Hospitality March 2021 by The Intermedia Group

NO.770 MARCH 2021

ROSHEEN KAUL • KARITON SORBETES • FISH SAUCE & GARUM

CONTENTS // March

Contents MARCH 2021

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The new guard of gelato-makers are here. 10 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 12 // PRODUCE Where to find local jujubes. 14 // BEST PRACTICE It’s time to rethink the way you hire. 16 // COLUMN Bistro Clementine’s Eric Morris on changing direction.

2 | Hospitality

18 // DRINKS Sustainability goals are ever-changing for Single O. 20 // PROFILE Rosheen Kaul on finding her way as a head chef. 44 // BEHIND THE SCENES Fishbowl’s miso eggplant bowl. 46 // EQUIPMENT Chinois strainers are a must for refinement. 50 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Ester Spirits’ Felix Clarke and Corinna Covner.

Features 26 // CHICKEN Barbecue chicken is back in a big way. 30 // OIL Two chefs on how they use oils for multiple applications. 34 // BURGERS The hype may have subsided, but concepts with longevity are sticking around. 40 // FISH SAUCE AND GARUM There’s a world of difference for chefs learning how to make foundational sauces.

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EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

TRADITION MEETS CONTEMPORARY Jung Sung has opened its doors on Chippendale’s Kensington Street, and we can’t go past the Moreton Bay bug two ways. @hospitalitymagazine

The new classic IF THE PAST year’s taught us anything, it’s

This issue, we profile Rosheen Kaul, a

that classics are, well, classic for a reason.

Melbourne-based chef who has worked in

Certain hospitality concepts have continued

lauded kitchens including the now-shuttered

to open (and flourish), and there’s a common

Dinner by Heston and Ezard. Kaul has recently

theme that weaves them together — they’re

taken on the role of head chef at Etta, and

rooted in simplicity and quality.

the piece is a great read on the importance

Take the humble chicken shop, for example. Chicken, salad and chips is great,

of giving and receiving support from peers and finding your own management style.

but have you seen what Sunday are doing

We also look at using oils in different

in Potts Point or tried Butter’s new House of

applications, how Ester Spirits are doing

Chook menu? Chefs Ryan Blagrove and Julian

things differently, sustainability goals with

Cincotta are taking the staple to new heights

Single O and fish sauce.

from house-made sauces to buying the Rolls-

A QUIET REPRIEVE I came across Amie Coffee in Chatswood, which revolves around two of my favourite things: coffee and croissants. @annabellecloros

I hope you enjoy this issue.

Royce of rotisseries and using the crème de

Annabelle Cloros

la crème of chickens.

Editor

FRIED CHICKEN DELIGHT Rosheen Kaul’s fried chicken recipe is one to commit to memory. @madeline.woolway

Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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4 | Hospitality

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IN FOCUS // Kariton Sorbetes

Ice cold A plan to kill time during the pandemic turned into a fully fledged business for two young chefs. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

IF YOU TOLD John Rivera he’d

Rivera found himself in the

there was a massive population

we’re just trying to put some

be making a living off putting

same position as many of his

of Chinese, Filipino, Vietnamese

spinners on them.”

stickers on gelato tubs one year

colleagues — out of work with

and Malaysian people who

ago, he would have laughed

creative energy to burn. “It

longed for the flavours of their

around eight flavours every

in your face. But 2020 had

started off with Minh and I

home countries.”

week covering everything from

a plan; the fine dining chef

not having work over iso,” says

joined forces with friend, pastry

Rivera. “We met up at a park to

The pair thought they’d put

(ube, blackberry, coconut)

chef and business partner

kick a ball around and thought

together 150 tubs a week,

— to buko pandan (coconut,

Minh Duong to launch Kariton

we’d do something to kill time.

but the demand for the

pandan); keso (cheddar cheese,

Sorbetes, a dessert concept

The dream as a chef is always

Kariton experience surpassed

bourbon vanilla, crackers); turon

that puts South-East Asian

to have your own place, but we

expectations to the tune of

(banana, caramel, jackfruit) and

flavours front and centre.

wanted to do something that

700 tubs at its peak. And it all

kalamansi hinebra (calamansi

made people happy and hadn’t

comes down to the offering,

and gin sorbet).

been seen before.”

which is reminiscent of what

Rivera has spent time in some of Melbourne’s most lauded

their signature — ube halaya

The pair currently sublease

you’d see in ice cream carts

a commercial kitchen and

kitchens from Amaru to Lûmé

Sorbetes; a concept that uses

in the Philippines. “We take

operate on a delivery-only

and Sunda; he also snagged the

gelato as a foundation for a

inspiration from what we had

model (powered by family

S.Pellegrino Young Chef Pacific

holistic dessert experience.

growing up, but we put a twist

members), but there are plans in

title in 2018. The young gun

“There’s a lot of great gelato

on it so there’s more texture

the works to open a bricks and

originally trained as a pastry

in Melbourne, but we had

and it’s more of a dessert,” says

mortar site and create a cart

chef, but largely worked as a

never seen any that excel and

Rivera. “The gelato base is a

for events. “We want to evolve

chef throughout his career —

specialise in South-East Asian

canvas. Flavour-wise, we’re not

from a single-faceted business

that is, until the pandemic hit.

flavours,” says Rivera. “We knew

trying to reinvent the wheel;

to something that goes out to

6 | Hospitality

That ‘something’ was Kariton

Duong and Rivera create

IN FOCUS // Kariton Sorbetes

“Flavour-wise, we’re not trying to reinvent the wheel; we’re just trying to put some spinners on them.” – John Rivera

the people and that people

recently started enjoying nights

can go to as well,” says Rivera.

and weekends off, balance

“We’re looking at Footscray. We

is front of mind. “We all know

see the cultural importance as

the effects of long, hard hours

immigrant children and how it’s

and pressure and [it’s about]

evolved into a hub of different

really changing the culture

cultures. Hopefully by the end of

of hospitality,” says Rivera.

this year it will come to fruition.”

“Making it a great career to

Rivera always wanted to

be in and rewarding, but also

open a restaurant, and the plan

[implementing] good habits and

is definitely still on the cards.

business practices to change

“Kariton is a great business

the way we think and operate

that’s a base for everything

from the get go.”

we want to set up later on,” he says. “When we open the gelato

Kariton is just one of the many

site, there will be a mini bakery

businesses to come out of

offering Filipino and Spanish

2020; it just happens to have

breads and then that will help

shaken up Rivera and Duong’s

us open other projects like a

career paths and they couldn’t

bar and eventually a restaurant.

be more chuffed about it. “It

Hopefully it means we can do it

shows the resilience, hard work

with minimal intervention from

and grit of people who started

angel investors or backers and

their own businesses and found

do it organically.”

what makes them happy,” says

The chef is looking ahead,

Rivera. “For us, we get caught

and has plans to instil a

up in the rat race of reviews and

workplace culture that will

hats, but when it comes down

benefit his future workforce.

to it, what you do should make

As someone who has only

you happy.” ■

8 | Hospitality

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SUPERIOR QUALIT Y

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

East Forged debut cold brew sparkling tea Tea professionals Kym Cooper and Tania Stacey have teamed up to launch a cold brew range that covers black, green and white teas. East Forged source black tea from Queensland, with all products produced at an independent craft brewery in Sydney. Flavourways include pitaya, calamansi and yuzu, with six packs retailing for $31.50. eastforged.com

Carlo Grossi releases salumi book Ombra: Recipes from the Salumi Bar Carlo Grossi Lantern; $39.99 Melbourne-based hospitality operator Carlo Grossi has released his debut cookbook which

Bar Bianco arrives

showcases the best of Ombra restaurant in the CBD. The Bourke Street venue heroes everything

Bar Bianco has opened its doors in Melbourne’s Hawksburn Village

from aged and preserved meats to

after a $3 million refurbishment. Glen Bagnara from Hemingway’s

bar snacks, pickles and ferments,

Wine Room is behind the venue and has curated a menu inspired

pizza, larger plates and desserts,

by European cooking, with snacks, share plates, larger dishes

with Grossi’s book chronicling a collection of

and desserts on offer. “Produce such as Sydney rock oysters,

go-to recipes in collaboration with his father Guy Grossi. Ombra is

jamón Ibérico, Ora King salmon, Portarlington mussels, Fremantle

available from 30 March. penguin.com.au

octopus, Port Phillip scallops and Sher Wagyu will be a feature,” says Bagnara. Italian and French wines will anchor the wine list alongside amaro, vermouth and cocktails. barbianco.com.au

