NO.756 AUGUST 2019
DAVE PYNT ON BURNT ENDS • WORLD’S 50 BEST • DIVERSITY IN FOOD WRITING
Serve them live sport and they will come
With over 50 live sports across dedicated channels, Foxtel gives your customers the live action they love – all year round. Over 1,000 matches, 47 finals, 20 tests, 55 races and 3,000 laps in 2019. Call 1300 361 507 foxtelbusiness.com.au to find out more The minimum term of an eligible Foxtel Business Venues subscription is date of sign-up to 29 February 2020. Availability of pay-per-view events subject to change. The F1 FORMULA 1 logo and related marks are trademarks of Formula One Licensing BV, a Formula One group company. All rights reserved. BUS0298
CONTENTS // August
Contents AUGUST 2019
16
Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The research is in: solo dining is on the rise. 8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.
22
16 // BUSINESS PROFILE Why Burnt Ends is better than ever. 20 // DRINKS Food and drink are a natural pair, but are bartenders and chefs? 40 // BEHIND THE SCENES The Taphouse’s brisket.
10 // PRODUCE The story behind misticanza.
41 // EQUIPMENT Egg rings aren’t just for eggs …
12 // BEST PRACTICE Use technology to up your staff management skills.
42 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Lucas Restaurants’ Nabila Kadri.
14 // COLUMN Melissa Leong on diversity in food writing.
32
Features 22 // WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS A recap of 50 Best Talks, the ceremony and events. 28 // PORK Local producers are leading the way in quality, sustainability and animal welfare. 32 // REGIONAL PAIRINGS An exploration of the old adage ‘what grows together goes together’. 38 // BRUNCH IN SINGAPORE A new lifestyle brunch combines French and local cuisines.
August 2019 | 3
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social @annabellecloros
Hospitality on tour
Hawker goodness Chicken rice from Ah Tai at Maxwell hawker centre.
AS I WRITE this editor’s note, I’m in Hong
Mirazur was named as no.1, the festivities
Kong having dinner at Belon — solo. While
also included the 50 Best Talks on the topic
I’m seated in between two couples, I
of kitchen karma — read about the whole
don’t feel awkward or alone even though
shebang on p22.
I’m — shock horror — sans wifi. I’m secretly
And when in Singapore, paying a visit to
smug because I know I’m having a different
Aussie chef Dave Pynt (the guy behind the
experience; one that’s arguably better than
top ranking ‘Australian’ restaurant in the
the people next to me.
world) at Burnt Ends is a must. We talk about
Until recently, solo dining wasn’t
Lunch of champions
everything from the nuances of running a
something I did beyond grabbing a quick
restaurant in Singapore to the role Michelin
bite in a food court. I never thought I’d be
stars play in the dining experience on p16.
that person sitting at a table having the
Back on home soil, journalist Madeline
chef’s menu alone — but I am, and it’s not
Woolway has penned features on chefs
just me. Research has shown the category
collaborating with bartenders to create
of solo diners is on the rise, so what are
cocktails with a difference and the
you doing to cater to them? We explore the
importance of knowing where your pork
trend on p6.
comes from.
I also did quite a bit of solo dining during my time in Singapore covering The World’s 50
I hope you enjoy this ‘international’ edition of Hospitality.
Best Restaurants, from char siu, chicken rice and boiled peanut soup in hawker centres to
Until next time,
checking out the newly opened Cloudstreet.
Annabelle Cloros
While I’m sure many of you are well aware
The Burnt Ends sanger is crammed full of smoked beef and slaw.
Starting the day right Café Gray Deluxe in Hong Kong’s The Upperhouse takes avocado toast to a new level.
Follow us
Editor
@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag
SUBSCRIPTION RATES Australia: 1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST) 2 years (20 issues) = $158.40 (inc GST) – Save 20% 3 years (30 issues) = $207.90 (inc GST) – Save 30% SUBSCRIPTION RATES New Zealand: 1 year (10 issues) = $109.00 Asia/Pacific 1 year (10 issues) = $119.00 Rest of World: 1 year (10 issues) = $129.00
41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419
Average Net Distribution Period ending 31 March 2018 – 11,337
DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2019 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd
4 | Hospitality
IN FOCUS // Solo dining
Table for one New research has revealed a growing number of diners are going it alone. WORDS Annabelle Cloros SOLO DINING WAS once the
with a 70 per cent contribution
association for male solo dining
the least popular mealtime, with
domain of business travellers
to growth (CTG). New South
(61 per cent) due to the workforce
21 per cent of Australians eating
and those on the go, but a new
Wales and Victoria comprise
make up,” says Gimantha
alone in the evening. “Years
report has revealed Australians
the largest solo dining markets
Jayasinghe, deputy managing
ago, eating alone was pretty
are fast shedding the stigma of
at 35 per cent and 31 per cent
director, APAC, at The NPD
uncommon,” says Jayasinghe. “If
eating alone.
respectively. In addition, they are
Group. “36 per cent of solo diners
you were a solo diner, you were
the top two growth states, sitting
are white collar, with 57 per cent
looked at strangely or people
released by research company
A CREST trends report
at 42 per cent CTG each over a
between the ages of 25 to 49.”
assumed you were a food critic.”
The NPD Group found solo
three-year period.
dining now accounts for 40 per
The research also revealed
A staggering 77 per cent of
The statistics indicate
solo dining experiences occur
the market is changing, and
cent of traffic share within the
some interesting facts about
on weekdays, with breakfast the
operators should consider how
foodservice sector.
the demographic of solo
most popular meal (60 per cent)
they can cater to solo diners
diners. “Middle-aged working
for Australians to eat alone. A
from seating arrangements and
currently account for 41 per
consumers are the core solo
‘morning snack’ came in second
providing reading materials to
cent traffic share of the sector
diners in Australia, with a stronger
place at 50 per cent. Dinner was
offering half portions. ■
On-premises operations
6 | Hospitality
CHRIS’ NEW 1KG BUCKETS MAKE TACO’S A MENU HIT.
NEW SIZE, SAM RECIPE E
Vegetarian tacos with AVOCADO DIP!
Pulled chicken tacos with GUACAMOLE DIP!
Soft shell tacos with TZATZIKI DIP!
Whether you’re a large or small operator, Chris’ understands the need to serve the freshest products every day. All Chris’ traditional flavours now come in 1kg buckets, making menu creation easy. Visit eatloveshare.com.au for more recipe ideas.
NEWS // Entrée
Babylon opens in Sydney Westfield Sydney’s rooftop is now home to Babylon, a Levantine-inspired restaurant and bar. The venue has a total capacity of 800 and comprises a garden terrace, bar, restaurant and private dining rooms. Head chef Arman Uz has designed a food offering influenced by Israel, Lebanon, Cyprus, Turkey and Egypt. The menu has been divided into flora, fauna and ocean with dishes including 12-hour braised lamb neck with dumplings, yoghurt, chilli butter and mint along with sayadieh, a rice dish with snapper, baharat spice, pistachio and tarator. Bar manager David Nutting has drawn up the cocktail list with the venue also offering a 250-plus whisky list and more than 300 wines selected by sommelier Simon Howland. babylonrooftop.com.au
Entrée
Scott Pickett’s new cookbook Marriage of Flavours Scott Pickett
The latest openings, books, events and more.
$39.99; Lantern Melbourne chef and restaurateur Scott
EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Pickett has penned a guide to seasonal cooking in his latest book. Marriage of Flavours is split into four sections (spring,
Lotus returns
autumn, winter, summer) and revolves around eight flavour profiles. Each recipe is
Dan Hong will go back to his roots with the launch
accompanied by market tips, wine matches,
of Lotus 2.0, which is set to pop up in spring. The
ingredient substitutions and pointers from
Asian-Mediterranean concept will open in the
the chef himself. Highlights include gnocchi
former site of The Fish Shop in Potts Point, which
with gorgonzola and silverbeet along with
has closed after seven years in business. Diners
apple tarte tatin with star anise ice cream.
can expect to see the return of cult classics
Can it!
including the cheeseburger and hot fudge sundae. “Lotus was the beginning of my journey with Merivale and my first position as a head chef,”
Canned cocktail company Curatif has debuted two
says Hong. “They were some of the best years of
ready-to-drink cocktails in collaboration with
my career and it means so much to go back and
Australia’s leading distillers. The negroni features Four
cook where it all began.” merivale.com
Pillars Spiced Negroni Gin with added pepperberry and
Photography by Nikki To
cinnamon to ensure a balanced drink. Seven Seeds espresso and Archie Rose Original Vodka combine to create the ideal espresso martini that boasts sweet tones and plenty of toffee goodness. Available in four packs and by the case from Dan Murphy’s and liquor stores. curatif.com
Sydney farewells Paper Bird Paper Bird has joined a growing number of Sydney restaurants calling it a day. While the venue will officially close on 3 August, Paper Bird will open for lunch on Fridays and Saturdays along with dinner from Monday to Saturday. Chefs and co-owners Ben Sears and Eun Hee An will bring back the shrimp-brined fried chicken with soy and maple syrup and churn out shallot pancakes and katsu sandos in Paper Bird’s final days. paperbirdrestaurant.com Photography by Alana Dimou 8 | Hospitality
HANDCR AFTED TO AN
authentic
ITALIAN RECIPE
JUST THAW, CREATE & BAKE! Unique Each pizza is handcrafted. Authentic Made to a traditional and authentic Italian recipe. Convenient A range of sizes, from 2”-14.5” round to a large rectangle slab. Versatile Perfect with any topping. Quick & easy Pre-baked, just thaw, top & bake. Consistent Premium quality ingredients for perfect results every time. Cost effective Reduces preparation time & labour costs. Australian owned & made and very proud of it!
