Hospitality September 2022 by The Intermedia Group

NO.787 SEPTEMBER 2022 CURTIS STONE • SERAI • STEAK FRITES • CEDRIC’S POP-UP

Things you should know: Conditions, exclusions, fees and charges apply and may change. Read the terms and conditions at westpac.com.au before making a decision and consider whether the product is right for you. Starting at $24.75 a month for an EFTPOS Now terminal. Flat rate pricing does not apply to American Express®, Diners Club and JCB cards. If you want to accept American Express The Westpac EFTPOS Now terminal is made to get you paid with: • Wi-Fi connectivity with 4G backup • 24/7 customer support • 1.2% flat rate per transaction Call our friendly payment specialists to get started, or search to find out more. 1800 029 749 Westpac EFTPOS Now YOUR RELIABLE BUSINESS SIDEKICK

and/or Diners Club payments, you will need to enter into a separate merchant agreement with American Express and/or Diners Club respectively. American Express is a registered trademark of American Express Company. Mastercard is a registered trademark and the circles design is a trademark of Mastercard Incorporated. Westpac Banking Corporation ABN 33 007 457 141 AFSL and Australian credit licence 233714.

The Paper Plane has icon status among the bartending community. 24 // PROFILE Elijah Holland on working in China and spearheading a new culinary destination. 52 // EQUIPMENT

The bar spoon is an essential tool for fixing drinks. // 5 MINUTES WITH … Bellota Wine Bar’s Hannah Watt. 30 42

A Melbourne restaurant that’s as much about good times as it is food. // STEAK FRITES

The dish is emblematic of the finesse that comes with French cuisine. // PRODUCTION KITCHENS

Why one group is investing in dedicated preparation spaces. 8 // IN FOCUS

There’s no better time for outdoor dining than spring. // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related. // DRINKS

The latest openings, books, events and more. // PRODUCE Quince is hard on the outside, but makes the perfect preserve. // BEST PRACTICE

SEPTEMBER 2022

Features 30 // CURTIS STONE

Regulars

The chef is proving there’s no I in team. // SERAI

Two chefs front their first pop-up at Cedric’s in Sydney. // NEWS

4 | Hospitality Contents

//CONTENTS September

PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui jacqui@intermedia.com.auCooper

Keep up with the Hospitality team

ThisDISCLAIMERpublication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and repre sentations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2022– The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

//NOTESEDITOR’ Hello Social

Tom Sarafian’s two-week stint at Cumulus Inc. saw plenty of signature dishes hit the table.

@annabelleclorosBUONAPPETITO

JOURNALIST Aristine adobson@intermedia.com.auDobson

CUMULATIVE@aristinedobGREATNESS

Elijah Holland is one chef who has always heroed local veg, seafood and everything in between at its peak, and has a deep understanding of provenance thanks to his foraging background. While it may have been classified as a trend five or so years ago, Holland has never wavered on his commitment to finding and collecting ingredients, as seen at LOTI in Melbourne, which is where you’ll find him. This issue, we look at the Paper Plane cocktail which was invented by an Aussie as well as another iconic creation — steak frites. Hospitality is also thrilled to feature an exclusive interview with Curtis Stone, who talks about how he’s fostering a cohesive team dynamic, why he will never have a signature dish and running Michelin-starred restaurant Maude with an approach that revolves around constant innovation. I hope you enjoy this edition. Until next time, Annabelle Cloros Editor

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 instagram.com/hospitalitymagtwitter.com/HospitalityedHospitalityMagazineazine.com.auhospitalitymag422.facebook.com/ SUBSCRIPTIONAustralia:RATES

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 syork@intermedia.com.au4419 GROUP ART DIRECTOR –LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea kthorburn@intermedia.com.auThorburn

1 year (10 issues) = $99.00 (inc GST) 2 years (20 issues) = $158.40 (inc GST) – Save 20% 3 years (30 issues) = $207.90 (inc GST) – Save 30%

SUBSCRIPTION RATES New Zealand: 1 year (10 issues) = Asia/Pacific$109.00

6 | Hospitality

The chef’s menu at Pino’s Vino e Cucina began with burrata and persimmon.

Tago-an in Dawes Point is local dining at its best.

@hospitalitymagazine

A note from the editor

Average Net Distribution Period ending September 2019 – 11,506 Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine

1 year (10 issues) = $119.00 Rest of World: 1 year (10 issues) = $129.00 41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419

SPRING IS HERE, and I personally couldn’t be happier it’s outdoor dining season once again. It also coincides with one of my favourite times of the year when it comes to produce, with menus switching over as I speak (or type, in this case).

A PERFECT PLATE

PUBLISHER Paul pwootton@intermedia.com.auWootton EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 acloros@intermedia.com.au6226

CUT ORDERINGYOURTIMEINHALF Sign up today

//FOCUSIN pop-upCedric’s 8 | Hospitality

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

Wong speaks to Hospitality about how it all came about, putting up plates that reflect their own culinary ethea for the first time and demonstrating the versatility of humble ingredients. There’s nothing like a snap of hand-rolled trofie to bond over, and the same can be said about film photography. Such was the material that led to Arnold Wong and Jinsu (Steven) Park ‘meeting’. “We started off as Instagram friends,” says Wong. “I liked his photos of pasta and gave him a follow and he liked my film photography; we both have similar aesthetics.” After Park dined at Paci, the pair chatted and “became reallife friends”, says Wong. “We went out for a few meals together and I was like, ‘Hey, we should do a pop-up one day’.”

Two Sydney chefs made their debut with a pop-up that combined the best of both worlds.

Chef collaborations are nothing new, but are largely the domain of big names who can easily secure a space (or use their own restaurant) to run such events. It’s rarer and certainly much more difficult for chefs such as Wong and Park to make a pop-up happen — but they did.

Straight-upsynergy

ARNOLD WONG AND Jinsu (Steven) Park met on Instagram, with the Sydney chefs becoming fast friends. It wasn’t long before the Café Paci and Restaurant Leo young guns decided to combine their collective talents for a sold-out pop-up at Cedric’s that proves the future of dining is as bright as the preserved lemon found on a dish on their six-course menu.

toingredientsfocus“OurwasonusinghumbleshowcaseourheritagethroughthemediumofItaliancooking.”–ArnoldWong

Sardines were covered in a blend of soy sauce and olive oil before being caramelised with a blow torch and teamed with olive tapenade and preserved lemon. “I used my mum’s lemons from the Central Coast which I preserved in half sugar and half salt for a few weeks,” says Wong. “It was my first time making it, but I needed to use it because it was almost like candy and it balanced the fish.” Park was behind the two pasta dishes: lorighittas with cuttlefish, bottarga and chilli and agnolotti with pork, tomato butter and potato. Lorighittas is one of the most traditional pasta shapes made in the South of Italy, with the braided rings requiring a deft hand to twist the strands of semolina dough together. The creation of the dishes offered a chance for Wong to pick up some ideas to put to work on the pasta section at Paci. “I have my way of

September 2022 | 9 //FOCUSIN pop-upCedric’s

“These opportunities are rare. But for young chefs like us, it’s really inspiring and a chance for us to get our names out there.” With the venue locked in, Park and Wong moved ahead with four sittings over two nights. The vision was to do something a little different (but not a complete departure) from the dishes they plate up during their day jobs. “Our focus was on using humble ingredients to showcase our heritage through the medium of Italian cooking,” says Wong. “I see so many similarities between Italian and Asian cuisines. The style of food is communal and it’s all about giving flavour to starch and feeding the masses. We wanted to make people think about the similarities between the different cultures and techniques.” It took around two weeks for Wong and Park to iron out the six-course menu. Week one was mostly spent on developing the dishes, with some morphing into different forms by the end of week two. “We were going to do fried bread with prawn mousse inside like prawn toast, but we didn’t want people to fill up so early in the dinner, so we changed it to something like a fried prawn wonton,” says Wong.

The big question wasn’t how, but where. As a frequent patron of Cedric’s in Town Hall, Wong struck up a friendship with Co-Owner Taiyo Shima. “I worked out Taiyo didn’t open the venue on Monday and Tuesday and he was super keen on us doing something together,” he says.

GojiwereberriesusedinthesaucefortheduckworkedWongwithMapotomakethebasilgelato Italian thefeaturedanchoviesKoreanandinlorighittas because they cook differently to the breast. The legs went back in the oven and then the sauce component had the poaching liquid reduced with goji berries and grapefruit juice for sweetness and acidity. The goji berries were a nice touch to remind everyone that it wasn’t a purely western dish.” Basil sorbet with mascarpone and Thai basil oil was the final course, which was made in collaboration with Mapo. Wong went heavy on the basil, spending up big on the herb to make sure the flavour cut through (and it did).

The dish saw Italian and Korean anchovies combined together, with the latter an ingredient Wong hadn’t come across before. “Korean anchovies are very distinct,” he says. “We used the two anchovies to showcase the similarities between the two cuisines.”

“The dusting mix for pasta is traditionally semolina or plain flour. But he uses potato starch and coarse and fine semolina to prevent the dough from being overworked. It’s just one example of the details of his pastas that I learned from.”

