TWENTY SEVEN STEPS
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2018 WINNERS
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WEST COAST EXPERTISE
www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz OCTOBER 2018 Vol.5 No.9
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Editorial
OCTOBER 2018 Vol. 5 No. 9
EXCELLENCE SOUTHERN STYLE It isn’t every day a fish and chip shop wins a major national award and no-one could be more amazed than the owner of Erik’s Fish & Chips proprietor Anna Arndt. Tucked behind an art gallery in a Queenstown side-street and just metres from upmarket Botswana Butchery, this modestly fitted out denizen of tasty deep fried fish has won, not one, but two major awards in the 2018 Hospitality New Zealand Excellence Awards! In part one of our two part review of the Hospitality New Zealand conference we highlight the finalists and winners of this prestigious event. This month we also talk to the General Manager of the Grand Millennium hotel in Auckland about the challenges of getting good room yields and the dynamic pricing model required to attract expectant and demanding guests in today’s marketplace. We also chat to executive chef Wallace Mau at the Hilton’s FISH restaurant about his career to date and the challenges behind providing a predominantly seafood based menu. And we head to the West Coast of the South Island to interview two award winning employees of a boutique retreat to see what makes them successful!
Kimberley Dixon kdixon@ intermedianz.co.nz 0274 505 502
Kimberley Dixon
PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand ph: 021 361 136 MANAGING DIRECTOR - PUBLISHER Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Paul Wootton The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd, Australia www.intermedia.com.au EDITOR - HOSPITALITY Business Kimberley Dixon kdixon@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 0274 505 502 PUBLISHING ASSISTANT Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz SALES DIRECTOR Wendy Steele wsteele@intermedianz.co.nz ph: 021 300 473 SALES MANAGER - THE SHOUT Sam Wood swood@intermedianz.co.nz 021 256 6351 CONTRIBUTORS Jes Magill, Michael Hooper, Sue Fea GRAPHIC DESIGNER Adrian Tipper – atipper@intermedia.com.au HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock – cblacklock@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper – jacqui@intermedia.com.au SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES Eclypse Lee – Publishing Assistant elee@intermedianz.co.nz PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY
TABLE MANNERS
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NESTLÉ TOQUE D'OR
KEY FREE HOTEL
Contents •
REGULARS
18
06 NEWS
A taste of what’s happening in hospitality
www.hospitalitybusiness.co.nz OCTOBER 2018 Vol.5 No.9
10 IN SEASON
Seasonal meat, fresh produce and seafood.
11 NEW OPENINGS
Restaurateurs commit to our industry
16 PROFILES
Rotorua icon & an Australian Master Chef
FEATURES 22 AUCKLAND’S BURGEONING HOTEL SECTOR
KNORR Jus
New landscapes reflect gowth
Gluten Free, perfect taste without compromise.
26 CAFÉ BUSINESS
John Gordon takes 6th place at World Championships
32 EVENTS
Fine Food New Zealand 2018 attracts key delegates
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NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST HOSPITALITY AUDIENCE
4 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
ON THE COVER:
UNILEVER FOOD SOLUTIONS Top selling steak dishes deserve a quality sauce. Knorr Jus delivers a premium steak experience all diners will love. It’s a perfect classic Jus recipe – which is Gluten Free and has a glossy consistency with a rich meaty taste and premium roasted and caramelised notes. Our recipe on the cover is the Grain Fed New York, Shimeji Mushroom Sauce. With a wide variety of mushrooms available to chefs, why not explore different kinds to add to your mushroom sauce. Shimeji mushroom is great for its uniqueness and subtle flavour and works beautifully with the jus. Find this recipe and more on www.ufs.com
DISCLAIMER This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by New Zealand and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2018 - The Intermedia Group Ltd ISSN 2382-1892
Contents REGULARS
28
06 NEWS Students display expertise
10 I N SEASON From seafood to asparagus… all our best seasonal produce on display
20 N EW OPENING Luxury hotel opens in Cambridge
FEATURES 12 HOSPITALITY NEW ZEALAND 2018 awards review
21 SEALICIOUSNESS Of seafood delights and “FISH”
24 H OTEL MANAGEMENT Ken Orr General Manager talks about the Grand Millenium
26 W EST COAST WINNERS Franz Joseph resort’s top duo.
12 10 21
Hospitality BUSINESS | October 2018 | 5
NEWS
2018 National Secondary Schools Culinary Championship winners.
Burnside High wins Grand Final
The knives were out…as were the smoking machines, sous vide ovens, vacuum sealers and a vast array of pots, pans, jugs and plates. Sixteen of the most talented hospitality students in New Zealand took on the ultimate food battle today in South Auckland – the chance to win the coveted title of 2018’s National Secondary Schools Culinary Challenge, and to win one of two scholarships with City & Guilds. Maggie Carroll and Lisa Khorozova, of Burnside High School in Christchurch were declared the winners (pictured top right) of the competition, with their dishes: Entrée: Tomato Tart with Fresh Tomato & Basil Salad, Manuka Smoke Tomato Foam and Goats Cheese, accompanied by a Rich Tomato Sauce Main: Chicken Breast with Broad Bean Farce on Truffle Potato Puree with Petite Crumbed Sausage, Seasonal Vegetables with Jus and Tarragon Cream Sauce “We really didn’t think we’d win – we had to rush the plating at the end!” says Liza. “We hoped for a silver medal, but to win is amazing.” “Our flavours worked well together though, and we get on as a team – even when we were stressed, we weren’t stressed at each other,” agrees Maggie. “Our teacher told us to be fast Ferraris – and it obviously worked!” All the winners were chosen by a panel of six judges: Mark Wylie (Head Judge and National Account Sales Manager at Southern Hospitality Ltd), Ben Bayly (Co-owner/Chef, The Grounds, Henderson), Gareth Stewart (Executive Chef, Nourish Group), Jeremy Schmidt (Owner/Chef, The Officers Mess), Craig Lucas (Chef Lecturer, MIT) and Liam Fox (Owner/Chef, Forte Greene). Teams were judged on a number of criteria including taste, presentation, innovation, creativity, hygiene and wastage (teams lose marks for unnecessary food or packaging waste). The event was MC’d by food consultant Israel Evers. Now in its sixth year, the National Secondary Schools Culinary Championships (NSSCC) is the largest secondary school culinary competition in the country and was held at the Manukau Institute of Technology. Finalists were selected from regional heats in Northland/North Auckland, South Auckland, Waikato, Hawke’s Bay, Taranaki, Wellington, Canterbury/Nelson/Marlborough, and Otago/ Southland. In the final, students had 90 minutes to prepare, cook and present four individually-plated portions each of an entrée and a main course. The entrée contained fresh New Zealand-grown tomatoes as the principal component of the dish; the main course had to consist of a portion of Waitoa free range chicken breast, skin on and bone in, and included three fresh New Zealand-grown 6 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
vegetables, one of which had to be a potato. “Each year we continue to be impressed with the standard and expertise of the skills shown by the students,” says Head Judge Mark Wylie. “It’s a reflection of both the students’ efforts and that of their tutors, who bring a great game to the table every year. This year we saw a lot of skills that mirror what is happening at the moment in the industry – it’s impressive to see how current the students’ skills are.” Wylie says picking a winner wasn’t easy. “The technical skills, like the butchering and cooking techniques have been outstanding – two of the floor judges, Ben Bayly and Jeremy Schmidt, said that they would happily give any of the students competing today a job in their kitchens. To get an accolade like that from chefs of their calibre is impressive – all the finalists should be very proud.” Isabella Viakai, from Manurewa High School, and Sam Ashmore, from Te Awamutu College, were also awarded scholarships to study at any City & Guilds-approved tertiary education site. Glenn Fulcher, Trustee of the Culinary Arts Development Trust, an organisation which was formed to manage culinary competitions like NSSCC, says the continuing rise in skill level through the years shows how much potential there is for young people to succeed in the hospitality industry in New Zealand.
NSSCC 2018 FINALIST SCHOOLS, COMPETITORS AND TUTORS WelTec Trades Academy - Latisha Robinson & Thanakorn Poungsang (Tutor: Toby Sanderson) Napier Girls High School - Kelsey Stubbs & Alannah Grant (Tutor: Rachel Pollet) Whanganui High School - Britney Walsh & Caitlyn Butlin (Tutor - Linda Hardcastle) Burnside High School - Maggie Carroll & Liza Khorozova (Tutor: Kristie Hanley) Kings High School - Liam Hynd & Nickolas Bryan (Tutor - Hannah Cromarty) Manurewa High School - Isabella Vaikai & Elizabeth Malaki (Tutor - Sara Blackburn) Long Bay College - Bara Kralova & Aimee Pugh (Tutor - Amber Rinkin) Te Awamutu College - Morgan McKenzie & Sam Ashmore (TIC - Will Cawkwell)
NEWS
New Menu For Iconic Restaurant The French Café has officially changed ownership with leading restaurateurs Sid and Chand Sahrawat given the keys to the famed Symonds St fine dining establishment. Now renamed Sid at The French Café, it joins the Sahrawats’ other award-winning restaurants, Sidart in Ponsonby and Cassia in the CBD. Taking over the reins of The French Café from previous owners Simon Wright and Creghan Molloy-Wright, Sid says he and Chand are well aware of the 35-year legacy they’re inheriting. “The French Café has been an Auckland icon for many years now, and we’re really excited about being the new caretakers of this jewel in the city’s fine dining crown,” he says. “We know we’ve got really big shoes to fill here, but we’re looking forward to that challenge.” Diners are now able to enjoy what’s being described as the perfect marriage of old and new, with nods to The French Café’s famous menu favourites sitting alongside the innovative fare Sid’s other restaurants are known for. The flavours of the famous beetroot and goat’s cheese tart that was a classic on the The French Café’s old menu, for example, will be referenced in a new dish, while a comfit duck leg creation will see the duck cooked in the same way as before, but married with flavours from Sid’s repertoire. With the Sahrawats’ other fine dining restaurant, Sidart, moving to a progressive Indian cuisine earlier this year, Sid has also repurposed popular dishes from Sidart’s old menu and is ready to give them new life at Sid at the French Café. Diners can expect other new dishes with Sid’s signature creative flair, too, such as pomme soufflé, smoked yoghurt, onion and kale or scampi with leek, lovage and spruce or aged fillet of beef, charred parsnip, goat’s curd and cavolo nero, to name a few. “We’re looking forward to creating these reinvented classics for loyal French Café customers, as well as delighting the diners who’ve grown to love the ever-changing contemporary cuisine at Sidart,” he says. While Sid will be at the helm of the restaurant, he will also be supported by The French Café’s existing staff, as well as long-time colleague Lesley Chandra, who has assumed the role of executive chef. And it will be business as usual, with Sid at The French Café sticking with the same opening hours i.e. Tuesdays through Saturdays for dinner and lunch on Fridays with bookings available for the restaurant, private cellar and The French Kitchen. All pricing and menu options (degustation, vegetarian and a la carte) also remain the same. 8 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
Sid at The French Café heralds new era for Auckland institution
IN SEASON
MEAT a BEEF RIB Beef Rib is the perfect cut to produce a menu item that packs a punch of flavour with a buttery soft texture. Using the sous vide method of cooking will bring you the best results with beef rib ensuring a perfect tender result ready for your creative menu application. Pictured here is Tempura beef short rib with barley and a bacon béarnaise by Ambassador Chef Damon McGinniss of Emporium Eatery & Bar in Napier. www.nzexcellenceawards.co.nz
SEAFOOD FRESH PRODUCE c ASPARAGUS It’s asparagus season again! A perfect time to put a springtime asparagus frittata, or an asparagus and grilled haloumi salad on the menu. The fleshy green spears of asparagus are both succulent and tender and have been considered a delicacy since ancient times. As well as a distinctive flavour and presentation, this highly prized vegetable provides a truly unique combination of antiinflammatory nutrients. Asparagus also provides a wide variety of antioxidant nutrients, including vitamin C, beta-carotene, vitamin E, and the minerals zinc, manganese, and selenium, plus it’s an excellent source of folic acid and vitamin B1, B2 and B6. In New Zealand, asparagus is mainly grown in the Waikato, however T&G also sources asparagus from the USA to enable freshness and flavour year-round. Our team of category specialists work hard to ensure the shortest gap possible between picking and purchase so it’s as fresh as possible. When buying asparagus, look for fresh, clean product with trimmed ends and a minimum of white end. Fresh asparagus is ‘squeaky’ – when the spears are gently rubbed they squeak; old asparagus is rubbery and doesn’t squeak. Members of the foodservice sector can purchase fresh produce from T&G’s 12 market floors or online www.tandg.global www.firstpick.co.nz 10 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
c TRUMPETER Trumpeter, a member of the latris lineata family, is available year-round in New Zealand. Preferring cooler climates, they are more abundant along the east and southern coasts of the South Island, particularly around Kaikōura, Otago and Stewart Island waters. The Bay of Plenty is their northern limit. Their favourite habitats are reefs or rough ground at depths of 20 to 200 metres. Freshly caught trumpeter has a handsome appearance. Its fins are yellow and green and the lower half of its body is covered in a silver sheen. Three horizontal stripes running along the trumpeter’s sides are what makes it distinct. These stripes are a vibrant olive-green but fade to a muddier colour when dry. Trumpeter flesh is known for its rich flavour. It has a delicate sweetness similar to shellfish, but also holds an earthiness that gives the fish a savoury note. Fillets have a fine textured flake and a high oil content which keeps the fish moist once cooked. The versatility and flavour of trumpeter makes it a prized fish among chefs and home cooks. Pairing fillets with a good sauvignon blanc will accentuate its sweet flavour, whereas smoking the fish will yield a firm and earthy tasting steak. The firm and meaty quality of trumpeter lends itself best to being grilled, sautéed or baked whole. Searing portions of trumpeter until the skin is crispy is especially good. Smear several spoons of pesto on a plate, sprinkle a handful of pine nuts and add the crispy trumpeter. Top the fish with cherry tomatoes, sweet basil and micro greens for a dish that everybody will enjoy.
