee is known for her Insta-worthy pastries, but what makes them most interesting is the different ingredients she works with. Now at Paper Bird in Potts Point, Lee previously supplied Haymarket’s Boon Café with her pastries, where she was exposed to a plethora of unusual ingredients. “Sometimes Palisa [Anderson, co-owner of Boon Café] would just come in with of box of rosella buds or finger limes and say, ‘Can you do something with this?’” says Lee. “There were heaps of things I’ve never really been exposed to, partly because other places wouldn’t bother to
seek them out and they’re usually quite expensive to use otherwise.” Lee says this could be challenging at times, especially when presented with ingredients such as durian. “I’m not a huge fan of it, but a lot of customers at Boon love that stuff,” she says. “Anytime I made something with durian in it, it always sold out; so I felt compelled to use it. I made simple things like durian cheesecake or cream puffs with durian.” In her current role at Paper Bird, Lee is catering to a different clientele. “I’ve held back a little bit and gone more neutral with most of the ingredients that I’ve been using,” she says. “But I still use some ingredients I really like, including black sesame, matcha and yuzu.” Aside from an array of Asian ingredients, Lee is also exploring native Australian ingredients. She recently created a finger lime finger bun for the Mambo and Pinbone April 2018 Hospitality 23
pâtisserie
pop-up tuckshop in Bondi and is now working with wattleseed. “Wattleseed is interesting because I haven’t really used many native ingredients before,” she says. “I’m using it at the moment in lamingtons. It has a nutty flavour, though some people say it’s got a slight coffee flavour. It pairs really well with the coconut and chocolate on the outside of the lamington.” Today’s customers are more open to trying new flavours when it comes to pastry, according to James Sideris, co-owner and baker at Rollers Bakehouse in Manly. “There’s always a place for traditional, of course, but people are so much more open to trying new things that are non-conventional,” he says. Rollers is set to open mid-April and will serve up a selection of house-made pastries, both sweet and savoury, that push the boundaries of tradition. “We’ve drawn a lot of inspiration from the US where people pair good coffee with good pastries,” says Sideris. “The menu is based around pastries and laminated dough, such as danishes and croissants, but we’re hitting on savoury notes such as making croissants with meat, cheese or vegetables.” Vegemite, béchamel and aged cheddar twice-baked croissants (an ode to the classic Baker’s Delight Vegemite scroll), croissants topped with nori and black- and pink-coloured croissants are some of the creations coming out of the test kitchen. “For the black croissants, I’ve used different natural ingredients such as squid ink or activated charcoal,” says Sideris. “These ingredients don’t have a lot of flavour, but they alter the colour a bit and give it a cool effect.” While unusual ingredients might pique 24 Hospitality April 2018
“Australian pastry chefs tend to be classically trained with a French/ European background, but being close to Asia, we have that influence and it’s a gateway for exploring new flavours.” – Tiffany Jones
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patisserie
the curiosity of your customers, flavour is key to ensuring consumers keep coming back. Sideris says finding a medium between different and delicious is what he aims to achieve at Rollers. “You don’t want to overdo things too much; you still want things to look classic and appealing,” he says. “We’re not here to be another Instagram bakery, where people go for a one-off try and that’s it. We’re trying to create a place people come back to after they’ve had a croissant. If you can perfect the non-traditional and left of centre, that’s probably where the success lies.” Tiffany Jones, pastry chef at Lotus Group (Lotus Barangaroo, Lotus The Galeries, Madame Shanghai), says she’s always been known for doing things a little “left of field”. Since joining the group two years ago, Jones has witnessed a rise in Asian ingredients in pastry. “Australian pastry chefs tend to be classically trained with a French/European background, but being close to Asia, we have that influence and it’s a gateway for exploring new flavours.” Among her favourite Asian ingredients is matcha, a green tea powder from Japan, which has grown in popularity in recent years. “When I travelled to Japan about 10 years ago, there was a lot of matcha around, and it’s now filtered through to Australia,” she says. “It’s an acquired taste, so I try and find that balance when I’m using matcha and I use it quite subtly so it appeals to a broad range of palettes.” One unlikely flavour that features in Jones’ pastries is miso, using it in cheesecakes and Chinese custard tarts. “People are always looking for something a bit different in the pastry sense; it’s not always about having something that’s sickly sweet and overpowering,” she says. Jones uses miso to