10 | Hospitality //FOCUSIN pop-upCedric’s doing things, but I really respect his pasta game,” says the chef

■

Wong says there’s more to come after the first pop-up, with a second iteration likely to happen in the near future. Or potentially, something much bigger. Either way, the chefs are onto a good thing. “I’m happy it all worked out because it proved the path I’m on feels right,” he says. “Some chefs look at it as a job, but Steven and I see a deeper purpose and meaning. We are passionate about sharing our cultures through food. With a few more events, maybe we can open our own places in a few years’ time ... We’re still building our skills, but our creativity pushes us and there will be more to come.” Taiyo Shima

The chef names the dish as the most challenging of the pop-up due to the way in which the protein cooks. While a master stock traditionally comprises ingredients such as shaoxing wine, ginger and shallots, Wong took a different approach to the aromats. “I was thinking of using Italian flavours instead such as red wine, sage, rosemary and bay leaves as well as juniper berries,” he says. “I had to poach the duck until it reached 40-something degrees Celsius, cool it down, render the fat in the oven and carve the legs

The two-day pop-up wasn’t just a passion project for the chefs — who pulled back-to-back 15-hour shifts to prepare — but a test run of what the future could hold. “It was special to cook our own food and think outside of the box — not just purely using what we have learned from Leo and Paci,” says Wong. “We both love working at our restaurants, but doing the same thing every day becomes routine. Something like this makes us think about food costs, how we can make a whole menu work and how to work with front of house. It’s a tiny restaurant start-up.”

werewontonsFriedstuffedwithprawnmousse

The collaboration was a learning exchange that worked both ways, with Wong’s poached duck with master stock, sorrel and grapefruit demonstrating the skill required to nail the foundational dish. “Poaching is a Chinese technique that gently cooks meat while giving it flavour, and he had never seen it,” says Wong. “We both learned a lot from each other equally.”

Industrialexcellencecleaning The Vispa 35, Vispa XL and Antea 50 feature an eco-mode that reduces noise levels and battery consumption. These cleaning machines use antibacterial water tanks, making them effective solutions across the hospitality industry. 1800 314 commercial@godfreys.com.au580 Vispa 35B Vispa XL Antea 50

Natural wine brand Doom Juice is gearing up to run Sunday pop-ups from 2 September at its St Peters cellar door. Sebastian Keys and Zachary Godbolt have called on the city’s top chefs to create one-off menus for St. Lawrence Bistro in the courtyard, which will have a self-serve fridge for guests to choose wine from. The weekly event will see menus created by Jack Fitzhenry (Bastardo), Toby Stansfield (Old Fitzroy), Marcelo Munoz (Continental Deli CBD), Wesley-Cooper Jones (P&V), Sammy Rozsnyoi (Cafe Paci), Luka Coyne (Fish Shop), Ed Saxton (Sagra) and Anna Ugarte-Carral (10 Hats). doomjuicewine.com

The British Cookbook Ben PhaidonMervis ; $74.95

The best of British

12 | Hospitality //NEWS Entrée The latest openings, books, events and more.

Entrée

Inner West cellar door collabs with local chefs

EDITED BY Aristine Dobson

Taste of the sea

Restaurateur Andrew Baturo has opened the doors to riverside restaurant Tillerman at the Riparian Plaza in Brisbane’s CBD. Head Chef Suwisa Phoonsang is celebrating all things seafood with a menu that includes bacalao croquettes, Queensland mud crab with crab butter and chives plus salt-baked Murray Cod. Phoonsang is also serving other options such as Wagyu flank, chicken roulade with mushroom duxelles and a seasonal vegetable tarte tatin. A range of Champagnes are available by the glass and there’s a snappy list of cocktails to choose from, too. tillerman.com.au

Ben Mervis explores authentic home-cooked dishes from England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland in his new tome The British Cookbook . Mervis is known as a food historian, lead researcher for Netflix’s Chef’s Table and the founder of food magazine Fare, and is well-versed in all things food. The book includes 550 in-depth recipes covering everything from shepherd’s pie and grilled kippers to Scotch egg and Battenberg cake, which are accompanied by landscape and food photography. phaidon.com

A taste of Mexico

Enoteca Ponti wine bar and restaurant arrives in Potts Point

The team behind Bistro Rex have opened the doors to Italian-inspired wine bar Enoteca Ponti in Sydney’s Potts Point. Guests can start a dining experience with charcuterie, cheese and focaccia before moving on to lasagne spring rolls with fermented chilli oil, 600g Westholme T-bone steak, salt-baked whole John Dory or house-made pastas. “My vision is to bring the Italian cuisine of my heritage and evolve it to suit a modern, global context,” says Head Chef Aldo Farroni. The drinks list features Italian wines and classic cocktails. enotecaponti.com

The Halliday Wine Companion Awards has seen the top winemakers of the year announced. A panel of seven judges, including Founder James Halliday and a tasting team, announced the winners of the Major and Varietal awards, with Perth Hills securing the coveted Shiraz of the Year prize. “This year’s results are a wonderful testimony to the tremendous diversity of Australian wine at the top of its game,” says Halliday Wine Companion Chief Editor Tyson Stelzer. winecompanion.com.au

The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook . The book has 400 veg-friendly recipes covering breakfast, lunch, snacks and salads, sides, pulses, desserts, breads, beverages and basics. Each recipe indicates the region it’s from, with dishes spanning Northern and Central Mexico, Veracruz and Oaxaca. Readers can recreate everything from cheese and poblano chile tacos to avocado ceviche and fig cake. phaidon.com

Cream of the crop

The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook Margarita Carrillo Arronte Phaidon ; $74.95

September 2022 | 13 //NEWS Entrée

Chef Margarita Carrillo Arronte traditionalshowcasescuisinein

Momento Hospitality’s The Governor Hotel in Sydney’s Macquarie Park has opened a contemporary Cantonese restaurant dubbed Jinja in the pub. Chef Sebastian Tan is leading the kitchen of the 218-seater after time at Crown Sydney’s Silks. Tan and Speciality Chef Kushal Lama have designed a menu that includes sesame prawn brioche, black garlic Wagyu beef siu mai, XO lobster scallop dumplings and crispy pork belly. The drinks list has a large selection of Baijiu along with tea served from the dining room’s ceremonial tea dispensary. jinja.com.au Photography Steven Woodburn

Jinja arrives at The Governor Hotel

The Greek word melimelon means honey apple Trees produce 25 to 35 tonnes of fruit

14 | Hospitality //PRODUCE Quince Origins

Flavour profile and appearance

The trees are deciduous and can grow anywhere between 5-8m high and 4-6m wide.

The fruit is rich in tannins, making it highly astringent when eaten raw. It is always cooked before consumption and becomes soft and dense during the process. Cooked quince turns rosy in colour and has a piquant flavour with hints of apple, pear and citrus.

TheAlwaysAstringentwhenrawcookedbeforebeingconsumedemblemforGreekgoddessAphrodite

Quince

The fruit is highly adaptable and can grow in a range of climates from subtropical to cool and temperate regions. The plant is prone to quince fleck — a seed and aphid-borne virus

Culinary applications Slow-cooking and poaching methods are the best way to consume quince. The skin can be left on or peeled depending on the desired application. Quince is stewed and can be flavoured with spices such as cinnamon, clove and star anise.

that causes dark spots or marks — in overly moist conditions. It is recommended plants undergo chilling for good fruit production and are provided with sufficient irrigation in dry, hot conditions. The plant flourishes in heavy, moist soil and can be planted next to creek banks.

Quince can be used in both savoury and sweet recipes and is a welcome addition to stewed meats or desserts. It can be processed into pastes or jams, which are the perfect accompaniments to cheese boards. ■

The tannin-rich fruit makes the perfect jams, pastes and compôtes.

Quince is the only member of the genus Cydonia and belongs to the Rosaceae family, which also includes apples and pears. The fruit is native to the Hyrcanian Forest region south of the Caspian Sea and was first cultivated around the Mediterranean. The fruit was often referred to as a ‘golden apple’ and could withstand the extreme heat of Mesopotamia.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

Spicy and tangy flavour profile Rich tanninsin

The leaves are alternately arranged and can vary between 60–110mm in size. Harvesting in Australia occurs from mid-February in warmer regions to late-April in cooler regions. Fruit should be removed from the stem with sharp garden sheers. Once quince is harvested, it should be stored in a cool place to fully ripen.

Quince is pome-shaped like apples and pears and turns dark gold when it reaches peak ripeness. They grow 70-120mm long and 60-

Today, quince is commonly grown in Western Asia, south-eastern Europe, parts of Latin America and in California. In Australia, the fruit is predominantly farmed in the coastal, tablelands and inland regions of New South Wales.

90mm wide and have a fragrant, hard flesh. Underripe quinces are green or yellow in colour.

Growth and harvest

Smoothies in 17 www.kuvings.com.auCommercial58AcaisecondsBowlsinsecondsBlenderFindout more at our website or book a demo today! (02) 9798 0586 TO SCANPRODUCTVIEW

• Invest in a weather-proof roof that opens when needed. While louvre styles are more expensive, they can give instant protection and there’s a fast return on investment. Rolldown plastic blinds are a quick fix, but can start to look tired within 12 months and need to be cleaned regularly.

• Traditional gas and electric systems are expensive to run, so check the options for radiant heating. Gas mushroom heaters and visible flames create enough heat and atmosphere for many people, and there’s surprising tolerance for cold air if it’s not windy.

DINING OUTDOORS IS an essential part of Australian life, but we forget how tropical many areas are. Last year, Sydney and Brisbane followed Darwin as the wettest cities in the country, and no one wants to remember the floods and storms last summer. It can be windy and cold in winter and stinking hot in summer, so operators need comfortable, flexible and usable spaces 12 months of the Well-ventilatedyear.spaces with fresh air are now preferred by many health-conscious customers, and there are also incentives on offer from local councils to expand your seating area outside. Here’s an action list to create usable spaces all-year round.

• Heavily feature your outside space on your website and social media accounts. Invest in quality photography taken at various times of the day of your space and menu to encourage patrons to visit.

• Fix tables that rock by using adjustable feet and encourage staff to keep an eye on the dining area.

• Use the outdoor space for a range of occasions. If it’s enclosed, someone will book it for a small wedding or celebration. Share photos of the space when it’s been set for a function and promote it on your website.

■ Out and about Australia is known as the outdoors country, so let’s use our open spaces to maximum effect.