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THE SOURCE FROM OUR CELLARS TO YOUR DOOR
S P E C I A L , L I M I T E D A N D U N I Q U E P R O D U C T S D E L I V E R E D D I R E C T LY TO YO U. N O AC C O U N T N EC E S S A RY – PAY BY C R E D I T C A R D A N D F E AT U R E O U R S M A L L B AT C H , T O P S H E L F P R O D U C T S O N Y O U R D R I N K S L I S T.
S I G N U P TO S T R A I G H T F R O M T H E S O U R C E A N D R E C E I V E A M O N T H LY N E W S L E T T E R O F E XC LU S I V E O F F E R I N G S D E L I V E R E D D I R E C T LY TO YO U R D O O R . W W W. ST R A I G H T F RO M T H E S O U RC E .C O.N Z
HOSPITALITY NZ CONFERENCE
12 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
HOSPITALITY NZ CONFERENCE
Hospitality New Zealand 2018 Conference
T
Balbontin was another special guest speaker known for his spontaneous and innovative approach to disruptors and this sparked a story on current affairs show Seven Sharp, about his views on New Zealand tourism.
Guest speakers included renowned kiwi restauranteur, Al Brown, Lion Managing Director Rory Glass and Westpac Senior Economist, Dominick Stephens. Lonely Planet’s former Executive Director, Gus
The two-day event culminated in the association's 2018 celebration dinner to announce this year’s winners of the Lionsponsored Hospitality New Zealand Awards for Excellence. The venue for the awards dinner was top secret until it was revealed to the 340 delegates who travelled by bus through the rolling hillside to Lake June
his year's Hospitality New Zealand conference took place in picturesque Queenstown on 26 and 27 September, and provided delegates with an exciting and thought-provoking two-day programme with a cocktail of innovative ideas and resources to take away.
at NZ High Country. There they enjoyed a feast of pork belly, Canterbury beef fillet, and finished off with a toffee apple, hokey pokey ricotta bombolini, apple curd and salted caramel ice cream! Complimenting the evening guests enjoyed the finest local and international wines including Mt Difficulty’s Pinot Noir. TV presenter Rachel Smalley was the Master of Ceremonies for the awards, and finalists from all over New Zealand were recognised for their commitment to providing the very best service over a range of categories.
Hospitality BUSINESS | October 2018 | 13
HOSPITALITY NZ CONFERENCE
Excellence in Marketing Erik’s Fish and Chips, Queenstown
Erik’s have created a unique and vibrant brand to stand out from the competition, creating and executing their own marketing strategy. This has culminated in exceptional sales growth. Their dream was to be the best fish and chip shop in New Zealand, bringing people together to provide a happy and memorable Kiwi experience in two beautiful locations.
People's Choice Erik’s Fish and Chips, Wanaka
Erik’s Fish and Chips, Wanaka, took out the 2degrees People's Choice Award.
Excellence in Gaming Richard Pearse Tavern, Timaru
Richard Pearse Tavern is part of Northend Hotels (NEH): an urban gastro pub featuring a large bar, restaurant and a Pub Charity Limited gaming room. They demonstrate commitment to delivering high performance standards in gaming operations, excellent customer service, along with exceptional standards and systems around compliance, cash management and harm minimisation. They strive to provide a safe and enjoyable environment for gaming customers and committed to raising of funds to support local groups and organisations.
Best Redeveloped Bar / Restaurant Cook Street Social, Hamilton
The redevelopment of Cook Street Social in Hamilton has provided a complete transformation. The heritage and sense of community were encapsulated in the design brief. The cinema bar lightbox is a show stopper and displays the 24-tap beer bar. This refurbishment has brought style to the suburbs and Cook Street Social has already become a local institution.
Excellence in Host Responsibility Functionmaster, Wellington
Functionmaster has built a credible reputation in managing the Sale of Liquor Act at a number of venues, concerts and events. The level of documented processes, the risk assessment profile, the pre and post briefings, the staff training and communications are all excellent. The team are professional and experienced, and have developed an excellent and trusting relationship with the police, local authorities, and promoters alike.
14 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
HOSPITALITY NZ CONFERENCE
Excellence in Training & Staff Development Emerson's Taproom, Dunedin
Emerson’s Taproom's training and development plan is structured to ensure that service standards are being met, and each team member’s individual requirements are considered. They have achieved a collaborative win/win attitude across the team, increased employee engagement by 95%, increased the average spend per table by over 13%, and provided excellent customer satisfaction.
Best Destination Venue Tantalus Estate, Waiheke Island
At Tantalus Estate everything is designed to leave an indelible impression and provide a tantalizing sensory experience. Named in the top 100 restaurants within the first 9 months of operation, Tantalus also holds #1 Status on Trip Advisor. They have a popular Cellar Door, a Native Wetland walk and are Helicopter friendly. Whether you’re dressed in a designer suit or board shorts and jandals, all Tantalus guests are treated like VIPS.
Best Redeveloped Accommodation Hotel Grand Windsor, Auckland
Opened in October 2017, Hotel Grand Windsor has successfully transitioned from three-star to five-star status while still operating. Renovations were completed one floor at a time to contain disruption. Concurrently, staff with a background in luxury hotels were recruited. At the heart of the hotel are the dining and living spaces of Cooke’s Restaurant & Bar, where cleverly placed furnishings create intimate spaces. Hotel Grand Windsor has created a five-star hideaway in the heart of Auckland’s city.
Best Newcomer F&B
Whistling Sisters - The Fermentery, Wellington Whistling Sisters is a Scott Family project. Other Scott family venues in Wellington include Leuven, Avida and the Featherston City Tavern. This fine food and beverage establishment is more than just a great place to dine or visit – they like to create new and unexpected experience based on customers’ enjoyment. The Scott Family started this project to give back to the community through the Karen Louisa foundation. Karen was their beloved daughter and sister who they lost to breast cancer in 2015.
Best Environmental / Sustainable Business Vines Village Café
The Vines Village is a collection of six retail outlets, ranging from fashion, art and crafts to gourmet foods and sweet treats. Also on site are the Whitehaven Wines cellar door, the Vines Village Café, and boutique accommodation. If you are dining in the café you can be sure some of the ingredients have come straight from the kitchen garden. In their ever-evolving project, the aim is to turn Vines Village into a full eco-village.
Best Café
Miro, Christchurch After being open for just two months, this 45-seat restaurant is serving over 200 coffees and 120 breakfasts & brunches daily. Located in the old Caffe Roma on Oxford terrace, it has been a labour of love to ensure the décor at Miro has been fully restored to its former glory. The emphasis here is on quality, locally sourced ingredients served in a sophisticated environment. become a local institution.
Hospitality BUSINESS | October 2018 | 15
HOSPITALITY NZ CONFERENCE
Best Country Hotel Cardrona Hotel, Wanaka
Located on the spectacular Crown Range Road, the Cardrona Hotel is one of New Zealand’s oldest and most iconic hotels. It boasts a fully licensed bar and an awardwinning restaurant, along with 16 en suite hotel rooms. Although the building has undergone many renovations and additions, every care has been taken to preserve the unique character and historical relics from the hotel’s past.
Best Motel
The St James, Hanmer Springs The St James is a 5-star rated property just off of the main street in the centre of Hanmer Springs, just a few minutes’ walk to the thermal pools, shops, cafes and restaurants. The St James offers premium accommodation, great service and genuine hospitality. They have 16 units of boutique luxury accommodation. “Our difference is the detail” motto begins from the moment you check in when you are warmly greeted by your hosts, Paul and Rae Baigent.
Best Bar
Good Union, Cambridge Good George came to life after a group of friends decided it was time to create their own craft beer brand. The name Good Union represents the union of good food, good beer and good people. This fully licensed bar and restaurant is open 7 days for lunch and dinner, with the addition of breakfast on the weekends. Good Union prides itself on sourcing fresh local produce, offers a unique menu incorporating ‘low and slow’ cooking.
Best Neighbourhood Bar & Eatery Southern Cross Garden Bar, Wellington
The Southern Cross is more than just a bar. It is a community within the community, offering locals a place to connect and relax, kick back in the garden bar and enjoy a bite to eat. They can catch up on latest magazines/newspapers in the library, watch an outdoor movie or organise their social calendar in line with the Southern Cross’s weekly schedule of live gigs and entertainment. This place is humming, and the service is attentive and friendly.
Best Hotel
Escape to Picton Boutique Hotel, Picton Escape to Picton is a boutique hotel, bar and restaurant situated by Picton’s waterfront, overlooking the marina. As a luxury hotel, they invest their time into perfecting their customers’ experience down to the last detail. Their three luxury suites are designed to make their guests’ stay memorable.
Best Restaurant White+Wongs, Auckland
White + Wong's is located in the heart of the Auckland Viaduct, bring east and west together with expansive harbour views. There are plenty of re-invented and traditional South-east Asian favourites, including Peking Duck, Kung Pao Chicken and handcrafted dumplings. Enjoy the theatre from their open format kitchen. The menu and Asian-inspired “Woktails” will take you on a culinary journey of flavours throughout Asia.
16 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
HOSPITALITY NZ CONFERENCE
Supreme Winner
Cardrona Hotel, Wanaka Cardrona management and staff are masters at managing the huge array of patrons of all ages that frequent the hotel. They have handled their design and layout with care and their food and service is second to none. They always deliver an incredibly high-quality product, no matter how much pressure the bar and restaurant are under. The judges believe that the Cardrona Hotel has executed the perfect balance between elegance and world-class kiwi hospitality.
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Contact us for a complimentary review of your insurances Call Ash on 021 571 348 Copyright © 2018 Marsh Ltd. All rights reserved. NZ18-0991
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2018 Hospitality New Zealand Best Restaurant AWARD Congratulations to
WHITE + WONG’S AUCKLAND
FINALISTS: LULU, WELLINGTON TANTALUS ESTATE, WAIHEKE ISLAND
Recognising a lifetime of service to Hospitality Peter Morrison, Proprietor of Christchurch’s luxury boutique hotel, The Classic Villa, has been inducted into the Hospitality New Zealand Hall of Fame. The HNZ Hall of Fame is made up of individuals who have made significant contributions to the hospitality industry, who are admired and respected by their peers and exemplify excellence and dedication to the Hospitality industry. With a career spanning just over 40 years, Peter Morrison is a mainstay of the Christchurch hospitality scene. He holds various executive roles, including his current role as Vice-President of the national board of Hospitality New Zealand. He is also a World Director of SKAL International, the world’s leading tourism and hospitality organisation. “I am delighted to accept this honour,” Mr Morrison said. “Hospitality has been my career all my working life and it’s wonderful to be recognised in this way.” Peter Morrison started his career in the mid-1970s as a management trainee for Lion Nathan, gaining valuable management experience in various hotels throughout the country. He moved to Christchurch in 1986 where he managed the Hotel Russley, before becoming one of the owners. Throughout the 1990s, his company Morrison Hospitality Management Ltd successfully owned and managed a number of accommodation, bar and restaurant establishments including, Morrisons on Merrin in Avonhead and the Mansfield House & Tavern in Merivale. With his partner Jan Clarke, he has been welcoming guests at The Classic Villa since 2006. Hospitality NZ Chief Executive Vicki Lee said Mr Morrison has given so much of himself for the industry. “He’s been a champion of hospitality through many changes of government and legislation. You won’t find a more caring and generous person than Peter.” In last year’s Queens Birthday Honours, Mr Morrison was awarded an MNZM (Member of the New Zealand Order of Merit) for services to the hospitality industry.
