Hospitality August 2020 by The Intermedia Group

NO.765 AUGUST 2020

MENU DEVELOPMENT • BARREL ONE COFFEE ROASTERS • BOOKINGS

CONTENTS // August

Contents AUGUST 2020

Regulars 4 // IN FOCUS Josh Niland on Saint Peter rebooted. 8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 10 // PRODUCE Rosella is native across parts of Australia. 12 // BEST PRACTICE Café trends for the next five years. 14 // COLUMN The National Indigenous Culinary Institute is working to address underrepresentation in the industry.

2 | Hospitality

16 // DRINKS Bars are back — so what did bartenders miss the most during shutdown? 24 // BUSINESS PROFILE Barrel One Coffee Roasters went from a label to a multi-venue concept. 52 // BEHIND THE SCENES E’cco Bistro’s fine apple tart. 54 // EQUIPMENT Squeeze bottles — can you ever have too many? 56 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Chef Rosheen Kaul.

Features 28 // STAFFING Retaining, maintaining and retraining key staff. 32 // CLEANING A COVID-Safe plan includes a comprehensive cleaning routine. 38 // MENU DEVELOPMENT Three case studies in changing things up. 46 // BOOKINGS The industry is facing a new era where bookings are a must.

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

TOKYO TREAT Koko Black teamed up with Tokyo Lamington to create three treats for World Chocolate Day. @hospitalitymagazine

MONTE-FAILO My only attempt at iso-baking and, honestly, not as good as store bought. @madeline.woolway

Proceeding with caution DESPITE RESTRICTIONS LOOSENING

a timely reminder for operators to remain

around the country, it’s far from business as

vigilant.

usual. While things are looking a little more

find a profile on Barrel One Coffee Roasters,

it’s unfortunately not the case for parts

which started as a label before growing

of Victoria.

into a multi-venue café. We also look at the

The recent spike of COVID-19 cases has

ROLL ON Chicken meatballs at local spot Toriciya take me back to Japan. @annabellecloros

This issue, Hospitality is back to print. You’ll

familiar in venues across most of the country,

increasingly important role of bookings with

seen venues revert back to takeaway and

The Grounds and Hartsyard, how to step up

delivery after just a few weeks of resuming

cleaning procedures, menu development and

dine-in trade. I am heartened by the spirit

retaining and motivating staff. I hope you enjoy this issue.

of Victorian operators who continue to forge ahead and serve the communities they operate within. What’s happening in Victoria

Annabelle Cloros

could easily occur in other states, and is

Editor

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

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August 2020 | 3

IN FOCUS // Saint Peter Photography by Jason Loucas

Saint Peter 2.0 Josh Niland has built the restaurant of his dreams, again. WORDS Madeline Woolway IN HIS OWN words, Josh Niland is a

reticent to leave their Oxford Street

six-day week. All the chefs were doing four

and his wife Julie two months to choose

the site has everything the Saint Peter

40 hours. That’s just how many chefs you

“sucker for punishment”. It took the chef chairs for the revamped iteration of their

Paddington restaurant Saint Peter, where the team will hand cut shoestring fries.

premises. The decision was practical — team needed and it’s just down the road from sister venue Fish Butchery — but

days on, three days off and no more than need, even to run a 34-seat business.”

While Niland used to cook alongside

emotional, too.

two other chefs, there are now three in the

With almost four years under its belt,

past three years has really been poured

and sometimes a prep chef, too.

after a 120-day hiatus. Yes, the break

we’re doing or the service we’re giving or

the fish eatery reopened on 17 July was pandemic induced, but Niland

doesn’t mention that — a change was

“A lot of my effort and energy over the

into this place, not just into the food anything like that,” says Niland.

coming anyway.

When Saint Peter first opened in

the next step for us would be; what the

made. They were “good compromises” in

“Julie and I were always wondering what

evolution would be,” says Niland. “There were a number of different things we could have done.”

There was the option to find a new

space, of course, but the Nilands were 4 | Hospitality

September 2016, compromises were

Niland’s eyes, and he’s proud of what the

main kitchen, one on the pass, one upstairs “There were many challenges having the

team split across two floors,” says Niland. “It turned into a bit of a free for all. We

need a bigger space for all the wonderful chefs we’ve got working for us. We need roles for them and we need greater opportunity for them.”

team accomplished.

Standing in front of the new Saint Peter,

up with seven,” says Niland. “The last

wanted. One built equally for chefs and

“We started with three chefs and ended

roster I wrote had nine chefs on it for a

Niland has the restaurant he always

diners. The space is split in two; one half

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IN FOCUS // Saint Peter

Saint Peter has gone

The new

from a 34-seat

menu will be

capacity to 20

à la carte only

The team now consists of nine chefs

San Francisco restaurants Swan Oyster Depot & Angler are major inspirations

kitchen, one half dining room. “Rather

than getting a little bit bigger, we thought let’s get a little bit smaller and refine the product,” explains Niland.

By smaller, Niland means reducing the

number of covers to 20 and making more room for cooking in the process. In the

Food photography by Josh Niland

past, five to six chefs (all under 30), would be jostling for a place on the pans. Now,

there are defined sections and more space

— physically and mentally — for learning. “Back then, we were all fighting it out

to try to get on the stove and cook fish in a pan because when you’re a chef, when you’re a ‘real chef’, you’re cooking on

fire,” says Niland. “I don’t know, it’s this

“We need a bigger space for all the wonderful chefs we’ve got working for us. We need roles for them and we need greater opportunity for them.” – Josh Niland

ego bullsh*t.”

Now, with defined sections, there’s cross-

“I just feel like the dynamic is very

learning. “The person who’s on oysters is

unique,” he says. “Clearly, we’re not

person on the larder is now making all

revenue a week, but the whole reason

now baking bread,” says Niland. “And the

trying to fetch a larger amount of

the desserts. There’s a bit more scope and

for doing this is to bring some visibility

maturity in the roles that are required.”

and context to the work and to the level of care and attention that gets paid to

From the beginning, the restaurant was

the food and everything chefs do all

meant to showcase Australian seafood and

over the city. It’s just trying to showcase

produce, and it’s done just that. But Niland

Australian seafood.”

thinks they can do better.

The new fit out should help the team

“It’s a very different feeling in here now,”

accomplish just that. Niland may have

says Niland. “It feels really good, it feels

160,000-plus followers on Instagram, but

grown up. It’s got a really wonderful long

the chance to slice a prosciutto of tuna

marble counter in the middle of the room

in front of 20 diners is worth more in

and these beautiful leather chairs go down one side. I suppose some people refer to it as a bar … I’m trying to steer away from

some ways. Acknowledging it’s a big call, Niland

the term ‘bar’. I know it’s bar-style seating,

says he doesn’t think there’s a restaurant

the counter.”

in Australia.

but it’s a beautiful restaurant that’s set on

6 | Hospitality

like the one he’s just reopened anywhere

“It will bring some real context to the

work,” he says. “I’m excited to interact with our customers more on that level rather than just giving them a wave from afar.” ■

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

CicciaBella fires up Nic Wong is now running the kitchen at CicciaBella in Bondi after head chef Mitch Orr exited the eatery in June. The restaurant has since debuted a menu showcasing the venue’s wood-fired oven with nine new mains on offer. Additions include whole sardines with parsley and lemon alongside pork chop with salt and vinegar sauce and Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Owner Maurice Terzini has also announced he’s expanding CicciaBella, and will open a Parramatta location in partnership with Walker Corporation this September. cicciabella.com.au

Bloody Shiraz gin returns Four Pillars have announced the release of the 2020 edition of the distillery’s Bloody Shiraz gin. Mild conditions in Victoria teamed with high rainfall and small bunch weights of Shiraz grapes have resulted in an intensification of fruit flavours alongside “great spice, red berry and natural acidity”, says distiller Cameron Mackenzie. The gin is available at the Four Pillars distillery in Healesville, the new Sydney flagship location, online and at all good retailers and bars. RRP $85 for 700ml. fourpillarsgin.com

Nobu launches at Crown Sydney Chef Nobu Matsuhisa will expand his Australian

presence with a location in Sydney. Matsuhisa’s namesake restaurant, Nobu, is slated to open at Crown Sydney in December 2020. “Sydney is one of my favourite cities and the food scene has always impressed me — the quality of the produce is stand out,” says Matsuhisa. Diners can look forward to Nobu signatures including black cod miso and yellowtail jalapeño and some dishes that will be unique to the Sydney location. The final food and beverage offering will be released in the coming months. 8 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Henrietta charcoal chicken opens in Sydney Nour restaurateur Ibby Moubadder has opened Henrietta on Crown Street in Surry Hills. The 65-seat casual eatery and bar is serving up charcoal chicken, burgers, salads and sides. “I really wanted to elevate the beloved charcoal chicken that brings such a nostalgic comfort,” says Moubadder. Diners can order a whole, half or quarter charcoal chicken along with hummus, tabbouleh and other dishes such as baba ganoush with miso, pomegranate and herbs. On the drinks front, there’s a range of cocktails along with global wines and beers. Henrietta is open from 11:30am seven days a week.

