Professional Beauty September-October 2019 by The Intermedia Group

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SEPâ&#x20AC;¢OCT 2019 INFORMATION. INNOVATION. INSPIRATION.

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The rise of lash and brow queens

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CONTENTS

September/October 2019

Editor’s letter

What’s on PB radar

News

Cover story – The Fresh Face of Thalgo

Viewpoint – The green skincare movement

Skincare

Injestibles

Salon View - Milk

Makeup - Organic/Vegan

New Makeup

The Conscious Consumer

Nails - Nudes

New makeup

Nails - New Products

Style File - Nuggett McCabe

Profile - Sofia Amirova

Talking Point - Tanning

Tanning

Masterclass - Eyebrows and Lashes

Eyebrow Products

The High Brow Game

Salon View - Stephanie’s

100 How to get a business loan 102 Jessica Hart interview 104 How to win at business 118 Interiors - Luna Lash & Body

128

108 Waxing 112 Career How I Got Here

- Tina Copland 114 Technology 118 Wellness - Olivia Newton John 120 Industry Insider - Joanne Healy 122 Spring Skin 124 Salon View - Renaissance

Hair & Beauty

22 118

126 Beauty Expo

128 Beauty Escape - Gaia Retreat & Spa 132 Last Word - Lord Gavin

McLeod Valentine

ON THE COVER

Thalgo has undergone something of a renaissance in the last few years with a repositioning in the market and realignment to the core brand values. We chat to the Thalgo team to talk about what’s new on page 20.

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PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA BHA MEDIA PUBLISHER + COMMERCIAL MANAGER Glenn Silburn EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Michelle Ruzzene mruzzene@intermedia.com.au ONLINE AND NEWS EDITOR Jenny Berich jberich@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic ACTING CIRCULATIONS MANAGER Troy Brookes subscriptions@intermedia.com.au

EDITOR’S LETTER

WELCOME TO OUR latest issue – it’s been a busy couple of months at PB Headquarters with beauty events galore and of course the much anticipated annual Beauty Expos in both Brisbane and recently Sydney. The main takeaway highlights from both shows reveal that brows and lashes are two of the most prominent trends both here in Australia and internationally, which has seen many emerging brow artists launching their own salons. Industry insiders say the trend can be attributed to social media posts and influencers including the Kardashians and models such as Cara Delevingne. This edition we chat to some of the biggest brow and lash queens in the business about their training and what is behind the trend. Check out our story on page 86. We also feature a glamorous lash masterclass in this issue to highlight the latest trends by Ex-Imports – headed up by the ever-knowledgeable Otto Mitter who has spent more than 25 years in the industry. See page 78. The use of hemp derived CBD in skincare is slated as the new anti-ageing trend on the radar – we reveal the latest research findings and what it means for the industry here in Australia. Turn to page 22. With the arrival of spring the focus turns to the hot summer months ahead and of course what better time for salons to amp up their tanning offering? There are plenty of tanning formulation innovations on the market and we chat to leaders about the latest way to get a faux glow on page 9. Clean beauty continues to be big business with consumers, who are now more than ever, aware of what goes into products – the movement has plenty of new innovations. We chat to Aussie model and former Victoria’s Secret muse Jessica Hart who has been experiencing popularity with her paraben free makeup line Luma. See our story on page 102. Another Australian enjoying success with her own skincare line is Olivia Newton John, who also set up the stunning tranquil award winning Gaia Retreat & Spa in Queensland. We chat to the actress and entrepreneur about her wellness range Retreatment Botanics on page 118. As always in every edition we bring you the latest makeup and product trends along with all the news from salon owners and suppliers – enjoy reading what’s trending this season. Until next time. FOLLOW US:

Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943 41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN

CONTRIB UTOR S Trudi Jaye

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Lisa Conway

Business coach and author Lisa Conway reveals to readers what makes a successful salon owner on (page 104). “Business is definitely a game for grown-ups. If you weren’t a grown-up when you bought or set up your salon you soon will be.”

Wellness is an ever evolving landscape and this edition Trudi Jaye, General Manager and Brand Developer of Retreatment Botanics – the skincare range created by Olivia Newton-John reveals her passion for the industry on (page 131). “I have long lived by the mantra ‘Beauty from the inside out’. Wellness and skin health are deeply connected and it’s such an exciting area to work in.”

Gina Brooke

Madonna’s makeup artist and the woman behind the most expensive lashes in the world, Gina Brooke chats to PB about the rise of bold brows and lashes. “The trends at the moment are exaggerated lashes which I love. I think it’s whimsical, theatrical and an outlandish way of expressing oneself artistically.” (page 88).

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

PB RADAR

On our RADAR

THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON

VEGAN WONDER

Internet users have voted for their favourite cosmetic brands, using Ranker.com, to reveal the top 20 most popular vegan brands. The most popular vegan cosmetic brand is Elf, with their animal-free, humbly priced products, followed by Urban Decay, renowned for the Naked eyeshadow palette. Vegan brush and makeup tool supplier EcoTools claimed third place.

WORKPLACE INNOVATION

Four big name beauty companies were named in Fast Company‘s inaugural list of Top 50 Best Workplaces for Innovators. Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, P&G and Sephora were all featured on the list, which honours businesses that demonstrate a commitment to innovation.

NAIL EXTRAORDINAIRE We’re obsessed with instagram.com/mannequin. hands’ stunning nail creations. From Louis Vuitton French tips to aquarium nails and super cute sneaker matches to political slogans, her signature artworks never cease to amaze.

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Professional Beauty will be heading to Taipei on September 19-21 to check out the latest beauty innovations coming out of Taiwan. This year’s focus will be on OEM (original equipment manufacturer) and ODM (original design manufacturer), gadgets, trends including designer brands, clean beauty and men’s skincare, international pavilions and start-up beauty brands. Look out for our wrap in the Nov/Dec issue.

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NEWS

CANDELA TEAMS UP WITH SOPHIE CACHIA Candela has appointed social media influencer Sophie Cachia as the new brand ambassador for its Gentle Series. Sophie Cachia is a Melbourne-based blogger, mum and business owner with over 247,000 Instagram followers and 144,000 Facebook followers. Based in Melbourne, she is “best known for her no holds barred approach, sharing honest stories about her life and the realities of parenting”. Candela Australia marketing manager Mike Reid said that the company had appointed Sophie as she has regular laser hair removal treatments with the Gentle Series due to excessive hair growth caused by PCOS (polycystic ovaries syndrome). “We have formed a partnership with her to discuss her PCOS journey in the digital space to bring greater awareness to possible treatment options,” he said. Sophie’s first Instagram post for the Gentle Series received over 11,000 likes and over 300 comments. “The comments were mainly from other women with PCOS talking about their experience with excessive hair growth – and there was lots of positivity towards Sophie for being so open about it.”

ULTRACEUTICALS MOVES INTO EUROPE Ultraceuticals has secured a distribution agreement with one of Ireland’s leading skincare distributors, Renaissance Products, in a move that will see it enter the European market for the first time. Announcing the signing of the distribution deal, Ultraceuticals CEO Karen Wilkin-Donachie said the company was proud to have Renaissance help launch the brand into “the very high-quality skincare market”. “The Irish market, whilst smaller in size, is very well known for its high-calibre beauty therapists and very strong attention to their skin within this market,” she said. “We also feel we’re going to learn a lot in Ireland that will certainly assist with our growth plans throughout the rest of Europe in the future.” Renaissance’s general manager Michael Evans said the company (which also distributes Yon-ka Paris and Image Skincare) believes that Irish skincare professionals and their clients will be impressed with the brand’s products and treatments” . Pictured below: Ultraceuticals founder Dr Geoffrey Heber and CEO Karen Wilkin-Donachie with Renaissance Products GM Michael Evans and Ultraceuticals BDM Helene Floury.

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BEAUTY PRODUCTS SEND KIDS TO HOSPITAL A child is poisoned or burned by beauty products approximately every two hours in the US. According to research by the Nationwide Children’s Hospital Center for Injury Research and Policy, 64,686 children younger than five were treated in US emergency departments for injuries related to personal care products from 2002 to 2016 – about one child every two hours – and the figure is unlikely to have decreased since. The study found that the top three product categories leading to injuries were nail care (28.3 percent), hair care (27 percent), and skincare (25 percent) followed by fragrance (12.7 percent). Nail polish remover was the individual product that led to the most number of visits to emergency (17.3 percent of all injuries) while more than half of the more serious injuries that required hospitalisation were caused by hair care products (52.4 percent). Most injuries occurred when a child swallowed the product (75.7 percent) or the product made contact with a child’s skin or eyes (19.3 percent). These ingestions and exposures most often led to poisonings (86.2 percent) or chemical burns (13.8 percent). Study co-author Rebecca McAdams said adults can help avoid such injuries occur if they “think about what young children see when they look at these products”.

NEWS NEUTROGENA CASTS SHADOW OVER LED HOMECARE DEVICES Neutrogena’s recall of its popular Visibly Clear Light Therapy Acne Mask and Activator is likely to raise consumer concerns about the safety of LED beauty devices around the world. In Australia, Neutrogena’s parent company, Johnson & Johnson Pacific, recalled the device, and withdrew it from the market, in conjunction with the Therapeutic Goods Association. According to the TGA, the device was recalled because: “It has been identified that, for a small subset of potentially susceptible people (including people with certain eye-related disorders e.g. retinitis pigmentosa, ocular albinism, other congenital retinal disorders), repeated exposure may cause varying degrees of retinal damage that could be irreversible and could accelerate peripheral vision impairment or loss”. “[In addition] other potential adverse events that may be associated with use of this device are eye pain, eye discomfort, eye irritation, tearing, blinding, blurring of vision, seeing spots/flashes and other changes in vision (for example vision colour).” In its statement announcing the recall, Neutrogena stressed that the recall is being undertaken “as a precautionary measure”. “As part of our quality and safety commitment, we routinely monitor our products and review the latest science,” the company said. “Following reports of generally mild, rare and transient visual adverse events, combined with a growing scientific discussion around the safety of blue light, we further evaluated the potential effects of the Mask on the eye. “It has been identified that there is a theoretical risk of eye injury for a small subset of the population with certain underlying eye conditions, as well as for users taking medications which could enhance the eye’s sensitivity to light. We have not received any reports of eye injury in this small subset of individuals with the underlying eye conditions.”

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ENDOTA SPA FRANCHISEE BACK-PAYS STAFF An Endota Spa franchisee who operates six of the company’s Sydney day spas had to backpay $65,939.87 to 13 employees after making illegal deductions from their salary and underpaying penalty rates and annual leave entitlements. The Fair Work Ombudsman (FWO) investigated Sea One North Pty Ltd, trading as Endota Spa Sydney, after it received requests for assistance from two skilled 457 visa holders, who alleged the company was making deductions from their pay to cover visa-related costs. Fair Work inspectors found that the company made unlawful deductions totalling $58,025 from the pay of thirteen 457 visa workers from countries including Poland, Ireland, Britain and Japan between May 2014 and February 2018. Endota Spa Sydney and Sea One North director Chris Barbour deducted $250 per fortnight from the workers’ pay until the cost (up to $7000) of each workers’ visa sponsorship had been reached. The FWO also failed to pay workers $7,914.87 in penalty rates and annual leave entitlements. According to the FWO, the company has back-paid all workers in full for the unlawful deductions and underpayments, and has co-operated fully with FWO throughout the investigation process.

LADY ROCKS THE HAUS WITH MAKEUP LAUNCH Lady Gaga is following in the stiletto-heeled footsteps of Kylie Jenner and Rihanna with the launch of her own beauty brand. The 33-year-old super star launched the brand, Haus Labs, in a campaign video on her social media platforms before its official website launch.. The launch range is made up of Le Riot Lip Gloss, RIP Lip Liner and Glam Attack Liquid Shimmer Powder (each available in six colours). Apart on the Haus Labs website and on Amazon.com, the products will be sold in sets of two or three with prices starting at US$40 for two lip glosses Gaga told ‘Business of Fashion’ that Amazon was extremely receptive to her vision for the brand. “There are some companies that see me, what I stand for and the way that I view the world, and if it’s not perfectly in line with what they do and they’re worried about alienating customers… they’ll be like, ‘Can you just change half of the equation?’, which for me, is the entire equation, so that we can ‘do a deal’. “The answer is ‘no’. No deal. No message of self-acceptance, no deal. This [deal with Amazon] was so wonderful because this was like, ‘Let’s make a deal, let’s make a deal to change the world with their beauty.”

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NEWS PRINT YOUR OWN MAKEUP? If you struggle to find the right coloured eyeshadow, blush or brow powder you will be pleased to know that you can now print your own using “16.7 million colours” thanks to the launch of the world’s first 3D makeup printer. Weighing just under 1kg, the Mink enables users to transform any digital images into wearable makeup in less than 30 seconds. Users simply open the Mink app and import an image from the internet, camera roll or social media. After choosing whether to print the whole image or a single colour within it, users then insert a Mink makeup sheet into the tray and press ‘send to print’. Fifteen seconds later the printing is complete and the makeup, created “in accordance with the FDA rules for cosmetics”, is ready to wear. Mink president and co-founder Janet Kim says that the new printer meets the demands of today’s consumers who “have higher expectations on how and where the products they consume fit into their lifestyle”. “Mink understands the shifting landscape for ondemand and flexibility, and beauty is no exception,” she said. “We are excited to provide a new distribution platform for beauty as well as connecting to the different consumer touchpoints across physical, web and social. “Finally bridging images that inspire beauty and transforming them into makeup in a snap.”

HERE COME THE BOYS British makeup brand, W7 Cosmetics, has jlaunched a ground breaking makeup campaign featuring eight men and two boys wearing makeup. Launched in a bid to celebrate diversity and inclusiveness, the campaign stars Salih’s World, Toby Salvietto, Danny de Freitas, Way of Yaw, Whatstheteakeekee, Marc Zapanta, Don’t mess with Denise and Harley Jeal as well as 14-year-old Reuben de and 16-year-old Jamie Kyle. In total, the influencers have more than 1.5 million social media followers. Owned by Warpaint London, W7 is “an extremely creative, designfocused” cosmetic brand primarily targeted at 16-30 year-olds. The W7 brand has grown organically since its inception in 2002 and now contains over 500 items (including foundations, lipsticks, eyeshadows, nail polish and the Ebony Collection for darker skin tones) which are sold into high street retailers and independent beauty beauty shops across the UK, Europe, Australia and the US. Sam Bazani, the owner of W7 Cosmetics, said the brand has “always been an advocate for setting trends and providing quality cosmetics for anyone to express themselves creatively”. “We are incredibly excited to be working with these inspiring young men who are breaking boundaries in the beauty industry,” he said. ‘The ‘Here Come the Boys’ campaign is about so much more than just makeup, it fully represents our brand ethos of self-expression, with affordable products for both men and women,’ he said.

OZ BROW ARTIST TAKES ON THE WORLD Australian brow artist Suzie McIntosh recently co-hosted a master class for over 50 brow artists in .Los Angeles. Suzie, who owns Suzie McIntosh Brows salons in Melbourne and Sydney, said the masterclass attracted brow artists “from all over the world including Sweden, the UK, Europe and even Australia”. After successfully running her salon Melbourne salon for four years, Suzie started her training academy in 2017. “When I first started my training academy, Kristin Fisher [owner Kristin Fisher Brows salon in Sydney] asked me to fly to Sydney to train her and all of her staff,” she said. “Afterwards she posted how happy she was with my training on Instagram, and before I knew it well-known salons from all around Australia wanted me to fly and train their staff too – and my entire year was booked out!” Suzie then held her first international master class in Canada last year with just six students in attendance. Since then the business (and Suzie’s reputation) has grown significantly with the students at her Los Angeles masterclass, her fourth international class, paying US$3200 each to attend.

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NEWS EMSCULPT RESHAPES BODY SCULPTING MARKET Less than six months after launching Emsculpt, a nonsurgical treatment for muscle building and fat burning, in Australia, BTL Aesthetics is reporting great success at a dozen clinics around the country. BTL sales director Gareth Pepper says the treatment’s local popularity follows its success in the US and Europe where it has been used by numerous celebrities including Drew Barrymore (the brand’s US ambassador), Kim Kardashian and Rebel Wilson as well as Victoria’s Secret models and “some of the world’s elite athletes”. “Due to strict non-disclosure agreements, we are not allowed to mention names of the teams and sports personalities using Emsculpt but what we can say is that Emsculpt is used by several top premier soccer teams in the UK, the Brazilian soccer team, and several major NBL, NFL and ice hockey teams.” Pepper says the Emsculpt is the first and only non-invasive treatment to go beyond the elimination of fat cells to strengthen and define muscles, with no surgery and no downtime. Approved for use on the abdomen and buttocks in Australia, the device, which has recently also been approved for use on the arms and legs in the US and Europe. uses patented magnetic field energy to “induce approximately 20,000 supramaximal muscle contractions”. Pepper says the contractions, which cannot be achieved voluntarily, are similar to “20,000 sit-ups or squats”. He says the Emsculpt has delivered consistent results (including a 19 percent reduction in subcutaneous abdominal fat and a 16 percent increase in muscle mass) in 15 independent clinical studies.

TOWNSVILLE SALON WINS DERMALUX SYSTEM The owner of a Townsville salon destroyed by fire last year has won a Dermalux LED Tri-Wave system. Anna Preston, the sole owner/operator of Anna’s Skin & Beauty, was devastated when her salon was destroyed by fire just 14 months after its launch, but she didn’t stay down for long – she re-opened at a new location just four weeks later. “My drive and determination were stronger than the devastation I was feeling,” she said. And it was that drive and determination that helped impress the judges at Professional Beauty Solutions’ 2019 Skin Summit in Sydney. PBS, the distributor of Dermalux in Australia, gave all attendees the chance to win the LED Tri-Wave system in a competition by explaining “in 100 words or less why they’d love to win a Dermalux Tri-Wave unit for their salon”.

