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12 Editor’s Letter 14 Beauty Bites
19 The PB Archives
22 Cover Story: Pure Fiji
26 Main Stage: Cosmoprof Asia 2024
28 In Salon
30 Investigation: Manufacturing
EDUCATION
Lash Education
BUSINESS 38 Salon Expansion 42 Re-Formulating 46 Employee Wellness
BEAUTY
48 Shop the Shoot: Neutral Packaging
50 The Teen Skincare Boom
52 Golki Fusion Facial
54 Hiring a Dermal Therapist
56 Laser Regulations
58 Hot Products: Hair Removal
62 Sun-Kissed Brows
66 Waxing: Skin Lifts
67 Shop the Shoot: Red Makeup
68 Working with Influencers
69 How to: Lip Blush
70 The Tanning Frontiers
72 New Look ProfessioNail
74 The M Word
76 The Head Spa
78 Escape to... Seoul
80 End Note: Karen Meiring de Gonzalez
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EDIT O R’S LETTER
In preparing PB’s first issue for 2025, I spent a lot of time (rather ironically) reading the very first issues of our beloved industry publication dating as far back as the mid-1990s. Once known as The Professional Beauty Guide - among other namesthen Publisher Kirien Withers noted “two things in common” of the salons her team visited in 1998: one being teams’ attitudes to their businesses, service, and clients; their “absolute commitment to providing the ultimate in personal care and client service”. And the second being the “quality of the environment, the ambience created, and the attention to detail”. How little things have changed.
She went on to list a series of unique and highly personalised offerings made available in Australian salons at that time, from valet parking and late opening hours, to crèches and servings of champagne. Some strategies have remained popular through to today, like electric blankets on beauty beds, silent beauty rooms, and the post-treatment application of makeup containing sun protection. It was a time when the day spa was considered a new concept, and talks of how to implement exciting new technologies like wet rooms into spaces ran hot.
This year, Professional Beauty Australia celebrates its 30th year of publication. With that, we debut The Professional Beauty Archives, set to unpack four intervals of the industry calendar across four issues. We look back on how far we’ve come, kicking
EDITOR’S PICKS
Cute packaging aside, the stunning shade produced by this Camino Rose Ultimate Tanning Mouse has been my summer go-to. Camino Rose 0466 889 478.
SIMKA’s Lip Therapy SPF 15 doesn’t carry a ‘chemical’ taste, and is a winner in my book. Derma Aesthetics 1300 420 223.
off from page 19. Where the industry has changed in spades, those working behind the scenes to create the very products therapists recommend have often been granted a first look. From page 30, I write of my time spent with an iconic Australian beauty manufacturer to gauge what the past, present and future of product creation looks like down-under.
Speaking of the past, I’m thrilled to feature a series of Beauty Industry Visionaries this issue, who reflect on the growth of their brands throughout the years. Look out for the hot pink Visionary tabs throughout. We hero the esteemed Pure Fiji - a brand that’s been ‘bottling summer’ for the pleasure of therapists and clients alike since 1996. Read their story from page 22. We speak to TADLI, who unpacks present-day laser usage laws across Australian states from page 58. We detail the latest treatment offerings, from sun-kissed brows to the viral head spa. And look ahead at what’s to come in Australian tanning, K-beauty inspired treatments, and lash education. Enjoy the issue!
Hannah Gay, Editor-in-Chief
I adore Lust Minerals’ Mineral Pressed Powder Foundation as it doesn’t cake or clump throughout the day. Lust Minerals www.lustminerals.com.au.
Photography: Joseph G Media/Supplied
B E AUTY BIT E S
PB’s eye to the ground on the Australian beauty industry.
1.
Pinterest predicts 2025 beauty trends
According to social media platform, Pinterest, global searches for three beauty trends are on the rise coming into 2025: Dark Siren Makeup: + 695%, Cherry Vibe (Makeup): +325%, and Goddess Nails: +760%.
2.
Elemis achieves B corp certification
Sustainable skincare brand Elemis has strengthened its commitment to both skin health and environmental responsibility. The brand’s transition to 100% renewable energy, recyclable jars, and sustainably sourced packaging helped secure the brand an impressive B Corp score of 93.
3.
SynTernals expands supplement range with AlgOmega-3
SynTernals’ second supplement has launched, designed to enhance overall vitality and healthspan from within.
AlgOmega-3 supports cognitive, cardiovascular and eye health without the fishy aftertaste or risk of contaminants like mercury and lead found in other fish oil supplements.
Words:
4.
Kaine Vakai fronts Lavilash Lash Cleanser launch
The popular hair artist and influencer has lent his face to Lavilash’s latest campaign, promoting a new-to-market foaming lash cleanser. The product, which is sustainably manufactured in Australia under Lavilash founder, Jade Penson, was produced with lash artists and their clients at the forefront.
5.
Secure your tickets to the 2025 Naturally Good Expo
Naturally Good will return in 2025 as the country’s preeminent beauty and wellness business event. Descending on Sydney’s ICC from May 26 — 27 2025, the event will offer natural brands a unique chance to spotlight their products and services direct to retail buyers.
6.
TRONQUE unveils luxe, earth-loving deodorant
Salon-stocked wellness brand
TRONQUE has fashioned a high-end yet eco-conscious, refillable roll-on deodorant.
AXILLA ORB cleverly features a ‘deo-tox’ mimicking ingredient that inhibits acetylcholine (muscle neurotransmitter) release, reducing nerve signals controlling sweat gland activity.
7.
SOTHYS graces industry with Glow Defense
SOTHYS has announced the launch of the DX Glow programme and coinciding professional treatment. The six-phase treatment features the brand’s signature Digi-Esthetique massage; home care products include a serum and cream. The programme is designed to aid skin against environmental aggressors and biological toxins.
Katrina Webb prefers Zhav International Did you know former Australian paralympian Katrina Webb OAM is an avid Zhav International fan? The athlete, who vouches for the company’s focus on ‘skin fitness’, has undergone treatments with Zhav for close to a decade. Most notably, Katrina regularly experiences skin tightening using the Dynamic Lift + Moisture™, and skin protocols using the YZ Skincare line.
9.
mesoestetic’s latest depigmenting solutions have arrived
At the forefront of innovation in depigmentation is mesoestetic. The brand recently unveiled two SKUS under melan tran3x - a concentrate, and gel cream. The programme heroes tranexamic acid to ease dark spots and even skin tone.
10.
Saint Minerals releases eyeshadow range
The locally owned makeup brand has entered the eyeshadow arena, releasing a 31-strong shade range. Each shadow is infused with Australian Jojoba Esters and Vitamin E, designed to hydrate and soften the skin while ensuring comfort and a lightweight feel.
✓ Australian cosmeceutical range
✓ Results driven skincare
✓ Select 7 Skin Peel System
✓ Great price point and markup
✓ Annual marketing planner in place with regular promotional activity
✓ UltraRewards - Client Loyalty Program
✓ Staff skincare rewards
✓ Flexible opening orders
✓ Regular salon training
✓ Easy to use and recommend for retail
Introducing…
THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ARCHIVES
A look back at three decades of the Australian professional beauty industry.
A FOREWORD BY JEFFREY DALEY: REFLECTIONS ON OUR HISTORY
“Thinking back to the 1970s and before, Ella Bache was the only professional beauty brand that I can remember. In 1978, Clarins came here, and between ‘78 and ‘82 is what I would call ‘the big bang’ [of beauty]. Following the migration of Eastern and some Western Europeans, women started training pupils and some had opened schools; there was a groundswell of beauty therapists opening businesses here. So, from the mid-1980s through to today - around 45 years - that’s how long the modern beauty industry has existed in Australia. [In the 1990s, the Australian professional beauty industry] was a small world, but a buoyant world. It was quite dynamic and there were never enough suppliers to satisfy the demand. As recently as the 2000s, I saw a boom in the number of beauty salons open.
The idea of the spa didn’t exist here until the early 2000s. In fact, [former PB Publisher] Kirien Withers shaped it here, and it became an industry in itself. But spas were an absolute failure in this country. [Therapists] worked off the American and European model, but Australian women just aren’t into body work as such - they want massage. There were some clever operators who may have survived, but there were a lot that didn’t. Spas today are quite different to what they used to bethey’re now beauty therapy spas, not body spas.
The basis of the whole beauty industry surviving is still in the beauty therapist working and doing what she/he does, which incorporates some machinery, but still traditional techniques. Once upon a time, it was the suppliers who provided the practical training. These days, salon owners have problems trying to get competent staff; it’s like we’ve gone full circle, back to the beginning. I’d say less than 10% of all students that train go on to become beauty therapists. And yet, for the industry to survive 45 years, it says we have a good backbone.
[During the 2008 recession], the industry boomed… it killed the spa market, but beauty therapy stayed because they had the connection with people. In 2011, however, when the AUD hit parity with the USD, there was a movement toward buying from overseas. It was the beginning of the internet, and technology began to catch up with beauty therapy. But, when you have a good beauty business built up, people will keep coming to you. There’s not many outlets for women to go to where they can enjoy a cocoon sense of privacy; that’s what’s sustained beauty therapy over the years. When people have human contact with people, and the therapist is hands-on, there’s nurturing and there’s care… that’s what binds beauty therapy to good clients and creates loyalty.”
1995
● The first rendition of Professional Beauty Australia launches as Beauty Trade Guide, an annual local buyer’s guide.
● NASA takes their first red light therapy devices to space to support tissue repair in astronauts, laying the foundation for light therapy applications in skin.
● Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) opens, growing to become one of Australia’s largest distributors of professional beauty products across skincare, technology, tanning, spa, makeup, and more.
● Suzette Cassie introduces Dermalogica to Australia, revolutionising skincare, in both the B2B and B2C market, with a focus on professional-grade formulations.
● Ex-Import Niche Products (aka Elleebana) launches, growing to elevate the lash and brow markets.
● The pedicure comes to don a new nickname: the pedi.
1996
● The Australian Government introduces the Workplace Relations Act, standardising fair wages, conditions, and dispute resolution mechanisms.
● The late Michelle Doherty, founder of Alpha-H, popularises glycolic acid in skincare.
● OmniDerm launches as the exclusive distributor of Dr. Spiller Biomimetic Skincare.
● Razor-thin eyebrows are coming in hot, holding court well into the 2000s.
1997
● Professional Beauty Australia launches its first editorial print magazine, featuring SOTHYS Paris on the cover.
● TAFE institutes across Australia begin offering specialised Beauty Therapy courses, professionalising beauty as a career path.
● The Alexandrite Laser gains FDA approval for hair removal, marking a global revolution in hair removal with its effectiveness on lighter skin tones and becoming a mainstay in clinics.
● The Australian Institute of Laser Therapy (AILT) opens under the direction of Tina Czech.
● Environ launches the Gold Roll-CIT®, the first cosmetic roller for at-home collagen stimulation and product penetration.
● Disposable panties for use during salon treatments become mainstay in Australia and New Zealand.
1998
● PB reports women opening small businesses in Australia at 2.6 times the rate of men, predicting that women would make up half of all small business owners by the year 2000.
● Microdermabrasion gains momentum as the latest skin renewal offering.
● Known as “the product that started it all,” Ultraceuticals debuts its Ultra C Firming Serum, based on founder Dr Geoffrey Heber’s acclaimed work on stabilising and delivering Vitamin C.
● Liquefied metals, sparkles, and colours varying from pastels to jelly bean tints are all the rage on the nails.
1999
● Restylane, the first hyaluronic acid-based dermal filler, is registered for use in Australia, introducing a safer method for facial volume enhancement.
● Queensland enacted the Radiation Safety Act, setting strict guidelines for Class 4 laser use in hair removal, skin rejuvenation, and tattoo removal.
● Victoria University launches the country’s first degree program for beauty therapists: The Bachelor of Health Science - Advanced Dermal Therapies.
● Founded by Dr Philippa McCaffery in 1999, Clear Skincare Clinics focuses on accessible, clinically-backed skincare treatments across 80+ locations.
● Introducing enzyme therapy and paramedical skin treatments, DMK’s arrival transforms Australia’s skincare industry with its unique focus on restoring skin health from within.
● Cosmedix introduces chirally correct skincare to Australia, a concept in which ingredients are refined to use only the most effective molecular structure, enhancing absorption and reducing irritation – a breakthrough approach for sensitive and results-driven skincare.
● MAC launches down-under, exclusive to Grace Bros (now Myer) and “upmarket beauty salons”.
2000
● The Australian government introduces the Goods and Services Tax (GST), impacting salon services, product pricing, and industry business operations.
● Melanie Gleeson establishes Australia’s largest day spa network, endota spa, revolutionising the accessibility and popularity of spa treatments.
● The International Dermal Institute (IDI) opens an additional location in Melbourne, following its Sydney opening in 1994.
GRAB A COPY OF PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY’S NEXT ISSUE FOR A LOOK BACK AT THE INDUSTRY FROM 2003 TO 2010, IN SALONS AND ONLINE APRIL 2025.
2001
● Wage standards evolve under the Fair Work Act, leading to better pay and conditions for beauty professionals.
● Small businesses, including beauty salons, adapt pricing and operations to meet adjusted GST requirements, reshaping financial management in the industry.
2002
● Australia launches a nationally recognised beauty therapy training framework, standardising education and enhancing professionalism.
● The Government introduces the Small Business Assistance Program to aid beauty and other small businesses in navigating new tax and compliance changes.
● The Australian Society of Dermal Clinicians (ASDC) is established, supporting advanced skincare practice and professional standards.
● Botulinum toxin type A (Botox) is approved for cosmetic use in Australia, revolutionising the anti-ageing sector and becoming one of the most popular nonsurgical treatments.
● Popular mineral makeup brand, jane iredale arrives in Australia, partnering exclusively with beauty salons.
● Developed by renowned plastic surgeon and cosmetologist Aubrey Parsons, Nimue Skin Technology arrives in Australia.
● Jan Marini launches C-Esta - a topical vitamin C cream with a neutral PH - after 12 years of research.
● International Beauty Expo (now Beauty Expo), held in Sydney, celebrates 10 years as the industry’s premier event.
TICKET TO PARADISE WITH Pure Fiji
Hannah Gay unpacks the brand transporting clients to the heart of the South Pacific.
When thinking of the name Pure Fiji, the first thought that springs to mind is usually one of scent. Delivering a rich portfolio of enduring fragrances, the skincare and wellness brand is synonymous with summer, travel, fun, and relaxation. But there’s more to the brand than meets the eye (or the nose). In fact, Pure Fiji isn’t solely a brand, but a cosmetic manufacturer with a distinct production process intrinsically linked to its Fijian origins.
“When my mother, Gaëtane and I first set out to create Pure Fiji, our goal was simple yet deeply rooted in tradition: to share the natural beauty secrets of the South Pacific with the world,” Pure Fiji Director, Andrée Austin tells Professional Beauty. “We wanted to create products that celebrated Fiji’s rich biodiversity and cultural heritage while empowering our local communities. It was about bottling the essence of paradise—its natural ingredients, soothing rituals, and a sense of wellbeing—and making it available to everyone in our markets.”
Pure Fiji was brought to life in 1996 and today - nearly 30 years on from its inception - plays host to dozens of products and professional protocols destined to delight. Its mission? “Not to be the best in the world, but to be the best for the world” - a nod to its founders’ passion for people and the planet. “This mission reflects our commitment to creating a brand that benefits everyone it touches— from the land and the people who provide our ingredients, to the customers who use our
“WE STRIVE TO LEAVE A POSITIVE IMPACT BY USING RENEWABLE RESOURCES, CREATING EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES, AND SUPPORTING COMMUNITY INITIATIVES, ALL WHILE OFFERING PRODUCTS THAT ENHANCE THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF OUR CUSTOMERS.”
products,” Andrée explains. “For us, it’s about sustainability, empowerment, and giving back. We strive to leave a positive impact by using renewable resources, creating employment opportunities, and supporting community initiatives, all while offering products that enhance the natural beauty of our customers. Being ‘the best for the world’ means staying true to our values and making choices that benefit not just our business, but the planet and its people.”
She describes the Fijian people and their way of life, “known for their warmth, generosity, and sense of community.” Life in Fiji is guided by a concept called
vanua, Andrée explains, which encompasses the land, the sea, and the people. “It’s a deeply spiritual connection that fosters respect for nature and each other. The Fijian way of life is slow-paced and filled with joy, music, and celebration. It’s about finding balance, appreciating the present, and living in harmony with the environment.”
Andrée’s unique commitment to her community is evident from the source. Pure Fjii creates jobs for locals who assist with various processes, from securing raw materials, to fashioning handmade paper to package soaps with, providing business training to women along the way.
From the outset, Pure Fiji is one of the very few cosmetic manufacturers in the world that truly operates using natural resources across the whole business, from ingredient sourcing to energy generation. Setting up its factory was “an exercise in aligning our operations with our values,” Andrée says. “From the beginning, we focused on sustainability, incorporating solar energy, composting systems, roof turbines and growing ivy on the walls to keep the buildings cool. We also built strong partnerships with local farmers to source wild-harvested, cold-pressed seed oils and other natural ingredients.” On a micro level, this approach ensures that we support local communities, provide fair wages, and maintain a low carbon footprint. On a macro level, it demonstrates that a beauty business can thrive without compromising the planet’s resources. By operating this way, we inspire others to embrace more sustainable practices and prove that environmental stewardship and success can go hand-in-hand.”
The pay-off is a full line of skincare, body care and wellness products utilising an ancient blend of powerful plant actives and exotic seed oils designed to generate powerful dermatological results. Luxurious cocktails containing the likes of moringa oil, macadamia oil, kakadu, lime caviar, papaya extract and famously, coconut oil, are just a handful of plantderived ingredients topping Pure Fiji ingredient lists. The likes of niacinamide, sodium hylauronate, glycolic and mandelic acid showcase the brand’s attention to efficacious actives.
“EACH PROTOCOL IS DESIGNED TO CELEBRATE THE POWER OF TOUCH, THE PURITY OF OUR INGREDIENTS, AND THE RESTORATIVE BEAUTY OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC.”
gentle grit of its sugar scrubs - compliment Pure Fiji’s sensorily-driven rituals; “luxurious and transformative”. “What truly sets us apart is our commitment to crafting products that not only feel indulgent but also deliver visible results.”
Pure Fiji is stocked in many luxurious spas and salons worldwide, thanks to a growth strategy rooted in “authenticity, strong relationships, and a commitment to quality,” Andrée says. “We work closely with our spa and salon partners, offering training programs that ensure therapists truly understand our products and protocols. In addition, we’ve invested in branding and storytelling to convey the essence of Fiji—its beauty, culture, and sustainability. Participation in international wellness events and awards has helped us build credibility and reach global audiences, while staying true to our roots has kept our loyal customers coming back.”
A focus on wellness has long run through the veins of the Pure Fiji brand. It makes sense that Pure Fiji naturally falls in favour with businesses dotted in popular vacation spots. However, consumer lean into wellness-centric services in 2025 makes Pure Fiji a key player in the shift in salon service offerings. “For our partners, we aim to provide a suite of products and rituals that are both effective and easy to use. We invest in comprehensive training to ensure therapists feel confident and empowered to offer exceptional experiences. For clients, our goal is to create moments of escape, renewal, and transformation—both for their skin and their sense of wellbeing. Each protocol is designed to celebrate the power of touch, the purity of our ingredients, and the restorative beauty of the South Pacific.”
In 2024, Pure Fiji underwent a rebrand after several years in the making. The process involved “extensive research, customer feedback, and team collaboration,” Andrée explains. A fresh chapter for Pure Fiji, the rebrand stays true to its heritage while embracing modernity. “The sleek, minimal designs reflect our commitment to timeless beauty, and the upgraded formulas ensure we continue to deliver cutting-edge skincare.” The brand’s logo reveals a slimline, elegant look, product packaging revised for a more user-friendly experience, and formulas upgraded - especially those in the Hydration Collection - to incorporate advanced moisturising agents. To Andrée, “this rebrand signals our intention to grow globally while remaining rooted in the values and traditions that have defined us for over 25 years.”
Pure Fiji’s body care range stands out to professionals and consumers alike for its vitamin, fatty acid, and antioxidant-rich solutions. “The range embodies the richness of Fiji’s natural bounty,” Andrée describes. “We use cold-pressed seed oils like dilo, coconut, macadamia, and sikeci. These ingredients nourish the skin deeply and support its natural repair mechanisms.” Talking scents, Andrée says products are inspired by the tropics, “offering a sensory escape with notes of coconut, frangipani, and exotic fruits” that are hard to resist. Product textures - whether in the form of the brand’s velvety body butters or in the
Professional Beauty Solutions: the Australian home of Pure Fiji
In 2017, Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) took over the distribution of Pure Fjij in Australia. The brand has, however, been available in the Australian market since 2009. PBS has worked to elevate the brand and expand its presence in salons, clinics and spas here ever since. We caught up with PBS General Manager, Jaime Nelson, who shared details on what a partnership with Pure Fiji and PBS can look like for businesses.
What makes PBS a suitable distributor for Pure Fiji?
“At PBS, we’re passionate about sourcing the very best for our clients, and Pure Fiji is a natural fit for our mission. Their exceptional products don’t just deliver results—they inspire loyalty, elevate treatments, and create a sensory journey toward glowing, healthy skin.
Pure Fiji empowers spas, salons, and clinics to enhance the experiences they provide, making every treatment truly transformative. Their body care and skincare ranges are a testament to the brand’s dedication to improving skin health, one luxurious product at a time.
At PBS, we believe in enriching lives through the power of skin health. By nurturing strong, holistic partnerships, we help our partners unlock new opportunities and achieve remarkable growth. Together with Pure Fiji, we’re elevating beauty and wellness to new heights.”
Describe Pure Fiji’s presence in Australia
“For decades, Pure Fiji has captured the hearts of Australians—long before it was readily available on our shores. Every year, countless Aussies return from Fiji carrying not just glowing skin but also cherished memories of tropical bliss. Now, for over 15 years, Pure Fiji has become a beloved staple in Australian spas, salons, and clinics, as well as in homes. Travelers who first fall in love with Pure Fiji abroad are drawn to its unique ability to recreate the luxury and serenity of their Fijian escapes. Every application of Pure Fiji products is more than skincare—it’s a journey; a moment to relive the joy of relaxation, the warmth of tropical sun, and the beauty of supple, radiant skin. It’s a way to bring those unforgettable experiences back home, one luxurious drop at a time.”
What stands out about the Pure Fiji body care range compared to competitor ranges made available to professionals in Australia?
“Pure Fiji’s ingredients are at the heart of what makes the brand so extraordinary. Guided by a commitment to be not just the best in the world but the best for the world, Pure Fiji champions natural, minimally processed ingredients. Sourced from Fiji’s lush tropical isles, their ‘seed to skin’ philosophy ensures organic oils are cold-pressed at the source using unique methods developed by the brand. Pure Fiji’s diverse range of infusions sets them apart, offering a scent for every preference—each one an invitation to fall in love. With every product, Pure Fiji delivers more than skincare; it creates a tropical sensory escape, transporting you to paradise with every touch.”
What does PBS look for in a potential stockist of Pure Fiji?
“PBS partners with spas, salons, and clinics that share our passion for bringing the essence of paradise to their clients. We collaborate with stockists who prioritise both the emotional and physical well-being of their clients, keen to transform the skin with natural ingredients and premium products that embody the beauty and lifestyle of the South Pacific.”
