Professional Beauty March-April 2018

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MAR•APR 2018 INFORMATION. INNOVATION. INSPIRATION.

FACE(BOOK) THE FACTS Why it’s not your clinic’s friend

THE WAY SHE BUYS Swinging between logic and emotion

ACTIVE DELIVERIES Test tube vs real skin


DERMO-MIMETIC

Pro-Youth Program The next generation beyond anti-ageing skincare... with botanical active ingredients and new generation peptides

Ă&#x;P3. Tri-complex saffron-sophora-peptides *

Exclusively in clinics & spas


Wrinkle zone

NEW DERMO-MIMETIC

PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT At the cutting edge of innovative skin care in the era of dermo-aesthetic technology. › 1 - Fight oxidative stress Lift zone

› 2 - Fight the signs of chronological ageing

Lose up to 6 years off your visible skin age in 3 professional intensive treatments!

IMAGE OF AVERAGE RESULTS

BEFORE THE COURSE

SOTHYS ADVANCED

RESEARCH

SAFFRON

SOPHORA

P E P T I D E S*

Phone: 1800 816 599 www.sothys.com.au (1) Visioscan image. Average result obtained for the reduction in the number of wrinkles (-16%) 1 week after a course of 3 Treatments. (2) Self-evaluation after 1 week and then after a course of 3 Treatments: up to 6.2 years off the skin.

AFTER THE COURSE OF 3 TREATMENTS + 1 WEEK OF CONTINUING EFFECTS


NEW APPROACH TO CELLULAR ANTI-AGEING

SUPRÊME JEUNESSE High Concentration of Powerful Anti-ageing Care

THE MOST PRECIOUS OF N AT U R E ’ S TREASURES ENHANCED BY SCIENCE

IMMEDIATE VISIBLE RESULTS CLINICALLY TESTED Skin is rmer 78% More even complexion 91% Wrinkles reduced 65% Skin texture improved 91% Skin sublimated 78% Source : Clinical study under dermatological control on 23 subjects. Twice-daily application for 28 days.

EXCLUSIVE TO YOUR PAYOT SALON & SPA


As seen in H Payot w arpers Bazaa r ant to s end YO & Vogue maga U New z Custom ines ers


CONTENTS

March/April 2018 PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA BHA MEDIA MANAGING DIRECTOR Glenn Silburn GUEST/BEAUTY EDITOR Michelle Ruzzene mruzzene@intermedia.com.au ONLINE AND NEWS EDITOR Jenny Berich jberich@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY JOURNALISTS Ruth Cooper rcooper@intermedia.com.au Charlotte Cowan ccowan@intermedianz.co.nz NATIONAL ADVERTISING MANAGER Kelly Kilic kkilic@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper

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GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic

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HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 9,038 AMAA/CAB Publisher Statement Period ending 30 Sept 2017.

Copyright © 2018 BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.

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76 This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.


MANAGING EDITOR’S LETTER

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News Cover story Skincare – new products Jeepers peepers – eye creams The bright side 60 Seconds with … Payot Grape escape with Uspa Acne treatment update Delivery systems of actives It’s time to delegate Makeup - new products Eyeliners to slay with Gold - can you dig it? Going great guns Industry Roundtable education and training Science and nature Nails - new products Clearest blue Autumn hues The three ‘C’s of nail care Sculpting the Evo-lution Equipment - new products Waxing - new products Sharkra MediSpa Tanning - new products Turu beauty

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Professional Perceptions - salon software Spotlight on Usana Artav Australia Beauty is in the details Building a brand identity It pays to know Back to business basics Sliding doors Why she buys Get time smart Time to face(book) facts Education underpins excellence When vegies aren’t enough Healing rosacea naturally Rebel with a cause Fragrance - more than good scents Going natural Events Ad index

NOTHING IS PERMANENT but change. It’s a cliché for some people but is ringing true in the Professional Beauty office this issue. We recently farewelled Sarah Bowing, who after more than 20 years as the editor of this magazine, is embarking on an exciting new journey. We wish her all the best. Although we are saddened by Sarah’s departure, we are looking forward to welcoming our new editor, Anita Quade, to the team. Anita will officially take the helm of Professional Beauty in the May/June issue. Until then, the team and I couldn’t be more eager to share our Mar/Apr edition with you. We hope you’ll love what is a jam-packed issue, featuring our Industry Roundtable on page 45, where experienced thought leaders tackle the big topic of education and training. Don’t forget to check out the full video discussions online at professionalbeauty.com.au/roundtable. On page 76, our Professional Perceptions is focused on salon software solutions, which can potentially revolutionise a small business. Terri Vinson busts delivery ‘myths’ of cosmeceutical active ingredients on page 32, Michelle Blewett reports on changes to casual and part-time entitlements on page 90, and Jonathan Carroll explains why Facebook will NOT be your clinic’s friend on page 100. We are honoured to share the work of so many committed, thoughtful and experienced people in this magazine and thank you all for your continued support. Here’s to a beauty-ful 2018. Guest editor Michelle Ruzzene

ON THE COVER

Pelactiv has delivered one of the most advanced, effective, active and resultsdriven product range with the Vitamin A Treatment System. Dry, flaky skin, skin is a thing of the past as the system offers maximum results without any downtime.

FOLLOW US:

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NEWS

ROXY REVEALS ROXY TAN

Roxy Jacenko, the queen of Australian PR and brand ambassador for Skinny Tan, unveiled her new eponymously-named self-tanner at a lavish Valentines Day lunch in Sydney. During the lunch, Roxy told beauty writers and influencers that Roxy Tan is a darker version of Skinny Tan’s popular 7 Day Tanner which is available in ‘Medium’ and ‘Dark’. Roxy said she “fell in love” with the 7 Day Tanner as soon as she tried it. “I’ve used so many tanning products, but Skinny Tan’s 7 Day Tanner is my favourite as it’s so easy to use, it never streaks and there’s no fake tan smell,” she said. “I like to be super dark so I usually just two to three coats of 7 Day Tanner in Dark, but I run four businesses (Sweaty Betty, Ministry of Talent, Pixie Bows and Social Union) and have two small children, so I don’t always have the time. “I therefore spoke to the Skinny Tan team who said we could launch the same creamy streak-free formulation that I love in a darker shade, which was music to my ears…as is anything that will save me time and keep me looking good. “It’s so easy to use and it’s my way of staying bronzed without damaging my skin in the sun.” Skinny Tan PR manager Monica Tarca added that the company’s collaboration with Roxy to create the ‘Ultimate Dark’ self-tanner was super exciting. “We can’t wait to hear what our customers think,” she said. “Our Skinny Tanners love that our formulations are cruelty-free, vegan-friendly and derived from natural ingredients and we think they are going to love how easy to use this creamy, streak-free formula applies to the skin and how dark the colour is even more.”

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LIQUID LASER MOVES INTO SALONS

Alpha-H is transforming its popular Liquid Laser skincare range from a consumer brand to a professional salon-only brand. Launched in 2014, the Liquid Laser range has, until now, being sold onand offline in major beauty retailers around Australia including sephora.com. au and adorebeauty.com.au as well as beauty salons and clinics. Director Michelle Doherty said the brand’s move into the professional market will give salons and clinics “the opportunity to build their own franchises under the Alpha-H banner”. “They will benefit from our 28 years of industry experience, knowledge, research and development, reputation and clinical trials,” she said. The new Liquid Laser Prescriptive range features eight products: a cleansing oil, a concentrate, anti-ageing balm, CHA Peel (50 percent combination hydroxy suspended in hyaluronic acid), vitamin A 2% serum, overnight cell energiser, overnight treatment mask (15 percent Glycolic with 1 percent retinol) and Liquid Laser HA 100%. Designed for “advanced clinical treatments as well as pre-and-post treatment home care”, the range incorporates “a wide array of clinically validated cell-communicating ingredients sourced from the very best in genomic research”. In addition, the range includes “higher percentages” in its CHA peels and unbuffered vitamin C – “it’s as much about pH as it is about concentration to get outstanding results”. Michelle says the range contains “high percentages of allowable OTC actives and therefore requires a clinical diagnosis from a dermal expert before purchase”. “By making these products consultation-only we are demonstrating our accountability to consumers,” she says. “The level of activity and concentrations found within Liquid Laser Prescriptive Range combined with the expertise of a qualified skin clinician equals a controlled, measured and predictable outcome which can’t be obtained outside of the professional skin clinic.” Michelle says the initial response to the new range has been overwhelming. “Liquid Laser Prescriptive presents a great opportunity for salons to build on our success,” she said. “The range gives salons and clinics an advanced tool to meet the needs of their clients and give them an edge over their competitors. Indeed she concludes that the range is “a perfect partnership between a global success story and quality salons looking to go above and beyond”.


NEWS

UNILEVER BUYS INTO MICROBIOME MARKET

Unilever has taken its first step into the growing microbiome skincare market with the acquisition of a minority stake in Gallinée. Launched in 2016 by Marie Drago, a French pharmacist with 15 years’ experience in the skincare industry, Gallinée is “the first personal care brand to focus exclusively on the growing science of the human bacterial ecosystem”. The brand, which funded its first production run with a Kickstarter campaign, was inspired by Marie’s desire to create products that support the skin’s good bacteria “with a combination of probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics”. The brand is now stocked in department stores and pharmacies in France and the UK as well as online, and will soon be available on Zalando Germany and QVC France.

INIKA RIDES HIGH ON NATURAL GROWTH

Inika Organic sales grew 42 percent across Australia and by more than 52 percent globally last year, according to local distributor Total Beauty Network. Speaking at TBN’s annual sales conference, CEO Tony Rechtman said “a really revamped look” was one of the key drivers behind the “phenomenal sales results”. “We elevated the sophistication of our key brand images, including three different personalities across our main beauty visuals,” he said. “We invested heavily in eye-catching and functional point-of-sale and salon displays and elevated our PR and partnerships programs to the point where we are now being contacted daily by wonderful like-minded influencers, from all over the world, who want to work closely with us.” He said the company also launched “some truly innovative, globally leading products” such as its new Long Lash Vegan Mascara and Certified Organic Liquid Eyeliner which “outperform all others in the market” although “mascara and liquid eyeliner are two of the most notoriously difficult natural products to get right”. “This strong innovation across our formula categories has seen us enjoy huge uptake in all markets,” he said.

L’ORÉAL GIVES THUMBS UP TO SUN PROTECTION

L’Oréal launched the world’s first battery-free wearable electronic UV sensor in Las Vegas. Less than two millimetres thick and nine millimetres in diameter, UV Sense is designed to be worn for up to two weeks on the thumbnail – and can store up to three months of data. Powered by the user’s mobile phone and activated by UVA and UVB rays, UV Sense has an accompanying mobile app which translates and transfers data from the sensor and then delivers “consumer-friendly information detailing when the wearer should be mindful of UV exposure”. The unveiling of UV sense follows the company’s launch of My UV Patch, the first-ever stretchable skin sensor designed to monitor UV exposure, in 2016. Since then L’Oréal has distributed more than one million patches free of charge under its La Roche-Posay brand to consumers in 37 countries to encourage sun safe behaviours. According to L’Oréal, My UV Patch users change their behaviours – with 34 percent applying sunscreen more often and 37 percent trying to stay in the shade more frequently – but they want a smaller wearable with longer wear and real-time data. Building on the design of the original patch, L’Oréal therefore created UV Sense based on research in conjunction with MC10, a leading wearable technology company, and Professor John Rogers at Northwestern University who has “a portfolio of intellectual property and innovation around flexible, stretchable electronics”. UV Sense will be available on a limited basis in the US this year with a global launch following in 2019. It is expected to retail for less than US$100.

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NEWS

BROW QUEEN MOVES INTO LASH MARKET

Amy Jean, Australia’s leading eyebrow artist, has moved into the lash market with the launch of a ‘lash elevate’ kit. Amy Jean, who opened her first brow salon 13 years ago, now has Amy Jean Eye Couture in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and the Gold Coast and regularly conducts pop-up salons internationally in luxury hotels like Plaza Athénée in Paris, Dorchester Hotel Spa in London, Bulgari Hotel in Milan and the Plaza Hotel in New York. Amy Jean says she decided to expand into the lash market as there was an obvious need for “something more than just mascara to enhance women’s lashes” and “lash extensions are simply not a suitable option for everyone”. She says the new kit, which she uses in her own boutiques and is wholesaling to other salons, is “the holy grail of lash treatments” providing “lusciously lifted and curled lashes that are totally low maintenance” and last for eight to12 weeks. “The Lash Elevate with Keratin treatment is a game changer particularly for women who lust after darker, longer lashes, but can’t face the high maintenance factor of extensions. “The lifting effect is so powerful, most women are totally awed that their natural lashes could ever have such incredible wow factor, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary – and they wake up every day with lashes that rival a good set of falsies. “In addition, not only does the treatment tint, lift and curl natural lashes, but the keratin in the final step improves the strength and health of the lashes at the same time.” Packaged in a display box, The Lash Elevate Kit contains perming solution, setting solution, nourishing oil, bonding agent, 4 different sized molds, keratin strengthening solution and five lint-free eye pads.

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BABOR CELEBRATES DIVERSITY

Babor has partnered with All Woman Project, a non-profit organisation dedicated to helping women and girls feel positive, empowered and confident about themselves, to “celebrate the beauty of diversity”. Under the new partnership, the German skincare brand has created an awareness campaign featuring images of “inspiring women” which have not been retouched or Photoshopped. The company has also launched a limited edition AWPxBABOR Beauty Ampoule Set to “empower women at any age to have their best skin”. Babor will donate 50 percent of all sales of the US$40 set to the AWP.

KYLIE RULES MAKEUP WORLD – FOR NOW

Kylie Jenner is celebrating the birth of her first child and the continued success of her other ‘baby’ – the Kylie Cosmetics range. Launched two years ago after her initial foray into the makeup market with a “wildly successful” lip kit, the range has since expanded to include an extensive collection of “cosmetic secrets” including ‘kyshadow’ palettes and ‘kylighter’ compacts. And despite the launch of Fenty Beauty by Rihanna in September, Kylie Cosmetics has managed to retain the top spot in celebrity brand makeup sales – although perhaps not for much longer. According to Slice Media, which collates data from a panel of over 5.5 million online shoppers, Kylie Cosmetics topped celebrity makeup sales for the 12 months from November 2016 to October 2017. “Kylie Cosmetics dominated the ‘diva’ brands analysed in sales but Fenty has only been around since September 2017,” explained Slice Media marketing communication manager Amanda Miyahira. “If we take a look at sales since Fenty’s launch, Fenty revenue was just over five times that of Kylie Cosmetics in September and more than 31.7 percent more than Kylie Cosmetics in October.” She stressed that although buyers of the brands Kylie Cosmetics, KKW Beauty (Kim Kardashian West), Fenty Beauty (Rihanna), and Kat Von D represent only 12 percent of cosmetics category shoppers, they account for 29.2 percent of revenue in the category.


NEWS

SELFIES CONTINUE TO DRIVE SURGERY DEMAND

‘Selfie-awareness’ is one of the leading drivers in the growing demand for cosmetic surgery, according to The American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. The latest survey by the academy, which is the world’s largest association of facial plastic surgeons, reports that “for better or worse, selfie-awareness is more than a fad” as 55 percent of facial plastic surgeons saw patients who want to look better in selfies in their practices last year –13 percent more than in 2016. AAFPRS president William Truswell says members have been at the forefront of the trend since it was first identified in the academy’s 2014 survey. “More and more of our patients are using social media as a forum to gain a sense of solidarity when under-going a major, potentially life-changing procedure,” he says. “Consumers are only a swipe away from finding love and a new look, and this movement is only going to get stronger.” Key survey findings include: • More than half (56 percent) of members saw an increase in cosmetic surgery or injectables with patients under age 30. • More than four-fifths of treatments were non-surgical procedures. • A natural-looking outcome is paramount for patients, with 33 percent stating ‘a fear of looking unnatural’ as their top concern. • 57 percent of surgeons reported patients’ desire to stay relevant and competitive at work as a major driver in their decision to have a cosmetic treatment. • Eyelid procedures to look less tired were reported as a rising trend by 73 percent of members along with combined non-surgical procedures by 72 percent of members. • Botox (Allergan), along with Dysport (Galderma) and Xeomin (Merz) were the most popular minimally invasive procedures followed by fillers and skin treatments.

OZ CANNABIS COMPANY SIGNS GLOBAL DEAL WA-based MGC Pharmaceuticals has signed a deal with international online retailer Cult Beauty to distribute its cannabis-based skincare range. Under the agreement, the company’s European subsidiary, MGC Derma, will see 15 of its cannabidiol (CBD) cosmetic products and its Derma Plus skincare range sold on cultbeauty.com. MGC Pharmaceuticals CEO Roby Zomer said the agreement will enable the company to market its “growing range of CBD-based skincare products to a new and more diverse global cosmetics market”. Headquartered in Perth with manufacturing facilities in Slovenia, MGC Pharmaceuticals is a publicly-listed company focused on the global cannabinoids market. MGC Derma, its cosmetics division, has partnered with Dr. Burstein Cosmetics, a manufacturer of numerous high-end cosmetic lines, to launch three lines of CBD skincare products – Anti-Ageing, Essentials and Derma Plus.

MISS WORLD SET TO GLOW

Miss World Australia will be glowing with a “non-sticky and streak-free” Mediterranean Tan when she is crowned in July this year. Under the brand’s platinum sponsorship of the 2018 Miss World Australia beauty pageant, the winner and all the contestants will be using its spray tan while competing in the finals and the crowning ceremony. Mediterranean Tan founder Andrea Taylor says the event has a longstanding reputation for inspiring women to make the world a better place through extensive charity work and various philanthropic ventures. She says “it was no surprise” that Miss World Australia selected Mediterranean Tan as its major tanning sponsor as the brand has “an industry reputation as the leader in ground-breaking tanning products combined with five years’ experience supplying spray tan to the Australian and global market”.

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COVER STORY

STRAIGHT A’s

in Skincare

BEFORE

Pelactiv introduces new innovations in Vitamin A skincare with Advanced Treatment System. AFTER WE LISTEN TO our clients carefully. They ask – and we do our best to deliver. Our clients asked for a Vitamin A treatment system, and we delivered what we believe to be one of the most advanced, effective, active and results driven product ranges. The difference? There is no ‘downtime’ with dry, flaky skin, red patches and irritation. The Pelactiv Vitamin A Advanced Treatment System offers maximum results plus the advantage of brighter, firmer, healthier looking skin after only a couple of weeks of usage. Let’s look at the benefits of Vitamin A;

Why Vitamin A? Whether you get Vitamin A from your diet or in your skincare, the protective and nourishing properties of Vitamin A and the nutrients your body uses to make it, play a leading role in keeping skin healthy, firm and radiant. Vitamin A as a topical skin ingredient is capable of reprogramming cellular function. It promotes normal keratinisation (the turnover of skin cells). It is known to regulate cellular behavior and works by normalising skin functions, so therefore has the ability to correct skin conditions. Retinol, accompanied by humectants Sodium PCA and Sodium Hyaluronate, provides the skin with protection from water loss.

Why Pelactiv? Pelactiv have taken this treatment system to the next level by developing a unique Preparation Oil and Corrective Serum. The synergy of these two products not only delivers outstanding results, but ensures even sensitised skins are able to use it without harsh side effects. Pelactiv have formulated this Advanced Treatment System with pure cosmetic Retinol and Vitamin A Palmitate. Why? The Retinol that has been used in Pelactiv products is nonencapsulated, therefore provides a better absorbtion through skin and Vitamin A Palmitate is the most stable form of Vitamin A. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Pelactiv product without combining the wonderful regenerative, healing and hydrating properties derived from our beautiful Australian native botanicals. This fusion of science and nature has ensured that Pelactiv continue to provide beautiful, technologically advanced products with a twist of natural goodness.

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Vitamin A Retinol is the cosmeceutical form of Vitamin A. It is the purest form of Vitamin A. It is used to slow the effects of ageing. Retinol helps to resurface and rejuvenate the skin, giving you glowing, vibrant skin that is clear and youthful. When Retinol is applied to skin, it is converted into Retinoic Acid. Skin loves Retinoic Acid because it communicates with our cells. Retinol’s molecular structure is very small, these tiny molecules have the ability to penetrate the epidermis and work to repair the dermis where collagen and elastin reside. Vitamin A in this form has the ability to improve the elasticity of the skin and smooth wrinkles and fine lines, reducing their appearance. As we age, skin cells can gradually take on an altered shape. However, these same cells have receptor sites that will quickly accept Retinoic Acid. As the Retinoic Acid is absorbed, the cell begins to function normally and will resume cell generation that is normal. Vitamin A Palmitate (Retinyl Palmitate) is the ester of Retinol and Palmitic Acid. It is used for its antioxidant properties. It promotes the enzyme activity in the skin. It thickens the epidermis and can regenerate skin prematurely that has been aged by UV-radiation. This product can also assist in increasing the skin’s elasticity and the reversal of photo-damage. Note: Vitamin A is not suitable for women who are pregnant or lactating, we recommend you seek the advice of a health care professional.

Australian Native Plant Extracts Alongside the active ingredient of Retinol, Pelactiv have stayed true to their philosophy of using a fusion of science and nature together to deliver the safest, fastest and most visible results. The synergy of these ingredients will ensure the maintenance of visibly healthy skin. AHAs have a ‘pull’ action which works on the skin surface to exfoliate and brighten it, whereas Retinol has a ‘push’ action to renew cell growth deep in the basal layer. Lilly Pilly (Syzygium Luehmannii) Lilly Pilly, or Syzygium Luehmannii, is a medium-sized coastal rainforest tree native to Australia. Indigenous Australians traditionally used Lilly Pilly for its excellent healing and antibacterial properties. Lilly Pilly extract is a powerful antioxidant, high in Vitamin C and fruit acid, helping maintain skin health and develop collagen.


COVER STORY

Quandong (Santalum acuminatum) Quandong is widely dispersed throughout the central deserts and southern areas of Australia. Due to its high Vitamin C content (even higher than oranges), the Quandong fruit was an essential food source for Indigenous Australians and was also used for its medicinal properties to treat skin sores, boils and aid in the effects of rheumatism. In particular, Quandong extract was well known for its antibacterial properties. Contains active ingredients such as phenolic acids that behave like an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) and can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, and rutin to strengthen capillaries. Phenolic Acids These acids contain anti-microbial, antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Rutin A strong antioxidant that can reduce the creation of free radicals. Works in synergy with Vitamin C, inhibiting Vitamin C to oxidise and become a free radical and intensifying the antioxidant activity of Vitamin C.

RETAIL RANGE

RETINOL A SERUM + SNAP 8 30ML This dual action serum combines patented Snap 8 plus Retinol to provide a targeted and anti-ageing treatment serum unlike any other. Snap 8 works to reduce the depth of wrinkles on the face by mimicking the effects of Botulinum Toxin. Retinol A is proven to restore skin clarity, texture and firmness. This youth enhancing serum reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while improving skin elasticity and texture. Benefits: Key ingredient SNAP-8 prevents the release of neurotransmitters and therefore reduces the intensity of muscle contractions that contribute to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol repairs and exfoliates. Lilly Pilly and Quandong, high in antioxidants, heal and strengthen the skin.

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ULTIMATE REPAIR DAY CREAM, 50ML Nourishing and repairing, this age prevention day cream works to restore skin health and clarity. Benefits: Retinol combats visible signs of ageing. Powerful antioxidants from Lilly Pilly and Quandong repair and restore. Hyaluronic acid adds intense hydration. Vitamin E conditions the skin. Lilly Pilly and Quandong, high in antioxidants, heal and strengthen the skin. l

VITA A TRIPLE ACTION CLEANSER, 150ML This luxurious foaming milk cleanser offers a unique, triple action performance which removes impurities, while leaving skin soft and hydrated. Benefits: Exfoliating and hydrating maintaining moisture levels and does not strip the skin of its natural oils. Retinol and Lactic Acid exfoliate the skin providing a deep cleanse and intense hydration. Antioxidant loaded Lilly Pilly and Quandong heal and strengthen the skin. l

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RETINOL CORRECT NIGHT CREAM, 50ML Advanced treatment night cream containing Retinol, peptides and youth activating ingredients to visibly repair, renew and regenerate healthy skin. Benefits: Regenerates the skin overnight exfoliating the skin while you sleep. Encourages collagen production, healing and strengthening the skin. Effective in re-hydrating the skin and restoring moisture levels. High in antioxidants protecting the skin from ageing. The Pelactiv Advanced Treatment Vitamin A Range was formulated to give you the best results, in the minimum of time – with no downtime. Five innovative products that work in synergy to deliver optimum results. n l

RETINOL A PREPARATION OIL, 30ML Retinol A Preparation Oil is a specifically selected blend of botanical oils rich in antioxidants, fatty acids and BHA’s that exfoliate the skin while simultaneously reducing the skins pH therefore creating a multi-tiered pathway for the delivery of Retinol A Serum + Snap 8. Benefits: Highly effective in maintaining skin’s barrier function and moisture levels. Vitamin A Palmitate promotes enzyme activity in the skin. Salicylic Acid exfoliates the skin allowing the Retinol A Serum to penetrate deeper into the skin. A primer for the skin prior to application of Retinol A Serum + Snap 8.

