NO.776 SEPTEMBER 2021
Meet our hand-stretched Turkish range
Meet our hand-stretched Turkish range We start with a delicate, highly hydrated dough, that we ferment for longer than regular bread. Then we hand-stretch each roll and loaf to shape. But the secret to our perfectly leavened bread is stone baking each loaf at a high heat, creating a distinctly open texture.
SOFT TURKISH ROUND LUNCH ROLL
SOFT TURKISH OVAL LUNCH ROLL
SOFT TURKISH PIDE
130g, 70 per carton
110g, 38 per carton
400g, 20 per carton
9423
9424
9420
12 Months frozen shelf-life
Available nationally
Freezer to table convenience
Thaw and serve
CONTACT YOUR LOCAL FOODSERVICE DISTRIBUTOR TO ORDER
www.t
iptop-foodse TIPTOP-FOODSERVICE.COM.AU rvice
.com.au
© Registered trade marks of George Weston Foods Limited. All rights reserved.
NO.776 SEPTEMBER 2021
LOBSTER • KYLIE JAVIER ASHTON • TRUFFLES • JOCK ZONFRILLO
CONTENTS // September
Contents SEPTEMBER 2021
8
Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS A new cutlery brand is changing the way we eat. 10 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more. 12 // PRODUCE Demand for local sweetsop is booming. 14 // COLUMN The perks of keeping things small. 16 // DRINKS Three bartenders on the martini.
4 | Hospitality
24
24 // PROFILE Kylie Javier Ashton reflects on Momofuku Seiobo. 54 // BEHIND THE SCENES Misono’s crispy tuna roll. 56 // EQUIPMENT Potato ricers are useful for more than just gnocchi. 58 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Jock Zonfrillo.
44
Features 30 // LOBSTER Chefs and at-home diners are reaping the rewards of local lobsters. 38 // POUR OVER The original coffee-making technique is back. 44 // TEMPEH The Indonesian ingredient is packed full of unlocked potential. 50 // TRUFFLES Lockdowns have made 2021’s truffle season a memorable one.
Gluten free
Non GMO
The Lutosa classic cut fries are anything but ordinary. Their layer of gluten-free starch coating keeps them hot and crunchy for a longer period of time. They are your perfect solution for take away dishes and home deliveries.
www.lutosa.com
Lutosa Pacific I Sydney New South Wales Australia I +61 427 00 6801 I pacific@lutosa.com I www.lutosa.com
EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello
Social
Keep up with the Hospitality team
WHERE THERE'S SMOKE ... There’s Heston. Grill’d has teamed up with the chef on a limited burger range. @hospitalitymagazine
Keeping on THE PAST FEW months has put hospitality
to me about the closure of Momofuku Seiobo
professionals across multiple states in limbo
and what’s next for the front of house
once again. But as always, the industry is
professional, who has made huge strides for
supporting one another and pushing ahead.
a crucial workforce that’s often overlooked in
The ‘in this together’ mentality has kept the
the industry.
wheels in motion for many operators in spite of so much uncertainty.
A BALANCED APPROACH Carbonara and a Brussels sprouts salad (for health). @annabellecloros
This issue, Hospitality welcomes our new journalist Aristine Dobson, who has written
It’s something that’s evident in the
about an all-time classic cocktail (the
collaborative nature of many initiatives
martini, of course) and the return of pour-
we’re seeing. Fishermen were faced with the
over coffee. She also takes a deep-dive into
closure of a crucial export market last year
chefs making tempeh.
followed by restaurant lockdowns, leaving
I hope you enjoy this issue.
them with valuable produce to move. I speak to Red Claw Seafoods and two
Until next time,
chefs about how they’re bringing a little
Annabelle Cloros
luxury to diners with lobster and keeping
Editor
CURLY CLASSIC Taking an old childhood treat to another level with Curly Wurly choc-chip cookies. @aristinedob
Follow us
fishermen in work. Kylie Javier Ashton chats
@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au ARISTINE DOBSON Journalist adobson@intermedia.com.au
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
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6 | Hospitality
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IN FOCUS // Cutlery
8 | Hospitality
Product Designer Nicholas Johnston on Krof; a one-of-a-kind cutlery line. WORDS Aristine Dobson THEY’RE THE VESSELS that transport
(for the spoon),” says Johnston. “It
notice a knife or a fork beyond picking
commercial environment.”
food to our mouths, but how often do you it up? Krof set out to change that when
also needs to be able to stand up in a The next stage entailed plenty of trial
they developed a premium range of eating
and error, starting off with sketching
dining experience.
CAD software. Ten rounds of 3D printing
utensils with a purpose: elevating the
Hospitality talks to Product Designer
Nicholas Johnston about why he decided to launch the brand, the creative process and the role cutlery can play in a restaurant environment.
Nicholas Johnston found the right partner for Krof in Melbourne Restaurateur
Kristian Klein. The pair saw a gap in
the market for cutlery with a point of
difference after Klein couldn’t find a brand that fit the bill.
In response to the dilemma, Johnston
considered the evolution of cutlery
throughout history, which would go on
to form the starting point for Krof’s first
collection. “Australians love eating beautiful food, but for some reason, the cutlery is
kind of forgotten or it’s just ordinary,” says the designer. “It used to be old English
silverware made with quality materials [according to] quality manufacturing
before moving to the utilisation of 3D
occurred before the desired scale and form was achieved. “We then set out to find a
quality we were looking for.”
“Cutlery is the most intimate product on the table: you’re looking at it; you’re picking it up with your hands and you’re putting it in your mouth. There are not many products on the table where you do that.” – Nicholas Johnston Of course, it didn’t stop there; the
to gain input on how Krof could tweak
prototyping and was worked into the final development stages.
a fork enters the mouth. In addition to
Quality was next on the list, with high-
priority. “It has to be perfectly weighted
material of choice for the range. “It’s an
and balanced; it needs to function, it needs to have the right angle to prod something, the right serrations and the right volume
a bit more glam,” says Johnston. “It can
flex quite a bit in its style because I think it’s a fairly classic colour.”
and the RACV Cape Schanck Resort. Its
the pieces. The feedback was crucial for
visual aesthetics, practicality was a top
like a neutral coastal aesthetic or it can be
at least three before we found one with the
lightweight, sharp and generic looking.”
how a guest picks up a knife to the angles
you can dress it up and down. It can be
Krof has become the cutlery brand of
care and detail,” says Johnston. “We tried
cutlery was tested in Klein’s restaurants
The Krof team considered everything from
thus far. “It’s a classic look on the table;
manufacturer who appreciated our level of
methods. Then we landed on cheap metal stamped out in one piece that’s really
Even though polished steel is a timeless
classic, the gold set has been the best seller
choice among venues such as Mr Miyagi contemporary style and unique shape has added to the overall dining experience
and taken it to another level. Compared to other dinnerwares, Johnston believes cutlery might not be “the hero of the
table”, but it creates anticipation for the
meal to come. “Cutlery is the most intimate product on the table: you’re looking at it; you’re picking it up with your hands and
you’re putting it in your mouth,” he says.
“There are not many products on the table where you do that.”
An expansion of Krof’s range is in the
works, with Johnston planning on adding more items. “The cutlery was the starting
point to introduce our brand, and we think it’s fairly polarising in that it’s quick, slick
and minimal,” says the designer. “The next one might be bolder or it might be a bit less polarising. We’re working on some
other products, too, and hopefully many more to come.”
Cutlery is a daily fixture in our lives, yet
grade stainless steel selected as the
we very rarely stop to assess quality and
18/10 stainless-steel base material and the
launch of Krof is switching up the game,
colours are a titanium coating to get the gold and black finishes,” says Johnston.
the level of practicality it provides. The
encouraging venues to set the table a little differently from now on. ■
September 2021 | 9
IN FOCUS // Cutlery
Setting the table for success
NEWS // Entrée
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events and more. EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros
Milk-alternative coffee launches
Kepos to go
Coffee beans for alternative milks are now available from
Kepos Street Kitchen in Sydney’s Redfern is serving up takeaway covering
Bastion Lane Espresso. Alt is ideal for soy, almond, oat,
all the major meals (including all-important snacks) from 8am until 3pm
macadamia and coconut milks and has a smooth acidity
daily. The eatery’s signature pitas are on offer, with an extensive deli
which ensures splitting doesn’t occur during the coffee-
selection including everything from vegetarian moussaka and marinated
making process. Alt sees organic beans from Peru hand-
whole chicken to salads, falafel, dips and more.