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LUXURY HOTEL
BOUTIQUE HOTEL OPENS IN CAMBRIDGE Henley Hotel in Cambridge is the newest addition to the Brook Serene collection of luxury boutique hotels. With five impeccably designed suites and nine handcrafted bedrooms, Henley Hotel complements the company’s family of boutique hotels with its attention to detail and personalised service. Brook Serene has engaged Kathrine (Kat) Brightwell as Hotel Manager and Steve Carson as Executive Chef. Kat returns to the hotel industry after a time in the food and beverage sector, and Steve returns to the Waikato from gaining experience at luxury lodges around New Zealand. Kat is looking forward to creating an exceptional experience that makes guests wish to return including greeting guests upon arrival, personalised check-in, offering a superior food and beverage selection and itineraries that matter to each guest. Steve is focused on preparing nutritious and delicious food that entice the palate and makes clients want more of the goodness coming from his kitchen. The onsite gardens and orchards, local farms and markets provide the freshest produce for guests to enjoy. Steve has a cooking style that is modern, clean and crisp, and that offers a flavour profile which surprises and delights from start to finish. Henley Hotel is easy to access from Auckland and has Hobbiton and Waitomo nearby; with the national velodrome, horse studs, Lake Karapiro and the cycle-way on its doorstep. Set in 29 acres of parkland setting, Henley Hotel has its screening room, indoor pool, day spa and a selection of homemade baked goods, all in a setting of comfort expected in a luxury boutique hotel. “Our team looks forward to sharing this beautiful property with our loyal guests and inviting new guests alike. We are quietly confident Henley
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Hotel will quickly establish itself as a “must-do” for travellers seeking a luxurious country haven with great kiwi hospitality in the true Brook Serene style,” explains Bruce Garrett, Managing Director of Brook Serene.
SEAFOOD TRENDS
Mussels, Marlborough style. Aid the planet and eat sustain-ably
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he global groundswell of health and sustainability-conscious Clams are also another great cheap, sustainable option in New Zealand. diners has swept across the land and into the sea, as diners Always in demand, scallops may appear a little less this summer. happily dip a little deeper into their wallets to save the planet At Fishbone, Darren’s customers don’t mind paying a bit of a while eating well. premium to aid the planet and eat sustainably. “Seafood should be From health and sustainability-conscious millennials through to wellexpensive,” he says. “That shows that we’re not over-fishing.” heeled baby boomers with money to spend, there’s an increased awareness Omega Seafood Marketing Manager Jo O’Connell says more and of what is really ‘good’ for us. more people around the globe are living by Hippocrates’ mantra, ‘Let For prominent New Zealand seafood chef and Fishbone Queenstown food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.’ Everybody from owner Darren Lovell it’s a constant battle to educate customers about health and sustainability conscious millennials through to the aging eating locally, sustainably and being good stewards of our oceans. population have been scooped up by the health and wellness whirlwind. “People are becoming much more aware, but I wish it was more “People want foods served with minimal processing and using natural important to them,” says Darren, who’s been passionate about ingredients,” says Jo. sustainability since his involvement Dietary requirements are also with Fishbone in 1991. becoming much more varied. ‘First “We’ve done our best to educate world’ customers are increasingly aware our customers that we need to of diet and avoiding certain allergens. eat locally,” he says. Fishbone Shellfish is an allergen so it’s only serves seafood that has been important that all product can be caught under the New Zealand fully traced back to source, says Jo. quota management system. “We’re “We actually trace every Omega trying to educate people not Mussel pouch back to the exact to eat the likes of prawns from mussel line on the mussel farm environmental disaster zones like where it was grown.” Southeast Asia,” he says. It’s a mandatory requirement of Darren prefers all of his fish and Food Control Plan compliance and shellfish to be Marine Stewardship commercial kitchens have a duty Council-certified wherever of care to their patrons to trace all possible. “We use fully sustainable product. stock like orange roughy, ling and Traceability is not only vital albacore tuna. Blue and yellow fin for allergen management, but the Delicious, beautifully-presented mussels telling their own ‘story’. tuna is very sustainable. It’s overprovenance of food is now huge. fished,” says Darren. Customers want the entire back Octopus is another great sustainable option and Darren’s predicting story, including all the details about where the seafood was raised, sourced, it’ll be big heading into this summer. “It’s frustrating because everybody and how it was caught and processed. laughed at me eight years ago when I wanted to serve octopus, but it ‘Conscious diners’ are on the rise, she says. “They’re eager to ensure comes with good green credentials,” he says. “It’s sustainable, ecothat the seafood on their plate is both sustainable and ethicallyfriendly, delicious and a by-catch of crayfish in New Zealand. Up until produced. New Zealand’s international reputation as a premium recently it was being sent overseas.” food producer means many tourists arrive hungry for Kiwi dining Octopus now takes pride of place on the Fishbone menu. Octopus Tacos experiences like greenshell mussels and they want that paired with local – Darren’s own Kiwi take on a Spanish delicacy – come served with potato wine or beer. “Tourists are very interested in the story behind the plate and chorizo hash and Kiwifruit salsa. “They’re delicious,” he says. and glass,” says Jo. Darren’s predicting albacore tuna will also be big on summer menus as They’re looking for species that are endemic to New Zealand, like blue chefs learn more about how threatened tuna species are. Orange roughy cod, mussels and Bluff oysters, says Jo. They want to know what the – the poster child for over-fishing during the 1980’s when that market health properties are, the Te Reo name, how the fish or shellfish were collapsed – is now the poster child for sustainable fishing, he says. fed, whether they were wild catch or sustainably farmed. n Hospitality BUSINESS | October 2018 | 21
SEAFOOD EXECUTIVE CHEF Uelese Mua (Wallace to many): The young Auckland executive chef with talent to burn, launches his first menu at FISH restaurant this month.
to get the menu out there and see everyone’s reactions.” Living in France from 2010 to 2016 with his now French wife Anais Renard Mua, he admits to being spoilt with the superb produce that’s so accessible in Europe. What does console him about being home though is the superior seafood the restaurant serves to its diners. “In Europe a lot of the stocks are overfished but here the seafood’s so fresh and plentiful. We can’t compete with the French when it comes to a lot of their cheese, wine and produce but I think we’re miles ahead when it comes to seafood.” WALLACE’S CULINARY BACKSTORY Born in Auckland with Samoan heritage, food is the hero at every Mua/ Frost family gathering. Wallace grew up interested in cooking and when he started working at the City Life Hotel kitchen in 2004, his cheffing career finally got underway. “I really enjoyed it and I worked hard. The chefs could see I was keen and kept offering extra work which I always took on. I worked at the Heritage Hotel now and then too which was great experience.” Cooking at the Garnet Bar & Kitchen in Westmere in 2009, “with the basic skill set but no guidance or direction”, he was discovered by Gareth, who at that time was head chef at Soul Bar & Bistro. This was a big career break for Wallace who became a strong member of Gareth’s team and worked at the Viaduct’s dining hot spot for three years. It was also at Soul Bar that he met French-born Anais, who was waitressing there at the time. When she returned to France, Wallace wanted to join her and the stars aligned. Gareth had given him the confidence as a chef to go to France, and Anais gave him the reason.
It’s all about
FISH French Michelin-star restaurants wouldn’t take him on but Auckland-born chef Wallace Mua made a name for himself regardless, in Paris and Marseille. Jes Magill finds out how he did it and what he’s doing now since returning home.
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ome days Wallace Mua still can’t believe it, turning up for work as executive chef at FISH, Hilton Auckland’s flagship waterfront restaurant. In one of life’s crazy coincidences, he worked at the hotel 15 years ago on the housekeeping team, never imagining he’d return to run the kitchen and have 24 assistants. Wallace’s story has all the elements: This fresh young talent from Mt Roskill makes a name for himself in some of Auckland’s top restaurants before heading to France to stir the gastronomic sauté pan over there. Then, arriving home two years ago he’s soon appointed one of the country’s youngest executive chefs. While overseas, Wallace stayed in contact with his long-time boss and mentor Gareth Stewart, now Nourish Group’s executive chef. On his return, he took on the role of sous chef at FISH, and took the helm there last October. “It was really exciting,” Wallace says of his new role. “Being able to cook my style of food, create The Chef’s menu and bring in flavour influences from my Samoan heritage – it’s the best thing.” There’s a lot of buzz around Wallace’s first menu at FISH which launches this month and he’s tried to involve as many chefs as possible. “It’s part of the process,” he says. “If they’re involved it makes everyone more passionate and we’ve been working really hard on this. I can’t wait 22 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
FRENCH MICHELIN RESTAURANTS ROUX THE DAY? Arriving in Paris in 2000, Wallace had his fair share of trials and initially, finding work was tough. He had his heart set on being an intern at a Michelin star restaurant somewhere in France but this just didn’t happen. “Their criteria was really strict. Some Kiwis have been lucky but you mostly needed a French upbringing and traditional training.” He filled a chef de partie position at Radisson Blu for a while and several similar venues before things really fell into place. “One of my stewards where I was the chef in a previous restaurant bought the Bistro George and we worked together getting it up and running.” Impressed with his innovative, fresh cooking style, the steward/ owner basically handed Wallace the keys to the kitchen. “‘You can do whatever you like,’ he said, which was a fantastic opportunity. I think Bistro George was so successful because I was doing something different to everyone else. “In New Zealand you learn different styles and I just brought that into my cooking over there. Every day we had a different type of cuisine. There were always four consistent dishes and three that I changed every day, to keep things interesting and keep people coming. “I played with a lot with Asian flavours there too. The main Asian restaurants in Paris are either Japanese or Vietnamese so we added in Thai style for something different. “One of the best things about French cooking is the tradition, and these same principles we still use in kitchens today. It’s also much easier to find great suppliers at the markets and select your own produce. The quality of everything is outstanding.” Even more outstanding – and refreshing – is Wallace’s take on French chefs. “I would call Gareth and say ‘Our chefs in New Zealand are so much better’. Kiwi chefs are definitely more creative because we have to try harder. We’re always going to have fish over them but in terms of other ingredients, we put so much more effort into our dishes because their produce is generally better.” SIGNATURE STYLE Wallace’s cooking style is an exotic mix of Polynesian influences entwined with his own talent, plus fantastic French techniques and a passion for New Zealand seafood. And his favourite flavour profile: “Playing with sweet and sour. I worked with this a lot at Bistro George.” Asked to describe his signature dish, Wallace struggles. “I’ve yet to
SEAFOOD EXECUTIVE CHEF pinpoint one – I have about five. They’re like my signature dishes when I really want to impress. “One is a fish dish, a sauté of potatoes, chorizo and calamari with a green goddess dressing. Another is Palusami, a Samoan dish using taro leaves and coconut cream. Then there’s Island Chop Suey, inspired by a dish my mum cooks. “There’s also a classic I learnt from Gareth called spiced squid and almond skordalia. It’s a dish that I’ve given my own twist, adding sun-dried tomato and spicy tomato relish. Another is a linguini, a homemade pasta with prawns and crabmeat. I’ve been playing around with freeze dried kina powder for this too, to get that creamy, rich, salty flavour. Kina are really seasonal but with the powder we can enjoy the flavour all year round.”
“I would call Gareth [Stewart, Nourish Group executive chef], and say ‘Our chefs in New Zealand are so much better’. Kiwi chefs are definitely more creative because we have to try harder.”