Saint Peter returns

Josh and Julie Niland have been hard at work over the last few months renovating their award-winning seafood restaurant Saint Peter. The venue has undergone a renovation and now features a single counter with room for 20 diners. The couple penned a letter on the news, commenting: “This layout has long been a dream of ours, to better enable us to share our passion for Australian seafood intimately from just across the counter.” The restaurant is now trading from Wednesday to Saturday and bookings are recommended. (See In Focus, page 4.) saintpeter.com.au

Plant power Vegan With Bite

Shannon Martinez

Andrew McConnell opens Gimlet

Hardie Grant Books; $34.99

Andrew McConnell’s Trader House Restaurants has added a new venue to the

Shannon Martinez from Melbourne’s Smith &

group’s Melbourne portfolio. Gimlet at Cavendish House is described as a

Daughters and Smith & Deli is back with a new

cocktail bar and dining room inspired by historic restaurants found in London and

book. Vegan With Bite includes 80 recipes plus lists

New York. The space encompasses a luxe French marble bar, dining rooms on the

of essential ingredients for vegan cookery, chef

upper and lower levels and a private dining area. Diners can order everything

hacks and waste reduction tips. All the recipes are

from oysters and snacks to seafood salad, dry-aged duck and a signature club

made with budget-friendly ingredients and there’s

sandwich. Gimlet is open seven days from noon (9am on weekends) until late.

also a dedicated chapter on dips, condiments and

gimlet.melbourne

sauces which are described as the “essential glue”

Photography by Sharyn Cairns

of Martinez’s meals. hardiegrant.com/au August 2020 | 9

PRODUCE // Rosella

Flowers can vary in colour from white to pink or yellow

Calyxes grow up to 3 inches

Leaves are also edible

Calyxes should be picked while they are still plump

Used to make

Rosella

everything from beverages to curries

Part of the hibiscus species, Hibiscus heterophyllus is native to parts of Australia.

Origins

in fertile, well-drained soil. It’s a tropical

lobed and dark green and can be rough and

Australia is home to the native rosella,

plant and grows as an annual. Rosellas can

prickly. The red calyxes have a tart/sweet

Hibiscus heterophyllus, which is indigenous

tolerate a range of soils and climates, but

flavour profile, which lend themselves to a

to eastern and central parts of New South

are best suited to warmer environments. The

wide range of dishes.

Wales and Queensland. It has also been

native rosella plant can be propagated from

cultivated in Canberra and Melbourne. The

cuttings or by seed.

native rosella is one of 35 species of hibiscus native to Australia.

Harvest is done by hand, with pickers

Culinary uses Rosella calyxes can be used in myriad

using scissors to cut off the calyxes. There

applications from jams to cordials, syrups,

is currently no commercial production of

teas and curries. In Australia, rosella is

with Hibiscus sabdariffa, which is a species

rosella, but it is a possibility in the future if

commonly made into jams and preserves and

of hibiscus with roots in West and East

demand continues to grow.

used as a decorative element in drinks such

Hibiscus heterophyllus is often confused

Africa. The plant was reportedly introduced

as white wines and Champagne.

to Australia by a fisherman from Indonesia

Flavour profile and appearance

and is now naturalised in Australia, but is not

Plants grow up to 2m high as a rounded

flour and the green leaves can also be

native. It is grown across Asia, Latin America

shrub. The flowers can reach 10cm in

consumed. The leaves are used in curries in

and the Caribbean, with China and Thailand

diameter and are white, pink or yellow

Burma and the Philippines, soups in Vietnam

two of the biggest producers.

in colour depending on the growing

and as a green ‘vegetable’ in Senegalese

environment. The calyx is located at the base

cuisine. In the Caribbean, the sepals are

Harvest and production

of the flower and turns red as it matures,

boiled with sugar to make a beverage which

The rosella is a hardy plant that flourishes

which can take up to six months. Leaves are

is chilled before serving. ■

10 | Hospitality

The seeds can be dried and turned into

BEST PRACTICE // Cafés 2025

Forward thinking A projection of the café experience in the next five years.

WORDS Dr Adam Carr SEVEN MILES COFFEE Roasters

need to take advantage of new

15 per cent decline in dairy milk

have recently released a Cafe

manufacturers will be launching

technology to speed up their

volume. The void created by

2025 report, which forecasts

more high-end machines that

service while also maintaining

this decline is expected to be

shifts the café industry is

combine everything into one such

their quality positioning.

filled equally with black coffee

expected to see over the next

as the Eversys Cameo and the

five years.

Scanomat TopBrewer.

From automation to the

In the near future,

This new generation of super-

At the other end of the scale,

sales (7 per cent, including long

larger cafés offering the full sit-

blacks, filter and cold brew) and

down ‘slow coffee’ experience

alternative milk-based coffee sales (8 per cent).

increase of cheap coffee and

automatic machines combine

are increasingly moving into

dairy alternatives, there’s much

the kind of precision brew ratio

restaurant territory through

In terms of non-dairy milks,

to think about.

control that speciality cafés

extended trading hours, an

we expect almond to continue to

expect, along with the ability

expanded menu and everything

dominate the category (about 68

to ‘dial in’ these parameters

that goes with it.

per cent of the sales volume). The

Specialty coffee automation While automated coffee

by themselves. While some cafés will want to

Ultimately, both fast and

fastest growing non-dairy milk in

slow business models have the

cafés is oat milk. We expect it to

machines are nothing new

adopt this technology as their

potential to grow over the next

overtake soy as the second most

in places like hotels and

primary espresso machine, it’s

five years.

preferred option within the next

convenience stores, cafés

likely that many more will use it as

The real danger is for cafés

and espresso bars have

a secondary machine to compete

stuck in the middle — not fast

neutral taste and texture,

long resisted the advance of

for the ‘fast coffee’ customer.

enough to meet increasing

complementing coffee flavours

customer expectations, yet not

nearly as well as dairy milk. ■

robotic assistance.

Fast vs slow coffee

providing the right space and

PuqPress (an automated tamper)

The gap between fast, takeaway

menu to be a destination for the

and the Ubermilk (an automatic

coffee and the full sit-down

slow coffee crowd.

milk steamer), it seems baristas

experience looks certain to keep

and café owners are warming to

getting wider.

However, with devices like the

the potential of these laboursaving devices. When you consider how rising

Rise of milk alternatives

The rise of $1 self-serve

In Australian cafés, dairy milk

coffee is increasingly putting

is still by far the most popular

the pressure on smaller,

variety, with both skim and full

labour costs continue to eat into

convenience-focused cafés

cream varieties contributing

café profits and the ongoing

to lift their game. To stay

to 77 per cent of all coffees

struggle to retain quality staff,

competitive, cafés in this

served. However, across the next

the shift seems inevitable.

segment of the market will

five years we expect to see a

12 | Hospitality

five years, owing to its relatively

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COLUMN // National Indigenous Culinary Institute

Onwards and upwards The National Indigenous Culinary Institute is addressing underrepresentation of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples in Australia’s fine dining scene. WORDS Nathan Lovett

Catalina Rose Bay

FOR THE PAST eight years, the

transport services sometimes stop. Driving

The focus of the event was to engage

(NICI) has been working to rectify the

due to parking being expensive in the

ingredients and learn from our chefs

National Indigenous Culinary Institute underrepresentation of Indigenous people working in fine dining restaurants in

Australia. Through the program Skills

to and from the job may not be possible

city and the salary of an apprentice being extremely low.

It’s also a really difficult industry to work

For Success, we provide a pathway

in and other industries may appear more

employment at fine dining restaurants in

better hours and what could be perceived

for Indigenous people to enter into Sydney and Melbourne.

desirable, especially for young people, with as more relaxed work environments.

Our success has built a strong reputation in

We have had some outstanding

our program into other areas around the

we’re very proud of. In particular, our

the industry, which we are using to expand country; we’re growing our partnership

base and the amount of Indigenous people we can help secure employment through our programs.

There are some areas of the industry

that have good levels of representation, which can be attributed to geographic

locations or specific businesses having

an emphasis on Indigenous employment. However, there is a severe under

achievements over the years, which

representation — other Indigenous people don’t see it as an area of the industry they

such as Google to provide education and build a knowledge and understanding of

native foods and Indigenous cuisine with their staff. The best part of the event is

that it has led to further opportunities to engage in this area and further expose native ingredients.

chefs, working with the Australian

other Indigenous people to follow in their footsteps. This is exactly what we set out to achieve in starting the NICI. Having role models in these positions proves

Indigenous people can be successful in fine dining restaurants.

We now have alumni chefs from

Sydney and chef de partie at Rockpool Bar

fine dining is the lack of Indigenous

and lead engagement with a corporation

stereotypes and creating pathways for

restaurants in Australia. That’s what our

One of the barriers to employment in

was an outstanding event for us to hold

In 2019, we attended the Taste of West

in partner restaurants are breaking the

the program in management positions

program was established to address.

about how to use them in cooking. It

alumni chefs in management positions

representation of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples in fine dining

in conversation about the use of native

including a sous chef at Rosetta Trattoria

and Grill Sydney. We also have other chefs

Cork Food Festival with a team of four Ambassador Richard Andrews and the

Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade

along with their Irish counterparts for the

trip. As part of the two-week trip, our chefs led a large number of events, cooking with local and native ingredients, bringing the taste of native Australia to the festival.