Talk us through what being a Pure Fiji stockist looks like, including the onboarding process, training offered, and ongoing support.
“The PBS onboarding process is one of the most thorough and supportive in the industry. We provide in-depth brand training to equip our partners with the knowledge and tools needed for success. Our expert Business Development Managers work closely with you to write bespoke treatment menus, optimise your website, and design a launch strategy that elevates your business. With free monthly marketing materials, promotions to keep the brand fresh, and access to a dedicated training portal and team, we ensure you’re supported every step of the way. At PBS, we are deeply committed to enriching the lives of our salon partners and driving their success.”
What is the minimum opening order with Pure Fiji?
“At PBS, we understand that every business is unique, which is why we take a tailored approach with every account. It’s not about selling more—it’s about providing exactly what you need to succeed. Reach out to our team today and let’s create the perfect solution for your business.”
For businesses interested in partnering with PBS for Pure Fiji, what steps should they take?
“Contact the PBS team today by phone or emailwe’re here to discuss how Pure Fiji can elevate your business. Call us at 1800 625 387 or email enquiries@ probeautysolutions.com.au. Together, let’s enrich lives through the power of skin health.”
Pure Fiji Partner Testimonial
With Jessica Kent, Director at Mana Skin Body & Soul - one of Pure Fiji’s top stockists - located in the Whitsundays, QLD.
For how long have you been a Pure Fiji stockist?
“Since I purchased the business three years ago.”
What drew you to the brand initially?
“The tropical scents align perfectly with our tropical location. I wanted people to feel like they were somewhere like Fiji, which is exactly the feeling the products create!”
Talk about the products - do you partner with Pure Fiji for backbar? For retail? Or both?
“We use Pure Fiji in all off our spa packages and spa facials across all of our locations. We also stock the full face and body range across two locations and it sells so well!”
Who is the ideal Pure Fiji client?
“For us, there are two types of Pure Fiji clients:
1) Our clients that are on holidays and looking to treat themselves, indulge a little, and come out of their treatment smelling like a tropical holiday (and then purchasing some to take home with them!)
2) Women looking for a nourishing relaxing facial, that are after a natural product range which leaves their skin feeling great! The dilo facial range is really popular with our 60+ clients.”
What are some defining characteristics of the products that you love most?
“We love all the natural ingredients, and the large range of scents to offer our clients. I also love the body range and the specific benefits of the signature range to go hand in hand with our clients’ concerns.”
Why does Pure Fiji stand out from competitor brands in the professional market?
“Pure Fiji stands out for a couple of reasons for me. The first is the company’s sustainability practices that shows through the entire production process, from harvesting to hitting the shelf. And the support of the local communities is so valuable to the Fijian people.
I also believe the price point is great. We get natural spa products of an amazing quality at home for a really great price.”
Pure Fiji taps into both skincare and wellness spaces. Do you see a demand for wellness-inspired services at your business?
“Yes we definitely do have a demand for wellness here at Mana. We are located in a tourist town, which means we see a lot of people here trying to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and take some time for themselves.
We also have a lot of our local clients that come in regularly purely for wellness - whether it be a massage with a full body exfoliation (sugar rub), or a relaxing spa facial. We also offer float and sauna services to pair with our treatments, which really complete the wellness experience.
I believe that we have created an environment that gives our clients a moment to escape from the outside world and breathe.”
Describe one of the hero body treatments you offer using Pure Fiji.
“Our top spa package is our ‘Mana Glow Ritual’ which leaves our clients glowing from head-to-toe. This uses the coconut sugar rub to exfoliate and renew the body from head-to-toe, followed by a full body massage with the Guava Body Butter to hydrate the skin, finishing with a vitamin C facial. It’s the perfect treatment for a full body glow!”
Talk us through the training and support offered by Professional Beauty Solutions.
“I could not ask for more from PBS. They offer one-on-one support through Julie, our Business Development Manager. Julie has helped guide me from the very start. Any support I need is always there; I always get a response to any questions or queries I have, and Julie is always keeping in touch to check how we are!
And the training provided by PBS is incomparable to other suppliers I have worked with in the past. We have access to monthly zoom training sessions, covering what we would like to focus on. We can also do the same for new staff. PBS has a fantastic online platform with all the training videos for each range, product and treatments. The wonderful Julie comes up to Airlie beach for face-to-face training a couple of times a year, which is invaluable to me and my team! All this, along with the best marketing support we could ever ask for! They provide us with all we need to be successful with each and every brand we stock.” ■
“WE COLLABORATE WITH STOCKISTS WHO PRIORITISE BOTH THE EMOTIONAL AND PHYSICAL WELL-BEING OF THEIR CLIENTS, KEEN TO TRANSFORM THE SKIN WITH NATURAL INGREDIENTS AND PREMIUM PRODUCTS THAT EMBODY THE BEAUTY AND LIFESTYLE OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC.”
COSMOPROF ASIA 2024 Inside
What we discovered at APAC’s leading beauty trade event.
DID YOU know that in 2024, the global beauty market had an estimated worth of $USD628 billion ($AUD962.70 billion)? A third of that - or around $USD191 billion ($AUD292.79 billion) - is driven by the Asia-Pacific beauty market alone.
With growth on their sights, it’s no wonder thousands of beauty and aesthetic product manufacturers, suppliers, packaging specialists and technology providers descend on Cosmoprof Asia every year to showcase their services to guests from across the globe. In fact, the number of international attendees is on the up, according to data gathered from last year’s event. That edition welcomed over 2,500 exhibitors and 80,000 attendees - both higher than in years prior. 120,000sqm of exhibition space was used, and featured 18 country and group pavilions including Australia.
For many years, Professional Beauty has attended Cosmoprof Asia to report on emerging industry trends. 2024 marked the beauty trade exhibition’s 27th year of operation - and it didn’t disappoint. Held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from November 13-15, Cosmoprof coincided with supply chain fair, Cosmopack, which was held in the days prior. Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia 2024 were jointly produced by Asia Informa Markets, Hong Kong and BolognaFiere.
“As always, we’re excited to provide a home for the best-of-the-best in the beauty industry, while connecting industry professionals from around the world,” Angel Fu, Event Director at Informa Markets told the press.
“WE’RE EXCITED TO PROVIDE A HOME FOR THE BEST-OF-THE-BEST IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, WHILE CONNECTING INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS FROM AROUND THE WORLD.”
The Awards
80% of the 420 products submitted from nearly 400 companies into the 2024 Cosmoprof & Cosmopack Asia Awards came from countries outside of China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. This figure underscores the event’s expansive reach and impact of the show on a global scale. The awards are produced in partnership with international trend agency, BEAUTYSTREAMS. Awards were presented across 11 categories and recognised achievements in innovation, technology, design, and excellence. The jury was made up of judges from five continents. Winners were announced over a champagne celebration at Cosmo Onstage.
The Talks
Eager insiders flocked to the CosmoTalks stage to listen in on several industryrelated discussions featuring global beauty KOLs, 70% of whom were representative of countries outside of Hong Kong. The programme was reflective of Cosmoprof’s commitment to exploring global topics, addressing both challenges and opportunities for professionals. Beauty influencers, stemming from Poland to Korea, were also in attendance via the event’s Beauty Hunt activation.
The Innovations
Cosmo Onstage provided an exclusive opportunity for companies to showcase their expertise via live demonstrations, performances and competitions. Those presenting included makeup artists, hair stylists, nail artists, and influencers. Similarly, COSMOLAB paved the way for innovators in hair care to present on the trend of ‘Skintification’ in hair care. This interactive presentation, which was hosted in collaboration with OPAL, allowed visitors to explore the future of beauty through the AI-powered HairCoSys ‘Bloomtastic’ platform.
Words:
Hannah Gay | Photography: Supplied
The Human Touch BUYER PROGRAMME was set up to forge connections amongst beauty professionals worldwide. In addition, BOUTIQUE was developed as a charity initiative with proceeds donated to Save The Children. Attendees who made a minimum donation of $HKD100 ($AUD20) were able to experience the best of flagship products from 15 selected sponsors. In return, they received a bag of goodies containing five product samples.
The Trends
Three key trends in the Asia-Pacific region were identified by Cosmoprof organisers:
1) Sensitive skincare has attracted much attention
2) Prove it with science; earn trust to drive innovation
3) Redefining aging.
On the topic of ‘Redefining Aging’, it was noted that growing interest in this space presents an opportunity for brands to innovate and promote a positive perspective on aging as a natural part of life’s journey. According to Mintel, 24% of Chinese women aged 18-24 strongly agree that cosmetic brands consistently present an untrue image of
ON THE GROUND, PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SPOTTED THE FOLLOWING EYE-CATCHING PRODUCT TRENDS AND UNIQUE OFFERINGS:
• Exosomes
• Spicules
• ‘Water’ or ‘Aqua’ heroes on the front of skincare product packaging, in association with descriptors like ‘Glass’, ‘Translucent’
• Vegetable-based sheet masks
• Portable LED lights for all areas of the face and body
• Devices featuring upwards of 10 hand pieces
• Scalp rejuvenation services
• Microcurrent hair combs
• Non-invasive services made available in different formats
• Full body spa booths
• UV booths for skin whitening
• Hair removal at-home topicals
• Adhesive gel nail strips.
women in their advertisements (compared to 17% of all women surveyed). Ingredients like collagen and peptides have become essential in anti-aging products, particularly recombinant human collagen and cyclic peptides.
According to Mintel’s 2024 Ingredients Trend List, the top three anti-aging ingredients with the highest potential are ergothioneine, copper peptides, and astaxanthin. In Japan, anti-aging claims associated with new skincare products experienced a downturn, with claims instead focused on reducing fine lines and wrinkles. The same could be said for South Korea.
Emphasis was also placed on our projected heightened life span and ensuring that our beauty and inner wellness remains aligned into our old age. Researchers are said to be looking at activating a gene that targets chronic inflammation - a potentially game-changing move for the beauty and wellness industries.
The COSMOTRENDS ASIA report was curated by BEAUTYSTREAMS and highlighted key emerging trends reflected in a selection of 20 shortlisted products. 91% of the submitted products came from global companies - a feat organisers said “showcases Cosmoprof Asia’s strong ability to attract cuttingedge innovation and creativity from around the world.”
What’s next for Cosmoprof Asia?
Cosmopack Asia and Cosmoprof Asia 2025 will officially run from November 11-13 2025, and November 12-14 2025 respectively. Set to launch is a new activation: Beauty Ingredients and Formulation Asia (BIFA) - a stream set to provide insights from raw material suppliers, and facilitate meetings between suppliers and companies. Director of Cosmoprof Asia, David Bondi said, “It’s important to meet with R&D, marketers and brand owners. They’re all interested in solutions; there is a positive ecosystem here.” ■
TREATMENTS ON TRIAL
PB’s Hannah Gay flags four noteworthy treatments she’s tried this season.
What: SunEscape Spray Tan
Where: The Parlour Room, Clovelly, Sydney
A self-proclaimed spray-tan aficionado, I thought I’d seen it all. That’s until I had my first experience with a SunEscape professional tan, performed by the experienced team at The Parlour Room. I underwent a consultation with my tanning technician who liaised with me on my colour of choice. A natural Fitz 1, we felt the best course of action for me would be a blend of SunEscape’s two lightest-leaning shades: Weekend in Bondi and Week in Fiji with 10% DHA and 12% DHA respectively. Two further shades - Month in Maui and Summer in Santorini - are also available for those after a darker result, stretching up to a 16% DHA. The ability to custom-blend my tan was essential in providing me the healthy glow I was after. I also loved that the solution could be rinsed off after two hours, without impacting my depth of tan.
Never have I been so impressed by the staying power of a spray tan solution. SunEscape made for the most even, patch-free fade I’ve ever experienced; so much so, colour lasted into week two without the need for removal. And thank goodness for SunEscape’s Gradual Tan Extender, because this is one tan you don’t want to lose! Hard to beat!
What: DMK PinkZyme
Where: Melissa Young Beauty, Glebe, Sydney
Who doesn’t love an enzyme? Make it pink, and you’ve got yourself a fun, unique (and charitable!) salon offering destined to draw a crowd. In light of Breast Cancer Awareness month last October, DMK partners painted the town pink to raise money toward the fight against breast cancer. Proceeds from every PinkZyme treatment went toward the National Breast Cancer Foundation Australia or the Breast Cancer Foundation NZ. A specialised pink dye was added to DMK’s signature enzyme treatment, making for a fabulous Insta-worthy moment worthy of a great cause.
This wasn’t the first time I’d experienced DMK enzyme therapy, so I knew what to expect and just how great the results would be. The treatment, designed to draw oxygen into the skin and restart dormant cells, provides an effective exercise in lymphatic drainage. The mask was left to set on my skin and decollete, while my incredible therapist Kealan performed a luxurious arm and hand massage. According to DMK, enzyme therapy uses reverse osmosis to help flush away toxins and free radicals to stimulate collagen production.
A plasmatic map formed under my skin, despite having had the treatment before - a telltale sign my capillaries had been hard at work to renew and restore. I adore this treatment as a type of ‘Spring clean’ for the skin - a treatment I can rely on time and time again to bring life and light back to my complexion.
What: mesoestetic Perfect Day
Where: Jocelyn Petroni, Woollahra, Sydney
Cocktailing the mesoéclat pre-treatment with solutions from mesoestetic’s signature age element line, Perfect Day makes for the perfect protocol in providing a flash of energy to the skin. The protocol consists of four phases, working in tandem to renew the outermost layers of the epidermis. The treatment ran as follows: a double cleanse was performed using the age element cleansing balm, extractions were performed around the nose and chin, mesolips protector was applied around the nostrils and outer lips, 5mls of the mesoéclat pre-treatment solution was measured and painted onto the skin, before the mesoéclat ampoule was massaged in to further encourage the penetration of actives. Despite my initial confidence, the sting of the salicylic got the better of me - signal the ice globes! I melted back into the bed as the algae-based age element firming mask melted onto my skin. After enjoying a blissful 20-minute shoulder and arm massage, my therapist completed my treatment with the fast skin repair cream and moisturising sun protection. Expectations of erythema were banished in place of a supple, even complexion, smoothed texture and supercharged glow. I experienced light shedding in the days following treatment, particularly around my nostrils and chin where a secondary layer of the peel was applied. One week on, however, it struck me just how flaw-free my complexion was. I had not a blemish in sight; tone even. I could confidently go sans makeup from AM to PM without hesitation. Despite the sting, my Perfect Day resulted in a perfect skin week. Worth it? I say ‘yes!’
What:
Skin Moderne Oxygen Enzyme
Where: Embellish Inc., Brookvale, Sydney
Skin Moderne is taking the humble enzyme to the next level, utilsing the power of two devices and targeted topicals to deliver a long-lasting impact to the skin. I visited the always brilliant Jen, owner of Embellish Inc. in Sydney’s north, for my first run with Skin Moderne. The brand advocates the use of biocompatible ingredients to signal a like-for-like response in the skin. My treatment was customised, based on my skin’s unique needs.
Jen commenced by cocktailing the brand’s signature C Fusion and Bio Placenta serums, before penetrating ingredients into the skin using the NANOFusion PRO device. Functioning much like a needling device but without the injury, NANOfusion worked efficiently and comfortably on the skin. After applying the Healing & Soothing Sheet Mask, a secondary device - ULTRAFusion PRO - further penetrated ingredients via the use of ultrasound technology.
The anti-ageing Finishing Serum was applied to help relax my facial muscles, followed by the soothing Pacifi Serum. A serving of the Breakfast Smoothie moisturiser and Cell-CPR Eye Cream were also applied, followed by the Phyto-Fusion Smoothie Oil. To ease any further signs of redness, the Saint Minerals BB Cream was also applied. I experienced zero downtime with this treatment and one week on, continued to relish in my plump, glowing complexion. Skin Modern’s Oxygen Enzyme included the works, but by no means felt invasive, painful or difficult to manage post-treatment. I feel confident in recommending this option to clients new to cosmeceuticals who are looking for a comfortable yet highly effective skin pick-me-up.
MEET YOUR MAKERS
Behind the scenes at the creation stage of some of Australia’s best known beauty brands are pH Factor’s Rita Sellars and Melinda Tizzone. Hannah Gay sat down with the local contract manufacturers to discuss the state of the sector, regulation, greenwashing, and the realities of creating a beauty product.
FOR 15 YEARS, Rita Sellars has led pH Factor - a Sydney-based personal and home care product manufacturer, overseeing product creation from development stage through to providing training and education to emerging brands. The multi-accredited chemist and biochemist regularly speaks at international conferences on key topics ranging from beauty marketing, to sustainability and packaging. Rita’s right-hand is seasoned skincare expert, Melinda Tizzone, whose background extends from retailing through to education, now overseeing product development as the company’s General Manager.
Rita and Melinda can name-drop because chances are, if you’ve heard of the brand, pH Factor have collaborated with them. Yet, professional brands make up
a mere 10% of those they work with. The pair field daily enquiries from new and existing clients hoping ph Factor will help them launch the next big thing in beauty.
Contract manufacturers like pH Factor provide direction to clients seeking to create a product, oftentimes from scratch. Rita describes her role as “tech support”, aiding brands on the logistical considerations surrounding anything from ingredient use to packaging. In short, she
provides a sense check between the client and the manufacturer. She substantiates claims written on product packaging, keeping brands accountable. Regular consumer trials are also run, leaning on a database in the thousands to provide honest feedback on their experiences using a formula.
In 2025, the global beauty marketplace is saturated by competition. For the majority of newcomer brands, the reality of getting a finished product onto shelves is a far cry from what appears on the drawing board. While we experienced a surge of “indie beauty brands” a decade ago, Rita warns few are still standing. The issue often comes down to batch sizes, with start-ups holding unrealistic expectations on how many units are likely to sell their first year. “L’Oreal and Unilever can make a million units, but your everyday Priceline or Chemist Warehouse brand is making 1000-5000 units maximum.”
Working with traditional contract manufacturers, Rita explains, can be a costly and difficult exercise. Innovation is harder to come by given they’re more likely to utilise any of the thousands of ingredients they have on hand before investing in new ones. Likewise, grassroots beauty businesses don’t have the funds to buy their own raw materials. The team seeks to source solutions in smaller quantities, and encourage brands to piggyback off materials already on order. “We’re always a point of call because we’ve been around for so long.”
pH Factor can manufacture a pilot batch of 100 units to encourage emerging brands to test their market. “We've got brands that are in Sephora that are only going through a couple of hundred units,” Melinda says. While partnering with large-scale beauty chains is beneficial for a brand’s marketing and brand awareness, “it doesn't necessarily mean that they’re pumping through large volumes [of product].” Alternatively, Melinda suggests spreading ingredients across multiple product types.
Australian manufacturers are also at the mercy of location, with lead times reaching 25 weeks for ingredients to make their way over, ordered in minimum 400kg lots. “It’s never going to suit the Australian market, and it’s not going to suit the USA either - people are expecting innovation more quickly.” As a result, the duo are witnessing an about-turn away from local production in
RITA & MELINDA PREDICT THE NEXT BIG THINGS IN BEAUTY:
● Dissolvable tongue strips to enter the ingestible beauty space
● Terms like ‘skinflammation’ and ‘inflammaging’ marketed to consumers
● Further growth in wellness. “People want to feel good; people aren’t feeling good”
● Dupes
● Perimenopausal products
● Acne “hasn’t hit its peak yet”
● Offshore manufacturing.
“OUR MOTTO TO ALL BRANDS IS: IF YOU EXPECT CONSUMERS TO INVEST IN YOUR BRAND, YOU NEED TO INVEST IN YOUR BRAND.”
favour of cheaper rates overseas. “Back in the day, it used to take 18 months to launch a product. Nowadays, it takes three to six because that’s what the market is demanding; because of TikTok. Manufacturers are being put under the pump, launching products that aren’t necessarily robust,” Rita says. Melinda furthers this, citing requests from chain retail stockists to lessen the wholesale price of a product, oftentimes at the expense of a formulation’s efficiency.
On labelling and regulation
Issues around greenwashing can stem at the certification stage. “For many, I don’t believe it’s commercially viable to have a certified organic brand,” Melinda admits, noting the expense it takes for brands to undergo official testing. “Our motto to all brands is: if you expect consumers to invest in your brand, you need to invest in your brand,” Rita argues. “That means you've got to do your due diligence and make sure that you're giving them something that's safe.” To have a product tested at a minimum - including a “plate count and mini stability test” - Rita says it’s possible for less than $1000 per product. But for many emerging brands, money can feel better spent on a marketing campaign or influencer.
“We follow the ACCC guidelines, but that’s just for labelling and packaging, they’re not mandatory requirements. There’s no government stipulating that your product needs to be stability tested, or micro tested, or PET tested.” The ACCC instead conducts audits on products to check for issues, which can result in a recall. “We’re into safe preservatives. We will say ‘you either have a safe preservative or you don’t have a brand’. Brand owners need to be realistic.” Melinda adds, “to have a certified organic product, but to be competitive in the market - they don't go hand-in-hand because of the cost of raw materials and of producing a certified organic product - it’s double compared to a normal product without. Natural preservatives will also add $3-$4 to a formula. If your market's prepared to pay $90 for a cleanser, knock yourself out. But you need a market, and the organic market is less than 1%.”
The professional space remains the exception, where the pair agree discerning skin therapists are most considered in their approach to product efficacy. “We also speak to so many salons that want to create a range because they can't afford the $5000 minimum orders” offered by third party suppliers. This is because pH Factor is able to supply salons with significantly smaller unit quantities tailored to less frequent retail sales. Despite this, Rita and Melinda are avid supporters of preexisting Australian skincare brands, most notably for the support salons receive in partnering with them. “Creating a range is fine, but you've got to pump marketing into it,” Rita says. “Unless you've got a great salon and you've already got those people that respect your opinion, you've done your testing, and you're using it… that’s how the likes of Skinstitut started. However, that was 20 years ago; the market is now saturated and so competitive.”
Product packaging, regulations, and sustainability
Rita flags a disconnect between what the future of packaging regulations are set to look like, and what is actually getting produced. Where beauty brands often lean into packaging that is aesthetically appealing, having that same packaging be recyclable is another consideration altogether. “And that’s not to mention those smaller brands making 5000 units, and still sitting on 3500 a year-and-a-half later and have to dump it,” she warns. “You don’t want to be a problem to our environment.” China-made packaging tends to be ordered in bulk only at single sizes, eliminating a brand’s ability to customise their range. “Unless you’re a large brand, Australia doesn’t have any [product packaging] manufacturers.”
Recycling a product post-use isn’t as straight-forward as it is marketed to be. Rita says, “plastic can only be heated a certain amount of times, so it's not like we can reuse a bottle 50 million times, it doesn't work that way.” Ongoing public confusion around the recycling process lends itself to what Rita and Melinda describe as a general lack of care around sustainability that remains rife on the side of beauty brands. A more sustainable approach to product creation and ➤
re-recreation won’t occur “unless a tariff will be forced on brands [to do so]. Plus, our infrastructure doesn’t allow for recycling, and we have different processes state-by-state.” Sustainable also doesn’t automatically make for a better product. Options like glass packaging and solid shampoo bars remain in high demand, but can be costly to produce and require large amounts of water. “It offsets what you’re trying to achieve.”