THANKS MUM Wallace is grateful to his mum Letaulau Mua Frost for many things, and especially for teaching him a fundamental flavour boost that he uses all the time – caramelised garlic. “To concentrate flavours for jus, caramelising is one of the most important things I’ve learnt.” Letaulau has dined at FISH several times and while she’s of course very proud, she does think Wallace’s cooking is a little bit too fancy. Her food philosophy: ‘you can’t beat traditional Samoan dishes’ and in a way, Wallace agrees: “There aren’t many ingredients in Samoan cooking but what there is, is really aromatic – ginger, coriander and my favourite ingredient, coconut.” Building the team is another source of joy in his role as executive chef. “My team is really young. Since I came back, my commis have all developed to demi’s and I used to work with one of my sous chefs 10 years ago. One of my rising stars used to work in Bellini, the bar downstairs, and she’s going really well.” n
Wallace Mua, executive chef, FISH, Hilton Auckland
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Hospitality BUSINESS | October 2018 | 23
HOTEL MANAGEMENT
Single focus for New Zealand’s largest hotel
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By Michael Hooper
he General Manager of the country’s do have a big building to maintain.” Grand Millennium General largest hotel, Ken Orr, is an The dynamic pricing model is becoming more Manager,Ken Orr. economics graduate who knows that accepted, he says, but it depends from which all the big numbers add up to one. end of the telescope you view it. “It’s a bit tough 452 rooms come under his wing at the Grand for people who may have paid $200 when they Millennium Auckland where he is marking his stayed before but who have come back when first anniversary, but not with his feet under the the city is quite busy and they have to pay $300. desk. “I became an accountant but realised I liked They think they’re paying more, but I see it the people better than numbers, and ended up in other way around – they probably got a very hotels, which is exactly where I should be.” good discount the first time.” Ken Orr first came to my attention as GM The truffle on the bed used to be quite a thing; of the 118-room Copthorne on Wellington’s the DVD player has gone, and the pay-for movie Oriental Bay. I had left something in my room, is dying. “A lot of people travel with a device that and only realised when checking in for my flight. has all their favourite shows on it, so that when A frantic phone call, just 15 minutes before my they come to a room they can mirror up to the flight closed, and Ken threw his car keys to an television.” assistant manager who sped to the airport. The hotel has just finished an upgrade to its In his first week in Auckland , Ken Orr called broadband pipe. “A few years ago everyone was a meeting to “chat” with the concierge staff. craving hot water and television. Now they “They’re our front door and I wanted to tell just want wifi; it’s absolutely paramount to them how I see hospitality. I think they liked the running a hotel these days. A lot of conferences forum; I’m a very open person and I wanted to are going paperless with everyone on a device tell them what my values are. It wasn’t the boss downloading information live, which creates a telling them what to do but what the end product lot of bandwidth issues.” is – a very happy guest. They had good ideas, and It’s not just the nature of hotel operations that felt they had a voice. Hopefully when you walk has changed as technology advances. Ken says in the door they’re thinking the right things and guests have also changed. He uses the example that will flow through. They also spend a lot of of the hotel pillow which may be really good, time with the guests, taking luggage up to rooms but the one you choose to have at home may and giving advice, so it was right that this was my be even better; the same with wine glasses or first port of call.” other creature comforts. “It’s harder to provide A preoccupation with being “operationally that extra luxury that you don’t get at home, so excellent” can easily divert attention, he says, that has to come in other ways, and it’s from the from the main reason guests return, and staff stay: recognition. “If you’ve people who work here. Guests are not more demanding, but they’re come to the hotel 10 times you expect everyone to welcome you back, more expectant, less willing to accept failures.” and we try to use all the triggers so we recognise someone when they Functions are a big earnings driver and the Grand Millennium walk in the door. ballroom seats 500 for dinner. “It’s a good revenue generator because “We were changing 352 beds today, and if that becomes the focus, you people have breakfast, lunch and dinner, and if they stay the night they lose focus on other things. We need to make sure that the management tend to want to enjoy themselves. Everything’s contained in the hotel team is focussed on guest recognition not having 300 check-outs in a and we don’t leak too much of the revenue out to the High Street.” morning.” That’s one of the reasons you’ll often find his feet “on the The group runs fixed-hour contracts, creating another overhead, floor”, trying to avoid being just a manager of managers. “If you’re not especially in functions where bookings vary. “We like to give staff some careful, you come to rely on other people to carry your vision, which guarantees, which is tough for us, but it’s fair and just; people have a is tough because not everyone sees you the same way. You’ve got to be family to feed and rent to pay. We like to look after the people that careful not to cocoon yourself in the office and send managers out to work for us, so it’s important that we keep that.” complete your role.” A larger property has to work harder at staff involvement and Guest emails flood in, so another danger is getting inundated by retention. “In a smaller team, individuals have a lot more power in each generic feedback. “I’m looking for key words that tell me whether the role, more of a voice.” The diversity of today’s large hotel staff presents staff is friendly, professional, or goes beyond the call. Bland feedback other issues. “We have maybe 18 languages, and not all have perfect means that maybe things were just normal or good, and good is not English, and culturally they also differ, so getting them all on the same enough, these days.” page, keeping the team bonded together, is not always easy.” The hotel room is a perishable, says Ken. “If you don’t sell it tonight, One thing hasn’t changed. “It’s a people industry, and it’s always then you can’t sell that night tomorrow.” Operating at 100 percent about looking after the people that work for you. If we get that right, occupancy is not unusual for the Millennium Grand during the peak all the other things will fall into place. If we don’t, we’ll lose staff to summer months, when wear and tear challenges maintenance, with little competition or to other industries. We’ve got to make sure the industry time to get into a room. “If you’re running at 70 percent occupancy, for is as sexy as it can be. example, how long does a bed last for? How long do you wait before “We’re looking for uncompromised, personalised service and we’ll do an upgrade? That equation is totally different if you’re at 100 percent, anything to make sure that every individual gets the experience they’re when a seven-year cycle might become five-and-a-half.” expecting. We need to make sure that everyone who comes through Getting good room yields remains a challenge. “People look at the New Zealand’s door feels they’re welcome in, and that we make it special night of the All Blacks when hotels are quite expensive and think we’re for them. That’s the vein that goes through all hospitality right down to making a lot of money, but they’re not here on a Sunday night, and we the local pub. That’s what we’re here for.” n
“We’re a people industry, and that’s never going to go away.”
24 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
WEST COAST EXCELLENCE
Five Star Retreat Wins Through
PROFESSIONAL APPROACH A Tale Of Two Stars
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anaging a fiveconsistently ranking in the top star hotel in percentage of hotels on Trip a remote, but Advisor. In 2015 the retreat spectacular, was named in Conde Nast corner of New Zealand’s Traveller’s Top 20 hotels and beautiful bush-clad West Coast resorts in the South Pacific is a far cry from running classy and Australia. restaurants in London, New For Richard the secret to York and Zambia. that success is all about how However, for South Africanpeople are treated. “You should raised 2018 New Zealand Hotel always treat people – guests General Manager of the Year, and staff – the way that you Richard Bungeroth it’s been the like to be treated. Be courteous, highlight of his hospitality career. genuine and caring,” he says. “It’s An MBA graduate from also about how you react and South Africa’s prestigious deal with things when they go Stellenbosch University, wrong. It’s always good to show Richard gained plenty of empathy and understanding.” All operational management good qualities that have taken experience in food and beverage this man to the top of his career. before moving into the rooms Te Waonui Forest Retreat management division. also cleaned up in the front A tale of two stars: Richard Bungeroth and Rohan Thakur. A hotel manager for eight office management category at years now, Richard joined Scenic this year’s awards with IndianHotel’s exclusive five-star 100-room Te Waonui Forest Retreat after stints raised Rohan Thakur taking Regional Employee of the Year. at Scenic Hotels’ Te Pania in Napier and Southern Cross in Dunedin. Rohan has been working in hospitality since he was 17, starting out “If you’d told me 20 years ago that I’d end up in Franz Josef I probably in hotel kitchens in India with the aim of becoming a chef, moving on would’ve laughed at you,” he says. to front office, rooms division and food and beverage. He’s done time in It may be out of the way but this is no backwater operation. some of India’s best hotels, including Taj and working for ITC, one of Depending on the season staff can be serving a five-course India’s largest upmarket hotel chains. degustation dinner to 100 rooms with double occupancy on any given In 2010, Rohan came to New Zealand to do his post graduate studies evening. High-end guests expect the best when they’re paying $1000 a at New Plymouth’s Pacific International Hotel Management School. night, including dinner, bed and breakfast. “Our service must be of an “I was watching a one-hour documentary about hiking and nature in impeccable standard,” says Richard. New Zealand and fell in love with the place.” He was recruited by Scenic Every day presents its own challenges. “Every day is a laugh when Hotels straight from PIHMS to work at Te Waonui Forest Retreat you’re working with people,” he says. “Sometimes you don’t know where he worked for a year, before moving to Scenic Hotel Dunedin whether to laugh or to cry.” City. “When Richard arrived at Te Waonui I moved back.” Mostly he laughs. Sometimes things can even get a tad embarrassing. Raised in a bustling Indian city of 25 million people Franz Joseph is a Like the occasion when Franz Josef was hit by one of the West Coast’s peaceful haven for Rohan. “Living amongst 300 people is definitely an worst flooding back in 2015. “Water hit my house and shot out through upgrade,” he says. Hiking, kayaking and walks on the beach fulfil his love the other side, taking all my belongings down the river. The hotel was of the outdoors. fully booked. We had people coming to assist and to assess the damage. “It’s a wonderful community where everybody knows everybody else. We had staff misplaced. I arrived at work with only the clothes I’d had There’s always somebody to do things with.” on my back – running briefs and a singlet – and my Wellington boots For Rohan the award is a huge honour. He heads up a team of up to (gumboots),” says Richard. “My boss, Lani Hagaman (wife of the late 10 or 12 during the peak of the summer season – concierges, cultural Earl Hagaman, the Texan owner of the Scenic Hotels chain) had to go ambassadors, receptionists and porters. and do some underwear shopping for me and buy me clothes and bring Front office management has its entertaining moments. “One New it all back so that I could keep on working.” Year’s Eve we had live music playing in the bar and a few drunk people Earl Hagaman was a big influence on Richard’s career. “He gave me started yelling angrily at us for no reason,” says Rohan. In true fivemy break in hotel management. He was very good to me.” star hospitality style they managed to diffuse the situation with the His hospitality career has seen Richard meet many celebrities in his intoxicated offenders giving up their argument and wandering off. day, including Richard Branson, Al Gore, Buzz Aldrin and singer ‘Pink’. Rohan’s most embarrassing moment was during the day he handed However, the peaceful tranquillity and laidback West Coast lifestyle a welcome tray of beautiful green kiwifruit juice, wontons and a warm provides the perfect family environment for Richard and his wife and towel to arriving guests, who proceeded to spill the juice all over his suit. their two young sons. “I discovered kiwifruit juice doesn’t come out easily,” says Rohan, “and it “When you tell people you live in Franz Josef they almost always need takes 10 days for our dry-cleaning to arrive back.” to pull out a globe, but it’s such a beautiful place,” says Richard. Not even the sandflies can deter Richard and Rohan from their dream Te Waonui Forest Retreat has won numerous awards and jobs, or their guests from enjoying their stay. “We’re always well accolades since it opened in 2009 for quality, design and sustainability, covered,” says Rohan. n 26 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
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TWENTY SEVEN STEPS
Authenticity, Passion &
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he owners of popular upmarket Christchurch bistro, Twenty Seven Steps are revelling in yet another whirlwind of success after cleaning up five top honours at the Christchurch Restaurant Association Awards recently. It’s the second year of incredible success for waitress-turned-restaurateur Emma Mettrick and Welsh chef Paul Howells, who, with their great team, have shown the industry how it’s done yet again.
28 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
Attention to detail We found this site and fell in love with the space
BY SUE FEA
TWENTY SEVEN STEPS Only open just over five years, Twenty Seven Steps in Christchurch’s newly-rebuilt central city Regent Street heritage precinct, also won four awards, including Best Restaurant, at last year’s ‘Chevrons’ (Christchurch Hospitality Awards). Both Emma and Paul have worked all over the world. Emma, who has a sculpture degree, was a waitress from 1996 until the end of 2009 when she and Paul launched their first restaurant, The Little Bistro in Akaroa, also a great success. They sold that in April 2015. Paul, a chef from Port Talbot in Wales, has a broadcast journalism degree, but began working with his brother in 1986 in restaurants in the Isle of Wight and Mumbles in South Wales. So what’s the secret to success for this dynamic restaurateur duo, who first met while working in Ard Bia in Galway, Ireland? “I honestly don’t know,” says Emma. “It’s all very humbling, especially when we’re surrounded by so many great operators. We’ve just done what we know and had great support from our peers, the public and staff,” she says. “The Christchurch hospitality scene was turned upside down (as were many aspects of the city) because of the quakes so we take our hats off to anyone battling here to bring back the city.” Emma puts some of their success down to “a bit of luck”, as she acknowledges that some excellent operators have failed in the city. “It’s disappointing that some local media focus on the failings of the hospitality industry and not the positives,” she says. “The Chevrons got no mainstream mentions yet many articles have covered those who have gone under.”
Winning restaurateurs Emma Mettrick & Paul Howells.
Looking after their staff is an important component of the business. “We try to support our staff as much as we can with weekly Te Reo classes, staff trips and training.” Emma and Paul have a great team of almost 20 staff backing them up. “At the moment we have a lot of mums working for us, coming back to the industry, and working two or three nights a week. They have that old school experience and responsibility. They want to come and do a good job at looking after people,” says Emma. It’s authenticity, passionate people and attention to detail – having all your ‘ducks in a row’ like service, drinks, food and atmosphere – that makes an excellent restaurant, she says. Both Emma and Paul, business partners now, also co-parent eightyear-old Finn, as well as running their busy restaurant, but they’re able to ensure that 90 percent of the time one of them can be at the restaurant and one with their son. “I think whatever job you do with kids it’s a juggle,” says Emma. “We have great support from our family and friends.” Twenty Seven Steps is located in a beautiful historic space, upstairs in Regent Street, formerly the site of ‘The Coffee Pot’. “We wanted to open a classic restaurant that needed no explanation,” says Emma. “We found this site and fell in love with the space.” They faced two and a half years of delays. “There was much hitting our heads against brick walls with various bureaucracies, a small budget in an upstairs heritage space, but we got there and you quickly forget,” says Emma. “At least while opening this second restaurant I wasn’t pregnant and could have a wine.” It’s a tasteful restaurant, seating 50 to 60 people with simple décor and great locally-sourced food that is all made in-house, beautifully presented and isn’t fiddly. The starters, mains and desserts are all rustic and European-inspired. Wines are predominantly local. “We try to deal with people we love, making things we love,” says Emma. Running a busy restaurant can be challenging at times, but both Emma and Paul do it for love. “Dealing with people 99 percent of the time is brilliant. I still get a kick out of making someone’s night,” she says, “but obviously with people there are a lot of variables. When let down, or when you let people down, it’s hard not to take everything to heart.” “You always have to laugh,” says Emma. “At the end of the day, no matter how much we put into it, we’re serving food and wine, not saving lives. Eating out should be fun,” she says. “It’s all we’ve ever done and we still love it.” n Hospitality BUSINESS | October 2018 | 29
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Exclusive requirements demand Moffat performance Operational systems, menu and layout requirements are just some of the factors ensuring every kitchen is unique. As the distinctive modern kitchen requires a careful combination of ingredients and expertise so too does it need the right mix of equipment. Here’s a taste of what’s on the menu! For overall versatility you simply can’t beat a Convotherm Combi Oven. This renowned equipment uses dry heat, steam or combination modes for baking, roasting, reheating and cooking of proteins, seafoods and starches. From countertop minis to roll-in rack banqueting models, there’s something for every kitchen size. The features are handy too, including the core probe and smoking options. It even cleans itself – what more could you ask for? For ultra-fast cooking and reheating Merrychef’s accelerated cooking technology combines microwave, fan forced and impinged air to deliver quick food with consistent quality. And it’s ventless! A Friginox Blast Chiller/Freezer is another indispensable tool in the modern kitchen. As well as providing safe food conditions from preparation to holding they’re very helpful for effectively utilising kitchen expertise, preserving seasonal produce and increasing menu options. Metos Mixer Kettles are a smart jacketed kettle for cooking, mixing and chilling liquid foods. The options are endless, everything from soups, stocks, and sauces to deserts, fruits and jams, fillings and even mash or whole vegetables. Metos equipment is perfect for specialty food producers, orchards and bakeries – anywhere benefiting from the saved costs and increased safety from automation. The Blue Seal 6 burner range remains a kitchen cornerstone. With its heavy-duty construction, powerful open top burner design and cavernous oven chamber it’s the workhorse NZ chefs depend on. The non-nonsense, easy to clean and service range a long-term investment worth making here and now. With summer approaching ice is definitely cool again. Icematic ice machines are a valuable asset for most establishments, with many businesses using a second smaller unit at the blended drinks station or a flaker for the chilled / seafood display. Keeping your kitchen running smoothly requires every part within the greater whole to be working correctly. Here’s where a preventative maintenance plan for servicing and tuning all equipment is a healthy approach. Using authorised service providers and OEM parts for reliability and trouble-free operation ensures the kitchen will continue to deliver an exceptional performance throughout the years to come. These tools of trade are how we make our living, after all.
