Hospitality July 2021 by The Intermedia Group

NO.774 JULY 2021

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NO.774 JULY 2021

PLANT-BASED DINING • OLD-SCHOOL DESSERTS • AUSTRALIAN SEAWEED

CONTENTS // July

Contents JULY 2021

Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS How an oyster app is out to revolutionise the industry. 12 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

18 // DRINKS The margarita is back in a big way. 24 // PROFILE Max Smith on knowing what you want to get out of the industry. 72 // BEHIND THE SCENES A take on an Old Fashioned.

Features 32 // DESSERTS What’s old is new again. 38 // SEAWEED The super-sustainable sea vegetable has plenty of promise as a local industry.

14 // PRODUCE Buddha’s hand is nicer than it looks.

74 // EQUIPMENT Saint Peter’s fish weight.

44 // PLANT-BASED DINING The benefits of a plant-based menu speak for themselves.

16 // BEST PRACTICE Up your recruitment game to secure staff.

76 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Berowra Waters Inn’s Lauren Eldridge.

60 // LATE-NIGHT TRADING It’s time to go out again. 68 // THE PEOPLE_ The new hospitality group doing things differently.

4 | Hospitality

www.compostconnect.org

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

HLS IS UPON US If you haven’t got your ticket yet — you’re overdue! @hospitalitymagazine

Return and earn WHAT GOES AROUND comes around

the former head chef of Cho Cho San who

and what’s old is new again. Whether it’s

worked in the UK under Gordon Ramsay

a lamington or a margarita, both sayings

before jumping on a plane to Sydney. After a

have never been more accurate. This issue,

decade in the industry, he launched his own

we look at the margarita mania (especially

condiment line, which has been flying off

spicy margs) that has well and truly taken

virtual and physical shelves ever since.

venues by storm. If you haven’t mastered

July also covers my favourite citrus —

a salty/spicy rim or are looking at infusing

Buddha’s hand — upping the ante when it

chillies in tequila — you might want to jump

comes to recruitment processes, how to get

on board now.

in on plant-based dining and steals a few

Moving on to the food side, we cover

NEW GIRL IN TOWN An ethereal interior and a seafoodleaning menu: hello, Lana. @hospitalitymagazine

minutes with Pastry Chef Lauren Eldridge.

three iconic sweet treats: the lamington, the brownie and gelato and talk to the makers

I hope you enjoy this issue.

doing things a little differently. Someone

Annabelle Cloros

else forging their own path is Max Smith,

Editor

WHAT TERRINE’S ARE MADE OF An evening at Hubert always delivers. @annnabellecloros

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GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422.

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6 | Hospitality

www.granapadano.it

IN FOCUS // SmartOysters

8 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // SmartOysters

Modernising oysters Oyster production fell far behind demand even before the floods in New South Wales. An app was created to change that. WORDS Kirsty Sier OYSTERS HAVE ALWAYS been an

just like, ‘Yep, I’m just going to work

manually put information in after work.”

intensive to produce, difficult to scale up

money as the next person’, but that’s not

oyster baskets, of which 600 to 1,000 are

“We realised the farm needed to be more

into 16 different sizes and eight different

expensive product: they are labour-

and market demand far outweighs output. Recent floods further proved just how

vulnerable the oyster industry is to natural events. The floods, which drowned the coastline and stretched 600 kilometres

from Sydney to the Northern Rivers, had a

devastating effect on the state’s aquaculture industry. Almost all New South Wales

oysters — which account for 55 per cent

of annual production — are out of action

until water habitats return to normal. Other states have tried to compensate, but there

is still a nationwide shortage that has led to increased oyster prices across the country. According to Oysters Australia, only 3

per cent of Australian oysters are exported — more than 80 per cent to Hong Kong,

Singapore and Japan — because there are none to export. Oyster farmers have faced a conundrum for a while now. Due to the

near-impossible nature of scaling up oyster farming operations and output, there was

never a way to meet the insatiable demand for oysters in the Australian market, let alone an international marketplace.

twice as hard and I’ll make twice as much how it works,” McAsh tells Hospitality.

efficient, so we started modernising the

cultivation methods and getting automated

grading machines. But as I was doing those

things, I realised we weren’t making enough money for the wholesale supply chains.

“We need more abundant oysters and we need to be able to afford to eat more generally because they’re not cheap.” – Ewan McAsh “Ultimately, farm management always

The issue became apparent to Batemans

fell down; I was the only one who knew

he went into business with his father. “I

day, so operations were always on me. The

Bay oyster farmer Ewan McAsh soon after went in on an oyster farm my dad was

purchasing, and being quite naive, I was

what to do and when to do it on any given

management system just didn’t work; it was complex, it required you to sit down and

McAsh’s farm comprises roughly 40,000

handled each day. The oysters are classed crops, with the baskets deployed in more than 200 different locations.

All oysters need to be graded once every

four months. They are also air-dried once

every two to five weeks during the oyster’s growth period of three years.

Until recently, the only way for a farmer to keep on top of their task list was to

manually enter data into a system that

tracks what stage an oyster basket was at. Reminders were also manually scheduled

to give workers an understanding of what tasks they needed to complete.

Four years ago, McAsh went looking for

a solution. When he couldn’t find one, he decided to create one himself. With the

help of his partners and co-founders, McAsh created SmartOysters, an app that uses GPS technology to map an oyster farmer’s lot

and automatically capture data. The data

gives oyster farmers insights into their farm performance and value. It also frees up

their time from manual data entry and task scheduling, which in turn frees up more time for upscaling operations.

“What other oyster-management systems

aim to do is standardise farming,” says

McAsh. “They ask the farmer to conform to July 2021 | 9

IN FOCUS // SmartOysters

“The app records stock movements from the first instance and it works because most farmers visualise their farm as a map.” – Ewan McAsh certain ways of entering data in order to get

the amount of oysters available again.

What we did instead was use GPS maps —

the production of oysters, which is why we

reports and summaries from the software. almost like Google Maps for your farm. “In oyster farming, there is a lot of

launched SmartOysters.

“If I talk to my broker who sells my

handling and stock movements happening

oysters, they represent about 20 oyster

The app records stock movements from the

baskets a week when the supply is there.

and most farmers try to remember it all. first instance and it works because most farmers visualise their farm as a map.

“Operationally, we focus on collecting

information but also scheduling tasks. You

can drop a pin to record how many baskets

are on a line and the size of a crop, and the app automatically schedules a task. So in

four months’ time, it will tell you to come back and inspect them and grade them. “Just about every farmer I’ve come

farmers and they sell about 20,000 dozen But they could sell an additional 20,000

dozen. There’s a huge demand for oysters. But in order for the industry to actually

grow, we need to be able to scale up farm

practices, encourage more young people to come in and use farming data to help derisk farms and help growers attract bank

loans and investment capital. It’s what we need for the industry to grow.

“The other thing is oysters should be more

across in any sector — aquaculture or

affordable and more accessible if we can

of, ‘I’ve built up all this knowledge and

and we need to be able to afford to eat more

land farming — has the same experience expertise farming on my patch but it’s

really hard to transfer’. You have to do

grow more. We need more abundant oysters generally because they’re not cheap.”

The app has been commercially available

a 10-year apprenticeship to learn what I

for two years. In that time, McAsh’s clients

the unique farm practice and then gives

the world — Australia, New Zealand, the

know, but we built an app that captures you the ability to share it.”

When asked what he wants oyster farmers

now include 50 farmers from all around

United Kingdom, the United States and the United Arab Emirates.

McAsh says he’s realised the need for

to get out of the SmartOysters app, McAsh

technology, not just in aquaculture, but in

the app will finally enable a boon in the

had interest from mussel farmers, seaweed

says: “A good night’s sleep”. He also hopes production of oysters — and a subsequent price drop in the broader market.

“I’ve been farming for 16 years and

we’ve just been able to bring on new

people to help us grow the business,” he says. “We’ve been having double

production on our farm. And yet, we

never have enough. Generally, there’s an

undersupply of oysters. The industry hasn’t grown in decades; we haven’t produced

any more. And when you have disasters

like the floods or the bushfires, it reduces 10 | Hospitality

There has always been a need to increase

farming practice more generally. “We’ve farmers, fish farmers — we’re actually

looking to launch those products because

we know they need solutions just as much

as oyster farmers,” he says. “I meet so many farmers who work on a river in a beautiful environment cultivating sustainable

seafood, yet they’re distracted because

they’re trying to remember all the things

they need to do in a day. With something

like SmartOysters, you can knock off with

a clear head, have a good night’s sleep and grow twice as many oysters.” ■

www.simp lotfoodser vice.com.a u

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Native tea range expands Social enterprise Kakadu Plum Co. has added Bush Gumby and Berry Myrtle to its tea collection. The berry beverage combines lemon, cinnamon and aniseed myrtles with pepper leaf and pepper berry plus rosella, resulting in a tingly mouthfeel. Gumby gumby is the showcase ingredient in the Bush tea, and comes from a small shrub. Kakadu Plum Co. works with Indigenous Australians, who harvest ingredients for the tea range. kakaduplumco.com

A chefs’ guide to kid-friendly cooking Cooking for Your Kids: At Home with the World’s Greatest Chefs Phaidon; $59.95 100 chefs from across the globe have put forward recipes that are sure to please the pickiest of tiny eaters in Cooking for Your Kids. All the dietaries are covered with vegan, vegetarian, gluten- and dairyfree options from chefs including Palisa Anderson, Ben Shewry and Karena Armstrong. Each recipe is accompanied by a story from the author alongside photography and tips to ensure flawless execution. Highlights include Greek doughnuts with honey and yoghurt; butter prawns and taro wedges and a green papaya salad. phaidon.com

12 | Hospitality

Shanghai gin hits local shores Shanghai distillery Peddlers Gin Co has entered the Australian market with Rare Shanghai gin. The gin is made according to the London dry method in a copper still and is infused with botanicals including Buddha’s hand, lotus flower, Yunnan mint and Sichuan pepper from the mountains of Hanyuan. Available through proofandcompany.com

The Sydney Opera House has kicked off a monthly long lunch that will see guests visit eateries in and around the iconic venue. The three-hour experience commences with a cocktail-making class at Opera Bar and a seafood tasting plate at the raw bar before moving to Opera Kitchen for beer and salumi and a how-to on making the perfect poke bowl. Portside Sydney will serve the main before the lunch concludes at Bennelong with the chocolate crackle by Peter Gilmore for dessert. Tickets are $295 per person with the lunch hosted on the last Sunday of the month. sydneyoperahouse.com

Nationwide compost network launches Compost Connect is an online food-waste-reduction initiative that links venues with composters across the country. Currently, the industry produces one million tonnes of organic waste a year, which is an incredible figure that has to change. Compost Connect is currently servicing 2,200 postcodes with the aim to scale up to 4,000. It has already diverted 4,500 tonnes of organics and packaging from landfill and processed it into compost in less than 12 weeks. For more information, visit compostconnect.org

Le Shoppe opens in Melbourne Scott Pickett has launched Le Shoppe: an offshoot of Chancery Lane bistro on Little Collins Street in Melbourne’s CBD. The venue is a riff on a corner store, offering everything from cheese and charcuterie to wine, coffee and rotating takeaway options. Rob Kabboord has curated a menu that encompasses quiche Lorraine, crêpes Suzette and a Borrowdale pork belly sandwich with crackling, coleslaw and apple chutney. leshoppe.com.au Photography by Alex Squadrito

Cobram Estate releases First Harvest 12 months of ideal conditions has led to the “best harvest yet” at Cobram Estate in Northern Victoria. “Come harvest time, the trees were super heavy with fruit,” says Chief Oil Maker Leandro Ravetti. “More fruit means the olives ripen more slowly, they’re greener for longer and that extra greenness imparts the oil with more flavour.” First Harvest sees olives cold-pressed within six hours of picking, with buyers encouraged to consume it as soon as possible for maximum enjoyment. cobramestate.com.au July 2021 | 13

NEWS // Entrée

Taste of the House

PRODUCE // Buddha’s hand

Buddha’s hand The citrus that’s much sweeter than it looks. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

BUDDHA’S HAND IS a fragrant citron that’s

of produce. Farmers in South Australia and

green in colour before turning bright yellow to

in a league of its own for myriad reasons.