While there, they also cooked in some of

the top restaurants Dublin and Cork have to offer.

We are very much looking forward to

in apprenticeships and qualified chefs in

the next 12 months as our organisation

pathway for other Indigenous people

new locations with new restaurant

high-end restaurants creating a successful to follow.

grows, providing our program in

partners, leading to more employment

opportunities for Indigenous people in the

can get work in.

In 2020, we held a National Reconciliation

jobs versus where the people live and the

session with Google. Two of our alumni

Nathan Lovett is a proud Yuin man and

to Google staff, who then cooked the meal

training and experience for aspiring

Other barriers include the locations of

hours, which make it difficult to travel

to and from the job — especially late at night on public transport, when public 14 | Hospitality

Week online Learn to Cook Indigenous

chefs prepped and delivered meal boxes

live with our chefs via Google Hangouts.

hospitality industry. ■

CEO of NICI, an organisation that provides Indigenous chefs. nici.org.au

DRINKS // Reopening

Then and now

Burrow Bar’s Chau Tran talks reopening and what she misses most about bartender life pre-pandemic. WORDS Madeline Woolway

Chau Tran

CHAU TRAN WAS a bartender without guests for 10 weeks in March. Burrow

Bar in Surry Hills, which Tran co-owns

to convey an element of what guests usually received at Burrow Bar.

“The personality within the venue is

— and hospo-focused mutual aid projects,

such as meals and website Hospo Threads, kept the team busy. But they were no

with Bryce McDonough, closed when

something we were quite conscious of,”

Friday 15 May when New South Wales

and it would taste the same as all the

quite social and tactile beings,” says Tran.

Bar into people’s homes. That’s just the

you have to enjoy chatting to people and

restrictions kicked in but reopened on

allowed trade to resume with 10 patrons. “We kept trading in some capacity during lockdown,” says Tran. “We ran online

cocktail classes, so we delivered cocktail kits and would log into a Zoom call on Saturday night to host the classes.”

The idea was to provide an experience;

16 | Hospitality

says Tran. “We could make a Negroni

other bars. We wanted to bring Burrow service we love and I think it’s why people gravitate to us and keep coming back. It’s

definitely that neighbourhood vibe, sort of like Cheers.”

The classes, informal virtual events —

like Friday evening drinks with regulars

replacement for the real thing.

“People who work in hospitality are

“You don’t do it because it’s just a job; creating something for someone that

makes them smile or flips their entire day or week around.”

It’s no surprise then that the first day

back was an emotional one. “Even though

it was just 10 people, seeing them literally

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DRINKS // Reopening

“We’re keeping the menu tight to make sure we’re not over-capitalising on stock onsite and any fresh products that could degrade quickly.” – Chau Tran bounce down the hallway when the doors

comfortable,” says Tran, adding that patrons have

again was special,” recounts Tran.

“We’ve always done table service, but I think the

opened because they were so excited to see us

While the venue is now well and truly back in

the swing of it, things are different in more ways than one. Limited capacity is just the beginning. Burrow Bar has gone as contactless as possible,

expectation … has definitely been a learning

curve for customers. Naturally, when you walk into a bar, you want to just walk up to the bar, have a chat and a look at the amazing range.”

The new dynamic has had benefits, though.

using QR codes for guest check-in as well as

“We used to have team members that purely

team is more careful about how much stock is

being on the floor,” says Tran. “Now everyone

menus. With fewer patrons than normal, the kept on hand.

“You just scan the QR code and it opens up to

our online menu,” says Tran. “It means we can

stood behind the bar and people that preferred has to round robin and upskill. That’s been really good.”

change the menu depending on what’s running

Tran says the initial requirement to serve food

we’re not over-capitalising on stock onsite and

was previously a drinks-heavy venue.

out. We’re keeping the menu tight to make sure any fresh products that could degrade quickly. We’re trying to streamline everything and minimise wastage.”

Guests are talked through the check-in process

once seated, with wait staff explaining how and

why personal data is stored. “We’re really upfront with how we deal with the data so they’re 18 | Hospitality

also had to acclimatise to seated table service.

with alcohol had a big effect on the bar, which “Not many places around us were open and it

was difficult to get bookings,” says Tran. “There

weren’t many places doing walk-ins, so we found people were dining in more, which was great for us when it came to keeping people in the venue. It was helpful in terms of increasing spend per head.”

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DRINKS // Reopening

“People who work in hospitality are quite social and tactile beings.” – Chau Tran Although Tran was happy to have a captive

audience, what she misses most is the

spontaneity of pre-pandemic Surry Hills.

“Bigger groups and spontaneity isn’t really a

thing we can do,” says Tran. “If you’re hanging As a result, Burrow Bar’s food offering ended

up growing as the capacity was lifted to a

maximum of 50 pax. Trade has also been more consistent since reopening. According to Tran, the general public are venturing out earlier in

the week and staying for longer. “Friday used to be our biggest night and we’d get hit for two or

three hours after 5pm before people went home or to a dinner reservation,” she says. “On nights we used to run a team of three, we now have a team of four.” 20 | Hospitality

out with a couple of friends, like under six

people, you can bar hop and maybe bounce

into a restaurant. But I miss those nights where you connect with other groups that you know are out. Seeing people checking on IG and

then saying, ‘I’m close by, let’s meet up’; that

behaviour is hard and making a night of it is a

ways away. Our bar is a connector. Regulars have become the best of friends. They have a ‘Burrow Bar OGs’ group [on Facebook]. Now, when they

see each other at the bar, they can’t sit together. It’s really hard.” ■

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ADVERTORIAL // Bourgogne Wines

Welcome to Bourgogne With 84 appellations, the Bourgogne wine region is full of hidden gems.

Photography by Aurélien Ibanez (BIVB)

FROM CHABLIS TO Mâcon, the Bourgogne

what the region’s winemakers harness to turn

wine region stretches 230 kilometres

out such an expansive range of wines from

through the countryside of northern France.

just a few varietals.

Geographically, it’s a small region, but its

Co-president of Bourgogne Wine Board’s

winemakers pack a punch by offering a

Communication Committee, Anne Moreau,

varied range of wines thanks to the careful

resides in Chablis with her husband, Louis

application of terroir.

Moreau, and their two children. “We cannot

Two hours drive from Paris, visitors will

the human factor,” says Moreau. “The fact

Bourgogne, named for the golden hue of

that we decide where to plant and why [is

its famous Chardonnays and its location

important]; humans have a long history of

at the beginning of the region. From here,

deciding how the land will allow the grapes

Bourgogne stretches southeast, through

to express the best.”

Dijon and Chalon-sur-Saône before finishing The climate is continental with cold

The orientation, for example, has a significant Whether the sun lingers longer only in the

July. Harvesting occurs mostly in September

afternoon or more in the early morning,

before October brings wet weather. Although

will make a difference. Bringing out such

it is becoming more common for harvest

characteristics is the focus of Bourgogne

to begin in August, it is still the exception.

winemakers. “We say Bourgogne is a mosaic,”

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although smaller

says Moreau. “You have very small plots

quantities of Aligoté and Gamay are planted

everywhere. That’s what makes its beauty,

(Gamay at its southern end only).

but it’s also what makes its complexity.”

Understanding terroir is the key to

With 84 different appellations, it’s

unlocking all that Bourgogne wines have to

understandable that even experienced

offer. A combination of natural elements such

sommeliers could feel overwhelmed. That

as weather, the soil and subsoil along with

diversity is also what makes it uniquely

the orientation of individual parcels, terroir is

satisfying to explore, even from afar.

22 | Hospitality

Of the 3,577 wineproducing estates in Bourgogne, only 863 sell more than 10,000 bottles a year

The region has 16 cooperative cellars and 266 wine merchants (négociants)

bearing on production and wine expression.

winters and short, dry summers that peak in

Bourgogne predominantly produces

The average size of a domaine is 6.51 hectares

forget, in terms of terroir, to take into account

arrive in Chablis — the Golden Gate of

in Mâcon.

