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Regulars
8 // IN FOCUS
The 2023 Hospitality Leaders Summit in review.
10 // NEWS
The latest openings, books, events, and more.
12 // PRODUCE
Everything you need to know about taro.
14 // BAR CART
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
Contents
SEPTEMBER 2023
16 // DRINKS
Amanda Schuster shares her recipe for a Gin Basil Smash.
22 // PROFILE
Chef Savannah Sexton on how they take diners down memory lane with food.
52 // EQUIPMENT
The trussing needle is the go-to when dealing with poultry.
54 // 5 MINUTES WITH … Midden’s Mark Olive.
Features
28 // BAGELS
The O-shaped bread is shedding its supermarket status.
34 // ACCESSIBLE STEAK OPTIONS
How three venues are catering to cost-conscious diners.
40 // COST OF LIVING
Variety is key when it comes to doing the numbers in the current climate.
44 // FINE FOOD AUSTRALIA
What you can’t miss at the upcoming trade event in Sydney.
4 | Hospitality
22 28 34 CONTENTS // September
www.puredairyfoodservice.com
BEACHSIDE BLISS
Belles is hitting Bondi soon with its signature hot chicken. @hospitalitymagazine
A note from the editor
THE COST OF living has been on most people’s minds in recent months, and many Australians have been cutting back on spending — dining out is one of the areas that has been hit first. While some restaurants continue to do the numbers, others are noticing a drop off in customers and spend. There’s no doubt it’s a difficult situation for all, but venues are rising to the challenge and offering cost-effective options that don’t skimp on quality. I cover the topic with Frenchies Bistro & Brewery, Liquid & Larder, and Dear Sainte Eloise.
PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au
EDITOR
Annabelle Cloros
T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au
DEPUTY EDITOR Amy Northcott anorthcott@intermedia.com.au
DISCLAIMER
Our profile this issue features none other than Savannah Sexton, a chef working for Adelaide’s Big Easy Group who is running some of the city’s most-frequented spots. We also cover slow bagels with Masses and Baker Bleu, affordable steak options at three venues, and bring you an exclusive first look at what you can expect at the upcoming Fine Food Australia event in Sydney. Until next time,
Annabelle Cloros Managing Editor
ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York
T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au
GROUP ART DIRECTOR –LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au
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LONG LUNCH
Ham and hot sauce, part of the $65 menu at Palazzo Salato. @annabellecloros
ALWAYS A WINNER
Nomad’s BBQ spatchcock with harissa, toum, and guindilla. @_amynorthcott
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6 | Hospitality
Social
us
Keep up with the Hospitality team EDITOR ’ S NOTE // Hello
HLS
in review
Highlights from the 2023 Hospitality Leaders Summit in Melbourne.
WORDS Amy Northcott
MORE THAN 120 industry professionals gathered together in July for the 2023 Hospitality Leaders Summit held at Melbourne’s Metropolis Events. The event saw a stellar line-up of operators, chefs, and professionals share their insights across jam-packed Q&As, panels, and masterclasses.
The topics covered included staffing strategies, hospitality marketing, legal issues in hospitality, navigating the AI wave, sustainability, menu design, and future food and beverage trends.
MCs Tawnya Bahr from Straight To The Source and food media personality and journalist Nerida Conway kicked off the day with an intimate discussion with Australian Venue Co.’s Telina Menzies.
The executive chef spoke about overseeing 33 venues across the country and how they use native ingredients in the kitchen. “Education is key when we write menus, and I think it’s important to put native ingredients in front of people and start conversations,” Menzies told the audience. “But we certainly have fallen behind with embracing our native culture and playing homage to that.”
The executive chef also covered
the importance of mental health and prioritising people as a manager. “We need to be better in that space,” they admitted. “That’s where I see the most investment for me in terms of time ... is my people and being a better leader for them.”
A panel on staffing with Sarah Dougas from Trader House, Nathan Toleman from The Mulberry Group, Lee Smith from Stokehouse, and Adam Brownell from Hector’s Deli followed, revealing important insights on effective recruitment tools.
Dougas said staff referrals had been a successful means for Trader House to find valuable workers. “For the vast majority of roles, we still use the traditional method of going through Seek, and for more senior roles, we’ve been going through LinkedIn,” she relayed. “But the best results are coming from staff referrals. People who work for us are advocates of our company and that’s a very powerful tool.”
Smith looks after 80–130 staff at Stokehouse and said the tables have turned when it comes to hiring, with venues needing to sell themselves to prospective employees. “We’ve been on the backfoot as employers and throughout
Covid-19 it was, ‘What can I do to get you to work for us?’” he said. “It’s nice to see it balance out more now, but writing job ads is still a sales-focused task. While we all know it, people outside the industry don’t know how much you can get out of hospitality and what you can learn.”
Brownell spoke about Hector’s Deli’s new four-day work model, urging operators to adopt unique practices to help make the industry more appealing. He asked the audience how many believed they would have a long-term career in hospitality when they started their first job. “Now there’s about a dozen there [with their hands up] and that’s a good indication we need to change and get around half of the room putting their hands up,” he said. “We have an obligation to change that perception and make it an appealing industry. We’re fighting against other industries to hire young workers.”
Marketing was next on the program, with practical advice issued by Monica Styles from Canned Goods, Wendy Hargreaves from Bread & Butter Media, Joss JennerLeuthart from Belles Hot Chicken, and writer and publicist Genevieve Phelan.
Phelan works on both sides of the media
8 | Hospitality IN FOCUS // HLS
sphere as a writer and a publicist, and said a tailored pitch is key to getting the attention of journalists. “A humanised approach is important,” she said. “You want to keep it interesting to stand out in what is typically a very busy inbox. I love receiving pitches with a quippy, interesting subject line and a unique and personalised greeting.”
Styles spoke about social media trends and reminded delegates not to get caught up in the flurry. “It is much more important to create connections with your audience where they are online than to worry too much about the numbers,” she said. But when it comes to numbers, Styles revealed that while TikTok is leading the way, the industry should focus on Instagram. She suggested using carousel posts to demonstrate a more humanised side of a business and to use Stories to repost usergenerated content and show behind-thescenes insights.
After lunch, it was time for a drink with Sara Ramadan from Omnia, who took guests through her recipe for a spicy margarita, which was delivered to delegates during the demo.
Menu design is a necessary but sometimes challenging task for chefs, but a masterclass with Ian Curley provided ideas and a laugh, too. “When designing a menu, I look at what the place is first and what the staff levels are,” he said. “For example, there’s no point in trying to put a vegan restaurant near a mining area — it’s just not going to happen.”
He also touched on the challenge that is costing, and told guests to look to seasonal
produce to create budget-friendly options. “Go and have a look at what good fruit and vegetables are out there at the moment,” he said. “You can have a really good dish with carrots which is cheaper opposed to an eye fillet that will cost you $50 a plate before all the trimmings.”
It was then time to chat all things sustainability with a panel of inspirational eco operators including Luke Whearty from Byrdi, Alejandro Saravia from Farmer’s Daughters, Blayne Bertoncello from O.My, and Jungeun Chae and Yoora Yoon from Chae.
Bertoncello spoke about some of the dishes he has created using ingredients from his estate garden. “Our artichoke dish uses the entire plant,” he explained. “The stalks go through a composting cycle and every single part of the plant is used including the skins.”
Chae and Yoon spoke on all things fermentation which is an intrinsic part of the food served at their intimate sixseat venue. “Korean cuisine is largely based around fermentation and dried
ingredients,” explained Yoon. “So that allows us to really minimise food waste because we try to ferment, dry, or salt most of our vegetables when they are seasonal and at their most nutritious.”
Whearty rounded out the session by encouraging operators to get staff involved in the process. “If you’ve got an excess of something, give it to one of your staff as a little homework project,” he said, using carrot tops as an example.
The final session of the day saw James Thorpe from Odd Culture Group, Nick Mahlook from Public Hospitality, Tate Connolly from Impossible Foods, and Simon Denman from Bahama Gold discuss the upcoming trends they predict will be of importance for the coming year.
Connolly shared her thoughts on why convenience and personalisation are big drivers in the industry. “Customisation is a big trend that’s happening and comes through into food,” she explained. “How can you personalise the products and how can you give people an experience that suits them?”
Denman noted the role of hybrid venues and keeping things simple. “The hybrid model is something we’re seeing more and more of,” he said. “It’s a way for venues to add value to whatever it is they’re doing. But where the industry has been going for a long time is definitely the pared-back model with less frills.”
MCs Bahr and Conway closed the day before delegates came together for networking drinks and canapés. Stay tuned for the next event hosted by Hospitality magazine. ■
September 2023 | 9 IN FOCUS // HLS
“We have an obligation to change that perception and make it an appealing industry.”
– Adam Brownell
Entrée
The latest openings, books, events, and more.
EDITED BY Amy Northcott
Feeling the heat
Poetica has opened in North Sydney and is the latest venue from Etymon Projects, the group behind The Charles Grand Brasserie & Bar and Loulou Bistro, Boulangerie & Traiteur. Poetica is a celebration of fire and has been fitted out with a 15-metrelong open kitchen featuring a Josper charcoal oven and custom wood-burning hearth. Head Chef Connor Hartley-Simpson is spearheading the culinary offering and has put together a menu that lists oysters topped with ’nduja and a guindilla pepper as well as an extensive steak program. The space also has a 40-seat bar and terrace with its own fire-centric food offering. poetica.sydney
Local taste
How to Drink Australian: An Essential Modern Wine Book
Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross
Murdoch Books ; $79.99
Sommelier, importer, and author Jane Lopes has teamed up with her husband and master sommelier Jonathan Ross to craft a modern-day guide to Australia’s wine scene. How to Drink Australian is divided into state and then region, covering history, microclimates, trends, iconic producers, geographical features, and issues brought on by climate change. The book bridges an important gap between today’s wine regions and Australia’s first custodians, with local wine industry figures Mike Bennie, Kavita Faiella, and Hannah Day also providing insights.