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For more information on becoming a Pelactiv stockist please email sales@pelactiv. com or phone (02) 84225000 and speak with one of our friendly Skincare Therapists today. www.pelactiv.com

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SKINCARE | NEW

Thalgo Hydra-Marine Gel-Balm - BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200

Phyt’s Panacée Global Anti-Ageing Cream Phyt’s 1300 656 627

Pelactiv Vitamin A Triple Action Cleanser Pelactiv 1800 655 745

PCA Skin Retinol Treatment Sensitive Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851

Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Ant-Aging Serum - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Uspa Deep Cleansing Mud Mask Uspa 03 8773 3517

Murad Environmental Shield City Skin Age Defense SPF15 Murad 1800 687 237

Organic Nation Eye Matrix Cream - Organic Nation 03 5989 6259 Usana Celavive Vitalizing Serum Usana 02 9842 4500

Bioelements Collagen Rehab Mask Absolute Spa 1300 262 275

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DNA Renewal DNA Eye Balm - Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Revision Skincare Nectifirm Advanced Revision Skincare icarroll@revisionskincare.com


THE DNA RENEWAL DIFFERENCE: DNA Renewal offers a range of anti-ageing skin care formulated by world-renowned dermatologist Dr. Ronald Moy. The range has the highest levels of active ingredients for optimal performance with proven clinical results. It works to effectively help repair photo-damaged DNARenewal: THE FOUNDER ageing skin using high concentrations of DNA Repair Enzymes and Growth Factors.

Dr. Ronald L. Moy, renowned scientist, researcher, dermatologist, and cosmetic surgeon, has dedicated his life’s work to understanding the impact of photo damage on skin’s health and aging.

Today, DNARenewal marks the culmination of his passion to create a clinically proven regimen that Clinically proven to help repair photodamaged ageing skin effectively helps repair photodamaged aging skin.

www.dnarenewal.com.au


SKINCARE | NEW Sothys Hydra3 Ha Creme Hydratante Jeunesse Sothys 1800 816 599

Medik8 Ultimate Recovery Bio-Cellulose Zinc Mask - Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Endota New Age Peptide Firming Moisturiser Endota Spa 03 5971 8700

Aspect Dr AHA BHA Cleanser - Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851

Dermalogica Barrier Defense Booster Dermalogica 1800 659 118

Alpha H Liquid Gold Firming Eye Cream Alpha H 07 5529 4866

Dr Natasha Cook Concentrated Spot Destroyer - Dr Natasha Cook 02 9247 2887

Dermaenergy Light As A Feather Moisturiser Dermaenergy 1300 85 44 83

Mukti Organics Bioactive Body Elixir - Mukti Organics 1300 306 554

Guinot Hydra Summum Guinot Paris 1300 300 954

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Babor Ampoule Collagen Booster Babor 1800 139 139


EXPERIENCE RESULTS Formulated to target your unique beauty needs, USANA Celavive® will dramatically fight the visible signs of ageing and revitalise the look of your complexion.

B E FO R E

AFTER

B E FO R E

AFTER

Celavive has been tested to evaluate the power of these high-performance products.

REPLENISHING NIGHT CREAM Almost 70% less water loss in the first 30 minutes observed.

P E R F E C T I N G TO N E R Nearly 180% increase in moisture within the first 30 minutes observed.

P R O D U C T U SAG E R E S U LTS Participants using the Hydrating Eye Essence noticed visible improvements to the appearance of crow’s feet surrounding their eyes in as little as two weeks.

BUT D ON ’ T TA KE OUR WOR D FOR IT. EXP ER IEN C E C EL AVI V E TODAY A N D SEE T HE R ESULTS FOR YOUR SEL F. For more information visit www.celavive.com To connect with a Celavive Ambassador contact celaviveambassador@au.usana.com /celavive

V I TA L I Z I N G S E R U M Noticed that skin firmness appeared two times greater after application.

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SKINCARE

Jeepers

PEEPERS

You won’t believe your eyes once you see the transformative effects of these powerful eye creams.

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SKINCARE

LEFT DNA Eye Renewal – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Cosmedix Eye Genius Brilliant Eye Complex – Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Artdeco Skin Performance Collagen Rich Eye Cream & Mask – United Brands Australia 1300 552 924 emerginC Scientific Organics Eyelight Cream – InSkin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188 Dermalogica Intensive Eye Repair – Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Clarins Multi-Active Eye Reviver – Clarins 02 9663 4277 Dermaviduals Eye Cream – Dermaviduals 1300 420 223 ABOVE Eve Taylor Advanced Eye Complex – Eve Taylor 1300 383 829 ESK Eye Serum – ESK Care 1300 884 875 Endota Spa Organics Advanced Eye Contour Cream – Endota Spa 03 5971 8700 DMK Limited Eye Web – DMK 1300 00 SKIN Obagi ELASTIderm Eye Cream – Obagi 0417 384 258 Fillerina Lip Cream and Eye Contour Cream – Architects of Skin 1300 068 357 Ella Baché Eternal Beautifying Eye Cream – Ella Baché 1800 789 234

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SKINCARE

O Cosmedics Eye Correct – InSkin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188 Germaine De Capuccini Timexpert LIFT(IN) Supreme Definition Eye Contour – Germaine De Capuccini 1300 432 100 Guinot Longue Vie Yeux Smoothing Eye Care – Guinot Paris 1300 300 954 Ginger&Me Quinoa Lift & Hydrate Eye Cream – InSkin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188 Mesoestetic Radiance DNA Eye Contour – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 June Jacobs Cellular Collagen Eye Serum – June Jacobs 02 8880 9446 Medik8 Hydr8 Night Eye – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 MitoQ Eye Renew – MitoQ 0439 876 099

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SKINCARE

Pevonia Botanica Power Repair Eye Contour – Universal Aesthetics 02 9948 1667 Teoxane R[II] Eyes – Mondeal Aesthetics 1800 633 83 Synergie Skin ImprovEyes Night – Synergie Skin 1300 689 619 Skinstitut Eye Believe – Skinstitut 02 9460 7559 Pelactiv Vita C+ Intensive Eye Complex – The Australian Skin Care Company 1800 655 745 Peter Thomas Roth Instant FIRMx Eye – Peter Thomas Roth 02 8880 9446 PCA Skin Ideal Complex Restorative Eye Cream – Advanced Skin Technology 03 8769 0800 Madara Eye Contour Cream – Bio Beauty Australia 02 9599 0423

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SKINCARE

The

BRIGHT Bergamo Specialist Facial Serum S.9 Collagen Wrinkle Care – GlamaCo 1300 343 572 Ella Baché Serum Antiase Ella Baché 1800 789 234 Clayspray Brightening White Clay Masque Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Bodyography Skin Brightening and Balancing Toner – Bodyography 1300 263 964 Eve Taylor - C+ Bright Moisturiser Eve Taylor 1300 383 829 Dermaenergy For Brighter Days Serum Dermaenergy 1300 85 44 83 Biologi Bd Luminosity Face Serum Biologi wholesale@biologi.com.au Iluma by Image Skincare Intense Brightening Creme – Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Eminence Bright Skin Overnight Correcting Cream – Eminence Organics 07 3357 6277 Intraceuticals Moisture Brightening Cream Intraceuticals 03 9822 2011

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SKINCARE

SIDE Reduce dark spots and even out skin tone with these brightening masks, creams, and serums.

Pevonia Lumablanc Cream Universal Aesthetics 02 9948 1667 Luzern Pure Oxygen Radiance Mask Luzern 1300 367 969 Sothys [W]+ Brightening Fluid Sothys Paris 1800 816 599 Obagi-C Professional C Serum 20% Obagi 0417 384 258 Payot Uni Skin Concentre Perles Illuminating Perfecting Serum – Payot 02 9874 1166 Pinkini Lightening Serum – Lycon 07 3004 6200 Vie Photo-C Bright Radiance Mask Vie Collection 02 9099 0387 Mesoestetic Energy C Intensive Cream Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Ultraceuticals Ultra Brightening Serum Ultraceuticals 1800 355 890 Medik8 White Balance Click Intense Brightening Serum – Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

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customised treatments delivering unparalleled results Personalised skin treatments – built around lifestyle and skin concerns.


30 our targeted treatment, in a time-efficient 30 minutes Dermalogica Experts work with clients to target clients’ top skin concern with this high-impact service. Repair signs of ageing, clear breakouts or resurface skin for a healthy glow. In just 30 minutes!

60 the ultimate treatment, different every time Ideal for clients looking for the utmost bespoke treatment experience with hightech, high-touch and professional-grade products. This service targets multiple skin concerns and customer wellness in 60 minutes and is different every time.

Discover more at dermalogica.com.au or call us on 1800 659 118


60 SECONDS WITH

MARIE-LAURE SIMONIN BRAUN French skincare company Payot began almost a century ago with female doctor Nadia Payot. It continues today with president and skin biologist Marie-Laure Simonin Braun, who talks science-led skincare and the French approach to ageing with Professional Beauty. What first attracted you to Payot? Payot is a brand with a strong legacy and I was attracted by the challenge to give back to an authentic French brand and help it achieve the place it deserves among the successful skincare brands of the 21st century.

How does your background in skin biology influence your work? Now more than ever you have to be agile and quick to embrace cutting-edge technology. My background gives me the ability to have a precise understanding of the latest scientific researches and to coordinate the product development team to bring innovation to life faster.

Payot has a reputation for science-led skincare. How does Payot develop new products? Creative sharing and co-creation are probably our secret ingredients. Our in-house laboratory is fully integrated within the marketing and business teams, which allows for fast communication and a unique richness in the conceptualisation and development of a product. In addition, Payot has a consumer-centric vision and we do not hesitate to put our consumers at the heart of the development and to solicit them to become actors in the creation of a product. For example, this spring we are launching a Gelée Nettoyante in our Pate Grise line, and both the formula and packaging were selected by consumers via our social media platforms.

What are some interesting innovations Payot has made in skincare? The importance of taking care of skin flora and its balance is probably one of our latest innovations.

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We recently launched two new products within our emblematic Crème N°2 line, which include probiotics and prebiotics to protect and rebalance beneficial bacteria already present on the skin’s surface. By protecting the microbiome we are strengthening the skin’s barrier function and helping it to fight against external aggressions. It is the perfect answer to rescue the most sensitive skin with anti-stress and anti-redness benefits.

What is the French approach to beauty and ageing? For French women, makeup is not used to hide skin problem as you sometimes see in the Anglo-Saxon tendencies or habits. To get beautiful skin you have to take care of it and French women learn very young how to do this. Removing makeup every day, scrubbing with the right gestures, even practicing some daily facial gymnastics and using refined formulas adapted to specific skin conditions are part of their daily beauty routine. French women can also rely on the expert hands of their beauty therapists for a deep stimulation of the skin tissues, like with Payot’s unique 42 steps massage. A good daily routine and regular visits to a spa or beauty salon are our secrets for beautiful, young looking skin.

What is your vision for the future of Payot? We will live longer and we will try to age as best as possible by preserving, among other things, a beautiful skin. We made the bold choice of ‘beauty in motion’ as opposed to ‘frozen beauty’. It’s part of our DNA to encourage women to live and experience free, moving beauty while providing real long-term gratification. The concept is global for Payot and we cherish being a beauty coach and teaching women how to correctly apply product and sharing with them the everyday fun of Gym Beaute facial exercises. It is important for Payot in the future to deliver a message of daily well-being while upholding its legacy as a brand started by one of the first female doctors of her generation, Nadia Payot. n www.payot.com 02 9874 1166


®


SALON PROFILE

Grape

ESCAPE Mitchelton Day Spa, set overlooking spectacular vineyards, is the perfect place to unwind the body and the mind, writes Michelle Ruzzene. MITCHELTON DAY SPA has only been open a few months but is fast becoming known as a must-visit salon for those looking for something extra special. Located on the top floor of the Mitchelton Hotel, situated at the Mitchelton Estate on the banks of the Goulburn River, it’s framed by an idyllic vista of rolling vineyards, pristine waterways and verdant native bushlands. Open in December 2017, the day spa was created to add a sense of luxury and service to the 58-room hotel designed by internationally renowned architecture and interior design firm Hecker Guthrie. Pre-opening spa manager Sue Teppitak, who oversees day-to-day operations and has 20 years solid spa background, said it was the ideal place to unwind in the tranquil confines of nature’s surroundings. “Featuring a consciously created assortment of botanical therapies, our spa treatments have been designed to capture the serenity of the Goulburn Valley,” she explained. Sue said the spa had a philosophy of holistic nourishment, which is why they chose to stock Uspa products. “Uspa is a pure, local, natural skincare collection favouring the healing powers of plants and herbs,” she said. “Ready to restore and rejuvenate skin and spirit, Uspa’s harmonious blends coupled with our signature treatments promote wellbeing, vitality and radiance from the outside in.” Spa, retreat and wellness consultant Sonja Sorich provided spa consulting services from conceptual development through to pre-opening, spa design, spa concepts, brand identity, spa menu design, business strategy, spa training and spa management. A staff of five, who have been involved since the preopening of the spa, treat clients in one of the four treatments rooms, which includes a couple’s room.

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The are an additional two relaxing spaces in the spa. Sue said a variety of clientele frequented the spa, including girls having a spa soirée for a hen’s party or birthday, wedding parties, mums-to-be, couples, men, special care customers and even children and teens. “We have been well supported by the local market and are also seeing visitors who live within two hours’ drive from the day spa including Melburnians who seek rural enjoyment and spa escape during weekends,” she said. “We attract clients that want to enjoy a beautiful space and are receptive to a variety of treatments.” Sue said the top three treatments were the Wellness Infusion Massage (60min), Reawaken Ritual (90min) and Escape Ritual (120min),that were all Uspa customised treatments. Sue said one thing clients particularly loved about the spa was the ambience. “Our spa ambience is the most serene, relaxing and welcoming with a spacious relaxation lounge where people can sit and relax whole day reading positive books,” she said. “This area exposes to such a uniquely spectacular view of the Mitchelton Winery and of the Goulburn River.” When asked what her favourite products were from the Uspa range, Sue was quick to respond. “Definitely the Pure C Complex Serum and the Age Defying Elixir,” she said. “I felt an amazing result from my first application of Pure C Serum. My skin soaked it up and much improved overnight, even more so when combined with the Age Defying Elixir.” Sue said she had a lot of positive feedback on the fresh smell of the Uspa products from clients. “Some say the products smell lovely,” she said. “They felt amazing after having Revitalising Polish and Satin Body Moisturising.” Mitchelton Day Spa is certainly the place to settle in for a treatment - and a glass of wine or two - for the ultimate in relaxation and recuperation. n Phone Mitchelton Day Spa on 03 5736 2294 or visit mitchelton.com.au/day-spa.


Welcome to SmartDrivity™ technology The intelligent fusion of 4 technologies to obtain spectacular, long-lasting results effectively and painlessly •

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Distributed by Advanced Cosmeceuticals 38 Automotive Drive Wangara WA 6065 T : 08 9409 5433 1800 242 011 NSW VIC QLD WA SA www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au


BUSINESS

Delivery systems

OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS An ingredient may be active in a test tube, but actually getting it deep enough into the skin so it can work its magic is a whole different story, writes Terri Vinson. AS A COSMETIC chemist, one of the major elements of formulating with active cosmeceuticals is to ensure delivery to the target cells. If the molecule does not reach its target, it cannot create its desired biological activity. I have become so frustrated with delivery ‘myths’ and would like to give you the facts from a scientific perspective. The stratum corneum, the outermost epidermal layer, is vital to protecting our skin, the largest body organ, from invasion by irritants, microbes and toxins. It is the role of the formulator to ensure beneficial active ingredients can penetrate this fortress.

Absorption pathways In general, ingredients can penetrate the skin via three pathways: 1. Intracellular absorption, whereby the ingredient passes directly through cells in the epidermis to reach the target. These ingredients are generally water soluble and utilise protein channels found on the cell membranes to pass solutes directly into the cells. 2. Intercellular absorption, whereby the molecules pass between the cells using the lipid matrix between the cells. There ingredients are oil soluble. 3. Follicular absorption, whereby ingredients enter the skin via direct absorption through the hair follicle.

Delivery parameters Creating a product capable of creating a visible change in the skin is a complex chemistry. The following factors should be considered when ascertaining the viability of an active ingredient:

• Molecular weight Particles over a certain molecular weight will not penetrate the outer layers. Generally, molecules over 1000 Daltons (unit of mass that quantifies mass on a molecular scale) in mass are too large

• Peptides and proteins Peptides are small chains of amino acids, usually 40 or less. A protein is a more complex threedimensional structure composed of many amino acids. From a scientific perspective, any peptide

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over ten amino acids is too large to penetrate the skin. Collagen, for example, is a complex protein of around 1000 amino acids. It concerns me that many cosmetic companies tout collagen as being an ‘active’ ingredient in many skincare products when it will never penetrate the skin.

• Liposomal encapsulation Liposomal encapsulation is a highly effective method for delivering ingredients to target cells. This involves creating a lipid envelope around the active ingredient to protect it from degradation before reaching its target in the skin. It also enables effective transport between the cells using the lipophilic (oil attracting) pathway in the stratum corneum.

• Acidity and alkalinity: pH differential The overall acidity or alkalinity has a profound effect on the penetration of an active ingredient. The natural pH of adult skin is around 5.6 which is slightly acidic. When this acid mantle is altered by ingredients that are highly acidic (AHA’s, BHA’s, L-ascorbic acid) or even highly alkaline, the penetration pathway is significantly enhanced.

• Penetration enhancers There are various penetration enhancers which cosmetic chemists use to optimise delivery of active ingredients through the skin. These include the commonly used propylene glycol, which has been recently attracting some negative attention. Many chemists as now opting for more natural enhancers such as oat beta-glucan and lecithin which also possess other positive skin benefits.

• Physical delivery (needling) Skin needling offers a simple, yet highly effective method of delivering ingredients which would otherwise be unable to penetrate. It also significantly increases the absorption of ingredients. Medical needling treatments often incorporate the addition of cosmeceuticals such as retinoids, hyaluronics, antioxidants, niacinamide and various peptides to the treatment due to the significantly increased uptake into the lower epidermis and dermis. Homecare rollers are also an excellent addition to the daily skin care regimen. With the various methods for improving the penetration of beneficial actives, it is also important to avoid the penetration of undesirable ingredient into the dermis and possibly the bloodstream. Formulators and skin specialists must be aware of avoiding questionable or potentially damaging ingredients into the skin. A sound understanding of science and the interactions of molecules with the skin is vital to creating effective cosmeceuticals.n Terri Vinson, managing director and formulator of Synergie Skin, is a cosmetic scientist with majors in immunology and microbiology, and a member of the Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. For more information visit www.synergieskin.com.


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Deadly Skins RED SKIN

POLLUTIVE SKIN

DULL SKIN

DEHYDRATED SKIN

AGED SKIN

PIGMENTED SKIN

ROUGH SKIN


BUSINESS

It’s time to DELEGATE

Learning to effectively delegate will bring a positive new dimension to you work life, you just need to take the time to do it. Emma Hobson explains. YOU MIGHT BE a perfectionist or perhaps a control freak or you may lack trust in your team… Whatever your reason for doing everything yourself it is time to let go and learn how to effectively delegate, because when you do your work life will take on a positive new dimension and you will experience freedom you’ve never felt before. You’re also likely to reduce your stress levels and be a happier person. For those of you reading this that work solo, don’t stop here because you think this topic isn’t relevant to you – it is. You can easily delegate tasks to other professionals who can support your business and free up your time. Four things to remember about the importance of delegation 1. Understand that you are not the only person capable of doing certain tasks well, and that needing other people’s help is not a negative. Instead, embrace the positives and opportunities that soliciting other people’s help brings. 2. Once you have learnt how to successfully delegate you will feel happier and less stressed, and so will your team. 3. Believe that there is no such thing as singlehanded success; each of us needs the support of others to help us reach our goals. 4. Delegation does bring greater business success and you can master it.

Delegation for effective time management All of us have tasks we love performing in our roles and these are usually the ones we don’t want to ‘give away’ for exactly that reason. However, these pleasant tasks can often easily be taken over by team members who would also ‘love’ the opportunity to do them as it would add more spice to their daily work life and allow them to feel more fulfilled.

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Delegating these tasks also frees up your calendar, allowing you to spend time focussing on key strategies that will build your business and generate revenue. It may even allow you some well-deserved personal time.

Delegation as a staff retention tool Delegating responsibility is a great opportunity to build a strong and successful team. It builds trust with your employees, it creates strong working relationships, and it allows you to coach them to develop a strong skillset. As a result, you are able to retain your team members for longer, ultimately strengthening and growing the success of your business.

Where to start: 1. Make a list of all the tasks you do that if you were in hospital and had to ask someone else to do them they could. 2. Discover your team’s strengths and interests. Review your staff ’s CVs. What did they study or excel at during school, college or university? What other jobs have they done? What hobbies or interests do they have? A couple of my team members are passionate users of Instagram, guess what I have them doing? 3. Compile a list of everything you do and how much time it takes you to do it. 4. Compile a list of tasks that no one else but you can do. Be honest with yourself – we all like to think we are superheroes but we know deep down that others can do our tasks, even if it takes a little longer or is not quite as good as what we believe we can do. 5. Now compare the two lists and tick what only you can do and what you can train others to do for you. 6. Which team members can work independently and to a given timeframe? 7. Which team members have the time to perform these responsibilities or have the extra time to take them on? Ideally you need to match the task with their current level of skill and superiority. 8. Ask your team which tasks they would like do that they are not currently responsible for. 9. Once steps 1-8 are complete it’s time to start your delegation program, matching responsibilities with skillsets and your team’s development plan. Because you can’t delegate everything all at once you need an implementation plan. Initially you’ll need to put aside time to coach and train your team member(s) on your expectations and the ‘how-to’ of the job at hand. You will need to allocate sufficient time in their day to perform the task and you’ll also need to monitor their progress and check if they require more help or training.


Don’t let this process deter you because you believe you ‘don’t have the time’. You need to prioritise and make the time. Understand how important this is to you and your business and that you will reap the rewards of your labour tenfold.

Things to remember It’s important to be very clear about your expectations for each task and the importance and meaning of the task to the business. It’s also important to be clear on the accountability of the task and what the consequences are for not completing the task on time or the possible impact it will have on other team members, customers or the business if not performed correctly. Allow people to do the task their way not your way – it doesn’t matter about the process if the result remains the same or even better. If hiccups arise during the implementation of a task, don’t just take it over, work with your team member to problem solve and wherever possible get them to resolve the issue and make it right.

The secret to perfect skin.

B EFORE

Effective communication A good starting point when delegating a task is to share with the person why they were chosen, how it will develop their skills, and the positive effect it will have on the team and the business if performed successfully. You are not dumping extra work on them but rather creating variety at work and growing their skillset. Let your staff member know they will have the time and space to do the job their way, however, you will monitor their performance and check in with them on a regular basis. Let them know you are always available to provide feedback or clarification and that you are open to a new or more effective way of performing the task. It’s important to have a structure for your delegation process. For example, will you set the tasks daily, weekly or monthly, or will you set it once and make it a continuous responsibility of the team member? When will you check in on the progress of the task? Initially? Continually? Lastly, remember that positive, defined praise is like a shot of dopamine which you need to administer regularly if you want the job to be continuously done well. Consider giving your staff different rewards like external training courses to develop their skillset, praising their efforts in front of other team members, giving an employee of the month award, financial incentives, etc. After reading this article are you inspired to implement or shake up your delegation strategy or are you keeping delegation in your ‘too hard basket’? All I can say is that delegation in the short term does require extra work and effort on your part, however, delegation in the long run will free up your time. It gives you the freedom to work on your business not in your business, it will help retain your staff, keep them happy, develop their skills, create happier customers, and build your business and financial success. n

A F TER A COURS E OF TREATMENTS

• Australian cosmeceutical range • Results driven skincare • Select 7 Skin Peel System • Great price point and markup • Easy to use and recommend for retail • Annual marketing planner in place • UltraRewards - Client Loyalty Program • Staff skincare rewards • Flexible Opening Orders • Regular Salon Training • Momentum - Annual Salon Partner Conference

Emma Hobson is the education manager at The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica. For more information contact 1800 659 118.

1300 660 297 ultraderm.com.au


MAKEUP | NEW

MAC Hyper Real Glow Palette in Flash + Awe MAC 07 3852 2922

Skin O2 3D Face Stick Skin O2 07 5593 4488

Elleebana Lash Lift Adhesive – Stronghold Le Beauty 03 9421 0025

Youngblood Pressed Mineral Eyeshadow Quad in City Chic - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Colorescience All Calm SPF 50 Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851

Lust Minerals Pressed Foundation Lust Minerals Cosmetics 0409 258 907

Artdeco Full Mat Lip Color - United Brands Australia 1300 55 29 24

Cosmic Lux Glitter Pigment in Comet – Bodyography 1300 263 964

Gorgeous Brow Contour Palette Gorgeous Cosmetics 1300 730 277

Sumita Skin Protection Cream - Sumita 1300 263 964

jane Iredale Contour Brush Jane Iredale 1300 850 008

Synergie Minerals BB Flawless Foundation Synergie Skin 1300 689 619

Curtis Collection by Victoria Naked Glow CC Cream - Victoria Curtis 07 3902 0723

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Dermaviduals Liner in Black Dermaviduals 1300 420 223

Kicho Aroha Glow CC Cushion Pact Glamaco 1300 343 572


DIAMOND MICRODERMABRASION II Facial Machine

AQUA GLO HYRDADERMABRASION Facial System

OXY OASIS Oxygen Facial System


MAKEUP

EYELINERS Get in line and create the sleekest, sexiest eye with these black eyeliners.

to slay with

Adderton Waterproof Eyeliner in Black Adderton Beauty02 9818 6606

Gorgeous Cosmetics Liquid Eye Pencil in Carbon Black - Gorgeous Cosmetics 1300 730 277

Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Colour Bold Defining Liquid Eyeliner in Dark Valentine - Elizabeth Arden 1800 025 488

Bodyography Eye Pencil in Onyx Bodyography 1300 263 964

Ready to Shine Long Lasting Eyeliner in Darkest Black - GlamaCo 1300 343 572

Smitten Cosmetics Hollywood Eyes Liquid Eyeliner in Black - Smitten Cosmetics 08 9310 3355

Sothys Eyeliner in Noir Essential Sothys Paris 1800 816 599

Youngblood Extreme Pigment Eye Pencil in Blackest Black - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

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Visit us at

Beauty Expo Melbourne Stand SS05

Corneotherapy A treatment pathway for advanced skin therapists Corneotherapy is integral to maintaining long-term skin health by respecting the integrity of the stratum corneum and its defence systems at all times. dermaviduals is 100% FREE FROM Fragrances • Preservatives • Emulsifiers • Colours • Mineral Oils • Silicones Cruelty free

Visit us online or call:

dermavidualsAustralasia

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dermaviduals dermavidualsAustralasia

www.dermaviduals.com.au

enquiries@skincorrection.com.au


MAKEUP

GOLD!

