Hospitality February 2021 by The Intermedia Group

NO.769 FEBRUARY 2021

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NO.769 FEBRUARY 2021

CLAIRE ELLIS • PIZZA • AUSTRALIAN SPIRITS

CONTENTS // February

Contents FEBRUARY 2021

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS A look at Crown Sydney’s restaurant precinct. 8 // PRODUCE Apricot season is here for a good time, not a long time. 10 // COLUMN Solotel’s Annette Lacey on becoming a Master of Wine. 12 // BEST PRACTICE Use QR codes for more than just checking in customers.

4 | Hospitality

16 // DRINKS Australian distilleries are growing, but where are we on a global stage? 20 // PROFILE Attica’s Claire Ellis on ceramics and cheffing. 46 // BEHIND THE SCENES Esteban’s scallop aguachile. 48 // EQUIPMENT The bamboo steamer is a kitchen essential. 50 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Fishbowl’s three founders.

Features 24 // HERBS AND SPICES A guide to using native ingredients. 30 // PIZZA Two pros on the intricacies of creating memorable pizzas. 34 // LARGE-SCALE VENUES Is bigger really better? 40 // STOCKS AND SAUCES Foundational skills are a must for all chefs.

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

BENNELONG TIME Sydneysiders (myself included) are ecstatic to have one of our most iconic restaurants back open again. Shiitake noodles with pig belly was a great start. @annabellecloros

A CUT ABOVE THE REST Frankie’s is always a good time, and the new pizza menu by Dan Pepperell is all the more reason to check it out. @hospitalitymagazine

Editor’s note THE SUMMER HOLIDAYS certainly weren’t

becoming one of two Australian Masters of

with Sydney’s gloomy weather and parts of

Wine in 2020 after a decade-long period of

the city in lockdown. Of course, catching

study and we also look at the ins and outs of

a small break and hitting the pause button

creating a great pizza. We also cover mega

for a few weeks was a luxury I definitely

venues, using QR codes for purposes beyond

appreciated. I hope you all managed to eat a

check ins and celebrate the rise of Australian

lobster or two.

distilleries.

There’s no telling what the coming months BREAKFAST AT BORONIA It’s not green eggs and ham, but there was plenty of goodness in the green breakfast bowl from Boronia Kitchen. @madeline.woolway

Solotel’s Annette Lacey pens a column on

what I thought they would be — especially

I hope you enjoy this issue.

will bring, but Hospitality is kicking the year off with a bang in our first edition for 2021.

Annabelle Cloros

Journalist Madeline Woolway talks to Attica’s

Editor

Claire Ellis about combining ceramics and cooking and delves into the world of Indigenous spices and herbs.

Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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February 2021 | 5

IN FOCUS // Crown Sydney

6 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Crown Sydney

The new guard Luxury accommodation giant Crown has unveiled its Sydney restaurant offering.

PHOTOGRAPHY James D Morgan CROWN SYDNEY HAS launched four years

followed by raw and cured meats, breads,

Omakase; a 12-seat experience from

after first breaking ground in Barangaroo.

vegetables, ash grill, steam kettles, wood

second-generation sushi master Ryuichi

It’s been a long wait for the culinary teams,

oven, wood grill and sides.

Yoshii. Nobu devotees will be happy to see

who have worked away behind the scenes

Chef and restaurateur Alessandro

the classics on the menu including the miso

— until now. The luxury resort announced

Pavoni has continued to expand his Sydney

concepts from heavy hitters Ross and Sunny

portfolio with a’Mare, which revolves around

Lusted, Nobu Matsuhisa, Alessandro Pavoni

traditional regional dishes in a fine dining

Meanwhile, Sydneysiders are awaiting

and Clare Smyth last year, with select

setting. Antipasti covers everything from

details on London chef Clare Smyth’s debut

venues launching in late-December.

yellowfin tuna crudo to vitello tonnato, with

Australian restaurant, which promises to

a pasta and risotto selection spanning

highlight local produce. “I look forward

operating, including Crown concepts

classics such as Mancini spaghetti with rock

to spending a lot of time there further

Epicurean, Silks, TWR, 88 Noodle

lobster, cherry tomatoes, garlic, basil and

exploring its food and wine regions to

and Teahouse.

chilli alongside Wagyu Bolognese ragout.

create our menu which will showcase the

A Josper charcoal oven is also in play,

best produce sourced from Australia’s most

Woodcut by The Bridge Room creators Ross

which sees everything from whole fish to a

dedicated farmers and food producers,”

and Sunny Lusted has quickly drawn in diners

1.2kg bistecca of dry-aged Angus beef hit

says Smyth. The restaurant was originally

with three open kitchens that showcase

the grill.

slated to open this month, however an

A total of nine restaurants are now

steam kettles, a Japanese charcoal grill and

Crown is also home to Sydney’s first

black cod and signature tacos.

official date has yet to be announced.

a wood oven. Local produce is front and

Nobu restaurant, which also has locations

centre, and the menu chronicles a journey

in Crown Perth and Crown Melbourne.

include a total of 14 restaurants and bars,

Crown Sydney’s culinary presence will

starting with cold, raw and cured seafood

However, Nobu Sydney also houses Yoshii’s

with four more concepts to launch. ■ February 2021 | 7

PRODUCE // Apricots

1/5 of Australian apricots

are tinned or dried 561 tonnes of local The Romans named the

apricots were

apricot praecocum, which

exported in 2019

means the precocious one

Trees usually fruit by year four

Turkey produces the most apricots globally In 2019, 26 per cent of households purchased apricots

Apricots can tolerate temperatures under 0 degrees Celsius

Apricots

Source of vitamin C and A

The tiny but mighty stone fruit has a small window when it comes to seasonality. Origins

Blenheim, Hunter and Trevatt

is also crucial for quality fruit.

ripening process. Apricots have

The apricot is from the Prunus

are some of the most common

Apricots grow from spurs and

a tangy, sweet taste with citrus

genus. There are a number

varieties produced in Australia;

ripen over a three-week period.

accents, and can be described

of apricot species that fall

however they are not actively

Fruit should be left on the tree

as a cross between a peach and

under the genus, but the most

sold under specific names.

until it can be easily pulled off.

a plum.

common for the apricot tree is

In 2018, The South Australian

known by the scientific name

Research and Development

Prunus armeniaca, which means

Institute released 17 new

Armenian plum.

varieties of apricots as part of a

Apricots are widely believed

breeding program.

to have originated in Armenia;

The peak season is between November and January.

Culinary applications and storage

Flavour profile and appearance

There are myriad ways to

Apricot trees are small and

fresh to stewing, drying,

prepare apricots, from eating

however the exact origins are

Growth and harvest

grow between 8-12 metres

roasting, smoking and salting.

very much debated. Records

Apricot trees thrive in cooler

high. Trees are covered in green

Apricots are used to make

show apricots have been grown

climates, with the majority

leaves that are long and ovate

amardeen in the Middle East,

and cultivated in China and

of fruit grown in Victoria’s

in shape with a serrated margin

which sees apricot flesh spread

Central Asia since 2000BC.

Goulburn Valley and Swan Hill,

and pointed tip. Flowers are

out into a paste that is dried in

Some scholars suggest Chinese

Renmark in South Australia and

pink and white in colour, with

the sun. The sheets are diluted

traders introduced the apricot to

Perth Hills in Western Australia.

full bloom achieved when five

with water to make a drink to

Persia and the Mediterranean,

Cool winters are a necessity for

petals fully open.

break Ramadan. Dried and

with merchants carrying them

the success of the trees, which

along the Silk Road.

lose their leaves and become

inch in diameter and have a

in sweet and savoury Middle

dormant during winter. Late

smooth, velvet surface covered

Eastern cooking, with lamb a

cultivated in Europe, with

winter and early spring is a

in short hairs. Australian apricots

common protein pairing.

the English bringing them to

good time to prune trees, which

are orange in colour, with the

Due to the short time period

Australia. There are many

will encourage new growth

sun-facing side of the fruit

they’re available, apricots are

varieties of apricots grown

before they flower during late

developing a red tinge.

typically turned into jams and

across the globe, especially

spring onwards. Well-drained

in the Middle East. Moorpak,

soil and regular deep watering

Apricots were eventually

8 | Hospitality

Apricots can grow up to 1

The fruit has a unique flavour which changes during the

fresh apricots are used heavily

used as a showcase ingredient in pies and salads. ■

COLUMN // Annette Lacey

A decade-long dream realised The sommelier on becoming a Master of Wine in 2020. WORDS Annette Lacey PHOTOGRAPHY Steven Woodburn MY FIRST TASTE of MV Krug was