Bourgogne produced an average of 1.45 million hectoliters per year from 2015-19

Anne Moreau

Pinot Noir is the second most planted grape, accounting for 39.5 per cent Photography by Aurélien Ibanez (BIVB)

Aligoté accounts for 6 per cent of the area under vine and 3.5 per cent is made up of Gamay, Sauvignon and others

because of the weather,” says Moreau. “We

highly expressive, delicate wines. At the

are noticing the impact of global warming,

estate Moreau runs with husband Louis, The

which means the spring tends to come soon

Domaine Louis Moreau, organic farming

Nearly every other

and is milder, so the vines grow faster. And,

practices have been in use since 1994.

bottle is exported

we are in the north of France, so we fear late

“So we can see the difference,” says

(Australia is the

frost and hailstones. Biodynamic is difficult to

Moreau. “The wines are more delicate,

twelfth market,

handle in such conditions.”

more expressive. I notice when I do tastings

based on volume)

everywhere in Bourgogne, you tend to have However, Moreau says there are programs

“Because they are planted at such a

more precise, more refined wines.”

in the region that advocate for gentler

It comes down to a combination of things,

specific place and with such specific

farming practices and fewer chemicals.

suggests Moreau. “In the past, people

sun orientation, you will get maybe more

“We have a program called Haute Valeur

tended to like strong wines, powerful,” she

fruitiness in one [wine] compared to its

Environnementale [High Environmental

says. “Nowadays, we look for more precision,

neighbour that will have more earthy notes,”

Value],” she says. “It’s really about how

delicacy and elegance. I'm sure [organic

says Moreau. “It’s really important and what

you conduct your vineyard, but also what

farming] helps, I’m convinced of that. It’s a

makes Bourgogne so beautiful.”

you do in the cellar. It’s not just trendy; it’s

very positive [progression].” ■

Bourgogne is distinguished from many other

a way of thinking and more people are

wine regions by its focus on appellation.

involved in the program. In Bourgogne, we

fascinating wine region, follow Bourgogne

“In Bordeaux, for example, you have a

also have a program called ‘Our Terroir

Wines on social media and make use of

chateau and all around you have the land,”

in our Territory’ — we try to make sure the

the organisation’s e-learning facilities on

explains Moreau. “In Bourgogne, most of the

process of farming, but also winemaking, is

the website.

domaines, or many of them at least, will have

environmentally respectful.”

Instagram: @vinsdebourgogne

To learn more about the complex and

Facebook: @Bourgognewines

the winery in the village and they will own

Using these methods, the current

plots in different places, all spread around

generation of winemakers — and those

Twitter: @Bourgognewines

the area. From each plot they can bring a

coming up behind them — are creating

Website: bourgogne-wines.com

different wine with different expressions.” So, what viticultural practices are farmers

Discover the 84 appellations of Bourgogne

in the region using to produce such varied

Bourgogne is more than famous names like Romanée Conti, Montrachet or Vougeot.

expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir?

There are also many hidden gems: affordable and elegant wines that express their origin

According to Moreau, more farmers are

in the region.

turning to organic and biodynamic methods. “I would say there is more organic than biodynamic as we have to be very careful

Moreau says the curiosity of Australian drinkers makes the market a rewarding one for the winemakers of Bourgogne. “We see things [in Australia] that we don’t see in our own market,” she says. Keen restaurateurs and sommeliers should consider looking to the region’s less explored appellations to appease this curiosity. Moreau suggests the Pinot Noirs of Irancy in the region’s north, for example, as well as the Chardonnays of Vézelay, which is a little further south. The latter was of great significance, becoming a Village Appellation in May 2017. Moreau also recommends the wines of Côte Chalonnaise, such Rully or Givry. “They tend to have a ripeness because they come from the south part of Bourgogne, but with very good elegance and strength,” she explains. Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits are discerning picks for people who tend to dream of buying wines from the leading villages, Moreau adds. “These appellations are lesser known, but are quite close to the bigger names, so they are a good entrance and provide a very good price for quality,” she says. With many exciting appellations to enjoy, the vineyards of Bourgogne is a complex, yet

Photography by Sébastien Boulard (BIVB)

rewarding area to discover.

August 2020 | 23

ADVERTORIAL // Bourgogne Wines

Chardonnay makes up 51 per cent of the area under vine in Bourgogne

PROFILE // Barrel One Coffee Roasters

24 | Hospitality

What started out as a coffee label is now a multi-venue concept with ambitious plans. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

DANIEL AGAPIOU HAS made a career

So what was the motivation behind

working in hospitality, but his work life

Barrel One and what makes it different?

jump. Agapiou started out in bars and

concept that removed the intimidation

didn’t revolve around coffee from the clubs on Sydney’s Northern Beaches

before he traded booze for beans. The

entrepreneur talks to Hospitality about how Barrel One Coffee Roasters came

about, removing the intimidation factor

from coffee and how he managed to get

his hands on Maker & Monger’s top-secret toastie recipes.

There’s no doubt the club scene is tiring.

After a few years working in bars, Daniel Agapiou decided to change things up and joined Coffee Brothers in Mona

Vale. “From there, a friend of mine was opening a café and I always wanted to

create my own label of coffee and start

roasting,” says Agapiou. In 2012, Barrel

One Coffee Roasters officially launched. “I pretty much started the label for that one café, and then it grew organically,” says Agapiou. “It was just me running everything on my own.”

The brand was soon supplying around

15 cafés on the Northern Beaches, and

focusing on the growth of the label was

very much front of mind for Agapiou. So

much so that when he was presented with the chance to open a café, he turned it

For Agapiou, it was about creating a

factor linked to coffee. “I wanted to create a no-fuss coffee label,” he says. “At the

same time, people were pushing coffee extractions and it was scaring people

he says. “Showcasing people’s coffee was another reason why I wanted to start a

label. To be able to go to the island and

see where the coffee comes from and the communities has had a huge impact on Barrel One.”

who were trying to open up venues. I

They say what will be, will be, and such

help cafés build their businesses up and

trajectory. Five years on, Agapiou’s

wanted to create a label where we could work closely with them. I felt a lot of

other labels were heavily focused on the

coffee side of things and didn’t really help their venues.”

“I wanted to create a label where we could help cafés build their businesses up and work closely with them.” — Daniel Agapiou The business owner had also been on

down. “There was an opportunity to open

a sourcing trip with Coffee Brothers to

label and I’m thankful I did,” he says.

label. “I’ve been to Tanna Island about

my own shop in 2012, but I chose the

five times and fell in love with the place,”

Vanuatu, which inspired him to create the

was the case for Barrel One’s growth

friend Samuel Graham approached him about joining the business. “When he

came on board I was able to open up the warehouse as a café and he’s a business partner now,” says Agapiou.

The friendship turned business

partnership led to the launch of Barrel One’s first café location in the label’s

Brookvale warehouse, and the venue had a springboard start thanks to the label’s

existing reputation. “It was a big help to have customers behind us who already

knew who we were,” says Agapiou. “We were a known label at the time, plus

I’m heavily focused on social media, so I made it a priority to have an impact.” Barrel One has gone on to launch a

second café location in Manly, which opened in March this year, and the

brand is now supplying around 25 cafés

with coffee. “Wholesale has been just as

important as the venues themselves,” says Agapiou. “We’d love to go interstate.”

August 2020 | 25

PROFILE // Barrel One Coffee Roasters

Barrel One Coffee Roasters

PROFILE // Barrel One Coffee Roasters

Barrel One host latte art comps where funds are donated to help the Tanna Island communities

Thinking outside the café box has been

Agapiou. “A lot of cafés decided to close

start. Not just in terms of building up

that and stayed open 10 hours regardless.

a part of Barrel One’s ethos from the

a wholesale customer base, but other

tangible avenues such as merchandise. The line started out as a way to get

It helped keep the clientele coming to the café.”

beginning for free and then people

started buying them. It helped grow the brand because I didn’t have a venue at

Northern Beaches. “We did a Mother’s Day box and we sold 100,” says Agapiou. The

from Melbourne’s Maker & Monger. Turns out Agapiou used to work with founder Anthony Femi in Sydney before he

always wanted to do,” says Agapiou.

“From now on, we are card only. It makes for a faster transaction with customers, especially when we have big lines on the weekend.”

good friend of mine since 2009, since we

has always had big dreams for the Barrel

given us the recipes for his toasties and we’re the only people in Australia that have access to them.”

Barrel One has managed to survive the worst COVID-19 has thrown at

the hospitality industry, but it’s been a

challenging few months nonetheless. “It’s been tough, but being able to trade as a

takeaway venue has helped us a lot,” says 26 | Hospitality

– Daniel Agapiou

to go cashless at the beginning of the

Predicting what the future holds right

worked in bars in Manly,” he says. “He’s

impact on Barrel One.”

Going cashless is another development

decided to move to Melbourne and dive into the cheese sector. “Tony has been a

island and see where the

occasions thanks to the positive reception.

restrictions and it’s something we’ve

toasties, which are made using recipes

“To be able to go to the

will look at continuing on for special

continued it the whole time because

Another drawcard for the cafés are the

wholesale arm

operator says it’s something the business

they’ll be sticking with. “We decided

people love all the merch we do.”

toastie menu

communities has had a huge

that point for people to come and have

a look at what we were doing. We have

The brand has a heaving

bagels, sourdough, croissants, flowers,

coffee, juice and other treats around the

and giving them to my friends at the

Maker & Monger have designed the

coffee comes from and the

“A friend of mine created the logo and

me,” says Agapiou. “I was making them

Northern Beaches

The brand also launched breakfast

boxes which saw staff deliver packs of

was doing illustrations for T-shirts for

out of the

down in our area and we decided against

the brand’s name out there, but soon

snowballed into a viable business arm.