Inconsistencies in ingredient education
Between formulators, the level of education held can also vary. Where it’s one thing to understand the composition of an ingredient, Melinda argues it’s another to transition that formula into manufacturing. Again, this variation comes down to the lack of industry regulation overall.
“A disappointing thing I’ve noticed over the years is the rise of advice on the internet,” Rita says. “I will never give advice on skin because I'm not a dermatologist. I know what works in a formula, and I know ingredients. So I get really angry when I see people talk about ingredients and their compatibility. The consumer is the only person losing out in this whole beauty and wellness trillion-dollar industry because they don't know what to buy. They're confused by all the messages, and there are so many brands out there… we've allowed this. There needs to be a standardised way to communicate skin issues. I think that would cut out the noise.”
During the pandemic, the Australian market witnessed a run of new beauty brands launched, with few remaining today. “The truth is, there’s probably only three or four [that are still around]. It's all about, what is your purpose? What do you want to create, and why do you want to create it? And then let's create a story.” Otherwise, the women recommend salon owners seek out solutions from the country’s pre-existent cohort of professional brands. “If I were a salon… I would host a champagne night, invite my database, have new clients purchase a subscription, and have reps from the brand do a talk… you would convert those clients to the brand,” Rita recommends.
On the question of whether the Australian beauty industry would likely be regulated anytime soon, Rita wonders “how would we even regulate something like it? Beauty is lower risk [versus an industry like electronics, for example]. Also, the growth of the Australian beauty industry and many local indie brands has only happened in the last 10-15 years.” Melinda cites changes that occurred in the EU at that time, whereby safety legislations on cosmetic products came into effect and left many small, non-tested players to fall by the wayside. If something goes awry, responsibility ultimately falls onto the brand owner, not the manufacturer. “I've worked with brands for 20 years…,” Melinda starts, Rita continues, “...but no one talks about the brands that are falling apart.”
What’s next for Australian beauty?
Rita can count on two hands the number of “amazingly innovative” products she’s encountered in her thirty years. So, what enquiries are the pH Factor team currently fielding most? “Every second
request we’re getting now is for sunscreen. Retinol also continues to grow… with sun damage, there’s the after product. We’ve had a lot of doctors come to us to create their own clinic brands,” the pair reveal. Rita hopes to see more personalised services marketed in-salon, like massages strictly for the hands; “we truly see gaps in the market.” Colour cosmetics will also continue to grow, but the machinery required has not been made available in Australia due to lack of demand. “I think we’re on the tail-end of lash and eyebrow [growth products].”
“I think innovation has to come back… everything is cyclical. It's just the cost of living that has stifled us; people aren't spending the money,” Melinda says. “There's constant innovation around ingredients… It's whether the Australian market is going to invest in using that technology.”
Rita adds, “brands need to realise that consumers have retail fatigue… there’s now 11 touchpoints before a consumer buys your brand. Unless you have thousands of dollars to spend on social media to get your brand visible, you’re not going to do well. But we’re in the midst of a crash, and [the industry] will re-build… it will re-generate.” ■
“THE CONSUMER IS THE ONLY PERSON LOSING OUT IN THIS WHOLE BEAUTY AND WELLNESS TRILLION-DOLLAR INDUSTRY BECAUSE THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT TO BUY. THEY'RE CONFUSED BY ALL THE MESSAGES, AND THERE ARE SO MANY BRANDS OUT THERE… WE'VE ALLOWED THIS.”
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Unlocking THE RIGHT LASH EDUCATOR
In 2024, Alyssa O’Rourke & Adrian Caligiuri took over ownership of Locks Lash - a multi award-winning Australian lash education business and product supplier. Alyssa spoke with Hannah Gay on the various avenues students can take in undergoing lash training, detailing the ways Locks Lash sets itself apart in a growing private training sector.
Congratulations on acquiring Locks Lash last year! I understand you’ve worked your way through the business. What drew you to the lash industry to begin with?
“It’s a bit of an unconventional story. While I wasn’t always deeply passionate about beauty itself, I’ve always loved connecting with people. I’ve always found joy in making others feel good—both inside and out—and becoming a lash technician gave me the perfect opportunity to do that. For me, it’s not just about applying lashes; it’s about creating a space where meaningful conversations happen, where clients can unwind, and leave not only looking great but feeling uplifted, too. There’s something truly rewarding in knowing that a simple lash appointment can have such a positive impact on someone’s day and confidence. That’s what truly drew me to this industry.”
Given you’ve worked as a trainer for Locks Lash, what have you come to understand about the lash industry and application techniques in this time?
“I've gained a deeper understanding of both the artistry and technical skill that the lash industry requires. One of the key takeaways for me has been just how important precision and attention to detail are, not only in the application process/isolating the lashes but also in understanding the unique needs of each client. Every set of lashes is different, and tailoring the technique to suit individual eye shapes and desired results is crucial.
I've also learned how essential proper education and technique are for safety and long-term success. Lash health is something that often gets overlooked, but as a trainer, I've seen first-hand how critical it is to teach proper isolation, product selection, and
aftercare to ensure clients get the best results without compromising the health of their natural lashes. I found Locks Lashes products to be so good that I never bothered to try anywhere else, down to their glue, lashes, primer and Unicorn Tears pH balancer (yes that’s the product’s name and it’s honestly the best kept secret to lash retention!)
From an application standpoint, I’ve seen how tools, products, and techniques continue to evolve. It amazes me how much the lash industry is evolving every day; there is always something new on the horizon! It’s definitely not a dying trade or industry, in my opinion.
Ultimately, being a trainer with Locks Lash has reinforced the importance of ongoing education, staying current with trends, and continuously refining techniques to not only meet but exceed expectations.”
Lashes are a booming trade. Why do you believe this is?
“Lashes are a booming trade because, in many ways, they’ve become the ultimate symbol of vanity in the age of instant gratification. But here’s the controversial part: I think the lash industry thrives because it plays into our insecurities. Social media, influencers, and reality TV have set an unrealistic standard of beauty, and lashes— whether it’s a full set of classic lash extensions, mega-volume lash extensions, or lash lifts—offer a quick and seemingly easy way to meet that expectation.
Lashes have become a go-to for women who want to look effortlessly ‘done’ without the hassle, and honestly, who wouldn’t want to wake up feeling their best with minimal effort? From my experience as a lash tech, when I talk to clients, the main reason they get lash extensions is to feel 'put together' and 'beautiful' without spending time on a full makeup routine. It’s not so much about impressing others—it’s about boosting your own confidence and saving time. With that kind of convenience and payoff, how could it ever fade out? It’s addictive, and lashes are definitely here to stay!
There’s been some talk about the lash industry being a 'dying trade.' In reality, the lash industry is far from fading—it’s evolving. New techniques and application methods are continuously emerging, keeping it dynamic and innovative. Think of
Photography: Supplied
lash techs like hairdressers: hairdressers aren’t going anywhere, so why would lash artists? While strip lashes may be shifting to cluster lashes, just as hair extensions evolved to clip-ins, people still visit hairdressers. The same goes for lashes; the artistry and professional expertise remain essential.”
Students can gain accreditation through Locks Lash without completing any prior beauty education. What are some of the advantages for students who opt to take this targeted path?
“In Australia a lot of services, including lash extensions, are not regulated. This means that you don't need to do a government-accredited course to be able to conduct the service, start a business, gain employment, be covered by insurance, and so on. We provide a Certification of Competency and our certificates are also beauty industry recognised in Australia and New Zealand.
What really sets Locks Lash apart is the quality and depth of the training we provide. Even though the regulations are relatively relaxed, we don’t take a relaxed approach to education. Our training is comprehensive, research-driven, backed by science. and focused on setting a high standard within the industry.
Many online courses impose a time limit for completion, but at Locks Lash, we take a different approach. We offer lifetime access to all of our online courses, ensuring that students can learn at their own pace without any pressure. What’s more, we’re committed to continuous growth and innovation, regularly updating our courses with new content and techniques. This means that anyone who has purchased a course, whether recently or years ago, will receive all future updates— completely FREE—throughout their career. It’s our way of ensuring our students are always equipped with the latest industry knowledge and skills - exchange in abundance!
For students without prior beauty education, this path offers a real opportunity to learn from the ground up, without the barrier of needing extensive prior experience. Our courses are designed to give them everything they need to succeed—focused, hands-on training that covers everything from technique to client care, and even business skills for those looking to run their own lash or brow businesses. By offering a Certificate of Completion, we ensure that our students walk away with a solid understanding of the craft and the confidence to start their careers immediately. We're not just teaching lash application—we're setting the benchmark for the industry, ensuring that everyone who completes our course is fully equipped to excel and maintain the highest standards of quality and professionalism.”
What issues arise for students who opt to entirely self-train in lashes?
“When students choose to entirely self-train in lashes, there are a few key issues that often arise, particularly when they don’t have structured guidance or professional oversight. First and foremost, lack of proper technique can be a major concern. Lash application isn’t just about placing extensions on lashes; it requires precision in isolation, correct lash glue/adhesive usage, and a deep understanding of lash health. Without expert guidance, students may develop bad habits that are difficult to unlearn and can lead to poor results, or even damage to the client’s natural lashes. Another issue is the absence of quality feedback. When self-training, students may not know if they’re doing something wrong until it becomes a problem with clients. Without a trainer to offer corrections or constructive feedback, there’s a risk
“LASHES ARE A BOOMING TRADE BECAUSE, IN MANY WAYS, THEY’VE BECOME THE ULTIMATE SYMBOL OF VANITY IN THE AGE OF INSTANT GRATIFICATION.”
of students not fully understanding the subtleties of the craft, like creating a well-balanced set of lashes or working with different lash types for various eye shapes. Safety and hygiene are also critical, and they’re often overlooked when students go down the self-training path. Professional lash courses teach not only technique but the essential aspects of working safely with products, managing adhesives (you’re working with powerful glue around eyes, a very sensitive area), and keeping a sterile workspace— things that are easy to overlook when training alone.
Lastly, client management and business skills can be neglected. Many self-taught lash artists are excellent technically but may struggle with client communication, understanding aftercare, or managing the business side of things, like pricing, marketing, and time management. Professional training provides a well-rounded skillset that goes beyond just the application process.
While self-training may seem cost-effective, it can lead to more mistakes and costly fixes down the road. Opting for professional, structured training ensures students get the full picture—ensuring not only that they master the art of lashes but also that they work safely, build a successful business, and maintain longterm client satisfaction.”
Many would argue intricate hands-on work like lash application ought to be conducted in-person only. How has Locks Lash overcome this barrier?
“Many people assume that intricate, hands-on skills like lash application can only be taught in-person. While face-to-face learning certainly has its benefits, I’ve always believed that a well-structured online course can offer just as much—if not more—value, when done right. ➤
“WHILE FACE-TO-FACE LEARNING CERTAINLY HAS ITS BENEFITS, I’VE ALWAYS BELIEVED THAT A WELL-STRUCTURED ONLINE COURSE CAN OFFER JUST AS MUCH—IF NOT MORE— VALUE, WHEN DONE RIGHT.”
Personally, I experienced both sides of the equation. About eight years ago, I attended an in-person training with Locks Lash, which was a oneday course, from 9am to 5pm, where I was given a written manual to take home. Then, a few years later, I completed their online course, and I was genuinely amazed by how thorough and detailed it was. The online training not only matched the in-person experience, but it also provided me with an incredible amount of information that I could revisit at any time. For instance, if I encountered a problem with a client, I could easily review my course materials to troubleshoot. The depth of the content made me feel like I had just completed a university-level program—it was that comprehensive. And I say that with a smile, but it's the truth! The course is packed with value, combining videos, written content, and close-up demonstrations of crucial techniques, like how to dip a lash correctly in glue.
What truly sets Locks Lash apart is how interactive the online platform is. Students are required to
submit their work for assessment, complete multiplechoice quizzes, and pass practical exercises before progressing. There’s no fail rate—students continue until they’ve mastered the material and passed every step. This ensures a high level of competency and confidence.
In addition, our courses are designed to offer real-time feedback, with plenty of opportunities for students to ask questions and receive personalised advice—something many online courses lack. To further support our learners, we offer ongoing assistance whether by email, call or message to reinforce the learning experience. And for those who prefer in-person training, we offer that option and also give automatic access to our online course content as an online manual. In saying that, the online model has proven to be incredibly effective and accessible to students worldwide, regardless of location.
Ultimately, we've been able to overcome the challenge of remote learning by embracing technology and creating an engaging, interactive platform. We’re committed to providing the highest level of education, ensuring that our students are equipped with the skills and confidence they need to succeed, whether they’re learning from the comfort of their own home or in person in one of our classes.”
Locks Lash offers a broad range of courses (27 in total!). Which would you consider the most popular?
“We’re proud to offer a comprehensive range of 23 online courses and 4 additional in-person classes across Australia and New Zealand. And the excitement doesn’t stop there—we’re about to launch our 24th online course, and it’s set to be a game changer!
Our most popular courses include the Complete Lash Artistry course, which is available both online and in-person (or as a mix of both). It covers everything from classic to hybrid, as well as pre-made and pro-made volume lash extensions, giving students a complete skillset to excel in the lash industry. Another standout is our Complete Brow Master course, also offered online, in-person, or as a mix of both. This course has quickly become a must-have for anyone looking to master the art of brows. It covers Brow Lamination, Hybrid Brow Tinting, and Brow and Facial Waxing, providing students with the tools to create flawless, defined brows and elevate their services.”
You also operate courses in business and marketing. What sets these courses apart from those offered at competitor institutions?
“Many courses out there teach generic business concepts, but we’ve developed content that is directly applicable to running a lash or beauty business, helping students to thrive in a competitive and ever-evolving market. Our business courses go beyond theory. We cover everything from setting up your own lash business, pricing strategies, and client retention, to managing bookings, creating effective marketing campaigns, and leveraging social media for growth. What makes our courses unique is how we integrate hands-on tools, templates, and step-by-step guides that students can immediately apply in their businesses. It’s not just about learning concepts; it’s about implementing them in a way that drives real results.”
What is next for Locks Lash? What training reforms, if any, are you set to implement to see the business grow?
“Since we took over Locks Lash, we’ve been brimming with ideas, and now it’s all about putting them into action. There’s a lot of excitement ahead! Personally, I’m passionate about bringing Locks Lash back to its original roots—back to when I was a consumer myself—and then building on that foundation as we continue to grow. Locks Lash has already been established as leaders in the education space, and we have big plans to take that even further.
One of the things we’re most proud of is our lash glue, particularly HOLY GRAIL— our signature product. The retention it provides is unmatched, and we hear time and time again from our customers that it’s one of the reasons they swear by it. This product has become a cornerstone of our brand, and we plan to build on that success.
Looking ahead, our goal is to expand not just in education, but also to help build and grow successful salons around the world. Whether it’s through our courses or our premium products, we’re dedicated to supporting lash and brow artists and salon owners in achieving long-term success. The journey is just beginning, and we can’t wait to see what the future holds as we continue to innovate and inspire across the globe.” ■
OTHER TRAINING OPPORTUNITIES AVAILABLE TO AUSTRALIAN EMERGING LASH TECHNICIANS IN 2025 ARE OFFERED VIA:
ELLEEBANA
Face-to-face lash education seminars are run throughout the year by Elleebana in every state of Australia. These courses feature training in lash lifts, lash lamination, and lash extensions for beginners through to advanced capabilities. A mix of courses are also available for completion online.
Elleebana also offers different types of Salon Sessions. Discovery Sessions (suited to interested Elleebana stockists) and Support Sessions (suited to current Elleebana stockists) provide teams a personalised training experience with a Master Trainer from Elleebana’s extensive national network. This can involve training in a specific service or product range to ensure Elleebana lash and brow technicians are making the most of their service offerings. So far, Master Trainers have travelled to salons in the likes of Darwin, Rockhampton, Bendigo, Albury, Coffs Harbour, and Byron Bay, to name a few. Discovery Sessions and Salon Sessions are subject to availability and usually take two weeks to secure.
The business, which celebrates 30 years of operation in 2025, also exports its best-selling Lash Lift and Profusion ranges to over 60 countries globally.
Find details on Elleebana’s 2025 face-to-face courses online at www.elleebana.com/education-calendar.
Find details on Elleebana’s Salon Sessions online at www.elleebana.com/salonsessions.
INTERNATIONAL LASH MASTERS
International Lash Masters (ILM) held its first conference in Melbourne in 2019 with just 69 attendees. Since then, another five have been held with future annual events slated to run, including in 2025.
Deanna Campese, the founder of ILM, says “being a lash artist, or [member of] the beauty industry can be quite isolating if we work by ourselves; it can be hard to reach others in the community.” Inspired by similar events she’d seen running in the USA and the sense of community they sought to develop among industry professionals, Deanna opted to launch her conference in Australia. “We have even seen a lot of business collaborations come from attendees becoming friends and networking with each other.”
“The ILM conference is suited to both experienced and emerging lash technicians. We try to balance seminars [focused on] different areas of business growth to now include marketing and social media, with seminars on lash and brow techniques. Everyone can benefit.”
ILM conferences seek to inspire its audiences with a mixed offering of national and international lash educators, suppliers, salons, as well as talent from the brow and PMU industries. Sessions are suited to emerging and experienced lash technicians alike. “Everyone in the industry is on their own path. Some lash artists have goals of business expansion into opening salons, some want to develop their own product line or educate their own students,” Deanna explains. “I think about what I’d like to listen to in terms of seminars and who would be the best for each, as a person in the same boat as the attendees. I am no different to them and I know the struggles or trajectory they might have for themselves, which I think is important to take into consideration.”
Like Lash Locks, a key pillar of IML events is in its business advice offering. “We started off expanding to include success stories of business owners in the space however with the rise of importance of marketing, especially online and understanding how to attract customers within your business in more modern ways, it only seemed fitting to have expert advice to help our attendees navigating that role they need to take on as a business owner.”
For those interested in offering lash training themselves, ILM has developed an online course to meet an increase in demand in lash artists hoping to train new students outside of completing a Certificate in Training and Assessment (or TAE). ILM has also introduced Recognised Prior Learning for those in the ILM community “to obtain their Statement of Attainments for their existing lash skills”. This move occurred in response to the introduction of assessment to Apply Volume Eyelash Extensions (SHBBMUP015) via the Australian Skills Quality Authority (ASQA). “Many lash artists completed private volume lash training prior to it even being a recognised skill under the VET system. Our community can therefore gain that accreditation now without having to re-do a lash course.”
2025 LASH TRENDS, ACCORDING TO INTERNATIONAL LASH MASTERS:
● Brown lashes
● Wispy sets
● Wet sets
● Natural-looking lash extensions
● Heavy, mega-volume lashes are out.
Deanna adds, “We wanted to help artists develop fundamental private lash courses and avoid developing ‘crash courses’ that [could lead to] a damaged industry reputation. We did this because of the minimal regulation in the beauty industry and the increase in people we spoke to who said they wanted to develop lash training courses, but weren’t sure how.”
SET, GROW! Ready,
When is the right time to expand your business?
Lawyer, undergraduate accountant, and former franchise consultant, Jade Spehr explains to Amy Hadley.
OWNING A beauty business with multiple locations is the ultimate goal for many. When executed skilfully, doing so can potentially streamline your business, attract more clients, increase revenue, and boost your presence in the industry.
Running a beauty business, let alone expanding it, can be challenging enough for owners. Opening a new location was once seemingly reserved for large or franchise-based businesses. However, it can be a lucrative prospect for small or independent business owners, when approached with a solid understanding of the benefits and risks involved.
“Many owners are cautious about growth due to economic uncertainty and rising costs,” Jade Spehr, the Director of JadeStart, shares with PB. “However, savvy, experienced players in the industry - who understand the market cycleare taking advantage of this period to strategically expand their portfolios.” She attributes sustainable growth to an owner’s ability to plan carefully, develop strong structures, and be adaptable.
“If your vision is to create a brand with multiple locations, then expansion becomes a strategic goal,” Jade explains. “It allows you to increase your market presence, build brand equity, and generate higher revenue streams. This requires strong leadership, a capable team, and efficient systems to ensure your brand standards are consistently met across locations.”
She explains that you should be fully committed to the long-term vision, as
Photography: iStock/onurdongel
“IT’S A COMBINATION OF MARKET DEMAND, FINANCIAL STABILITY, A STRONG TEAM, EFFICIENT PROCESSES, AND A REPUTABLE BRAND THAT MAKES OPENING A NEW LOCATION POSSIBLE.”
expansion can be time-consuming and demanding. If your aspirations are to change your lifestyle, be hands-off, or exit the industry altogether, other strategies might be more appropriate.
Similarly, if your business isn’t operating smoothly, it lacks the right team members, or you’re already feeling burnt out, expansion may not be the best use of your time, effort, and resources. Jade recommends exploring other ways to maximise profitability and efficiency.
If you’re achieving what beauty business owners dream about, you might be ready to expand (think: a fully booked calendar, waitlists for weeks or months, consistently strong cash flow and systems). The other side is that you might be experiencing inefficiencies –such as space limitations or difficulty accommodating clients – by not growing.
“It’s a combination of market demand, financial stability, a strong team, efficient processes, and a reputable brand that makes opening a new location possible,” Jade says. “Expansion should feel like a natural progression, not an overwhelming leap. If you’re seeing these signs, and it aligns with your business goals, then it might be time to start planning for that next step.”
Establishing the new location as a separate legal entity, conducting market research, creating a detailed budget, building a strong leadership team, and documenting operational systems are crucial steps towards expansion.
“It’s essential to take a strategic, well-researched approach,” Jade notes. “Consulting with experienced business consultants, and legal and financial experts can help you set up the right business structures and negotiate agreements that protect your interests.”
When considering expanding your business, reach out to your insurer to learn how your cover and payments may be impacted. Companies like BizCover are experienced in supporting small businesses like salons. The Australian company may be able to offer tailored advice based on your particular business goals.
“What a lot of people don’t consider is the preparation required in your current location,” Jade highlights. “Before taking the steps to expand, you need to ensure your current location/s are optimised, setting a solid blueprint for replication.” This means assessing your team’s skills and capabilities, the entire client experience, and whether your business can run seamlessly if you step out.
Another factor is whether you have the funds to make expansion a reality or if you need to pursue investment. Jade suggests being clear about what you want (be it purely financial or seeking additional mentorship) and showing investors what they are looking for: future returns.
“Investors want to see how their investment will strengthen your business beyond immediate funding,” she says. “Be prepared to show exactly how the investment will be used, how it will increase revenue, and what returns they can expect.”
Whether you decide to finance the expansion yourself or involve an investor, Jade’s advice to aspiring multi-location business owners remains the same: “By taking a proactive approach to leadership, financial planning, and team management, you can increase the chances of a successful and sustainable expansion.” ■
THE TRAITS OF AN INDUSTRY VISIONARY: WHAT SETS THEM APART AND HOW TO THINK LIKE ONE
Within Australia’s tight-knit beauty community, Maria Enna-Cocciolone is a household name. Her presence in the industry extends beyond her role as the founder of distribution company, INSKIN COSMEDICS, to formulation innovator, public speaker, and passionate change-maker. So what sets Maria and her work apart from the pack?
“I DIDN’T WANT MY CRÈME DE LA CRÈME, ACTIVE AND SOPHISTICATED FORMULATIONS TO BE LOST IN THIS CRAZY SPACE OF FALSE CLAIMS AND PROMISES.”