New South Wales grow it in small numbers

orange. Mature fruit can grow anywhere from

The fruit has pith, but contains little to no

due to demand.

6-12 inches in size.

GROWTH AND HARVEST

difficult to pack. Due to its niche status, it is

pulp, juice or seeds. Instead, the rind of each finger-like segment is highly prized. Buddha’s hand is known by the scientific

The unusual shape makes the fruit Buddha’s hand is best suited to a temperate

typically picked by hand, which is a labour-

name Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis and

climate and is in peak season from late-

intensive process.

is also referred to as the fingered citron and

autumn through to winter. It will not survive

even goblin fingers. There are many different

if the temperature drops below 5 degrees

FLAVOUR PROFILE AND CULINARY

varieties of the fruit, especially in China, with

Celsius. The small trees or shrubs typically

APPLICATIONS

some appearing to be open-handed and

grow 2-5m high and can take around three

Buddha’s hand is not eaten fresh and its rind

others closed.

years to fruit. Full sun is required for optimum

is considered the most favourable element

growth and the plants need a moderate level

of the fruit. It emits a fragrant aroma likened

of watering.

to a combination of tangerine, kumquat,

ORIGINS The fruit is native to northeastern India, which

The trees have long branches covered in

is also where it is thought to have originated.

thorns and evergreen leaves that are oblong

been candied for centuries and is one of the

It’s believed to have been brought to China

in shape. It’s been described as one of the

most common uses. It can be made into a

by Buddhist monks, with the country also

‘prettier’ citron trees, with leaves reaching

marmalade or incorporated into a vodka- or

pinpointed as an origin source. Buddha’s hand

6 inches in size. The flowers grow in clusters

gin-based cocktail.

is predominantly grown in South-East Asia

and are incredibly fragrant with a pink-purple

The zest can be used in the same manner

and Japan, and is a relatively new addition to

tinge. The fruit hangs from the tree, with 5-20

as other citrus fruits and it is a bright addition

Australia where it is considered a niche type

‘fingers’ split from the stem. Buddha’s hand is

to salad dressings and desserts. ■

14 | Hospitality

lemon and osmanthus. The sweet rind has

PRODUCE // Buddha’s hand

Sells for around $25 a kilogram

Cultivated by Chinese farmers

A common

for centuries

addition to cocktails

Requires rich, well-drained soil

Mostly exported from Australia to Singapore and China Rich in essential oils

Closed fruit resembles the hand in prayer

July 2021 | 15

BEST PRACTICE // Staffing

Better recruiting leads to more success

Rethinking recruitment strategies can attract and retain valuable workers. WORDS Ken Burgin STAFF SHORTAGES ARE worse than ever,

Describe the modern, well-maintained

their skills with regular training and

and the same-old advertising won’t fix the

kitchen and any prestige brands you have

feedback. Mentioning ‘support for you

problem. Improving recruitment starts with

such as a Josper oven, Rational combi or

to achieve certificate two, three or four’

smarter advertising. Effective job ads need

Synergy grill. If it’s a front-of-house position,

tells prospective workers that time will

to take a marketing approach and highlight

talk about the La Marzocco or Synesso

be dedicated to helping them acquire

the benefits you offer a potential employee.

coffee machines and the well-designed

recognised industry skills.

Most ads are just a list of demands asking

workflow. High-volume is a plus if the

for a hard-working, keen, creative, energetic

business is organised and efficient with good

about a lifestyle change is empty if the reality

team player who’s enthusiastic, ‘committed

systems and a team that works well together.

is scarce, expensive accommodation and

to our ethos’, loves split shifts and is available every night and weekend. Really? If an ad talks about a profit bonus, it’s a major red flag for chefs, as is ‘opportunity to do

a loss of city services. Be prepared to offer

A positive culture has clear rules and a commitment

your own thing’, which is code for ‘we are

to people developing their

completely disorganised’.

skills with regular training

Replace this waste of words with the tangible benefits everyone is looking for.

and feedback.

Share the business name and location and provide information on transport and parking.

genuine help with housing and moving costs and talk proudly about the benefits of living in your town. It could be a major attraction for a family person. If you use a lot of great regional produce, don’t forget to include that. Staff shortages lead to pay rates increasing — sometimes, the award is not sufficient. You’ll need to meet the market with salaries and

Talk about the work culture: this is not

People will research you on Facebook and

about movies and music; it’s when people

Google, so be upfront about who you are.

look forward to going to work and stay

Talk about the daytime shifts, flexible

Are you recruiting for a rural area? Talking

conditions, which could mean a rethink of menu prices and opening hours. Professional recruiters and consultants

with you for years. Create an atmosphere

know the competitive pay rates and other

roster, provided uniform and award pay. If

of appreciation and encouragement for

places to look for applicants, even those

it’s a permanent position, remind applicants

young people taking on their first job and

who aren’t actively seeking a new position.

that it includes annual leave and holiday

for workers who may not be familiar with the

They’ll also move much more quickly with

pay. It may mean it’s time to cut back on split

location. Be careful about saying ‘we are a

applicants — same-day conversations, Zoom

shifts and endless weekends — do you need

family’ — sometimes this is code for ‘never

calls and a thorough vetting of background

to rethink your concept and service style if

argue with the owners’.

and experience happen fast. Upgrade your

you can’t get people to staff it? The supply of workers won’t be changing any time soon. 16 | Hospitality

A positive culture has clear rules and a commitment to people developing

recruitment advertising and systems and the leads will start to flow in. ■

n gestio Serving sug

something new to cheer about Available to order now!

DRINKS // Margaritas

18 | Hospitality

DRINKS // Margaritas

Mastering the

margarita

Thought to have first been created in 1938, the margarita is proving its staying power — in multiple forms. WORDS Kirsty Sier IT’S A LOVE story as old as time: a splash

list. As a venue specialising in the highest

the combo is often associated with a good

the margarita is their best-selling drink.

of tequila and a squeeze of lime. Although time, its history is steeped in tradition and

quality mezcal and tequila, it makes sense The focal point of Cantina’s line-up

indeterminate claims to fame.

is the Margarita OK!, a classic shaved

margarita has various conflicting origin

mezcal, lime and cane syrup topped with

Like many beloved concoctions, the

stories and multiple parties who have

attempted to claim its creation. One of the most prevalent is that of bartender Carlos ‘Danny’ Herrera, who is said to have first developed the cocktail in 1938. As the

story goes, aspiring actress Marjorie King regularly visited Herrera’s Tijuana-area

ice margarita that incorporates tequila,

orange zest. “We juice our limes to order every single time,” says Venue Manager

Alex ‘Happy’ Gilmour. “It’s company policy for our venues Tio’s and Cantina. It just

changes the dynamics; the flavour profile is so much better.”

One of the more interesting things about

restaurant Rancho La Gloria. As King was

the margarita is how it has evolved over

than tequila, Herrera combined all the

is ripe for experimentation and is one

supposedly allergic to every spirit other

traditional elements of a tequila shot — tequila, lime, salt — into a cocktail she could drink.

Nearly a century later, there’s no

doubting the margarita’s staying power.

According to research conducted for World Cocktail Day by Funkin Cocktails, the

margarita is the most popular cocktail in the world based on online search data from 115 countries. The margarita topped the search

the past century. It remains a cocktail that that has bred many different iterations.

“If people don’t want the shaved ice or if

they’re looking for something on the rocks, we can serve Tommy’s style, but we don’t carry any curacao, so there’s nothing like

the old-school classic,” says Gilmour. “But we carry plenty of fresh fruit, so if people want to try it, we can make a banging fresh-fruit margarita.”

Recent seasonal fruit additions have

list in 30 countries including Australia.

included red kiwi and longan (the latter

visited a local bar in the past year. The

margarita, but they are tasty”, says

The data is not hard to believe if you’ve

margarita is everywhere — from dive-y

spots serving them up from slushy machines behind the bar and modern Mexican

eateries that have opened up across the

country to upmarket bars using top-quality ingredients and proving the margarita is a cocktail to be taken seriously.

One of the best examples in Sydney is

Cantina OK!, The standing-room-only bar

has a proportionately pocket-sized cocktail

“didn’t work particularly well with a

Gilmour). During peak summer season,

mangoes are optionally incorporated into

margaritas at Cantina OK!, and every year

at Christmas, the venue serves up a version that uses fresh cherries. “Citrus and tequila

go very well with fruit,” says Gilmour. “The conversation about fresh produce and

fresh-fruit margaritas is fun, and there’s no

reason why you can’t throw it in and give it a little bit of a flavour change and texture.

I’m not talking about making 70,000 litres

“If it’s too sweet, you lose the citrus, you lose the vibrancy and you lose the tequila, which are the three things you’re drinking the margarita for.” – Alex Gilmour July 2021 | 19

DRINKS // Margaritas

“Knowing your guest plays an important part. Mezcal can be intense for some, and many people haven’t experienced it, so it helps to balance it out for them.” – Behzad Nvaziri of pre-batch that would go off, but when

a house-made jalapeno-infused tequila and

blood plum. A little bit of colour, a little bit

the sweet and spicy notes,” says Nvaziri.

it’s in season, we’ll even do something like of vibrancy — it doesn’t need to take over the flavour profile, but it’s an addition.” The Star Sydney is another operation

we add a touch of agave to complement

“We use shichimi, which is a combination

of Japanese spices, on top of the drink and serve it on the rocks.

“As Tommy’s margaritas have gotten more

that has leaned into the margarita craze,

popular recently — and spicy margaritas as

their venues, further proving just how

two together. The jalapeño-infused tequila

incorporating several versions of it across adaptable the drink can be.

According to award-winning bartender

Behzad Nvaziri, who works as a bar

manager, the margarita is a “daily practice”

well — we had the thought to combine the has proven really popular; it’s just about adding the right amount of heat to the drink and blending it with the spices.”

and “a favourite bartendersʼ drink as well”.

Because there are so many different ways

flavours: “it’s as simple as it gets, but it’s

sub-trends sit within the parameters. One

Between the sweet, sour, salty and zesty

got everything you need in a cocktail”, he tells Hospitality.

According to Nvaziri, the essential

elements remain the same every time: “You need good-quality tequila, you need fresh

lime and an orange element in the cocktail as well,” he says. “Depending on the type of margarita we’re making, we might use

orange curacao, an orange liqueur, orange bitters or maybe use some fresh slices of orange on top depending on how we’re

serving the drink. It just adds that element of fresh citrus drink.”

Other than that, the margarita is a

to interpret the margarita, a number of

of these, as noted by Nvaziri, is the spicy margarita. Another is on the menu at

Cantina OK!, albeit with a different approach to heat and flavour. “We infuse the tequilamezcal balance with Cascabel chillies,

which are dried, sweet, intense chillies

from Mexico,” explains Gilmour. “They’re

not super, super spicy; it’s more about the

flavour profile. If you make a spicy margarita the spiciest thing in the world and that’s all you’re looking for, you don’t taste anything

on your next drink or the drink after. But you also lose the fresh-is-best approach.”