roasted in a post office in Uki, New South Wales. Beans
keposstreetkitchen.com.au
start at $15. bastionlane.com
Photography by Kitti Gould
Popping good fun Koko Black has ventured into the snack market with the creation of a new chocolate-covered popcorn range. There are four flavourways in the collection including Pop Goes the Milk (honey-glazed with milk chocolate); Popped in the Dark (54 per cent dark chocolate over candied popcorn); Goldie Pop (caramelised white chocolate over sweetened popcorn) and Berry Poppins (berry-infused white chocolate over honey popcorn). The boxes are $17.90 each or available in a hamper which also includes Koko’s dark hot cocoa and caramelised coconut Dotties. kokoblack.com
10 | Hospitality
The Dessert Game Reynold Poernomo Murdoch Books; $36.99 KOI Dessert Bar and MasterChef Australia alum Reynold Poernomo has penned a cookbook that celebrates all things sugar. The Dessert Game is split up into three levels according to difficulty, with recipes covering everything from a classic crème caramel to the ultimate praline tart and Poernomo signatures White Noise and Magic Mushrooms. There are also choose-your-own flavour flowcharts, substitution options and equipment tips. The book is officially released on 2 November 2021. murdochbooks.com.au
Moon Dog’s Magic IPA A new West Coast IPA has joined Moon Dog’s range. The Magic EyePA is dry hopped with Citra, Eureka and Talus, resulting in a flavour profile with pine and citrus notes. The orange-hued brew sits at 7 per cent ABV and is available by the can or in four or 12 packs. moondogbrewing.com.au Photography by Samantha Schultz
$228 steak sandwich lands at Niku Ou Melbourne’s Niku Ou by WagyuYa is serving up a steak sandwich with an impressive price tag. The A5 Kobe Wagyu chateaubriand steak sando features two katsu-style slices of beef sprinkled with edible gold flakes sandwiched between two slices of bread for $228. There are two other sando options including full-blood Wagyu tenderloin ($98) and Japanese A5 Omi Wagyu tenderloin ($132).
Whiskey bitters from Melbourne The Gospel Distillers have created a new form of bitters under the sub-label The Dispensary. The bitters have a Solera rye whiskey base that is steeped with orange peel, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, vanilla, star anise and other botanicals, resulting in an ideal companion for cocktails such as an Old Fashioned as well as other whiskey-forward options. $19 for 100ml. thegospelwhiskey.com September 2021 | 11
NEWS // Entrée
Playing for sweets
PRODUCE // Sweetsop
High in energy and vitamin C Some farms have up to 2,000 trees
There are more than 130 growers in the country
Most commonly consumed raw
Most widely grown of all the Has a custard-
species of the
like flesh
Annona
Most common varieties are green or red
Australia produces around 830,000kg pieces of fruit per year
12 | Hospitality
PRODUCE // Sweetsop
Sweetsop A scaly rind conceals a custard-like core. WORDS Annabelle Cloros Origins
Sweetsop is ready to harvest when it turns green.
Sweetsop is known by the scientific name Annona
The segments also come apart as the fruit ripens to
squamosa and is also referred to as a sugar apple
reveal the flesh, which is an indication of ripeness
or pinha. The fruit is from the Annonaceae family
along with the seeds changing from light brown to
and is native to the West Indies and tropical
almost black. The fruit is extremely delicate and
America. It’s believed it was brought to Asia by
should be cut at the stem with a sharp knife or
Spanish traders in the Philippines and it is now
pruning shears to ensure the tree is not damaged.
widespread throughout northern Queensland, which has one of the largest breeding programs in
Appearance and flavour profile
the world. There are many variations of sweetsop,
Sweetsop is spherical-conical in shape and can
with India home to 10 different types and local
weigh up to 250g. It has a thick, scaly rind covered
producers working on new commercial varieties.
in knobbly segments that conceal a creamy white/ light yellow flesh that is segmented and resembles
Growth and harvest
custard. The juicy, fragrant flesh is filled with as
Sugar apples require tropical or near-tropical
many as 40 brown-black seeds that are arranged
climates to thrive. They need heavy loam with good
in a single layer around the core. The flavour is
drainage, but do well in most soil types. Trees are
described as minty, milky or custardy.
commonly grown from seed and should be planted horizontally with enough distance between each
Culinary applications and storage
seed. The germination rate is low and can take
While sweetsop is most commonly consumed raw, it
around 30 days.
is a popular dessert option across multiple cuisines.
The evergreen plant grows between 3-6m tall
In Malaysia, it’s turned into ice cream and it can
and has an open crown of irregular branches.
be combined with sugar, water and cardamom to
Oblong, deciduous leaves have an aromatic scent
make a milk/juice beverage. It is very popular in
and can grow up to 15cm long. The flowers are
Jamaica where it’s added to custards, ice creams
typically solitary, but can grow in groups of up
and milkshakes.
to four. They have a green exterior and a cream
The fruit has a short shelf life and should be
interior with six petals. It can take five years for
consumed quickly. It only keeps for a couple of days
trees to fruit, with the produce becoming smaller as
at room temperature, but can be refrigerated to
the tree ages.
increase longevity. ■ September 2021 | 13
COLUMN // Humble on Duke
Jade Tareha and Stacey Conner
Humble beginnings Working in a small space comes with its challenges, but the owners of Humble on Duke wouldn’t have it any other way. WORDS Stacey Conner and Jade Tareha PHOTOGRAPHY Oran Hassidim I’VE [STACEY] WORKED in so many
course of a couple of days. She’ll have a
weeks where we will not pay ourselves and
huge venues over the last 15 years, but
menu for a few weeks or change things
we’re so lucky to be in a position where
it was always a dream to focus on food,
weekly, so there’s less wastage. We try to
my parents can help us or come in and do
genuine hospitality and to share a story
be as sustainable as possible and take our
a couple of shifts. At the moment, people
with customers. I wanted it to be about me
artisan producers into consideration.
don’t want to eat out in Noosa on Sunday
cooking again and having front of house really connect with guests. It’s just Jade and myself, and we always
and Monday. So they are the two nights that
Because we’re small, we
wanted Humble on Duke to be this small
literally know who’s coming
because we wanted to limit the amount of
through the door. Everyone
people involved. The more people you have, the more your own story gets lost. Originally, we were like, ‘Imagine if we
says they feel like they’re in our home. – Jade Tareha
could have an eight-seater restaurant and have dinner parties like we used to do at
are quieter, but we know once we’ve filled those up, we’ll be happy and have money. It’s probably the only restriction along with having to say no to people. We try not to when they come in and we are booked out. We’ll always try and be like, ‘Okay, let’s do something’, but for us, service needs to be impeccable.
There’s an element of creativity for her
There’s a reason why we named the
home’. But the location we are in (Sunshine
and for me [Jade] in front of house. I’m
restaurant Humble on Duke and it’s because
Beach, Queensland) isn’t quite ready for such
really getting into a rhythm with the wine list
we’re unpretentious about service. Quite a
a small, intimate venue, so we made it 14
and there are so many beautiful Australian
few people say, ‘I’ve never been greeted like
seats. It’s very tiny, but sometimes we have to
winemakers and vineyards. I think being small
that at a restaurant’, which is really nice.
make it 12 or 13 depending on what the table
gives us the freedom to do that.
Because we’re small, we literally know who’s
numbers are. Stacey can change the menu over the 14 | Hospitality
People always say to us, ‘Our money’s in the numbers’, but there have been several
coming through the door. Everyone says they feel like they’re in our home. ■
TABASCO® Sauce Chef Jason Anderson serves up a modern take on a classic featuring TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce. JASON ANDERSON IS the head chef at Buffalo Bar in Brisbane, a restaurant that specialises in classic American dishes. Anderson’s innovative cooking style champions the use of hearty flavours including TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce. The sauce is made with red peppers aged in oak barrels along with high-quality distilled vinegar and salt. Inspired by food trends from the ’70s, Anderson blends his love for steak sandwiches and carpetbag steak in a contemporary surf and turf dish. “It’s a Black Opal Wagyu sirloin with a six-plus marble score which is grilled,” says the chef. The sirloin is punctuated with an acidic side and a creamy sauce, resulting in a balanced flavour profile. “To add some sharpness in the dish, we make a salad with dill, house pickles, onions and soft herbs,” says Anderson. “We also smoke garlic and blend it through an aioli to give a bit of creaminess.” The final component of the dish is a blowtorched oyster marinated in green peppercorn Worcestershire, TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce and honey. “It’s sort of like a Kilpatrick mixed with a peppercorn sauce, but it’s made into more of a vinaigrette,” says Anderson. “I like to finish it off at the end by glazing the oyster with TABASCO® Original Red Pepper Sauce. As we all know, it’s a marriage made in heaven.” ■
Scan the code to watch how the dish is made
September 2021 | 15
ADVERTORIAL // TABASCO® Brand
Wagyu sirloin and oyster with
DRINKS // Martinis
Sophistication
in a glass No one knows exactly when the first martini was made, but the strides its taken since inception are unrivalled. WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY DS Oficina for Maybe Sammy
THE MARTINI IS a drink that has stood the test
originally made with sweet vermouth and some
with local or imported spirits and served with an
martini,” says Madrusan. “But the martini as
of time. It can be wet, dry, dirty or filthy; made
olive or a citrus twist. It’s taken on various forms since its inception and is equally lauded for its simplicity and versatility.