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SK-11 INTRODUCES FAKE FACE After years of appointing some of the world’s most beautiful women as the ‘faces’ of its brand, SK-II has created its own flawless digital woman as it’s new ‘face’. Created in partnership with SoulMachines, a company aiming “to humanise artificial intelligence”, ‘Yumi’ is set to play a key role in helping SK-II “connect with a new generation of consumers who are yearning for more meaningful experiences with the brands they know and trust”. SK-II CEO Sandeep Seth said the brand is looking forward to having Yumi, “the world’s first fully autonomous digital influencer”, engage with consumers 24 hours a day. “Yum is more than a digital influencer,” he said. “She is a digital human capable of interacting and engaging in ways technology hasn’t been able to do until now. “Yumi personifies our goal to combine technology and creativity to benefit customers. “She provides the warmth and connection of human touch in the form of a digital experience to make the overall skincare experience at home and in store more enjoyable and compelling. “We’re looking forward to customers being able to turn to her for skincare and beauty questions at any time of the day or night.” Soul Machines co-founder Greg Cross said the company was thrilled to work with innovative companies and brands like SK-II “who are embracing technology to humanise brands at scale”. “Yumi really is a digital influencer with a difference,” he said. “She engages and responds as a human would. “She won’t know everything but will know what to do when she doesn’t. “She represents a new way for brands to be more human in engaging humans in a highly scalable way.”

COVER STORY

The fresh face of

THALGO

Thalgo has undergone something of a renaissance in the last few years with a repositioning in the market and a realignment to the core brand values. Anita Quade caught up with the Thalgo Australia team to talk about what’s new. Thalgo has stood the test of time in the Australian market – tell us how? “We bleed Thalgo aqua-blue in Australia and so do our loyal clients who have stood by us over the many years. We’re really privileged to share these partnerships and like all women through different life stages, we’ve had our ups and downs. Thalgo is now 55, and it’s an empowering, refreshing time as we reveal a brand new face.”

A new look, that sounds exciting. What’s happening? “A completely new look for Thalgo – logo, visuals, packaging and new products. We’re still retaining all our heritage hallmarks and identity. It’s about feeling in tune with who we are, and knowing ourselves as a brand. We’re confident but haven’t lost our pioneering spirit and we’re ready for our next stage with a complete rebranding and the first of three major innovations over the next 18 months – new Peeling Marin.”

Thalgo has a fascinating history, where did it all start? “The story is steeped in years of history, but the inspiration starts in 1865 when the word thalassotherapy was first recognised. 100 years later in 1964, a Doctor of Pharmacy – André Bouclet – created Thalgo. The name Thalgo is a combination of the words ‘thalasso’ and ‘algae’, so they literally make up the DNA of Thalgo. Bouclet’s quest to harness the power of the ocean has been at the heart of Thalgo ever since.”

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What role does transdermal mineral absorption play in the Thalgo philosophy? “Thalassotherapy centres are huge in Europe and the first one opened in 1899. The concept inspired a 1976 study that proved the efficacy of the transdermal application of marine ions and their penetration of the skin barrier in 15 minutes. The assimilation of these ions at a deep, cellular level and their biosimilarity to human tissue has, and always will be the fundamental philosophy of Thalgo product formulations and treatment experiences.”

COVER STORY

When did the patented Micronised Marine Algae MMA come into the picture? “Bouclet was commissioned by the medical community to research into rheumatic, circulatory and advanced skin disorders and he found a willing and abundant subject in algae. And so Micronised Marine Algae (MMA) was born and received a medical patent in 1966. Our famed Plasmalg is the only product still remaining of the original format which included a toothpaste (long since discontinued) and dietary supplement. The ethos of insideout wellness was ahead of it’s time back then, and it continues today with some really exciting launches coming in 2019, 2020 and 2021.”

And there is a new generation of MMA through bio-fermentation. What’s the difference? “The R&D and biotechnical teams at Thalgo have been working for some time on a new development of MMA which undergoes a bio-fermentation process. This releases high concentrations of Lactic Acid, marine micronutrients and protective polyphenols. This is combined with Glycolic and Gluconic Acid and is applied to the skin, for an effective yet non-invasive peel. Importantly the fermentation process does not use any chemical solvents – a real point of difference for Thalgo.”

Bio-fermented MMA is the hero in the new range, Peeling Marin. Tells us more about it. “Yes, Peelin Marin is another first for Thalgo as it’s the first marine cosmeceutical and the bio-fermented algae is such a unique process. There are three grades of treatments which are designed as a progressive plan to build up to the application of a 45% combined acid concentration.”

What have been the results so far? “Clinical studies were conducted under dermatological supervision across three separate statistically significant groups, divided according to age and severity of skin conditions. Instrumental evaluations using silicone imprints show a -10.2 reading on wrinkle depth, and self-perception efficacy evaluations showed 96% of participants demonstrating a “new skin” effect.”

When will the range be available and what training will Thalgo be doing? “Peeling Marin is available for pre-launch in Australia from 1st September and we’re really excited to be hosting the Thalgo Global Education Team in Australia and New Zealand in late October for a series of training courses in Perth, Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Auckland.”

What’s next in the NPD pipeline? “There are some very exciting innovations coming in 2020 and beyond. A new detoxifying range combining an algae complex and mineral salts, and a very innovative anti-ageing range designed to treat visible signs of ageing by harnessing the unique combination of two powerhouse ingredients with new marine sources. Stay tuned for more.”

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Lastly, who is the behind the Thalgo brand and where can you experience Thalgo around the world? “Thalgo is a privately owned company by the Sirop family with a long-standing partnership in Australia and is distributed exclusively by BLC Cosmetics. If you’re in London soon, Beyond Medispa at Harvey Nichols in London has just launched with Thalgo, and the Thalgo heart beats around the world at some amazing destination properties including Villa Thalgo in Paris and hotels like Sofitel, Park Hyatt, The Westin and Sheraton. At home here in Australia we have our very own Villa Thalgo as well as great partnerships with Stephanies Luxury Spas, Ballarat’s Sanctuary and Chateau Elan.” n *Retail products recommended for use as a 21-day course during peels. Thalgo is exclusively distributed in Australia by BLC Cosmetics www.thalgo.com.au | +61 2 8667 4695 customerservice@blccosmetics.com

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

VIEWPOINT

GOING GREEN

As the benefits of hemp derived CBD in skincare forges ahead Anita Quade chats to Dr Adele Hosseini from ASX-listed medicinal cannabis company Bod Australia about the latest research findings.

THE MEDICINAL BENEFITS of cannabis have long been heralded around the globe – but more and more companies are looking to release CBD products to guard against the skin ageing process. At the forefront of research is Bod Australia, who has recently released its three-year research partnership with the University of Technology Sydney (UTS) to look at the potential to include the non-psychoactive chemical compound of cannabis into anti-ageing skincare. Dr Adele Hosseini, Chief Scientific Officer at Bod Australia chats about the findings.

Tell us why you began the research in the beauty area with the UTS three years ago?

use of CBD in skin care products in Australia. This could change in future and Australia follow other countries where the use of CBD is allowed in skincare.”

What were the major findings that reveal cannabis can help in anti-ageing?

Bod will hold the global rights to the topical delivery system – what will this mean?

“The anti-oxidant properties of CBD which can help lessen the visible signs of ageing skin is already well known and was not the finding of this research project. The discovery of the new family of proteins, which was achieved in this research, could potentially be incorporated into topical skin products with conjunction of CBD. These proteins could also act as a new delivery method for CBD and other cannabis compounds.”

“These findings will allow Bod the potential to develop a patent protected application and topical delivery system. It means Bod has the potential to commercialise and/or license this system to other companies.”

“In Australia the Federal Government has legalised the cultivation of cannabis for medical or scientific purposes but the current regulation inhibits the

• Bod, and UTS, following a three-year research collaboration discover a novel family of proteins in human cells that provide antioxidant protective effects when applied to skin cells • The proteins can serve as a novel delivery method and be utilised with CBD extracts – Bod exploring optionality to incorporate across its cannabis product suite • These proteins have shown to protect cells against oxidative damage and help increase UV tolerance • Bod and UTS are currently exploring opportunities to utilise proteins in topical applications • This allows significant optionality across all business divisions – Bod can potentially licence the product to large scale pharmaceutical companies • The global anti-ageing market was worth US$42.5 billion in 2018 and is estimated to grow to US$55.03 billion by 2023

“We are an innovative company and continuously looking for new ways to bring innovation into our products. We value the collaboration with reputable research institutes and universities and we choose them based on their expertise in their field. UTS, in particular, has a leading reputation in technology and also has a number of expert scientists. We saw an opportunity in this area and we took the chance.”

What are the current Australian laws when it comes to including cannabis in skincare?

RESEARCH HIGHLIGHTS AT A GLANCE:

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How are other countries leading the way with using CBD in skincare? “The use of cannabis is not legal in skincare however CBD, the nonpsychoactive compound derived from the cannabis plant has become legal in over 20 countries including Canada and the US.”

How are you planning to forge ahead with developments? “We are moving into the second phase of the collaboration with UTS and we also have a number of other research opportunities in process that will deliver a range of new product options in skincare, health and beauty.”

What type of beauty formulations would you be looking to include this in? “This has yet to be determined but there are a number of opportunities with anti-ageing and UV protection – delivered in novel, evidence based combinations.“ n Dr Adele Hosseini

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SMOOTH AS MILLK Millk was established 15 years ago by three men: Simon Barnes, Anthony Savva and Peter Laburn. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with director and manager Simon to find out how they overcame gender norms to run a thriving beauty business.

Tell us about Millk ? “We first started the business as a boutique spa and beauty salon which focused on treatments for both men and women in an equal fashion. It was initially quite spa focused and over the years we have evolved into a medi spa. It was originally only the three of us working in the business, all males, which was unusual and novel for the time. We opened a second location in Brisbane in 2008 where Anthony now lives. This is now his successful business and was rebranded as Archon Spas in 2016.”

Tell us about the design? “From the beginning we have tried to create a neutral space. A balance of masculine and feminine. Original dark wood polished floor boards in a 19th century building, raw timber product shelves, metallic tiles in the treatment rooms, warm dark brown ceramic tiles in reception. Soft lighting and subtle large canvas art work of muted tones in various areas of the spa. An elegant large arch window allows sunlight to stream into the waiting area during the day. It’s a welcoming environment to walk into. We definitely wanted to steer away from the stark clinical look/feel. I think people relax more before their treatments in these surroundings, which helps to moderate services that are not comfortable.”

Who is your typical clientele? “Our typical clientele is people from all walks of life, in their late 20’s through to 50’s. With an almost equal balance of men

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and women, exactly what we were aiming for. Mostly people with a reasonable to good income. Our treatments are not at the expensive end, but certainly not budget either.”

Tell us about your focus on men? “Initially in 2004 we saw the market for men’s beauty on the rise. At that time a handful of salons/clinics appeared to try and cater for men, not just gay men but men in general. We were one of those few. It was a new opportunity. Some tried to focus just on men and most probably found that Sydney wasn’t quite big enough for that at that time. We didn’t want to create just a men’s only environment. Men had been excluded with the previous model of the beauty salon with reinforced feminine surroundings almost hostile to the male visitor, especially when it came to male Brazilian waxing! Therefore, we didn’t want to do the same thing

We also stock Palm Beach candles, V76 men’s skin care, and Tuscan Tan retail products.”

What are the most popular treatments?

Tell us about your relationship with Cryomed?

“We have performed a lot of laser treatments in the last few years. Laser hair reduction is substantial for us given the amount of men visiting the spa. Laser facial treatments are also becoming more and more popular. Men’s waxing has always been our specialty, we even have interstate clients for this. I think we coined the phrase ‘Manzilian’ many years ago, so without doubt this is also very popular alongside the laser version. Our male client’s soon realise we know what we are doing when it comes to these treatments and often regale with stories of experiences they have had elsewhere.”

“We have a great relationship with Cryomed. Most of the equipment I have now I have purchased through them. Josh has great ability when it comes to sourcing quality machines at an affordable cost for the end user. I trust their recommendations as I have found them to be focused on looking after the customer and making sure they are happy with what they have purchased. Most importantly, I feel Josh is dedicated to supplying equipment that actually works and delivers results. Since our inception in 2004, I have had many companies approach me trying to sell equipment that was just not legitimate. Prompt help from your

What are your latest treatments? “We offer a very broad range of services that cater to a wide demographic, which are competitively priced alongside consistent good service. We now have Dr Zac Turner performing anti-aging procedures at Millk; Zac appears regularly on Channel 9’s Today Extra. In the last couple of years we have added current treatments such as HIFU skin tightening, genesis laser and Cryolipolysis. Millk is unique, there isn’t another clinic quite like us in Sydney.”

What are some of the challenges faced by your medi spa? “Other than the normal challenges any business experiences every day, finding good staff is probably one of the substantial challenges we deal with. We have a great team at present; however in the past if and when we do find someone new, they usually require a lot of training to get to the standard we require. Especially in waxing and laser therapies. The fact that we do so many treatments for men does put some women off working with us. This could be due in part to the training they receive which may have little focus on men. The freshly qualified graduates from many of the beauty colleges still require a lot of training and years of work experience; which can be a big drain on the business. I had an apprentice at one stage, by the end of her four year apprenticeship with us she was a very competent therapist.”

List all the retail brands you stock? “Our retail brands are quite minimal now, compared to the past. Ahava, Christina and Clineral have been product lines that we had for many years. They are well priced and suit a wide range of skin types. We introduced our own private label cosmeceutical range a few years ago called Actives, this is the only range of its type we keep now. We use this both in professional as well as retail. Having our own line of products keeps our clientele loyal.

supplier is crucial if you are running a number of machines; we get that support from them.”

How has technology influenced Millk? “The short answer to this is; big time! Taking on some of the new developments in technology has been a game changer for us. However it’s important to be cautious in regard to what actually works and what might appear to work when it comes to new modalities. I like to do my research and observe for a while first. Not being a therapist makes me a little more sceptical and I tend to not get caught up in all the hype with some of the beauty trends that have come and gone in the past 20 years.”

What are your future plans? “The business is growing, we are moving away from spa treatments and looking to take on more therapies that make significant changes for the client. Another clinic may be on the horizon, but only if we can give it the same level of attention that this one receives.” n Millk Level 1/177 Oxford St , Darlinghurst www.millk.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 41

SALON VIEW

in reverse, we didn’t want to create a space that excluded women to the same degree. Millk is and was for everyone.”

Green

BEAUTY

Clean up your cosmetics bag with these natural, organic and vegan makeup brands

Artdeco No Color Setting Powder Artdeco 1300 552 924 asap Pure Skin Perfecting Mineral Foundation in Pure Two asap Skin Products 03 8683 3333 Bite Beauty Longwear Lip Stain in Sangria Slush Kendo Brands 02 9295 9000 Dermaviduals Rouge in Light Rose Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300 Doctor Eckstein Azulene Clear Balancing Powder Eckstein Australia Real Skin Care 1800 026 306 Fitcover Lash Mass Kit Fitcover info@fitcover.com Kylie’s Professional Mineral Goddess Cream Foundation in Angel Kylie’s Professional 07 5576 4599 La Mav Organic BB Crème La Mav 1300 052 628 Li’tya Rose Geranium Facial Oil Li’Tya 03 9587 7088 Lycogel Breathable Camouflage in Beige Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Nee Mr Strobe Masters Beauty International 1300 470 648 Nude by Nature Creamy Matte Lipstick in Roseberry Nude by Nature 1300 366 147 Pelactiv Loose Mineral Powder in Mink Pelactiv 02 8422 5000 Vayda Organics Blemish Relief Vayda Organics hello@vaydaorganics.com Victoria Curtis Matte Perfection Mineral Foundation in Vanilla Curtis Collection 03 9421 5577 W Pro Selfie Glo Universal Highlighter in Dusk til Dawn Williamspro contact@williamspromakeup.com

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MAKEUP

Colorscience Beauty on the Go Palette Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Danessa Myricks Beauty Illuminating Veil Scotty’s Makeup 02 9518 9000 Dermaviduals Cover & Conceal Dermaviduals 02 9960 1300 Eco by Sonya Driver Glory Oil Eco by Sonya Driver 1300 596 118 Inika Baked Mineral Bronzer Sunkissed Total Beauty Network 03 8544 8000 Jane Iredale Refillable Compact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 Kat Von D Lock It Setting Powder Kat Von D 02 8880 9446 L’occitane Delicious Tinted Balm in Pink Calisson L’occitane 02 89123000 Nouveau Lashes Enhance Mascara Bio Beauty Concepts 1300 246 435 O Cosmedics Natural Fusion Treatment Foundation in Suede Inskin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188 Raww Loose Mineral Powder in Nude Total Beauty Network 03 8544 8000 Salt by Hendrix Lip Butter Salt by Hendrix 02 8068 9463 SOSU by Suzanne Jackson The Ultimate Trio SOSU customerservice@sosubysj.com Youngblood Liquid Mineral Foundation Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Zuii Certified Organic Flora Sheerlips Lipstick in Mish Zuii Organic 07 5596 2319 PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 45

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The Conscious

CONSUMER

Clean Beauty is big business with clients looking for products that respect the environment and produce top notch results. Emma Hobson takes a look at the rise of conscious buying.

