NO. 800 NOVEMBER 2023
THE TAPAS REVIVAL | JAPANESE SLIPPER | FUNDA | 10 PLATES
CONTENTS // November
Contents NOVEMBER 2023
16
28
Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The Piccolina Gelato Project has wrapped up its third season, and there’s more to come. 8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events, and more. 10 // PRODUCE How to grow and use bergamot. 12 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
2 | Hospitality
38
Features 14 // DRINKS The Japanese Slipper signals the return of more-is-more cocktails.
28 // SPANISH TAPAS Two chefs on the return of the iconic dining style.
16 // PROFILE Matti Fallon gives us the lowdown on his new venue Colt Dining.
32 // 10 PLATES Dishes you need to try before the end of the year.
44 // EQUIPMENT Scoop with ease with a skimmer.
36 // FUNDA Sydney’s latest Korean hotspot has a Michelin-star team.
46 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Sushil Aryal from Miss Pearl Bar + Dining.
38 // LONG-TERM VENUES Three establishments share the recipe to longevity.
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social Keep up with the Hospitality team
ITO ARRIVES We checked out Esca Group’s new venue Ito the night before opening. @hospitalitymagazine
A note from the editor WE’RE FAST APPROACHING the end of the
HAPPY BIRTHDAY Sou Ramen Lab celebrated its first birthday with $10 bowls. @annabellecloros
Our November issue is very much covering
year and with it comes the opportunity to
throwback themes — think the return of the
reflect — on the most memorable plates of
Japanese Slipper, the resurgence of tapas,
food that have come across the table this
and a Korean restaurant channelling Y2K
year, of course. It’s been a big year of eating
vibes. There’s also a profile on Colt Dining’s
here at Hospitality, with countless tartares,
Matti Fallon and a piece on some of the
prawn cocktails, and Basque cheesecakes
oldest venues in the country.
consumed. So, I thought I’d put together a
Until next time,
list of the top 10 dishes I’ve tried in 2023 and
Annabelle Cloros
hopefully inspire readers to add some extra
Managing Editor
THROWBACK IN TIME Smoke’s current cocktail offering is all about nostalgia. @_amynorthcott
Follow us
venues to their end-of-year dining lists.
@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine
PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au MANAGING EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au DEPUTY EDITOR Amy Northcott anorthcott@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag
SUBSCRIPTION RATES Australia: 1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST) 2 years (20 issues) = $158.40 (inc GST) – Save 20% 3 years (30 issues) = $207.90 (inc GST) – Save 30% SUBSCRIPTION RATES New Zealand: 1 year (10 issues) = $109.00 Asia/Pacific 1 year (10 issues) = $119.00 Rest of World: 1 year (10 issues) = $129.00
DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2023 – The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd
4 | Hospitality
41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419
Average Net Distribution Period ending September 2019 – 11,506
This season's culinary creations, done better with Saputo
HORECA
CO
y r a n i l Cu
• FESTIVE SEASON EDITION •
N NECT
CRACKERS!
Christmas '23
SCAN HERE TO VIEW OUR FOODSERVICE MAGAZINE FOR:
RECIPE INSPIRATION • OUR FOODSERVICE RANGE • USAGE RECOMMENDATIONS • PRODUCT INFORMATION Contact your local distributor to enquire or email aus.foodservice@saputo.com for further information.
IN FOCUS // The Piccolina Gelato Project
Chefs vs gelato The Piccolina Gelato Project: a chance for chefs to live their wildest dreams through the medium of gelato. WORDS Amy Northcott
PICCOLINA GELATERIA
would invent, so I created a
people … we have had some
each chef to throw away the
launched her very first gelato
just that.”
and also worked with some
all that gelato could be,” says
FOUNDER Sandra Foti
collaboration with Scott Pickett
project that allowed me to do Each annual season of
in 2020. The duo created
The Piccolina Gelato Project
caramelised banana gelato
different chef creating three
three Thai-inspired flavours: with roasted peanuts and
lemon sorbet infused with
lemongrass; ginger and Thai
basil gelato; and caramelised palm sugar gelato with palm
sugar caramel and honeycomb. It was an experience that
would spark the launch of The
Piccolina Gelato Project. “I was
runs for eight weeks, with a flavours that are available
for one week at a time. The program has seen many
hospitality figures try their
hand at gelato including Serai’s Ross Magnaye, Hope St Radio’s Ellie Bouhadana, and Etta’s Rosheen Kaul.
When it comes to selecting
new, up-and-coming chefs
who are award-winning and
quite established.” Experience making gelato is not a
requirement; the project is a chance for both Foti and
the chefs to learn from each
other. “It’s lots of fun to have
the opportunity to teach these incredibly creative individuals something new,” she says.
“Sharing knowledge is one of
down with Foti and her team
says Foti. “There are no real
There’s no real brief besides
around them to watch how
they worked and see what they 6 | Hospitality
rules on how we choose the
possible, and to try things they don’t necessarily get to try in their own restaurants.” It’s a
hands-on process finalising the flavours with Foti’s team, with lots of trial and error before the products are locked in.
participated in the project
towards chefs who are doing new and interesting things,”
opportunity to be as creative as
very fulfilling.”
to how I was trained,” says
Foti. “I simply wanted to be
project is to allow chefs the
Nagesh Seethiah of
the project and is personally
collaborators, it’s all about inspiration. “We gravitate
Foti. “The whole basis of the
the most inspiring aspects of
fascinated by the way a chef
approached gelato compared
rule book and to reimagine
Once chosen, chefs sit
to start working on flavours.
trying something new. “We ask
Melbourne’s Manzé
earlier this year and jumped at the chance after being
approached by Foti. “[I was
told] to keep it fun, engaging, and to get people excited
about a different take on gelato — to not hold back,” he says.
Seethiah had never made gelato before and was able to add a new skill to his repertoire. “I got to learn gelato. Sandra and
Head Chef Simon Colacino are doing a great job of keeping it contemporary while keeping tradition alive.”
Seethiah drew upon the flavours and ingredients of his
childhood in Mauritius for his gelatos — think marzipan
gelato with quince jelly, basil seeds, and evaporated milk
syrup; coconut gelato with lightly roasted grapes, creamed
cornbread, and toasted coconut; and Mauritian vanilla bean
gelato with pineapple jam, toasted coconut flakes, and spiced rum syrup. “The quince alouda [Mauritian milk drink] was
a reflection on adopting a childhood favourite into a gelato
sundae with quince,” says the chef. “The vanilla gelato with pineapple jam was influenced by the decades-old ice cream
brand in Mauritius called Vona Corona.” His advice for future chefs taking part? Get inventive. “Don’t be afraid to be as creative as you can be, Simon and Sandra will help you achieve the gelato of your dreams.”
The Piccolina Gelato Project has not only been a successful
and enjoyable exercise for Foti and her team, but its patrons who are always eager to try the new gelatos. “It’s been
amazing — many of our loyal customers ask us about when the next series is launching,” says Foti. “This year, we had
some flavours that would have tested people’s tastebuds, but
I think it is one thing customers really enjoy about the project and it’s all part of the fun.”
If you’re wondering when you can get your hands on the
next gelato cups, Foti says The Piccolina Gelato Project will
return in 2024. “We’re always looking at ways to innovate, so
next year may take on a different form — watch this space!” ■ November 2023 | 7
IN FOCUS // The Piccolina Gelato Project
“The whole basis of the project is to allow chefs the opportunity to be as creative as possible, and to try things they don’t necessarily get to try in their own restaurants.” – Sandra Foti
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events, and more. EDITED BY Amy Northcott
House Made Hospitality’s Martinez opens in Sydney House Made is continuing its venue streak with the launch of Martinez in Quay Tower. Executive Chef Alex Wong (Lana) and Head Chef Andrea Sonnante (exSagra) have looked to the South of France for inspiration, creating a lighter, Mediterranean-style menu for the restaurant, terrace bar, and kiosk. Think fried calamari with lemon; saffron tagliatelle with blue swimmer crab; grilled swordfish; and steak frites. “We want Martinez to capture the relaxed style of drinking and dining that is synonymous with holidays on the Mediterranean coast,” says House Made Hospitality Director Scott Brown. martinez.sydney Photography by Jason Loucas
Recipes for a Lifetime of Beautiful Cooking Danielle Alvarez with Libby Travers Murdoch Books; $49.99 Recently appointed Sydney Opera House Culinary Director and celebrated chef Danielle Alvarez has teamed up with author and food writer Libby Travers for her latest book Recipes for a Lifetime of Beautiful Cooking. It is an invite into Alvarez’s home kitchen and includes more than 100 recipes the culinary talent loves to cook for her family and friends. The dishes are an insight into Alvarez’s impressive culinary CV, too, with influences spanning from her Cuban roots to time spent cooking across California and Sydney.