The café has plans to expand

now is next to impossible, but Agapiou

One brand. “At the beginning, I aspired to be like Stumptown or Blue Bottle

Coffee in the States,” he says. “We have a long way to go to become as big as they are, but they are what I look towards and always have.” For now, the team

are eyeing further expansion beyond the Northern Beaches. “A big thing for us is

to move out into other areas like the CBD to get our brand out there more.” Here’s hoping it’s sooner rather than later. ■

Daniel Agapiou

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FEATURE // Staffing Dash Rumble

Retain, Maintain, Retrain Staffing has always been a major concern for the hospitality industry — but never more so than now. WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGPRAPHY Lean Timms for Pilot and Nikki To for Fink IF YOU ASKED any hospitality operator

Pilot, in the Canberra suburb of Ainslie,

Between taking orders, running delivery

the imminent closure of venues was

pivoted to takeaway when government

the floor workers were kept on as well,

what their main concern was when

announced, it’s more than likely their

answer was ‘staffing’. A solid team is what makes a restaurant. Finding the right

individuals has always been a challenge,

and no manager wants to let good people

go without a fight. But trading restrictions

and safety concerns have made losing staff a probability, not a possibility.

Hospitality speaks to Fink General

Manager Jeremy Courmadias and Pilot CoOwner Dash Rumble about how they are

steering their teams through the industry’s

darkest days and how they’re leading them

now there’s a light at the end of the tunnel.

28 | Hospitality

was one of many dine-in-only venues that restrictions forced them to pack away

chairs and tables. The restaurant closed for a week while the team regrouped,

and looking after a bottle shop, many of

even if just for a shift or two instead of the usual four.

“That’s mainly why we offered delivery

with chefs working to reinvent the menu

and did takeaway; because it meant we

wanted — needed — to do takeaway,”

“We chatted to them and said, ‘We want to

to suit the new model. “We knew we

explains Dash Rumble, who co-owns Pilot

along with partner Ross McQuinn. “We all

could keep them as well,” says Rumble. keep you busy’.”

Fink took another route, closing all

came in and had a big chat about what we

six of their venues. General Manager

whole menu.”

a big role in retaining staff who were

should offer and [the chefs] rewrote the The move paid off. Initially, Rumble

thought the head and sous chef would

be able to handle the load, but quickly had to call in three more kitchen staff.

Jeremy Courmadias says JobKeeper played eligible, while the group still managed

to retain many of their visa holders, too. Unsurprisingly, a strong communication strategy was vital.

online hospitality training

Compliance

Health & Safety

Table service

Beverage

Cellar operations

Food transport

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FEATURE // Staffing

Pilot closed for a

Fink has one

week before pivoting

venue in QLD and

to takeaway

six in NSW

Pilot kept their

Fink worked with

entire kitchen team

an academic

on to manage

to develop their

takeaway demand

COVID-Safe plan

“Communication was a really big

part of our plan during the shutdown

so the staff remained connected to the

businesses, connected to the culture and to each other,” says Courmadias. “We

quickly created communication groups,

so we could talk to particular restaurants, particularly groups in each restaurant, or

everyone. We also had a regular eDM that

pushed ourselves through that shutdown

At Pilot, selling wine and condiments

and assessed where the business was at

of house staff in touch with their service

period to ensure staff were well cared for and how we were going to reopen. We

really made sure that when we reopened, we reopened with a slightly different

model, knowing that it has to be so much more viable than it was.”

through the bottle shop format kept front skills, but everyone was still a little rusty when it came time to welcome guests

back to the venue. “During the break, we definitely retained our wine knowledge,” says Rumble. “But in terms of serving

people, we had to figure out how to do

went out to staff to ensure they knew what

Whether staff were utilised in other roles

of view, but also with each other.”

or temporarily stood down, returning to

so guests usually trust wait staff to guide

front of house staff.

on the other hand, saw the team simply

was going on from a bigger picture point While the venues had ceased trading,

there was more than enough to

communicate. Going from 450 to four staff

while offering takeaway and retail services dine-in operations required retraining for “Restaurants need momentum, they

in the space of a week meant the skeleton

need to be constantly moving; they’re an

to do.

can’t just turn them off and come back and

team had an enormous amount of work “I never realised how much there is

to do to run a restaurant group with no

restaurants,” says Courmadias. “We really

organic beast,” says Courmadias. “You

expect them to be in as good a state as you left them.”

that in a takeaway environment.”

Pilot is known for its paired-back menu,

them through the experience. Takeaway,

recording customer orders over the phone. There was less back and forth and less

knowledge transfer. “We all really missed serving people and using those skills to make someone’s night,” says Rumble.

Fink’s biggest challenge wasn’t rusty

staff when selected restaurants opened

after months of hibernation. Instead, many of the more experienced team members were pushed to unlearn processes that previously made them part of a well-

oiled machine. “Restaurant staff follow

very strict rules about the way in which particular tasks need to be done in the

order of service,” says Courmadias. “It’s a very well-documented and trained

sequence. Now, the challenge is around

changing new protocols for staff who were a little more experienced in the sequence.” And new protocols abound in the era of COVID-19 dining. The Pilot team has

eased the transition for both front and back of house staff by tweaking their model. À la carte and share-style set 30 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Staffing

menus are on the backburner for the time being, with a degustation-only sitting the new order.

“With restrictions, we can only have

a certain amount of people in; how do we make sure we’re making money or

surviving during this time?” says Rumble. “We don’t know how long this is going to go for, so we may as well make the business model work indefinitely.”

It means staff have less on their plates,

making room for new concerns, such

as keeping an eye on capacity, spacing,

sanitising and contact tracing. Digesting all the new health information has been confusing at times, but ACT Health has

been hands on and responsive to queries. Thankfully, many of the requirements — such as sanitising tables — have always been a part of staff duties at Pilot. So it

has been smooth sailing once staff have

wrapped their heads around the COVIDSafe plan and square meterage rules.

Fink began working on a plan before the 22 March shutdown, after a regular at

Otto Sydney approached the team about what they could be doing to mitigate

some of the risks around the transmission of COVID-19.

Jeremy Courmadias.

Although the conversation was put on

hold when trading ceased, Otto Sydney General Manager Graham Ackling and Courmadias began collaborating with

University of Sydney Clinical Associate Professor Eugen Molodysky three to

four weeks into the shutdown. Associate Professor Molodysky, who specialises

in preventive and primary health care medicine, helped the team work out

“Restaurants need momentum, they need to be constantly moving; they’re an organic beast.” – Jeremy Courmadias “It was about running the restaurant

by allocating particular tasks to particular

how to make their restaurants a safe

safely, but running it like a restaurant

in a way that was safe and sustainable.

“We didn’t want to go too far. We did

Fink’s COVID-Safe House Plan, COVID-

was necessary. We explored whether

for back of house and one for front of

environment. The goal was to reopen “I think the challenge is not around

reopening; it’s around staying open,”

says Courmadias. “What’s happening in

Melbourne at the moment with suburbs

closing down is exactly what we’re trying to avoid.”

There are a number of key components

and not a hospital,” says Courmadias. a lot of research around whether PPE gloves were going to be necessary

or face masks, because they really

change the whole dynamic within a restaurant space.”

The plan has affected the all-

people,” explains Courmadias.

To ensure accurate implementation of

Safe officers have been appointed; one

house on every shift. Staff received one-

on-one training so they understand their

responsibilities and can check off the tasks they need to deliver on.

to the COVID-Safe House Plans being

important order of service, with staff

It’s a complicated world, but for both Pilot

are guided by an overarching principle:

A waiter who runs food won’t collect

staff to maintaining their skill sets and

implemented at Fink venues, all of which assume everyone has COVID-19 in an asymptomatic form.

now designated pre- or post-guest tasks. used tableware, for example. “That’s

about mitigating cross-contamination

and Fink, one thing is clear: from retaining retraining them for work in the COVID era, communication is a must. ■

August 2020 | 31

FEATURE // Cleaning

Spick and span As patrons return to venues, the highest levels of cleanliness will go a long way to ensure peace of mind for customers and staff.

DINING RESTRICTIONS HAVE eased across most

QR codes and entry conditions

states, but venues are now

All venues (except Western Australia at the time of publication) across the country are

in the spotlight when it

required to obtain customer contact details when they dine in at an establishment.

comes to creating spaces

Print out clear signage at the entry point of your venue that instructs customers to

that are safe for customers

scan the code and fill out the required fields. Staff should also ask customers to

and staff. While most

confirm they have ‘signed in’ before they are seated.

venues have always had

Venues should also display terms of entry, which requests customers with symptoms

strict hygiene procedures in

linked to COVID-19 such as a sore throat, fever, etc, to refrain from dining and seek

place, customers are more

medical attention.

discerning than ever and are expecting to see operators and staff step up to the plate

Pick the right menus

— which means more than

Bound menus look great, but are near impossible to disinfect. While laminated menus

just offering sanitiser.

don’t have the same effect, they are easy to clean between uses and minimise

From displaying QR codes

wastage if you’re keen to avoid printing out multiple copies. A blackboard offers an

upon entry to taking away

alternative option to write out your menu — just make sure it’s in a space where all

water stations and cutlery

customers can view it.

holders, there are a number

Better yet, invest in technology to take your menu virtual. Customers can scan a QR

of considerations to think

code displayed on the table and order without wait staff should your tech of choice

about as the industry moves

permit the option.

into the coming months. 32 | Hospitality

SEC RE THE NEW NORMAL IN HYGIENE Lift your standards. Book a free hygiene audit today to ensure the health and safety of your staff and guests. Download our Food Service toolkit at tork.com.au/newnormal

FEATURE // Cleaning

Sanitise tables and chairs between sittings

Remove communal-use items

This one might seem obvious, but the

communal sauce bottles should be

entire area (tables and chairs) should

removed for the time being. While you

be disinfected when customers are

might need to invest in some more

finished. After all the plates and glasses

water bottles to cater to all tables,

are cleared, staff need to wipe down

it also removes the risk of customer

all surfaces patrons have been in

contamination. It’s a good idea to pre-

contact with.

roll cutlery in serviettes which can be

Door handles, EFTPOS machines,

Water stations, cutlery holders and

placed on tables once customers order;

POS, counters and any other high-

should the option suit your venue. As for

touchpoint areas should also be

condiments, ask the customer if they

regularly disinfected.

require any. If they say yes, it’s a job for the kitchen.