help achieve a balance between sweet, savoury and salty in her pastries. “It is a bit tricky because miso can be overpowering, so it took a few tests to get exactly the right level,” she says. “We use white miso, which is a bit more subtle, to offset the creaminess and sweetness of the cheesecake. Even something as simple as a miso Chantilly — you put it on the Chinese custard tart and people think it’s whipped cream. But there’s something about it, just a little bit of savoury, that balances out the sweetness. It’s about rounding the flavours out and bringing that element of surprise.” Whether it’s a colourful croissant or a surprising flavour combination, it pays to add something unique to your pastry offering. Introducing your customers to something new can make for a memorable dining experience that will keep them coming back for more. n 26 Hospitality April 2018
“Anytime I made something with durian in it, it always sold out ... I made simple things like durian cheesecake or cream puffs with durian.” – Yu-ching Lee
solo diners
28 Hospitality  April 2018
Momofuku Seiobo
solo diners
Table for ONE
Japanese ramen chain Ichiran has created a global business out of solo diners, yet many venues grunt and groan when they get a booking for one. Paul Carmichael from Momofuku Seiobo and Cutler & Co’s Samy Mir-Beghin discuss the growing market and how restaurants can cater to single diners. By Annabelle Cloros.
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regular at Cutler & Co recalled a story to restaurant manager Samy Mir-Beghin after he attempted to book a table for one at an esteemed Melbourne establishment. “Whoever picked up the phone forgot to put him on hold, and he heard them saying, ‘Solo diners don’t make us any money’,” says Mir-Beghin. Safe to say the diner hung up and returned to Cutler & Co, where he has become the venue’s most prolific diner. More and more Australians are shedding the ‘loner’ stigma and dining out solo according to research from Dimmi. The company found there has been a 27 per cent increase across Australia in unaccompanied eaters in the past year, with 40 per cent of bookings in New South Wales and 32 per cent in Victoria made by single diners.
BIRDS OF A FEATHER Momofuku Seiobo has been hailed as one of Australia’s best restaurants for solo diners, and it’s easy to see why. Like many chefs, Paul Carmichael is an avid solo diner himself and understands what single diners are looking for when they go out to eat. “When I have a solo diner in, I tend to give a little bit more attention because I know what it’s like to be alone,” he says. “Eating out is communal and family oriented, so when someone comes in by themselves, I like to show a little extra love.” Chef Andrew McConnell kept solo diners front of mind during Cutler & Co’s recent refurbishment. “We have a couple of tables in the dining room that Andrew specifically wanted for solo diners,” says Mir-Beghin. “There’s a table against the window where you can see the kitchen and he likes to serve food to the guest when he’s here. There’s a booth close to the kitchen which we usually offer to single diners as well.” Although most diners come armed with a smartphone, Cutler & Co also provides solo diners with reading material if they want a distraction. “We offer books or a newspaper, but most people are all about their iPhone or iPad,” says Mir-Beghin.
RAISING THE BAR Location is key when it comes to seating solo diners, with many preferring to sit at the bar
rather than a table in between couples and groups. Both Cutler & Co and Momofuku opt to seat solo diners at the bar to ensure they’re close to chefs and the service team to encourage conversation. “People can come in without a booking and sit at the front bar, which is much more dynamic,” says Mir-Beghin. “They’re facing the kitchen and don’t feel like everyone is looking at them in the dining room.” Cutler & Co’s bar option is ideal for customers who may not want to do the tasting menu but still enjoy a few dishes. “You can just have a main course or a bit of cheese, which is suitable for people who are in the area and want to try us out,” says Mir-Beghin. Momofuku has two bars in the restaurant, one offering a bar menu and the other, the degustation. But there are a handful of prime positions at the main bar for solo diners. “We never seat a solo at a table unless they request it,” says Carmichael. “Generally, they sit at the main bar where there’s a lot going on. There are two particular spots where chefs are always standing, so we tend to put solo diners there so there is room for interaction with a chef. People ask questions all the time and that’s part of an open kitchen. There’s less than a metre between you and the diner and it’s designed to be like that. You can talk to the guest and they can talk to you.” Bar seats also allow chefs and the service team to keep an eye on a diner and in turn tailor the dining experience to the customer’s mood. “We tend to cook at their pace, so if they eat quickly, we cook quickly, and if they want to chill on their iPad, we will cook slower,” says Carmichael.