Hospitality speaks to Maybe Mae’s Ollie
Margan, The Everleigh’s Michael Madrusan and Maybe Sammy’s Martin Hudak about the most
common iterations of the martini, their spirits of choice and tips to achieve a flawless execution.
would say the Martinez was actually the original we know it today with gin and dry vermouth is
probably the most popular recipe to hold true.” When it comes to the foundational components of a martini, gin is the most favoured, with
vodka swapped in upon guest request. In the latter instance, the drink would be called a vodka martini.
Maybe Mae Co-Owner and Bartender Ollie
The martini is instantly recognisable; not only
Margan isn’t against using vodka, but says
comprises just two elements: dry vermouth and
definitely lean more towards classic-style gins,”
by its namesake glass, but by the clear elixir that gin or vodka.
The cocktail is perhaps the most foundational
in the bartending world, and like all the classics, it has a highly disputable origin story. Made in
the Shade Group Co-Owner Michael Madrusan is
gin lends itself better to the drink overall. “I
he says. “While you can make a lovely, clean,
textural drink with vodka, I prefer to have that
extra savoury, oily complexity you get with those high-juniper spirits.”
Maybe Sammy’s Martin Hudak prefers to
of the belief cocktail origins should be taken with
use Roku vodka when a customer calls for the
the martini’s birthday sits somewhere between
because we try to please everyone,” he says. “But
a grain of salt. The Everleigh bartender estimates 1860 and 1870. “When it comes to drinks like [the martini], there is no real definitive origin
of the drink itself,” he says. “Because they are so old, the origins are a bit murky.”
It’s quite possible the martini evolved from
the Martinez; a similar drink made with sweet vermouth. “Some would say the martini was 16 | Hospitality
spirit. “We make any drink as the guest requires
if you ask which one we make more of, we make more gin martinis than vodka martinis. We have around 30−40 different gins.”
Purists typically stock their bars with London
dry gins such as Beefeater and Tanqueray as
well as Plymouth, but the boom in local spirits has seen bartenders experiment with some
Never, Four Pillars, Archie Rose, Anther and Melbourne Gin Company are the
says Margan, who also stocks Margan dry vermouth at Maybe Mae.
most commonly used brands, but some
Executing the basics makes all the
their sleeve. Madrusan tips Cadenhead’s
martini and one that keeps guests coming
venues have a more unique offering up
Old Raj as his go-to, but it’s not easy to
get your hands on. “It’s quite a boozy gin and it has a really high proof, which I
absolutely love in a martini,” he says. “But it’s not widely known here; you have to find it in specialty stores.”
The vermouth is of equal importance
as the gin, with Noilly Prat and Dolin the
most prevalent at bars. “Dolin has a really clean, great profile with not too many
complicated aromatics; it just makes for a really nice, bright, gin-focused drink,”
difference between creating an average back. Temperature is a key pressure
point, with bartenders encouraged to chill
temperatures. “You want to keep them
frozen or in the fridge as much as you can,”
he says. “We use stainless-steel mixing tools because they hold temperature better than glass and the transfer of temperature is
faster, so your drink is going to get much colder faster when you’re stirring.”
Selecting the right ice is the next step
cocktail-making equipment to ensure a
to ensuring a constant chill. Madrusan is
everything as cold as humanly possible,”
a boutique hand-cut ice company. Navy
controlled process. “You’re looking to have says Margan. “You want your mixer —
whether it’s a stainless-steel cocktail shaker or a glass vessel — to be cold before you
put anything in it. Storing the glass in the
the brains behind Navy Strength Ice Co; Strength make ice with Clineblock ice
makers, which are globally recognised for producing unrivalled results.
The bartender favours the use of an
freezer is also a great idea.”
anchor block to get things started. “We
and stirring spoons to maintain low
dilution is a lot slower and there’s no gas,”
Hudak works with stainless-steel shakers
“The martini is the classiest cocktail ever; it’s constant.” – Martin Hudak
use very dense crystal-clear ice; its rate of
says Madrusan. “We use a large block to go down the middle first and it starts to chill the ingredients. Then we add more and more ice all the way to the top.”
Mardrusan also prefers to add the ice
to the spirits mix. “If you’re adding liquid over your ice, it’s already starting to melt Hudak uses dry sherry in place of vermouth to add saltiness and umami to his martini
and dilute and that gives you a lot less
control when you’re actually making the drink,” he says.
A drink that’s as straightforward as the
martini leaves plenty of room to venture beyond the foundational formula.
Different iterations see everything from
mini versions to the addition of herbs or alternate spirits.
Maybe Sammy has a dedicated martini
trolley, with bartenders mixing two
options for guests: a classic dry or an
Australian dirty martini. “In the Martini Australian, we’re using a blend of
vermouths infused with mango and lemon myrtle,” says Hudak. “If we’re doing a dirty martini, it’s usually made with a
salty olive brine, but we infuse our own
blend of vermouths with Italian sundried tomatoes, thyme and oregano.”
In addition to the trolley, the bar also
has a mini cocktail menu that allows guests to try a selection of options. Hudak says customers who typically steer clear of
stronger cocktails such as the martini are
more open to a condensed version. “When
we were thinking about introducing classic cocktails to a wider audience, we came up with the idea to serve mini cocktails,” he
September 2021 | 17
DRINKS // Martinis
more botanical-heavy options. Never
DRINKS // Martinis Margan likes his martini with 50ml gin, 20ml dry vermouth and a generous dash of orange bitters
says. “The small martini is exactly the right size and is the perfect opportunity to show younger demographics the beautiful world of cocktails. In 2019, we sold 1,000 mini
cocktails; people really like them, it’s like a tasting for them.”
In addition to downsizing, there are plenty
of ingredient substitutions to look at. The Everleigh delivers a number of cocktails
that could be called cousins of the martini including the Tuxedo Number Two, which uses maraschino and absinthe. Another
popular order is Death and Taxes, a drink
that combines gin, scotch, sweet vermouth and Benedictine.
There are also some minor additions that
go a long way to altering the flavour profile
of the martini. “There are simple tweaks that are really easy and can change the drink
entirely,” says Madrusan. “The little tweaks are sometimes the most fun; you can add some
mint leaves just before you’re about to stir and it creates a completely different drink.” Margan prefers to break down the
composition of a martini into spirit, fortified wine base and modifier, leaving plenty of
room for experimentation. “We change ours quite a lot; what we like to work with is
ways to bring in mouthfeel and texture,” he
says. “Subbing out vermouth for sake, which is fermented with different yeast strains,
has an enhanced umami character. You can increase the perceived texture of the drink 18 | Hospitality
“You can increase the perceived texture of the drink by using something with umami.” – Ollie Margan
Taste rich & full flavours.
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DRINKS // Martinis
The boilermaker menu at The Everleigh sees a mini martini served with a Deeds Brewing draught lager
by using something with umami; it’s why olive brine is used a lot.”
The bar team makes salted ferments in-
house to effectively ‘season’ the drink. “It’s the incorporation of salt by way of lactic
fermentation using things like tomatoes and
different berries,” says Margan. “A few drops to a drink brings out certain elements of the gin and creates a generous mouthfeel.”
Garnishes are also a tool that can yield big
results with minimal intervention. Madrusan lists the Gibson as not only a great example,
but “the coolest martini in town”. In place of a lemon twist or an olive, a pickled onion is
added. “It brings a savoury sharpness to the drink itself,” he says.
As cocktail menus continue to become more
creative and elaborate, martinis remain a staple for bartenders and customers. The drink has been around since the beginning of cocktail culture, but it’s experienced somewhat of a resurgence over the past year as customers
appreciate the simple things done well. “The martini is the classiest cocktail ever; it’s
constant,” says Hudak. “It’s like a perfect pair of shoes or a tailored suit.”
The booming local gin sector has also played
a role in keeping the martini front and centre.
“I think the uptake of people being interested in martinis is on the back of us doing some pretty special things in the gin industry at large in
Australia,” says Margan. “The ultimate way of
consuming [gin] in cocktail form would have to be the martini.”
At The Everleigh, the martini is not just a part
of the menu, but at the core of the business.
“It’s always been a bit of a staple for us,” says
Madrusan. “If we couldn’t make a martini, we
wouldn’t open the doors. I actually like closing my week with a martini. I think a beautiful
crisp, cold, clean drink is a great way to draw
the line between working and personal life.” ■
20 | Hospitality
“I think a beautiful crisp, cold, clean drink is a great way to draw the line between working and personal life.” – Michael Madrusan
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22 | Hospitality
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PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton 24 | Hospitality
Photography by Nikki To
PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton
Kylie Javier Ashton The Seiobo trailblazer is finding her feet in an industry she’s changed for the better. WORDS Annabelle Cloros IT’S ALL TOO common to associate a restaurant
four years and it felt like his restaurant because
pas has never been the case when it comes
Ashton. “When Paul got there, and because I
with the chef — and only the chef. But the faux to Momofuku Seiobo. It’s rare to think of the
Sydney fine diner without Kylie Javier Ashton
springing to mind. The general manager spent
nearly 10 years culminating a workplace culture where the notion of teamwork was on display
via chefs serving guests water and front of house plating up dishes in the kitchen.
