NO.757 SEPTEMBER 2019
KITCHEN GARDENS • HOSPO HOBBIES • AUSTRALIAN CHEESE PRODUCERS
CONTENTS // September
Contents SEPTEMBER 2019
22
28
24 Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS With allergies on the rise, kitchens need to take note. 10 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, products and more. 12 // PRODUCE Kohlrabi: the alien-esque vegetable that tastes as good as it looks. 14 // COLUMN Jared Merlino on the impact of Sydney’s lockout laws. 16 // BEST PRACTICE Buffet’s guide to launching a venue on social media.
4 | Hospitality
18 // BUSINESS PROFILE Club Colombia is serving food with a side of culture. 22 // DRINKS What you need to know about the rise of black coffee. 40 // BEHIND THE SCENES Latte art with The Grounds. 41 // EQUIPMENT The citrus press is at home in the bar and the kitchen. 42 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Luke Piccolo from Limone Dining.
Features 24 // KITCHEN GARDENS Three operators on the benefits of growing their own produce. 28 // HOSPO HOBBIES A chef and a front of house gun prove there’s more to life outside their jobs. 32 // CHEESE A local approach to cheese is the way forward. 36 // PASTRY Traditional pastry techniques with heart.
Public Apology from MAdE Establishment: In early 2017, following a change in ownership and management, MAdE Establishment conducted a review of its records and identified circumstances where it had failed to correctly pay many of its employees. MAdE Establishment self-reported this to the Fair Work Ombudsman (FWO) which subsequently commenced an investigation into Jimmy Grants and the MAdE Establishment group of companies, being the Hellenic Republic, Press Club and Gazi restaurants. Since first identifying the underpayment issues, the MAdE Establishment group has back-paid 515 current or former employees $7.83m.This amount comprised underpayments for the admitted contraventions listed below. In some cases, workers were incorrectly classified. Record-keeping laws relating to time records for some annualised salary employees were not adhered to, contributing to underpayments. The FWO also found underpayments of about $16,000 for 9 employees at two Jimmy Grants stores. Jimmy Grants (Emporium) and Jimmy Grants (Fitzroy) incorrectly classified some workers and for some employees the wrong award was applied, resulting in underpayments of base rates for ordinary hours and a range of penalty rates. MAdE Establishment has formally admitted to the FWO that contraventions relating to the following failures occurred and has entered into an Enforceable Undertaking (EU) with the FWO (available at www.fairwork.gov.au) committing to a number of measures to remedy the contraventions, rectify workplace practices and ensure future compliance: • failing to pay: minimum rates of pay, casual loadings, Saturday, Sunday, Public Holiday, early morning and evening penalty rates, overtime rates, split shift allowances, minimum hourly engagements, penalties for working through meal breaks and annual leave loadings; • failing to conduct annual reconciliations for those employees paid through an annual salary arrangement to ensure those employees had been properly remunerated for all accrued overtime and penalty rates; • failing to make and keep part time work agreements; and • failing to keep a record of start and finish times for employees on annualised salaries. The commitments made by MAdE Establishment in the EU include: • a contrition payment of $200,000 to the Commonwealth; • committing to workplace relations training for all staff with responsibility for human resources, recruitment, on-site management or payroll functions; • completing audits for a period of three years; • implementing systems and processes to monitor compliance at all times; • registering with the FWO ‘My account’ portal; and • a commitment from George Calombaris to promote compliance within the restaurant industry and to educate fellow industry leaders about the importance of complying with the Fair Work Act. MAdE Establishment expresses its sincere regret and apologises for the conduct that resulted in the contraventions. MAdE Establishment is committed to ensuring compliance with Commonwealth workplace laws and becoming a force for change in the industry. George Calombaris, founding shareholder (shareholder 2008-current, director 2008-2018) Radek Sali, Director of MAdE Establishment (director 20 December, 2016-current, shareholder 20 December, 2016 - current) Adam Gregory, Director of MAdE Establishment (director 26 April, 2017-current, shareholder 28 August, 2017 -current)
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
#HOSPLEADERS Christine Manfield at the 2019 Hospitality Leaders Summit. @hospitalitymagazine
Breaking the bubble HOSPITALITY IS AN all-consuming industry
Jared Merlino pens our column this month
where eating, breathing and sleeping
on the impact Sydney’s lockout laws have
food and booze is a badge of honour. And
had on venues and how he’s steered Bartolo,
while it’s great to be part of a passionate
Kitty Hawk, Lobo Plantation and Big Poppa’s
community, getting out of the bubble can
through the red tape. We also shine a light
be just as good. I talk to Momofuku Seiobo’s
on local producers who are creating cheeses
Kylie Javier Ashton about her side hustle as
that are just as good as those found in
a boxer and Subo head chef Mal Meiers
Europe and talk to the chefs who are putting
about his vocation for ceramics.
them on the map.
This issue, Madeline Woolway looks at
GREECE IN BALMAIN The weed pie is my pick at this newly opened restaurant in Balmain, spearheaded by chef Matina Spetsiotis. @annabellecloros
I hope you enjoy this issue.
the far-reaching impacts kitchen gardens can have on a venue and talks to Ho Jiak’s
Until next time,
Junda Khoo and Coda and Tonka’s Kay-Lene
Annabelle Cloros
Tan about the importance of preserving the
Editor
traditional pastry techniques they grew up
TONGA TIME Heilala vanilla beans drying under the Tongan sun. @madeline.woolway
Follow us
with such as kuih.
@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
ACTING CIRCULATIONS MANAGER Troy Brookes subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag
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6 | Hospitality
Serve them live sport and they will come
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IN FOCUS // Allergies
Food allergies With allergy rates on the rise, food-induced anaphylaxis is becoming increasingly common. WORDS Madeline Woolway
FOOD-INDUCED ANAPHYLAXIS HAS doubled in
specific to cooks and chefs. Along with advice on the
with the National Allergen Strategy to analyse the data
the past 10 years and fatalities
safest methods to handle,
from food-induced anaphylaxis
prepare, cook and store food
have increased 7 per cent each
to prevent food-related allergic
implemented by AEG Ogden
year according to a study
reactions, it also highlights
include training with suppliers,
A chef or cook not checking
published in The Journal of
the importance of effective
separating utensils, removing
ingredients in a garnish
Allergy and Clinical Immunology.
communication between the
tea towels, installing equipment
kitchen and other staff and
for making allergen-free meals
consumers with food allergies.
and sourcing plates that are
Using utensils across multiple
different sizes, weights and
food types, including knives,
A new online food training program for cooks and chefs
they received.
Common causes of food-related allergic reactions
Some of the strategies
aims to help decrease the rate
“It can be very difficult
of preventable deaths caused
to manage all the different
colours to help decrease the risk
by food anaphylaxis while
dietary requests that come
of mix-ups.
dining out.
through a large kitchen, and
tongs, spoons, etc
“This training program …
All About Allergens: The
often customers don’t have
will go a long way towards
next step for cooks and chefs
any concept of the type of
minimising the risk of food
was developed in conjunction
pressure cooks and chefs are
allergen cross-contamination by
products, e.g. mayonnaise,
with chefs and cooks with
under and make requests at the
spelling out, in simple terms, the
tomato sauce
experience in commercial
last minute,” says Martin Latter,
best way to reduce risk and help
kitchens. The free program is a
group director of Kitchens for
keep our customers safe,” says
follow up to the first All About
AEG Ogden.