• Check out a wide range of industrial fans to keep air moving. Ensure fans provide broad, gentle coverage and keep them clean — it looks tacky when the blades are dirty. Misters also provide pleasant relief if they can be installed in the space.

• Stylish chairs are an immediate ‘quality signal’. Cheap furniture from discount homewares shops can be off-putting for patrons. Inside chairs don’t work well outside, so it’s important to invest in sturdy and stylish options.

• Create Instagram-ready corners and backgrounds; you’ll be surprised at what is photographed. Subtle reminders of your hashtag on menus will lead to photos you can repost online.

• Go lush with the plants and garden atmosphere. The most striking effects I’ve seen have professional maintenance, and the results are impressive and delightful. Installing plants can be an important part of increasing average spend. Quality surroundings go hand-in-hand with slightly more expensive menu pricing.

16 | Hospitality //PRACTICEBEST diningOutdoor

• Opt for strings of bud lights for lighting; a few rows of coloured bulbs can create instant happiness, too. Use a commercial grade for the right level of illumination. Bunches of cheap paper lanterns can also work well.

Quality surroundings go hand-in-hand with slightly more expensive menu pricing.

WORDS Ken Burgin

DO YOU HAVE protection for the risks your hospitality business currently faces? Are you sure your previous levels of business insurance will cover you if the worst were to happen?

Conversely, if your workforce has grown or your stock levels have increased, you may need to consider getting more cover.

Has your hospitality business changed recently?

What can you do?

September 2022 | 17 //ADVERTORIAL Bizcover

Does your business insurance reflect your current risk levels? With so much change, it’s likely hospitality businesses could have to change the way they operate. Staff levels, your business premises and its content could be totally different in a few months’ time due to the current environment.

With BizCover, business insurance doesn’t have to be complicated. Visit bizcover.com.au to compare quotes or call today.

Scheduling the time to consider your exposure to risks could help avoid problems later down the track. Consider what risks your business is exposed to and think about the possible scenarios that could happen if you weren’t protected in the event of a claim.

After that, consider jumping online to compare quotes and decide whether the price of the cover justifies the protection.

Research has found 60 per cent of Aussies plan to dine out less frequently, followed by visiting bars (53 per cent), getting takeaway (50 per cent) and visiting cafés (43 per cent).

■

The sector is also experiencing a chronic labour shortage largely due to a lack of migration, with more than 50,000 hospitality job vacancies across Australia as of May 2022.

If your business reduces its stock levels or your workforce shrinks between reviews of your policy, you could adjust your

The Australian hospitality sector is currently facing hurdles including the cost of produce, consumer spending habits, supply chain issues and bad weather. Price increases have affected the bottom line of many businesses, with some venues passing on the costs to consumers. This has created a second problem for the industry, with Australian consumers altering their spending habits to compensate for cost-of-living pressures.

insurance to better suit your current size, potentially saving you money in the process.

Your business insurance policy is designed to reflect and protect you from the risks you currently face. The last thing you want is to renew your policy without factoring in changes to your business circumstances and be left without enough cover when a claim is made against you.

*This information is general only and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. It should not be relied upon as advice. As with any insurance, cover will be subject to the terms, conditions and exclusions contained in the policy wording.

While the current situation is tough, there are some things hospitality businesses can do to protect themselves.

Iconic brand Angostura makes a key ingredient in what is arguably one of Australia’s most iconic beverages: lemon, lime and bitters. And now the beverage leader has branched out with three soft drinks covering original, blood orange and bitters and hibiscus and bitters. Available in 250ml cans. angosturabitters.com

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

The prebiotic beverages are made with natural ingredients and have a base of apple cider vinegar. Flavours include orange, raspberry, passionfruit, orange, guava plus lemon, lime and bitters, which are available in 250ml cans.

“People want great taste, low or no sugar and allnatural options they can trust, ideally with added functional benefits,” says Chris Gillard, managing director. The drinks are sold individually or in four packs. remedydrinks.com.au Not what you think Boutique non-alcoholic drinks brand T.I.N.A (This Is Not Alcohol) was started by cousins Imogen Hayes and Chrissie Trabucco who have delved into the world of sparkling tea beverages with the launch of their company.

1.0 sees high mountain oolong brewed with pear, calamansi and botanicals and is made on Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung and Boon Wurrung country. The 330ml cans are available in four ($24) or 24 ($144) packs. tinadrinks.com

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

The gin is exclusively available at Maybe Sammy until October as well as online for $75. neverneverdistilling.com.au

Fancy a Cuvée made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir? Tasmanian sparkling wine producers Pirie have released Late Disgorged 2011, which is crafted from grapes grown in the Tamar Valley. The sparkling spent 10 years on lees and has notes of cashew, citrus and brioche. “You drink it in with your eyes as the pale lemon colour fills the glass and fine bubbles rise to the top,” says Senior Winemaker Tom Wallace. “[It] has flavours of lemon and creamy mousse.” Late Disgorged is $145 and is ready to drink now or within three years. tamarridge.com.au

Pop a bottle

Never say never Local gin producers Never Never Distilling Co. and acclaimed bar Maybe Sammy have teamed up to launch Beeswax and Olive gin. The spirit combines Kangaroo Island honey from Ligurian bees and olives from Lloyd Brothers in McLaren Vale. “The brine plays a really important role in the complexity of the gin,” says Sean Baxter, co-founder of Never Never. “It acts like salt on caramel and adds a slight savoury note while pumping up the honey characteristics.”

I got the remedy

Pucker up

18 | Hospitality //NEWS Drinks Bar cart

Remedy Drinks has launched Sodaly, a range that encompasses six sugar-free soft drinks.

WHY MONIN LE M I XEUR? PR O D U C T B E N E FI T S RANGE AND T ASTING N O TES PRODU C T SPECS 7 0 0 ML G L A SS BO T T L E N A T U RAL C O LO UR V EG A N G M O FREE ALL ER GE N FREE G LU TE N FREE L A C T O SE F REE M ARGAR IT A M I X PI N A COL A DA M I X STR A WBERRY DAIQUIRI M I X MOJ IT O M I X Si mp ly ad d e q u a l p a r ts m ixe r, spirit a n d ic e AVAI L ABIL IT Y FO R M O RE IN FO C O NTA C T YO U R ST UA RT ALE X A ND ER SAL ES REP RES ENTA T I VE DI REC T, EM A IL M ONIN@ S T ALE X.C O M A U O R PH O N E 180 0 22 5 4 1 7 • FO R RE C I PE I DEAS VI SIT FB . C O M / MON I N A U MO N IN E N C O U RA G ES A N D SU PP ORT S RE SP O N SIB LE DR IN KIN G • Cr ea t e cl a ssic coc k t a ils w it h ea s e • T he p e rf e ct b a s e for tr ad ition a l a n d non a lco h olic coc k tail s • Simply mix, s hake a n d s e r ve • M ade w it h r ea l fruit juice a n d not h in g a rtiﬁci a l • Ve rs a til e a n d e a sy to us e • Consist e nt r ea l fruit fl av our ev ery tim e CO L OUR: Clou d y y e llo w A RO MA : Fr e s h lim e TASTE : B ri gh t citrus w it h fr e s h lim e a n d z e sty oran ge L im e J uice 2 0% CO L OUR: Pa l e y e llo w A RO MA : Pe ppery mint w it h a h int of lime TASTE : Fr e s h mint a n d t a n g y g r ee n citrus CO L OUR: Crimson r e d RO MA : R ic h str aw b e rry a n d lim e TASTE : R ip e s wee t str aw b e rry a n d fres h lim e CO L OUR: B ri gh t cr ea my y e llo w RO MA : Int e ns e tropic a l coconut a n d pin ea ppl e TASTE : Smoot h cr ea my coconut a n d s wee t ripe pin ea ppl e

buys ice fromStrengthNavy Hanky cold-pressedLoungePankyuseslemonjuice

Grazioli describes the drinking experience for those who have never tried the drink before: “You get all the components straight up, so it’s interesting trying to decipher it and break it down,” she says. “To get all that on your palate straightaway is awesome. I’ve had it a few different ways at different bars.”

Named after the hit M.I.A. song Paper Planes, the cocktail quickly gained traction among patrons and became the top order at The Violet Hour. It was equally lauded by industry professionals for its balance and has remained front of mind for bartenders the world over. Hospitality speaks to Francesca Camilli from Beneath Driver Lane and Anneliese Grazioli from Hanky Panky Lounge about choosing the right spirits for the job, how not to overdilute the drink and why the Paper Plane is ready for its return. Despite its soaring popularity during the early aughts, the Paper Plane is not often found on menus in Australia. Beneath Driver Lane’s Francesca Camilli believes most patrons are unfamiliar with the drink, let alone what goes into it. “Many people don’t know about the Paper Plane because it has Amaro Nonino in it, which is quite a unique ingredient,” says the Melbourne-based bartender. “I don’t think people have any idea what it is, unlike a daiquiri. But I think it should be more popular.”

Owner of Hanky Panky Lounge Annaliese Grazioli was initially puzzled by the Paper Plane when she first discovered it. “[Sam Ross] basically picked all these ingredients that usually stand up in drinks on their own and put them together,” she says. “He sounded like a mad scientist, but it came out really well and I think bartenders are intrigued when they see it.”

Although the Paper Plane is not currently lauded among the drinking public, Camilli rates it as a “bartender’s drink of choice”, praising it for its flavour profile. “I love the Paper Plane because it mixes four ingredients I love,” she says. “It’s a simple drink and it’s very balanced because it’s equal parts of every ingredient.”

WORDS Aristine Dobson Driver Lane

The Paper Plane took off in the early 2000s, but expect it to circle back to bars in the near future.

