NO.755 JULY 2019
MONIQUE FISO • VENUE ACCESSIBILITY • DURIAN • SCOTT PICKETT
CONTENTS // July
Contents JULY 2019
8
Regulars 6 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, products and more.
12
12 // BUSINESS PROFILE Aspiration and ambition are behind the hard-earned success of New Zealand chef Monique Fiso.
7 // PRODUCE Everything you need to know about durian.
16 // DRINKS Why you should take a second look at your tea offering.
8 // COLUMN Scott Pickett on his role as a mentor to young chefs.
24 // BEHIND THE SCENES The Butcher’s Block’s pandan waffle.
10 // BEST PRACTICE Get the upper hand on the delivery realm with tips from James Eling.
25 // EQUIPMENT We hone in on the pastry brush.
20
Features 18 // ACCESSIBILITY What’s your venue doing to make sure dining out is a positive experience for people with disability? 20 // AIRPORT VENUES Running an operation in an airport is a different kettle of fish, according to Salvatore Malatesta and Mike McEnearney.
26 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Neptune head chef Hayden McMillan.
July 2019 | 3
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
FEED THE SOUL I just discovered the chicken laksa at Laksa King on Erskine Street and can confirm it’s an excellent lunch option. @annabellecloros
Meeting of the minds
NETFLIX & PANCAKES Caffe Bartolo’s Netflix and Pancakes cocktail is infused with pastry. @madeline.woolway
I DON’T KNOW about you, but 2019 has been
more. Tickets for the event are now on sale at
flying by for me. Not that I’m complaining,
hospleaders.com.au. I hope to see you there!
because it means the Hospitality Leaders
This issue, we interview acclaimed chef
Summit is on our doorstep. We will be hosting
Monique Fiso, look at how you can make your
the event on Monday 29 July at the Grand
venue more accessible to people living with
Ballroom in Randwick Racecourse and the
disability and delve into durian. Not to miss,
team has put together a stellar line up of
Scott Pickett’s column on working with young
more than 30 speakers.
chefs and a piece on how airport venues
Names including Christine Manfield, Justin
differ from standalone concepts.
North, Mitch Orr and Kylie Javier Ashton will grace the stage to talk about everything
Until next time,
from pioneering pop-ups to attracting and
Annabelle Cloros
retaining local staff, taking a venue from
Editor
FAMILY TIES Congratulations to chef Jessi Singh, who has recently opened the doors to Daughter In Law in Melbourne’s CBD. @hospitalitymagazine
Follow us
initial idea to bricks and mortar and much
@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
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4 | Hospitality
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NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Omnia opens in Melbourne Acclaimed chef Stephen Nairn and award-winning bartender Orlando Marzo have teamed up to open Omnia in South Yarra under LK Hospitality. The pop-up concept doubles as a European bistro and a cocktail bar, with a 36-seat dining room and a garden bar located behind the restaurant. Nairn has designed a menu that draws on his classical training, with menu items including gougère with chive cream, and steak tartare with smoked egg yolk and pomme gaufrettes. There will be more than 150 Australian and international wines on the menu along with an impressive cocktail list influenced by the botanical theme of the bar.
Everything’s golden Sydney institution Golden Century has announced the name of its new restaurant which takes cues from the venue’s
Start the day right
signature dish, XO pippies. XOPP is slated to open in August in
Breakfast: The Cookbook
Darling Square’s The Exchange building, and will offer diners
Emily Elyse Miller
contemporary Cantonese cuisine. The 160-seat restaurant will
$65; Phaidon
also feature a bar where guests can order drinks, snacks and
Food writer, culinary consultant and
share plates. In other news, the Sussex Street location has
founder of BreakfastClub Emily Elyse
recently undergone a renovation to make way for private dining
Miller has penned a definitive guide to
space, Golden Century Wine Bank. goldencentury.com.au
the most important meal of the day.
Photography by Parker Blain
Breakfast features hundreds of sweet and savoury recipes from countries including Mexico, China, Scotland, Egypt and more (our own Bill Granger is a contributor). Highlights include Chinese pineapple buns, Scottish morning rolls and huevos rancheros. au.phaidon.com
Bloody Shiraz Gin is back Four Pillars has released the 2019 edition of Bloody Shiraz Gin. Victorian Shiraz grapes
The Old Clare does winter
are steeped in Rare Dry Gin for eight weeks before the fruit is
The Old Clare Hotel has unveiled a raft of events and
pressed and blended with more
limited menus across A1 Canteen, Automata and Barzaari
gin to achieve an alcohol level
Chippendale. Automata will offer a three-course menu
of 37.8 per cent. The unfiltered
featuring some of the restaurant’s most-loved dishes for
and unfined gin can be enjoyed
$65, A1 will introduce a revolving $30 pasta and minimal
in cocktails or sipped solo.
intervention wine menu and Barzaari has put together the
Available at selected retailers
ultimate falafel plate for $20 per person. All the specials are
and bottle shops for $85
available until 31 August. Photography by Nikki To
(700ml). fourpillars.com.au
6 | Hospitality
Gloves should be worn when
PRODUCE // Durian
handling durian to avoid injury
Short spines cover the husk
Durian derives from the Old Malay language word dûrih, which means thorn
The arils are yellow in colour
Durian
Flesh is soft and smooth
It’s been labelled as the world’s smelliest fruit and is banned from public transport in some countries, but there’s just something about durian. WORDS Annabelle Cloros ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux Origins
metres high and have an open crown of
a green to brown husk covered in short spines
Durian is known as the ‘king of fruits’ and
branches that grow up the length of the
and should be handled with gloves to avoid
belongs to the genus Durio, which has 30
tree. The branches are covered in obovate-
injury. The arils (flesh) are yellow in colour and
recognised species and hundreds of varieties
oblong-shaped leaves that are evergreen,
contain seeds. The complex aroma of the fruit
across South-East Asia. It’s believed durian
with flowers growing in cymes (clusters) on the
varies according to species and ripeness,
originated in Borneo, with the first European
trunk and branches. Fruiting varies according
but has been likened to everything from
accounts documented in the 15th century.