Latter. “It provides resources
Allergens online food allergy
Latter and his team set up
and templates that can be used
training program, with the next
a special dietary kitchen in
in commercial kitchens to help
stage providing information
Brisbane and have been working
reduce the risk.” ■
8 | Hospitality
Not checking the ingredients label on pre-prepared
Suppliers changing ingredients without informing the kitchen staff
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, products and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Archie Rose’s Rye Malt Whisky arrives Archie Rose Distilling Co. has added Rye Malt Whisky to its core range. There are just 2071 first-batch bottles available, which can be purchased through ballot allocation, ticketed launch events, on the Archie Rose website or at the Rosebery bar. The team began with German malt but are now working with local New South Wales growers to revive heritage rye and barley strains. The team anticipates three additional releases of the whisky from now until 31 December 2019. $119 for 700ml at 45 per cent ABV. archierose.com.au
Coskun Uysal debuts book Quick Brown Fox Eatery opens in Pyrmont
Tulum Coskun Uysal $49.99; Melbourne Books
Quick Brown Fox Eatery has launched in
Turkish chef Coskun Uysal has penned
Pyrmont, with former Fat Duck chef Tomislav
his debut cookbook named after his
Martinovic consulting on the menu. Siblings
Melbourne restaurant, Tulum. Recipes
and co-owners Ben and Emily Calabro are
include scallops with corn, beef tongue
behind the café and wanted to run a venue
with fried green pepper yoghurt and
that offered classic dishes teamed with
burnt butter sauce and the classic
contemporary options. Kido Kwon has been
dessert walnut semolina. All recipes
appointed head chef, cooking up all-day
are accompanied by detailed notes
menu items including koshihikari rice congee
from the chef and photography.
with chilli fried egg, enoki mushrooms,
melbournebooks.com.au
maple-glazed bacon, grilled cabbage and chilli relish along with Ottoman eggs with Pioik focaccia, green chilli and dill yoghurt. quickbrownfoxeatery.com.au
Racines launches Lifestyle Brunch Sofitel City Centre Singapore has debuted a new brunch offering for diners who like to have it all. The brunch offers a buffet selection alongside two à la carte menus comprising everything from local favourites such as dim sum and chicken rice to premium dishes such as locally farmed frogs legs and Boston lobster ragout tortellini with coral oil. Free-flow beverage pairings are also available covering everything from juices and sodas to Champagne, cocktails, wine and local craft beers. If you’re heading to Singapore, make Racines your first stop. sofitel-singapore-citycentre.com
10 | Hospitality
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Flights & accommodation
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Celebrity masterclasses
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Apply now 1 Visit proudtobeachef.com & click apply now. 2 Prepare and upload your recipe*. 3 Complete your application by telling us about your passion and commitment to your culinary craft.
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PRODUCE // Kohlrabi
Leaves are green and waxy
Stalks are edible White is faster The sweetest variety of
to grow than the purple Body is
kohlrabi
bulbous and round
Kohlrabi The unusual-looking vegetable tastes just as good as it looks. WORDS Annabelle Cloros ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux
Origins
Flavour profile
at least 5cm in diameter. The whole plant
Kohlrabi derives from the German words
The flavour characteristics of kohlrabi
including the roots should be removed when
kohl (cabbage) and rabi (turnip) and is said
differ according to the variety, with some
harvesting. White varieties grow faster than
to originate in the 16th century in northern
compared to a sweeter, milder turnip and
the purple, which can take up to 10 weeks
Europe. The cool-climate vegetable is part of
others to cabbage or broccoli. The white
before they’re ready to harvest.
the Brassicaceae family and is prominent in
variety is sweeter than the purple, but both
countries including Germany, the US, Israel,
are crisp and crunchy. Chef Troy Rhoades-
Culinary applications
China and northern India.
Brown from Muse in the Hunter Valley says
The whole plant is edible, from the bulb
the texture is reminiscent of a daikon
to the stems and the leaves. The bulb is
or turnip.
encased by two layers which should be
Appearance The vegetable comes in green, white and
removed during preparation. Kohlrabi can be
purple varieties with the most common
Harvest
eaten raw and is commonly sliced for use in
including White Vienna, Purple Vienna and
Kohlrabi is a biennial plant best grown
salads. The leaves can be eaten as greens
Gigante. Kohlrabi is known for its bulbous
during the cooler season, which means
in the same way as kale or spinach and the
and swollen appearance which features
winter is the optimum time to produce
stems can be chopped up and added to
long stems with waxy green leaves that
in Australia. Adequate soil and moisture
stews. The flesh is often used in gratins or
grow out of the body. Bulbs are typically
is necessary to achieve the desired
roasted for a side dish. At Muse, the team
5-10cm in size and 150g in weight. Clusters
tenderness and flavour. Kohlrabi needs full
ferment kohlrabi with ginger, purée, roast,
of yellow flowers can also grow if the plant
sun with light shade. They grow above soil
steam and grill it. ■
is left to mature.
and are ready to harvest when they are
12 | Hospitality
COLUMN // Lockout laws
Second-chance
Sydney The lockout laws have had a huge impact on the hospitality industry — so where do we go from here? WORDS Jared Merlino
C
M
I DON’T THINK Sydney knows what it’s doing at this point. The way the city has
been run from a licensing and a policing perspective has been very restrictive. It’s
affected the amount of money people are
spending when they go out and how long they go out for.
The lockout laws have almost become
a tagline for any business that is failing;
everyone likes to use them as an excuse. We all know they’ve pulled $16 billion
out of the economy. But at the same time, I think there’s still a thriving hospitality
market in the city. We’ve got one of the best cocktail cultures in the world and some of the best bartenders.
People want diversity. They want to be
able to have a rum cocktail at 4pm at Lobo Plantation and have a negroni at 2am
at Big Poppa’s. The city is definitely still
to pay rent, pay staff and deal with the other operational costs.
with the DCP is Crown Street in Surry
The late-night trading development control
do automatic trading on development
plan (DCP) provisions are a great step
from the council, but the council has never
really been the problem. It’s more at a state level and a police level. There needs to be a more collaborative process between the
police, the regulatory bodies and operators. It used to be a case-by-case consultation,
They’ve tried to deal with a cultural problem with regulation and it hasn’t
a heavily regulated market.
need to keep consumers safe, but taking
to be able to do the most basic things. It took six months to get a primary service
authorisation for Bartolo. The amount of
time it takes to get approvals makes it hard 14 | Hospitality
to operate in. It’s an area they want to
increase foot traffic in; they want people to see it as a vibrant, neighbourhood
destination. It’s good the council is taking
steps with the DCP and DA, but unless the
state government, the police force and the liquor board come on side, the potential benefits won’t come to fruition.
I’d like to see a more mature consumer —
until we allow them the freedom to be able to
process would look at ways to hold bad
the storm, but even they’re struggling
because they’ve realised it’s a hard area
the problem.
now than ever. It’s just a matter of figuring
Good operators are able to weather
applications (DA) on the strip until 2am
people who are able to control their behaviour
now, blanket laws apply to everyone.
out how you can create a venue like that in
Hills, where Bartolo is. They’re going to
truly addressed
looking for those options. Poppa’s trades late into the night and it’s more popular
One of the areas they’ve addressed
A more thought-out collaborative
operators accountable. We all agree we
away their freedom isn’t really going to do that. They’ve tried to deal with a cultural
problem with regulation and it hasn’t truly addressed the problem. People are still going to drink and be violent if they’re violent people.
and be responsible. I don’t think we’ll see that make their own choices.
Put restrictions, punishments and
sanctions in play if operators break the law, but allow them to operate when they want. Allow them to trade later in the night and open during the day. Allow uninhibited
use of the footpath within reason. Allow us to open up so we can have more
cultural diversity, so we can thrive and
be an international city that offers great
experiences. Give people the opportunity and we’ll have a better city. ■
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
PASSION DRIVES INNOVATION It is passion and the sense of innovation that focused Stoddart to partner with American Range to develop the heavy duty modular cooking range exclusively designed for the Australian market. The American Range lineup, specifically designed from the ground up, is a heavy duty, commercial range of cooking equipment, built for the Australian Commercial Kitchen environment. The sleek, modular design allows for customisation for both front of house or back of house production applications.
BEST PRACTICE // Social media strategies
How to launch a venue on social media Don’t fancy yourself a social-savvy operator? Here’s a guide to becoming a pro. WORDS Sophie McComas IT CAN FEEL overwhelming to
lot of events or target customers
what’s coming and follow to keep
Experimenting with ferments in-
wade through every social media
under 25? A smart Snapchat
up. Incorporate social handles
house? Got a chef who speaks
option to prioritise what your
strategy could work. The next
in all communications to send
fluent French and Danish?
brand actually needs and what
most important channel is your
people to your channels prior to
Talk about it.
can wait. Should you invest in
email database, which is free
launching. This ensures there’s an
photography or video? Facebook
from the whims of the tech
established audience ready and
Consistency is key
or Instagram? Agency assistance
giants and offers a direct line to
waiting when you do open.