Young Hearts’ new resident chef announced James Cornwall of J Sheekey London, Cumulus Inc., and Tenable fame has been revealed as Young Hearts’ resident chef. Cornwall is taking over the Melbourne bar for six months to serve up bar snacks and small plates under the name of Buvette, which means taproom or tavern in French. “It’s a neo-style bistro, but it’s not French and it’s not fine dining; it’s fun dining and that’s what is most important to me,” he says. Dishes cover a boloney club sandwich; Karubi Wagyu skewers; a Corner Inlet fisherman’s basket; and black Angus steak frites with mushroom ketchup and red wine sauce. Buvette is open Wednesday to Saturday evenings. younghearts. melbourne Photography by Jake Ellis
8 | Hospitality
NEWS // Entrée
Meatsmith: Home Cooking for Friends and Family Andrew McConnell and Troy Wheeler Meatsmith butcher Troy Wheeler and renowned
Invite only
restaurateur Andrew McConnell have penned the
Public Hospitality and The Maybe Group’s much-loved Sydney Mexican cocktail
store’s first cookbook Meatsmith: Home Cooking
bar El Primo Sanchez has revealed it has a speakeasy bar located behind a
for Friends and Family. The book is the ideal guide
hidden door. Guests can only access La Prima if they find it or receive an invite
to cooking proteins and outlines step-by-step
from a staff member. The 10-seater, 20-standing speakeasy is spinning old-school
processes to mastering iconic dishes such as
Mexican tunes and serving a rotating cocktail list designed by the Maybe Sammy
glazed roast duck, steak tartare, rib-eye steak,
team. Guests can also order food from a curated menu by Head Chef Alejandro
beef Wellington, roasts, and barbecued goods.
Huerta. elprimosanchez.com
There are more than 80 recipes included, which
Photography by Declan Blackall
Hardie Grant Books; $60
are sure to inspire new dishes or help master familiar favourites.
Melbourne’s Her Bar welcomes new head chef Alumni of Cecconi’s, The Press Club, and BKK Nada Thomas has been appointed head chef of Her Bar on Melbourne’s Lonsdale Street. Thomas has transformed the former French-leaning menu to showcase food from Italy, Spain, and France while also giving a nod to her own Turkish background. Expect dishes such as half-shell scallops with romesco and kipfler potatoes; lamb skewers with Moorish spices; grilled Wagyu tongue; and spaghetti with prawns and pangrattato. Locality is a focus for the chef, who is working with producers such as Natoora, Somerset Farms, Clamms Seafood, Spurrell Foraging, and Savour and Grace. her.melbourne Photography by Parker Blain
November 2023 | 9
PRODUCE // Bergamot
Hybrid of a lemon and a bitter orange
Can be grown in pots Used in cookies,
with a minimum of 20L
custards, marmalades, syrups, and cocktails
High in vitamin C
Scientific name is Citrus bergamia Pale yellow flesh
Bergamot The Italian citrus might be hard to come by, but you won’t forget it. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
Origins
there are very few commercial
per day and regular watering
bergamot is not typically
Bergamot is the signature citrus
producers, with Mountain Yuzu
in the early morning or late
consumed for its flesh — its
of Reggio Calabria and is native
in Victoria part of the small
afternoon. Trees typically grow
most prized element is the rind.
to Southern Italy where it grows
local collective.
between 3–5m tall and are
While it is juiced, it’s typically
covered in vibrant green leaves
combined with other fruits or
prolifically along the coast. Its name is derived from the
Growth and harvest
that have a distinct perfumed
added to food or beverages
Italian word Bergamotto, most
Seeds should be sown 1mm
aroma and later conceal small
in small quantities due to its
likely a nod to the Italian town
deep and spaced well apart
white flowers. Trees should bear
intense flavour. Bergamot is
of Bergamo. The citrus fruit is a
during the months of September
fruit within one year, which are
tart however it is less sour than
member of the Rutaceae family
through to December. Once the
comparable to an orange in
a lemon and more akin to a
and is sometimes referred to
seeds germinate and produce
size. Bergamots have a knobby
grapefruit or a bitter orange.
as an orange due to its size,
leaves, they can be moved to a
exterior with skin changing
Bergamot is a key element in
however its flavour profile is
more permanent location in the
in colour from lime green to
earl grey tea and is also used
very different as is the way the
ground or in a pot — either way,
slightly yellow as they ripen and
in desserts such as custards,
fruit is consumed. Bergamot
the soil must be enriched and
becomes ready for harvest.
cookies, panna cotta, and
is also found in Southeast
able to drain freely. Of course,
Asia, Morocco, Argentina, and
sun is of the utmost importance:
Southern France, but is mostly a backyard fruit in Australia as
10 | Hospitality
gelato. Besides tea, marmalade is its most common application,
bergamot plants require at least
Flavour profile and culinary uses
three hours of direct sunlight
Unlike its fellow citrus siblings,
profile to the iconic spread. ■
where it lends its signature
NEWS // Drinks
Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related. EDITED BY Amy Northcott
Sights on sherry Rutherglen’s Morris Whisky are at it again with a unique barrel innovation. The limited-edition Smoked Sherry Barrel whisky is toasted in French oak before being finished in hand-smoked Sherry barrels produced by Anton Remkes. The result is a mature and complex whisky that combines savoury notes with citrus. Expect aromas of lemon myrtle and glazed ginger as well as smoke, mint, grapefruit, and nutmeg on the palate. $189; available online and from select retailers. morriswhisky.com
Boxed up Boxed wine masters Gonzo Vino have unveiled a 2023 line of vintage releases featuring 13 tipples. White, Rosé, skin-contact, and red wines have all been packaged in the brand’s sustainable packaging that keeps wine fresh for six to eight weeks after opening. Highlights include chillable red Splishy Splashy crafted from Tinta Barocca grown in the Riverland along with the Crystal Healing skin-contact Riesling; the Throw Shade Rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Shadows in the Polygon chilled Grenache. $66 per 3L box. gonzovino.com
Citrus punch Smirnoff has welcomed a new range to its portfolio in the form of Smirnoff Sodas. The collection includes Yuzu Citrus Burst and Pink Grapefruit Crush hard sodas that sit at 6 per cent ABV alongside three soda products with an ABV of 3.5 per cent (Lime & Lemon; Pineapple & Lime; and Peach & Lime), which are all low-calorie. The hard sodas are $26 for a four-pack and the sodas are $24 for a four-pack; available at liquor stores nationally.
12 | Hospitality
An absolute delight
Taste of NZ
Byron Bay’s The Smoking Camel has teamed up with Brookie’s
The Mumm Central Otago Blanc de Noirs is crafted from
Gin to launch a Turkish Delight gin. The tipple is inspired by
hand-picked Pinot Noir grapes grown in the renowned
Middle Eastern flavours, with the gin infused with rose, orange
wine region located in New Zealand's South Island.
blossom, Meyer lemon, white aspen, and native raspberry.
The wine is produced using the méthode traditionnelle
The Smoking Camel is serving the spirit in its signature
process and has a fruit-forward profile with lingering
cocktail aptly named the Turkish Delight that combines the
notes of citrus and nougat. It’s the second product the
gin with pomegranate, cranberry, and lime. $74.99; available
Champagne house has produced from New Zealand fruit
from The Smoking Camel, Cape Byron Distillery, or online.
as part of the Terroirs Collection. $60 from select fine
capebyrondistillery.com
wine retailers. mumm.com/en-au
Celebrated Champagne house G.H. Mumm has turned to the country of the long white cloud for its latest release.
®
DRINKS // Japanese Slipper
Green illusion The Japanese Slipper is a step forward for the new wave of extra cocktails. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Jason Loucas and Tom Ferguson for Jacksons on George
THE WORLD OF classic cocktails is led by founding members the Negroni, the Martini, and the Old Fashioned. Australia’s
contribution to the mix? the Japanese Slipper. Invented in the
’80s — otherwise known as one of the sweetest and most-chaotic eras of cocktail making — the Slipper never quite took off as
much as its colourful counterpart the Cosmopolitan, but things
are looking up for the melon-centric drink, which slots right into the ‘loosen-up’ mentality of today’s drinkers.
Hospitality speaks to Claudia Morgan from Double Deuce
Lounge and Sam Kirk from Jacksons on George in Sydney about
their take on the drink, spin-offs, and why they think people will be going green in the very near future.