It was back in 1985 that Maria graduated with a Diploma of Health Science, the first of many streams of education she’d undergo over four decades. It was a surprising path to take for the student, who despite having had problematic skin as a teen, had “no idea” the professional beauty industry even existed. “In my HSC years, I told my parents I would like to pursue law or medicine, so you can only imagine their reactions the day I came home from a careers market and announced I was going to be a beauty therapist!” Maria shares. If I had known the word aesthetician (estetista in my native Italian), they may have had a better understanding of what a beauty therapist did. But left to their own perceptions, my dad translated my career choice as a massage therapist in Sydney’s Kings Cross and didn’t talk to me for three months!” she quips. “As hard as he had hoped, there was no changing my mind, because the minute beauty therapy and I locked eyes, it was love at first sight.”
Maria’s force in the industry can be largely credited to the extent of knowledge she’s accrued across a broad scope of beauty, aesthetic, and business practices. Participating in a host of company-run courses in skin science, skin conditions, ingredients, device-use, as well as electrolysis have developed her a considered perspective on what healthy skin should look like. She’s built her understanding of packaging practices, product sustainability, and branding and people (what Maria describes as “the most multilayered learning to date”). The business owner also obtained a Diploma in HR, and undertook training in skills like management and leadership.
INSKIN COSMEDICS - Maria’s foray into distribution - was launched in 2007. Three years later, O COSMEDICS was born out of her desire to identify a market gap. “As a beauty therapist, I was always led to believe that the brands I was
using and endorsing used clinical, functional actives. Yet as I became better acquainted with the ingredient and manufacturing world, I discovered this was far from the truth.” Strategically devising a new category before a new brand, Maria created and trademarked ‘cosmedical’ skincare.
“Australian law essentially allows brands with little or no actives to portray themselves as brands that are evidence-based using functional doses of actives. I didn’t want my crème de la crème, active and sophisticated formulations to be lost in this crazy space of false claims and promises. This new category was to stand for the use of active ingredients that are clinically-based in their functional dose.”
Once Maria had segregated her skin category, she says she was able to innovate under this criterion an active and effective skincare solution that would support skin experts and the skin goals they have for their clients. “Personally, I feel being honest and transparent has helped me bring professional brands to life that consumers can rely on and trust, and that will deliver the skin results they are looking for.”
While in 2025, Maria’s effectious formulations are trusted by hundreds of national salon partners and their clients, O COSMEDICS experienced early setbacks. “There were loads of skins experiencing ‘reactions’, and experts freaking out because of it,” Maria admits. “At first, I couldn’t understand what was going wrong given that the range had been tested for at least 12 months at consumer level and this issue had not come up. On deep investigation, those reactions were actually a response to active ingredient use on skins that were simply not used to them. Skins were purging, and appeared flushed and disrupted as they tried to adjust.” Despite this, Maria’s persistence would go on to pave the way for the future of the Australian professional skincare landscape.
Photography: Supplied
MARIA’S HOPES FOR THE FUTURE OF THE AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY
● “That the skin therapist is recognised as a serious qualification and service; the go-to for skin health before the consumer considers going to a GP or dermatologist treating the skin from a medical and drug perspective.”
● “That the skin therapist elevates their profession and offering; that they believe in themselves and see themselves as a skin expert.”
● “That the consumer is educated by us so that their decisions bring them closer to their skin goals and further away from relying on viral trends, false claims and promises.”
● “Qualified skin experts should be remunerated according to their skill set and qualifications. Many leave the industry or just don’t enter it because the pay structure isn’t competitive across other industries.”
● “That Australia opens its borders to qualified skin experts sooner rather than later. There is a huge labour shortage, and if we can’t employ from within we need to bring the best in from around the globe.”
● “We need to stop the import of devices that are not TGA recognised, supporting consumer safety at all times and deterring non-qualified individuals from setting up businesses in their lounge rooms.”
● “We need to ensure that qualified skin therapists are working in line with their certification. Right now, we have people with TAFE certificates performing serious skin treatments, and others with no qualifications performing IPL and laser.”
● “Whilst the industry needs to be regulated, I hope it will be self-regulated and not controlled by the medical sector as we see in the USA. There, skin therapists cannot perform treatments such as microdermabrasion, microneedling, IPL, laser and much more in some states.”
Despite the company’s impact, the empire that is Maria and INSKIN COSMEDICS can be viewed as a big fish swimming in the small pond that is the Australian beauty industry. Maria holds, however, “an international secret and pending success story waiting to be shared,” she reveals. “There is great respect for Australian-made products around the world, and to date all our partners have chosen us because we represent results, efficacy, and quality.” Maria refers to A-beauty as the “scientific version” of Korea’s K-beauty, “with strong international potential”. “Each of the INSKIN brands are strong stand-alone brands that can hold themselves on a global scale, and what makes me so sure of this is the fact Australia is such a multicultural country. Without even trying, we know our brands work across different ethnicities and their skin needs because our own population has validated its effectiveness and following in our local marketplace.”
VISION A R Y
40 years of industry expertise aside, Maria chooses to remain a visible, active and accessible team member. “I don’t sit in my CEO tower, leaving my team to do the work; I am on the ground and I am aware. I am not driven by money, but rather by perfection in what I do, and working with people with the same vibe and energy.” She opts to remain connected to all facets of the industry, and sees that she works with the best-of-the-best. “I love being in-clinic talking to and learning from skin experts; the answers are all there. I am a qualified skin expert and I create as a consumer, on behalf of consumers. My motto is: ‘what we do needs to make skin and business sense’, and allow me to create offers and opportunities that then allows the professional aesthetic industry to compete with beauty retailers worldwide. I know the industry intimately and I love it today as much, if not more than the day our ‘eyes locked’.”
When it comes to the future of Australia’s “one-of-a-kind” beauty and aesthetic industry, Maria sees that “it needs to be protected and nurtured”, starting in the training schools. “We need more schools that are in tune with the real aesthetic world (locally and internationally). Students need to graduate, ready to hit the clinic floor and making a difference from day one. Schools need relevant curriculums that make good skin and good business sense; and this means students enter the workforce trained and ready to go, not relying on employers to retrain them and make them viable.”
So what legacy will an industry visionary like Maria hope to leave behind? “If and when I retire, how do I give up something I love and adore?” she laughs.
“I want to be remembered first and foremost as a genuine and nice person that is transparent, honest, and true to her word; as a woman with a passion for her family, friends and salon partners, the industry, and its future. As the woman that introduced the professional aesthetic industry and the world to ‘cosmedical’ skincare; that taught both the skin expert and consumer that the best chance to make a skin difference depends on active ingredients in their functional dose.
The woman that saved one skin, one country at a time, offering a trilogy of brands that support a skin solution for every skin, every age, and every need.
And as someone who gave their career to the industry so that it could have the best-of-the-best in Australian made skincare that actually makes a skin difference.” ■
To learn if INSKIN COSMEDICS is the right choice for your beauty or aesthetics business, visit www.inskincosmedics.com.au.
IN WITH THE NEW
Beauty brands are experiencing a rebirth of sorts, taking their formulations, packaging, and even names back to the drawing board in order to innovate. Hannah Gay catches up with two such professional brands who’ve opted to change face.
Lust Minerals celebrated its 10th birthday in 2024! Describe the ethos of your brand. Has this ethos changed over the years?
Founder of Lust Minerals, Stacey Hollands: “Our mission has always been to educate, empower, and inspire people about the power of clean beauty and using safe ingredients that support rather than compromise the skin’s integrity. While our core values have remained unchanged, we’ve embraced growth and innovation to better serve our customers and position ourselves as leaders in the beauty space. Our products are still manufactured in Australia, which has always been non-negotiable since the very beginning. This ensures the integrity of the product and allows for quality control. It’s more important than the cost to me and also means we’re doing our bit to support the local economy.
Sustainability has become a bigger focus, leading us to make further changes to packaging so that we minimise waste. We've partnered with TerraCycle to encourage customers to recycle their empty and used beauty products in exchange for a voucher.
Our community is at the forefront of everything we do. We’ve improved the way we offer shade matching services, with virtual try-on tools and personalised consultations, understanding their pain points. We’ve expanded shade and product ranges to ensure we cater to diverse skin types and tones. We also launched the Lust Beauty and Wellness School in February last year to further expand our mission of educating and empowering people about the power of clean living and how it can impact and change their lives."
How many SKUs currently make up the full Lust Minerals portfolio?
“Close to 290 SKUs across makeup, skincare, body, accessories, face tools, and samples. I’m really proud of the range.”
“THE MAJORITY OF THESE REFORMULATIONS NOW INCLUDE PATENTED, CLINICALLY-STUDIED INGREDIENTS THAT HAVE BEEN PROVEN TO DELIVER RESULTS.”
Stacey, you said: “We’re on a mission to invest in innovation, continuing to provide the very best in clean, high-performance cosmetics.” Break down what this investment in innovation looks like to you.
“For me, this is about both the brand and my personal journey. I’m currently in the process of completing my advanced cosmetic science degree to gain a 360-degree view of products, formulations, and ingredients. This will allow me to work even closer with my cosmetic chemist on reformulations and new product formulas. This means actively listening to our community — understanding what our
customers feel is missing (if anything), what they’re craving, and what they want to see. This feedback drives us to revisit our offerings, incorporating new findings and technologies to enhance efficacy, performance, and overall customer satisfaction.”
You’re committed to partnering with beauty salons and clinics with Lust Minerals. Do you see that beauty professionals are more considerate of product formulations before opting to stock a line, compared to selling products direct-to-consumer?
“Beauty pros generally have a deeper understanding given their training and education, but I do think it’s becoming a bit of both. Consumers are becoming more aware and educated in the beauty space, but many can still be influenced by marketing or trends rather than looking at the facts around ingredients. We really try to ensure all of our marketing has a purpose by providing value and education. Beauty isn’t one-size-fits-all, so we push for personalised consultations to create tailored routines that meet each individual’s needs. After ten years in business, we’ve built credibility, and many stockists are eager to partner with us. I think a lot of salons want to offer their clients safe products, especially alongside more intensive treatments, and I’m excited to see this change becoming more common in the space.”
You recently re-released your Peptide Moisturiser with a new name and revised formula, as well as your Superfood Gel Cleanser and Volume + Peptide Mineral Mascara. Are there any other products whose formulas you’ve revised?
“We’ve also recently reformulated our Vitamin C Brightening Serum and Lip Gloss formula. The majority of these reformulations now include patented, clinically-studied ingredients that have been proven to deliver results. Including the highest possible percentages of potent ingredients to maximise results increases costs, but we value people above profits. I’m continuously working on improving other products in the range, aiming to enhance them by at least 1%.”
What has prompted you to re-visit each of these formulas?
“As technology continues to advance, so do we. Our makeup combines skincare and beauty; for instance, our lip gloss contains six nourishing oils for deep moisture and repair, while our mascara features a powerful peptide that promotes growth and strengthens lashes. It’s not just about wearing makeup; it’s about benefiting the skin while doing so. I really prioritise understanding our customers’ pain points when evaluating each individual product.”
Talk us through the reformulation process.
“The reformulation process is definitely more expensive due to our commitment to quality over cost. I personally test each product alongside my team to ensure performance. We also conduct consumer case studies to build confidence in the product’s effectiveness before launching to our community.”
You’ve also repackaged your full Lust Minerals product line-up in recent years. Why?
“In the beginning, I prioritised performance over aesthetics, which made them look very different. As we transitioned to e-commerce, there was a need to elevate our branding for a superior community experience. I invested over $460,000 over 12 months to completely rebrand our makeup and skincare lines in 2021 and 2022. This rebranding included the introduction of key body products. It was really important to me that the new branding matched the potency and efficacy of our formulations. The updated packaging definitely enhanced visual appeal and helped us stand out among other high-end brands.”
What are the benefits to both the Lust Mineral stockist and customer when products are reformulated?
“I think the biggest benefit is in the performance and results. Case study feedback and before-and-after results are then used for marketing, allowing us to be transparent and back up the results and claims we’re making. For stockists, this builds confidence in selling and advocating for our range, creating excitement within their communities to share something new. We want to challenge the myth that natural products feel good but are fluffy, and prove that you don’t have to sacrifice your health for real results.”
Do you intend on reformulating more of the range in coming years?
“Absolutely. It comes back to building trust with clean formulations. We’re proving that you don’t need to compromise quality when it comes to clean beauty and I’m really excited to keep working towards this.”
/skin regimen recently relaunched as /skin regimen/Lx.
What does ‘Lx’ stand for?
Head of Sales, Hayley May, and Head of Merchandising, Josie Cosgrove, at BLC [distributor of [ comfort zone ]): “‘Lx’ in /skin regimen/Lx is our proprietary for ‘Longevity’, highlighting the brand’s focus on enhancing skin longevity through advanced science and formulations designed to counteract visible signs of aging. Our internal research laboratories have pioneeringly been studying how to counteract the impact of the exposome since 2012 with the creation of this unique combination of potent ingredients featured throughout the line. With the new /skin regimen/Lx, our proprietary complex has been made even more effective with the introduction of myrtle from regenerative organic agriculture, a potent antioxidant."
Will there be any additions or amendments to /skin regimen’s professional protocols?
“INNOVATION IS ESSENTIAL IN SKINCARE, PARTICULARLY TO ADDRESS EVOLVING SKIN CONCERNS AND EXTERNAL FACTORS LIKE POLLUTION, STRESS, AND LIFESTYLE CHANGES.”
“Professional protocols have been updated, including treatments like “Longevity Peel,” “Longevity Detox,” and “Longevity Vitaminic.” Each treatment targets specific skin concerns, such as dullness, stress, or impurities. These treatments integrate professionalgrade formulas with innovative tools to support skin reoxygenation and muscle toning, enhancing hydration, firmness, and overall skin vitality.”
Why is innovation so important when it comes to skincare formulation?
Talk us through the ethos behind this new and improved brand, and what sets it apart from the /skin regimen brand we already know and love?
“/skin regimen/Lx emphasises science-based skin longevity, leveraging the “Longevity Complex™” to address four main factors of skin aging, and to slow down cell aging by up to 80%. This revamped line is characterised by high-tech, natural ingredients like wild indigo, polyphenols, spinach, and myrtle berries, which are sustainably sourced. The products are also designed to offer an enhanced sensory experience with improved textures, natural fragrances, and a regimen-based approach (think: “detox, power, treat”). /skin regimen/Lx’s threestep regimen and Longevity Pro Facials are crafted to personalise skincare based on individual needs, with a goal of visibly healthier and rejuvenated skin.”
Is the /skin regimen brand in its entirety set to be rebranded to /skin regimen/Lx, or just some SKUs?
“The shift to /skin regimen/Lx is comprehensive, with a relaunch of 13 SKUs and a focus on a unified three-step routine supported by four new professional treatments. The entire /skin regimen line has transitioned to the Lx branding with the inclusion of the longevity complex in all SKUs.”
Discuss what changes are set to occur to the brand’s current formulas. “/skin regimen/Lx products incorporate upgraded formulations to enhance efficacy, naturality, and sustainability. New bioactive ingredients include snow mushroom for deep hydration and three forms of hyaluronic acid to provide multilevel hydration. Additionally, the Longevity Complex™ has been enhanced with myrtle berry from regenerative agriculture, which offers antioxidant properties, supporting collagen integrity and overall skin resilience.”
“Innovation is essential in skincare, particularly to address evolving skin concerns and external factors like pollution, stress, and lifestyle changes. With proprietary ingredients like the Longevity Complex™, /skin regimen/Lx demonstrates how scientific advancements can significantly impact skin health, delay aging signs, and boost skin resilience against the exposome, addressing realworld concerns such as pollution and stress.”
[ comfort zone ] is a Certified B Corporation™ with a focus on sustainable production practices. Did the brand encounter any hurdles and considerations when reformulating the product line in order to adhere to these practices?
"The brand faced considerations around sustainably sourced ingredients and eco-friendly packaging. Products in the /skin regimen/Lx line use up to 99.5% natural-origin ingredients, 100% natural fragrances, and recyclable packaging materials, demonstrating a commitment to eco-friendly practices, balancing sustainability with efficacy.”
Any new formulations in the works for /skin regimen/Lx we ought to keep an eye out for?
“There are some exciting new products in the works that will further enhance the /skin regimen/Lx line and focus on skin longevity. These are due to launch in the second half of 2025!” ■
A MONUMENTAL MILESTONE FOR BEAUTY THERAPISTS: SECURING A PLACE ON AUSTRALIA’S CORE SKILLS OCCUPATION LIST
By Stefanie Milla, CEO & Director,
The Aesthetic and Beauty Industry Council (ABIC).
THE BEAUTY and aesthetics industry has achieved a historic milestone - one that promises to transform the opportunities available in our industry. After three years of tireless ABIC advocacy, beauty therapy has officially been added to Australia’s new Core Skills Occupation List (CSOL).
This achievement is a reflection of the sector’s growing recognition as a vital part of Australia’s economy and is the result of relentless work, including meetings with the Department of Home Affairs, consultations with ministers, and a strategic partnership with COSBOA (Council of Small Business Organisations Australia).
This success comes at a time of unprecedented progress for our industry, marking another defining chapter in a year filled with groundbreaking achievements for beauty and aesthetics professionals.
The journey: from overlooked to recognised
Until now, beauty therapy had been absent from skilled migration lists, leaving businesses struggling to recruit talented therapists. The old system was rigid and outdated, with fragmented occupation lists that failed to reflect modern labour market needs. This created a significant barrier for employers seeking international talent to meet demand in clinics, salons, and spas across the country.
The introduction of the new CSOL has changed the landscape. Replacing the outdated, overly complex system, the CSOL consolidates 456 occupations into a single list informed by real labour market analysis, stakeholder feedback and input from peak industry bodies such as ABIC.
This reform brings clarity and flexibility to Australia’s skilled migration framework and positions beauty therapy alongside other essential professions.
Why this matters for the beauty industry
For beauty therapists, this is a game-changing development. Being on the CSOL means access to the Skills in Demand Visa, which replaced the Temporary Skill Shortage (subclass 482) visa in December 2024. This visa enables skilled professionals to work in Australia and contribute to our vibrant and growing industry.
Moreover, the CSOL is a pathway to the Employer Nomination Scheme (subclass 186) visa, providing
an avenue for beauty therapists to achieve permanent residency. This is not just an opportunity for individuals—it’s a boon for the businesses they’ll join, bringing stability to their teams and ensuring access to world-class talent.
For employers, the implications are equally profound. Businesses that have struggled to find local talent can now sponsor overseas professionals, addressing workforce shortages and driving growth. The streamlined CSOL makes the sponsorship process easier, removing much of the red tape that has historically deterred employers from accessing skilled migration.
A victory for advocacy and collaboration
Securing beauty therapy’s inclusion on the CSOL is no accident. It is the result of years of determined advocacy by ABIC. For the past three years we have worked tirelessly to elevate the industry’s profile, especially with government, holding countless meetings with policymakers, submitting detailed recommendations, and presenting a unified voice for beauty and aesthetics professionals.
Our collaboration with COSBOA has been pivotal. By working together, we’ve ensured that small business voices were heard, and the critical role of beauty therapists in Australia’s economy was recognised.
This achievement is a testament to the power of collective action and what we can accomplish when we stand together as an industry.
A year of unprecedented progress
This victory is part of a larger story of transformation for our industry in the last 12 months. From the ABS ANZSCO review to the establishment of the ABIC SelfRegulation Committee and Education Committee, and our groundbreaking work on education reform with SASCA, 2024 was a year of monumental progress.
We are laying the foundation for a brighter, more professional future for beauty and aesthetics. But it’s important to remember that these achievements have not come easily—they are the result of countless hours of work, determination, collaboration, and the unwavering support of our members.
We need your support to keep moving forward
While we celebrate this success, it is also a call to action. None of this progress would have been possible without the support of our members. Your membership fuels our advocacy, funds our projects, and amplifies our voice.
But our work is far from over. To continue making an impact, to secure even greater recognition, resources, and opportunities for our industry we urgently need more members. Every new member strengthens our ability to represent and protect the interests of beauty professionals and businesses across Australia.
A
future of opportunity
The inclusion of beauty therapy on the CSOL is more than just a policy change, it is a symbol of the value and potential of our industry. It reflects the essential contributions beauty therapists make to Australia’s economy, their role in the lives of millions, and their place in shaping the future of wellness, confidence, and self-care. Together, we have proven that change is possible. With your support, ABIC will continue to drive progress, break down barriers, and create opportunities for beauty professionals at every level.
This is our time to shine. Let’s seize it.
We urge you to join ABIC today and be part of the movement shaping the future of beauty and aesthetics in Australia. Visit www.theabic.org.au/memberships to join or find out more. ■
THREE TECHNOLOGIES IN ONE DEVICE FAT l MUSCLE l SKIN & CELLULITE
REACH UP TO 100,000 CONTRACTIONS PER SESSION
HAPPY TEAM = HAPPY CLIENTS
Liz McKeon advises it’s time to get focused on employee wellness.
YOUR SALON business may pride itself on being a good employer. But, even with the best of intentions, you could be hurting employees’ health and wellbeing because of the way work is organised. Working conditions and demands of the work environment are a significant stress for many staff members, and research has found that the design of work can have a substantial effect on employee wellbeing and health.
The good news is that there are ways to redesign work to support wellbeing and yield long-term benefits to the salon. An easy starting point is to consider introducing some of the following:
1
Give team members more control over how they manage their workload. Even relatively small changes in staff autonomy can make a difference in employee wellbeing. For example, giving more training so staff can take on new tasks and improve customer service will improve performance on the job and increase pride in their role.
2 Increase the stability of employee’s schedules. Erratic, unpredictable schedules make it difficult for staff to manage their personal lives and family responsibilities. Improving scheduling stability will increase productivity for the salon and for the employees, as this added stability improves quality of sleep and reduces stress, which can only have a positive impact on your business.
3
Provide employees with opportunities to identify and solve workplace problems. Giving your team members the chance to participate in salon improvements can be an effective approach to fostering their wellbeing. Employees who are included in problem solving as a group are more likely to stay in your business, which is a key benefit for salons trying to retain valuable employees.
6
“EMPLOYEES WHO ARE INCLUDED IN PROBLEM SOLVING AS A GROUP ARE MORE LIKELY TO STAY IN YOUR BUSINESS.”
employees are appreciative of the support and employers also benefit, because staff have higher job satisfaction, better job performance and are less interested in leaving their jobs because they feel valued and needed.
Take steps to foster a sense of social belonging among employees. Creating a work culture in which employees can develop supportive relationships with their colleagues can be an important strategy for increasing worker wellbeing. The T.E.A.M. (together everyone achieves more) concept is very powerful because when team members work together, for the good of all, the good of the salon and its clients, everyone is happier and achieves more - personally and for the business. Simply put, working together works!
4
5
Keep your salon adequately staffed, so workloads are reasonable. High work demands, if long-term, can take a substantial toll on employee health and wellbeing.
Encourage your manager to support employee’s personal needs during personal crisis times. At some point, most employees will have extra personal challenges, such as also being caregivers for children or elderly parents. They benefit from supervisors who are more supportive of the challenges they face in trying to balance their work and personal lives. Of course, this is challenging in a salon environment, but research continually shows that
Sometimes, it is as simpler as learning more about the people you work with, and sometimes it’s more complicated. But the bottom line is: it is almost impossible to have a financially successful salon without a happy team working together. In other words, it’s less ‘me’ and more ‘we’.