Seiobo closed its doors just before the most
recent lockdown commenced, and with it came the end of a career-defining chapter; but more importantly, the chance to reflect and forge a
new path in the industry. Javier Ashton talks to Hospitality about the final months of Seiobo,
how the 2020 lockdown led to the restaurant
running at its peak and her plans for the future — they’re simply to dye for.
When Kylie Javier Ashton started at Momofuku Seiobo in 2012 as a restaurant manager, it
I was the second manager there,” says Javier
was more established, I felt confident and he
really pushed me forward. He was always like, ‘Kylie is a huge part of this’ whenever he did
media and that was key in people realising that it wasn’t just the chef. I’m really grateful for
that; you need those advocates in the kitchen
who say, ‘It’s not all about me — we have our
managers, too’. It was really nice to feel like I was heard.”
“As an industry, we have to realise that more does not mean more. It’s about what’s manageable and making it really good.” – Kylie Javier Ashton Carmichael spearheaded a completely
looked very different to the venue that just
new culinary direction at Seiobo which saw
in the kitchen; Ben Greeno was the executive
public’s attention in a big way. Despite his
closed. For one, there was no Paul Carmichael chef and Su Wong, the general manager. 2015 was the year everything changed. Carmichael
arrived and Javier Ashton was appointed GM, marking the start of a powerhouse pair that
stuck together until the restaurant’s final service in June.
The front-of-house professional was still
finding her place at Seiobo when Carmichael
took over, and his support and commitment to
creating a collaborative workplace was present from the get-go. “I worked with Ben for about
Caribbean cuisine capture the Sydney dining six-year tenure at Seiobo, some people thought the restaurant was Japanese — even in its
final weeks. “We had a family come in who had no idea what we were — they thought
everything was really spicy and didn’t tell us
at any point,” says Javier Ashton. “Most people don’t understand what Caribbean food is, fair
enough, but it’s spicy. People would commit to the $220 and be like, ‘Oh, I had no idea what that was going to be’.”
September 2021 | 25
PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton
Diner nuances aside, Javier Ashton compares Seiobo’s last months to being on a John Farnham tour. The restaurant announced its closure
in March and almost instantly booked out every service. “It was nice to finish everything on our own terms and have such a huge celebration; we had four months of craziness every night,” says Javier Ashton.
“People were having the time of their lives and it forced everybody to be in the moment; you’re never going to have this again, so just have fun
with it and enjoy it. It was so lovely. But emotionally, I was exhausted at
“It was incredible for me to be able to teach a whole team of chefs how to be waiters; it was probably one of my biggest achievements.” – Kylie Javier Ashton
the end of every week trying to make it really special for everybody.
“Paul and I had this conversation and he was like, ‘Kylie, you just
need to do your job and that’s enough — you don’t need to give your
left arm to someone and give them everything because they might not like it or you think that’s what you have to do for it to be special’. It
was good to have that realisation — I needed to stop trying so hard.” Seiobo’s last service was brought forward by one day due to the
implementation of COVID-19 restrictions in New South Wales. But in a way, it was a good thing. Javier Ashton likens it to ripping off
a band aid — short, relatively painless and adrenaline-fuelled. “For me personally, it was a blessing in disguise,” she says. “The whole
casino complex closed at midnight and they wanted everyone off the property at 10:00pm because they had to shut it all down. We knew
Photography by David Griffen
heaps of people were going to drop by, and while that’s nice, you still have to clean and pack down the restaurant.”
The team adjusted some bookings and ran a whirlwind service over
two sittings. “It was fast and furious — at 10pm we put down bills, got people to pay and were like, ‘You guys have to go!’ It was this
high, intense-energy service and then everyone just left — we had the opportunity to be with our team and clean. If we hadn’t been able to
open, it would have been cut short. So it was really nice to do our last service; it just sucks for the people who booked on the last night, but
they were mostly regulars who had experienced the restaurant and they were really understanding. It was a good finish to the restaurant.”
When Seiobo reopened after the 2020 lockdown, it returned as
an elevated entity that broke down barriers and emulated fluidity.
Rolling reservation times were gone; instead, there were two sittings at 5:45pm and 8:30pm across four days. “We were closed for four
months and it gave us so much time to think about the best thing for the restaurant reopening,” says Javier Ashton. “We needed to model so we could be sustainable based on creating the same experience and vibe with half the amount of guests and staff. We wanted to
be able to condense the days and give the team time to recover. As an industry, we have to realise that more does not mean more. It’s about what’s manageable and making it really good.”
The restaurant ran with a smaller team of 11 staff; three of which
were front of house (FOH). Not that you would know it. Javier
Ashton and her husband Luke Ashton tie-dyed the Seiobo uniforms,
which were worn by all staff. “We changed our uniform so it was all
the same — we were one team,” says Javier Ashton. “It was great for
the guys because it gave them a sense of equality and empowerment.” The GM also set about rejigging the service structure, leading to
chefs being equipped with a whole new skillset. “We taught all of our chefs how to do front of house,” says Javier Ashton. “They set, they
cleared, they did water, they did bills — they pretty much functioned as FOH as well. It was incredible for me to be able to teach a whole 26 | Hospitality
www.si
mplotf oodser vice.co m.au
PROFILE // Kylie Javier Ashton
team of chefs how to be waiters; it was probably
one of my biggest achievements. Paul was a huge part of that; he would open the door and was
basically the host and people were so blown away. He would polish glasses in the bar every night. Anybody in the restaurant could jump in and
help at any point. It’s probably one of our biggest achievements to knock down the foundations,
break those rules and make it work. If there are no boundaries and those lines are blurred, you
become a more efficient business. I’m really proud of the restaurant we reopened. We did what we thought was right and it was the restaurant we
always wanted to run. But we never knew how to get there because you’re just keeping something alive; it’s hard to change direction.”
such a huge part of me, it was like being in a
After the buzz subsides, reflection almost always
restaurant right now,” she says. “It’s nice to have
follows; especially after a major life event. Javier Ashton has been a driving force within the
industry when it comes to championing front of house — whether it’s fostering in-house talent or participating in initiatives such as Appetite
for Excellence. It’s a change that’s absolutely still in motion, but one she has no doubt been a key
relationship, so I’m not ready to be in another
a job where it’s more of a job and that’s what I’m trying to do, but knowing me, things are never
like that. I want to have some more time to give
back to the industry and be involved in things in a different capacity and not feel like it’s an extra thing I need to do.”
She’s also taken up tie-dying, a 2020
player in. “I think it’s so important to show people
lockdown activity that has resulted in the launch
important,” says Javier Ashton.
capsule collections of napkins and cushions.
and FOH that what we do in a restaurant is really “Sommeliers and bartenders are amazing at
promoting each other as professionals, but if
you’re FOH or a GM and your focus isn’t 100
per cent on wine, you’re at the bottom of the food chain when it comes to the hierarchy of
people who are seen in a restaurant. It’s great to
of KJ.LA; a brand that’s now selling hand-dyed
“We [Luke Ashton] started doing tie-dying as a creative project last lockdown and I’ve started my own brand,” says Javier Ashton. “People
started asking if they could buy things and it’s become a side hustle.”
represent FOH in that way and bring attention to
Doing the same thing for close to a decade leads
more attention.”
Putting the security blanket away naturally results
that part of the industry and people are paying
The work is something she hopes to build on
now Seiobo has closed, but some timeout and breathing space away from restaurants is also on the cards. Javier Ashton admits she can’t
help but give 110 per cent to everything, and
with unwavering passion comes a few hurdles.
“I think you can get a little bit blinded because
you’re so close to it all and invest everything; it can take some of the shine away,” she says. “By not working in a restaurant, I can fall in love
with the industry a bit more and in a different way, which I’m really excited about.”
Javier Ashton is still employed by The Star
and is working with the food and beverage department. She’s not in a rush to lock in
her next move and is well overdue to move into cruise mode for a while. “Seiobo was 28 | Hospitality
to a level of routine, comfort and familiarity.
in a level of uncertainty, but more importantly, it provides opportunity. “When you’ve done a job
for nine years, you know what’s expected of you,”
says Javier Ashton. “Even when it’s hard and scary, you’re with your people and you’re in control of your destiny to a certain degree. It can become
unhealthy when you don’t feel like you have an
identity outside of your job and that’s something
I’ve been working on the past year; to not define
myself by what I do for work and to be comfortable in myself regardless of whether or not I’m the GM of Seiobo. I need to be able to stand on my own
two feet and feel confident without the restaurant as a crutch. I don’t think I’m there yet; it’s going to be a journey over the next few months to get
there. It’s nice to find out who I am again outside of Seiobo. Now it’s done, it was really good, but I need to move on.” ■
“It’s nice to find out who I am again outside of Seiobo.” – Kylie Javier Ashton
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FEATURE // Lobster
A pinch of luxury Seafood suppliers and chefs talk lockdown crustaceans and why they’re coveting menus in a big way. WORDS Annabelle Cloros
AUSTRALIAN LOBSTERS ARE in abundance. A tight export
market has resulted in a plethora of high-quality produce that’s not leaving our shores, which means chefs can get their hands
on the best of the best for a relatively accessible price point. But restaurants and suppliers are doing things a little differently
due to the current lockdown in Sydney and parts of New South Wales, delivering lobsters in boxes instead of plates.