to region, but durian fruits between November
rotten onions to roasted almonds. The flesh is
Venetian merchant Niccolo De’ Conti came
and February in the Northern Territory and
soft and smooth, similar to cream cheese in
across the fruit in Sumatra and compared its
between January and April in Queensland.
texture, with common flavour notes including
size to a watermelon. The fruit is primarily cultivated in
Nets are commonly used to harvest durian,
caramel, chocolate, blue cheese and garlic.
which drop to the ground once ripe. The nets
Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia and Borneo,
prevent damage to the fruit and potential
Culinary uses
but was introduced to north Queensland
injury to workers. In some regions, young fruit
Durian is used in a wide range of savoury
in the 1970s. Commercial growing in
is cut from the tree and ripened in storage,
and sweet applications. Durian is commonly
Queensland and the Northern Territory
however selective harvesting requires great
consumed fresh and chilled, but also forms a
commenced in the same decade.
skill and knowledge.
core ingredient in modern (cakes, ice cream,
Growing conditions, harvest and storage
ripened and should be kept refrigerated.
ketan durian, ripe durian served with coconut
Whole fruit can last up to one week when
glutinous rice. The fruit can also be cooked
Durian grows best in tropical climates with a
kept between 5-10 degrees Celsius.
and is often used in curries, sauces and
Durian has a short shelf life once it has
minimum temperature of 23 degrees Celsius
crepes) and traditional desserts such as
soups. Durian flesh can be dried and made
and a maximum temperature of 33 degrees
Appearance and flavour profile
into chips, fermented, preserved, candied
Celsius. The trees require well-drained fertile
Durian grows from 15-30cm in length and
and turned into paste. The seeds can also
soils that are rich in nutrients and organic
12-15cm in width. The fruit is ovoid or round in
be consumed once cooked, and are often
matter. Trees typically grow between 27-40
shape and weighs between 1-3kg. Durian has
boiled, roasted, candied or fried. ■ July 2019 | 7
COLUMN // From chef to mentor
Future-proof Scott Pickett is one of Melbourne’s favourite sons, but his role as a mentor ranks highly on the chef’s long list of achievements. WORDS Scott Pickett PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Shiff
I HAVE HAD really great mentors
we put support staff around them to make
expect things to be there but they’re not.
the chef I am today if those people didn’t
dealing with suppliers, working at costings
about variables and making sure you’re
throughout my career and I wouldn’t be
take me under their wings. It’s something I’m aware of and I feel a sense of
responsibility to help the next generation coming through — it’s important to give back in cooking and in life.
Peter Jarmer was my first chef and he
taught me all his skills and knowledge.
Andrew Summers was another one along
sure they’re setting up their formulas,
and costing rosters. I let them make their own decisions, but quite often I’ll pull
them aside and say, ‘That was a good call’, or I’ll tell them to think about things from a different perspective. I’ll give them a
brief and give them free rein, but I’m firm, too — I don’t take any shit.
with Bruno Cerdan, Philippe Mouchel,
I first did cooking competitions when I
Cooke. The one thing these people all have
that’s when I met Bruno Cerdan. I had
Rabih Yanni, Philip Howard and Donovan in common is that they gave me time and knowledge. I was a bit of a wild, young lad. I partied, I was late to work, I was
hungover or I overcooked a piece of fish, but they believed in me.
Those mentors have really shaped who I am and how I see things. I like to think about that when it comes to the young
chefs in my restaurants. They reach out to me for advice and we have an open
and honest relationship personally and
professionally. As much as I’m their boss, I like to be their friend as well. They’re the boss of their kitchen and I’m the boss of
the restaurant — I just make sure I don’t step on their toes too much.
Chefs aren’t trained to manage people
or costs — they’re trained to cook — so 8 | Hospitality
It’s about problem-solving and thinking
prepared for it. John was training at Estelle for six months and we would critique his dish. Every month we would have other
chefs come in and taste the dish and give us feedback and ideas. John came fifth
at the final and Jake Kellie [Burnt Ends,
Singapore] came second, so it was a great result for Australia.
was an apprentice with Peter Jarmer and
There’s a lot of talent coming through
already been to Bocuse d’Or to watch some
been a rule-breaker myself, but I’m starting
friends compete and Philippe Mouchel
said I should enter. I represented Australia in 2005, and four years ago, I jumped on as the coach to support the candidates
coming through. Bocuse led to S.Pellegrino asking me to be John Rivera’s mentor for the 2017–2018 Young Chef competition. I have had the same experience, so I can explain it to the chefs who don’t know
and they’re breaking the rules. I’ve always to embrace a new level of freedom. I’m
steeped in traditional French cuisine with a modern twist, but the young chefs coming
up aren’t trained like that — they have the freedom to try interesting combinations
and new techniques. There’s a lot to learn from these chefs and I’d be a fool if I thought I knew it all.
For me, it’s an honour and a privilege to
about it or haven’t done it before. I had
be at this stage of my life and career where
he said that our job as mentors is to guide
responsibility to give back to the industry.
a chat with Thomas Keller at Bocuse and them, support them and give them the
tools to succeed, and I thought it was a great way to look at it.
Competitions are different to cooking in
a restaurant or hotel environment. There are different rules and set-ups and you
I can identify and appreciate that I have a If I didn’t have people who guided me at the start, I wouldn’t be the same chef I
am today. It’s about the community of the jacket — we’re a brigade. Anyone who
has the opportunity to be on the flip side should give back. ■
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BEST PRACTICE // Online ordering
A guide to maximising
online order profits Eight tips to consider when offering delivery at your venue. WORDS James Eling SINCE THE 1950S, restaurants
which offers the convenience of
have been providing pick-up and
eating at home, in turn allowing
Use more than one online system
delivery services for customers
the restaurant to skip dealing
Online ordering systems can
wanting to experience great
with delivery personnel. Takeaway
close shop quickly. We have
restaurant food in the comfort
can scale well for kitchens that
already seen Delivery Hero and
of their own home. But over the
can sustain the throughput.