Jay Fai wins Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants’ Icon Award Bangkok chef Supinya Junsuta, ‘Jay Fai’, has secured the 2021 Icon Award from Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Junsuta’s open-air

Chargrill Charlie’s open Bondi flagship

seven-seat venue secured a Michelin star in 2018 and was also featured in Netflix’s Street Food: Asia series. Junsuta has helmed

Sydney chicken shop Chargrill Charlie’s has launched a new flagship

the kitchen herself for more than 40 years, focusing on local

store in Bondi. Located on Curlewis Street, the venue is home to a

cuisine. “Jay Fai embodies the spirit of Asian gastronomy,” says

new concept — the Milk Bar, which has its own window on Gould

William Drew, director of content for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Street where visitors can grab a $2 soft serve, thickshakes, milkshakes

“Her unwavering dedication to her craft has earned her the

and limited items. All the signatures are available at the new shop

respect of her peers and makes her a worthy recipient of this

including chargrilled chickens, schnitzel, hot chips, rolls, burgers,

year’s Icon Award.”

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PRODUCE // Jujubes

Jujubes A date with a difference. WORDS Tawnya Bahr and Lucy Allon

as the Chinese red date or

Growing conditions and harvest

JUJUBES, OTHERWISE KNOWN

when left to fully mature on

Lebanese, Chinese and Korean

the tree.

cuisines, with dried dark red

Ziziphus jujuba, are being grown

On the east coast of Australia,

They can be sourced through

by an increasing number of

the bite-size fruit is harvested

Prickle Hill Produce in New South

flavour desserts. In Croatia,

Australian farmers across the

in late February through to late

Wales and Black Sheep Produce

jujubes are used in marmalades,

country — but what are they,

March. Because of the short

in South Australia.

juices and fruit brandy. In China,

what do they taste like and why

harvest season, they’re sold fresh

should you seek them out?

for a limited time and then dried

Origins It’s thought that jujube trees

jujubes used in tea, soup or to

they are preserved in liquor and eaten like Maraschino cherries

and sold throughout the rest of

Flavour profile and appearance

the year.

Eaten fresh, the texture is similar

of turning black in Vietnam.

Jujubes grow on trees that

to a crunchy, crisp apple and the

and they are smoked to the point Australian chefs have taken

originated from southern Asia

have chaotic growth nature

flavour is very sweet and tangy.

to pickling fresh jujubes to serve

between Lebanon and Northern

with crisscross branches and

The taste is a cross between an

with cheese or even pairing them

India, which is why they appear

hard-to-see sharp thorns making

apple and a pear. When dried,

with duck.

in these cuisines, but they have

cultivation dangerous work.

they have a jammy, caramel

spread as far as the Bahamas,

As the fruit matures, so does

flavour similar to a date.

the Caribbean and Trinidad. But

the colour which transforms

by far, China is the largest global

from dark green to yellow and

Culinary uses

digestion and are also rich in

producer of jujubes.

eventually becoming dark red

Jujubes are common in

vitamin C. ■

12 | Hospitality

Jujubes are said to have a host of health benefits including improving blood circulation and

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BEST PRACTICE // Staffing

Managing staff shortages in 2021 Tips to recruit and retain valuable workers in the current climate. WORDS Ken Burgin

IN 2019, AUSTRALIA welcomed

can be much less expensive than

Update digital systems

more than 300,000 travellers

housing in the city and is worth a

Online rostering results in

Jump on the training bandwagon

on working visas and 250,000

mention in your ad. Your website

tighter cost control and easier

It won’t take long to find a

students. A large number took

should include information about

scheduling. Integrate systems

training provider who will

up employment in foodservice,

local attractions, schools and

with your bookkeeping to reduce

support you with supervision,

retail, healthcare and

lifestyle as well as your opening

compliance issues. Plus, online

materials and even a subsidy.

agriculture. The arrivals have

hours, facilities and menus.

work systems make jobs easier to

Everyone needs to start ‘growing

mostly stopped, and many local

Working at your venue could

understand. Using an iPad is just

their own’, and the hospitality

hospitality workers have also left

provide an opportunity for a chef

as important as using a knife for

training sector is highly

the industry — low pay and poor

to buy property they couldn’t

modern chefs.

developed.

conditions take their toll. The old

afford in a big city.

Build a relationship with your local school

Think outside the square about who you will employ

methods of recruiting, managing need to be reconsidered and

Consider using a professional recruiter

Hospitality is a popular subject,

You may prefer a low-cost

revised.

They do all the work — hunting,

and working with teachers

16-year-old, but the 45-year-

shortlisting, interviewing and

could mean you’re the first to

old could be more stable and

Improve job advertisements by selling the benefits

recommending. There’s a fee,

hear about the best students.

flexible. Set your standards high

but the cost of doing it yourself

Host site visits and offer

— if the applicant doesn’t meet

is much greater — you know how

work experience to students.

them but has a good attitude,

Most ads are selfish and ask

well it’s worked in the past or

Managers and chefs could also

start the coaching and provide

for ‘creative, hard-working,

not! Use a migration agent to

offer to be guest speakers on

constructive feedback. ■

committed team players’,

help current workers achieve

having a successful career in

who are ready to work every

permanent residency.

the industry.

us that people listen to radio

Modernise the menu

WIIFM (what’s in it for me). Sell

TV food shows are popular all

Keep in touch with former staff

your easy parking or transport

over Australia, and everyone is

Whether it’s connecting on

links, flexible roster, modern

thinking about food in a new

social media or just sending

kitchen, efficient systems, good

way. If the highlight of your

a text, it’s a good idea to

pay and friendly team.

offering is schnitzel, you’ll be

maintain connections with

seen as being stuck in the past.

workers who could always return

Promote your area

Keep the favourites, but a fresh

or recommend someone for

Regional rents and real estate

new approach is essential.

available jobs.

staff and driving productivity all

weekend. Basic marketing tells

14 | Hospitality

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COLUMN // Eric Morris Monica-Paula Zotti and Eric Morris

From bar to bistro The Bistro Clementine owner on knowing when to shake things up. WORDS Eric Morris I CHOSE THE original

There is certainly a trend in our

cent of our weekly income on a

menu items by lavishing care

name of Bar Clementine to

area against natural/organic/

Friday, so I plan to focus on that.

and attention to detail on them.

infer a more casual dining

biodynamic wines! As it’s an

experience. However, we found

older crowd, there is much

bring people to the area, I will

it encouraged more people to

more appeal in wines from

also look to provide a live music

come for a pre-dinner drink

recognisable areas. Chianti

element. There’s not much

I’ve learned that just because

instead of dinner. The name

and Argentinian Malbecs are

else in our area aside from

you’re passionate about

change to Bistro Clementine

prime examples of wines that

pubs, so we have to actively

something, it doesn’t translate to

places emphasis on our dining

sell well as they’re exotic and

create a reason for people to

business success. The old adage

angle, and as we operate

comfortable enough to be

walk down the road. I feel live

of ‘location, location, location’

under a restaurant licence,

popular. There is definitely a

music will appeal to the older

certainly holds up, and if I could

it’s imperative we are clear in

growing contingent of guests

demographic of Pyrmont and

do it all again, I’d save up more

our offering.

who either abstain from drinking

create a ‘buzz’ around our re-

money to be able to afford a

or just want a tipple, so we

opening at night.

higher-traffic location.