For more information: www.moffat.co.nz 32 | October 2018 | Hospitality BUSINESS
One Company Many Solutions
moffat.co.nz freephone 0800 66 33 28
www.theshout.co.nz
October 2018
The Drammys award-winners announced, Whiskies from around the world
PLUS PINK DRINKS • PORT • BOCK BEER N E W Z E A L A N D ’ S L A R G E ST L I Q U O R AU D I E N C E
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WINE n FESTIVAL S & AWA
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OT NEW esho Z Eut A.co LAND’S LA RGEST LIQ .nz 18 UOR AUDI ENCE
July 2018
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New Hardware E
ID GIFT GU RISTMAS S • CH E AWARD C D N IL E I S GU AUD BREWER QUOR NAY • E ST L I ARDON LARG ND’S PLUS CH ZEALA W E N
PLUS ORGANIC WINE n AMERICAN BEER n INDUSTRY INSIGHTS NEW ZEALAND’S LARGEST LIQUOR AUDIENCE
EDITOR Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz
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EDITORIAL
The Shout Editor Charlotte Cowan EDITORIAL
The power of pink If there’s one beverage trend that has really taken off this year, it’s pink drinks. From rose-hued gin, to blush beer, to pink syrups and, of course, Rosé, consumers just can’t get enough of a pretty pink drink. And before you say it, it’s definitely not just for women or Millennials. According to the IWSR: “The power of pink continues to influence alcoholic drinks innovation, crossing category, generational and gender boundaries”. So this issue we’re jumping into the pink abyss! Tash McGill takes a look at the explosion of the category in In The Pink on pgs 9-11 and we share a few of our fave pink offerings on pg 12. But if the power of pink just isn’t for you, what about port? It may seem a little Victorian or something that your Grandad sips on after dinner, but port is a distinctive taste that everyone should try. Learn more from Tash McGill on pgs 16-17. Plus, don’t forget to check out the winners of the Brewers Guild of NZ Awards 2018 on pg 6 and Cameron Douglas MS tastes some of New Zealand’s fruity Pinot Gris on pgs 13-15. For more from The Shout NZ, head over to Instagram and Facebook and follow us @theshoutnz and you can sign up to our fortnightly eNewsletter at www.theshout.co.nz. See you next month!
Contents 04 I ndustry news and insights 06 M oa Southern Alps White IPA crowned champion at Brewers Guild Awards
Plus other Champion and Trophy winners
08 C ounting down to The NZ Cider Festival
Get your tickets to the cider extravaganza happening this November
09 I n the pink
12 D rink pink
Must-try pretty-in-pink products
13 P inot Gris
Tasting notes from Cameron Douglas MS
16 F irst port of call
This month’s spirit on show with Tash McGill
18 B ock beer
Beer writer John Oszajca takes a look at the different styles of Bock beer
Tash McGill explores the explosion of pink drinks on the market
THE COVER: THE DRAMMYS WITH SUPER LIQUOR
The 2018 New Zealand Whisk(e)y Awards, ‘The Drammys’, were created to showcase the best whiskies from around the world in the New Zealand market, including international whiskies but also local distilleries, with an objective to drive awareness for the category. As the principal sponsor of ‘The Drammys’, Super Liquor is excited to announce this year’s winning whiskies on pg 5. For more on Super Liquor, visit www.superliquor.co.nz
www.theshout.co.nz
October 2018
The Drammys award-winners announced, Whiskies from around the world
PLUS SPRING COCKTAILS • CHENIN BLANC • PORTER N E W Z E A L A N D ’ S L A R G E ST L I Q U O R AU D I E N C E
Editor’s picks GORDON’S PREMIUM PINK DISTILLED GIN
If there’s ever a reason for a spring gin cocktail, it’s this. The new pink gin from Gordon’s has all the usual Gordon’s flavours, plus added sweetness from raspberries, strawberries and tangy redcurrants to make the perfect blush beverage. For more perfect pink drinks, take a look at pg 12.
ROCKBURN CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2016
Published By The Intermedia Group Ltd 505 Rosebank Road, Avondale Auckland, 1026, New Zealand Managing Director-Publisher Dale Spencer dspencer@intermedianz.co.nz Editor Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz 021 774 080 Sales Manager Sam Wood swood@intermedianz.co.nz 021 256 6351
Featuring ripe peach, nectarine and Nashi pear aromas, this Pinot Gris from Rockburn in Central Otago is the perfect match to light seafood meals or Asian-spiced cuisine. For more rich and refreshing Pinot Gris, head to Cameron Douglas MS’ tasting notes on pgs 13-15.
VALKYRIE BREWING COMPANY WHERE IS MY MIND?
Made in collaboration with Raindogs, this Eisbock is produced using a complicated brewing process involving strong malt-driven lager, late and dry hopping and freezing the beer. You’ve got to try it just to high-five them for their efforts. For more on Bock beer, check out John Oszajca’s story on pgs 18-19.
TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 3
NEWS INDUSTRY INSIGHTS
This beer looks a little green…
DYLAN FIRTH Executive Director, Brewers Association of New Zealand
Making beer is a pretty energy-intensive process, not only for those brewers sweating over a hot mash-tun but also in the energy required to produce that fine amber liquid we so enjoy. This is why more and more breweries are incorporating sustainable elements into their operations. Sustainability comes in many forms: social, environmental, economic and has come to be expected from consumers who are looking for businesses to show some real social and environmental responsibility. An effective way to improve in this area is through annual stocktakes and sustainability reports. For many businesses this used to be a box ticking exercise but now there are some real and effective initiatives being undertaken. From CO2 emission reduction and decreased water use, through to moderate consumption initiatives and internal health and safety, many breweries in New Zealand are lifting their game. Take DB, for example, who last year reported 104 tonnes of glass diverted from landfill to roading and construction projects through their DB Export sand
initiative, or their reduction of CO2 emissions by 47% since 2008. The Fermentist Brewery in Christchurch has also taken it to another level with a range of initiatives to reduce the carbon footprint including: solar panels for a proportion of electricity usage and hot water heating, composting, waste minimisation, rain water harvesting and recycling to reduce and limit waste going to landfill. We have seen the public groundswell for plastic bags out of supermarkets and straws out of bars, who knows what consumers will turn their gaze to next? If it’s something your business relies on now it could be hard to phase out quickly. I would urge brewers and hospitality businesses out there to look at their own processes with an operational lens which incorporates sustainability, so it becomes part of your everyday activities. Not only will you be doing some social and environment good, you will likely save money long term and your customers will welcome it with open arms.
Pic credit: Messe Düsseldorf/ctillmann
Toast Martinborough EVENT NEWS
What’s on OCTOBER 15-17
EVENT NEWS
Dates set for ProWein ProWein has announced that ProWein 2020 will take place from March 15–17, 2020 in Düsseldorf. Those working on a shorter horizon can start planning for the 2019 fair, to be held from March 17–19 next year. The 2019 fair will be a special 25th anniversary edition of this industry-only trade event for wine and spirits. Roughly 6,800 exhibitors from around the world are expected to take part next March. All relevant winegrowing regions will be represented, as will nearly 400 spirits makers. ProWine China will be taking place from November 13–15, 2018 in Shanghai. The next ProWine Asia is scheduled for May 7–10, 2019 in Hong Kong, followed a year later (March 31–April 3, 2020) by its sister ProWine Asia event in Singapore. For more information, visit www.prowein.com
4 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
Marlborough Wine Show Marlborough www.marlboroughwineshow.co.nz
OCTOBER 21
First Light Wine & Food Festival Gisborne www.firstlightwineandfood.co.nz
NOVEMBER 2-11
F.A.W.C (Food & Wine Classic) Hawke’s Bay www.fawc.co.nz
NOVEMBER 3
Hobbiton Beer Festival Matamata www.hobbintours.com
NOVEMBER 3
The New Zealand Cider Festival Nelson www.nzciderfestival.co.nz
NOVEMBER 3
New Zealand Wine of the Year Awards dinner TSB Arena, Wellington www.nzwine.com
NOVEMBER 10
The Dunedin Craft Beer & Food Festival Dunedin www.dunedinbeerfest.co.nz
NOVEMBER 18
Toast Martinborough Martinborough www.toastmartinborough.co.nz
SPONSORED NEWS
Winners of the 2018 NZ Whisk(e)y Awards (The Drammys) announced As the principal sponsor of the 2018 New Zealand Whisk(e)y Awards, ‘The Drammys’, Super Liquor is excited to announce this year’s winning whiskies. The Drammys were created to showcase the best whiskies from around the world in the New Zealand market, including international whiskies but also local distilleries, with an objective to drive awareness for the category. The Drammys kicked off with an impressive submission list of 110 whiskies globally, from Scotland, Japan, America, Canada, Australia, Ireland and New Zealand. The judging took place in August with an experienced judging panel of distillers and international brand ambassadors. With a vast range of whiskies entered, they were split into nine categories based on their characteristics. The calibre was very high this year with a total of two Gold Medals, nine Silver Medals and 33 Bronze Medals. Award-winning whiskies will have the opportunity to proudly display either a Gold, Silver or Bronze medal from The Drammys on their whisk(e) y bottles. Gold Medal winners will be featured in Super Liquor’s marketing campaign in the lead up to Christmas. “After the huge success of this first year of The Drammys, with the range of whiskies judged and medals awarded, we are excited to see the growth of this category in the New Zealand market,” says Bryan Cherry, Marketing and Merchandising Manager for Super Liquor Holdings. To congratulate the award-winners of the first year of The Drammys, join the inaugural The Drammys New Zealand Whisk(e)y Awards Celebration. This will be held in October 2018 in Auckland, and will be a chance to taste the amazing award-winning Whiskies from each category. Register your interest by emailing: whiskyawards@superliquor.co.nz.
Details for The Drammys New Zealand Whisk(e)y Awards 2019 will be announced in February 2019, which will include a line-up of International and New Zealand judges, masterclasses and an awards event. For any feedback or information please email: whiskyawards@superliquor.co.nz or visit nzwhiskeyawards.co.nz. Congratulations to the award winners and thank you to the many suppliers who presented the brands, the Judges and Principal Sponsor for the inaugural NZ Whisk(e)y Awards 2018.
Gold Medal winner Lagavulin Single Malt Gold Medal winner GlenDronach Parliament 21YO
THE AWARD WINNERS SCOTLAND PEATED
Gold Medal Lagavulin Single Malt Lagavulin Single Malt Scotch Whisky is created atop a beautiful, weather-beaten and wildly romantic island, deriving character from the rough conditions, peaty water supply and the heavily peated barley. An unusually long fermentation and maturation and the slowest distillation of any Islay malt delivers a full intense experience. Silver Medals • Kilchoman Sanaig • Port Charlotte Islay Barley 2011 • Laphroaig Select Cask • Laphroaig Quarter Cask Bronze Medals • Benriach Birnie Moss • Benriach 10YO Curiositas • Port Charlotte 10 Scottish Barley
SCOTLAND AGED 15 YEARS+
Gold Medal GlenDronach Parliament 21YO Named ‘parliament’ after the colony, or ‘parliament’ of rooks that nest in the trees overlooking the distillery for almost 200 years. Created by combining the finest Oloroso Sherry butts and Pedro Ximenez Sherry puncheons, this sublime Sherried single malt is bottled at 48% ABV.