Foodora leave Australia abruptly,
past 10 years, large multinational
leaving restaurants scrambling
companies have entered the
Look at your pricing
Australian market, looking to
If Uber Eats or Deliveroo
place themselves between
are taking 35 per cent, you
restaurants and the customer.
should look at having different
Offer an ‘order direct and save’ campaign
The move has placed significant
pricing for customers ordering
Customers are loyal when they
pressure on margins, and some
through these channels. Some
are given loyalty discounts such
restaurants have closed after
restaurants have had success
as getting the tenth order free
accepting high numbers of
negotiating a lower rate of
after they order nine. The same
orders through these companies
commission and others have had
offer is provided by a number of
DELIVEROO
because they have been
a good experience increasing
online ordering services.
Its latest fundraising
shipping meals at a loss.
prices. One restaurant I spoke
to replace them.
The latest news from the big three players
round raised over AUD
of online ordering is more
cent and saw a decrease in
Focus on your dine-in experience
important than ever. The
order numbers, but retained the
The origin of the word
Deliveroo says the money
three main online ordering
same value by shipping each
restaurant is to restore the soul.
will be used to invest in its
aggregators in the Australian
order at a profitable price.
Some restaurants know this
London technology team
and do it very well. Enjoying the
and build new products.
Understanding the economics
with increased prices by 35 per
market are Deliveroo, Uber Eats
human interaction that comes
could help your venue get ahead
Leverage your POS or free restaurant online ordering systems
in the delivery game.
By using your POS or free online
be delivered.
and Menulog. Consider these tips, which
ordering systems, you cut out
Amazon as a core investor.
with dining out is an integral part of the product that can’t The introduction of large
Think about food packaging
the middleman. Venues can
order aggregator companies
capture customer details and
has fundamentally changed
Some meals travel well and others
provide a better service, be
online ordering, but we are
don’t. Pizza travels really well,
it delivery, pick-up or both.
seeing restaurants across
but burgers and chips don’t as
Some restaurants are saving
Australia using some or all of
they can become messy and are
thousands of dollars every
these techniques to not only
difficult to keep warm. Remember,
month by doing this.
survive online ordering, but to
you don’t have to deliver your
$827 million and included
UBER EATS Backed by Uber, the longterm play could be to deliver meals autonomously with self-driving vehicles which would dramatically decrease delivery costs.
thrive on it.
Build your database
James Eling is a global
MENULOG
If you don’t get the customer’s
restaurant marketer and
Look at offering takeaway only
Owned by UK company Just
email address, they aren’t your
the host of Secret Sauce,
Eat, Menulog has begun to
customer. Your database is a gold
a restaurant marketing
offer delivery in conjunction
Some customers are happy to
mine for turning new customers
podcast specialising in venue
with online ordering.
pick up their food from a venue
into repeat customers.
profitability. ■
entire menu.
10 | Hospitality
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BUSINESS PROFILE // Monique Fiso
Monique Fiso Aspiration and ambition — not expectations — are behind the hard-earned success of Monique Fiso. WORDS Madeline Woolway
MONIQUE FISO WAS always going to
thinking, “I know what I want to do, I
sights on kitchens outside New Zealand.
would go this way: TV shows, cookbooks,
an attitude that’s defined Fiso’s career.
chance conversation with a supplier led to
were not in her sights when she left
“I had high aspirations and ambitions,
suggested Fiso make the most of her
Cookery and Patisserie at the Wellington
thought, ‘I’m never going to reach that’,”
be a chef, but she never expected things
opening a restaurant and critical acclaim school early to complete a Diploma in Institute of Technology.
The 31-year-old chef, who hails from
Wellington and has Māori and Samoan
should just leave and get on with it.” It’s
but there were definitely times where I
says Fiso. “I didn’t think I would own a restaurant by 31.”
Back then, the hope was you might
heritage, made the decision to drop out of
become the executive chef of a restaurant
that is very different from the one she’s
trailblazing venue and working alongside
school and pursue a career in an industry working in today.
At the time, Fiso says she was
questioned about the choice to study a
“low-paying trade full of men”. But, there
was no doubt in her mind. She remembers 12 | Hospitality
Initially, London was calling, but a
a change in direction. The acquaintance
eligibility for a J-1 Visa and head to New York. “I hadn’t really considered it,” says
Fiso. “But I thought she made a really good point — what better place to challenge yourself than New York?”
after many years of hard work. Opening a
Following the same goal as the one she
the chefs whose autobiographies she’d
simple — cook. “The whole plan was: ‘I’m
devoured was something Fiso strived for, but didn’t expect. So with a head filled
with Marco Pierre White’s White Heat and Gordon Ramsay’s Humble Pie, Fiso set her
pursued when she left school, the idea was going to go to New York and work my way into Michelin-star kitchens’,” says Fiso. ‘Work’ being the operative word. “I
think there was a bit of luck on my side,”
BUSINESS PROFILE // Monique Fiso
“If I were to just do the restaurant and only the restaurant all the time, I think I would go insane. Having different outlets is good for me.” – Monique Fiso says Fiso. “[But] once I got in the door,
cooking on her own for 12 people at a
valuable so I could stay.”
the intensity of New York. “There was no
I worked like a beast to make myself
Having read Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen
Confidential, Fiso didn’t think it would
be easy. “I knew it would be hard,” she
says. “And it is really intense. It’s such a cutthroat city, margins are so small and
everything is expensive. You get pushed a lot harder…”
Fiso started as a cook on the hot line,
the only job opening available at Brad
Farmerie’s Michelin-starred Public, despite only having experience in cold larder and pastry. “I knew I was going to have to
time helped Fiso reorient herself after
one to hang out with [and] nothing to do except go to work and cook,” she says. It was exactly she needed. “I took all these ideas I had built up over the years and
went, ‘Alright, now let’s make them’. I had all the time and people to practice on.”