But we have had to pivot

To help provide interest and

So far, the response has been great from our customers.

towards daytime trade as

have provided a greater range

it’s so much more consistent

of options using ingredients

We’ve been careful not to

also not be underestimated, and

than evening trade; at least in

already on hand. As we’re

alienate our clientele by leaning

I would try to find a business

Pyrmont. There isn’t a strong

now open for lunch more

too far into the fine-dining

partner who could help me

professional demographic living

often, I hope it helps boost

space. Most guests seem very

in the daily operations of the

in the area, so we were pushing

average spend.

money-conscious at the moment.

venue and also participate in

a rock up a hill trying to appeal

Instead, our chef Bilent Peel

service. My silent partner is a

to a largely retired residential

reputation for our dinner

brings a precision to the menu

legend, but I’ve learned I need

area. We had many nights

offering, it shouldn’t be hard

and execution on the plate

more support on the ground,

where we would only have a

to introduce a revised evening

that is hard to come by in the

rather than my wallet. It’s a

single table dining, and we just

trade again. However, I will look

café realm (at least for a local

lot of responsibility to be the

couldn’t make the numbers

to focus our labour hours on a

neighbourhood joint).

mainstay of the floor team as

work; even though our Friday

Friday night dinner to avoid the

trade was huge.

costs eating into my margins.

the wheel; we’re simply trying

social media and business

We would make almost 50 per

to elevate common everyday

strategy in the same breath. ■

16 | Hospitality

As we already have a

The power of teamwork can

We’re not trying to re-invent

well as balancing the books,

THE FEMALE EFFECT

IN RECOGNITION OF INTERNATIONAL WOMEN'S DAY ON MARCH 8 - WE CELEBRATE WOMEN THROUGH THE SUPPLY CHAIN SEE THEIR STORIES AT RAREMEDIUMMAG.COM

DRINKS // Coffee

Do your bit From discouraging single-use cups to achieving carbon neutrality, Single O’s sustainability journey is leaving no stone unturned. WORDS Madeline Woolway SYDNEY COFFEE ROASTERY and café

the number of milk bottles going in the

for using your name, what would you like

meeting — ambitious sustainability targets.

the roastery.

economic sustainability.”

Single O has a history of setting — and In 2017, the company aimed to reduce

bin. Solar panels were also installed at

Post-lockdown, it’s a different game.

to do?’ Then it’s a conversation. It’s more

single-use cups by 50 per cent. A year later,

The company is doubling down on its

When it comes to environmental

usage dropped 47 per cent.

government organisation that collects a

“The more I get into sustainability, the

with a number of strategies implemented, Since then, the initiatives have grown

and the team is targeting more than

waste. “We’re a long way from being

saints, but we’ve always tried to do our

bit,” says General Manager Mike Brabant. “[COVID-19 caused] a hell of a lot of reflection and I think Emma [Cohen,

efforts with World Coffee Research, a nonlevy from coffee roasters to fund research

into climate-resilient coffee varieties. Single O has also added three more projects to the fold: a kickback program for its producer partners, joining 1% for the Planet and obtaining carbon-neutral certification. The former will see Single O give

director], quote unquote, said, ‘If we can

six producers money — on top of the

down a knock tube, we’d do more for

beans — for a project of their choice. The

avoid the economic equivalent of grounds the planet’.”

Considering the coffee industry is

highly vulnerable to the effects of climate change, there’s a lot more to do. Prior to the pandemic-induced lockdown, Single O had taken a number of steps. Beyond

diverting single-use cups from landfill, the

team co-created the Juggler, which reduced 18 | Hospitality

sustainability, there’s no easy way out.

more I’m learning that it’s about sustained pressure across multiple touchpoints in your business, with engagement across the whole organisation,” says Brabant

when asked what the coffee industry most

needs to address when it comes to tackling environmental sustainability.

“I started [thinking about] the single

premiums already paid for the specialty

thing we should be focusing on. But when

first one is already in the bag. “We recently

frameworks such as B Corps or the United

gave $5,000 to a Honduras collective of

five coffees and they bought drying patios for their coffees, which they’ll use for 10 years,” says Brabant. “We pay them for

their services, and they’re really good at it.

What we’re saying to them is, ‘We’re giving back this gift, which is contributing a bit

you look at some of the more robust

Nations Framework, it isn’t simple. So

we took a different approach: how can we organise our business around it?

How can we embed our vision and our

brand purpose to ensure it’s part of our

company’s mission? How can we set up

our sustainability team cross-functionally

sustainability, the more I’m learning that it’s about sustained pressure across multiple touchpoints in your business, with engagement across the whole organisation.” — Mike Brabant

— rather than just having a sustainability

grounds. “It’s interesting because the

department across the organisation?

methane, which has an impact on global

manager — so that it’s embedded in every

Joining 1% for the Planet has been the

With so many opportunities for

coffee industry. “We like 1% because it

its environmental impact, Brabant

Single O broaden its focus beyond the

is really towards the climate,” explains

Brabant. “It’s not directly talking about the quality of coffee. But we sell an agricultural product and that gets

forgotten, right? I hate to use the word product, but in Australia, you can get specialty on every corner. You forget

where it comes from; that someone’s put

thinks there’s an opportunity for more

conversations to take place. “When we did No Death to Coffee in 2018, it was great,” he says. “We got 30 or 40 roasters to join; we should be meeting more.” The project saw the World Coffee Research Checkoff Program supported through Single O’s coffee sales.

It was a chance conversation that got

Single O on the 1% roster. The founder of

natural environment.”

Tim Williams posted about the not-for-

Then, there’s carbon neutrality. Single

O is currently assessing its entire supply

chain, with the aim of obtaining carbonneutral certification in 2021. “We’re

working through the first step now, but we

think by August, we will have achieved it,” says Brabant. “It’ll take about six, seven

months to get it. The one we’re chasing is A surprising amount of Cafés can reduce water and electricity their impact by are used during the powering down coffee brewing process machines overnight

Australia’s coffee industry to reduce

their heart and soul into growing a green product halfway around the world in a Startups around the world are using grounds to make carpets and roads

warming effects,” says Brabant.

next step in an evolution that has seen

commoditised, because we sell a specialty

Coffee grounds are a high-value material that often goes into landfill

grounds go to landfill, where they emit

Climate Active, which is the governmentmandated certification.”

The process has already kicked up a side

project — assessing the impact of coffee

Melbourne-based roaster Bureaux Coffee profit organisation on LinkedIn just as Single O was looking into it. “We did

World Aeropress Championships together,”

explains Brabant. “So when I saw him post about [1%], I reached out. It was really

useful because he talked to me about the

producer initiatives they’re doing and how they qualify. Had I not seen his post and

had a relationship with him, it might have taken us another three months.”

The pandemic didn’t help. “I think

people were trying to survive, right?” says Brabant. “At that point, it was economic sustainability and people sustainability.

Before JobKeeper, the question was, how can we stop everyone losing their jobs? I would say climate did move to the

backburner. But around June, we started thinking about the producer impact

and the fact that we’re still in a climate

emergency even though there’s a global pandemic. COVID-19 slowed down the

supply chain. Borders have been closed so pickers haven’t been able to travel from

one area to another, and you’ve got coffee

rotting on trees. There’s been very specific pressures on producers throughout

COVID. And that was the other fork to No Death to Coffee; we talk about people,

planet and producers. And that’s where

the kickback program for producers came from. We knew we needed to put more money back into producers’ pockets.” Ultimately, it’s time for the entire

industry to reignite the conversation. ■ March 2021 | 19

DRINKS // Coffee

“The more I get into

PROFILE // Rosheen Kaul

Rosheen Kaul A simple love of food took Rosheen Kaul from truant to head chef. WORDS Madeline Woolway PHOTOGRAPHY Annika Kafcaloudis

20 | Hospitality

Instead, Kaul looked to some of

“late entry” into the world of hospitality.

Melbourne’s best kitchens for tutelage.

esculent, the 28-year-old chef was

restaurants to work because … if I was

Despite a long-held lust for all things

originally on a different trajectory; one that saw her studying psychology and neuroscience while moonlighting in

high-end fashion. “Culturally, there was

an expectation I’d go to university,” says

Kaul. “But I happened to have a chat with

my parents one day and what they said —

their mistake was saying — was that once I

“I’ve always gone straight to good

going to do it, I wanted to do it properly,” she says. “For me, it had to be fine dining because it was the best environment I could be in for my education. And

the things I was seeing at work versus the things I was seeing at school were years apart.”

finished, I could do whatever I wanted.”