Hospitality speaks to Richard and Thuy Pinson from Red
Claw Seafoods about how they are continuing to support
fishermen and restaurants while tapping into a new consumer
base along with Chefs Brent Savage and Tristan Rosier, who are offering diners something special in a challenging climate.
Richard and Thuy Pinson are behind Red Claw Seafoods in
Sydney; a premium supplier that delivers everything from live lobsters to crabs and pipis straight to New South Wales’ top
restaurants. The Pinsons are the exclusive seafood suppliers to groups such as Merivale and Crown Sydney and supply
many other venues, but their regular operations changed when
restaurants were forced to shutter in response to the pandemic. The initial 2020 closures also happened to overlap with the
shutdown of the export market to China, which meant lobsters were not only abundant, but significantly cheaper.
While Red Claw sends products overseas, supplying local
restaurants is a core part of its business model, which means the Pinsons were able to continue taking seafood from 30 | Hospitality
campaign across select Merivale venues. “It
shutdown, we were supporting our fishermen
market we previously had, but it did keep the
hands and in their boats. “When we had the first who didn’t have China anymore,” says Richard.
“There are some fishermen who relied on export only and didn’t look after the domestic trade.
The night before [lockdown], we’d taken a full boatload and found our friends in hospitality
were very supportive in terms of buying them directly. Our direct sales started by supplying members of the hospitality industry.”
Friends and family of hospitality workers were
fishermen in work,” says Richard. “Domestically, the price of lobsters dropped significantly
and it encouraged people attending our client restaurants to order live who hadn’t before.
It created demand because diners were able
to order live over frozen without a great price
differential. We found that once they tried live, they didn’t go back.”
keen to have access to products that typically
With the majority of restaurants in New South
environment. “We’d offer them to people who
decided to make their catch available direct to
wouldn’t be available to them beyond a restaurant we already knew and they were getting orders
from their friends and family, so we were moving lobsters that way,” says Thuy. “It wasn’t like we needed to make money, it was more, ‘Let’s just
move them and make people happy’. When we
finished the boatload, we thought we’d better do the right thing and stay home.”
Fortunately, restaurants in New South Wales
were able to reopen after a relatively short
lockdown, and the bounce-back was strong — as was the demand for luxury dining experiences. Cirrus's bug roll
didn’t replace or even partly replace the export
Red Claw rolled out a lobster and Champagne
Wales closed for dine in once again, Red Claw
consumers for the first time — and the demand
has been healthy. “Because we had the previous
experience with people reaching out to us when
[the first lockdown] happened, we thought we’d
try and accommodate it again and do contactless deliveries,” says Richard. “From our point of
view, it’s not motivated by any commercial goal; it’s about continuing to serve the dining public and look out for fishermen.”
Consumers are able to order restaurant-quality
seafood to their doors, and they’re frankly
getting incredible bang for their buck despite
“It’s not motivated by any commercial goal; it’s about continuing to serve the dining public and look out for fishermen.” – Richard Pinson
September 2021 | 31
FEATURE // Lobster
fishermen who had surplus product on their
FEATURE // Lobster
the challenging environmental conditions. “Winter is traditionally a time where lobsters are more expensive because they’re harder to catch,” says Thuy. “There’s still a bit of export going on, but there’s enough catch to make it cheap; the price is reasonably
low and affordable for people, which was another motivation to
get it out there. We thought we’d test fire it and the response was overwhelming, so we just kept rolling and it’s been a lot of fun seeing people post their dishes on Instagram.”
Red Claw have called on the expertise of Executive Chefs Dan
Hong (Mr. Wong, Establishment precinct, Queen Chow, Ms. G’s) and Jordan Toft (Mimi’s, Bert’s) to create informational videos
on how to handle live seafood as well as provide some guidance on dish preparation. “It’s one thing to go out and catch it, but to be able to respect a live animal, kill it humanely and then
cook it is very grounding,” says Thuy. “We get requests to kill
or split lobsters and we say no because it takes away from the
live experience. I think it’s important to do it yourself a bit more
[instead of] having everything cleaned and pre-packaged. There’s a lot of appreciation for food when you go through that process.” Chefs are also getting in on the lobster action. The Bentley Group Co-Owner Brent Savage observed a shift in customer dining
behaviours post-lockdown (round one) at his restaurants Cirrus and Bentley; one where customers were looking to treat themselves. “People want to make an experience out of their time now and lobsters at Cirrus have been more popular,” says the chef. “It’s
always been popular, but now it’s a menu item we can’t take off.” For dine in, Cirrus takes pre-orders for live lobsters that are
Brent Savage
“People want to make an experience out of their time now and lobsters at Cirrus have been more popular.” – Brent Savage
served with a choice of salted duck egg yolk, chilli and tarragon,
black pepper sauce or brown butter and citrus. “It’s a case where
the fresh lobster is cooked and served with butter and fries on the side to make it very simple,” says Savage. Lobster is also available by request at Bentley. “A couple of times a week, people would be asking for an off-menu lobster item,” says Savage. “It might be more luxurious and done in two or three parts.”
Customers looking for takeaway dishes with a difference should
pay attention to Tristian Rosier’s Arthur restaurant. The Surry
Hills venue recently added lobster to the to-go menu, with the
crustacean featuring in an upgraded cod and scallop pie. “There are people looking to enjoy cheaper takeaway meals and then there are customers who have plenty of disposable income they can’t spend on dining out or travel, so premium product such as lobster is a
real treat,” says the chef. “We have regulars who love our premium products, so we look to see where we can include them.”
Rosier also has plans to add lobster to the menu when dine-
in resumes, which will be a new addition. “When we return to
Arthur’s normal offering, we’ll be keen to explore lobster on the menu as one of our additional courses,” says the chef.
The significant price drop has made purchasing lobster more
viable for restaurants; however, it is still a high-end product at the
end of the day. Savage works with a number of suppliers to secure the best deal, preferring to use eastern rock lobsters at Cirrus. “I think the cold waters of Tasmania produce the best lobsters in
the world, but we often get them locally off the New South Wales 32 | Hospitality
Lobster from Red Claw Seafoods
NEW
www.nestlepro fessional.com.a u/harvest-gourm et
FEATURE // Lobster
eastern coast,” says the chef. “Everyone puts a
a takeaway format, but it’s something that
notice a change around the time of the export
and error. The group’s restaurants were some
buyers; we’re looking for the best price. We did ban and they were significantly cheaper for a
has recently begun servicing the city and
Christmas [2020]. They’re still consistently
surrounding areas in New South Wales and
cheaper than they have been previously, but
Canberra. “We’re doing a lobster roll at Cirrus
they’re still a luxury item and never what you
at the moment with bay lobster, which is bug
would call ‘cheap’ — but it’s cheap for what
meat really,” he says. “We’re not currently
you’re getting and what you could be paying.”
offering eastern lobsters, but it’s something we
Lobster has historically been out of budget
would consider. I find lobsters are best when
for Arthur, but the restaurant has started to
they’re killed fresh and served. I’m not sure
showcase the crustacean along with other
shellfish due to the price plunge. “We source our
Century have
lobsters from Tasmania, New South Wales and
bottled their XO sauce to
Cirrus
sell with live
are selling
pippies from
a takeaway
Red Claw
bug roll
Western Australia through Martinʼs Seafood and
prices have
put lobster
decreased
on the menu
due to the
when dine-in
export market
resumes
sitting around because they can take on
ammonia really quickly and they can spoil. If
there as a luxurious product, I want to believe
definitely dropped at the end of 2020, but have
stabilised somewhat. Generally, when everything
comes to a halt, the prices drop to clear the stock their fishing. But the price reduction itself means
Arthur will
how it sits with me ethically having something
I’m going to put our name to it and put it out
Red Claw Seafoods,” says Rosier. “The prices
and then it comes up slightly as fishermen reduce
Lobster
requires much thought and likely some trial of the first to join Providoor Sydney, which
while, but they shot back up like crazy around
Golden
Savage hasn’t ruled out using lobster in
market price on them and it’s the same for us as
that by the time it gets to the customer, it’s in the best-possible state. When we reopen, we
will continue to run lobster as a feature item on our menus.”