It was there, at the Riverview Lodge in
Hanmer Springs on the South Island, that her now applauded restaurant began to
take shape. “I started brainstorming the
idea for Hiakai and did the first pop-up.” Again, it was aspiration and ambition,
compete [with] people who were just as
not expectation that led to success. “I did
though my shift didn’t start until 3pm, I was
now,” reflects Fiso.
ambitious,” she says. “It meant that even
there by 10am learning everything I could.” It wasn’t just a lesson in work ethic and
discipline, though. The experience taught
the young chef what it would take to get to the same level of big-name chefs. “It’s not just about making good food ... it’s about running whole kitchens and businesses,” says Fiso.
Fiso rose to the challenge New York City’s kitchen’s presented, but progress came at
not think it would evolve into what it is
What Fiso and her team are doing at
Hiakai has been well-documented. The
attention is deserved — the work they’re doing with indigenous ingredients is
putting the spotlight on Māori cuisine — but praise shouldn’t be reserved for the
end result: Fiso has put as much thought into the organisation of her team as she has the dishes they plate up.
“One thing I never liked in kitchens
a cost and a realisation, which led to Fiso’s
was being set up to fail,” says Fiso. “You
to clear my head,” she says. “Even though
you’re expected to be ready for service and
decision to return to her roots. “I needed
New York was a great place to work, it can be a hard place to think.”
By the time she returned to New
Zealand in early 2016, Fiso had spent the entirety of her career cooking for
other chefs. “I needed to figure out what I
wanted to do and what my style was away from my bosses,” Fiso says of the decision to take a “step back”.
A summer gig at a remote fly-fishing lodge
never have enough time to prep and then perform at a high level.”
Her experience in the high-pressure
kitchens of the city that never sleeps has
led Fiso to do things differently at Hiakai. Despite being open from Wednesday to Saturday for dinner, Fiso pays her
kitchen staff for a fifth day which is solely dedicated to prep.
Again, Fiso has faced questioning over
her decision — for many in the hospitality July 2019 | 13
BUSINESS PROFILE // Monique Fiso industry, it seems counterintuitive to pay
She competed in Netflix’s The Final
into perspective for the new generation of
staff for a full day without the revenue of
Table while preparing to launch Hiakai’s
the impossible of them,” she says. “We
filmed an episode with Gordon Ramsay
more than glamorise the industry; they’ve
documentary Uncharted. In early August,
overnight success. But, Fiso is the first to
service. “People don’t feel like I’ve expected basically have two days [Tuesday and
Wednesday] to get everything in place,
which is why I think we’re executing at a
high level [and] because we’re executing
at a high level, people don’t mind paying a little more.”
Combined with an optional day of foraging
permanent iteration and she’s just
for the British chef’s new six-part food
she’ll host Australian chef and fellow The
Final Table alumni Mark Best for a dinner
event at Hiakai. Later that month, Fiso will head to the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, for The Curated Plate food festival. Although Fiso acknowledges the
on Mondays — which most of the kitchen
importance of taking time out after periods
to level up her staff’s understanding of the
own restlessness. “I get bored,” she says.
crew take up — the approach allows Fiso ingredients they’re working with. “That’s why we’re here,” she says.
Teaching staff to use the indigenous
ingredients of Aotearoa, many of
which have been all but forgotten by
commercial kitchens, is a slow process. At first, the focus is on executing the
of slogging it, she also recognises her
“Sometimes I worry about myself with this.
chefs coming up.
Television and social media have done
made some young chefs look like an
point out her achievements did not come immediately —she’s been working in
kitchens since she was 14. “That’s 18 years at this,” she says. “You really have to put in the work, which I think a lot of young people coming into the industry now
don’t understand. There are a lot of years
grinding it out before anyone really knows who the hell you are.”
If I were to just do the restaurant and only
Fiso is no stranger to grinding it out,
go insane. Having different outlets is good
know the difference between your own
the restaurant all the time, I think I would for me. I can engage different parts of my brain and it makes me more excited to be
but if her experience has a lesson, it’s to aspirations and external expectations.
“Now you’ve got kids who are in school,
in the restaurant.”
or just out of school, who are like, ‘In two
names of produce. Then, attention shifts
following in the footsteps of respected
and my own show’,” she says. “You don’t
through foraging. “It makes more sense to
stages of her career, and collaborating with
dishes and identifying and learning the to building more in-depth knowledge
them if they’ve gone out and picked [the produce],” says Fiso. “Once we feel like
they’ve got it down, they [can] run food to the chef’s counter and explain the dishes.” A low-pressure culture and time are
essential to retaining staff in what could
otherwise be an intimidating environment. Now, with the restaurant open for only a little over six months, Fiso isn’t about to start resting on her laurels. 14 | Hospitality
It’s more than restlessness, though;
chefs was a driver for Fiso in the early others is what keeps her inspired.
Fiso honed her skills managing multiple
projects while running the Hiakai pop-ups. Still, no amount of organisation can make up for having a well-trained team in place
at Hiakai. “The number one thing I’ve had
to learn to do and am still trying to improve and do better is delegating,” says Fiso. Just as empowering staff is a clear
concern for Fiso, so too is putting things
years’ time, I’m going to have an empire
even know how to make bechamel properly yet. It’s going to be a lot longer than that.”
Fiso’s advice? Work hard, but know when
to take a step back. “It’s so tempting to go
from the next thing to the next thing to the next thing and not stop,” she says. “More
often than not, you end up in a place where you think, ‘How did I even get here?’” Fiso’s career has been punctuated by decisions informed in equal parts by
instinct and rumination. Of it all, she says, “It’s been a wild ride.” ■
ITALIAN INSPIRED
AUSTRALIAN BY NATURE
DRINKS // Tea
Spill the tea
There’s no denying coffee has dominated the cafe scene in Australia, but are the tides turning towards tea? WORDS Madeline Woolway
THE EVERGREEN TEA plant Camellia
is like”. The trend has proven to be one
cafés may historically have been the
was the British who introduced Australia
Lab’s extensive menu, which also includes
low-grade leaves, but Johnston has seen a
sinensis is native to East Asia, however it to tea after the UK began producing the
product in India during the 19th century.
of the most popular items on Botanical traditional teas, iced tea and tisanes.