At Victor Liong’s Lee Ho Fook, Kaul took

Instead, she almost immediately set about

into restaurant quality. “Lee Ho Fook was

Needless to say, Kaul never graduated.

finding a job in hospitality, eventually

landing a gig as a kitchen hand. “I couldn’t get a job for ages because the last place

I worked was Jimmy Choo,” she says. “I

was working in luxury fashion and nobody wanted to hire me to wash dishes because they were like, ‘Well, you’re a bit fancy’.” Nothing more than a love of food was

behind Kaul’s decision to drop her studies.

PROFILE // Rosheen Kaul

IN HER OWN words, Rosheen Kaul is a

an appreciation for turning the familiar the place I started my apprenticeship,” she says. “It was really cool because it

deviated away from fine dining, but it was a really precise version of the food Victor

grew up with. It had a pretty big effect on the way I see food. I think the way I cook

“I really struggled to care about my formal education because all I actually cared about was food.” — Rosheen Kaul

now is quite heavily influenced by those initial experiences.”

“I really struggled to care about my formal

education because all I actually cared about was food,” she says. “I mean, I was a really greedy child and I’m a pretty greedy adult. It’s a simple thing — it wasn’t so much a

passion for the industry or for cooking or

anything else: I just really, really like food.” While a double degree in science was

off the table, Kaul hadn’t quite escaped the trappings of conventional learning.

In fact, the traditional three-year chef’s apprenticeship spun out to three and

a half. And while many in the industry

lament the loss of a four-year curriculum, it was more than enough for Kaul, who

admits she was “super naughty and never went to class”.

But truancy didn’t extend to the kitchen; instead Kaul found a learning approach that fused with her ambitions. “I found

studying cookery dull,” she says. “You only handle everything once and it’s the best way, or the most optimal way. It wasn’t so much a matter of me not wanting

an education; I read extensively and I

converse with the best people I can for

different subjects and different styles of

cooking. It’s not a matter of not wanting to learn — it has to be worthwhile I guess.”

March 2021 | 21

PROFILE // Rosheen Kaul

“It is my first obviously head chef role, so I don’t want to reflect the negative or the positive elements of any of the other chefs I’ve worked under.” — Rosheen Kaul

A stint at now-shuttered Ezard followed.

Kaul walked away with invaluable pastry experience, but the technical skills came with exposure to a less-desirable facet

of the industry. “It wasn’t the kitchen for me,” she says. “It was too backwards … misogynistic.”

Dinner by Heston, which closed in

mid-February 2020 on the back of wage theft accusations and financial turmoil,

was the setting for Kaul’s most formative

were absolutely stunning. Everybody knew

the enormously popular zine series The

de partie.

someone about protein structures and

Joanna Hu.

experience, which saw her rise to chef

“I spent a decent amount of time there;

three and a half years,” she says. “It was

one of those kitchens where, if it’s not for

you, you got weeded out pretty quickly. It

was just such a different style of operating.

so much about something. You could ask

another about the best way to break down

protracted lockdown, Kaul found herself

Heston school, isn’t it?”

Martinez. “Smith and Deli really opened

that restaurant was unbelievable. It’s the Even though Kaul’s career has taken a

different direction, the acumen has stayed

loved it.”

says. “Even though I don’t have as high-

Kaul found her footing and discovered

a kitchen that differed wholly from others

with her. “It definitely still applies,” she

tech equipment, the theory still applies.”

— in terms of structure and mentality as

Some experiences have offered both a

best practice,” says Kaul. “There was a

a brief stint at Carlton Wine Room,

well as access to produce. “It was always reason for everything. And the reason was

always based in science. When I started, it

read like a 50 Best list; everyone’s resumes 22 | Hospitality

As Melbourne endured a second,

a goat. The knowledge kicking around

That kitchen wasn’t in the real world. But

it [was] a beautiful thing and I loved it — I

Isol(Asian) Cookbook with illustrator

in the kitchen of “dear friend” Shannon my eyes to the way we approach

dietaries,” she says. “The amount of

effort [that establishment] puts into

accommodating dietaries is unbelievable. I saw all the tips and tricks they use to make it delicious.”

The opportunity is one Kaul doesn’t

masterclass in skill and culture. After

take for granted. “They don’t often have

COVID-19 hit. Kaul was a self-described

to work and never leave, which is such a

“unemployed chef” for much of the year — although she kept herself busy, publishing

spots available because people go there

testament to the way the whole place is run,” she explains.

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PROFILE // Rosheen Kaul

known for in order to build something better in its place is a burden that’s

fallen in the lap of Kaul’s generation.

And, while it might be an unfair task, it’s one challenge the chef is well placed to take on. “The thing that is on my mind

day-to-day and week-to-week is mental health,” says Kaul. “I’ve actually got

bipolar disorder, so I have to operate

in a way that makes sure I am, I guess,

sane enough to do my job. And because of that, I am overly conscious of how

my chefs are feeling, whether they’re

sleeping ... all the small things that make a world of difference to having positive

“We do all these things to raise awareness [about mental health], but frankly, everybody’s very aware.” — Rosheen Kaul

mental health.”

Kaul says the conversation happening

around the industry is still too broad.

“We do all these things to raise awareness [about mental health], but frankly,

everybody’s very aware,” she says. “I don’t It’s a sensibility Kaul has tried to emulate

at Etta, where she was appointed head

chef in November 2020. “What I’ve been trying to implement — and I hope I’ve

been successful — is an inclusive culture,” she says. “I think what’s important for

conversation, she asked a range of

questions: “Have you run a section before?

Have you done ordering? Have you written a roster? Have you written a menu?” Kaul answered all in the affirmative.

“But the most important thing, and

know how much more awareness we need to raise — it comes down to individual workplaces now; the culture you’re

bringing and the culture you’re instigating. On one hand, people will say, ‘If you have a problem, come to me,’ and on the other

hand ask, ‘Why don’t you work extensively

me is to know that everybody knows

the reason why we both agreed in the

so much. Everything is a back and forth

be completely hands on and lead me

are as bad as they’ve ever been and

“In a head chef position, you don’t often

“Small kitchens can achieve positive

something. I value everybody’s opinion

conversation. It’s my first obviously head chef role, so I don’t want to reflect the

negative or the positive elements of any of the other chefs I’ve worked under. I’m just trying to come into my own.”

Etta Owner Hannah Green met Kaul

when she was cooking alongside Charley

Snadden-Wilson (former head chef of Etta) on International Women’s Day.

“During lockdown, Hannah cold called

me and said, ‘I’ve got a head chef position open, would you be interested?’” says

Kaul. “I explained to her extensively that

I was not ready. I was like, ‘Thank you so much, that’s so flattering, but I can’t in

good conscience agree when I don’t think I have the skill set for it’.”

Green didn’t let Kaul off the hook so

easily. Over the course of an ongoing 24 | Hospitality

end, is because she said that she would through what I needed to do,” says Kaul. get a restaurant owner who is like, ‘Don’t

worry, I will show you how to do this’. For that reason, I couldn’t say no. Plus, it’s a beautiful space.”

Although Kaul is once again in a

position that enables on-the-job training, unlearning currently weighs heavily on

her conscience, too. “I will admit, I was

and also, what are you whining about?’”

According to Kaul, fine dining kitchens

it’s unlikely to change any time soon. environments, but large, fine dining

kitchens — no way,” she says. “What

drives people to fine dining is that sort of

pressure, a desire to work, to push yourself beyond the extreme and cook the most incredible food you could ever cook in

your life. That’s why I went there because I wanted to be the best.”

For now, Kaul has found a happy

pretty awful when I was in charge of a

medium at Etta; a kitchen that’s supportive

was stressed out and the pressure was

kind of chef I am, but the nice thing is

team at Dinner by Heston,” she says. “I unbelievable, but that’s not the culture I want, as a person especially, to be known for.”