These show-stopping eyeshadows are sure to make eyes of all colours and shapes pop.

Can you dig it?

Issada Mineral Loose Glitter in Sunset - Issada 07 3211 2202 Gorgeous Cosmetics Colour Pro Eye Shadow Light Bronze - Gorgeous Cosmetics 1300 730 277 Napoleon Loose Eye Dust in Copper Element - Napoleon Perdis 1300 625 387 Pretty by Flormar Stars Baked Eyeshadow in Golden Party - GlamaCo 1300 343 572 Youngblood Pressed Individual Eyeshadow in Czar - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Gilded Cage Revelation Eyeshadow #5 Gilded Cage - 02 4255 8588 Bodyography Expressions En Vogue - Bodyography 1300 263 964 Adderton Mineral Shadow in Passion - Adderton Beauty 02 9818 6606 FJ Fennel Beauty Essential Eye & Cheek #1 - www.fennelcos.com Smitten Glitter Confetti - Smitten Cosmetics 08 9310 3355 40

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SALON PROFILE

Going great

GUNS Sydney Permanent Make-up Centre founder Rita Porreca catches up with Michelle Ruzzene to talk all things cosmetic and medical tattooing.

RITA PORRECA IS a huge fan of guns – tattoo guns, that is. As one of the pioneers who brought the practice to Australia more than 30 years ago, long before ‘instabrows’ were a thing, she is regarded as one of the country’s leading cosmetic tattoo artists. Rita, managing director of Sydney Permanent Make-up Centre, boasts a long list of loyal clientele who frequent her salon in Five Dock, located in Sydney’s inner west, where she has completed thousands of eyebrow, eyeliner, and lip tattoos for women and men. In addition to cosmetic tattooing, Rita also specialises in medical tattooing, tattoo removal, skin tightening, and skin needling. Her passion is customising results to suit every client’s desired outcome and her expertise has enabled her to work with cosmetic surgeons on post-operative procedures – including areola re-pigmentation, skin needling and corrective camouflage - in a professional and sterile environment. Rita said eyebrows were at the top of list for tattoo requests. “For cosmetic tattooing eyebrows are definitely the most popular, followed by eyeliner and lips,” she said. There isn’t an eyebrow or lip stencil in sight at Rita’s clinic as she treats each of her clients “as a piece of art”. “I don’t have stencils, because everyone has the same eyebrows and lips when stencils are used,” she said. Rita said there had been a significant increase in medical tattooing requests recently. “Tattooing is up and growing for people that suffer from alopecia,” she said. “I also use medical tattooing for re-pigmentating areolas, which can be particularly empowering for those who have undergone mastectomy surgery.” Rita, who graduated in 1991 from the International Institute of Permanent Cosmetics in

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the United States and has completed Paramedical Aesthetics and Paramedical Camouflage Training – as well as a long list other extensive qualifications and accreditations - said it was important for therapists to keep upskilling. “I feel our industry lacks advance education,” she said. “After a therapist finishes their beauty course or courses, they are not advancing their education and keeping up-to-date with modern techniques and machinery.” This is one reason why, in addition to tattooing her own clients, Rita holds masterclasses for those looking to specialise in cosmetic tattooing. “I hold masterclasses, which have been designed for trained cosmetic tattooists who want to upskill their techniques, or to refresh their skills,” she said. “Most of these classes are two days of intensive training, for attendees to upskill and learn all the latest techniques.” She said that cosmetic tattooing was more popular than even these days, largely due to social media, but had some sound advice for those therapists looking to venture into the world of permanent makeup. “Students need to make sure they complete their cosmetic tattooing training though a reputable college,” she said. “It’s also crucial they constantly upskill their knowledge in the industry.” Aside from cosmetics tattooing, Rita and her staff offer a range of other treatments including dermal peels, oxygen facials, skin tightening, injectables and non-surgical eye lifts. She said what contributed the long-standing success of her salon was her advanced experience and knowledge of techniques and equipment, as well as her great eye for symmetry and understanding of different skin tones and face shapes. “We pride ourselves on being a clinic that has the answers to ageing gracefully and being up-to-date with the latest treatments,” she said. “We’re always trying to be a step ahead of everyone else the industry.” Two new treatments on the salon’s menu are High Intensity Focused Ultrasound (HIFU), a non-surgical, no downtime, in-office procedure for lifting and tightening sagging skin of the brows, cheeks, lower face, jawline and neck, and as PlaCo Plasma, a non-surgical eye lift that treats tired, heavy, hooded and puffy eyes. Retail brands available at the clinic include Australian-made O Cosmedics, distributed by InSkin Cosmedics, and Jane Iredale mineral makeup. n Contact Sydney Permanent Make-Up Centre on 02 9712 4133 or visit spmuc.com.au.


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elleebana Lifting Lash Standards 2018 IS PROVING TO BE A HUGE YEAR IN THE WORLD OF LASH LIFT The team at Elleebana HQ have just completed their first European Elleebana Elleevation Symposium for their educators at Beauty Ambition Academy in London. Managing Director at Elleebana Global, Otto Mitter, gives us some insight into why he has created this event: “Elleebana Elleevation symposium has been designed to give our educators a platform to work on improving our standards across the board in all things lash lift. We look at our manuals, content for delivery, assessment strategies, and then of course the practical aspect of application, improvement on techniques all the way through to the marketing, social media and customer experience strategies. We spend 2 days all working together refining everything. We want to be known as a leading brand, not only in product innovation, but from a customer experience point of view. As any brand grows you need to manage systems to ensure there is consistency with trainers and distributors, it is extremely important to work in harmony with each other as the brand develops. We completed our first symposium last year in the USA which proved to be extremely productive. London also was a huge success and we are now taking it to Canada in April this year and then back to the USA in June.” Master Educator for Elleebana HQ, Jessica Eaton, gives us some feedback from a trainers point of view about attending symposium: “The opportunity to forge connections with our global network of trainers and compare techniques, strategies and outcomes was an incredibly valuable experience. The feeling of inspiration and excitement from the team was undeniable!” Feedback from Jessica and other educators has enabled deeper consideration of how differing personalities learn in distinct ways and the continued care that is given to each student regardless of what country they train in.

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Elleebana


INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

Lydia Jordane

Tracy Lee Dobbin

Otto Mitter

Linda Fenech

Maria Cocciolone

Belinda Merlino

Mariza Nuttall

Maree Mondello

TOPIC: EDUCATION AND TRAINING PARTICIPANTS: Lydia Jordane – Lycon Cosmetics Tracy Lee Dobbin – Aesthetic Enterprises Otto Mitter – Ex Import Niche Products Linda Fenech – Skin Fitness Maria Cocciolone – InSkin Cosmedics Belinda Merlino – The Skin Clinic Concord Mariza Nuttall – MediSpa Solutions Maree Mondello – Face To Face Skin & Body Care PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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QUESTION: Which of the following topics should salons prioritise as their number one focus for training in 2018 and why? • Marketing (including digital + social) • Retail • Regulations • Product training • Technology LEARNING:EDUCATION AND TRAINING IS NEEDED TO BUILD CONFIDENCE, SO EVERY TREATMENT IS DONE AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL. Otto: “For me, marketing is a huge factor. Once you finish beauty school or you open your salon, obviously you have a stable of products or services ready to go. Then how do you let your clients know that you’re actually offering those services? At the end of the day, it is about making some money. We are passionate about what we do in this industry, but we do need to support our families, make a living. You have to absolutely tell people about the services that you offer. Train your team in how to market correctly, letting people know about these services is crucial to getting things kick started, getting that income coming in. It’s also very important that your team is up to date with regulations. Brands that are doing training with salons or schools need to ensure they are doing the right thing by the industry, researching the regulations, for the customers benefit and for the salons benefit.” Maree: “As a salon owner, I think it’s all of them. Historically, regulations, product training, and retail have Lights, camera, action. been what we needed to be an expert in. But now I have clients that only contact me through social media - I have to be really on my game as far as digital marketing and social media, to get my services out there. Technology is paramount as well. You have to be an allrounder and put yourself out there in a modern way, because that’s where we’re going. That is what the industry and our consumers are doing.” Mariza: “Obviously, the thing I really have always focused on is technology. MediSpa Solutions is known for outstanding technology. We are always very focused on technology. What’s new? What’s happening? We work very closely with different training organisations. We train lots of trainers on different technologies. That’s our little niche. For a salon owner, there are certain technologies they shouldn’t even take into their practise. The salon owner really needs to know their business and understand their business and their demographics. I was recently called into a salon where the owner wanted to purchase a piece of equipment. I

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suggested that she didn’t take that piece of technology because she wasn’t ready for it.” Belinda: “We’ve got a very strong retail floor. I’ve got a very savvy clientele that have already done their research before they walk in the door, and can probably tell me half the ingredients within my products. My staff are really, really competent in product knowledge and in retailing. But across all boards, everything is important, technology specifically. Gone are the days where I’m solely working with my hands. I’m reeling devices in and out of treatment rooms all day, every day. There isn’t a day that doesn’t go by that I’m not using a LED or a needling device. I do have [00:10:00] to be across all of those, but specific to my business, it would be retail, product training and technology.”

Linda Fenech and Otto Mitter

Tracy: “I was surprised there wasn’t client care on the list. Being across the board, you get left behind if you don’t have all of these skills. But the core of our trade is looking after the customer and the core is the training. The most important thing is teaching therapists how to take care of their customers. That’s got to be on that list. That’s really important to me, because that’s the basis of our trade, of our skill base.” Lydia: “We have to not only be a therapist, but a psychology has to come into it, where we have to tune into our customers to offer the best service, and the best of everything to each customer. Clients do know what’s out there and know what’s in cosmetics. There’s a lot of talk about special ingredients in every magazine you pick up. It’s important we are really in tune with each customer for us to get the best out of the customer. Whether it’s recommending treatments or whether it’s recommending a product, we have to be in tune and a chameleon at the same time, to fit in with each customer.” Linda: “After 23 years of owning my own salon, it’s customer care, connecting with the customer. I don’t think the generation that’s coming through now know how to connect with customers as much – it’s all digital. But it’s why my clients keep on coming back. Yes, you


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can do marketing, but unless those girls and gentlemen can work at getting those clients to return, marketing doesn’t mean as much to me.” Maria: “The day of a business owner being in the cubicle, and trying to be a therapist, and doing what she loves is over. Working on your business is primary because all of these areas have got serious consequences if they’re not being adhered to. A lot of my clinic partners still want to be therapists. But if you’re going to be the therapist, then you need someone at the front, and you need to make sure that every area of this business is being taken care of. The next generation needs to understand what it is that motivates them, what makes them tick and brings out the best in them. And embrace that. I’m really big on connection in a world that’s fast becoming disconnected. We can’t move away from the fact that we still have businesses with bricks and water. We have people that walk into our businesses and everyone is so worried about what’s happening with online. Yes, it’s another disruptor. But we have clients that walk in our doors and we get to touch and talk to. If that connection, if that experience isn’t amazing, then that client never needs to walk back into that business again. Being at the front desk and knowing exactly what your business stands for. As a business owner, you need to write down the specifications. This is what we stand for. These are our values. This is our core value. “

GUEST QUESTION – courtesy of Jay Chapman at ZING Business Coaching: There is a profound difference between ‘competent’ and ‘confident’ once a therapist has completed their diploma. How much real learning falls outside of formal qualifications? LEARNING: THERE’S NO SUBSTITUTE FOR EXPERIENCE. ENERGY, TIME AND MONEY NEED TO BE INVESTED WISELY FOR TRAINING OF THERAPISTS, FROM JUNIORS RIGHT THROUGH TO MANAGERIAL STAFF TO CONTINUALLY BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN COMPETENCE AND CONFIDENCE. Tracy: “It depends on the training organisation, the environment, the teachers that are providing the training, the culture of the organisations, etc. A lot of colleges have non-negotiable clinic hours, so the therapists get an enormous amount of practical training. They may have the opportunity to rebook, manage, plan treatments and work on reception. Even though it’s a simulated environment, it’s a great experience and it’s a lot of learning that can potentially take place in an educational institution. However, having said all of that, it has to be on the job. There are salons that provide little or no training. It’s a great shame.” Maree: “Competent is what you are when you graduate the course, but confident is an accumulation of all the knowledge that you gain after that. It’s the application of the knowledge that you gain within the parameters of that course. Every time you apply that knowledge

Tracy Lee Dobbin, Linda Fenech and Maria Cocciolone

Dessert at The Commons

to a client, the circumstances are different. You have to apply that knowledge and work with what you have. Confident comes with experience. I don’t know that confidence necessarily is something that you’re going to get on graduation. You’ll be competent, but not confident. There has to be a continuation of education. It has to be planned education within a salon, to keep staff learning and adding to their knowledge base, because our industry changes yearly. It changes seasonally, it changes constantly with science. It changes all the time. That means we have to be on top of our game and knowledge is our best weapon.” Maria: “Graduates coming out of colleges today are not the graduates that came out 30 years ago, 20 years ago, 10 years ago. I hear that all the time, that sadly, the graduates aren’t confident. They panic if they’re put in a situation. There is a lot to look at when it comes to the schools today. I was in a college not long ago where they were telling me the competency on eyebrow waxing is that you only need to be able to do one. But what about the other eyebrow? Ten bikini waxes, 20, 100, 500 - that’s where confidence comes. It’s not just about that protocol of ‘How do I situate the leg?’ and ‘How do I apply the wax?’ it’s about ‘How do I talk to this customer? How do I make her feel comfortable? How do I get her to come back because that experience was second to none?’ I went to one college and did a presentation and the girls just stared blankly at me and I couldn’t understand why my training was so boring. Then I found out they didn’t speak English.”

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Otto: “We’ve seen an influx of beauty students over the last few years, but a lot of these students may not necessarily be passionate about being beauty therapists. They’re just taking it because it’s an easy option. This could be a touchy subject. But I have seen that throughout the years and some of the students don’t really want to be there. They’re just there because they have the opportunity and they didn’t really know where they wanted to be. Another thing I have seen in the industry is the pressure that is sometimes put on therapists in a salon, say for example when a new product comes on board. They may not be given the time to perfect that treatment. Then they’re pressured into releasing that service in the salon without enough time on training. That is something that I think salon owners have to be very aware of. You want the best results for your customers; you want your team to be feeling very confident in the service. That completely relates to competent or confident. You have to absolutely practise. Practise makes perfect, practise gives confidence.”

Belinda: “I find it sad to hear that some established clinic owners or people in the industry think they know it all. I invest in training for myself repeatedly and come away differently each and every time, regardless of what the training session is. I often block off time within my clinic and I’ll sit down with the girls and we’ll do a scenario that may not have gone as well as it should have throughout the week. We’ll fine-tune how to improve it next time. It’s all about communication at the end of the day.” Linda: “I’ve got junior staff that pair up with senior staff to get their competency basis up. It’s often hard to afford to be able to send multiple therapists to training. Someone could be competent in the college, working quite slowly, but when you’re in a salon, you’re under the pump. You have to hurry up and create some shortcuts, but still deliver the results. Also, it can be dangerous to strive for perfection you cannot be a perfectionist because then you stop learning.”

Attendees from left Maree Mondello, Mariza Nuttall, Belinda Merlino, Maria Cocciolone, Glenn Silburn, Tracy Lee Robbin, Lydia Jordane, Linda Fenech and Otto Mitter.

Mariza: “The salons we support that do very well in education are the salons that are pre-planning their education. Not just deciding ‘Oh, next week you’re all going to go to do needling,’ or ‘Next week you’re going to go do HiFu’. They pre-plan from either 12 months or six months. Twelve months is a little bit harder for some salons because of staff turnover, but I think for at least six months you need to have a plan on which trainings you’re going to send which staff to so they can become more confident in those specific areas.” Lydia: “I’ve come across a lot of the therapists all over the world and the thing they often say is, ‘Oh, gosh, I’ve been in the industry 25 years. What can you train me on? I know everything.’ My specialty is waxing. When I start working with them, I have to be really careful not to offend them, but somehow to open up and accept the training. That can be a real challenge. That applies to everything. If you swing someone around to participate and listen to you, you’ve lost them. If they can see that it’s a bit different, they start participating. From college, teachers should instigate that there are a lot of people the students will continue to learn from. Never close your mind to thinking you’re the best. I have changed my techniques over the years and I still do. I’m always looking for something better to do with whichever treatment it is. That’s what the therapist should be very, very open to.”

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Mariza: “Developing scripts for your younger staff that have just come out of training is great give them confidence, even though they’re competent. Scripts really help them – have them laminated and readily available. Also, identify each person’s their learning style. My son learns with movement. Some people learn logically, some people learn through communication styles in groups. Other people learn on their own. Understanding how your staff member learns, is it through music, is it through movement, is it logically, that can also help you as a salon owner to be able to get that information and for them to be able to explain that information.”

GUEST QUESTION - courtesy of Helen Anton at the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine: How do you keep salon staff trained up on new techniques and technology? LEARNING: THERE’S NO DOUBT SOME SALONS ARE MORE PROACTIVE THAN OTHERS WHEN IT COMES TO TRAINING. BUT THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE SUPPLIER AND THE SALON IS CRUCIAL, NOT ONLY FOR PRODUCTS BUT ALSO WHEN IT COMES TO SUPPORT. Maree: “I rely very heavily on my supplier, especially with machinery, equipment and products. Most of my equipment is from


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MediSpa Solutions. I have access to the engineers that create my machines. Most of the education is not paid education; it’s free and available to me and my staff so that I can send them. I get a calendar 12 months in advance so I can pre-plan. We create it and make it a team effort so it’s a team learning experience. I rely on my suppliers, be that retail, machinery or equipment. If any of my staff I hire need certification, then we book that in advance. We spend the money and we fund their ongoing education. I would much prefer to educate my staff, then they leave, rather than them staying ignorant and so can stay. It’s a very dangerous thing to have uneducated staff, so I put a big focus on education. It doesn’t matter whether you’ve been in the industry for 12 months or 20 years. We’re all going through the same procedures.”

Tracy Lee Robbin and Lydia Jordane

Maree Mondello, Mariza Nuttall, Belinda Merlino and Maria Cocciolone.

Tracy: “There are three dimensions that need to be looked at. One is the training budget of the salon. The second thing is being savvy about who you partner with, who your supplier is, and the manufacturer of the product. That’s really important because part of the criteria is the training that falls into the obligation. The third thing thing is interfacing your training with your supplier and having that planning ahead business. Having the money to do it, having the availability and then making decisions about who you’re going to partner with, because training is a really big criteria when you’re making that selection.” Linda: “Each individual is at a different level than somebody else, so the training needs to be tailored to reflect that.” Otto: “Good planning comes down to offering great training. As new staff come on board, that’ a great time to discuss it. Let them know what they’re in for. Keeping staff excited is a goal that we always try to achieve. You can offer incentives. On a global scale, the Australian beauty industry is very passionate about education and being on the forefront of the latest techniques. Our company practises a lot of training. We spend a lot of time working with schools, with salons. It’s what we do all the time so it’s very, very important.” Belinda: “You’ve got to invest the time, the energy and the dollars. Recently myself and my therapists were getting a rattled

because I carry so many ranges and have so many different modalities. Which skin fi ts which range? Which skin requires something more basic and who needs the more advanced results, and how do you get them there? We organised through InSkin a specialised training day, specific to the lines that I carry. We then had our best retail month on record. Even just hearing what my staff had learnt that day was so satisfying. They carried that knowledge into the treatment room and into my clients and their skin journey. It was invaluable.” Mariza: “If you’re going to provide training, you have to provide good training. It can’t be a time waster. It’s got to be to the point. We’ve changed our training style. Most of our trainings are workshops now. There are a lot of hands-on, lots of practical. We really focus around keeping it simple but making sure the attendees get everything from us and are not wasting any time. We incentivise them at the end of the training. We give them a gift, we do a little certification of attendance, and they get their picture on social media with a tiara. It works for the young girls.” Maria: “As a supplier, there’s a huge expectation for us to motivate the staff, change their behaviours and ultimately the bottom line. But it is up to the clinic owners to ensure the training that we do has got a competency plan in place from the minute they walk out. Even when you leave product training, you leave with a new skillset, you leave with new terminology, and you learn new scripts. It’s up

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Sharing a joke during the break.

to the clinic owner the very next day to call on those. I sometimes feel like we’re in a bit of a battle with the clinics - it’s simply a win-win. We will, if you will. We’ll come back and do training for you as long as that staff member has completed X, Y and Z. We’re not setting you up for failure, we want you to be successful, but it’s got to be a partnership. “

GUEST QUESTION - courtesy of Tina Viney at APAN: Often new procedures have no recognised training standards. Should the industry set up a body or board with its own selfregulatory credentials? How else can we protect the integrity of our industry professionalism? LEARNING: THERE’S NO DISAGREEMENT ABOUT THE NEED FOR NATIONAL STANDARDS OR A REGULATORY BODY. EVEN THOUGH THE INDUSTRY WOULD APPLAUD THIS INITIATIVE, IT HASN’T GOT OFF THE GROUND YET BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY VARIABLES TO CONSIDER. Maria: “I don’t think there’s anyone that’s going to say, ‘No, we don’t need industry standards or rules or regulations.’ Absolutely yes is the answer, but how and who? How do you choose a board that hasn’t got a vested interest, that hasn’t got a political interest? How do you choose the people? How do you choose the experts that have no hidden agenda?” I believe in the US they need to display their individual therapist licence. If they lose it, they can’t operate, whereas in Australia, you don’t really know if you’re dealing with a therapist. You don’t have to have your diplomas or your credentials on the wall. If I look the part and I sound like the part, I must an aesthetician. Perhaps we should start with a national standard. For instance, in Western Australia a doctor can only use a laser. In Queensland, you need to be certified, in New South Wales, anybody can do it. You go to the international beauty expos and the suppliers will sell a device to someone from the public. It’s unbelievable.”

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Linda: “What does it mean to the consumer? How do they know if you are registered with this board? What do you have to do in order to be a part of it? It doesn’t mean anything unless you are going to promote it to the consumer. There’s a lot of complaints happening in the medical industry, it’s happening to doctors and nurses when it comes to things like laser treatments.” Tracy: “How can you have impartiality when the people that are coming into it are interested in the industry, therefore they’re involved in the industry, therefore they have an agenda?” Maree: “Should there be a governing body? Yes. Do I really want it? No, because at the moment, all I’m being told is if we do have it, then they’re tying my hands, they’re taking treatments away from me, they’re talking about taking away a big chunk of what I do and giving it to another sector. Until we get neutrality, and has the best interests of our industry at heart, it’s not going to happen. I pay for health inspections in my salon and I pay for two visits, regardless of whether they come once or twice. I’ve said to my council I would like a certification that tells my clients that I run my salon in a certain standard, but even that is a no-go. Ultimately, to bring up the standards, you have to bring up the hours of education that people are going to put into their business and into their staff. It comes down to the individual - they have to front up and they have to produce evidence of courses they have done, books that they read, videos they have watched - knowledge is being accumulated constantly. We’re not ready for a governing body - we’re ready to bring the whole industry up to a standard in education, and then we’ll have launch pad to move forward.” Mariza: “If people are paying a fee to be part of an organisation, salon owners want to get something for that. Whether it’s education, a newsletter, even connecting other salon owners together - you want something for your money. You’re only going to pay for so long before asking, ‘What am I getting for this? Am


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INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

Industry roundtable guests having a laugh.

I throwing money away?’ We say we want a governing body but if we do have one, they may stop you from doing treatments that you’ve been doing for years.”

Otto Mitter.

Lydia: “I don’t know how you can have fairness with a selfgoverning body, but if you’re going to get an external board, there’s a lot of power at play. You could have a lot more problems and a lot of unhappiness in the industry. When a client comes into a salon, they don’t ask if you’re licenced. They generally have trust in the salon or spa. They get a treatment and they’re happy about it whether you’re licenced or not. As a manufacturer, we have an audit every year. It’s very stressful.” Belinda: “I like the idea of earning further certification through education. My husband is in the food manufacturing industry. He has to go through very stringent testing to supply one of the major supermarkets in Australia. But then for that to happen, he’s got to close down for a full day. They go through everything with a fi ne tooth comb. I don’t want the beauty industry to necessarily go in that direction; we should be upgrading our skills and our training regularly and be recognised for it.” Otto: “The associations I’ve seen in various industries always have the best intentions. The intention is to have great regulations, safe practise. But you can have somebody that is registered with this and they can have a bad day. They may not complete the treatment correctly, they might make a mistake. You can have those regulations in place, but from a product developer and manufacturer point of view, I fi nd that we have an obligation and a responsibility to ensure that our products are safe. We teach people how to use these correctly and that is our way of regulating that, to ensure that everyone’s best interest is there. That’s very important.”