Hand sanitiser

Dishwashing

While most customers will have their

Venues should ensure all plates,

own sanitiser, it’s a good idea to have

cups, glasses, cutlery and any other

plenty around the venue to encourage

dishwasher-safe items used by

good hand hygiene. A container at the

customers are cleaned in a dishwasher

entry, pay station and even on tables

running on the highest-possible

ensures easy access for all patrons.

temperature. If your venue does not

Staff should also have dedicated

have a dishwasher, items should be

sanitiser in change rooms, at the

washed in hot water with an anti-

counters and any other workspaces.

bacterial solution to ensure germs are killed.

Appointed cleaning ‘officers’

Training

Wait staff are incredibly busy, and extra

Ensure staff understand all new

cleaning duties are a lot to take on.

procedures your venue is implementing

Appointing dedicated employees to

or emphasising. While staff may have

complete the above jobs ensures your

properly cleaned tables a few times a

venue is able to run efficiently. All staff

day before the pandemic, disinfecting

will know exactly what they need to do

all surfaces with each customer is a

without worrying they may have missed

change for some venues. Ensure all

something. It’s a good idea to have

cleaning products are clearly labelled

different staff members take on these

and are easily accessible for staff so

jobs so the entire team is aware of the

they can quickly turn over tables and get

processes.

the next customers in. Businesses need to have a COVID-19 plan, and these points should all be included and clearly communicated to staff to ensure your venue is as COVID-safe as possible.

34 | Hospitality

ADVERTORIAL // Australian Pork

Star of the show 15 years on, PorkStar and the professionals the program celebrates are stronger than ever. PorkStar has connected chefs and producers in a number of ways, including providing opportunities for chefs to visit pig farms

IT’S HARD TO believe PorkStar

the country, but this hasn’t

pork cut, plus nose-to-tail, and

was founded 15 years ago. The

always been the case, which was

they’ve taken PorkStar beyond

influencer program captured the

program showcases chefs and

one of the primary motivators for

our wildest expectations.”

imagination of Aussie chefs,”

foodservice professionals who

the launch of PorkStar.

love the industry and all things

“Globally, pork was a menu

Australian pork producers

“Our provocative chef

says Edwards. “Many of these

are at the heart of the program,

chefs are now household names,

pork. More than 75 hospitality

staple, but Australian chefs

with chefs including Christine

and they’re truly passionate

figures have featured in PorkStar

needed to fall back in love with

Manfield, Dan Hong, Colin

about Aussie pork.”

campaigns since 2005, with the

pork and get consumers excited

Fassnidge and Luke Nguyen

Pork is now the nation’s

program reaching 40,000 chefs

about it,” says Mitch Edwards,

showing the public and the

second most popular protein

and counting.

Australian Pork’s marketing

industry just how versatile the

and continues to appear on

Pork is now one of the most

manager. “And they did. We’ve

protein is through the creation of

more plates, at home and in

popular options on menus across

seen chefs tackle every Aussie

pork-centric dishes.

restaurants. “PorkStar has been a great program for our pork producers, as it’s become a community for pork-loving hospitality professionals across the nation,” says Edwards. “I think it’s captured their imagination because it gave them permission to have fun, challenge one another and celebrate their creativity.” 15 years on, PorkStar is continuing to evolve, but like all hospitality professionals, this year forced some plans to change. “We had already been talking to top chefs and industry stars to check in and find out their thoughts on PorkStar,” says

The first ever PorkStar campaign shot, featuring Luke Nguyen

Edwards. “2020 has been a tough year for the industry, and like everyone, we’ve changed our plans. However, as we

36 | Hospitality

ADVERTORIAL // Australian Pork

Giovanni Pilu, Ian Curley, Bethany Finn, Nino Zoccali, Lauren Murdoch, Stephen Clarke and Brad Jolly in the 2009 campaign

Louis Tikaram’s sweet and sour pork The Stanley chef’s take on a classic dish.

4. Add vinegar, stir to combine and season and season with salt. 5. Strain sauce and discard solids.

Dish ingredients 2 cups corn starch

Dish method

1 cup water

1. Heat the cooking oil to 180 degrees

1L cooking oil (canola) 250g diced pork loin 50g diced red capsicum 50g diced green capsicum 50g diced pineapple 50g diced onion 250ml sweet and sour sauce (below)

Celsius in a medium saucepan. 2. In a mixing bowl, add one cup of corn starch and water and whisk until there are no lumps. 3. Keep the remaining corn starch in a small mixing bowl and set aside. 4. Add the diced pork loin to the corn starch slurry and mix until completely coated.

PorkStar is celebrating 15 years in 2020, with chef Louis Tikaram among those to be featured

Sweet and sour sauce ingredients

Roll in remaining one cup of dry corn

250g caster sugar

starch so each piece is dusted. Shake off

250g white vinegar

any excess and gently lower into the hot

250ml water

oil and cook for three minutes until golden

250g tomato ketchup

brown, stirring occasionally so the meat

25g Worcestershire 100g white onion offcuts

doesn’t stick together. 5. Remove pieces from the oil with a slotted

look forward, PorkStar will continue to

100g diced tomato

celebrate chefs and support emerging

50g red capsicum offcuts

talent, with a real grass roots focus on

100g pineapple offcuts

capsicum and onions on a medium heat

their connection with the producers of

1tsp salt

for one minute then add pineapple and

Aussie pork.” PorkStar is firmly focused on promoting local producers and working closely with chefs and hospitality professionals over the coming years. The program has big plans to offer new educational opportunities, spotlight emerging talent and work with leading

spoon and let cool on absorbent paper. 6. In a wok or a large fry pan, sauté

continue to cook for another minute.

Sauce method 1. Sweat onion, capsicum, tomato and pineapple. 2. Add sugar and dissolve the sugar in the liquid at the bottom of the wok. 3. Add water, Worcestershire and ketchup and cook for 10 minutes.

7. Add the cooked pork then follow with the sweet and sour sauce and continue to stir or toss for two minutes to completely cook and glaze the pork. Reduce the sauce until a sticky consistency is achieved. 8. Serve immediately with steamed rice or as part of a shared meal.

chefs to put more pork on Aussie forks. ■ August 2020 | 37

FEATURE // Menu development

Under construction Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more to post-COVID dining than new health and safety protocols; the pandemic has had a lasting effect on menu development, too. WORDS Madeline Woolway

Felix by Merivale

38 | Hospitality

THE FUTURE OF FOOD IS NOW ON THE MENU

V2 LOOKS, COOKS AND TASTES JUST LIKE MEAT. Try it in any cuisine as a delicious plant-based alternative to beef. Visit v2food.com/foodservice to find out more

FEATURE // Menu development

CHEFS KICKED INTO gear when diners were told to stay home, designing new

menus to help capitalise on at-home dining or reopen with a bang.

Hospitality looks at three different cases

of menu development.

The at-home model With more than 70 venues across Sydney, Merivale didn’t have an easy task on its

hands when it came to adaptation. Yet, the group found a way, developing Merivale at Home. The offering made the most of the group’s diverse stable of restaurants and

pubs, with chefs from some of the highestprofile venues coming together under one roof.

Executive Chef Jordan Toft led the

program, working with the likes of

Danielle Alvarez from Fred’s, Mr Wong’s Dan Hong, Mike Eggert from Totti’s and

Jimmy’s Falafel's Simon Zalloua to develop a wide range of menus diners could finish off at home.

“There was a week or two to devise

options and then we had to mobilise

Bert's by Merivale

super quickly or it could have fallen over,” says Toft.

The idea for Merivale at Home was

born not just out of financial necessity, but also a need to maintain relevance and the standard of service Merivale is known for. For Toft, the key question was: “How can we give diners an experience they would

normally go out for in their home during this period?”

“We wanted people to create their own experiences that had a feeling of [what] we provide in the bricks and mortar establishment.” – Jordan Toft

Some venues, such as Totti’s, also offered more traditional takeaway, but for the

most part, Merivale relied on its at-home

in a hot pan in the oven for 18 minutes.

While a lot of energy went into different

was decided each venue should create

[after reopening] who said he cooked it

to the right point — just as much was put

offering throughout the lockdown. It

a set menu that referenced its identity. Some menus require more cooking at

home, while others are brought closer to

completion in the commercial kitchen. Mr

I actually saw someone in the restaurant for his family and in-laws following the

instructions and it made him look really good — that made me feel good.”