The process of unlearning the toxic

culture the hospitality industry has become

and challenging. “I’m still figuring out the

we’ve had a positive response to the menu and I’ve got a really beautiful team,” she says. “It’s baby steps. I’m not reaching for the stars yet, I just want to cook nice food.” ■

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FEATURE // Chicken Sunday's rotisserie chicken and potatoes

Birds of a feather A look at the chicken boom sweeping across Sydney. WORDS Annabelle Cloros BARBECUE CHICKEN IS part of

Butter in Sydney has garnered a loyal fan

time, you would have been hard pressed

But the chef has decided to do something

Australia’s food canon. At one point in

to find a suburb without a chicken shop

or two. While many mum and pop venues have slowly started to fade out, there’s a guard of chefs keen to take on the

challenge of elevating a classic concept. Hospitality talks to Butter COO and

Executive Chef Julian Cincotta and Sunday Culinary Consultant and Chef Ryan

Blagrove about why they’ve decided to

hone in on the protein, cooking techniques and what to look for when selecting a producer.

26 | Hospitality

You see, chicken is a family affair for the

club for Julian Cincotta’s take on fried chook.

chef, whose dad ran Big Rooster stores on

a little different. Butter recently opened its

one in Sydney really remembers the brand,

third outlet in Chatswood and tacked on a new offering to the regular menu — one

that combines Cincotta’s upbringing with a

healthier choice for customers. “Butter is the

palace of fried chicken, hip-hop, Champagne

and sneakers … however I always wanted to do more with our food and give customers a bigger choice; something healthier,”

says Cincotta. “It was only natural we do

something I have always been fascinated with — the humble charcoal chicken.” Hence, House of Chook was born.

the New South Wales South Coast. “No

but they were bought out by Red Rooster,” says Cincotta. “I have memories of being around charcoal chicken from a young

age and I think it brings back memories

for a lot of people. Charcoal chicken shops seem to be disappearing in recent years, so I wanted to bring it back and we felt

the opening of Chatswood was the perfect time to introduce a new offering.”

The timing was also right for newly

opened Sunday in Potts Point. The eatery is based around the notion of family dinners

top. “We get them in fresh daily so they’re

chicken shop. Chef Ryan Blagrove, who

and firm and results in a tastier final

The site also just happened to be a former

Sunday imported their rotisserie from France

Butter is launching a retail release around its sauce range

you may know from Apera, joined Morgan McGlone to develop a culinary offering

Preparation is a key part to achieving the

shop with some European influences as

want from a barbecue chicken. Sunday

a modern hybrid version of a chicken

in-house.” Potato dinner rolls are an essential chicken side for Cincotta

product,” he says.

that heroes rotisserie chicken. “We’re

well,” says Blagrove. “Everything is made

Chicken wings are one of Sunday’s best sellers

never frozen, which makes the flesh plump

Sunday and Butter share a common link, in that both venues use Bannockburn

chickens from Victoria. When Blagrove

first started delving into rotisserie a few years ago, the chef says he basically

sampled every chicken available to him,

but Bannockburn won out. “Some chickens have a chemical taste and have been

chlorine washed, but Bannockburn doesn’t have any of those funky flavours — it just tastes like really good chicken,” he says.

“The chickens are hung up and air dried before they come to Sydney so the skin

is always dry and plump — they’re hard to beat.”

Cincotta agrees, and says that while

Australia is home to chickens that are great all-rounders, Bannockburn comes out on

savoury, caramelised, smoky flavour you

kick off the process with whole birds that the team truss up with a knot Blagrove developed. The chefs skip brining and go straight to the spice rub. “We use a

house chicken salt which is inspired by European flavours and a hint of Cajun

and Creole style, too,” says Blagrove. “I use celery seeds, Himalayan pink salt,

smoked chipotle powder, Cayenne pepper and some other secret ingredients. We

are quite generous on the amount of salt on the outside because we don’t salt the inside; it’s all in the skin. It really helps

season the bird up; and getting that skin right is crucial because that’s where all

the flavours are. Once you get it toasted,

all the fats and oils come out and it helps caramelise and bring out more flavour.”

Over at Butter, Cincotta is a fan of pre-

salting birds. “We butterfly first and then salt the birds two days in advance which

“In Australia, there probably isn’t a dish that so many people from all walks of life can connect with.” – Julian Cincotta

March 2021 | 27

FEATURE // Chicken

and the food offering echoes the ethos.

FEATURE // Chicken

“It’s mostly done by feel and eye. You have to know what you’re doing.”

Butter's charcoal chicken and sides

– Ryan Blagrove

flavours and tenderises the chicken,” says

cycle, which is around 45–50 minutes. By

House-made sauces are a big part of the

juices are all natural.”

just move the bottom to the top and start

with options covering everything from

the chef. “We don’t brine the birds — the On the seasoning front, Cincotta is

tight-lipped: “Like the Colonel, we all need to have some secrets!” But Hospitality can confirm roasted capsicum is a key player alongside coriander, cumin and paprika.

the time the ones on top are done, you again. There are six positions you can

move the spit, but you can’t just hit it hard and fast. It’s mostly done by feel and eye. You have to know what you’re doing.”

Butter doesn’t have a rotisserie, instead

“We’re going for a combination of spiced,

cooking chickens using two methods. “We

sweetness,” says the chef.

until just cooked so it retains the juices

smoked, char-roasted flavours with a bit of

Sunday decided to splash out on the

equipment front and purchase the “Rolls-

Royce” of rotisseries from Chelles, France. The Rotisol is the crème de la crème of

rotisseries and Blagrove says there’s just

no comparison. “You have direct flame, a cast iron hearth and tiles above that, so

you have three layers of heat to play with,” he says.

Blagrove has spent years learning the

technique for rotisserie cooking, and says there’s “a method to the madness”, but a

lot of it comes with time and experience. “We always start with three to four spits with six birds per spit. I put three at the top on a high heat and put two more

underneath towards the end of the cooking 28 | Hospitality

cook the butterflied bird in the combi oven and then we kiss it on the charcoal to

finish,” says Cincotta. “The bird generally becomes very dry when cooking directly

over charcoal the whole time. Every bird is finished to order and stays succulent and

juicy. From start to finish the whole process probably takes around 45 minutes.”

While a well-cooked chicken is key, a full meal involves sides. Sunday have taken

the traditional route and upped the stakes.

Blagrove says roasted cauliflower has been a hit with diners alongside seasonal roast vegetables with onion and fennel seeds.

Of course, most people can’t go past roast potatoes, shoestring fries and coleslaw, which the team punctuate with fennel and mint.

chicken-eating experience at the venue, chimichurri to burnt chilli aioli, madras

mayo (which Blagrove compares to a curry

aioli), gravy and a signature Sunday sauce. Butter has also gone big on the sauce

front as Cincotta is a believer that “any

charcoal chicken is elevated by the sauces it’s accompanied with.” The range covers 10 options including toum, buttermilk ranch, spiced BBQ, fire hot sauce and honey mustard. The chef is also a fan

of adding potato dinner rolls, pickles,

shoestring fries with house chicken salt

and a salad “to bring a little freshness to the whole event”.

In a time where customers are finding

comfort in simplicity, venues can offer the dining public an experience that ups the

ante when it comes to quality and cooking

techniques. “It’s a great product that brings back so many good memories to people,” says Cincotta. “We find food is strongest

when it has that emotional connection to

people’s pasts. In Australia, there probably isn’t a dish that so many people from all walks of life can connect with.” ■

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FEATURE // Oil

The foundations

of flavour From olive to grapeseed, oils are a kitchen essential for all chefs. WORDS Monique Ceccato

FATS AND OILS not only serve a practical

of The Salopian Inn, about the flavour

of much ‘younger’ oils, it’s little wonder it’s

unique flavours — or lack thereof — have

they play in the kitchen and their love of

Chef Chris Howard sees it, oil hierarchy is

purpose in preventing stick, but their

a noticeable impact on the way a dish

presents. They can act as a binding agent,

profiles of different fats and oils, the roles neutral oils.

the assumed king of the kitchen. But, as a thing of the past.

“I use a lot less olive oil than I used

as an additional flavour or as carriers of

Humans have been using olive oil in

to,” admits Howard, the man behind

There are a number of cooking oils

thousands of years. In fact, ancient

Onion in Perth. In Howard’s kitchen, oil

flavours in a dish.

available from the classic olive to

grapeseed, coconut and everything in

between. There’s reason for that — no two oils work in the same way, and no singular oil is perfect for all applications.