I could succeed. Known as the

research paper on a topic of your

time away from family, missing

a taste-defining moment on my

pinnacle of wine knowledge, I

choice must be completed. My

out on socialising due to study

wine journey. For the first time, I

wanted to push myself as far as

paper was titled An Investigation

deadlines and the exam failures

understood wine had dimension,

I could. The MW is an extremely

into Whether the Tasmanian GI

are not remembered fondly. The

layers of flavour and complexity,

challenging course that requires

should be Subdivided. This was

dedication and sacrifice got

and I was hooked. It changed

discipline, rigour, self-motivation

the final hurdle, and I passed the

me to where I am today, and

my direction in hospitality

and the ability to pick yourself

section in September 2020.

the knowledge learned whether

from a restaurant manager

up when you fail. The course,

to a sommelier. The natural

in its entirety, took me 10 years

The MW has dominated my life

away from you. Professionally,

progression was to educate

from start to finish, as I was not

for the past 10 years, but it was

it has helped enormously in my

myself by furthering my studies;

successful and had to resit the

an amazing time looking back.

career, my confidence and the

the world of wine was immense

exam process numerous times.

There were many positives such

industry contacts made.

and I wanted to learn everything I

The exam consists of 36 blind

as the people I met — many now

possibly could.

wines and 13 essays over four

are great friends — the wines

world today, with 28 in Australia,

days. Once the section is passed

tasted and the wine regions

and I feel extremely proud to

successfully, a 10,000-word

of the world I visited. However,

be part of a select group. It

I started the Wine and Spirit Education Trust courses from

you pass or fail cannot be taken

Intermediate through to Diploma and then made the decision

is now my turn to give back

to attempt the Master of Wine

The knowledge learned whether you pass

(MW). I knew it was a daunting

or fail cannot be taken away from you.

process, but I wanted to see if 10 | Hospitality

There are 409 MW’s in the

to wine-passionate people wishing to embark on the MW, to mentor and help them on their own journey. ■

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BEST PRACTICE // QR codes

Scan the room Take advantage of QR codes for better marketing and management. WORDS Ken Burgin

EVERYONE KNOWS ABOUT QR

employment QR code to your

printed menu next to key dishes.

when staff remind customers

codes, especially now they’re

main recruitment page and

The code could take customers

that it’s just three or so short

compulsory for venue check-ins.

liven it up with some short video

to a recipe or even a video of the

questions. Put them on a Google

Most phones can read QR codes

testimonials from employees.

dish being made. Too many codes

Form or use a free app such as

through their cameras, which

Applicants can then click and

can look unsightly on a page, so

Wufoo. Take it one step further

prompts a website or app to open.

fill out an application form; you

one code should lead to a page

and give customers the option

QR codes have been around

now have a 24/7 billboard and

with multiple links.

to join your email list and receive

for many years, and are widely

recruitment site.

used across the globe for multiple

promotions. Even a ‘thanks

Information about your beverage offering

for visiting’ email could make

Distributors and wineries usually

returning to your venue.

for venue marketing, recruitment

Menu information, ordering and service

and daily operations.

Print a QR code on table tents,

have detailed information on their

front door posters and takeaway

websites, so a QR code could

Production and efficiency

Create codes

menus. Scanning the code directs

lead straight to their pages or a

Ordering lists, equipment

Use a service such as QRcode-

customers to a digital version of

dedicated source you’ve set up.

instruction sheets, operating

monkey.com or a QR generator

your menu. Take it a step further

app to link a web page or action

and integrate with an ordering

Nutritional information

routines can all be accessed

to the code. Download the square

app, so diners can browse, click,

There’s a lot of information online

online with a QR code linked

image you create and simply add

choose and pay.

— link directly for people who

to the URL of web pages

require additional clarification

and documents.

purposes. So let’s leverage them

it to menus, signs or stickers.

Include QR codes on printed

a difference to a customer

systems and food safety

marketing material: flyers,

on menu items. A code can help

Opening and closing, COVID

Use your shop window for promotions

postcards and posters can

avoid lengthy dish descriptions

and food safety checklists

all have a QR code added

on your menu while directing

can also put on Google Forms

A couple of QR codes in

for contact details, Facebook

customers to the right place for

or specialist apps such as

the window can lead to a

and Instagram accounts or

detailed dietary info.

iAuditor — a QR sticker on the

welcome video from the owner,

special promotions.

wall will trigger staff throughout

Feedback surveys

your venue. Even hourly

Put a QR code on the table

cleaning checklists behind the

or more information about

Share recipes and food stories

or receipt and ask for instant

bathroom door can be a thing

work opportunities. Link the

Add a small QR code on your

feedback. It works even better

of the past. ■

a downloadable copy of the menu, TripAdvisor reviews

12 | Hospitality

ADVERTORIAL // RDM Pizza

Pizzaiolo who? The secret is RDM Pizza RDM Pizza Australia has your pizza needs covered and explains how you can achieve pizzaiolo results.

WE’VE ALL SEEN them and maybe even

Bases are available in a variety of sizes,

used them — pizza bases that are less

making them ideal for various venues

than appetising, Frisbee-looking and

from caterers to restaurants, pubs, clubs

cardboard tasting.

and cafés.

the market, with bases cooking in under three minutes and dough in 60 seconds.” With 12 months freezer life, the bases last up to two weeks in a cool room, making

Having spent years in pizza sections

RDM pizza bases have been designed

and consulting to the hospitality sector

in such a way that venues can achieve a

efficiency. Defrost time is approximately

on improving efficiencies and increasing

high-end pizzaiolo result without needing

20 minutes.

revenue, Riccardo Moretti has experienced

an experienced pizza chef. “Each base is

the challenges the sector faces concerning all

handmade with a rustic-style raised artisanal

pizza bases on the market made using the

things pizza.

edge — no one will know it wasn’t made

processes RDM do. “Our products are made

behind the scenes,” says Moretti.

using a sourdough method with a ‘mother’

Launching RDM Pizza in Australia in 2015, he set about providing solutions for the

The processes RDM utilise allow bases to

market, disrupting what was on offer and

maintain an artisanal appearance without

manufacturing traditional pizza bases and

mass commercialisation.

dough for foodservice. The first product Moretti developed was

“Our products are 100 per cent Australian

inventory and stock control a greater

There are no other artisan authentic Italian

yeast from prior dough batches,” says Moretti. RDM are able to use a marginal amount of yeast, and dough is left to naturally leaven and pre-ferment for 48 hours prior to

made using premium ethically sourced

stretching and snap-freezing. The result is a

a pizza base. “It was really about providing

ingredients from local farmers,” says Moretti.

light, easy-to-digest dough.

a solution for pizza sections or venues that

“We also manufacture everything in our

wanted to have a pizza offering where they

Marrickville factory in Sydney.”

may not be able to do a dough product or

RDM don’t add any preservatives or

RDM Pizza is determined to provide quality products and help businesses succeed in the long-term. ■

maintain consistency,” he says. “Our bases are

additives to their products and they are 100

designed to work in any kitchen; anyone can

per cent vegan-friendly. “Our pizza bases

RDM Pizza at info@rdmpizza.com.au or visit

make and cook them.”

cook almost twice as fast as other brands on

rdmpizza.com.au

14 | Hospitality

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DRINKS // Australian spirits

That’s the spirit While Australian spirits occupy a relatively small portion of the market, they’re leagues ahead of global players. WORDS Madeline Woolway

BEING ASKED TO name an Australian spirit brand is an easy task for local

bartenders: Four Pillars, Archie Rose and Mr Black are just a few of the brands that have

It would also be remiss to forget one

of the nation’s most iconic exports — Bundaberg Rum.

Yet, when it comes to market share,

catapulted to the top shelf in recent years.

Australian spirits make up a surprisingly

a handful of urban distilleries — many

In terms of quality, though: “We massively

Most major cities are home to at least

of whom dispense more than one spirit, whether gin, vodka, whisk(e)y, rum or

something else altogether — and regional centres are welcoming new makers, too. 16 | Hospitality

small slice of the domestic spirit market. over deliver,” says Sebastian Reaburn, bartender-turned-master-distiller for Grainshaker vodka.