Bronze Medals • Johnnie Walker Platinum • Balblair 1991 Vintage • GlenDronach 18YO Allardice • The Balvenie Doublewood 17 YO • Glenfarclas 21YO • Benromach 15YO
SCOTLAND 8-15 YO
Silver Medal • Bowmore 12YO Bronze Medals • Auchentoshan 12YO • GlenDronach 12YO • Bowmore 15YO • Talisker 10YO
INTERNATIONAL USA
Bronze Medals • Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel • Maker’s Mark 46 • Woodford Reserve Double Oak • Woodford Reserve Rye
SCOTLAND BLENDED
INTERNATIONAL AGED
Silver Medal • Johnnie Walker Black Bronze Medal • Chivas Mizunara
Bronze Medal • The Quiet Man Single Malt 12YO
INTERNATIONAL WORLD
SCOTLAND SINGLE MALT
Bronze Medals • Glen Grant 10YO • Tamnavulin Double Oak • Glenfiddich Project XX
INTERNATIONAL IRISH
Silver Medal • Bushmills 10YO Bronze Medals • Jameson Black Barrel • Jameson Caskmates IPA • Jameson Cooper’s Croze • Glendalough Double Barrel Irish Whisky • Connemara Original
Silver Medals • Thomson Two Tone • Thomson Manuka Smoke Single Malt Bronze Medals • Crown Royal • Mars Iwai • Mars Iwai Tradition • 23rd Street Hybrid Whisky • Thomson South Island Peat Single Malt
TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 5
NEWS
Moa Southern Alps White IPA crowned champion at Brewers Guild Awards New Zealand craft brewer Moa has taken home the overall Champion Beer Award, the highest award for individual beer, with their Southern Alps White IPA at the Brewers Guild of NZ Awards 2018. Officially entered as a Pale-American-Belgo-style Ale, the beer is a perfect marriage between a Belgian Wit and an American Strong Pale Ale. Moa’s Head Brewer, David Nicholls, first brewed the White IPA in 2013 as a one-off for Nelson-based MarchFest and because of its popularity, the beer quickly became a full-time member of the Moa Range. “We are both humbled and excited to make what was judged the best beer at the awards,” says Nicholls. “It’s in the exact same format and the same brew that consumers can buy off the shelf right now.” Brewed with Vienna and Pale Wheat malts and dry hopped with a blend of Nelson Sauvin and Citra hops, the Southern Alps White IPA has a strong citrus and lemongrass aroma. Its depth of complex flavour comes from the use of Belgian ale yeast and coriander for spicing. The White IPA also won a Gold trophy in the US Ale category, alongside the overall Champion award. Executive Chairman of Moa, Geoff Ross, says winning such an award is testament to Moa’s great team and expertise lead by David. “It’s also a reflection of the momentum that Moa has in the market at the moment,” he says. Moa has shown leadership in craft brewing for 15 years and say the secret to success is being agile as consumer drinking habits change and evolve. “Currently, we are seeing a continued trend for Kiwis to drink less but better beer and move away from the idea that one beer will fit with all occasions,” says Nicholls. “As consumers are becoming more educated about the beer they drink they are looking for more variety and while the hop flavour is on trend right now, we predict that beers with traditionally low ABV - like Summer Ales, Milds and Berliner Weisse - will become more popular. “The challenge is to expand on ranges of beer that are regularity consumed and educate consumers on what good fresh beer tastes like,” he says. In addition to winning the overall award, Moa Brewing Company scooped 1 Gold, 1 Silver and 6 Bronze Medals.
BREWERS GUILD OF NZ AWARDS 2018 CHAMPION WINNERS:
Gladfield Malt Champion New Zealand Exhibitor Bach Brewing Company Cryer Malt Champion New Zealand Beer Moa Brewing Company NZ Hops Champion Large New Zealand Brewery Lion BSW Enpac Champion Medium New Zealand Brewery Parrotdog Kegstar Champion Small New Zealand Brewery Fork Brewing Enpac Champion New Zealand Manufacturer Steam Brewing Bitani Australia Champion International Brewery Samuel Adams
TROPHY WINNERS:
International Lager Lion BSW - Speight’s Triple Hop Pilsner New Zealand Lager DB - Monteith’s Original Ale British Ale Lion BSW - Mac’s Sassy Red European Ale Kereru Brewing - Feijoa Weisse US Ale Moa Brewing Company - Moa Southern Alps White IPA Pale Ale Bach Brewing - Billfish APA Strong Pale Ale Lakeman Brewing - Hairy Hop Stout & Porter Boundary Road - Jack the Sipper Wheat & Other Grain Lion BSW - Mac’s Great White Flavoured Aotearoa Breweries - Mata Cola Cuz Specialty, Experimental, Aged, Barrel, Wood-Aged 8 Wired Brewing - Lokomotiv Merlot Cider and Perry Zeffer Cider Company - Demi-Sec Fruit or Flavoured Cider or Perry Good George Brewing - Good George Doris Cider Packaging Sprig & Fern Brewery - Sprig & Fern Range For the 2018 catalogue of results, visit www.brewersguild.org.nz
Brewer Dave Nicholls (centre) holding the trophy
6 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
SPONSORED NEWS
BRB goes Bottoms Up at Queenstown’s
An innovative beer system has launched at Queenstown’s iconic 1876 as part of a new partnership with Independent Liquor New Zealand (ILNZ). The BRB (Boundary Road Brewery) Bottoms Up beer system at 1876 is believed to be the first use of the US invention in New Zealand. It was installed at the popular Queenstown venue in early September as part of the new agreement, which sees 1876 offering ILNZ’s domestic and international beer and cider portfolio, including pouring five BRB products through the unique new hands-free system. Owner of 1876, Craig Eccles, says the Bottoms Up system benefits his staff and customers. “It gives a keg yield of around 98%, so eliminates wastage and increases revenue. It’s super-fast and efficient as it allows multiple pours at once, so staff can check IDs, transact the purchase or place a food order during the time that would normally be spent pouring the beer. It’s also precisely calibrated, so customers get a ‘Perfect Pour’ every time and spend less time waiting for it!” The system uses specially designed glasses, each with a metalringed hole in the bottom that get sealed with a magnet. When the glass is placed on a Bottoms Up dispenser the nozzle releases the magnet and the dispenser automatically fills the glass from the bottom up to a precise pre-programmed volume. When the bartender removes the glass to serve it, the magnet drops to the bottom and seals it again. ILNZ District Sales Manager, Daniel Paine, says the system is ideal for the BRB brand. “BRB is always transforming pack formats and varieties on offer to be new and interesting, so the Bottoms Up system allows an innovative platform to showcase that thinking within the onpremise channel.” He is also looking forward to 1876 presenting ILNZ’s portfolio to Queenstown’s thriving traveler market. “Our beer and cider brands now on offer at 1876 really are an ‘Around the world with 1876 and Independent Liquor.’ Customers will be able to enjoy Estrella Damm from Spain, Asahi from Japan, Pilsner Urquell from the Czech Republic, Carlsberg and Somersby from Denmark, Kingfisher from India, Mountain Goat from Australia and the great New Zealand offerings in BRB and Founders,” he says. Craig Eccles is excited about the potential of the BRB Bottoms Up system and the new ILNZ offerings at 1876 as the busy summer season approaches. “We are really enthusiastic about our new brands we have on offer. ILNZ has supported the 1876 team in the changeover, providing on-site training and product knowledge so our staff can continue to deliver the best possible service to customers at 1876.” 1876 recently celebrated its seventh year of trading, and is located in Queenstown’s historic old courthouse building on Ballarat Street.
TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 7
EVENT NEWS
Counting down to The NZ Cider Festival The New Zealand Cider Festival is just a month away and this year it’s bigger and better than ever. Returning for the third consecutive year and with more cider makers than ever before, The NZ Cider Festival is the perfect place to relax with friends and family, and enjoy the Nelson sunshine. There will be live music from the likes of The Slacks, Sun City Soul and Miles Calder, as well as a range of informative talks and a selection of games for all ages. Typically made with just apples and yeast, cider makers are able to produce a whole array of different styles: pale or amber; sweet or dry; still or sparkling. It can also be flavoured with fruits, spices and all sorts of other delicious ingredients, and its versatility is just one of the reasons why cider is gaining popularity. Heritage? Perry? Scrumpy? There is a whole world of cider out there, and there is so much to learn; how it’s made, what it’s made from and how best to drink it. Gabe Cook aka ‘The Ciderologist’ is a global cider guru and has spent the last decade working across the globe in the cider industry; first in the UK, then New Zealand and now all around the world. Not only will Gabe be leading some of the talks on the day, he will also be involved in the lead up to the festival. For the very first time in 2018, Nelson will be hosting a selection of ‘Cider Festival
Cider cocktail making classes with Cod & Lobster Fringe Events’, which will stretch out the cider experience even further. Between 31st October and 4th November there will be a range of activities, from Gabe Cook’s sensory tasting sessions to cider cocktail making classes with the award-winning team at Cod & Lobster Brassiere. After a sell-out event last year, you don’t want to miss out on a day spent listening to chilled live tunes and learning about cider whilst sipping on a wide range of samples and tasting local artisan food. Packed with fun for the whole family, make sure you come to visit the unique historic Founders Heritage Park for New Zealand’s only festival dedicated to cider. Tickets available from just $28+ booking fee (includes a souvenir glass). For more information, visit www.nzciderfestival.com
THE CIDER MAKERS • Old Mout Cider • Peckham’s Cidery & Orchard • Zeffer Cider Co • Rochdale Cider • Good George Brewing • Tutū Cider
• Steel Press Cider • Harvest Cidery • Left Branch Cider • Three Wise Birds • The Mussel Inn • Paynter’s Cider
8 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
• Bohemian Cider • Scoundrels and Rogues • Crooked Cider • South Cider Newtown • Sprig & Fern • Forecast Cider
Gabe Cook aka ‘The Ciderologist’
Pink
FEATURE
In the From Rosé wine, to pink-hued gin, to blush cocktails, Tash McGill takes a look at the explosion of pink drinks.
D
id it start with the Rosé, Frosé or Brosé? We know for certain the blush hues and tones of ‘millennial pink’ have dominated summer drinking trends since 2015 and that growth is not about to slow down. For example, global sales of Rosé wine are forecast to exponentially grow by 2021, reaching more than 250m cases and outperforming the 14m-case growth it achieved between 2011 and 2016. These are not new drinkers - in fact, growth is largely being fuelled by established wine markets such as the US, France, South Africa, Denmark and Australia. The rush for pink drinks has signaled another tidal shift in consumer behaviour, sexuality and gender conversations, although perhaps more subtly than expected. The Crawford family of Kim Crawford Wines originally released the ‘Pansy! Rosé’, aimed at acknowledging and winning over the lucrative gay market in 2002. Fifteen years later, the Pansy! Rosé label has been retired; and Rosé is for everybody, regardless of their sexuality. Bursting with strawberry, watermelon and citrus flavours, it’s hard to go past a dry Rosé on a long summer day. Social media is swamped with hashtags like #roseallday and #roseandshine. But as our love of all things pink has grown, there’s plenty of competition for your pink drink of the moment.
THE PINK ESSENTIALS
Pink gin has been on the scene, although sometimes hard to find, since the late 19th Century. Traditionally made by blending Plymouth gin with Angostura bitters which gave it a pinky-orange shade, today’s variations are more likely to be fruit or floral-led, lending themselves to botanical elements such as hibiscus flower, cherry blossom, raspberry, rhubarb, rose petal, rosehip and even pink peppercorns. Well-known consumer brands such as Gordon’s, Beefeater and Greenall’s have all released pink variations that range from raspberry-led fruity bombs to more subtle blush and pepper flavours. Capitalising on the market growth from 2014 to 2017, Beefeater London Pink was launched in time for the Northern Hemisphere summer, where hordes of Brits and tourists could be seen sipping pink gin and tonics garnished with strawberry and mint beside the Thames and during the breaks at Wimbledon. A far cry from the early 2000s when brands made deliberate plays for the so-called ‘pink dollar’, Beefeater stated their intention to target ‘gender-neutral’ Millennials. For smaller brands, such as New Zealand’s Blush Gin, it’s less of a social statement and more about creating a product people love. Co-founders Elliot McClymont and Chris Thomas were brought together by a shared love of good food, wine and spirits. While making a rhubarb crumble, they stuck some rhubarb and gin in a jam jar and the rest is history. “We tried lots of spirit infusions before creating a beautiful pink jam jar that didn’t let our attention turn to anything else,” says McClymont. “We then refined that recipe 47 times over in which many sleepless nights were encountered trying to get the perfect balance.” That rhubarb and juniper combination has certainly proved itself worth the perseverance with the first release selling out in a matter of weeks. “Our batches are a little bigger now but the same level of passion and excitement goes into every bottle. We want to bring a new gin experience, to a wider audience than ever before,” he says. Turning the tables on traditional drinking gender stereotypes is nothing new; by now we know that women have been the fastest growing segment for the whisky market. Women are also gaining influence as consumers and brewers in the beer sector, where it should come as no surprise – pink is in style and season. >>
Global sales of Rosé wine are forecast to exponentially grow by 2021
Blush co-founders Elliot McClymont and Chris Thomas
Blush Gin
TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 9
FEATURE PINK BEER?