Hospitality speaks to Chris Howard,

chef and owner of The Humble Onion,

and Karena Armstrong, co-owner and chef 30 | Hospitality

a culinary and medical capacity for

amphorae olive oil pots uncovered in Greece suggest the production of the

oil dates back as far as 4000BC. Olive

oil is considered to be the first-ever oil

the all-day dining menu at The Humble choice doesn’t come down to perceived

superiority, rather the implication of what he calls ‘and’ flavours in his dishes.

“A while ago, if I wanted a fennel

produced for consumption, pre-dating the

pollen oil, I would have opted for olive

some 2000 years.

better,” says the chef. “But, in reality, you

production of soybean and coconut oils by When olive oil is standing next to a slew

oil because I would have thought it was have fennel pollen and olive oil. Now, I

can amplify the flavours you’re telling people are in a dish, you probably want to stick with something more neutral.” — Chris Howard try to remove the idea of those ‘and’ flavours.

a cooking style that lets her garden-grown and

over things and just eating them as they are.

virgin olive oil on salads and for dressing cooked

For me, I love pouring beautiful fresh olive oil It presents nicer, and it generally has a nicer mouthfeel than neutral oils. But, I like the

neutrality of sunflower oil and grapeseed oil

because you have a much purer flavour at the

locally sourced produce speak for itself. “I love meats. If I’m pan-frying or roasting a piece of fish, I add the olive oil just at the end to get the flavour.”

In a similar vein to olive oil, the addition of

end of the product.”

the distinctly nutty, slightly sweet aromas and

The Salopian Inn’s co-owner and head chef

dishes to life. “Coconut oil has a strong flavour

Karena Armstrong echoes Howard’s sentiments, maintaining the unmistakable flavour profile of

extra virgin olive oil is best reserved for finishing and flavouring. “I love the grassy green notes

of a good oil,” she says. “I find [those flavours] are better maintained by using the oil at room temperature as more of a seasoning.”

After stints at some of Australia’s top restaurants

including Lake House, Icebergs and Billy Kwong, Armstrong settled back in her home state of South Australia and opened McLaren Vale’s

much-lauded Salopian Inn. Here, she fostered

flavours of virgin coconut oil can bring certain

that I really enjoy in baking, cooking curries and making roti-style flatbread,” says Armstrong. The chef likes pan-frying fish in coconut oil

before adding it to the curry base to establish an extra layer of complexity. “I find coconut

oil can tolerate high heats and the flavour is

intensified,” she says. “The coconut becomes

one of the flavours of the dish which makes for excellent flavour building.”

Though they’re largely tasteless, ‘neutral’ oils including canola, vegetable, sunflower and grapeseed are often a go-to in the kitchen.

Armstrong says neutral oils excel in their ability to carry flavour without imparting any flavour characteristics on a dish. “Super neutral oils

really don’t have a strong flavour, but sometimes it’s the lack of flavour I really love,” she says. “It gives you a blank palate to build your flavours from.”

Howard agrees. “At the end of the day, chefs

are all looking for more control, so if you can amplify the flavours you’re telling people are in a dish, you probably want to stick with

something more neutral; unless you’re including olive oil as a flavour,” he says. “It will never be

a detraction [from your dish] to use any of the neutral oils.”

Thanks to their relatively high smoking points, neutral oils are also the preferred fats for deep frying. Rice bran, sunflower, vegetable and

canola oils can all be heated upwards of 200

degrees Celsius before they start to lose their Chris howard

shimmer and show signs of burning. “With

vegetable and sunflower oils, as soon as you March 2021 | 31

FEATURE // Oil

“Chefs are all looking for more control, so if you

FEATURE // Oil Coconut oil has a shelf life of up to two years

Olive oil is best enjoyed at room temperature

Oils that have surpassed their smoking point should be discarded

Oils should be used as soon as possible for maximum freshness

pourer to [prevent] the oil constantly

“If I’m pan-frying or roasting a piece of fish, I add the olive oil just at the end to get the flavour.” – Karena Armstrong push past about 225 degrees Celsius,

between six to 12 months; olive oil fares

things will start to darken,” warns Howard.

months and coconut oil will stay stable

you’re going to start to see smoke and “At that point, the structural integrity

of the oil is very much affected and you

should never use it again after. You can’t just cool it down and start again.” Just like trying to persist with any burnt or

compromised ingredient, the reason for

ditching oil that’s hit its smoking point is

simple: “The flavour of the burnt oil is very prominent,” says Howard.

Changes in the structural integrity of

fats can occur off the heat, too. When

exposed to light and air, the carbon chains

in fat will start to go through the chemical processes of oxidisation and hydrolysis,

breaking down the molecules and leading

to rancidity. The result? Foul-smelling and tasting oils that are no longer suitable for consumption.

When stored correctly, most cooking

oils can be enjoyed months after opening. Canola and vegetable oils have the

shortest shelf life, lasting somewhere 32 | Hospitality

being in contact with oxygen,” says

Armstrong, though she still believes the

best preventative measure is using the oil within a month of opening while it’s still

fresh. “Any fat can go rancid and that’s not good; I value flavour deeply.”

No matter what Armstrong or Howard’s

slightly better and keeps for around 12

preference for fats and oils in their

for up to two years. “I am a big fan of

it a prominent characteristic of the oil or

well-sealed containers and using an oil

dishes, one thing is clear: flavour — be something it lacks — is key. ■

CMY

FEATURE // Burgers

Here to stay The burger craze peaked in 2015 across the country, but concepts with longevity are still going strong. WORDS Annabelle Cloros

THE FIRST HAMBURGER was said to

Hospitality talks to Bar Luca’s Sarah

Kony lived in Melbourne before moving

have been created in 1900 in New Haven,

Robbins and Short Order’s Simon Kony

to Perth and noticed there just wasn’t the

more than a ground meat patty between

power and how they’ve established

“There were a couple of burger places that

Connecticut, USA. It subsided of nothing two slices of bread — but that was all it

took to create a foodstuff that’s made 2.36 billion times a year — and that’s just the

about creating concepts with staying

businesses that are continuing to expand in the current market.

output from the Golden Arches.

Short Order

peak burger boom between 2015–2017,

Kony was a committed burger fan before

The Australian market arguably reached

with dyed buns sandwiching too many

meat patties, truffle-laden sauces, crisps,

chips, cheese and more together. For some,

it was fun while it lasted. For others, it was a novelty propelled by social media.

But a few burger shops decided to take

a different route from the start — one

grounded by quality ingredients, simplicity and consistency. 34 | Hospitality

same burger presence in his new area.

had been around forever and only a couple of newish ones, so that was where the whole idea started,” he says.

The burger aficionado went on to open

Short Order Founder and Director Simon

the first Short Order store, which was a

going on to open his first Perth store — to

in 2015. Three years later, Short Order

the tune of hitting a new burger spot each week with his friends. “We wrote a blog

and we’d rate shops and compare them,” he says. “In the back of my mind, I was keeping notes on where they got their

buns, their beef ratio and what cheese

was good. After a while, I had the right

ingredients to make a pretty good burger.”

pop-up, at The Sunshine Harvester Works secured a permanent shop in the CBD. “I felt there was a need for us to grow into

another area,” says Kony. “You just have to

take the risk; the opportunity came up and it was a really good location. The area was in need of a burger shop and we wanted to cement ourselves as a strong brand in the CBD.” 2020 saw the opening of

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FEATURE // Burgers

Short Order sticks to a menu of eight burgers

Bar Luca uses Haverick Meats for their meat patties

Short Order recently debuted a housemade lupin and beetroot patty

The Blame Canada with maple-glazed bacon is one of Sydney’s most iconic burgers

“We make sure everything is the same quality and we don’t change anything; and if we do, it’s only to improve the quality of the burger.” — Simon Kony another permanent location, but this time,

Kony attributes Short Order’s continued

to close down the pop-up after five years

quality and consistency. “Being honest and

in Fremantle. The team also made the call in operation.

Short Order’s menu is concise at just eight burgers, and championing local produce is very much at the core of the offering.

“It doesn’t have to be overcomplicated; it’s simple, fresh ingredients that are mostly locally sourced,” says Kony. “For me, it’s

growth to three things: transparency,

open with customers is really important,” he says. “We make sure everything is

the same quality and we don’t change

hunch burgers were about to kick off in a

the quality of the burger. Communicating

to burgers in 2014 and haven’t looked

anything; and if we do, it’s only to improve with our customers is what brings people back.”