In his role as a judge for the Royal

Agricultural Society’s Australian Distilled Spirits Awards, Reaburn has noticed a

trend. “We joke that if you get a silver at the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards,

you’re probably going to get a gold at the San Francisco Spirits Awards, which are

considered one of the world’s leading spirit competitions,” he says. “I think we can

compare ourselves to our sporting teams on a global stage; we’re small in number, but high in quality.”

Winning awards is something the Four Pillars

says Irvine. “If the trend continues, we’re really

gin distillery was the first Australian producer to

made spirits.”

team are no strangers to. The Yarra Valley-based take home the award for the International Gin

at the start of a golden era for Australian-

Consumers are already excited by the category.

Producer of the Year at the 2019 International

According to Reaburn, it comes down to two

did it again, claiming the title for a second time.

environment, you’re selling one shot, so that’s

Wine and Spirits Competition. In 2020, the brand Creative Director of Gin Drinks James Irvine

agrees with Reaburn’s assessment of the category, adding the underappreciation extends to the

global market, despite more producers receiving

international accolades. “When you travel abroad and bring people spirits from Australia, usually their first reaction is: ‘I didn’t know Australia

barriers: price and availability. “Within a bar

a much lower threshold [compared to buying] a whole bottle,” he says. “In that case, there’s security in big multinational global brands.

It takes work to show the consumer that it’s a quality product, but it is more expensive generally, just because of the scale.”

made gin, whisk(e)y, rum, brandy and so on’,”

Luckily bartenders can revel in the bounty of

even though we do have great distilleries and

reach consumers. It’s something Irvine

he says. “It’s amazing to still get that reaction producers in Australia.”

Bridging the gap between quality and market

share is a challenge of the good kind — one

that presents ample opportunity for Australian

producers and bars. In fact, the latter is likely to be the conduit between product and consumer. “Like anything, all of this begins its life on

premise and spreads from there to consumers,”

unique characteristics while helping producers appreciates about working with gin day in, day

out. Across the brand’s venues, which include a

cellar door at the main Healesville distillery and

Eileen’s Bar at its Sydney outpost, bartenders are busy introducing consumers to the never-ending array of flavour profiles.

“We don’t think there are many gins that are

the same,” says Irvine. “Especially if you look at [Four Pillars] ... we only make gin. We use

different botanicals and apply different distilling

methods to create styles of gins [to suit] different drinks, cocktails and occasions.

“Further to that, Australia has over 6,500

native ingredients you can’t find anywhere else. We really do have a creative playground in our own backyard no one else has. It lends itself to

gin so well; it almost writes its own narrative in that regard.”

So far, lemon myrtle has proven to be the

darling of Australia’s gin distilling community. “Along with juniper, that’s probably the most

universally used botanical in Australian gin,” says Irvine.

In this regard, Grainshaker faces a particular

challenge. “Gin and whisk(e)y, certainly gin, is a way of showcasing a really compelling Eileen’s Bar Photography by Anson Smart

sense of place,” says Reaburn. “When you talk

about an Australian gin that has something like February 2021 | 17

DRINKS // Australian spirits

“We really do have a creative playground in our own backyard no one else has. It lends itself to gin so well; it almost writes its own narrative in that regard.” — James Irvine

DRINKS // Australian spirits

“It’s really about what you do with the character, texture and flavour of the spirit — there’s nowhere to hide.” – Sebastian Reaburn

Seb Reaburn

James Irvine Photography by Steven Woodburn

pepperberry, there is no other spice I know

vodka or other spirits, liqueurs or aperitifs.

suppliers that support the right people. A

identifiable and distinct.”

“If you’re going to try working with

about how they use certain ingredients,

of that’s comparable. So it’s immediately It doesn’t mean Australian vodka

can’t get a leg up against the global

competition. For people like Reaburn,

who’ve spent time getting deep into the

“There’s some great juice,” says Irvine.

something new and it’s Four Pillars, we’re

grateful, but we encourage [bartenders] to try something Australian in general.”

When it comes to mixing cocktails using

flavour profiles of vodka, it’s certainly

Australian spirits, Irvine follows the same

a European and Australian rye. “Australia

one is to look for complementary flavours,

possible to pick up the nuances between has incredible agricultural production;

[our grains are] really high quality and have great flavour,” says Reaburn.

With a spirit as pared back as vodka,

the raw materials a distiller starts with

are make or break. “I caught a passion for

the spirit because it’s purely an expression of the distillation; there’s no botanical

recipes, there’s no barrel ageing,” says

Reaburn. “It’s really about what you do

with the character, texture and flavour of

rules he would for any cocktail. Option

while option two is to opt for a contrast.

“First and foremost, drinks should be fun and delicious,” he says. “I tend to stand

by ‘less is more’. If you really want to hero something, say the [Four Pillars] Olive

Leaf gin in a martini, don’t confuse it by over-diluting with other flavours.”

It’s especially true when working with

native ingredients, which tend to have strong flavour profiles.

Irvine says working closely with a

the spirit — there’s nowhere to hide.”

distiller has opened up his world, exposing

There’s no shortage of flavour profiles to

do think Australia’s food sources are

work with when it comes to Australian spirits, whether gin, whisk(e)y, rum, 18 | Hospitality

him to new ingredients and ideas. “I

underutilised, abroad and at home,” he says. “There are great producers and

lot of [liquor] brands provide education

such as the botanicals for example, how

they’re foraged, and the essential flavour profiles. That [education] will always

be brand focused. If you want a genuine education about ingredients, there are awesome farms that have providoral

services. I’ve learned a lot by just having a yarn with different suppliers.”

Ultimately, Irvine thinks you can’t go

wrong with quality Australian spirits and a pared-back approach to cocktail mixing.

Reaburn agrees: “The key thing is that

Australian spirits taste great. You have to find ways to let consumers discover that. Bartenders, waiters and sommeliers are talking to customers every night. When they have an opportunity to share a bit

about what goes into a product, it’s really powerful for our industry. You’ve got to give people a reason to be interested.”

With more and more distilleries opening

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PROFILE // Claire Ellis

Claire Ellis From Canada to Australia, Attica’s chef–ceramicist Claire Ellis has let curiosity and kindness guide her career choices. WORDS Madeline Woolway

AS A CHILD, Claire Ellis viewed cooking

In the kitchen, Ellis has found ample

as an opportunity to bring joy to others.

fuel to stoke the fire. “There’s always

began to pursue a career in hospitality,

going off on different tangents and down

But as she moved into adulthood and another force came into play.

“Besides making people happy, I’ve

been very driven by curiosity,” says Ellis. “I feel I’ve always been so curious about why things work and how you might be

something to learn,” she says. “I keep

different rabbit holes. I might be more

curious about different areas now, but I’m definitely learning just as much now as I was when I started.”

where she experienced a cohesive frontand back-of-house culture, Ellis’ early-

career experiences in her hometown of Winnipeg in Manitoba, Canada, were positive. “One thing all those places had in common was that everyone

really respected the leadership team,” recounts Ellis.

At Sydney’s, for instance, head chefs

able to change them by going deeper and

From now-shuttered Sydney’s at the Fork,

encouraged the whole team to contribute

you’re doing.”

changing tasting menu, to Bonfire Bistro

from changing menus, moving around

learning more about the process and what

20 | Hospitality

where she learned to tackle a monthly

to menu development. “I learned so much

aren’t flashy.”

Perhaps the best example of the

dedication to preparation and technique that goes into plating up at Attica is the

honey ant course — one of a few dishes Ellis has created specific tableware for.

“The honey ant dish is the only thing we’ve ever served at Attica — since I’ve been

there — that we didn’t do anything to,”

explains Ellis. “Each person got a whole,

single ant. They’re so special and unique; it’s one of the rare times you really don’t

want to do anything to it or have anything else there.”

With produce such as honey ants, which

have cultural significance to a number sections quite a bit and having a dialogue

As she moved between kitchens, Ellis’

you how to think for yourself and go

chef to Ben Shewry’s Attica, where she has

about everything,” says Ellis. “[It taught] through the creative process together.”

It’s a preference that’s stayed with Ellis as

approach to cooking evolved, leading the worked since 2018.

“When I first started out — in culinary

she’s worked across multiple restaurants.

school — I found out about molecular

love to move around [sections],” she says.

says Ellis. “As time went on, I was more

“My favourite thing is learning, so I really

“I like to be able to change it up and keep

learning new skills or refining them — the more I can be exposed to, the happier I am.”