MANY COMPANIES ARE realising the importance to the consumer regarding the impact the product has on the environment and the skin. Conscious consumers are the catalysts for change. The greater the emphasis and demand to have products that respect the environment and the skin the quicker and more obvious the changes made by manufacturers. With organic farming now on the rise, the understanding of farmers how to grow sustainable crops with good yields it increases the availability and reduces the pricing for the manufacturers which means making these ingredients more accessible to all.

What does Clean Beauty mean? Some say it’s a product free of synthetic ingredients, others free of known toxins and others that it’s plant derived. As yet no one has really come to a consensus as to an agreed definition, it seems to be very subjective and is really only defined by marketing teams that created the term or trend initially versus the regulatory governing bodies themselves, case in point there is still no clear agreed definition with

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reference to organic or natural, this therefore leaves a lot for interpretation by each manufacturer. Suffice to say clean skin care is about the preservation and respect for skin health be that with plant derived or perfectly safe synthetic ingredients, Global sustainability and the impact a product has on our environment as well as ethical choices of some consumers such as the demand for ‘vegan clean skin care’.

Respecting the skin Dermalogica has since the very first day of its conception had a clear stance on it being a skin care product that respects skin health, we were as famous for what we left out as we much as what we put in our formulations. We were the first professional skincare company to omit artificial fragrance, artificial colours, S.D. alcohol, mineral oil, lanolin, comedogenic ingredients and commit to not testing on animals. To this day we still stand by these commitments to clean skincare, additionally, we are 99% Vegan-friendly. Our formulations are paraben free and crafted heavily with plant-based ingredients sourced from various environmentally sustainable sources.

Clean Skin Care goes hand in hand with the packaging of the product with regard to the source of materials it is made from and how it can be disposed of or recycled. For example, Dermalogica complies with the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) for any packaging derived from wood, which means it is sourced from FSC certified forests or from postconsumer waste. So how do you choose or decide if the product you use is ‘Clean’? This really is for you to decide what is important to you and your customers and if the product falls in line with your knowledge as well as personal ethics. The basic consensus seems to be that the product should be free of any known skin irritants or have a negative effect on the skin health such as artificial fragrance and colours, Mineral Oil and its derivatives, S.D. Alcohol, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, phthalates and parabens and ingredients that are known to be comedogenic.

Skincare education

From an informed place you can study the full ingredient listing of your products and then decide if you feel it fits with your perception of what is clean skin care. This will also be influenced by your clients preference, be that they want organic (bearing in mind this has the same issues as Clean Skin Care when it comes to a clear definition and no actual regulatory body that stipulates what this actually means), Vegan, perhaps they want products with sustainably sourced ingredients, or products that encourage skin health but also contain highly active ingredients such as peptides which are derived synthetically but have no known toxicity, just outstanding results. When it comes right down to it the crunch question is “Do you feel absolutely confident that the product you use and recommend on your client’s skin is free of widely known skin irritants, is completely SAFE and promotes positive skin health?” If the answer is yes, then you should feel confident in believing you are part of the ‘Clean Skin Movement’. n

That’s why it’s so important to keep yourself educated in the field of skin care ingredients, that does not mean believing everything you read on the internet sites that scare monger about certain ingredients that have no scientific evidence to substantiate the negative and inflammatory comments.

Emma Hobson is the Director of Education Asia Pacific Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute. www.dermalogica.com.au

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Visit us at candelamedical.com.au or call 1300 (CANDELA) 226 335

Gentle Series Ambassador, Sophie Cachia reveals how Gentle treatments have helped her laser hair removal journey. We are very excited to announce Sophie Cachia as our new Brand Ambassador of the Gentle Series. Sophie Cachia is a blogger, mum and business owner with a massive social media following. Based in Melbourne, she is best known for her no holds barred approach, sharing honest stories about her life and the realities of parenting. Sophie has regular laser hair removal treatments. It was at about 8 years old the kids in class started to tease me about my moustache. It was in Grade 6 when I’d cross my legs tightly at lunch time because they were the only hairy ones. It was Year 7 at our swimming sports when one boy asked me ‘Ew! Why do you have a snail trail?’. It was Year 9 when I vowed to wear my woollen school jumper in class all through a hot summer to hide the thickness on my arms. It was in my late teens when I needed a brazillian wax every three weeks. It was in my first pregnancy when my one friend on my chin turned into a coarse beard. Being a young girl and growing up ‘hairy’ certainly wasn’t cool. I grew up with three older sisters... why weren’t their bodies hairy like mine? Whenever people have asked me if I like winter or summer better, I’ve always said winter. Not because I don’t actually enjoy warmer weather, holidays and heading to the beach - but it was the idea of all of these things combined with how I’d have to maintain my hair growth in order to enjoy those times! Waxing sucks. We all know it hurts. I don’t care what you say as someone who still grimaces when she gets her eyebrows done once a month - full body waxing was not only traumatic for me, but also not really a solution. Quick fix? Yes. But was it making me hairier? Yes! I was advised to start waxing under my chin in my pregnancy, and yet every time I would go to get it done, I’d receive an ‘Oh! Gee it’s so coarse isn’t it?’ from the beautician. No amount of waxing I did ever helped my body hair situation, it only made it come back with a vengeance.

Similarly to my stomach, whereby a waxer took it upon herself to remove the hair when I had asked for a standard brazilian wax and subsequently made it grow up faster and thicker than ever before. I finally caved to laser hair removal - and I use that word because I’d previously heard stories of how painful undertaking laser could be. My fair complexion combined with the darkness of my hair makes me the perfect candidate for laser hair removal, so despite my initial hesitation I was very enthusiastic to see if this could make an impact and in fact, change my life. I saw immediate results, and knew straight away I’d made the correct decision. My hair began to fall out before my eyes, and when it finally did start to grow back it was scarce, more refined and for the first time in my life - NOT SPIKEY! Beginning laser hair removal was something I initially started in my early 20s, but took a few backwards steps when I fell pregnant twice and due to the fact you cannot undertake this process when pregnant, I had to return to waxing. I often laugh thinking back to these things because it wasn’t just a red wine I craved during those 9 months... it was my laser! I had quickly forgotten how quickly hair grew back with waxing and how thick my hair once was. It was a nightmare! I now go in for my laser every 2-4 months, depending on the need and the area that most needs treating. As someone who once had leg hair that quite literally started growing back before I even had time to turn the shower off, to not having to shave my legs now for a month or two at a time is something I would have NEVER thought possible. Holidays now for me aren’t something that I dread, and I don’t even pack a razor! I just head in for a session before I go and I’m hair free for the duration of my trip! People often ask me about the price and affordability of it, however I see going only 3-4 times a year for a treatment that significantly refines your hair density, controls growth patterns and has the ability to permanently remove it - as a much more sustainable and painless option than a 3-4 weekly wax. To some, rapid and thick hair growth might not sound like a big issue. But as someone who’s faced life having it as one of her biggest insecurities, I am now so passionate about spreading the message that the Gentle Series Pro + Laser Hair Removal has absolutely changed my life and I encourage anyone who is facing anything that I’ve mentioned above, to 100% give it a try.

© 2019 Candela Corporation. This material contains registered and unregistered trademarks, trade-names, service marks and brand names of Candela Corporation and its affiliates. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved.

STYLE FILE

NUGGETT MCCABE

Celebrity film and TV makeup artist, Nuggett McCabe, recently launched a natural, organic, vegan, botanical based, anti-ageing skincare range, Nuggett x Charlie, named after her late, much loved pug. She shared with Michelle Ruzzene a few of her fave things that keep her healthy, happy and ageing gracefully. SIGNATURE LOOKS: Glowing skin, eyeshadows to enhance the colours of your eyes with a bold or nude lip.

PERSONAL MANTRA: Spoil, indulge, reward.

FAVE INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS: @pugloversclub and @amourducake

FAVE MAKEUP PRODUCT: Vani-T Mineral Powder - it is an Australian Brand and has an SPF15 and it gives a beautiful flawless natural glow and spritzed over with my Happiness Facial Mist it still looks great after a long day.

DREAM WEEKEND: Swimming across the ocean, lazing in the sun and then having a long lunch at Jonah’s Restaurant in Whale Beach.

MOST REWARDING CAREER MOMENT: Creating and launching my Happiness Skincare Range.

YOUR POISION: Fresh, cold pressed juices, kombucha and vanilla vodka with fresh limes and ginger beer.

LAST MEAL: My Nugg’s Raw Salad which is kale, baby spinach, celery, carrot, red cabbage, corn, beetroot, baby cucumber, grape tomatoes, cashews, cheese, sunflower seeds, slivered almonds, pineapple, pomegranate seeds all tossed In my caramelised balsamic dressing, watermelon and lots of berries.

CELEBRITY CRUSHWHEN IT COMES TO MAKEUP: Margot Robbie - she glows from the inside out with happiness no matter what she is wearing.

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PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE

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FOR RADIANT, EVEN AND HYDRATED SKIN E: info@cryomed.com.au T: 1300 346 448 W: cryomed.com.au

SOFIA’S CHOICE 20 years after arriving in Australia ‘with very little English’ from Moldova, Sofia Amirova is now ‘living the dream’ running her own salon in Sydney. She chats to Jenny Berich. When and why did you establish Amirova? “Amirova was established in 2017 and I have never looked back. Every day that I come in to work I can’t believe that I am living the dream by owning and operating a business all the way in Australia. “I had my eye on this location for years and began imagining how amazing it would be to open a clinic here. It had been vacant for 10 years and was thoroughly unloved but I had such a clear vision of what it could be. After two years of driving past, I finally gathered enough courage to call the real estate agent and make an appointment for an inspection. My budget wasn’t very high, so I was hoping the builder would agree to my terms and conditions. In reality, I actually left him with no choice. After the assessment, he gave me an estimate of the cost, and I said to him ‘Listen, I don’t have the money but you are going to help me and you will start the renovations in two weeks’. “Most people think I named the clinic Amirova because it is my family name, but I specifically chose it to honour my dad – to show him that what he saw in a five-year-old girl in a small country on the other side of the world has actually become a reality. It took me 10 years, but with hard work and a clear vision, I was able to do it. I look at the salon name every day and think of him.”

Tell us about the design/interior? “Our clients refer to Amirova Cosmetic Clinic as a peaceful getaway from the high demands of reality. It’s a calm oasis that allows them to unwind while feeling blissfully unaware of the outside world for a few precious moments. The whole clinic has been designed to work with the senses. Every sight, sound, smell and sensation has been carefully considered in order to provide as much relaxation as possible. The luxurious two-tone black and rose-gold décor creates a calming backdrop that helps soothe clients’ minds and lets them switch off from their worries and responsibilities. Likewise the lighting adds to the serene mood. We take the utmost care in setting lights as dim as possible for clients in relaxing services such as facials but still have strong enough light for our team to work safely as they strive to provide impeccable service.

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We have also placed fully stocked product cabinets in each of our treatment rooms so clients can take their time to peruse our range and discuss their concerns with us in private rather than in a public reception area.”

What equipment/devices do you stock? “Venus Versa, Regen lab centrifuge for PRP, Ultrasound BT Specular and Dermastamp 2.”

What skincare brands do you stock? “Amirova Cosmetic Clinic, Zo Skin Health and Dr Spiller.”

What does a typical working day involve for you? “Well most importantly ‘coffee, coffee and more coffee please”… Seriously though my day is non-stop cleaning, answering phones, filing, restocking, business analysis, performing treatments (the most enjoyable and rewarding part), writing notes, following up clients, researching, delegating tasks to my team and playing cello to calm down and balance myself… Who said running your own business is glamorous? Sometimes at the end of the day I look at myself and say ‘Is this what I really look like?’ and laugh as I was looking sort of OK this morning.”

What are some of the biggest successes you’ve had in your career (so far)? “Starting from absolutely ‘zero’ money and business knowledge to be where I am today! I am truly blessed to be doing what I am doing as I have this amazing privilege to change people’s lives. I, along with the rest of the industry, help to empower women and make them feel good about themselves. We are so often held back by how we see ourselves, but the work that we do has the key to unlocking something very important. We can provide a transformation on the outside for our clients to reveal something very special on the inside. When a client comes to me and walks out feeling more beautiful, she starts to think differently. She may have the confidence to rekindle a relationship or even start a new one. She may begin to shop differently, start an exercise regime, or do something completely new. We help women to move away from whatever is holding them back, so they can become the real, powerful version of themselves. I’m not saying a brow lift will change a client’s life, but may allow them to approach their days with more confidence and optimism. Transformation – that’s what we do. That’s my passion. That’s my business. That’s our industry.”

What are some of the challenges that you have faced in your career/clinic? “Two renovations in one year; a rebranding; a new website; and taking on the latest most innovative techonology. I push myself so hard and have such big expectations and find myself in most uncomfortable situations, but I am truly a believer that it is the only way we grow. If you want to succeed you’ve got to get used to being comfortable in the uncomfortable!”

What are your future plans for the clinic? “I am working on a couple things, so stay tuned."n

PROFILE

WE CAN PROVIDE A TRANSFORMATION ON THE OUTSIDE FOR OUR CLIENTS TO REVEAL SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL ON THEÂ INSIDE.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

TALKING POINT

INSTANT APPEAL The tanning industry is constantly evolving with new formulations and innovations. Anita Quade chats to those leading the way about the latest trends.

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TALKING POINT

NATURAL LOOK AUSTRALIA What do you think will be the top spray tanning trend for the 2019-20 season? “The wellness trend of clean, natural and organic ingredients has without a doubt shifted the skincare focus. Following this trend there will be a greater demand for tan products made from natural and organic, plantbased ingredients. Salon professionals and consumers alike are becoming much more aware of skincare ingredients and spray-tan is no exception. Tanning products that offer natural skin-conditioning and anti-ageing properties along with an array of quick developing, natural looking shades will continue to grow in popularity. Also, Vegan Friendly, Cruelty Free, Australian Made & Owned products will increase in popularity as the demand for transparency on where and how products are being produced increases.” What developments can we expect in the self-tanning arena going forward? “Trends come and go however staying power in the beauty industry is earned by products or ingredients that really work. As with spray tanning, self-tanning products will also see a shift in focus to contain more natural actives, combining treatments and tanning in one easy step. This direction will continue to gain momentum as the demand for at home treatments, minimalistic routines and the demand for multifunctional products increases. Personalisation will increase too, with naturally sourced colours and scents being used in conjunction with organic ingredients, to produce multi-purpose products with speedy, no-fuss application for all skin types.” Offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “Choosing a product that you feel confident in is the most important start to any great tanning salon. Confidence coupled with brand and product support will ensure you are providing the best service possible for your client. Ensure you have a great social media presence and encourage your clients to share and tag their tan images and stories with you. In today’s fast paced high-tech world, word of mouth continues to be a valuable marketing tool, so if your product and service are outstanding word will get out and you will be rewarded with a great client base.” Andrew Taverna Director www.naturallook.com.au

SALON INSIGHT With so many new formulas available, how can salons be sure they are safe and effective? “Australia’s product safety rules and standards are second to none, so buying homegrown is important to me. I choose to use Summer Kiss because it is made from 100% natural and organic ingredients by a company that has been manufacturing products for over 60 years. All their products are tested by a team of beauty therapists and cosmetic chemists, they are high quality, environmentally safe and cruelty free, so I know they are safe and effective.” Kessel Run Salon Maree Venturini Owner (08) 82983388

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

TALKING POINT

ENCORE BEAUTY What will be the top spray tanning trend for the 2019-20 season ahead? “One of the key spray tanning trends for the 2019-20 season is to create a natural sunless-tanning result. Clients are looking for a sophisticated healthy glow that compliments their own natural beauty. Vita Liberata spray tan gives the most natural tanning result, as it is bursting with organic extracts and has a unique moisture locking system that creates super soft, hydrated skin and a perfect fade every time. With flash dry technology your tan will dry on contact with the skin, and it also provides an odourless smell, all contributing to the most natural sunless-tanning result. Clients are not only looking for a natural lasting tan however, they also want a golden glow for those special occasions. By applying a self-tan product such as Body Blur HD Skin Finish over the professional spray tan, it will add a knockout glow to give your skin the most flawless glowy finish.” What developments can we expect in the self-tanning arena? “In the last 10-15 years there has been increasing concern about the way we grow, harvest and synthesise ingredients for our food and our personal care. Vita Liberata is committed to removing all cosmetic chemicals of concern from our formulas to ensure our products are always clean and safe. With ingredients such as Aloe Vera, an antibacterial and anti-ageing source of Vitamin C & E, you can be sure Vita Liberata is one of the cleanest tans on the market. This is evident in our very clean 0-2 rating on the ‘Think Dirty’ App. Another large area of development in the self-tanning area is the creation of instant skin tanning and highlighting products for the face and body. You can now apply a product such as Beauty Blur or Body Blur in a matter of minutes and have a perfect glowing tan instantly. For those that would like their tan to last a few days from an instant application there is now the “Sunless Glow” version which will last approx. five days from application. If you are looking for a mess free, easy to travel with tanning product you can’t go past the phenomenal Organic Tan Wipes! Two of these biodegradable wipes (in a sachet) will tan your entire body from head to toe and will give you a lasting hydrated tan for approximately 10 days!” How will education and training differ for salon owners for the coming season? “Education and training can now be offered digitally through social media, digital assets, online training hubs, videos and webinars. This gives salon owners the flexibility to educate and train at their own convenience without hindering key appointment times. Training material can be downloaded as and when required to keep salon owners and their staff up to date with the latest tips for tanning.” Shannon Earls General Manager www.encorebeauty.com.au