20 | Hospitality //DRINKS PlanePaperThe NEW YORK-BASED AUSTRALIAN Bartender and Attaboy Co-Owner Sam Ross was asked to develop a new cocktail for The Violet Hour in Chicago. Ross was up for the challenge and enlisted the help of the late Milk & Honey Founder Sasha Petraske, with the pair coming up with a drink that combined equal parts Campari, bourbon, Amaro Nonino and lemon juice in 2008. The Campari was later replaced with Aperol to mellow out the bitterness, resulting in a harmonious drink that would go down in history as a modern classic — the Paper Plane.

Bittersweet

The WordLastwasinventedin1915 Attaboy is part of Milk & Honey on New York’s Lower East Side Beneath

September 2022 | 21 //DRINKS PlanePaperThe

“It’s not [listed] on the menu because we don’t have Amaro Nonino or Aperol here. We adapt to what patrons want to order and explain how it will be different. Most people are keen to try a twist anyway.”

The Paper Plane drew inspiration from a prohibition-era cocktail called the Last Word which combines equal parts gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime juice. Both use a 1:1:1:1 ratio to maintain an equilibrium of flavours. “You need an ounce of bourbon, Aperol, Amaro Nonino and lemon juice,” says Camilli. “It’s sour because of the lemon, lush from the Amaro Nonino and the bourbon and bitter from the Aperol.” Although Beneath Driver Lane doesn’t list classic cocktails on its menu, Camilli is more than happy to make a Paper Plane upon request. If she does, the bartender never strays far from the original recipe.

Grazioli has riffed on the cocktail with various substitutions. “We used to do one with Saint Felix, an Australian aperitif, and Amaro Montenegro,” she says. “The Montenegro is a lot softer than Amaro Nonino, but Saint Felix is a little more bitter than Aperol so it balanced out nicely.” Selecting and measuring the ingredients is perhaps the easiest part of making a Paper Plane. “It’s kind of hard to stuff it up,” says Grazioli. “Obviously, it could happen, but make sure you stick to the right specs. If you are swapping out things like the amaro or the aperitif, you need to balance everything because they’re not equal bitterness and sweetness.”

“If someone wants a classic — and we get a lot of hospitality people ordering classic drinks — we make them,” she says. Hanky Panky Lounge isn’t afraid to venture from the norm when it comes to recreating the Paper Plane. “I’ve tried it with the original specs and twists and they all seem to work really well,” says Grazioli.

Choosing the right kind of bourbon is integral when building a Paper Plane, with the liquor providing body to the drink. “You wouldn’t use a peated whiskey because it would take the drink in a completely different direction,” says Camilli. “It’d be an interesting and fun experiment, but I think bourbon is more palatable as it has a vanilla finish. You get more creaminess than any other kind of whiskey and it’s sweeter, which contributes to the drink.” The sweetness that bourbon has comes from oak barrels and is exemplified by Kentucky brands such as Buffalo Trace and Knob Creek. Grazioli tips both makers as her top picks for the Paper Plane, but customers can choose other options. “I’d go through a couple of bourbons if they didn’t know the profiles,” she says. “I really like Maker’s Mark and the sweetness that comes from the high wheat. Woodford Reserve “It’s got to be super cold with [the number of ] botanicals in it and how fast it can change.”

– Anneliese Grazioli

– Francesca Camilli

The Paper Plane may comprise only four ingredients of the same measurements, but technique is still required to ensure the drink is properly executed. Camilli always puts spirits and liqueurs in a shaker before the citrus juice and the ice to prevent overdilution. “You always add citrus and ice at the end because it changes the flavour,” she says. “You shake and make sure your glassware and mise en place is ready to go. It’s all about serving the drink straight away and trying to maintain the integrity of the drink for as long as possible.”

The Paper Plane has influenced the modern bar world in a big way despite its low-key reputation. As a whiskeycentric bar, Beneath Driver Lane hopes to up public awareness of the drink and its counterparts. “There’s definitely been growth in the way people approach whiskey,” says Camilli. “In the past, only men drank whiskey and had it neat or in an Old Fashioned. We challenge people’s palates so they’ll be like, ‘Oh, it’s a whiskey drink? I might try it’. The Paper Plane will probably make a comeback because it’s a whiskey drink.” Grazioli hopes the cocktail will soon be as loved by patrons as it is by bartenders.

You don’t want to overdo the drink, so don’t shake it for too long.” Hanky Panky Lounge uses ice from its trusty Hoshizaki machine, which spits out hefty ice cubes. “It’s pretty chunky and we can control the dilution better,” says Grazioli. “It’s not particularly cold in Darwin, so we want to make sure the drinks are at a good temperature. If we can control one thing, it’s making the ice the best size possible.”

Originally, bartenders would honour the Paper Plane’s namesake by finishing off the cocktail with a hand-crafted paper airplane on the rim. While it makes for a unique garnish, it’s not entirely efficient for busy venues. A twisted lemon peel is an easier and equally sensory option. “It’s hard to do better than citrus oils,” says Grazioli.

22 | Hospitality //DRINKS PlanePaperThe or Basil Hayden also come close, but are probably a bit much for the cocktail.”

For a drink as punchy as a Paper Plane, a Nick and Nora glass or a coupe ensures a longer-lasting beverage. Keeping the glassware cold is also essential for a drink served without ice. “It’s got to be super cold with [the number of] botanicals in it and how fast it can change, so you want the glass to be cold,” says Grazioli.

“There are other ways to incorporate aroma with funkier garnishes, but for something like a Paper Plane, you don’t want to add something really technical or intense. You want something simple that adds aroma and looks good.”

The mixture is double strained to weed out any ice chips or citrus pith, resulting in a smooth and thin texture. “Double straining means you’re straining the drink with a Hawthorne and then a kitchen [sieve],” says Camilli. Keeping an eye on the dilution level is key and all comes down to the type of ice used. Large-format cubes are shaken with the formula and left behind once the drink is poured. “You want to have big ice because you don’t want to overdilute,” says Camilli. “It’s a quick, sharp shake so the ingredients mix together and you dilute it a little bit.

“Temperature is really important in a drink that has so much going on.”

“I think it’s a great little twist on different cocktail genres, so it’s a middle ground for people who want something bitter but sweet and refreshing,” she says. “Patrons probably wouldn’t order it without a bartender’s recommendation, but in saying that, I have seen growth. Give it a couple more years and it will pop up.” ■

“It’s a simple drink and it’s very balanced because it’s equal parts of every ingredient.”

Stay spirited. mAKE IT A LYRE’S.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

The chef’s discovery of local produce was constant during his time in the country, with The chef is bringing new meaning to the term locally sourced at LOTI.

HollandElijah

“I would get fresh goji berries the size of raspberries and wild honey from Yunnan that came in a bag on a stick with bees still in it.” – Elijah Holland

24 | Hospitality //PROFILE HollandElijah

ELIJAH HOLLAND’S NAME is perhaps most recognisable from his time as head forager of Noma Australia, which saw René Redzepi headhunt the chef to scope out local gems for the pop-up. The role no doubt cemented Holland’s name in the culinary world, and it’s been a rapid ascent ever since. He’s opened restaurants across China, trawled jungles and mountains for native ingredients and is now at the helm of a new concept influenced by its historic surroundings in Melbourne. Holland speaks to Hospitality about his time working in China, why foraging was never a passing trend for him and paying homage to provenance on the plate. 2016 was a big year for Elijah Holland. It not only saw the chef work alongside one of the world’s most acclaimed culinary figures (René Redzepi), but marked the start of a new chapter — a move to China, in this case. Holland was offered an executive chef position at The Locksmith, an Australian-influenced restaurant in Foshan Lingnan Tiandi in the Guangdong Province. The project was backed by partners — including the owner of Melbourne fine diner

It’s easy to understand the appeal of moving to a new country to a chef like Holland. China’s diverse food landscape provided endless opportunities to Holland to discover and work with ingredients he’d never seen before. “I did a lot of foraging and we used plenty of wild food,” says the chef. “We made donkey prosciutto, camel and goose salami and goat ham.” Holland later went on to join the Oysterlicious group and opened nine restaurants across the country from Beijing and Shanghai to the south of China, with the chef learning Mandarin along the way. He also headed up experiential fine diner Botanik, which was booked out four months in advance at its peak. “We did anywhere from 16–24 courses and seated 20 diners at a time,” he says. “The menu used produce from all around China from salts to oils and chocolate. Everything was cooked over a wood-fired oven, an open hearth or a wind-up charcoal grill.”

Lûmé. “I had never been to China before and I love a good challenge,” says Holland. “I opened The Locksmith, which was a three-level venue, and I spent one and a half years there.”

PHOTOGRAPHY Parker Blain

September 2022 | 25

//PROFILE HollandElijah

foraging trips and producers offering a glimpse into the sheer magnitude of Chinese native ingredients. “I would get fresh goji berries the size of raspberries and wild honey from Yunnan that came in a bag on a stick with bees still in it,” says Holland (who broke open the honeycomb to let the bees go). “I would make my own chocolate from cacao pods from Hainan and order sprouting coconuts. The local food scene is incredible. I had some of the best meals in remote towns and villages and I explored jungles and different regions all over China, but I missed Australia, so I decided to come back.”

After calling time at Lûmé earlier this year, Holland was ready to take on a fresh challenge: fronting a new restaurant. The chef was approached by Sweet & Chilli Managing Director Cameron Northway to spearhead the culinary offering at LOTI (Lady of the Ice) in St Kilda. “He had an idea and a vision, and we basically worked together to make it happen,” says the chef. “We are right

The chef returned to Melbourne after three years abroad and took a well-earned break, which saw him dive, surf and do some fourwheel driving, too. “I caught up with some different people and was offered the opportunity to take over Lûmé in January 2020,” saysNotHolland.oneto shy away from a hurdle or two, the chef switched up the fine diner completely. “I changed the whole menu and team in a month,” he says. “There were two menus of 12–14 courses, one of which was a vegan plant-based version.”