While Ellis looks back at her time in

gastronomy and thought it was so cool,” and more drawn to natural things; to

people who bring out the natural beauty of something and to food that is very honest and isn’t hiding behind anything.”

Winnipeg kitchens with positivity, there

came a time to go beyond the warren. “It was great and I was able to be creative,

but I wanted to learn from someone else,” says Ellis. “I was seeking a different type of experience, different foods than I’d experienced.”

Australia was the location of choice,

but what sold the chef? “I felt I wanted

to see something completely different,”

says Ellis. “The ingredients [in Australia] are different, the trends are different; it seemed more exciting.”

Ellis was compelled to move across the

“I came across Quay, maybe through The

“I like to be able to change it up and keep learning new skills or refining them — the more I can be exposed to, the happier I am.” – Claire Ellis Take, for example: ‘a simple dish of

potato cooked in the earth in which it was

different than anywhere else I’d worked. I

never heard anything like it before.”

was so inspired by Peter’s [Gilmore] food,

sourcing. Ellis hand sculpted terracottacoloured pillars to reflect the tunnels

made by the honey ants in the earth of the Kalgoorlie desert where they’re harvested by Tjupan women. According to Ellis,

it was a logistical puzzle to source the

ants; one that deserved to be honoured in some way, if not through chef tricks.

“What I aspire to do, when I’m designing tableware for a dish, [is] to match how

special the food or ingredients are without being distracting,” she says. “A lot of the

is unique and there’s so much thought and time that goes into menu development, so

I try to have the tableware be as thoughtful as the food.”

Ellis’ interest in tableware was sparked

at Quay, where ceramics plays a similar

role. “Seeing what a difference ceramics

make … it was so exciting to put food on those plates,” says Ellis. “It sparked my

interest in searching for more interesting

and inspiring ceramics and then eventually wanting to learn how to do it myself.”

While the act of making ceramics has

certainly helped Ellis elevate the dishes she

World’s 50 Best, and it just seemed so

magical,” says Ellis. “It was completely

important story to tell when it comes to

ingredients at Attica are unique; the food

world in 2016 after discovering two of the

country’s top restaurants, Quay and Attica.

of First Nations peoples, there’s often an

grown’. “It blew my mind,” says Ellis. “I’d Pared back doesn’t mean simple,

helps to prepare, it’s led to other benefits

outside of the kitchen. Along with getting in touch with producers and making

time for yoga practice, it’s kept her from developing tunnel vision.

his techniques and the ingredients were

though. “There’s still a lot of technique,”

While ceramics and volunteering at farms

my curiosity.”

feeling simple actually have so much prep

Macedon Ranges are somewhat linked to

so new to me. The food really sparked

says Ellis. “A lot of the dishes that end up

such as Dreaming Goat Dairy in the

February 2021 | 21

PROFILE // Claire Ellis

and labour that goes into them, yet they

PROFILE // Claire Ellis

her hospitality career, yoga is completely

separate from life in the kitchen. “It’s had a hugely positive impact on my life,” says

Ellis. “It was hard during lockdown when I couldn’t go into the studio anymore.

There’s something about removing yourself from your normal environment where you

think about your usual things and trying to be as present as possible.

“I think the mental and emotional

benefits are my favourite part, but

obviously exercise is important. I feel like

hospitality is repetitive and tough on your body, so yoga helps.”

When trips to the studio are possible,

Ellis finds the experience expansive. “The teachers I go to always have different

mindfulness lessons, and that’s opened

me up to meditation,” she says. “I think expanding your mind is important. It’s

so easy to get lost or to put blinders on and be so focused [on work]. I think

it’s important to think [and talk] about

different things … even though ceramics is

@claireellis

kind of related to cooking, it’s a different

something which was unique to that place

that a restaurant isn’t just about serving

and atmospheres.”

chats for hours. Front of house and back

to what’s important to you and that one

community, with different people, ideas Understanding the world of others

around you is as important as expanding your own world. When Ellis thinks back to what made the workplace culture at

Bonfire Bistro so healthy, there’s one thing that comes to mind. “I’ve talked about it

was that we would sit and have huge of house would talk about nothing in

particular. People knew each other very

well; what was going on in each other’s

lives, with their families and their hopes and dreams.”

with so many people that worked there

For now, Ellis is content where she is. But

‘How do you create this environment?’”

the future or the next challenge. Her

because everyone has the same feeling of, she says. “It’s kind of mysterious … [but]

it doesn’t mean she’s not thinking about

inbuilt dedication to engaging with others means there’s boundless possibilities to

says Ellis. “There are different layers to sustainability, too. There’s the produce you’re using — the farming practices

restaurant level and the kitchen. I think we need to keep having conversations within businesses as well as within

22 | Hospitality

exploring opportunities to reduce the

impact of ceramics, recycling plastic and

egg shells into materials that can be used to produce tableware. Ultimately, change does need to happen on a systemic level, so tough conversations about industrywide practices need to happen.

Along with the many sustainability

Bakker’s Greenhouse project with Matt

make a huge difference — then there’s the

She still looks to her CCFCC competition coach Tim Appleton for mentorship

On an individual level, Ellis has been

that’s on her mind.

to be different for each restaurant,”

Ellis won the Manitoba provincial round of the 2015 Junior Canadian Culinary Federation of Chefs and Cooks (CCFCC) competition

she says.

practices in place at Attica, Ellis points to

“It’s tough and the solutions are going

The chef has worked in 14 kitchens in Canada and Australia

small business can make a huge impact,”

consider and conversations to be had.

Currently, it’s environmental sustainability

Ellis started her career as a chef at 19 years old

great food; it’s the power of committing

the community.”

While Ellis was originally inspired by

projects such as the latest iteration of Joost Stone and Jo Barrett. “It’s very inspiring,” she says. “It shows that we can do so

much. I get excited when I hear about a good, positive idea. Shame isn’t a very helpful emotion — finding solutions is

helpful. I want to share that information

with other people and I’ve realised that’s how I want to make a difference; I think the way to make progress is to show people the good things.”

If her career until now is anything to

Shewry’s style of cooking, working at

go by, Ellis’ commitment to curiosity and

“I’ve learned a lot from Ben, especially

to do just that. ■

Attica has taught her more than technique.

forging connections makes her well placed

My Dilly Bag spices

FEATURE // Herbs and spices

Home grown Indigenous produce can be found on menus around the country, but the hospitality industry still has much to learn about native herbs and spices. WORDS Madeline Woolway IT’S AN OFT-SPOUTED fact: there are

There are thousands of herbs and spices

talk of including indigenous produce on

Many have made it on to restaurant and

more than 6,000 native ingredients. While menus has reached fever-pitch, there’s still a long way to go in terms of what makes the cut and how chefs source and use native herbs and spices.

Hospitality speaks to Dale Chapman

of My Dilly Bag and Sharon Windsor

of Indigiearth and Warakirri café about current trends, the produce chefs are

missing out on and how they’d like the industry to progress.

24 | Hospitality

“When crushed, the leaves have a

found across different custodial lands.

distinctively pleasant lemon/lime aroma,

café menus, but it there are two examples

and citrus flavours with refreshing

that have an outsized share of the market: lemon myrtle and wattleseed.

Yuwaalaraay and Kooma woman Dale

Chapman and Ngemba Weilwan woman

Sharon Windsor both list the ingredients as particularly popular among chefs.

“[Lemon myrtle] is possibly the most

and when added to dishes, it adds floral lemonade undertones. It’s popular

because it resembles citrus and doesn’t overcomplicate a dish — we all know

how to use lemon and limes. It’s easy to

use and guests always react positively to its flavour.”

Lemon myrtle’s intense citrus flavour is

well-known bushfood,” says Chapman,

more lemony than lemon, Windsor adds,

in South-East Queensland.

citrus quality. “It has more citral than any

who runs My Dilly Bag on Kabi Kabi land

saying the flavour has a clean and crisp

other plant in the world,” she says. “It’s greater than 90 per cent.”

Wattleseed can be considered a sister to

cacao and coffee, according to Chapman. “It has similar flavours and appearance, but with more nutty and slightly earthy

undertones,” she says. “It also has a similar richness and density in terms of quality of flavour.”

The parallels could be what make it

one of the most popular native spices to incorporate in modern cooking. “People know how to use coffee and cacao, so

exploring an alternative, which has similar qualities, has seen a positive uptake,” says Chapman.