Back in 1984, French native Jean-Paul Bourguignon was working as a bartender at Mietta’s in Melbourne. A sales rep handed him a bottle of Midori and he got to work, mixing the melon liqueur with just two other elements: Cointreau and fresh lemon juice. The name of the drink was inspired by a book he was reading to learn English, which depicted a Japanese woman and her
slippers, with the word slipper becoming a new addition to his vocabulary and cocktail history. 14 | Hospitality
DRINKS // Japanese Slipper
“It never used to happen, but in the past year, people will name-call it.” – Claudia Morgan
While the drink was popular across
The Japanese Slipper is as straightforward
at Melbourne’s Above Board a few years
resonated with people as much as other
Midori, lemon juice, and Cointreau. The
Hayden [Lambert, owner] about it, and
Australia during the ’80s, it never quite
staples, which could be attributed to its
bright green hue or the polarity of drinks that don’t shy away from sugar.
Midori, however, is a liqueur most
people are familiar with whether it was
one of their earliest drinks or a staple in
their parent’s liquor cabinets — as was the case for Jacksons on George Bar Manager Sam Kirk. “My parents would pull out
all the random liquor bottles when we
as cocktails get, comprising equal parts
drink is shaken with ice and strained into
a chilled coupe with a maraschino cherry. “You can bash them out as fast as you
can,” says Kirk. “We tried a few different
options, but the original reflects the era we
The discovery of the cocktail was also
part of Claudia Morgan’s early bar career
when the Double Deuce Lounge manager began learning about classic cocktails. “I first came across it when I started
The classic is not officially on the menu
have begun to flow in over the past few Midori’s recent addition to the backbar after requests from the team. “It never
and more for things like a Cosmo or a
Piña Colada, which is what we’ve always embraced here.”
resulted in less sugar and the integration of natural melon flavourings from Japanese
melon, muskmelon, and Yubari melon. “The flavour is on point and it’s lighter and lesssweet than you think it will be,” says Kirk.
see guests sip on the rainbow. But the
who are excited to see it and they are usually well ahead of the trends.”
Along with requests for the original,
done a Japanese Slipper Collins using a
seeing people go for less-serious cocktails
means to cater to the modern palate, which
have a lot of hospitality people come in
says. “But there’s been a movement where Midori has become more popular. We’re
version on the market today. The recipe
The revival of the Japanese Slipper signals
people will name-call it,” she says. “We
Double Deuce has run its share of spin-off
retro cocktails have made a comeback and
It’s important to note the Midori you
used to happen, but in the past year,
bartending in 2012 and it was considered a bit of a daggy drink at the time,” she
and Midori.”
was changed back in 2012 by Suntory as a
I went with the classic ratio.”
months, which is fortunate timing given
Japanese Slipper.”
York also do a highball with lime vodka
like when they try it for the first time — so
“When I started working in cocktail bars, that used Midori as a base and it was the
delicious’,” he says. “Katana Kitten in New
may have last tried is not the same as the
would remember and your mates would
at Double Deuce, but Morgan says orders
I looked into the most famous cocktail
he was like, ‘Honestly, why not? It’s
are pushing at the bar — drinks your mum
had relatives over — I think that was my first experience with Midori,” he says.
ago. “I was really surprised, and I asked
cocktails inspired by the Slipper. “We’ve
Japanese melon liqueur and fresh melon as well as a frozen Glass Slipper as a special,” says Morgan. “When people read melon,
especially during summer, they order it.”
Kirk has also come across various riffs,
recalling a Midori cocktail on the menu
an incoming roster of cocktails that will
bigger picture presents an opportunity for bartenders to re-educate the public and
encourage them to give these drinks another
chance. “Everyone has memories of Midori,” says Kirk. “It was viewed as a spirit that was too sweet and fruity, but using it correctly to create a well-made drink is something people are open to. We went through a
serious two years of cocktails where drinks were pushed towards this chef mentality
of being artistic and forward-thinking, but drinkers are ready to have fun now.” ■
November 2023 | 15
PROFILE // Matti Fallon
Matti Fallon The Mornington Peninsula is the home base of the chef’s new naturalist-style cooking concept Colt Dining. WORDS Amy Northcott
ANY CHEF, RESTAURATEUR, or operator would agree opening a venue is one of the most
challenging yet exciting times in an individual’s career. There are a million things to do before the
doors swing open, and fortunately for Hospitality, chef Matti Fallon added an interview to his to-do list two weeks out from opening his new venue Colt Dining.
16 | Hospitality
PROFILE // Matti Fallon
The New Zealand-born chef
a new perspective on the
old daughter. He later joined
in Victoria’s Mornington
ever-changing menu of Kiwi
move that would culminate
chose to launch Colt Dining
Peninsula where he grew up and began his career in the
industry at the Portsea Hotel in Port Phillip Bay. “I started off
as a dishwasher and fell in love with it from day one,” he says.
Fallon worked across front and
back of house before he moved to Melbourne to further his cheffing career.
His first big role was opening
Ponyfish Island in Southbank before he joined Longrain
and then Mamasita. He tried his hand at pop-ups before
taking some time off, but was soon drawn back to service
pastry. Princes Pies served an essentials alongside some more creative flavour combinations. “We served a few Kiwi classics like mince and cheese, steak
and cheese, and a Shepherd’s pie,” says Fallon. “I had a
couple of other chefs and
friends of mine jump in the
kitchen and we got creative.”
Slow-cooked lamb with goat’s cheese and truffle was one
of the bestsellers. “From the
moment we opened at about
11am, we’d have a line out the door every day until we ran out of pies.”
to lead the team at Du Nord
Fallon then joined Broadsheet
with it [the cuisine] straight
retro Chinese takeaway eatery
Kitchen. “I just fell in love
away,” says the chef. “I grew up on a property with fruit
trees and veggie patches, and have always been into fishing and hunting, so [new-Nordic
cuisine] tied into the naturalist side of cooking I was into.” After Du Nord Kitchen,
Fallon worked at the one-
hatted Huxtable on Smith Street before opening his
CBD pie shop Princes Pies. The move came from the
desire to get out of a service
in the restaurant securing its
first hat. “I was lucky enough to get them a hat, which was
quite the achievement coming back after being off for so
long with surgery,” he says. Fallon worked with the St
Elmo team to transform the former Spanish, tapas-style
offering into something more aligned with his own style of
cooking. “I said, ‘Can we take
it in a different direction?’, and they were more than happy to do it and we ended up doing
— for lack of a better term — contemporary Australian.”
But when Fallon learned
Kitchen as the resident chef of
his wife was pregnant with
Saint Crispin. The plan was
to the Mornington Peninsula
to expand the concept into a
permanent venue, but Fallon
was diagnosed with a serious illness. “I had AVMs which is
arteriovenous malformation —
twins, they decided to move to be closer to family. He
began cooking at Rare Hare
before the idea of Colt Dining was born.
it’s something you usually find
Fallon’s culinary direction
he explains. “Everything came
surrounds. “I would say it’s
out you’ve got in the morgue,” to a screaming halt, and I had three major brain surgeries. I
had to put everything on hiatus for a while.”
The recovery process was
environment and was
about a year-and-a-half, with
Zealand that gave the chef
with his wife and three-month-
inspired by a trip to New
St Elmo after his surgeries, a
Fallon relocating to Byron Bay
at Colt Dining is led by his
a nature-forward, produceforward style of cooking,”
the chef explains. “We’ve let
nature decide for us and then
come up with the recipes from there according to what’s in
abundance and what’s going
out of season.” In line with the November 2023 | 17
PROFILE // Matti Fallon
focus, Colt Dining prioritises locality, fermenting in-house and sourcing beach herbs from the
coast. It’s also a family business, with seafood
supplied by Fallon’s brother Andrew who has a commercial fishing licence, and foraged herbs
and fruit sourced from his parent’s property in nearby Langwarrin.
Naturally, Colt Dining’s offering will move
While signatures are off the menu, there are a
few plates Fallon and his team are excited about. One of those being yabbie toast with native
pepper, Szechuan-style dipping sauce, and dried
bonito. “It’s almost like the prawn toast you’d get at a takeaway Chinese shop,” he says. “You still
get the fishy, earthy, natural flavour from it and a DJ booth and
Peninsula
a vinyl player
then you’ve got native pepper and the Szechuan
expect a
yabbie toast
complimentary
and deep-
snack while
fried oysters
ordering
like a pasta extruder and makes what Fallon
describes as a “30cm-long Cheeto” for guests to snack on while ordering. “It’s super fun and is one of those things that hits the table as soon
as you get here, so you can have a snack while
you look at the drinks menu,” he explains. The
plan is to make different flavours, with the first being truffle and a saltbush and vinegar combo to follow.