While Short Order now has two

about the quality of the burger, not what

permanent digs, Kony says future locations

good on Instagram.”

to grow a tiny bit more; I’d like to find

crazy shit I can put into it to make it look A tight-knit relationship with Blackwood

Valley Beef has also gone a long way to

cementing Short Order’s position in the market. “It’s organic grass-fed beef and

probably the best in Perth in my mind,” says Kony. “We pride ourselves on our

are definitely on the cards. “We might try a way to centralise our prep to increase consistency,” he says. “As for advice on

how to stay solid … be transparent with

customers, be consistent and always find ways to improve.”

meat being top quality; it’s definitely not

Bar Luca

almost daily so we can make sure it’s fresh.

25 years, but the Phillip Street venue

big way. They switched the bistro offering back since.

The Bar Luca kitchen team have created some of Sydney’s most-loved burgers,

but the Blame Canada, which started as a special, propelled the brand to new heights. The burger sees a beef patty

topped with American cheese, maple-

glazed streaky bacon, maple aioli and

poutine. “It’s become an icon now!” says Robbins on its popularity. “I think it’s

the perfect balance of sweet and salty.

Combined with the juicy beef patty, cheese

the cheapest and we get our beef delivered

Sydney’s Bar Luca has been around for

I work very closely with the owner of the

in the CBD hasn’t always been a burger

The perfection that is Blame Canada

Robbins took over the venue in 2011 with

the family-owned business, which started

farm, which you wouldn’t normally get the opportunity to do, and they take a lot of pride in their work.” 36 | Hospitality

hub. Chef, Co-Owner and Director Sarah her partner James, and the pair had a

and poutine, it’s a piece of perfection.”

played a part in the steady expansion of

with a spin-off concept. “When the burgers

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FEATURE // Burgers James and Sarah Robbins

really started to gain popularity in 2015, we knew we needed to expand,” says Robbins. “Being a licensed venue, we couldn’t allow

“I think being family-owned and not a franchise has a huge part to play in it. We’re involved in every part of the business and can ensure our standards stay what they should be.” — Sarah Robbins

minors in unaccompanied, so we decided to

open a smaller ‘takeaway’-style store, which was BL Burgers.”

There are now BL Burger locations in

Darlinghurst and Parramatta, with a Loaded by BL concept in Newtown and another to come in Edmondson Park. Robbins says Bar Luca’s continued presence in a fluctuating market

comes down to consistent involvement. “The

Don’t forget the bun! Focusing on quality ingredients for your burgers should always extend to the bun. Will it complement the flavours inside, hold together during delivery and consumption and meet the

initial hype of Sydney’s burger scene has slowed, and there’s definitely been a lot of closures of

people who tried to jump on the bandwagon,”

she says. “I think being family-owned and not a

franchise has had a huge part to play in it. We’re involved in every part of the business and can

ensure our standards stay what they should be.”

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Bar Luca and its sibling venues have been

leading the Sydney burger game for more than seven years, and the team still mixes up the

offering through specials. Naturally, there’s also

been a rise in demand for meat-free alternatives. “Plant-based products and dietary requirements play a much bigger part in the burger market than they did a few years ago,” says Robbins.

“We use The Alternative Meat Co. for our plantbased patties, but there is still a huge demand

for standard burgers. We also change our menu seasonally and try to feature at least one of the

recent specials and keep crowd favourites. Those that provide a great product and service will continue to thrive.” ■

38 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Fish sauce and garum

Past forward Chefs are taking the time to modernise ancient practices, with house-made fish sauce and garum making a comeback. WORDS Madeline Woolway

FERMENTATION HAS LONG been a

to showcase the fish sauce a little bit more,

you extract the liquid for the fish sauce,

looking to traditions from myriad cuisines

normally takes a while to ferment and it’s

other things,” says Le. “The fish itself is

favourite pastime of chefs, with many for inspiration.

Hospitality speaks to Anchovy’s Thi Le

and Attica Summer Camp’s George Wintle about their respective interests in fish sauce and garum.

While there’s no shortage of commercially produced Vietnamese-style fish sauces

on the market, Anchovy chef–owner Thi Le hasn’t shied away from fermenting different variations in-house.

The Melbourne restaurant uses a range of

I might do batches on my own, but it

a lot of labour — it can be a year before we can even touch it.”

Le lists three styles she’s been playing

around with: a more pungent version of

fish sauce most are familiar with, a squid rendition and a crab option. The chef is

[2020] and it has another three to four months. They normally do it with rice bran, but I can’t get hold of any.”

Sardines were the subject of a less-

found the fish stays intact [during the

make it with anchovies in Vietnam, and

sauce. “I haven’t made it before, but I’ve process] and the liquid that comes out almost clarifies itself.”

Le takes whole carp, sourced from the

I do small batches of different styles for

Then everything gets pressed down. “I

40 | Hospitality

one has been going since March or April

successful attempt. “To be honest, I don’t

Murray River, and removes the guts before

certain dishes,” explains Le. “When I want

now cured, so it’s almost ham-like. That

also experimenting with a Lao-style fish

options depending on the scenario. “It’s

hard to keep up with the production, but

you can wash off the fish and use it for

rolling the flesh and frames in wheat bran. decided to go down that path because after

like the flavour of sardines,” says Le. “They because they’re so small, there aren’t as many guts. Sardines are a lot larger, so when you have all the guts, it’s a very intense, pungent flavour.”

Next on the list is whitebait, but Le has

had trouble sourcing the fish, along with

anchovies, from local fishermen. “We’re in

FEATURE // Fish sauce and garum

a country that has lots of amazing seafood, so to do something the Vietnamese have been doing for a long time with our

seafood is interesting for me,” says Le. A similar ethos drives Oakridge alumni

George Wintle’s pursuit of garum, a fish

sauce analogue that was once ubiquitous

throughout ancient Mediterranean cuisines. Originally a fermented fish product used as a condiment, garum’s rebirth has shapeshifted to suit modern cookery.

Wintle’s interest in garum began under

the tutelage of former Oakridge head chefs Matt Stone and Jo Barrett. It’s no surprise, given the venue was known for its efforts

to minimise waste. “Garum is a really good way to minimise waste, especially from

meat, which would normally just go into stock,” says Wintle. “Waste doesn’t have

to go in the compost, especially when it’s coming from a good supplier. You don’t

want to waste it in any regard, so we’d take all the trim and turn it into garum.”

The process is essentially the same

no matter the base ingredient, with

adjustments made to ratios of salt to

protein. It’s essentially the same method used centuries ago, which involved

throwing fish scraps — bones and innards — from gutting into limestone amphora,

layering with salt and covering the contents with a mesh cloth. The mixture was

left to ferment, with the heat of the sun converting juice into garum.

The result, apparently, was something

soy sauce-esque. “It’s very close,” says

“Garum is a really good way to minimise waste, especially from meat, which would normally just go into stock.” — George Wintle

Wintle. “I took a lot of inspiration

from Zilber. What we’re doing now is incorporating koji bacteria, which is

Finding the best ratios of salt to protein

commonly used in soy sauce and miso. It

comes from a mix of trial and error and

to survive. It alters the flavour and speeds

charcuterie or leftover roasted chicken

provides an environment for good bacteria up the process quite a bit. It takes eight weeks instead of six months to a year.” While many chefs in Australia have

continued to utilise seafood, others,

like Wintle, have started to experiment with protein-heavy produce. “It can be

anything that’s rich in protein,” says the

chef. “[At Oakridge] we did one with egg whites because we had heaps left over

educated guesswork. Garum made from

you might want to add more for roast chicken because it’s quite dry.”

Of course, the end result varies. “Some

will need less salt than one made from

might be sweeter, some might be really

in salt, you don’t need to add much,” says

difference depends, again, on what you

raw meat. “Charcuterie is already so high Wintle. “We had heaps of roast chicken trim left over from a function once, so

I just lobbed that into a pot with some

koji and salt; it ticked over and came out really well.”