There’s more than one variety of

wattleseed on the market, with different colours as well as flavour strengths

available. “The most commonly used

to date would be Acacia victoriae,” says

Dale Chapman

also make our own wattleseed balsamic reduction to serve with emu meat.”

Chapman also makes the most of savoury

dissipate as it’s cooked, but Tasmanian pepperberry can be used in place of

peppercorns or ground pepper. It also pairs

Windsor, founder of Indigiearth and

and sweet pairings. When it comes to

Wales. “Wattleseed provides an amazing,

mixture] before serving,” she says. “If

to sauces and in oils or just on avocado

measurement as directed in a recipe and

created a salt and pepper mix available

Warakirri café in Mudgee, New South

nutty coffee/hazelnut flavour [and it is] also slightly bitter.”

Windsor suggests the reason behind

the hype is that many people are familiar

lemon myrtle: “If using leaves, strain [the using ground or in flakes, simply add the ensure it spreads evenly throughout.” The herb pairs well with a range of

with both lemon myrtle and wattleseed.

proteins including fish and chicken and

to accessibility, but also their flavour

fabulous as a tea, great in cordials, adds

“They would be the most popular due

and versatility,” she says. “They are both amazing ingredients that you can do

so many things with and they can taste different in each application.”

From savoury to sweet, there’s plenty

adds freshness to ice cream or sorbets. “It’s

chocolate ganache tarts, cream and we

native botanical and one of the easiest-toincorporate native Australian bushfoods into your everyday meals.”

just three out of thousands of native herbs

use it for toothaches and the tea can be very settling.”

Chapman also lists Tasmanian

delicate flavour with a hint of eucalyptus.

and biscuits, wattleseed in cheesecakes,

through My Dilly Bag. “It is a very special

and stocks,” she says. “Aboriginal people

[Warakirri] café menu as well as in our myrtle with barramundi, cheesecakes

on sourdough,” says Chapman, who has

As versatile as lemon myrtle, wattleseed

and is wonderful in soups, laksas, curries

pepperberry as a popular ingredient. The

dining experience,” says Windsor. “Lemon

“It is wonderful in all meals from cheeses

a lovely high note to breads and biscuits

of opportunity to use lemon myrtle

or wattleseed. “We use both on our

well with savoury and sweet dishes.

spice has a warm peppery, sweet and

“It’s very fragrant and has a good kick to it when used raw,” she says.

Similarly to lemon myrtle and wattleseed,

it’s also easy to substitute. The spice will

and Tasmanian pepperberry are, they’re and spices.

“I would like to see more variety used

to showcase the diversity of native foods we have in this country,” says Windsor. “We have over 6,000 edible native

species that grow and are traditional to

many different parts of the country. Each

ingredient has specific stories and a history of use that are unique to each tribal area/ traditional people.”

February 2021 | 25

FEATURE // Herbs and spices

“I strongly believe learning cultural knowledge is where Australia needs to shift collectively to be able to heal from the destructive past.” – Dale Chapman

FEATURE // Herbs and spices

Chapman also endorses strawberry gum

and its unique flavour which she contends is impossible to replicate. “The leaves are

full of aroma and flavour — they combine strawberry and passionfruit tones with a

hint of eucalyptus,” she says. “Strawberry gum leaves are sweet and slightly

acidic, like balsamic vinegar, with fruity

undertones that have shades of cinnamon, strawberry and passionfruit.”

A tea infusion can be turned into a

number of derivatives such as sauce, compote or jam.

“Strawberry gum leaves pair wonderfully

with dairy — it’s perfect for desserts such

as crème brûlée, pavlova, macarons, panna cotta and is fantastic with chocolate,”

says Chapman. “It’s chewed by Aboriginal people for its sweet berry flavour.”

To native thyme and strawberry gum,

Chapman adds two more suggestions: old man saltbush and cinnamon myrtle.

“Old man saltbush is wonderfully subtle;

it has a crisp taste and is best described as having a hint of rosemary, savoury, herby

and salty flavours,” says Chapman. “It can

be used in various ways, but I like to add it like any other herb — directly to the dish.

“Saltbush can be used to add complexity

to spice blends for marinades and dukkah

My Dilly Bag

So, where to next for a chef who’s ready

to step up their game?

“There are so many [options],” says

Windsor. “Some of my favourite ingredients to use that some people are not aware of are native thyme and strawberry gum.” Rich in essential oils, the highly

aromatic native thyme is traditionally

used in medicine. The complex flavour

includes hints of pepper, mint and earthy

characteristics. At Warakirri café, the team adds native thyme to sautéed mushrooms.

Strawberry gum, which are the leaves of

the Eucalyptus olida that grows in Northern New South Wales, has a rich berry

flavour. “I love to use it in desserts such as cheesecake or in iced tea,” says Windsor. “We use it in Indigiearth’s Women’s

Business tea blend. It can be dried and

crushed into smaller leaves for teas, milled

finely for cheesecakes and we also use it to make a strawberry gum syrup served over wattleseed pancakes.” 26 | Hospitality

My Dilly Bag

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FEATURE // Herbs and spices

Warakirri Dining Warakirri’s dining Experience profits will experience is a be donated to the total immersion in Ngukirri foundation, bushfoods and culture set up to help First through a six-course Nations children degustation, which to access heart includes native specialists, support cocktails, traditional and lifestyle/food dance, storytelling education and live music

Sharon Windsor Photography Kate Freeman

“I would love to see chefs learn the traditional knowledge, uses, where the ingredient comes from, medicinal values and even the traditional names used.” – Sharon Windsor and is great in breads, pastas, guacamole,

on harvesting times and the best locations

delicious in fudge. It is used by Aboriginal

come from and throw your support behind

salsas and salad dressings. It is also

people at ceremonies to flavour foods in

ground ovens and the soft foliage is used as bedding.”

Saltbush should replace table salt,

to forage. Ask where the product has

Aboriginal communities when you can. Many people rely on this income and

will have smaller harvests than industrial

Chapman’s cookbook Coo-ee Cuisine guides cooks through well-known recipes using native substitutes

My Dilly Bag’s starter packs feature information including botanical name, flavours and uses

supply chain was non-Indigenous,” she says. “Much of my life’s work has been

to empower Aboriginal communities to benefit from this demand.

“At the same time, our industry’s

collective educational work and campaigns right across Australia, coupled with

the modernisation and uptake of food

exploration since the ’90s, has compelled Australian chefs to incorporate bushfood ingredients into their food.”

The more knowledge, the better in

agricultural specialists.”

Chapman’s opinion. “I strongly believe

do away with cinnamon bark and ground

First Nations businesses, growers and

Australia needs to shift collectively to be

“When crushed, the leaves impart a

another supplier, ask where the ingredient

Chapman argues, while kitchens should

cinnamon in favour of cinnamon myrtle.

cinnamon-like fragrance,” says Chapman. “It does, however, have a more subtle

flavour than the cinnamon we all know

and love. Its aroma has a more earthy and warm nature to it. You can use whole, ground or as flakes [and it] pairs well

with pastries, sweets and both sweet or

savoury spice blends; the leaves can also be steeped in hot water to make a lovely

Windsor agrees it’s crucial to seek out

wild harvesters first. “If purchasing from

comes from, what involvement Aboriginal people have in the process/business and how they are supporting First Nations peoples and community,” she says. “If

in your region and be able to inform you 28 | Hospitality

powerful in the journey and experience they want to provide their patrons.”

It’s something Windsor hopes to see

ingredient comes from, medicinal values

traditional knowledge?

My Dilly Bag works with Aboriginal

endangered ingredients — something

Chapman. “They’ll know what is growing

tell stories about their food, and that is

business — do they have permission to use

While the plethora of options might seem

“Have a yarn to your local mob,” says

she says. “Chefs can use knowledge to

evolve, too. “I would love to see chefs learn

sell/promote the products and their own

communities and non-Indigenous farmers

to make sure sourcing is done right.

able to heal from the destructive past,”

they are using traditional knowledge to

herbal tea.”

overwhelming, there are some simple ways

learning cultural knowledge is where

to supply chefs with sustainable rare and Chapman has been doing for more than two decades.

“From a trade aspect, there have been

a small number of bushfood specialists over the last 20 years and much of the

the traditional knowledge, uses, where the and even the traditional names used,” she says. “For me and my staff, it gives much

more respect to the dish being served. We are serving mother earth on a plate. We are serving 60,000 years of culture for everyone to enjoy.”