Pont Brasserie opens at the InterContinental Sydney
Pont Brasserie is the latest venue to join Mulpha Hospitality’s growing portfolio which includes Bar Messenger in Sydney and Ioesco Cucina in Queensland. French-trained chef John Lyons is leading the kitchen after time working at Michelin-starred restaurant Rascasse in Belgium and the Cottage Point Inn in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park. “We want to ensure the menu and the friendly, efficient service appeals to both time-strapped corporates, our international and local hotel guests, and those looking for a distinctive Australian dining experience,” says Lyons. Highlights from the menu include English crumpets with sea urchin; Balmain bug with roast garlic velouté and bisque; and barramundi with Tasmanian wasabi velouté and finger lime. pontbrasserie.com.au
10 | Hospitality NEWS // Entrée
Photography by Steven Woodburn
Belles comes to Bondi
Sydney’s Bondi Beach is set to get a taste of the Belles Hot Chicken magic with a new diner and bar arriving in October. The venue will open in the former Fonda Mexican location with a fit out inspired by a 1970s-era American beachside diner. “Comfort food, great booze and tunes just metres from Australia’s most iconic beach — a match made in heaven,” says Managing Director of Belles Hot Chicken Joss JennerLeuthart. “After opening the doors to our CBD flagship at Circular Quay, we pounced at the opportunity to transform Fonda’s iconic location to our new home.” belleshotchicken.com
Photography by Dexter Kim
Hands on
Fish Butchery: Mastering The Catch, Cut, and Craft
Josh Niland
Hardie Grant Books ; $70
Acclaimed chef and owner of Sydney’s Saint Peter, Fish Butchery, and Peterman Josh Niland has put pen to paper for his third book Fish Butchery, which celebrates the art of cooking with fish from start to finish. Niland has selected 15 species that are explored across the concepts of catch, cut, and craft. The book is a comprehensive guide on choosing the right type of fish and preparing it, also including more than 40 recipes covering pastries, charcuterie, and snacks.
Byron Bay welcomes The Smoking Camel
The Smoking Camel is bringing a taste of Levantine flavours to Byron Bay. The share-style menu crafted by Executive Chef and Co-Owner Robbie Oijvall and Head Chef Joachim Borenius draws on dishes from countries such as Lebanon, Turkey, and Israel. Expect cumin-spiced beetroot with labneh; sumac tuna kibbeh nayeh with pickled barberries; shawarma-spiced chicken; and lamb rump shish. The wine list features drops from Lebanese wineries that use indigenous grape varieties from the Bekka Valley. thesmokingcamel.com
Photography by Parker Blain
Another side to the story
Adelaide’s Hyde Park has welcomed a new culinary resident with the opening of Four Sides Bar & Kitchen. It’s the second venue from Fabian Streit, Nazzareno Falaschetti, and Baz Rampal who are the trio behind neighbouring French restaurant Bistro Français. The menu is a showcase of each owner’s heritage and has a broad selection of grilled, smoked, and charcoal-cooked dishes. “It’s four unique backgrounds coming together, the three of us coming from different countries combined with living the Australian way of life,” says Streit.
September 2023 | 11 NEWS // Entrée
Flooded cultivation has abundant yield
Leaves are a source of vitamins
A and C Turns purple when cooked
Taro
Origins
Taro is one of the world’s most ancient crops and is part of the Araceae family. With a scientific name of Colocasia esculenta , taro is a root vegetable that has edible corms, leaves, and stems. The vegetable is prolific across multiple countries, and is an essential foodstuff in Africa, Southeast Asia, Southern India, East Asia, and the Oceanic region where it is native in many areas. The word taro is said to derive from the Maori language, with the vegetable referred to as ube in Tagalog, and ede in Igbo.
The C. esculenta var. aquatilis species is native to the Kimberley region, while the common variety is an invasive weed in Western Australia, the Northern Territory, Queensland, and New South Wales.
Growth and harvest
A perennial tropical plant, taro can be grown
One of the world’s most ancient, cultivated crops
One variety is native to the Kimberley region in Western Australia
Categorised as an invasive species in some countries
Nigeria is the largest producer of taro
Can grow in dry or flooded conditions
in paddy fields that receive or have access to large amounts of cool water or rainfall. It can be grown in flooded conditions, but stagnant or warm water can result in rot. The growing process is also longer compared to dry-land cultivation. Taro prefers deep, moist, swamp-like soil conditions in areas that receive heavy rainfall. The plant takes around six to 12 months to mature when farmed on dry land compared to 12 to 15 months in a wetland environment. Taro is typically harvested by hand, with people using tools to loosen the soil around the plant before pulling the tuber out.
Appearance and flavour profile
Taro plants grow up to 1.5m in height and have large light green leaves that are heart-shaped. The corms are spherical and are comparable to a tennis ball in size. The tubers are brown in colour and are covered
in stringy fibres, but the interior flesh is white or beige with flecks that are pink or purple.
The root vegetable has a mild, nutty flavour with an element of sweetness. Taro is comparable to sweet potato but is slightly starchier and tends to take on the flavours of the ingredients it’s prepared with, making it a chameleon ingredient.
Culinary applications
There are many ways to prepare taro including roasting, steaming, and boiling. In the Cook Islands, the leaves are cooked with coconut milk, onion, and proteins. Samoan cuisine sees corms baked with whole pigs in an umu (earth oven) and it is also a popular ingredient in Asian desserts such as taro purée in China and as a base to make milk tea which is often paired with tapioca pearls or jellies. ■
12 | Hospitality PRODUCE // Taro
The root vegetable is at home in stir fries as it is in boba.
WORDS Annabelle Cloros
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Bar cart
Thirst quenchers, slow sippers, and all things beverage related.
EDITED BY Amy Northcott
Run for the hills
The Canberra District’s Collector Wines have looked to the New South Wales region Hilltops for its latest Shiraz release. The 2022 Cherry Orchard Shiraz is crafted from a range of parcels across the region from vines aged between 22 and 45 years old. The grapes underwent malolactic fermentation before spending time in a mix of new and seasoned Allier and Troncais oak. Cherry Orchard is currently drinking beautifully with dark cherry and plum but also has the potential to age. Priced at $30; available online and from selected retailers. collectorwines.com.au
Sweet treat
Zero-alcohol specialists Brew Tropic are channelling the sweeter things in life with its new-release beverage Day in Lieu. The non-alcoholic Kriek-style beer is inspired by a Cherry Ripe chocolate bar and has notes of sour cherries, cocoa, and coconut. Day in Lieu is made with pale and Vienna malts and charred with American oak, resulting in a rounded finish. $25 for a four-pack; available from mid-September. brewtropic.com.au
Worth the wait
Four Pillars have teamed up with Tasmania’s Lark Distillery to launch Whisky Barrel gin. The tipple started with the Yarra Valley-based gin specialists placing Rare Dry gin in old Sherry and Apera casks for around three years. Then it was time for Lark Distillery to lend a hand, sharing its whisky barrels for the spirit to age for an additional six months. The end result is a cask-strength sipper with notes of caramel and toffee. Try it as is or serve with a splash of water. $140 and available at all Four Pillars locations, online, and at Heinemann Australia. fourpillarsgin.com
Dream team
Melbourne cocktail bar Apollo Inn is celebrating its opening with an exclusive single-cask release with whiskey specialists The Gospel. The Gospel Projects High Wheat is crafted from a single cask selected by Apollo Inn Bar Manager Cameron Parish and The Gospel Co-Founder Ben Bowles. “The mash bill of the high wheat and the double-barrel maturation inclusive of a heavy toast barrel matched perfectly to what I was looking for — there’s a sweetness, richness, and toastiness to the whiskey,” says Parish. The Apollo Inn is serving the tipple in two new cocktails: the Manhattan Number 6 and the venue’s take on the highball called the Cablegram. $140 per bottle; available online at The Gospel and in-venue at Apollo Inn. thegospelwhiskey.com
14 | Hospitality NEWS // Drinks
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DRINKS // Signature Cocktails 16 | Hospitality
Signature Cocktails
Step into spring with a Gin Basil Smash from a new cocktail tome.
A SIGNATURE COCKTAIL is a bespoke drink that expresses the nature of the time, person, venue, city, or country for which it was created. One can order a Martini just about anywhere in the world that serves cocktails. However, sipping a Martini in London at Dukes or the Connaught hotel bars are experiences unto themselves. These two distinct and iconic Martinis are prepared with thrillingly unique methods and presentations that characterise those settings. Their marks are on them. It’s not just a Martini. It’s a Dukes Martini. A Connaught Martini. That’s a signature.
A signature can be originated by a bar or bartender — such as the Bellini, created by Giuseppe Cipriani as the house aperitif at Harry’s Bar, Venice, and named for Renaissance artist Giovanni Bellini following his grand exhibition in the city in 1948. Or the Espresso Martini by Dick Bradsell at Soho Brasserie, London, the result of a now-legendary request from a certain supermodel.
There are national signatures — Ti’ Punch of Martinique (born in Guadeloupe), the Pisco Sour of Peru, or the Siam Sunray of Thailand — as well as playful twists on an existing theme. The
Grasshopper Gibson at Hanky Panky, Mexico City, is served with dried grasshoppers and Parmesan, to replicate a traditional Oaxacan snack; and Liz Furlong’s Leche de Tigre Martini is made with a clarified mix of sea bass, chilli, and peppers (among other things), reminiscent of a Costa Rican white fish ceviche.
And there are dozens of modern classics — Leslie Cofresi’s Lavender Mule at La Factoria in Puerto Rico is an elegant take on the Moscow Mule; Anu Apte’s Saffron Sandalwood Sour at Rob Roy in Seattle uses flavors of Eastern Indian cuisine in a twist on a gin sour; and Sam Ross at Milk & Honey in New York rearranged the architecture of the Gold Rush and New York Sour to create the Penicillin — to name just a few. Why did so many cocktails of the past find new life decades later? And do we even need variations on proven formulas like Negronis? In the world of cocktails, there’s always room for exploration, ways to adapt flavour combinations, and more ingredients and gadgets within reach than ever before. People and places want to be known for certain drinks, to leave their mark, and more importantly, people want to drink them.