Now you have your vision, identity
or in-house help?
the people truly invested in what
If you’re feeling like it’s easier
you’re up to.
to set your phone alight and
and strategy — stick to it. Create
Invest in quality content
a monthly plan and schedule
If there’s one thing to prioritise,
posts at optimal engagement
Plan a visual identity and tone of voice
it’s professional, engaging
times (for food and beverage,
that’s fair. But nutting out a
photography of your menu.
that’s generally between 6pm
solid plan of attack for utilising
Just as you’ve carefully
Instagram is a visual platform,
and 9pm). At Buffet, we use
the communication channels
considered your location, team
so relying on sub-par imagery
Iconosquare for scheduling,
available has many advantages
and logo, it’s worth thinking
that doesn’t do your offering
planning and reporting. Better
— a successful strategy will cut
about how to present your venue
justice isn’t doing your venue
yet, engage people who know
through social media’s white
visually and tonally. These should
any favours. At Buffet, we shoot
what they’re doing so you can
noise and remind your audience
reflect your actual offering and
with most restaurant clients on
focus on the most important part
(and those who haven’t found
philosophy seamlessly. Is your
a quarterly basis, ensuring the
— the product. A good image of
you yet) what you do, and how
bar or restaurant moody and
images on their social channels
a bad dish is still a bad dish, no
well you do it. If the images,
slick? Your imagery and graphics
are up to date and reflective of
matter how you spin or shoot it. ■
words and messages you’re
should be, too. Is your service
the restaurant experience. If your
projecting into the world don’t
style warm and welcoming?
menu changes every day, ask a
Sophie McComas is co-founder
do your brand justice, you’re
The tone of voice in all your
staff member or chef to capture
and director of Buffet, a Sydney-
doing more harm than good, so
communications should mirror
specials as they are created.
based creative content studio
it pays to get it right even before
the same approach.
A short iPhone photography
working with the food, drink
throw it in the grease trap,
you launch.
workshop (we run them) can work
and travel industries on content
Set up your channels before you launch
wonders. Second, if your caption
strategy, photography, video,
is boring, repetitive or too sales-
copywriting and social media.
Before you send out a press
heavy, you’ll turn people off.
www.buffet.digital @buffet.digital
Each social channel offers
release to media (yes, press
Story first, sales second.
a different means of
releases are still useful and
communication as well as a
relevant), your Instagram and
Be authentic
different audience. Before you
Facebook pages should be
Capturing food and drink is
get started, figure out which
live with a profile image, your
important, but it’s imperative to
are worth your time. Every
website, contact info and a link
represent the venue experience.
brand should have a presence
to sign up to your database.
Atmosphere, people, prep,
on Instagram with a linked
There should also be some form
produce, interiors — all the minor
Facebook page in order to run
of content posted, whether it’s
details that make your space
boosted posts and ads. But if
imagery, video or graphics, so
unique — are exciting to an
you’re a pop-up or movable
when potential customers hear
unfamiliar eye and helps build
brand, you may also want to
about your venue and hunt down
your brand’s world. Sourcing
consider Twitter. Will you host a
your page, they get an idea of
your wasabi fresh from Tassie?
Identify the channels that work for you
16 | Hospitality
WELCOME TO THE AGE OF ALTERNATIVE
MEAT Enquire infoAU@lhf.net
BUSINESS PROFILE // Club Colombia
Club Colombia Diego Reyes came to Australia as a student to improve his English. He stayed to share Colombian culture through food and coffee. WORDS Madeline Woolway LIKE MANY COLOMBIANS, Diego Reyes
Reyes. When the business opened, Reyes
authentic Colombian cuisine, so we don’t
stay for six months while he improved his
Colombian food, too.
used to eat in Colombia; it reminds me of
originally moved to Australia with plans to English language skills. While completing
was surprised to hear people asking about
his Masters degree at the University of
Initially, Reyes capitalised on the interest
industry for employment. With university
such as arepas, but eventually saw an
Melbourne, he turned to the hospitality
qualifications in business administration
and economics under his belt, plus family ties to the Colombian coffee industry, it
made sense to open a café in Australia’s self-proclaimed coffee capital.
So, in November 2014, he launched
opportunity to do more. “People started
looking for a new experience. “It’s a
coming and coming and coming,” he says. “In the end, the shop was too small, so I thought, ‘We have to open something a little bit bigger’.”
“Something bigger” is Club Colombia, a
space, and what started as a small coffee
they’re different beasts with different
food and culture hub. “I opened up a
coffee shop because coffee is very familiar to me — my Grandfather was a farmer
at a coffee plantation in Colombia,” says 18 | Hospitality
The approach attracts two types of
consumers: Colombians looking for
restaurant with an extensive menu, alcohol
shop quickly developed into a Colombian
my family and traditions.”
by offering traditional Colombian dishes
Cento Mani, a casual café in central
Melbourne. The business outgrew the
do fusion,” says Reyes. “The food is what I
license and live Latin music. Although
menus and styles of service, both venues
have the same aim: to promote Colombian
memories of home and non-Colombians challenge because you must satisfy two
different audiences with the same product,” says Reyes. “The answer is authenticity.”
For Colombians, the menu — and the
restaurant’s fit out — are a ticket home.
For non-Colombians who’ve yet to try the country’s food, it’s a curiosity. “It really
is something different here in Australia,” says Reyes.
culture. They also share a common
Colombian cuisine is predominantly
remaining authentic. “The idea is to have
and Spanish influences.
challenge — offering innovative food while
defined by regionality, indigenous produce
new to our range CODE 1-659 8 SERVES | 115g
vegan mud cake
V
Mouth-watering muddy vegan chocolate cake topped with a chocolate rosette sprinkled with zingy freeze dried raspberries.
CODE 1-658 6 SERVES | 98g
banoffee tart
Square chocolate tart shell, filled with banana laced caramel, topped with fresh cream, banana chips, and chocolate drizzles. Hot chocolate and cheese
CODE 1-662 8 SERVES | 95g
orange & almond cake Persian inspired cake of orange & almond meal, drizzled with sweet white glaze, finished with a sprinkle of cranberries & pistachios.
GF DF
“We seek to explain how ingredients and recipes connect us with our land, our traditions and our memories.” – Diego Reyes
CODE 1-771 | 16 SERVES | 2.29kg
cookies & cream cheesecake Showcasing whole cookies in cold set cheesecake folded with cookie crumbs, covered with dark chocolate glaze dripping lusciously down the sides, finished with white chocolate curls and sweet white peaks.
priestleys-gourmet.com.au
BUSINESS PROFILE // Club Colombia
“I like the idea of being an ambassador for our culture.” – Diego Reyes
our loved ones. We want to explain how
ingredients and recipes connect us with our land, our traditions and our memories.”
Transitioning from one business to two has complicated things, but in some ways it’s
made life easier, too. While operating two
hospitality businesses comes with increased financial responsibility — more rent, more suppliers and more bank loans — there’s been an unforeseen advantage. “The
cashflow gives you the opportunity to have a team to help you,” says Reyes. “When I
had one business, I had to be an accountant, plumber, electrician, graphic designer,
publicist, waiter, manager and dishwasher.” The Colombian landscape is marked
by mountainous terrain and the nation is flanked by two oceans — the Pacific and the Atlantic. These features demarcate different regions, with each home to a
wide range of indigenous produce. Reyes
tries to offer something from every region at the restaurant.
From the Pacific comes encocado, a
currently on the menu. The traditional
devote extra energy to strategy and forward
with a typical Colombian sauce of tomato,
Colombian cuisine in Australia. Reyes
option uses dried beans, chorizo and bacon coriander and onion. It’s topped with a fried egg and comes with an arepa. To
cater for different dietaries, the venue also offers a chicken and lentil option and a vegetarian version.