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SALON INSIGHT With so many formulas available, how can salons be sure they are safe and effective? “As a salon owner, with fair skin, I know all too well what it feels like to react to and wear a disaster tan. I even had a hospital visit to reverse the chemical side effects caused by an early DIY crème that first hit the homecare market prior to my beauty career. The experience put me on a personal journey to finding safe and effective tan products with organic ingredients for my clients, who come for my professional spray tans. Smell is a big deciding factor for me also; my psychosomatic nose can smell the nasty’s a mile away. Saturation, colour choice and fading are big factors as well. I personally have saved my clients a whole lot of grief, resulting in trust and return business. The long duration of the tan for summer holidays and events, with the guidance of the correct pre/post tan care in the home has won client confidence. My choices are safe, with quality care and the best results, thanks to Vita Liberata.” Nicole Terri Beauti Nicole Terri Owner www.nicoleterri.com.au

TALKING POINT ECO TAN What will be the top spray tanning trend for the 2019/2020 season ahead? “I believe the top spray tanning trend for 2019-2020 season will be “the healthy option”. The beauty and wellness industry has combined and consumers want to look amazing but are so much more mindful of what products they are using and putting on their skin. Eco Tan has two Professional Solutions - Rich Honey and Two Solution, our solutions are made with only Certified Organic and natural ingredients, Vegan, Cruelty Free, Australian Made and owned. Yes! It is possible to achieve a year round golden nourishing glow using ingredients like Cacao and Caramel - no nasties!” How will education and training differ for salon owners for the coming season? “Education and Training is integral for salon owners – pre and post tan education is so important to achieving the very best tan. The clients getting tanned need a complete service and this starts at the time of booking, the client needs to be informed about exfoliation and how to best come prepared for the spray tan treatment. The spray tan technician is offered continued support by us at Eco Tan, our tanners have a representative who

offers ongoing support. We offer education online such as videos and product knowledge on ingredients as well as application guides, Certificate Training and brand awareness. We also encourage our clients to offer after care tips and products, this is a great way to extend and get the best longevity from your tan.” Offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “I would recommend that they are present on social media. Owners should post regularly and show clients what results they can achieve in your salon, promote after care and show the clients your space. We also offer marketing support such as loyalty cards to encourage return business. At Eco Tan we offer our clients professional images they are able to use to promote their spray tan business. We encourage clients to promote themselves and we are happy to include clients photographs on our Instagram stories, we love sharing in our clients success and strive to encourage and promote them whereever possible.” Tash Gladwin Eco Tan Tanning Specialist www.ecotan.com.au

SALON INSIGHT Are customers requesting natural/organic tans and how has this affected your offering? “I choose to base my whole business around quality organic products, they are all that I use here! I do this because using natural products is important to me and I wasn’t willing to compromise on this in my business. I think people are becoming more aware of some of the toxic ingredients used in tanning and beauty products and this is exciting. Often clients will come to my salon because they hear that I use natural products. Often they have tried other EcoTan products and are excited to try the spray tan or just prefer the idea of natural.” Bronzed Hunnyz Tanning Anita Corry Owner www.bronzedhunnyztanning.com

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AUSSIE BOMBSHELL What developments can we expect in the self-tanning arena? “I think we will see less fillers in the ingredients lists. Our consumers are becoming so savvy that they no longer want to compromise their skin with additives such as fragrance and bronzers, so I believe we will see product manufacturers beginning to adopt this philosophy in order to stay relevant in the ever-moving market.” How will education and training differ for salon owners for the coming season? “I have always been an advocate for training in both theory and practical areas of tanning, but I feel we also need to move towards a slight shift in gears and focus on mindfulness and customer service. Therapists sometimes forget that they are in an industry to make people feel better, so I think if we spend a little bit of time reminding salon staff to put their clients needs first, it could serve for a better outcome for business owners in the long term. In reference to my own client base, I always say “No-one comes to me just for a tan!” – it’s all about the customer experience from start to finish.” Offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “Perfect your application. There are only so many ingredients in all tanning products, so the way to cut through the market is by ensuring that your application is superior to your competitors. I always say that tanning is far more scientific than people realise and 99% of the time, the difference between a good tan and a bad one is knowing how to apply the correct tan on the varying skin tones. Good spray tan application can also affect how well a tan fades off the body – if you perfect your spray tanning, the word of mouth PR is priceless!” Penni Towner Director www.aussiebombshell.com.au

SALON INSIGHT Are customers requesting natural/organic tans and how has this affected your offering to clients? “At Keturah, our clientele trust that we are always providing them with superior products on the market. As the average consumer becomes more educated, we do find that there is a greater request for products that sit more on the natural spectrum but we are able to meet and exceed client expectations as we have done our research and are confident with Aussie Bombshell as our choice of tanning product.” Keturah Day Spa Jemma Stergiou Group Director www.keturah.com.au

TALKING POINT

BLACK MAGIC TAN AUSTRALIA What will be the top spray tanning trend for the 201920 season? “We see the trend for that ultimate dark tan continuing, so evolving products that can deliver these results are going to be at the forefront for any brand. Professional spray tanners are learning that it’s not always about the highest DHA percentage that achieves these results. We have worked closely with our professional spray tanners to show them how to achieve that beautiful deep dark tan without the concern of overdevelopment, as it’s not just about that dark tan its also the way the tan looks and fades.” What product innovations are set to shake up the tanning market? “Spray tanners being able to offer their clients a beauty treatment within a spray tan, we are seeing products coming out with new skin conditioning treatments, Black Magic Tans new Intansify range fits right in here but opens up a whole new world for the spray tanner. The ability to adjust a particular treatment for a client as a one-off is now just a few drops away. We feel that these new products will help lift sales and offering skin enhancements to their client is going to give them an edge over their competitors.” Offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “Offering a professional product and one not carried in your local supermarket or chemist, some salons may think its good because of brand awareness, however, the likelihood is that the client will just use them for special occasions, and always use the supermarket brand as their weekly tan. Also, skin analysis, working with a client to get the very best from their spray tan with product selection and the correct colour choice will go a long way to gaining trust, last but not least luxury tanning options, offering prep treatments and colour locking products just adds to the spray tan experience.” Brett Black Founder www.spraytanning.com.au

SALON INSIGHT With so many new formulas available, how can salons be sure they are safe and effective? By sticking with a brand you can rely on for correct information about their new products, and testing and trialling products yourself, you also need to do your due diligence and check ingredients, and the claims being made. So many brands say they are the first or have reinvented but a lot of the time when you dig deep you see its a marketing spin. It’s why I still find myself using and building my business with the same product I started with over ten years ago. Luxe Tan Studio Sydney Anita Phanna Salon Owner www.luxetanstudio.com.au

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TALKING POINT

SUNESCAPE TAN How will education and training differ for salon owners for the coming season ahead? “Salon owners don’t need training on how to perform a better spray tan – many of them perform dozens every day. What they really need is education and training on how to build a profitable tanning business. Tanning can become one of the most lucrative profit centres in a salon business if it’s operated well, but salon owners need to know how to manage cost of goods, how to retail, how to create compelling packages, how to evaluate profit per minute and so on. Our goal at PBS is to help our salon, spa and clinic partners become the most profitable in the industry, and providing them with ongoing business education and training with Sunescape Tan is crucial to achieving that goal.” Can you offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “The key is to create an outstanding quality tanning experience that leaves your clients raving to their friends about your salon. Remember – word of mouth advertising is still the most powerful form of marketing available, and it costs you nothing! Modern marketing methods – from search engine optimisation (SEO) to social media – are great, but they’re only as good as the quality of the products and services you deliver to your clients.” How has the trend of personalisation affected the tanning industry? “There’s a lot of hype around personalisation and I don’t want to come across as contrarian, but I think it’s a fad rather than a trend. Shoes Of Prey is a good example of a business that focused on personalisation and failed, and while focus group participants might say they want product and services customdesigned to suit their needs, convenience still seems to win out when it comes to consumer purchasing decisions. In the professional beauty industry, tanning salons may choose to offer a mix of different tanning solutions or customised contouring, but our most successful tanning salons don’t rely on these concepts to drive sales.” Matt Williams CEO www.probeautysolutions.com.au

SALON INSIGHT Has the boom in take home retail tanning products impacted your salon client volumes? “Selling retail tanning products at Tan Temple has definitely increased client volumes. But more importantly it has increased our revenue. Retail sales make up 15% of our income. I don’t think there should be any fear in selling retail tanning products to your clients. I see it as ensuring they are getting the best out of their spray tan. I think it’s important to use really good quality products on your skin daily to maintain a flawless tan. We recommend Sunescape sulphate free Body Wash and Hydrating Body Butter to every single client as these two products alone will ensure a long-lasting tan that fades evenly. If clients are able to maintain their tans and even extend the life of them with Sunescape Gradual Tan Extender or Instant Self Tan Mousse, this creates a positive experience, which is going to make them want to come back for more.” Tan Temple Jacci Haslam Salon Owner www.tantemple.com.au

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How will education and training differ for salon owners for the coming season? “The expansion of more online educational tools will become the way of the future. By offering more online education tools, this will allow salons more flexibility and the ability to improve their product knowledge at their convenience. We have found providing an online hub also will enable them to feel connected with the brand as it continually grows, proving that ‘knowledge is power’!” Offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “Social media is a great way to not only connect with your customers, but it also increases awareness of the services you offer. By sharing your work, your customer can see the type of service they’re going to receive. Visual content connects with the consumer, and this also creates talking points which help you engage with spray tan enthusiasts that want to know more

SALON INSIGHT With so many new formulas available how can salons be sure they are safe and effective? “With such a wide variety of tanning products available in the market, I believe it is vital to do extensive research on the brand and products you choose to use in your salon. From understanding what ingredients are in the formulation, to where the products are manufactured, and the brand ethos are some essential deal-breakers to me. Client experience is crucial, and I want my clients to experience the best products

about the brand/product. Establishing relationships via social media builds a relationship that can sometimes become lost in the salon due to time constraints.”

TALKING POINT

MOROCCAN TAN

How have you seen the trend for personalisation affect the tanning industry? “It has been a significant shift in the industry. With more consumers becoming more health-conscious, they are more invested in what they are putting on their skin, creating a definite push for salons and their staff to understand the key ingredients of individual products so they can offer more bespoke treatment. This change also helps keep brands accountable to adhere to more of a mindful beauty approach and a more profound connection with consumer needs when creating products.” Amanda Hills www.moroccantan.com

in the industry that not only perform well but are healthy for their skin and suit their lifestyle. Trialling a formula on myself or colleagues before using on clients helps to understand the product and assist in achieving the desired results by introducing different variants that we can only learn from a trial and error process.” GM Beauty & Tanning Gen Sedy Owner Instagram: @gmbeautyandtanning

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TALKING POINT

LYCON COSMETICS What developments can we expect in the self-tanning arena going forward? “In this fast-paced, last minute society, clients no longer want or have the time to sit in their tan all day waiting for it to develop. The industry is moving towards rapid action formulations. This leads us to believe that we can probably expect evolutionary improvement in rapidaction formulations and the way in which spray tans are delivered.” What product innovations are set to shake up the tanning market? “It’s not a revolution, but more of a sub-category growth driver: oil soluble DHA is becoming available. This means sunless tanning oils that provide extra caring and hydrating properties may become a growing product form.” How has the trend for personalisation affected the tanning industry? “Clients are searching for the perfect tan, one that matches perfectly with their individual skin tone, it’s definitely not one shade suits all. To cater to this personalisation demand salons and manufacturers need to be able to offer a wide variety of shades with a customisable colour benefit depending on the length of the tan development.” Aly Hope National Sales and Training Manager www.lycon.com.au

SALON INSIGHT In what ways is the sunless tanning segment growing? “Ozone layer damage has caused climate change and therefore a constant threat of cancer to our skin due to the sun’s rays becoming increasingly more damaging. Clients are becoming more aware of this and are able to access sunless tanning options, which enables clients to look as though they have been on a holiday without the skin concerns. Clients are wanting more skilled therapists who are providing an airbrushed look, going back to what it was originally designed to do – tanned, flawless skin that looks natural without the cancer threat. Silhouette Waxing and Tanning Studio Zoe McMillan Owner and operator www.silhouettewaxandtan.com

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ZUII ORGANIC What developments can we expect in the self-tanning arena? “As the self-tanning arena continues to expand, I think we can expect to see a major growth in companies shifting to more organic formulas. As consumers are becoming much more aware of what they are putting onto their body, and how said products are being made, companies will undoubtedly begin to lean in a direction that is focussed around meeting these desires. Be that through switching to completely organic workings, sourcing ingredients that are completely sustainable, I believe that the biggest development will be a major shift to a totally organic self-tanning world.” Offer one tip on how salons can grow their spray tan client base? “From what I have seen, the most important tip for salons expanding their spray tan customer base is simply through educating the consumer. A lot of first time spray tanners are scared of the process, or are worried that the end result will not provide them with what they desire. To combat that, it’s so important to educate from start to finish throughout the process – what’s in the solution, why those ingredients are going to provide an incredible finish, why the particular solution is suited to the consumer, etc. By doing this, the nerves are reduced, and they feel completely safe with the process. That’s my biggest tip – education is key.” How will education and training differ for salon owners for the coming season? “As we are already seeing a shift to more naturally and/or organically formulated tanning products, the educating is going to significantly differ this season. Organic formulas perform different to chemical-based solutions, from the application to the performance. Salon owners will have to be completely re-educated on this organic shift, learning all about why certain ingredients are used to create the end results and what benefits these sustainably sourced ingredients provide to the skin, while also learning all about how the maintenance will differ from what they are used to. Essentially, the education will still be as incredible as ever, however the focus of said education will be the key difference this coming season.” Abbi Kerr International Brand Director www.zuiiorganic.com

SALON INSIGHT Are customers today requesting natural/organic tans and how has this affected your offering? “Yes, now more than ever our customer base is leaning towards more organic tanning alternatives – the enquiries about natural tan products are at an all-time high. People are much more aware of what they are putting onto their skin, and the effects that this will have on them in the long run. But, we are now so lucky to have Zuii Organic in stores – which has been met with such a great response from our customers. We stock a variety of products, and we now love that we have a 1L Spray Tan which is certified vegan, certified organic, streak-free and offers a beautiful colour. The Zuii Organic Spray Tan Fusion is exclusive to glamaCo, and we are very fortunate to have this product available to our wonderful customer base.” glamaCo Mermaid Waters Chantelle Crowley Manager www.glamaco.com.au

@ecotan

@ecotanaus

Ecococo Glow Professional Hydrating Tan Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387

Byron Bay Bronze Self Tanning Foam Medium Byron Bay Bronze 1300 722 397

Eco Tan Hempitan Eco Tan 1300 596 118

Lyco-Bronze Rapid Spray Tan Extra Dark Lycon Cosmetics 07 3004 6200

Summer Kiss Ultra Dark Bronzing Mousse - Artav Australia 1800 805 276

Mary Kay Sun Care Subtle Tanning Lotion Mary Kay 1300 797 107

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St Tropez Gradual Tan Watermelon Infusion Moisture Miracle Body Lotion St Tropez 03 8545 2700

TANNING

Sunescape Illuminating Body Tint Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Zuii Organic Certified Organic Flora Spray Tan Fusion Ultra Dark GlamaCo 1300 343 572

Vita Liberata Ten Minute Tan 150ml Encore Beauty 1300 770 428

Sosu Dripping Gold Luxury Tanning Lotion Sosu by Suzanne Jackson customerservice@sosubysj.com

MoroccanTan Instant Airbrush BSB Pacific 1300 867 826 Salt by Hendrix Body Glow in Blush Skies - Salt by Hendrix 0452 183 503

Aussie Bombshell Sunless Spray Tan 15% Express Aussie Bombshell 0408 123 245

Black Magic iTan Pro with Deluxe Gun - Black Magic Tan 02 9620 7665

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ELLEEBANA

LOOK BOOK Since 1995, Elleebana has built a global following as world leaders in eyelash and eyebrow enhancement. Superior quality products and world-class training programs give Elleebana stylists and educators the competitive edge to succeed in the fast-paced world of beauty. Elleebana is available in 60 countries globally and growing with treatment evolution to influence the global market. Managing Director, Otto Mitter, walks us through his hottest Elleebana looks and offers exclusive product tips to enhance your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; look before the make-up goes on!

EYELASH EXTENSIONS Russian volume application was applied using the luxurious Elleebana premium eyelash extensions range. A modified kitten effect was chosen for the styling using a selection of 0.07 and 0.05 diameter and a blend of curls utilising C-curl and D-curl. The D-curl was customised on the lower layers with a blend of C-curl on the top layers to create a thicker eye line effect and give more definition. As the model has an oval facial structure, D-Curl was applied through the medial to outer section of the eye to open up and create more lift. This styling technique compliments the clients facial features and bone structure giving this model a more harmonious and symmetrical look. Brows were finished using the Elleebana Precision Brow Series in Dark Ash Brown, bringing out the models eye colour and creating a flawless finish. Lash extensions image artist: Elleebana Master Trainer - Jessica Eaton

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MASTERCLASS PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 79

ELLEEBANA BROW HENNA (above and opposite page)

Brows shaped and defined using the Elleebana Brow Henna Design System – a 98% natural based eyebrow tint A natural alternative to traditional eyebrow tinting, Elleebana’s innovative formula helps to strengthen hair, restore growth and the natural shape of the eyebrows. Our Professional range of Elleebana Brow Henna consists of 7 highly pigmented, luxurious colours, perfect for each skin type and tone, and can easily be mixed and customised to create true brow magic. The ability to tailor the shade to the individual offers an advantageous edge when trying to stand out from the competition. The colour chosen for our model was a customised selection comprised of 3/4 Natural Brown to compliment the warm tones and 1/4 Dark Brown for a subtle additional depth of colour. Henna Brow image artist - Elleebana Managing Director - Otto Mitter 80 | WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU

MASTERCLASS PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 81

ELLEEBANA LASH LIFT This signature Elleebana Lash Lift was achieved on our model using the globally renowned Elleebana One Shot Lash Lift formula which allows a faster treatment time for the lash lift procedure. A medium size silicone rod was chosen for natural curvature of lashes and a unique concave design. This style rod helps to guide a natural sweeping effect with lash placement and separation of lashes during the placement procedure. Processing times of 6 minutes for the lift component and 5 minutes for the setting lotion ensures a safe and correct procedure for the models lash structure. Elleeplex After Care For Lash Lift strengthening serum was applied to add amino acids and nutrients to the lashes to ensure optimum lash health and maintain integrity of the lashes. Elleevate Mascara containing Keratin, Biotin and Arginine is the ultimate finishing product, giving extra length and volume for the ultimate wow factor, perfect for adding dark definition on clients that are not suitable for tinting and helps for styling the lashes to accentuate the outer and inner corners of the lash line. Lash Lift image artist: Elleebana Managing Director - Otto Mitter 82 | WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU

Elleevate Elleeplex Aftercare Mascara

MASTERCLASS

from THE SHOOT...