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GUEST QUESTION - courtesy of Dianne Miles at CIDESCO: Are registered training organisations negatively affected by an increased number of suppliers offering their own workshops (e.g. lash grafting, spa product training, nail treatments)? LEARNING: THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY DOESN’T STAND STILL, WHETHER IT’S TECHNIQUES OR PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT. TRENDS WILL CONTINUE TO DRIVE NEW TRAINING TECHNIQUES VIA A VARIETY OF SOURCES THAT ARE IMPACTED BY TECHNOLOGY. Lydia: “We need to learn from the past. Suppliers or manufacturers are bringing you products a lot of the time, but they need to keep in mind what the industry needs. An example is when Brazilians started coming in. We only did bikini waxing - then all of a sudden



INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

Maria Cocciolone Glenn Silburn, Tracy Lee Robbin and Lydia Jordane.

it was Brazilian waxing. The colleges did not train that. The salons didn’t know how to do it; I didn’t know how to do it. I had to train myself, and improve over time. As a supplier, because the colleges were not offering that kind of training, we did a lot of training and offered it to salons as well as students of colleges. They did pay for it because you spend a lot of time. Many of the have introduced Brazilian waxing as part of their standard training, but in some colleges, it’s still not available. It’s very important that suppliers have well-trained staff to offer training to the colleges and the teachers as well. The teachers have to be open to wanting the training. The other thing is colleges will teach a certain way. We’ve been in situations where they don’t want us to demonstrate because it’s going to confuse the students. They’ve got to do it a certain way for exams but you could be showing them something completely different. But it introduces the students to the idea of always looking for new techniques and being able to modify themselves later through learning.” Otto: “The relationship between the product suppliers and the students is very important. Obviously the students are the future of the industry. We need students, we need therapists coming through. We do have a very big responsibility to work closely with them. Make sure that we’re giving them all the opportunities we can. Advanced courses you can offer schools is very beneficial for students and the teachers there. If I use eyelash extensions, for example, that has been in the industry as we know it for probably about 15 years now. But it’s only just being added to a national training package this year. I’ve worked very closely with schools, writing manuals, developing training systems, to ensure they’re getting the best information because the schools need to work with the experts in that area. Not everyone learns how to apply eyelashes or brow shaping, or certain techniques that we do. We specialise in that and then are able to offer the schools an

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opportunity of doing more advanced techniques, which is really beneficial when they’re mostly leaving to go into workforce. There is a huge market of people that want to pay for these kinds of services. The schools are of course very interested in learning whatever they can to give their students the advantage to offer these services. If a student has an extra skill on their resume, who knows? It might actually get them that job over and above somebody else.” Tracy: “The teachers have to be current, because they’re the ones supplying and delivering knowledge and skills to students. Teachers have to have their finger on the pulse. It’s astounding the amount of times that I’ve met teachers that haven’t worked in the industry for over 20 years. They’re the ones I worry about. “


RETAIL SALES

Glenn Silburn, Tracy Lee Robbin, Lydia Jordane, Belinda Fenech and Otto Mitter.

start doing everything on Skype and online. Even the colleges are doing online training and yet we say the therapists are competent. How can they ever grow their confidence if it’s online? When you’re learning a skill for the first time, you cannot learn it online. You can’t capture it online in a camera; you can’t capture a hands-on experience.” Lunch is served.

Mariza: “We have to consider budgets and time. We have a trainer’s programme for teachers. Often they can’t access the funds needed to complete the training. They want to come on these courses, but they don’t have the money, so sometimes they have to do it out of their own pockets. We’ve introduced Skype staff training, which has made it easier for a lot of people outside the major cities. It’s only $20. The response has been incredible, particularly for our therapists who want more advanced knowledge. They already have a base knowledge, they already have new devices in place and they have come for more training. It’s imperative to work with trainers. A lot of people are very scared to share their IP (intellectual property). But you need to share with trainers, to be open with your IP.” Linda: “I’m working in some metropolitan cities but I’ve got salons that are in rural areas that can’t get the training. Where they struggle is you have to pay staff to travel to the training and for the training itself. It’s costly.” Maria: “One of my biggest fears is that in a service industry where we are face to face and it’s all about contact, that we

Maree: “It starts with suppliers bringing in trends from oversees. A registered training body isn’t going to put funding behind something that might be quite transient. It might not fire in the market. Like Brazilian waxing - I thought I could get away with not doing that in the salon. Well, that was a big mistake because that’s here to stay. That is how the registered training bodies respond to training. If it looks like it’s going to stay, if it looks like it’s fired in the market and there is a huge response, they’ll put money behind it. It is up to the suppliers that bring this new technology, the new science, new products, new trends from oversees to push that and to train trainers. Otherwise, there’s no point to funding something that’s going to fizzle out in six months. Brows and lashes, that’s been a social media thing, well and truly. If I see in another pair of intsabrows, I’ll scream. But that is where those huge trends start.” Belinda: “Colleges and TAFE’s can provide a really nice foundation or base. But the suppliers could go into colleges and say, ‘Hey, your learning will not stop here. It will never stop.’ Even now I’m thinking I could really refresh my waxing. Because I was trained 17 years ago and things like the Brazilian I was self-taught, or my first employer taught me how to do it. I wasn’t trained in that. It’s evolved and changed since then.”

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INDUSTRY ROUNDTABLE

QUESTION: Australia is a multicultural society. How do you educate a therapist on dealing with different races, religions, cultural sensitivities, transgenders, disabilities, and other marginalised groups? LEARNING: RESPECT NEEDS TO BE MAINTAINED AND COMMUNICATED FROM THE CLINIC OWNER, Belinda: “I’m really fortunate that I live multiculturalism every single day in my clinic. My staff come from all sorts of backgrounds – from European to Middle East and to Australian. I’ve got atheists, I’ve got Catholics, I’ve got Muslims but it’s never discussed. We’re just who we are. In terms of ever having to box a client into race, it’s only ever going back to the Fitzpatrick scale to know which products or treatments are safe and suitable and in my client’s best interest. In terms of a disability, make sure that your business is wheelchair accessible. I have a client that has one leg. She’ll come in with her wheelchair, we’ll assist to get on and off the bed and she loves it. It’s a full day out for her and it’s an experience. We make sure that it’s extra special for her. I’m lucky that I don’t have to educate my staff about different races because we live

sensitivities in the salon. It’s a form of communication. It comes down to your consultant. That word respect, that old-fashioned principle, it’s such a strong part of our culture. The culture of the therapists, the culture of our industry, is about respect because we’re dealing on a very personal level with people.” Maree: “Our children are growing up very much multiculturally. They are exposed to many different cultures, religions and different customs and cultures. You combine that with a basic like of people and the nurturing quality that you need to be a really good therapist. You are delivering a very personal service and you are really getting yourself into that person’s needs, you’re providing them with the service and experience in your salon. That all comes down to how you respect that individual. We have a very high number of disabled clients coming through the salon. It is very important that you respect them as an individual with very ordinary human wants and needs. It comes down to their very basic human right to be respected and to be treated as a human being and with very normal wants and to share the same experiences as everybody else. I would like to think that my staff already has that quality of respect and knowing how to adapt to different situations and needs.”

Glenn Silburn shares some pointers.

it each and every day. Being a stone’s throw from Auburn we have Muslim clients. One time a lady’s alarm went off and I asked her if she had to get her children. She said, ‘No, it’s time to pray.’ I told her I didn’t need my treatment room for another 45 minutes so she was welcome to and pray if she wished. She was very appreciative. It’s about being respectful.” Maria: “It’s showing people respect. Being aware of culture, religion and race - what people’s needs are. Also their personalities. You need to aware that everybody is special and everybody has their needs and you allow for those. We’re very lucky that we live in a multi-cultural society and as kids, we grew up with that. Our kids are growing up in an even nicer environment, where we’re one and the same and we respect each other.” Tracy: “The client consultation card is a basic tool in the salon to get your information, to look at client preferences and

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Belinda Merlino and Maria Cocciolone

Mariza: “At the end of the day, we’re dealing with people. You have to be respectful and love people.” FOR MORE: To see all the action captured on the day and to watch the full discussions on video head to professionalbeauty.com.au/roundtable


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SCIENCE and Nature

Founded more than 70 years ago as a professional beauty institute in Paris, Sothys has earned a worldwide reputation as one of the leading skincare brands. The company explains its strategy to success in Australia to Professional Beauty. When and why was Sothys established? How long has it been available in Australia? Sothys was first established in 1946 by a biomedical chemist who was supplying biological extracts in ampoules to dermatologists in Paris treating burns and skin injuries following World War II. The range broadened and soon there were creams and emulsions created that were supplied to Parisian estheticians, and this was the beginning of Sothys evolution in the professional beauty industry in France. In 1966, when the doctor wished to retire, he sold his company to a young Bernard Mas, who came from a family pharmaceutical company. Sothys then took on a very dynamic growth phase that took it from a small Parisian brand to the international brand it is today, with distribution to around 20,000 clinics and spas in 125 countries worldwide.

Sothys has always remained exclusive to the professional aesthetician, its creations are based on scientific research inspired by nature. Australian Sothys distribution started in March 1981 by Jeffrey Daley and has been a consistent and stable distribution for the past 37 years with representation in all states.

How has the business grown and changed since you have distributed in Australia? In the early 80s professional beauty was a very small niche market with a small population of professional estheticians and a handful of cosmetic brands in support. It was a very intimate niche market then, and everyone knew everyone else. This was the generation of beauty schools and cosmetic suppliers that cemented the success of our industry that we know today. You can say Sothys is part of the foundation of our modern professional market in Australia.

What is the business’ key focus today? Our core values in Australia have never changed, and Sothys has maintained its consistent core values as a creative company without straying beyond them. As a brand and as a company, one of our three pillars is loyalty to the professional aesthetician without compromise. The second pillar is the continual evolution of our science-based product and treatment creations to assist the estheticians in their craft. The third pillar is the signature of maintaining a ‘hands-on’ technique in all of our treatment procedures. These three pillars reflect our commitment to the client-therapist relationship that we feel is fundamental to the industry’s relevance and future.

How does Sothys and its family of products differ from other suppliers/ brands in the industry? Sothys just gets on and does what it does best - it invests 10 percent of its entire income to its scientific research laboratories, which is quite unique to our specific professional industry. This covers the Original Research science team that works out of Sothys organic Beauty Garden in collaboration with the University of Limoges Green Science Unit, where new molecules form the basis of patented cosmetic actives. The team from Sothys Applied

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SUPPLIER IN DEMAND

Science laboratory then utilises the new molecules in the creation of evolving formulations for Sothys. Sothys guarantees worldwide safety and security on its products as a result of knowing every facet of their creation. This is unique in our professional industry.

What have been the biggest changes you have seen in the industry since starting your business? For many decades our industry was free of the influence of the internet. During this time the quality of the relationship between the therapist and client was one of lifetime nurturing. In our times of social media communications, this personal bond has been fractured through many different concepts of what beauty is today. The advent of clinical skin care has been a game-changer. And with clinical skincare, the expectations of a quick fix has put more pressure on Sothys research and development to create high-performance treatments and homecare that deliver the results that are expected by a demanding clientele today. Sothys has created a range of clinical skin care that delivers the benchmark results of our times in line with dermo-aesthetic technology.

What do you think are the biggest opportunities in the industry in the next few years? The opportunities are numerous. Opportunities are only seen by those who are adaptive to the times we live in. The advantage Sothys has is that we never stand still as a range. Sothys’ products are in continual evolution and we have the ability to adapt to any direction we feel is the right path.

What do you think are the biggest challenges facing the industry in the next few years? Our industry can only function well when there are therapists who are prepared to dedicate themselves to the care that is essential to our game. The biggest challenge our industry has today is the engagement of younger generations of therapists who have a different approach to their work life and job rewards in what is fundamentally a service industry. Schools play an essential part in moulding the attitudes and behaviours of future therapists, but they can only do so much and the rest comes down to individual character.

To what do you attribute the brand’s longevity in a notoriously fickle consumer market? Sothys profoundly works on the skin, offering results consistently. It is easy to sell a treatment or product once, but to create a growing business you must

have a returning clientele. Results, coupled with client care, are the basis of our industry. Sothys has always placed clients’ safety and long-term skin viability first, even while utilising more clinical-style formulas recently, which is why it has such respect and high reputation in the marketplace. Sothys is the equivalent to the slow food movement philosophy in food, whereas more recently we see too many McDonald’s-style fast food skincare brands catering for short term results with potentially negative repercussions in the long term. Sothys is a brand for a lifetime of good skin health. The skin has a memory and will repay you for the kindness and care you invest into it. Conversely, with aggressive treatments, your skin will repay you with accelerated skin ageing in the future as it exhausts its vitality and becomes senescent. Sothys is a safe life-partner with a proven reputation with over 70 years of experience. We could say ‘70 years without a wrinkle’. n For more information contact Sothys on 1800 816 599 or email info@sothys.com.au

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NAILS | NEW

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Scout Cosmetics Invisible Touch - Scout Cosmetics 1300 525 077

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BioSculpture Shine Like a Disco Ball Gel and Polish BioSculpture 1300 246 435

Claudia Schiffer Nail Polish in Kingsmen United Brands Australia 1300 55 29 24

Evo By Bio Sculpture Natural White - Bio Sculpture 1300 246 435

Zoya Professional Lacquer in Gal SA Beauty Supplies 1300 855 644

Artistic No Cleanse Sealer – Switch Funky 07 5520 0464

Difeel Luxury Hand Cream in Pomegranate Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611

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Issada Fashion 5-Free Nail Colour in Georgia – Issada 07 3211 2202 Eles 5 Free Nail Lacquer in Tiffany Meringue – Universal Aesthetics 02 9948 1667 Orly Breathable Treatment + Color in De-stressed Denim – Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Blue – Jessica Cosmetics 1300 470 648 Hawley Manicure in #217 – Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Color Club Nail Lacquer in Bright Night – GlamaCo 1300 343 572

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Issada Fashion 5-Free Nail Colour in Georgia – Issada 07 3211 2202 Eles 5 Free Nail Lacquer in Roman Holiday – Universal Aesthetics 02 9948 1667 Orly Breathable Treatment + Color in Fairy Godmother Hawley International – 02 8667 1700 Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Fab Faux Fur – Jessica Cosmetics 1300 470 648 Hawley Manicure in #122 – Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Color Club Nail Lacquer in Best Dressed List – GlamaCo 1300 343 572

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NAILS

THE THREE C’S

of perfect nail care

Every client, regardless of skin type, lifestyle or nail condition can achieve beautiful, strong healthy nails year-round, writes Jan Arnold.

PRACTICING AND EDUCATING clients on the three C’s of great nail care can prevent problems and provide long-term nail health.

Care Regular care is a preventive measure that assures consistently healthy nails. It’s important to maintain desired length, banish unwanted cuticle and balance the nail’s natural condition with the correct level of protection. This means a regular schedule of appointments for the client. Caring for nails requires an understanding of what can go wrong – so that a custom-care regimen can be created.

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Factors that can cause nails to break down include: • Daily, high-impact stress, which can cause nails to chip, which can result in nail layers peeling. • Exposure to harsh chemicals (such as heavy cleansers), excessive hand washing or overuse of hand sanitiser can cause dryness and peeling. • Overexposure to water, especially warm soapy water, can result in peeling. Water swells the plate layers and can lead to delamination of nails. • Lack of nutrients such as protein and amino acids which help to build hair, skin and nails. When the body is lacking these ingredients, nails can begin to suffer. • Changes in the environment, especially drier air when it gets colder, can affect the entire body. Dry air can dry out skin and nails, which can result in nails peeling more frequently. • Improper nail servicing, such as improper prep or removal, can cause problems over time.


Condition Daily conditioning with a blend of lightweight oils, such as high-grade jojoba oil, assures the proper moisture and oil balance for tough, resilient nails. This helps make nails water-resistant and keeps surrounding skin soft and supple. Benefits of using conditioning oil daily are: • It absorbs slowly through nail cell layers, acting as an internal lubricant and protecting the cells by filling the tiny voids and channels. This slow migration provides an important cumulative effect. • Oil makes the nail more resilient to stress and impact. • Lightweight jojoba oil is an example of a ‘carrier’ oil, helping other oils penetrate more effectively. • Oil can also serve as a barrier and make the nail plate more water resistant. • It helps maintain proper moisture balance. Since oil moves more slowly than water through the nail plate, the plate is less likely to lose oil. Constant exposure to detergents and solvents can leach these oils.

Coat The correct coating offers lasting protection and helps seal invaluable oil and moisture to keep nails tough. There are many coating options, and they depend on nail type and condition. Clients with attractive natural nails simply need a weekly appointment and a thin layer of traditional or long-wear nail polish. Clients needing more protection require a bi-weekly appointment with the enhanced protection of a gel polish. And for those with thin, weak nails, a tri-weekly appointment is called for with liquid and powder or gel enhancements. A few facts about nail composition: • The nail plate is made up of densely-packed sheets of flattened cells held together with cysteines and proteins, with spaces and voids between them. • Cells coming from the back of the nail bed matrix end up on top of the nail plate. These layers travel the furthest to the extension edge and are the oldest. At the extension edge, the surface plate cells are nearly two months older than the newer cells and more susceptible to impact, which could lead to delamination, or peeling, of nail plate layers. • During the growth period, the older cells on the top side of the plate are exposed to environmental effects such as hand washing, sunlight and daily wear and tear. This is why the nail plate tends to delaminate at the edge. • Nail coatings help seal these older layers together and protect them from breaking apart. • Bare and unprotected nails are vulnerable and open to any stress or impact from daily living. Remind clients that healthy, resilient nails take a team effort. And repeat the three C’s cheer - “Care, Condition, Coat!” as the winning combination for forever-fabulous nails! n Jan Arnold is the co-founder of CND. Her experience as a brand engineer has contributed to CND’s international success while her high-fashion personal style makes her the perfect face of the brand. Contact pacificnail.com.au.


NAILS

Sculpting the EVOlution

She founded the first soak off colour gel and first nail gel sculptured extensions 30 years ago. Nail industry pioneer Bio Sculpture CEO Elmien Scholtz catches up with Michelle Ruzzene to talk all things beauty. How was Bio Sculpture Gel created? During the eighties when artificial nails became part of nail enhancements, I was completing my CIDESCO beauty therapy training and was fascinated with this new segment in the nail industry. However, a few question marks hung over the nail enhancement products back then, such as: What are the methods used during preparation prior to product application?

Tell us about the business’ focus? Bio Sculpture has always been focused on quality products and the health and well-being of the nail technician, the customer and the natural nail – that means a product that is user-friendly to the technician and nail-friendly to the client, with a focus on educating the technician in nail anatomy and product knowledge. The industry has now moved towards quick and easy application hybrid

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gel polish systems, as there is a clear demand for products that help reduce application time. Gel polish / hybrid products definitely have a place in the nail salon, but they have come at a cost to the industry in the form of poor quality products, little to no education or training, as well as playing a part in lowering the value of nail care services to the end user. While much of the salon trends have changed to express services, Bio Sculpture has kept its focus on quality and health while staying up to date with the current market trends.

How do you support local communities? Bio Sculpture has a fund that goes towards local community support in South Africa such as schools, old age homes, sporting assistance or helping gifted students to access tertiary education. Our largest beneficiary is a local orphanage. As ongoing support to orphans who finish high school, we intake a number of students to participate in our internship program at Bio Sculpture. It warms my heart to see what a positive difference we are making.

How and why was the Evo Gel system created? Since gel polish was introduced to the nail industry, there has been a noticeable increase in nail damage due to the ingredients and removal


processes. EVO was specifically designed to be a healthy alternative to other gel polish products. While staying true to the Bio Sculpture ethos of healthy nails, it took several years to develop EVO’s unique formulation that was created to fill an unmet need in the industry – fast, reliable, and healthy gel polish treatments It boasts a world-first oxygenating base technology that has been specifically designed to mimic the natural process of moisture movement, keeping the natural levels of oxygen and moisture balanced on the nail. The result is a healthy and balanced natural nail, that is yet to be seen or achieved from any other product on the market today.

Where do you see the nail industry headed in future? As seen in other areas in the beauty industry, I feel the nail segment will also head towards a more health-focused approach as end users start to demand more from their nail technicians and nail care brands.

What advice would you give nail therapists? Invest in good education and good quality products. So much precious time goes into your daily work that you need to be as knowledgeable as possible regarding your profession. This will result in happy clients who will promote your work.

What makes the Bio Sculpture brand so special? We care. Bio Sculpture tries to be innovative with constant new products

and methods. We try to stay on par with new trends but not at the cost of poor quality or anything that may be harmful to the health of the natural nail. We believe that no matter the length, colour or lifestyle, healthy nails will always be in fashion.

How are you celebrating 30 years in business? We are planning a week of celebrations with our importers and everyone who is near and dear to the company and who helped get Bio Sculpture to where it is. Everyone will gather in Cape Town and Stellenbosch South Africa where it all started. We are going to have a lot of fun but we are also planning a few surprise products that are still in the pipeline. The 30 year mark is a great achievement that makes Bio Sculpture the wworld’s longest standing nail company. We are blessed to witness the gradual change over to a new young Bio Sculpture generation. n Contact Bio Sculpture Gel Australia on 02 8218 4500 or visit biosculpture.com.au.


EQUIPMENT | NEW Helsinki Retail Shelves provide a natural Scandi storage solution for your salon that is both functional and stylish. Comfortel 03 8581 8111.

Criocuum Cryolipolysis has been engineered with advanced cold treatment technology to deliver non-invasive fat reduction and body contouring. The Global Beauty Group 1300 655 013.

Genesis by mesoestetic offers painless, noninvasive treatments with visible results from the first session. Suitable for the face and body, it treats everything from wrinkles, bags and dark circles to sensitive skin, scars and cellulite. Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011. Nion Beauty Opus Luxe Facial Cleansing Brush (pictured in Rose Gold) uses kinetic energy to help release toxins, improve circulation and preserve natural oils while cleansing skin. Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611.

Comfortel’s Multi-Function Facial Machine is an 8-in-1 device that combines the basic skin care functions for any facial treatment. This system includes Facial Steamer, Mag Lamp, Woods Lamp, High Frequency, Galvanic, Vacuum Suction, Vacuum Spray and Brush. Comfortel 03 8581 8111.

Pollogen LEGEND is a multitreatment aesthetics platform specialising in non-surgical body contouring, cellulite reduction, skin tightening and dermal volumising. The Global Beauty Group 1300 655 013.

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VelaShape III is a device that contours, shapes and slims the body by treating cellulite and circumference reduction with visible results in as little as one treatment per session. Syneron Candela 1300 226 335.


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SCIENCE. RESULTS. TRUST.


WAXING | NEW

BeautyPRO Non-Woven Waxing Strip Roll - Switch Funky 1800 700 510 Jax Wax Coastal Banksia Depilatory Strip / Soft Wax Jax Wax Australia 03 5943 2422

Lycon Mango and Guava Sugar Scrub Lycon 07 3004 6200

Jax Wax Coastal Banksia Beaded Hot / Hard Wax Jax Wax Australia 03 5943 2422

Caronlab Brilliance Hard Wax 5kg Caronlab 03 5227 4999

Xanitalia Pelables Rose Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611 Xanitalia Techno Strip-Less Hard Wax Azulene Dateline Imports 02 9666 3611

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preparation | ˌprɛpəˈreɪʃ(ə)n | noun 1 (mass noun) the action or process of preparing or being prepared for use: the project is in preparation. • (count noun) (usu. preparations) something done to get ready for an event or undertaking: the salon continued its preparations for the summer months. 2 a substance that is specially made up, especially a medicine, food or product. • a specimen that has been prepared for professional use: product and surface preparation ensures the better first time results.

Be prepared with Jax Wax Australia’s Coastal Banksia product range to ensure a superior performance.

Featuring beautiful fragrances of coconut and lime, Coastal Banksia makes your salon the perfect oasis for your clients to embrace the summer feeling. Jax Wax Australia’s Coastal Banksia waxing products are ideal for sensitive skin and combined with pre and post waxing products will give you the complete waxing treatment.

For more information call 03 5943 2422 or visit

www.jaxwaxaustralia.com


SALON PROFILE

Sharkra MEDI SPA For Sharkra Medi Spa founder Tanya Ahmed, offering a standout waxing service is just as important as the high-end therapies for spa is known for. WAXING MIGHT NOT be the most exciting beauty service out there, but it is a staple for most in the industry, from suburban salons to luxe spaces like Hobart’s Sharkra Media Spa. Founded by Tanya Ahmed in 1998, Sharkra has developed a reputation as a professional clinic offering outstanding dermal therapies in a beautiful setting. Stepping through the door, clients are greeted with an architecturally designed fitout featuring a combination of wood and industrial materials. Ambient lighting, calming music and plush toweling help set the scene. However, Sharkra is not all about the aesthetics. Along with the advanced treatments performed by the spa’s two doctors and eight therapists, Ahmed knows it’s just as important to do the basics well and says that what sets Sharkra apart is the professionalism of its staff and a commitment to offering the very best, even with a simple treatment like waxing.

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“The most valuable part of any service offered at Sharkra is that a professional, results driven treatment that the client is happy with is offered at all times,” she says. “Clients must always leave feeling refreshed, impressed and delighted with their service.” Sharkra therapists follow strict procedures when performing any treatment, which ensures consistency and quality for all clients. Ahmed says she believes training is critical and that waxing standards must be continually monitored and improved. “Training is absolutely crucial for the success of any service offered at Sharkra, and waxing is no exception. It is imperative that all services including waxing are conducted in accordance with local council regulation and above industry standards.” As homecare is a necessity for waxing clients, Ahmed considers it part of a therapist’s role to educate clients on how best to look after their skin once they leave the salon. This in turn leads to organic selling opportunities. “Empowering your client with this knowledge usually leads to an easy opportunity to retail to them. I always tell my staff that ‘knowledge is power’ and if you can help your client achieve the best results they have ever had, then it will never be selling, it’s simply part of what needs to be done.”