UK’s Liz McKeon is the Salon Business Expert. She is the ‘go to’ person for business development, assisting businesses to reach their full financial potential in the hair, beauty and spa sectors. Learn more at www.lizmckeon.com. ■
Photography: iStock/Igor Alecsander
TERRI VINSON JONES TOOK ON THE BOOMING BEAUTY INDUSTRY
OF THE MID-2000S. SHE SHARES WHAT SHE GOT RIGHT
Over 20 years ago, the beauty industry was a very different place. Many skin clinics were looking for evidence-based and resultsdriven ranges with very little choice. AHA’s and ceramides were all the rage and apart from prescription retinoids, there was very little on the market that could work in the deeper layers of the skin.
There was also a massive opportunity for educating people about what they were putting on their skin and why they needed it. As a cosmetic chemist with a background in human biology and formulating chemistry, a maturing woman and a mum of young kids, I looked at the market and couldn’t find anything that I needed. So, like many entrepreneurs, I thought, “I can’t find it, so I’ll create it!” My vision was clear: empower people to make better skincare choices with transparency and science-backed products that worked.
VISION A R Y
When I first started, I had a small Melbourne skin clinic where I sold my skincare products. I was responsible for formulating and consulting, and I had a wonderful team to perform the skin treatments and aesthetic services. When the 2008 GFC hit, my products were still selling, even when my clients could no longer afford the treatments. So, I sold my equipment, gifted my database to a local skin clinic (good karma) and set up my own lab in Burwood. That was my fork in the road moment, it was about understanding my true value and purpose, which was to formulate highly effective skincare.
Then came the decision to seek relationships with future Australian stockists and distributors. It was a huge leap out of my comfort zone, stepping into a whole new world selling my formulations to savvy skin professionals. I quickly realised how essential those relationships were to become. These stockists became the backbone of my business. They helped bring Synergie Skin to life and I will always be inspired by and eternally grateful to them. I would not be here today without their commitment and passion.
I’m proud to say we’ve been at the forefront of providing skincare solutions backed by science and transparency that deliver visible results. I coined the term Clean Science almost 18 years ago and it has been my philosophy ever since. It’s about combining the best of science and nature to create ethical, transparent, and sustainable skincare. It’s not about fear-mongering or avoiding certain ingredients for the sake of marketing. It’s about being clear on what goes into our products and why.
Sustainability is a huge part of that; sometimes synthetics are actually purer and more sustainable than natural ingredients because they’re produced in laboratory conditions without depleting resources. Education has always been critical, empowering both customers and stockists to make informed decisions. I am extremely intentional about every ingredient in my lab, and if there is any smoldering negative evidence about a particular ingredient, I will source the best alternative. Above all, authenticity has kept us grounded, ensuring every choice aligns with our core values.
We also consistently receive great feedback that Synergie Skin bridges the gap between highly effective products which are a joy to use. I think elegance comes from being a female scientist and my love of the daily ritual of applying my skincare, pairing efficacy with a beautiful skin feel and scent. We also go beyond the skindeep results. We believe in educating our customers, so they understand not only what they’re using, but why it works. These factors really set Synergie Skin apart from our competitors.
COVID today feels like reflecting on a bad dream for the world and our beauty industry. We’ve always had complete control over formulating and manufacturing quality, with everything made in our Melbourne lab. Following the official lockdown announcement, I spent an entire weekend sourcing grain-based ethanol. I formulated a WHO approved hand sanitiser that Sunday, and the following week my lab began producing sanitiser for our stockists, hospitals, and aged care homes. That flexibility has been a game-changer, especially when the world was turned upside down.
During the lockdowns, we also launched the Synergie Skin Academy, an online resource to educate and support our stockists. The feedback was so positive, and it really solidified the trust we’ve built with our stockists over the years. We’ve always embraced a mindset of continuous improvement - listening to what our customers are telling us and adjusting as needed. COVID really put that value to the test. Through all these moments, I’ve stayed true to my commitment to creating skincare that not only works but also educates, empowers and engenders true confidence. The journey was not without challenges, but as a team, we faced them head-on, always staying solution-focused and keeping our core values at frontof-mind. It’s a reminder that when you stay focused on what truly matters, being passionate about what you do, building relationships, staying authentic, and adapting to change - the results will follow.
2024 saw a major milestone with the launch of our SynTernals supplement range. While Synergie Skin has always focused on our external skin health to nurture inner confidence, SynTernals focuses on health, vitality, and confidence from the inside-out. The beauty and wellness space is rapidly evolving, with many now recognising that our industry isn’t just about appearance, it’s also about healthspan and vitality that radiate from deep within. Our first product, NRgize+, has already made waves as a multi-level NAD+ booster, supporting energy, vitality and mitochondrial function from the inside out.
But we’re just getting started. 2025 will see the expansion of the SynTernals range, with more exciting launches, including AlgOmega-3 - a vegan omega-3 supplement that will continue to revolutionise holistic wellness. Synergie Skin also has some exciting skincare launches lined up including two new trailblazing formulations. I am so thrilled to bring them to my stockists and their clients as they have come with years of research and development.
And this year is especially exciting - it marks Synergie Skin’s 20th anniversary! Can you believe it? As I reflect on the journey, celebrating all we’ve achieved as a team, I am grateful for the mistakes I have learnt from, for the opportunities I have been given, for the team that took Synergie to where it is today, and for the incredible stockists and clients that put their trust in our brand. We’ve come a long way in the least two decades and what a ride it’s been so far. I can’t wait to see what the next chapter holds. ■
To learn if Synergie Skin and SynTernals are the right choices for your beauty or aesthetics business, visit www.synergieskin.com.
ON NEUTRAL GROUND
&
Photography: Brandee Meier
Teen Skincare: HOW TO EMBRACE THE EVOLUTION
WHETHER THEY’RE storming the shelves of Sephora or sharing skincare rituals via social media, teenagers and pre-teens are enthralled by the world of beauty. It’s a global sensation, with Americanbased researchers The Benchmarking Company reporting in August 2024 that 76% of parents of girls aged between 7 and 17 claim their children have developed a “morning and night” skincare routine. One scroll through TikTok reaffirms the findings. As clips of fresh-faced youngsters applying products run rife, a slightly deeper dive may also unearth the term ‘prejuvenation’, referring to the delay of visible signs of aging. The buzzword went mainstream on the social media platform thanks to the avalanche of posts that disclosed product ingredients lists and personal skincare regimens. Prejuvenation fascination sparked a buying frenzy, with 79% of those children surveyed reporting that they’ve asked mum or dad to buy them a product they’ve seen on social media.
As Gen Z and Gen Alpha’s fascination with skincare swells and beauty buying starts earlier than ever, Kristie Lau-Adams explores how businesses can responsibly lean into a global phenomenon.
Agile beauty brands have seized the concept of prejuvenation, recognising that teenagers and tweens should not be limited in alleviating their unique skincare concerns. Dermalogica training expert, Dennille Ludenau says the youth market deserved increased attention which contributed to the launch of Dermalogica’s first dedicated line for teenagers, Clear Start. “There wasn’t a professional skincare line for teen skin that respected the skin’s protective barrier and was free of artificial colours and fragrance,” Dennille says. “Most teen products contained ingredients that could cause irritation.”
Teen market dissatisfaction was also a driver for Omorfi Active Skin Care CEO and founder, Ang Domagala, who says healthy skincare practices can be cemented during these formidable years. The brand’s Back to Basic range is tailored for young skin in addition to adult use. “We felt we could help younger people develop the good habits of cleansing, exfoliating, protecting and hydrating,” Ang says. “We wanted teenagers to have access to skincare designed just for them.”
Co-founder of Lana Banana, Lana Sayah adds that Gen Z consumers are also deeply committed to ethically sound products, which were also scarcely available previously. “Lana Banana uses cruelty-free, clean formulations that avoid unnecessary additives,” Lana says. “It aligns with the values of teens who want skincare they can trust and feel good about using.”
“RATHER THAN VEER AWAY FROM THE MOVEMENT, WHICH IS OFTEN CRITICISED BY BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS, SOME ARE INSTEAD EMBRACING THIS EMERGING DEMOGRAPHIC WITH TAILORED SERVICES DESIGNED TO ATTRACT TEENS IN DROVES. ”
Lana Banana is one of a slew of doctor-founded skincare brands that have emerged in Australia of late. Sayah’s fellow co-founder is her uncle, Dr Joseph Hkeik from the All Saint Clinic Group in Sydney’s Double Bay. He says that young skin can raise distinct issues that should be professionally managed. “Teenagers often face unique skincare challenges due to hormonal changes, which can increase oil production and affect skin health,” Dr Joseph says, pinpointing acne, oily skin, sensitivity and redness among the challenges. “Understanding these common concerns can help teens choose products tailored to their specific needs, ideally focusing on gentle, non-irritating formulations that support overall skin health.”
A relentless thirst to treat young skin is pushing beyond store shelves. Rather than veer away from the movement, which is often criticised by beauty professionals, some are instead embracing this emerging demographic with tailored services designed to attract teens in droves. Skin therapist, Paris Schofield from Select Skin in Sydney’s Coogee says the clinic’s Teen Facial Cleanse was born out of their adult clients’ frequent enquiries regarding their kids’ skin. “Many parents struggle to understand how skincare products can meet teenage needs without causing damage,” Paris says. “Our treatment focuses on deep cleansing, gentle exfoliation, and light hydration to keep skin clear without overloading it with products or unnecessary steps.”
The cleanse utilises Synergie Skin and Environ products, with active ingredients limited to salicylic or lactic acid if required. Meanwhile, up north, Pure Indulgence, a family-owned company with 12 salons across Southeast Queensland, offers a 40-minute Pro Teen Facial which utilises Dermalogica products in tackling breakouts, specifically. Risha Amin from its head office says the facial involves a pre-treatment skin analysis which also discusses ongoing maintenance. “We want teenagers to feel comfortable in their own skin always and a focus on posttreatment home care will help them achieve this,” Risha says.
Harmony Beauty and Day Spa, a Brisbane-based salon, is also tapping into the trend by offering two styles of teenage-targeted facials. Managing Director, Liz McGowan says talking to existing adult customers about their child’s concerns has opened the door to this booming demographic. Enhancing a salon or clinic’s online presence is also highly recommended. “You want it to be something they can find online, whether on social media or on a website,” Liz says. “Highlight
3 PRO-APPROVED TEEN SKINCARE RECOMMENDATIONS:
1. Clear Start by Dermalogica Breakout Clearing Foaming Wash Dermalogica 02 8437 9600 2. Omorfi Back to Basic Pink Clay Mask Omorfi www.omorfi.com.au
3. Lana Banana The Protective Moisturiser Lana Banana www.lanabanana.co
single products that offer an accessible entry point and affordable price.”
For business owners who may feel reluctant in targeting the youth market, Liz and her expert team suggest considering a basic teen skincare consultation service to help youngsters feel comfortable in pursuing treatments. She explains, “take them on the journey of skincare treatments and products to help show this market just what’s possible.” ■
Sculpture FOR THE SKIN
A powerful HIIT class for the face, April Brodie’s Golki Fusion Facial is one for the history books, writes Hannah Gay.
THE MORNING I strolled up the winding steps of Double Bay’s Intercontinental Hotel, little did I know what to expect. After all, I was catching up with April Brodie - one of the country’s most respected integrated facialists - so as far as I could tell, I’d be in for a treat. April had introduced me to buccal several years prior, kicking off my love-affair with the now highly in-demand treatment. On this day, she would introduce me to yet another emerging facial, mastered exclusively by April herself and performed by her hands only.
Golki, a term akin to Korean massage therapy, is a practice dating back 50 years. According to April, the therapy involves stimulating the bones and fascia to promote better blood circulation and activate the cells responsible for maintaining youthful skin. She described it as “bone therapy”, in which “acupressure and manual sculpting are incorporated to fortify the skin's foundation, boost collagen production naturally, and enhance the skin's innate resilience and glow”.
The two-hour long treatment, I discover, is multifaceted; so much so, it’s hard to keep up with each step performed. April refers to her protocol as providing “fullspectrum care” to the skin, “nourished from the inside out, aligning outer beauty with the body's internal balance - unlike some localised methods which may focus more heavily on surface-level treatments alone”.
“Golki Fusion Facial massage is renowned for its deep-seated internal benefits. It significantly boosts blood circulation, effectively reducing puffiness and promoting a more lifted facial appearance. This enhanced circulation leads to improved skin tone with an incredible glow and plumpness, resulting in a healthier, brighter complexion from within,” April describes. “Beyond physical improvements, Golki Fusion Massage targets the deeper layers of facial muscles, providing profound relaxation.”
April spent nearly four years mastering her latest treatment, travelling around the world for various training. The creation of Golki Fusion ultimately ended her hunt for “the final piece of the puzzle”, she told me. “While I had a good treatment, it wasn’t amazing; something was missing. I wanted to bring a unique, enriched experience to my clients. Everywhere I turned, there was Korea—Rationale had been purchased 49% by Amore Pacific (Korean company), Korean culture was all over my Netflix, and more of my clients were experimenting with Korean products. I knew it was more than a fad; it felt like a sign to go.”
“Fascinated by the Golki technique for years,” April finally took the plunge and ventured to Korea to undertake training locally. She admittedly knew little about the treatment itself (Koreans don’t use Google as their search engine, so sourcing any relevant information proved near futile). She managed to source a tutor, and paid a hefty fee for the week-long course. Koreans take a rigorous approach to beauty, she shared, with many seeking invasive surgeries to craft the face of their dreams. But in a bid to achieve the perfect V jawline and contoured cheeks, many are turning their attention to rigorous facial massage to achieve the desired effect. “The training taught me that Korean beauty philosophy seamlessly integrates holistic and traditional techniques with advanced modern practices for a comprehensive skincare approach.” And while accurate, April’s version has been made bespoke to her.
The treatment involves five cleanses (the fifth is reserved for the removal of eye makeup alone) each removed with a faintly scented hot towel. For two hours, April moved without break, dancing her hands in a rhythmic movement from my face to my chest, along my upper back, pulling back up to the face. Pace builds, moving from languid sweeps using single digits, to then cupping muscles and fascia by the handful, twisting and turning through weaves of facial nerves like a harpist. I swallow repetitively, as lymph fluid moves through the face and down my throat. Mid-way, I notice the onset of rest - so relaxed is my body as my face and neck take the heat. Eventually, I stir myself awake as April’s tempo moves into deeper lymphatic massage. Her fingers clasp along my upper cheek muscles to further fuel the lift. April
interchanges hot and cold, placing cooling eye masks under a heated sheet mask (an AB signature).
A granular peel mask - or ‘Herbal Glow Mask’ - was applied. And while not a peel in the traditional sense, April refers to this a “hybrid product” and “unlike anything else available”. The mask contains over 30 Korean medicinal herbs to hydrate the skin and fuel it with antibacterial properties. It delivers a very light exfoliation, suitable for even damaged skin barriers. “It enhances the skin’s texture, preparing it to absorb the deep benefits of the Golki technique more efficiently, delivering that signature Golki Fusion Glow!”
The treatment also uses the S Serum - a product developed by international facialist, Sophie Carbonari. “I was delighted when Sophie approached me for this exclusive partnership. It was a match made in heaven—a luxurious plant-based serum made in Korea by renowned skincare experts. Often called the 'little black dress' of serums, S Serum seamlessly fits into my treatments and enhances every step, from the massage to the final touch. Its innovative formula addresses the skin’s needs on multiple fronts: antioxidation, even tone, adaptogen support, and essential hydration.”
Between sessions, April prioritses unwinding with brief meditative practices and gentle hand exercises “to maintain my energy and dexterity.” She also believes in keeping hydrated and maintaining a balanced diet for consistent stamina.
April charges $700 for the blissful treatment - a figure, believe it or, I encouraged she raises, agreeing that there is a growing category of wellness experiences. “Integrating wellness practices elevate a facial from a routine treatment to a holistic experience that nourishes both the skin and the soul. It’s about offering clients a sanctuary where they can rejuvenate not just their complexion, but their overall wellbeing.” With Golki Fusion, I was lucky enough to receive the best of both worlds. ■
Photography: Supplied
PAUL FISTER DOESN’T FOLLOW SKINCARE TRENDS. HE LEADS THEM
Here’s what the OmniDerm founder has gained from this approach.
When I decided to get into cosmetics I wanted to make sure I didn’t go for another ‘me too’ product. To be honest, being male I was sceptical. Skin creams? Bleh.
In my research I came across a German publication called ‘Skin Care Forum’. An expert stated that ‘a water-in-oil emulsion provides better care for the skin than an oil-in-water emulsion’. This statement got me curious, so I went looking for a supplier of oil-based creams. This proved to be a difficult task. Eventually I came across it via a boutique skin care provider, Doctor Horst Spiller in Bavaria.
Dr. Spiller’s explanation about water-based creams and their effect on the skin made it clear that I had truly stumbled onto something unique; something I could promote with pride. Our initial experience in our own salons and the positive reaction of our clients in Melbourne were our proof of concept.
I started OmniDerm in 1996. I hadn’t realised that a powerful new trend was in its early days: anti-aging skincare based on AHAs. It became clear very quickly that Australian beauty therapists were not really interested in our philosophy and our products, so I needed something to compete with the promised ‘anti-aging’ benefits of cosmeceuticals.
My lucky break - or strike of serendipity - came via a brochure on herbal peeling. At first, I didn’t believe the before-and-after results shown were plausible. On further thought, it became clear I could complement the treatment with Dr Spiller’s Biomimetic Skincare. Herbal Peeling provided rapid correction of all manner of skin concerns including anti-aging, and Dr. Spiller provided prevention, and to assist the skin in gaining and maintaining homeostasis, its healthy balance. I correctly saw this as a truly powerful combination.
Keeping my eye close on developments, I read literature that raised serious questions about the daily application of products containing AHAs. By 2009, I confidently published an article in Professional Beauty titled ‘The Dark Side of Acids’ where I explained some of the concerns being raised by scientists at that time.
VISION
a. Dehydration: as explained, leading to b. Inflammation: as explained by authors such as Carl Thornfeldt, MD and Mark Lees, PhD, leading to c. Oxidation: i.e. the formation of free radicals that will damage collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
None of OmniDerm’s product lines cause chronic inflammation because we do not work with modalities that are designed to continuously exfoliate or speed up the cycle of skin renewal. Dr. Spiller’s biomimetic creams are very effective at preventing dehydration of the skin. I know of two scientific tests comparing water-based and oil-based skincare, both of which found that oil-based creams offer superior and much longer lasting hydration of the skin.
The herbal C Peel (C = Corrective) WILL lead to inflammation, as does any other in-clinic treatment designed to signal a difference in the skin. This inflammation is of the acute type – the body’s short-term response to insult or injury. The process of skin renewal with the C Peel lasts five days. Photographs show that on day five the new skin is calm and healthy-looking. The process of acute inflammation has done its job before it could turn to chronic inflammation. This is a very important distinction.
“THE PRODUCTION OF OIL-BASED CREAMS IS MORE EXPENSIVE AND MORE LABOUR INTENSIVE THAN WATER-BASED CREAMS. IT TOOK MANY YEARS TO CREATE A FORMULATION THAT IS NOT ONLY ACCEPTABLE BUT WELCOMED BY THE CONSUMER.”
Whilst acids remain popular, we have seen increased interest in subjects such as the dangers of inflammation, the importance of the skin’s hydro-lipidic barrier, hydration of the skin and the skin’s microbiome. Despite raising these concerns since pre-2000, it’s only now we see trends moving in our direction.
Fundamentally it’s not about treating skin inflammation. It’s about creating an environment conducive to healthy skin, and about avoiding products, ingredients and processes that lead to inflammation. The two main causes of inflammation are:
1. Ongoing daily exfoliation that compromises the skin barrier. No matter how hard the skin works, it will never reach the healthy balance it strives for, and 2. Dehydration of the skin. Dehydration can lead to inflammation. Years ago, I was writing articles about the dangers of the ‘DIO Triangle’ - my personal invention. This refers to how dehydration of the skin will lead to damage and premature aging:
In my case it would have been much easier to find another range based on AHAs, allowing us to rise with the tide of cosmeceuticals. Instead we have focused on educating skin therapists on the benefits of being gentle with our skin, of focusing on hydration and the health of the skin barrier, and on the importance of a balanced microbiome.
I can truly say that both Dr. Horst Spiller and I took the high road. The production of oil-based creams is more expensive and more labour intensive than water-based creams. It took many years to create a formulation that is not only acceptable but welcomed by the consumer. Dr. Spiller clearly wasn’t primarily driven by making money, but was an idealist, looking to find the best solution for the care of his clients’ skins. ■
To learn if OmniDerm is the right choice for your beauty or aesthetics business, visit www.omniderm.com.au.
THE BENEFITS OF BRINGING ON A QUALIFIED DERMAL THERAPIST
Two aesthetic businesses share their experiences.
For how long has INJXU offered an in-house skin specialist?
Director at INJXU Cosmetics, Laurisa Dannoun: “INJXU has proudly provided the expertise of an in-house skin specialist for one year, reinforcing our dedication to delivering comprehensive and tailored skincare solutions for our clients.”
Is Elle your only in-house skin specialist? How regularly is she in clinic?
“Yes, Elle* is our sole in-house skin specialist and she is available full-time. This ensures our clients have consistent and immediate access to her specialised knowledge and services.”
What do you look for when hiring a dermal therapist?
“When selecting a dermal therapist, we prioritise extensive expertise in skin science, alongside the ability to think innovatively when developing customised treatment plans. This ensures that each patient receives personalised and effective care.”
Describe the function of the INJXU dermal therapist.
“The role of our dermal therapist is pivotal. They conduct advanced skin treatments that not only enhance the effectiveness of injectable procedures, but also contribute significantly to the overall health and appearance of our clients' skin.”
Describe the process of working in tandem with Elle—do you often refer each other to your clients?
“We adopt a holistic approach to patient care, where each individual is assessed for both skin health and injectable needs. This collaborative model allows for seamless referrals between Elle and myself, ensuring that all aspects of a patient's concerns are comprehensively addressed.”
What are the benefits to clients of hiring an in-house dermal therapist to complement your nurse-led team?
“Clients benefit immensely from the integrated care model we offer, as it allows for a thorough and coordinated approach to their aesthetic concerns. By addressing both skincare and injectable needs within the same team, we achieve superior outcomes and enhanced client satisfaction.”
Do you foresee that clinics that offer an in-house dermal therapist are better placed versus a clinic that offers little-to-no skincare guidance?
“Absolutely. Clinics that incorporate an in-house dermal therapist are distinctly better positioned in today’s competitive landscape. They provide comprehensive skincare guidance, fostering trust and delivering exceptional results. This holistic approach aligns with the growing consumer expectation for integrated and informed aesthetic care.”
For how long has Contour Clinics offered an in-house skin specialist?
Chief of Staff at Contour Clinics, Sophie Guenanain: “Since 2016, Contour Clinics has provided expert in-house skin specialists, establishing us as pioneers in comprehensive aesthetic care. Our team comprises 13 highly experienced senior dermal therapists and clinicians across seven locations, ensuring expert care is always accessible.”
What do you look for when hiring a dermal therapist?