“There are two particular spots where chefs are always standing, so we tend to put solo diners there so there is room for interaction with a chef.” – Paul Carmichael Oysters from Cutler & Co
READING BETWEEN THE LINES There are two types of solo diners — those who are keen to participate and others who just want to keep to themselves, and it’s up to the service team to gauge which category they fall under. While most solo diners will come just for the food, good service also plays a critical role that shouldn’t be overestimated. Many solo diners will visit a venue numerous times if a restaurant is able to provide a comfortable experience when it comes to dining alone. “I had a chat with a gentleman, and for April 2018 Hospitality 29
solo diners
Marron, young coconut and koji butter from Cutler & Co
Cutler & Co’s scallop with Davidson plum and sawtooth coriander
him, it’s 40 per cent food and 60 per cent service,” says Mir-Beghin. “We recently had three solo diners in a row come in. Some customers want interaction and others don’t want to be bothered. If it’s a businessman who just wants to read a book, we let them cruise through the night or if someone wants to know everything about food and wine, we are more than happy to talk — we adjust accordingly,” says Mir-Beghin. Dining solo doesn’t have to be lonely, and Carmichael has noticed plenty of solo diners bond over a shared experience. “It depends on the night, but you find some people interact with each other even if they’re not in the same group,” he says. “There are some nights where two solos will become fast friends sitting next to each other. If a person is super into being here and wants to experience the entire restaurant, then we dive in and explain as much as they want to know.” On the flip side, Carmichael also makes the point that some people want great service, but don’t necessarily need attention. Catering to a solo diner could be as simple as offering a recommendation, maintaining a positive attitude during service or even offering a glass of wine on the house. Cutler & Co’s front bar
Busted roti with onion dip and muntries at Momofuku Seiobo
“I had a chat with a gentleman, and for him, it’s 40 per cent food and 60 per cent service. We recently had three solo diners in a row come in.” – Samy Mir-Beghin 30 Hospitality April 2018
TAILORED MENUS Splitting courses is not the norm at every venue, but having the option entices solo diners to try a range of dishes rather than sticking to one. Cutler & Co offers half courses for all dishes on the menu and can also create a bespoke experience. “You can order split courses or a half portion for any dish,” says Mir-Beghin. “If they want the 1.5kg rib-eye they can have it to themselves. One time we had a Brazilian gentleman eat the whole rib-eye, which was impressive. I wanted to give him a dessert, but he didn’t want any.” Carmichael has noticed repeat solo diners come in every three to four months, and uses the opportunity to change up the menu and create a different experience from the last. “A big goal of mine for repeat customers is to change up the menu for them,” he says. “So if we know you’re coming, we will try to change it up. Generally we will go ahead and do it — unless they ask about a particular dish which we will make if it’s on the menu.” The case for solo diners is a strong one. There’s a clear trend rising of people who are no longer afraid to dine alone, which is a plus for all venues. As Carmichael says, “If you look at it in a different light, everyone is eating solo”. n
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T
Celebrity chefs unite at Beef Australia 2018
he PwC Celebrity Chef Restaurant at Beef Australia 2018 will reach new heights this year, with an impressive line-up of Australian and international talent set to take over the kitchen. The celebrity chefs will team up for a series of lunches and dinners on 7–11 May to showcase the star attraction: Australian beef.