CONTACT US TODAY Letizza Bakery A 5 Tait Street, Smithfield NSW 2164 T 1800 107 520 E sales@letizza.com.au
WWW.LETIZZA.COM.AU
Some varieties
PRODUCE // Misticanza
come in solid colours. Other varieties
Can also be
are green with
buttery, almost
Described as
purple flecks.
coating the
sweet and bitter.
mouth.
Best grown in the cooler months.
Misticanza A delightful mix of chicory, misticanza is sweet, bitter and buttery rolled into one. WORDS Falani and Olivier Sofo ILLUSTRATION Elena Fombertaux Origins
at their best in growth habit and flavour. To
refrigerator. When grown in Europe during
Essentially, misticanza is the Italian name for
harvest, we cut each head of greens, discard
winter, the heads are often left in the ground
mixed salad greens. Traditionally, it refers to
the outer leaves and separate the hearts.
and can still be dug up with hearts extracted
a mix of wild herbs and greens, with many
— even if blanketed in snow. If heads are left
coming from the chicory family. The name
Flavour profile and appearance
whole, they store very well. Once opened and
misticanza is from the Roman dialect, but it
When grown in the cooler months, the flavour
turned into misticanza, they store well for one
has incarnations in every region, like most
can be described as sweet, bitter and
week if kept cold and airtight.
Italian things.
buttery. Some varieties are crisp and juicy while others are robust and bitter, subtle and
Culinary applications
we like to use greens from the chicory family.
sweet or so buttery it feels like they leave a
Misticanza is eaten after the main meal
For us, this includes Variegata di Castelfranco,
coating of butter in the mouth.
because of its bitter complexity. It acts as a
In our interpretation at Living Earth Farm,
Variegata di Luisa, Variegata di Chioggia,
They vary in size and shape and encompass
digestive and prepares the palate for dessert.
Cornetto di Bordeaux, Bianco Milano, Pala
everything from small, round heads and cos
When paired with a simple dressing, it is
Rossa, Cicoria Rossa and Cicoria Puntarelle a
lettuce-shaped loaves to loose, open hearts.
unquestionably life-changing. Misticanza
Foglia Stretta.
They are colourful, textured and absolutely
should always be eaten raw and never
stunning. Some of the varieties have amazing
cooked. In our grandparents’ days, misticanza
Seasonality and harvest
variegation and others are just solid colours.
provided valuable nutrition to people’s diets.
Chicory can be in season all year round if you
Their colour is always brilliant and luminescent.
Having once consisted of dozens of varieties
grow the right varieties and live in a not-too-
of wild herbs and flowers, many of the
hot climate. We grow them from autumn to
Storage
varieties we eat today descend from these
winter as we believe that is when they are
Chicory can last a while if stored well in the
ancestral plants.■
10 | Hospitality
3x MORE PROFIT THAN COFFEE **
l(uv1n COLD PRESS JUICING
CS600 Juice Chef
The world's f irst commercial vertical Cold Press fruit and vegetable Juicer The CS600 Chef Kuvings Cold Press Juicer features a larger than industry sized 88mm flip gate, offering a wide feeding chute to input your fruits and vegetables. Sleek design, with an extra top set for a quick change between recipes.
• High Yield for all fruit and vegetables • Juices hard vegetables, greens and wheatgrass with ease • Stylish, Quiet and Easy to Clean
• No Separation and taste delicious • Quick Return on Investment
=-----
-:::::
Chef CS600
Extra Top Set
Complete Pack
C�II US to book a!1
ons1te demonstration
=$2195
02 9798 0586 www.kuvings.com.au Sydney Melbourne Brisbane Adelaide Perth
*Based on average wholesale cost to produce a litre of juice. **Based on avg. $8.00 cost of a glass of fresh juice.
BEST PRACTICE // Management
Streamline your management style Invest in these tools and services to take your skills to the next level. WORDS Ken Burgin
THERE ARE MANY new tools
like foundU include applicant
hours match with sales volume.
Reviews
and services to help you
tracking, VEVO checks and
Some services such as foundU
When it’s time to review staff
manage employees across areas
communication with applicants.
offer their own payroll service,
performance, form-builder
including recruitment, induction,
and others integrate with the
services or checklist apps
rostering, workflow and legal
Induction and on-boarding
common payroll systems. Single-
can also be used to create
obligations. Foodservice and
The first days of training can make
touch payroll (weekly reporting)
standardised reports. Keep it
restaurants have taken shortcuts
a big difference to the success
is now mandatory for all
simple, but do it at least twice
in the past, but new regulations
of your hire and how quickly they
businesses with more than five
a year — text staff a copy of
and requirements mean
understand the job. Share the
staff, so automating this process
the form to look at before you
employers need to be at the top
staff rules, handbook and job
eliminates potential errors.
sit down for a meeting. Keeping
of their game. Here are some
descriptions online with a service
tools and services that can help
such as Google Sites. Training can
Managing
it’s available anytime, anywhere.
you manage your employees with
be a combination of observation,
Manage staff tasks and
Smart use of simple technology
ease and accuracy.
coaching and online resources.
responsibilities with apps such as
puts you back in control. ■
Services including Typsy provide
iAuditor, Chore Checklist or Todo
Recruitment
short video courses on safety,
Cloud. Setting a standard of tech-
A modern website and active
customer service and product
enabled productivity impresses
social media accounts can
knowledge, and you can also add
staff and gives you more control.
impress applicants who aren’t
your own videos to the platform.
Efficiency is an important part
already aware of your business.
this information online ensures
of establishing a strong culture,
Include a ‘join our team’ section
Rostering
as is regular communication.
on your website to attract a
There are many rostering
Most rostering apps include
steady stream of potential
services available from Deputy
internal messages or you can
employees. Link to a form with
and Ento to Zuus. These
create a group on WhatsApp or
services such as Google Forms
platforms provide accurate
Facebook’s Workplace. These
or Wufoo and include questions
information about wage costs,
tools allow everyone to keep up to
about availability times, visa and
especially if matched with
date with news or any workplace
contact details. Rostering services
POS data, to see how rostered
announcements.
12 | Hospitality
Wagyu doughnut 2kg full-blood Wagyu 150ml TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce 75ml Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp smoked garlic purée 1 tbsp black garlic powder 110g tomato paste 90g grated parmesan cheese 4 smoked eggs 4 tbsp TABASCO® Spicy Salt Parsley — to taste Spiced semolina flour, egg wash and breadcrumbs to crumb doughnuts
Chris Wade’s Wagyu doughnut with TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce
The hatted head chef from Steak Ministry shares the recipe for his Wagyu doughnut.
Glaze 200ml parmesan cheese béchamel 4g fresh truffle Gel 500ml TABASCO® Buffalo Style Sauce 250ml chicken stock 5g agar agar
Method 1. Mince the full-blood Wagyu.
WITH EXPERIENCE WORKING alongside
To form the perfect doughnut, Wade
2. In a bowl, mix the Wagyu
Gordon Ramsay and Curtis Stone, Steak Maestro
recommends pressing the mince into a regular
with Worcestershire sauce,
Chris Wade has built a reputation for working
ring mould. “Overnight, the Wagyu fat will set,
TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce,
with premium products. Wade is passionate
helping them to cook perfectly,” he says.
smoked garlic purée and
about showcasing quality ingredients through great cooking — whether it’s Wagyu beef or authentically crafted TABASCO® pepper sauces. Wade currently leads the kitchen team at Melbourne’s Steak Ministry and his Wagyu doughnut has been a hit with diners. The secret ingredient? TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce. The portfolio of TABASCO® pepper sauces offer a range of heat options and flavour profiles, making the iconic brand a versatile and indispensable part of the global food culture. For his recipe, Wade opts for the rich, smoky
Follow the recipe below to plate up a perfect Wagyu doughnut with TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce. TABASCO®, the Diamond and Bottle Logos are trademarks of McIlhenny Co. For more recipes, please follow facebook.com/TabascoAU
tomato paste. 3. Add the smoked eggs, grated parmesan cheese and parsley to the mixture. 4. M ix well and cook a small amount of the mixture inside glad wrap. 5. Once happy with seasoning and flavour, roll into 55g balls. 6. Form into doughnut moulds and freeze until firm. 7. C over in spiced semolina
flavour of the TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce, which
flour, egg wash and
stands up well to the full-blood Wagyu because
breadcrumbs.
the vine-ripened, red jalapeño peppers are smoked over an open pecan wood fire to create a full-bodied, moderate heat flavour. “Condiments have always been important for cooking, especially when it comes to meat,” says Wade. “But TABASCO® pepper sauces really have so many great, ready-made flavours that match
8. Fry at 170 degrees Celsius for three minutes or until cooked. 9. Season with TABASCO® Spicy Salt. 10. D ip the Wagyu doughnuts in the glaze and serve.
with the different meats I use.” August 2019 | 13
ADVERTORIAL // TABASCO® Chipotle Sauce
Ingredients
COLUMN // Diversity in food writing
Writing in colour Why Australian food writing won’t change until the players do. WORDS Melissa Leong AS A KID growing up in predominantly
by all food writers and is just an innate
that can only be a good thing, whether
in introducing friends to my Chinese-
spell it out so literally? Chef Joel Valvasori
we’re evolving,” she says.
white suburban Sydney, I delighted
Singaporean culture, especially when it
came to food. I loved being the one who
brought ‘weird’ lunches to school, in a time where sticky rice parcels and bento boxes would elicit a full playground audience. I loved seeing the sense of achievement
cross someone’s face when they tried — and liked — something new.