Another trend the margarita intersects is

bartendersʼ playground. At The Star,

the new thirst for mezcal among Australian

margarita at Cucina Porto and a spicy

typically intense and smoky flavour profile,

versions include a pistachio salt rim

margarita at Sokyo based on the Tommy’s style, which uses a tequila blended with a

cold infusion of fresh jalapeños. “We have 20 | Hospitality

consumers. However, because of mezcal’s

Nvaziri and Gilmour both caution against

going all in without knowing a customersʼ preference and tolerance.

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DRINKS // Margaritas

No matter how you’re making your

margarita, Nvaziri and Gilmour lay down

some hard and fast rules that apply across

the board. For Gilmour, it’s about avoiding any additional sweetness. “Don’t make it

too sweet,” he says. “I think that’s probably the biggest rule. I still maintain ‘fresh is best’, but if it’s too sweet, you lose the

citrus, you lose the vibrancy and you lose the tequila, which are the three things you’re drinking the margarita for.”

For Nvaziri, the inclusion of fresh

produce and high-quality spirits make a huge difference to the outcome of

the drink, with both elements allowing customers to fully appreciate the zingy

balance of flavours that make the cocktail such a stayer. “Always use fresh fruit as opposed to fruit concentrate,” he says. “I wouldn’t add sugar to the cocktail

as it would be sweeter than the classic

margarita, which uses agave nectar,” he

says. “Opt for quality tequila to experience “I think it’s always important to register

how much the guest is into mezcal and

their taste profile,” says Nvaziri. “I prefer

that full flavour and more intensity in my

Tequila, lime, salt and orange are the four

It’s thought

traditional

the margarita

margarita

was first

ingredients

created in 1938

and the recent resurgence only goes to show it

up with mezcal. Knowing your guest

plays an important part. Mezcal can be

intense for some, and many people haven’t

the guest is really into it. I always suggest just sipping it as well, particularly if it’s of mezcal

the world’s

adds a smokier

most-researched

note to a

cocktail online

margarita

good-quality mezcal. Having the margarita

the margarita has stuck it out for this long,

keeps consumers coming back. For Nvaziri and Gilmour, there are some particular themes of

the current climate that have helped accelerate

its rise. “I think it’s one of those classic cocktails that has resurfaced, especially the Tommy’s margarita,” says Nvaziri. “In Sydney and

Australia, it really goes with the climate, which I think plays a part in the trend as well.

“Margaritas really took off in lockdown,”

and a little sipper of mezcal on the side is a

adds Gilmour. “They remind you of

zesty, fruity margarita, you also have the

something. It’s always an interesting

good combination as well. As you drink the mezcal, which is earthier and smokier.” Cantina takes a similar approach by

balancing the margarita with a dash of

mezcal. “There is tequila and mezcal in the mix,” says Gilmour. “You can experiment with it; you can play and see how much

smoke you like in it; you can see if you want 50-50 tequila-mezcal or if you just want a

dash that kind of rises through. Mezcal by

itself is so individual and interesting; it has a

flavour profile that has so much difference in each varietal and each bottle. 22 | Hospitality

to experience that in your drink.”

the margarita instead of making it straight-

and tequila or a full mezcal margarita if

margarita was

comes with a lot of character and you want

Drink trends come and drink trends go, but

experience by layering mezcal on top of

for them whether it’s half-and-half mezcal

The addition

the tequila itself. Good tequila always

margarita. But we always introduce the

experienced it, so it helps to balance it out

In 2021, the

the fresh citrus notes instead of just tasting

that time you sat on a beach and drank process when you’re looking at a drinks trend because it’s been a staple for so

long, and obviously when Mad Men kicked off, the White Russian made a resurgence in a similar way. But the margarita is

just a fun drink. Tequila is associated

with partying quite happily, and when

a cocktail comes out that is making you want to enjoy yourself more and more

because everybody around you is having

a great time, it just becomes an enjoyable experience for everyone.” ■

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www.rdmpizza.com.au

PROFILE // Max Smith

24 | Hospitality

PROFILE // Max Smith

Max Smith

You only get out what you put in, and for Max Smith, the rewards have been well worth the hustle. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To MAX SMITH IS from a city in northern

than the kitchens of Gordon Ramsay. Smith

never heard of. He grew up in Preston,

Kitchen and the Michelin-starred Pétrus.

England most people have probably Lancashire, but swapped snow for

sunshine when he moved to Sydney six years ago. It wasn’t the first switch for

Smith, who traded Euro-centric fine dining for Japanese izakaya-style cuisine. And

now, he’s the tastemaker behind Jimoto

worked at the Savoy Grill, Bread Street

“While it was a huge learning experience, you kind of put everything else on hold,” says Smith. “A lot of people my age were

going out on the weekend, but all of that was put to the side for me.”

Smith continued to forge ahead with

Foods; a condiment and sauce company.

the Ramsay brigade for a number of years

about kicking off his career in a pub

Pollen Street Social. “I worked my way up to

27-year-old Smith talks to Hospitality

kitchen before working for Gordon Ramsay in London, taking and leaving a head chef role and knowing what you want to get

out of an industry that is unlike any other.

before taking on a role at Jason Atherton’s

chef de partie and was on the meat section,” says Smith. “I was working 16-17 hours a day. I learned a lot, but I never really enjoyed it. You have to sacrifice a lot.”

The young chef came to a crossroads:

Max Smith wasn’t sure what his future

after three years, Smith’s heart just wasn’t in

school. That is, until he spent the day

days plating up Euro-leaning dishes, he took

career would entail when he was at

in a pub kitchen: “I fell in love with it,” he says. After those fateful few hours,

Smith began studying cookery, but the

formal environment just wasn’t a match.

“I’m not the best at sitting in a classroom and learning that way,” he says. “Being

fine dining. While he would spend his work an interest in a different style of cooking in his personal life. “I found myself eating at a lot of small Japanese restaurants on my

days off and I felt more drawn towards that cuisine,” he says.

A six-month stint at a pub with a friend

thrown in the deep-end at 16 and being

followed, and it was here where things

way for me to learn.”

I met a guy called Jeff Claudio, who my

surrounded by strong cooks was a better Smith spent his first year as a chef at a

local pub before moving to London to work in some more “high-profile restaurants”.

And it doesn’t come any more high profile

really got interesting. “We did a pop-up and friend had worked with,” says Smith. “We got talking and I mentioned I wanted to

move to Sydney, and he said he’d set me up with a trial.”

July 2021 | 25

PROFILE // Max Smith

Claudio, a fellow chef, arranged a trial for

Smith at his restaurant of choice: Cho Cho San in Potts Point. “I came across Cho Cho

San and it jumped out at me straight away,” says Smith. “Being English, the concept of a

Japanese izakaya is a take on a pub, but the food is a lot better in an izakaya.”

Smith had made up his mind: he was

leaving London, but there was an element of doubt. “I had worked in so many

different environments by the time I was 21 and I spent all this time learning how

to make pureés and braising and now this

guy [Claudio] is sending me to a restaurant where it’s the opposite,” says Smith. “I was like, ‘Am I doing the right thing?’ All these

people I worked with were progressing, but I had the feeling that I had to break away and do something different.”

Any doubts were soon quashed: “Jeff

organised for me to do a day at Cho

Cho San and I loved it,” he says. “The

Owners Jonathan [Barthelmess] and Sam [Christie] were so cool and as soon as

I stepped foot in the restaurant, I knew it was a highly skilled kitchen. You had

chefs making steamed baos and breaking

down fish. There were a lot of ingredients I hadn’t seen before and I was instantly

learning. I was drawn in straight away.” Smith was exposed to a whole new

world (one with sudachi juice) and had the opportunity to learn from Nic Wong, who was the head chef at the time. It wasn’t

long before another stepping stone would

appear when Wong left for Japan to launch The Apollo Ginza. “The head chef role was offered to me and it was a big challenge

to step up,” says Smith. “I was a bit like, ‘Wow, what an opportunity’.”

He decided to jump outside his comfort

zone, and says it was an easy decision

thanks to the constant championing he

received from Christie, Barthelmess and

Wong. “It can be really hard to be a head chef at a young age if you don’t have the

right support,” says Smith. “Working with

those three people every day and being able to bounce ideas off them really helped me.” Smith chose to emulate a similar

management style with his kitchen team,

where it was all about leading by example. “I learned from a young age how to

manage people on the section, and the 26 | Hospitality

main thing is you have to make them want to be there,” says the chef. “You get the

most out of staff if you treat them well and show them respect. If you’re going to tell

people what to do, you have to make sure you can do it yourself and be prepared to

show them how to do it. With young chefs, you have to give them the opportunity to

taste everything and listen to their ideas.” During his tenure as head chef, Smith honed in on classic Japanese dishes,

adding okonomiyaki to the menu as well

as tonkatsu. Everything was tracking along for Smith, who met all the goals he set;

ticking off chef de partie by 21 and moving

He learned Smith worked

fermentation

in Michelin-

and bakery

starred kitchens

techniques from

in London

a young age

Smith added

Jimoto’s teriyaki

from sous chef to head chef not long after. “When it all happened, it was kind of like, ‘What’s next? What’s the next thing that’s

going to take me out of my comfort zone?’ Hospitality is like a sport, you have a

certain timeframe. You don’t really want to be working 16-hour shifts when you’re 50, even though some people do and they’re amazing. You have to think about what you want to get out of it.”

tonkatsu to Cho

sauce

Cho San’s menu

features local

when he took over

shiso

as head chef

July 2021 | 27

PROFILE // Max Smith

“From 16 to 27, I’ve literally not stopped. I felt like I’d gotten to where I wanted to be and I was really happy with what I’d done in my career.” – Max Smith

PROFILE // Max Smith

The answer is by no coincidence related

to the pub. “I had an idea to make sauces and condiments and I wanted to make

something scalable,” says Smith. “The word jimoto means local in Japanese and that draws back to the pub and the izakaya.” Smith launched Jimoto Foods in 2020

during the lockdown with the help of his

partner, and the range now encompasses

sauces such as yuzu and chilli, shiso teriyaki, spicy ume and lime and hot miso. “I wanted

to create products with flavours I’m inspired by; similar to what I did at Cho Cho San — artisanal Japanese meets local Australian

ingredients. I want to spread those flavours

and get them to as many people as possible in a non-restaurant environment.”

Jimoto’s first batch of products were

in the midst of being lab-tested when the

lockdown struck, which gave the chef the time to focus all his energy into getting

the products right. “To be able to have a

month off as a chef is insane,” says Smith. “I’m sure all chefs agree that time is something you never really have.”

The first release saw 200 bottles go up

for sale, and retailers were quick to jump on board. “We have 20 retailers at the

moment and we’re getting new ones every

week,” says Smith. “Thai Kee IGA has been amazing and we’re also stocked in 1888

Certified in Double Bay, The Boatshed in

Perth and some cafés in Brisbane. The plan

and I felt it was an opportunity to not

put myself and my career first for once.

It wasn’t an easy decision to make, but I thought it was the right one. COVID-19

made me realise that I’d like to spend more

time with my girlfriend. From 16 to 27, I’ve literally not stopped. I felt like I’d gotten

to where I wanted to be and I was really happy with what I’d done in my career.”

But it’s not a closed book for Cho Cho

is to keep growing and see where it goes.”