SALON PROFILE

Brazilians and eyebrows are the most popular waxing services Sharkra offers and the salon uses both Adam & Eve Angelic hot wax and Caron Brilliance strip wax. Ahmed says your choice of professional brands is incredibly important and impacts the level of service you are able to offer. “The influx of lesser quality goods and services will always challenge our industry… Do not ever compromise on quality, no matter how much cheaper another brand may be. Always purchase the best quality of any product that

you can afford and always deliver a non-negotiable treatment of excellence, make this your standard for all services and products. “We need to ensure that our industry is respected by the public and as such we must ensure that we uphold the highest of expectations of ourselves and our staff at all times.” Ahmed has had high expectations since she opened her salon aged just 21 after completing a Diploma of Beauty Therapy. She wanted to be financially independent and make a difference for her clients in a space they would feel safe and relaxed, and has carried this goal with her during more than 20 years in business. “I love offering quality services coupled with outstanding professional products to achieve effective results for our clients. This will always be the number one driver for running Sharkra Medi Spa. The fulfilment of knowing clients are ecstatic about their service and products is an absolute highlight for me, always.” n Contact Sharkra Medi Spa on 03 6224 3838 or visit www.sharkra.com.au

Shimmering XXX Waxing Organically formulated. With lavender extracts to soothe the skin.

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TANNING | NEW

Glow on the Go 20min Rapid Tan - Naked Tan 1300 365 683 Natural Look Summer Kiss Ultra Dark Violet Artav Australia 1800 805 276 Ella Baché Great Spray Tan - Ella Baché 1800 789 234

Roxy Tan 7 Day Tanner Ultimate Dark - Skinny Tan info@skinnytan.com.au

EcoTan Face Tan Water EcoTan 1300 596 118

Bondi Sands 1 Hour Express Self Tanning Foam Bondi Sands 1300 961 385

Sunescape 2 Hour Rapid Tan Professional Solution Fiji Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Moroccan Tan Blend and Buff Mitt Moroccan Tan 1800 181 281

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Solaire Skin Radiance Ultimate Bronzing Oil with DHA Solaire 1300 650 079


SALON PROFILE

TURU BEAUTY

Professional Beauty visits Melbourne salon Turu Beauty at its busiest time of the week – tan night.

IN 2015, KIRSTIE AQUILINA took a leap of faith and opened her own salon, Turu Beauty, in the Melbourne suburb of Boronia. Not only was she jumping into being a business owner, but Aquilina was also upgrading from renting a beauty room in a pharmacy to running a salon sixtimes bigger. “I didn’t know everything before I started and still most definitely don’t, but I just learned along the way,” she says. “I am a fully qualified beauty therapist and studied at Victoria University, and since then have completed a lot of advanced courses to further my knowledge in the industry and keep current.” Nearly three years on and Aquilina is juggling a staff of five and a 16-month-old baby, but she is able to make it work thanks to the tribe of people around her. The biggest challenge is keeping up, particularly with social media. Turu’s Instagram is a well-curated mix of stunning clients and beautiful product shots, and Aquilina says it brings in new clients daily. She uses the Story feature a lot, which forms a real connection with clients, and says Instagram is her main marketing channel along with word of mouth. “The biggest challenge for me is time – finding time to be all over everything behind the scenes and social media and still treating my clients. Times change so fast and people always want more, so trying to keep up all the time can become exhausting but somehow, we as salon owners just love it.” Pop into Turu Beauty on a Thursday night and you’ll find a hive of activity. Although the suburban salon is busy throughout the week, Thursday night is tan night, which can see the staff doing more than 25 tans in an evening. “Tanning is massive in our salon and we have two active tan rooms that get used daily,” says Aquilina. “Our clients love our tans and it comes down to not only the applicator but the solution and aftercare products we use.”

Turu uses Moroccan Tan and Aquilina says most clients want a natural-looking spray tan that will fade gradually. She believes education is extremely important and teaches her staff tanning tips and tricks that not every salon does, which gives them a point of difference. “I really feel the more natural look is back, not as many girls seem to want to go super dark-dark. They would prefer the tan to fade seamlessly and last well, so using a tan with hydrating and nourishing ingredients is vital,” she says. “We have all seven of the Moroccan Tan solutions—it’s so good to be able to cater the tan to our clients’ wants and needs. It makes our job a lot easier.” Along with using a high-quality professional brand and having well-trained staff, Aquilina says the secret to a perfect bronze is to take your time and make clients feel as comfortable as possible. “Don’t do layers as your tan will only crack after a few days. Educate the client about the product you’re using and advise them to never leave their tan on longer than the timeframe advised… Invest in sticky feet to protect the soles of your clients’ feet. “Basically just think about the little touches you can include to make your clients feel as comfortable as possible as they are in a very vulnerable position.” Although Turu retails at home products including Moroccan Tan primer, tan extender, tanning mousse and tan off mitts, Aquilina says she doesn’t try too hard to sell product unless she knows clients will benefit from the recommendation. “Keep it authentic and honest. If someone asks what moisturiser they should use to maintain their tan or how to best prep their skin, I know I have the products that are going to achieve what they need and keep their tan amazing.” This approach has helped Aquilina form close bonds with her clients, some of whom have followed her for almost nine years. “I love our vibe and the salon we have created,” she says. “It is a fresh, welcoming environment and we like our clients to feel relaxed comfortable and leave better than they felt before they came in. “Although we love that we have created a calm, relaxing vibe, we also love to have a bit of fun and a good laugh with our clients. They feel just like our friends and it makes coming to work so easy.” n www.turubeauty.com

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PROFESSIONAL PERCEPTIONS

ALL SYSTEMS GO! Salon owners can often face an uphill battle managing their business and ensuring they simultaneously meet expectations of demanding clients. A salon software solution can revolutionise a business by removing admin headaches and allowing owners and managers to instead focus on delivering services. With so many tools and features to consider, we asked the experts to share their top three requirements for choosing the right salon management software.

Versum Deciding on the right tool for your spa, clinic or salon can be a challenge, especially with so many available options on the market. What should owners and managers consider when hunting for the perfect solution? Ease of use: The software of your choice should speed up your work and make it easier, therefore more enjoyable. Solutions that are difficult to understand are not a good investment, as they require long hours of getting used to. Look for a tool that automates your most time-consuming tasks. Tailored to your needs: When searching, keep in mind that you don’t need a solution with many features that you don’t plan on utilising. The right tool should give you the chance to turn off the features your business doesn’t require and turn them on whenever you decide. Effective marketing: Before you decide to go with the solution, check what marketing options it has. Look for a solution equipped with tools such as marketing automation or loyalty program and integrated with social media platforms to save you time and attract more customers. Versum Slawomir Gawlowski Business Development Manager +44 203 393 7709

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PROFESSIONAL PERCEPTIONS

Kitomba Salon & Spa Software Choosing the right salon and spa software for your business doesn’t have to be difficult. Here’s what you should consider… Features designed for you: When it comes to features, it’s important that software makes running your business easier, provides accurate understanding and insight, motivates your team and helps your clients. However, it’s smart to consider the details. Ensure the features work the way you do, the numbers and reporting are calculated using your industry’s standards and the software creates value for your business. Kitomba is designed specifically for the hair and beauty industry and for 15 years we’ve focused on developing highly-tailored features just for salons and spas. Unbeatable support: Running a salon or spa isn’t always easy, so choosing a company with great support is vital. At Kitomba, our team provides unlimited free support via phone, webchat and email. Continuous development: Our industry is always evolving, so it’s important to choose an innovative company so you can get new features as you need them. That’s why we focus on improving and developing our software, so we’re meeting your needs as you grow. We hope this helps you to choose the right solution and become even more successful! Kitomba Salon & Spa Software Al Quinn CEO 1800 161 101

Timely Searching for salon and spa software can seem like a daunting task. But before you file it away in the ‘too hard’ basket, here are some things to consider when looking at solutions. Start by listing your business needs to figure out what features and functions will be the most valuable to you, and ask yourself ‘Will this save me time?’ and ‘Will I get the insights I need to make informed decisions?’. To help you get started thinking about some of those feature specifics, here are a few key things to consider… Ease of use for your team: Salon and spa businesses can be hectic! You don’t magically have hours of free time to learn a new salon software system, or teach it to your staff. Look for a solution that has a simple, intuitive user interface, great support and works across devices such as a mobile app that means your team can keep track of their schedule from anywhere. Simple and effective for your clients: Look for salon software that makes it as simple as possible for your clients to book when and how it suits them. The best salon software solutions allow clients to book however they feel comfortable: by phone, text, or through the ‘Book Now’ button on your website or Facebook page. Making it work with your other apps and tools: Avoid solutions that force you to double handle your data and look for a system that integrates with your other business apps such as your accounting software and marketing platforms. Timely Jo Blundell Chief Product and Marketing Officer 03 8595 5171.

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SpaOne Software Here are our top three considerations when choosing software… Flexibility: Workplace environments have changed drastically recently. Business operators now require flexibility in their work location. SpaOne clients look for a full service tool that can be accessed and operated anywhere, anytime. Choose software that is cloud-based, so you can take your business with you wherever you go. Continue to manage your business through your phone, tablet or laptop. With SpaOne, latest data is updated live to the cloud for you to grow your business wherever you need to work from. Price/value for money: Firstly, the software has to be realistically priced to suit your budgets. But also look for hidden costs as ongoing fees and charges all add up. Look for a software system that is open with all costs from the beginning of your conversation. After-sales support: It is not only the software you are choosing but the ongoing after-sales support. With a high turnover of staff within the industry, you will need a software company that can support your team today as well as into your business’s long term future. SpaOne offers free ongoing, unlimited helpdesk and technical support for the life time of your SpaOne relationship, for all staff. SpaOne Software Jen Robson Co-Founder and Director 1800 980 441

Konnect Spa & Salon Software All salon management systems can deliver the basic features required to manage your salon. What makes the better ones stand out from the crowd are those that can help you improve the customer experience. For salons that are ready to lead the way, I’d be looking to achieve the following outcomes from a salon management solution… Make your clients feel special before they’ve even booked an appointment. Does the system allow you to SMS or email exclusive offers to customers quickly and efficiently? Can customers make on-line bookings? Does it allow for automated booking reminders direct to a customer’s mobile phone? Does it offer Apple Wallet booking reminders? Delivery of a seamless in-salon service delivery. Does the system allow you to take notes, photos, review skin types and update product/treatment preferences on the spot and store it on the salon’s computer system? Can you search therapy types, make-up styles and skin treatments with clients and save it directly to the client’s file? For multiple salons, can you share client details and service histories with all outlets to deliver a friendly and efficient experience, no matter which salon they visit? Keep your salon top of mind after their visit. Can you send SMS messages a few days after their visit to enquire about how their skin feels after the treatment and ask if there is anything further you can help them with? Or issue salon vouchers to thank them or offer a discount for a referral made? Konnect Spa & Salon Software Rodney Moore Director 1300 788 507

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PROFESSIONAL PERCEPTIONS

Neko Spa & Salon Software It can be quite an overwhelming exercise researching the most suitable salon software solution for your business. It’s very easy to get ‘sold’ all the extra bells and whistles, when you don’t really need them and never end up using them. I think it’s always good to remain focused on the key things you need. First of all, think about what problem you are trying to solve. If it’s just to keep track of appointments, the history of your client treatments and a little bit of reporting, then choose a system that delivers those features. If you want it to manage staff rosters and commissions, then choose one that provides that functionality. I find that some salon management systems offer a lot of features, but those features often come at a premium cost. Make sure that if you are paying for the extra features that you use them! If you aren’t, look for a more appropriate alternative for your business. The other thing to consider is if you want the freedom to work remotely. If you do, then make sure you choose a cloud-based system. Cloud-based systems allow you to work anywhere, at any time, by simply connecting to their laptop, smartphone or tablet. Finally, ease of use is extremely important … you’re in the beauty salon business, not IT. If it looks too hard, then it probably is too hard. Choose a system that is simple, practical and easy to use! Any solution worth the money will offer you a free trial, so take them up on that and see for yourself how easy the solution you are looking at is! Neko Spa & Salon Software Linda Dunkin Marketing Manager 02 8004 5294

Shortcuts My number one tip for salon owners is to find software that lets you focus on providing the ultimate guest experience. Today’s technology lets you automate everything from reporting to collecting client feedback to sending marketing emails. This means you can put all your energy into creating an experience to remember. Providing your guests with the high quality experience they deserve, can come down to simple, yet practical, tools, such as Shortcuts Visual Treatment Records. This feature is the perfect way to track clients’ progress over time and capture before and after shots. Features such as Contraindications enable you to put your clients’ safety first and show them that their wellbeing matters to you. Another essential for salons is to embrace mobile technology. Your clients are time-poor and it’s important to empower them to interact with your business how and when it suits them. The Shortcuts Mobile Guest App puts your business in the palm of your clients’ hands, lets them manage their own appointments, and serves up the latest news straight to their mobile phone. Mobile technology won’t just benefit your clients. Being able to take your software system from room to room gives you the flexibility to provide that personalised touch and frees up your front desk too. You can build your own forms and waivers for clients to fill out on a tablet, and even book your guests in for their next appointment from the comfort and privacy of a treatment room. Shortcuts Joanna Burgess VP of Evolution 1300 667 374

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Bookwell Build strong relationships with clients, escape administrative headaches and most importantly, grow your business revenue - this is what we at Bookwell.com.au believe your salon management software should be helping you achieve. Your next new client is searching for reviewed local businesses that they can book instantly online. Find software with a diary that integrates in real time with an online booking platform. Clients book themselves in instantly 24/7 so there’s no need to man the reception desk. Top salon management software should also offer automation. No more payment checkout required, as it’s already taken care of online. Bookings and reminders for clients? All automated too, which fills your empty seats and saves you time. You’re on the go, so your diary and data should be also. Whether on a mobile, tablet or computer, manage your clients, update your services, run business reports and book in new appointments quickly and easily using a cloud-based system, such as Bookwell’s, which is accessible anywhere with Wi-Fi. If you’re not sure which salon management software to choose, look for free trials and do a test drive. Bookwell Sarah Pelham Bookwell Operations 0411 022 389

MINDBODY Salon Software Acquiring customers is probably the first thing on your mind. Great business management software knows this and has marketing capabilities built in, such as letting customers book your services online and giving customers the choice to book services through various channels. Make sure your software powers these functionalities so that you can take full advantage of the opportunity to fill your calendar. Invest in software that makes point-of-sale and retail services as simple as possible with benefits, including business app and mobile swiper functionality and integration and data storage. Integrated payments help your marketing efforts, allowing new customers to make purchases as soon as they discover your business. Lastly, look for business management software that seamlessly provides the following capabilities: Comprehensive reports to provide insight into customer behaviour; a business app, which allows you to check daily sales, staff, and revenue numbers even when you’re away from the salon or spa; retention marketing tools so you can send automated appointment reminders with email of two-way SMS, anniversary and birthday emails, and referral program information. MINDBODY Inc. Amanda Patterson Vice President, Marketing 1800 082 989

It’s all about the client.

Timely freed me up to spend quality time on my clients in the salon. That is so valuable to me. Mikalya, DIME FRIDAY

Visit gettimely.com to start your free trial.

SALON & SPA SOFTWAR E

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SPOTLIGHT ON

ABOVE AND BEYOND USANA Celavive® skincare is leaving a unique impression on complexions around the globe, combining premiere scientific research together with luxury skincare products. The company explains the expertise in skincare and cellular research it takes to create a product line like Celavive.

How did USANA Celavive® come about? For 25 years, USANA has led the way in science, nutrition and innovation. The skincare industry is very competitive and the science behind effective skincare is constantly evolving. We felt it was time to introduce a line that reflected the most current innovations. With the introduction of our exclusive InCelligence® complex, Celavive supports the natural anti-ageing ability of skin cells – helping create cutting-edge skincare products that respond uniquely to individual needs. In addition, we chose the name Celavive because it represents the idea that your cells are alive and are working together to create a beautiful complexion.

What are the brand’s most successful products and why? The Celavive Vitalizing Serum and Hydrating Eye Essence are our hero products although all of our products are incredible. They contain a

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higher concentration of active ingredients from our InCelligence® complex for maximum benefits. These products are designed to support the skin cells’ natural processes for dramatically younger-looking skin. The exclusive InCelligence® complex found in these products is made up of two bioactive peptides and two botanical extracts that when combined work to counteract the visible signs of chronological and lifestyle stress ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. This powerful nutrient combination responds uniquely to each individual person.

Tell us more about the philosophy of USANA Celavive®? Our tagline for Celavive is ‘Go Beyond What You See’. We chose this because it represents the core thinking behind the Celavive skincare line. Beauty is so much more than skin deep. The science of Celavive works from within to help create a radiant complexion that will allow you to face each day with confidence. This is an important message as skincare is very personal and emotional. In addition, this tagline speaks to the business as well. There is so much opportunity in experiencing a skincare line, falling in love with it, and sharing it with your friends and family. It is an opportunity that can change the lives of women, and men, worldwide. Celavive celebrates the idea that a great product can help improve the look of your skin and give you more confidence.


SPOTLIGHT ON

THESE HIGH-PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS UTILISE KEY PHYTONUTRIENTS, NATURAL BOTANICAL EXTRACTS, AND POWERFUL PEPTIDES TO IMPROVE OUR NATURAL, YOUTH-PRESERVING FUNCTIONS AND FIGHT THE SIGNS OF VISIBLE AGEING. BY INTRODUCING CELAVIVE TO THE WORLD, WE WILL ONCE AGAIN CHANGE THE COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE AS WE KNOW IT. – Dr. Myron Wentz, USANA Founder

What sets USANA Celavive® apart from its competitors? Celavive combines the best of science and the best of nature to awaken your skin cells natural ability to restore beauty within your own skin for beautiful results. In addition to the InCelligence® complex, the Olivol TM Botanical Blend features USANA’s patented Olivol ® olive fruit extract along with watermelon, apple, and lentil fruit extract to provide lasting moisture for up to 24 hours after just one application. These products were formulated to send signals that target your skin’s innate beautifying processes. That means Celavive goes beyond traditional

skincare regimens to deliver beautiful results that are perfectly unique to your concerns.

What can you tell us about your future plans? Celavive will introduce new groundbreaking products to enhance the line while keeping the routine simple and incredibly easy to follow. We have already seen many powerful before and after photos with the products.

Tell us about the USANA Celavive® experts? USANA Celavive® skincare is leaving a unique impression on complexions around the globe, combining premiere scientific research together with luxury skincare products. It takes expertise in skincare and cellular research to create a product line like Celavive, and two of those experts are Keijun Koh, USANA’S research and development specialist, and Dr Jennifer Lee, USANA’s dermatologist. n Contact Usana on 02 9842 4500 or visit usana.com

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INDUSTRY INSIGHT

ARTAV Australia Celebrated hairdresser and beautician Arturo Taverna got his first taste of success when he opened a salon in Adelaide in the early 1950s. His company Artav Australia now manufacturers and supplies hair and beauty products to salons across the globe, with Arturo’s sons Andrew and Anthony Taverna playing leading roles in the business. Here, they share some insights with Professional Beauty.

How can salons encourage staff to attend training, both internal and external? Andrew Taverna: One of the most important aspects of any artist’s career is satisfaction with their own work, and your salon employees are no different. It’s important to show them that training is an investment by your salon in their capabilities – you value your workers enough to invest in them. Setting specific standards for your employees to achieve allows you to evaluate them based on concrete factors. Highlight your team members’ strengths and work with them on their weaknesses through training; this will keep them interested and motivated. Take note of their interests and be sure to provide further training on what they are most interested in. Anthony Taverna: It is important to provide your staff with the highest quality training to keep them interested and motivated. Invite your suppliers to present their products and give your staff the most up-to-date knowledge. Here at Artav Australia we offer a wide range of relevant education for the beauty industry. Your employees can become jaded or unmotivated if they feel their hard work

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is going unnoticed, so it is also important to create a positive and stimulating environment in your salon by finding ways to reward their positive attitudes, hard work and up-skilling.

Aside from product, what is the greatest contribution a supplier can make to the success of a salon? Andrew: Aside from offering high quality training, you can make a great contribution by building a relationship with salons rather than simply offering a product. At Artav Australia we strive to make ourselves available to salons and provide them with the best support possible at all times. We encourage salons to contact us for assistance and aim to give tailored answers to provide the best outcomes. We understand that the more salon employees are confident about their knowledge of our products, the better their service to their customers will be, so it is absolutely vital to be available to assist them. Building that trust benefits the salon, the supplier, and of course the customer.

How can salons increase their retail sales and compete with the growing online market? Andrew: By understanding your points of difference with the online market. You provide an experience, not just a product, and you are the experts and give much better advice. Anthony: Make customers feel special as soon as they enter your salon. Make your retail space appealing; be creative and focus on the experience. Focus on the human interaction and give them a service tailored to their needs and condition. To do so, ensure your staff members are trained regularly and


INDUSTRY INSIGHT

are knowledgeable about the products you are selling. Let your staff try the products and don’t be afraid to ask your supplier for samples and advice. Make sure you have a good selection of high quality products to suit every need. Finally, the online market will continue to grow, so embrace technology. Ensure you have a strong presence online and use that platform to educate your customers and make them understand why it is so important to rely on professionals. Think of your loyal customers who are unable to purchase at the salon – offer them convenience by making your products available to them and sending them advice and incentives to return.

What are the essential components of salon professionalism? Andrew: Again, knowledge and customer experience are key components of salon professionalism. Your staff should know all about different skin types and conditions and about the products you have in-store, their effects and how to use them. Know your limits and where you specialise – most successful salons specialise in particular consultations and do not give every single service to everyone. Be sure to present alternatives to your customers. Ensure you create an unforgettable experience for your customers. Salon image is more important than ever before, so your retail space should display a professional look with a modern feel. Create a pristine environment that stimulates all the senses using appropriate lighting, music and essential oils. Provide excellent customer service from the original booking to the consultation. Have friendly, approachable staff make your customers feel comfortable and relaxed and check that your booking system is customer friendly.

What will be the greatest challenges facing the beauty industry and how can we tackle them? Anthony: The confusion that has been created in recent years between what is professional and what is not is a challenge. The industry has blurred the lines between professional brands and mass brands – there are more and more at home treatments available that are promoted online as being of ‘salon quality’ and this has led to customer confusion about what a professional product or service is. To counter this, salons need to help customers understand that professional equals excellence Services need to be more resultsdriven and salons must offer an experience that is unique – they have to provide something outside of what is expected. They cannot offer a service that is ‘good enough’ anymore, they have to find ways to ‘wow’. Keeping up with fast changing client demands will also be extremely important: salons will have to adapt to them and change rapidly. n www.artav.com.au

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BUSINESS

The

BEAUTY is in the

DETAILS WE ARE ALL aware that it is getting more and more competitive in our industry. And in 2018, it’s not just traditional competition (like a new salon opening nearby) that you need to watch out for. You now also need to compete with the likes of Amazon and Sephora - the juggernauts of global and online retailing. So as an independent salon owner, how do you compete? And what will separate you from all of your competition? I believe the answer is simple. The difference will come down to the level of outstanding service that you’re able to provide for each of your clients. In our industry, extraordinary face-to-face service comes from extraordinary knowledge, which, in turn, leads to amazing results for your clients. Results that will keep them coming back and render them loyal to you for life! Every therapist’s ultimate goal should be to become the trusted authority on all things beauty. I know that many successful therapists have clients who wouldn’t do anything without checking with them first and when those therapists recommend a product or a series of treatments, the clients happily do as they’re told, without question. The therapists that have this kind of reputation and relationship with their clients don’t seem to be too bothered by online discount products or increasing

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competition from the large retailers and mass-produced brands, because they know that their clients will come to them, and only them, when the time comes to purchase a beauty product. No matter how experienced you are, or how many years you’ve been working in a salon environment, to become and stay an expert on all things beauty requires continued education and lots of it. Doctors, lawyers, accountants and pilots don’t finish their studies and know everything they need to know about their industry and role. Instead, they are required by strict regulatory bodies to ensure that their knowledge remains current as time rolls on. Our industry might not have a regulatory body, but the same philosophy is true for therapists - if you want to remain current and effective, you need to stay educated. Professionals in the beauty industry need to constantly pursue education on new treatments, techniques, technologies, products and ingredients if they want to remain relevant in an increasingly competitive environment. Nelson Mandela said: “Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world”. If education does in fact have the ability to change the world, it can certainly change your career or your business. There is no doubt that the beauty business landscape is changing and changing rapidly. Not only is it more competitive than ever, but your customers can get immediate answers from Google, on almost anything. What does that mean for you? It means that you need to be able to offer your clients more than just information. What people can’t get from Google is the wisdom that comes from deep education and relevant hands-on experience. Your wisdom and insights into how to solve your clients’ skin concerns or how to create a new effortless look with their makeup comes from knowing the right questions to ask and how to ascertain your client’s real needs, and that comes from years of experience and constant ongoing education.

*Patrick McGovern (International Data Group)

How can you successfully stand out in a competitive beauty market? The answer is simple, says Matt Williams.