The joy of encouraging people to eat
outside their comfort zone is one shared 14 | Hospitality
part of the job, so we do really need to
of Perth’s Lulu La Delizia isn’t convinced.
that’s a function of media or just how
“As an eater, no amount of someone telling
Speaking of evolution, it’s fair to say there’s
mind,” he says. “As a restaurateur, a media
when it comes to the current media state of
me I should eat something will change my article might attract a couple of people,
but I don’t think it really changes people’s behaviour.”
Palisa Anderson of Chat Thai and
Boon Luck Farm is a bit more diplomatic. “People are becoming more curious, and
a general dissatisfaction across the board
play. Does it explain the amount of published pieces irately forwarded to me from chefs
and restaurateurs, or why I sometimes feel a
sense of cringe when I read a piece about the food I grew up with written by a writer who doesn’t quite seem to get it? Is it the overly
knowing tone, a lack of diversity in voices
and backgrounds or just terrible journalism that’s bothering us?
“I’m sick of white people writing about
Asian food like they know better than us,” says Melbourne chef Jerry Mai. “I find the
writer and publication less credible [when that happens].”
It isn’t to say that one shouldn’t write about food outside their cultural
experience for fear of reprisal. After all, it is a writer’s job to eat and educate
ourselves broadly and encourage others to do so, too. But the general gut feel
here is that no matter where you come
from, writing on any subject of speciality requires a decent sense of tact, research
and respect. On some level, when it’s not,
“The first, and probably most pervasive,
challenge is that writers of colo[u]r
Igni’s Aaron Turner, who are aware of the
traditional foods, while white writers are
“It’s something that has weighed heavily
are often limited to writing about their given much latitude to explore a wide
variety of cuisines beyond their immediate expertise,” says Miller. Writing from the
perspective of being an African-American
food writer in the US he acknowledges how this experience is shared among writers of
colour in general, and I can certainly attest. My first few years of writing clocked a
culture? No. I’m arguing for more balance in who gets the writing assignment.
Depending upon the angle sought, an
African-American writer may be able to tell
a story with more dimension than someone unfamiliar with the culture. At the very
least, that writer will avoid the kinds of
mistakes that get people in a lot of trouble
stop cooking with olive oil and start with butter.
cultural appreciation, what are the challenges facing people of colour in food media?
efforts won’t be for nothing.
In terms of ‘getting it’, Lee Ho Fook’s
“I used to feel more sensitive before in
and my business,” he says. “Now, I don’t really care if they label my restaurant
‘fusion’. It’s only because they can’t put
other words together to describe it better.”
necessarily have a critical bearing on the
know what they’re talking about,” says
Merivale executive chef Dan Hong, though he’s also quick to add there is a certain
amount of affront to be taken when a non-
Asian writer tells him how to eat, as though
the ethnic background of a writer shouldn’t story, so long as the writing is sound,
the research is apparent and the tone is
respectful. But as Miller notes, do we lose something by way of dimension?
There’s no doubt that what’s going on
it’s a new discovery. “When someone tells
in the world has us all feeling a little raw.
prawn’, it’s like, ‘Shut the f**k up. This is
landscape and the intertwined relationship
me, ‘You should try sucking the head of the the way we have always done it’.”
“I don’t mind who’s writing, but for me,
more,” says Vietnamese-Australian chef
job that requires a reasonably firm grasp on
conscious respect leads me to believe his
matter to me who’s writing the story if they
Like many first-generation migrant kids
Australia. When it comes to food writing; a
and its influence. Somehow, this degree of
I’m inclined to agree with the perspective
I think someone from an Asian background
and country, it’s a fascinating lens to view
chapter of his life in Nashville, Tennessee,
who’s writing the story and where they
on social media.”
with a combined perspective of culture
his second book, which explores the US
terms of how media perceived what I do
and whereabouts on the map of Italy people
come from? “To be honest, it doesn’t really
race should write food stories about their
chicken,” he says. Turner is completing
comfortable discussing cooking to cuisson
other category, but it’s fair to say I’m just as
African-American food writer Adrian Miller I arguing that only people of a certain
on me as a white guy writing on fried
Victor Liong says his feelings have changed.
But to the industry, does it really matter
for National Public Radio, he says: “Am
delicacy of taking on someone else’s story.
helluva lot more Asian restaurants than any
the ick factor is real.
In a beautifully articulated piece by
There are some chef/writers such as
would understand me and what I do
Khanh Nguyen of Melbourne’s Sunda.
And on whether media’s encouragement
to try something new has any impact; “To
be honest … social media probably drives consumer choices [for Sunda], more than what’s written in the media.”
And when contemplating the current food between media, restaurants, chefs and
producers, it’s easy to both oversimplify and complicate when it comes to our
shared feeling of dissatisfaction with the
status quo. Be that as it may, it’s time more than ever to encourage a more inclusive and balanced perspective wherever we can. We have to believe that the way forward is with skill, knowledge and
respect, no matter who you are, or what you’re having for lunch. ■
August 2019 | 15
COLUMN // Diversity in food writing
When contemplating the current food landscape and the intertwined relationship between media, restaurants, chefs and producers, it’s easy to both oversimplify and complicate when it comes to our shared feeling of dissatisfaction with the status quo.
BUSINESS PROFILE // Burnt Ends
Burning Man Chef Dave Pynt is slaying the game at his Singapore restaurant, Burnt Ends. WORDS Annabelle Cloros DAVE PYNT IS the highest-ranking
To put it simply, the past few years have
pretty-plating kind of restaurant.”
his “shitty little barbecue restaurant” in
restaurant has accumulated some serious
Ends, and Pynt tends to steer clear of the
Choice Award in 2017 and Burnt Ends
of house team take care of them like the
Australian chef in the world. Burnt Ends, Singapore, clocked in at no.59 on the
extended version of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list — a high for any chef.
When quizzed about his reaction to the
news, he responded with the following: “I
haven’t looked at the entire list to find out,
been great for Burnt Ends. The six-year-old accolades with Pynt receiving the Chefs’
earning its first Michelin star in 2018. The
restaurant also snagged the no.10 position on the Asia’s 50 Best list.
So what are the real perks of these
but that’s good to know.”
accolades beyond recognition? Lists and
the event, but he skipped the legendary
and an increase of media attention, but
Pynt’s reply says it all. The chef attended
after party to get back to his young family. He’s laser focused on running Burnt Ends, three Meatsmith locations and now The Ledge in the Maldives. But he did say
this: “It’s pretty surreal to be honest. It’s incredible that there a lot of people out there who like our restaurant.”
The chef sat down with Hospitality
to talk about the weight of stars and
rankings, the nuances of operating in
Singapore and why he just wants his staff to be better than he is. 16 | Hospitality
stars naturally lead to spikes in bookings it’s not all glitz and glory. Awards tend to
raise diner expectations, and some people
Burnt Ends is unapologetically Burnt
odd unhappy customer and let his front
professionals they are. “My tolerance level for that kind of thing is very low,” he says. “Everyone is entitled to what they see
as value for money and what we should deliver [in relation to] what we charge
and the accolades we’ve won. But in my opinion, we do what we do. Take it or leave it — you don’t have to be here.”
don’t realise Michelin stars don’t equate to
There are a number of commonalities shared
it belongs in a gallery. Pynt’s experienced
in the world. The most pressing? Staffing.
white tablecloths and food that looks like this issue at Burnt Ends. “Every now
and then, there are people who don’t
understand what we do,” he says. “Having a Michelin star, I think some customers want things a little bit more prim and
proper, and we’re not. We’re loud, we’re
noisy, we work with ash and we’re not a
by restaurants, no matter where they exist
While Pynt says he doesn’t struggle to find
workers — the team is now three times the
size as it was when Burnt Ends opened — he
knows it’s an issue for his peers. “We have an amazing team and a lot of them have been
with us for a long time, but I know it’s a big problem in our industry,” he says.
BUSINESS PROFILE // Burnt Ends
“How good do you want to be and what’s our role in pushing staff to be the best they can be...?” – Dave Pynt The solution is glaringly obvious
— make working conditions better so
more people are interested in long-term careers in hospitality. But we’re just not
there yet. Long hours and high-pressure environments are part and parcel of the current landscape.
However, many restaurants are taking
things into their own hands and evaluating their workplaces. Pynt and his team are in the process of implementing practices to
create a better environment for employees.
Smoked quail eggs with caviar
Steak frites
“Something we have spoken about recently is, ‘How do we make our staffs’ lives
better?’ We haven’t answered the question yet, and we’re not going to be able to do it overnight, but it’s something we want to do.”
There’s also another side to the coin: Do
‘relaxed’ kitchens have the same output
as those that thrive on pushing the limits? The jury is out. “There’s the flip side of
never being an elite athlete unless you train really f**king hard,” says Pynt. “How good do you want to be and what’s our role in
in hospitality can take on workers and is
business, especially with the launch of
maintaining those who see it as a regular
his team. “We work really insane hours;
at the Waldorf Astoria. “The cross-training
pushing staff to be the best they can be while job? Some people want to be the next best
chef and others want work–life balance — it’s about finding out what the individual wants.” Just as staffing is a global issue for the
industry, so too is mental health. But Pynt
points out that it isn’t limited to hospitality — every sector is impacted. “I think the
big movement has to be not what we are
going to do, but what we can do to better
understand and help people communicate when they’re not feeling great,” he says. Pynt is well aware of the toll a career
vigilant when it comes to the wellbeing of the pressure is high,” says the chef. “But if
someone has an issue in our kitchen and we see them having a bad day, we talk about it. We’ve had issues in the past and we
are proactive and aware. We take it really
f**cking seriously. We spend more time with these people than our families. If we can’t
look after them, how are we meant to take care of our own families or our guests?” With five venues under the Burnt Ends collective, consistent staff training has
become an important component of the
Pynt’s first international location, The Ledge program is going to be the backbone of
how we move forward,” says the chef. “So if you’re a new head chef, you train with us at Burnt Ends for three months, and if you’re
a sous chef, manager or assistant manager, you come here for one month.”