Although tea was once a highly prized and
For Gunjan Aylawadi, who owns the
commoditised. Now, we are largely black
CBD, it’s not just wellness driving customers
expensive luxury good, it has since become tea with milk drinkers, who pay limited
attention to the nuances found in different preparations of the shrub’s cured leaves.
Health and wellness trends are behind an
recently opened Flyover Fritterie in Sydney’s
rapidly,” says Johnston. “Kombucha is
one of the fastest-growing categories in
Tea does have caffeine, but even the
the amount doled out by a cup of joe. “You
their go-to tea or coffee is, just to see what
their palate is like,” she says. “We also offer
tea blending workshops, which are all about giving more information to consumers.”
drink so many cups of chai — it’s not even
it’s made of and the method it’s made by.
up for counting.”
The attribute is helping tea play catch-
to-drink or bottled teas.
as coffee, but it’s definitely gaining a
Others in the industry have also noted
teas, Le starts with the same approach a
It’s not just about quantity, though — any
They’re words Aylawadi lives by: “We
up with Australia’s otherwise coffee-crazed
the effect of consumers’ current obsession
When it comes to helping consumers
can’t, but we can drink tea,” says Johnston.
the world.” Increasing by 4 per cent, the
beverage is moving quickly, as are ready-
sommelier training starting to happen now.”
sommelier would take. “I ask them what
lighter on caffeine.
can’t drink coffee all day, or most people
blends and wellness blends are growing
development of late and we’ve got tea
looking for an afternoon pick-me-up that’s
but black tea remains flat, according to Masters, Sharyn Johnston. “Functional
menus. “I’ve done quite a lot of tea menu
navigate their vast menu of designer
the Indian brew are appealing to drinkers
stronger varieties clock in at well under
founder and director of Australian Tea
change, with many venues introducing tea
to her chai house. Aylawadi’s various riffs on
approximate 3 per cent increase in sales of
green tea, blended teas and herbal tisanes,
domain of opaque tea bags packed with
culture. “It’s nowhere near as popular following,” says Le.
variety of tea is only as good as the leaves When it comes to sourcing and storing
tea, following a few simple rules is all it
takes to maintain a high standard. A good supplier should offer tasting notes, be
transparent about origin and help select the right range to suit different venues,
explains Johnston. Brewing instructions
with health and wellness. “It’s weird
Based on the observations of Aylawadi,
Le, general manager of Botanical Lab, a
for both beverages in the market — the
with a Sydney-based supplier who uses
gap between the two.
leaves as a base for Flyover Fritterie’s custom
to see trends come and go,” says Linda
tea-house-cum-florist in Brisbane’s Fish
Lane. Since opening in November 2018,
Le has noticed bubble tea sales surge, too, suggesting they’ve “re-invented what tea 16 | Hospitality
Johnston and Le, there’s clearly room
question is whether venues can bridge the “If you can understand coffee, you can
understand tea,” says Johnston. Australian
are also worth their weight in gold.
To source her chai, Aylawadi works closely
premium-quality single-estate assam tea chai blends. When it comes to the brew,
it’s all about balance. “The black tea has to
shine,” says Aylawadi. “It can’t just be
Le, however, does caution against
really strong notes of cloves or cinnamon.”
machine. “Coffee shops often use the hot
about spices. A lot of the time, chai [has] The spices shouldn’t overpower the tea.
To keep their organic tea — sourced from
the urge to rely on any old espresso
water from the coffee machine, but it’s
so easy to burn the tea leaves,” she says. Water quality in Australia is
Taiwan and China — in peak condition,
generally adequate for tea brewing
glasses. “[With] too much air and too
aware of the details that could be
Botanical Lab stores their bags in amber much light, it loses flavour,” explains Le. On the topic of bags, Johnston says
pyramid, biodegradable bags are just as good as loose leaf tea. “What you
put in the bag is what’s important for
purposes, but it’s important to be
affecting the cupping quality for better or worse. “I feel people don’t pay
attention to those details, which makes a difference,” says Le.
the quality of the tea,” she says. The
Ultimately, the onus is on the industry
chamber opaque bags associated with
misrepresented beverage. Even with
style of bag is also crucial. The doublesupermarket brands don’t allow the tea to infuse properly.
Once introduced to the world of tea,
Johnston says most drinks professionals
will find an exciting new world to explore and realise the parallels to coffee. “They often grow in the same countries next
to each other and their terroirs are often
to turn the tables on what’s become a the added cost of premium leaves and methodical preparation, the
margins remain high. “The good thing about tea is that it’s the highest profit
area,” says Johnston. “It’s a lot easier to make money out of tea than coffee.”
So? “Make your tea offering as good
as your coffee offering,” says Johnston. ■
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very similar,” she says. There are even
similarities in brewing. “The tea sommelier program is really focused on training
people to be able to use things they have in a café,” adds Johnston. “It’s interesting for people to learn alternate brews.”
Johnston lists pour overs such as
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“If you can understand coffee, you can understand tea.” – Sharyn Johnston
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July 2019 | 17
Wide footpaths and level entry between public and private spaces at King Street precinct
FEATURE // Accessibility
Access all areas Almost 20 per cent of Australia’s population is living with a disability. What’s your venue doing to make sure their dining out experience is positive? WORDS Madeline Woolway IT’S BEEN OVER 27 years since the
Australian government passed the Disability Discrimination Act 1992 (Cth). Designed to
disfigurement; or medical condition or work-related injury”.
Under the Disability Discrimination
an Advance Diploma in Hospitality Management at TAFE NSW.
But things are changing, with
prevent discrimination against people with
Act (DDA), both direct and indirect
developers such as Lendlease working with
employment, education as well as the
lists refusing entry to a person with a
the King Street precinct in Brisbane,
disabilities in a number of areas including
provision of goods and services, it also aims to promote an inclusive community.
Australian Bureau of Statistics data from
2015 reveals 4.3 million Australians report living with a disability. Of those aged 15
discrimination are unlawful. The AHRC vision impairment who is accompanied by a guide dog as an example of direct
discrimination along with not providing a ramp or lift for access.
accessibility front of mind. When building the Lendlease team took into account
everything from footpath width and the
design of entryways to countertop heights and amenities.