LOTI’s team venture out of the kitchen at least two times a week, travelling all over Victoria to Phillip Island, the Yarra Valley, the Snowy Mountains, Portland and beyond. Holland says the restaurant collects around 40 ingredients to use across the menu including coastal daisy bush, cabbage flowers, beach mustard, sea parsley, sea lettuce, bull kelp, native mint bush, mountain pepper “and the list goes on — that’s just a small amount”.

The trips are an exercise in education and good management — basically, it’s win-win for everyone. Chefs can seek inspiration beyond four walls and try ingredients that aren’t readily available, let alone up for sale. “There are a lot of ingredients they see for the first time,” says Holland. “I organise foraging trips for us as well as other activities such as spearfishing or visiting farms. It’s important to make sure we are learning and doing new things. I don’t want them to be like, ‘I have to go to work’ and it’s a duty. If we can make it more fun, it’s better for staff retention and there’s more interest from the team.”

It’s safe to say foraging is steadfast, not short-lived for the chef.

Putting local ingredients front and centre is integral for most restaurants, but Holland and the LOTI team take a handson approach to the notion. The chef grew up foraging and it has remained at the core of his culinary ethos, as seen on the whiteboard found in the kitchen. The board is split into seafood, dairy, dry goods, vegetables, meat and foraging — which has the longest list of ingredients by far.

“It has been one of those things where it became a trend and some people might have found saltbush or nasturtiums and called it foraging,” he says. “But I think they realised it’s a lot of work to see it, know it and understand it. It’s easy to pick the wrong things and it does take dedication to keep doing it. It’s always something I have been in and around.”

26 | Hospitality //PROFILE HollandElijah on the coast, so the food is inspired by Europe and is based around the idea of ‘Mediterranean made in Melbourne’.”

When the country’s your pantry, the limits are endless when it comes to creating dishes. LOTI’s menu is split into starters, share plates, mains, sides and desserts — but each dish is linked

“I get inspiration from nature. When you’re out there, it tells you the story of how to put things together.” – Elijah Holland

ThinkThinkReservations.ResDiary. Unlock your venue’s full potential Create compelling guest experiences with our restaurant reservation and table management platform Book demopersonaliseda Accept reservationscommission-free from all online channels Customisable diary set up to work the way you need it to Have more diners through your doors with smart table management Easily integrates with POS and other systems 60-70 percent of our bookings come through digitally now which saves us a lot of time since we moved from a pen & paper diary. - Margie, Little Savanna sales@resdiary.com.auresdiary.com

Most of the plates are designed to share, with larger options of BBQ turbot ribs with sea parsley, grilled lettuce and capers along with free-range barley-fed beef with salsify horseradish proving to be hits. The dishes will also morph according to ingredient availability, with the kitchen committed to using the best of the best. “We change oysters daily or weekly and we swap out botanicals or proteins as the seasons change. I’m about to launch an Australian fruit serving with different fruits sourced from around the country served in pure forms. We might take the fruit out and turn it into a sorbet or jelly or serve it raw brushed with kombucha or a fruit paste.”

LOTI has been open for just over two months now, and the team has gelled together to create something special. “We’re fresh as,” says Holland, “but one of the greatest things is the team. I am working with an incredible group of staff who really love what they do, and it comes across in the symbiosis of how well we work together.”

28 | Hospitality //PROFILE HollandElijah

■ sourcedHollandlocalhoneyfromYunnan The seadivingteamLOTIgoforplants A homagecevichepaystoanicerinkfromthearea The best-sellingcornettotunaisoneofthedishes

Plates not only hero local ingredients, but pay tribute to the historic roots of St. Moritz where the restaurant is located, which was known for its ice rink. A red emperor ceviche is teamed with native citrus and hand-picked Pyrenees olives. “It comes out with a frozen disc you crack and is a fun play on the rink,” says Holland, who also tips a ‘cornetto’ stuffed with smoked yellowfin tuna mousse and albacore tuna mojama as one of the most popular bites so far.

together by an overarching theme. “The menu incorporates wild ingredients in a way that’s approachable and easy for people to understand,” says Holland. “Everything on the menu is sourced from within Australia and predominantly Victoria, so really encompassing produce from in and around the coast. I get inspiration from nature. When you’re out there, it tells you the story of how to put things together. It makes sense to put turbot with coastal plants or seaweed. For me, it’s about constantly doing different takes on ingredients where people go, ‘F**k, that’s delicious — I can eat so much of that’.”

Edlyn Flavoured Toppings now available in 1L Squeeze Bottles! Edlyn’s Flavoured Toppings now come in convenient 1L Squeeze Bottles making them even easier to use in your favourite milkshakes, on ice cream or drizzled over desserts! Available in six delicious flavours: Banana, Caramel, Chocolate, Strawberry, Vanilla & Maple Flavoured Syrup. 3 AUSTRALIAN MADE 3 GMO FREE 3 GLUTEN FREE 3 KOSHER CERTIFIED 3 HALAL CERTIFIED To order contact your foodservice distributor To see the full range visit: www.edlyn.com.au Scan me to watch video Follow us @edlyn_foods

//FEATURE StoneCurtis 30 | Hospitality“We’re always a team, we’re never a Curtisperson.”Stone

September 2022 | 31 //FEATURE StoneCurtis

CURTIS STONE IS arguably one of the most recognisable names in the global culinary industry. The Australian chef has not only graced TV screens, fronted campaigns and opened restaurants, but has reached one of the culinary pinnacles of success by earning a Michelin star for his Los Angeles restaurant Maude. It’s an achievement that took years of hard work and resulted in many valuable lessons along the way. But even the most lauded chefs are only as good as the people they work alongside in the kitchen.

Curtis Stone has lived in the US for more than 10 years, racking up multiple achievements in the kitchen and on the small screen along the way. While the chef has made appearances on shows such as Netflix’s Iron Chef: Quest for an Iron Legend, he has remained ever-present at his restaurants Maude in Beverly Hills, Gwen in Hollywood and Georgie in Dallas. Maude was initially a springboard for Stone to get back into his whites after working in TV, with the chef returning in a big way in 2014. For the first four years, the restaurant changed its menu every month. “We did 12 different menus a year and it was super intense,” says Stone. “We were on a creative treadmill we could never get off.”

A decision was made to slow down and adjust to a quarterly menu revolving around a different region. “We still change dishes, but we just do one or two a week,” says Stone. “It really allows you to dial things in.”

Maude is described as an “experimental space” where everyone gets to contribute ideas to the menu. Collaboration is at the heart of the restaurant, and it has been that way from the start. “It’s really important to involve everyone in the creative process, so we do and we always have,” says Stone. “It doesn’t mean everybody’s dishes make it to the menu, but there’s no bad ideas. If you’re in your first year in the kitchen, we still listen to you.” Guests rarely see the same dish served twice at Maude, and Stone is always keen to go beyond familiarity. “People ask about a signature dish, and we’ve purposely never had one because we

Leading the way Curtis Stone may be the face of his restaurants, but it’s a team effort all the way.

WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Andrea D’Agosto

Creating a collaborative environment starts with the executive chef and trickles down to all the workers who make the gears of a restaurant turn. And it’s an ethos that Curtis Stone puts into practice at all his restaurants.

The chef talks to Hospitality about helming the ever-changing culinary direction of Maude, how quality uniforms boost staff morale and why you can’t be anything but a team player in the kitchen.

The team would move on to the next menu after each iteration, but the concept soon became a double-edged sword. While it kept the team on their toes, it was inevitably stressful. “It was a massive challenge,” says the chef. “It’s super fun and you get to work with cooks who learn an incredible amount in a short time, but it’s probably not the most sustainable pursuit.”

don’t want to rely on it,” he says. “It’s like a band having to play the same song for the rest of its career and we never wanted to do that; we always want to come up with something new.” Despite a no re-runs policy, many plates have resonated with diners. Of note is a nopal soup recently made with the expertise of Mexican-born Chef de Cuisine Osiel Gastelum. The main ingredient uses cactus which references the natural desert landscape of Baja California. “We took the cactus paddles, brined them and served them poached and raw,” says Stone. “It’s like a play on texture and you get to talk about the desert and what grows there.” Stone also mentions a raviolo dubbed ‘duck duck goose’, which saw the pasta stuffed with duck mousse and topped with unique garnishes. “We took the yolk of a duck egg and salted it until it was hard like Parmesan cheese and then grated it over the top of the raviolo,” the chef explains. “We then smoked goose fat and made a finger lime beurre blanc. It was rich because of the duck and smoked goose fat, but had a real brightness.”

Staff shortages have long been an issue in the hospitality sector, with much of the discourse now revolving around how operators can retain employees. Stone has always been a team player and is of the belief that providing valuable culinary lessons go hand in hand with good working conditions. “I can tell you 10 moments that happened to me early on in my career that made me fall in love with being a cook and none of them had to do with money,” he says. “I’m not suggesting we don’t have to fight to pay our staff and treat them more professionally — we absolutely do. But I hear a lot of chefs complain about having no access to cooks and it makes me go, ‘Are you the kind of chef who makes someone want to come work for you?’ You need to create something special and that’s what I instil in my team.”

32 | Hospitality //FEATURE StoneCurtis

Curtis Stone

The sentiment is demonstrated by Maude’s farm trips where staff members are given the chance to learn about produce straight from the source. The outings are educational for everyone and remind Stone of his time on Surfing the Menu. “I got to go out and meet farmers,” he says. “I worked in Michelin-starred restaurants for a big part of my life, but I had no idea where half of the ingredients came from. Suddenly, there’s an organic mango farmer who talks to you about what the perfect growing “People always ask about a signature dish, and we’ve purposely never had one because we don’t want to rely on it.”