BUSINESS

Most salon, spa and clinic owners and managers agree that education is crucial for their team and for themselves, but at the same time there seems to still be enormous resistance to sending your team to a full day of training or even to block out several hours for an online course, or frequent product and treatment-focused training. So why is that? The usual response is that they are just too busy to take the time out for training and education, or that they can’t afford to. There is an excellent story that demonstrates the power of taking time out to work on yourself and getting educated on all aspects of your business. The story goes something like this… A lumberjack is working tirelessly attempting to saw a tree down, but he isn’t making much progress because his saw is blunt and just not cutting through the timber. A friendly bystander notices the lack of progress due to the blunt saw and asks the lumberjack why he doesn’t stop and sharpen his saw? The lumberjack responds by saying that he is too busy sawing to stop and sharpen his saw. From the outside, it is obvious that if the lumberjack simply took some time out to sharpen his saw, he would immediately begin making progress again, be more efficient, and achieve better results but he’s too busy being ‘busy’ to notice. This story is analogous to many salon, spa and clinic owners that are so busy with what they have to do on a daily basis. The thought of stopping to do even an hour or a day, let alone several days of education, even if it will sharpen their knowledge and skills, is just too overwhelming. Unfortunately, as a result, they find themselves in the same predicament as the lumberjack. They may end up with out of date tools, treatments and knowledge that stunt profitability, customer retention, and ultimately growth. If they had managed to take some time out to learn and grow and better themselves, it is almost certain that they would be performing remarkably better and, on their way, to being one of those top performing therapists that we spoke of earlier. In fact, there is exhaustive research that supports the fact that training and development offers more return on investment, than any other investment a business owner could make. It should be a no brainer, but it isn’t. I get it. I run a business too. And I know that in the past, I have, like many other small business owners, believed that I didn’t have the money, nor the luxury of taking my team away from their dollar-producing activities. In hindsight, I can tell you that I couldn’t have been more wrong. If you’re not convinced, the following statistics might help to show you that you can’t afford not to invest in education and ongoing training for both yourself and your staff.

Businesses that invested in employee development generated*… 24% higher profit margins 218% higher income per employee 86% higher company value 21% increase in productivity 300% reduction in employee turnover A return per dollar invested of $6.72 My advice would be to think about your business goals next time you’re agonising over your allocated time and budget for training and education. Instead of looking at training and education as an expense, see it as an investment and the best one you can make. When I coach a salon owner, as soon as I have done an evaluation on where they are financially and where they want to take their business, our

IN OUR INDUSTRY, EXTRAORDINARY FACETO-FACE SERVICE COMES FROM EXTRAORDINARY KNOWLEDGE. next step is always looking at how to improve the team performance and productivity. We look at the knowledge gap between what they know now and what they need to know, in order to give the business, the performance it needs. This knowledge gap might be in skincare, makeup, or tanning. It might be product related, or it might be technology related. It might be around customer service and sales, or perhaps marketing and social media. The education needs of one salon may differ from the salon next door. The first step is knowing what you don’t know! One of the areas that we pride ourselves on at Professional Beauty Solutions is the training and education we offer to our salon partners. While we provide comprehensive product-driven education, we place just as much importance on providing extensive education on areas that help you to build a profitable and predictable business. PBS provides workshops and programs that take the fear out of your financials by demystifying the numbers side of your business, we show you how to get your team aligned in order to optimise productivity and detailed sales and marketing workshops that show you exactly what you need to do in order to grow. Every salon owner needs to create a learning culture and prioritise education if they want to thrive. I suggest starting by allocating a small percentage of payroll and investing that into education and training for you team. Plan each quarter in advance and ask: “What does the team need to learn in order for them to perform better at their role?”. Furthermore, ask yourself, as the owner: “What is it that you need to learn about building a profitable business?”. In each issue of Professional Beauty moving forward, I’ll be covering what I have learned from the last two decades in business, detailing the areas that can have the greatest impact on your success. In the next issue, I will discuss how crucial it is to block out time each week to get educated on finances, team building, sales and marketing… areas of business that many salon and spa owners overlook, at their peril. Stay tuned! n Matt Williams is the Managing Director of Professional Beauty Solutions. For more information, visit www.probeautysolutions.com.au

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Building a Brand Identity for

YOUR SALON OR SPA A strong brand identity takes critical thinking and creative work, writes Bill Lynott.

THINK OF ONE of your favourite name brands. Whether it’s a professional product for use in your business or a favourite product for your personal use, chances are you chose it because you are comfortable with it; you have a mental image of that product and the company behind it. That’s what brand identity is all about. Major companies go to great lengths to build and protect a unique brand image because they know the marketing power of a positive brand identity, especially in a difficult economy. However, building a brand identity is not just for the big players. Even small businesses like salons and spas can enjoy the extraordinary marketing power of a strong business image. Exactly what is a brand? It is more than a logo on a business card or the sign in front of a store.

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It’s the promise that a business makes to its customers and prospective clients. It identifies the ways in which its products and services differentiate it from its competitors. Simply put, a brand is the image that a business projects in the hope of developing brand loyalty. Your salon or spa brand is the mental image you will create in the minds of consumers. Your brand is your business’ personality. It can be a powerful marketing tool, a drag on your sales and profits, or anything in-between. That’s why you must take control of your brand identity. When you develop a strong and positive brand image, your target clients will develop an emotional attachment to your business. They will become loyal to it in much the same way that you are loyal to your favourite brands. It isn’t necessary for you to take the time and resources to create a brand image that will be recognised the world over. It’s only necessary for you to create the kind of image that will dominate your little piece of the marketing world. Here are seven steps that will help you to build the kind of brand identity that will boost your sales and profits on a permanent basis:


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1. Separate yourself from your competitors

5. Harness the power of repetition

The first, and one of the most important steps in creating a strong brand identity, is determining what makes your business unique. Begin by analysing your major competitors. Look for their strong selling points and ways that you can differentiate your business from the others. The next step is evaluating your own strengths and combining them to form a unique identity – a marketable image for you and your business. Perhaps you’ve been in business longer than your competitors have, or maybe your long experience has enabled you to develop skills unique to your shop? Perhaps you have knowledgeable employees who take pride in their abilities to leave clients feeling upbeat? Perhaps your shop projects a warm and friendly atmosphere? Whatever your marketable strengths, write them all down, study them, and then determine how you can combine them to separate yourself from your competitors. Once you’ve sold yourself and your employees on why you are the best choice for clients who require the utmost in professional skills and value, you must focus your marketing efforts on ways to promote this image to consumers.

Repetition is an important part of building a strong brand identity. Marketing experts say that it takes six or more impressions for potential customers to remember and connect with a business. That’s why those annoying TV ads are repeated. Consistent and repetitive use of your visual materials will help to build an enduring and powerful brand for your business. Simple efforts such as passing out your business card or brochure at every possible opportunity will help to harness the power of repetition.

2. Take action on something that most of your competitors only talk about Providing personal services is a people business; you sell your services to people, not to objects. All of the Harvard Business School expertise in the world is no substitute for an understanding of that basic business principle. The most effective, least expensive, branding technique for any business is an uncompromising commitment to customer satisfaction. Making certain that every one of your clients has positive feelings about you and your operation will turn those clients into walking advertisements.

3. Employ strong visual elements A major part of brand image is visual recognition. Science long ago recognised that we humans remember what we see far longer than what we read or hear. That’s why major brands that are favourites of yours have a highly recognisable visual image. A basic visual image for your shop calls for an aesthetically pleasing logo. The logo in itself is not your brand, but it serves as the anchor for that allimportant visceral image that is part of every successful brand identity. Once created, your logo must be used on all business cards, letterheads, envelopes, and store signings, all with a consistent visual image. You can extend these essentials to include a website, a brochure, or any other professionally designed pieces. To embed your brand identity in your market area, you must use it consistently in every image you project to your market. Make sure that all of your visual elements are unique to your business and they will not be confused with those of a competitor.

4. Harnessing emotions All successful brand images have a large emotional content. It is critically important to make solid use of the purely rational in developing reasons why prospective clients should look to you when they need your services. However, it’s also essential that you remember the power of the heart and mind in shopping decisions, especially for customers who are looking for a highly personal service. Scientists tell us that emotion is a more powerful system in the brain than the rational system. That’s why it’s important to try to influence as many positive emotions as possible at every step in building your unique brand image.

PRODUCTS ARE MADE IN THE FACTORY, BUT BRANDS ARE CREATED IN THE MIND. - Walter Landor 1913-1995

6. Travel branding roadways Once you’ve created your brand image, it’s important to make sure that it reaches consumers. The available branding roadways are almost unlimited, but for a small business, it’s important to utilise the least expensive. Advertisements in local media are fine for those who can afford them, but for shops on a limited budget, there are many effective alternates. Among them are such techniques as regular e-mails to people who have logged on to your website, occasional postal card mailings, a presence on social media such as Facebook, and asking satisfied clients to spread the word.

7. Live up to your new image Once you create and support your brand identity, it will work for you by helping to develop new customers 24 hours a day, seven days a week, but only if you live up to the promise you have created. The time and effort that you have invested in branding your business will be futile unless you and your employees remember that branding is about meeting expectations, not just creating them. If you fail to meet the expectations created by your new brand identity, your clients won’t be coming back or recommending you to friends. n Bill Lynott is a prize-winning writer with an extensive background in management consulting, marketing and finance. Email Bill at blynott@comcast.net or visit blynott.com.

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It pays to

Get ready for changes to casual and part-time entitlements, Michelle Blewett reports. CHANGES TO OVERTIME rates and shift entitlements for casual and part-time employees covered by some modern awards came into operation on 1 January, 2018 and take effect from the first full-pay period of the new year. These changes give effect to the decision of the Fair Work Commission on 5 July, 2017 concerning part-time and casual employment issues, which were examined as part of the four-yearly award review.

Casual entitlement to overtime pay The beauty industry heavily relies on casual employees to supplement its workforce, and typically salon owners employ casuals as the conditions are more flexible than those regulating full-time and part-time employment. Beauty therapists, beauticians, makeup artists, salon assistants, and many other jobs in the beauty industry are all covered by the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010. Under that award, prior to this decision of the Fair Work Commission, an employer could not lawfully ask casual employees to work overtime. This decision means that casual employees will be able to work overtime hours, however, they will also now attract overtime pay. Casual employees will be entitled to overtime pay for each hour worked in excess of ‘ordinary hours’. Ordinary hours are determined with reference to the ‘hours of work’ provisions in the applicable modern award. Casual employees, whether they are ‘irregular casual employees’ or casuals working on a ‘regular and systematic’ basis, will be entitled to overtime pay when they work:

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• More than 38 hours per week, or an average of 38 hours per week over a roster cycle. • More than 10.5 hours per day. The overtime rates applicable are: • 175% of the ordinary hourly rate of pay for the first three hours; and • 225% of the ordinary hourly rate of pay thereafter When calculating overtime rates for casuals, the employee’s base rate (excluding casual loading) should be used.

For example… A casual makeup artist worked 45 hours over the last fortnight due to high demand over the festive season. The 45 hours were worked over five days per week, nine hours per day. How much overtime is payable? ANSWER: The employee would be entitled to 14 hours overtime pay. The first three hours of overtime worked on each week of the roster cycle - i.e. six hours, should be paid at the rate of time and a half. The remaining overtime hours worked - i.e. eight hours, should be paid at the rate of double time. A client asked whether they could have a on a facial that lasts for two hours at 8pm on a Thursday night. The beauty therapist had been working since 9am in the morning, but agrees to do the facial as the client is a loyal and valued customer. What is the overtime payable? ANSWER: The employee would have worked 10.5 hours by 7.30pm and attracts overtime pay for all hours worked thereafter. Since the employee worked until 10pm, they would be entitled to 2.5 hours pay at the overtime rate of time and a half. If you are a beauty salon owner, you should ensure that you update your payroll systems to make sure casuals are paid overtime where they are now entitled to it. If you are unsure about when the overtime rates will apply, and how to calculate the overtime rates of pay, never fear – subscribers to Workforce Guardian have access to all the tools and advice they need to manage staff with ease. Please do not hesitate to contact me for more information. n Michelle Blewett is an Employment Lawyer with Workforce Guardian. She advises business leaders on building successful teams, and managing issues such as harassment, discrimination, illnesses and injuries, bullying, and unfair dismissal and underpayment disputes. Contact www.workforceguardian.com.au


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Back to

BUSINESS BASICS Are you getting what you came for from your salon business? If not, it’s time to take back control, writes Marie Drever.

DO YOU REMEMBER what originally inspired you to invest in your salon business? Were you lured by the promise of making great money, having more time and enjoying a brilliant work / life balance? Maybe it feels like a pipe dream now. That you’ve been building sandcastles in the air without reaping the rewards you hoped for. If your head’s hitting the pillow at midnight and you’re back up at the crack of dawn for another day on the salon floor, it’s time to take control. Stop wondering what your ideal salon even looks like, or how on earth the clinic up the road seems to be booming. Instead of looking outward, it’s time to look inward for the mindset and actions that will make change happen. Start here, with my four key steps to getting the business you always imagined owning.

Step 1: Know your numbers Like every business owner, you need to know what it costs to open your door every day for your salon, spa or clinic space. It’s your break-even figure: all the costs combined, from rent and insurance to electricity, wages, software, cleaning and more.

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I’m still amazed that many salon owners guess their breakeven figure. You need to be clear. If your weekly outgoings are $5,850, then you shouldn’t be paying yourself before your revenue exceeds $5,850. It’s simple. Add up all your projected bills (yes, every one of them, including the Christmas party costs) over the coming year and divide the total by fifty-two. That’s the figure you need to know. And you need to work it out for yourself, not bump the task to your bookkeeper or accountant. They’ll only focus on last year’s figures. You need to look ahead. Got your figure? Great. Now break it down in to terms of achievable goals – how many clients, how many services and how many products do your team need to deliver to reach your magical break-even figure each day, each week, each month?

Step 2: What’s your plan? Trust me - you need a plan. Write down a long list of personal and professional goals, but work on only two at a time. The two most common goals salon and clinic owners list are more time off and more money for the work you put in day after day.


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For your two chosen goals, write another list breaking each down into how you could achieve them, what needs to be in place to make them happen. Instead of thinking about the problem, think in terms of the solution: • preparing an education plan • having team meetings • doing team appraisals • surveying clients about service • making time for one-to-one meetings

Step 3: Training and education Upskilling and training your team should be front and centre of your business plan. Your team needs to stay up-to-speed on latest trends, new techniques and innovative products so they can professionally solve clients’ problems. Start by working out the quietest two-hour period each week in your salon. Allocate it to training and education once a month. Lock it in: same time, same day, every month for the year ahead. Brainstorm 12 relevant topics, allocate a team member as expert for each topic and you have your training program and trainers sorted.

Step 4: One-on-one meetings As a coach to salon owners, I know that every problem you face falls into one of four main categories: • skill • team • attitude • neglect When you meet individually with your team members, you hear them. You let them tell you what help they need. Once a week, shout them a coffee and have an honest chat. It could be the best $4.50 you spend all week. Once you understand their goals, dreams and needs, you can better plan your business. In a nutshell, never lose sight of why you became a salon owner in the first place. Let that early business dream of yours inspire the salon you imagined for tomorrow. n Marie Drever is a Zing Business Coach and established successful salon owner. For more salon wisdom email Marie at marie@zingcoach.com.au or visit www.zincoach.com.au.

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SLIDING DOORS – from employee to guru

Michael Gottlieb explains how you can turn your dreams of being your own boss into a reality.

DREAMING OF BREAKING free from the employee mindset and starting your own beauty business? Becoming a business owner is a challenging, yet rewarding experience, and the rise of small and micro businesses in Australia is a testament to the freedom and opportunities that running a small enterprise provides. You get to be your own boss, it permits more flexible working arrangements to fit around other commitments and responsibilities, and there’s also the potential to earn more than you ordinarily would as an employee. Finding a way to market can initially be challenging and requires a great deal of time and effort, but if it leads to having your own successful business and greater job satisfaction it will be well worth it in the end. Managing appointments, finances and the marketing of your beauty business will all become issues you will need to deal with directly. There will also be your tax and insurance obligations to manage but luckily there are a few core steps you can follow to get you going in the right direction and well on your way to becoming the next Aussie beauty guru.

Determine your business model Deciding your business model is the first consideration you will need to make. Will you have your very own bricks and mortar salon where there’s a vast opportunity for growth? Or will you

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keep things simple by setting up a home salon or a mobile beauty business, both of which can provide greater flexibility? On the flip-side, there’s also the option of testing out the self-employment waters by renting a space within an existing hair or beauty salon. This gives you the opportunity to learn the ropes of running your own show while building up a solid client base.

Develop a business plan Regardless of the business model you decide upon, you’ll need a business plan, especially if you need to secure a loan. Not only will it help you refine your ideas and formulate your objectives, but a solid business plan will give you the best chance of survival. According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics, around 60 percent of small businesses fail within the first three years with the primary cause of failure being poor strategic management. When writing your business plan consider the immediate first steps involved with the setting up of your business, as well as planning and goals for the first year, the first three years and the first five years. A good business plan should include the following: • What services will you provide? • Who are you offering them to? • Who are your competitors? • How will you attract business? • What will you charge for your services? • What are the set-up costs and ongoing expenses? • What are your financial forecasts, i.e. how much money do you plan on making? You can download some great business plan templates online, such as the one available from www.business.gov.au.

Choose a business structure The three most common types of business structures are sole trader status, a partnership and a proprietary limited company. It is important to understand


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the advantages and disadvantages of each to work out which one best suits your business model and needs. A sole trader business structure can be relatively simple to set up and operate under. It may be a good option if you are trading as an individual as it allows you to use your own Tax File Number to lodge returns and doesn’t require you to have a separate business bank account. All you’ll need to obtain is an Australian Business Number (ABN). Before settling on a business structure, it’s best to seek advice from a business advisor, solicitor or accountant.

Finance and budgeting Getting your financing and budgeting right from the get-go is a key element to start-up success. Traditionally, obtaining finance to start a new business was verging on the impossible, but fortunately there many options available today. Some of the ways you can finance your business may include using your own savings, borrowing from family or friends, obtaining a loan from a financial institution (you may need to use your residential property as security), revenue-based funding, credit cards, and Federal and State business funding programs. Microenterprise Loans may be an alternative option if you have little or no assets and you’re not able to access a business credit card. Available through some of the big banks in partnership with a variety of training organisations, Microenterprise Loans are generally offered at fixed low interest rates. The best part is that they also provide training, mentoring and small business advice to loan recipients. But before you take out a hefty loan, seeking professional advice is important to ensure the option you choose meets your circumstances and objectives. In addition, ask yourself ‘do I really need to splash out on fancy décor?’ Money spent on promoting your salon may be money more wisely spent.

Marketing your business Let’s be honest, overnight sensations are very few and far between, but that doesn’t mean you have to spend your life savings on marketing your salon. There are a lot of low cost options to get your business noticed. • Invest in a website. These days it’s cheap and often at times free to use one of the many website building tools that are available online. Make sure you update your content regularly and research ways to optimise your site according to Google search terms. • Consider online advertising. There are many online business directories where you can you can list your salon for free or for a small charge. For example, Google My Business helps people from your local area find you. Don’t automatically rule out paid advertising – Google Ad Words can be very effective if you only have a small budget to spend. • Make the most of social media. Facebook and Instagram accounts can be very effective if you use them to promote your services, give beauty tips and product advice, and run competitions. Another way to promote your business via social media is by following and engaging with influencers in the beauty industry to help get yourself noticed, this a valuable source of networking worth investing in. • Ask for feedback. Don’t be afraid to ask your clients for feedback and recommendations. You can do this via the ‘Recommend’ function on Facebook or if you have set up Google My Business your clients can

provide a Google review. To create momentum, you may offer an incentive such as ‘$5 off your next visit’ for leaving a review.

Reduce the risk factor Like every business venture there is an element of risk, but by doing your business homework you can reduce your risk and greatly increase your chances of success. Fortunately, you can also take out insurance to help protect your salon against some of the many risks it will face daily. A good insurance plan should be a priority for every salon owner, regardless of the size of your business. One unexpended incident is enough to throw your salon into turmoil and potentially put you out of business. The types of insurance you need to consider include: • Professional Indemnity cover will protect you against financial losses for legal action taken against you for the services or advice that you provide, for example, if one of your clients suffers an allergic reaction to a treatment you have provided. • Public and Product Liability protects against damages arising from claims of personal injury or property damage that may occur as a result of your business activities. • Business Insurance allows you to tailor your cover to protect your assets against loss or damage due to unexpected events such as fire, storm, theft and accidental damage. It can also provide cover for financial loss if you are unable to operate due to an insurable event with the Business Interruption option. • Personal Accident and Illness cover protects you from financial difficulties if you are unable to work and earn an income due to serious illness and injury. n Don’t forget to read your policy terms and conditions carefully and understand any relevant exclusions. BizCover™ Pty Ltd (ABN 68 127 707 975; AR 338440) is a corporate authorised representative of Mega Capital Pty Ltd (ABN 37 098 080 418; AFSL 238549). This is general advice only and does not take into account your objectives, financial situation or needs. Terms and conditions apply to all policies and before making any decision around your insurance needs, you should read the relevant Product Disclosure Document (PDS) and policy wordings.

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Why she buys

THE WAY SHE BUYS In the third of a series of articles on the science of female shopping, Neil Osborne explains how women follow a spiral pattern when buying, moving between logic and emotion. MEN AND WOMEN differ. And their buying habits are no different. Shopping is female. There are two fundamental building blocks that support that wildly sexist statement. Guys are genetically disposed to being hunters – they walk through the woods and consider themselves unsuccessful in their pursuit unless they kill something relatively quickly and drag it home to display and use. Women, however, are the gatherers, who gain pleasure from the act of looking and taking time to find the perfect solution to satisfy their needs and wants. In this way, women can spend all day looking, buy nothing and still have a wonderful time. Why? Because females have a greater affinity for what’s thought of as ‘shopping’.

Part Three: Females Buy Differently Even when it’s for mundane necessities that bring no particular pleasure, women will still shop quite willingly, in a dependable, agreeable fashion. So what’s so desirable about this act? As author Paco Underhill explains it’s, “…walking at a relaxed pace through stores, examining merchandise, comparing products and values, interacting with sales staff, asking questions, trying things on and ultimately making purchases.” By comparison, men shop fast, spend less time looking, rarely look any anything other than what they intend to buy, usually don’t ask

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where anything is, nor look at price tags until they get to the register. And if a man can’t find it the first time, he’ll give up, shut down and turn around and walk out – all without asking for help. He gains no joy from the whole messy process. That’s exactly why our buying patterns look so vastly different.

Shopping freed women What is it that makes women good shoppers? It’s what they get out of it. Some say there’s a hangover from their prehistoric role that required skilful ‘shopping’ (AKA gathering nutritious and non-poisonous roots, nuts and berries) to nurture and ensure their children’s survival. Others propose that for centuries the powerful patriarchal structure kept women at home and out of the world of commerce, except as customers at the retail level, where they relished the opportunities it presented. Whatever the reason, one thing is clear: shopping has allowed women to leave the house. It was (and in some parts of world, still is) their only realm of public life. And whatever influence they lacked (or were withheld from) in the business world, in the marketplace they’ve always been the people who call the shots. Today, never a truer word was written. Women now hold the power when it comes to the success (and failure) of your brand and business. If you’re unable to adapt to their needs, wants and evolving lives, it’s akin to watching dinosaurs die out. In his book, Why We Buy, Underhill notes the extinction of the once flourishing species of home sewing machines. In the 1950s, 75 per cent of American households owned sewing machines. Today, it’s fewer than five per cent. During the intervening decades of socioeconomic upheaval, women went from being homebound – sewing and repairing wardrobes of clothes for the entire family – to now, when anything more than reattaching a button is probably never going to happen. To survive, Mr Singer changed his business model and became a manufacturer of military weaponry.


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The spiral path When you observe women shopping (as I have), or are actively participating, you quickly realise that for women, there are psychological and emotional aspects that are absent for men. Women become absorbed in the ritual of seeking, comparing, imagining, and envisaging the items in use. They care and take pride in ensuring they’ve tallied up the pros and cons of the purchase over another item, including its price. All that must be done before they consider handing over any money. Marti Barletta, author of the book Marketing to Women, has captured how a woman’s purchasing decision differs from a man’s. She calls it ‘The Spiral Path’. She explains:

“From start to finish, women and men seek, search and research differently. There are four key disparities in how women and men advance through their purchase path: 1. Women start the process differently – by asking around 2. Women pursue a different outcome – the ‘Perfect Answer’ 3. Women seek out more information and investigate more options – the Spiral Path 4. Women’s influence on sales success doesn’t end with their purchase – the Retention and Recommendation stages.” Women go through a more complex and detailed decision-making process than men. Men’s decision-making path tends to be fast and linear: they tend to move straight through the stages without detours or tangential moves, seeking a ‘Good Solution’ as their end goal. However, women move through their decision “…in a series of cycles, often looping back to an earlier stage of the process as they reconsider previous decision factors and integrate new information, seeking the Perfect Answer.”

The perfect answer Fundamentally, this is where men and women depart from one another when making a purchase. Men look for a Good Solution. Women set out to find the Perfect Answer. Men define the product or service they want in terms of the features that are most important to them. They create a shortlist of criteria and then work through the process, eliminating options as they try to find a solution that matches the criteria. Once a match is made, they’re done. Women start with a generalised sense of the situation they want to address. Then, according to Barletta, they “…factor in additional considerations as they move through the decision process, and keep exploring options until they are satisfied that they have found not just a workable solution but the best possible answer. In short, men are buyers, whereas women are shoppers.” In other words, women don’t define their goal by product features, but by end use. If the item she’s considering doesn’t meet all the criteria she set (plus any others she’s added through her pathway) then it’s only a partial solution.