Pynt estimates he’s on-site at The Ledge
twice a year with his team travelling to
the Maldives six times on an annual basis. The senior team at The Ledge travel to Singapore for one week each year for
additional training. “If you add it all up, there’s a lot of touchy-feely time which
August 2019 | 17
BUSINESS PROFILE // Burnt Ends 75-day dry-aged Wagyu
“We’re loud, we’re noisy, we work with ash and Grissini taramasalata
we’re not a pretty-plating kind of restaurant.” – Dave Pynt
is important for us to identify strengths and
and Australia, it’s an adjustment. “I was talking
our culture,” says Pynt.
importing everything,” says Pynt. “In London,
weaknesses and immerse their senior team in Inter-company training also extends to
Meatsmith, which Pynt says is now running like a well-oiled machine. “We do a lot of training with those guys; sometimes we send our team down
there to help them or [vice versa],” he says. “We
have a good team in place there now and I’m very open with letting them get on with it — I don’t have the time or interest to micromanage.”
Pynt says the expansion of Meatsmith has
prompted him to improve his own communication skills, which has allowed him to grow as a The team
Burnt Ends
put 25 new
is no.59
dishes on
on The
the menu
World’s 50
last year
Best list
manager while empowering his employees.
“One of the guys who worked at Burnt Ends for
received
Burnt Ends
a Michelin
customers
star in
are regulars
2018
accept it. I can get two seasons of black truffle and asparagus and wild trout from Norway. If you don’t limit yourself, you can get so many
more amazing products to serve your guests.” And while Pynt says you can get whatever
you want whenever you want, you have to be organised. “Ordering is the biggest challenge because you have to indent five days; the planning is challenging.”
Ends portfolio is on the table if the conditions
meetings once a month. It’s more of a mentor role
me’. If they leave and they’re better than me, I’m really f**king happy. ”
restaurants, but further expansion of the Burnt are right. “The Maldives is like a beachside
version of Burnt Ends, so if we can do that with
a partner overseas, 100 per cent we can replicate it,” he says. “But it’s not, ‘Let’s take over the
world and watch it go to shit. We have to get it right and put systems in place that work.”
On the day of Hospitality’s interview, the
Singapore is known as a country that has
kitchen was at the tail end of a 13-day stretch.
from Japan, vegetables come from Europe and
this point, but not this team. The chef uses the
access to the best of the best. Fish is flown in
the concept of seasonality isn’t rammed down
your throat like it is in Australia. In Singapore, everything is in season all the time. But as a
chef who’s worked in countries such as the UK 18 | Hospitality
Singapore, it doesn’t exist. You can fight it or
have conversations every few weeks and I go to
start with me: ‘I just want you to be better than per cent of
you’re forced to change up your menu, but in
Australia’s top chef has his hands full with five
and I can almost leave him alone,” he says. “We
the best they can be. I say to a lot of the staff that Burnt Ends
everything was super local and seasonal and
four years has taken over one of the Meatsmiths
rather than a boss and just nurturing them to be
60-70
to Daniel Humm and he was asking how I find
Most people would be reaching exhaustion by word ‘slayer’ a lot to describe his staff, but it’s
perhaps most applicable to the chef himself. “I
like working and I enjoy it,” he says. “I wouldn’t come to work if I didn’t like it.” ■
Wherever life takes you
We go with you
Wherever you go, take a top performing super fund.
Hostplus. We go with you. Top performing balanced investment fund over 1, 3, 5, 7 and 15 years (SuperRatings Fund Crediting Rate Survey – SR50, 18 July 2018). Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance. Consider the Host-Plus PDS and your objectives, financial situation and needs, which are not accounted for in this information before making an investment decision. Host-Plus Pty Limited ABN 79 008 634 704, AFSL No. 244392. INH1072_0719
DRINKS // In-house collaboration
It takes two
Tayim’s Little Ramos
Food and drink are a natural pair, but bartenders and chefs have only just begun to explore each other’s domains. WORDS Madeline Woolway THE LINE BETWEEN restaurant and bar
casual and depends on our schedules,”
“The one they use in the bar needs to be
staff often remain intact. While there
down in the office, doing some ordering
Ultimately, it’s the same recipe with some
has blurred, but the boundaries between are logical reasons for the divide — they are two different worlds with different
demands, after all — there are rewards for
says Ramirez. “It could be just us sitting together for the next day or having a casual conversation.”
At other times, it becomes the focus
rolled out, so it’s thin and not so intense. changes to the final steps, so it doesn’t stretch the kitchen team.”
those willing to collaborate.
of staff meals, which bring chefs and
And when chefs don’t have the capacity, they
Xander Ramirez, bar manager at Tayim in
“[We] talk about flavours or ideas when
reason. “If they want to come in and use the
Sydney’s The Rocks says time is the biggest barrier. Kitchens and bars tend to keep different hours, and so do their staff. There are physical constraints, too,
bartenders together in an ideal world. we’re all sitting down,” says Ramirez.
“We talk about where we want to take the direction of Tayim’s beverage and food.”
especially at bigger establishments. “In my
experience, you don’t have the opportunity to get to know each other,” says Ramirez.
“You’re always going to be tucked away at
the bar or on the floor selling cocktails and
the head chef is going to be in the kitchen.” Time and physical barriers are
one thing, language and culture are another. Ultimately, the former can
open the kitchen up to the bar team — within kitchen outside of service time, they can,”
says Fitzsimmons. The chef has also passed
unneeded equipment on to the bar team, too, facilitating even more experimentation.
In return, the bar team has stepped up
“Chef Ran has changed the way I understand a cuisine I don’t know much about.” – Xander Ramirez
to the challenge. “They know how to make their own caramels and all that sort of
stuff,” says Fitzsimmons. “They’ve come to
me with a couple of things I’ve never done before, fruit roll-ups for example, which I
could research and learn to do, but they’ve had a go and mastered it.”
Green Moustache bar supervisor
be accommodated if the two teams
At Green Moustache, the bar team come
Marcella Guilfoyle developed a fruit roll-up
dependent on leadership. Ramirez has
they can help. Requests have varied from
equipment such as a dehydrator.
are willing. Success in this respect is
established a rapport with Tayim head chef Ran Kimelfeld based on a mutual
to the chefs with ideas, who see how honeycomb to fruit roll-ups.
Head chef Pete Fitzsimmons is honest
goal. “Chef Ran and I share an ideology,”
about what his team can achieve given the
offering to be as premium as possible and
the kitchen’s workload to an unreasonable
he says. “We want the beverage and food as authentic as possible.”
Surprisingly, the solution is to take a less
structured approach. “Our process is quite 20 | Hospitality
demands of service. Some requests can take level. Others, such as a honeycomb garnish,
recipe and other garnishes, using kitchen
However, she’s quick to point out a good
relationship between kitchen and bar staff
is what’s allowed the team to learn. “Open communication needs to be there so when someone needs help they can ask for it.”
are no problem. “I use honeycomb in a
The results speak for themselves.
naturally aerates and puffs up,” he says.
Ramirez have been able to create a more
dessert, [but] it’s a different style; one that
By working together, Kimelfeld and
A strawberry roll-up made with
cocktail list and the menu. “Chef Ran
peppercorns and lemon juice makes for
cuisine I don’t know much about,”
when paired with Glenfiddich and
has changed the way I understand a says Ramirez. “He’s able to explain
flavour combinations in a way that I can understand. It’s almost like he’s
giving his past experiences when he describes flavours.”
The stories give Ramirez a greater
understanding of the ingredients he’s
working with and the pair are able to
create an experience where cocktails and
food truly complement each other. In some cases, Kimelfeld has even taught Ramirez
an interesting combination of flavours
strawberry tonic. Honeycomb sweetens the smoky flavours of the After Hours, which features Zacapa 23, Laphroaig
and salted caramel. And a salty garnish of air-dried beef — courtesy of the kitchen — and maraschino cherry
balances the bitter-sweet symphony
of the Not a Negroni, which combines Woodford Reserve, Amaro Nonino, Averna and bitters.
Essentially, more complex, chef-like
techniques to help incorporate flavours.
garnishes help the bar team develop
emblematic of the relationship. A twist
drinks with a multitude of qualities.
Ramirez says the Little Ramos is
on one of his favourite classics, a Ramos
more intriguing ways to infuse their
Gin Fizz, the drink pays homage to
The benefits of a tightknit venue are
that suits its environment. “I incorporated
Green Moustache have been able to up
cocktail canon while serving up a libation fermented chilli, which is used in our
dishes,” he says. Kimelfeld also taught Ramirez how to make the ingredient. Inspiration from the kitchen has
allowed Green Moustache bartenders
to get creative with garnishes, leading
to more complex cocktails and a unique drinking experience.
evident in the outcome — Tayim and
their cocktail games thanks to kitchen collaboration.
Given the effect on both culture and
����. '5 �· CS600 Juice Chef The world's first commercial vertical Cold Press fruit and vegetable Juicer
T he CS600 Chef Kuvings Cold Press Juicer features a larger than industry sized 88mm flip gate, offering a wide feeding chute to input your fruits and vegetables. Sleek design, with an extra top set for a quick change between recipes. • 24 hous of continuous operation • 40 to 60 litres per hour of cold press juicing
• 88mm flip gate for whole fruit
• High Yield for all fruit and vegetables • Juices hard vegetables, greens and wheatgrass with ease • Stylish, Quiet and Easy to Clean
• No Separation and Taste Delicious • Quick Return on Investment
• Suitable for Cafes, Restaurants, Juice Bars, Hotels, Schools and Hospitals
drinks is undeniably positive, a close
relationship between kitchen and bar
should be the norm. “Guests can benefit from a good relationship [between the
two],” says Ramirez. “Unfortunately, it’s not common enough.” ■
Green Moustache’s After Hours
“Open communication needs to be there so when someone needs help they can ask for it.” – Marcella Guilfoyle
3x MORE PROFIT THAN COFFEE** *Based on average wholesale mstto produce a litre of juice. **Based on avg. $8.00 cost of a glass of fresh juice.