September 2023 | 17 DRINKS // Signature Cocktails
WORDS Amanda Schuster
Gin Basil Smash is a modern, more aromatic interpretation of a Southside by way of a Whiskey Smash, using basil instead of mint. It was created in the summer of 2008 by Jorg Meyer at Le Lion in Hamburg, Germany, where it was first referred to as “Gin Pesto.” Since then, the muddled refresher has become one of the most popular drinks in all of Germany. According to a June 2021 article by Robert Simonson in Punch, sore-armed bartenders throughout the country call it “Meyer’s Curse.”
Meyer first wrote about his recipe in the online forum “Bitters Blog,” which he ran with Stephan Berg of Bitter Truth. Meyer says he was inspired to use basil after spotting another recipe using a basil garnish instead of the traditional mint. He originally built the specs around bourbon, based on cocktail luminary Dale DeGroff’s Whiskey Smash, but was unhappy with
In
world of cocktails, there’s always room for exploration, ways to adapt flavour combinations ...
Gin Basil Smash
Year: 2008
Origin: Hamburg, Germany
Inventor: Jörg Meyer
Premises: Le Lion
Glassware: Double Rocks the taste profile. However, Meyer was much more successful pairing its specific savoury-herbaceous flavor with gin, specifically Rutte Celery Gin.
Gin Basil Smash remains one of the top sellers at Le Lion (reportedly they sell 22,000 a year and go through over 3,000 bottles of gin) not only because it hits the spot on a warm day, but it also sparked culinary intrigue with its bright green hue and use of basil. The cocktail also became a recipe staple for gin brands, not just Rutte, at promotional events and cocktail festivals in Germany and throughout Europe and the UK. In 2012, the Instagram-famous words “Cradle of the Gin Basil Smash” were painted outside the restaurant, a nod to La Floridita’s “La Cuna del Daiquiri” in Havana, Cuba.
Meyer has said that when preparing the recipe, it is better to use too much basil than not enough.
Alcohol Type: Gin
• 12 fresh basil leaves
• 60ml dry gin (Rutte Celery for authenticity)
• 30ml fresh lemon juice
• 22ml simple syrup
Garnish: basil sprig
Muddle the basil leaves in the bottom of a shaker tin until well smooshed. Add the remaining ingredients and shake with ice until well chilled. Fine strain into a double rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a basil sprig. ■
This is an edited excerpt from Signature Cocktails by Amanda Schuster published by Phaidon. On sale 26 September 2023 $69.95. phaidon.com
18 | Hospitality DRINKS // Signature Cocktails
the
®
Duck for the win
LOOKING TO SPICE up the protein options on your menu? Thanks to a recent free-trade agreement between Australia and Thailand, chefs can now choose Thai duck products for their dishes. It’s the first time Thai duck products are available in Australia which means more variety for chefs and operators who are looking to add a new flair to their culinary offerings.
In line with the trade agreement, the world’s largest agro-industrial company CP Foods has launched high-quality duck products. The range features a versatile range of duck products ideal for bringing an unrivalled flavour profile and wider range of variety to any menu. The CP Foods Thai duck range covers shredded, roasted, boneless, and Peking duck options in easy-to-prepare frozen formats. The products are catching the attention of chefs and operators for their easy application, low-cost, versatility, and time-saving characteristics.
Kritsadee ‘Boston’ Pruitthiarphakul from Carlton’s Ying Thai 2 is one chef who has seen the benefits of the CP Foods Thai duck range. He recently introduced the CP Foods Thai duck range to his menu, using it in an array of dishes. Khun Boston says
the products have brought a new level of quality to his menu, while also remaining affordable. “Compared to [others] in the market, the quality is good, plus the price is really reasonable,” he notes.
Another benefit Khun Boston has found is the versatility of the CP Foods Thai duck range which lends itself to different dishes across his offering. “We can make a variety of food by using the duck,” he says. “We do a chilli stir-fry with basil leaves, [where] we use the duck meat. We can adapt everything into a variety of Thai food … even entrée and main courses.”
The ease of preparation and application is also a plus for the chef. “It’s easy to install and keep because it is frozen, so it’s really easy to handle. People can take it out and thaw it, and then we slice it up.”
The frozen product also saves the kitchen team a lot of time during busy services. “You can take little pieces at the time to use compared to fresh roast duck where we have to take the whole duck, bone it, and cut it off. This one [product] saves a lot of time.” It also equals a cost cut for the venue when it comes to staffing. “It saves on staff as well ... for us [not] to [have to] pay someone to debone [the product].”
Zinc at Fed Square’s Chris Henderson is another chef who has seen the benefits of using the CP Foods Thai duck range. The British-born chef showcased the products in a six-course menu for over 100 hospitality professionals in Melbourne earlier this year. He found the products to be an easy addition to elevate his offering. “We didn’t have to do too much to it [the products],” says Henderson. “We made some sauces, garnishes, and some things to go with it, and it was easy to put together. If I can do it, anyone can.” Henderson used the CP Foods Thai duck product range in dishes including confit duck terrine; spiced duck breast bao with cucumber pickle; Peking duck pancakes; roast duck with Szechuan eggplant; and a duck fat salted caramel tart with hazelnut praline.
The CP Foods Thai Duck range is sure to add a new flair to your culinary offering while also introducing added benefits behind the scenes for chefs and operators. ■
Thinking of including duck on your menu?
To learn more about the CP Foods Thai duck range, visit cpfglobalsourcing.com/duck or contact Richard Lovell at orders@cpau.com.au; 0430 627 218.
20 | Hospitality ADVERTORIAL // CP Foods Australia
Chefs are using the newly launched Thai duck range from CP Foods with great results.
Savannah Sexton
CHEF SAVANNAH SEXTON has experienced many sides of the multi-faceted industry we call hospitality. From working in hatted finedining restaurants to production-oriented pastry kitchens, it’s safe to say Sexton has worn many hats. After spending most of their career in the Sunshine State, Sexton has put down roots in Adelaide and is working for The Big Easy Group. It’s here where they are serving up a taste of nostalgia with retro-inspired dishes that take diners down memory lane. Sexton reflects on their career thus far and cooking with memories front of mind.
The relationship between food and the land has always been an important one for Savannah Sexton. Growing up in Queensland’s food bowl Toowoomba with a horticulturist father meant produce was a key part of the chef’s childhood. “The connection to where food grows and how it gets to our table was never too far away,” says Sexton. “I always understood how food got to the shops and how some things don’t grow all year.”
Sexton’s mother is from South Africa, which means they were introduced to the techniques and traditions of the country’s cuisine. “South
Africa has braai culture and summer barbecuing was huge growing up,” they say. Naturally, a culinary career was on the cards for Sexton, who was immersed in cooking and food from an early age. “I wanted to be a chef pretty much since I was able to formulate a thought about having to work for the rest of my life.”
Sexton’s first experience in a professional kitchen was at a Thai restaurant in Toowoomba owned by family friends. “I was just washing up and scrambling eggs for fried rice — that of kind of thing,” they say. An apprenticeship soon followed for the chef, who continued the learning process in Toowoomba. “It was a unique apprenticeship [being] in a smallish town with lots of good farming and food connections,” they say. “I’m grateful for how it [reiterated] a lot of what I already knew about seasonality and how growing food worked.”
Sexton had their first taste of fine dining at Toowoomba’s two-hatted Veraison restaurant before moving into pastry at Brisbane’s Chester Street bakery. “I’d always been drawn to the pastry section,” admits Sexton. “I really
22 | Hospitality
The chef is taking diners down memory lane with nostalgic dishes.
WORDS Amy Northcott
PROFILE //
Savannah Sexton
appreciated the science and the art required to produce good dessert, bread, and pastries.” The chef experienced a production-style kitchen with no set service time at Chester Street. “It was my first time working in a production-style environment,” they say. “I learned a lot there about time management, working clean, and doing high volumes to a high standard.”
But after a while, the buzz of service drew Sexton back into restaurants as a pastry chef at Brisbane’s two-hatted Stokehouse. It was a good challenge for Sexton to apply their newly minted pastry skills in a guest-oriented setting. “I still think a well-rounded dessert menu is still the hardest thing [to make],” they say. “I’m a believer in the first and last thing someone eats defining their experience because it’s what they remember.”
Three years passed at Stokehouse and Sexton moved from pastry chef to junior sous where they took on more management duties. “I learned a lot about how to look after a team, manage myself, and how to operate a kitchen,” says the chef. “Stokehouse was a big kitchen. We had about 19 chefs on the roster over the busy period, so it wasn’t a small place.”
Come March 2020, Sexton moved into a role at Alba Bar & Deli, where they worked in a shoebox-style kitchen serving a five-course feed-me menu and bar food. “It [the food] was rooted in Spain with a touch of New York … like if Brooklyn and Basque Country had a baby,” says Sexton.
Working solo in the kitchen meant Sexton focused on being resourceful and time conscious. “I learned a lot about being smart in menu design and making stuff as awesome and delicious as possible,” they recall. “But doing that with restricted space and equipment was also a very useful lesson to learn.”
Richard Ousby then approached Sexton about a role working across Cru Bar & Cellar, At Sixes and Sevens, and The Overflow Estate. Sexton again moved into a management position, but lockdown meant it was a short stint and ultimately inspired a move interstate.
South Australia was the destination of choice for the chef. “I sent a couple of venues my resume on a whim to be like, ‘Hey, just putting it out there, I’m keen to work’,” says Sexton. “In the same breath, I had one from Good Gilbert saying, ‘Do you want to come and be a head chef here?’ It was too easy for me not to go.”