Yes, it’s a thing and has been around for centuries, as Belgian beer lovers will know. Kriek Lambics and Framboise are top-fermented beers traditionally brewed using real fruit – usually sour cherries or raspberries. When making this style of beer traditionally, you would add sugar after the first fermentation, then re-ferment in wooden casks. To make a fruit beer, simply add the fruit or macerated fruit syrup instead of the sugar. The result is usually dry and slightly sour, rather than cloyingly sweet and depending on the brew, gives a bright-red to pink hue. Related to the sour Belgian family of beer styles is ‘Gose’, another top-fermented style where the recipe calls for at least 50% malted wheat. The traditional regional style also calls for coriander and salt! The result is a traditionally lemon-citrus heavy drop, with a herbal nose. In recent times, the Gose style of beer is what local brewers have been experimenting with as a base for their cherry, raspberry, strawberry and cranberry experiments to produce pink or Rosé beers. This will be a trend for craft brewers through the 2018 season and beyond, as some are saying the Gose trend will surpass the current IPA obsession. Of course, if you can make pink beer, you can make pink cider. Monteith’s produces a sparking pink Rosé cider in a 750ml edition, perfect for backyard parties where you wanted something a little lighter in alcohol.
Make your own Frosé using Rosé and strawberry syrup
Pink Lady cocktail
HIBISCUS MANGO ICED TEA INGREDIENTS:
• 20 ml MONIN Hibiscus syrup
• 15 ml MONIN Mango syrup • 30ml gin • 180 ml cold water
METHOD:
Combine ingredients in a tall glass filled with ice cubes. Stir and garnish with lime wedges.
10 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
“The rush for pink drinks has signaled another tidal shift in consumer behaviour, sexuality and gender conversations”
FEATURE
THE PINK COCKTAIL ESSENTIALS
While the Cosmopolitan’s garish pink was made overwhelming popular in the 1990s, thanks to Sex and the City, it is far from being the original pink cocktail. That being said, the modern Cosmo (Cointreau, lemon, cranberry and Absolut Citron) does bear a resemblance to a variation on a raspberry and gin variation on a Daisy cocktail from the 1930s. From the same era, the classic Pink Lady featured gin, an egg white and a tablespoon of grenadine, served up in a cocktail glass. Grenadine is a classic back-bar cocktail ingredient that you likely opened once for a party and then let go to waste. Essentially grenadine, like many pink or red-hued modifiers and liqueurs is a red fruit mixed with sugar and heated until it forms a syrup, or blended with pure white spirit to make a liqueur. In this category you find Chambord, Crème de Cassis, Heering Cherry Liqueur that will all add a dash of colour and flavour to your mixed drinks. If you’re looking for a simple pink splash this summer, don’t forget the amber and blush hues of a simple Campari Spritz or even a Campari Gin Fizz. The bright, herbal and bitter Italian red aperitif lends itself to long summer afternoons. If you prefer to lighten the alcohol content this summer, MONIN has long been a supplier of high quality syrups to the consumer and hospitality industry. It would be easy to only recognise them for the caramel, hazelnut and sweet syrups used by cafés to create an increasing variety of coffee beverages. However, the company was formed in a small town in central France in 1912, specifically with the purpose of supplying high quality fruit syrups to bars and restaurants in France. MONIN is now a trusted global supplier of high-quality products, recognized in the best bars the world over. They make exceptional versions of all the classic flavours you might desire – grenadine for a Pink Lady, cranberry syrup for your own Cosmopolitan and even strawberry syrup. If you wanted to make your own Frosé, simply take crushed ice shaken with 200ml of Rosé wine, 30ml of MONIN Strawberry syrup and splash of lime. Top with soda water and serve. In addition, this summer will see MONIN Hibiscus syrup available in the New Zealand market. This flower has been grown centuries around the rim of the Indian and Pacific oceans and is one of the floral elements used in Blush Gin. In syrup form, its colour is deep auburn red and while it has historically been used for its medicinal properties, the MONIN syrup captures the aroma and delicate flavours of the hibiscus flower. To really celebrate the upcoming season, try using this syrup to add a little pink your favourite cocktail. n TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 11
DrinkPink ON THE SHELF
Take your pick from a few of our favourite must-try pink offerings.
GORDON’S PREMIUM PINK DISTILLED GIN
NO.1 FAMILY ESTATE ROSÉ
Inspired by an original recipe from the 1800s, Gordon’s Premium Pink Distilled Gin is perfectly crafted to balance the refreshing taste of Gordon’s with the natural sweetness of raspberries, strawberries and tangy redcurrants, coming together in a blushing pink tone. Made from only the finest handpicked juniper berries and real fruit flavours that are naturally infused and distilled, Gordon’s Pink Gin offers a sweeter twist to your classic gin and tonic. 700ml RRP $41.99 250ml RTD 4-pack RRP $14.99 Contact: 027 282 7284 www.lionco.com
This exceptional Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and celebrates the superb climate of Marlborough. A fresh, youthful and precise bouquet, the wine offers a seamless balance of subtle cherry and almond hints, combined with a fine acidity. Pretty crushed strawberry flavours and hints of yeasty autolysis. Dry and elegant with a fine and silky mousse. This graceful wine leaves a lasting impression of opulence and splendour. RRP $47.00 Contact: (03) 572 9876 www. no1familyestate.co.nz
FRÜLI STRAWBERRY BEER
SUNDOWN PINK GIN
Real strawberry juice and wheat beer, Früli Strawberry Beer is smooth, well-rounded and packed with natural fruit juice. With an ABV of 4.1%, Früli is not too challenging and just enough to offset the natural sweetness of the juice. Coriander and orange peel are added as in all white beers to enhance the bitter/sweet taste. Früli is sweeter than ordinary beers, with just a hint of bitterness and a little citrus zest that balances out the palate. Ideal for those seeking a totally different beer experience or looking for something less bitter with the smell and taste of strawberries! POA Contact: Michael on (027) 650 2888 www.worldfusion.co.nz
A refreshing pre-mix gin cocktail, locally made in sunny Tauranga. A traditional dry gin made with Kawakawa, Horopito and combined with 100% natural flavours of raspberry, rose and rhubarb to make a delicious cocktail with no preservatives and low in sugar. Perfect for summer and best enjoyed over ice when the sun is out. 4-pack RRP $14.99 Contact: matt@ premiumliquor.co.nz www.premiumliquor. co.nz
12 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
BLUSH RHUBARB INFUSED PREMIUM NEW ZEALAND GIN
Handcrafted locally by a team of two, fresh tangy rhubarb meets juniper and licorice root to create a new style gin experience that appeals to a wider audience than ever before. We’ve created a gin that’s lively, pleasant and can be enjoyed over ice. Blush is here to have a little fun. Let the juniper and rhubarb dance on your taste buds. Keep an eye out for our Blush Vodka, rumour has it it’s launching soon! RRP $85.00 Contact: Elliot@BlushGin.co.nz or (021) 612 165; Chris@BlushGin. co.nz or (021) 119 5613 www.blushgin.co.nz
MONIN HIBISCUS SYRUP
This legendary flower has been grown centuries around the rim of the Indian and Pacific oceans. Vibrant and eye-catching, it has historically been used for its medicinal properties, and has a romantic image. Today, the Hibiscus is an edible flower synonymous with delicacy and most often consumed as an infusion. MONIN has captured these subtle aromas in a new Hibiscus syrup. RRP $24.99 Contact: Tickety-Boo on sales@tickety-boo.co.nz www.tickety-boo.co.nz
TASTING NOTES
Pinot Gris BY CAMERON DOUGLAS MS
BIO:
Cameron Douglas is New Zealand’s first and only Master Sommelier. He is a Senior Lecturer at AUT University in Auckland, local and international wine judge, wine commentator and wine educator as well as a speaker and presenter in New Zealand and internationally. Cameron is also an examiner with the Court of Master Sommeliers Worldwide. He writes the wine lists for a variety of establishments including Mekong Baby, Nanam Republic and Michelin-Starred New York establishment The Musket Room.
W
hat makes Pinot Gris so popular is, in part, its very predictable and approachable characteristics. Fleshy textures, a core of fruit with flavours of fresh apples and pear, quince, a whitefleshed stone fruit layer, a little spice, and refreshing, but not too high acidity. Pinot Gris is also very food-friendly, as it marries well with menu items which have soft textures and mildly intense flavours. A creamy fish pasta with a little olive, fresh parmesan and grind of black pepper is an ideal match. Wholemeal pasta is great with Gris that has an oak component. At the heart of quality Pinot Gris in New Zealand are the winemakers who have discovered how their vineyard works best for the variety. Lower cropping levels help with a balanced level of alcohol and acidity, pushing forward the key flavours described. Gris seems to like natural fermentation as well, which can often add a vibrant texture and with some extra time on lees a honeysuckle, smoky gingerlike character can be harnessed. Inoculated ferments are more common. Additional techniques may include wholebunch or destemmed fruit (or both) how
much skin contact to allow and if oak is used – how much and for how long. Gone are the days where all Pinot Gris were steel tank fermented, fined and filtered then into bottle for immediate sale. Is Pinot Grigio (Italy) is the same variety as Pinot Gris (Alsace)? Yes. The main difference being the clone (a variant of the parent grape) of Gris used and how the fruit responds to the soil it is grown in and the effects of climate. Reading the back label or a quick visit to the producer’s website can also reveal that some examples have juice from other varieties notably Gewürztraminer and Riesling in the mix. These blends make some very interesting wines to try, but Gris should taste like Gris first. Expect many 2018 Pinot Gris to be released for spring, the quality of wines should be very good overall, 2018 is a pretty good vintage, and as always try before you buy if possible and aim to eat something delicious while imbibing. n
Wines are scored out of 100 points and are listed in no particular order. Numbers are not indicative of a ranking.
ONE
ROCKBURN CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2016
Delightful bouquet with whitefleshed fruits of nectarine and peach, apples and pears then white spice. Dry, fleshy and fruity on the palate with a firm youthful texture, medium+ acidity and layers of complexity. A delightful and tasty example. Great on its own and with food. Drink now and through 2022. Points 93 RRP $29.00 Distributor: Hancocks Wine Beer & Spirit Merchants Phone (0800) 699 463 www.rockburn.co.nz
TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 13
TASTING NOTES
TWO
THREE
FOUR
FIVE
WOOING TREE CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2018
DOMAIN ROAD CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT GRIS 2018
MARTINBOROUGH VINEYARD TE TERA MARTINBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2018
VIDAL RESERVE HAWKE’S BAY PINOT GRIS 2018
Great bouquet of Gris with ripe white-fleshed fruits aromas with a distinctive minerality and soft leesy spice layer. Just dry on the palate with a flavours of ripe pear and apple, some quince, lees and almond notes. A light barrel spice suggestions highlights some oak use. Plenty of acidity with a crisp and refreshing finish. Drink now and through 2022. Points 93 RRP $32.00 Distributor: Wooing Tree Phone: (03) 445 4142 www.wooingtree.co.nz
Complex and enticing bouquet of Gris with minerals and spices, ripe white-fleshed fruit aromas and spice. Fruity, varietal and fleshy on the palate with a lovely texture, balance and finish. Flavours reflect the nose with medium+ acidity, spice, white fleshed fruit flavours and lengthy persistent finish. A lovely example. Drink now and through 2023. Points 93 RRP $26.00 Distributor: Co Pilot Phone: (09) 412 9137 www.domainroad.co.nz
Plush, ripe, fruity and attractive bouquet of Gris with quince and white flowers, pear and stony mineral notes. Dry, white spices and a note of ginger with some leesy layers and ripe core of fruit. Medium+ acidity and weight, balanced and well made with a lengthy finish. Drink now and through 2022. Points 92 RRP $19.99 Distributor: Villa Maria Phone: (09) 255 0697 www.vidal.co.nz
FIVE
FOUR
THREE
TWO
14 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
Lovely bouquet with florals, soft white-fleshed fruits and gentle spice complexity. Dry on the palate, medium weight with a tense youthful texture and flavours of citrus, Bosc pear, apple and lees derived spices. As the wine warms and opens up, the textures and flavours concentrate revealing some complexity and richness. Balanced and well made. Drink now and through 2023. Points 93 RRP $24.99 Distributor: Lion Phone: (09) 347 2000 www.martinborough-vineyard. co.nz
TASTING NOTES
SIX
SEVEN
EIGHT
NINE
MATAHIWI ESTATE WAIRARAPA PINOT GRIS 2018
ASTROLABE DURVILLEA MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2017
VIDAL ESTATE HAWKE’S BAY PINOT GRIS 2018
HUNTER’S MARLBOROUGH PINOT GRIS 2017
Fruity, fleshy, ripe and distinctive with a mineral and ripe fruits bouquet. Flavours of Asian pears, apples and quince, medium+ acidity, a light leesy layer adds a ginger spice moment. Satin and coarse silk textures, lengthy finish. Well made with best drinking from today and through 2021. Points 91 RRP $22.99 Distributor: Matahiwi Estate Phone: (06) 370 1000 www.matahiwi.co.nz
Crunchy, fleshy, fleshy and ripe with flavours of green pear and apple, a leesy ginger spice note and floral note. Medium+ acidity, firm texture and medium+ length. Dry on the palate emphasising spice and texture, then fruit concentration and flavour. Drink now and through 2021. Points 91 RRP $15.00 Distributor: Astrolabe Phone: (03) 577 6794 www.astrolabewines.co.nz
Focused, ripe, fruity and concentrated bouquet and flavours of Gris. Spicy white peach and Asian pear combinations, apple and a touch of cider. Dry, fruity and balanced on the palate with medium+ acidity, light creamy texture, some white pepper spice and lengthy finish. Well made. Drink now and through 2022. Points 90 RRP $15.99 Distributor: Villa Maria Phone: (09) 255 0697 www.vidal.co.nz
Aromas and flavours of crunchy pear, red apple and quince. Just dry as it hits the palate, with medium+ acidity, coarse silk texture and medium weight. Finishing dry with firm crunchy white fruit flavours, a touch of spice and moderate finish. Balanced and well made. Serve as an aperitif or with entrés. Best from today and through 2022. Points 88.00 RRP $19.90 Distributor: EuroVintage Phone: (03) 572 8489 www.hunters.co.nz
NINE
EIGHT
SEVEN
SIX
TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 15
SPIRIT ON SHOW
First
Port
of call
Spirits writer Tash McGill explores the history of port and why it’s time to break out the crystal and give it a go.