The difference between the dishes made
fish fillet cooked in coconut sauce, while
by the farmers hundreds of years ago
plantain is local to the Atlantic. Inland,
down to freshness and presentation. “The
a prawn ceviche served with fried green in cities such as Medellin, where Reyes
was born, dishes including Bandeja Paisa,
which incorporates beans, rice and a range of land proteins, are typical.
Some dishes can be found across numerous
regions. Calentado, which means to ‘reheat’, is one of the most famous alongside Bajeda Paisa. Historically, farmers would cook for
the whole day and reheat it the day after to prevent food waste.
But that’s not the way it’s done at Club
Colombia, where three variations are 20 | Hospitality
The upshot is time to think. Reyes can
planning around promoting authentic
believes there’s a great opportunity because it’s not something many here are familiar
with. “The fact that not many people know about our culture makes [the process]
longer and more expensive in terms of
communications and publicity,” says Reyes.
and those made at Club Colombia comes
Successfully managing a café and a
farmers just wanted to feed themselves,”
courage to think big. The plan is to create a
says Reyes. “We want each dish to be an experience for the customer.”
Part of the experience is created through
interactions between staff and guests. Given
restaurant has also given Reyes the
consolidated concept that can be replicated
across Australia. It’ll be a concept that shows people Colombia has more to offer than dramatised stories about Pablo Escobar.
The Club Colombia team is beginning
the promotion of Colombian culture is part
to explore modern cuisine, using the
take the time to explain their traditions to
them for hundreds of years, while using
of Reyes’ business goals, he and his team
diners. “We talk about the ingredients and their cultivation in Colombia,” says Reyes. “We also tell them stories about how each dish takes us to our home, our family and
same ingredients their land has given
contemporary techniques. “I like the idea of being an ambassador for our culture,” says Reyes. “It’s something I want to keep doing.” ■
DRINKS // Coffee Single O’s batch taps
No foam-o
Batch, drip, pour over — microfoam-free coffee is on the rise and specialty cafés are making waves. WORDS Madeline Woolway AUSTRALIA IS AN espresso nation. When
brewed filter coffee via self-serve taps.
with them cappuccinos and lattes. Soon,
coffee, like a pour over or Aeropress,” says
version: the flat white. It now rivals the
cup at a time of filter is labour-intensive,
Italians arrived post-war, they brought Australian cafés invented their own
Hemsworth brothers as one of our most
popular cultural exports, with Australianstyle cafés proliferating in countries such
“It’s essentially the same as any filter
No matter the brand, most batch brewers
[so] we make it in a bigger vat and can
water over coffee. The technology allows
serve more of it.”
It’s the same thing as the pot coffee of
American diners, albeit made with more
black coffee left to languish.
to America, you’ll see exactly the same
When Coffea arabica made its way from
the forests of Ethiopia to Yemen and then
precision and better beans. “But if you go machines we use,” says Lindsay.
up into Turkey, it was brewed with water
Another Sydney institution, The Grounds,
coffee is often associated with cheap pot
methods for black coffee including espresso,
and taken black. Despite its history, black coffee — the kind poured in American
diners. But specialty cafés are trying to
also has a roster of different brewing
pour over, batch, cold drip and French press. “Each has a unique flavour profile and
change the dialogue.
presents coffees in different ways,” says
Single O is one of them. The Sydney
espresso is the most popular, but people
roaster offers a range of milk-free options at their flagship café in Surry Hills from
espresso to pour over, Aeropress and batch
Lindsay, which means more time for
serving customers. What it doesn’t mean is less attention to detail. In fact, the result is the opposite; filter coffee made with
well-roasted and correctly brewed beans
can reveal characteristics that are erased in milk-based espresso drinks.
“If you get the development of the coffee
right and make it as batch brew or filter
coffee, it’s a great way to taste the coffee,” says Lindsay.
are always keen to try new things (or old
used for, the Single O team sticks to a set of
things) and new ways of enjoying coffee.” Despite the number of options available
was installed in an effort to boost sales of
still opt for milk coffees. “But I have noticed
22 | Hospitality
baristas to ‘set and forget’, explains
While Lindsay doesn’t like to dictate what
— far more than that of milk-based coffees
filter coffee. The new system offers batch-
perform the same task — they pour hot
head roaster Nick Ferguson. “Obviously,
filter. In April, the venue was remodelled and a world-first batch-brew prototype
processing and brew methods,” he says.
head of retail Angus Lindsay. “Making one
as the US. Here, microfoam continues to
reign supreme, as it has for 50 years, with
and people asking about different origins,
purposes beans should or shouldn’t be
guidelines. The batch taps aim to celebrate
the diversity of single-origin specialty coffees. “We roast our filter coffee a certain way so
— Ferguson estimates 90 per cent of people
you can really taste differences between each
a trend for more black coffee over the years
Kenyan and a Colombian and they all taste
one,” says Lindsay. “We’ll have an Ethiopian,
Sourcing premium coffees comes at
system and taste each one. There are
eschewing milk are offset — both Single
things all the time can go over to our tap pretty big differences in taste.”
Ferguson agrees high-quality coffee
can be enjoyed in a number of ways,
a cost, meaning any savings made by
O and The Grounds charge the same, if not more for their filter coffees as they do milk-based espressos.
“Milk coffees are generally made
but some are great roasted and brewed
with our house blend,” says Ferguson.
are more developed than filters for
according to their cup quality, but they
using specific methods. “Espresso roasts example,” he says. “Espresso turns the volume up on everything, so it’s good to maximise the sweetness, push the
roast, emphasise body, juiciness and the like while not having too much acidity.
Whereas filter brew methods are suited
“These coffees are also solid coffees paid can be regionals. For black [coffees],
we source high-grade, single-origin and
small-lot coffees and pay a high price for them. However, in our case, we adjust the price accordingly.”
to lighter roasts. The emphasis being on
The impact of the batch taps is already
fruits and sparkling acidity.”
serving batch brew for four years. “Before
making the coffees ‘pop’ [with] bright
Over a number of years, The Grounds
has established relationships with
growers and traders from countries
including Ethiopia, Rwanda, Burundi, Panama, Colombia and Brazil and
apparent at Single O, which has been we got the tap system going, [batch]
was probably 5 per cent of total coffee
volume,” says Lindsay. “With the taps, it’s probably more like 15 per cent.”
The team is happy to see uptake
the coffees they’ve procured are best
isn’t slowing several months after
attributes can shine says Ferguson.
batch,” says Lindsay. ■
enjoyed without milk so their unique
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September 2019 | 23
DRINKS // Coffee
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FEATURE // Kitchen gardens
Kitchen bounty From 2000-square-metre rooftops to small courtyards, venues around the country are growing what they can and reaping the rewards.
THE OCCUPATION OF a chef is anchored
He and his team will work closely with
talk, only a few find the time to get out of
Adrian Baiada. “There are things I use on a
WORDS Madeline Woolway
that have taken matters into their own
by produce, but despite all the farm-to-fork the kitchen and into the field.
Hospitality looks at three venues
regular basis and then there are the things I would like to see trialed,” says Howard.
The relationship is one of collaboration,
hands by building on-site gardens. From
and Howard is personally driven by an
and TarraWarra Estate’s quarter-acre patch
menus. “We’ve tried to create a system
Melbourne’s soon-to-open Acre Brickworks to a small courtyard at the back of Hearth & Soul, there’s ample inspiration for operators of any size.
Acre Farm & Eatery will launch in late 2019 in Burwood Brickworks, a new development in Melbourne’s east.
ethos of allowing producers to guide his where it’s not about what I want to do,” he says. “It’s more a case of letting the farmer or producer telling us what’s good, what’s in season, what’s about to be grown and
what they can harvest without causing too much stress on the environment.”
With 2000 square metres of productive
At TarraWarra Estate in the Yarra Valley,
farming beds, high-intensity greenhouses,
with a gardener. The quarter-acre of land is
agricultural space featuring on-grade
native bees, worms, hen houses and more, the project is one of the largest of its kind in Australia.
The group’s executive head chef Gareth
Howard will draw heavily from the on-site farm when creating the eatery’s menus. 24 | Hospitality
urban farmer and environmental educator
head chef Mark Ebbels also works closely
dedicated to producing vegetables for the
cellar door restaurant. “Variety-wise there’s more than enough — we probably get 60
per cent from the garden. The predicament we have is with quantity.”