Otto Mitter

Managing Director Ex-Import Niche Products

The Original Lash Lift Adhesive Squeeze Tube

Elleebana 10 Shot Lash Lift Refill

Elleebana Premade Volume Lash Extensions

Elleebana Ultra Super Adhesive

Elleebana Brow Henna Range

What attracted you to the world of beauty? “I can really thank my family for this one, my mother started the Gold Coast Training Academy which was an extremely successful beauty college (now the French Beauty Academy) and she was quite a pioneer in the Australian Beauty Industry, she co-wrote the very first government accredited course the Diploma of Beauty Therapy and co-wrote the Advanced Diploma of Health Science and Aesthetics. I would ride my bike after school each day to my Mum’s college and wait for her to finish work so I’d spend a lot of time at the college getting to know all the teachers and students and seeing how everything works, mum used to get me in as model for deep cleansing for the students which I hated!. I finished high school and was at a cross road, Mum said “why don’t you come and study at my school” I was a bit of a creative and had an inkling to do special effects make up for film, so I enrolled for the Cert 4 in make up and started to learn the tricks of the trade. I did a few modules from the Diploma of Beauty as well and then once I graduated I set out into the world doing some gigs for bridal and photographic make up. After a few months of doing that I started to feel out of place, I started saying to myself, I should be building houses or working on cars or doing more “boy type jobs” so I left the industry to pursue other interests and studies in business and music. The years passed and somehow I found myself slowly coming back into the world of beauty but this time I was drawn towards lash and brow product development and design, personal care formulation and training and assessment. ” How was Ex-Import Niche products launched? “Ex-Import was created by my step father Warren Barlin about 25 years ago now, it’s incredible to see the company go from strength to strength over years to what it is today. ExImport was a small company that just focused on the importation of Belmacil into Australia, the product is fantastic and Warren set up a great distribution network with Australia’s finest wholesalers, Unfortunately Warren suffered some challenges with his health and I had to jump in and help to manage while he was recovering. Around 15 years ago I ended up buying into the company and deciding that I wanted to really have a go at building the business to the next level, so I developed new products and re developed the current products, giving the range a whole new look and feel with advanced formulations and the other goal I had was to start exporting. We now have distributors in 60 countries around the world, something that I’m extremely proud of. My wife Zoe Mitter joined the team and she is a business powerhouse and has really helped me with a lot of areas in the business and we expanded our HQ team so that we could grow to the next level and manage the growth of the brands Elleebana and Belmacil.” You have spent two decades of studying lashes, brows along with beauty and cosmetic formulations – how have you seen the industry evolve? “I’ve seen lots of changes and trends in the industry over the years, brands have come and gone, it really isn’t as easy as one might think to maintain and build a successful brand in the beauty industry, it takes consistency, integrity, a dynamic team with impeccable customer service and skill sets and of course great products that give results that keep clients coming back for more. The areas of the industry that I specialise in has had a lot of developments and is constantly evolving. Eyelash extensions for example was something that took the world by storm but there were issues with adhesive not working or incorrect training methods or limited support for many therapists, so it has taken years of research from technicians & professionals to develop safer methods and faster more efficient and cost effective products to help improve the viability of offering these services in the salon. Another interesting development is the art of Lash Lift. This originally started as lash perming around 20 or so years ago, but a few changes to the tools we use and the formulations helped to see this beauty treatment become the 2nd highest googled beauty treatment of 2018. Brows is another huge one, this has just boomed with Instagram and social media and of course the need for everybody to look their very best in 2019. The art of shaping, colouring using tint or henna is huge and the results look incredible and are adored by many. Cosmetic tattooing is another that has boomed over the past few years, giving technicians the ability to make enhancements with new types of pigments that give better long term results. Ingredients is a big one, people are certainly more conscious about options that are available to them.”

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EYEBROWS

Browista Palette and Browista Ring both allow for hands-free brow and lash tinting - RefectoCil Australia 02 7200 8452

Elleebana Brow Henna Natural Brown Ex-Import Niche ProductsÂ 07 5576 6388 Elleeplex ReGen for a healthy lash lift Ex-Import Niche Products 07 5576 6388

Browista Toolkit RefectoCil Australia 02 7200 8452

Nouveau Lashes Lash and Brow Serum Bio Beauty Concepts 02 8218 4500

Nouveau Lashes LVL Collagen Lifting System Bio Beauty Concepts 02 8218 4500

Henna Training Kit Fox Cosmetics 1300 551 876

Henn Duo in Marilyn / Blonde Fox Cosmetics 1300 551 876

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For those hyper-sensitive clients, RefectoCil Sensitive Range is the first lash & brow tint based on herbal & plant extracts. Style and nourish your brows with natural ingredients including green tea, blueberry, St. Johns Wart and hydrangea. The ultimate lash and brow makeover for Spring! Dermatologically tested.

+61 2 7200 8452 | sales@refectocil-australia.com.au | www.refectocil-australia.com.au

THE HIGH BROW GAME The rise and rise of bold brows and eyelash extensions are accounting for a huge slice of the beauty market with salon owners keen to specialise in the booming trend. Anita Quade investigates. IN THE PAST decade many beauty salons dedicated solely to eyebrows and lashes have started popping up offering a service menu to women ranging from brow waxing to microblading along with lash extensions and lash lifts. Among the pioneers of the dedicated brow space was Benefit who opened their first Australian Browbar in Sydney during 2009. Fast forward to today and to date in 2019 Benefit BrowBars are waxing 20,000 brows per month and such is the popularity the brand now has 29 Myer BrowBars and by October 2019 will boast 19 bars in Sephora. Benefit also operates more than 2,800 BrowBars around the world in 43 countries which sees the company wax over 5 million brows every year. Benefit, National Brow Artist Hannah Mutze reveals that the company’s founders Jean and Jane Ford always believed in the power of great brows. Benefit offered waxing for brows in its very first cosmetics store in San Francisco in 1976, well ahead of the brow resurgence of the last 10 years. Mutze says that trend for brows can be attributed to many factors including the popularity of celebrities including model Cara Delevigne who made brows cool again by embracing her famous oversized pair. “The beauty trend space as a whole has grown exponentially in the last decade. Fuelled by social media, trends are shared globally within seconds

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and recreated within minutes. The hashtag #browsonfleek has over 3.5million tags,” she says. Hannah also admits that the launch of a wider range of products has contributed to the brow craze. “The one shade suits all pencil of yesteryear has been replaced with an abundance of gels, pencils, waxes, creams and crayons.” While lash tinting, curling and lifting is on the rise in popularity, she says Benefit doesn’t have any plans to offer these services at this stage and although dedicated Benefit Boutiques exist in other markets including the US, UK and Europe there has been discussions about a potential stand-alone boutique but there are no definite plans at this stage. It’s not just major franchises that are seeing the opportunity – budding entrepreneurs have cashed in on the enormous trend and have managed to build a multi-million dollar business. One of the USA’s wealthiest self-made female billionaires, Anastasia Soare (founder of Anastasia Beverly Hills) amassed her fortune estimated at $1.2 billion by shaping women’s brows. She set up her own self-titled salon in Beverly Hills in 1997 and launched a line of eyebrow products in 2000. On a local scale more and more salon owners are realising the value in brows and lashes and are opening spaces to meet the demand. Bat Your Lash owner Nadia Eizadi opened the updated version of her company in March 2018 on the popular Greville Street strip in Melbourne after operating a small salon for five years which was tucked away upstairs on Toorak Road in South Yarra. “I planned to expand and improve the business once we moved to Greville St so it could be a vegan, cruelty-free, toxic-free and eco-friendly boutique salon that specialise in lashes, brows, manicure, pedicure, make-up and waxing,” she said. The urban oasis originally started out offering just lashes and brows and Nadia reveals it was booked out every day but now it has also expanded to a more extensive beauty menu. She reveals that staff training in lashes and brows can take up to one week but says she thoroughly trains her staff because of client’s high expectations. “Once staff are hired by us, I spend 3- 6 months doing intense and ongoing training. It’s not just the skill it’s also having the right personality and passion,” she says. The salon’s most requested eyebrow look is a fuller brow, in line with many social media influencer trends. “We generally try to not always follow trends as I believe everyone’s face is different, so we like to cater to each client individually to enhance their natural beauty,” Eizadi says. Another service she offers is eyelashes, which has become big business as a compliment to the brows offering.

in my opinion) I start with on my brides, they can make a face look awake and fresh or dull and ageing,” she says. “Thick bold brows have been on trend since 2010, and I don’t see it going away anytime soon. What has changed is seeing really dark, thick, defined, polished brows, known as the ‘Instagram brow’ to a more natural, thick fluffy brow.” She also reveals that lashes are particularly popular with brides and have become more natural over the past five years and have changed from thick, dark strip lashes that can look overdone to a more simple flare lash. Juliette says thanks to the strong demand for brows it was important to upskill and become certified in microblading. “It took me six months to get certified. I did an intensive online course with an international academy, Phi Brows, but there are many courses that can range from one week to six months.” She says the microblading trend at the moment is similar to powdering and a combination of both, depending on what depth cllients like their brows. “I definitely think celebrities have a big influence, one being the Kardashians. I find most of my clients will bring a reference picture of one of the sisters to their trial. ” she adds. Sydneysider Amy Jean who specialises in brows and lashes is no stranger to the celebrity trend – having tended the brows of A-listers including Naomi Campbell to Danni Minogue and has the moniker as ‘Arch Angel to the stars.’ She opened her first salon aged 32 in Queensland in 2004 and has since grown her eyebrow empire to include a Brisbane James Street site, an opulent space in Sydney’s CBD, Double Bay at the Intercontinental Hotel and recently a luxe space in Byron Bay. Amy says: “Semi-permanent brow and lash treatments have broken new ground in terms of time-saving beauty.” Amy admits that constantly keeping up with education is hugely important to stay ahead of the trends. “While I’m abroad I make the most of the opportunity to extensively research new ingredients and delivery mechanisms for her own products and services.” The new mum also has her own line of products titled Amy Jean Privee. In testimony to the popularity of her range and the brow and lash trend – in February this year, her line was the first international luxury eyebrow collection to be launched on NET-A-PORTER and included her Brow Veil to sculpt brows on the go, the micro-stroke pencil and brow beam highlighter. “It’s such an exciting, ever-developing beauty niche. Not a day goes by that I don’t feel blessed to be a bespoke brow artisan at this moment in time.” n

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BROWS & LASHES

“The most requested eyelash look is definitely a mix of natural and full, our clients come to us because of our precision work and natural finish. At Bat Your Lash, we use minimal glue and precisely apply high-quality lashes directly on top of your own natural lash making sure it doesn’t damage your own lashes nor weigh them down.” Nadia says more and more people are trying to look natural as “putting a lot of makeup on can funnily enough make you look older sometimes.” Sydney brow artist Jazz Pampling also realised there was a massive opportunity in the market and launched her own self named business in mid 2010. “I didn’t mean to launch my business, it all just kind of took off on its own. Potentially the more you know sometimes, the less likely you are to jump into a challenge. I initially started driving to clients all over Sydney, as I couldn’t afford a salon. I also worked part time in hospitality, and after three years I had a client base strong enough for me to rely on full time,” she says. “I came into brows 10 years ago, just as the wave of brow popularity was hitting. I approached brow shaping with the idea that brows should be more natural and fuller, which was the trend at the time and still is in many ways. I believe this coupled with my consultation process, is why I was able to succeed in the industry. There is a level of service that is expected once you start charging certain prices, and I’ve always prided myself on ensuring I meet the highest standards of service with my clients.” “Brow artistry as a profession has really taken off. When I first started brow shaping people scoffed at my work, thinking it was over kill. Women and men all over started to realise they were damaging their brows, professionals started to realise the same and there was a general shift towards stopping that.” Jazz admits the 90s were a dark time for brows and the thin trend resulted in brows slowly disappearing all together as women’s entered into the 00’s with nothing left above their eyes. “We now see brow focused stores everywhere, it’s a service that an individual can provide on their own, with minimal outlay, which is in line with much of the beauty industry. Eyebrows are big business, everyone has jumped on the trend over the years, from small business owners, to big businesses such as Benefit. It would be amiss of someone to under estimate the value it can bring to a company,” she says. Jazz pinpoints social media, influencers and cosmetic injectors who have played a big part in the rise of this industry as people are more conscious than ever about how they look. “ I work with cosmetic injectors because their services directly affect mine and vice versa, so it makes sense for these industries to connect and drive each forward in popularity.” She says she doesn’t forsee a let up in the brow trend thanks to the introduction of microblading and feathering which has driven the world of brows further into the spotlight. “It’s possible we have taken our brow obsession too far (yes, a brow artist said that). There is a misconception that brow tattooing is quick easy money for minimal effort. Actually, it’s a lot of money and investment into tools and education,” she says. Makeup artist and brow specialist Juliette Carroll set up her own business five years ago and says microblading is a huge part of her turnover and she recently got certified to offer the service to fill demand. “I would say the majority of my business is dedicated to brows. I started my career as a beauty therapist – shaping, waxing and tinting brows, to expanding it as a professional wedding makeup artist and microblading artist. Eyebrows are the first feature (the most important

PROFILE

GINA BROOKE This makeup artist created an iconic diamond lash set for a notable client and the design was sold to Neiman Marcus for an eye-watering $10,000 per pair, making them the world’s most expensive lashes. She has also collaborated with Madonna on five world concert tours on her makeup look and her work has graced glossy magazines around the world.

What do you think is behind the trend for bold brows and lashes? “Expressing individuality, celebrating diversity and over the top/theatrical looks are what I love most about bold trends.”

These two sectors have become such big business in the past five years – why do you think that is? “Brows frame the face and convey emotions. Eyes are the most eloquent feature of the face and lashes are the most gratifying way to instantly enhance the eyes.”

Do you think we will ever see a revival on the thin eyebrow again? “Anything is possible although thin brows require more maintenance than thicker brows and the risks are far greater in terms of growth depending on how brows are removed.”

You created the world’s most expensive lashes – what are the trends in lashes currently? “The trends at the moment are exaggerated lashes which I love. I think it’s a whimsical, theatrical and an outlandish way of expressing oneself artistically.”

Why do you think women have turned the focus to lashes? “Lashes provide immediate gratification and instantly enhance the eyes.”

Do you see the trend for brow bars and lash bars continuing? “I do hope so! With the popularity lashes and brows – boutique beauty bars seem to make perfect sense to me!”

What is it you love most about your role? “I’m grateful to be in the position to choose my clientele and will continue to work with large and niche brands to predict trends and encourage brands to create non-toxic products using sustainable packaging to protect and preserve the planet.” n

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PROFILE

KRISTIN FISHER The woman behind the brows of celebrities including Jesinta Franklin and jet-set clients thanks to her signature salon in the Double Bay. Why do you think eyebrows have become so popular in the past decade? “Eyebrows have always been a “thing”. If you look back in history you can match the brow trends to each decade. Social media, and the availability of information and inspiration on the Internet has definitely increased the popularity of brow treatments. Personal grooming has also become more of a necessity than a luxury. Having a regular specialised brow appointment has become the absolute norm!”

Any celebrities that you would say have the perfect arches? “I do admire Emily Ratajkowski’s brows. She keeps them full and fluffy at the start of the brow, and cleans up her arch. Her tint isn’t too dark either, so it doesn’t distract away from her beautiful features.”

What is the most requested eyebrow trend at your salon? “Lots of our clients make brow references to the Kardashians and Megan Fox who have perfectly preened, full dark brows. Although having a vision helps, we really try to educate our clients that we need to work with their natural shape and colouring to give them a unique brow that suits them!”

How do you stay ahead of the game? “I am always open to the learning latest techniques and keeping up with the latest trends. I am actually off to LA this year to complete another intensive brow tattooing course.”

treating each client as unique, because the reality is we are all SO different, so it’s definitely not a one-size fits all scenario!”

What trends can we expect to see emerging over the next year? “The stigma attached to brow tattooing has well and truly gone. We’ll see more and more people embracing this treatment. Our lives are becoming more and more fast paced, so semi-permenant is the way to go!”

Biggest point of difference from other brow shapers?

What do you love most about your job and your title Eyebrow Queen?