August 2019 | 21
DRINKS // In-house collaboration
harmonious relationship between the
TURN JUICE INTO PROFIT IN UNDER 15 DAYS*
FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants Daniela Soto-Innes and Massimo Bottura
Simply the best? Hospitality attended The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in Singapore — so was it all it was cracked up to be? WORDS Annabelle Cloros THE 2019 EDITION of The World’s 50
the days where he would yell and scream
employs ‘older’ employees and encourages
anything the industry had ever seen
mentors and I let myself be angry in the
an industry fuelled by a churn and burn
Best Restaurants was slated to be unlike before. A host of new rules were ushered in to create a program that spruiked
buzzwords including ‘gender-balanced’, ‘diversity’ and ‘inclusivity’. But was it
really that different from the Euro-centric iterations of years gone by?
Hospitality was on the ground in
Singapore to attend pre- and post- event press conferences, the 50 Best Talks —
featuring our own Tetsuya Wakuda — and of course, the coveted awards ceremony. The mania kicked off with 50 Best Talks
in his kitchen. “I emulated some of my
kitchen and I treated the cooks and staff poorly, screaming at them,” he said. But
the Le Bernardin chef decided to make a change and started studying Buddhism, meeting with a Tibetan monk once a
of kitchen culture from hostile to holistic along with gender and age equality.
Ripert kicked things off and recalled
22 | Hospitality
in these kinds of kitchens.”
After the Hisa Franko chef won World’s
media revolved around gender in the
receiving and translate them into a secular message for the team. They seem to be
responding well to the logic I’m sharing. I lead by example.”
On the topic of women in the industry, Ros
kitchen who had told her they were planning
most memorable revolving around the shift
looks like there is an age limit for working
the teachings and take the messages I’m
Soto-Innes, Eric Ripert, Ana Ros, Massimo interesting topics were raised, with the
the team [are] under 30,” she said. “It
Best Female Chef in 2017, she said a
day I study,” he said. “I try to absorb
recalled the countless conversations she’s
Bottura and Tetsuya Wakuda. Some
mentality. “[In] most kitchens, almost all
week. “Every day I meditate and every
which featured a panel discussion on
the topic of kitchen karma with Daniela
work–life balance, it’s not the norm in
had with young female chefs working in her on quitting cooking because they wanted
to have children. Ros said she was met with
shock and surprise when she told them “you can do it here”; proving flexible workplaces are few and far between in hospitality. While Ros runs a restaurant that
lot of the conversations she had with
industry, but stressed age is also a point
of contention in the industry that impacts everyone. “How about equality of age?” she asked. “Show me a kitchen capable of having someone who is 45. We have a woman in the kitchen who is 55 and
I look at her and say, ‘How the hell can
I make this kitchen environment better for you because I want you to be here’. Soto-Innes was quick to jump in with
the comment “I don’t think age matters”, which resulted in a debate between the two chefs. Soto-Innes, who was named
2019 Best Female Chef, said her New York
FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants
Eric Ripert and Ana Ros
Massimo Bottura
restaurant Cosme has a team comprising
50 per cent of women over the age of 50,
but Ros was quick to point out Cosme is a
blue diamond in this instance. “I’m talking about people over 50 who want to retire with this job,” said Ros. “In Europe, it’s
almost impossible. I can tell you that and I stand behind my words.”
All in all, an interesting conversation
that reiterated the issues we are
experiencing in Australia are very much present on a global level.
When William Reed announced Singapore would be the host city of The World’s 50
Best Restaurants, the move received high
Tetsuya Wakuda and speakers
praise from the global culinary community. Not only did it mark the first time the
ceremony and its associated events would
Best Female Chef in 2019, echoed the
beginning for the program.
in Asia was a much-needed change. “The
be held in Asia, but it heralded a new The day before the awards, a pre-
event press conference was held at the National Gallery, with William Reed
sentiment, and said hosting the ceremony focus has moved to this part of the world,” said the chef.
Reed also took the opportunity to
group managing director Charles Reed
introduce the Best of the Best — a hall
Park’s Daniel Humm, Gaa’s Garima Arora,
restaurants. In a nutshell, inductees to the
in attendance alongside Eleven Madison Odette’s Julien Royer, El Celler de Can
Roca’s Joan Roca and Singapore Tourism Board’s Melissa Ow.
Reed said Singapore was “an appropriate
of fame of sorts for former number one
Best of the Best will not be included on
future lists — unless they pull a Noma and move their restaurant.
Humm is one of now seven inductees,
setting” for the awards given its culinary
and said the program allowed a greater
“hawker to fine dining favourites” and
making the top rankings given the usual
landscape covering everything from
described the 2019 awards as the “most extensive ever”, with each of the 50
restaurants on the list represented at the ceremony. Arora, who was named Asia’s
“[In] most kitchens, almost all the team [are] under 30. It looks like there is an age limit for working in these kinds of kitchens.” – Ana Ros
number of restaurants to have a shot at suspects are out of the picture. “With
these changes, we’ll see a broader field of restaurants and chefs step onto the international stage and it’s humbling
August 2019 | 23
FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants
One to watch Lido 84 Gardone Riviera, Italy
Icon Award José Andres
Best Pastry Chef Jessica Préalpato
World’s Best Female Chef Daniela Soto-Innes
Art of Hospitality Den Tokyo, Japan
Chefs’ Choice Alain Passard
Sustainable Restaurant Schloss Schauenstein
Julia and Mauro Colagreco
Zaiyu Hasegawa
to be able to contribute to that transformation,” he said.
“Food is all about community and expanding that will only strengthen our impact.”
In the lead up to the event, Time ran a piece which alleged
the Best of the Best was a program spearheaded by a group of high-profile chefs, including Massimo Bottura, who
voiced concerns over ‘drops’ in the list and the effects they
experienced personally and professionally, e.g. loss of status among peers and declines in bookings. However, World’s
50 Best Group Editor William Drew said that while William
Reed had consulted with chefs, the Best of the Best had been in the works for some time.
The awards ceremony was held at the Marina Bay Sands
Singapore, with hoards of chefs and restaurateurs donning their red scarves in anticipation for the new no.1. In honour of main sponsor S.Pellegrino’s 120st
anniversary, the program extended the list from 50 to 120
for the first time, with an additional 70 restaurants ranked.
The extended list was especially newsworthy for Australians, who arguably saw two of our top restaurants, Brae and
Attica, clock in at 101 and 84 respectively. Both restaurants experienced significant drops compared to 2018, which led
many to believe Peter Gilmore’s Quay — which ranked in at 95 in 2017 and was excluded last year due to its closure — or Jock Zonfrillo’s Orana would make an appearance.
But as the list ticked over, it became apparent there
would be no Australian restaurants on the list. How could
this be? Australia’s culinary scene is up there with the best which leads to the most logical reason — we’re simply too 24 | Hospitality
PILES OF GIFT CARDS UP FOR GRABS
5x TO ENTER
$5000
5x
$1000
100x
$100
Spend $200 with at least two qualifying products from the Anchor FP range in one transaction. Enter by visiting shredyourbills.com.au or contacting your Anchor FP rep.
Conditions apply see anchorfp.com.au. Must be an eligible food service business. Runs from 1/8/19 until 30/9/19. Must purchase at least $200 of eligible products with at least 2 different products in 1 transaction to enter. Prizes: *5 x $5000 EFTPOS Gift Cards (1 per state group: NSW/ACT; VIC/TAS; SA/NT; WA & QLD); 5 x $1000 EFTPOS Gift Cards; & 100 x $100 EFTPOS Gift Cards. Draw at U40, 1-5 Thew Pde Cromer NSW 15/10/19 at 11am. Winners (over $250) published on website (SA winners over $250 in The Advertiser) on 18/10/19. Fonterra Brands (Australia) Pty Ltd (ABN 80 095 181 669), L 2, 40 River Blvd, Richmond, VIC. LTPS/19/35809, SA Permit T19/1056, ACT Permit TP19/03663.
FEATURE // World’s 50 Best Restaurants
Top 50 1. Mirazur (Menton, France) 2. Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark) 3. Asador Etxebarri (Atxondo, Spain) 4. Gaggan (Bangkok, Thailand) 5. Geranium (Copenhagen, Denmark) 6. Central (Lima, Peru) 7. Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain) 8. Arpège (Paris, France) 9. Disfrutar (Barcelona, Spain) 10. Maido (Lima, Peru) 11. Den (Tokyo, Japan) 12. Pujol (Mexico City, Mexico) 13. White Rabbit (Moscow, Russia) 14. Azurmendi (Larrabetzu, Spain) 15. Septime (Paris, France) 16. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (Paris, France) Eric Ripert
far away for judges and voters. A trip
by Asador Etxebarri (Spain),
one. Here’s hoping we have better
(Copenhagen). Spain had the highest
Down Under is unfortunately a long luck next year and the airfares continue to drop.
Overall, 26 countries made up the top
50 with France’s Mirazur — which also secured three Michelin stars earlier in
the year — snagging the no.1 position. It marked the first time a restaurant in France topped the list, and was
especially noteworthy as it is run by a
non-French chef; Mauro Colagreco is of Argentinean and Italian background. Colagreco described the win as a
dream during the post-event press
Gaggan (Thailand) and Geranium
number of restaurants in the top 50
with a total of seven with the US coming in at six and France coming in at five.