There might not be a concrete date set for the
it’s a much more achievable product for us to
reopening of Sydney restaurants just yet, but if
we can look to use it on our takeaway menu. If
will be eager to sit down at tables outside their
use. With it being the price it is now, it’s great as the prices were as high as they were previously,
we don’t think it would be achievable as people may not pay that price for a takeaway meal.”
the last emergence is anything to go by, diners four walls and enjoy memorable experiences. And what could be better than an expertly prepared lobster? The answer is two. ■
Arthur's takeaway lobster
34 | Hospitality
www.markwellf
oods.com.au
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FEATURE // Pour over
It’s all in the pour Rediscovering pour-over coffee and its distinct flavour profiles. WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Elize Strydom for Artificer POUR OVER IS a technique known for its simplicity. It’s one of
the earliest coffee-making processes around, but was ultimately overshadowed by the espresso machine. Once lost in a craze of
long blacks, lattes and flat whites, pour over is making a return to specialty cafes across Sydney and Melbourne.
Former Australian Brewers Cup participants and specialty
coffee retailers Daniel Yee and Devin Loong speak to Hospitality about the world of filter coffee, how to get the best out of pour over and its reemergence in the Australian coffee scene.
Ona’s Devin Loong has made a career out of the filter method.
He believes pour over is the purist’s way of enjoying coffee, with the technique celebrating the key distinctions of coffee beans. “Filter coffee or pour over started to become more popular
around eight years ago when there was a rise in single-origin
coffees,” he says. “It’s a true representation of the coffee, and in a way, it’s not so intense. It highlights the nuances of coffee.”
Daniel Yee from Sydney’s Artificer echoes the sentiment. “If
you’re having a coffee as an espresso, it’s big in flavour, but it
can often hide nuance,” he says. “With filter coffee, it’s a gentle kind of brew. As it’s cooling, you can taste a lot more of the
sweetness and acidity. I like it because it’s approachable. People who don’t usually drink black coffee drink filter coffee or pourover coffee because it’s easy.”
There isn’t a comparison when it comes to pour-over
equipment. The unique and often visually appealing pieces set
the process apart for both consumers and baristas. Brewers for pour overs come in a plethora of different materials including 38 | Hospitality
Daniel Yee
100% Australian made 100% Vegan
FEATURE // Pour over
“With filter coffee, it’s a gentle kind of brew. As it’s cooling, you can taste a lot more of the sweetness and acidity.” – Daniel Yee
plastic, glass, metal or copper, but they all
he says. “If I’m doing a pour over for myself, I’ll
Loong names the Hario V60 as the most
of coarse; it would be a medium grind. It would
achieve a similar outcome.
prominent when it comes to pour-over
equipment. Known for its premium glass and
look like coarse table salt.”
ceramic materials, Hario was founded in Japan
The method of making pour-over coffee can be a
“When people are talking about pour over, they
to keep it as simple as the concept itself. As a two-
and quickly became the go-to for filter brews. are talking about the V60,” says Loong.
Yee prefers to use a Kalita, in particular, the
wave filters. “It’s similar to a lot of batch brewers and we use it for its simplicity; it’s forgiving
in the pour,” he says. “You don’t have to be so
particular in how you apply the water to get a good cup of coffee.”
Pour-over coffee gives baristas the opportunity
fiddly process if it’s not executed right. The key is time champion of the Australian Brewers Cup,
Loong has created a namesake technique known as the ‘Loong pour’. His method has simplified the pour over in a way that allows baristas to
focus more on control and technical skill. “It was
developed because I had too many baristas doing too many steps,” he says. “The more steps, the higher the chance of screwing it up.”
Blooming is essential in ensuring the coffee
to show off the quality of the beans, which
grinds are saturated and undergo a release
are crucial in getting it right. Yee usually opts
CO2, so we want to release the CO2 from the
is why the consistency of the grind and ratio
for a lighter roast. “I prefer highlighting more
fruit and acidity in my coffees,” he says. “I find that more interesting than just ‘coffee coffee’. Basically, trying to find coffees that are sweet and generally more acidic.”
The grind is dependent on the desired
extraction. Loong believes there is no right or
wrong way, but he has a specific rule of thumb: “The finer you go, the easier it is to extract the flavours,” he says. “The coarser you go, the harder it is to extract the flavours.”
Yee maintains a go-to ratio and consistency for
his pour overs. “There’s a semi-universal ratio
we use, which is about 6g of coffee per 100ml,” 40 | Hospitality
put 18g of coffee. Generally, it’s on the finer side
process. “When coffee is roasted, it produces
coffee; we’re not trying to fight against the CO2 to extract the coffee,” says Loong. In the initial
process of blooming, the Loong pour requires a
ratio of 15 grams of coffee to 50 grams of water. As the water is poured to create the bloom,
the coffee bubbles and a slurry-like mixture is created before being agitated with a spoon to allow the water to travel through.
Monitoring water temperature is also a critical
step to nailing the technique. “When you’re
doing pour overs, I think one of the things [to
consider] is the temperature drop,” says Yee. “We don’t realise as soon as the water is boiled in a
kettle or whatnot, the temperature is dropping
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FEATURE // Pour over The 60 in V60 refers to the V-shaped filter holder which sits at a 60-degree angle
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rapidly.” Both baristas use water that sits at a
temperature between 94–97 degrees Celsius to extract the most out of a grind. Coffee is said to have originated from the ancient coffee forests in Ethiopia
Baristas also need to maintain a steady stream
when carrying out the rest of the pour. “You let it bloom for 30 seconds and then pour in the middle for a few seconds and the coffee and
water slurry will lift up a little bit,” says Loong.
“When you pour in the middle and hold it there,
Artificer sell their own online and in-store
a process that requires training and technique.
“More and more people want it and less and less places want to do it,” says Loong, who believes some venues are deterred from the labourintensive process.
Although the barista encourages venues to
consider adding pour over to their repertoire,
an even-coloured bit on the top.”
instead look at batch brew as a potential option
Compared to other coffee-making methods,
pour over delivers an end product with a lighter flavour profile. “With pour over, you’re getting
more transparent flavours carried across,” says
he says it’s best not to jump straight in and
first. Not only is it cheaper, but it takes less time to make. “I think batch brew is a good way to get people to start appreciating filter coffee,” says Loong.
Yee. “They are more delicate and it also depends
The growing selection of coffee beans in
So if your coffee isn’t particularly good, it’ll
spoiled for choice. Loong is an advocate for the
on the transparency of the coffee you’re using.
show. There’s more transparency in all regards
as opposed to an espresso, where you can hide a
lot of faults behind the intensity or even if you’re going to dump 300ml of milk on top of it.” Pour over has yet to really boom in the
specialty coffee market despite its popularity in a home environment. 42 | Hospitality
becoming a more popular order. However, it’s
the stream pierces through the slurry, brings it
up and it slowly goes round and round, creating seasonal coffee beans
But the consumer shift towards reducing or
forgoing dairy altogether has led to pour over
Australia means specialty coffee vendors are
pour over, which is a technique that’s all about slowing down. “The espresso machine is made to go faster and the pour over is like the old
method; it’s slower and [it’s a way to] really
enjoy the coffee,” he says. “It’s a little bit more
of an experience and there’s a story behind it, so pour over gives you more of a chance to provide an experience to the customer.” ■
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FEATURE // Tempeh
44 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Tempeh
Making new traditions Tempeh has evolved since its inception in Java, Indonesia, but its roots are preserved through the work of modern chefs. WORDS Aristine Dobson
IF YOU WERE to order tempeh in Indonesia,
Bar chef has a background in food science,
chilli sauce or served as is with white fluffy
to making tempeh. “My mission is to introduce
it would be battered, doused in sweet soy and rice. But in Australia, tempeh is most embraced as a plant-based alternative. The fermented ingredient has plenty of unlocked potential
across multiple cuisines and is just waiting for chefs to take the plunge.
Hospitality talks to Ferments Lab’s Darwin Su
and Balinese Spice Magic’s Juliana Mitry about recreating the taste of home and introducing a
sacred, long-guarded recipe into the mainstream culinary world.
When Juliana Mitry opened Balinese Spice
Magic in Wollongong, her goal was to showcase
local produce while maintaining the authenticity of Indonesian cooking. “We do everything
traditionally; I don’t use any machinery,” says
Mitry. “Anything that’s still connected to humans or connected to feeling will be much better than
which has been incredibly useful when it comes tempeh and educate people that it can be a versatile ingredient,” he says.
When it comes to making tempeh, the process of fermentation can be unpredictable and is
dependent on temperature and timing, which
is why preparation is crucial. While Su honours the traditional method, the Australian climate is vastly different to the tropical weather in
Indonesia, which means ingredient adjustments need to be made to achieve the best-possible
outcome. “We use a lot of split chickpeas, split
soybeans or split green peas,” says the chef. “With split beans and peas, it’s easier to cook and there is less soaking time. But if you use the whole beans, you need to soak them for at least 12
hours, but I normally do it for about 24 hours.”