“We’ve worked closely with each of the
and over and living in a household, one in
The issue extends beyond the law. While
food and beverage operators in terms of
unfair treatment.
still aren’t doing enough to truly welcome
their restaurants and outlets will be laid
12 reported experiencing discrimination or
According to the Australian Human
Rights Commission’s (AHRC) 2016 report
many businesses adhere to protocol, they customers with a disability.
A ramp might allow access to the
premises, but is there enough room for
the design of their shopfronts and the way out,” says Matthew Miller, development director Qld at Lendlease.
diners to move around freely once seated?
Over his seven-year career, Shanahan
can be permanent or temporary. This
as many [seats] in as they can, but they
dining experience. He hopes to rectify a
neurological, learning or psychosocial
says Craig Shanahan, a chef with vision
Access for all: Improving accessibility for consumers with disability, disabilities
includes “physical, intellectual, sensory, disability; a disease or illness; physical 18 | Hospitality
“I understand people want to just get
don’t generally think about accessibility,” impairment, who recently completed
has built up a list of issues that affect the number of them when he opens his own venue later in the year.
On the agenda is educating staff. “People
impaired people,” says Shanahan. Menus aren’t
What can your business do better?
and tables are frequently littered with excess
There are a number of
often presented in an accessible manner either cutlery, napkins, glasses and decorations.
national and state-based
“Everyone is cutting down on staff, so they put
peak bodies that advocate
cutlery and serviettes on the table in a container,”
and provide information
he says. Shanahan, who has some vision in one
specific to different needs.
eye, has found himself feeling around to find the
Here are a few resources to
cutlery he needs to enjoy a meal.
get you started on the journey
Shanahan recommends looking at options
toward accessibility.
including Braille (although usage is declining), as well as making sure menus are readily available
The Australian Network on
and easy to find on websites.
Disability offers tools for
“On our phones, we have voiceover, so if
assessing and benchmarking
you have your menu online, you can read it
your businesses’ accessibility
off there,” he says. “I’m going to have iPads, probably two or three.”
as well as consultancy services to help improve strategy.
Ultimately, it’s about the customer journey from
and.org.au
make them feel welcome,” says Shanahan.
The Australian Federation
beginning to end. “Customers are number one,
“Customers are number one, make them feel welcome.” – Craig Shanahan
“A lot of [vision-impaired] people I’ve met have one café they go to because they don’t like
going to others just for the fact they almost feel like they aren’t going to get treated in the same way.”
It often comes down to a snowball effect
of Disability Organisation provides a wide range of resources about disability, discrimination, access, communication and more. afdo.org.au
starting with poor website design (making Craig Shanahan Photography Jo Dentrinos
information hard to find), bad seating
arrangements, a hard-to-read menu and
untrained staff. All of these elements combined can lead to a lackluster experience.
The Australian Human Rights Commission has a number of guides intended to help businesses understand and better implement the
Being in the business of hospitality should be considered grounds to go above and beyond the stipulations laid out in the DDA, which
Disability Discrimination Act, as well as the rights of people living with disability.
means ensuring staff are equipped with the
humanrights.gov.au
venue is inclusive.
Good Access is Good
knowledge and tools needed to ensure the “It’s our default position now,” says Miller.
“We’re trying to create great places … A great
place should not discriminate against anyone.
The only way you can do that is to make them absolutely fully accessible.”
Business reports are available from a number of government bodies, including local councils. A comprehensive checklist for cafés and restaurants is
As an industry built on socialising, operating
under a social model of disability should be a key concern — that means thinking about the way spaces, rather than disabilities, inhibit people.
There’s a lot to learn. “I understand how
people may not know; I didn’t understand much about these things before I became blind,” says Shanahan.
But, the onus is on the industry to create
available through the City of Melbourne. The guide covers everything from access to and within a premises, provision of information, staff training and communication skills and a plethora of other considerations. melbourne.vic.gov.au
inclusive spaces. ■
July 2019 | 19
FEATURE // Accessibility
aren’t aware of how to go about helping vision-
FEATURE // Airport venues
Up up and away
AIRPORTS HAVE LONG been the domain of
Savvy operators aren’t just heading to the airport for a holiday — they’re opening venues in them.
for a meal on the go or a celebratory
WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Kevin Li for ST. Ali
20 | Hospitality
Chef and restaurateur Mike McEnearney
fast food operators and overpriced fare, but it
didn’t hesitate when the opportunity to
and are looking to replicate premium
Airport presented itself. “In 2015, I was
seems execs have had a change of direction, dining experiences found in their respective cities. Airports present an opportunity to
leave a lasting impression on domestic and international tourists — not to forget the thousands of employees working on-site. With 36.7 million people moving
open Kitchen by Mike (KBM) at Sydney approached by Emirates, who had been
circling KBM for quite some time,” he says. “They had done their research and looked
at what KBM was and thought it would fit perfectly in the airport landscape.”
Launching the brand at the international
through Melbourne Airport in FY17/18
airport in 2017 was not just a business
Airport in 2018, operators are guaranteed
and his family travel frequently, and the
and 44.4 million travelling through Sydney a constant stream of customers keen
Champagne. Mike McEnearney from
Kitchen by Mike and ST. Ali’s Salvatore Malatesta talk to Hospitality about
expanding their customer bases, appealing to the masses and the ebbs and flows of managing airport outlets.
decision, but a personal one. McEnearney chef saw a gap in the market for healthy,
whole foods. “I jumped at the opportunity
to give travellers a chance to eat what they wanted to eat — it would change my life
and other people’s lives,” he says. The chef went on to open a second airport outlet,
Kitchen by Mike Express, in early 2018 in the casual dining precinct.