Mexico (Pujol, no.12; Quintonil, no.24)
and South America were also prominent in the list, with restaurants from
Colombia (Leo, no.49); Peru (Central,
no.6; Maido, no.10); Brazil (A Casa do Porco, no.39); Chile (Borago, no.26) and Argentina (Don Julio, no.34) all
ranking in. There were a total of 12 new entries, meaning the majority of the list comprised return restaurants.
conference, and reflected on how far he
While the 2019 edition of The World’s
with a team of three in the kitchen and
around gender equality, the program
has come in 13 years when he started two on the floor. “We know how hard everybody has worked so I’m happy,”
he said. When asked how he felt about Mirazur being named as the number
one restaurant in the world in front of his peers, he used the word ‘pressure’.
“It’s so nice, but it’s a big responsibility,” he said. “I worked for [chefs like] Alain Ducasse — all these chefs inspire me a
lot. I will never forget [this] in my life.” Controversially, Noma (Copenhagen) ranked in at number two and was
also the highest new entry followed 26 | Hospitality
50 Best Restaurants promised big things missed the mark. There were only five restaurants with female chefs in the
top 50 — the same as 2018, and while the presence of restaurants in South America (six) and Asia (seven) was
promising, 26 of the top 50 are based in Europe.
The introduction of the Best of the
Best should make for an interesting
few years, and once Noma is inducted (my bet is 2020), it will open up
space on the list for a greater variety
of restaurants from — hopefully — a greater variety of countries. ■
17. Steirereck (Vienna, Austria) 18. Odette (Singapore) 19. Twins Garden (Moscow, Russia) 20. Tickets (Barcelona, Spain) 21. Frantzén (Stockholm, Sweden) 22. Narisawa (Tokyo, Japan) 23. Cosme (New York City, USA) 24. Quintonil (Mexico City, Mexico) 25. Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen (Paris, France) 26. B oragó (Santiago, Chile) 27. The Clove Club (London, United Kingdom) 28. Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Pocantico Hills, USA) 29. Piazza Duomo (Alba, Italy) 30. Elkano (Getaria, Spain) 31. Le Calandre (Rubano, Italy) 32. Nerua (Bilbao, Spain) 33. Lyle’s (London, United Kingdom) 34. Don Julio (Buenos Aires, Argentina) 35. Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, USA) 36. Le Bernardin (New York City, USA) 37. Alinea (Chicago, USA) 38. Hiša Franko (Kobarid, Slovenia) 39. A Casa do Porco (São Paulo, Brazil) 40. Restaurant Tim Raue (Berlin, Germany) 41. The Chairman (Hong Kong) 42. Belcanto (Lisbon, Portugal) 43. Hof Van Cleve (Kruishoutem, Belgium) 44. Test Kitchen (Cape Town, South Africa) 45. Sühring (Bangkok, Thailand) 46. De Librije (Zwolle, Netherlands) 47. Benu (San Francisco, USA) 48. Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet (Shanghai, China) 49. Leo (Bogotá, Colombia) 50. Schloss Schauenstein (Fürstenau, Switzerland)
Australia’s Finest Produce on Show Connect with Australia’s Best Producers at the NEW Sydney Royal Taste of Excellence. See the 2019 Sydney Royal Fine Food Show Champions announced, plus meet selected local exhibitors to taste their medal winning produce.
When
Tuesday 24 September 2019 11am – 4pm Sydney Showground, Sydney Olympic Park
Find out more REGISTRATION IS FREE www.rasnsw.com.au/ tasteofexcellence
FEATURE // Pork
Edwina Beveridge
Australian Story Australian pork producers are a cut above the rest when it comes to quality, environmental management and animal welfare. WORDS Madeline Woolway PORK IS A favourite for consumers and chefs alike. The versatile protein can be
processed into a number of products from
practices that make our homegrown pigs worthy of more market share.
fresh pork to ham, bacon and a plethora of
The majority of people don’t know where
In 2015–2016, the local pork industry
the level of awareness varies. There’s a 50
charcuterie and smallgoods.
contributed more than $5.2 billion to Australia’s GDP and it supports more
than 36,000 full-time equivalent jobs. All in all, it’s a valuable sector — and
that’s despite the challenges it faces from
their pork is from. According to Haydon,
28 | Hospitality
$14 per hundred grams.
The reality is more than 80 per cent of
kilograms of imported pork arrives in the
imported meat.
The lack of knowledge can be forgiven.
be produced in Australia. Vague country
General Manager Peter Haydon about the
can the prosciutto that costs upwards of
if the bacon they’re slinging is made from
been in the trade for 20-plus years knows
leading pork producers, Blantyre Farms’
Pork’s Judy Croagh, and Australian Pork’s
cafe? It can come from anywhere. So too
the ham and bacon sold in Australia is
While processed goods can be legally
Edwina Beveridge and Western Plains
with a big breakfast at the neighbourhood
per cent chance the local butcher who’s
international competition.
Hospitality talks to two of the country’s
restaurant menus. The pile of bacon served
imported. As of March 2018, 3.1 million
country each week; that’s $12.96 million worth of pork products.
Unsurprisingly, Australian producers
imported, all fresh pork sold here must
want a slice of the pie.
of origin labelling in supermarkets only
For the most part, there’s one reason
there are no mandatory labelling laws for
have come to dominate the domestic
compounds the confusion. On top of that,
imported products such as ham and bacon
tends to be more expensive for a number of reasons, all of them worthy of the higher cost.
To begin with, the quality tends to be
better. “Australian pork, whether it’s ham
or bacon or fresh, comes from around the corner,” says Haydon. “It doesn’t need to
be frozen for weeks or potentially months.”
“If you’ve got quality, an innovative farmer, an environmental benefit and a welfare benefit, then you’ve got a really powerful provenance story.” – Peter Haydon
There’s also an opportunity for
smallgoods suppliers or restaurants keen
to produce their own charcuterie to work directly with farmers.
Croagh has worked closely with
restaurants since 2000, developing
relationships with chefs around Victoria. Now, Western Plains Pork supplies Salt Kitchen Charcuterie with female pigs grown in a dedicated paddock to a
specific size especially for the providore. The partnership means Salt Kitchen
Charcuterie is able to procure pigs that
are more than double the normal weight with more muscle and a higher fat
content. “They’re [also] outside working
their muscles a bit more, which is good for charcuterie,” explains Croagh.
“Average consumers don’t choose stuff
the producer and stock handler to ensure
These relationships are mutually
just for [provenance],” he says. “It’s got to
quality. “Australian outlets are much more
But if you’ve got quality, an innovative
their pigs indoors, has a “little bit more”
welfare benefit, then you’ve got a really
to Beveridge. “The sheds have insulated
beneficial, and not just in terms of
important to Australian pork farmers
than overseas outlets,” says Haydon. “We don’t export much, so certainty of supply is much higher if you have a relationship with an Australian producer.”
Blantyre Farms produces an impressive
number of animals. With 2000 sow
taste great and be good value for money. farmer, an environmental benefit and a powerful provenance story.”
People can enjoy what they’re eating and
feel good about it — most are happy to pay for that experience.
piggery, there are between 22,000–23,000
Australia has strict laws regulating the
goes into fresh pork because the overseas
Practice for the Welfare of Animals (2007) —
cheaper than us,” says Beveridge.
with all levels of industry as well as
pigs on-site at any one time. “Most of it market can produce [processed goods]
Ideally, more manufacturers would buy
Australian pork allowing producers to increase their yield.
Provenance has become a pivotal selling
treatment of animals. The Model Code of
warm in winter and cool in summer,” she
says. “They have automatically ventilated
blinds that run the full length of the sheds. If the thermostat says it’s getting too
warm, they’ll open up to let air in; if it’s too cold, they close up.”
The sheds are quite open with a limited
to run around,” says Beveridge. “I’m very
responsibilities involved in caring for pigs. It covers everything from their housing, food and water to special needs.
The majority of Australian pig farmers
more than 80 per cent of pigs, no matter
environment can impact decision-making.
walls and ceilings that keep the room
regulators, RSPCA and scientists outlines the
environment. Haydon admits quality is a key but benefits for animal welfare and the
technology than most farmers, according
number of pens. “[Pigs] might be in a
voluntarily work to standards higher than
driver when it comes to consumer choice,
Blantyre Farms, which houses all of
Pigs (the Code), developed in consultation
point, with diners increasingly interested in the treatment of animals and the
the welfare of pigs.
those required by law, which accounts for the farming system they’re raised under.
The indoor, outdoor bred and free-range
systems all rely on the husbandry skills of
pen with 200 others and they have room comfortable with having them indoors.
The pigs are protected from the elements, but they’ve got fresh air. We can also control the effluent.”
Slatted flooring allows manure to drop
through the floor, which keeps the pens — and the pigs — clean.
For Croagh, the decision to operate under an outdoor bred system was
August 2019 | 29
FEATURE // Pork
market — they’re cheaper. Australian pork
FEATURE // Pork
The majority of Australian pig farmers voluntarily work to
already comparatively low environmental
standards higher than those required by law. personal. “All our breeding stock live
outside,” she says. “The piglets are born
outside and then move into eco shelters. I think it’s a nice environment.”
Although the animals are free to move
around outside, the eco shelters offer
“It’s an intensive system,” says Croagh.