“Because we focus on brow and lash treatments only, and are constantly re-educating ourselves we are able to really focus developing our skills. Also

“I love that I’ve been able to create a beautiful space for my clients to feel pampered in. I have the most amazing team – it feels like a little brow family and I have big plans to grow!” n

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Ultimate THE

LASH LIFT

COLLAGEN LASH LIFT

GENTLE FORMULATION MEANING NO DAMAGE OR OVER-PROCESSING NOURISHING INGREDIENTS INFUSED WITH COLLAGEN & OATS EASY-TO-MASTER 1 DAY WORLD-CLASS TRAINING HIGH PROFIT SERVICE IN JUST 45 MINUTES (INCLUDING TINTING) LONG LASTING UP TO 8 WEEKS WITH CONSISTENT RESULTS EVERY TIME

CREATED EXCLUSIVELY BY NOUVEAU LASHES, LVL IS A GENTLE AND HYDRATING NATURAL LASH LIFT TREATMENT FORMULATED WITH COLLAGEN.

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PROFILE

SUZIE MCINTOSH Suzie McIntosh launched her own signature salon in 2012 and regularly hosts masterclasses both nationally and internationally to teach the art of brows. Tell us how your love affair with brows all began? “It all started when I was 16 and my mother and sister took me to the salon. I was just fascinated by brow threading and started to teach myself at home! Then I started practicing on friends and it all just kind of happened from there! After high school, I started in the corporate world and would do all of the woman’s brows in the boardroom at the office. I then left the corporate world and start working at a beauty salon in Melbourne before launching Suzie Mcintosh Brows in 2012, then moved into three new salons over the following three years before I found the perfect location in Toorak and settled in there.”

Why do you think eyebrows have become so popular in the past decade? “I think eyebrows have always been popular! But the only thing was back in the 90’s we were pulling all of our hair out that it left people with little to no eyebrow hair, which is why brow services like feathering and microblading have become so popular in the past decade.”

Biggest point of difference from other brow shapers?

“Zendaya! I just love her brows!”

“We have a specific style on how we finish the brow, highlight and shape which gives our work the Suzie Mcintosh signature look. As well as the special level of staining that we do on the skin that gives our brows that little something different to many other talented artists out there.”

What is the most requested eyebrow trend at your salon?

What trend can we expect to see emerging over the next year?

“I’ve found that it was once feathering, but now a lot of clients are requesting more and more Ombré!”

“Over the next year, I think you will see a lot of more natural looking brows when having waxing and sculpting treatments, whereas, with tattooing you will see more woman opting for combinations of feathering and ombre to achieve a brow definition that lasts much longer and causes less damage.”

Any celebrities you would say have the perfect arches?

How do you stay ahead of the game? “Always learn, evolve and move with the trends. Before hosting my own masterclasses here and internationally, I spent years constantly travelling around the world and participating at other artist’s masterclasses and workshops to constantly refine my technique and learn the latest trends.”

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What do you love most about your job as an eyebrow specialist? “There are so many things I love about my job! It still gives me a kick when I work with a new client on redesigning or shaping their brows and seeing them so happy with their appearance and confident in the way they look and feel after their treatment. Having a client, man or woman, exude confidence and be so happy in themselves after a treatment is something I will never tire of!” n

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MAKEUP

MAKE ME OVER … Six makeup artists have been recognised for their exceptional skills at this year’s Face2Face Makeup Awards.

HELD OVER TWO days at Beauty Expo Australia in Sydney, the awards attracted entries in four ‘live’ competition categories and one photographic category. The winners, who received prize packs from Becca Gilmartin, Long Lashes, Inika Organic, Beauty Dazzled, Silk Oil of Morocco, Runway Room, Mii Cosmetics, LashGame, Crown Brush and Christian Faye, were: Pearlin McCarthy – Fashion Editorial: Makeup Designer (entrants created a makeup design for their favourite fashion label’s next season campaign) Pearlin McCarthy – Bridal: My Modern Bride (entrants created a diverse and inclusive representation of a bridal look) Heather Chalker – Body Art: Most Influential Film (entrants created a full body paint inspired by a film that has impacted them) Sara Belobrajdic – Creative Makeup: Instagram Killed the Avant-Garde Star (entrants created ‘instagramable’ makeup representing avant-garde, creative self-expression and experimentation Krista Jade White – Beauty Editorial (pictured top right): Creative Director, (entrants created two beauty images depicting how they would direct the brand’s next beauty campaign as a Creative Director)

The Face2Face Makeup Awards 2019 judging panel included some of Australia’s top makeup artists:

Nita Hirani – People’s Choice (awarded to an artist showing amazing promise)

• • • •

Face2Face Makeup Awards Creative Director Becca Gilmartin said this year’s competition saw a wide spectrum of artists “from makeup trainers to students, professional freelance artists to artists who had never applied makeup on a client before” create impressive work they should all be proud. “The competition floor is always a supportive experience for the artists and boy, did it bring out the best in everyone,” she said. “All that mattered was what was created on the day and 2019 was yet another elevation of talent and imagination.”

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• • • • • • • • •

Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson - MAC Cosmetics pro senior artist Zuleikha Stevens - celebrity hair and makeup artist Isabelle De Vries - multi-award winning makeup artist Meryll Faulkner - four-time winner of the Australian Bridal Award for makeup excellence Penny Antuar - beauty influencer and internationally renowned makeup artist Tanya Guccione - makeup artist and educator Becca Gilmartin - makeup artist and Face2Face Makeup Awards creative director Kylie Eustace - ABIA and AHFA Makeup Artist of the Year finalist Martha Mok - award-winning makeup artist and international trainer Samara Nillson - makeup artist, content creator and educator Bernice Mansfield - makeup artist and hair stylist Alex Pott - fashion and celebrity photographer Michelle Dube - award-winning hair and makeup artist

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SALON VIEW

SILVER ANNIVERSARY

C E L E B R AT I O N Stephanies is celebrating a milestone 25 years in operation. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with owner and founder, Stephanie Shepherd, to chat about growing her successful business from a two-room salon to five luxury day spas and a head office.

How did Stephanies start? “Stephanies Natural Beauty was established in 1994 in Camp Hill Brisbane. Back then I was a sole operator with pure love, determination and passion for my industry and a yearning desire to work for myself after working nine years for other people. Now we have five luxury day spas and a head office facility.”

How many staff? “Across our group we have over 60 employees. I can proudly say we have a large number of people that have been with me over 10 years.”

Design features in the spas? “Stephanies Luxury Spas is a Luxury Collection of Day Spas within south east Queensland, comprising three hotel Spas and two standalone spas. Every one of my spas has a unique feel and feature that is totally unique to each

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destination. Our interiors vary greatly between our spa locations, which I absolutely love. French elegance at Spa Retreat, Sofitel; luxe coastal at Ocean Spa in Noosa; Hamptons-inspired at Vintage Spa Bayside and Urban Spa Bulimba; Swiss chalet escape at Clear Mountain. Ocean Spa has a private suite which contains a mineral flotation pool. The Sofitel showcases our Opal Rasul Steam Temple, an experience of steam

MACHINES STOCKED: • • • • • therapy, cleansing muds and gentle rain showers. Clear Mountain has a stunning luxury couples suite and lounge with a stone bath taking in breathtaking views over the mountain. And Vintage Spa has original interiors of chandeliers, fireplaces and a gorgeous gift shop. Last but not least Spa Bulimba houses a number of individual relaxation zones containing luxe pedicure spaces, tranquil lounges and retail zones.”

Varied micro dermabrasion machines LED Lightstim iBeauty by Thalgo Plabeau by Synergie Skin Galvanic

RETAIL BRANDS STOCKED: • • • • •

Payot Synergie Skin Thalgo Intraceuticals Our own brand La Vie Elixir

How do you keep your staff motivated?

training development program. Plus our product partners also invest their time in providing advanced training opportunities, as an example, Lycon Cosmetics Australia have been providing personalised training to our beauty therapist in the art of waxing for many years. Having this type of support from our suppliers is absolutely integral to Stephanies.”

How has technology influenced the spas?

“All businesses face daily challenges. Human resource, development and management keeps us on our toes. Not to mention being on top of spa operations, cash flow and marketing. I am blessed to have an awesome group of professionals that assist me in keeping our wheels turning.”

“At Stephanies we do not jump onto the latest and greatest skin devices on the market, this is not our focus or ethos. We love and embrace technologies but there needs to be large amounts of evidence-based results and wonderful support from the suppliers and manufacturers providing this tech. There is definitely room for all types of beauty, spas and medispa businesses. To me personally, it’s important to stay in your own lane and provide exceptional results and quality treatments.”

How do you focus on retail in the spas?

Awards you’ve won?

“Retail is a crucial area within our spa locations. We have larges spaces that showcase all our retail partners. Plus an online shop.”

Tell us about education and training?

“Over our spa journey, we have won many business awards locally and internationally. Our latest award win was from 2019 World Luxury Spa Awards, picking up six amazing awards.” n

“Development and continued education is a crucial area for all Stephanies employees. We dedicate a large amount of revenue in delivering a quality

www.stephanies.com.au

“Lots of training and professional development, as well as social gatherings within each location. There are lots of opportunities for staff to win prizes, product incentives and luxe getaways by offering competitions or rewards.”

What are some of the challenges faced by the spas?

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 97

REAL LIFE

THE DOUBLE ACT With a passion for beauty and entreprenural backgrounds, business woman Maria EnnaCocciolone the CEO and founder of INSKINCOSMEDICS and Nicola Quinn, owner of PRO BEAUTY New Zealand – teamed up to launch Ginger&ME – a brand based on the science of Neuro-Cosmetics. Here they chat to Anita Quade about friendship and finding a sisterhood in business together. Checking out Cosmoprof one year you sat over dinner and dreamt up the concept of Ginger & Me. Tell us about that. Maria: “We first met at the Sydney Beauty Expo when Nicola visited the O Cosmedics stand and was keen to distribute O in New Zealand. The first part of our relationship was that of distributor and supplier. The next phase happened while at Cosmoprof Hong Kong. Wearing our distributor hats, Nicola set off each morning in search of a complimenting brand to O with a body focus; by day two she was full of disappointment and said, “ I am never going to find what I want”, to which I replied: “don’t stress, we can always create a new brand together, I have done it before and I can do it again (famous last words right there) … and the rest is history!”

How did you come up with the name? M: “Finding a name appeared to be impossible, everything we came up with was taken. One day I was shopping in Sass & Bide and thought, ‘how can we use our names as a brand name, pretty strong chance they won’t be taken or challenged”? She called Nicola who suggested “why don’t we use our nicknames? ”and that’s what we did. Nicola grew up known as Ginger thanks to her gorgeous hair colour and I used my initials ME (maiden name) and that’s how GINGER & ME was born.”

You both have extensive beauty backgrounds – what did you each bring to the table in the development of the product? N: “My hands-on beauty experience is still current and having an operating spa gave us the opportunity to live test our products and concepts from a germ of an idea through to completion.”

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M: “I had developed O Cosmedics by this time and was experienced in the brand-formulation-packaging creation, so it’s fair to say between us we had all areas well and truly covered.”

What was the goal behind launching the brand? N: “Initially it was to have a decadent body range and a face range that was cosmedical but not as active as O and with a more luxurious (French) feel; for those skins that were not already using actives, needing to be eased into professional skin care. The concept of the brand evolved as our personal lives took some rollercoaster turns. My mum was diagnosed with cancer and Maria’s dad with dementia. As professional women who already had a fulltime job, mums and wives, our roles of daughters heightened to care for our ailing parents and support the other parent. We gave each other strength, through words of encouragement and in the exchanging of tears we realised our crazy lives represented those of many women, juggling many balls and wearing many hats. Through our challenges the BE BRAVE, BE GRATEFUL, BE HAPPY body emotions were created and soon after the mindfulness professional facial treatments with a core focus of “the power to choose your tude” came to life.”

What is the power to choose your tude? M: “In our DNA we both have a positive attitude and are driven, understanding that every day is not going to be awesome but that you can always find awesomeness if you look hard enough in every day. Hence a core message in our brand’s mindfulness treatments is we each have the power to choose your “tude”. Your attiTUDE, the way you do life. Your altiTUDE, what you get out of life. Your gratiTUDE, how you acknowledge the blessings of life And your beautyTUDE the way you show up to life.

The concept is that it is based on the science of Neuro-Cosmetics – tell us what this is? M: “Neuro-Cosmetics is a cutting edge, anti-aging technology that

the range and since its introduction our homecare has doubled given, we now have something for everyone.”

works on neurological stimulation, to elicit feel good actives that prolong cell life and balance inflammatory responses. Essentially, we are working on Neuro-Ageing; preserving critical cell-to-cell communication of the cells and more specifically fibroblasts to support collagen synthesis. Neuro-Cosmedics with a D is next level, a range with the right percentage of actives to fight ageing and preserve skin youth.”

How difficult is it Maria juggling two skincare brands? M: “For me who has created both ranges it’s not difficult at all, but

Describe your client base? N: “When it comes to age, GINGER&ME believes age is an attitude

my dog and husband. Outside of that I’d have to say I’m currently working on the “down time” aspect and improving the quality of this time shortly.” M: “Friends and family. When I am not at work, I am with them enjoying life, different foods, great wine, weekends away, holidays, movies and reading.

and so we hesitate to put a number on a demographic. The brand has been created to support skin health and skin youth, you are never too young or too old to want both.”

What has the feedback been like? N: “Incredible. Whilst it’s only a small line it has been created to fill a gap and certain objectives including innovative, multi-functional, less chance of a response, affordable and luxurious. Our partners see how well it compliments O Cosmedics and those without O appreciate the brand as leading edge science, effective and better than any cosmetic in the marketplace.”

Nicola do you stock this brand in your spa? N: “Absolutely! The Spa was a critical reference point when creating

I see that it can sometimes be for my team and some partners too. It seems to be harder for them to keep each range independent, with its own unique image, personality and offer.”

What do you do for down time? N: “I love to go for walks around Hagley park in Christchurch with

What are the plans for the brand? N: “We plan to add some amazing retail products for home care and extend the professional treatment offer.”

Biggest lesson you learnt? N: “Take the time to get it right.” M: “As an owner and creator of two brands stay true to each brand’s essence and purpose – don’t let anyone roll them into one and the same.” n

FACE FACTS

– A Business Loan Would Help Many salons owners are looking to expand their services and are looking for a cash injection. Jennet Cunnington reveals the seven steps towards a successful application. OF COURSE, I may be wrong, but my guess is that you are well trained, worldly, modern, tech savvy, user of social media and run a sound spa / salon (or similar). I also may guess that you might like to employ additional staff or perhaps introduce a new range of skin care / make-up for both professional use and retailing to your clients. Maybe an upgrade of equipment is on your wish list or the salon is looking a bit shabby and could use a refurb. This is called business growth. A third assumption is that applying for a loan to help pay for your planned business needs, can sound a bit difficult, even daunting. So now I am going to ask the question. How do you fund your business growth? • Family and / or friends • Personal savings • Credit Card • Creditors • Suppliers • Bank loan • Other lender Welcome to the world of the SME (Small to Medium Enterprise). Small or large, when you own and operate your own salon / spa you must start sharing your therapy skills with those of business responsibilities. In most instances, balancing the finances tops the list. Business Growth. Not everyone has ambitions to build an empire perhaps, but unless your business is moving forwards, then in reality, it is going backwards. Business growth (bit like a child!) often happens in bursts, meaning that it has a steady run and then suddenly increases and steadies at a new level. This growth requires funding and often relatively quickly. For example it may mean employing more staff, increasing inventory or purchasing another piece of equipment. This additional need for funds can create stresses for the business begging the question “where will I find the money” This article is about “getting a loan” for your business to help its growth path. Financial support by way of a loan or injection of funds is usually necessary to help achieve this growth. Most salons reach a stage where they ‘nearly need an extra pair

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of hands’ or ‘nearly need additional cubicles’ or ‘really would like to introduce a special range of products.’ These scenarios are exactly the times when salons could use financial support. So, to assist the process let’s discuss seven very important ‘to do’ items that will accelerate a loan application and help lead to a more successful outcome. Though this article is written around the beauty salon/spa, if you are a wholesaler or importer of cosmetics/ salon furniture etc. the same following seven check points apply. A lender may require further information if you are importing / or exporting. Many of you, I am sure, will be familiar with and already actioning some or all these seven but putting them altogether provides a kind of business health check, which is invaluable in itself. One very important factor first to bear in mind is that your financier will want to know that your business is able to afford the loan repayments. This is known as responsible lending and is based on accurate and current financial and business information provided.

SEVEN STEPS TOWARDS A SUCCESSFUL APPLICATION

1 Your Business Structure

This is a generally a straightforward piece of information, but a lender will need to know under what structure your business operates. This could be: • Sole Trader • Partnership • Company with one Director • Company with two or more Directors • Family Trust Make sure you have your ACN and ABN at hand. Have details of Business Registration / Trading name

2 Understand the basics of financial information Running a business means getting your head around the financials. If you are borrowing money, the lender will expect you to have a fundamental grasp of accounting terms and reports. • Use a qualified, professional accountant. Ask the questions about items that are not clear to you. It is very important to have a good grasp of the financial position of your business at all times. • Understand the Profit / Loss (P/L) and what it tells you about your business income / expenditure. • Understand the Balance Sheet and the information it gives of the business assets and liabilities. • Have a clear understanding of all the compliance issues such as GST, PAYG including the dates these need to be paid. • Take note of the accounting for Gift Vouchers (Certificates). The Beauty Industry is a heavy retailer of such. Gift Vouchers are considered a liability until they are redeemed and must show in the balance sheet. Get some help with this if need be. • Work with a cash flow statement – more of this further in the article

BUSINESS

3 Keep your financial information up to date

6 Write a Business Plan

When applying for a loan, you will be asked for current financial information plus historical information (i.e.: trading history of previous 2 years). In most instances it is necessary to have an accounting package that is uploaded to the Lender. If your accounting package has the facility to connect with your bank, then do this as this will keep your cash position up to date in your accounts. If accounts are maintained manually and an accountant then puts together the figures, he/ she will need to provide these in electronic form. At this point I would stress that the Lender has READ ONLY access and cannot alter any entries. I would also like to make clear that a Lender is not there to ‘pick over’ your business, but obviously needs financial accounts to assess the affordability of a loan. It is all very well to have an Accounting Package but another to keep it updated. It is recommended that entries be done on a weekly basis. This way the business data is always current. The third point in this section is to ensure that ALL information is recorded. Every single item of both income and expenses. A Lender cannot assess a loan on any other basis than the information contained in the financial information. To give an example, let’s say you have run out of tissues / cotton wool and it is easier to go across to the supermarket for emergency stocks. If you use some money from the cash register, then be sure to put the receipt in and record the expense when entering daily figures. It is preferable not to use cash in this way, draw petty cash and spend from it, keeping a running balance.