The experience is exactly what the team

Wong’s menu, for example, needs more

set out to create. “We wanted people to

from Bert’s Bar & Brasserie only needs to

feeling of [what] we provide in the bricks

time in the pan at home, while a kilo steak be finished off in the oven.

“People mess up a steak like that a lot at

create their own experiences that had a and mortar establishment,” says Toft. It also allowed more flexibility for

home and wonder why they can’t do it like

diners, who could order a one-off box

work out a cheffy way to prepare it. I took

worth of meals.

a restaurant,” explains Toft. “So I had to

it to a point where they just need to put it 40 | Hospitality

for special occasions or order five nights’

technical aspects — like getting the steak

into communicating with guests. The aim was to make sure diners got what they

were expecting and had the information they needed to put the dishes together. To that end, a lot of effort went into

instructions and video tutorials, as well as packaging, delivery and presentation. Challenges arose along the way, of

course. According to Toft, it was initially difficult to find environmentally friendly packaging that did the job, with many suppliers also in lockdown and state

borders closed. “We pushed on and got

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FEATURE // Menu development

“The more questions you ask, the more information you can extract out of these people that know about produce and are genuinely interested in investing in you.” – Louis Tikaram

initiatives such as PorkStar helping along the way. “They connect people,” says

Tikaram. “Like, here’s a great chef [and] here’s a great supplier who would get

along. Without programs like PorkStar, there wouldn’t be much of a stepping

stone for chefs to really get out there and meet these producers, and that’s where it all starts from. It really has that domino

effect, getting like-minded people in the

same room and watching that relationship

better with each week,” he says.

As the restaurant prepared for reopening,

been a welcome one. “With hindsight,

“That’s the thing I love to do,” he says. “I

Tikaram let the produce guide Stanley’s

and family farms that are just on the

line with harvests. The aim is to use what’s

On a positive note, the challenge has

there were considerations we could have probably done better,” says Toft. “But we made the best of the situation we had when it came to the food.”

The new menu Stanley in Brisbane reopened at the start of July after a three-month hiatus. While the Cantonese menu could have been altered

Tikaram started visiting farms again.

started to discover so many small farms outskirts of Brisbane growing amazing produce. It could have just been a few

bunches of this or a plot of that, but it was leaning towards South-East Asian flavours

like morning glory, betel leaf and beautiful young turmeric.”

Farmers have possibly become the major

blossom.”

new menu, with produce swapped out in available locally, instead of being driven

by the need to stick within the boundaries of a specific cuisine. “I don’t want to

say I can’t use it because it’s not strictly Cantonese,” says Tikaram. “I should be

using [produce] because it’s grown right

there; it was picked this morning. And now

to suit a takeaway model, the owners were

source of inspiration for Tikaram. Thanks

chose to batten down the hatches and take

connections, the well is ever-flowing.

Tikaram’s heritage, too. “My grandmother’s

constantly. “The more questions you ask,

Fijian Indian, so we would not necessarily

focused on employee safety. So, the team

advantage of schemes such as JobKeeper. When the restaurant, located in

the Howard Smith Wharves precinct,

welcomed diners back, it did so with a new menu; one chef Louis Tikaram describes as a more flexible, modern Asian take.

Tikaram says he was encouraged to go

back to his family home in Mullumbimby

on the New South Wales North Coast, but

instead chose to stay in Brisbane and man the kitchen alone. Even without a dining

room full of guests, the chef found plenty to do. “The owners of the restaurant said they wanted me to stay safe [too],” says Tikaram. “And, honestly, I said to them,

‘I’m a chef and I’ve always been a chef, this is all I know’.”

Tikaram spent his time at Stanley

cleaning, organising and developing new dishes. He talked to suppliers, looked for new ingredients and found new flavour

combinations. “I just came to work every single day and was there by myself,” he

says. “I would do a bit of tidying up and

paperwork, all my standard recipe cards

and costings, and then work in the kitchen, talking to suppliers and letting them know how we’re going.”

42 | Hospitality

to a healthy dose of curiosity and industry Tikaram tells young cooks to ask questions the more information you can extract out of these people that know about produce and are genuinely interested in investing in you,” he says.

The questions snowball, leading from

one producer to the next, with industry

Mr. Wong by Merivale

it can be on the plate in the evening.” The new menu paints a picture of

Fijian and Chinese and my grandfather’s

only ever eat Indian or Fijian or Chinese,

it would always be hints and elements of each cuisine,” he explains.

Unsurprisingly, the process Tikaram

follows to develop a new dish is flexible. Sometimes he finds inspiration in a new

For Chef Louis Tikaram, joy is the serenity of being first in the kitchen, while inspiration is quality ingredients. Confidence comes from the balance between the producer, the product, the palate and his creativity. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s driven, and finds his reward in teaching younger chefs and gaining the gratitude of diners. Louis Tikaram is a passionate craftsman. He is a PorkStar.

porkstar.com.au

FEATURE // Menu development

everyone,” says Spyridis. “People got

frustrated, but we had to stay open.”

Things are more or less back to normal

for the venue now, at least in terms of

the number of diners coming through the doors each day. “People are spreading

their time rather than coming in a rush,” says Spyridis. “We’re constant all day

rather than busy at certain hours because

we can only sit half a restaurant with one person per 4sqm.”

While the menu hasn’t had to change to

reflect the pandemic, there was a limited

new addition — vegan mince. Thankfully, redeveloping the local favourite’s

Bolognese to suit a meat analogue didn’t

add to the stress of COVID-19 restrictions. “We thought it wasn’t going to work out because sometimes [vegan] minces are really soft and soggy, but v2food’s one is awesome,” says Spyridis. “We used

our own recipe and it actually worked straight away.”

The special, which ran for a couple

of weeks through Deliveroo, was a hit

with diners despite a limited marketing push. “People who tried it, loved it,”

says Spyridis. “But we would probably

get loads more people had we marketed it more.”

So, will it stick around? “My husband and dad are old school and they don’t make

any changes,” says Spyridis. “We’re going great the way we are, but you’ve got to move forward. You’ve got to do a few Jimmy's by Merivale

ingredient and works to build the rest of

two beef dishes, so pork could make for

the menu fits together as a whole. He’s also

development is about discovery for the

the plate around it. Then, there’s the way looking to South-East Asia for guidance. “Dishes should be really balanced in

a good protein choice. Ultimately, menu chef — it’s a choose your own adventure.

texture, flavour and complexity, but when

The meat analogue

balanced,” Tikaram says.

was perfectly placed to capitalise on

you look at a menu, it should also be very A balanced menu will guide patrons

through the dining experience. If two

crunchy dishes and two soups are locked

in, Tikaram will next look to starches, for

example. Maybe there’s already a rice dish on the menu, which means noodles might be called for. Perhaps there are already 44 | Hospitality

different things.”

Again, recipe development was less

challenging than logistics and marketing. “I think if we could get someone to do marketing, we’d be able to do it

consistently,” says Spyridis. “Even though we donate food, we don’t want to prep food that’s going to be wasted.”

Costing the dish was another hurdle,

The Italian Bowl in Sydney’s Newtown

with vegan alternatives higher priced than

increased takeaway and delivery demand.

don’t see that,” says Spyridis. “They don’t

While reopening with a limit of 10 diners in-venue at a time was challenging, co-

owner Jenny Spyridis says it wasn’t the menu causing problems.

“It was a nightmare because we couldn’t

have a line outside and you couldn’t seat

meat. “It costs more money, but people want to pay more money, so we kept it

the same. But say we put $2 extra on that

because the vegan mince is dearer, people will just go on social media and one bad

review can take my life away for a whole day. But developing the recipe is easy.” ■

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August 2020 | 45

FEATURE // Bookings

Lock it in The industry is entering a new era — bookings or bust. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

IT’S SAFE TO say the last decade has been

Hartsyard used to run two 65-person

anchored by casualisation — not just in the

sittings a night. Now, they’re limited to

customers dine. While bookings are a must

located on a stretch of road that bustled

style of food offered at venues, but how at certain locations, some never offered the option to secure a table in advance,

the 4sqm rule. The Enmore restaurant is seven days a week pre-pandemic, but

instead relying on foot traffic and a stellar reputation. However, the industry is now navigating unchartered territory, and the casual model is risky while restrictions remain in place.

The Grounds of Alexandria and Hartsyard in Sydney are two venues that have

switched up their bookings to keep the wheels turning. Hospitality speaks to

Neil Burke and Jarrod Walsh about the

platforms they’re relying on, the benefits of bookings and how COVID-19 has changed the way their respective businesses will operate in the foreseeable future. 46 | Hospitality

owners Jarrod Walsh and Dorothy Lee saw foot traffic screech to a halt when restrictions kicked in.

While Hartsyard leaned towards

bookings pre-COVID, the venue still had

customers who would drop in for a drink or a snack. “Before, it was 80 per cent

“It’s easier to cost out a roster and ordering when you know how many people are coming ahead of the game.” – Neil Burke

bookings, 20 per cent walk-ins,” says

Walsh. “Now, it’s 100 per cent bookings.”

The chef says some people have attempted to get a table during restrictions, however availabilities have been rare with social

distancing measures in place. “We’ve had

a lot of guests come in without a booking, which makes it very hard because we’re already at capacity and people don’t understand the rules,” says Walsh.