10 days later, Sexton found themselves at Adelaide’s Good Gilbert working solo in a compact kitchen. The Euro-centric venue was something new for the chef, who was also adjusting to living in a new city. “I felt lost for the first couple of months, but the Adelaide hospitality community is pretty special,” says Sexton. “I was instantly embraced by every chef and restaurant I reached out to. Everyone who I asked for help helped me, which was amazing.”
Good Gilbert’s menu saw Sexton serve up
The chef grew up in Queensland’s food bowl
Toowoomba
Sexton created a nostalgic take on a gilda with kabana
House of George has an open-fire hearth in the kitchen
Malva is the South African version of a sticky date pudding
PROFILE // Savannah Sexton
“I think nostalgia and memories are a lot of what makes food special for people
… I think it’s a really important part of how we eat.”
September 2023 | 23
– Savannah Sexton
nostalgia-inspired dishes, something they also did at Alba Bar & Dining and Stokehouse, too. “My first piece of nostalgic food was at Stokehouse and it was a version of a Splice,” they recall. “It was a dessert with pineapple and lemon myrtle finished with eucalyptus caramel.” Sexton says they enjoy recreating dishes that evoke a reaction from diners. “I think nostalgia and memories are a lot of what makes food special for people … I think it’s a really important part of how we eat,” they say. “I think food is more delicious when it’s approachable and familiar.”
Inspiration largely comes from childhood experiences for Sexton, who has taken everyday dishes and created upmarket fare. “I love to [work with] classic Aussie things I ate as a teenager and stuff my grandma used to make
me,” they explain. An example is a riff on a chico roll with blood sausage at Alba Bar & Dining and a kabana gilda at Good Gilbert.
“It was like a grown-up gilda and an ode to the kabana stick,” laughs Sexton. “We used mortadella and great cheese from the Adelaide Hills with ketchup made from the low-cut fruit growing in the carpark.”
Fast-forward to the present, and Sexton is working with Adelaide’s Big Easy Group. Their role covers food at CBD favourite The Stag Public House as well as the group’s latest venue House of George which rebranded from Yiasou George this year. Sexton describes the food offering at House of George as: “Euro disco. The menu is tight but concise with something for everyone to enjoy. It’s all familiar flavours and classic pairings that complement our greater Mediterranean offer.”
House of George has provided a platform for Sexton to draw on their South African heritage, with the kitchen fitted out with an open-fire hearth. “The hearth is similar to many home braais across South Africa,” says Sexton. “Everything is getting a little kiss from the fire in some way or the other.”
The dessert menu features Sexton’s take on the South African dessert malva. “It’s South Africa’s version of sticky date except it’s made with apricot jam and is a very simplistic, wartime dessert,” says the chef. “We make a slightly fancier version of it in the restaurant where it gets cooked in the wood fire and served with vanilla gelato and ouzo butterscotch sauce.”
Sexton’s memory-oriented approach is channelled throughout most dishes on the menu — guests just might not know it. “There’s plenty of nostalgic elements hidden in there in a bit of a sneaky way,” says Sexton. Take a bite-sized snack, for example. “It’s a Ritz cracker with salt and vinegar butter and smoked whiting,” says Sexton. “It’s served with smoked trout and roe from Yarra Valley Caviar.”
The rest of 2023 is expected to be busy for Sexton, who has been invited to be a judge at the Australian Grand Dairy Awards. At House of George, Sexton and the team are also gearing up to launch a series of events that will see them collaborate with some of their favourite Australian venues. If the chef’s culinary resume is anything to go by, there’s no doubt the next chapter will be one for the memory books. ■
PROFILE // Savannah Sexton
“I wanted to be a chef pretty much since I was able to formulate a thought about having to work for the rest of my life.”
24 | Hospitality
– Savannah Sexton
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Bresaola carpaccio with Grana Padano PDO
The classic Italian dish is levelled up with Grana Padano PDO.
CHEF DONATO COFANO is the owner of Tacco & Tosca restaurant in Middle Park, Victoria. The Italian eatery is known for its trattoria-style approach to dining, which combines premium local produce with classic Italian techniques.
Bresaola originated in Valtellina in the Lombardy region in Italy, and sees beef salted and seasoned with garlic and spices before it is air-dried for around three weeks. The savoury quality of the cured meat means it’s the ideal fit with celery, pear, and Grana Padano PDO, which is Cofano’s cheese of choice at the restaurant. “One of my favourite dishes to make with Grana Padano is carpaccio bresaola,” he says.
The chef’s composition of the dish
starts with layering thin slices of bresaola on a plate before adding chopped celery and sliced pear for freshness. The dish is dressed with a vinaigrette of olive oil and balsamic and garnished with celery leaves before Grana Padano PDO is shaved over the top. “The taste is sweet and not too aggressive,” says Cofano. “The dish has balance between the beef, pear, balsamic, and celery which all go together.”
For more information on Grana Padano PDO, visit congafoods.com.au
Scan the qr code to watch the masterclass
Ingredients
Serves four
300g thin sliced beef bresaola
1 celery heart
1 green pear
1 lemon
100ml extra-virgin olive oil
30ml balsamic vinegar
30ml balsamic glaze
100g Grana Padano PDO
Salt and pepper
Method
1. Thinly slice celery heart and pear into medium-sized pieces.
2. Place thin slices of beef bresaola on a plate and place the slices of celery heart and pear on top of the bresaola.
3. Mix extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and juice of a lemon in a bowl and pour the dressing over the bresaola, pear, and celery.
4. Shave the Grana Padano PDO 16 months over the plate.
5. Finish off by drizzling the balsamic glaze.
26 | Hospitality ADVERTORIAL // Conga Foods
Pumpkin gnocchi with Grana Padano PDO cream, pancetta & sage
A winter-warming classic gets the Grana Padano PDO treatment.
GNOCCHI IS A classic for a reason and has long been a must-order for diners looking for a comforting, hearty dish. The foundational pasta is the perfect match with a cheese-based sauce, which is where Grana Padano PDO comes into the picture.
Chef Donato Cofano from Tacco & Tosca replaces potato with pumpkin to make his gnocchi and begins by roasting slices of the vegetable with olive oil before breaking it up with a whisk. Cofano then combines the pumpkin with flour and grated Grana Padano PDO to make a pasta dough. “The reason why I use Grana Padano is because we don’t need a lot — it’s very tasty,” he says.
Once the dough reaches the desired consistency, it’s rolled out and the gnocchi
is cut. Cofano places the gnocchi in a pot of boiling salted water and removes once they float to the top. Meanwhile, pieces of pancetta are fried off with olive oil until crisp and added to a luxurious, creamy sauce made with Grana Padano PDO. Cofano coats the gnocchi with the sauce and finishes the dish off with crushed crispy sage leaves and a generous grating of Grana Padano PDO. ■
For more information on Grana Padano PDO, visit congafoods.com.au
Scan the qr code to watch the masterclass
Ingredients
Serves four
700g Kent pumpkin
2 shallots
100g pancetta
150g flour tipo 00
2 egg whites
400ml milk
15ml extra-virgin olive oil
300g grated Grana Padano PDO (100g for dough, 200g for cream)
100g shaved Grana Padano PDO
16 sage leaves
Salt and pepper
Method
1. Bake pumpkin with shallots until completely roasted. Remove the shallots, mash the pumpkin well, and place in a large bowl.
2. Add flour, egg whites, and 100g of grated Grana Padano to the mashed pumpkin and mix by hand until a dough is formed. Knead for a few minutes.
3. Cut the dough into smaller pieces, roll each piece into a cylinder, and cut each cylinder into 1-inch pieces.
4. Cut the pancetta into small pieces and shallow fry with a drizzle of EVO until completely cooked. Add eight sage and leave a few minutes. Set pan aside.
5. In a saucepan, over low to medium heat, mix milk and the rest of the grated grana Padano until a creamlike texture is formed. Add salt and pepper to taste.
6. Place the gnocchi in boiling salted water. When they rise, remove from the pot and place into the pan where the pancetta was cooked.
7. Mix cooked pancetta with gnocchi until all pieces are coated with pancetta and sage flavour.
8. Serve on a plate and add a few spoons of the Grana Padano cream on top.
9. Finish off with shaved Grana Padano PDO and garnish with the remaining sage leaves cut into smaller pieces.
September 2023 | 27 ADVERTORIAL // Conga Foods
Bagels
Slow bagels are niche and growing.
WORDS Annabelle Cloros
28 | Hospitality FEATURE
Bagels
//
THE BAGEL HAS been around for centuries and has long been of importance to Polish, Jewish, Israeli, and American communities. The round baked good has gone through an evolution, not only growing in terms of size, but iterations, be it sourdough-based, wood-fired, or the megadense yeast-based hunks stacked in plastic (à la supermarket varieties).
Here in Australia, the bagel doesn’t have the same chokehold on the population as it does abroad, but there’s a growing demand for our take on the O-shaped bread — one that is made with biodynamic grains milled by local flour producers, slow fermented, and favours quality over quantity.
Hospitality speaks to Carmen Newton and Jack Muir-Rigby from Masses Bagels and Mike Russell from Baker Bleu about the magic that is the bagel.
Masses’ Carmen Newton and Jack Muir-Rigby have long worked in Melbourne’s hospitality sector at venues including Market Lane Coffee, Embla, Etta, and Hector’s Deli. While the concept is very much local, the idea for what was to become Masses struck in Japan. “We decided to move to Japan for about seven months because I needed a break,” says MuirRigby. “I’d been a chef for the past 12 years and was burnt out. One day we came across a bakery where we lived and they had freshly baked bagels that were incredible — it gave us an idea of something we could work towards that would create better work–life balance for us both.”
Newton and Muir-Rigby moved back to Melbourne and returned to work. Muir-Rigby was cooking at Etta, but starting a bagel business remained very much front of mind for the chef. The duo booked a lengthy research trip to the US and Canada, but Covid-19 hit and the trip was cancelled. “It threw a massive spanner in the works and was a curveball for our plan,” says Muir-Rigby.