San and Smith, who has since returned to

and a ponzu will be available shortly. But

balance fatherhood with Jimoto. Smith has

Smith has plans to expand the range,

it will have a local edge, like all Jimoto products. “It’s going to be full of native Australian ingredients,” says the chef.

“Every product isn’t something you could find somewhere else. For the teriyaki

sauce, we get heaps of fresh shiso from Sydney and steep it in the sauce like a

tea. Every product has to have a point of difference and use local ingredients.” 2020 was a big year for Smith, who

the group in a new role that allows him to taken on a hybrid gig of sorts, which sees

him in the kitchen and the office working

closely alongside Christie and Barthelmess in a creative capacity across Cho Cho San

and Brisbane’s Yoko Dining. “It’s a support role, so if one of the head chefs needs

a cover, I’ll be there, and I’ll be training

new chefs, too” he says. “It’s also a good

opportunity for me to learn new things and [provide] all-round operational support.”

welcomed a business baby and a son with

Smith has accomplished a lot in a decade;

going to be a father was also the day he

the kitchen ladder and now owning his

his partner. The day he found out he was

decided to step down from his role as head chef of Cho Cho San. “It was a decision I

naturally made for my partner and for our son,” he says. “Being a head chef means

coming home late five to six days a week, 28 | Hospitality

moving countries, working his way up

own business while experiencing the joys of fatherhood. You only get out what you

put in, and in Smith’s case, the rewards a career in hospitality delivers have proven to be more than fruitful. ■

“All these people I worked with were progressing, but I had the feeling that I had to break away and do something different.” – Max Smith

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FEATURE // Desserts

The new

classics What’s old is new again in the sweet space.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Nikki To for Good Ways Deli

32 | Hospitality

Good Ways Deli

FEATURE // Desserts

Lamingtons Was the first lamington you tried from a supermarket? Did it have a dry sponge

and a questionable cream filling? You’re

not alone. Pastry Chef Eddie Stewart set out to change that very experience with his venture Tokyo Lamington, which

recently opened the doors to a new store in Newtown, Sydney. The idea for the

concept was born in Japan when Stewart

was running N2 Brunch Club. “We started selling lamingtons there and they became

quite popular, so we decided to create a sub brand: Tokyo Lamington,” says Stewart. “We were about to open in March last

year, but then COVID-19 hit, so we had to

abandon plans and come back to Australia.” Stewart describes the lamington as the

“quintessential Aussie cake that everyone knows, but not loves”. It was a challenge

Tokyo Lamington

he was willing to take on, with the

foundational elements providing myriad

opportunities to mess with the classic. “It’s the perfect vehicle for us to be creative

with,” he says. “The only boundaries are

that it has to have two bits of sponge cake,

“We’re taking lamingtons to the next level.” – Eddie Stewart

cream in the middle and it has to be dipped

are happy with the price and they think it’s

leftover OG lamingtons overnight, which

have that basic lamington structure.”

middle sets us apart.”

day,” says Stewart. “We blend it up, strain

in coconut or something dried out. It has to

good value. The thick layer of cream in the Tokyo Lamington originally launched as a

The Tokyo Lamington team took the time

pop-up in Haymarket in 2020, with Thai milk

anything but dry. “It’s a cross between

flavours. Yuzu is also a top seller at Newtown,

needed to master the sponge, which is

a butter and a chiffon cake; it’s soft and

buttery yet light and fluffy,” says Stewart. “It took a couple of months to get it perfect.” The team are working with a local

cream supplier and using chocolate

from Callebaut and South Pacific Cacao. Quality ingredients have made all the

difference to the sponge-centric sweet,

and Stewart says some customers have

had a total turnaround on their lamington stance. “A lot of people say they don’t like

lamingtons, but they try ours and they like them,” he says. “We’re serving lamingtons the way they should be: moist and tasty;

not with cheap chocolate, jam and cream.” Tokyo Lamington prices their range at $7, except for yuzu meringue, which is $9.

tea and yuzu proving to be the most popular

with a shot of Single O coffee. We’re taking lamingtons to the next level.”

Over at the newly opened Good Ways Deli

The evolving range also features Neapolitan,

McKenzie and Baker Greer Rochford are

chocolate and coconut) is the heaviest hitter. vegan carrot cake, fairy bread and pandan, with Stewart veering off to take a more

nostalgic route for some future flavours. “A lot of people are bringing back the classics and reinventing the wheel,” he says. “I’m

going through a phase at the moment where

in Sydney’s Redfern, Co-Owner Jordan

sticking with tradition, for the most part. “Doing the classics well gives you more

longevity as a business model, but I just like all those things from the old days,” says McKenzie.

The venue is focusing on a limited

it’s more nostalgia like caramel slice and

selection of baked goods including

which is a cheesecake my family would make

cream and rhubarb jam. Rochford is using a

Iced VoVo. We have blueberry cheesecake,

and has a memory attached to it. We’re also doing a black forest (but it has to be done

traditionally) and vegan peanut butter and jelly, which was voted by our customers. Watermelon cake was behind it.”

While the famed watermelon cake from

Stewart’s Black Star Pastry days isn’t going

to make,” says Stewart. “It’s a handmade

there’s another innovation: a lamington

product; its not machine-made. 98 per cent

it and stretch it on the machine and serve

but the OG (raspberry jam, vanilla cream,

“We’ve had a couple of customers complain about prices, but that’s what it costs us

is a rarity because we sell out nearly every

to be appearing in lamington form just yet, latte. “We get local milk and macerate

lamingtons, which are currently stuffed with recipe from The Australian Women’s Weekly’s Cake and Slices Cookbook, a cornerstone in

local baking vernacular. “I’ve only changed

the recipe slightly because of upscaling, but we are using a rhubarb jam, which is sour in a nice way,” says Rochford. “It balances the chocolate and the sponge so it’s not completely traditional; I remember my

grandma used strawberry jam from a jar.” Rhubarb is currently in rotation, but

July 2021 | 33

FEATURE // Desserts there are plans to switch up the jam according

Mapo Owner Matteo Pochintesta is also an

to seasonality. Lamington fans can expect a

architect who turned to gelato-making. And while

from native produce supplier Indigiearth. “The

it’s exactly what he’s doing. Instead of relying on

Davidson plum run soon with fruit sourced

Davidson plum version was the main idea for the lamington, but they’re hard to get this time of

year, so we’re waiting on when Sharon [Winsor, Founder of Indigiearth and Ngemba Weilwan

he’s not out to reinvent the wheel, in many ways,

frozen products and packing gelato with everything under the sun, Mapo’s products showcase

seasonality and are an example of less is more.

Pochintesta learned the craft of gelato in Milan

woman] can get them,” says McKenzie.

alongside Stefano Guizzetti at Ciacco. “He’s a

The team are mindful of the mantra ‘fresh is

gelato and food in general,” says Pochintesta.

best’, and bake the sponge on a daily basis.

It’s made with Wisemans eggs, resulting in a

sponge with a yellow hue from the yolks. “It’s

nice for customers to come in and see us making lamingtons in the morning in front of them,” says Rochford.

Nailing a classic all boils down to the simpler

food technologist and is across the science of

recipe and there’s no common base. Individual

because they’re not

recipes make the process slower, but you can

guarantee a more consistent result and texture for all the flavours.”

each treat is in optimum form. “It’s a lot to do

Pochintesta takes a tailored approach to each

fresh coming out of the oven,” says McKenzie. “A product might be great, but it’s great for a

limited amount of time, so we’re making sure the quantities are right for how fast we’re moving.”

Gelato Gelato, as we now know it, is said to have been created by Florentine Bernardo Buontalenti in the 16th century. The architect, engineer

and sculptor was charged with organising a banquet for the Medici family and made a

Tokyo

Italy. However, there was a time where tradition

veered off course in the gelato mecca. “In the 90s, there was a uniform base and then the flavour

was added,” he says. “But in Italy, there’s been a change towards making gelato like before with

Lamington’s Mapo is

yuzu meringue

running a

is one of the

truffle special

most popular

during winter

options

less flavours and focusing on the ingredients again. If you use a lot of ingredients, they’re

probably not the best quality. When you have

good-quality ingredients, you want to use them as much as possible and highlight the flavours.”

Some local gelato concepts are still making

flavoured with bergamot and orange, and crema

but the wheels have started to turn. “I see the

34 | Hospitality

– Matteo Pochintesta

flavourway, which he says is now commonplace in

gelato en masse: “it’s a bit like how it was in

Buontalenti is still in circulation today.

made with pulp.”

with another outlet launching in Bondi this year.

dessert; a sorbet with ice, salt, lemon, sugar,

egg, honey, milk and wine. The cold cream was

and all the sorbets are different

usual way; all the ice creams have a different

Mapo opened in Sydney’s Newtown in 2019,

with execution and making sure everything is

texture of the fruit

“His way of making gelato is different from the

elements such as keeping an eye on how many

products are walking out the door and ensuring

“You really feel the

Italy before the change,” says Pochintesta,

change in Melbourne with stores like Piccolina

Wattle seed

Mapo use

provides

a minimum

a roasted

of 60 per cent

element to

fruit in all

Good Ways’

products

lamingtons

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FEATURE // Desserts

“Often, you use coffee to bring out the flavour of chocolate and wattle seed has a similar flavour profile.” – Jordan McKenzie

and Pidapipo which make less flavours with less ingredients,” he says. “It’s all about simple ingredients and making

them shine. I see the world of food going towards that.”

Seasonality is king in restaurants, but the concept is often not extended to sweeter counterparts. Mapo only uses produce

when it’s in its prime to make gelato and

Good Ways' brownie

the results speak for themselves. “You

new flavours and it’s so rewarding to see

wattle seed from Indigiearth, which lends

a nectarine sorbet in summertime

“We’re doing mascarpone with mandarin

to bring out the flavour of chocolate and

really notice the difference between

compared to [a product made with] frozen nectarine,” says Pochintesta. “You wait for the fruit to be perfectly ripe and you use

less sugar because it’s in the fruit. It’s also

cheaper and the products are better; I like

customers try the gelato,” says Pochintesta. jam and black truffle and wildflower

honey, which is the main winter special.

It’s a cold infusion in milk of black truffle and honey.”

Pochintesta always has some new

slowing down the process.”

projects on the go, and they’re not all

there’s a broader spectrum when it comes

in savoury applications in a restaurant

Using seasonal produce also means

to flavour profile, which is a reflection of

the reality of using real ingredients versus purées. “The fig sorbet may be sweeter or

more tart one week to the next, but it keeps it more interesting,” says Pochintesta. Mapo makes the majority of their

gelatos with a minimum of 60 per

cent fruit, resulting in a more textural mouthfeel. “When people eat the fig gelato, it’s like eating a fig in gelato

sweet. In Italy, gelato is commonly used setting. For example, bone marrow gelato served with bread as well as ragout,

a toasty element. “Often, you use coffee

wattle seed has a similar flavour profile, so we’re tweaking the recipe to get the best out of the ingredients,” says McKenzie.

The wattle seeds are roasted before they

are blitzed into a fine powder to emulate the consistency of flour. “It’s more for

flavour profile because it’s quite an earthy

flavour so it balances out the richness and sweetness,” says McKenzie.