Meet the chefs
Curtis Stone: A chef, restaurateur and author, Stone has become a household name in Australia and overseas. Following 12 years of culinary training in Australia and Europe, eight working under Marco Pierre White, Stone opened his first solo restaurant, Maude, in Beverley Hills in 2014. Adrian Richardson: Richardson is co-host of the TV show Good Chef Bad Chef and has hosted two series of his own show Secret Meat Business. He inherited his passion for cooking from his Grandfather and has a simple philosophy with his food — using the freshest ingredients and keeping it simple. Iron Chef Sakai: Hiroyuki Sakai is a Japanese chef who specialises in French cuisine. Sakai is most famous for being the second and last Iron Chef on the popular television show, first appearing in 1994 and again over nine seasons. Tarek Ibrahim: With over 30 years’ experience in the US and the Middle East, Ibrahim has a wealth of knowledge and experience in all aspects of food. He is currently corporate master chef at Meat & Livestock Australia. Matt Golinski: With a passion for using fresh, seasonal and local ingredients, Golinski has worked as executive chef at some of Queensland’s leading restaurants and runs his own catering company. He
recently joined Peppers Noosa as food ambassador and advisory executive chef. Shane Bailey: Executive chef at Noosa Boathouse, Bailey believes a good menu should change with the seasons and reflect the place in which it was created. Sam Burke: With 23 years’ experience, Burke took over the executive chef reins at Meat & Livestock Australia in 2014 and has since travelled across the globe promoting premium Australian beef to the wider community. Ben O’Donoghue: Becoming a household name co-hosting Surfing The Menu with fellow chef Curtis Stone, O’Donoghue has gone on to host several other TV shows and has released a number of cookbooks. He believes food should be simple and distinctive. Chef Afit: Afit is the founder of Holycow! Steakhouse, which has 21 outlets across seven cities in Indonesia. He attributes his restaurant success to good-quality Australian beef. Jess Pryles: Cook, author and TV host, Pryles’ expertise lies in all things red meat. She creates original recipes with a southern and Tex-Mex twist and is also a respected authority on smoked meats, particularly Texasstyle barbecue. Dominique Rizzo: Rizzo’s life and work centres around her philosophy; “through the sharing of food we share life and one is never lonely or hungry”. Her restaurant and cooking school, Putia Pure Food Kitchen, focuses on Mediterranean cuisine using seasonal, local produce. Jack Stein: Son of celebrity chef Rick Stein, Jack’s time as an apprentice chef saw him work at Tetsuya’s in Sydney and Michelin-starred La Régalade in France. Jack is now chef director across the Stein restaurant portfolio and has starred in his own TV series Born to Cook: Jack Stein Down Under. Tickets for Beef Australia are available at beefaustralia.com.au. n April 2018 Hospitality 31
shelf space
Drink to that
Following a successful run on tap in hotels across Australia, Coopers Session Ale has now been released in cans and bottles. Session Ale is a refreshing summer-style beer with tropical fruit notes and an aromatic hop character. It’s brewed using Galaxy and Melba hop varieties to produce an easy-drinking beer with an alcohol level of 4.2 per cent. coopers.com.au
On the house
Japanese whisky brand House of Suntory has introduced single-grain whisky Chita to the Australian market. The whisky originates from the Chita peninsula in Japan’s Aichi Prefecture and features a light taste and sweet fragrance of honey and crème brûlée. Its delicate and floral flavour profile makes it an ideal entry-level drink for introducing new consumers to luxury Japanese whisky. whisky.suntory.com
32 Hospitality April 2018
Fired up
Introducing the Ardmona Fire Roasted Tomatoes range, barbequed over an open flame and available in two variants to add extra flavour and elevate recipes. Fire Roasted Classic Diced Tomatoes feature a smoky and sweet chargrilled flavour and can be substituted for standard diced tomatoes in pasta sauces, pizzas, tacos, soups and bruschetta. Fire Roasted Jalapeño Salsa combines diced tomatoes, jalapeños, Anaheim peppers, garlic and onion to create a sweet and spicy salsa that can be used as a dip or condiment or to add flavour to baked eggs, omelettes and slow-cooked meals. spc.com.au
Cup above the rest
Uppercup is the latest company to combat Australia’s increasing landfill epidemic, offering a reusable alternative to disposable coffee cups. Designed and manufactured in Melbourne, Uppercup is made from high-quality Eastman Tritan copolyester plastic that is BPA- and BPS-free. Available in two sizes, Uppercup’s glass-like frame is resistant to stains and odours and is dishwasher safe. 321water.com