On the other hand, produce such as
enough to secure somewhere with a lovely
touch with the seasons and what’s actually
team copped half a tonne of pumpkin and
build a courtyard herb garden and veggie
good idea, but then we had strawberries
producing bumper crops. This year, the
hauled in 200 kilograms of eggplant by July. Managing the uncertainty requires
communication; if the kitchen wants 100
courtyard,” she says. “We were able to
patch and that was the first thing we did [when opening the venue].”
It’s not big: there’s a large planter box,
kilograms of one ingredient a month, the
a smaller patch of earth, lots of pots and
needs to go in the ground to achieve the
every kind of growing capacity we can,”
gardener needs to work out how much
correct yield. And when there’s oversupply, it’s time to get creative. This year, it meant
drying leftover eggplants and putting them aside for eventual use in a dashi stock.
It may not be practical, but ebbs and flows are all part of nature’s cycle and seeing it
in action is reason enough to install some kind of veggie patch says Rachel Jelley,
around later [than normal]. I would have assumed they were over.”
Junior chefs are taught early to respect
the ingredients they work with. “As a chef
says Jelley.
chef to order what’s needed,” says Ebbels.
Regardless of yield, all three venues
argue there are plenty of benefits to reap from on-site gardens. It’s less about a
better bottom line or control over supply and more about the effect on attitudes, creativity and skill.
Ebbels grew up on a veggie farm in
the Yarra Valley, and has relished the
Newtown, the venue has limited space,
inspire his menu. “It puts pressure on you
but that hasn’t stopped Jelley. “I was lucky
so early this year and the tomatoes were
bamboo tripods. “We basically harness
owner of Hearth & Soul.
Situated in the Sydney suburb of
growing,” he says. “I thought I had a pretty
opportunity to let the on-site garden
to be more creative and it gets you more in
de partie, you normally rely on the head “With a garden outside, you can go and
pick it, develop an understanding of when it grows and why. That changes how they treat [the produce].”
Although the farm at Acre’s Camperdown location is maintained by Pocket City, Howard has seen the effect of having
produce growing in sight of the kitchen. “Chefs take a bigger responsibility in
knowing where their produce is from, how it’s harvested and the amount of time and
Mark Ebbels
TarraWarra Estate
“It gets you much more in touch with the seasons and what’s actually growing.” – Mark Ebbels
TarraWarra Estate
September 2019 | 25
FEATURE // Kitchen gardens
pumpkins and eggplants are known for
FEATURE // Kitchen gardens
Rachel Jelley
Gareth Howard
effort it’s taken to get it into the kitchen,”
“Chefs take a bigger responsibility in knowing where their produce is from, how it’s harvested and the amount of time and effort it’s taken to get it into the kitchen.” – Gareth Howard
he says. “It’s been refreshing to watch the youngsters come into our kitchen and
produce from our own garden,” says Jelley. But self-sufficiency isn’t the point. The
learn that just because an avocado is in the
garden has cemented the team’s seasonal
it’s good in winter — and it’s actually a
out in front of their eyes. “It breeds respect
supermarkets all year round doesn’t mean strain on the environment. They produce better dishes as a result.”
Given Acre Brickworks will draw
predominantly from the rooftop farm,
approach because the seasons are played
for your farmers and your suppliers,” adds Jelley. “It completely blows my mind what they’re doing at a much larger scale.”
chefs will need to develop the capability
For most venues, a quarter-acre garden
“Sometimes extraordinary things like a
rooftop farm in Australia. While enviable,
to respond to unexpected events.
huge thunderstorm or prolonged bought of 46-degree days will heavily affect yield,”
he says. “We need to be ready to adapt to that and to develop or change our menus
is unrealistic, let alone the largest urban they aren’t necessary either. The lessons
detailed by TarraWarra and Hearth & Soul can be learned with much less.
“No matter the circumstances, everybody
at the drop of a hat. It’s about us being
should have one patch of dirt, even if
menus in the moment.”
industry works with nature and that is
capable enough to use products and write
A similar attitude defines the pace
of kitchen life at Hearth & Soul, too.
it’s just a herb in a pot,” says Jelley. “The what we’re doing — without nature, we have nothing. It’s our raw product.”
Gardening and cooking go hand-in-hand
Often singled out as a non-stop rollercoaster
leaving a career in finance. “We don’t
might be able to take a leaf out of nature’s
for Jelley, who opened the venue after
really control when dishes come on and off our menu,” she says.
The garden is too small to support the
venue, so produce from local suppliers is 26 | Hospitality
integral. “We supplement our menu with
of a profession, the hospitality industry book. “There are times of growth and
abundance and times of rest and slowness, and all of that is okay,” says Jelley. “And that’s okay for us as humans, too.” ■
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Pumpkin ceramic by Mal Meiers
FEATURE // Hospo hobbies
Break free Hospitality is one hell of an industry to be a part of, but it can also be engrossing — and not in a good way. We speak to a chef and a front of house gun who prove there’s more to life outside the bubble. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Marina Neil; Josh Vincent
IT’S NOT HARD to get caught up when
quickly turned into a passion project. “I
Fun people! And that’s just the tip of the
program for white collar workers. After
you work in hospitality. Food! Drinks!
iceberg. Throw in the long hours and afterwork socialising, and you’re on the fast
that, I really fell in love with the sport.” Javier Ashton was quick to shake the
track to becoming a die-hard hospitalian.
perfectly understandable loss, but had to
craft is a badge of honour, but taking a
Interestingly, boxing wasn’t the reason
Sure, being 100 per cent devoted to your step away can make all the difference, personally and professionally.
Hospitality talks to two pros doing just
that. There’s more to Kylie Javier Ashton than her role as general manager of
Momofuku Seiobo — she can also throw a mean punch — and Mal Meiers isn’t just a great head chef; he’s a ceramicist, too.
Four years ago, Kylie Javier Ashton lost her first amateur boxing match. “It was super disheartening even though it’s your first
fight,” she says. You see, Javier Ashton is an all or nothing person, and while she originally started boxing for fitness, it 28 | Hospitality
joined a gym that ran a 12-week training
take a year-long break due to an injury.
why she ended up in surgery. “I broke a
glass while polishing and got stitches seven years ago,” she says. Yes, Javier Ashton had glass in her hand for seven years
without realising. “It started to shift in my hand because of boxing, so I had an X-ray
and they said I had a lot of glass in there.” After recovering from surgery, the front
of house gun set herself a goal of competing in her second fight. “I changed gyms and
started training with a coach who works with some of the girls in the Australian team,”
says Javier Ashton. “From there, I started to take it more seriously because I had people around me who were athletes.”
Mal Meiers
Mal Meiers’ story is a little different. The Subo chef pursued ceramics as a means
to rise above the competition. “I wanted to give myself an edge for the Appetite
for Excellence program,” he says. “I guess I didn’t have the confidence in myself to
be able to cook well enough to win.” But
Meiers soon realised how difficult making
Bogey Hole ceramic with red gurnard crudo, coastal greens and seaweed
plates really was. “I thought I could do it
naturally high on the agenda, but Javier
competition, but it was a big awakening,”
commitment and set goals — even if it
two months prior and have plates for the he says.
After the program was over, Meiers
enrolled in a course at his local pottery studio and started to experiment with
different techniques. “Initially, I started throwing, but then I saw people in the
studio doing handling and I sort of tripped over my own style,” he says.
More importantly, the chef says making
ceramics went on to play a life-altering
role. Meiers is open about his struggles with depression and anxiety and is
the founder of Food for Thought, an
organisation that raises mental health
awareness in the industry. “It became one
of the tools in my toolbox to break my selfdestructive behaviour and it allowed me to
Ashton says it’s important to make a
house studio, which means he can make
means forgetting the snooze button exists.
Bennelong (he worked there from 2016–
“It’s hard, especially because I generally
don’t finish work until midnight,” she says. “I go straight home to bed and wake up at
6:00am to train most mornings. I go to the gym after only having five or six hours of sleep, but I love it — it keeps me sane.”
found hobby. “We had four days on and
three days off,” he says. “I was at my most
creative and had great work–life balance. I could spend a day making plates.”