The bar team is led by Zac Abbot who is
fermented chilli and caviar as a tongue-in-
creations [a rhubarb and home-made lemon curd
of ordering oysters and it being super fancy,” serving up
machine’. According to the chef, the gadget is
working very closely with Fallon and the kitchen.
Fallon names deep-fried oysters with
dozen oysters. “It’s trying to demystify the idea Guests can
and smoked, slow-cooked brisket. Something
to give it more bite.”
cheek take on the “fanciness” around ordering a
Fallon is
– Matti Fallon
Colt Dining is also equipped with? A ‘Cheeto
what we’re all about.”
Mornington
what’s going out of season.”
and we’re not holding ourselves hostage to the
thing. We’ll adapt, create, and collaborate as it’s
The venue has
there with what’s in abundance and
flames — think grilled shishito peppers, lamb,
idea of signature dishes,” he says. “It’s not our
in Victoria’s
then come up with the recipes from
with the seasons, which is something Fallon is
very eager about. “Everything will change a lot
Colt Dining is
“ We’ve let nature decide for us and
he laughs. The dish is also a display of Fallon’s commitment to low-waste cooking due to the
“The bar is doing a lot of molecular-esque
Gimlet plus a French oak-aged Sazerac] and is also doing fermenting on-site,” says the chef.
“There’s a lot of we’ll be working on together including some food and drink pairings.”
Colt Dining also ties in Fallon’s other love:
oysters being deep-fried and not needing to be as
music. “We’ve got a little DJ booth and we’ve got
in Byron Bay, I watched people throw out oysters
he says. “My business partners all owned a
fresh as they are when served raw. “When I was daily and I was like, ‘Why are we doing this?’.
It’s one of those products that just doesn’t last
long unless you use them quickly. People don’t
more vinyl coming — I’ve got a big collection,”
bunch of live music venues as well, so it’s all our passions in one place.”
understand the impact it has on small farmers.”
By the time this story is printed, Colt Dining
which means plenty of produce cooked over
For Fallon, opening his own venue in the area
Colt Dining is equipped with an open fire,
will be one month old and finding its groove.
he grew up in is a full-circle moment. “It feels amazing to be here,” he says. “It’s great to be
back around people who I’ve known forever, and
everyone’s come on board collectively and helped in some way.”
Fallon is hopeful Colt Dining will fill the hole
of casual, yet refined dining in the area as both a spot to enjoy a special-occasion meal at or spend an afternoon grazing away on snacks
and cocktails. No matter the reason, the chef’s approach is sure to catch the attention of both locals and tourists alike. ■
18 18 || Hospitality Hospitality
Natural & affordable vanilla flavour
Feeling the pinch? Queen Professional is here to help with a new flavour solution. Our Bakers Blend Vanilla Natural Flavour and Paste is an affordable alternative to pure vanilla. Proudly manufactured in Brisbane using natural flavours, Bakers Blend has a creamy, French-inspired vanilla flavour profile. If you’re looking to improve your menu profitability, while still delivering outstanding flavour, choose Bakers Blend.
Available in: 500mL, 5L & 20L
600g & 10kg
GLUTEN FREE
VEGAN SUITABLE
NATURAL FLAVOURS
NO ARTIFICIAL COLOURS
For more amazing ingredient ideas contact us AUS 1800 647 486 queenprofessional.com.au
ALCOHOL FREE
ADVERTORIAL // RSN Australia
It’s all about
THE GLASS Discover how glassware can elevate the customer drinking experience.
20 | Hospitality
ADVERTORIAL // RSN Australia
A HIGH-QUALITY AND diverse drinks offering
has long been an integral aspect of the hospitality experience. Just as guests have become more
discerning about what they eat, they are equally
as mindful about what they drink — and the glass it’s served in. The notion is of particular relevance to wine, with lists growing to showcase emerging producers and varieties beyond the norm. RSN Australia Managing Director Mark
Baulderstone says the shift is widespread, with
venues across the country paying more attention to wine offerings. “Having a good wine list is
important,” he says. “Gone are the days where
you’d go to venues that have just ‘red wine’ and ‘white wine’.”
variety. “We’re talking to venues who were using
to the savviness of the modern consumer, who
with maybe one or two glasses that pretend to do
Baulderstone attributes the accelerated growth
has become more educated when it comes to the landscape. “People have become very passionate
about wine,” he says. “For example, they will tell you if they love or hate Chardonnay.”
what we would classify as standardised glassware, every drink,” he says. “The reality is consumers don’t drink that way and it’s not what they’re looking for.”
Selecting varietal-specific glassware ensures
A wide-ranging wine list has now become the
wines are served in an optimal manner that
while some venues have an in-house sommelier,
“Consumers love the variance between all the
standard, with customers expecting options. And temperature-controlled storage, or decant tableside, the most impactful and convenient way
to demonstrate a high-quality wine offering is through glassware.
At RSN Australia, the idea of quality wine service
conveys the full profile of the wine to the consumer. different varieties that exist which means the only way to match this is to have the right glass,” he
says. “It’s about matching the grape variety to the glass to enhance the experience.”
The first step of building your glassware range is
is at the core of its brands RIEDEL, SPIEGELAU,
to review your wine offering. “Is it at the price point
have one good glass of wine, we want it to be the
of wine $200 and above or is it more like $50
and NACHTMANN. “If your consumer is going to
best glass of wine,” says Baulderstone. “We want to match the glass to the variety itself to elevate that
experience. That’s what we’re looking for and that’s what we aim to do.”
While some venues opt for a one-size-fits-
all solution when it comes to wine glasses,
Baulderstone suggests turning the focus back to the
you want to target, are you only aiming at bottles and above?” says Baulderstone. He also suggests thinking about the type of consumer your venue hosts as well as the style of service and food the venue offers.
RSN Australia’s three brands RIEDEL,
SPIEGELAU, and NACHTMANN offer a vast
collection of ranges that suit everything from small to large wine listings. “We can customise it and tailor it for you,” says Baulderstone. “We have
lots of different ranges, all made with different
manufacturing techniques and with a different feel and finesse in the hand.”
Baulderstone encourages operators to speak to
the RSN Australia team to tailor your glassware
offering today. “Depending on what you’re trying to achieve within your venue, we can give you different looks and aesthetics and therefore a
different application and product to suit,” he says. Investing in quality glassware will ensure
consumers have a top-notch wine drinking
experience each time they visit your venue. To view wholesale pricing for nearly 280 products, visit riedel.com/en-au/business ■
November 2023 | 21
Serving suggestion
Serving suggestion
Cooking Cream 2L
Thickened Cream 5L
• 18% fat • Heats quickly to high temperatures, without burning or splitting • Ideal viscosity for sautéing, reducing, pan-frying, baking, freezing and whipping
• 35% fat • Rich cream flavour • Suitable for halal, kosher and vegetarian customers • Gelatine free
Serving suggestion
Serving suggestion
Slices Range
Cheese Range
• High yield • Strong cheese flavour • High melting point • Packed perfectly for convenience and efficiency
• Strong parmesan and mozzarella flavours • Natural White To Light Cream Colour • Shredded or shaved profiles For more information, please visit www.begafoodservice.com.au
FEATURE // Spanish tapas
The return of
tapas
FOR MANY DINERS, their first small plates dining experience was at a tapas restaurant. Like most cuisines, tapas peaked
before it mellowed out in popularity, but venues are beginning to re-emerge in a more modern form, offering dishes that
are reflective of traditional Spanish cuisine. To find out more
about the Spanish tapas offering of today, Hospitality speaks to Iberica’s Joaquin Saez and Beso’s Ana Cortes Garcia.
The cuisine that put the small plate on the map has a new lease of life.
When Joaquin Saez arrived in Australia 10 years ago, the tapas
WORDS Amy Northcott
scene suddenly just died as there was no demand for it,” says
scene was going through a rough patch. “The Spanish dining
the chef. “There was a lack of care for the products and a lack of
variety of dishes as well — it got a little bit boring. I think it was considered as a basic option and there was a lot of fried stuff like garlic prawns and croquettes.”
24 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Spanish tapas
“Spanish restaurants are emerging again, but on another level.” – Joaquin Saez
November 2023 | 25
FEATURE // Spanish tapas
A chat with Alex Cameron, GM of Sydney’s Franca and Parlar, a few
years ago inspired Saez to introduce Australians to a more authentic version of Spanish tapas. “Alex and I were talking about how
Spanish cuisine is not what the Australian public thinks it is,” says the chef. “Spanish cuisine is much more than that.”