Chef Matt Stone Ciao, Mate!

Keeping morale high isn’t just about leadership, it also covers something as simple as the uniform staff wear. A high-quality outfit made from topnotch materials can instil a sense of pride for staff when it comes to their work. In addition to being a seasoned chef, restaurateur and TV star, Stone has worked with Australian brand Cargo Crew to develop a new chef wear range that is visually appealing and highly functional.

Uniforms contribute to the broader restaurant experience, and Cargo Crew are making products staff are proud to wear. “When chefs get dressed in the morning and put on a uniform, it’s what sets your work apart from everyone else’s,” says Stone. “It’s what makes you unique and gives you the opportunity to create. I’ve always loved the moment where I put my chef’s uniform on, and no matter what it is I’m going to do, I’m there already.”

“It gives you a little bit more reach because we’re constantly reaching for things and lifting things up.”

One

restaurantsAustralianfavouriteStone’sisAttica abundancegrowsNopalinthroughoutMexico

//FEATURE StoneCurtis

“I genuinely love what I do and I’m lucky because it’s not one thing; it’s not just restaurants and it’s certainly not just television,” he says.

The trips have certainly had a positive impact on the Maude brigade, who take the inspiration straight back to the kitchen. “We’re always a team, we’re never a person,” says Stone. “If you were just a person, running service would be impossible. You need to rely on the people in their stations to put the food up each night. You also need to have fluidity throughout your team, so you all sing from the same hymn sheet.”

34 | Hospitality conditions are, the different varieties and the levels of ripeness and your mind is blown.”

Stone has experienced a fruitful career that has covered everything from competing in international cooking shows to putting regional produce on the map at his restaurants. When asked about his next step, the chef says he’s content to keep following his own path.

Stone’s go-to item is a thoughtfully designed work shirt that, like all the pieces in the range, has undergone multiple wear tests in commercial settings. “It’s got little details like a button back that keeps my apron in the right place,” says the chef.

“I get to work in different parts of our industry and that’s exciting. I don’t wish it was different. I don’t wish I had 20 restaurants, I’m very happy with what I have. I might open another one, but I wouldn’t do it for no reason.

It’s important to have a vision and be true to it.

My vision is to have wonderful people around me who I care for and respect, and I want the same from them.” ■ of theSurfingMenu first aired in 2003 Stone’s chef wear range is made rawhigh-qualitywithmaterials

//FEATURE Serai withPlayingfire Serai is a restaurant that doesn’t do labels. WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Jana Langhorst 36 | Hospitality

Serai is a team effort between Chef Ross Magnaye and business partners Shane Stafford (Rice Paper Scissors/Sister) and Ben Waters. The warehouse-esque restaurant is located on Racing Club Lane in Melbourne’s CBD, but could also be scouted out by its booming soundtrack (possibly Nirvana, depending on the day) or the smell of produce hitting the grill. It’s the same wood-fired grill that is the focal point of Serai’s kitchen, and was a simultaneous investment and risk for staff; specifically, Magnaye. “I had never cooked over a wood fire in my life before opening,” he says. “I was nervous about cooking with fire because it’s so hard to control. But wood-fired cooking is tied to the Filipino thing because it’s traditional. Gas is expensive, so cooking with wood or coal is cheaper.”

WITH EACH NEW restaurant opening comes a need to categorise it. Is it Italian, Vietnamese or Middle Eastern? But there’s a broader term: modern Australian, which is what Serai in Melbourne uses as a self-descriptor. What was once an umbrella term for Euro-centric dishes and techniques now reflects the reality of the culinary landscape, which is all-encompassing and an exciting place to be.

While Magnaye was “super confident” with his dishes, the grill was a serious learning curve for the chef at this point in his career. “You don’t want to be stagnant in what you do, otherwise you’ll be bored,” he says. “You have to think about the wetness of the wood, the humidity, how much food is on the grill — it’s a challenge for

Magnaye speaks to Hospitality about cooking with a brandnew medium (fire), tweaking traditional flavours and creating a restaurant that’s as much about fun as it is food.

“It’s nostalgic for people who recognise the flavours, but it’s not the same.” – Ross Magnaye

September 2022 | 37 //FEATURE Serai

Ross Magnaye has been called the poster boy of Filipino food in Australia, but what he’s doing at Serai is less about labels and more about doing things his way. “People automatically think I have a link to the culture because my background is FilipinoSpanish, but we use Australian ingredients with Filipino flavours and influences,” says the chef. “When people ask me about the food we do, I always say modern Australian.”

Serai’s menu is broken down into a format that reflects the current ‘trend’ of eating: raw bar, snacks, crispy things, small dishes, large plates and sides. It’s a choose-your-own adventure for diners, who can come in for a couple of dishes or “ideally — the set menu”. Sinuglaw, lumpia and kare-kare are all sounding boards for Magnaye-designed dishes and indicate the inspiration behind flavour profiles or techniques, but it’s best to expect the unexpected and definitely not the original. “It’s nostalgic for people who recognise the flavours, but it’s not the same,” says the chef. “Longganisa is a breakfast dish of fried rice, sausage and egg, but we serve it as a sauce with ’nduja on the wood-fired calamari.”

Those who know Magnaye won’t be surprised to see minimal-intervention wines take pride of

38 | Hospitality us,” he says. “You make mistakes but find ways to be more efficient. I think the smartest thing we’ve done is made the food super simple. The grill is a pain in the ass, but it changes the food completely and it’s worth it. I can’t go back to gas.” Red gum is the primary wood of choice to fuel the grill along with applewood chips which are used for smoking purposes such as the kangaroo found in the kinilaw. “We start the fire an hour before service, but it depends on how hot you want it,” says the chef. “We recently did an event with Tom Sarafian and the fire was smoking out the whole alleyway the moment I came in.”

//FEATURE Serai cocktailCalamansifeaturesonthelist Serai securedand15/20scoredhasahat Banana ketchup is found in a pumpkinvegandish You hearmightSeraibeforeyouseeit

Another example is the McScallop, which sees pandesal (a bread roll) stuffed with an Abrolhos scallop, crab fat sauce and atchara (green papaya). “The crab sauce is a condiment that’s usually served with grilled meats and seafood and atchara is a traditional pickle,” says Magnaye. Wood-fired and large plates cover everything from Skull Island prawns slathered in buro butter and Western Plains lechon with smoky pineapple palapa (a sweet and spicy condiment) to Gippsland lamb ribs with adobo sauce and vegan options, too. “We’re doing tocino heirloom pumpkin which is basically treating the pumpkin like meat by glazing it,” says the chef. “Banana ketchup is in it too and it’s served with confit garlic. We’re also doing Filipino empanadas with a spicy escabeche sauce and will change some of the side dishes. There are specials, too, so we definitely move with the seasons.”

THRONE

NEW

40 | Hospitality //FEATURE Serai place on the wine list. Serai’s by-the-glass offering spans 15 or so options from Das Juice’s pet-nat to Brave New Wines’ Riot Girl. While there’s a focus on local producers, European makers feature as well. “The by-the-glass list is important because we want people to be able to try different wines, so that’s why we have a big list,” says Magnaye. “The hospo crowd tends to go for the more highend, funky bottles.”

– Ross Magnaye

Serai’s cocktail list has also been a hit and heroes ingredients such as ube and calamansi. “People haven’t really heard of these things or tried them before — it’s unique,” says Magnaye. House calamansi-cello is paired with Four Pillars Shiraz gin, Prosecco and cardamom tincture for a spritz, with a spin on an Old Fashioned combining Kasama rum with coconut fat-washed bourbon, pimento dram and single-origin coffee bitters. Not to skip on the Ube Wan Kenube, which sees Don Papa No.7 Mt. Kanlaon rum combined with crème de cacao, ube coconut and bitters.

“You don’t want to be stagnant in what you do, otherwise you’ll be bored.”

Serai is Magnaye’s first restaurant and marks his return to Melbourne’s dining scene after calling time on Rice Paper Scissors and working in Bulgaria. It’s been short and sweet so far for Serai, which secured a hat and a score of 15/20 in its first week — despite not having a toilet roll holder. “I didn’t think about getting a hat when we opened, we just want people to have a good time,” says the chef. “It’s not your typical one-hat restaurant; the food is good, the music is loud and everyone is having a good time. It’s just about having fun — it’s a restaurant. Come get loose, come to Serai.” ■

demonstrationCallwww.kuvings.com.auNOWtobookatoday! (02) 9798 0586 Generate More Profit with Cold Press Juice • Highest juicing yield • Juice whole apples & oranges • 24hr runtime • Up to 40 litres/hour • Easily juice leafy greens, fruit & vegetables TO SCANPRODUCTVIEW

//FEATURE fritesSteak 42 | Hospitality

STEAK, CHIPS AND sauce are a trio that have stood the test of time. It’s one of the most versatile food combinations, with various forms appearing at casual and fine-dining venues. The most elevated version of the dish is perhaps steak frites, which has long been a staple at European brasseries.

Paris on a plate

September 2022 | 43 //FEATURE fritesSteak

While it appears simple, each element needs to be cooked to meet its highest potential.

From perfectly cooking the meat to creating a well-balanced sauce, there is a lot for chefs to consider.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

Steak frites is a representation of the techniques and methods that are intrinsic to what European cookery is all about.

Steak is the hero component and starts with selecting the right cut of beef. Classic options include a New York strip or rib eye, but more contemporary cuts are coming to the fore as French cuisine progresses.

There are three main components that make up steak frites: the first is obviously steak, followed by frites (potato chips) and sauce.

“At Entrecôte, we don’t use the Entrecôte cut, which is the rib eye,” says Menger.