His recent move to Newcastle has also
of things. “At first, I was like, ‘The times
as the inspiration for a dish served at
says it took a while to get into the swing don’t suit me, if there was a class at 9am
that would be better’, but I knew I had to
suck it up and commit. I gave myself a six-
month period when I first started the early
morning training. I thought if I made it the new normal, it wouldn’t be as hard.”
Mind games also came into the equation,
A career in hospitality can be all-
to train,” she says. “Mentally, if I didn’t
After coming off a long shift, sleep is
17) was just as conducive to his new-
pushed along Meiers’ creativity, with
especially once Javier Ashton committed
professionals to pursue other interests.
plates at his leisure, but says the roster at
While Javier Ashton is fighting fit, she
get myself back on track,” he says.
consuming and leave little time for
Meiers recently set up his own in-
to a fight. “It really gave me the motivation get up, [I was thinking] my opponent
would already be up and training, so that motivated me.”
local attraction the Bogey Hole serving Subo. “There’s a beautiful swimming
hole here and no one had really done
anything around it, so I spent about six months planning it, getting the shape
right and testing different glazes,” says
the chef. “I created bowls that look like
the Bogey Hole and then I built a seafood dish around it. It’s probably the greatest expression of the ability I have as a ceramicist and a chef.”
Once you establish a reputation in the
industry, it tends to stick. In Sydney, Javier September 2019 | 29
FEATURE // Hospo hobbies
“I’m being creative for the kitchen, but I’m not thinking about food.” – Mal Meiers
FEATURE // Hospo hobbies
“I’m not thinking about anybody else when I’m in the ring ... It’s my time to think solely about me and be present and in the moment.” – Kylie Javier Ashton
Kylie Javier Ashton at a boxing match
Ashton would be hard-pressed to go out without
bumping into a familiar face. That’s not to say it’s
to pursue interests outside of Subo and is open
a part of a tight-knit community — but the lines
a match. Meiers says the perfect example is a
a bad thing — there’s nothing better than being inevitably blur between the person and the job. The Seiobo GM says it was months before
anyone in the gym asked her what she did for work and says boxing has opened up a new
world where restaurants aren’t the be all and
end all. “If you go to a restaurant or bar, you’re still representing and people know you from your restaurant, so you always feel like you
have to be switched on,” she says. “At the gym, Javier Ashton In 2014,
trains with
Meiers
women who
started
are part of
making
the Australian
plates
Olympic team
The Seiobo
primarily
GM is also
makes
a judge for
ceramics
Appetite for
modelled off
Excellence
vegetables
malt chocolate dessert that was conceptualised
during an afternoon brewing session. “My sous
chef is an amateur brewer and we made a brown ale,” he says. “I thought it would be a good idea to slow-roast Jerusalem artichokes in the ale
and make a sorbet.” The team created another
component for the dessert with the spent grain,
which was turned into flour for a chocolate cake. Making plates and getting in the ring are two
ourselves and help each other be better.”
closely tied. Javier Ashton says she’s become a
don’t really care. We’re all there to take care of Boxing has also allowed Javier Ashton to
reach milestones that aren’t affiliated with her
job. “When you work in restaurants, you give so
much of yourself to everyone, and as a manager,
very different vocations, but the benefits are
more confident person and Meiers is accepting
of the fact things don’t always turn out the way you expect.
Javier Ashton has overcome the performance
you want to help everyone achieve goals, so
anxiety she initially experienced when getting in
I’m not thinking about anybody else when I’m in
reaching. “When things happen at work I’m like:
the ring getting punched in the face. It’s literally
my time to think solely about me and be present and in the moment. It’s almost like a form of
meditation because you have to be self-aware.” Meiers says making ceramics has provided
the ring and says the flow-on effect has been far ‘This is easy, I’ve been punched in the face and I
do this for fun’,” she says. “It makes me a calmer
person at work and my husband says I’m a better person to be around because I’m happier when I’m active and have goals outside of work.”
Meiers admits he gets a little carried away
him with another outlet to be creative without
at times, but five years of making ceramics
hobby is directly connected to his profession,
probably the biggest thing I’ve learned from
being in the confines of the kitchen. While his he doesn’t think it’s a bad thing. “In my own
way, it’s an escape, but it’s familiar and safe,”
he says. “It allows me to think differently about
cooking without actually thinking about cooking. I’m being creative for the kitchen, but I’m not thinking about food.” 30 | Hospitality
to implementing them at the restaurant if it’s
they don’t understand restaurants and they
there’s little time to do something for yourself.
Meiers
The chef also encourages members of his team
has helped him take a step back. “Patience is ceramics and to be okay when things turn out differently,” he says. “In ceramics, you can be super consistent, but sometimes things will
happen that are completely out of your control.”
So what’s the moral of the story? There’s more
to gain from flying the coop than staying in it. ■
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FEATURE // Cheese
Local matters
When it comes to cheese plates, chefs are taking a local — not a global — approach. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Bronwyn Silver; Jane Allen; Nikki To AUSTRALIA PRODUCES OVER 377,000
tonnes of cheese a year, which is almost
half the amount churned out by countries including France and Italy. The number
of Australian artisan producers is small,
but the cheesemakers are mighty, and so
is the dining public’s interest in products with provenance.
Bennelong’s Rob Cockerill and Mode
Kitchen & Bar’s Francesco Mannelli are two chefs forgoing imported cheeses
and championing products that put local makers on the map. The chefs talk to
Hospitality about the importance of storytelling and seasonality, how to create a
balanced cheese offering and why they
place just as much emphasis on cheese as any other dish on the menu.
For Bennelong head chef Rob Cockerill and executive chef Peter Gilmore, an
all-Australian cheese offering was on
the cards from the start. “We wanted to
champion Australian producers and step
away from using a world-wide selection,”
says Cockerill. “We have beautiful products that hold their heads up with the rest of
the world and the cheese-making practices are getting better and better.”
The restaurant’s cheese offering revolves,
but sticks to the same format of a blue
cheese or blue mould, a hard or cheddar
style and a soft cheese (La Luna or Brigid’s Well) by Holy Goat. “The cheese plate has three cheeses Pete and I feel are at their
best at the time,” says Cockerill. “By using
those three varieties, we have a selection of what’s shining at that moment.”
By putting on different products
throughout the year, the restaurant is
also able to communicate the concept of
seasonality to customers, whether they’re
regulars or first-timers. “The flavour profile Pecora Dairy cheeses
32 | Hospitality
will change throughout the year and can
change dramatically,” says Cockerill. “The
FEATURE // Cheese
cheeses can really capture a season and
and they gain more knowledge and learn
animal is doing and even the cheesemaker.”
customers,” says Mannelli. Interestingly,
are reflective of the time, place, what the
new terms to communicate with the
On the other side of the water, Francesco
cheese sales spike every time staff undergo
Mannelli is taking a similar approach at
training. “After a few days, they upsell the
Mode. “We like to showcase Australian
cheeses — it’s incredible,” says the chef.
products at the restaurant and keep things as local as possible,” says the chef. “My
You can’t do much to make Australian
hard and soft cheeses, but at the same time
accompaniments can certainly complement
first idea was to put on aged, hard, semi-
cheeses better than they are, but considered
I like cheeses made with different kinds of
a cheese plate. Bennelong makes seasonal
milk. Currently, we have goat, sheep and
jams such as beetroot or plum that have
cow and we had buffalo in the past.”
been created to work with the flavour
Mode offers products from Holy Goat,
profile of each cheese. For example, Bruny
Pecora Dairy and Pyengana Dairy, which
Mannelli says are representative of the high
calibre of cheeses Australia is producing. “We have many guests from the US or Europe, so it’s good to showcase these iconic cheeses.” There’s no doubt consumer interest has
risen in cheese (#cheeseboard has over 593,000 images on Instagram), and so
has their interest in the story behind the
product. Cockerill says the background of a producer is a big part of every component Bennelong puts on a plate and believes it
adds depth to the guest experience. “Some of the smaller artisan companies aren’t
able to get into the spotlight and we like to
put the best products in front of guests and
Island’s raw milk C2, Holy Goat’s La Luna Rob Cockerill
“We wanted to champion Australian producers and step away from using a worldwide selection.” – Rob Cockerill
make it a big celebration,” he says.
and Berry’s Creek Riverine Blue are served
with rhubarb jam and a selection of breads. “We have grissini, freshly baked brioche
and walnut and raisin bread which are each placed next to the cheese they accompany,” says Cockerill. “We wanted to show off the products by keeping it minimal.”