Different beans can be used to make tempeh,
putting it through machines.”
but each type needs to be treated according to its
an artisan tempeh brand called Tempeh Temple,
from adzuki and mung beans to chickpeas, lentils
Alongside her restaurant, Mitry has launched
which aims to educate consumers on the benefits of sourcing fresh, locally made products. “You can get tempeh from the Asian shop or big
supermarkets, but it’s been in storage for a while coming from Indonesia or it’s processed,” says Mitry. “Whereas now there are a lot of young
tempeh makers who give you real tempeh that tastes close to Indonesian tempeh.”
Darwin Su had a similar goal when he started
his side business Ferments Lab. The Banh Xeo
characteristics. Mitry experiments with everything
“My mission is to introduce tempeh and educate people that it can be a versatile ingredient.” – Darwin Su
and hemp seeds. After soaking, the legumes are
dried in the sun before vinegars and bacteria are added to begin the fermentation process. “We
use the natural temperature rather than forced
temperature,” says Mitry. “In winter, it generally
takes about 36 to 40 hours, but you get the most perfect tempeh because it’s slowly incubating.”
Tempeh is fermented with a bacterium known
as Rhizopus oligosporus, which comes in the
form of a starter. “Some people will refer to it September 2021 | 45
FEATURE // Tempeh as yeast, but a tempeh starter is not actually yeast; it’s little, live microbes that have got rise,” says Mitry. “The microbes are like bacteria that eat through the beans.”
Su opts to feed the bacteria with apple cider vinegar. “It’s just
to reduce the pH of the beans, so the bad bacteria won’t grow,” he
says “Rhizopus can grow in a lower pH [and the vinegar] prevents cross-contamination.”
Su has a bespoke incubator which he uses for the fermentation
process. “Traditionally in Indonesia, they use banana leaves and they can just leave it outside because the room temperature is
already about 30 to 33 degrees Celsius, which is perfect for the
bacteria,” he says. “But because [Sydney] isn’t tropical, you need
to have a constant temperature of 29 to 32 degrees Celsius for the bacteria to grow.”
The chef lets his tempeh sit for 36 hours at a constant
temperature of 30 degrees Celsius. After 20–24 hours, the lid is taken off and the tempeh is exposed to the air. At this point, it produces its own heat.
In terms of storage, tempeh lasts for a maximum of seven to 10 days when kept in the fridge. After the first few days, its
appearance will start to change. “Sometimes my customers freak out a bit with the colour if they are not familiar with tempeh,”
says Su. “The colour will change on the surface; fresh tempeh has
a perfect white mould, but in around three days, you will see some yellow and maybe some black spots, which is completely fine. The black spots are just spores from the bacteria; it shows the tempeh is mature and has reached its peak flavour-wise.”
46 | Hospitality
“I don’t know if it’s because I’m superstitious, but where I grew up, making tempeh is basically making food from the heart.” – Juliana Mitry
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FEATURE // Tempeh Rhizopus oligosporus Tempeh is
is a bacterial fungus
typically made
known to enhance
from soy beans
plant-based foods
Tempeh originates
Traditionally, tempeh
from the Java
is wrapped in
islands in the city
banana leaves
of Yogyakarta
during incubation
In the same way as tofu, tempeh can be
cater to various types of diets, with
and vegan dishes. But it has yet to
the artisan tempeh. “They’re happy to
used as a building block in vegetarian make a breakthrough in the culinary industry despite its potential. Mitry and Su have set out to introduce
tempeh to other chefs and change their
perceptions on its uses. “I haven’t really
vegans and meat eaters alike enjoying choose a variety of tempeh rather than go for meat, chicken and pork,” says Mitry. “Most people have been very positive about it.”
seen tempeh in a restaurant before,”
When it comes to tempeh, there is a
cafes, they’re sort of reluctant to use it.
perfect example of science and patience.
says Su. “When I speak to bosses in
People don’t know much about tempeh yet, so I think they’re a bit worried about whether they can sell it.”
One of the key benefits of tempeh
is that it can be used in other cuisines besides traditional Indonesian food. “Recently, I made a classic Italian
dish with cod fish and pea cream, but instead of the cod, I used tempeh,” says Su.
Balinese Spice Magic’s tempeh dishes
48 | Hospitality
degree of uncertainty, but it truly is the In its first stages, there are only a few elements that can be controlled, and
in the end, it’s up to nature to run its
course. “My rule of thumb is basically
like the three monkeys; no bad thoughts, no hearing bad things and no saying
bad things,” says Mitry. “And generally, it
always works. I don’t know if it’s because I’m superstitious, but where I grew up,
making tempeh is basically making food from the heart.” ■
FEATURE // Truffles
Groundhog day The 2021 truffle season has been a boon, but snap state closures have seen chefs seek alternate applications. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Squadrito for Matilda
2020 WAS A write-off for many industries.
Braidwood farm in the Southern Tablelands of
environmental events resulted in a tumultuous
of natural catastrophes beginning with draughts
A combination of the pandemic teamed with
year for some of the most-lauded truffle farmers.
Fast-forward one year and the landscape couldn’t look more different. 2021 has seen a bumper
crop of truffles produced across the country. In
fact, word on the street is that there have never been more on the market.
However, snap restaurant closures have
thrown a spanner in the works, leaving chefs to innovate and repurpose the coveted fungus.
Hospitality speaks to Terra Preta Truffles’ Peter
before being faced with fires and floods. “Last year was terrible,” says Peter Marshall, who
decided to call it when his fences were collected not once, but twice. “We had fires down to the
truffle patch and shortly after we had a gigantic
flood that washed ash from the forests down and took away the fences,” he says. “By the time we put them back, there was a second flood that took them away again.”
After waiting for Mother Nature to settle, the
Marshall and Matilda’s Aleksis Kalnins about
producer decided to lay the foundations for a
when you have 500g of truffle on your hands
advantage of the quiet to do maintenance and
the ebbs and flows of the season and what to do and a closed dining room.
To say Terra Preta Truffles went through a rough
patch last year would be an understatement. The 50 | Hospitality
New South Wales was faced with a triumvirate
better year. “We gave everything a rest and took pruning,” says Marshall. “Over the summer, the trees put a whole lot of sugar underground to feed the new group of truffle and it worked.”
Recent months have seen a raft of -6-degree
FEATURE // Truffles
nights, resulting in superior truffles that are highly coveted locally and overseas. “We’ve been exporting a lot and things are opening up in the US, the UK and parts of Europe, so it’s been very busy,”
says Marshall. “The trouble for us is the lack of flights, so we have a broker who keeps an eye on what planes are leaving and gets them on.”
There has been so much demand the farm has a wait list for
2022. “We’ve had new people calling on us, but this year we’ve
had to say, ‘Sorry we are already committed; but next year we can do it’. We have the reputation that we’re worth keeping on the list for next year.”
It’s certainly been a turnaround for Terra Preta, but it’s not to
say there haven’t been challenges. The farm is in the midst of
training a new litter of truffle hunting dogs. “We’ve only had two super-effective dogs this year; our first-generation dog Shadow is going into retirement and Sal passed away,” says Marshall.
“We have Shadow’s kids, so next year, we will have about seven. We train them to only indicate a truffle that’s exactly ready for
harvest. Our daughter Rita spends years training them properly.”
The absence of overseas workers has also limited harvest. “Our
trained truffle hunters are stuck in Italy,” says Marshall. “We’re all
exhausted from carrying the load. But next year will be easier with more workers and more dogs.”
Matilda in Melbourne is one of the restaurants that was able to put
Terra Preta truffles on their menu. Head Chef Aleksis Kalnins works
with two core suppliers to source truffles including fine food purveyor
“We have some trees that produce pungent truffles that mature quite quickly, so we’ve been dehydrating them to preserve the flavour.” – Peter Marshall
Friend & Burrell. “They supply most top restaurants and work closely with a few farms,” says the chef. “We only ask for A-grade, and Terra Preta truffles are probably my favourite; they’re so vibrant when
you cut them open. We also get them from Stonebarn in Western Australia through Robert [Perrone] from Senselle.”
Kalnins sticks with the crème de la crème of truffles, but has
noticed a shift in the market. “It’s going to be saturated quite soon, especially in Victoria,” he says. “It could be heresy, but
lots of people have been starting up farms, so there could be
an oversupply next season. We are quite lucky because we only use the highest quality. I feel like it might trickle down to other restaurants where people who don’t know any better might be getting lower-quality truffles.”
Inferior products have become more commonplace within the
industry, with Marshall encouraging chefs to do their research
on the farms their truffles come from. “There’s a lot of stuff out
there, and it varies from fine to dreadful quality,” he says. “We are
totally herbicide-free, and to me, that’s extremely important in the Australian industry. A lot of the farms use herbicide, which is not
registered for use with truffle; it gets in the soil and I’m convinced the truffles can take it in. Chefs aren’t really interested in a lot of the third-grade stuff.”