Combined with their unique flavour

characteristics, what better reason is

there to include native herbs and spices on menus? ■

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FEATURE // Pizza

Slice of life

Adhering to tradition reigns supreme when it comes to pizza. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

AUSTRALIA’S FIRST PIZZERIA opened

has been bubbling away for 23 years

Caputo blue flour from Naples, which is a

moniker Lucia’s Pizza Bar. The venue fast

which is connected to sister venue Italian

capacity and workability.

its doors in 1957 in Adelaide under the

developed a reputation for its Margherita, and it wasn’t long before pizza bars mushroomed around the country.

Pizza is deceptively simple (flour, water,

salt, toppings), but there’s no hiding when it comes to putting out a quality product. Cucina Porto Chef Martino Pulito and Bacaro Owner Pasquale Trimboli talk

to Hospitality about the importance of

sourcing high-quality ingredients, woodfired versus gas ovens and why going overboard is never the answer.

Bacaro make pizza using a dough recipe that’s been around for 25 years. An

essential component is the starter, which 30 | Hospitality

and counting. The Canberra pizza bar,

and Sons, is a family-run operation that

00 wheat product known for its hydration The dough undergoes a triple proving

sticks to tradition as much as possible.

process which sees the product proved

we’re putting though the kitchen is that

rested for six hours. The dough is then cut

“Our philosophy on pizza and anything it’s all about the ingredients and the

quality,” says Pasquale Trimboli. “Pizza

for 12 hours before it’s knocked back and

and shaped into balls and left to rise again. Thanks to the use of a starter, Bacaro’s

is just basic components; it’s how you

dough requires minimal yeast, resulting

difference is.”

“With a starter, you get oxidisation where

put them together and that’s where the Bacaro’s dough is made from flour,

water, yeast, salt and sometimes olive

oil — it sounds simple, but there’s more to it. “The flour needs to be 00 bread

flour with low gluten and very low yeast,” says Trimboli. “The flour itself changes

the whole product.” The team work with

in a lighter and more digestible product. it’s like a sourdough effectively,” says

Trimboli. “You’re using less yeast in the

dough itself, but you’re also developing

a wetter dough, which means it becomes harder to handle; but professionals are used to it.”

and it’s grown in volcanic soil; the Mediterranean sea breeze also plays a part.” – Martino Pulito

Cucina Porto recently opened its doors in The

has been imported from Italy and it can be wet

Pulito heading up the kitchen. The concept is

your knowledge to work out how much water to

Star Sydney, with Puglia-born chef Martino

very much anchored by Pulito’s upbringing in

Southern Italy, and pizza naturally found its way

because it comes on a plane, so you need to use use. Australian flour doesn’t taste the same.”

onto the menu. Pulito has worked alongside a

Less is more is one of the key mantras when

develop the offering, which starts with freshly

the sector long dominated by monster levels

pizzaiolo with 20-plus years of experience to

made dough. “The recipe is super simple; it’s just water, flour and yeast,” says Pulito. The team

made the decision to forgo using a starter and

instead turn to dry yeast. “We don’t use a starter because it’s not easy to control and manage

everyday, but we leave the dough to prove for 48

hours before we use it,” says Pulito. Cucina Porto use type 0 or type 1 bread flour from Naples,

which Pulito says is incomparable to flours made in Australia. “The flour we use is made from the

building quality pizzas. And while we’ve seen of toppings, it doesn’t make a great eating

experience when everything goes sliding the

second you pick up a slice. Same goes for sauces: simplicity wins. Just like in Italy, red and white sauces are the go in Australia, but there are

a plethora of variations which often deviate

from original recipes. Bacaro and Cucina Porto both follow tradition when it comes to their sauce offerings.

The majority of pizzas at Cucina Porto

finest durum in Italy and it’s grown in volcanic

feature a red base, which is made from blitzed,

part,” says the chef. “It’s super elastic and you

base created from julienned fior di latte and

soil; the Mediterranean sea breeze also plays a get a nice crust when you cook it. The flour

seasoned San Marzano tomatoes, with the white mozzarella. It’s a similar story at Bacaro: “We

only use two — the tomato-based sauce, which is high-quality San Marzano tomatoes from

Naples blended with salt, basil and olive oil,” says Trimboli. “There’s no cooking involved.

The other is a white base, which is olive oil with buffalo mozzarella — there’s no trickery to this sort of stuff.”

Pizza menus across the board often include the classics such as the Margherita, diavola and

capricciosa, but the notion of seasonality is not

to be skipped on, and neither is the importance of working with quality ingredients. Pulito has

struck a balance between highlighting seasonal

ingredients and rotating flavour combinations to determine which options resonate with diners. “I use the best gorgonzola from the kitchen on the quattro formaggi pizza and you can really see the quality of the product,” says the chef.

“It’s asparagus season, so we have used a Monte Rosso from Adelaide with fior di latte which works really well.” Martino Pulito

Bacaro isn’t out to reinvent the wheel, and

that’s part of the beauty of the offering. “It’s a February 2021 | 31

FEATURE // Pizza

“The flour we use is made from the finest durum in Italy

FEATURE // Pizza

Cucina Porto’s pizzas cook in 3-4 minutes at 300 degrees Celsius

The average dough ball weighs around 230g

Finding trained pizzaiolos has become a challenge due to the pandemic

Bacaro’s oven reaches 400 degrees Celsius and cooks pizzas in 1 minute 30 seconds

Pasquale Trimboli

“… The Australian public has taken to it and there are a lot of good pizzerias slowly educating the general public as to what a pizza should be.” – Pasquale Trimboli question of less is more and it’s not dollar-

restrictions and building codes. Pulito

Trimboli. “We try and limit it to two to

in Italy which saw olive and oak wood

a little bit and it gives a more consistent

was unable to install a wood-fired oven

feeding it wood and it’s a lot more

driven; it’s purely flavour profile,” says

three ingredients and you can’t really bulk it up with toppings because you’ll never

cook through what’s on the base. You need to be aware that you can’t overweigh the dough; it’s a fine balance.”

The top sellers at Bacaro are the

puttanesca with anchovy, caper and olive and salami and chilli, which highlights

salami made to the venue’s specifications

by a producer in Bowral. “We don’t change it up too often, but we do take advantage of seasonal produce like zucchini flowers

or figs,” says Trimboli. “It’s great because the Australian public has taken to it, and there are a lot of good pizzerias slowly

educating the general public as to what a pizza should be.”

The wood-fired versus gas oven debate continues to run hot, but Trimboli and

Pulito agree fire achieves the best results.

However, a wood-fired oven is not always a possibility for some venues due to 32 | Hospitality

has fond memories of his uncle’s pizzeria powering the oven; however Cucina Porto due to regulations. “The wood-fired oven is the best option of course; in Italy most ovens are wood-fired, especially where I

heat,” says Trimboli. “You have to keep temperamental; it’s pretty much an art when you break it down.”

There are no temperature gauges either,

come from in Puglia,” says the chef. “The

with the team relying on their experience

because it’s like you’re smoking the pizza

hand at the mouth of the oven and know

wood gives more flavour to the pizza

and the temperature is more controllable.” The team use a gas pizza oven instead,

and have been breaking in the new piece of equipment since opening. “The oven

has a chamber that can reach more than

and instincts. “You just need to have your where it’s too hot or not,” says Trimboli. “You need to have that passion and

attention to detail if you want to be at the top of your game.”

400 degrees Celsius, but it’s too much

Sitting down for a pizza is typically a

around 300 degrees,” says Pulito. “We had

an evergreen charm. Trimboli weighs in

for cooking the pizza, so we control it at

to test the dough for days and adjust the

water content because it’s a new oven, but it keeps getting better because the stone is always warm now.”

Bacaro power their wood-fired oven

using ironbark, which is endemic to

eastern Australia. “It does flavour it up

shared experience, and pizza bars exude on what makes these venues special: “A

good pizza bar first and foremost offers a good pizza, a good selection of beer, an

interesting wine list and has the ability to have that honest and hospitable side,” he says. “Almost that Italian abundance — you’re not skimping.” ■

FEATURE // Large-scale venues

Go big or go home Is bigger really better? Two hospitality figures weigh in. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

SPACE IS A luxury commodity, and

Big Group Co-Founder Bruce Keebaugh

The Commons at Ormond Collective the

locations in ‘desirable’ areas. While we’ve

core benefits of going all out and why

was originally known as The Belgian

it’s generally hard to come by sizeable

seen the rise of pocket concepts, there’s also been a steady incline of scaled-up

venues with a built-in capacity to become multifaceted destinations.