Discovering the wide world of bagels and working in bakeries overseas was off the cards, but Newton says the obstacle gave the pair the kick they needed. “It pushed us to just start doing it,” she says. “Jack stopped working and had all this free time, so he started posting bagels on Instagram, and we ended up getting so much support. He was baking every day and delivering bagels throughout Melbourne.”
The home-based business progressed to a bricks and mortar location — Etta, to be specific.
“They allowed us to cook and sell our bagels there and the head chef at the time Charley Snadden-Wilson was making sandwiches using our bagels, so we got a bit of a following from there,” says Newton. Hector’s Deli was the next stop for Muir-Rigby, who was keen to learn about the ins and outs of running a business.
“Dom [Wilton, founder] was keen to have me on board and I had agreed to work for him after our US trip,” says the chef. “Timing-wise, it worked out because he gave me a job even though they weren’t open due to lockdown. He gave me the reins when they had their first child, and it was a sink or swim moment. Working there was one of the most rewarding things I have ever done — learning about how a successful small (at the time) business operated — I don’t think we’d be where we are today without that opportunity.”
Fast-forward a couple of years and some bagel pop-ups at Hector’s in between and it was high time to move into utter bagel mode. “The bagels were put on the backburner for about two years while I was at Hector’s and we were both fully employed and quite busy,” says Muir-Rigby.
The pair now balance Masses with their other jobs, dedicating three days a week to bagels which covers production and a stall at the Carlton Farmers Market. It’s the first physical platform for Masses as a standalone brand, with the pair immersing themselves in the community and forming connections with fellow creatives and producers. “Being able to start at the market has been incredible,” says Muir-Rigby. “It’s made our job of coming up with menu ideas so much easier because we get to use such good produce from around Victoria.”
But before we skip to the end product, it’s essential to understand what goes into a Masses bagel, which is the result of 200-odd recipes over five years of development. It all starts with the flour, which forms 90 per cent of the dough. Masses sources baker’s flour from Wholegrain Milling and combine it with an Italian doublezero flour which rounds out the other 10 per cent. “I think it’s given us the best result in terms of texture and flavour,” says Muir-Rigby, who’s currently working at Wild Life Bakery and churning out 200 loaves of sourdough a day. “It was the only way for me to be able to troubleshoot basically anything that comes up with making bagels. In my head, if I could learn to handle dough every day, we should be fine.”
Having worked in restaurants for many years, the inclusion of wild fermentation in the process
September 2023 | 29 FEATURE // Bagels
“You want the texture to be soft and chewy inside but crunchy on the outside.” –Carmen Newton
was a no-brainer, which basically means the 260 or so bagels Masses produce each week are yeast-free and given the time they need to naturally leaven. Masses’ starter is left in the fridge during off days and is taken out for a feed on Wednesday night and again on Thursday morning. Five hours later, it’s time for the starter’s final meal before it’s added to the dough mix and left to rest overnight. “On Friday, I divide the dough into five tubs and then we bring each tub out and one person will portion the dough and the other will roll it into balls that are left to come up to temperature and sit for about an hour and a half,” says Muir-Rigby. “Then we poke a hole in them and let them sit again before they’re boiled.”
The bagels are boiled in a vat of water and barley malt, which is what gives the bagels a shiny exterior. The pair tested everything from sugar and honey to rice malt before settling on barley. “We wanted it to be vegan and barley malt is such a healthy product that is really delicious and adds depth of flavour,” says Newton. The bagels are boiled for about 45 seconds on each side before they’re moved to a high-heat oven — essential for crunch. “We turn them around at the 10-minute mark and then drop the heat — they’re baked for around 15 to 18 minutes. “The bagels have a super open crumb which is something we have been working towards,” adds Muir-Rigby. “You want the texture to be soft and chewy inside but crunchy on the outside,” quips Newton.
Saturday is market day where Masses sells an everything bagel topped with a seed combination with dehydrated crispy shallots and burnt fennel as well as a sea salt bagel. The third option revolves fortnightly and has included a fermented chilli, tomato, and sesame bagel as well as a malt and wattle seed number.
The bagels are available to purchase as is or as open sandwiches, which are piled with ingredients sourced from the markets atop a schmear of Masses’ house cream cheese. “The base of the cream cheese is quark from Schulz Organic Dairy,” says Muir-Rigby. “We couldn’t find a small-batch cream cheese supplier, so we mix the quark with another cream cheese product to stabilise it and then we mix it with whatever is in season. At the moment, we’re doing a smoked trout cream cheese with herbs and pickled tomato salt and chèvre cream cheese with roasted shallot and celeriac jam and Tuscan kale.”
“We only use three elements on a bagel so we’re not overloading it,” says Newton. “You still get the flavour of the bagel which is the star of the show.”
Markets will continue to be the platform of choice for Masses, and Newton and Rigby-Muir are looking to expand to other market locations. But the ultimate goal is to open their own store. “We are going to push for that in the next six to 12 months and save as much as we can,” says Muir-Rigby. “The goal is 100 per cent to open up a store,” adds Newton. “But even with the store, we want to continue to do markets as you reach such a broad audience.”
30 | Hospitality
“Bagels were one of the core items we started with, and have grown into what it is now.”
– Mike Russell
FEATURE // Bagels
Bagels
The best-selling Masses bagel is cream cheese with salt, honey from The 3 Bees, and Mount Zero olive oil
Baker Bleu is one of the pioneers of slow bagels in the country, with its Melbourne and Sydney stores churning out upwards of 7,000 bagels per week. Bagels have always been one of the keystones of the bakery, which Founder Mike Russell says were largely supermarket fare at the time he launched the first Baker Bleu location in 2016 with his wife Mia. “In Australia, bagels are mass-produced and are usually baked in an offsite location — there’s not much retail presence,” he says. “We opened in a Euro-centric part of Melbourne with a larger Jewish community, and I felt a sourdough bagel baked on-site at bakeries was missing, so we decided to go ahead and offer that in a retail environment. Bagels were one of the core items we started with, and have grown into what it is now.”
structure and makes it more digestible, while also resulting in the same beautiful shiny boiled bagel look you see in North America.”
Speaking of boiled, Baker Bleu’s bagels are not — they’re steamed. It’s a testy subject for many who prescribe to the ‘it’s not a bagel unless it’s boiled’ sentiment. “A lot of people are purists, and I see that as the same as saying a baguette isn’t a baguette unless it’s baked in France,” says Russell. “Some even say if it’s not boiled in New York water with honey, it’s not the same. But we steam our bagels, we don’t boil them. We make hundreds every day and it’s not possible to have a vat of boiling water to pass every bagel through before it goes into the oven. The other core thing with boiling is that it’s part of the leavening process. The method we use creates the same visual likeness and the same result.”
The bagels are automatically loaded into Baker Bleu’s oven to ensure they are not disturbed before they are hit with two to three litres of steam, which is what creates the glossy finish. “We use a lot of water and drench them in steam, then they’re baked for another 10 minutes at 280 degrees Celsius which gives them a beautiful finish and a tender consistency inside.”
Tasman sea salt is used in Baker Bleu’s bagels
The bagels at Baker Bleu are also made with flour sourced from Wholegrain Milling and are produced seven days a week in multi-seed, poppyseed, plain, and sesame iterations. The flour in the bakery’s country loaf is also used to make the bagels, which is possible due to the integrity of the grain grown in Australia.
“The protein levels are quite strong so we’re able to produce a bagel out of it with a slightly lower hydration,” says Russell, who also tips the production process as one of the key differences between sourdough bagels and North American bagels. “We mix the dough, shape them, form them, and rest them overnight for 18 hours. All of the sourdough helps break down the gluten
The Melbourne Baker Bleu stores were the first to sell topped bagels, with the product line also available at the Double Bay location in Sydney, which is a joint venture with Neil Perry. “Neil has contributed really creative open-faced bagel offerings and we are all the better for it,” says Russell. “We’ve done whipped ricotta with hot English mustard and cucumbers; pastrami; cherry tomatoes with parsley garnish; and whatever is seasonal. Neil has full creative licence as far as bagels go — the Baker Bleu bagels are the landing pad for all his magic. We take a lot of pride in making sure the bagels are at their best every day. Bagels are growing — it’s a growing thing.” ■
32 | Hospitality
Masses upcycle leftover produce to make elements such as tomato salt Baker Bleu sources linseeds and sesame seeds locally where possible FEATURE //
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Low steaks
Three venues are ensuring diners don’t have to fork out for a red meat hit.
WORDS Amy Northcott
PHOTOGRAPHY Pat Stevenson for Alfie’s and Kristoffer Paulsen for Le Foote
IF YOU’RE EVER on the hunt for a good steak, you’ll likely find one without exercising too much effort. Whether it’s a porterhouse, rump, or even a tomahawk — a cut of beef isn’t hard to source. But steak often comes with a hefty price tag, which means the protein is usually ordered by guests for special occasions over a casual meal — until now.
Venues are challenging the stereotype by putting steaks on the menu that don’t break the bank. Liquid & Larder’s James Bradey speaks to Hospitality about the group’s new value-for-money steakhouse Alfie’s, with Stefano Marano from Le Foote and Max Sharrad from Fugazzi covering cuts and cooking techniques.
Swillhouse’s Le Foote was one of Sydney’s most-anticipated restaurant openings this year. The Mediterranean grill always planned to put steak on the menu — and not just one, guests would have options. “We tested and tasted a huge variety of cuts, brands, and breeds,” says Head Chef Stefano Marano. “We found [the cuts we chose] to have the best consistency, caramelisation point, texture, and flavour.”
While quality and taste were part of the criteria, price also influenced the final decision. “I think it’s important to be able to cater for all (or at least most) customer needs and that includes price, size, and quality,” says Marano. “We could have picked some crazy expensive cuts and let customers pay for it, but we didn’t want to tuck into that market.”