Fast forward to 2023 and the chef opened Iberica in Sydney’s
Bondi Beach, which serves plates stirred by traditional Spanish offerings with a strong focus on variety and quality. “Spanish
restaurants are emerging again, but on another level,” says the
chef. He lists other venues such as Bar La Salut, Bar Louise, and Parlar as examples of restaurants serving a similar style of food.
“There is the demand for it now, it’s just a matter of bringing it in the right way.”
Ibercia’s menu has been co-designed by Saez and Executive Chef
Ivan Sanchez who has 15 years’ experience in Spanish cuisine,
joining the venue after time at Porteño and Bodega. Saez says the
Iberian ham, guindilla peppers, and pickled vegetables and pulpo
grillado (grilled octopus) with smoked potato cream and paprika.
Iberica offering is rooted in the flavours and ingredients of Spain
When it comes to drinks pairings, there’s plenty of options beyond
bit more on the Balearic Islands, so on the coast of Barcelona,
Spanish beers including Damm’s Inedit which is a collaboration
as well as the greater Mediterranean. “We want to focus a little like Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and those regions,” he explains.
Saez brands the food at Iberica as Spanish-Mediterranean, which sees seafood championed across the menu in favour of red meat and poultry.
Guests can expect to find matrimonio anchoa y boquerón on
the menu, a common dish in Spain, particularly in the Balearic
sangria. The beverage list features a selection of traditional
with El Bulli’s Ferran Adria. But a riff on sangria has remained
popular among guests. “A lot of people will go with the tinto de
verano which is kind of like sangria,” he explains. “We do it with
Tempranillo, Cognac, a bit of triple sec, cranberry soda, and lemon — it’s delish.”
But if he had to choose, Saez believes Spanish wines are the
Islands. “Matrimonio translates to marriage, and it’s a marriage
ideal pairing and something he hopes more Australian diners will
boquerón,” says Saez. The snack sees the two anchovies served
Australia, so are Spanish wines,” says the chef. Iberica’s wine list
between the anchovy and another type of anchovy called
on toast with sobrasada, tomato, and a little bit of thyme. Other favourites include the venue’s namesake jamon Iberico with
explore. “In the same way Spanish cuisine is a little underrated in is made up of around 70–80 per cent Spanish wines from various regions including the Canary Islands and Majorca.
Over in Melbourne, Spanish-born chef Ana Cortes Garcia has recently opened contemporary eatery Beso on Flinders Lane.
Beso’s cuisine is tagged as ‘Spanish reimagined’ and fuses Garcia’s extensive knowledge of her motherland cuisine with subtle,
unique influences from her time spent working across venues such as Lee Ho Fook.
Garcia agrees tapas has evolved over time, but more so in terms
of its influence. “It is undeniable the word ‘tapas’ has spread across many different cuisines and the concept is no longer solely owned by Spanish restaurants,” she says. “Over the last three to four
years, the number of new businesses that have implemented the concept has increased drastically.”
When it comes to the food itself, Garcia sees the modern-day
tapas offering as a blend of traditional flavours and dishes with experimental takes peppered in. “Generally speaking, when I
think about a tapas offering, I think about variety — OG classics combined with new creations,” she says. “Tapas is the perfect concept for implementing a combination of traditional and modern creations to a menu.”
Beso’s menu reflects an old-meets-new approach but is strongly
derived from food found in the Spanish region of Andalusia. An
example is the popular Andalusian tapas dish berenjenas fritas con miel de caña. “[It’s] thin slices of eggplant coated with a mix of 26 | Hospitality
COMMERCIAL ICE MAKERS | REFRIGERATION
D UR A B L E
R EL I A B L E
AUTHENTIC
hoshizaki.com.au
FEATURE // Spanish tapas
“Tapas is the perfect concept for implementing a combination of traditional and modern creations.” – Ana Cortes Garcia plain flour and chickpea flour that is deep-fried
know is sitting at a round table with a bunch
a pinch of flaked salt.”
conversation, and feeling relaxed in a warm
until crispy and drizzled with date molasses and Another example is the rabo de toro a la
Cordobesa oxtail dumplings with parmentier and
and when the meat is melting, we mix it with
are booking tapas-style meals for celebrations
dumplings.” The menu also includes a pork jowl chicharrón dish with yuzu togarashi as well as a recently
is rooted in
opened in
flavours from
Sydney’s Bondi
Andalusia
Beach
cured meats and cheese section: think 48-month jamon Iberico Joselito (ham), lomo (pork loin), sobrasada (Spanish sausage), and fuet anis
believes tapas is a chance
mainly
for chefs to
features
show their
Spanish wines
personalities
casual dining concept where they finish work
and stop by their local to have a couple of tapas before dinner or drinks.”
cuisine, and the format shows no signs of fading
popular choice, which teams lager with a splash of soda. She also notes the tinto de verano as
dining has now been adapted by almost every in popularity. “It’s fun food you can grab with
your fingers and I think it’s more like a lifestyle, so I don’t think that’ll change anytime soon,” says Saez.
For Garcia, tapas is at the very beginning
another option, but with an addition. “Red
of its resurgence. “I honestly think it hasn’t
and if you add a slice of orange and a Spanish-
raciones, and pintxos are a very fun way of
wine with lemonade is called a tinto de verano, style ‘free-pour splash’ of red vermut, it’s called a vargas.”
When it comes to dining, Garcia and Saez
believe tapas ticks all the boxes “Tapas as you 28 | Hospitality
love to see people embrace tapas as a more
When it comes to drinks, Garcia believes there
suggests. Cocktail-wise, Garcia says a Clara is a
wine list
or as a ‘different’ experience,” she says. “I would
The shared experience that comes with tapas
lager, Txakoli, Macabeo, or Tempranillo,” she
Iberica’s
see it mostly as a special occasion where people
(fennel and pork salami).
should be many. “Fino or Oloroso Sherry wine,
Garcia
Garcia thinks of tapas as a formal dining
experience but is hoping things will change. “I
the sauce and use it as a stuffing to make
Beso’s menu
space with genuine service,” says Saez.
Lanzhou chilli oil. “We make a very traditional
oxtail stew (originally from Cordoba, Andalusia)
Iberica
of friends sharing everything, having a casual
reached its peak yet,” says the chef. “Tapas, eating, sharing, and socialising. Smaller sizes invite you to try more during the same meal and for chefs, it gives us the opportunity to
showcase our identities and style of cuisines in a broader way.” ■
PREMIUM QUALITY STOCKS, JUS & GLACE
Made in Australia, Bone Roasters products are 100% natural with no added salt, flavour enhancers or thickeners. Using real bones and the freshest ingredients, our products are cooked using a traditional open kettle method and simmered for up to 30 hours. Available in 2.5kg Frozen and 300mL /500mL Retail Ready sizes To order, contact your foodservice distributor To view the full range visit: www.edlyn.com.au/bone-roasters PROUD SPONSOR
An Edlyn Foods brand
Follow us @edlyn_foods
FEATURE // Best of the best
10 plates Standout dishes that need an intro to your dining roster. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
Porkfat’s Phuket tiger prawn curry Porkfat in Haymarket is hands-down making some of the best Thai food in the city in my
opinion. It’s another one of my most-visited eateries and I am slowly eating my way
through the menu — which is hard when I
must resist reordering the grilled pork jowl
with smoked chilli nam jim. Anyway, onto the curry, which is a yellow iteration per Phuket’s take. The Southern-style curry is made with
LIKE MANY OF you reading this, eating my way across Sydney (and
beyond) takes up a big part of the pie chart that is my life. A multi-course tasting menu and a steaming kimchi-jjigae are equally savoured in my
books, so I thought I’d share some of the most memorable plates I’ve been fortunate enough to come across this year — 10 to be exact. Mumu’s
abalone with concealed vermicelli noodles, Poetica’s oysters covered in
piping-hot ’ndjua, and Porkfat’s Phuket curry are a few of the plates you really ought to try (but best you don’t skip on the rest of the list).
30 | Hospitality
Makrut lime leaves, betel leaves, and a
generous amount of black pepper served with tiger prawns sourced from Queensland. The prawns are jumbo and the curry has a nice
undercurrent of heat that’s mellowed out by the jasmine rice. I’m probably about to hit my 10th meal at Porkfat soon and I really
appreciate the front-of-house team here, who gently make sure you don’t order too much.