The Grounds of Alexandria is certainly

a destination for Sydneysiders, with

the venue typically hosting thousands

of customers every week. Diners could

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FEATURE // Bookings Customers showing up for bookings is

one thing, but checking in patrons has become a pivotal part of the dining

experience. Check-in requirements vary around the country, but in most states,

dining in is conditional upon providing contact details. Many venues display

QR codes on menus or host stands for diners to scan before they commence

their meal. Hartsyard are using Guest HQ as their platform of choice. “Customers previously book select areas of The

Grounds such as The Potting Shed and The Café depending on numbers, however the

business model primarily revolved around walk-ins, to the tune of 70-80 per cent

a home delivery

at $88 per

service

person

would be waiting up to three hours instead of the usual hour.”

The venue made the call to reopen

when diner numbers were increased to

50 and called on customers to pre-book. “It’s difficult to guarantee everyone a

table,” says Burke. “Even with 50 covers,

Hartsyard have

account for 60 per

been staggering

cent of customers

bookings to work

at The Grounds

with diner numbers

48 | Hospitality

While the process is relatively

have chosen to let go of their bookings because you have to turn them away,”

says Walsh. “That’s the biggest challenge right now… managing the check-in

and making sure customers understand how important it is, especially for us

if something happens; we’re done for.

We had a table recently that refused to do it and we had to say, ‘I’m sorry, you can’t dine’.”

The Grounds are displaying a QR code,

we encouraged people to book. It’s been

but have also started working with Mr

we are encouraging them not to just turn

eliminate some staffing to a certain

difficult to manage people-on site because Bookings now

if something happens.”

over privacy concerns. “It gets hard

or the wait list was too extreme, people menu is priced

information to the Department of Health

were so many people wanting to come,”

“If we flooded it with too many bookings Hartsyard’s set

get their details, but we can send the

straightforward, Walsh says some diners

says Neil Burke, group general manager.

The Grounds

good to go,” says Walsh. “We don’t

in the central dining area. “We only took large party bookings just because there

recently launched

show staff the check in and they’re

up, but the benefit for us is that we have a low turn time on the tables, around an hour, so the wait is quick.”

Yum to trial mobile ordering. “It will

degree, but allow people to order in their own time and get a second drink without

having to flag down a waiter,” says Burke.

FEATURE // Bookings

“With the set menu, we know how many people we need to prep for and it keeps the costs more in line than a normal à la carte menu.” – Jarrod Walsh Knowing your numbers is one of the

wandering off. We can send them a text

Operators are able to streamline ordering,

they’ve got 15 minutes.”

core benefits that comes from bookings. kitchen processes and determine how

and let them know the table is ready and The platform also sends customers a

many staff they will need to run service.

survey after dining to request feedback.

dine-in recommenced, and Walsh says it’s

you can get genuine feedback and monitor

Hartsyard opted to serve a set menu when worked well. “We had a skeleton team, so we didn’t want to go too hard having all

“Customers can rate their experience, so complaints,” says Burke.

Walsh says the team finds OpenTable

these different dishes like before because

relatively customisable, with the platform

says. “With the set menu, we know how

restaurant owners to use throughout the

we didn’t know what would happen,” he many people we need to prep for and it

keeps the costs more in line than a normal à la carte menu. We’re going to keep the

set menu going and do some share plates

increasing the number of features for

pandemic if they choose. “We’ve been

taking credit card details for groups of

six and above,” says the chef. “I think it’s

at the bar.”

Along with the Mr Yum trial, The

Grounds has cut down their usual offering, which Burke says has allowed the venue to keep an eye on staffing costs and

production. “It’s easier to cost out a roster and ordering when you know how many people are coming ahead of the game.

Previously, we didn’t need that guarantee

because we knew it was going to be busy.” Both Hartsyard and The Grounds are

currently using OpenTable for bookings. Burke says there are a number of useful features integrated into the platform

including the ability to send reminders to customers. “The text messages are

really handy, especially when people go 50 | Hospitality

Neil Burke (left)

going to change the way people dine and they are going to have a bit more respect for the venue.”

The last few months have been tough,

but operators are remaining positive as restrictions continue to lift. Burke and Walsh both agree diners are happy to

be out and enjoying the experience of

dining once again. “People are happy to

be out of the house and doing something

different instead of cooking for themselves or ordering takeaway,” says Walsh. Burke agrees, and says consumers are just

grateful to have some normality in their

lives once again. “I was conscious people

wouldn’t want to spend, but I’m not seeing that at all,” says Burke. “People are happy

to be eating and are enjoying being served [but] it’s going to be a long time before

we get back to where we were pre-COVID. For now, we will continue taking more bookings and guaranteeing tables.” ■

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VIDEO // Behind the scenes

E’cco Bistro’s

fine apple tart An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

PHILIP JOHNSON HAS been

making fine apple tart since he first opened E’cco Bistro in Brisbane 25 years ago, so he knows how to get it right. The end result is a golden, satisfying, homely dessert that’s perfect for dine-in and takeaway menus.

Ingredients Butter puff pastry Apples Butter Sugar Icing sugar Caramel Mascarpone

Method 1. Cut saucer-sized rings out of cold pastry. Don’t dock the pastry, otherwise it won’t rise. 2. Peel and core apples before slicing thinly on a mandolin. 3. Layer the apples in a circular pattern on top of the pastry. In between each layer, sprinkle a pinch of sugar. 4. Top the apples with a tablespoon of butter. 5. Place the tarts in an oven for 10 minutes at 220 degrees Celsius, then flip the tarts over to cook for 10 minutes at 200 degrees Celsius. 6. Dust generously with sugar and top with a drizzle of caramel. Serve with a dollop of mascarpone. Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

52 | Hospitality

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54 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Rosheen Kaul

Rosheen Kaul The Melbourne-based chef on the comfort of the home kitchen and the joy of putting together The Isol(Asian) Cookbook during lockdown.

I WAS IN lockdown, I had lost my second

I had crossed paths with Jo [illustrator

what weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d intended to be a lo-fi zine

my days in the kitchen at home. Instagram

mutual friends from the Fat Duck and

elegant, with far more work put into

job in as many months, and I was spending posts of my daily cooking antics [resulted in] my inbox bursting with requests for

recipes. The requests were curiously for

Chinese dishes; some traditional, some not

so much. The recipe requests and the many questions that followed made me realise that the lack of Asian cooking on social

media was simply due to intimidation and lack of instruction. 56 | Hospitality

Joanna Hu] last year, as we shared

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. I had been

waiting for the opportunity to collaborate

with her as I was so impressed by her raw

talent. The initial idea [for The Isol(Asian) Cookbook] was for us to collaborate on a zine with Chinese-ish recipes, ingredient indexes and some prose, all punctuated with Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold, colourful illustrations. As the project neared completion,

was developing into something more it than we had planned. I spent hours

testing, developing and writing, making sure every recipe had a specific purpose

and watertight instructions for even the most amateur cook. Jo was staying up

nights illustrating and handwriting all of my words (that I kept re-writing), and

our little project ended up being so much more than we intended it to be. It turned

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Rosheen Kaul Illustrations by Joanna Hu

into an instructional manual for the

after much back and forth, Jo managed

that make it great — defined individual

to Chinese cooking for those who had

life through her beautiful illustrations.

seasoning, the distinctive smoky flavour

isolated home cook and an introduction always been curious, but never had the time.

The book wasn’t intended to be

anything more than a really engaging,

visually appealing creative expression. It was never meant to be a cookbook per se, as I hadn’t thought myself an

accomplished enough chef to be writing

cookbooks just yet. The beautiful thing is

that the recipes are joyously simple, some original, some respectfully traditional. In insolation, the act of cooking food

to capture our vision and bring it to

The book was conceived, written (and

re-written), photographed, hand-written and illustrated in 14 days. Jo and I

never dreamed the book would have

notes on my phone and thousands of

of the charm is its imperfect nature, and

had we approached the project intending to capture an international audience, we would probably never have finished it. The way I cook at home — and the

on a sound respect for a cuisine, the

It was difficult initially to align the

creative direction for the book. Eventually, 58 | Hospitality

elevates it to perfection.

more time refining it. But of course, part

personal experiences that punctuated my comfort of my kitchen at home.

the slight rawness of the spring onion —

I have endless notebooks filled with

would most certainly have spent a bit

style in which the book is written — is

writing — were to share with readers the

of the wok, evenly dispersed fluffy eggs,

the response it did. Had we known, we

was solace for many people, and the

dishes that I chose to include — and the

rice grains, a restrained hand with

unintelligible scribbles, a few hundred screenshots and photos of various food-

related things. I record all of the cool and unusual techniques, styles, ingredients

and aesthetics that I see, and build visual inspiration boards from them later.

I had never written any recipes down

very carefree. However, it is also based

until the lockdown, when it came to my

dish, and understanding the function of

had an audience on social media. Writing

its components. You can follow the fried

rice recipe word for word and produce a perfectly delicious rendition. However,

taking the time to understand the features

attention that my daily kitchen activities actually helped me remember why I

wanted to become a chef in the first place, because a love for cooking is so easily lost in a professional kitchen. ■

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