“We seek exceptional professionals who can demonstrate advanced qualifications and proven experience, a deep understanding of skin anatomy and conditions, precision and attention to detail, outstanding communication skills, genuine commitment to client care, strong team focus and adaptability, and professional excellence.”
Describe the function of the Contour Clinics dermal therapist.
“Our dermal therapists are experts in delivering transformative skin solutions through comprehensive skin consultations and personalised treatment planning, advanced treatments including cutting-edge laser technology, RF microneedling, chemical peels, IPL, and medical-grade skincare, detailed client education and ongoing support, understand rigorous safety protocols and sterile practices, and [to undertake] regular professional development to stay at the forefront of skincare innovation.”
What benefits do clients receive from having an in-house dermal therapist alongside doctors and nurses?
“Our integrated approach combines the expertise of dermal therapists with our medical team, delivering superior results through seamlessly coordinated treatment plans to keep clients looking five to seven years younger throughout their journey. Their role can enhance injectable results through optimal skin preparation, provide expert management of skin concerns before and after procedures, conduct comprehensive aftercare, offer personalised skincare recommendations including those from our in-house Ilumae Skincare range, and ensure higher client satisfaction and longer-lasting results.”
Are clinics with in-house dermal therapists better positioned than those without?
“Absolutely. Our integrated approach offers significant advantages, including superior treatment outcomes through comprehensive care, distinctive expertise in both clinical treatments and skin health, strong, ongoing client relationships, trusted reputation for excellence, and better long-term results through continuous care.” ■
*Surname not disclosed
IS SPF 15 DAY CREAM ENOUGH FOR DAILY USE?
By Lydia Jordane, founder of LYCON.
Sunscreen is an important part of everyday life for young and old to safeguard our skin against sun damage, skin cancer and premature aging. The Australian climatic conditions are particularly damaging, considering our active outdoor lifestyle and long summer. This makes it extra important to use a suitable sunscreen daily. However, it is not all about sunscreens, it is also important to use products that contain other vital ingredients that contribute towards combating free radical and pollution damage, to fortify the skin against regular chronological aging.
According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, regular daily use of SPF 15 can significantly reduce the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by 40% and it can lower the risk of melanoma by 50%. Using an SPF 15 sunscreen or day cream, with broad spectrum UVA/UVB coverage, combined with scientifically advanced active ingredients is an excellent way to help prevent skin aging and minimise wrinkle formation, skin sagging and dark spots.
It can be tempting to think a higher SPF is always better, however an SPF 15 day cream that contains an array of protective ingredients can be a good choice for everyday situations for multiple reasons:
VISION A R Y
• Excellent UV blocking performance: SPF 15 filters out approximately 93.33% of UVB rays, the primary cause of sunburn. This level of protection is sufficient for most everyday activities. If spending more than incidental time outside in the middle of the day, then a higher SPF product should be considered. However, for everyday use, SPF 15 is an excellent choice. (For comparison, SPF 30 blocks 96.67% of UVB rays and the additional UVB blocking gets increasingly marginal, e.g. SPF 50 blocks 98.00% of UVB rays).
• Prevents premature aging: Sun damage is a major contributor to wrinkles, fine lines and age spots. Consistent use of SPF 15 helps maintains a youthful appearance. One should also consider using a day cream with antioxidant protection in addition to UV filters, as antioxidants give an additional layer of anti-aging protection. LYCON Skin Multi-Protection Day Cream SPF 15 has a hardworking array of antioxidants, including Yeast Beta-Glucan, Kakadu Plum, Vitamin E and Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone (found naturally in grains of paradise, a spice from the ginger family). In addition, it contains a special Butterfly Ginger extract to help fight damaging urban pollution.
• Lightweight and comfortable: SPF 15 sunscreens typically have a lighter texture, making them ideal for daily wear without feeling greasy or heavy. This is a major factor behind SPF 15 being a sensible choice for everyday use and often more suitable to use under makeup. Not only will SPF 15 offer you the protection you need on a normal day (i.e. a day with no prolonged outdoor exposure), but the more elegant sensory characteristics of SPF 15, compared to SPF 30+ products, means that we are much more likely to use it every day, which is how its full benefits are achieved over time.
To learn if LYCON Skin is the right choice for your beauty or aesthetics business, call 07 3004 6200 or visit www.lycon.com.au.
*Green A, Williams G, Neale R, et al. Daily sunscreen application and betacarotene supplementation in prevention of basal-cell and squamous-cell carcinomas of the skin: a randomized controlled trial. The Lancet 1999; 354(9180):723-729.
A STATE-BY-STATE GUIDE TO COSMETIC LASER REGULATIONS IN AUSTRALIA
THINKING ABOUT offering laser treatments like tattoo removal, hair removal, or skin rejuvenation? Here’s a heads-up: laser use in Australia isn’t as simple as flipping a switch. Each state has its own regulations, with requirements determined by location, laser type, and operator qualifications.
We spoke to Nancy Abdou, CEO and Head Educator of The Australian Dermal and Laser Institute (TADLI) and twice-crowned ABIA Educator of the Year, to clarify what you need to know about state-specific regulations. Nancy shares insights on training, certification, and compliance to help you confidently navigate the requirements for safe practice.
A state-by-state system
"Laser regulation in Australia is entirely state-specific," Nancy explains, clearing up any assumptions of federal oversight. Each state handles laser training requirements differently, making it essential for treatment providers to understand what’s required in their region for compliance and client safety. Here’s the rundown:
Queensland requires operators to complete an approved laser safety course, gain a trainee license, and log 25 supervised hours with a licensed mentor before going solo. After the initial trainee period, operators need further (logged) training based on their chosen treatments, from tattoo removal to skin rejuvenation.
Western Australia takes it further, mandating at least 100 hours of hands-on practice, half of which must be specific to the procedure. Operators must also apply for a license from the Radiological Council, and particular procedures require medical supervision.
Tasmania also maintains rigorous guidelines. Operators must complete a recognised laser safety course and obtain a trainee license. They must log
25 hours of supervised practical training, specifically in laser hair removal, and pass a competency assessment before treating independently.
Meanwhile, New South Wales, Victoria, and South Australia are more lenient. Laser safety training is encouraged but not compulsory, though specific councils or insurers may still require certification, particularly for complex treatments.
Formal licensing isn't mandatory in the ACT and Northern Territory, but safety training is encouraged. “Many operators here opt for additional certifications to boost client confidence,” Nancy adds.
The rules for laser hair removal and tattoo removal differ, mainly because of the complexity and risks associated with each. Given its higher risks, laser tattoo removal is held to stricter standards.
Nancy explains, “In several states, including QLD and WA, laser tattoo removal must often be performed under medical supervision or at least have a medical practitioner available for oversight. This requirement reflects the higher risks and the potential for severe adverse reactions.”
most comprehensive scope due to their medical background, often facing fewer restrictions. Nurses can operate lasers under medical supervision, while dermal clinicians with a degree in Health Science are usually permitted to use lasers independently, though state-specific licenses may still apply.
It’s more complex for beauty therapists. In most states, they can perform basic treatments like hair removal and laser rejuvenation but often face restrictions on more advanced or ablative procedures unless they pursue additional qualifications.
Nancy shares that some insurance companies require beauty therapists to complete manufacturer training or laser safety courses to meet professional standards, even in less regulated states. “It’s up to practitioners and clinic owners to be aware of any state updates. Compliance means your team is prepared, and your clients are safe,” she adds.
Special considerations for skin rejuvenation lasers
“IT’S UP TO PRACTITIONERS AND CLINIC OWNERS TO BE AWARE OF ANY STATE UPDATES. COMPLIANCE MEANS YOUR TEAM IS PREPARED, AND YOUR CLIENTS ARE SAFE.”
She emphasises that treatment providers should always follow national standards and workplace safety regulations. "It’s still crucial to complete a laser safety course to ensure adherence to best practices and safety guidelines,” Nancy stresses.
What you can and can’t do
Nancy explains that the type of practitioner also plays a role in determining what treatments they can perform. Dermatologists generally have the
Skin rejuvenation lasers fall into their own category. Ablative lasers require advanced training and certification, and operators in Queensland, WA, and Tasmania require logged, supervised hours in addition to course completion.
Nancy points out, “Ablative lasers are regulated more stringently than non-ablative lasers due to their higher risk profiles.” Practitioners must understand the risks and know how to handle complications should they arise.
TADLI’s advice for keeping compliant
In our ever-evolving industry, Nancy emphasises the importance of staying abreast of changes and building strong ties with industry associations. "Compliance isn’t just about ticking boxes; it’s about safeguarding clients and delivering quality care,” she explains.
For Nancy, continuous professional development is key. “Ideally, your certifications should be renewed every 2-3 years,” she advises. She notes that tailored programs like those offered at The Australian Dermal and Laser Institute keep skills sharp, knowledge current and supports better treatment outcomes.
Navigating laser regulations might seem complex, but staying informed and prioritising training can make it manageable. With guidance from experts like Nancy, clinics can focus on what they do best: delivering outstanding results, one confident client at a time.
Disclaimer: Information provided in this article reflects regulations as at November 2024. Readers are encouraged to monitor any changes to regulations as per their state. ■
T E CH TR E ND: HAIR REMOVAL DEVICES
Fotona AvalancheLase, Innovative Medical Technologies, sales@innovative.com.au
Combining 755 nm Alexandrite and 1064 nm Nd:YAG wavelengths, AvalancheLase delivers consecutive pulses up to 30 mm in diameter.
Allux Dual, Esthetica Academy, 1300 624 703
Allux Dual comes complete with userfriendly interface and a six-year device warranty.
DiolazeXL, InMode Australia, 02 7209 5678
Utilises a 810 nm Diode laser wavelength to treat a full set of legs in under 30 minutes.
GLX Delivery System for the GentleMax Pro Plus device, Candela Medical, 1300 226 335 Speed up treatments by up to 21%, reduce time between clients by up to 81%, and improve overall client satisfaction with GentleMax Pro Plus’ latest add-on.
Again PRO, High Tech Medical, 1300 309 233
The world’s only FDAapproved Alexandrite laser for skin types 1 – 6, the Again PRO combines two complementary wavelengths: 755 nm Alexandrite and 1064 nm Nd:YAG.
Venus Velocity uses laser technology to target the hair follicle in the anagen phase, which is when the hair responds best to the treatment.
Compilation:
Introducing the Venus Bliss MAX ™ : An Advanced 3-in-1 Body Shaping Solution
What is the Venus Bliss MAX™ designed to do?
Venus Country Manager ANZ , Gidon Silverman:
“The Venus Bliss MAX™ is the ultimate platform for transformational body sculpting, combining three core technologies to address fat reduction, muscle toning and skin tightening all in one innovative system. Its ability to treat multiple concerns in a single session allows clinics to streamline operations while offering highly desirable outcomes for patients. By delivering a comprehensive range of services in one treatment, clinics can attract a broader patient base, reduce equipment costs, and maximise their return on investment (ROI).
The Venus Bliss MAX™ allows clinics to provide multiple services with one device, increasing treatment options without requiring additional capital expenditure. This versatility not only broadens the appeal to diverse patient needs but also enhances operational efficiency, ultimately driving higher profitability.”
Talk us through the technical specs of the device.
“The Venus Bliss MAX™ features:
• 1064 nm Diode Laser: Targets fat layers with precision, providing up to 41% adipose reduction per treatment
• Electrical Muscle Stimulation (EMS): Engages and tones muscles with customisable protocols for maximum results
• Multi-Polar RF + PEMF Technology: Tightens skin and reduces cellulite while enhancing healing with its proprietary technology
• MP² Technology: Unique to Venus, this innovation works holistically by combining thermal and non-thermal mechanisms to rebuild tissues and tighten skin
• Hands-Free Design: Enables highly efficient and scalable operations for clinics.
The advanced, hands-free design reduces staffing needs for treatments, allowing clinics to run more efficiently. The absence of consumables further ensures that operational costs remain low, maximising the profit margin for every procedure performed.”
What differentiates the Venus Bliss MAX™ from competitor devices in the market?
“The Venus Bliss MAX™ stands out by integrating multiple advanced technologies into a single platform, offering a holistic approach to body contouring. Key differentiators include:
• MP² Technology, which offers a competitive edge by combining radiofrequency with pulsed electromagnetic fields to expedite healing and improve skin health
• Customisable protocols that address stubborn concerns like cellulite, skin laxity, and muscle loss with precision
• Zero consumables, making it a cost-
Bliss MAX™ eliminates ongoing costs tied to consumables and simplifies treatment protocols, reducing training and overhead expenses. This approach significantly boosts profitability while ensuring that clinics can maintain competitive pricing.”
What makes the Venus Bliss MAX™ an ideal investment for beauty and aesthetic businesses?
“The Venus Bliss MAX™ is an investment in innovation, efficiency, and profitability. By offering tri-modality solutions, clinics can expand their service portfolio without purchasing multiple devices. Its customisable treatments cater to trending concerns such as muscle loss and skin laxity, future-proofing a clinic’s offerings. Furthermore, the absence of consumables ensures ongoing high ROI, and the hands-free functionality minimises operational costs.
“WE COMBINE EVERY ELEMENT: SKIN, FAT AND MUSCLE, INTO ONE PLATFORM THAT DELIVERS THREE TECHNOLOGIES NON-SURGICALLY AND EFFECTIVELY, SETTING US APART IN THE MARKET.”
Clinics can attract new clients and retain existing ones by offering comprehensive body sculpting treatments with minimal upfront and recurring costs. For example, in a case study, a small clinic* using the Venus Bliss MAX™ paid off their device in under two years and achieved a net profit of $110,000 within the first year of generating ROI.”
What are the key benefits of financing with Venus partners?
“We collaborate closely with trusted financial lenders to help clients explore flexible financing options. These partnerships are designed to make it easier for clinics to invest in advanced technologies like the Venus Bliss MAX™ without upfront financial strain. By connecting our clients with financing experts, we ensure they can find terms that best suit their business needs and goals.
• Flexible payment structures tailored to cash flow and revenue cycles
• Accelerated access to cutting-edge technology to start generating ROI sooner
• Affordable monthly payments that allow clinics to maintain financial stability while growing their service offerings.
Investing in a Venus device is a strategic step toward expanding treatment capabilities and enhancing profitability, and we strive to make that process as seamless and accessible as possible.” ■
*Case study: US Skin Clinic owner/operator.
YAFFA ZHAV: A STORY OF SUCCESS
Passionate, inspirational, unstoppable: how over three decades, Yaffa Zhav defied the odds and succeeded.
Few Australian beauty gurus have stood the test of time quite like Yaffa Zhav - salon owner, skincare and device creator, and educator. Yaffa has taken multiple paths in her 35+ years in the industry. Her success has been forged in doing things differently, venturing into areas few suppliers dared to explore. Her mantra, “Take your passion and make it happen,” reflects her vibrant energy and entrepreneurial spirit.
Originally from Israel, Yaffa moved to Australia in 1979 after serving two years in the Israeli army, eventually rising to the rank of Sergeant. Despite her limited English, she opened her own beauty salon in Adelaide at 24, driven by a desire to help people look and feel their best. Yaffa’s innovative approach included creating a welcoming space for men in an industry traditionally focused on women, a move that led to her next venture—wholesale distribution. She founded Zhav International, quickly becoming a recognised and respected name in the industry.
By the 1990s, Zhav International gained national attention with the launch of YZ Derma Skincare, a line of vegan and active anti-aging products designed to blend seamlessly into a salon’s service offering (the YZ 24k Gold range is particularly striking). However, Yaffa’s quest for scientifically backed solutions didn’t stop with skincare. She expanded into aesthetic technology, collaborating with local engineers to create the ZHAV Dynamic Lift™ + Moisture Testing device. This all-in-one, hands-free machine was designed to address the gap in the non-surgical facelift market and is developed and manufactured in Adelaide.
The ZHAV Dynamic Lift™ + Moisture Testing device uses groundbreaking patented technology, clinically proven through scientific research. Its combination of microcurrent and faradic current targets both superficial and deeper muscles, delivering an intensity range of 500-800uA. Unlike other devices that rely on heat, this device enhances muscle memory for more effective results with visible results within 15 minutes. The compact and versatile device is ideal for salons, clinics, and spas, offering time- and cost-effective treatments. With payment plans starting at $99 per week including training and support, the device is quickly gaining demand both nationally and internationally. Flexible Low-Risk Finance is also available.
In recognition of her achievements, Zhav International won the ABIA Beauty Wholesaler of the Year 2024 for SA/TAS - just one of a string of local and national awards won throughout Yaffa’s career. The company’s Australia-based manufacturing ensures quick and reliable repair services for businesses. Yaffa believes in the importance of providing high-quality equipment with reliable support, stating, “When purchasing equipment, it should be time-efficient, costeffective, and deliver a high return on investment."
Yaffa’s commitment to her partners extends beyond product sales. Zhav International offers two-day practical and theoretical training courses. An online ‘Therapists Hub’, training videos, promotional strategies and marketing materials, as well as social media marketing support are also available to partnering salons. Launching in 2025, Yaffa will host a video series detailing her secrets to success.
“NEVER GIVE UP, NO MATTER HOW CHALLENGING LIFE IS.”
A R Y
Open to all therapists, videos will teach how to lead client enquiries to bookings and to register for treatment packages. "The goal is for therapists to invest in themselves, to invest in their businesses."
Clinics that have adopted the ZHAV Dynamic Lift™ + Moisture Testing device have reported significant increases in income, with some fully booked for weeks in advance.
In addition to her professional accomplishments, Yaffa is known for her philanthropic efforts, particularly supporting women undergoing chemotherapy. She donates her YZ Anti-Aging Oil to help with the harsh skin changes caused by treatment.
Yaffa’s can-do attitude, integrity, and dedication to Australian manufacturing have solidified her as a visionary in the beauty industry. Her advice to others: “Never give up, no matter how challenging life is.” ■
To learn if ZHAV International is the right choice for your beauty or aesthetics business, call 08 8362 0222, email info@zhav.com.au or visit www.zhav.com.
The transformative brow trend with summer in its sights. TAKE A WALK ON
Words: Erin Berryman Photography: Supplied
FEW FEATURES demonstrate the cyclical nature of beauty trends as dramatically as brows. Over the years, we’ve seen arches transition from pencilthin to full but impeccably sculpted, to various iterations of bold and bushy. While there has been significant evolution in shapes—giving rise to treatments like microblading and brow lamination— colour experimentation has been comparatively conservative, often confined to the runway. That is until now, thanks to celebrities bringing the barelythere bleached brow into the mainstream.
In response to this shift, Melanie Marris, founder of Brow Code, has launched Lemon Lights for a more subtle yet equally modern take on the trend. The name, inspired by the early noughties era of squeezing lemon into your tresses, represents a first-to-market breakthrough in brow lightening technology, delivering a soft and sun-kissed finish that matches the highlights of your hair. “While a full brow will always be in style, we are seeing the hype for Lemon Lights sweep across the globe, which is something fresh and new to the brow industry,” Melanie explains.
Unlike traditional bleached brows that can obscure the natural shape of the face, Lemon Lights enhances it. By lightning brow hairs just two to three shades, it imparts a bronzed tone that subtly contours the brow bone. For added definition, Melanie recommends a touch of highlighter below the brow arch and bronzer underneath to create a lifted, sculpted appearance.
“WHILE A FULL BROW WILL ALWAYS BE IN STYLE, WE ARE SEEING THE HYPE FOR LEMON LIGHTS SWEEP ACROSS THE GLOBE, WHICH IS SOMETHING FRESH AND NEW TO THE BROW INDUSTRY.”
The Lemon Lights professional brow system automatically customises to the specific brow’s undertone, ensuring a universally flattering result for all ages, skin tones and brow densities. Additionally, it avoids the red or orange undertone commonly associated with bleach and features a built-in safeguard against overprocessing, simplifying the application process for brow artists. The service typically takes between 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the desired level of lift, and can be paired with brow sculpting and waxing.
Similar to hair dye, the results are permanent, so touch ups are required every four to six weeks aligned with your hair growth cycle. If clients want to return to their original colour, they can simply use Brow Code Brow Tint. ■
Brow Code Lemon Lights is now available to order. To learn more, visit www.browcodepro.au
SPECIALISED PRODUCTS USED PREAND POST-TREATMENT WILL HELP KEEP THE SUN-KISSED BROW IN CHECK BETWEEN APPOINTMENTS:
• Fluffi Brow Build Super Strength Fluffi comms@fluffibeauty.com
• Garbo & Kelly Brow Gel in Clear Garbo & Kelly www.garboandkelly.com
• Amy Jean Brow Beam Highlighter Amy Jean stockists@amyjean.com.au
THE TRENDS OF THE BEAUTY TRADE: OTTO MITTER UNPACKS THE MOMENTS ELLEEBANA HAS LED THE WAY
Elleebana began in the realm of lash lifts and lash perms in 1995, as one of the first brands in the world to pioneer this movement.
Managing Director & Owner Otto Mitter set out to create a product that would work seamlessly with the brand’s eyelash tinting range, further enhancing the length and volume of natural eyelashes. As such, the figurehead is attached to many of the professional application and product trends the industry has come to practice every day.
But Otto’s entry into beauty didn’t come in the form of lashes (or even brows!), but in skincare. He followed closely in the footsteps of his mother - the very same woman who penned Australia’s first nationally recognised and accredited Diploma of Beauty, and established the bones of what is now known as The French Beauty Academy. An inspiration, Otto caught wind of her advice around establishing a strong work ethic and in understanding the history and elements of how the beauty industry and education sectors work. “This gave me valuable insight to apply to my cosmetic formulation background and product development projects, allowing me to focus on how that relates to the needs and demands of the ever-changing industry,” Otto says. “She has been one of my biggest supporters and is extremely proud of what we’ve been able to achieve in growing Elleebana around the world.”
“IT’S NOT THE STRONGEST OF THE SPECIES THAT SURVIVE, NOR THE MOST INTELLIGENT. IT’S THE ONES THAT ARE MOST ADAPTABLE TO CHANGE.”
As his mother became busier with the beauty college, Otto says the pair shifted their focus to the lash and brow sector. “We recognised this as a growing industry, and the ability to see instant results with the treatments really got salon owners excited. We started with eyelash tinting as our main offering, then added lash perming, as it was such a complementary service. Lash perming evolved into lash lifting, which has seen significant advancements around the world due to its popularity and the explosion of brands producing these products.”
Otto later introduced eyelash extensions into the mix, followed by eyebrow enhancement products.
“As we were offering brow tinting and brow shaping, these services became very popular and worked hand-in-hand with our offerings. Over the years, there have been many advances in hair care ingredients, particularly plant-based alternatives to keratin and bond repair technology, to help strengthen hair and lashes during chemical services. Elleebana was the first brand in the world to offer Kera-Veg in our Re-Gen formula back in 2017 - an intensive eyelash conditioning treatment provided by salons. It also incorporates Power Bond technology to help restore the disulphide and hydrogen bonding of hairs during the perming, lifting, and colouration processes.” This move alone has seen countless lash lift brands attempt their own versions, with Elleebana serving as a beacon of influence on a global scale.
The Elleeplex Profusion range was another significant milestone for innovation in the lash lift space, as it was the first formulation to set the trend and take the worry out of over-processing lashes. Otto says, “In particular, the eyelash extension industry embraced this type of formula, as they are very particular
Photography: Supplied
about lash health and the condition of lashes after poorly performed lash lifts that result in over-processing.” Elleeplex Profusion has a very gentle formulation that interacts with hair proteins differently from traditional thioglycolate systems, ultimately helping to minimise lash damage and keeping lashes strong and healthy.