The salt palace aka Palazzo Salato has been cranking since it
opened its doors earlier this year and is the largest venue from the Love Tilly Group. Having frequented its other Italo-leaning venues Fabbrica and Ragazzi, I was keen to see how the new
addition would fit into the group’s portfolio. The answer hit me as soon as I stepped foot into Palazzo on a Saturday for lunch — it was absolutely packed. The restaurant was offering a $65 lunch menu at the time and included a dish I hadn’t seen on a menu
before — ham with Colatura hot sauce. I’ve had my fair share of
cured meats but seeing ham solo was intriguing, and rightfully so. Shavings of ham are dressed in a hot sauce made with Colatura di Alici (an Italian aged fish sauce), garnished with chives, and
served with two thin slices of focaccia. Eat as is or turn it into a mini ham sandwich.
Bar Copains’ beef tongue skewer Every time I go to Bar Copains in Surry Hills (and there’s
been many), a beef tongue skewer or two is what I call an essential order. I have high hopes it will never leave the menu (along with the amaro crème caramel), but until then, it’s mandatory eating at the venue spearheaded
by Morgan McGlone and Nathan Sasi. Thinly sliced beef tongue is speared onto a metal skewer, cooked on the
grill, and teamed with salsa verde and horseradish. It’s a savoury hit that honestly reminds me a bit of the corned
beef you’d find on a Reuben (in the best way). The skewer
both melts in your mouth and has bite thanks to its craggly
edges courtesy of the grill; a great example of a pared-back approach.
Jingogae’s bibimbap Those who know me could easily name Korean as one
of my go-to cuisines. And while I will never turn down
KBBQ and a golden bowl of makgeolli, I can’t go past the no-frills mom-and-pop-style suburban eateries. Jingogae
is located in North Sydney and has been family run since its inception, with just two people working across the
kitchen and the floor. The menu is quite extensive, but
I’d recommend going straight to the traditional Korean
dishes page. Bibimbap is served in the traditional dolsot
stone bowl, with Jingogae modelling its version from the Jeollabuk-do province’s Jeonju iteration, with marinated
beef, seasoned vegetables (zucchini and enoki on my visit) kimchi, gochujang, and rice topped with a fried egg. The bowl arrives to the table with a crackling soundtrack — nourishing food at its best.
November 2023 | 31
FEATURE // Best of the best
Palazzo Salato’s ham
FEATURE // Best of the best
Gimlet’s half lobster I headed to Melbourne for just one night last July, which presented a conundrum — where to eat? Out of all the restaurants that
had opened since my last visit in 2018 (embarrassing, I know), Gimlet had to be it. After writing about the tableside tartare and interviewing bar whiz Cameron Parish on the gin fizz a
little while ago, I had high hopes for the Gimlet experience — something I usually try to avoid — but it delivered. The value
of Gimlet’s $150pp seasonal menu was obvious from the main: a half rock lobster roasted in saffron rice with rouille. The
crustacean was wheeled over to the table for a photo op before it was deconstructed by a member of the front of house team. The
saffron rice was memorably umami and punctuated with tomatoes that tasted highly seasonal, despite the fact it was winter. The
lobster was accompanied by fries and a house salad, also good teammates for the leftover rice.
What is a flambadou? is the question I asked myself when I saw it on the menu.
Poetica’s flambadou oysters What is a flambadou? is the question I asked myself when I saw it on the menu. Obviously, some type of flame was
involved, which made sense when Chef Connor Hartley-
Simpson demoed the process of covering oysters in molten fat from a metal cone that is a flambadou. A heated cone was filled with beef fat which flames before the fat was
drizzled over the oysters which each had a guindilla pepper and some ’nduja nestled inside. The process ultimately
cooks the oyster and caramelises the ’nduja, resulting in one of the more unique oyster offerings in Sydney.
Mumu’s grilled abalone Abalone is up there for me when it comes to seafood — it’s tender, slightly chewy, and reminiscent of a scallop (also
up there). So, when I went to Mumu for the first time for lunch, I had to try Head Chef Oliver Hua’s take on the
dish, who put together the menu with Merivale Executive Chef Dan Hong. Baby black lip abalone is served in its
shell which is filled with chilli, garlic, coriander, fish sauce, brown butter, and vermicelli. It’s a moreish bite with a
welcome funk from the fish sauce and also very reasonably priced at $12 a pop. A good starter for the rest of the Mumu experience.
32 | Hospitality
Elevate Your Food Safety Standards with Mun Quality Gloves!
Your Trusted Partner for Food Handling Key Features Superior protection against contamination Comfortable fit for extended use Versatile for various food preparation tasks Easy to put on and take off Quality you can trust, from kitchen to table
Get your hands in one today!
www.munglobal.com.au/haccp-certified-gloves
FEATURE // Best of the best
Bibim means
Keep an eye
mixed and bap
out for Clam
means rice
Bar’s sconces
Clam Bar’s spaghetti and clams I knew I was going to like Clam Bar when I spotted the entryway across the street. The name of
the restaurant is spelled out vertically down the side of each door — an impactful design choice. Poetica’s
Gimlet’s
oysters are
front-of-house
drizzled with
team breaks
flaming
down lobsters
beef fat
tableside
The crack team behind Sydney’s Pellegrino 2000 and Bistrot 916 have done it again with their
latest offering, taking over the former location of the Bridge Room and decking it out with vintage posters, leather banquette seating, and clam sconces fixed to the walls. Clam Bar’s namesake
spaghetti is coated in a sauce of butter, white wine, garlic, parsley, and a pinch of chilli that pools
in the Diamond clams and onto the bottom of the plate. Once you’re done with the spaghetti, beef fat potatoes or fries are the ideal dunking vessels to polish off the rest of the sauce.
Ursula’s egg sandwich An egg sandwich at Ursula’s? A very clever take on a
classic by Owner and Chef Phil Wood at the Paddington
restaurant. A generous glob of egg ‘salad’ is sandwiched between two wafer-thin circular discs and topped with
salmon roe that will fall to the plate as soon as you take a bite — but maybe not if you eat it in one go. Speaking of
bites, it is all things rich and decadent, with the popped roe punctuating the morsel’s creaminess in the best way. There is a fine line between innovating a menu and pleasing customers, and I really appreciate the way Wood has
evolved the menu at Ursula’s over the two years it’s been open — dining here is always a pleasure.
Xin Jiang Hand Made Noodle’s beef noodles Chatwood is one of my most-frequented eating suburbs in
my downtime (or any time) whether it’s ramen at Manpuku,
Malaysian food a la Amah, or in this case, handmade noodles. This upstairs eatery serves dishes from its namesake location in Xinjiang in northwest China, which means the menu is
full of handmade dumplings, cumin lamb skewers, and my rec — noodles. There’s a decent selection across soup and
dry applications, but I can’t go past the beef noodles which are doused in a spice mix of cumin, Sichuan peppercorns, and coriander seeds and covered in a sauce of chilli oil,
vinegar, Shaoxing wine, and soy. The dish is typically stir-fried with ginger, garlic, onion, and a shower of coriander and is something I could easily eat on a weekly basis. 34 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Funda
PRESS PLAY A new era of Korean dining arrives in Sydney via Funda. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
BACK IN AUGUST, a confidential invitation
arrived in my inbox to experience a modern Korean restaurant “with Y2K vibes”. My
curiosity was piqued with the mention of Y2K and cemented when I saw the chef
team: Jung-su Chang, Chris Kim, and Yuji
Shin who each have resumes studded with Michelin stars and hats.
Chang and Shin worked together at
Jungsik Seoul, which currently holds two
Michelin stars, and is renowned for cuisine that takes foundational Korean dishes such
as gimbap and evolves them into plates that are both familiar and cutting-edge. It’s long
been regarded as one of the best restaurants in the city, which has no doubt left an
imprint on how Chang and Shin work, think, and cook.
I speak to chef team Chang and Kim
about joining the new opening, developing the menu from abroad, and how they
hope to plate up dishes diners have never experienced before.
36 | Hospitality
nashi pear should be at the top of your list,
Firestone’s Jang Ho So is the owner
for scooping. The calamari with soy-pickled
in another country,” he says.
of Funda, with the restaurateur also
recruiting and relocating pastry chef Yuji Shin from Seoul, with former Sepia and
Tetsuya’s talent Chris Kim rounding out the team, which came together a few months before Funda launched to the public in August.
Chang began working on the menu from afar last September, and his experience
with European cuisine is as evident as the Korean influences. Head Chef Kim says
the style of food found at Funda may be
something unique for Sydney, but is very much the norm in Korea. “Most Korean
restaurants are modernised, and globally it’s [the cuisine] become more popular,”
he says. “It’s Korean flavours with modern techniques,” adds Chang.