Another item a lender might ask to see is a Business Plan. I know what you are thinking, something else to do! You already have a business plan, but it’s more likely than not in your head. It is not necessary for it to be a lengthy document; one page is quite enough and keep it factual but it should include: • A brief explanation of your business This ensures that the lender knows what you do. Not everyone understands the beauty industry, it still gets lumped in with hairdressers. • A brief CV of the Business Owner and any key staff This will give professional credibility to those working in the business. It will confirm the skills and training undertaken, experience and knowledge of the industry. Consider a link to your web-site or Linked – In profile • What has been its achievements As examples: How has annual turnover increased or how have staff numbers changed over time. • What are your future business plans For instance, a move to larger premises, build more treatment rooms or add spa services. • What do you need a loan for. Explain the specific purpose for this loan such as an upgrade and /or new equipment, increase inventory, refurbish the salon. • Projected income /expenditure This allows the lender to understand your financial forecasts and the methods of funding most suitable to your business • Marketing and Advertising Plans Include budgets for these and some explanation of the methods you select to use. E.g. Social Media, Emails, newspapers, flyers. • Any other information relevant or you think would be important to include. This includes the salon point of difference, unique position, market differentiation.

4 Maintain an Inventory System Inventory (stock) is money in a different form and therefore considered an asset. A Lender, reviewing a business’s financials, will need a stock valuation to be of reasonable accuracy. It is often quite a surprise to realize the dollar value of professional use products sitting on trolleys and in wax pots! Good retailing in the salon is highly profitable and therefore regulated levels of stock are essential. Most salons, no doubt, use the POS system to incorporate inventory control which is a preferred method. If a manual system is used that is OK but keep a stock book, count and record all stock movements monthly. A twiceyearly stock take will help to maintain a reasonably accurate valuation. Finally, it is important to understand the terms: a. Cost of Goods Sold (COGS) b. Stock turns c. SKU’s (Stock Keeping Units / Shop Keeping Units)

5 Keep a Cash Flow Statement For your business purposes maintaining a cash flow statement is one of the most valuable tools you can have at your fingertips. When you wish to apply for a loan this cash flow statement can be as equally valuable to the lender. What is a cash flow statement? Cash Flow is the “inflow” of cash when it is deposited in the bank and “outflow’ when cash is used to pay expenses. It is the TIMING of the ins / outs that is so important in cash flow management. Analysis of the Cash flow is used to estimate the business needs, available cash and financial stress points at any given time. Setting up a projected cash flow for a 12-month period highlights the times when you may be cash rich (say December) and cash poor (possibly February). Immediately it will be clear how paying off a loan affects your cash position. If you do not use a cash flow statement I can only recommend that you do and if need be, ask for help setting it up. Remember though it must be maintained.

7 The appointment with the financier / lender Most applications, documentation and information will be done on-line. Your identification is done by modern methods, in fact so much is made simpler and for the therapist most of the on-line processes can easily be done around salon appointments, after work, on the phone. n

Jennet Cunnington is the Director SME Cash Pty Ltd. www.smecash.com.au

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY | 101

CELEBRITY

JESSICA HART’S NATURAL BEAUTY Australian supermodel and former Victoria’s Secret model Jessica Hart sits down with Anita Quade to reveal the inspiration behind her Australian made, naturally sourced beauty line – LUMA. our key ingredient crushed pearl powder in Australia as the formulation wasn’t quite right so we found a manufacturer in Italy who had perfected the crushed pearl formulation.”

Were you involved heavily in the formulations? Any lesson you learnt? Tell us why you originally launched Luma in 2014? “There was a huge gap in the market at the time for affordable, naturally made beauty products. Most makeup companies were telling us to conceal our features rather than enhance them. I am a big fan of natural beauty and skincare so launching LUMA became a passion project of mine.”

How important was it to have an Australian Made product to release into the market? “It was important to me as Australia has such a great reputation in the beauty industry for our ingredients and formulations. Manufacturers in Australia really listen to what you are trying to create – that’s so important to me. Plus I’m Aussie so it’s great to have a beauty brand that embraces and epitomises my homeland.”

Can you tell us any challenges? “Where do I start! There have been so many. I have learnt a lot along the way; trust your gut instinct and listen to yourself. So many people will tell you their opinions but you have to remember why you started in the first place.”

How hard is it to source Australian ingredients? “It’s not hard at all. Most of our ingredients are sourced in Australia. Though we did have trouble finding

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“Lots of lessons! One important lesson for me is not to lose sight of what you were originally trying to create. You can get so caught up in the development process.”

What was one of the most important parts of the product development process? “Getting the formulation and textures exactly how I wanted them. The right texture is imperative! It can take up to year to perfect a formulation – if it isn’t right then you need to start all over again.”

What are your favourite products? “Liquid Light Illuminating Highlighter and Lip and Cheek Tint in Muse.”

An item you can’t live without? “Oh that’s a hard one! I’d say my Lip and Cheek Tint in Muse as it’s a great multi-tasking product.”

You relaunched LUMA 2 years ago – tell us about that and what has the reaction been like to new products and packaging? “The reaction has been incredible. From industry insiders to our consumer, it has all been really positive. Yes there are still a few things that I would like to change but I’m so proud of what we have created. Watch this space!”

What are your plans for expansion? “We are now also stocked in Germany, USA , South Africa and Singapore.” n

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BUSINESS

What makes a successful

SALON OWNER? Being a business owner is hard work. Lisa Conway looks at patience versus persistence to succeed as an entrepreneur.

IN BUSINESS YOU need to be many things. It’s a tough gig. I think every one of us has been surprised at some time or other about how challenging business ownership actually is. I don’t know about you, but I truly hadn’t a clue what I signed up for when I opted to have a go at owning a salon. I’ve learned a lot along the way about what works, what doesn’t and what attributes help salon owners succeed. To thrive in any business, you’ll need a mix of both patience and persistence. But for my money, persistence is more important than patience. Let me explain why. Patience is one of those qualities we all seem to admire in others. It’s often said, ‘they have the patience of a saint’. Well, saints are dead and so it’s not actually a fair comparison. Time stands still for saints – they don’t have to keep showing up and doing exceptional things. Salon owners, on the other hand, are a lively lot. For the most part you’re busy-bees screaming out for more time. You know what you want to get done, but you struggle with finding the time to get it all done.

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There are big expectations on your shoulders that you’ll keep showing up, day in day out, to build a quality team, business and client base. But, because you’re time-poor, you often react to situations rather than respond with a well thought out plan. The difference is huge. You end up slapping bandaids on your problems and we all know bandaids fall off soon enough. That’s where persistence comes in. Having another think, taking another shot at the problem. Going back again and again and tackling the problem with real solutions means that, by default, you’ll eventually fix it … and fix it once and for all. That’s why, in my book, persistence wins every time. Too much patience can see you waiting around for things to be different. As if some magic salon fairy is going to flitter in and save the day for you. Team members can be a classic example of this. Many salon owners are over-patient with team members’ capacity to skill-up. You already know in your heart that she’ll never ‘get it’ yet you

TOO MUCH PATIENCE CAN SEE YOU WAITING AROUND FOR THINGS TO BE DIFFERENT. AS IF SOME MAGIC FAIRY IS GOING TO FLITTER IN AND SAVE THE DAY FOR YOU. wait patiently, hopefully for it to happen. That over-patience is costing you clients when what you really need to do is persist like crazy with training and education. I remember an elderly gentleman called Kirk, a businessman in the truest sense. Kirk had travelled the world, buying and selling properties like it was a Monopoly game. I was always in awe of his wisdom and finally got the courage to ask him for his best piece of business advice – a single word to keep me on track. Without hesitation he said ‘persistence’ and went on to explain why. Look at former prime minister, John Howard. Nothing outstanding about that man, but he was, if nothing else, a persistent little fellow. Rain, hail or shine, he walked every morning. The media often hounded him for an answer and he never gave one. He had the same consistency in office. He persevered like no one else. Never a panic if the polls said he was or wasn’t popular. He just got on with the task at hand. Apart from Sir Robert Menzies, who took the country through war times, John Howard was Australia’s longest serving prime minister. The same learnings apply in business, and especially in our industry. It’s tempting to employ the often high maintenance rock stars who constantly require their egos stroked when what you really need is ordinary folk who’ll persevere when times are tough. Rock stars might be fine when the going’s cruisy, but when things go wrong, when they’re under the pump, they inevitably stuff up. Then give up. You and your team need to stick with problems longer and respond with a well thought out solution. You need to solve the problem, fix it once and for all. Put a system in place that everyone understands, then tweak it if needed until it’s perfect. With a tweak and perseverance, many great ideas will pay off. Your marketing campaign is a perfect example. Just because it didn’t have your phone ringing off the hook, you might decide it’s not working and give up. But perhaps it just needs a tweak. Maybe create a sense of scarcity or urgency (first five callers only?) or perhaps a simpler offer that’s easily understood. What it needs is for you to persevere with it. All too often you throw your ideas out too early. Figuratively, you throw the baby out with the bath water. It’s a much smarter approach to keep the baby and pour a fresh bath. Kirk was right and I’ve thought of him often when the going gets tough. And let’s face it, from time-to-time, things get tough in every salon business. What’s my go-to approach? I pull on my persistence boots and keep going. Business is definitely a game for grown-ups. If you weren’t a grown-up when you bought or set up your salon, you soon will be. Owning a salon is for the most part a joy, a challenging joy but a joy all the same – you just need to persist long enough to start experiencing the joy. n Lisa Conway is a business coach and author of Your Salon Team: the salon owners guide to finding, motivating and keeping great staff. www.thezingproject.com.au

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INTERIORS

LUNA LASH AND BODY

Designing a Home-Based Salon With a rise of ‘Home Salons’ becoming a trend within the salon industry, Lisa Feleppa reveals what we need to know when it comes to designing your salon space. INVITING CLIENTS INTO your home can be a bit daunting, however therapists are now becoming their own boss and creating a space that truly reflects their sense of style and offering treatments conveniently suited to their expertise. Tiphanie Frazer, owner of Luna Lash and Body, wanted to create a space using her first level of her home. A glamorous home-based salon with an earthy atmosphere in the heart of Maitland, New South Wales, the salon interior is clean crisp white, contrasting black and marble details with hanging greenery.

Tell us how you went about designing your salon space. “My salon style was to feel glamorous but with an earthy atmosphere. I was searching for the perfect front desk to set the scene of my salon space. I had something in mind and wasn’t having any luck, until I came across Comfortel and fell in love with the ‘Maverick’ reception desk. Not only did Comfortel have exactly what I was looking for, but they also gave me inspiration with some of their other furniture pieces and beautiful designs.”

What are the furniture & equipment you needed to set up shop? With nine year’s experience as a beauty therapist, her aim for the space was to be a wow factor, looked professional and although part of her home, still remained separate. “I followed my dreams and opened my very own salon space. I wanted the space to be a sanctuary, filled with good vibes to switch off from the outside world. I believe in a holistic approach to beauty therapy, so my goal was to achieve wellness inside and out, from my salon interior to my treatments I offer.”

How did you achieve your design style for your salon? “I based the interior design around neutral colours, clean crisp white paint, black and marble touches and hanging greenery. I would say that I have an eye for detail and wanted to follow that through to make sure the look and feel when you walk through the doors to my salon reflected my work and my brand.

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“The furniture I needed to start my business was the essential electric bed for all my treatments, a reception desk and black square shelves for storage. Equipment included a Microdermabrasion Machine, Oxy Oasis machine, a trolley for all essentials and a Magnifying lamp. I purchased my waiting sofa from a local furniture store and had custom built the retail and treatment room storage.”

Any tips for therapists who are thinking of starting out on your own… “My advice would be to figure out your ‘brand’ then style your salon and treatments around that. Become an expert in what you do, once you become valuable to your clients then success will follow! Also if you decide to start your beauty business from home I think it’s important to separate the home from the public, so a separate entrance and separate bathroom is a big bonus. It becomes easier to switch off from work so you can have a balanced lifestyle.” n

Tiphanie Frazer is the owner of Luna Lash & Body www.lunalashandbody.com Salon Furniture: Comfortel Furniture Instagram - @lunalashandbody Photographer: G-code Digital

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STOP FEARING CANCELLATION FEES Are you tired of the serial no-show and the last minute canceller that can cripple a business and cost huge amounts of money? Lilliane Caron takes a look at steps to put in place. MOST OF US have probably got a cancellation policy in place in some way or another, but we’re too afraid we’ll rub our clients the wrong way if we enforce it. But times are changing. Clients expect to be charged a cancellation fee from laser clinics, hairdressers and injectables clinics – it’s time to make it common practice for waxing salons too! Over the last two years we have successfully implemented a cancellation procedure at our flagship salon Smooth & Tan. You might wonder why it’s taken me this long, when I’ve been in business for over 40 years: it’s because a lot of my clients have been with me from the beginning. I have been struggling to implement the cancellation policy with our most loyal clients, and I know many of you can relate to that. But I believe we have found a way. It wasn’t always easy, and we’ve had to fine tune our procedure as we went, but we got there! It has helped us minimise the number of no-shows and cancellations and 95% of all cancellations and rescheduled appointments are now done at least 24 hours in advance.

First things first – the actual Cancellation Policy A cancellation policy is a tool that protects you from losing money when clients change or cancel their appointment last minute – or worse; don’t show up at all. The policy has two main goals: 1. Deterring people from making last minute changes and 2. Covering staff wages and other costs if it does happen. It should be clear that it’s not a tool to make money. Keep the policy simple and fair: if a client cancels or changes their appointment with less than 24 hours’ notice, a cancellation fee is charged for 50% of the service cost, but never more than $100. Make sure all staff are educated so they are aware of the policy and repeat the same conditions to the clients. If you want to implement a cancellation policy effectively, everyone and everything in your salon needs to be consistent and tell the same story.

Giving people the opportunity to cancel or reschedule on time More than anything, our success comes from putting systems in place to PREVENT last-minute changes. Actually enforcing the cancellation policy is a final measure to fall back on if all else has failed. After all; positive reinforcement works better than negative! The absolute best tip I can give you when it comes to this issue is to set up a reminder-SMS that is sent out 48 hours prior to the appointment. The SMS should state your business name, the date + time of the appointment and a request to confirm the appointment. Most clients reply to the text immediately, but if they don’t, we follow it up with a phone call on the same day. We regularly get feedback from our clients that they appreciate the reminder very much!

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Discouraging people from cancelling at late notice Another incredibly helpful way to minimise last-minute changes and no-shows is simply to encourage people to pre-pay their appointments. At our salon, clients receive a 10% discount when they pre-pay their appointment. It’s a standard question our receptionist asks with every booking: “Would you like to pre-pay this appointment to receive a 10% discount?”. Most people love this easy way to save some money and take the offer. If you find it hard to ask your clients to pre-pay the full amount, a great alternative is to ask for a $50 deposit on appointments over $100. Or, if you don’t feel comfortable taking any payment up front, you can always ask them to walk in when they want and let them know you’ll do your best to fit them in at that time. Remember, you only need to do this with people that have proven to cancel last minute in the past.

Now for the hard part: enforcing the actual policy So far, everything is relatively easy; clients are happy that they get a discount, they appreciate that you offer the ease of online booking, even the added service of reminding them of their appointment is valued. To keep this positive vibe going, we don’t

Point 3 - Enforce: if the client still cancels last

Point 1 - Inform: a client rings to say they won’t be able to make it to their

It can be difficult to handle conversations like these well; it’s very important to always keep your tone pleasant and to turn it into a positive where possible. Be understanding, be friendly, and let them know that unfortunately, you have to charge them the fee. If you feel your junior therapists aren’t fit to deal with these phone calls, they should only be handled by the manager or by a senior staff member that can read between the lines and trust their intuition. n

appointment today. You bring up their details and you see that this is the first time they have cancelled last minute since you’ve implemented your new policy. You kindly inform your client that a last minute cancellation usually results in a cancellation fee of 50% of their appointment, but that you’ll waive that for now. Make sure to make a note in the client’s account details so that your staff are aware that this client has been informed of the cancellation policy.

Point 2 - Remind: the next time this client rings to cancel or reschedule last

minute, you’ve given them fair warning of the cancellation fee and you can charge them accordingly. By now they will have pre-paid their appointment and they will only receive a 50% refund if they cancel. We’ve found that clients are usually very understanding, but it’s always important to gauge the situation – after all, you don’t want to lose a good client!

Be prepared

minute, you bring up their details and you remind them of the cancellation fee. Tell them that you’ll waive it for now, but that they need to pre-pay or book online from now on. Make another note in the client’s account so all staff know they’ve been reminded of the policy and that they need to prepay their appointments going forward.