Rochford melts butter with Callebaut

pecorino and cacio e pepe gelatos. “You

chocolate before slowly folding into brown

Pochintesta. “I tried a chickpea flavour,

for around 15 minutes “to get them super

can do it with almost anything,” says

which I’m still working on, and we did some beer sorbets with Motorcycle Oil from Young Henrys. It’s interesting to combine gelato with savoury items.”

sugar and eggs that have been whisked airy”. The brownies also happen to be

gluten-free thanks to the addition of rice

flour. “It’s so fine and it can tend to work better than regular flour,” says Rochford. “We don’t use too much flour otherwise

form,” says Pochintesta. “You really feel

Brownies

are different because they’re not [made

loved among the public and are a key

minutes; a strategic play by Rochford who

team are working with a recipe McKenzie

to overcook them as they set after you bake

the texture of the fruit and all the sorbets

Brownies are uniformly treasured and

with] pulp. A nectarine has a different

part of Good Ways’ sweet selection. The

texture to a kiwi or a fig because of the seeds and the impurities.”

Moving with the market also means

more scope to launch different flavours rather than supplying a uniform range year-round. “People are intrigued by 36 | Hospitality

initially developed during his time at

Smoking Gun Bagels. “We cooked it in the wood-fired oven and it came out really

well,” he says. While Good Ways doesn’t

have a wood-fired oven, the brownies have another core difference — the addition of

they can dry out.”

The brownies are baked for around 35

prefers a gooey end product. “People tend them, so I always try to do what I think is undercooking them so they stay nice and

moist in the middle,” she says. “We want to do these as well as we can and refine them and once we have that down we want to add more sweets into the mix.” ■

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FEATURE // Seaweed

38 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Seaweed

New wave The Australian seaweed industry is in the embryonic stage, but its future continues to swell thanks to an ideal local climate and of course, chef demand. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Honey Atkinson for Sea Health Products A STUDY IN 2018 asked one question:

speaks to Jo Lane from Sea Health Products

answer is multipronged. You see, local

hand and Chef Joel Bennetts from Fish

is Australian seaweed worth eating? The seaweed products are hard to come by

as the industry is micro: there are just a

handful of producers operating across the

about her work foraging brown algae by

Shop about how he’s using various forms of seaweed at the Bondi restaurant.

country. Most consumers would never have

The producer

the majority imported from China, Korea

Betty Long, who handed over her ‘kelp

tried an Australian seaweed product, with

Jo Lane took over Sea Health Products from

or Japan.

lady’ baton in 2015. Lane has a background

The Nutritional and sensorial properties

of wild-harvested Australian versus

commercially available seaweeds report

compared nine Australian wild-harvested

seaweeds including Laurencia filiformis (red algae), Codium galeatum (green algae) and

in marine science and sustainable coastal environments, and secured the Churchill

Fellowship in 2019, which saw her travel across Europe, Asia, North America and Canada to visit kelp farms.

Seaweed farming is a new industry in

Cystophora torulosa (brown algae) to four

Australia and is very much in its infancy.

Pyropia tenera (nori), Sargassum fusiforme

says Lane. “Seaweed isn’t a traditional

of the most prolific international species: (hijiki), Saccharina angustata (brown

algae) and Undaria pinnatifida (wakame). The study revealed some interesting

finds: four Australian species had higher

total lipids than all commercial products in the study and some of the highest values

reported in seaweed literature. As part of

the study, seaweeds were served as a soup

or salad. There was no consumer difference

There is demand because we do import a lot of products, but we haven’t done the

native to

species

Australia

Used konbu

Fish Shop

research on the lifecycle of our unique

sell up to 30

and turned

nori cabbage

aquaculture industries that have been going

into a powder

dishes a day

species. Korea, Japan and China have big

for more than 70 years, so they have a real

understanding of the lifecycle of seaweeds.”

species and it’s a brown kelp that has lots of

indicates one thing — potential. Hospitality

introduced

can be dried

it came to salad preparation.

native seaweed species in Australia, which

seaweeds

part of our culture or our Western diet.

Lane hand harvests kelp on the South

It’s estimated there are more than 3,000

than 3,000

is an

“I would say we’re in the early stages,”

when the seaweed was presented in soup

form, however hijiki reigned supreme when

There are more Wakame

Coast of New South Wales. “It’s a hardy

nutritional benefits,” she says. “However, it is difficult to grow as we are finding.” Lane collects fresh kelp as it comes

July 2021 | 39

FEATURE // Seaweed

in from the tide. The kelp has usually been

The chef

removed from the source. “The way we do it is

10 years ago, but his memory goes back a little

dislodged from storms as it cannot be cut or

Joel Bennetts first started cooking with seaweed

very sustainable, and that’s my big motivation,”

further. “When I was young, I always noticed

says Lane. Once the kelp is collected, it’s washed in rain or mountain water and left to dry in the sun. After it has dried, the seaweed is typically milled into a granulated consistency or a

powder. “There is more demand, and it’s hard to keep up with that in the way we currently

operate,” says Lane. “Harvesting can only get us to a certain capacity.”

There are around 3,000 native seaweeds in

Australia, with a significant number only found in our waters. Lane says there is a whole world

how the weeds would dry and rehydrate as the tides changed,” he says. “I remembered this

when I became a chef and realised the potential of it in the food I created.” Bennetts worked in Japan and it was here where he incorporated

seaweed into his culinary repertoire. “In Japan, I would use seaweed for a vegan vegetable

dish I created, toasting fresh seaweed over the

charcoal to create flavours that would permeate the vegetable.”

It’s indicative of one dish diners — and

of potential when it comes to farming — it just

Bennetts — “froth” at Fish Shop in Bondi. While

and green seaweeds and they all have different

the majority of menu items (“It’s just how I do

comes down to research. “There are red, brown nutritional qualities and tastes,” she says. “We don’t fully understand how to grow them and that’s what I’m really keen to explore. We are

working with universities on the breeding side of things and getting to the stage of farming, which will give us consistent supply. From a

small number of plants, we can release millions of spores and seed hectares.”

While brown kelp is Lane’s bread and butter, she’s also managed to get

her hands on limited amounts of bull kelp, which is comparable

to konbu. “Konbu is a particular species, but we have a number of seaweeds in Australia that

are more like a strap; you get that in Tasmania,” she says.

“Chefs’ eyes light up when you have it; it’s that umami.”

Lane has worked with a number

of chefs who use her products in different ways from pickling to

seasoning. “Kelp is such a versatile product; what led me to study

farming was the fact that there are so many things you can do

with seaweed that I can’t physically

collect enough of it for what I want to

do,” she says. “When I talked to farmers in Asia, it made me want to achieve this goal in Australia for the environmental

benefits it can bring. Farming is a way of

creating habitat, it absorbs carbon and it creates a

resource. Potentially we can grow an industry here, which is very exciting.”

40 | Hospitality

the chef goes hard and fast when it comes to stuff,” he says), this particular dish isn’t going anywhere. “We sell 20−30 of the cabbage with nori dressing per day; every person is blown away

www.orderup.com

FEATURE // Seaweed

“Wakame might not stand out as much as a salsa verde or a tartare sauce on the menu, but we’re in a position to educate people with the knowledge of our staff.” – Joel Bennetts that it’s vegan and made out of seaweed,” he says. “It has ginger and shallot inspired by Cantonese

cuisine and a rice wine vinegar, sesame and mirin dressing with the nori tying it all together.” Seaweed has always been an accessible

ingredient for the chef, who harvests along the

eastern and northern beaches of Sydney when he gets the chance. Otherwise, he sources products from Two Providores, which supplies local and

imported options. Bennetts uses everything from Tasmanian wakame to konbu, laver and nori as “there’s always stuff going on with seaweed” at

coral trout has a delicate flavour, so I didn’t

store, it’s versatile and it’s forgiving,” he says.

butter and put eschallots, blended wakame, nori

the restaurant. “Seaweed is a staple in my dry

Local products, in particular, come at a higher

price than those that are imported; a given due

to the micro industry here. But it’s far from a deal

breaker. “It’s not cheap, but it has maximum yield,”

want to overpower it,” says Bennetts. “I softened and yuzu kosho paste with black pepper and sea salt. I set it in the fridge and it melted from the heat of the fish.”

Most diners have likely consumed seaweed in

says Bennetts. “You can use a teaspoon of wakame

sushi form (hello, sushi train), but terms such as

a sponge — it’s dry and porous but as soon as you

Shop, dishes don’t just reference seaweed, but

and it bombards you with umami and sea. It’s like

bring it to moisture, you’re getting double or triple the yield. In a restaurant sense, the amount you need versus the flavour you get is quite large.” As far as culinary applications go, seaweed is incredibly versatile. Bennetts would use

powdered nori over salad, a sheet for the base

of a sauce and a purée “because it has a heavier flavour” and wakame and smaller seaweeds

for salt or in a soup. The chef recently ran a

seaweed spin on a café de Paris butter. “The

basis of the dish was Japanese flavours and the 42 | Hospitality

laver and wakame are not familiar to all. At Fish the exact variety. “I think it’s important to call it

by the correct term,” says Bennetts. “Nori is well

known compared to wakame or laver (two years ago, I was asking what laver was), but it’s a

quick education. Wakame might not stand out as much as a salsa verde or a tartare sauce on the

menu, but we’re in a position to educate people with the knowledge of our staff and bring them in to try new things. If we’re trying to make

seaweed a more common ingredient, why would you just call it seaweed? It’s an amazing product we’re lucky enough to have ease of access to.” ■

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FEATURE // Plant-based dining Alibi

Let them eat plants From an environmental, financial and trend-led perspective, hospitality businesses are benefitting from the plant-based cooking movement. WORDS Kirsty Sier PHOTOGRAPHY Jiwon Kae for Alibi

THE CULTURAL ATTACHÉ of plant-based

eating has certainly come a long way in recent years. Formerly associated with

had a recent high-profile partnership with Beyond Meat, joins the fray.

According to research conducted by

vegetarianism and veganism — which in

Roy Morgan in 2020, more than two and

as lifestyle choices — plant-based has now

12.1 per cent of the population) say they

turn have sloughed off much of their stigma thoroughly entered mainstream discourse,

appealing not only to non-meat-eaters, but to those who prioritise health, want to eat less meat or are simply coming around to

the exciting potential of new products. And you know it’s big when Pizza Hut, which 44 | Hospitality

a half million Australians (approximately are vegan or vegetarian, with many more

opting to reduce their meat intake. While

broke down the demographics of the

trend. At the time, roughly 5.5 million

Australian diners considered veganism,

vegetarianism, gluten-free, dairy-free and paleo diets important. Of these, 38 per

cent were millennials, 34 per cent were gen X and 19 per cent were boomers. The research showed that a large

the millennial generation has largely

segment of respondents who held the

single generation.

suggesting the plant-based trend has the

driven the dietary shift, it goes beyond any The 2020 Future Grazing Report further

attitude were high income earners,

potential to be a particularly lucrative one.

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FEATURE // Plant-based dining Lona Misa

Households with a combined income of

Closer to home, the movement has both

consume plant-based foods (61 per cent),

hospitality industry’s most innovative and

more than $100,000 were most likely to

followed by those on $50,000 to $99,000

(29 per cent) and those under $50,000 (22 per cent).

Coinciding with the growing concern

around the ethical treatment of animals (78 per cent of Australians said that whether a

restaurant or café supported animal welfare

would influence their purchasing decisions), one in four Australians were eating more plant-based meals.

All of this intersects with a global trend. For example, the number of diners in Italy who identified as vegan nearly doubled between 2016 and 2018. The number quadrupled in the UK between 2014 and 2018. The global plant protein market was valued at $15.65 billion in 2017, and is now predicted to increase to $24.3 billion by 2025.

46 | Hospitality

attracted and spawned some of the Australian modern superstars such as Shannon Martinez along with the Ovolo Group.