For the diary Upcoming events in the hospitality industry. Find out more at hospitalitymagazine.com.au Beef Australia 6-12 May Australia’s national beef exhibition is held just once every three years in Rockhampton, Queensland. Beef Australia 2018 will celebrate the Australian beef industry and facilitate new trade and export opportunities by exposing the local supply chain to international industry leaders. It will feature more than 4500 cattle from over 30 breeds, a trade fair promoting more than 500 businesses, a symposium and seminars along with restaurants, celebrity chefs and cooking demonstrations for visitors. beefaustralia.com.au
Noosa Food & Wine Festival 17-20 May The Sunshine Coast will host more than 35 events and welcome a host of celebrity chefs
for 2018’s Noosa Food & Wine Festival. Events will take place at the new Festival Village, under the tepees on Noosa Main Beach, along Hastings Street, in signature restaurants and throughout the Noosa hinterland with produce and brewery trails. The 2018 chef line-up includes Miguel Maestre, Colin Fassnidge, Lauren Eldridge, Alessandro Pavoni, Christine Manfield, Kirsten Tibballs, Paul Carmichael, Analiese Gregory and many more. noosafoodandwine.com.au
Foodservice Australia 27-29 May Foodservice will return to Sydney at the International Convention Centre in Darling Harbour. More than 300 industry suppliers will attend the event, which will display the latest food trends, showcase hundreds of
new products and host free seminars and workshops. Foodservice Australia offers the opportunity to connect with food industry professionals and improve your bottom line. foodserviceaustralia.com.au
Drinks Industry Show 18-19 June The Drinks Industry Show has been redeveloped for 2018 and will be held at Dockside in the heart of Sydney’s Darling Harbour. The show is Australia’s leading trade-only annual gathering, promoting new and high-quality alcohol brands to attendees. The event will include workshops, seminars and taste-testing opportunities. There will also be networking events, offering a chance for attendees to connect with peers. drinksindustryshow.com.au
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April 2018 Hospitality 33
5 minutes with ...
Sophie Otton
She Loves You sommelier and owner
Image credit: Katia Monte
Sophie Otton has curated wine lists for Rockpool Dining Group and Billy Kwong, but now the Sydney-based sommelier has taken the leap and opened her own wine bar in Newtown dubbed She Loves You.
34 Hospitality April 2018
I
began my career in the wine industry when I was at university. I wasn’t particularly passionate about what I was studying at the time and I got my first wine job at Universal Wine Bar. This was back in its heyday, when it was owned by Michael Hill Smith, Australia’s first Master of Wine. Suddenly, everything just felt right. I knew very quickly this was where I was meant to be and what I wanted to be good at. I wanted to open my own venue a long time ago, but it took a while to work out where I wanted to be. I think everyone who is devoted to hospitality imagines having a place of their own at some stage. Working hard in the industry makes you think about working for yourself. I had been thinking about it for quite some time before I got around to doing it. It’s probably well overdue. Renaming and relaunching the bar since we bought it has been quite a challenge. When we took over [Doris and Beryl’s Bridge Club & Tea House] it was already operating and we decided to continue running it while we got to know the customers, the location and the vibe. But at the end of last year, Kylie Kwong invited She Loves You to be part of the Carriageworks Night Markets, so we had
to rebrand suddenly, before we were really ready. It’s amazing how fast you can work when the pressure is on. Customers can expect a soothing environment and a place where they can relax and unwind. We bought it because it was a cosy little space that’s very intimate and we plan to run with that. We are in the process of creating what we hope is an interesting wine list. The wines will be mostly Australian, of course, with a few exotics to extend the boundaries. I’ve been putting together a fun, approachable list that’s good value and nothing too alienating. There are also some fun cocktails and a good range of beer. But it’s a work in progress, and will continue to evolve for quite some time. The wine list is very small compared to previous lists I’ve done here in Sydney. Rockpool Bar & Grill had the best restaurant cellar in the Southern Hemisphere when I was there, so nothing compares to that. But the wines we’ve been pouring at Billy Kwong have influenced me considerably. The She Loves You list is mostly composed of fairly hands-on winemaking and includes minimal-interventionist wines, small producers and the like. That said, it’s not too esoteric — just fun things to explore and enjoy. n
COMING TO MELBOURNE! RESTAURANT
LEADERS SUMMIT 2018
MONDAY 30 JULY 2018 PARK HYATT HOTEL, MELBOURNE Tickets are available from May at
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