In her mind, the Perfect Answer may be only a few shops away and how will she ever know, unless she keeps looking? And so it continues…

Focus on their pathway The path a woman takes to reach a purchase decision takes time. And several visits. Her search for perfection makes her reluctant to buy until all possible options have been examined, considered and discussed. But the pathway offers many opportunities. How? Again, let’s turn to Barletta’s wisdom to explain: “…identify the one or two stages in the purchasing process that have the most opportunity for increasing your business. Concentrate most of your marketing on the most important stage, rather than spreading your marketing budget across the entire decision process. … Say your most important marketing goal is retention and recommendation — helping the customer stay committed to your brand and improving your customer relationship. You might engage in a referral program or improvements to your customer support. The bottom line: do your research; pick your marketing strategy and stick with it. If your brand has a consistently appealing message to women in the most important decision-making stage, women will take notice and reward you with their purchases.” It’s also worth noting that, curiously, it seems our online shopping patterns are the inverse of normal bricks-and-mortar habits. In the online environment, women stick to their list, buy and get out, while men tend to take more time to browse before they buy.

Women are searchers Each gender is baffled by the other’s behaviour. Men eliminate options, while women add more into the mix. Men could seem tunnel-visioned, while women may appear fickle and indecisive. Neither is better, they’re just different. What is certain, is that in her search for the Perfect Answer, a woman continually examines, compares, interacts, asks and tries. If you satisfy her path, at every point, she’ll then buy. Again. And again. n Neil Osborne is an elite sales trainer and brand coach who has devoted more than 30 years of his working life to the salon industry. He has been responsible for dramatically growing brands and businesses by helping them launch, develop and change their sales results with his salonspecific, results driven methods. Contact him at The Sales Catalyst, 1300 302 859 or go to www.thesalescatalyst.com.au

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GET (TIME) SMART You can’t increase the number of hours in a day, but you can make the most of the time you have, explains Joanne Neville.

DO YOU OFTEN feel like you don’t have enough time? There are a limited number of hours in the day so it’s important to effectively use the time you do have. Here are seven strategies to help you become smarter with your time.

If you find all your tasks are key to achieving your goals, you’ll need to prioritise your tasks based on the time pressures or deadlines associated with them. By knowing exactly what you need to get done in a day you won’t waste time wondering what you should do or worry about the million things you need to do. Instead you’ll focus your mind on efficiently completing an achievable to-do list.

1. Plan your day

3. Focus on one thing at a time

It’s important to plan your day. This ensures you’re more efficient with your time as you’re more focused when you have a clear to-do list. A good place to start is with a daily planner. This doesn’t need to be fancy; it simply needs to capture what you need to get done that day. Get started now by downloading our daily planner template here: bit.ly/Kitomba-daily-planner.

There’s being busy and then there’s being productive, and it’s important to remember the two don’t necessarily go hand in hand. Being busy can see you checking emails, setting your staff targets and making a phone call all at the same time. However, task hopping is a productivity killer. So focus on just one task at a time. In doing this it’ll have your full attention and you can put all your energy into it. You should notice you’re finishing tasks faster and doing better work.

2. Complete the most important tasks first

4. Set a time limit for each task

You should aim to identify a maximum of three tasks that must be completed each day and these should be done first over anything else on your to-do list. If you’re finding it difficult to choose just three tasks, think about your goals. Having clear goals will help you decide which tasks are really important as they will go towards achieving them.

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Another approach is to set a time limit for each task. Instead of sitting down to work on a task and thinking, “I’ll work on this until it’s finished” try saying to yourself, “I’m going to work on this for an hour”. A time constraint pushes you to be more focused and more efficient. Remember to set achievable deadlines. You need to allow yourself enough time so you’re relaxed and can do a good job, but be careful not to allow too much time as you can easily become distracted or end up wasting the time. When it comes to bigger projects, make sure you break them down into individual tasks with shorter timeframes. It’ll make the project seem more


achievable and allow you to complete part of the project even if your daily planner shows you only have half an hour to spare. Tip: Try setting shorter meeting times. You may find that a tight timeframe forces you to use the time you have more effectively.

5. Work smarter, not harder You can work smarter by being more thoughtful about how you complete a task. Always ask yourself if you need to do it, if something can be done more efficiently or if you could delegate it to someone else. Managing your time isn’t about squeezing as many tasks into your day as possible. It’s about simplifying how you work, doing things faster, and relieving stress. You can also work smarter by batching similar tasks together. To do this, group like tasks and complete them consecutively. Different tasks demand different types of thinking, so it makes sense to allow your mind to continue to flow on its current thought pattern.

6. Use technology This one may seem obvious and you’ll most certainly already be using technology in your day-to-day life, but there are some tools you may not be aware of that can save you time. SALON SOFTWARE: Set targets, manage your stock and create automatic messages like happy birthdays and appointment reminders. Doing this manually is possible but a huge time waster. SOCIAL MEDIA: Schedule your social media posts in advance for a week or even a month using free scheduling tools like Hootsuite or Buffer. DEVICES: Grab a couple of affordable tablets for the salon and your entire team will save some serious time. Your staff can quickly check client notes between appointments, save photos and documents as they complete their client consultations, and even make their clients’ next booking. Make sure your team has access to your software on their smartphones too – they can check their appointment list and targets whenever they need to. PROJECTS: Asana is a free tool that allows you to plan projects, track progress and assign tasks to individuals in your team.

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7. Learn to delegate If you’re a salon owner or manager you may need to delegate tasks – you simply can’t do everything even though a lot of us try to. It might be easy to ‘just do it yourself ’ but this is where a lot of time is wasted. As a salon owner or manager, you need to focus on the business and your team while your staff members help you with the rest. Tip: Create owners in each area where you require assistance. For example, put someone in charge of stock management who is responsible for receiving stock orders, completing stock takes and looking after merchandising. There could be a social media owner, too. This person could draft the content calendar, load posts and snap photos of what’s going on in the salon. Giving your staff ownership over an area in the salon will make them more invested in the success of the area and the business. You may even find they discover ways to make some great improvements. There’s no way to increase the number of hours in a day, but there are plenty of ways to be smarter with the time you do have. So challenge yourself by starting to use even just one of these strategies in your day-to-day life and see how much time you can save. n Joanne Neville is the marketing manager at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software. To learn more about what Kitomba can do for your business, visit www.kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.

03 9580 7274 — www.summertansystems.com

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Time to

Face(book) facts

Facebook will not be your clinic’s friend in 2018, writes Jonathan Carroll. IN JANUARY 2018, the founder of Facebook, Mark Zuckerberg, announced major changes that will already be affecting your clinic on Facebook. This announcement will change the way your clinic or salon attracts customers from Facebook in 2018. If part of your marketing budget currently goes to paying an employee or external company to create and post on your Facebook page, this is now a waste of your money and it’s time to stop. Why? Because: “Posts you see in your News Feed are meant to keep you connected to the people, places and things that you care about, starting with your friends and family,” according to Facebook. Facebook has always been a ‘social network’, it has never been a ‘sales network’. The announcement above is not a new direction from Facebook, they have always had this focus, they are just doing something about it now. The most important part of this statement is “starting with your friends and family”. According to Facebook, the average Facebook user has about 338 friends. This means Facebook will now give priority to the photos, videos and content from the on-average 338 of your friends and family, ahead of your business’s unpaid posts.

Why has Facebook done this? While the announcement by the Facebook founder was not aimed at the beauty or aesthetic industry, it was aimed at businesses in general. Facebook has been moving this way for many years. If we went back three years, maybe 40% of the posts you put on your business page appeared on the News Feed of the people who ‘liked’ your Facebook page. In 2017, this fell to less than 2%, meaning almost all of the people who liked your page did not see your content.

How will this affect your clinic? To understand how powerful this announcement is for businesses in 2018, we need to look at how people use Facebook. When you log into Facebook on your mobile or computer, you will see your News Feed. The News Feed is where you see everything that is on Facebook. People typically

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don’t visit business pages or groups - if they like your business page, it will be from their News Feed. The exception to this rule are those consumers who are close to making a purchase decision. At this stage, consumers are looking for reviews and they are looking for an expected result, or proof that you can do what you say you can do. Google Reviews is an obvious first port-of-call, but Facebook also captures reviews on business pages. Consumers will most likely visit your Facebook page to see reviews and look at photos like your before and after photos, to get an idea on how they could look, or the result they could expect.

So what’s the good news? The good news is that Facebook and Instagram can be a viable and consistent source of paying customers for your business. Our agency data shows, that paid advertising on Facebook and Instagram generates on average 30-40% of the contacts for a clinic. Here are a few steps to take: • Stop posting on your Facebook page for the sake of it. The “happy Monday” posts are a waste of time. Post relevant treatment content (before and after photos etc.). • Focus on educating consumers. • Make sure you have the Facebook Pixel on your website and you are using it. • Learn how to get the most out of paid advertising, or pay an agency that can deliver you leads.

How to target your ideal customer on Facebook Through the Facebook Ads Manager or ads platform, you can advertise on Facebook and Instagram. In the past two years, Facebook has done a lot of work on allowing businesses to target their ‘ideal customer’. Facebook collects thousands of data points on every user, the websites they visit, purchases they make and the content they like. Let’s look at an example to see how specific you could get in your advertising: Your clinic offers laser hair removal services in Sydney. You can target all females between the age of 25 and 45, within 10km of your clinic who are interested in “hair removal” + “waxing” + “IPL” + “plucking” + “epilator” + “brazilian waxing” and more. This is called interest targeting and it is a very effective way to reach an audience that does not know you, but are interested in the services you offer. In 2018, paid advertising is now essential to reach potential customers. If your clinic is not currently attracting paying customers consistently from the major digital channels like Facebook, Instagram and Google, it is time to add this to your marketing strategy. To start, you will either need to learn how to target potential customers or pay a company or consultant to do this for you. n Jonathan Carroll is the Marketing Director at Engage Online Marketing. Contact www.EngageOnlineMarketing.com.au


BUSINESS

EDUCATION

underpins

EXCELLENCE When it comes to cosmetic surgery and medicine, patient education should always come first, writes Jenny Vallance.

AS COSMETIC SURGERY and medicine trends are always evolving and demand for procedures continues to rise, it’s important to remember that patient education must always come first. The allure of beauty, youthfulness, increased confidence and a healthy glow motivates people to book in for traditional beauty services such as facials and body wraps. These are also the factors that inspire many people to consider cosmetic medical and cosmetic surgery procedures. While the motivation to look their best drives clients into both traditional beauty salons and the cosmetic medical and surgical arena, the level of intervention and range of outcomes achievable clearly sets the latter apart. Cosmetic medical procedures include injectable treatments such as toxins to relax wrinkles and fillers to create volume and shape. They also include the vast range of laser and other energy-based technologies for everything from skin rejuvenation to hair removal and body contouring. Cosmetic surgery involves an ever-growing range of procedures targeting every area of the face and body. Rhinoplasty (nose surgery), breast augmentation and liposuction are typically highest in demand. As a beauty therapist or salon owner who is in a position of trust, it is always best to advise clients who discuss their desire for a cosmetic enhancement to do their research and not rush the decision. To further guide this discussion, you may find resources such as the patient information brochure produced by the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) helpful.

This brochure outlines some of the questions you should ask of your doctor and yourself if you’re considering a cosmetic medical or cosmetic surgical procedure. Every procedure carries risks and it’s essential to make an informed decision before going ahead. You can also remind your clients that a detailed consultation to fully assess patient expectations can only be conducted when it is backed by experience and procedure-specific education. The primary goal of the ACCS is to ensure the safe provision of cosmetic medicine and cosmetic surgical procedures to the Australian community through the supply of appropriately trained and certified healthcare practitioners. Established in 1999, the ACCS is a not-for-profit, multi-disciplinary fellowship-based college of general surgeons, cosmetic surgeons, plastic surgeons, maxillofacial surgeons, cosmetic physicians, dermatologists, ear, nose and throat surgeons, ophthalmologists, general practitioners and other doctors who practice in cosmetic medicine and surgery. The College also admits nurses as affiliate members. The ACCS is the only medical college that provides education and training leading to fellowship specifically in cosmetic medicine and surgery. Fellows of the College are medical doctors who have completed post-graduate education and training and have demonstrated competency specifically in cosmetic medicine and surgery. To become an ACCS Fellow, doctors must typically complete a minimum of 12 years’ medical and/or surgical education and training. The ACCS also runs specific educational forums and workshops throughout the year on topics such as cosmetic injection techniques, liposuction and laser. We also run an annual conference, Cosmetex, a multidisciplinary forum bringing together the leading cosmetic medical and cosmetic surgical practitioners from Australia and globally to evolve best practice. The new format for Cosmetex 2018, which will be held at the Hilton Hotel in Sydney on 16 and 17 August, steps things up to an even higher level of excellence. The focus is on dedicated masterclasses offered to a limited number of delegates to enable more in-depth learning, exchange and development of techniques. n Jenny Vallance is General Manager of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery. www.accs.org.au

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When

VEGIES aren’t enough Although vegetarians and vegan diets are healthy for the body, they can have detrimental effects on the skin, says Yvette van Schie, but supplements can help. AS THERAPISTS WE all know that what we eat and drink affects our skin, no matter what other professionals say. Although I am in favour of veganism for ethical and sustainable reasons, I must admit, I have found there are a few skin downsides to this diet. The downsides I have actually experienced, quite unpleasantly, even with a thoughtful approach to the diet, consciously working at balancing protein and carbohydrates. This does not mean that you cannot over-come them – as I have, but when dropping all animal fats from the diet, it does mean you need to replace them with other fats (healthy of course) and a lot of natural plant proteins, or unfortunately you will lose your face as you age. I remember a few years ago social media dining out on photos comparing Nigella Lawson at 51 versus health guru and then-vegan Gillian McKeith at 51. Nigella, as always, looked gorgeous while Gillian looked ‘shrivelled’ and more like 58. At the time I thought it was pretty nasty, but it made me a tad worried as I was heading towards my 50s and had started to give up the ethical meat I had been eating.

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Nonetheless I became a vegetarian and then progressed to being a vegan who only ate eggs laid by my own hens. Although enjoying my new eating habits immensely, I did find myself with an unpleasant downside. I gained a huge amount of weight – so much so that in six months the dress I bought for my daughter’s wedding was two sizes too small for me. And now the wedding was only two months away. Meanwhile, my daughter was on a ketogenic diet, she lost half her body weight in this same time. Her skin was clearer than it had ever been, her eyes were bright and her muscle tone extraordinary. My skin and muscle tone was exactly the opposite. Although my hair has been white and grey for a long time, my average age was guessed at around 35-40, when I was actually 52. Now, people guessed my actual age or thought that I was even older. I had to do something but eating meat was not on the agenda. Meanwhile, I found out that I was not the only one suffering with skin and muscle tone problems. I had noticed a decrease in skin elasticity in a few of my clients, and the one thing they all had in common was, like me, they had chosen to go vegetarian or vegan and were also pre or post-menopausal (a time when muscle mass tends to decrease) This was of course not surprising as animal protein does support collagen production, and build muscle mass, but I knew there had to be a solution as some of the most beautiful women in this world who look years younger than their age are vegetarians (think Christie Brinkley) and some of the bestlooking body builders I have seen are vegan.


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So how do vegans and vegetarians replace the animal protein that supports collagen production and builds muscle mass. Many use supplements, and as a beauty therapists you can recommend or even stock such supplements to help your vegan and vegetarian clients improve their skin and increase their muscle mass. The following foods and supplements are not only suitable for vegans or vegetarians, they also contain important nutrients needed by everyone.

Spirulina Spirulina is a microscopic freshwater plant containing over 100 synergistic nutrients. Basically, it is a natural vitamin tablet, but being an unrefined whole food it is absorbed up to 16 times more effectively than multivitamin supplements. Gram for gram it is one of nature’s richest and most complex sources of nutrition. It is one of nature’s richest sources of protein (65 percent of its weight, which is 300 times more than fish, meat or poultry) but with zero cholesterol. It contains 58 times more iron than spinach per gram and 28 times more than raw beef liver. It is a rich natural whole-food source of antioxidants, being 25 percent richer in beta-carotene than carrots. It is two times richer in chlorophyll than alfalfa, barley grass or wheatgrass, so is more cleansing to the body. It is a highly concentrated source of essential fatty acids (EFAs) which are important for hormone balance. It contains important B complexes and natural vitamin E, along with Calcium, and other essential chelated minerals and trace elements. It also contains selenium, methionine, cysteine, super oxide dismutase, glutathione peroxides, copper, manganese, Zinc, B1, B2, B3, B5, and B6. Spirulina also provides a wide range of delicate phytonutrients with very significant health benefits. Spirulina promotes weight loss and low-fat stores through a variety of mechanisms. It can also curb hunger. To maximise this benefit, spirulina should be consumed at breakfast and lunch.

Plant-based collagen tablets Many of these tablets contain vitamin C as without vitamin C collagen production is disrupted and can result in a wide variety of problems throughout the body. Unfortunately, humans are unable to produce vitamin C on their own and must rely on food and supplements as a source.

Vegan fermented protein powder Fermentation is a traditional process that essentially ‘predigests’ food, making it easier to breakdown and use the nutrients. By fermenting legumes, it reduces anti-nutrients that can make these vegetables difficult to digest (no bloating). Fermentation also aids the unlocking of food molecules so the foods’ nutrients are more easily digestible.

Flaxseed oil Flaxseed oil is important for whole body nutrition and is considered to be nature’s richest source of omega-3 fatty acids which are required for the health of almost all body systems. It contains omega-6 and omega-9 essential fatty acids, B vitamins, potassium, lecithin, magnesium, fibre, protein, and zinc and also provides approximately 50 percent more omega-3 oils than that you could get from taking fish oil, minus that horrible ‘fishy’ after taste. Flaxseed oil is not only nutritionally dense, it is the ultimate beauty tablet for amazing skin – everyone who wants great skin, loves this oil.

Amino acid supplements Amino acids are found in all forms of protein, and plant protein powders, but highly active vegans may require extra amino acids to help them maintain

enough muscle mass to support their high energy output. Also needed in everyone’s diet are amino acids such as glycine – found in bananas, beans, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, kale, kiwifruit, pumpkin and spinach. And the amino acid proline, found in alfalfa sprouts, asparagus, beans buckwheat, cabbage, cucumber, chives, tempeh, watercress and white mustard seeds.

Lysine Lysine is required for collagen synthesis. As it isn’t readily available in plant foods vegetarians and vegans should ensure their diets includes black beans, kidney beans, lentils, lima beans, pistachios, potatoes, pumpkin seeds, tempeh and quinoa.

Garlic This powerful herb contains lipoic acid and taurine, both of which repair damaged collagen. It is also a good source of sulphur, which is a major player in collagen synthesis.

Antioxidants These powerhouses protect your collagen from free radical damage. And the best way to load up on antioxidants is by eating the rainbow – red beets and peppers, oranges, carrots and sweet potatoes, dark leafy greens and purple berries.

Soy The ubiquitous little soybean can help vegetarians and vegans get beautiful skin. Almost every soy product available contains genistein, which increases the production of collagen in the dermis. Genistein also contains enzymes that neutralise free radicals and help to preserve the skin, making it a more powerful anti-aging tool. If you are reading this as a young vegetarian or vegan and thinking “I look amazing, I have never felt or looked this good – What are you on about?” be aware that youth is maintaining your muscle mass. If however you start eating and supplementing correctly, you will find your energy levels will soar, and you will continue to keep looking and feeling amazing, and will be able to happily and healthily stay a vegan for the rest of your life. n Yvette van Schie is a qualified beauty therapist and makeup artist who has been a practitioner of holistic beauty for 28 years. Contact www.ethixbeautyblog.com

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HEALING ROSACEA – naturally

A holistic approach is essential for treating rosacea. Janine Tait, founder of Bestow Beauty looks at the topical, nutritional and lifestyle factors to consider when treating this red-faced condition.

NEXT TIME YOU walk down the street, notice how many women you spot who have visible patches of redness on their forehead, noses, cheeks or chin. This tell-tale sign of rosacea is especially prevalent during winter when cold winds and airconditioning inflame sensitive skins. Rosacea is a latin word which literally means ‘roses’. Poetic as this sounds, the reality is often prosaic, embarrassing and painful. Traditional approaches to treating rosacea often fail to address the condition holistically, and as a result, are not very effective long term. Many women have resigned themselves to just living with their permanent red flush. This saddens me, as I have experienced first hand the skin transformation that can occur when a beauty therapist takes a ‘slow beauty’ approach to healing rosacea. But before we outline solutions, let’s get a good understanding of what it is we are actually dealing with.

What Is Rosacea? Rosacea is a skin inflammation disorder. The word inflame offers us a telling clue – with this condition the skin ‘flames’ from within. Inflammation is the body’s response to a perceived threat and a sensitive rosacea skin will be over-thetop in its reactions. In technical terms, rosacea is caused by an increased reactivity of the capillaries to heat. This leads to episodic flushing and ultimately to more permanent symptoms like telangiectasia. There is no known cause, however rosacea most commonly affects women from 30 to 50 years of age,

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especially those with fair skin, blue eyes and Celtic ancestry. Rosacea sufferers will typically have a history of sensitive, red skin.

The Three Stages of Rosacea Development Early warning signs are episodic erythema, flushing and blushing. STAGE 1 Persistent erythema with telangiectasia. When erythema, or skin redness, becomes permanent rather than episodic, the skin develops telangiectasia, characterised by visible threadlike red lines or patterns on the surface of the skin STAGE 2 Persistent erythema, telangiectasia, papules and tiny pustules. As the disorder progresses, red papules appear which are round and domeshaped rather than pointed. These lesions can last days, weeks or even months, however there are no comedones present. Tiny pustules also occur at stage two. STAGE 3 Persistent deep erythema, dense telangiectasia, papules, pustules and nodules. In the final stage the symptoms are acute, painful and conspicuous and the papules become more pronounced. The skin can be very sensitive and topical skincare, make-up or sunscreen can sting the skin.

Medical Approaches to Treating Rosacea Mainstream medical approaches focus on reducing the topical symptoms of rosacea. Oral antibiotics can help to reduce inflammation and lessen the papules. This can be effective in many clients but it compromises gut health. Topical antibiotics such as metronidazole can be used intermittently or long term for mild cases and in combination with oral antibiotics for more severe cases. Topical steroids should never be applied to rosacea. From a slow beauty perspective, these medical approaches can help therapists to get a head start with healing rosacea, but they are not a


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healthy long-term solution. I have often seen IPL and laser treatments recommended for rosacea suffers, however in my opinion the skin is too weakened and inflamed to cope with this type of treatment. It is ultimately more effective to identify what is ‘feeding the flame’ and to help a client to make the skincare, environmental, dietary and lifestyle changes that will get to the root of the problem.

A Holistic Approach to Topical Care of Rosacea A rosacea skin often has a very compromised skin barrier function meaning it has minimal defence against environmental inflammation threats. I avoid any product or treatment that compromises the skin barrier further. Watch out for foaming cleansers which strip the skin’s sebum and alkaline washes which unbalance the skin’s natural protection. Although you might be tempted to give your client heavy protective creams, I find a lighter approach works better. Use skincare products that are nourishing and supportive to inflamed skin. I recommend you focus on anti-inflammatory herbs, which help to reduce redness and high-quality plant oils which help protect the skin. Once the inflammation has settled you can prescribe heavier creams.

Working From Within To Heal Rosacea Skin AVOID FOODS THAT HEAT THE SKIN There are certain foods that can heat and inflame the skin from within. Common culprits are caffeine, alcohol, and spicy food, but even strawberries and oranges can have an inflaming effect. These heating foods are called vasodilators – vaso referring to the blood, and dilating meaning to expand. They sensitise skin by increasing blood flow through the fine capillary system that feeds the skin cells. Obviously, this will exacerbate skin which has rosacea sensitivity and cause it to immediately ‘flare up’. HEATING FOODS TO AVOID Oranges, orange juice, strawberries, chocolate, chilli, hot spices, curries, wasabi, alcohol, coffee, caffeine. SKIN COOLING ALTERNATIVES Fresh herbs and less ‘spicy spices’ such as ginger, cloves, nutmeg, cumin and coriander, herbal teas, tahini, medjool dates and figs. HOW TO HELP YOUR CLIENT DITCH COFFEE AND ALCOHOL I have worked with many clients with rosacea and in many cases found that until a client was willing to give up coffee and alcohol it was impossible to get a good result. The best strategy is to help your client to reframe their rituals around these drinks. Coffee is often about timeout or getting an energy boost. Help them to replace coffee with green tea, for a natural low-caffeine buzz, and make sure they still have a time out ritual around it. Similarly, alcohol might be about socialising or unwinding. Help them to discover healthier ways to relax and have fun, with a nice glass of soda and lime in tow to give them something to hold in their hand. INTRODUCE EFAS TO REBUILD THE SKIN BARRIER A good quality Essential Fatty Acid (EFA) supplement is an essential nutritional building block for helping the skin to produce a healing and protective skin barrier. I use a special skin-friendly blend of cold pressed, organic safflower and flax seed oil. EFAs not only boost the protection of the acid mantle but also support the bi-layers in the stratum corneum, which are crucial for protecting the skin from environmental conditions that provoke rosacea.