Matilda was set to host a series of truffle dinners with Friend &
Burrell, however a state lockdown pushed the event back. Kalnins found himself with around 500g of truffle on his hands and no plates to put them on, so he moved into preservation mode. “I diced them up with 2 per cent salt and put them in a vac-pack
September 2021 | 51
FEATURE // Truffles
“In my mind, a highend restaurant should have truffle on the menu at least twice during the season.” – Aleksis Kalnins bag for a few days,” he says. “Normally with
to do with soil type, orientation to the sun, the
air can get in but no bacteria can. But the bag
says Marshall. “We have some trees that produce
fermenting, you need a jar with a circulator so creates a sterile environment. It tastes amazing and it’s the perfect way to prolong their life. It
pronounces the flavour and the earthy aromas are massively accentuated throughout the process; it’s close to horseradish.”
Thankfully, Matilda was able to reschedule the
truffle dinner, with guests enjoying a multi-course menu showcasing different truffles. “I had special provenances picked for each dish,” says Kalnins.
Dishes for the dinner included wild mushroom
and truffle tart; smoked pork belly with shiitake, burnt spelt, lardo and truffle and mandarin
with white chocolate and truffle. The restaurant will continue to use truffle on the menu until supply comes to an end. “We have them as a
supplement and we are launching brunch, so
there will be truffle on there in a scrambled egg and hot smoked salmon dish,” says Kalnins. “I
species of the tree and the water in the soil,”
pungent truffles that mature quite quickly, so
we’ve been dehydrating them to preserve the
flavour. We’ve been putting sealed jars aside for when the fresh truffles cease production.”
Terra Preta hasn’t had any headaches moving
things with the product in spite of challenges. “Pasta Emilia in Sydney has pivoted towards
pasta kits using a lot of truffles and restaurants in Canberra have been very busy,” he says.
10 separate paddocks in production now and
they’re all different in flavour and quality; it’s 52 | Hospitality
The farm sterilise and peel truffles before sending them to chefs
“Melbourne was good up until the most recent
lockdown, but we have had chefs experimenting at home and working on new recipes for when they get back to work.”
One of the most intriguing aspects about
comes from a six-legged creature: “We have
preservation to extend availability. “We have
Mexican trees
says his clients have been doing marvellous
restaurant should have truffle on the menu at Terra Preta have also experimented with
Japanese and
being plunged into multiple lockdowns. Marshall
truffle season is that you just don’t know when
least twice during the season.”
French truffles onto
stock despite Sydney and Melbourne restaurants
think I’m also going to do a smoked gnocchi dish around black truffle; in my mind, a high-end
Terra Preta have inoculated
Matilda is serving a truffle and gnocchi dish
it’s over for the year. Terra Preta’s confirmation to finish when the ants start biting us,” says Marshall. In an email to Hospitality on 10
August, Marshall wrote springtime arrived
“unexpectedly and suddenly”, and confirmed the ants had indeed arrived. ■
Truffle season ends when the ants march in
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VIDEO // Behind the scenes
MISONO IN JW Marriott Gold Coast Resort & Spa is known for its spicy tuna roll which features a crunchy sweet tempura topping. Sous Chef Albert Bautista says it’s the ideal combination of sweet and salty and offers a unique spin on traditional sushi.
Ingredients Sliced and diced tuna Cucumber Pineapple pieces Tempura crumbs Chilli powder Spring onion Soy sauce Nori Sushi rice
Method 1. Spread rice onto a nori sheet and dust with chilli powder. 2. Turn the sheet over and place sliced tuna in the centre. 3. Thinly slice a cucumber into batons and place on top of the tuna before rolling the nori into shape with a bamboo mat. 4. Slice the roll and drizzle spicy mayonnaise on top. 5. In a bowl, add finely chopped tuna, tempura crumbs, spring onion and pineapple. Add chilli powder and a dash of soy sauce and combine together. 6. To serve, place the tuna mixture on top of each roll and add pickled ginger and wasabi to the side of the plate. Scan the QR code to watch the full video brought to you by Cookers
54 | Hospitality
Misono’s
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Some models have adjustable presses for fine or coarse results
56 | Hospitality
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5 MINUTES WITH … // Jock Zonfrillo
Jock Zonfrillo The chef on working with Marco Pierre White.
It quickly became apparent that the
When I walked in, I was given an apron
difference between a one-star and a three
and two tea towels by the saucier, a chef
WORDS Jock Zonfrillo PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied
in the morning and you’d be there until
two towels I’d be allowed to use the entire
ON MY FIRST day I was very much in
shift — and sometimes you got maybe
awe of the fact that I was working for Marco Pierre White, this godlike chef
whose food was all anyone in the field of
gastronomy talked about. I thought it was
f**king amazing, and so did everyone else in the kitchen — a cult of personality had
attached itself to Marco, and so everything in the kitchen was in orbit around his
reputation. The understanding was that
we should be grateful to be able to work
star kitchen was huge. You’d start at seven
one in the morning. All day, every day. The job would have been advertised as a split a halfhour break — but a lot of the time
you’d just work through depending on how
keep on top of their work, they had no f**king business being in that kitchen.
I was put on the garde manger section,
my first day, that you didn’t want to take
for all the different dishes, which I’d
It was sort of understood, especially on
a break because you wanted to keep on
top of what was going on. It was super
regimented, with every minute of every day accounted for.
Everyone was gunning for perfection …
but all very focused and driven to do their
the guy with his name etched in brass on
58 | Hospitality
messy enough to need more than that to
where my job was to pick herbs. We had
in every way, and that vibe permeated the
small part to keep the machine running.
day. The reasoning was that if a chef was
busy it was and how much you had to do.
there, and we were. All these incredibly
talented chefs running around the place,
called Jimmy, and told those were the only
place from the guy washing the dishes to
the front door. It was infectious, that energy.
clip-top jars holding all the picked herbs take upstairs to Marco who’d use them while assembling the dishes. My other
job was to prepare tomatoes for concasse
— I’d blanch, peel, deseed and dice them perfectly so they were silky smooth and ready for service.
It was a bit of a gear shift for me,
coming from a onestar kitchen where
I was basically running the place, to being
So I was standing there, with my knives and
which is usually what apprentices did.
my two tea towels, staring at a thousand plum
they’ll have me on tomatoes all day. How
large dice, I knew I was going to get one, maybe
‘No worries,’ I thought, ‘there’s no way
could you spend all day on that?’
That was the process of a three-star place
where everything had to be absolutely f**king perfect.
The weeks passed and I was still in the
kitchen, still on the concasse. I was blitzing
tomatoes. The way they wanted them, as extra-
two perfect cubes out of each tomato petal, and
then I could either throw half that tomato in the bin or I could pick through it and try to salvage
what I could. That would be so time-consuming there’d be no way to get the prep done.
‘Right, I’m going to do this my way,’ I thought.
through it, no worries, then I came in one
I’d been staring at tomatoes so f**king long
of the specials featured tomato concasse
minute and had a close look at one of them and
day and they’d turned up the difficulty. One prominently, which effectively meant double the workload. That meant someone further
up the chain was trying to ruin my day: I was being set up to fail.
I could take them apart in my sleep, so I took a figured out a better way to do it.
I cut the top and tail off, then lined them
all up on a board and got a long, thin paring knife to core them. Placing the now-hollow
tomatoes neatly lined up on the board, I then ran a carving knife down the middle of each row, leaving me with perfect rectangles instead of petals of tomato.
The next morning, while I was still doing
the concasse, Jimmy came downstairs, saw
me doing my new trick with the paring knife and lost his f**king mind.
‘You’re not supposed to do it that way!’ he
hollered. ‘Who told you to do that?’
He ran upstairs … to tell Marco what I was
doing. Sure enough, seconds later I got hauled upstairs and Marco was already furious. ‘What the f**k are you doing to my
tomatoes?’ he wanted to know … in the end
he just dragged me downstairs and told me to show him what I was doing.
I showed him … and when I was done
Marco picked up a diced tomato and turned
to Jimmy and said, ‘He’s obviously got a much
better brain than you have,’ and that was that. After that I started to get closer to the real
action in the kitchen, out of the prep section
and into foie gras parfait, crabs, lobsters — the sort of food Michelin kitchens are all about. I was also really pleased that Marco was
the kind of chef who would take on an idea
that was clearly better than their established technique, which is a leap of logic that’s just too f**king far for some chefs at that level.
It proved to me that I was right to push back
sometimes if I knew my way was better, faster and cleaner, and I felt like I’d finally found a home in the kitchen of Marco Pierre White. The is an edited extract from Last Shot by Jock Zonfrillo (Simon & Schuster Australia; $45)
September 2021 | 59
5 MINUTES WITH … // Jock Zonfrillo
told I was picking herbs and dicing tomatoes,
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