FEATURE // Airport venues
Salvatore Malatesta received a similar
phone call last year asking if he was
interested in opening ST. Ali in Melbourne Airport. “My initial response was it was
going to be difficult to staff, but it was really exciting,” he says. After going through the tender process, ST. Ali launched in the
international terminal in April, and it’s been
full steam ahead ever since. “We get to serve
coffee to everyone who is leaving Melbourne or who comes to Melbourne for a holiday, and that’s pretty great,” says Malatesta.
“Who doesn’t want 125,000 people walking past their door every day?”
Staffing venues is tricky at the best of
times, and for outlets located in difficult areas, it’s even harder. Sydney Airport
expensive, the minute you pass Green
fee of $14.30 is tacked on top of the
the chef. “Parking is also very expensive, so
is accessible by train, but a ‘gate pass’
‘rail component’ fare, which can result
in transport costs around the $20 mark.
There’s no airport train line in Melbourne, meaning staff have to rely on buses or
airport parking. Whichever way you look at it, commuting is a costly exercise for employees and employers alike.
Key staff members from ST. Ali were
relocated to the airport outlet, and
Malatesta has tried to make the transition
as smooth as possible. “It’s far away if you don’t live around the area and the hours are 5am until midnight, which is a long
day,” he says. “Employees have been taken
care of from a remunerative perspective to
compensate for travel time, parking and all that kind of stuff.”
ST. Ali has a unique business model
where a number of roles are kept ‘in the
cloud’, enabling the business to remain fluid and adapt to changes. “We have a culinary director, a costing chef, an executive chef
Square, you’re paying private prices,” says it’s not an easy place for people to travel
to for work. But there are some perks we
Mike has two
an airport
outlets in Sydney
apparel
international
line
airport
and McEnearney both use the example of
ST. Ali
KBM serves up to
hope
1000 customers
for a standalone venue, but can be make
to open
during the
in LAX
breakfast rush
have a great team, so you just have to get over the speed humps and work out how you can look after your staff.”
Security is naturally high in airports, and it can be a learning curve for operators to get the hang of protocol. Malatesta
running out of milk, which isn’t a big deal or break for an airport operator. “It’s not as easy as texting your supplier and saying, ‘I’m out, can you rock up in the next 10 minutes?’” says Malatesta. “Everything has to go through security. It involves
careful planning, which is not normally synonymous with food and beverage
operations, so we’ve had to improve that.” Kitchen by Mike has experienced the same
whenever we need them. We refer to those
within the airport, your deliveries have to
roles as ‘insurance’, so if anyone goes down or there’s a new opening, we’ve got it
covered and it doesn’t affect service because someone can step in. We have the financial capacity for those roles, so why not make
delivery conundrum. “As a restaurant
go through the X-ray tunnel, so if you order
milk, you might not see it for a day because it gets stuck or sometimes other people are
bringing in a lot of stuff,” says McEnearney.
everyone’s lives easier?”
There’s also the matter of staff inductions,
has always made the effort to look after
briefings for all employees. McEnearney
McEnearney says Kitchen by Mike
staff, and is understanding of the high
travel costs. “A ticket to the airport is very
Kitchen by
has created
have given staff to make travel easier. We
and a head chef,” says Malatesta. “Those
roles are sitting in the cloud for us to access
ST. Ali
extensive paper work and security
remembers the early days working at the airport before he received his aviation
July 2019 | 21
FEATURE // Airport venues
security identification card (ASIC). “When you have a visitors pass, you need to be
accompanied by an ASIC cardholder and
stay within 10 metres of them at all times,” he says. “To get the ASIC card, you need
to pass a test and have ID and background checks done. The security is immense, but
you get used to it. The airport does a great
job at making it easy and we need to make it easy for staff as well.”
Airports are tense environments for
workers and commuters, and staff need to be equipped to deal with each and every customer. Malatesta has observed three types of travellers: anxious, happy and
efficient, and says they all require different types of service. “The efficient traveller wants coffee quickly so they can go to
appropriate level of service to customers.”
facilities. ST. Ali culinary director Daniel
confused, so they need nurturing at point
facilitate the traveller experience across
consists of the most popular dishes from the
martinis and Champagne and sit in the
unique environment they’re operating in.
the lounge, the anxious traveller is a bit
of sale and happy travellers order espresso café until they get on the plane,” he says.
“Travelling is a tense experience — you’re going through security and people are
checking your passport, so staff are trained to look for those signs and provide the
The team at Kitchen by Mike aim to
both outlets, but are conscious of the
“The demographic is enormous, people
aren’t coming to KBM, they’re flying out of an airport — it’s very different,” says McEnearney. “Airports have a captive
audience, and they’re only coming to you
because you’re the best of the batch. What you’re serving might not be aligned with
Yarra Place café. “We’ve had to repurpose best sellers knowing we don’t have a
full kitchen at our disposal, so it’s been
challenging,” says Malatesta. There were
also a few limitations in the kitchen which
came as a surprise to the team. “The knives are tied to the bench with strong wiring, so there are a few things to get used to.”
Kitchen by Mike is a produce-driven
what customers are looking for — some
concept and the menu changes twice a
but we serve house-made sourdough and
spring/summer theme. The team test new
people want white bread with margarine, cultured butter. We always do our best to
look after people, but the demographic is
much broader and entirely different to what we see in a restaurant out in the open.” Like Malatesta, McEnearney has
observed the different types of customers coming to Kitchen by Mike. “There are
people who want to rush through customs, clock on the holiday and have a drink
before they go on and others who want to have a drink with their family before they
go through customs,” he says. “Then there
are the 2000 staff members who eat at the airport, and they’re another part of the demographic we need to look after.”
You can’t please everyone, and designing an airport-friendly menu is a completely different process to creating a menu for
a standalone outlet. Chefs must consider the widespread audience (hello dietary requirements) and the limited kitchen 22 | Hospitality
Dobra put together an airport menu that
year in line with an autumn/winter and
dishes at the KBM outlet in the CBD due
to limited space in the venues and the fact producers aren’t able to easily access the venues. “We drive the connection with producers from the city and we think
about what we can execute at the airport
efficiently,” says McEnearney. “The airport kitchens are very tight, producers can’t
come and see me, and if you’re doing a busy breakfast service with 500–1000
people, you don’t have a great deal of space to start experimenting.”