“We have a lot of people working here and
the stock are checked all the time. We have automatic feeders in the pre-sowing.” Beveridge also makes use of automatic
feeding technology. “The pigs have food and water in front of them constantly,” she says. cent of the ham and bacon sold in
Australia’s GDP
Australia is made
in 2015–16.
using imported pork
“Most of that is computer controlled, so you can dial into it and see that it’s working.” The use of feeding technology offers
producers the opportunity to maintain their stock’s health through a closely
3.1 million kilograms of imported pork
is produced
products arrive in
here
Australia each week
manure is channelled into a 15-megalitre dam, where the biogas released by
the effluent is captured and refined
into methane that is then used to run generators that power the farm.
and free-range systems to collect manure a nine-year paddock lifestyle system,
resulting in a different but equally as
positive impact on the environment. Pigs are regularly rotated to new paddocks,
preventing the build up of any nutrients that could compromise the water table.
“[Our breeding stock] will start in one
location and will be set up there for two to three years, then we soil test and they’re
moved to a fresh site,” says Croagh. “Then the farmer — we lease a lot of land as
well — comes in and crops, utilising all the nutrients the pigs have left behind. It can be sustainable within the whole farm plan.”
Manure is also collected from open-
they want, while nutritionists make sure
before being spread out onto the paddocks.
Fast reproduction systems and low
feed conversion make pigs a relatively
sustainable source of protein. Continual research and development has seen the Australian pork industry capitalise on
the potential to further reduce emissions. Currently, the industry is working to
meet an on-farm goal of 1 kilogram CO2
(equivalent) per kilogram of pork produced. One way Blantyre Farms is mitigating
their impact — and the impact of our food
they are weaned, which is left to compost
Worthwhile as they are, practices such
as those followed at Blantyre Farms and Western Plains mean Australian pork
is often more expensive than imported products. But, as Haydon puts it, the decrease in margins might not be as
diabolical as it seems, particularly when it comes to processed goods. “There’s
typically not that much ham or bacon in a meal,” he says.
A 20 per cent premium for Australian
system at large — is through the use of
pork products, he explains, will mostly
redirected 13,500 tonnes of food waste
cent bump in menu prices. And if it’s
food waste products. Beveridge says they into feed for the pigs last year. “All those
products could have ended up in landfill, creating methane gas,” she says. 30 | Hospitality
mitigating environmental impacts. The
ended straw huts that house piglets once
their diets are balanced. Australia
it’s supported progress when it comes to
controlled diet. Automation means pigs
have access to food and water whenever
All fresh pork in
does more than keep the animals clean,
like this, Western Plains has developed
an absence of tech or intervention, though.
contributed more
The ability to collect all the effluent
of year, when it’s really wet and cold, they An outdoor bred system doesn’t mean
than $5.2 billion to
impact of pigs.
While it can be difficult for outside bred
like to stay inside,” says Croagh.
More than 80 per
innovations aimed at further reducing the
protection when needed. Essentially, the
pigs are able to act on instinct. “This time
The pork industry
Housing their pigs indoors allows the
Blantyre Farms team to explore a range of
likely lead to the need for just a 4 per
good for diners, pigs and the environment alike, buying Australian pork is worth a potentially small increase to costs. ■
BACK ROW: • Amy Hamilton - Liberté, WA • Emma McCaskill - SA • Nick Holloway - Nu Nu, QLD • Matt Stone - Oakridge, VIC
• Damien Pignolet - Industry Legend, NSW • Troy Crisante - Quay, NSW • Jo Barrett - Oakridge, VIC • Louis Tikaram - E.P. & L.P., Los Angeles, USA
FRONT ROW:
It promises to be a very happy, prosperous and extremely delicious “YEAR of the PIG” for these talented PorkStars. Pork allows chefs to explore and indulge their imaginations like no other meat. Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.
Matt Fowles and his family
FEATURE // Regional pairings
Better together FOR CHEFS AND sommeliers, one question is always front of mind: How can we bring out the best in both food and wine?
Of course, there’s more than one answer.
Food and wine pairings can flow from
a number of strategies, but ‘what grows together, goes together’ is driving the
agenda in restaurants and cellar doors.
Hospitality speaks to three operators who are taking the ethos to new heights. At Fowles Wine in the Strathbogie
Ranges region of Victoria, local is part of the day-to-day operations. Owner Matt
ingredients from around the region.
Over on the west coast, there’s Arimia
wines; an off-grid winery and restaurant
that draws the bulk of its ingredients from a 135-acre property in Margaret River.
With 7.5 hectares under vine, six dams, a winter creek and 18 beehives, owner and farmer Ann Spencer produces a bounty on-site, from trout, marron and pigs to
vegetables. As a result, chef and business partner Evan Hayter’s menu is a true reflection of the locality.
For Stokehouse St Kilda, it’s about
bringing a local approach to the city.
vegetables and slaughter the animals.
suppliers, the Melbourne restaurant
32 | Hospitality
WORDS Madeline Woolway
The majority of the menu is created using
Fowles and the team, including head chef Adele Aitken, make the wine, grow the
Most iconic food and wine pairings are tied to the adage ‘what grows together, goes together’, but how are contemporary Australian venues reimagining the maxim?
Known for its close relationship with
“For people with a heightened awareness around food provenance, matching local wine to food is the ultimate from a philosophical point of view.” – Matt Fowles
Drawing on over 140 years of industry experience, Venezia Syrups & Sauces are made from the finest local and European imported flavours and essences.
FEATURE // Regional pairings
“It’s more to emphasise that you need not look elsewhere when there’s something really special happening close by.” – Gavin Cremming Stokehouse St Kilda group sommelier Gavin Cremming
recently wrapped up a dinner series called What Grows Together Goes
Together, which showcased produce from the Macedon Ranges and the Victorian High Country.
Interpretations of what grows together, goes together are plentiful. It can sum
up the pairing of seasonal produce, the terroir behind local delicacies or the
traditions behind a particular cuisine.
When it comes to food and wine pairings, it’s the last mention that tends to prevail. However, it’s widely agreed there is something behind terroir.
“There will be characteristics to produce
grown in the same environment, which
can support food and wine matches,” says
Fowles. “In our case, with the cool climate and limited fertility of the Strathbogie
Ranges, we grow wine and food with great intensity of flavour. Partly due to soil,
but also from the cool climate and longer
growing times — it gives the produce time to accumulate flavour.”
Stokehouse group sommelier Gavin
grows and lives off the same nutrients in
the soil and adapts to the same climate.” The opportunity to explore the impact
of different environmental factors on
rearing of pigs and certain varietals. “The
cold climate areas and high altitude areas,” says Hansford. “I wanted to see how that affected things; to see what each region
has to offer and how each region differs
complementing food and wine through the high fat content of pork is a natural match
for the full-bodied, high-acid varietals that are cultivated in the region,” he says.
Back in Australia, pairings have developed
from each other.”
with a little more manipulation. Wine has
While the concept of terroir is often
while our food culture has emerged through
evident in wines, it shouldn’t be taken
too literally when it comes to produce.
evolved in line with changes to the climate, different waves of migration.
The effects of soil and climate likely
A match that elevates is still the
it’s more a case of growing produce that
food from the surrounding region is
won’t result in different flavour profiles;
makes sense for the region. For example,
particular grape varietals grow well under
certain conditions, and the same is true for produce more generally.
“They grow in certain seasons, and
certain soil structures for a reason, so
there’s definitely a link there,” says Hayter.
such as body, texture and different
34 | Hospitality
Cremming says Piedmont, Italy,
Stokehouse. “Victoria is massive, [with]
Hansford to host the dining series at
he says. “I think the same principle exists area. I guess the idea is that everything
result in a happy marriage.
is an example of a region producing
Contemporary standards dictate matches
for produce grown or reared in the same
winemaking and culinary traditions often
produce is what drove head chef Ollie
Cremming articulates a similar sentiment.
“In the wine world, we talk about terroir,”
way of convenience, but the coevolution of
are made with reference to characteristics components of flavour including sugar, acid and tannins. Historically, pairings come by
objective, but pairing wines with
driven more directly by philosophy — it’s as much about sustainability and storytelling as it is custom.
“Sustainability is important to us as
farmers; carefully grown produce always tastes better,” says Fowles.
At Arimia, what grows together, goes
together isn’t about the principles of
pairing, it’s a way of running the business. Decisions about what to produce on the
property stem from Spencer and Hayter’s commitment to organic principles and
sustainable practices. Pigs, for example,
Discover more about these products at
Fine Food AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA Stand :
HT20
Metro provide complete solutions that optimize space, improve workflow and ensure safety within commercial kitchens, health care, aged care and commercial catering applications. Metro provide green, cost effective and innovative storage solutions such as wire & rack type adjustable shelving, mobile & track shelving, walk in cooler shelving, polymer carts and insulated pan carriers across Australia. 60% lighter than traditional moulded carriers, the Metro Mighty Lite is equipped with convenient handles, and has the ultimate design for lifting, carrying, and moving in any situation! These innovative carriers can confidently hold food safe for up to 5 hours.
Quality Availability Value Simply Stainless has a simple philosophy – Quality, Availability & Value. Our range of modular stainless steel benching and cabinetry is manufactured to the highest specification and backed by our unique Lifetime Warranty.
Stokehouse St Kilda team at Beechworth Honey
FEATURE // Regional pairings
were introduced to stem the invasion of
declared pest the Arum lily. “To begin with, it was a regenerative farming strategy,”
says Hayter. “[Arum lily] are everywhere, they block up waterways and take over everything.”
After discovering pigs could eat the
plant, they were introduced to the farm — and the menu. The team at Arimia
take a different approach; although it’s a vineyard, the wine doesn’t prescribe
the food it’s served alongside. “The wine
doesn’t tell me what to cook,” says Hayter. “But it still has to match well.”