Elleebana was also one of the first brands to create an aftercare system for lashes following lash lifting. “Initially, when we brought this product to the market, many people didn’t feel it was necessary, as the lashes looked so good after a lift. However, after consistent education and showcasing of results, the market began to see the benefits for clients, and the popularity of these kinds of products grew.”
The Elleebana One Shot system was one of the first in the world to offer lotions in sachets. This allowed salons to have fresh lotion every time they worked on a client, increasing product efficiency and ensuring fresh lotion for the technician each time. This was a huge gap in the market at the time. “We were also the first in the world to develop a number of techniques in the lash lift industry, such as natural lash assessment, lash placement and separation, lotion placement techniques, lash lift reversals, and resetting over-curled or processed lashes. We also led the way with rinsing lashes after a lash lift. All of these techniques are now widely used by most lash lift technicians around the world today.”
According to Otto, trends are extremely important to keep the industry thriving and exciting. “Not all trends will be viable long-term for salon owners, but even short-term trends can help bring in new business. When used with transparency and innovation, they can lead to fantastic outcomes in business.” When researching trends, Otto recommends conducting thorough investigations and making educated decisions on how they will work longterm in a business. “Often, it’s simply a matter of educating yourself about the latest trends so that you’re in the loop and able to answer client questions about how they work. There are trends that come into the industry that have longevity, such as lash lifting. What was once a trend has continued to flourish because it is viable and profitable for salon owners, and it’s also quite addictive for clients who love the service.”
VISION A R Y
What sets Elleebana apart, too, is the brand’s passion for education. “Over the years, Elleebana has continued to develop and perfect techniques and product innovations. Due to the nuances of lash lifting, we recognised that education was a key component in creating successful outcomes with our salon partners and anyone wanting to offer this service,” Otto explains.
“IF YOU WANT TO GROW, STAYING ON TOP OF TRENDS AND ENSURING THEY HAVE GOOD VIABILITY, EITHER IN A PROFIT SENSE OR IN GENERATING NEW LEADS OR CUSTOMERS, CAN BE A GREAT WAY TO BRING NEW CLIENTS THROUGH THE DOOR.”
Following social media and trends closely as a business owner is a MUST, Otto advises. “If your books are full and you’re a specialist at what you do, then you might not need to worry as much. However, if you want to grow, staying on top of trends and ensuring they have good viability, either in a profit sense or in generating new leads or customers, can be a great way to bring new clients through the door.”
Elleebana reviews its education and training materials annually to keep up with constant changes in the lash and brow industry. “We are constantly introducing new product offerings that enhance both the technician and customer experience,” Otto says. “Due to these updates, we always need to keep moving with the times and remain innovative. Elleebana is continually evolving with the online education world, and we incorporate this technology into our in-person offerings, giving students a well-rounded, 360-degree approach to learning, with access to the best resources and support.”
The brand has always excelled at adapting, which is why Elleebana remains 30 years strong in the industry. “It’s not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent. It’s the ones that are most adaptable to change. I always look at how we need to move with the times and customise our offerings to ensure we remain at the forefront of the lash and beauty industry,” Otto adds.
“Education and product development have been our focus, and we have been fortunate to create products that have literally changed the lives of salon owners. We have also expanded our network, setting up worldwide distributors in 60 countries. These distributors and salon owners have been able to build amazing businesses, and seeing Elleebana become a mainstay offering in salons around the world has been an incredibly inspiring experience. We are filled with gratitude for the support we have received from so many people worldwide.” ■
To learn if Elleebana is the right choice for your beauty business, visit www.elleebana.com.
How to navigate
A SKIN LIFT WITHOUT LOSING YOUR CLIENT
Open and honest pre-consultation is the key to avoiding unfortunate skin lifts, writes Kristie Lau-Adams.
NO MATTER how experienced you are, a skin lift can happen during any waxing procedure. Often, and incorrectly, perceived as a wax burn, a skin lift erupts when the skin’s top layer is inadvertently removed during waxing.
It may resemble a burn, particularly to clients, but a skin lift is always the result of skin adhering to wax. It is most common amongst clients undertaking an active skincare regimen or oral medications that heighten skin sensitivity.
According to Hanna Beasley, director and master artist at Lémac on the Gold Coast who specialise in brows and lashes, prevention starts with a thorough consultation. “Our clients are asked about their skincare and medication routines,” Hanna tells PB “Advising clients to discontinue the use of active ingredients for at least five days before a waxing appointment is crucial. Also, choosing a gentler wax for a patch test prior to the full treatment ensures the skin can tolerate waxing.”
She adds that clients are typically unaware of the risks their active skincare products pose. Ingredients like AHAs, vitamin A, vitamin C, retinol and topical steroids can speed up skin cell turnover and weaken the skin’s natural barrier. Medications administered to control various skin issues should also be disclosed.
“It is vital to educate clients about these risks,” she explains. “This transparency fosters trust while ensuring the client is well-informed and prepared for their treatment.”
In the case of a skin lift occurring during a treatment, immediate steps lead to optimal recovery. Hanna advises that therapists “immediately stop waxing the affected area” before using tweezers to complete shaping.
“Caution should also be exercised with post-waxing products as the exposed skin is more vulnerable to irritation and infection,” she adds, before recommending that clients are kept across all of the details.
“Open communication is essential,” she advises. “Explain the situation clearly [and] discuss potential causes.”
Clients should also be advised that once they’ve experienced a skin lift, they may be more susceptible to future incidents due to increased skin sensitivity. Hanna mitigates this risk by recommending additional precautions, like modifying a skincare routine and using gentler hair removal techniques.
One of Hanna’s managers at Lémac, Emily*, managed a skin lift in recent months and joins the wider team in educating both salons and client on the risks of skin lifts. Emily says that if a lift occurs, therapists should supply clients with detailed post-procedure care instructions and a “soothing balm” to treat the affected area.
“We provide our clients with a balm to use morning and night,” Emily details. “This keeps the area clean to assist the healing process. I also recommend using the balm as much as possible and avoiding the application of harsh products or makeup. Clients should also avoid picking at dry skin as it can lead to scarring.” ■
*Surname not disclosed
WITH INFLUENCERSWorking
Australian makeup artist Holly Harnwell shares what it takes to attend to some the mostfollowed clients in the country.
Holly, you have seven years’ experience under your belt as a Melbourne-based hair and makeup artist. What training did you undertake in this field before commencing your career?
“I began my training in this field at The Academy of Makeup in South Yarra where I did my Diploma of Makeup. I then went to New York for two months and assisted top makeup artists over there to gain as much knowledge and experience as possible. When I came back to Melbourne, I continued assisting and learning from the best makeup artists I knew, until I had enough confidence to say ‘yes’ to my own jobs. This was the best route for learning not only makeup and hair tips, but how to act professionally on high-profile photoshoots, which I believe is one of the most important lessons to learn for anyone wanting to make it in the industry.”
Your bio reads, “Her work is characterised by a distinctive touch, showcasing natural, flawlessly blended perfection.” What does this mean to you?
“I believe that makeup should enhance your natural features, and make you look and feel beautiful as yourself; not completely change the way you look. When I do makeup, I focus on enhancing natural beauty. I want your skin to look the best it has ever looked without being able to detect where and how the makeup has been placed. I want to make your eyebrows look like they are naturally full and perfectly shaped, without seeing the colour in them. And I want to enhance your eyes so the colour stands out, instead of adding too much makeup and too many lashes that can easily close the eyes off. I’ve always said that you want a person’s complement after you have had your makeup done to be ‘wow, you look amazing’, or ‘you are glowing’, not ‘the makeup you have on looks nice’. To do this, you need to know what products to use, where to place them, and how to properly blend for a flawless natural finish. This is what I focus on in every makeup application.”
Name your top three can’t-work-without makeup products.
1. “Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation
2. MAC Pro Longwear Concealer
3. Westman Atelier Face Trace Contour Stick in Truffle.”
“WORD OF MOUTH IS DEFINITELY ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ASPECTS OF HAVING SUCCESS AS A MAKEUP ARTIST.”
I understand you have produced looks for some of Australia’s best-known influencers, from Steph Claire Smith to Natalie Roser. How did your first connection to the influencer space come about? And how did you go about securing ongoing work with influencers after that?
“My first interaction with models and influencers started on photoshoots. I would get booked to do a photoshoot from a client and many times, the person I was booked to do makeup for would end up being a well-known influencer. If they liked the makeup, they would share on socials and be happy to pass your name around which builds trust for other influencers looking to book you. Word of mouth is definitely one of the most important aspects of having success as a makeup artist.”
What (personal and professional) qualities do you believe have been instrumental in helping you secure the jobs you’ve done?
“Being a freelance makeup artist, you are your business. I always took a lot of pride in how I presented myself to my clients with an emphasis on professionalism. I have always made sure I have been early to jobs, organised with my kit, and done my best to form personal connections with my clients, which always leads to ongoing work. I have also always been good at remaining calm in high-pressure environments, which is important as the nature of this industry - especially on high-profile photoshoots - can get stressful at times.”
What advice would you pass on to emerging hair and makeup artists hoping to work with influencers and celebrities?
“Assist other hair and makeup artists that have the career you want as much as possible. I cannot tell you how valuable assisting was for me. Not only will you learn skills and techniques, but learning how to be professional on photoshoots and highprofile jobs will make all the difference for you securing your own work.” ■
Interview: Hannah Gay Photography:
PERFECT A PERMANENT LIP BLUSH
Katarina Callegari is a two-time recipient of the APMAC Best Lip Blush Tattoo Award. She shares her process with Professional Beauty.
WHILE PERMANENT tattooing itself isn’t a new trend, lip tattoos have really gained traction in recent years. Traditional lip tattoos often had a bold, ‘tattooed’ look. But with advancements in technique and pigment quality, lip tattoos today are more subtle and natural-looking. Nowadays, the end goal is a fresh, enhanced look that blends seamlessly with your natural lips, giving you the benefits of a cosmetic treatment that lasts. Whether you want a soft flush of colour or more definition, the goal is always to achieve a result that’s effortlessly beautiful and low-maintenance.
The ideal lip tattooing candidate is anyone who wants to improve the shape, colour, and/or overall symmetry of their lips. I work with clients of all ages - from those in their 20s to those in their 80s - and they all share one common goal: to have beautiful, fuller lips that don’t require constant maintenance. Lip tattoo offers a hassle-free way to achieve a flawless look that lasts much longer than regular lipstick.
Step 1: Set up your workspace
First things first, get your workspace organised and make sure everything you’ll use is disposable. Have a range of needle configurations ready, depending on the technique you’re using, as well as all the necessary tools and pigments for the procedure.
Step 2: Pre-draw the lip shape
Start by sketching a light outline of the lips, always respecting the client’s natural lip border. It’s important not to overstep this boundary. For the pre-draw, I usually use a concealer or gel pen, but you can choose the tool that works best for your style. This step is all about getting the shape right before moving forward, so take your time here.
Step 3: Seek client approval, then numb
Once you’ve finished the pre-draw, show it to your client and make sure they’re happy with the shape. It’s essential that they’re comfortable with the design before you move on. One approved, apply a numbing cream to make the process as pain-free as possible. This ensures your client is relaxed and ready for the next steps.
Step 4: Etch the outline
Now it’s time to carefully outline the lips. Keep the line fine and light - just enough to define the edges without creating a harsh line. The idea is to make this outline subtle, as it will blend into the full colour later on. This step is all about precision, so don’t rush it.
Step 5: Fill in the lips
After the outline is done, it’s time to fill in the lips. How you do this depends on the client’s desired outcome. Some clients want a soft, blended look, while others may ask for a more defined, solid colour. I always make sure to adjust the technique to match what the client envisions, working in layers to create a smooth, even finish. And VOILÀ! The result is naturally enhanced, fuller lips with a fresh, vibrant look. Keep in mind that the colour will soften by about 30% as the lips heal, giving them a more subtle, balanced appearance. Lip tattoos typically last between two to three years. Encourage touch-ups to allow the lips to maintain that beautiful, just-done look. ■
THE TANNING FRONTIERS
Meet three Australian made tanning brands redefining the sector.
TANNING IS having a moment. And no, not the kind of tan that results from hours spent lazing in the sun sans sunscreen; we know better than that now. We mean spray tanning, and the evolutionary formulas that have sprung up in the last decade. Gone are the days Bondi Sands ruled the roost, and the UK’s St Tropez was considered the ‘It Girl’ brand. Today, consumers are spoilt for choice in the brands they follow and salons they turn to for the perfect faux glow.
A slew of bright, young Australian women are quietly leading the next generation of tan brands set to become household names. And just like the Bondi Sands’ that have come before them, they’re finding their roots in salon. It’s not just the formulas that have improved. Modern marketing campaigns and presence in high-end salons are aligning tanning brands with a premium flair. And in 2025, led by the pull of social media, the founders of tanning brands are held in just as high esteem as the models featured in their campaigns.
“Ten years ago, people were still a bit hesitant about moving from sun tanning to faux tanning,” Emily McKay, Director at Spray Aus tells Professional Beauty. “We knew there was a gap in the market, and we saw it as an opportunity to create the right experience and product to help people make that transition. We were determined to create something that ticked all the boxes—convenience, quality, and that perfect healthy glow.” Spray Aus began as a mobile tanning business before opening four self-titled bricks-and-mortar salons along with its own line of tanning solutions. Since 2014, the Australian brand has successfully secured a distribution deal through MECCA, all while continuing to partner with dozens of other salons nationwide.
“Spray tans have evolved so much. When we first started, there was definitely some reputation work to do—let’s be honest, no one wanted to end up looking orange! But now, a spray tan is part of the pre-event ritual, just like getting your hair done; it’s all about feeling good. Plus, Australians are really informed when it comes to sun safety, and that translates into a lot of trust in Australian tanning brands - and on a global scale, too. But it’s not just about being safe—it’s the innovation that gets
people excited. We’re always experimenting with new ingredients, like hydrating formulas or antiaging benefits. It’s about constantly evolving and giving our customers better and better results.”
Despite the brand’s success, Emily admits Spray Aus’ initial pitch to MECCA didn’t make the cut. “Looking back, we weren’t ready. Instead of letting that setback stop us, we took on the feedback, learned from it, and came back stronger and smarter. That initial rejection actually gave us the preparation we needed to come back with even more confidence a few years later.” To further the brand’s point-ofdifference, Spray Aus’ Melbourne salons are set to be fitted with infrared saunas “to bring an even more holistic approach to wellness,” Emily adds. “And with international growth on the way, we’re ready for the next chapter; the future is looking pretty bright!”
Also celebrating a decade in the industry in 2024 was Bella Bronze Tan, founded by Jasmine Scarr. “My [salon] clients were always happy with their tans, it was more me looking for something better - less sticky, no scent, no golden undertone, less bronzers, and better fade off,” Jasmine says on the product’s entry into the market. “I was paying $126/litre back then, and I felt I could do better if I created something myself.” Fast-forward to today, and open any Facebook beauty group where you’ll find Bella Bronze Tan regularly recommended by salon owners.
“AUSTRALIANS ARE REALLY INFORMED WHEN IT COMES TO SUN SAFETY, AND THAT TRANSLATES INTO A LOT OF TRUST IN AUSTRALIAN TANNING BRANDS - AND ON A GLOBAL SCALE, TOO.”
Jasmine credits the brand’s success to its “highgrade ingredients, luxe blends and beautiful botanicals.” Solutions are registered under Jasmine’s own IP and are designed to suit sensitive skins. “That was really important to me,” she says. “We get asked all the time if we will offer private labelling and this is a ‘no’ for me, as it’s too close to my heart.” Solutions contain an aloe vera base, over a propylene glycol base; a European DHA, over a synthetic DHA out of China. “We are known for our Australian extracts and natural scents. We are skin barrier focused, not hiding nasties with perfume.” Solutions are also free of PEGs, synthetic fillers and parabens.
Bella Bronze Tan recently scored distribution through Direct Chemist Outlet, adding to its national salon network in the hundreds, notably throughout Brisbane. “Keeping up with demand is tricky. It comes down to cash flow, as you need to order well in advance to avoid running out of stock. That can be 6-16 weeks depending on the time of the year,” Jasmine explains. “It is just me - no investors - so that has come with practice and planning.” With experience under her belt, Jasmine hopes to grow the brand’s retail presence further, both in Australia and the USA, whilst supporting Bella Bronze Tan’s salon partners along the way. “I have three more professional products launching this year, and possibly one retail. And opening another salon would be nice, either up in Airlie Beach or in Brisbane!”
For Tanzola, founder Madelaine Friedrich took a different approach entirely, having found her niche in the country’s growing mobile spray tan sector. Tanzola currently employs 21 remote staff along the
East Coast, with most bookings coming out of the Gold Coast and Sydney. According to Madelaine, mobile services provide an entry or re-entry into the professional beauty industry for women of all ages. Every Tanzola tan artist is a qualified beauty therapist, who is required to undergo additional training with the company upon registering. Incoming therapists are given a refresher on how to conduct a spray tan, as well as an education on tan customisation and customer service.
Like Emily and Jasmine, Madelaine also recognises the increased demand for spray tans after witnessing her business double in earnings year-on-year and Tanzola graduates go on to create their own successful businesses. “We've seen a huge rise in demand from the Australian wedding market which has our team members traveling interstate to service whole wedding parties in luxury hotels and Airbnbs,” Madelaine shares. “This surge has come off the back of the pandemic.” Speaking candidly, Madelaine flags the hardest part of business ownership has been in growing her team.
“I've always been told, nobody works harder than the owner of the company, which to me is very true. Relinquishing control has been a huge challenge. I've been very selective in bringing on new team members as I need to make sure our brand and service remain as I created it.” She says consistency is key to ensure the Tanzola client can expect the same outcome, time after time.
Tanzola is also the producer of its own tanning solutions. Madelaine recalls manufacturing delays resulting from Melbourne’s string of COVID-19 lockdowns, further slowing the near two-year process it took to achieve the brand’s finished formula. Despite this, she remains committed to manufacturing locally. “[Australia] seems to be the birthplace of some incredible mass-market consumer brands, as well as the chosen location for overseas companies. We’re very lucky to have fantastic formulators and developers here so that we don’t need to seek this offshore.” With the country’s strict guidelines surrounding the sale of therapeutic goods, Madelaine believes Australians are privy to the benefits of supporting locally made products.
The outcome of this process later came in the form of a simplified range consisting of DHA solutions 10% and 15% . Natural ingredients are used to create Tanzola’s distinctive scent. And colour is amplified via the inclusion of a strong bronzer blend for each application. “Our solutions were created for the spray tan artist, not just the consumer. We're one of the few tanning brands that continues to collect databased feedback to ensure our solutions remain effective. With this, we can pivot to develop and amend our products for the future.” While utilised in all its mobile tans, the brand is also available in 20 other standalone salons - stockists Madelaine says highly value the support they receive from Tanzola.
“I’m extremely proud of how this brand has evolved,” she says. “We watch market trends both here and offshore, and we’re always looking to ensure we’re giving our clients and customers the best experience and service. My dream is to expand and service more locations within Australia but also the APAC region. As our clients move overseas or travel, we want them to be able to [have access to] their great Australian Tanzola tan.”
REINVENTING PROFESSIONAIL
Jenny Vo, General Manager at ProfessioNail Australia, shares an update on the country’s largest nail salon franchise.
Jenny, I understand ProfessioNAIL - an American owned company - first launched into the Australian market in 2000. What prompted ProfessioNAIL to launch here?
“ProfessioNail was born in 1992, in New Orleans, Louisiana. Our beginnings in the Jazz Capital of the world means soul has always been at the heart of our brand ethos. The company’s founder had the vision to shake up the nail industry with affordable, full-service nail care that blended artistry with strict sanitation standards. Back then, no one had quite nailed it yet, but they were determined to change that.
As the demand for accessible beauty grew, so did we. In 2000, ProfessioNail opened its first store in Australia, and has since expanded into a global powerhouse, with over 200 salons across the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Northern Europe, and Asia. We’ve been pampering millions of people and redefining beauty experiences worldwide - and we’re only just getting started! ProfessioNail is here to make sure everyone’s hands (and feet, and lashes, because our treatment menu is growing just as fast as we are) are always in good hands. We sought to create a welcoming environment with approachable price points for beauty, understanding the importance of the ritual for consumers, as well as the emotional response to feeling polished was at the heart of this.”
How many bricks-and-mortar salons do you currently operate across Australia?
“With hundreds of stores across Australia and New Zealand, we at ProfessioNail pride ourselves in having a fantastic team that offers incredible treatments and unbeatable client service at rates we can stand behind. We also have new salons opening all the time. We’ve been a mainstay for those who value top-notch services at affordable prices since 2000.”
From the outset, ProfessioNAIL is the country’s nail salon franchise success story. What do you attribute to the company’s success over the last two decades?
“Understanding our clients. Inclusivity was also of paramount importance to the brand’s ideology. We wanted every generation and demographic to feel comfortable in our salon spaces. We see our business as a melting pot of cultures, bringing people from all walks of life together via the universal love for self-care and self-expression.”
How would you define the 2024 ProfessioNAIL client?
“Following on from the above, they are everyone; every person who celebrates identity, beautification and upkeep. Celebrating self-expression and self-care is the cornerstone of our offering and this, like our brand, does not discriminate. Our re-brand also reflects this - we wanted a fusion of classic, Hollywood glamour with the excitement and creativity of younger demographics.”
In 2024, ProfessioNAIL underwent a total branding overhaul, unveiling a redesigned logo, website, and social strategy. What is the goal of this revised look and feel?
“The imagery, tone and aesthetic direction for ProfessioNail can be described as polished, bold, dreamy, and unapologetically expressive - blending elements of glamour and high fashion with emotional intensity, creativity and a stylised, youthful edge.
The goal of the new branding was to embody a youthful and rebellious edge to represent the new wave of younger generations. Fashion, makeup and nail art are key components, showcasing unconventional styles with glitter, rhinestones, and vibrant eyeshadow. This aesthetic aligns with Gen Z and youth culture’s desire for self-expression and breaking traditional norms.
There’s a balance between timeless Hollywood glamour and the gritty, textured, street-style art form. The juxtaposition of high-gloss beauty with tastemaker culture creates a tension that drives the aesthetic and inclusivity for every type of client, of every generation.”
Is this revised branding specifically tailored to the Australian market? Or does it reflect a larger, global rebrand?
“For now, this has been tailored specifically for the Australian market. However, we also ensure that there’s a universal nature to our designs.”
Why undergo this revised branding in 2024? What made now the right time?
“For any brand, there is a naturally occurring need to refresh and modernise to reflect society and culture. It was time. There has been so much exciting change in the world of beauty and selfexpression that it felt only natural to emulate that for our clients.”
What can consumers expect from ProfessioNAIL in the coming 12-24 months?
“There’s a lot of exciting developments in the works to watch out for. Some are still in early development and inception, so you will have to stay tuned. You can expect our services to expand to reflect the needs of our clients, so keep your eyes peeled!” ■
“WE SEE OUR BUSINESS AS A MELTING POT OF CULTURES, BRINGING PEOPLE FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE TOGETHER VIA THE UNIVERSAL LOVE FOR SELFCARE AND SELF-EXPRESSION.”