While developing a menu from a
different country could be a challenge for
he says
It took around 10 months or so before
projecting the restaurant’s name and leads
which is plentiful, to say the least. There’s
you look — something I’ve yet to see in a Sydney restaurant, which typically sticks to a more pared-back aesthetic. If I had
to condense Funda into a few words, I’d
describe it as ‘fine dining meets karaoke’, and no doubt something different in a sector that can be a little serious.
Speaking of fine dining, Executive Chef
Jung-su Chang couldn’t be more suited
Funda’s dishes were inked on the menu, a lot to choose from, and a second visit
is likely warranted for fans of the style of
cooking. A fried seaweed roll stuffed with
comes with pros and cons, but Chang says fronting Funda was a one-off opportunity
he couldn’t turn down. “I was approached to join the restaurant last year and saw it
approach, with each of the four options featuring their own set of unique
dimensions. Yuja tea and coconut combine via a yuzu and perilla leaf granita with coconut sorbet and pineapple, while a local touch is spotted in the pav,
which sees yeast meringue teamed with
makgeolli ice cream and injeolmi rice cake. The foundational jujube is the hero in a cake served with butterscotch caramel, jujube mousse, and crispy kataif, with
Shin switching out the sorbet according to what’s in season.
openings each month, but Funda is
experiential the city has seen this year. Chang will soon open neighbouring restaurant Allta, a 15-seat Korean
omakase concept, and says the reception
at Funda so far has been encouraging. “It is challenging for us to try and present
flavours as Korean dishes aren’t popular at the moment,” he says, “but we want people to experience what we do.” ■
tteok (rice cakes) with sausages is also
part of the starters — but Funda’s take is accompanied by avocado purée and gochujang.
Grilled leek has been one of the most-
and Korean master soy sauce, which is
opening in another country no doubt
Desserts abide by the not-too-sweet
and the iconic street snack of skewered
Seoul and time cooking for French icon
a restaurant with Michelin stars to a new
soy-cured bluefin tuna.
a perilla leaf is served with yuzu kosho,
ordered plates and sees the vegetable
Pierre Gagnaire beforehand. Moving from
with cucumber, spring onions, and slices of
prawn and scallop mousse encased by
to the job. He relocated to Sydney after
working as the executive chef of Jungsik
dressed in mushroom sauce and served
easily one of the most innovative and
of what’s to come. Automatic glass doors
there’s colour and movement everywhere
bibim naengmyeon which sees cold noodles
Sydney. “It wasn’t that hard because I
Australian ingredients wasn’t too difficult,”
to an open kitchen surrounded by lights —
should also make the cut, alongside the
Sydney welcomes a number of new
already know Korean flavours and adding
open off Pitt Street to a neon tunnel
seaweed, celery, and seaweed crumble
some, Chang’s experience meant the dishes easily came together when he arrived in
The name Funda provides a good indicator
which comes with a bowl of pappadums
teamed with stracciatella, pistachio relish, made in-house. The soy-cured prawns with burrata have been equally as in-
demand, and while soy-cured proteins are commonplace in Korea, the addition of burrata is certainly not.
For Funda first-timers, the beef tartare
with chojang sauce, pine nut foam, and
November 2023 | 37
FEATURE // Funda
as my last chance to open a new restaurant
FEATURE // Long-term venues
TEST OF TIME
RUNNING A HOSPITALITY business comes with plenty
Hospitality chats with some of the country’s oldest venues to find out the secrets to their success.
ups and downs to cement themselves as foundational
WORDS Amy Northcott PHOTOGRAPHY Kitti Gould and Steven Woodburn for Bistro Moncur; Monica Styles for Neighbourhood Wine; and Melanie Desa for Oriental Teahouse
of challenges, particularly after the pandemic and in
the midst of a cost-of-living crisis. But there are many venues across the country that have survived myriad
establishments in the communities they operate within. But just how have they done it? Hospitality speaks
to Almay Jordaan from Neighbourhood Wine, Yanan Zhou from Oriental Teahouse, and Simon Tebbs and Tom Deadman from Bistro Moncur about how each
venue came to be, navigating challenges, and remaining current in an ever-changing dining landscape.
38 | Hospitality
has been at the heart of its
able to self-critique. “It is key
faithful to our core values of
says it all comes down to being to always look for areas to
improve and never be afraid
to completely change direction if you feel something is not
working anymore,” she says.
“The Melbourne hospo scene is a fairly dynamic one — being static is not an option.”
Neighbourhood Wine’s food
offering is rooted in dishes
Neighbourhood Wine opened in Melbourne’s Fitzroy
North just over 10 years ago and has become the go-to
watering hole for many. Almay Jordaan is the co-owner and chef behind the much-loved establishment, going on to
launch sibling venues Old Palm Liquor and Bahama Gold.
Jordaan and her team have
taken a wide approach to
keeping old and new patrons coming into Neighbourhood Wine from launching
new menu offerings and
partnerships to changing
service times, and focusing
being accessible and a place for everyone, while maintaining quality and value in our
offering,” she says. Nurturing
talent must also be prioritised. “Invest in training and good
HR systems as soon as feasibly possible — your team is everything.”
Neighbourhood Wine’s
clientele has always been
to reflect the strengths of the
in many different age groups.
team. “When we opened, I
Neighbourhood Wine
success. “We have remained
inspired by European cuisine,
but has evolved over the years
cooked every service and really lived my dream, changing the menu as often as I wanted and relying on my French
training to feature technically challenging items,” says
Jordaan. But as more chefs
varied, with the venue bringing “It was a particularly young
crowd when we first opened
but has spread out more evenly over time,” says Jordaan. “We
have always had a lot of loyal, local regulars, which is hugely important to us.”
Over the years, Jordaan has
joined the team, and Jordaan
watched the wine bar scene
a different position within the
launching at the start of the
had children, she moved into
business. “I’m more in the role
of culinary director and I work with the chefs heading up the
kitchen team to create a menu that shows their style but is true to the venue’s ethos.” Jordaan believes
commitment to the
Neighbourhood Wine brand
FEATURE // Long-term venues
on social media. But Jordaan
evolve, with Neighbourhood sector’s growth period. “When we opened, there was a
handful of fairly conventional wine bars in town,” she says. “We leaned into the lo-fi side
of things early as it was taking hold in Melbourne. So much
for all the people who said it was a passing fad...”
“It is key to always look for areas to improve and never be afraid to completely change direction if you feel something is not working anymore.” – Almay Jordaan
10
YEARS
November November2023 2023||39 39
FEATURE // Long-term venues
20 YEARS
Oriental Teahouse Oriental Teahouse first opened in 1993 in
Melbourne’s CBD as a Chinese teashop. The
venue went on to launch yum cha and is now celebrating its 20th anniversary.
According to Oriental Teahouse General
Manager Yanan Zhou, customers have been a vital part of the venue’s longevity and are of great importance to the team. “Our regulars supported us through Covid-19 and we are
so lucky,” she says. Customers also play a role in keeping the Oriental Teahouse team across what dishes are working and what’s not. “We
treat our customer feedback like data and find
trends and patterns within repetitive feedback.”
One of Zhou’s most memorable dining stories
is of two people who met at the South Yarra venue. “They were initially mistaken for a
couple, but they were strangers,” says the GM. “Several weeks later, they returned for their
official first date — evidently it went splendidly
— and as the years passed, they have continued
accumulative perspective when examining our
the family recently celebrated their daughter’s
downturn one week, we can [strive] to regain
to mark their anniversaries with us.” Zhou says 16th birthday at the venue, which was a full-circle moment for the team.
When it comes to challenges, Zhou says
working together is vital. “It’s hospitality! Staffing, inflation … we face different
challenges based on the current environment we are in,” she says. “We tackle obstacles by
discussing the hard facts as a team and using our different backgrounds and experiences to make decisions.” Paying attention to
numbers and data is also of great importance when it comes to navigating bumps in the
road. “Everyone has great ideas and different priorities, so we have to get everyone on the
numbers, we ensure that if we encounter a our momentum in the subsequent weeks.”
Zhou’s advice for venues looking to make
it long-term? The magic number. “The magic
investing in
Teahouse first
people — both
where we maximise our seating capacity
opened as a
staff and diners
teashop in 1993
— is vital
number resides in finding the optimal balance without overburdening our team and risking
customer complaints,” explains the GM. Zhou
says this is achieved by determining the number of tables a single team member can serve and
then deciding if more guests require more staff.