Hospitality speaks to Tully Heard

Consulting Director John Tully and The 34 | Hospitality

about scouting out suitable locations, the an evolving offering is the key to making large-scale concepts stick around in an ever-changing environment.

The Big Group in Melbourne is behind a

number of venues and event spaces, with

latest concept to launch. The location

Beer Garden, but underwent a significant transformation before reopening as The

Commons in October 2020. The concept very much celebrates the outdoors, and

encompasses four distinct spaces: a café, beer garden, restaurant and bar.

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FEATURE // Large-scale venues The Growers

The Garden Cafe at The Commons

“The bigger the space, the better the return and the higher value on the economy of scale.” – Bruce Keebaugh The Conservatory at The Commons

“Having worked in the hospitality

industry for over 30 years now, [recent]

months have certainly been the hardest,” says Keebaugh. “I couldn’t be prouder of the eccentric space that my team at The

Big Group has created — from branding, architectural design, menu development

and Rosé selections — it’s a true vision … ” While The Big Group has operated the

site for years, Keebaugh says scouting

out locations is “the hardest piece of the

game”. Spaces need to meet select criteria before the group moves forward with a

project, with views, parking, space size,

and to Melbourne. The team opened The

goods. “People are going to come more

Wales South Coast in December last year

offerings, so you’re capturing the ratio of

Growers in Shoalhaven on the New South and are also behind The Greens in North Sydney.

John Tully says the success of large

venues is dependent on a number of

factors. “It’s scale; and fundamental to that is location and parking,” he says.

“Parking might not be as relevant if there’s high-density living around you, but if

it’s destination-driven, parking becomes

important. If you can get it right, the main

regularly to a venue that has multiple

that wallet,” says Tully. “Spatial design is fundamental and you don’t want to feel

like you’re in a huge chasm when you’re

there. At Acre Artarmon, we can activate an area on the weekend when it’s busy, but during the week, you don’t need to use that space because there’s enough

ambience indoors; it still works as a venue whether there’s less or more trade.”

In a COVID world, space is a big factor,

benefit is scale.”

but Keebaugh says flexibility and intimacy

height all coming into play. “The bigger

Of course, designing a desirable concept is

paramount to the new economy, and a

higher value on the economy of scale,”

beauty of monster spaces is the flexibility

CBD proximity, facilities, entry and ceiling the space, the better the return and the says Keebaugh.

Acre in Sydney’s Camperdown was a

ground-breaking venue for the hospitality scene, combining a greenhouse with a

restaurant in a densely populated area.

Tully Heard developed the concept, which has gone on to expand to the North Shore 36 | Hospitality

at the heart of all venues, and part of the to offer multiple experiences in one. The public has also become accustomed to venues that can do it all, and there’s a huge demand for concepts that allow

are vital to an operation’s success. “It’s space must work for both virtual and

physical events,” he says. “Consumers like variety and brands need to align themselves to spaces that highlight their values.”

customers to experience everything from

Locality is a big part of the Acre brand,

and heading home with a bag full of retail

is proof it resonates with a broad market

ordering a beer to sitting down for a meal

and the continued growth of the concept

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FEATURE // Large-scale venues The Commons

pot-based gardens, Melbourne has an

incredible greenhouse and Camperdown

has an urban farm. The beauty is the sites

look better over time and there’s the ability to adapt and add to the product.”

Food is another connector for the Acre

brand, but Tully is mindful of keeping The Growers

things moving along. “You have to keep

the food and beverage offering relevant to what the market wants,” he says. “It

“People are going to come more regularly to a venue that has multiple offerings, so you’re capturing the ratio of that wallet.” – John Tully and works in a range of areas. But the

team avoids a cookie-cutter approach at all

product comes from or communication via social media. The tweaks may be small, but they need to be continually looked

at. Longevity is around ensuring you’re continuing to amend your product to maintain relevance.”

The essence of hospitality also cannot

costs. “We have to customise each project

be underestimated, and can arguably

Tully. “The Lower North Shore is different

naturally require a higher number of staff,

around the market we’re going into,” says to Camperdown; the Inner West comprises a younger market and the North Shore is much more conservative. The one in Melbourne was different because the

development is much more sustainability

positioned and the whole complex is built around that.”

A shared aesthetic links all three sites

together, with a focus on growing produce on-site and a heavy presence of greenery. “The Artarmon site has more vertical, 38 | Hospitality

could be more descriptors of where the

be more difficult in larger spaces which which Keebaugh says is the “greatest

challenge of all time”, especially due to

the pandemic. “Successful large venues do the fundamentals well in terms of service, and people want consistency, which is a comfort to them,” adds Tully.

The consensus is an evolving offering will keep customers coming back, and large

venues are in-built with the ability to adapt — should they wish. ■

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FEATURE // Stocks and sauces

Taking stock They’re the foundation of cooking, but that doesn’t mean they’re easy to perfect — what takes stocks and sauces from good to god tier? WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Tim Birch of Timothy Birch Studios

40 | Hospitality

entire team is tasked with looking after

stocks. The stocks are kept on the stove

throughout the day, which starts at 8am, with chefs taught to check in constantly.

“There’s always a big pot and a ladle next to the stocks,” says Lilai. “And everybody

knows you don’t walk past a stock without skimming. I really emphasise they need to be skimmed.”

The simple task is all it takes to stop

disaster. An unskimmed stock will see

fat boil back in, turning the end product

rancid and cloudy. And any imperfections

Harry Lilai

will be felt down the line. “You’ll end up

STOCKS AND SAUCES are the

foundational cookery basics all chefs rely on, regardless of cuisine.

Hospitality speaks to Harry Lilai about

the groundwork that goes into creating

polished French stocks and sauces, who says the trials and tribulations are well worth it.

“What I’ve seen over the past 10 to 15 years is a decline in stocks and classic sauces,” reveals Harry Lilai, executive

chef at Market Bistro in Maroochydore on

with a horrible-looking jus at the end,

“What I’ve seen over the past 10 to 15 years is a decline in stocks and classic sauces.” – Harry Lilai

Queensland’s Sunshine Coast.

The reason, Lilai posits, is because of the

sheer amount of time, space and labour

that goes into making many of the stocks

and sauces. “A good French-style [veal or beef] stock will take you 10 to 12 hours

care and attention. It’s not surprising many kitchens look for shortcuts.

While there’s a great market for pre-

made stocks, Lilai chooses to keep them

from there,” he explains. “You’re starting

but because of the skills and attitude the

with a good 20 to 25 kilos of veal bones, your mirepoix and 100 litres of water

to end up with about 50 litres of stock.

Then you end up with eight to 10 litres of derivative [sauce].”

Chicken stocks can take up to four or

five hours, while fish stock can be made

in a matter of 15 minutes — that doesn’t mean it’s a walk in the park, though. No

matter the base ingredients, stocks require

says Lilai.

That ‘care and love’ needs to be given

from the get go. Something seemingly

minor, such as burnt onions, in a mirepoix will lead to bitterness. “You’ll taste it 14 or 15 hours down the track when you finally reduce the stock and wonder,

‘Why is there a little bitterness on the

end?’ — it’s because you burnt the onions 14 hours ago. Make sure every step is taken properly.”

If shortcuts lead to an inferior stock,

just to get to a point where it can come off; and then there are derivatives, like sauces,

so you need to keep it nice and clear,”

in-house; not just for quality control,

there’s no way around it — kitchens need to dedicate time, space and labour to the process. Over his 30 years in kitchens

around the world, Lilai has had ample time to systematise his stock-making strategy. It all comes down to forward planning.

“I know the stocks will be made on

process provides to early-career chefs. “I

certain days, so I cook my bones the night

comes from good stocks,” says Lilai. “If

the next morning knows the stock is ready

keep harping on about it, but good cookery there’s no care taken when making stock, you might as well not cook. I don’t want

[the industry] to lose the art of [making] stock, and we’re starting to a little bit.

It should be taught in trade school, but

they’re rushing through and not teaching young cooks the proper foundations.”

before, then the first chef who walks in to go on,” says Lilai. “The veal bones,

mirepoix and herbs are all ready — they just have to top it up [with water] and

then put it on a corner of the stove and work around the pot.”