Hospitality speaks to Tim Menger from Entrecôte and Will Elliott from Whalebridge about sourcing the right cuts of beef, the intricacies of the cooking process and why steak frites should never be Belgiumoverlooked.andFrance

“We use Cape Grim grass-fed sirloin from a Starch, protein and sauce form the ultimate trifecta that is steak frites.

The restaurant’s steak du jour frites is listed on the main menu and is a dish Elliott has long appreciated. “The first meal I ate in Paris was steak frites with exactly three ingredients: beef, potato and sauce and it was perfect,” he says. “The essence of steak frites is its simplicity. It is a single, contained and complete experience and an opportunity for a chef to express themselves.”

both claim to be the inventors of steak frites. While most history books point to Belgium as the creator, the popularity of steak frites can be attributed to French chefs, who have mastered the dish. Tim Menger from Entrecôte in Melbourne’s Prahran has made many plates of steak frites over his career and says it’s a dish that’s emblematic of France’s approach to food. “Steak frites encompasses a lot of what French bistro cooking is,” says the head chef. “It’s an interesting class of dish because you’ve got the very basic part of the frites, which you need to cook right to make sure they’re crunchy and crisp, but then you’ve also got the meat speaking for itself and the luxuriousness of the sauce.” Will Elliott is no stranger to French cuisine. He recently moved from Hubert to take on the executive chef role of Whalebridge, which opened its doors in Sydney’s Circular Quay earlier this year.

“Over-charring will leave a great steak bitter and dry, while a photogenic criss-cross on an otherwise grey steak won’t develop the true flavour of the beef.”

The cooking time is a matter of minutes, but the steak needs ample time to rest and let the juices settle. “We’ll probably rest it for around about 10 minutes because it’s a small piece of meat,” says Menger. “The resting time depends on the size. If you’re doing a 1kg T-bone, you’re going to rest it for 20 minutes or so.”

The beef is trimmed and portioned before being placed in a vacuum pack and sous vide. It is then removed from the plastic, “patted dry, seasoned and grilled to temperature and brushed with melted butter to encourage a deep brown colour”, relates the chef

Steak frites requires a luxe sauce, and there are myriad options from béarnaise to peppery au poivre. Deciding which sauce to make is largely linked to the cut of meat. “Sauce béarnaise is a straight hollandaise,” says Menger. “You add some shallots and chopped tarragon and traditionally [serve it] with cuts like eye fillet.”

“It’s something people can relate to while having the experience of extra luxury, and I think that’s important when it comes to cooking.”

Elliott begins the cooking process by sous viding the steaks to the point of medium rare before finishing them on the grill. “It ensures the more flavourful and characterful cuts we use end up a lot more tender,” he says.

//FEATURE fritesSteak

“It’s a cross between a hollandaise and a mayonnaise in that you’re emulsifying egg yolks, mustard and whole butter and then mixing the herbs through,” he says. “It’s got anchovies to provide saltiness

The chef then seasons the 230–250g steaks with dried herbs and spices including toasted coriander seeds, smoked paprika, sea salt and black pepper. “You give it a good hit of seasoning and it goes on the grill,” he says. “It shouldn’t take too long to cook, which means your meat is not getting the shock.”

The restaurant relies on its relationships with suppliers to source top-quality meat. “We have three key beef suppliers who connect us with a number of producers up and down the east coast,” says Elliott. “One of my favourites is Jack’s Creek outside of Tamworth in New South Wales who have incredible products with a long history.”

Menger opts for a traditional sauce a la maison or green sauce.

Over at Whalebridge, Elliott has a different approach when it comes to selecting the right steak. “Personally, I lean towards flavour over tenderness and prefer cuts like bavette, onglet and tritip,” he says. “We use a variety of cuts and work with our suppliers to take advantage of good Australian beef.”

Cooking a good steak is cheffing 101, with Menger and Elliott both chargrilling the beef. But first, the preparation. “I take the meat out so it reaches room temperature before putting it on the grill because we use a very hot gas grill,” says Menger.

“Good products deserve to be treated respectfully,” says the chef.

44 | Hospitality company called Flinders, which is supplied by Greenham farmers. It’s a good Tasmanian product.” Sirloin is a leaner cut compared to rib eye and has a milder flavour profile along with some bite. “We tend to go for sirloin because it’s a more consistent cut and is easily portioned, which is helpful in a restaurant setting,” says Menger. “It’s also a cut Australians know and the quality is always there.”

For Elliott, maintaining the beef’s natural flavour comes first.

Tim Menger

Serving Suggestion For more information, contact your Riviana Food Service Sales Representative, or contact us at: 1800 748 426 rivianafoodservice.com It’s ChristmasnotwithoutPlum PuddingDelicious, moist plum pudding portions, just like grandma makes. Simply heat and serve. Code: 2461010 80g single serve (30 per carton) Made in an Australian bakery Made with real fruits & spices Quick & easy preparation Ambient, not frozen 12 month shelf life Loosely packed in carton for easy bulk preparation & transfers

Will

46 | Hospitality //FEATURE fritesSteak along with lemon juice and tarragon to cut through the richness.”

Frites, or fries, are a little more straightforward when it comes to preparation, but Entrecôte still pays plenty of attention to the humble carb. The frites at Entrecôte are fried in multiple stages in two separate deep fryers: one at 160 degrees Celsius and the other at 180 degrees Celsius. “The first fry seals the chip, which gives you a surrounding crust and the second gives it a really hard crisp on the outside, so you’ve got an excellent crunchy texture,” says Menger.

The jus follows a traditional recipe that sees the juice from roasted veal bones and pork trotters combined with tomato, white wine, spices and herbs. “We reduce it until the flavour is full, not to a sticky glaze, and season it with white soy,” says Elliott. “The finished product has a full, clean, meaty flavour to complement the taste of the steak without drowning it.”

The refersentrecôtewordtoabonelessribeye Steak frites was 18thduringcreatedthecenturyinBelgium The dish withtypicallyisservedsaucebéarnaise laMenger’ssauceamaisonusestarragon

A more pared-back approach to sauces and accompaniments is taken at Whalebridge by pairing the steak with café de Paris butter, veal jus and optional sides. “The café de Paris butter is whipped and held at room temperature to be smeared across the finished steak before a few licks of hot veal jus,” says Elliott. “I also keep a selection of French mustards on hand for those who prefer more heat.”

“The essence of steak frites is its simplicity. It is a single, contained and complete experience and an opportunity for a chef to express themselves.” Elliott

Steak frites is an example of luxury meets simplicity and is a prime example of the dishes diners are currently responding to with gusto — everyone loves a classic. “What we do in restaurants is fancy it up a bit, but it still links back to its humble roots,” says Menger. “It’s something people can relate to while having the experience of extra luxury, and I think that’s important when it comes to cooking.” ■

French bistros are only increasing in prevalence in the Australian hospitality scene, so it’s no surprise one of its foundational dishes is also on the rise. “It demonstrates the values of a venue,” says Elliott. “The producer, cut of beef and how it is handled, the style of fries and seasoning, sauces and condiments all tell a story of the venue.”

The chef melts butter and shallots in a pan at around 70 degrees Celsius and then adds capers, anchovies, chopped walnuts and herbs. Egg yolks are emulsified with Dijon mustard and Worcestershire before being combined with the butter mixture. “You mix in the herbs with the butter and blend it together,” says Menger. “You can do it with a bar blender or a stick blender. We bar blend because we make 6kg at a time.”

Contact: Simon York syork@intermedia.com.au Want to Communicate your product to over 100,000 hospitality industry professionals across print and digital?

IN A DREAM restaurant, you’d have a kitchen filled with every piece of equipment required to get the job done with efficiency in mind. A space with dedicated cool rooms, dry stores and enough room for chefs to work without bumping elbows. For many, it is just that — a dream; largely thanks to soaring rent costs and the reality that most restaurant kitchens are built without wiggle room. But there is a ‘solution’ to the age-old qualm — production kitchens. The spaces aren’t pretty (typically), but have become a necessity for restaurants bursting at the seams. Hospitality speaks to Stephen Seckold from House Made Hospitality about why the group decided to install a production kitchen, streamlining culinary operations and the work–life benefits they can provide to staff.

48 | Hospitality //FEATURE kitchensProduction

Putting in the work

A lot of restaurants trade lunch and dinner, so they can prep in between, but Grana is open all day. It’s also important because there’s a secondary team preparing food continuously, so the other kitchens aren’t disrupted — you don’t want chefs prepping while others are plating.”

House Made Hospitality made its debut on the Sydney dining scene last year with Hinchcliff

PHOTOGRAPHY Jiwon Kim; Steven Woodburn

“The way our building was designed meant we couldn’t have a large kitchen on one floor,” says Director Stephen Seckold. “We have two kitchens across our dining rooms, and they could only be a certain size, so we had to put in a production kitchen, which is important for a venue like ours.

Separating preparation from service is just the start of the benefits that come with productiondedicatedkitchens.

House: a four-storey concept in a heritage wool store on Young Street. Iconic buildings naturally come with limitations regarding what operators can and can’t change to ensure character and integrity are preserved. Thankfully, Hinchcliff House’s stacked design allowed the group to build a dedicated production kitchen on the top level high above basement bar Apollonia, ground-floor all-day diner Grana and first-floor restaurant Lana.

The group has recently secured an external prep kitchen in a nearby building as it continues to scale up with a new venue in Bondi. “We’re moving into it just based on volume,” says Seckold. “It’s at the bottom of a high-rise building and is a large kitchen with some cool rooms.” While the rent is high, the group has plans to offset the cost as much as it can. “We will eventually attach a café to make some revenue to pay the rent,” says Seckold. “But you factor it into the cost of production and venue costs. The kitchen will eventually supply Hinchcliff House and our restaurant at Bondi Pavilion.”