Mannelli switches up accompaniments
according to each variety and chooses to serve Holy Goat with truffle honey,
Pyengana cheddar with orange marmalade and Jamberoo Mountain Blue with Chianti gelatin. Like Cockerill, Mannelli changes
the accompaniments according to season. “We use seasonal fruit to make the jam
and the cheeses are also served with dried fruit, fresh fruit and nuts.”
Just like any other dish, staff are briefed
A range of breads are added to the cheese
on tasting notes and dietary requirements
board, with the selection curated to appeal
three to four times a year at Mode with
moment, we have a Sardinian flatbread
at Bennelong and Mode. Training is held
to a wide range of preferences. “At the
the restaurant’s cheese suppliers, front
called pane carasau, which works well with
of house staff and the kitchen team. “We go through all the cheeses on the menu
the soft cheese and we also have rye bread, La Luna
gluten-free bread and grissini,” he says.
September 2019 | 33
FEATURE // Cheese Francesco Mannelli
Holy Goat’s Ann-Marie and Carla
Cheese is an expensive product for restaurants, which means staff
room temperature during service is one of the best ways to
Cockerill says chefs keep a close eye on stock to ensure they aren’t
the different textures of cheeses, I store them in the fridge to
need to be on the ball when it comes to storage and preparation.
over ordering. “For fridge room, they’re big items to have en plus and they’re expensive, so minimising ordering and only prepping what we need for the day,” he says.
Bennelong work out an average of how many portions of cheese
they sell per service to ensure minimal wastage. “We don’t go too
far ahead in cutting cheeses, and having someone working on that
serve cheeses, but when considering seasons, temperatures and make sure they aren’t cold when they arrive at the table,” says
Mannelli. “The flavour and texture can change if the temperature and humidity aren’t right.” The chef also tries to steer clear of
plastic wrap where possible, instead using baking paper to let the cheeses breathe.
The local cheese industry is around 30 years young, but artisan
section as part of their mise en place is to have waste control.”
cheesemakers are hitting their stride and creating products that
and runs between 12–15 degrees Celsius. “Storing cheese at
together a stellar offering that really is the big cheese. ■
Mode has a dedicated cheese fridge which has high humidity
compete on a global level. Chefs don’t need to look far to put
Cheese 101 with Penny Lawson from Penny’s Cheese Shop Seasonality
raw milk cheese, goat’s milk and buffalo.
There’s a huge variation seasonally with
Look for a soft, a hard and a blue.
the pastures the livestock are eating and it changes the flavour of the milk. In spring, the grass is young and soft and you will find herbal and floral notes. In summer, you will get more straw flavours coming through.
34 | Hospitality
Portioning and storage Air-tight containers are good as they keep the aroma within the cheese box and the cheese doesn’t take on the aroma of what else is in the fridge. Most people like cheese at room
The perfect cheese plate
temperature, so portion control needs to be
You want something that changes with the
considered so you don’t have excess cheese
seasons and has a range of textures and
out that has to be packed away. Guides to
strengths. There has been a reach towards
cut particular cheeses such as large blocks of
non-bovine cheeses such as sheep’s milk,
cheddar are accessible to chefs online.
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FEATURE // Pastry Tonka’s gulab jamun
Here to kuih The preservation of childhood memories is driving a new generation of chefs to reconnect with the traditional pastry techniques behind classic desserts from across Asia. WORDS Madeline Woolway CHILDHOOD MEMORIES OF rolling
Junda Khoo, owner of Sydney
Coda’s ice cream sandwich, for example,
sweet glutinous rice dumplings with
restaurants Ho Jiak Strathfield and
features a kuih loyang, a deep-fried batter
Kay-Lene Tan is a pastry chef. She
path, but has also set about learning
among other dry ingredients. The light,
her grandma and mother are the reason graduated from culinary school, worked
at Joel Robuchon’s flagship restaurant in
Singapore and with Andres Lara at Jason Atherton’s restaurant, Pollen.
As head pastry chef at Melbourne
restaurants Coda and Tonka (both owned
by Adam D’Sylva), Tan has long developed
Haymarket, came to cooking via a different the techniques needed to make Nyonya cuisine. As they did for Tan, childhood
memories drove Khoo to pursue a career
in the kitchen and a particular passion for kuih, the famous Nyonya snack, has seen him using traditional methods.
But there’s a reason desserts, such as
desserts with flavour profiles inspired by
kuih, have fallen prey to automation: they’re
means she often turns to classical French
Hospitality speaks to Tan and Khoo about
memories of Singapore, but her training techniques. The methods used by her
family — those that form the bedrock of
labour-intensive and time consuming. why they think it’s worth it.
Peranakan or Nyonya cuisine — are slowly
The menus at Coda and Tonka currently
chefs across Australia and even in the
traditional pastry elements from South and
being forgotten, not just by Tan, but pastry countries they originate. 36 | Hospitality
composed of coconut milk and rice flour crispy crackers are made by dipping a
copper mould into the batter and then into
a deep fryer. Mass-produced kuih loyang are readily available from suppliers and shops
— a tempting option for time-poor kitchens. “Personally, I feel like it’s a technique
that’s not practiced regularly anymore,
which is sad, because it’s something my
Mum used to make when I was younger,” says Tan. “So when I started trying to
figure out how to do it for Coda’s menu, it was pretty interesting for me.”
have a number of desserts that incorporate
The process of learning how to make
South-East Asia.
opportunity to reconnect Tan with her
the pastry again might have been an
come from unexpected places.
After winning the HostPlus Hospitality
scholarship in 2018, Tan spent time at Hisa Franko and Atelier Crenn, where she discovered similar pastries were
being made, albeit using slightly different
practices. “I saw them using techniques that were very similar to the kuih rose, which is why I came back and thought, ‘Why don’t I put this on the menu?’” says Tan.
At Dominque Crenn’s San Francisco
restaurant Atelier Crenn, heart-shaped
pastries were made by putting a mould dip into liquid nitrogen. “They were dipping
the mould into liquid nitrogen, then into a batter and then back into liquid nitrogen
— it’s the same technique but using a cold
“You can recreate a dish, but the flavours and techniques you’ve known since you were a child are usually the ones you can recreate best.” – Kay-Lene Tan in India, they have something incredibly
similar called achu murukku, which is on the menu at Tonka,” says Tan. “It’s cool
when you actually do the research about
all these techniques and see that it goes all the way back to the spice trade.”
With a long history behind them,
method,” says Tan.
continuing importance in their cuisine of
an equivalent with batter that had been
restaurants from the States to Slovenia,
On the other hand, Hisa Franko made
aerated in a siphon canister. “The kuih
rose is well known in South-East Asia, but
FEATURES // Pastry
Peranakan heritage, but inspiration can
origin and a place on the menu at high-end why aren’t more chefs making pastries like the kuih rose in-house?
Coda's ice cream sandwich
Tonka's Apple Muruku
September 2019 | 37
FEATURE // Pastry
“It’s time consuming,” says Tan. “You need
Unfortunately, the cost is often not
make them one by one.”
to pay.
a lot of space and time to stand there and
The same is true for gulab jamun, a sweet
reflected in the price consumers are willing “Traditional cakes aren’t sold as a
common in South Asia. The recipe on Tonka’s
high-end product, which I find funny,”
sous chefs and uses ricotta instead of the
Europe, a cake is going to cost 10 euro
menu was developed by one of the previous traditional paneer. “We do it with ricotta to marry Adam’s Italian and Indian heritage,”
says Tan. “But the technique is pretty much the same as how it’s made traditionally.” These days, it’s not common to make
says Tan. “When you go to places like
for a piece, whereas, if you go to SouthEast Asia, traditional cakes are a few
dollars — it doesn’t make up for the fact it’s so labour-intensive.”