Environmental and Lifestyle Factors in Rosacea HEATING Clients who are serious about healing their rosacea will need to avoid direct contact with heat. A rosacea skin will be sensitive to anything that causes a change in the skin’s temperature. Your client should avoid sun exposure, sitting too close to the fire, or having the car heater blast warm air directly onto their face. While showering, they should also avoid putting their faces under the steady stream of hot water. Some clients I have worked with developed rosacea from being in jobs which exposed their faces to heat. A significant number were chefs or kitchen workers. Giving them strategies to reduce the impact of the heat on their skin was an important part of their treatment. Even simple things like letting the heat escape from the oven before taking out the food, reduces the stress on the skin. In some cases rosacea can develop when fine, sensitive skins are exposed to an atmosphere heavy in fats and oils e.g. working over a deep fryer in a takeaway outlet. STRESS Stress is also an important factor to consider when treating rosacea. Emotional or physical stress is often expressed in skin inflammation. A ‘heated’ argument is not just a turn of phrase; notice the angry redness of the skin as voices rise and stress escalates. Find out about your clients stress levels, how well they are sleeping and whether they do any competitive or high impact exercise. The more you are aware of the underlying contributing causes, the better you can help clients to make positive changes to reduce stress in their lives. Avoiding Frustration and Setting Expectations In working with rosacea clients, you have to expect to play the long game with them. In the early stages of treatment the condition can flare for no apparent reason but once you and your client expect this it takes the angst out of it. You will find over time the condition flares less and less often and heals up faster each time. Eventually it will only flare on the rare occasion and by then the client will be switched on enough to identify the cause and know how to treat it. This is one of the things I love about slow beauty. It’s truly empowering for the client. n Janine Tait is New Zealand’s leading dermo-nutritionist and the founder of Bestow Beauty, which offers a beautiful range of organic super-food blends, recipes and rituals to nourish skin from within. She is also a respected leader within the Slow Beauty movement which champions a holistic approach to skincare. For more information on Bestow Beauty call 1800 625 387 or visit www.probeautysolutions.com.au

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REBEL with a CAUSE Beauty disrupter Sharon McGlinchey explains why the path to successful skincare should be simple.

WHEN WAS THE last time you questioned the ethics of what you do? Or the truth of the products, procedures and advice you promote? As one of Australia’s original beauty rebels and beauty disrupters, I’ve spent 20 years educating clients about the toxic reality of the commercial beauty industry and advocating for a paradigm shift – away from the sludge of chemicals, cheap fillers, never-ending new product launches and questionable marketing claims, to one built on deeper values: simplicity, integrity, naturenurture and an intrinsic understanding that skincare is self-care. Not long ago, practitioners who promoted organic skincare and a more holistic approach to beauty were relegated to the sidelines or ignored altogether. Today, thanks in part to the boom in the health and wellness industry – recently valued at a staggering $3.7 trillion globally, with beauty a $999 billion slice of the pie* – the tide has turned. According to the 2016 Deloitte Health and Wellness Report, more than 180,000 consumer goods products around the world have now been reformulated to promote a healthier diet and

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lifestyle, with the removal of parabens the number one priority for personal care and hygiene companies. Here in Australia, production of organic cosmetics, personal care products and essential oils rose by 18% each year in the five-year period between 2009 and 2014. Local organic skincare brands are finding favour – and a devout celebrity following – in the lucrative US and UK markets. A new generation is coming through and it is more aware than ever. Of course, there’s still a long way to go, but the important thing is that the message of the beauty disrupters is finally being heard. Honesty matters. Integrity matters. Beauty is not just skin deep.

THE 7 BEAUTY TRUTHS YOU NEED TO KNOW 1. The beauty industry thrives on mediocrity No matter the new trends or latest breakthroughs, the beauty industry continues to peddle and promote the same message: that the skin you’re in is not good enough, and only more products can fix it. Beauty disrupters fundamentally reject that notion – and with more education, so will most consumers. Great skincare isn’t about altering or controlling problems with ever more products; it’s about caring for a person’s health, helping them nurture and respect the most visible part of their psyche and spirit. It’s about empowering women. Commercial beauty keeps women trapped in a cycle of dis-ease, insecurity and mistruths that lead to more and more chemical intervention. By contrast, a natural or organic skincare routine is often based around daily ritual – daily moments of self-care that allow women to see, acknowledge and appreciate their skin and their life.


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2. Sunscreen is not for everyday use One of the most overused and unnecessary inclusions in moisturisers and foundations is SPF. Designed to block UVA and UVB rays during extended periods of sun exposure – the kind you experience on holiday or during a day at the beach – commonly used chemical SPF ingredients, such as oxybenzone, avobenzone, octocrylene and octisalate, are toxic and terrible for skin reactivity. Manufacturers of sunscreens are not required by law to disclose ingredients, so you have no way of knowing the preservative system, the number of chemical UV absorbers or the carrier oil – which is most likely mineral oil (a cheap petrochemical derivative). Clients who complain of congestion, dullness or sensitivity almost always wear sunscreen daily. Almost all of them also work full-time in an indoor environment, meaning their actual exposure to the sun is only for short intervals at lunch or on their commute. None think to question the logic of sunscreen - such is the entrenched fear around sun exposure. Sunscreens should be used appropriately, not by default. SPFs overburden the skin and can create short- and long-term issues. Encourage clients (who present with any form of sensitivity) to rethink their routine.

*2015 report from US-based Global Wellness Institute. https://www.globalwellnessinstitute.org/press-room/statistics-and-facts/

3. Removing parabens is not enough It’s a good start, but that’s all it is – a start. Most commercial skincare is still made from a worrying cocktail of synthetic ingredients, many of them petroleum-based. These ingredients do not have a natural affinity with the skin, they do not support it and can in fact interfere with the skin’s natural resilience and ability to protect itself. Just like antibiotics – which experts are now telling us are ruining the balance of good and bad bacteria in our gut, causing increased disease – commercial skincare is interfering with the delicate balance in our skin’s microbiome. By contrast, organic nature-based skincare works to create balance and harmony in the skin, and protect it from external irritants. It’s the beauty equivalent of clean eating. Women aren’t stupid – they know this instinctively, and this is clearly evident as they seek out organic, chemical-free skincare for their children. But decades of conditioning still leads them to choose commercial skincare themselves. This generation may be the change.

4. Over exfoliation will ruin (weaken) your skin long term Most beauty therapists advocate regular exfoliation, be it granular scrubs, hydroxy acid-based creams and lotions or herbal and enzyme peels. As if this were not enough, the highly-lucrative advanced exfoliating (re-surfacing) modalities including laser, dermabrasion and microdermabrasion are routinely recommended at intervals through the year. A course of six treatments being the rule, with one or two being the exception. The skin on the face is more sensitive than almost any other part of the body and yet we tend not to question stripping it in such a harsh way – and pay handsomely for the experience. Younger and younger people are being told to begin this process earlier in life, when the skin is more than capable of renewing itself and the dead skin cells slough off naturally. The industry has taught us not to trust the skin’s ability to renew itself and to take care of itself. Facial skin in a constantly state of recovery from micro or macro trauma is not natural and it is not healthy, regardless of what the beauty industry tells us.

5. Less is actually more The commercial beauty counter continues to advocate for more and more products – different moisturisers for day and night, and different parts of their face – with brands built around 120 SKUs and an expensive marketing campaign. The overriding idea is that, in order to feel special, women need the latest and greatest. And to be part of the conversation, beauty brands need

to be continually launching new products (and labelling these with the latest buzzword). The truth is, a woman needs very little in her bathroom cabinet to have great, healthy looking skin. Literally three or four well formulated products and a three-minute nurturing skincare regime is more than adequate. ‘Less is more’ has been my mantra for almost two decades and we can see through emerging trends and buying patterns that this approach has become more and more appealing to the time poor and the realists amongst us.

6. Anti-ageing has had its day In August 2017, Michelle Lee, the EditorIn-Chief of US beauty bible Allure, surprised many when she announced: “[We] are making a resolution to stop using the term ‘antiageing’. Whether we know it or not, we’re subtly reinforcing the message that ageing is a condition we need to battle – think antianxiety meds, antivirus software, or antifungal spray.” Lee went on to say it’s important that youth isn’t the only beauty that is prized, and that the words we use to describe people have impact. Today’s world is ageless; young and old are equally important in the market. Although driven more by the effects of globalisation than by ethics or critical discourse, this is still worth celebrating as it shifts the way we speak about and use skincare products. Health becomes the priority, not vanity or consumerism.

7. Ethics and integrity matter Beauty is a feeling, not a look. It’s not onedimensional. We’re all such amazing and complex individuals with so much to offer. How we look on the outside is only a small part of who we are. The older you get and the more life passes you by, the more you put things into perspective. As the organic beauty sector grows – and more of the big players launch and promote products labelled natural and organic – my hope is that the smaller players, the boutique brands that are very much in favour globally, hold onto their ethics. Already so many of them slip the anti-ageing label on their products through industry or investor pressure. Instead, I ask you to stop and consider: what guides your work as a beauty professional? What can you do every day to create a positive impact on someone and change a life forever? n Sharon McGlinchey is an awardwinning beauty therapist and the founder of MV Organic Skincare. Contact www.mvskincare.com

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BUSINESS

FRAGRANCE

– more than just good scents

It’s no coincidence that the majority of skin, hair and personal care products we buy are scented, says cosmetic chemist Isabel Sleiman. FRAGRANCE APPEALS TO our sense of smell and can strongly influence our buying patterns as humans are hard-wired to make decisions based on emotions. Imagine, if you will, a consumer looking at a crowded skin or haircare shelf in a pharmacy or department store. The choice is overwhelming. They go to the testers and try a few formulas on the back of their hand. Although they may look at the list of ingredients and the efficacy claims, the product they finally choose will more than likely have made an emotional attachment through their sensory perception.

Sensory studies Has an aroma ever transported you back to a memory buried deep in your subconscious? According to research into our sense of smell, or olfaction, sensory memory connects us to experiences and sensations, sometimes from our distant past. Sensory studies into marketing and consumer behaviour have found that a product’s scent greatly influences consumers, and will sway consumers to buy, regardless of its efficacy.

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Therefore, it is no coincidence that most of the cosmetics, toiletries and household products we buy today are scented to appeal to our sense of smell. In one sensory study, participants tested three gel formulations and three cream formulations. Two of each formula were scented, while one wasn’t. The results confirmed that the presence and type of scent used in the formulas had an effect on the perception of the tester. The study’s findings concluded that a consumer’s response to a cosmetic product lies not only on its efficacy, but how it was perceived through appearance (packaging), tangibility (how it felt on the skin) and smell.

Capitalising on emotional decision-making Knowing how to capitalise on consumer emotional decision-making could help your bottom line. As mentioned in our story The Power and the Glory of the Private Label in the Nov/Dec issue, many hair and beauty salons have discovered that offering clients their own private label products has many benefits. Not only are they clawing back the retail component of their income stream (a smarter solution than trying to compete with megastores who undercut the price of their product), but the power of their brand equity is providing many other wins. But back to emotions. Good sales people (and let’s face it, how many hairdressers or beauty therapists do you know aren’t good sales people?) develop the ability to connect with customers from an emotional place. And personal care products with a sweet lingering scent make it easy for customers to form emotional connections.


BUSINESS

Assessing fragrances

Did you know, when expanding your business model to include a private label range, you can select the fragrance of your choice for your formulas? Most private label manufacturers will have a range of fragrances in stock for you to try. Although fragrance trends are always changing, a constant in personal care products are floral notes. A couple of factors to consider before choosing a fragrance include: demographic, season and suitability. DEMOGRAPHIC: Who is your target market? Women? Men? Both? Young? Old? Floral scents such as jasmine, gardenia and rose are often favoured in females’ formulas. Leather, spicy and woody notes are used in masculine lines. While unisex products call for a mid-floral scents with woody notes, such as complementary notes of amber and spices or classic rose and new woods.

You can’t judge a perfume by sniffing an open bottle. A fragrance needs skin and body warmth to bloom and come alive. In fact, it takes two hours for a fragrance to go through its full evolution. To evaluate a fragrance properly, apply to your pulse points (wrists and neck) as they emit heat and help the fragrance to diffuse. Never rub your wrists together as this can distort the ingredients. The heady top notes will make the first impression on your skin. These notes are light and volatile and usually disappear within 10-15 minutes. As the top notes fade away, the middle or heart notes open and bloom. The heart notes expose the signature scent and form the core of the perfume. After two hours, the warm base or soul notes are revealed to bind and accentuate the signature scent, creating the memory that lingers on your skin, as well as in your memory. Note: as skin chemistry and diet can produce variations in scent, fragrances can smell different from person to person. So, when evaluating fragrances for your private label, test on non-skin surfaces as well, such as clothes and blotting paper.

Fragrance wheel courtesy of www.fragrancesoftheworld.com

Choosing fragrance for your private label products

Synthetic v natural

Young female consumers prefer sweet scents. However, Millennials tend to be fickle and will try a variety of products and fragrances, making them the most difficult to keep as loyal customers. Older demographic groups prefer classic scents. Once they have decided on a product and fragrance they like, they will usually stay loyal. SEASONAL: Products that are used primarily in the warmer months of year call for light, fresh, citrus and green notes. During the cooler months we tend to gravitate towards warmer notes, such as amber, vanilla, woods and spices. PRODUCT SUITABILITY: Floral and fruity notes are often used in bath products and body care. A scent that lasts is often called for in haircare, while you should avoid anything overpowering in facial skincare. Delicate creams and lotions need just a splash of a very light perfume, such as fragrances falling under fresh notes on the fragrance wheel. Keep in mind that if two products are to be layered, say shampoo and conditioner, or a serum and a moisturiser, their fragrances should be compatible.

Natural and synthetic fragrances are equally important to perfumers. When you take into consideration that it takes five kilograms of jasmine petals to make five millilitres of jasmine oil, then it’s no wonder perfumers rely on synthetic oils to enhance natural essences and make them sparkle with new notes. Believe it or not, the first designer to encourage synthetic notes was Coco Chanel. The result was Chanel No 5, a bouquet dominated by soft, clean notes of synthetic aldehydes entwined with jasmine and may rose. And according to perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, synthetic scents are often more beautiful that real ones. With synthetic fragrances, a perfumer can achieve the same aroma as natural scents and leave the flowers in the field. n Isabel Sleiman is a cosmetic chemist. She has extensive knowledge of ingredients, formulations and fragrances to create safe and effective products that customers delight in and love. www.trulux.com.au

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BUSINESS

Going

NATURAL

Belinda Hughes shares her tips for salons wanting to cash in on the booming natural and organic skincare industry. IN 2017 ANTI-AGING, including natural and organic skincare, was the largest segment in wellness. For someone who specialises in this segment, this is great news. Mostly. The flipside is the market is now so flooded with products (especially retail products produced by design and marketing experts) that clients and therapists are getting confused. People think it’s natural so it must be good for them, right? Not exactly. Clients who have been self-prescribing skincare via online stores will rarely get it right, and come to the therapist for skin correction. This is a great time to explain to the client about the difference between retail and professional brands. Professional brands have been formulated with the correct use and levels of active ingredients, stronger formulations and a trained therapist to help you find the right products for your skin. This is beneficial for clients as they will stop wasting money trying to find something that works for them. If therapists want to cash in on this booming industry my first piece of advice is to stick to industry brands. There are plenty of professionally formulated natural and organic skincare products on the market for you to choose from. These can sit next to your cosmeceutical brands to cater towards the wellness market, or you can specialise in natural and organic only. There are more than enough amazing brands to choose from. Combating misconceptions in the market can be tricky. There has been a real shift from clients asking, “That’s great, but does it work?” to clients messaging you, “Have you seen X new brand?” (usually the ‘hottest’ new retail brand being heavily marketed on Instagram via influencers). This can also be confusing for therapists as the marketing is very believable. A few key points that will help you and your clients see through the hype are: • Know ingredients inside out and check the ingredient deck first. This will tell you almost everything you need to know, no matter what the marketing says. Marketers are not skin therapists and often make wild claims that simply are not true to sell more products.

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• Watch out for products that contain high levels of essential oils. Too much of certain essential oils can be irritating on the skin and can cause UV sensitivity and reactions, especially on sensitive and reactive skins. • Build a great relationship with your clients. The trust a client has in you will win over marketing every time. They will believe your expertise over what a brand is saying, especially if you present them with the evidence in the ingredients listed. For example, ingredient X is comedogenic and will cause you to break out (which is a huge occurrence in retail brands as the formulators don’t understand skin). • Don’t confuse serums with oils. This one really bugs me, clients come in taking about the ‘serum’ they are using when it’s actually an oil and that’s why they’re not getting the results they desire. A serum is a gel emulsion that carries vitamins and antioxidants deep into the skin. Oil sits higher in the skin and is often not as an effective carrier. Originally, oils were designed to be mixed in with moisturisers to boost the lipid content for dry skin. The current trend of using oils neat on the skin can trip up your clients who may experience congestion, dullness or even dehydration. But they do make great cleansers. • Check how the product is made, including certifications and logos. Does the formulator proudly hand make everything in their kitchen? Brands like this should ring alarm bells, as the likelihood of fungal testing in a lab would be low, which could cause allergy and reactions in skin. If organic claims are being made, check for a logo like Australian Certified Organic or USDA. Once you get through all the hype in the market look into professional brands that will support your salon with incentives, professional at-home peels and masks, and industry training. Just like any other professional brand. I choose to exclusively work with natural and organic brands because I believe they nourish the skin the best to build healthy skin in the long term. Our bodies thrive on healthy fruits and vegetables and healthy skin responds the same. The results are not always as ‘instant’ as you get with chemical peels and retinols but in the long term I’ve found skin is healthier and looks younger. Nothing really replaces a healthy glow. Knowing your clientele in your salon is the key when choosing any brand. The place to start is by looking at your demographic. Are your clients really into wellness? How much do they like to spend on skincare? What are the skin conditions you see in the salon? Answering these questions and looking at your clients’ skin needs closely will help you decide if natural brands are for you and which one fits the best. Natural and organic skincare is more than a trend – it’s here to stay. It can prove profitable for salons through retail sales and attracting by new clientele, who love that salons are catering to their healthy lifestyles. n Belinda Hughes is the founder of the Natural Beauty Expert and a finalist in the 2016 My Face My Body Awards. www. belindahughes.com.au


WANT TO GROW YOUR BEAUTY BUSINESS? Absolute Cosmetic Medicine is one of Australia’s leading and most experienced cosmetic clinics. Are you are interested in expanding your salon or clinic’s services with cosmetic injectables? We can provide you with an experienced medical doctor, in-salon nurse injector, as well as training, compliance, business and marketing support. Cosmetic Nursing training is also available to nurses wanting to start their own exciting cosmetic clinic business!

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EVENTS

DERMAVIDUALS SYMPOSIUM AND CELEBRATION Dr Hans Lautenschläger, creator of dermaviduals, was in town to present the latest corneotherapy innovations and treatments at International dermaviduals Symposium. The symposium was held over three days at the Pullman Sydney Hyde Park. One of the highlights was the gala awards night, where Derma Aesthetics was awarded the International Marketing Award.

EDUCATION ON THE MENU FOR MELBOURNE dermaviduals welcomed 2018 with their biggest ever Melbourne skin education class. More than 50 guests attended the two-day event held at Travelodge Hotel Melbourne Docklands.

DERMALUX DECREE Dermalux once again won Energy Treatment of the Year at the 2017 Aesthetics Awards. The award continues a five-year winning streak where the LED treatment won Best New Treatment 2013 and Treatment of the Year in 2014, 2015 and 2016. More than 800 guests gathered at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge Hotel in London to celebrate the achievements of brands, clinics, practitioners, treatments and distributors in 26 categories across the entire industry.

SEPHORA SUCCESS FOR PRESS French cosmetics store Sephora held its first 2018 exclusive brands showcase at The Mint, Sydney. New makeup, skincare, fragrance, tools and haircare brands were on show at the event. A dedicated skincare bar was set up and beauty media had the chance to have their tresses tended to at the hair bar.

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EVENTS

BEAUTY BOOSTERS’ MEXICAN FIESTA Beauty media and influencers were treated to a sit-down lunch at Mexican restaurant Fonda in Bondi to launch Beauty Boosters. The range of ingestible supplements are made with a blend of complexion boosting nutrients designed to optimise skin health.

IMAGE SKINCARE’S CHIC SHINDIG To celebrate the announcement of Image Skincare’s four new products ahead of their world wide release in March, Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) was invited to attend the Image Skincare 2018 International Sales Meeting. PBS owners Matt and Lisa Williams flew to the US for the three-day event, which included a Resort Chic Cocktail Party at the Hilton West Palm Beach, and the annual Gala Awards Dinner, where PBS was awarded the 100 percent Club Award for Excellence.

DNA DISCUSSION Internationally renowned scientist, researcher, dermatologist and founder of DNA Renewal, Dr Ronald Moy, visited our shores recently to conduct information sessions in Melbourne and Sydney. The Beverly Hills dermatologist presented findings that showed DNA repair enzymes and growth factors were the most effective anti-ageing ingredients.

ROLL UP FOR TOTAL BEAUTY NETWORK CONFERENCE More than 80 representatives flew in from all over Australia to review results and discover new launches from INIKA Organic, Raww Cosmetics, Designer Brands and Colour by TBN at the Total Beauty Network (TBN) conference. It was the first time TBN had showcased all four brands together. The four-day conference included a company dinner with ‘The Greatest Show on Earth’ theme. PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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ROOFTOP RENDEZVOUS FOR DERMALOGICA Dermalogica invited beauty media to discover their new product innovations - the Ultra Calming Duo and Sound Sleep Cocoon - and experience the new, highly personalised ProSkin 30 treatment at Primus Hotel, Sydney. Education manager Emma Hobson gave a presentation on the rooftop before media headed to the presidential suite for their treatment.

REFRESHMENTS AND RETINAL UK pharmacologist and founder of cosmeceuticals skincare brand Medik8, Elliot Isaacs, visited Sydney to promote the brand’s latest retinalbased skincare range. The launch was held over high tea at The Palace Tea Room in the QVB.

SICILIAN SOIREE FOR SKINNY TAN Beauty media descended on the Sicilian restaurant Olio in Kensington Street, Chippendale, to celebrate the launch of Roxy Tan by Skinny Tan. Guests enjoyed a three-course meal while haring about the new ultimate dark tanning cream.

MASTER TRAINING AT MESOESTETIC HQ Advanced Cosmeceuticals national trainer Dora Erdossy undertook three days of intensive training at mesoestetic’s head office in Barcelona. She had the chance to catch up with founder Joan Carles Font where they discussed the development, manufacturing and commercialisation of topical medications, medical aesthetic treatments, devices and cosmeceuticals.

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EVENTS

NUSKIN MAKES A SPLASH Nu Skin’s latest skincare innovation, the ageLoc LumiSpa, was launched over a lunch at Andrew Boy Charlton Pool on Valentine’s Day. The device cleanses, removes makeup and promises clean, radiant skin. Beauty media, influencers and TV personalities were treated to a mindfulness session following the lunch.

STRONG LASH GAME Beauty media were introduced to the latest premium designer faux mink lashes from Ardell over breakfast at Chiswick, Woollahra. Beauty guru Michael Brown gave a lash demonstration and talk at the event.

FESTIVAL OF L’ORÉAL L’Oréal Australia premiered their first Beauty for All event at The Grounds of Alexandria. It showcased 23 of their 28 brands across makeup, skincare, fragrance and haircare.

Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Michelle Ruzzene, at mruzzene@intermedia.com.au.

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For all the latest holistic beauty information from around the world.

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Aesthetics Conference Gold Coast 2018 Monday, 28th May

Experience Leading Education with a TWIST! This year APAN’s Conference will deliver a new level of depth in educational content, as well as fun, through the introduction of new interactive activities adding extra value and contributing to ensure you have a memorable experience. THIS ONE-DAY CONFERENCE EVENT WILL FEATURE: • Leading educational topics

• Interactive food and beverage menu

• Staff Recognition Awards

• Interactive themed lunch buffet, with Chef demonstration

• Separate Workshop for Staff presenting “The winning soft-sell strategies”

• Local produce information, food trivia and Take-home recipe cards

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TO REGISTER VISIT WWW.APANCONF.COM OR PHONE 07 55930 360 SPECIAL ACCOMMODATION APAN RATES $110 DELUXE ROOM


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ADVERTISER INDEX

index

Pelactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Front Cover, 14-15 Aesthetic Advanced Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112-113 Absolute Cosmetics Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Advanced Cosmeceuticals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 , 31 Age Delay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 All Saints Cosmedical Clinic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Alpha-H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8–9 APAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Artav Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73, 83 Bio Sculpture Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Biz Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Brandee Meier Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Comfortel Furniture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Curtis Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Cynosure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Derma Aesthetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 DermaEngergy / Clinic Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Dermalogica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26–27 E.S.K. (Evidence Skin Care) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Eternal Health Medical Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Ethix Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Ex-Import Niche Products. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44, 85

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Inskin Cosmedics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Jax Wax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Jessica Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Kitomba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 Lycon Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Mancine Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99, 124 Medispa Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Mind Wellness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Nelson Beauty Business Management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Organic Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Payot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-5 Professional Beauty Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Pure Communications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Sothys Paris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2-3 Syneron Candela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 The Sales Catalyst. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Timely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Tru Lux . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Ultraderm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 USANA Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 USPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41



ultrafilm pomegranate tm

THE WORLD’S THINNEST SPREADING XXX WAX Ultra Film™ from Mancine Cosmetics is the world’s thinnest spreading XXX wax. Mancine Ultra FilmTM is scientifically formulated to give your client exceptional results using the most advanced XXX technology. Blended with the beautiful scent of pomegranate and the soothing properties of Jojoba.

Mancine Cosmetics Pty Ltd P.O. Box 5355 Mordialloc VIC 3195 Ph: 61 3 9580 7274 Toll free: 1 300 135 662 | Fax: 61 3 9580 4711 www.mancinecosmetics.com


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