The kitchen is not just the domain of chefs, but Apollonia’s bartenders, who make batched cocktails (including the signature Negroni) in the space. The cocktails are fed through the bar’s tap systems, saving bartenders and customers time when it comes to making and getting a drink. “We were doing the batched cocktails out of a small area in Apollonia at first, but outgrew the space as the bar became busier,” says Seckold. “The amount of work that goes into the cocktails … it just makes sense to make them in bulk. Bartenders also spend a couple of hours each day juicing citrus to take a step out of the process — it’s better than waiting 25 minutes for a cocktail to be made.”

September 2022 | 49 //FEATURE kitchensProduction

“You can nail everything and execute all your recipes in one location. Everything is more consistent.”

A production kitchen is primarily used by chefs and bar teams for duties spanning everything from juicing citrus for cocktails to making pasta sauces en masse. Basically, it’s always in production mode. “You can nail everything and execute all your recipes in one location,” says Seckold. “Everything is more consistent. We have large-scale bratt pans and pressure cookers that allow us to make 300 litres of pasta sauce at a time rather than 30. It becomes one job a week, which saves on labour.” Besides making sauces and braises, the kitchen team uses the space to make mayonnaises, sauces and purées as well as break down proteins and vegetables: “All the things that are time-consuming in the venue,” says Seckold. The team can also keep a keen eye on food waste, with additional produce repurposed for staff meals across Hinchcliff House.

House Made has appointed a dedicated head chef to run the production kitchen, which is a key role within the group. “The head chef needs to be one

– Stephen Seckold

“There’s continuously,secondaryateampreparingfoodsotheotherkitchensaren’tdisrupted.”–StephenSeckold

While the kitchen has its own head chef and team, it’s a collaborative space for all chefs to work in (should they choose), with some staff switching between the restaurant and prep kitchen to break up their rosters. “Prep can become repetitive, so we rotate chefs depending on what sort of roster they’re looking for,” says Seckold.

50 | Hospitality //FEATURE kitchensProduction of the strongest in the company,” says Seckold. “If you’re breaking down 200 lamb shoulders and they’re not right, they’re already messed up by the time they come to the kitchen, so getting it right is one of the most integral parts of the business.”

The kitchen has order.”

It’s also a good starting point for people entering the industry who may not be ready to break into service just yet. “You can find your feet if you’re not confident in a kitchen environment and can learn all the basics — especially coming out of school,” says Seckold. “You can execute things directly and it’s a nice start compared to just being thrown in the deep end.”

Not to forget one of the most time-sensitive aspects of running restaurants — deliveries.

■

The sentiment flows down to the day-to-day of hospo life and fosters a sense of camaraderie, which is critical given the pressures that come with working in restaurants. “I find the brigades are more ‘together’ — the industry needs things to be calmer and more controlled rather than chaotic,” says Seckold. “When service comes around, any chef would say their full focus needs to be on service rather than last-minute prep.

As House Made continues to expand, Seckold says additional production kitchens will be needed — something he didn’t think would happen when he first joined the group. “If you told me a year ago that I needed one, I would have said, ‘No, it’s a luxury’. But it really does help bring everything together,” he says. “We will need to get a larger kitchen soon as the business grows; maybe something that’s not in the city, but we will modify as we go. It’s integral as we grow as a group.”

A key perk of having a production kitchen is convenience — operators can have all orders sent to one location. “You spend a lot of time accepting deliveries and it cuts into prep time and cooking when you’re trying to get ready for service,” says Seckold. “Having one kitchen also helps suppliers as they don’t have to do multiple drop-offs and we can just distribute ourselves if we need to.”

The prep kitchen is certainly appealing for those looking to work ‘normal’ hours and have work–life balance in the culinary industry. “You can work mornings or nights and it’s appealing because you’re not limited to service times,” says Seckold. “It suits someone who wants to get away from the grind of service or who doesn’t want to work nights.” It might be a productivity hub, but the kitchens are also the place where Hinchcliff’s team develop all the dishes that make it onto the menu — creativity and collaboration is still very much present. “Our senior team normally do all the development in the kitchen and the juniors are always with them during that stage,” says Seckold. “It’s one of the more exciting parts where you’re talking about dishes and there’s not really a hierarchy where a head chef says, ‘Do this and this’. We talk out all our ideas and collectively come up with new dishes as a team — it’s important for everyone whether you’re junior or senior.”

FoodSolutionProfessionalforStorage To meet exacting standards demanded in the F&B industry, our professional fridges and freezers are engineered to ensure reliable storage conditions. Designed for integration in a HACCP concept, Liebherr‘s energy efficient appliances are easy to clean, allowing for optimum food hygenie. home.liebherr.com.au Hotels, Restaurants & Catering Distributed by: Contact Us: 1800 685 899

52 | Hospitality EQUIPMENT// spoonBar Bar spoon An essential tool for every bartender. Designed for stirring cocktails such as Negronis and martinis Long enough to reach the bottom of a tumbler for stirring Spoonusuallyvariesmeasurementaccordingtomodel,butisaround5ml Ideal for asingredientsmashingsuchcitrusorherbs Can be used to crush ice Liquids can be poured down the twisted handle for controlled layering Some models have a disc at theThereend are EuropeanJapaneseAmerican,andbarspoons

Think Hospitality. Think Nisbets. Nisbets is here to serve. We provide all the hospitality and catering supplies along with industry expertise. Shop Today! The Face Of nisbets.com.auHospitality 10% OFF Use coupon code at check HOSPITALITY10out: *T&C’s apply. Voucher is redeemable online. Voucher can only be used once per account. Enter voucher code at the basket page on nisbets.com.au to qualify. Voucher code is case sensitive. Nisbets Essential lines are not included. Voucher is valid until 31/10/2022. For full T&Cs visit nisbets.com.au. ALL YOUR HOSPITALITY AND CATERING SUPPLIES*

The Bellota Wine Bar sous chef on discovering South-East Asian cuisine and nailing classic French techniques.

We’ve got a roasted spatchcock with parsnip purée, charred onion and jus gras, which is a classic French dish I put on the menu. I think it’s the kind of input I bring because [I was] classically trained during my apprenticeship. I’m back to cooking more European flavours now, but knowing how to balance acidity, sweetness and savoury is useful and a credit to my time cooking South-East Asian food.

I’m in my late 20s and am in a senior role, but it’s nice to keep learning from other people. No matter what position you have in the kitchen, the hard work never ends and you should always be open to learning new things.

My first job at age 21 was at a little French bistro in Richmond called Noir and then I went to Woodland House for a brief stint. It was long hours and quite an aggressive kitchen, so I moved to Jerry Mai’s Annam to try out something a little bit different. I learned a lot about SouthEast Asian flavours and cooking on the woks. It really pushed me outside my comfort zone which was the purpose. Jerry could see my enthusiasm and willingness to learn, so she really took me under her wing and spent time helping me develop an understanding of flavours and ingredients that I hadn’t heard of at the time.

I WAS DOING an arts degree at university but wasn’t enjoying it, so I picked up some kitchenhand work while I was figuring out what I wanted to do. As I got to hang out with more chefs and nestle into the industry, I really enjoyed the lifestyle and the fast pace, so I thought I’d do it properly.

Part of the reason I took this job in the first place was because I really wanted to learn more about wine. We do a lot of wine dinners, and it’s given me the opportunity to look at the menu and be able to create food around it as opposed to expecting the sommelier or the front-of-house team to make pairings.

■

WattHannah

Knowing how to balance acidity, sweetness and savoury is useful and a credit to my time cooking South-East Asian food.

When COVID hit, I moved back to regional Victoria and stayed there [during lockdown] which was for the best because things in Melbourne were dire. I’ve moved back now everything’s opened up and am working at Bellota Wine Bar. It’s a very small team, and I’m lucky to work under Nicky Riemer [head chef] who’s been in the industry for a very long time. She really has her stamp on the menu, but we collaborate on specials. There’s 30 years between us; she brings classic butchery techniques that have been lost in my generation of chefs and I bring in newer cooking styles.

54 | Hospitality //...WITHMINUTES5 WattHannah

Hostplus is proud to be ranked #1 for performance for its Balanced (MySuper) option over the short and long term. Compare Hostplus RETURNSINVESTMENT#1OVER1,10AND20YEARS SuperRatings Accumulation Fund Crediting Rate Survey – SR50 Balanced (60-76) Index, 30/06/2022. General Advice only. Consider the relevant Hostplus PDS and TMD available at hostplus.com.au and your objectives, financial situation and needs, which are not accounted for in this information. Awards and ratings are only one factor to be taken into account when choosing a super fund. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance. Host-plus Pty Limited ABN 79 008 634 704, AFSL 244392 as trustee for the Hostplus Superannuation Fund (the Fund) ABN 68 657 495 890, MySuper No. 68 657 495 890 198. HP1969

MASTERING THE Airex’s extensive range of refrigeration and display products, exclusive to Stoddart, has been designed and tested in Australia to master the elements of its diverse climate. Airex’s innovative and sleek line-up will ﬁt seamlessly into any commercial setting, in retail, commercial kitchens, cafés, in either front or back of house applications. Providing outstanding food safety standards, hygiene and high-quality components, Airex sets a new standard for refrigeration and display within the food service market.

ELEMENTS

D E S I GNED AND E N GI N E E RE D IN AU S T R ALIA TO ME E T AU S TR ALIAN S TAN DARD S Scan to view the range online

Hospitality September 2022

Articles inside

FEATURE: PRODUCTION KITCHENS

FEAUTURE: STEAK FRITES

FEATURE: SERAI

FEATURE: CURTIS STONE

PROFILE: ELIJAH HOLLAND

DRINKS: THE PAPER PLANE

IN FOCUS: CEDRIC'S POP-UP