“Work out the magic number per site, stick to it,
Tebbs notes the
Jordaan
importance of
worked every
operations around it.”
marketing, public
service when
relations, and
she opened the
social media
bar
and build a working model and the restaurant’s Looking to the future, Oriental Teahouse
same page and anchor them with a common
hopes to hit the century mark. “Our goal is to
KPIs enables us to navigate the day-to-day
that we can pass through generations as a place
goal. Our reliance on monthly and quarterly fluctuations of the industry. By adopting an 40 | Hospitality
All venues agree Oriental
create a teahouse that can last over 100 years of continuity.”
Nearly 60 years in market, Hospitality magazine is a stalwart of the comprehensive stable of titles produced by Food and Beverage Media.
See the full range of our liquor and hospitality titles below.
AUSTRALIAN HOTELIER
HOSPITALITY MAGAZINE
NATIONAL LIQUOR NEWS
BEER & BREWER
HOSPITALITY BUSINESS
THE SHOUT NEW ZEALAND
WORLD OF WINE
SPICE MAGAZINE
Food & Beverage Media is a division of The Intermedia Group. For the best coverage of the food and drink sectors in Australia, subscribe to our titles at www.intermedia.com.au
FEATURE // Long-term venues
“We treasure every one of them [our regulars], they have kept us going for decades.” – Simon Tebbs
30 YEARS
Bistro Moncur Bistro Moncur has been a long-standing favourite for locals in
Sydney’s Woollahra. The French bistro opened its doors on 23
February 1993, with the restaurant celebrating 30 years of serving its signature bistro food made with local produce. “There are so
many [dishes] that have grown their own fan clubs over the years,”
says Restaurant Manager Simon Tebbs. “The problem is the menu is only so big and the list of must-have dishes has grown so vast that we must keep them in rotation to try and keep everyone happy!” Tom Deadman is the current head chef of Bistro Moncur and
admits the style of food hasn’t so much as changed as it has
evolved. “It’s just a case of finding great ingredients and never
stopping looking for the best,” he says. “We aim to keep it fairly
French inspired … and technology has afforded us more advanced techniques, but the basics have stayed the same.”
While French bistro cuisine has remained at the heart of Bistro
Moncur, each chef who has come through the kitchen has played
their own role in keeping the menu fresh. Tebbs says the approach
to them and make them feel comfortable and at home here,”
relevant is always on our minds, especially with so many great
people who want to be here. If they want to be here, so does
is vital for a long-term venue’s continued success. “Staying
eateries opening all the time,” he admits. “Competition can be
tough but it’s great to see the industry getting constant attention.”
he says. “What that means is that you generate a core team of the customer.”
Word-of-mouth advertising via regulars has played a key role
Tebbs attributes marketing as a means to build customer loyalty
in the restaurant’s longevity. “We treasure every one of them and
credible brand identity is incredibly powerful and takes a long
become part of the woodwork, and they tell a story about the
and keep guests coming back. “Establishing a meaningful and time,” he says. “A well-thought-out marketing strategy is also
essential … we allocate resources to PR, digital marketing, and
social media to guarantee that our messages are delivered to the
they have kept us going for decades,” says Tebbs. “They have
bistro. They create so many great memories for us and we help to create theirs and they are of immense importance.”
It’s clear that a multi-pronged approach is the recipe for success,
right audience at the right time.”
but people are head and shoulders above the numbers and even
of Bistro Moncur’s success with the average staff tenure sitting
a positive environment that people gravitate to and ultimately
Just like Jordaan and Zhou, Tebbs says people are at the core
between five and seven years. “We look after our team, we listen 42 | Hospitality
the food on the plate. A smooth-running, happy team creates become invested in supporting in the long run. ■
Compare multiple quotes
Protect your business instantly
Save time and money
SCAN TO COMPARE QUOTES
bizcover.com.au
1300 805 821
*Must be a Qantas Business Rewards member. Maximum of 10,000 Qantas Points earned per policy. Available to new BizCover policy purchase only and not available with any other offer. See Terms & Conditions at bizcover.com.au/qbr. The information provided is general only and should not be relied upon as advice. BizCover Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AFSL 501769) © 2023 BizCover. BC2517
EQUIPMENT // Skimmer
Skimmer Remove fat and scoop out food in a cinch with the utensil.
Long, non-slip handle for safe and easy use
Spider skimmers are commonly used in Southeast Asia
Known as jhara in Lifts food from soups,
India and is used
broths, water, and oils
to make fried foods and sweets
Sieve-like scoop or spoon with mesh basket
Size of mesh varies according to application Usually made from stainless steel, wire, or nylon
Mesh basket can be coneshaped or round Skims off foam or congealed food from cooking liquids
44 | Hospitality
Subscribe to the newsletter and follow us on socials to stay up to date on the latest news and trends within the hospitality industry. ht tp s
://
ww
w. ho sp ita
lit
ym ag a
zin e.c om
.au
/su bs
cr
ib e
/
http Follow us on ://w Facebook here ww .fac ebo ok.c om
us on httFollow p:// inst here Instagram agr am .c
om /ho spit alit ym aga z
Follow us on
/Ho
http ://w LinkedIn here ww. link edin .com /
ine
spit alit
com pan y/ho
spit alit
yM aga z
ine
www.hospitalitymagazine.com.au
y-m aga zi
ne
5 MINUTES WITH ... // Sushil Aryal
MY CHILDHOOD IN Nepal was full of celebration
and education on food — it was inspiring to say the
least. Nepal is renowned for its culture and food and there is something to celebrate almost every week.
My mum was the family chef, so I’d always be near
the kitchen pretending to help, but mostly just eating her delicious food.
I moved to Australia when I was 18 to study
engineering but found myself at Brown Sugar in Bondi. Working with Head Chef Neil Gottheiner
while I was a kitchenhand changed my perspective.
He believed in me and gave me the chance and boost of confidence I needed.
Like many aspiring chefs, my goal was to work
in a ‘top’ restaurant. Once I finished my culinary
training, I headed to Melbourne. I ate at Cumulus Inc. and loved it so much I applied for a job then
and there. I got it and left Sydney with one suitcase full of cookbooks and clothes. Cumulus Inc. has a
fantastic training program as well as a progression
plan for each staff member, which really helped my career development.
After that, I worked at Spice Temple, Vue de
Monde, and Brae which were all career highlights. I had the privilege of working with Shannon Bennett
while opening Jardin Tan. Brae taught me discipline and attention to detail as a chef. Dan Hunter
gave me a plate of his famous parsnip and apple dessert to enjoy after a busy service which I still vividly remember.
During 2017 I was lucky enough to travel to North
America, South America, Europe, and Asia. My food highlights included eating tacos in the streets of
Sushil Aryal The Nepalese chef on his time at some of Melbourne’s top eateries and what he has planned at Miss Pearl Bar + Dining.
Tulum; having escargot in the Napa Valley at Thomas Keller’s restaurant; enjoying an 18-course menu at
Central in Lima; and eating a baguette with a slab of cheese for breakfast in Paris.
Now, I am the head chef at Miss Pearl Bar +
Dining in Melbourne. The menu is inspired by
modern Asian cuisine, and we mostly use flavours
from Southeast Asia. Dishes I had during my travels across Thailand, Vietnam, and Japan form a big
part of the menu. The most popular is the crispy
fried eggplant, and I also enjoy making the kingfish sashimi, which is simple and delicious.
We’re planning to renovate the outdoor space at
Miss Pearl which will allow diners to enjoy the à la
carte menu during the balmy Melbourne summer, so I’m very keen to start creating new dishes for that. ■ 46 | Hospitality
TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER TOP PERFORMER With super, long-term performance matters. Hostplus’ Balanced (MySuper) option delivers top performance over 20 years.
Compare Hostplus
SuperRatings Accumulation Fund Crediting Rate Survey – SR50 Balanced (60-76) Index, July 2023. General advice only. Consider the relevant Hostplus PDS and TMD at hostplus.com.au, and your objectives, financial situation and needs, which have not been accounted for. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance. Issued by Host-Plus Pty Limited ABN 79 008 634 704, AFSL 244392 as trustee for the Hostplus Superannuation Fund (the Fund) ABN 68 657 495 890. HP2395
Culinaire offers distinct features and complete adaptability, making it a reliable choice for the entire Food Service industry. It's used in diverse settings, from stadiums to hotels, and can be tailored to specific needs.
SCAN TO SEE THE RANGE
www.stoddart.com.au info@stoddart.com.au
Heated Food Displays Refrigerated Cooking Dish Handling