THE M WORD
This is a book extract from ‘The M Word: How to Thrive in Menopause’ by
Dr Ginni Mansberg*.
CHAPTER 2: MEET YOUR HORMONES
We can’t start to talk about perimenopause and menopause without describing your hormones and their actions. I’m going to take a bit of a sprint through these and give you some definitions. Menopause marks the effective end-of-production of one of your hormone mega-factories, your ovaries. They have, hopefully, served you well up to this stage, giving you fertility and producing the hormones that help keep you youthful and healthy. Technically, the day of the start of your menopause is 12 months since the first day of your last period. We are hard at work to change this as it is tough on women who have had a hysterectomy or are taking a medication that suppresses periods. But that’s what we are stuck with for now. The average age of natural menopause in Western societies is 51 (one to two years earlier for smokers), although the range is huge. Hitting menopause anywhere between 45 and 58 is pretty normal. It’s worth noting that in Australia, 12 per cent of women go into menopause before age 45 and 4 per cent before age 40. But for most women, you can expect to live at least a third of your life as a postmenopausal woman. Or even a half! Until the day you do hit menopause, you’re technically still in perimenopause. Perimenopause (‘menopause transition’) is defined by the World Health Organization and the North American Menopause Society as the two to eight years preceding menopause and one year following your final period. What does perimenopause look like? Well, in 10 per cent of women it looks like nothing. Normal life . . . and then one day you realise it’s been a year since your last period; so, you’ve hit menopause with no symptoms at all. Ninety per cent of us get some symptoms, from hot flushes (up to 75 per cent of women) to heavy periods (25 per cent of us), unpredictable irregular periods, vaginal dryness, insomnia, mood problems, exhaustion, low libido and incontinence. Fun? Yeah, right.
What do my ovaries do?
In every typical premenopausal 28-day cycle, an amazing and mysterious miracle takes place: one of your millions of sleepy immature eggs is selected as ‘egg of the month’. Under the steady influence of follicle-stimulating hormone (FSH) released by the pituitary gland in the brain, the egg begins to grow
inside its follicle or bubble. When the follicle reaches a certain size, it triggers the same pituitary to send in a surge of luteinising hormone (LH). LH tells your follicle to go ahead and release the egg, which heads off down the fallopian tube, hopefully to meet the sperm of her dreams and turn into a baby. What is left of the follicle is now called a corpus luteum. Along with the name change comes a function change. The corpus luteum produces stacks of progesterone and a more moderate amount of oestrogen; these hormones are essential for the health of the embryo. Assuming the egg didn’t meet her Casanova sperm and get fertilised, the corpus luteum eventually fades and, with it, your oestrogen and progesterone levels. Once they are low enough, your uterus can no longer hold on to its lining, which starts to break down and come out as a period. Once you are throughmenopause, your ovaries no longer release an egg of any sort. Your fertility is over.
What happens to all these hormones during perimenopause and menopause? I want to start by saying that this area is poorly understood, including by doctors. It wasn’t until I was going through perimenopause myself that I got my teeth into the research and started hounding the experts. The easy part to understand is actual menopause. By now your ovaries have completely stopped working and practically no oestrogen is being made. A small amount of oestrogen will come from your fat (via aromatase, the enzyme that sits in fat cells and converts testosterone to oestrogen). And a small amount comes from the adrenal precursor hormones. But your oestrogen has pretty much flatlined. It’s perimenopause, the era I like to call hormone hell, that has everyone befuddled. While perimenopause and menopause are often thrown in together, hormonally they are as different as chalk and cheese. We know that progesterone does indeed start a steady decline from perimenopause. This decline starts way before your periods even start to become erratic. It finally falls close to zero as you hit menopause. The perimenopause falls into two categories along a timeline we call the Stages of Reproductive Aging Workshop (STRAW). STRAW-2 (two steps from menopause, which we call zero) is the first half of perimenopause. During STRAW-2 you start ovulating less often and the ovulations you do have don’t give you a nice, well-functioning corpus luteum, so your ovaries simply can’t make progesterone like they used to. In STRAW-1 ovulation is even less common but your oestrogen levels start to decline too.
Old-school thinking was that oestrogen does the same thing: a slow decline. We now know that the picture is far more complex. Many studies have shown that, in fact, during perimenopause your oestrogen fluctuates up and down like a yoyo. This is because, as your ovaries are getting a little weaker and just cranking out less oestrogen generally, your pituitary gland in your brain leaps into gear and starts pushing out FSH. These slightly aging ovaries will move between sluggishly ignoring the FSH, to having a massive response and pushing out stacks of oestrogen. So, you can oscillate between low oestrogen and excessive oestrogen month to month, week to week, even day to day.
In the final stages of perimenopause (STRAW-1), particularly in the one to two years prior to your final period, your oestrogen levels finally do decline and you get less episodes of the excess oestrogen. Plus your androgens are doing a last bizarre surge before true menopause starts. All of which leaves you in hormone hell. On days when you get excess oestrogen and lack of progesterone, you’ll enjoy insomnia, anxiety, breast tenderness and swelling. The next day your oestrogen levels might fall, so you may get hot flushes from oestrogen withdrawal. Blood hormone level tests at this time are utterly useless, because the levels one day bear no relation to the levels the next day or the next week. It’s a difficult time for fertility too. The high levels of FSH can see women ovulate not once but twice. So, in terms of fertility, you kind of lurch between very low fertility, and extreme excess fertility with a high risk of twins. And if you’ve had anxiety or depression before, watch out. You hit peak emotional roller-coaster around the time of your menopause transition. ■
*Mansberg, G. (2024). The M Word: How to Thrive in Menopause. Murdoch Books. (Originally published in 2020). Purchase a copy at www.eskcare.com.
Dr Ginni Mansberg is a GP specialising in menopause management, a TV host on Channel 7’s Sunrise and The Morning Show, and the author of The New Teen Age and Save Your Brain. Voted Australia’s most trusted healthcare professional in 2022, she is also a member of the Australasian and International Menopause Societies and co-founder of Don’t Sweat It – Menopause in the Workplace. She’s also the founder of ESK Evidence Skincare.
Heading up the HEAD SPA CRAZE
Sonya Annesley is the founder of Sydney Head Spa Co - a newly established extension on her salon of two decades. Hannah Gay sat down with the experienced beauty therapist as she reveals how introducing the service brought a fresh lease on life to her business.
Sonya, tell us about yourself and your experience in the industry.
“I’ve been a beauty therapist for 41 years, training at The Academy of Beauty Therapy. I’ve owned this particular salon (InnerSense Beauty & Day Spa) for 20 years, which I’m extremely proud of. I’ve nearly always worked for myself, having found that this [career] could work around me being a single parent of two beautiful girls. I’ve seen so many staff changes, and many changes within the industry in that time, but I still love it.”
And you’re still treating?
“I am! I’m fully booked today at 63 years-old. My plan is never to sell, but to take a step back, manage it more, because I love looking after my clients. I don’t take on any new clients now.”
Paint us a picture of the recent state of your business and what challenges you’ve faced.
“After COVID, I think I still have PTSD from closing the salon. I really struggled… I just didn’t know if I had it in me to do it all again [in light of the second Sydney lockdown]. But I realised I didn’t have a choice; I’d have to start again. It was just up to me to think of something else [to offer], and to evolve again. I’m not going to pretend it’s been all beer and Skittles, because it hasn’t. And often I wondered, ‘where am I going wrong?’ ‘Why can’t I do this better?’ I put a lot of pressure on myself.
And then, you’re constantly training up staff and trusting them. They’re the perfect team, and then someone starts up somewhere else, taking your staff. But it all happens for a reason, and I absolutely believe that. I believe no one is irreplaceable, because every single time someone has left, I’ve gotten someone better, and that’s the truth. I love the team I have now because every single one of
them brings something really unique to the business. They care about each other, about me, about the salon, about the clients, and people say that about us. I want them to be themselves; I don’t want them to stand on ceremony. I want them to have fun.”
Were you looking to take on a new treatment in an attempt to place your business in a stronger operational and financial position? Or did the head spa ‘come to you’?
“A little bit of both. Once I saw it on TikTok - and it was two years ago - I thought, ‘we need to do this’, but it was a matter of how. I knew I didn’t want to have it over a basin, because I cannot see how that could be comfortable. I also find the day spa thing messy. I wanted [the client] to snuggle in and be on that bed, and have us look after them from the minute they arrived, not moving between beds or from a basin.
It took endless online research. The more I read, the more I felt we could make a real financial difference bringing something completely new to the salon. And I was right, which is nice, because it’s always a risk. Then, I found someone that could import [the head spa beds], and it went from there. I knew I needed to get something that was going to meet Australian standards. I didn’t need the pressure of bringing in a cheaper, inferior product, setting up a whole room, and to not be happy with it. They were built from scratch from China, but the [six month] wait was unbearable.”
Photography: Supplied/Brandon Rooney
How have you gone about training the team in performing head spa services?
“Getting the training was tricky. [The team] have gone and had different head spas and taken from those what we liked and what we didn’t like. We practiced on each other… the girls and clients were great at giving feedback. Then, we put the protocol together ourselves. It was hilarious, because we had these brand new beds that we’d never seen before, we had this amazing plumber, and we had to work out how to use the thing… no manual. We flooded the room! We had clients coming in who knew we were practicing; we had friends and family. We wanted something unique to the Sydney Head Spa Co; [something clients] were never going to get somewhere else. We didn’t want to cause trauma to the scalp. We are treating and also [conducting a] relaxing [service]. That’s why I feel ours are different. It was quite a while before we felt ready to say ‘we’re doing it’, but we had 95 people on a waiting list, so we had to start. We’re also going to start a male treatment that is shorter without the dry off at the end.”
Talk us through the head spa treatment itself.
the original colour I wanted turned black when we had the lights dim. It was fun designing it.”
How much do you charge for a treatment?
“I charge $165 for the Sydney Head Spa Co experience, which is the hour, and I charge $240 for the same head spa, plus an Ultraceuticals facial. And we’re doing about 20 per week. We thought it may be a one-off treatment, but people re-book. Gift voucher sales have also tripled just for the head spa.
“We say to them, ‘let me look after you today; let me be the one that can make a difference in your day today’. I do a little spiel before we start the head spa, and ask them to let us know if the temperature of the water is not right, if it’s too much pressure, it’s not enough pressure, because this is your treatment, and we really want you to get the very best. Everybody’s pressure points and temperature points are different.
The whole treatment runs for an hour. You fill out a [consultation] form to specify any hair issues. We do a scalp scrub to begin with, [followed by] a double or triple cleanse, in case they have a lot of build up in their hair. And then you’ve got to be careful about rinsing every bit of product out. We’ve got about three or four different beautiful masks, so we really massage that in and leave it in for a long time, and rinse out. Then, the halo treatment, which everybody loves. Lots of massaging, lots of TLC, lots of thinking, ‘how can I make this client feel as good as she possibly can?’
It is a completely different feel to anything else I’ve ever had… for days you feel different. It’s like a lightness that can make your skin and scalp quite stimulated because you’ve worked so hard on it. You might find your scalp can be quite oily afterwards. It’s not like the perfect hair wash, but your scalp just feels amazing. We don’t profess to change [clients’] lives as far as treating the hair. We look at the hair, we talk to them about their hair, and that’s it.
And because you’re down [laying flat] on the bed, it’s a great position to be able to massage from; we can get right into the neck and shoulders. I think some people think it’s like an automatic bed that does the whole thing. We are actually working the whole time; you do not leave the client. The only time your hands are off the client is when they’re under the halo, and that just gives you a chance to tidy up, get them a glass of water, get the hair dryer ready, take your towels outside… there’s about six towels per person!”
I see the head spa as a more accessible treatment compared to a facial. Because not everyone would get a facial, but everyone gets their hair done. It’s not too much of a stretch from what they would ordinarily do…
“We have a lot of mothers and daughters. My girlfriend came in and bought her 80 year-old mum, who recently had a stroke. She said, ‘that was really special to me, to be able to do that with her’. We took what we saw from [hairdressers] and then made it into a nurturing experience that we know we can do really well. My mum loves facials, and even this was next level for her, because it’s so much more than a facial.”
So why green walls for the head spa room?
“Originally, I was just going to put the beds in an existing room. I was at my hairdresser and she said, ‘Sonya, I feel it’s got to be completely different; a completely different experience,’ and she was right. We gutted a room and started from scratch, and it doesn’t look remotely like any other part of the Hamptons-style salon. I wanted this room to feel like an enchanted forest with water running… that was my vision. The staff were horrified [by the green], but were involved in every step. We’d paint half the walls and [see it through] different stages of the day because
It’s good to have a really good hair range. We use the Davines range, so there is literally something for everyone. When I was looking for ranges, they had to smell good, yes. And Pure also ticked all of my boxes because they’re vegan, gluten-free, and I’ve loved the company; they’ve been an amazing support to me.”
Business has boomed since you brought on the head spa treatment…
“Because it was something different! New clients that may have drifted off have happily come back, which has been interesting. And lots of beautiful new clients. They’ve [come in for a head spa] and then they’ve wanted other things like facials; they didn’t know we existed, perhaps. Our reach has gone further with our social media. People were tagging each other, and we weren’t even asking for that. When things were quite bad economically, part of me was a bit apprehensive about introducing something new, and the other part of me was thinking, ‘you can’t afford not to do this’. There’s always room for something else. Over the years, I put the Omnilux in and things went crazy, I put the laser in and things went crazy. You’ve got to just keep reinventing yourself. You’ve got to really pull yourself apart and think, ‘how can I change this?’ But really, I wanted to do it. I just didn’t realise what an economic boom that would be for me.”
Any advice to other salons looking to add the head spa treatment to their services menu?
“If they’ve got the space - because it does take up a lot of space - [do it]. I think head spas are here to stay; it’s brought a whole new level to our business, and one that I’m really proud of. I always feel in this industry, ‘how lucky are we that we can make a difference in someone’s life?’ We know our clients, so we know if they’re having a rough time. The head spa releases something - touch points get stimulated for a long period of time, and the water running makes for a totally immersive experience. Ultimately, you have to believe in yourself, know that you can grow from your setbacks, and then be proud of where you get to when you do.” ■
Davines Energizing Shampoo and Pure Walnut Scrub Hairjamm 07 3850 6200
5 Must-TryBEAUTY EXPERIENCES IN Seoul
1
Clinical treatment
Visiting a beauty clinic in Seoul was like going to my doctor’s office. Bookings are highly recommended, but even then, you’ll have to be patient. The process went like this: check-in, wait, consultation, payment, numbing, wait, cleanse my face, wait, put my bag in a locker, wait, move to the treatment room, wait, then have my treatment with an English-speaking practitioner. Although there was minimal after-care and had an assembly line feel, the low-touch customer service is part of what helps keep treatments affordable and accessible without compromising on effectiveness.
I tried Shurink Universe - a Korean high intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) technology. The practitioner delivered 800 ‘shots’ under my eyes, around my cheeks, and along my jawline to provide a smooth, tightening, and lifting effect. With numbing applied, it felt like nothing more
South Korea’s capital city is a bucketlist destination for beauty enthusiasts. Revered as a hub for its foreignerfriendly treatments and vibrant shopping scene, Seoul does not disappoint, writes Amy Hadley.
than gentle heat. As promised during the consultation, the results became visible after a week and should last for about five months. Try: Lienjang (Myeongdong Branch), Jung-gu District.
2 Traditional body scrub
I arrived at a women’s only 24-hour jjimjilbang (communal bathhouse) quite prepared. Having experienced onsens in Japan and a Korean-style body scrub in Sydney, I mostly knew what to expect. Strip. Shower. Soak. When it’s time for the scrub, avoid sliding off the plastic-coated bed as I’m lathered, buffed, and hosed.
When the woman performing my treatment wasn’t sloughing my skin with a heavy-duty exfoliating cloth, she was repositioning my limbs or catching me before I fell off the slippery bed. Compared to a similar scrub I’d had in Sydney, this was far more rigorous than relaxing – and my nude body flailing in a room full of other women didn’t help ease my mind. However, it was worth it to feel (and see) every trace of dead skin being scrubbed away. By the end, I felt energised, silky smooth, and accomplished from not landing on the tiles.
Try: Spa Lei, Seocho-gu District.
3
15-step head spa
The longer I spent in Seoul, the more I realised many ‘Korean’ beauty experiences exist for tourists. Lengthy hair washing appointments don’t seem to be a regular thing for most people, so perhaps it wasn’t the most authentic experience. However, I kept my appointment to see if a 15-step head spa treatment would live up to the hype seen on social media.
The hairdresser took magnified before-and-after photos of my scalp, showing how the steaming, exfoliating, cleansing, nourishing, and massaging steps rejuvenated my scalp. This treatment also included the famous ‘waterfall’, trickling warm water over my head while a full-body massage chair squeezed and kneaded me. It felt a bit gimmicky, but I left with blow dry-styled hair that was undeniably softer, bouncier, and felt clean for days. If you look forward to going to your hairdresser primarily for the head massage, this is for you. Try: Park Jun Beauty Lab (Myeongdong Branch), Jung-gu District.
4 Colour analysis
No trip to Seoul is complete without receiving some well-meaning feedback about how you look, whether from a sales assistant or service provider. The philosophy seems to be if you ask for someone’s advice, they will give it to you straight because you value their opinion.
My colour analysis appointment was only slightly humbling, as the colour expert flicked through swatches to find my ‘personal colours’. She shook her head and grimaced at some: a definite no. She demonstrated how ‘good’ shades added brightness and vibrancy to my face, whereas ‘bad’ shades had a dulling effect. The process gradually trained my eyes to see the difference for myself.
I left my appointment with valuable knowledge about which clothing and cosmetic colours to look for, down to the exact shade.
Try: COCORY Color Inc, Seodaemun-gu District.
5 Shopping
With over 1,200 Olive Young cosmetics stores across South Korea, I barely had to search to find one. Though some stores are far bigger than others, they all have an impressive range of brands, many of which would be familiar to K-beauty fans.
There are also plenty of unique beauty shopping experiences in Seoul, from pop-ups to concept stores. My favourite was Amore Seongsu, which is Amorepacific’s flagship store. Set in a converted industrial space, it features stations to create custom serums, lipsticks or foundations, plus masterclasses and themed exhibitions. The five-storey 3CE Stylenanda Pink Space Hotel, SKIN1004 concept store, and Beauty Play promotion centre were also fun to visit while exploring the Myeong-dong shopping district. Head to one of the city’s many mega-sized department stores or Garosu-gil in Gangnam for upmarket shopping. ■
What I LoveABOUT WOMEN
According to internationally qualified skin therapist, owner of Skin Correctives, ABIC Councillor, and founder of What Women Want, Karen Meiring de Gonzalez.
MY MOTHER was the perfect role model for unconditional love, showing me how to care deeply without judgment, with endless patience and resilience. Her support gave me strength and stability through a strict and challenging upbringing. Beyond my mother, I’ve been shaped by countless women I’ve met—from colleagues on cruise ships to clients, and women in our community and skin industry. I don’t believe in a single role model; instead, I’m inspired by the grace, courage, determination, and kindness I see in many women. It’s not about perfection but recognising the strengths we all have. These women continue to teach me and help me grow, and for that, I’m endlessly grateful.
Growing up under strict rules about being ‘good’ left me questioning my identity. Exploring who I was often brought joy but also guilt, as I felt I was falling short of expectations. Over time, I learned that letting go of unnecessary rules and judgment—of myself and others—makes life richer and more fulfilling. I aspire to uplift others, whether by helping clients feel confident, supporting my team, or being a role model for my children. I want to show them that challenges don’t define us and that we can live meaningful lives despite obstacles. I’m still a work in progress, but every experience has taught me something valuable. I strive to live authentically, keep learning, and approach life with kindness and purpose.
As a skin therapist and electrologist, I’ve connected with women on a personal level, hearing their stories and witnessing their inner strength. Those women are often courageous, strong, resilient, and selfless. I see them display remarkable strength and adaptability, whether facing illness, challenges, or balancing work and family. From working with women around the world to those in my community and industry, one common thread is their willingness to support one another.
Women form ‘tribes’ of empathy and encouragement, creating a ripple effect of kindness.
Their compassion and determination inspire me every day. Networking groups like Illawarra Women in Business are about building authentic relationships. For me, it’s about finding common ground, learning from others, and offering mutual support. They create a space to connect with the real women behind the businesses—their stories, challenges, and passions—which adds depth to these connections.
During the COVID pandemic, I witnessed incredible camaraderie, particularly in the skin and beauty industry, with women checking in, sharing advice, and supporting one another. These groups remind us that we’re not alone and that success is rarely straightforward. Women juggle many roles, and networking groups provide understanding, collaboration, and inspiration. They empower women to connect, grow, and support one another, fostering a sense of community that benefits everyone involved.
For my staff and for my clients, I aim to create a space where women feel supported, valued, and empowered. Whether helping a client regain confidence or guiding a team member to grow, I want everyone to feel capable of becoming their best selves. I’ve seen young women develop skills and confidence, often achieving more than they expected. Collaboration and mutual learning make this work so rewarding. I also recognise not everyone is the right fit for the journey and letting them go gracefully allows them to find their own path. I want my team to feel valued and my clients to leave confident and cared for.
Supporting clients transitioning from male to female has been one of the most humbling parts of my career. These women demonstrate extraordinary courage as they embark on a deeply emotional journey to align their external selves with their true identity, often facing the heartbreaking choice between living authentically or not living at all. As an electrologist, I’ve provided permanent hair removal for
over three decades—a vital step in their transition. These sessions often become spaces of support and understanding, where I’ve listened to their stories of resilience and determination, leaving a profound impact on me. This work has taught me the importance of creating a safe, respectful space where clients feel valued for who they are. It’s been a privilege to support these women and learn from their strength, authenticity, and bravery.
Working with women of all ages is a privilege and constant source of inspiration. Grandmothers bring wisdom and resilience, focusing on what matters most, though they remind me of the importance of self-care. Women in their middle years are determined and resourceful, balancing careers, families, and growth, while teaching the value of pausing and letting go of perfection. Young adults are bold and confident, challenging norms and setting boundaries, though they highlight the need for balance and flexibility. And adolescents are curious and passionate, reminding me to stay open to change and new possibilities. Each generation offers unique strengths that inspire me to learn and grow.
My motto? ‘Work with what you’ve got.’ Life is about embracing your reality, improving what you can, and building on your strengths to become your best self. It’s a constant work in progress, and the key is to keep learning and growing. Focus on what you can control, work on your part, and let go of what’s beyond your control.
You won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, and that’s okay. Find those who uplift you and value your contribution, while accepting and not judging others. Every connection can teach us something if we stay open. This motto is a reminder to live authentically, with resilience and self-awareness. Work with what you’ve got, and you’ll be amazed at what you can achieve. ■
Interview: Hannah Gay Photography: Supplied
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A D IN D EX
BizCover 18
Costec / NeoGen 33
11
Dr. Spiller 2, 3, 53
Elleebana 64, 65
IMAGE Skincare 4, 5
INSKIN COSMEDICS 40, 41
Intraceuticals 13
Lycon 75
ManukaRx 81
Natural Look Australia 8, 9, 83
Payot 6, 7
Professional Beauty Solutions 37, 43
Pure Fiji 1, 22, 23, 24, 25, 84
Synergie Skin 47
Ultraderm 17
Venus 33
Zhav International 60, 61
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