34 | Hospitality FEATURE // Accessible steak options
The current menu lists steaks that cover multiple price points including a Jack’s Creek black Angus striploin for $64 plus a Black Tyde rib eye priced at $195. Both steaks are cooked over an open hearth of charcoal and wood, brushed with jus, and served with salsa verde and pickled onions.
Over at Adelaide’s Fugazzi, Executive Chef Max Sharrad is also serving up options when it comes to steak at the Italo-American bar and dining room. Price point is naturally a big factor for the chef when selecting proteins. “We always consider price [when choosing our cuts],” he says. “We have some slightly cheaper cuts and some that can fetch a higher price. It’s almost like a wine menu in a way. There’s value at the lower end and some real premium stuff if you are prepared to pay for it.”
Diners can find options ranging from a 250g flat iron steak that is part of the venue’s tasting menu to a 1kg Bistecca a la Fiorentina for $165. There’s also a sirloin steak with pepper sauce and frites for $69, and a 9+ Wagyu rump cap with mash and beef glaze for $45 per 100g. “We like to use a variety of different options each with their own unique flavour, texture, and aesthetic,” says Sharrad.
The chef believes a broader consumer understanding of proteins and cuts means many guests are looking for choice when it comes to dining out. “The general customer is much more informed now than 10 years ago — they expect variety,” says Sharrad. “Steak in general is an ‘expensive’ meat, so finding affordable and cheaper cuts is definitely something we always look for.”
FEATURE // Accessible steak options
September 2023 | 35
“We could have picked some crazy expensive cuts and let customers pay for it, but we didn’t want to tuck into that market.”
– Stefano Marano
Sydney’s Liquid & Larder is known for producing top-notch steaks across its venues Bistecca, The Gidley, and The Rover. But the group is now venturing down a different path with its latest concept Alfie’s. The value-for-money steakhouse opens this month and is serving up one cut of steak based on the idea of providing accessible but quality options to each and every guest.
Co-Founder and Director of Liquid & Larder James Bradey says the concept was inspired by what consumers were looking for when dining out. “I think it’s [steak] something people want to have, but they’re priced out of it with a lot of the offerings currently in the CBD market,” he says. “The full dining experience associated with steakhouses is that it’s not something you can do all the time.”
Alfie’s will hero 250g portions of sirloin (without the bone). The venue is also prioritising time and looking to get steaks on the table within 15 minutes. “Getting people in to have a great steak at a good price and get out is the kind of model we’re going for,” says Bradey. “People are quite price-conscious and time poor, and we wanted to appease that market.”
The structure of the menu also plays a role
in cutting time and costs for diners. “We really took the angle of, ‘How do we enable our customers to spend less time committing to us and therefore making it more cost-effective for them at the end of their dining experience’,” says Bradey. To do this, the team designed a menu that sees diners order their own individual steak rather than dishes to share with the table. “They’re not committing to hours of time, so what they eat and drink during that period doesn’t inflate the bill.”
The cooking process also plays an important role in the value-for-money model. Supplier costs continue to rise as does labour, so having a quality raw product helps cut costs. “One of the areas that inflates the price is the duration it takes to prepare the product,” says Bradey. “If you take a great product and treat it simply, it requires less people to touch it and work on it.”
Like Sharrad, Bradey also believes consumer knowledge plays an important role in today’s varied steak offering. “I think consumers are much more savvy about what they’re ordering across the board — they like particular cuts,” he says. “There’s more media and publicity about different cuts of steak now, and rather than
36 | Hospitality FEATURE // Accessible steak options
“Getting people in to have a great steak at a good price and get out is the kind of model we’re going for.”
– James Bradey
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Steak Sandwich with Swiss Cheese and Tomato Relish
going to a restaurant and saying, ‘Can I have steak and chips’, they will order the fillet or the rib eye.”
It can be easy to look to cheaper products to increase margins, but Marano encourages chefs and operators to continue to prioritise the product. “There is only so low you can go until you start compromising on quality,” he says. “Hopefully, beef and fresh produce in general will go back down in price a little, or at least become closer to what the prices used to be.” Bradey agrees, and says you can’t compromise when it comes to ingredients: “There’s only so much treatment you can give a product to make it better. What I love about steak is that it’s very honest — you see it on the plate.”
Bradey suggests starting with a clear idea about what a venue wants to achieve when it comes to steak-centric dishes. “I would work out what you want to sell your product for, what margin you’re expecting to make off the product, and then going and finding the best,” he says.
Marano says it’s well worth looking beyond the usual cuts seen on menus. “It would be nice to see people being more adventurous and open to some of the lesser-known ‘poor cuts’,” he says. “Some of those cuts have so much flavour, you just need to scratch beneath the surface a little.”
The chef lists skirt, bavette, and hanger as cuts to look to when it comes to cost-effective options. “They are generally quite wellpriced, juicy, and super tasty if cooked correctly,” he says. “Some come with a little wastage in the prepping process, but that’s where butchering skills come in!”
As more diners increase their knowledge around food and expectations for varying price points rise, steak is following suit. ■
38 | Hospitality FEATURE // Accessible steak options
Alfie’s opts for sirloin for its integrity and cooking time Skirt, bavette, and hanger are the more affordable steak options Fugazzi serves four steak dishes including a 1kg Bistecca Alfie’s aims to get steaks on the table within 15 minutes of ordering
www.nestleprofessional.com.au/gravy-every-occasion
Dollar dazzlers
Venues are rising to the challenge and bringing in guests who are cutting back on dining out.
WORDS Annabelle Cloros
PHOTOGRAPHY Dominic Loneragan for The Gidley
THE COST-OF-LIVING CRISIS is being felt across the country and many businesses are no longer doing the numbers they used to. From high wages to rising supplier costs, venues are feeling the pinch just as much as guests are when it comes to the pocket — but amidst economic pressure lies an opportunity to bring a little light to a heavy situation.
Different styles of venues are launching tailored offerings for less that don’t waiver on quality or experience. Hospitality speaks to Liquid & Larder’s James Bradey, Frenchies Bistro & Brewery’s Thomas Cauquil, and Dear Sainte Eloise’s Felix Auzou about everything from pasta nights to $2 oysters and premium wines by the glass.
Dear Sainte Eloise has been a fixture in Sydney’s Potts Point since 2017, with the Llankelly Place wine bar open seven days a week. It’s not the type of place you’d expect to see a bang-for-your-buck plate, but it’s a sign of the times — one where community comes first.
The 40-ish seater sells steak frites for $26 each Monday, with the special receiving a warm reception from patrons. “People really rally around having something like steak frites that’s cheaper than the pub on a Monday,” says Restaurant Manager Felix Auzou. “Mondays are also usually a strong day for us as a lot of the places in the neighbourhood aren’t open. We roster three people on and we’re all running around and it’s bustling — it’s a nice vibe.”
The initiative is the first of its kind for the venue, which hasn’t run a pocketfriendly promotion before. The decision has paid off, and Dear Sainte Eloise has since welcomed different demographics who may not have dined at the eatery
40 | Hospitality FEATURE // Cost of living
otherwise, be it related to cost, distance, or menu format. “We have had people come from across the bridge and travel relatively far for it, and there’s a lot of singles around us, too, so we saw a big uptick in solo diners coming in — we would do around 10 single sittings, which is something I hadn’t noticed before.”
There’s been a 50/50 split of diners who specifically come to the venue on Mondays for steak frites and others who add it on to their order. “Some people are looking for a good deal, and classic Eurocentric wine bar fare is pretty enticing,” says Auzou. “We also put on by-the-glass wine specials, so some are inclined to spend more knowing they’re saving on food.”
For just $26, there’s no doubt it’s a pinch of a dish when it comes to costing, and the venue isn’t cutting any corners when it comes to the protein. The only difference between the steak frites on the regular menu is the cut, which sees scotch switched with rump. “It’s still 200g and I don’t think ‘lesser cuts’ are inferior, they just need to be treated and cooked a little differently,” says Auzou. “It is a very tightly costed deal, and doing a larger quantity is what helps. If you are going down this route, you want to do numbers because spend per head is going to be lower.”
The special will likely stick around a little longer until the warmer weather kicks in and motivates diners to get out and about again. “I don’t think it’s something we can continue to do for a long time,” says Auzou. “We will see more people eating out during the week soon, but that’s not to say it won’t be replaced with something else. For me personally, I like having a day of the week that is customer-focused and accessible for guests, particularly the wine, which people can be priced out of.”
Liquid & Larder is behind some of Sydney’s most in-demand restaurants — think Bistecca, The Gidley, and The Rover. The eateries each sit in a different lane spanning approachable bistro fare to elevated fine dining, with patrons flocking to Bistecca for its signature steak and The Rover for seafood-centric dishes.
Co-Founder and Director James Bradey says the venues have all remained strong when it comes to numbers, which was part of the motivation behind the launch of Golden Hours — a series of promotional events that run across the three venues from 5pm until 10:30pm. “We haven’t really seen any changes in terms of the number of people through the door, the angle of the offering is to accommodate more patrons,” says Bradey. “We have had such high demand over the years, and we looked at how we could activate areas to increase the offerings so people can have more of the experience.”
Bistecca and The Gidley fall into the upper echelon when it comes to spend, which diners are aware of when they book a table. “Our venues have a perceived value to them, they’re not cheap by any stretch of the imagination,” says Bradey. “But guests understand they are getting value for money and it drives the desire to experience the venues, and that is where the offering has come from.”
There are three promotions now live that reflect the ethos of each restaurant and cater to what consumers want or have requested in the past. Take the steak sandwich at Bistecca — long awaited by patrons who have wanted to eat a steak at the bar — or the $2 oysters at The Rover, an accessible order for the prized seafood, which now has a going rate of $6-9 per oyster.
The Rover kicks off the Golden Hours program at 5pm with $10 mini martinis and $2 oysters which are available until 6pm Tuesday to Saturday. Is it possible to make money on a $2 oyster? Not in 2023, and that wasn’t the point. “It’s not a cost-effective exercise, it’s about promotion, getting more business their way, and getting people to enjoy a great product,” says Bradey. “Our oysters are phenomenal, but it will cost a lot of money if someone orders a dozen.”