Ovolo Hotels has forged a dual reputation

for itself as a hub of exceptional food and beverage offerings. In an announcement made in 2020 — timed to coincide with

World Vegetarian Day — the group revealed plans for all of their hospitality offerings in Australia and Hong Kong to go meat-free for the entirety of 2021.

The move has resulted in some high-

profile openings such as the launch of

Shannon Martinez’s Lona Misa, which

opened in Ovolo South Yarra in April this

year. But even before Year of the Veg, some of Ovolo’s offerings leant plant-based.

An example being Alibi Woolloomooloo,

which pushed preconceptions of just how neatly plant-based eating could intersect with fine dining in 2018.

Photography by Nikki To

“I don’t think there are any obstacles preventing plantbased from dominating the food market going forward.” – Matthew Kenney

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FEATURE // Plant-based dining Alibi

Alibi was launched in partnership with Chef

Matthew Kenney, a plant-based culinary figure who has founded dozens of vegan restaurants and has 12 cookbooks to his name. Kenney

helped shape the menu and tone at Alibi, and still holds the role of executive producer. “I’m More than 2.5 million Australians now say they are vegan or vegetarian

a classically French-trained chef and I had

leading the way

wrap it up in one package’.

“I did a lot of research and I did a lot of

experimentation with my own diet and I realised plant-based was essentially the most exciting

avenue for the culinary future. I adopted it in

so years ago when the market wasn’t ready; we were too early. It’s like any sort of pioneering

segment, but I stuck with it and I built a great team and we positioned ourselves so that we were ready when the market finally evolved.

relationships like the one we have with Ovolo.” The questions Kenney faced on a personal

level when he first adopted a plant-based style their restaurants plant-based for 2021

of eating have since been adapted into his

complicated, it’s not accessible’, and that’s been resolved as well. The reality is, the questions

answer themselves and it’s just been a process

of going through them. At the same time, I don’t think there are any obstacles preventing plantbased from dominating the food market going forward,” says Kenney.

“Plant-based food prepared with whole

that part of it takes care of itself in terms of

has been an ongoing topic for many years, and the reality is, lentils or quinoa have the same

amount of protein that our bodies can assimilate as any type of animal product. But we don’t try to meet that challenge head-on; instead we try

to address it by providing food that’s flavourful, attractive, satisfying and lets guests judge for

themselves how they feel. With Alibi, we really

wanted to show the high-level potential of plantbased and how it can really be an experience without animal products.”

The menu at Alibi changes regularly, but some

professional cheffing career and have spawned

of the core dishes include an heirloom tomato

spoke to Kenney, for example, he was launching

The latter recipe has a dough made from Thai

many plant-based menus. The day Hospitality a vegan drive-thru in Los Angeles wedged

48 | Hospitality

evolved into, ‘Well, it’s too expensive, it’s too

people feeling full or satisfied. The protein issue

Now, we’re in the best position to develop

Ovolo has turned all of

Am I going to be getting enough protein?’.

but in those days, it wasn’t at all. I think there same thing, but it was really challenging 14 or

$24.3 billion by 2025

“In the beginning, the thoughts were, ‘Am

ingredients is quite dense and satisfying. So

were quite a few people like me who saw the

plant protein market is

movement’s fine-dining potential.

of course that was many years before it became mainstream. Now, it’s trendy and fashionable,

predicted to increase to

taken at Alibi comes closer to exploring the

The answers became obvious, and then it

both my personal life and my business life, and

The value of the global

with plant-based cooking, but the approach

hospitality,” he says. “It took 12, 14 years of

and sustainability, but I loved food, wine and

accomplish everything I’m passionate about and

categorised, with millenials

is further reinforcement of what can be done

I going to be satisfied? Am I going to be full?

had a lightbulb moment where I thought, ‘I can

can be generationally

Taco Bell. The diverse scope of Kenney’s projects

dual passions of health and wellness/longevity

being in the hospitality industry before I really

The plant-based trend

between McDonald’s, Chipotle, Starbucks and

lasagna and the signature kimchi dumplings.

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FEATURE // Plant-based dining

point of difference in the market. We were on the cusp of plant-based and Mexican being the cool thing in Brisbane.”

Similar to Alibi, the ambition for El

Planta was to prove what plants were

capable of without serving up a philosophy or an ultimatum. As with many recent

success stories, it’s good food first, plantbased second.

“It was a big market that wasn’t being

catered to: people who wanted to eat less meat,” says Gibson.

“Vegan restaurants typically have a

certain vibe about them and they just

feel different. We felt like a non-vegan probably wouldn’t go there to eat and

thought there was a better way to show

people that plants are delicious rather than ramming it down their throats.”

In order to create a space that was

welcoming and satisfying for carnivores

and vegans, Gibson and Jory made some

decisions early on to elevate their offering. For instance, all tortillas at El Planta are

handmade from scratch; dried chillis are

imported directly from Mexico; sauces and salsas are made according to traditional

techniques (an almond mole takes roughly El Planta

such as cashews and cabbage. “We tried to bring dishes we know work to the

four hours to make) and the menu

frequently changes according to what local farmers have on hand.

“From the very start, we had a no

Australian market and at the same time

fake meat policy,” says Gibson. “Same

“It’s really a balance between bringing

fish comes from hearts of palms and we

adopt local ingredients,” says Kenney.

our signature dishes — or providing our support and know-how — and using

local ingredients so chefs can reinterpret what we do. It’s different in every part of the world, but [Australia has] great

ingredients, so it makes it a lot easier.” For partners in life and business Rick Gibson

with everything being house-made. The

make fillets in-house. We use jackfruit for our el pastor, but we don’t go down the

traditional pulled jackfruit route where it ends up with no texture. The el pastor is

marinated, roasted, threaded on skewers and finished on the flame. The flame

makes vegetables taste infinitely better.”

“It’s nostalgia, too,” adds Jory. “I think

and Adrienne Jory, the reasons for opening

when you have something that tastes like

Planta were personal. “Our first date was

you back to the idea of a barbecue with

their Brisbane plant-based restaurant El

at a taqueria in Brisbane and we’ve always loved Mexican food; it’s the go-to thing

whenever we host friends and family at

home,” says Jory. “We wanted to eat tacos

every night, so we were like, ‘Why don’t we just do it so we can [create] a space that

just wasn’t really there?’ From a business

point of view, being Brisbane’s first and only plant-based Mexican restaurant gave us a 50 | Hospitality

it’s hit some sort of fire or grill, it takes

meat. It helps us deliver flavour into our meals but also adds an extra level of

difference. Sometimes plant-based and

vegan food goes so far down the health

route that it takes away some primal ways of cooking. If we’re doing veg and we’re not using any fake meats, how do we

take it and make it taste different to what people would expect? When I’m creating

www.wellandgoodfoodservice.com.au

FEATURE // Plant-based dining Lona Misa

recipes, I always look at the meat version and then think of how I can do it with an

eggplant, for example. The vegetable gets treated like a typical protein whether it’s

marinated or finished on the grill. If you’re a meat eater, that’s what you look for: that richness, smoke and texture.”

Another misconception Alibi and El

“Being Brisbane’s first and only plantbased Mexican restaurant gave us a point of difference in the market.” – Adrienne Jory

Planta are battling against is the idea

and specialty ingredients. In the US, you

get produce that is cheaper and fresher.

operational perspective. While Kenney

of money on all these ingredients and it’s

changed three times that week, which isn’t

plant-based cooking costs more from an admits plant-based menu items can be more expensive for customers, it’s a

reflection of an added intensity of labour rather than a steep cost of goods. In fact, both parties are vehement that opting

out of meat is a much cheaper route for

a hospitality business. “The cost of goods

in a typical restaurant changes, but 25 to

32 per cent is not a bad cost of goods, for

example,” says Kenney. “With plant-based, we’re buying the most local and organic

can go to Wholefoods and spend a tonne impractical. When you do plant-based

long-term, it’s actually far less expensive.

The one thing that doesn’t get discussed as much is the labour. We don’t buy cheese, we make cheese; we don’t buy almond

milk, we make almond milk. The labour

they think they need all these superfoods 52 | Hospitality

I think it makes us a lot more profitable than we would’ve been otherwise.

“We’ve had a farmer call us and say,

something with it?’. So we threw some

inexpensive it can be to eat plant-based.” For Gibson and Jory, purchasing farm-

perspective. By dealing directly with

at home decide to go plant-based and

freak a lot of people out,” says Gibson. “But

matter of helping people understand how

the food itself is a lot lower. I think it’s a

much less expensive.

started. I think it’s because a lot of people

restaurant and is something that might

‘Hey, someone has just pulled out of a

fresh local ingredients actually works

“I don’t know where the misconception

something that might work in a normal

model is higher, but the actual cost of

ingredients we can and our cost of goods

is more like 20 or 22 per cent. It’s actually

“We’ve had times where the menu has

in their favour from a cost-of-goods

farmers and maintaining a flexible business model wherein the menu can be changed

with as much frequency as they desire, they are able to “cut out the middle man” and

whole heap of cauliflower, can you do

ideas around and came up with a dish that was one of our most profitable ever because we managed to take

cauliflower nobody wanted and turn it

into something. Flexibility allowed us to

take an opportunity and fix a problem for the farmer. Changing the menu so often

also gives people a reason to come back. If you run on a long menu cycle, diners get

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FEATURE // Plant-based dining Lona Misa

tired of the same menu. Whereas, we have

was their 92nd birthday, but then we have

three weeks and it’s a completely different

drink. There’s no rhyme or reason to our

customers coming in fortnightly or every menu to the one they last ate.”

It’s hard to pinpoint any single reason why the plant-based movement has taken off,

or any single reason for the overwhelming

people who are not even old enough to

customer and that’s something that’s really surprised us. We consciously set out to

create a non-vegan feel, and so it’s a space where everyone feels welcome.”

Kenney says many elements are lining

success of restaurants such as Lona Misa,

up for the category. “The financial

of circumstances, the trend intersects

eating now,” he says. “The environmental

Alibi and El Planta. In a perfect storm

neatly with a growing concern for the

environment and animal welfare, the rising popularity of health-oriented lifestyles and an increasingly ubiquitous open-

mindedness among the dining public.

“Our customers were vegan in the early

days,” says Gibson. “I guess plant-based put a flag in the market first. It allowed us to get a bit of traction and prove the

concept, but now I reckon it’s probably six or seven out of 10 aren’t vegan,” Gibson

tells Hospitality. “We’ve been really amazed by how broad our customer base is. We

had someone come the other week and it 54 | Hospitality

markets are focused on plant-based

issues are obvious and the impact of

plant-based is clearly a positive for the

environment. But at the end of the day

— and this is what we’ve stayed focused

on — is when we eat, when we make our food choices, we are pleasure-seekers. We want food that tastes good and

makes us feel good. I’m focused on how

we make our food the most fashionable, the sexiest, the coolest-tasting and the

most pleasurable. That’s why we devote the majority of our company’s time and

energy into utilising plants to make them a food people crave.”

■

“With plantbased we’re buying the most local and organic ingredients we can and our cost of goods is more like 20 or 22 per cent.” – Matthew Kenney

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Kings Cross Hotel

FEATURE // Late-night trading WITH THE IMPLEMENTATION of 2014’s controversial lockout

laws came a very different Sydney. The once-buzzing city became a

shell of its former self when the O’Farrell government imposed strict 1:30am lockouts and 3:00am ‘last drinks’ calls across all venues in the CBD entertainment districts. For a city that once boasted

Up all night

Australia’s largest night-time economy and had an inimitable vibrancy, the knock-on effects of the laws were devastating.