The kuih sell like hot cakes at Ho
gulab jamun even in India. “What I
Jiak, but that doesn’t make them the
much easier to buy it off the shelf,” says Tan.
promote the offering or list it on the
understand, from my colleagues, is that it’s
The dough needs to be rolled and rested
to the right point so the balls don’t explode when fried, explains Tan. Then, there’s the soaking process, which needs to be long enough for the syrup to sink in.
Space and time are two things restaurant
kitchens don’t have much of. The latter is a particularly big burden for restaurants. It’s a consideration Khoo and his team at
Ho Jiak have had to work around in order to offer their customers a range of eight
different kuih, from savoury variations like
breadwinner. In fact, Khoo doesn’t
menu; it’s his way of managing the
workload. The Haymarket venue’s Nyonya high tea, which features kuih heavily,
recently experienced a surge in popularity
the experience I want for my
chef comes in each morning, she knows
diners.” – Junda Khoo
limited to bookings. “When my pastry
exactly how many kuih she has to make,” says Khoo. “If we run out, it costs too
much to put someone else on to make more and if we make too much, we’ll need to throw them out.”
At the end of the day, it’s worth it for
day’s kuih ready by midday.
doesn’t come from margins or making
“It’s not common in Australia because
it’s very labour-intensive,” says Khoo. “And labour is one of the most expensive things about having a business in Australia.” Time is of the essence when it comes
to training, too. For Khoo, a self-taught
cook, kuih have been the most difficult to
perfect. While he was able to rely on taste for many dishes offered at his venues,
kuih require a precision that can only be achieved with persistence.
“It’s very difficult to get it consistent,”
says Khoo, who started learning to make
different kuih using recipes from his aunt.
“And what I did was experiment. It was like ‘redo, redo, redo’ until I was finally happy.” The finance professional-turned-
restaurateur then had to train a pastry
chef — with the requisite passion for fiddly work — to maintain the section. 38 | Hospitality
“It’s more the service and
following media coverage, so it’s now
pie tee to sweet versions such as kuih lapis. A pastry chef is on-site from 7am, with the
Junda Khoo
both Tan and Khoo, but the pay-off
money. “My main reason for making kuih is the service and the experience I want for my diners,” says Khoo.
Chefs can benefit from doing things the
old school way, too. When Tan was earning her trade, the most important lessons were about doing things by hand. Following
fundamental processes, like mixing the
batter for a kuih rose or rolling out dough
for gulab jamun, keeps chefs in touch with the culinary arts.
“The one thing that all my travels and
working with different chefs has taught me is to never forget where you came from,” says Tan. “You can recreate a dish, but
the flavours and techniques you’ve known
since you were a child are usually the ones you can recreate best.”
It’s a philosophy that extends beyond
any cuisine and one that can guide any chef. ■
Ho Jiak’s kuih
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Follow the recipe to make Moreton Bay bug Thermidor with TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce. Ingredients 2 Moreton Bay bug tails
sauce, sauté garlic, ginger and lemongrass in a sauce pot.
Magnaye’s version uses a Moreton Bay bug
20g minced lemongrass
instead with a punchy sauce. “My twist is
500ml coconut cream
that I use coconut cream to make the sauce
Fish sauce to taste
instead of cream and cheese,” says the
Shaoxing wine
“celebrate South-East Asian flavours” such as lemongrass. The final touch is adding
Tapioca flour 5g chilli Chopped mixed herbs
TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce to
Shiso to garnish
add fruity but serious heat. “It has the
TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce
true flavours of Jamaican-style peppers blended with mango, papaya, tamarind,
Method
banana and ginger.” ■
1.
TABASCO®, the Diamond and Bottle
2.
4.
Deglaze with shaoxing wine.
5.
Add TABASCO® Habanero Pepper Sauce to taste.
6.
Add the coconut cream and fish sauce to taste.
7.
Add the tapioca slurry and cook out.
8.
Add the bug meat into the coconut béchamel sauce and mix until just cooked.
9.
Take the bug meat off the
Deshell and dice the
heat. Add chillies and chopped
Morton Bay bug meat
mixed herbs.
into small cubes.
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To make the coconut béchamel
10g garlic
combines lobster with a creamy sauce,
Magnaye uses ingredients, which he says
3.
For the coconut béchamel sauce
5g ginger
chef. To achieve a balanced flavour profile,
smooth paste. Set aside.
10. Serve the mix in the shell
Mix tapioca flour with water
and finish with shellfish oil
and stir until it has formed a
and shiso.
Logos are trademarks of McIlhenny Co. September 2019 | 39
BEHIND THE SCENES // Latte art
Latte art with The Grounds An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.
THERE ARE A NUMBER of things to consider
1
2
3
4
5
6
when creating latte art. Andrew Hunt, Roastery training manager at The Grounds, says it’s important to think about timing; having the steamed milk and the espresso shot finished at the same time will ensure you have smooth, silky milk and thick crema to work with. There are essentially two stages; developing a canvas of consistent colour by mixing the milk and coffee, then forming the pattern by bringing the milk spout as close to the surface as possible. Hunt recommends starting with the heart pattern before moving on to the tulip and the rosetta.
Method Prepare milk for steaming by pouring into the jug. Set up espresso shot. When the shot starts pulling, begin steaming the milk. To get the right ratio of microfoam, start with a half-full jug and stretch the milk until it fills three-quarters of the jug. Loosen up the crema by giving the cup a gentle swirl. Start pouring the milk slowly from a short distance with a thin stream across the crema breaking it apart with a circular motion. When the cup is about half to three-quarters full, bring the jug down close to the surface and start floating the pattern. To create a heart pattern, allow the milk to continue curving around the tip of the milk jug until you get to the top and then bring a thin stream straight through. Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au
40 | Hospitality
EQUIPMENT // Citrus press
Citrus press As useful in the kitchen as they are in the bar.
Seeds and pulp are captured in the device. Typically made from enamel, plastic or stainless steel.
Extracts juice in one motion. Used to make cocktails or add a citrus hit to dishes.
Available in different sizes according to citrus
Enamel and plastic
such as lime or
varieties are
lemon.
dishwasher-safe and rust-resistant.
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September 2019 | 41
5 MINUTES WITH ... // Luke Piccolo
Luke Piccolo
2019’s Appetite for Excellence Young Restaurateur on opening Limone Dining, running a regional venue and the importance of staying connected to industry peers. I MOVED BACK to Griffith in 2015. I was
When you work for yourself, you have to
working at a Michelin-starred restaurant
change your outlook on the industry and
restaurant. Our family café was going to
not only in your restaurant, but in terms of
in Italy while my father was building a
move into that space, but it got to the stage
where I said, ‘This is a bit too nice for a little
country café’, so I proposed I move back and start a restaurant. It was a good opportunity
be aware of everything that’s going on;
I entered Appetite for Excellence. I’m
I had great mentors in Giovanni and
but also other aspects of the business. Even
cooking. We try hard to make sure
everything has a purpose. It’s not just
delicious food; it showcases our area, our people and our producers. 42 | Hospitality
I don’t think you can expect people to
lot, but it was still a massive learning curve.
region I grew up in.
area has given me direction with my
way I run my business.
hold your hand. I always ask questions
small business through my parents helped a
Marilyn from Pilu at Freshwater. They tried
Running my own venue in a regional
great mentors locally that have helped the
competition and trends. Being exposed to
to cement myself and start a restaurant. Plus, I’m a country boy and I’d always loved the
Regional Development Australia have some
their best to show me not just the kitchen, when I moved back to Griffith, they were
the first to offer help. Hospitality is a really
great industry in that way; people are willing to give advice. Regional organisations have also helped me build business acumen so
our restaurant is successful and sustainable.
and start conversations, which is why an advocate for regional cuisine and
regional staff. To be able to showcase
what we do to a national audience is the
best reward we can give our staff. Sitting down and vocalising our business goals
has reaffirmed what we set out to do. It’s reignited the passion. I have a network
now and being surrounded by people who are like-minded and passionate was such an awesome experience. ■
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