The matches often come naturally, and
“We’ve all seen restaurants work with
from the local area creates a memorable
somms that build lists on large quantities,”
local producers means quality is ensured.
the close proximity of vines and other
bad produce, chefs that don’t care or
more a matter of farming practices than
says Cremming. “This [dinner series] is
produce could be to thank. It might be
environmental factors. The pigs at Arimia produce less robust pork than usual
about breaking all that down.”
experience for guests and working with Sourced a kilometre from her house in Avenel, the mushrooms are still warm
when they arrive at the winery, a further
because they’re fed a vegetarian diet. As a
Pairing local food with local wine will most
well with an elegant red such as the 2013
sustainability sells. “For people with
the mushrooms are grown as carefully as the
provenance, matching local wine to food is
of those can’t compare to a mushroom you
result, the cellar door’s pork ragout pairs Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot, which is
exemplary of the Margaret River region. Many who follow the what grows
together, goes together ethos are at the
likely come with higher costs. Fortunately, a heightened awareness around food
the ultimate from a philosophical point of view,” says Fowles.
Head chef Aitken agrees that storytelling
forefront of the industry’s sustainability
potential is second to none. The chef’s
St Kilda, Fowles and Arimia admit it’s not
with Avenel mushrooms, Berrys Creek blue
movement. The teams behind Stokehouse necessarily easy being green.
“It’s going to be hard to practice [the
principle] 100 per cent of the time,”
says Cremming. Beyond concerns about consistent supply, most operators face
economic pressures to find cheaper produce.
favourite match is the baked semolina
cheese and rocket pesto paired with the
Stone Dwellers’ 2017 Chardonnay. “It tells our story so well,” she says.
Working at a cellar door restaurant
means Aitken’s menu is in service of
the wines — pairing them with produce
20 minutes down the road.
For the kitchen team, it means knowing
grapes in their vineyard. “The flavour profile buy at a supermarket,” says Aitken.
In some ways, Stokehouse St Kilda’s dinner
series is a communication strategy. “The idea is to showcase a region,” says Hansford. “We pick the producers we want to promote.” It’s not just marketing local businesses
to consumers, though; it’s an opportunity for the kitchen team to reconnect with
the ingredients they work with everyday.
“Producers say it’s beneficial to have [us] out here,” says Hansford. “But it’s actually more
beneficial for us to see the whole process and open our eyes to what the food industry is
really about and how things are produced. “I want to find out exactly how these
ingredients were grown, who’s behind them, the workload, the effort and the passion that goes into producing these ingredients.”
While the exercise of pairing food and
wine from the same region is beneficial for
chefs, sommeliers and consumers alike, it’s not necessary to be dogmatic.
As Cremming says: “It’s not to say wine
from other areas won’t match with food
from other areas. It’s more to emphasise that you need not look elsewhere when Fowles’ baked semolina and Avenel mushrooms
36 | Hospitality
there’s something really special happening close by.” ■
FEATURE // Brunch in Singapore
Brunch with a twist The Lifestyle Brunch at Racines in Singapore is a feast for the eyes and the tastebuds. WORDS Annabelle Cloros HOTELS ARE STEPPING up
and the option to DIY with a
aioli and parsley butter ragout
power in your hands, allowing
their food game and offering
range of fresh ingredients.
with wild mushrooms. Australian
customers to indulge in the
striploin is another top pick
freedom that comes with a
premium experiences that rival
But before you get carried
the best restaurants across
away with the buffet, don’t
along with lobster bisque and
buffet plus the à la carte menus
the globe. Racines in Sofitel
forget to try out the mains
slow-cooked Angus beef cheek.
curated by the restaurant’s
Singapore City Centre has
designed by executive Chinese
And what’s a meal without a
executive chefs. What’s better
created the ultimate Sunday
chef Andrew Chong and
glass of wine or a non-alcoholic
than that?
brunch that combines the best
executive chef Jean-Charles
option? Guests can choose from
of both worlds — a curated
Dubois. The signature menu
beverage packages ranging
and reservations, contact
buffet and à la carte mains.
offers a range of French and
from juices and sodas to wines,
HA152@sofitel.com
Singaporean dishes including
craft beers, Champagne and
diners can enjoy a range of
seafood laksa, crab rigatoni
revolving cocktails.
options from the buffet, with
with crispy spiced shallots,
special mention going to the
Hainanese chicken rice and
dessert atelier which covers
house-made viennoiseries and
French onion soup.
classic French sweets such as
Dubbed the Lifestyle Brunch,
For more information
The author was a guest of Sofitel Singapore City Centre. ■
Finish off the meal with the
éclair au chocolat and local
Hospitality’s picks
the salad atelier, which covers
with the premium menu created
desserts such as gulab jamun
Hainanese chicken rice
compound creations such as
by Dubois, with highlights
(fried milk balls in fragrant syrup)
sea salt-baked organic beetroot
including locally farmed frogs
and durian mousse cake.
with marinated feta and pear
legs with French pink garlic
15 French cheeses along with
38 | Hospitality
You can step things up a notch
The Luxury Brunch puts the
Rock lobster Dim sum platter
BEHIND THE SCENES // Texas-style brisket
The Taphouse’s
Texas-style brisket An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.
THE TAPHOUSE head chef Richard Price is a “traditionalist” when it comes to barbecue. Letting quality meat shine is the aim for Texans, which is why he sticks to a classic salt and pepper rub for the venue’s smoked brisket. In the smoker, the chef uses a mixture of Australian ironbark with different fruit woods to add complexity.
Ingredients 6kg well-marbled brisket 2 tbsp coarse salt 2 tbsp coarse pepper
Method 1.
Trim underside of brisket to remove excess fat.
2.
Mix equal parts salt and pepper together and coat brisket evenly. Wrap meat in foil and let sit overnight in refrigerator.
3.
Place on middle rack in smoker and cook for eight to 16 hours at 100 degrees Celsius, until the internal temperature reaches 95 degrees Celsius.
4.
Remove from smoker. Allow brisket to rest for one hour before slicing against the grain with a sharp knife. Aim for halfcentimetre-thick slices.
5.
Serve with chips, coleslaw, pickles and barbecue sauce.
Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au
40 | Hospitality
facilitates ease
Egg rings aren’t a one-trick pony — they’re versatile tools for any kitchen.
prevents burns.
EQUIPMENT // Egg ring
Egg ring
A handle of use and A flat cooking surface protects against leakage from under the ring.
Rings come in a number of sizes and shapes.
Both silicon and stainless-
Used to fry and
steel versions are non-stick
poach eggs, shape
and easy to clean.
burgers, mould crumpets, make pancakes and mini Egg rings can be used
omelets and cut
on a grill or in the oven.
cookie dough.
Get your expensive business insurance policy out of your system! It’s time for small business owners to switch and save on business insurance.
Compare Compare FREE multiple quotes online in minutes
Insure Insure your business & receive your documents instantly
Save Save yourself time and money, backed by our Price Promise
Compare with Australia’s Small Business Insurance Specialist
bizcover.com.au
1300 952 849
This information is general advice only and doesn’t take into consideration your particular objectives, financial situation or needs. Before making a decision please consider the relevant Policy Wording. BizCover™ Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769). © 2019 BizCover. BC1250
August 2019 | 41
5 MINUTES WITH ... // Nabila Kadri
Nabila Kadri The Hawker Hall head chef on getting out of her comfort zone, cooking as art and the importance of simplicity. AFTER HIGH SCHOOL, I knew I wanted to
Chin, Baby, Kong and Kisumé. I have had
Melbourne is recognised as one of the food
before moving to France for over a year
cuisines and it’s something I carry with me
fact we have a bigger platform because of TV
be a chef. I studied and cooked in Australia where I worked in a beautiful brasserie in the south. I was supposed to be the sous
chef, but I ended up being the head chef. It was a challenge because I didn’t know how to speak French, but it brought me
back to basics. The experience of having
the privilege of cooking across multiple
and try to empower my chefs with — it’s crucial to work across different cuisines.
It’s important for chefs to get out of their
comfort zone — we’re artists and we need to see every type of art.
Even though we’re working in a big
hubs of the world. I think it derives from the and social media. People have more product and cuisine knowledge and they have an appreciation for both luxury and simple
food. This freedom allows chefs to express themselves, rather than just doing a job.
The evolution of restaurants has allowed
to let my cooking speak for itself without
business, I like to take a personal interest
us to perform better, but it has also created
zero. I think all chefs should do that.
and needs to be managed in a different
is trying to reinvent the wheel more than
communication brought me back to ground
I’ve been privileged to work at many
Lucas Restaurants’ venues including Chin 42 | Hospitality
in my chefs. Every person is different
fashion. I think every team member, from
top to bottom, has something to contribute to the menu.
a tremendous amount of pressure. Everyone we should. I hope simple things will always have a place in our world and that we stay true to our cultures and cuisines. ■
F U L LY
LOADED
FLAVOUR ity Kansas C
Style
Mexican
Style
Made with
Cayenne
Peppers
The range is gluten free, endorsed by Coeliac Australia
Delicious sauces to
up your flavour game!
To order any of our products call your NestlĂŠ Professional representative on 1800 20 30 50 or your local distributor. Find out how NestlĂŠ Professional can make more possible for your business at nestleprofessional.com.au
&
Feed your busineSs
Discover the leading foodservice, bakery, retail and hospitality trade event in Australia. If you work with food, this is your event. Fine Food was created to show you the NEW in the industry, and you won’t leave short of ideas! Whether you’re feeding the critics or the crowds, taste your way through the best on offer for your menu and discover the latest ingredients, techniques and equipment to market. With 1,000 exhibitors and even more brands, 8 stages packed full of free 50+ live cooking demonstrations, 40+ masterclasses and 4 days of the best chefs cooking you the goods, join your industry at Fine Food Australia.