The primary reason for the laws — which were fully lifted in

March this year — was to curb alcohol-fuelled violence and clean up the reputation of the city’s then infamous late-night precinct

Kings Cross. It was a well-intentioned move, but in doing so, many of Sydney’s entertainment districts were caught in the crossfire. “There were underlying reasons for introducing the laws,”

says Michael Rodrigues, the newly appointed 24 Hour Economy

Commissioner. “Kings Cross — at the time — was coping with too many patrons in too small of a place, who then struggled to get home after a night out.

“[The laws] did perform a role in reducing violence, but

there became a growing recognition that they were significantly

Sydney’s lockout laws are now a thing of the past and the city is on the move towards a strong 24-hour economy.

impacting Sydney’s reputation, domestically and globally, as

WORDS Monique Ceccato

Sydney’s night-life was in decline.”

a night-time destination. While the laws only directly affected a certain part of the city, they helped to fuel a perception that

Over the six years the lockout reforms were in place, the Bureau of Crime Statistics and Research (BCSR) recorded a 53 per cent

decrease in the incidences of non-domestic assaults in Kings Cross 56 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Late-night trading

and a 4 per cent decrease across the whole CBD entertainment

precinct. While it’s evident the laws served their intended purpose, the repercussions of the measures decimated the CBD’s night-time

economy. Where BCSR saw a positive decline in violent incidences over those six years, Liquor and Gaming NSW recorded some 418 licensed premises closures in the same time period.

“Pre-lockout to me was quite different,” says Solotel CEO Elliot

Solomon. “The precincts were different and I think lockouts have a lot to do with that. [They caused] the death of Kings Cross and the real decay of Oxford Street. Among the worst-hit businesses were live music venues and nightclubs, with close to 170 closing their doors during the time the laws were in place. Pre-lockout, we’d

have thousands of people through the door [at Kings Cross Hotel]. We had FBi Radio’s live music venue on level two and we’d have probably 50 entertainment bookings a week in the venue.”

With 19 pubs, clubs, and bars under their directorship across

Sydney, Solotel saw their operations significantly impacted by

the law-mandated changes in late-night trade. “When lockouts hit, FBi left because they couldn’t make it work financially;

they basically made their money on a Saturday night between

midnight and 3:00am,” says Solomon. “It caused our business to

drop by about 70 per cent and it happened quite quickly, too. We had to cut costs and we cut most of our entertainment as well. We just had to adapt.”

It’s been a tough few years for hospitality in New South Wales,

with more than just the ramifications of lockout laws to contend

with. The ravaging bushfires and the effects of numerous COVID lockdowns both hampered efforts to rejuvenate entertainment

districts, too. In the face of this, businesses have been forced to think on their feet and adapt at lightning-fast speed or face the harsh reality of closure. But Rodrigues and Solomon are both

confident that, on the other side of lockouts and the pandemic, the city’s night-time economy is on an upward trajectory from barely surviving to thriving.

“I think there’s a renewed optimism and passion for Sydney’s

night-life, which has been partly catalysed by the lifting of

lockouts and partly by our recovery from the pandemic,” says

“What we are seeing now is a lot of innovative and pioneering operators supported by a government that understands and appreciates the economic, social and cultural importance of the 24-hour economy.” – Michael Rodrigues

Rodrigues. “What we are seeing now is a lot of innovative and

Removing the lockout laws and building a strategy to aid the

and appreciates the economic, social and cultural importance of

bigger picture. Rodrigues also credits the Liquor Act Amendment

pioneering operators supported by a government that understands the 24-hour economy. There will be challenges ahead, but I’m incredibly optimistic about the future.”

The NSW Government released its 24-hour economy strategy

in September 2020, laying the foundations for a bigger and better night-time economy in Sydney. It’s a unified vision to revitalise

the greater Sydney area and transform it into a vibrant, diverse,

inclusive, and safe 24-hour economic centre. The strategy focuses on five main pillars: integrated planning and place-making, a diversification in available night-time activities, industry and

revitalisation of the entertainment precincts is just one part of the — which makes it simpler for venues to operate by removing constraining regulations — and the raft of NSW Government

initiatives brought in to support the sector through COVID-19 (including support packages for live music venues) as major influences in bringing these areas back to life. Even smaller

changes, like amendments to alfresco regulations allowing venues to expand their footprints to help offset capacity restrictions during the pandemic, have made a visible impact on trade.

Still, the revitalisation of the night-time economy in the city

cultural development, mobility and connectivity through safe and

poses more challenges. One of the biggest hurdles hospitality is

into Sydney at night.

of the lockout and extended lockdowns during the pandemic.

reliable transport and changing Sydney’s narrative to draw people

58 | Hospitality

working to overcome is changed consumer behaviour courtesy

Pre-lockout, convenience and entertainment apps such as Uber

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FEATURE // Late-night trading

Avi's Kantini in The Bank Hotel, Newtown

Eats, Netflix and Deliveroo were nowhere

near as prolific as they are now. The pandemic saw a massive uptick in delivery app use, and

and making sure [weʼre] really on the pulse of wholesome culture”.

As a result of the lockout, Solomon watched

they’ve now become so popular that at-home

the hospitality scene in Sydney’s CBD shift from

to the going-out economy.

food- and small bar-based. It wasn’t just the lack

entertainment is considered major competition “I think for us, the darkest days are over and

we can reinvest in the night-time economy because we feel that support from the

late-night dance parties to being much more

of late-night activity that caused the shift, but also changing consumer priorities and habits.

In the past few years, Solomon has noted that

government,” said Solomon. “But, how do we

there has been a big push for properly designed,

have fun and see value in paying for a door fee,

definitely more sophisticated and people have

now create a reason for people to go out and

going to see live music, buying a few cocktails or having a meal out?”

Rodrigues believes the key to diversifying the

city’s night-time offering and getting people

excited about heading out again is in creating

novel and unique experiences at a range of price points. Prior to the lockout, there was a bias

towards entertainment that catered primarily to a younger demographic. Now, he wants venues

to look beyond that and innovate to bring “more

more immersive experiences. “Post-lockout is

higher expectations,” he says. “There’s always going to be a time and place for a basement

nightclub or a rave cave, but I think people are looking for more than that now. Our base was always in local community venues and being really tailored to those communities. We just

moved forward with what our communities were looking for, so there’s been a push to more food, craft beer, natural wine and cocktails.”

prams and wheelchairs into our CBDs, and a

Solotel’s ongoing success is only partially

For Solomon, who has successfully overseen the

found some wins have come from being

diverse range of experiences across the city”.

adaptation of the offerings at Solotel venues in

Sydney, that means “being creative, being brave 60 | Hospitality

credited to the adaptation. Solomon has

open to collaborative processes. “It’s not just with the events with musicians or whoever

“The darkest days are over and we can reinvest in the night-time economy because we feel that support from the government.” – Elliott Solomon

FEATURE // Late-night trading

“There’s always going to be a time and place for a basement nightclub or a rave cave, but I think people are looking for more than that now.” – Elliot Solomon many venue operations returning to something near normality,

Rodrigues has his sights set on levelling Sydney up to the global

stage. “Sydney needs to think about how it competes globally as an economic centre with cities like Singapore, Hong Kong and

Tokyo,” he says. “As work patterns become more flexible, the city should be adapting, and it should be normal to take your drycleaning in at 9:00pm or watch a film at midnight.”

As a firm believer in late-night trading being an integral part of

you’re working with, it’s with all the other stakeholders that are

impacted,” says Solomon, who’s spent considerable time building

city life, Rodrigues wants to see Sydney residents embracing a new and solid social infrastructure just like other major global cities. “Global cities provide their many citizens and visitors with

a good relationship with the police and the local councils around

choice,” he says. “A city that lies dormant for 12 hours a day limits

with other venues, too. A really, really good example of this is the

city is capable of. So, whether itʼs citizen amenities and quality of

Solotelʼs venues. “If you’re in a precinct, you need to be talking Newtown liquor accord.”

Liquor accords are a Liquor and Gaming NSW initiative that bring

licensed venues within an entertainment precinct together to deliver benefits for the industry and community. Collaboratively, licensees,

local councils, patrons, residents and police work towards reducing anti-social behaviour, violence and crime in venues, creating a safe environment for patrons to enjoy a night out.

“We’ve got quite a few venues in the Newtown liquor accord, and

I think that collaboration from all the stakeholders is important in being successful in late-night entertainment,” says Solomon. “It’s how we have kept our venues in the precinct safe together. And

that was just through constant communication including simple

things like having a WhatsApp group, meeting up regularly and just knowing what was going on in all the other venues.”

Though lockout and lockdowns caused Sydney’s nightlife to take

a hit, they also created the opportunity for everyone to step back, reassess and renew the city’s approach to a 24-hour economy.

It forced the government, councils and venues to have a serious

conversation about safety at night and encourage a diverse range of activities that don’t necessarily involve alcohol.

Now, with the city’s entertainment precincts on the rebound and

62 | Hospitality

choice. But, more importantly, it limits the economic output the

life or for the economic upside, night-time economies are a non-

negotiable for any city that has aspirations for the world stage.” ■

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FEATURE // The People_

Local feel

There’s a new group on the Sydney scene disrupting traditional hospitality and accommodation models. WORDS Vanessa Cavasinni

THE PEOPLE_ IS a new group within

something in the hotels and lifestyle space in

venue concept that blurs the lines between

year, it was a case of right time, right place and

the Sydney market driving an innovative

hospitality, accommodation, lifestyle and wellness. The goal is to create suburban

venues that tailor their experiences to local communities. The group is co-founded by

Sydney for a long time, and I think in the last

then right partnerships,” says Taylor. “This is us doing something we really believe in and that we think Sydney is lacking.”

Unlike other operators, The People_ will

Andrew Taylor (Cre8tive Property) and Paule

not manage every aspect of a venue, instead

both worked across the hospitality sector for

known for a particular type of offering. For

Schulte (The Keystone Group), who have a number of years.

The pair has known each other for well over

a decade, and have been planning the launch of a hybrid model for some time, drawing

inspiration overseas concepts such as Soho

House and Ace Hotel. “We’ve wanted to do 64 | Hospitality

creating partnerships with businesses that are example, at The Norfolk in Redfern, a wine bar and café is run by local hospitality operators. “We’ve got partnerships and experts in field that will ‘plug in’,” says Taylor. “It will be a

part of our brand going forward; working with people who do certain things super well, bring

“The idea is strong, and when you talk to people about it, they’re like, ‘Wow, that’s such an obvious solution to what’s going on in the market’.” – Andrew Taylor

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FEATURE // The People_

their own spin on it and are ideally from the area. If we were

going to go to the Hunter Valley or Melbourne, we’d do exactly the same thing.”

Schulte and Taylor have hit the ground running, acquiring

five pubs across inner Sydney — The Norfolk in Redfern; The Camelia Grove in Alexandria; The Exchange and Town Hall

in Balmain and The Exchange in Darlinghurst — to transform according to the new concept. And while all venues are pubs

to date, it’s location that is the key focus, particularly when it comes to the accommodation offer.