I
f the idea of sipping a port seems synonymous with images of leather-filled smoking lounges, Churchill cigars and a somewhat Victorian picture, no one could blame you. After all, it was the British who perfected it. However, while post-dinner and with a cigar are both excellent times to enjoy port, why limit port’s delectable sweetness and rich complexity to that? Port is a fortified wine, meaning a spirit (in this instance brandy) is added to wine as a method of stabilising and preserving it, which benefits the producers by creating a more consistent and shelf-stable product but also benefits consumers thanks to the added alcohol and flavour content. If we wander back a little to the 17th century, the British have begun repeatedly going to war with the French. This creates a small supply chain problem, as France was Britain’s primary supplier of wine. As trading with France was boycotted, the British had to look further afield to keep the barrels rolling in. Those sea voyages were much longer than the dash across the channel and so to prevent the wine spoiling, history fondly remembers a pair of brothers who stumbled across the technique of adding grape brandy to the wine in hopes of preserving it for longer. It was the simplest and cheapest way of keeping the wine stable for long enough to get it to England. It worked. By the time the barrels arrived at various English ports, the rich and syrupy blend had taken on some characteristics of the oak, balancing the sweetness and creating a complex and moreish drink. It was over the following centuries that the British would go on to perfect this port-making technique and why so many brands now carry English sounding names, like Taylor’s and Graham’s. By the turn of the 18th century, taxation on Portuguese wines had been reduced and port would become more popular than ever, being blended to perfection before the long sea voyage. 16 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
True port wine is blended in Porto, Portugal
SPIRIT ON SHOW Port belongs to the family of wines coming from Southern Europe and the coast of Africa; madeira, sherry, marsala and vermouth, but it really is king of the category. True port wine even has a geographical demarcation in the Douro Valley in northern Portugal, where the wine is produced before being blended in Porto. And just like it’s siblings, it can be consumed neat, used as a modifier in cocktails or in cooking for deglazing and additional flavour. It is characterised by bright acidity, residuals sugars and nuttiness. And, in case you thought it was as simple as taking Portuguese wine and adding any old grape brandy to it – well, you’d need to think again. The grape spirit, while being called brandy, is unlike any commercially available consumer product and it’s crucial that it’s added at the right stage of the fermentation process. Added to the wine at just the right time, it halts the fermentation, preventing the residual sugars from converting to alcohol. The finished result is a sweeter, drier style of wine with between 18 – 20% alcohol. There are many different styles of port, all suited to different uses and occasions.
RUBY PORT
Colheita barrels
Many port brands now carry English sounding names, like Taylor’s
“Sipping a port seems synonymous with images of leather-filled smoking lounges, Churchill cigars and a somewhat Victorian picture”
The most common and least expensive style to produce. You can still find three-litre flagons in the wine section of the supermarket – and it maintains a bright red colour because it’s been blended in steel vats preventing oxidisation. While a premium ruby port might go on to be aged in oak for four to six years, this is not a port that typically ages well but it does make a delicious punch or cocktail.
TAWNY PORT
As ruby port is named for the bright red hue, so tawny port is named for the deep amber and brown tones it gains from aging in wooden barrels, getting plenty of exposure to oxidation and evaporation. This oxidation process is also where tawny port gets a nuttier, medium dry flavour and finish. The aged port is then blended to the house style before being bottled with or without an age statement. For a delicious cocktail, try making an espresso martini with cold brew coffee, dark rum and a measure of tawny port. The blend of coffee, caramel and nutty notes will elevate this after-dark classic without needing a cigar.
COLHEITA PORT
You can age port, in some instances for up to 20 years, producing an altogether different fortified wine than a ruby, tawny or even white port. A Colheita port is a single vintage tawny port that has been aged for a minimum of seven years. When looking for Colheita bottles, you’ll see the year of vintage on the label. This is a drink to be savoured and appreciated, with an elegant and refined extension of the tawny port palate. Due to the long period of time it spends in the barrel, it won’t age much in the bottle, but it won’t deteriorate either. You’ll sometimes see the Colheita labelled as a single harvest, which is buoying it’s growing popularity as a style.
AND MORE…
Croft Pink Port
There are other varieties of port also – you can find white styles made from white grapes and mostly bottled at a younger age. These are excellent served chilled on a warm day or in a cocktail. These can be crisp and drier in style. Try a White Port & Tonic, in a 1:1 ratio over ice and with a dash of orange or citrus bitters. And if you can’t resist adding a little more pink to the fridge, producer Croft pioneered a Pink or Rosé style of port which has now been accepted and adopted by a number of producers. Or you can stick with the pinnacle ports – a vintage port shouldn’t be confused for an aged port. A vintage port will be aged in oak for 18-24 months before being bottled. With such a short spell in the barrel, it continues to age in the bottle. A vintage port expression can make or break a producer’s reputation in any given year. For the particularly adventurous and connoisseur offering, it’s worth exploring a crusted or unfiltered port – these need time to breathe and decant before consuming. Break out your best decanter and crystal and be prepared to take your time in some ritual, with or without the cigar. n TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 17
BEER FEATURE
BockBeer With so many styles to try, there’s bound to be a Bock beer to suit everyone’s tastes. Beer writer John Oszajca takes us through the options…
U
nlike the majority of beer styles, whose origins are typically shrouded in a healthy dose of both myth and mystery, the story of Bock beer has a fairly well documented beginning. The first Bock was brewed way back in the 14th century, in the northern German town of Einbeck. Brewed with the palest malt available at the time, and located within one of Europe’s earliest hop growing regions, it is perhaps no surprise that the beer of Einbeck was some of the most highly regarded in Europe. So much so that in 1612, Duke Maximillian I of Munich, invited Einbeck’s most celebrated brewer (Elias Pichler) to come to Munich (Bavaria’s brewing center) and teach them how to brew it. It is believed that these Munich brewers applied the Einbeck process to their darker, endogenous beers. The result was said to be a beer slightly darker and stronger than the beer of Einbeck. This new Bavarian brew became wildly popular, and over the centuries it settled into what we know today as Bock beer. There are several stories about how the beer ultimately got its name. The most common being that, when pronounced with a Munich accent, Ein-beck, becomes Ein-bock, which then evolved into simpler “Bock” beer. Another common story is that the German word for ram (bock) was given to the beer because of the kick one feels as a result of the beer’s higher-than-average alcohol level. Still another story states that the name evolved from “Ainpoekische”, Bavarian for Einbeck, which was shortened to “Poeckishe Pier” and then Bock Beer.
The first Bock was brewed in the German town of Einbeck
To contact John Oszajca regarding beer features or samples, please email him at john@newzealandbrewer.co.nz
18 | October 2018 | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | TheShout NZ
BEER FEATURE
Garage Project’s Smoke & Mirrors
Harrington’s Ngahere Gold
Sprig & Fern’s Dopplebock
Valkyrie Brewing Company’s Where Is My Mind
TRADITIONAL BOCK BEER
The traditional Bock beer is a stronger than average (approximately 6% – 7% ABV), full-bodied, amber-to-brown, lager. They are rich, complex, and malty beers with notes of toast (and to a lesser extent) caramel and dark fruit, with just enough hop bitterness to balance the malt sweetness. You can expect a traditional Bock to have good clarity and a persistent off-white head. Although fairly rare here in New Zealand, locally brewed examples of traditional Bocks are not altogether impossible to come by. For example, Wellington’s Garage Project offers three variations of (the somewhat) traditional Bock with their Smoke & Mirrors (a smoked Bock), Dark Arts (a coffee Bock), and Qishir (a spiced Bock). However, keep an eye out at your favorite craft beer bar as they do pop up on the tap list from time to time.
HELLES BOCK/MAIBOCK
A relative newcomer to the Bock family is the Helles Bock. Helles (meaning pale) Bock is essentially a strong Helles lager, brewed to Bock strength. Traditionally brewed in the winter and tapped in the spring, these beers are also commonly referred to as Maibock, for their association with the May festivals. However, it is sometimes argued that Helles Bock and Maibock are technically two slightly different subsets of the same beer, with Maibock tending to be slightly more amber in colour than the Helles Bock. The flavour of the Helles Bock is less malty than a traditional Bock, and (though still generally low in hop bitterness) the Helles Bock tends to be the hoppiest of the Bock beers. Perhaps due to the reversal of the seasons here in the Southern Hemisphere, a traditional Maibock tends to be fairly hard to come by in New Zealand. However, for a Kiwi take on the style, you might try Harrington’s Ngahere Gold, said to be the first commercially brewed Helles Bock in New Zealand.
DOPPLEBOCK
First brewed by Bavarian monks, as a clever workaround during periods of fasting, Dopplebocks (meaning double Bock) are essentially a traditional Bock beer brewed to a considerably higher ABV (averaging 7% – 10%). Dopplebocks are complex, malty beers, which are typically darker in colour and rich with melanoidins, toasty flavours, and often notes of dark fruit, while still possessing the smooth characteristics of a lager. Robust and warming, with a slightly sweet finish, a Dopplebock is the perfect fireside beer. A few locally brewed examples of the style that are worth seeking out are Sprig & Fern’s Dopplebock (which just took home a Bronze medal at this year’s Brewers Guild Awards), or The Doctor by Matakana’s Sawmill
“For a style of beer with such a long an enduring history around the world, it is a shame that Bock is not more celebrated here in New Zealand” Sawmill Brewery’s Weizenbock
Brewery; a modern Kiwi classic for the style. Or, for a smoked version of the style, just grab a can of Northend’s Pitboss, you won’t be disappointed.
EISBOCK
As if the Dopplebock wasn’t extreme enough, sometime in the late 19th century, a few Bavarian brewers began concentrating Dopplebock to produce an even stronger concoction. It basically works like this: You begin by making a tasty Dopplebock, then you partially freeze said Dopplebock. Because water freezes faster than alcohol, you end up with a vat with watery ice at the top and strong, highly alcoholic Bock beer at the bottom. By removing the ice (about 25% of the total volume), you end up with a very strong beer that is jam-packed with concentrated malty, toasty, and dark fruit flavours. The resulting Eisbocks tend to range between 9% and 14% ABV, though some modern examples are much higher. The Eisbock’s expensive grist, and the extra steps required to make such a beer, make it an unusually rare style. However, for an untraditional take on the style you might try Where is My Mind, a collaboration beer produced by Raindogs and Valkyrie Brewing Company. Clocking in at a lower-than-usual 8% ABV, this unique Eisbock incorporates a non-traditional dose of late and dry hopping, with a touch of lactose to add sweetness. For a more traditional German Eisbock, keep your eyes peeled at your favorite craft beer bottle shop or online retailer, as they do show up on the shelves from time to time.
WEIZENBOCK
Unlike the other styles of Bock mentioned, which more or less represent a different step in the evolution of a style, the Weizenbock is an altogether different beer. First brewed in 1907 by Schneider Weisse Brauhaus, a Weizenbock is essentially a German Weissbier (wheat beer) brewed to Bock strength. Unlike other Bock beers which are clean tasting lagers, a Weizenboch is brewed using a weizen ale yeast strain. This German wheat beer yeast produces the spicy and fruity characters that make traditional wheat beers so divisive, and sets the Weizenbock apart from the other styles of Bock. To get your hands on a quality German wheat beer that is brewed right here in New Zealand, one needs look no further than Matakana’s Sawmill Brewery who has repeatedly won medals for its much loved Weizenbock. For a style of beer with such a long an enduring history around the world, it is a shame that Bock is not more celebrated here in New Zealand. A fact that is perhaps ironic given the long established affinity that Kiwis have for malt-forward amber lagers. So, dear reader, if you find yourself overwhelmed by the nearly unlimited array of hop-heavy beers on the market, and the pure, unadulterated flavours of malt are what you seek, consider reaching for a Bock on your next visit to the bottle shop. n TheShout NZ | HOSPITALITY BUSINESS | October 2018 | 19