The same approach goes for adding in

from making desserts. We made one with

any bacteria, such as koji, and water. “With

as well.”

water because they’re so high in water

mushrooms and I’ve made them with chilli

content already,” says Wintle. “Whereas

mushrooms, you wouldn’t add as much

meaty,” says Wintle. However, the level of start with. “We did a lot with raw beef,

kangaroo and lamb and ended up with a similar end result,” says Wintle. “I guess

if you’ve cooked a chicken and put in all

these additions, it will change it — there would be a difference between making

garum with raw chicken versus cooked.” Like Le, some experiments didn’t

produce a desirable outcome. “When we March 2021 | 41

FEATURE // Fish sauce and garum

“At the end of the day, it’s ‘something and salt’. It’s trial and error.” — Thi Le first did the egg white garum … I don’t

think I’ve ever smelt something so bad,” he

says. “When you’re making garum, it sits at

down. For the one I made recently, instead

doing with it, the whole thing needs to

cent [salt] brine, just to cover [the crab]

harmony to add depth and body.”

of adding whole salt, I added a 30 per

and let it sit. After about eight months, all the flesh inside the crab leached out and flavoured the water.”

The squid variation is made with

offcuts. “I blend all the bits and the ink

with salt and let it sit for seven to eight months,” says Le. “Then we extract the

liquid, pasteurise it by boiling and flavour with galangal.”

The process of fermenting might seem

around 60 degrees for about eight weeks

simple, but Le says it can be quite difficult

in the sun for two months. It was the most

results. “It’s all about being there to

— imagine if you left some egg whites out horrible thing.”

Le also has to make minor adaptations to her fermenting process to suit different proteins. “The crab is quite intense,”

she says. “Where my mum is from in Cà

Mau — the deep south of Vietnam — you normally let everything turn to mash if

because of the tendency for fluctuating watch it, taste it and see it,” she says.

“At the end of the day, it’s all your own

use. Le mostly uses the more pungent fermented fish sauce to season soups. “But we also turned it into a paste,”

she says. “We pounded out eggplant,

tamarind, chilli, garlic and lemongrass and

incorporated it all into a thick sauce served with crudites. The crab one I’ve used as

a dressing mixed with olive oil. With all

the fish sauces and fermented products, we don’t actually use a lot of salt at the

restaurant. [Fish sauce] is a bit rounder, more complex.”

Wintle mainly turned to garum as a

seasoning agent. “We were using it for

ferment a lot longer and age a bit more. At

says. “Or we would brush it on meats we

and infrastructure, I’d probably let things

the end of the day, it’s ‘something and salt’. It’s trial and error.”

Le prefers to veer away from products

such as traditional garums, which she finds

different because the shell doesn’t break

thing,” she says. “Depending on what I’m

42 | Hospitality

The desired profile depends on expected

preference. I think if we had more time

you’re making fish sauce from anchovies.

When you’re dealing with crab, it’s slightly

be balanced. Fish sauce needs to work in

too fishy. “Maybe It’s a Vietnamese palate

quite a few different applications,” he were barbecuing.”

As with the fermentation process, the

more you experiment, the more uses you’ll find. One thing’s for sure, a house-made

fish sauce or garum is sure to set a menu apart from others. ■

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VIDEO // Behind the scenes

Fishbowl’s

miso eggplant An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series. Brought to you by Cookers.

FISHBOWL CO-FOUNDER Nathan Dalah shows us how to make one of the brand’s most popular vegetarian dishes; a miso eggplant bowl that ticks all the sweet and savoury boxes.

Ingredients 1 eggplant Meru miso Rice wine vinegar Sake Mirin Soy sauce Salad mix (edamame, kale, cabbage, purple onion, shallots, radishes, tofu) Fried shallots Rice of choice Pickled ginger Sesame seeds Lemon shoyu dressing

Method 1. Halve eggplant and score. Top with olive oil and bake until softened. 2. Combine Meru miso, mirin, rice wine vinegar, sake and soy sauce to make a glaze. 3. Cover eggplant with the glaze and slowly cook over a flame. Sear with a blowtorch until caramelised. 4. Put cabbage and rice in a bowl, season with soy sauce and sesame seeds. 5. Mix salad together, dress with lemon shoyu dressing and add to the bowl. 6. Place eggplant on top and garnish with fried shallots and pickled ginger.

Watch the video now at hospitalitymagazine.com.au or scan the QR code to watch the video

44 | Hospitality

EQUIPMENT // Chinois strainer

Chinois strainer The chinois is one of the most versatile kitchen tools.

Designed to sit within a pot or

Essential for

other vessel

creating smooth pureés and sauces Commonly used for straining stocks, sauces and soups

Can be used to sift dry ingredients such as flour and sugar

Pastas and noodles can be drained in seconds

Typically crafted from metal

Ideal for washing vegetables and fruits

46 | Hospitality

Most models are dishwasher-safe

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Ester Spirits

Ester Spirits Two hospitality professionals are crafting spirits in Sydney that tell a story. WORDS Felix Clarke and Corinna Covner

AFTER STARTING MY career in the

kitchen, I (Felix) moved into the bar

shortly after and never looked back. I

have worked and run various hospitality venues from mega pubs to cocktail bars

to dirty nightclubs. Corinna and I met 12

years ago and started working together at

Bellagio Café. Our relationship has always been intensely focused around creation,

from opening our bakery and developing products to smoking and curing meats, fermenting, pickling and so on.

Our foray into spirits started nearly

a decade ago. What began as a little

competition between friends making

bathtub vodka and gin turned into us looking to make the most perfectly

versatile gin for G&Ts and Negronis. After years of testing and benchmarking, we finally landed on our recipe.

48 | Hospitality

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Ester Spirits

The gins were created for us; it’s our expression of what we want in a gin ...

We were very close to going to market

in Australia, its climate, ingredients and

ourselves as fiercely independent also

product/brand would not be where it is

gin craft but bring Australian innovation

development that on-premise would be

three years ago, and had we done that, the today. The extra time allowed us to dial in

on what we wanted to see out of the brand and where we wanted the juice to sit in

the market. We went back to the drawing board on design and teamed up with our

good friends at Form-A studio to create a

people. We wanted to blend traditional

to form a modern classic. For us, balance

has always been the driving force behind our gins, with juniper being the star. For

our gins, we have tried to craft spirits that flow across the palate and tell a story of

helps. We decided early in our business

our focus to start. You won’t find us in the mega-chain bottle shops and this gives venues a point of difference to filter to the customer.

We have been particularly choosy in who

its craft.

we have approached so far with the gins,

and would sit within the luxe end of the

bill and then substituted as many

aspects of the business (including sales),

enabled us to delve into what we wanted

compromising on our vision for a

brand/label that was timeless, individual category. As for the gins, the extra time

to see in our gins and the true expression of our lives and experiences in a drop.

We feel that with the divergence of gins

and the explosion of the contemporary gin category, there was a need for someone to delve back into the more traditional,

juniper-forward characteristics. Call it a

renaissance … we felt there was a need to move into gins suited to a wide variety of

We started with a traditional botanical

native botanicals as possible without contemporary classic. As well as imported botanicals such as Macedonian juniper,

cardamom, coriander, orris and licorice, we have used native Queensland finger

lime and macadamia, native lemon myrtle

50 | Hospitality

comfortable with without having to push into any markets too soon. Winning awards certainly helps too …

that transcends just business partners.

in the on-premise space.

Longstanding friendships in the

for itself. We have been getting great

what we want in a gin and our lifestyle

brand organically and in a way we are

certainly helped in the uptake of the gins

in flavour and quality regardless of trends created for us; it’s our expression of

in the market. We are able to build the

As husband and wife business owners,

Having a career in hospitality has

industry have helped us open the doors

or holes in the market. The gins were

we feel we are still under represented

and Tasmanian pepper berries.

cocktails and mixed drinks: ‘the every gin’. At Ester, first and foremost, we believe

and with Corinna and I taking care of all

for meetings, but we feel the gin speaks feedback when it’s in front of the beverage controllers in venues.

The fact that we have positioned

we have an understanding of each other We know how each other’s palates work

and have very different focuses within the companies. Corinna is all things creative and Felix takes care of logistics and the juice! The pros of working together are

often the cons. It is hard to separate work

from home, but it means we are throwing ideas around all the time. ■

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