The People_ are betting on two key shifts within the

accommodation market: that travellers want to have more

authentic experiences in inner-city suburbs rather than just staying in tourist-focused CBDs; and that younger renters are looking

for affordable options in neighbourhoods they are being priced

out of. “Approachability is an important play and we see that as a

huge thing as the cost of living is really becoming quite ridiculous in Sydney,” says Schulte. “Unless you’ve got huge deposits, the

younger generation is moving elsewhere. We want to be able to

give them the platform to stay in Sydney in these areas and live

in an affordable way where they’re connected to a whole heap of

services, bars and restaurants that we have access to.”

and the community,” says Joanne Sproule, group general manager

is looking to hire staff that mainly live within the area. “We want

a near-CBD location, but we might in a more residential area. The

To drive the authentic neighbourhood feeling home, each venue

to give back to the community,” says Danny Webster-Clamp, group general manager – hospitality. “Where I was brought up [in the UK], you’d work in the local pub and you knew everyone who

came in. It became a community-based place for people, and for us, that’s really key.”

With integration and tailoring for the local community driving

most aspects of the business, none of the venues will really offer the same thing. “There’s no cutting and pasting going on here.

– accommodation. “For example, we might not do yoga classes in spaces we have, whether they’re terraces, rooftops, lounge areas, are also going to be incorporated into ‘the house’ concept.”

So why kick off the new concept with five venues, rather than

testing the waters with one or two first? “It’s all about belief! The idea is strong, and when you talk to people about it, they’re like, ‘Wow, that’s such an obvious solution to what’s going on in the market’,” says Taylor.

For Schulte, it’s also about rectifying some foundational

issues he and Taylor have witnessed in both the hospitality and

and making the rooms aspect more dominant,” says Schulte. “It’s

the shift in consumer thinking around accommodation. “Andrew

a different site that favours rooms more than hospitality. Every site will be different and every site will be partnership-centric.”

While The Norfolk will have a few accommodation rooms,

the site will cater to its community in a different way. The space has always had a large beer garden, and the group sees plenty of potential for the offering to underpin the venue. With few

accommodation industries long-term, in terms of affordability and and I have known each other for over 15 years, so this is not an overnight decision,” he says. “It is a combination of us knowing

we can solve developers’ problems through accommodation and

hospitality in a unique way. Both are fundamentally broken in this city, so is it risky? Yes, everything is risky.

“But there’s multiple ways we can use these assets to solve

backyards in Redfern, The Norfolk is being positioned in one way

those two fundamental problems which are not going away.

Redfern’s best backyard and every backyard in Australia has a

looking at it in a holistic way to maximise that property value.”

as the suburb’s communal backyard. “We said we wanted to be

barbecue, so that’s the dining concept,” says Sam Bull, creative

[Developers] might be looking at it two-dimensionally, but we’re The future looks bright for the group, with expansion plans

and opening chef. “It will be really relaxed with a choose-your-

for regional and interstate venues on the cards. “It’s a fairly

and classics on there and simple choices of proteins and veg for

be interstate and regional as well,” says Taylor. “We’re already in

own-adventure to build your plate. There will be some pub cuts lunch and dinner. But all concepts across the business will be completely different.”

The same can be said for accommodation and the wellness

and lifestyle aspects of each venue. “It really depends on the

neighbourhood, the building and what makes sense for the asset 66 | Hospitality

Using The Exchange in Balmain as an example, we’re turning a space which was 50 per cent hospitality into about 20 per cent

ambitious plan because we know it’s got a lot of potential, so it’ll those discussions with two key regional assets — one in the Blue Mountains and one in the Hunter. It’s a long-term play. This is a five- to 10-year plan to scale up.” ■

This story originally appeared in Australian Hotelier

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FEATURE // Public House, Richmond

A fresh start Jon De Fraga always had grand plans for Public House in Richmond, and now they’ve been realised.

JON DE FRAGA has owned Public House in

the views while having a meal or enjoying a

had a major renovation was with the previous

pull the trigger.

Richmond since 2013. The last time the pub

owners in the early 2000s, so the venue was in

beverage with mates. In 2019, he decided to

need of some refreshing.

What began as a four-month build turned into

the pub, De Fraga noticed a change in the

the expansion of renovation plans. Initially, the

While thinking about how to reinvigorate

local entertainment scene as the traditionally younger patrons the venue catered to had

started to gravitate towards other areas for their

hospitality and entertainment needs. “Richmond kind of lost a little bit of trade to Flinders Lane

for a while,” he says. “It had been the cool spot to go to for a little bit, but other venues were

an 18-month overhaul due to the pandemic and idea was to add the extra two floors — a massive structural undertaking in itself which ended up requiring more engineering and reinforcement than first thought. But De Fraga and his team made the decision to rework and refresh the original two floors of the venue as well.

The end result is a sleek yet inviting venue with

opening up around us and they were newer and

a French Riviera-inspired aesthetic. The ground

recapture that crowd, we thought we’d have to

bar moved to the back of the space instead of

a bit fresher, so we lost some of the crowd. To rejig the venue.”

Wanting to capitalise on views of Melbourne’s

CBD and the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), the publican considered doubling the height

of the venue by adding two storeys of rooftop space that would allow patrons to soak in 68 | Hospitality

floor has been rearranged with a new timber-clad the centre where it previously was located. The

dancefloor has been shifted to the middle to allow patrons to dance on into the night. Old bluestone and brickwork that was discovered during the

renovation have now been restored and displayed as a feature of the heritage of the building.

“We did initially think about having a flat rooftop, but lots of people have those and we wanted to do something a little bit different.” – Jon De Fraga

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FEATURE // Public House, Richmond The first floor, which had previously been an underutilised

functions area, has been reinvented as the Public Lounge; a cocktail lounge and functions space featuring curved velvet

booths, brass features and Art Deco style lighting. The Public

Lounge opens up to a terrace bar, which is semi-enclosed, heated and available for functions.

The renovation of this particular floor was in response to the

growing presence of one specific demographic in Richmond: the

corporate market. “We wanted to target the corporate community for lunches and post-work drinks,” says De Fraga. “The area is

becoming more corporatised right around us with big buildings

and some head offices have moved in like MYOB and Car Sales.

We wanted to target them with packages to come in for drinks and nibbles. We’ve got an area where they can have their own space

Since reopening in December, the venue has been booming and

cater for as well.”

two new rooftop floors are a large part of the success of the

and there are projectors so they can host meetings, which we can

The shining star of the reinvented Public House is the new two-

level rooftop and deck which has uninterrupted 360-degree views of Richmond Parklands, the eastern suburbs, the MCG and the

city skyline. The Rooftop Deck, the first of the two new outdoor floors, includes two separate bars to service patrons around the

space. The entire space is open-air; however a retractable roof and transparent retractable blinds mean the entire deck can still be

used in wet weather. Misters and heaters are also used to combat

has recouped a lot of the patronage it lost over the years. The

venue due to the demand for open-air socialising. “It’s been really popular,” says De Fraga. “Obviously we still need to abide by

the COVID restrictions we have in Melbourne, so we’re still on

limited capacity, but we’ve basically been booked out every Friday and Saturday since we opened. We’re booked out six weeks in

advance, and we’ve put minimum spends on some of the booths on Friday and Saturday evenings, which is working pretty well. Hopefully it continues.”

The venue is now so popular the publican had to put on

the elements. “You can still get the view, but if the weather turns

an extra full-time staff member just to keep up with booking

there. It becomes fully self-contained,” says De Fraga.

from the absolute lack of trade in 2020, and one that De Fraga

nasty, you can bring the blinds down and you’ve got heaters in The highest floor, the Rooftop Garden, is the show-stopping

component of the venue that has people returning to Public

House in droves. The floor is built up in stepped levels like an amphitheatre, with several booths on each level — meaning no matter where you sit up there, the view of the skyline is

unimpeded. The area is shaded with umbrellas, but De Fraga

already has plans to add more inclement weather protection to the area. “We did initially think about having a flat rooftop, but lots

of people have those and we wanted to do something a little bit different,” he says. 70 | Hospitality

enquiries, which average about 200 per day. It’s a welcome change took a gamble on by not tamping down on the renovation plans when pubs were shut down. “We just pushed ahead [with the

plans] and crossed our fingers, because you never quite knew

what the opening date was going to be,” he says. “We didn’t alter the design or the budget much, but things were very tight, let’s

put it that way! We were running out of funds.” It’s safe to say that by sticking to the plan, the gamble has well and truly paid off for Public House in Richmond. ■

This story originally appeared in Australian Hotelier.

VIDEO // Behind the scenes

CHAPTER & VERSE in the JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa presents the Last Chapter; a take on an Old Fashioned. Bartender Jiri Kazda steeps macadamia nuts in Jameson whiskey before combining with orange bitters, maple syrup and rosemary smoke. The cocktail is served in a clear bottle tucked inside a book that emits rosemary smoke when opened.

Ingredients Macadamia nuts 60ml Jameson whiskey Fee Brothers orange bitters Rosemary Maple syrup

Method 1.

Pour whiskey into a glass and add macadamia nuts. Leave to infuse before straining through a cheese cloth.

Put liquid into a beaker with ice and add maple syrup and orange bitters. Stir until combined.

Place cocktail into a clear bottle and infuse with rosemary smoke. To serve, pour over a single large ice cube and serve with garnish.

Scan the QR code to watch the full video brought to you by Cookers.

72 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Lauren Eldridge

Lauren Eldridge The newly minted Berowra Waters Inn pastry chef on returning to Sydney and falling into her new gig.

I LOVED LIVING in Melbourne and the

city has such an exciting food scene, but I’m always going to be a Sydneysider, so I had planned to eventually return. Like

many people, living through the lockdown in Melbourne changed my perspective on many things and I knew it was time for

me to be back home closer to my family. I

received a job offer in Sydney and decided that now was the best time for new challenges in my career.

I grew up about 30 minutes from the

Inn, so had known quite a bit about it even before I entered the hospitality industry. I

gifted my parents a meal there last year and they loved it, so I was keen to finally try it

out for myself. I went in for dinner and the whole experience was so exceptional that

I turned to my partner and expressed how

much I would love to work there. I thought about it for a few days and ended up

messaging the co-owner Vicki [Zwierzynski] who I had worked with in the past. By

happy coincidence, they were looking for a pastry chef and it all just fell into place. 76 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Lauren Eldridge I had done most of my training in a

smaller, intimate restaurant (Marque

in Surry Hills) and I was interested in

returning to that type of venue. I find my

creativity thrives in that environment. After nearly a full year of not being able to work, I was ready to take everything I had learnt

in my previous jobs and push myself further.

After nearly a full year of not being able to work, I was ready to take everything I had learnt in my previous jobs and push myself further.

Brian Geraghty (owner and head chef) was open to giving me free reign of the dessert menu, so it was the perfect opportunity.

Brian looks after all the savoury food

while I focus on the desserts, cheese and bread, so close to a 50/50 split. We both

know how important it is to have the menu flow, so we actively work to make sure

our dishes are cohesive and balanced. For example, if the last savoury dish is a rich dish, I know my first dessert needs to be on the lighter side.

The Hawkesbury area is perfect for

citrus, so I am using four different types

across the menu at the moment. Quinces

are great in winter. I also love using pears in the cold months.

The hospitality industry is tough and

resilient. Witnessing my friends and the industry transform their businesses in

order to survive and protect their staff

is amazing and inspiring. Although the

situation is undoubtedly tough, great ideas can be born from adversity, so ultimately, I am excited and hopeful for the future. ■ 78 | Hospitality

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POTATO BUn 4.5" 9108 48 PER CARTON

Also available:

Scan for more info on Tip Top’s premium burger bun range

Damper Bun 5” Flour Dusted

✓ freezer to table

9435 72 per Carton |

hamburger Bun 5”

✓ 6 months frozen shelf life

9772 72 per Carton

✓ available nationally TM

CONTACT YOUR LOCAL FOODSERVICE DISTRIBUTOR TO ORDER