The venue has a partnership with Appellation Oysters, a supplier known for sourcing premium Rock oysters from estuaries in New South Wales. Farmers have been through immense struggles in recent years due to environmental disasters, and estuaries are still feeling the effects of dealing with contaminated waters, which means supply has been affected, as has price.
“Five or six years ago, people would order a dozen oysters and Champagne before they looked at the menu, but that doesn’t happen so much anymore with the cost of living and the cost of the product,” says Bradey. “We wanted to entice people to come in before the venue gets too busy.”
Bistecca has the next time slot of 6–8pm Monday to Saturday with the debut steak sandwich priced at $20. There are only 20 available each night, with the sandwich teamed with Tuscan white bean paste, pickled onion, and spicy salsa verde on a potato bun. “We have found a way to accommodate bar guests by using a slightly different cut and using it on a steak sandwich,” says Bradey. “We only have so much space on the grill to cook the product, so we’re using a smaller cut of meat that cooks quicker. It’s also the downtime in the bar because the dining room is full.”
The sandwich is far from what you’d find at the pub, and was carefully thought out by the team. “The beans add moisture to the sandwich and the salsa verde livens it up,” says Bradey. “Most steak sandwiches taste like a leather shoe on stale bread, so we
FEATURE // Cost of living
September 2023 | 41
“It’s not a cost-effective exercise, it’s about promotion, getting more business their way, and getting people to enjoy a great product.”
– James Bradey
wanted to make sure it didn’t bring those memories back.”
The bar is also serving discounted drinks in line with its aperitivo angle. Aperol and Negroni spritzes are $15 a pop, Amaro highballs $10, and bottles of the King of Sangiovese discounted by 30 per cent during the two-hour window.
The Gidley has the final spot on the roster from 8–10:30pm with the steakhouse taking a high/low approach to its offering. The kitchen has created a double beef American-style burger for $20, and while the venue already has a burger on the menu, it was more about the Champagne pairing, with bottles discounted by 30 per cent. “The Gidley is all about opulence and this is taking it to the next level,” says Bradey. “We use beef from ex-dairy cows from Copper Tree Farms with added fat and we trialled the sauce for years to make sure it was perfect … which gives the luxe-forless offering credibility.”
The reservation-less Golden Hours program will run throughout September and has been a hit with diners looking for budget-friendly food and drink in a premium setting. “I think there are more venues doing it these days,” says Bradey. “You are getting familiar products made by a highly skilled person that are taken to a different level. A lot of the venues offering luxe, more affordable offerings are taking the same ethos.”
Frenchies Bistro & Brewery in Rosebery has recently overhauled its operating hours and culinary offering to suit the changing habits of customers. The venue has been in business for the past six years and has ushered in different menus along the way, now settling on an all-day version with daily lunch and evening specials. “We have had to adapt multiple times,” says CoFounder and Head Chef Thomas Cauquil. “We ran degustation menus during the Covid-19 years when people didn’t have cashflow issues, but now we have to offer something people can afford.”
The venue’s all-day menu features dishes such as a prawn and lobster roll and chestnut ravioli, and has ultimately resulted in an additional day of trade that has opened up the venue to diners who are looking to eat outside of typical service times. “It’s allowed us to reach different customers and is a more casual offering,” says Cauquil. “We are open one more day, which means three extra services with the same staff. I have put their wages up and the additional opening hours help us find the extra income to
allow us to keep the business going. The menu has been quite popular and there’s not one dish that stands out more than the others. It’s important for people to have something that is good quality at an affordable price point.”
The weekly offerings span a cheeseburger with fries and a beer for $26 to a plate of pasta with beer or wine for $25. “The idea for the weeknights was to come up with something simpler in terms of menu so people can relate to what we’re offering,” says Cauquil. “We wanted to try something more affordable and reach out to locals, too. The dinner crowd has dropped in the past few months, so that’s what we have been doing to counter the slowdown in evening bookings.”
Wednesday pasta evenings and Thursday steaks have been a success so far, with the kitchen team changing the offering each week. “It can be relatively cheap because we make the pasta in-house, we have strong relationships with our suppliers, and we try to have different cuts of steak,” says Cauquil. “They both are at reasonable price points, which gets people coming back. Those two nights have become our busiest and have become quite big. People like those kinds of dishes and there are a few places that are doing something similar. It pushes venues to come up with options that are good quality but costeffective. I think putting prices up is a short-sighted solution. You can’t think customers will always follow — at some stage, the money they spend on going out is going to shrink and they won’t be able to dine out anymore.” ■
42 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Cost of living
brews in-house Appellation Oysters are priced at $2 at The
Dear Sainte Eloise has a special by-the-glass offering on Monday
Frenchies
Rover
The
Gidley’s
burger
is
made with beef from ex-dairy cows
“I think putting prices up is a short-sighted solution. You can’t think customers will always follow.” – Thomas Cauquil
FEATURE
Fine Food Australia
Everything you can’t miss at the upcoming hospitality trade event in Sydney.
THE ANNUAL TRADE event Fine Food Australia is returning to Sydney this month with a jam-packed program featuring leading industry figures and brands. Held at Sydney’s ICC from 11–14 September, the event will see more than 100 speakers take to four stages alongside 850 local and international exhibitors across two levels. 2023 marks the 39th year for Fine Food, and is a must-attend event for those working across the hospitality industry, providing the opportunity for trade to discover the latest products, trends, and equipment.
Some of the speakers set to hit the stage include Adam Moore of Culinary Revolutions who will cover everything you need to know about creating a food brand. Tony Green from the Australian Foodservice Advocacy Body will discuss the future of foodservice and the 2022 World Food Championship’s best seafood chef John McFadden of Squizify will share his career story.
Other highlights include the unveiling of Milklab’s new experience — Milklab Lane — which is a collaboration with baristas for the Made With. Made For. Baristas campaign. The Talking Tech series sponsored by Square is also not to be missed, and will see panels discuss the growing role of technology in the industry. Guests will be treated to live cooking demonstrations from the country’s top pastry chefs at the Mayers Innovation in Patisserie Stage.
Fine Food Australia will also provide attendees with the chance to connect with exhibitors showcasing the top brands and products across hospitality, catering, bakery, retail, import, export, distribution, manufacturing, and more.
Registration to attend Fine Food Australia is free for all members of the food industry. Secure your spot at finefoodaustralia.com.au
Zeller
Zeller is the one solution for all your business finances. From zero-cost EFTPOS to business accounts, debit cards, and online invoicing — it’s everything you’d expect from a business bank but better. Australian owned and operated, Zeller supports more than 35,000 businesses with a more affordable EFTPOS solution. Venues across the country include The Grumpy Baker, Lucas Restaurants, The Australian Heritage Hotel, The Glenmore Hotel, The Arthouse Hotel, Domino’s Pizza, and The Roosevelt. With integrations with over 600 point-of-sale platforms and Xero, Zeller has quickly become Australia’s fastest-growing EFTPOS solution to support the hospitality sector. Visit Zeller at stall J27 to speak one-on-one with the team, learn more about its range of financial products, and discover how switching your EFTPOS to Zeller can help your business save more.
Trade Tasmania
Tasmania has come a long way from great apples and beer. From abalone, honey, lamb, and ice cream to award-winning whisky and spirits, Tasmania is now recognised for high-quality, premium, niche products. On an island off an island, pristine waters, crisp air, and unique flora give Tasmanians the room to create, innovate, breathe, and grow. It is this unparalleled environment that provides the perfect conditions to craft exquisite whisky and spirits.
Meet the passionate Tasmanian distillers who are inspired by their unique stories and surroundings to create a growing list of award-winning products. Experience the true deliciousness of real honey, savour abalone nurtured in cool Tasmanian waters, and sample lamb raised on lush fertile pastures. Delight in the exquisite taste of ice cream made with milk from some of the happiest cows on the planet. Meet the makers and experience what Tasmania has to offer at stands H22 and H26.
44 | Hospitality
// Fine Food Australia
Better Earth Packaging
Better Earth Packaging is a top manufacturer specialising in bamboo products. The products are crafted with bamboo fibre straw made from 100 per cent natural bamboo powder to ensure safety and eco-friendliness. Compared to plastic and paper straws, it offers a unique experience with comfort, durability, and a fresh bamboo aroma. Better Earth Packaging is committed to providing competitive prices and making eco-friendly convenience accessible to more people. All products are 100 per cent biodegradable and free from chemical additives with its pure bamboo pulp. Find the Better Earth Packaging team at stand F62 at Fine Food Australia or call the team on 0409 357 002.
Richmond Wheel & Castor Co
All the best commercial baking racks, trays, trolleys, benches, storage solutions, and more can be found under one roof with Richmond Wheel & Castor Co. Drawing on more than 60 years of custom engineering experience, the products are specifically designed for heavy-use baking environments and meet all food-grade standards. Make life easier for staff, improve ingredient handling, and ensure goods remain fresh for customers. Richmond Wheel & Castor Co’s industry experts can also customise a product to suit business needs, with fast manufacture and delivery. Experience the latest in durable, multi-purpose bakery equipment you can rely on at the Richmond Wheel & Castor Co booth at HB6 or visit richmondau.com
Who will be there?
850-plus local and international exhibitors will be part of Fine Food Australia. Here are our top picks on who to catch at the event.