Airports provide operators with an
invaluable opportunity to share their
concept with a domestic and international customer base. But as Malatesta puts it,
you have to look through a different lens in
order to succeed. From training staff to deal
with stressed commuters to putting together a menu that appeases the masses, the
market isn’t an easy one to crack, but if you can get it right, the world’s your oyster. ■
14-15 AUGUST 2019
INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY
If you own or work in independent grocery, a convenience store, a petrol station, a corner store or mini-mart, C&I expo is the one annual event you should not miss.
KEY FEATURES FOR 2019: C&I Industry Symposium
Leading P&C retailers and experts will present on the topic “Doing your own thing”, why it’s so beneficial to be clear about your brand and what you offer the customer.
New exhibitors, more technology
Improved technology to make equipment more efficient, to security systems which prevent store theft, we’re delighted to welcome several new exhibitors in 2019.
Categories on trend
Meet with market leaders in healthy snacking, meal replacements and functional beverages.
More networking
Happy Hour drinks on the show floor from 4:30pm on Wednesday
AACS Convenience Leaders Summit
With a great line-up of local and international speakers, the Summit takes place on Thursday at ICC Sydney.
REGISTER NOW www.candiexpo.com.au
1300 789 845
exhibition@c-store.com.au
EQUIPMENT // Pastry brush
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Keep sweet and savoury
available in natural, silicon and plastic.
brushes separate. Silicon brushes can leave liquid pools or Pastry brushes ensure
streaks on pastry.
minimal wastage of liquids when glazing, basting and egg-washing.
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24 | Hospitality
VIDEO // Pandan waffle
Pandan waffle
with The Butcher’s Block Barangaroo head chef Kanharith Kim An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.
1
2
3
4
5
6
KANHARITH KIM SHOWS us how to make one of The Butcher’s Block’s signature dishes, the pandan waffle. The waffle combines pandan extract with a light batter to create a crisp waffle that’s not too sweet. Mascarpone is combined with pandan and matcha to add creaminess and balance the dish, which is finished off with maple syrup, fresh fruit and feuilletine.
Ingredients 300g self-raising flour 90g cornflour 4g baking soda 45g castor sugar 5gm salt 650ml milk 240ml grapeseed oil 3 eggs 10g vanilla essence 3gm pandan extract 1 tsp matcha powder 4 tbsp mascarpone Feuilletine
Method Mix the flour, cornflour, castor sugar and salt and sieve to remove any lumps. In a separate bowl, combine milk with oil, vanilla and pandan extract. Crack eggs into the dry mixture before adding wet ingredients to dry ingredients and baking soda. Mix until batter is smooth. Pour batter into lightly greased waffle machine and turn. While waiting, combine mascarpone with pandan extract and matcha powder. Turn waffle machine again and wait until cooked. Carefully remove waffle and dress with maple syrup. Top with fresh fruit, mascarpone and feuilletine. Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au
July 2019 | 25
5 MINUTES WITH ... // Hayden McMillan
Hayden McMillan The Neptune head chef on finding your own style, creating innovative food and working for yourself. I ALWAYS LIKED cooking from a young
Style changes as you get older, as you
source as much sustainable seafood
amazing cooks or anything — it’s not one
with food. Until then, your style mirrors
grilled meats over charcoal, so we’re
age. My Mum and my Grandma weren’t
of those stories. I liked cooking at home
and school wasn’t for me, so I left pretty early and went straight to university in Auckland to train as a chef.
It wasn’t until I worked at Vinnies — one
of the best restaurants in New Zealand
(now closed) — that I saw the potential to make a real career out of it. I was always serious about it because I wanted to be good, but that was the next level up.
I was 25 when I got the head chef job
at TriBeCa, which was pretty young. You
can get a start in New Zealand because the industry is a bit smaller. Once you work at enough places, you become in demand. 26 | Hospitality
cook more and have more experiences a lot of the places you work at. When I was at Etta, I really found my own style. It’s always been sort of fresh,
lighter and produce-driven. Some of the
as we possibly can. We’re doing
sourcing grass-fed beef, and we’re doing some really awesome vegetarian dishes as well.
I left Etta so I could have more
stronger dishes I’ve made have all been
flexibility with my family. When you have
more of a challenge to turn a pumpkin
to make those sacrifices, like late nights,
vegetarian, for some reason. I find it
into something special compared to a
steak. Chefs should always innovate in
some way or another. The job is to give people something they can’t recreate at home.
The brief at Neptune is to create a
coastal Italian menu, so we’re trying to
a child, it changes things. I don’t want anymore. Working for other people is
also exciting. At Etta, we didn’t really
have a brief. I guess I felt the pressure
to be original and do things that hadn’t
been done. At Neptune, I don’t feel like
I have re-write everything. I’m enjoying going down the rabbit hole but staying within the brief.
■
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=$2195
02 9798 0586 www.kuvings.com.au Sydney Melbourne Brisbane Adelaide Perth
*Based on average wholesale cost to produce a litre of juice. **Based on avg. $8.00 cost of a glass of fresh juice.
LAST CHANCE FOR TICKETS! Christine Manfield
Jeremy Courmadias
Kylie Javier Ashton
MONDAY 29 JULY 2019 ROYAL RANDWICK RACECOURSE HOSTED BY
The industry’s premier conference takes place this month.
If you work in hospitality, this event is for you! We’ve got a star-studded line-up of speakers confirmed. They’ll be discussing social media marketing; attracting the right staff; products and merchandise; mental health; launching a new concept; future trends; and much more. Our keynote presenter is Nick Bowditch, the only man in Asia-Pacific to have worked for both Facebook and Twitter. He’ll talk social media and how to use stories to make more sales.
Other speakers include: Christine Manfield • Jeremy Courmadias • Kylie Javier Ashton Sven Almenning • Nadine Ingram • Justin North Tickets include lunch and networking drinks. Thanks to our sponsors
To see the full timetable and to book your tickets, visit www.hospleaders.com.au