Some kitchens will leave stocks on

overnight, but Lilai prefers a day cook. It February 2021 | 41

FEATURE // Stocks and sauces

In Lilai’s kitchen at Market Bistro, the

FEATURE // Stocks and sauces

“The more jelly in your stock, the more texture you have in your sauce.” – Harry Lilai means chefs can keep an eye on their progress

fat or oil, then a classic mirepoix of onion, carrot

hazards. “I like to control it during the day,” Lilai

“I use a little more onion than carrot or celery

and reduces the risk of health and safety

says. “We operate from 8am to 12am anyway.”

On any given day, the kitchen will prep three

stocks: veal, chicken and fish. The team follows

a similar process for all three, with adjustments

in place to suit the demands of each ingredient.

because I like the caramelised sweetness that

comes out of them,” says Lilai. “I throw some tomato paste over the mixture as well, and it gets roasted to a dark colour.”

Essentially, the bones are prepared, a mirepoix is

The bones and mirepoix are then added to a pot

is topped with water and put on the stove.

leaves, peppercorns, parsley and tarragon stalks.

mixed and aromats are added before the mixture Veal is preferred for its neutral flavour. “Beef

is a little strong for what I want and I find beef bones really fatty as well,” explains Lilai. “A lot

of fat extracts out of the bones and you end up with an oil slick, which is a bit unfriendly to

eat. Veal bones are more neutral, so you can get

more derivatives from that. I can throw veal over stock over roasted duck trim and mix half stocks to make sauces.”

First, the veal bones are dry roasted for

45 minutes to an hour. Once cooked, they’re

removed from the trays along with any excess 42 | Hospitality

and celery goes back into the same roasting pan.

along with aromats such as garlic heads, bay

It’s then a matter of time and constant skimming. At the end of the process, the veal stock should have a gelatinous, almost hard thin layer of fat

over the top, with any sediment all the way down at the bottom of the pot. “If there’s too much

sediment, it hasn’t been strained properly,” says

Lilai. “That’s another thing that’s really important. I strain through two different strainers. I use a

fine chinois, then an extra fine. Once I make my

sauce, I put them through a filter, too. You end up with a beautiful clear stock.”

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FEATURE // Stocks and sauces

“I find vegetable stocks tend to go a little bitter and turn quite quickly.” – Harry Lilai

For chicken stock, the time commitment is

but don’t because you’re going to add [the

want a dark stock,” says Lilai. “I just wash

Ideally, fish stock should be made using

halved. “I don’t roast the bones, unless I

stock] to something else.”

the bones out and I don’t roast any of the

the bones of white-fleshed fish such as

raw ones.”

to go cloudy,” says Lilai. “Mullet tends to

vegetables [for the mirepoix]. I just use The same goes for fish stock, with

carrots removed from the mirepoix.

“Because fish stock is such a short cook,

snapper or brim. “I find barramundi tends go cloudy, too. I don’t touch any oily fish such as tuna, marlin or sardines.”

The chef does include fish heads,

you won’t get any flavour out of the

though. “Some chefs refuse,” he says. “I

says Lilai. “But they have a tendency to go

from the heads. It gives the stock a bit of

carrots unless you cut them really fine,”

cloudy if they break down and you want to keep it as clean as possible.”

like the gelatinous quality that comes

body. The more jelly in your stock, the

using a specific vegetable, but it has to make sense for a dish. “For instance, I put a corn chowder on,” he says. “I

made a stock out of the corn cobs that were left, so it has some extra corn flavour. I’m doing it to extract the

flavour I want out of that vegetable; I

don’t just put a mixed vegetable stock over whatever. I wouldn’t gather all

my vegetable trimmings, put them in a stock pot and boil them — I think that’s confusing.”

more texture you have in your sauce.”

All in all, Lilai has been at it for 32

finished. “Chicken stock shouldn’t taste

For Lilai, vegetable stock is optional,

every kitchen he’s helmed. “And I feel

a good chicken flavour in it … [and]

“I find vegetable stocks tend to go a little

Both should be clean and clear when

too fatty,” says Lilai. “It should have

should be toward the back of the palate

and balanced right through without any

seasoning. You almost want to put salt in it to bring the chicken flavour forward, 44 | Hospitality

despite the increase in dietary requests.

bitter and turn quite quickly,” says Lilai. “I can get the same flavour out of a dish just using water.”

Occasionally, Lilai will make a stock

years, prepping stocks diligently in

like I’ve just scratched the surface,” he says.

Will chefs coming up through the

ranks today develop the same passion

for the foundation of classic European cuisine? Only time will tell. ■

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VIDEO // Behind the scenes

Esteban’s scallop aguachile An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series. Brought to you by Cookers.

Atticus Hospitality’s

Method

Executive Chef John Frid shows us how

Scallops

to make a scallop

Slice each scallop

aguachile that packs

horizontally into

a punch. The dish

four rounds. Place

has been a hit at the

the scallops in a

Sydney group’s latest

bowl with fresh lime

opening, Esteban.

juice, a pinch of sea salt and a pinch of

Ingredients

white pepper. Mix gently and leave for

Scallops

2–5 minutes.

8 fresh scallops Fresh lime juice

Aguachile

Pinch of sea salt

Purée all ingredients

Pinch of white pepper

until smooth.

Aguachile

Assembly

1/2 continental cucumber

Place diced avocado

1 green shallot

on the bottom of a

1/2 bunch fresh

dish and season with

coriander

olive oil and a little

Juice of two limes

salt and pepper.

1 green chilli,

Cover with aguachile.

deseeded Pinch of sea salt

Arrange scallops

Pinch of white pepper

over the centre of the

1/2 white onion

bowl/plate, covering the diced avocado.

Garnish

Garnish with

Eschalot rings

diced cucumbers,

Diced avocado

eschalot rings and

Good-quality extra

edible flowers.

virgin olive oil Small diced cucumber Edible flowers

Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au or scan the QR code to watch the video now

46 | Hospitality

EQUIPMENT // Bamboo steamer

Bamboo steamers Fit for multiple purposes, bamboo steamers might be just the thing your kitchen needs.

Use in conjunction with a wok or wide-

The thin metal of a

rimmed shallow pan

wok allows for easier

such as a skillet

temperature control when boiling water

Try steaming breads, vegetables, rice, proteins, cakes and other desserts

To prevent food from sticking, line baskets with anything from parchment paper to cabbage leaves

Steam marinated meats and vegetables by placing them into the baskets in a small dish

Don’t soak steamers or put them in the dishwasher — instead, hand wash them with a sponge and soapy water then allow to air dry

48 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Fish Shop Nic Pestalozzi, Nathan Dalah and Casper Ettelson

THE CONCEPT BEHIND Fish Shop has

of crossover with the Fishbowl customer

slow down brought on by COVID that

its own identity. We’ve worked with M35

for a few years now. Ironically, it was the

Fish Shop The Fishbowl team on expanding their portfolio and trying something new.

allowed us to hone the idea and bring it

to life. We figured there’s got to be a place where you can go that’s like an old-school fish shop meets a new-age restaurant;

something that was easy, affordable and

base, but we want Fish Shop to develop

to develop a really strong brand identity

which has been extended to the interiors (George Livissianis) and uniforms (Days Work).

We were looking for a chef who was

worked in takeaway and dine-in formats.

passionate, energetic, flexible and fun to

at Bondi Beach represented a chance for

spades! Joel has really helped shape the

When it came to site selection, 7 Ways

us to share our vision with our original

Fishbowl audience, family and friends — and the sun-kissed spot was too good to pass up!

While Fish Shop leverages our existing

commissary kitchen and logistical

operation, it involves more in-house

preparation and chef-driven execution than Fishbowl. To add to that, Fish

Shop incorporates a bar with a selection of Australian natural wines and local

spirits, which is something we haven’t experienced with Fishbowl. 50 | Hospitality

We think there will naturally be a lot

been something we’ve wanted to pursue

work with — and Joel Bennett is that in

vision and refine the offering; combining

his technical ability and sense of creativity with our operational goals.

Our menu and seafood selection

features sustainable varieties driven by what’s fresh in the market including

ocean trout, snapper, hapuka, swordfish

and Ora King salmon. The menu has been designed with both dine in and takeaway in mind, featuring a selection of boxes

to go giving choice, flexibility and clear direction for those looking to eat in the park, at the beach or at home. ■

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Hospitality February 2021

Articles inside

PROFILE // Claire Ellis

DRINKS // Australian spirits

COLUMN // Annette Lacey

Taking stock

Slice of life