Smeg
Creativity, sophistication, and technology are the hallmarks of Smeg’s Italian character as well as its constant commitment to giving a soul to everyday objects. Smeg produces professional convection ovens, combi ovens, and dishwashers that are characterised by great versatility, maximum efficiency, and low-energy consumption. Smeg professional products represent more than 40 years’ experience in the design and manufacture of commercial equipment and are entirely made in Italy. Reduced power consumption, consistent quality results, and engineered for durability all combined into Smeg’s distinctive design. Designed for excellence in the kitchen, innovating culinary tradition through the simplicity of technology. Join the Smeg team at stand HK24 and explore the full range at smegfoodservice.com/au
AJ Baker & Sons
Explore the finest range of hot food cases, refrigeration, and ice machines at stand HP2 at the lower level exhibition hall at Fine Food Australia. Preview the selection of Manitowoc ice machines including under-counter models, easy-to-use ice dispensers, and ice storage bins. For those wanting refrigerated display cases, don’t miss the Tecfrigo dry-aged meat case which ensures the preservation of meats. The cake display case and self-serve bain-marie on the stand will attract patisseries and restaurants alike.
Butchers and deli owners will have the opportunity to explore the Criocabin Enixe and the convenient Erin display case, ideal for deli products, meats, and ready-to-go meals. For cheeses or fresh berries, the Bonnet Névé line-up features the Latitude chilled island-style display case, while the Multifreeze and Multifresh offer versatility side-by-side or stand-alone. For the hot food lovers, the Curl and Offlip hot food display cases are sure to catch your attention. Don’t miss this exciting opportunity to upgrade or start your refrigeration journey. Visit the AJ Baker & Sons stand at HP2.
September 2023 | 45 Cusomization of Packaging FEATURE // Fine Food Australia
EOI Bakery
EOI Bakery have a new range of ready-to-use pastries including pastry rolls, pastry shells, Danish squares, and croissants. The ready-to-use frozen puff pastry rolls are ideal for pies, sausage rolls, and pasties and can save operators time while still delivering layers of high puff pastry with superior lift. There are also baked and unbaked vegan sweet short crust pastry shells, available in multiple convenient sizes. The EOI Bakery large Danish square is made with butter, so just add the desired filling to create your own Danish-style pastries. Try our range of ready-to-proof and bake frozen French-style croissants, escargot, and Danish fruit and custard pastries that are all made with butter under the La Parisienne brand. Come and see EOI Bakery at stand HB20 opposite The Official Great Aussie Pie Competition for more information or to sample delicious croissants.
Hormel Foods
Hormel Foods’ Bacon 1 is the new breakfast meat for Australian menus that looks, tastes, and performs the same way with every use. Naturally hardwood smoked, the bacon helps full-service and quick-service restaurants face the challenge of ensuring consistency on the plate. Guests expect the same experience every time they sit down to eat, and those preparing food can also benefit from ingredients with predictable performance.
The consistently thick slices, smoky flavour, and classic texture of Hormel Bacon 1 provides a solution for restaurants that make streaky bacon from raw. The extra time and labour can instead be shifted to creating more specialised applications with bacon such as baconwrapped jalapeños or sriracha and brown sugar candied bacon. The Hormel Foods team will be preparing Bacon 1 to taste at stand F32.
Kuvings
In the bustling world of the hospitality industry, staying ahead of the competition requires more than just quality service and excellent cuisine. The ability to cater to the diverse tastes and preferences of customers is vital. With the Kuvings Commercial Blender CB1000, businesses can harness the power of versatile blending to create delectable smoothies, smoothie bowls, dips, and more while maximising profits and customer satisfaction. Kuvings understand the importance of providing full support to its customers. Catch the Kuvings team at stand HN48 for a special price. For more information, visit kuvings.com.au/commercial or reach out to the team directly on (02) 9798 0586.
RDM Pizza
Since its inception in 2016, RDM Pizza has been building on its Italian-Australian heritage to become a market leader in authentic pizza products. From the award-winning dough to the highestquality pizza ovens, RDM Pizza has developed speciality products to satisfy gaps in the market.
They’re proud of the things that set them apart from the way they lovingly manufacture their products in Sydney to the carefully selected premium Aussie ingredients and the promise of no additives or preservatives in the dough. There’s also free training when you become a customer. RDM Pizza understands your challenges and where you can maximise profits. RDM Pizza is the collective of creative minds and big hearts.
Find RDM Pizza at stand HE44. Customers that purchase two cartons of any RDM Pizza product from September through to November will go into the draw to win a Moretti Forni Pizza oven worth $16,000.
46 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Fine Food Australia
INNOVATION
KITCHEN PERFORMANCE, EFFICIENCY, DURABILITY
for excellence in the kitchen, innovating culinary tradition through the simplicity of technology. JOIN US AT STAND HK24 1114 SEPTEMBER 2023
smegfoodservice.com/au
in THE
Designed
Simplot
Simplot is one of Australia’s leading food companies, providing its customers with a range of high-quality products with cost and time-saving solutions. Engage with the team’s chefs to gain valuable insights into the evolving food industry, explore unique product applications, and find out why Simplot’s products and brands would be right for you. Whether you’re a food professional or a small business owner, there is guaranteed to be something for you!
Visit the Simplot team at stand HE20 to explore the latest trends, pioneering techniques, and cutting-edge solutions that shape the culinary landscape.
Cookers
Cookers is Australia’s leading bulk cooking oil supplier focused on bringing efficiency and sustainability to the foodservice industry since 2000. With a customer-first approach, Cookers provide high-quality cooking oils and a complete system to streamline the entire process of oil management. From supply and delivery of fresh cooking oil to the collection and recycling of used cooking oil, businesses have one direct point of contact.
With no two businesses being the same, you have a choice of choosing different cooking oils and industrial food-grade equipment to complement the bulk oil management system. Ease the burden that comes with traditional ways of oil supply and disposal with a tailored solution to meet your business needs. Drop by stand E38 in the meat and seafood section for more information or visit cookers.com.au
Marana Forni
Born in Verona, Italy, Marana Forni’s innovative and internationally acclaimed pizza ovens made it to Australian shores back in 2013. Since then, Marana Forni has proudly become a leader in commercial pizza equipment Down Under. Marana boasts avantgarde technology and an unmatched service, with the art of pizza-making traditions and Italian design at its heart.
Marana Forni understands the current stresses facing restaurateurs and how its equipment can not only alleviate them, but help businesses thrive. The award-winning suite of products are made in Italy from high-quality materials proven to stand the test of time, while also providing operational cost reductions in labour, time, and energy consumption. Visit Marana Forni at stand HK20 to see the full range of Australia’s products.
Melitta Professional
Building on more than a century of tradition and a passion for outstanding coffee, Melitta Professional is a leader in cuttingedge coffee machines. Melitta Professional prides itself on an impressive product range paired with exceptional service tailored to the needs of the hospitality industry. Whether you’re a restaurant, hotel, café, bakery, convenience store, or even a catering business, Melitta Professional has a product to suit. From finance services to ongoing maintenance and training, Melitta Professional’s services are designed to ensure peak performance and customer satisfaction.Visit the Melitta Professional team for an unforgettable coffee journey with high-quality service. Come and experience the Melitta difference at stand C22.
48 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Fine Food Australia
2023 floorplan
50 | Hospitality
FEATURE // Fine Food Australia
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Features an eye to allow for twine to truss proteins
Trussing needle
Keep proteins in place while tying and stuffing.
Most models are made from stainless steel
Typically 20cm in length with a 3mm diameter
Helps proteins keep their shape when cooking
Often used with chicken, turkey, duck, and other poultry
Assists in manipulating and handling proteins
Can also be used with other proteins and rolled meats
Opens poultry to ensure even cooking
52 | Hospitality EQUIPMENT // Trussing needle
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Mark Olive
WATCHING MY MUM, godmother, and aunts cook sparked the flame that was to become my passion. Sitting and watching them mix ingredients together, blend them, and put them in an oven to become a cake was magic to me. But best of all, we got to eat it afterwards!
There have been many career highlights for me. Getting my apprenticeship was one of them and it has taken me to a lot of places. Falling into a TV career during and after studying for a diploma in theatre at Swinburne University of Technology was also a highlight. It saw me accepted into the Victorian College of the Arts film school and led me to writing my TV series Outback Café. Another highlight was a collaboration with Tourism Australia to host G’Day Canada across 2007 and 2008 to represent Australian Aboriginal culture through food around the world. Hosting Oprah’s guests on her Australian tour in 2010 was also a standout moment. I’ve been fortunate to have some amazing highlights in my lifetime.
Native ingredients have been a
constant in my life. When I finished my apprenticeship, I was able to look outside the box and combine native flavours with everyday recipes. After years of research and meeting communities and elders from around the country, it made me wonder how much more was possible in developing new flavours and introducing them to the wider community. I fell in love with our unique produce.
The staples of lemon myrtle and wattle seed have become extremely popular and can be easily introduced into most dishes. Currently, our native fruits are making their mark. Fruits such as quandong, riberry, lilly pilly, and lemon aspen are some of my favourites. Their versatility lends themselves to both sweet and savoury dishes and the best way for chefs to introduce them into their recipes is through muffins, sauces, and cakes.
A collaboration with Doltone Hospitality Group, my management MissusM Creative, and my own drive and persistence led to the opening of Midden by Mark Olive this year. Truly, I’m still pinching
myself to have been gifted an indigenous restaurant in such an iconic structure on Tubergule which is the traditional Gadigal name for Bennelong Point. Midden is in the epicentre of an iconic engineering masterpiece, and it still makes me giddy to be part of such a historic moment in our time. I hope we are a place for visitors from around the world and across the country who want to visit a unique restaurant in an ideal location which captures their tastebuds and soul while dining within a visual postcard.
Experimental, adventurous, and unique are words that have been thrown out by patrons who have dined at Midden so far. They have given us great feedback. Some of our signature dishes include wallaby shanks, the indigenous tasting plates, our barramundi, and a roasted wattle seed pavlova I’ve been doing for decades — it’s always a winner!
The rest of the year is full of special events at Midden, food shows, and more visits to communities, schools, festivals, and finishing my new book. ■
54 | Hospitality 5 MINUTES WITH ... // Mark Olive
The celebrated Indigenous Australian chef on the opening of his restaurant Midden at the Sydney Opera House.
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Frequently filtering oil will extend its life, providing customers with a consistently better tasting fried product, every day.
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