Lilliane Caron is the founder and director of Caronlab Australia. www.caronlab.com.au

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recommend strictly enforcing the cancellation policy with every client that cancels late. It’s better to ease into it with proper, consistent communication. It helps to pinpoint clients that have cancelled last minute or haven’t shown up in the past. In most client management systems, a pop up or note can be added to these client’s accounts. This way, when the client contacts the salon, every staff member immediately knows what information has been given to the client and how lenient to be with them. We enforce our cancellation policy with a 3-point procedure. You know your clientele best, so please use your own best judgement when enforcing the cancellation policy at your salon.

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HOW I GOT HERE: TINA COPLAND Founder Jax Wax Tell us what inspired you to launch Jax Wax Australia? “Jax Wax was started when my husband and I decided that we no longer wanted to be just employees after returning from living in the USA. When we got back to Australia, we had no current job, so the decision was relatively easy to make. With more than 20 years’ experience working with wax the natural choice was a wax business. The business was named in 2 parts – Jax after our son Jack and wax as that is what the business is. Apart from wax for the beauty industry we also manufacture waxes for other industries The brand Jax Wax Australia was chosen after our original trademark Adam & Eve was not allowed in Europe. This allowed us to focus on a name that more represented who we are, where we are located and what we stood for.”

I THINK I WAS THREE WHEN I BORROWED MY MUM’S LIPSTICK AND I’VE NEVER LOOKED BACK. Have you always had an interest in the beauty industry? What inspired this? “Yes, I think I was three when I started to “borrow” my mother’s lipstick and never looked back. One of my first jobs was working for a contract manufacturer in the cosmetic and toiletry industry.”

How have you seen the industry change over the past decade? “I have noticed a lot more interest in alternative, natural, organic and vegan products which has been brought about by greater social awareness from consumers. People are now considering how their purchase impacts the planet. There are also more machines for an ever-expanding myriad of beauty treatments. Consumers are asking more questions and are better educated on products and procedures. They want and expect genuine visible results without all the marketing hype.”

What are some of the major trends you can predict this year? “I wish I knew but I don’t have a crystal ball! But what I have noticed when I was at Cosmoprof in Italy is there was a considerable number of “passive” exercise machines the customer sat inside that were supposed to remove weight. I also saw mirrors that evaluate the customers skin and could be used to program a regime of products. There were also a lot

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of new machines for removing pigmentation and blemishes. Naturally there was plenty of skin care products and many brands incorporating high tech ingredients and there was also a notable increase of vegan and natural type products on previous years. Lashes appear to be the replacement for nails at expos in previous years.”

The waxing industry is extremely competitive – how has laser affected the waxing business? “I would not be honest if I was to say that there had been no impact from laser. In Australia there are plenty of laser clinics, although I would like to see more regulation and education for this. Too many horror stories of untrained operators using substandard equipment leaving customers with injuries. This is not necessarily the same in other countries where the regulations are stricter and there are more controls on who can operate laser machinery. Not everyone can be treated by laser and I believe that there will always be a market for other hair removal methods.”

What are some of the best tips that you can offer businesses to boost revenue? “Upsell! It’s about applying the McDonalds training philosophy of “would you like fries with that”. Sell after care products, implement an incentive program to get customers to rebook before they leave. Offer an extraordinary service and make the customer feel truly valued so that they will spread the word about your business. Get known in your area as “the” place to get a treatment. People come to a salon to escape the everyday and have a bit of “me” time, so make it special for them.”

Tell us your most memorable awards moment during your career? “Applying for my first job that advertised for a male applicant (that shows how old I am) and getting the job. I went onto become General Manager and part owner of the company. Proving that women can and do achieve anything they put their minds to. These days I get involved in mentoring and am particularly happy to help young women think outside the traditional square if I can. There are so many career achievements however the one which stands out is being a finalist in the Telstra Business Awards. Applying for this national award really made me think about what we had done and how we got to where we are. Another moment is when I meet people around the world who use our product, it is very humbling to find such enthusiasm for a product we create here in Australia.”

CAREER

to care about all the people that we deal with – staff, customers and suppliers. Industry regulations also continually change. As a business owner I need to make sure that we are up to date on our OHS and employment responsibilities as well as our and overall legal obligations. Exporting into so many countries just adds to the challenges.”

What is your favourite part of the job? “There are many parts of my job that I enjoy. Solving challenges, mentoring staff, nurturing ability and meeting customers. I try to show that level of trust to my staff so they can also grow.”

Are there any challenges/downsides? “Running a small business is continual hard work. When we first started Jax Wax, we did not have enough money to afford staff, equipment and advertising; there so many challenges just to even stay afloat. It wasn’t until we had been operating for three years that it dawned on me that we were actually going to earn a living out of the business and that made all the hard work worthwhile. I guess most business owners would have the same issues that we have, juggling work and family commitments. Like so many working mothers I still feel guilty about the lack of time I spent with my son Jack. He jokingly says I have 2 children; him and Jax Wax, and he was not the favourite.”

How hard was it to manage the business when it grew? “As the business grows there are other challenges we face. Managing a growing team but still remaining family friendly and being able

How is it working with your partner Geoff? “We have worked together for about 30 years and so far, we still manage to stay married. I love working with my husband however we both have very different roles within our business. Sometimes it’s a bit tricky as technically I am in charge – but don’t push that too much. The downside would be that we are never away from work, so it is sometimes hard to let go and have a break. Even when we take holidays there are always work issues and ideas to discuss. Geoff always has my back and really understands the issues that we face in running a business and I think that working together has made us stronger – I would not change it for the world.” n

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TECHNOLOGY

THE SLIMMING EFFECT The latest device taking the technology world by storm is EmSlim. Mike Matkovcik reveals the lowdown on the latest advancement that is winning over clients and Hollywood celebrities.

CAN YOU IMAGINE doing 20,000 situps or squats in 30 minutes? Well now there is new technology which is taking the world by storm. It’s called EmSlim. This revolutionary technology can help your clients achieve a six pack and buns of steel, and is unlike any other device in the market place today.

What is EmSlim? “It’s the most recent device to join the family of non-invasive, fat-reduction, and body contouring treatments and MM Beauty Equipment are bringing this to the aesthetic and medical industries. This is a game changer in body shaping and is taking the global market by storm. Thanks to its Korean Patented water cooled handles EMSLIM has no consumables and produces 7 Tesla maximal magnetic output making it the most potent equipment in its class.”

What sets this apart from other devices? “It’s the most advanced and intensive electric muscle stimulator. Focused electromagnetic field passes through all skin and fat in order to effectively stimulate the muscle, providing the most intensive continuous contractions which is ideal for muscle growth, and also inducing apoptosis. Also the treatment session requires no anaesthesia, incisions, or discomfort. In fact, patients are able to sit back and relax, while the device performs the equivalent of more than 20,000 painless crunches or squats.

How does it work? “Just like working out, the stimulation causes it to rebuild and repair muscle tissue, resulting in stronger, firmer muscles. The patients feel the same soreness after EMSLIM as you would after a high intensity workout. HI-EMT(High-Intensity Electromagnetic Muscle Trainer) is the medical technology that is used in aesthetic medicine. It uses focused electro-

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AT A GLANCE:

EFFECTS ON MUSCLE

Recent studies reported that on average 15% - 16% increase in abdominal muscle thickness was observed in treated patients one to two months after HI-EMT treatments.

EFFECTS ON FAT

Several recent studies using CT, MRI and ultrasound evaluations have reported approximately 19% reduction in subcutaneous fat layer in patients treated by HI-EMT based device on their abdomen. Patients that undergo the treatment are usually women between 30 and 70 years of age. Because of its muscle tightening properties, it is an especially popular treatment for women after the pregnancy. Also great for athletes, body builders, and those that can’t exercise to keep muscles in shape. The HI-EMT uses a specific range of frequencies that does not allow muscle relaxation between two consecutive stimulations.. magnetic field with safe intensity level. Electro-magnetic field passes noninvasively through the body and interacts with motor neurons which subsequently trigger supramaximal muscle contractions. Non-invasive medical technology that is used for strengthening and re-education of muscles via interaction of the magnetic field with the tissue of the patient. Single treatment session takes 30 minutes only, and there is no downtime.

Who is it for? “Patients that undergo the treatment are usually women between 30 and 70 years of age. Because of its muscle tightening properties, it is an especially popular treatment for women after the pregnancy. Also great for athletes, body builders, and those that can’t exercise to keep muscles in shape.

How often are treatments needed? For maximum results, it is recommended that patients undergo treatments twice a week for two weeks, for a total of four sessions. The results will be fully visible 4-8 weeks after the final appointment. Afterward, one treatment in three to six months is required to maintain the results.” n Mike Matkovcik is the managing director of MM Beauty Equipment. www.beautyequipment.com.au

FAT FREEZING AND BODY SCULPTING CLATUU Alpha delivers a knock-out blow to stubborn fat deposits. The machine’s precise 360° surround cooling achieves maximum coverage of the treatment area and is up to one third faster than other fat-freezing treatments. Cryomed Aesthetics 1300 346 448

enCurve by Lutronic is a state of the art body contouring technology that uses apoptosis-inducing radio frequency to effectively target and eliminate fat cells. The enCurve is designed to easily treat the entire abdomen and waistline simultaneously for more natural results and full coverage as well as treat the thighs and arms. It is a non-invasive and non-contact RF treatment with little to no discomfort and no downtime for the patient. Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011 Onda Coolwaves Fat and Cellulite Reduction uses energy targeted exactly where it is needed to reduce fat, cellulite and tighten skin. This is because the frequency of the Coolwaves energy is less absorbed by water, a major component of skin. The ONDA Coolwaves largely bypass the skin and are preferentially absorbed in the fat and connective tissue, thus delivering an effective treatment while maximising comfort. High Tech Medical 1300 309 233

ZWave Pro is FDA and TGA listed radial pulse technology that delivers acoustic shockwaves to reduce the appearance of cellulite. The Z Wave Pro can also be used with a variety of non-invasive body contouring procedures such laser lipolysis, cryolippolisis, RF or ultrasound for improved clearance of destroy fat cells, increasing lymphatic drainage to deliver optimal results. Cynosure 02 9484 4546

BodySculptor exCell+ is an all-in-one device which combines slimming and well-being. The device combines the effectiveness of the BioStimology® with the benefits of body drainage by micropressure. Consisting of two boots and four inductive straps covering the entire body, BodySculptor exCell+ provides a pain-free and effective treatment for the reduction of the waistline and overall body silhouette. True Solutions International 1800 808 993

Venus Legacy is a highly advanced, non-invasive medical device that effectively provides non-surgical body contouring, cellulite reduction, skin tightening, and wrinkle reduction for both face and body. Treatments are comfortable with no downtime and safe for all skin types. Venus Concept 0423 505 931

EM Slim not only burns fat, but also builds muscle. It uses cutting-edge technology is a non-invasive way to achieve a toned and healthy physique. patients are able to sit back and relax, while the device performs the equivalent of more than 20,000 painless crunches or squats. MM Beauty Equipment 07 5577 988

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7 reasons

TO FORMALISE YOUR CLIENT CONSULTATIONS

Comprehensive client consultations help you to understand their goals and expectations and gives them more insight as to what they can expect from this and future appointments. Alyssa McArley reveals how to formalise the process.

FORMALISING YOUR CONSULTATION process using forms can help you and your client’s get even more out of this vital part of a client visit. It’s not about using forms to replace personal interaction with your clients, it’s about giving every client a consistent experience. Sometimes it’s appropriate to leave clients to complete forms themselves, but you don’t want it to feel impersonal. Where appropriate, sit down with your clients as you usually would, using paper or electronic forms as a tool to guide your consultation. You may discuss the questions and complete the form on your client’s behalf or support them as they complete it themselves.

Get to know your new clients One of the most fundamental forms you can use is a new client form. Of course, you’ll be collecting client contact information on a client’s first visit, but you can also use this as a tool to help better serve their needs by getting to know their preferences, goals, lifestyle, appetite for change and how much advice they are looking for. You could even ask about their preference for conversation or quiet time during their visit. Software that allows your client to securely enter their information and automatically updates their client card makes it easy to store, update and access the information. It’s worth checking in with returning clients too, to ensure the information you have is all up to date.

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Record consent Some treatments will require you to obtain consent before you can complete the appointment. Protect your business from legal liability by implementing a standardised consultation process to ensure all required discussion and signatures are completed before treatment begins. Going through this process is important for your business and also helps with building a relationship of trust with your client. It shows them that you are an expert at what you do and that you’re considering all of their individual needs. If you use electronic forms you’ll be able to obtain a digital signature from your client, confirming that they understand the process and any risks involved in their treatment.

Collect and securely store important information Discussing and capturing your client’s medical and treatment history can also be important. Utilising a medical history form ensures you accurately and consistently collect this information, reducing the risk of missing something relevant. This is important, sensitive information so storing it in your software system can give you and your clients peace of mind that it is secure and safe.

Facilitate a treatment plan The main goal of your client consultation is to better understand your client’s history and goals so that you can create a treatment plan, whether for a single appointment or a series of appointments. Using a form to record your recommended plan enables you to save a copy of it in your salon and spa software system, along with progress photos if applicable. Attaching the treatment plan to the client card makes it easy to review the treatment plan with the client at the start of future appointments to make sure you’re still on the same page. When booking your client’s upcoming appointments, refer back to your treatment plan to ensure return visits booked at the right time to produce the best outcome for the client. Having a series of appointments booked in advance lets the client know what their treatment schedule is. You can also set up automatic email or text reminders to help to reduce no shows.

Create consistency Using forms to facilitate client consultations helps to create a system of quality and consistency. Ensuring each and every client receives the same care and attention in the consultation process, no matter which staff member is completing it. Store completed forms in your salon software so your staff can securely access any relevant history, consents or other information you have on file before meeting with a client for the first time, and see at a glance if there are any outstanding forms or consents to be completed. This way your client receives personalised service every time, regardless of which staff member they meet with.

Provide improved aftercare During or after each appointment, you’ll need to communicate any necessary aftercare advice to your client. Taking into account everything you have learned about your client in this appointment or previous consultations enables you to recommend the most personalised aftercare. The ability to easily refer to records from previous appointments ensures you can offer consistent and considered recommendations and advice, even if it’s been a while since their last visit.

Reduce admin with electronic forms For all their benefits and necessities, forms can carry with them an administrative burden. Copying information from paper forms into client cards, scanning and saving a copy into your salon software and then filing the paper away is time-consuming. This manual process can also lead to errors such as forms being attached to the wrong client or information being incorrectly entered. All of this paperwork also comes at an environmental and financial cost. Salon software with inbuilt customisable form functionality such as Kitomba Salon and Spa Software can solve these problems by automatically doing much of the admin for you, and letting you go paper-free. Formalising your client consultation process using forms can help you to provide a more comprehensive, personalised service for each and every client visit. Taking advantage of electronic forms gives you the additional benefits of convenience and security for both your staff and clients. Kitomba Salon and Spa software has recently released customisable digital forms for client consultations, consent and collecting information such as medical history. Forms can be completed by clients on any device and are wautomatically saved to their Client Card, ensuring they can be easily referred to later. Book a demo to see how Kitomba Salon and Spa Software can help you go paperless and save time www.kitomba.com/free-demo. n

Alyssa McArley is the Marketing Manager at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software. www.kitomba.com

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WELLNESS

Olivia Newton-John’s SKINCARE JOURNEY

She is known as Australia’s favourite export and for her healthy glow. After setting up the luxurious Gaia Retreat in Byron Bay Olivia launched the award-winning Australian native filled Retreatment Botanics range. She talks to Anita Quade about her health and beauty journey.

You founded Gaia Retreat & Spa in 2005 – tell us why you chose the location for the retreat and what was your inspiration to head into the wellness arena? “I’ve always had a natural interest in wellness. My mother instilled in me the importance of healthy eating, taking care of my skin and self-care from a very young age. It’s a message I like to pass on as much as I can. I find it incredibly healing to surround myself with nature – to take walks through the countryside, breathe in the fresh air and to simply enjoy the beauty of Mother Earth.”

What were your thoughts when you and your friend Gregg Cave came across the stunning property? “When we saw the property that is now Gaia Retreat & Spa, we knew we had found a piece of paradise. The lush expanse of the Byron Bay Hinterland is such a unique part of Australia, and we felt something very spiritual emanating from this piece of land. Walking barefoot in the grass we felt instantly connected to Mother Earth. Gaia (spirit of Mother Earth) washes away stress, calms your soul and gives you a deep sense of peace and wellbeing.”

How did you turn your spa and beauty dream into a reality? “We wanted to share this special place with friends and loved ones, and so, with the help of two of our friends who are also directors of Gaia– Ruth Kalnin and Warwick Evans, and an extremely talented team of therapists, wellness experts and staff, Gaia was born!”

What has been your proudest wellness milestone? “I have two really! Opening both Gaia and the Wellness Centre at the Olivia Newton-John Cancer

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Wellness Research Centre. Both places help people heal and replenish body mind and spirit – reflecting my way of thinking that your thoughts create your reality so eating well and thinking positively creates a happier life – for you and others!”

Tell us what inspired you to launch your incredible 10 product Retreatment Botanics range how did you ensure it was different from other organic products? “It was a natural progression to launch our own skincare range to reflect the values we hold at Gaia. The Gaia Spa facials and treatments are so deeply luxurious and nourishing, that we wanted our guests to be able to take that magical experience with them! Our skincare is designed to bring back the feelings of Gaia at home, their own spa retreat!”

RESULTS DRIVEN SKINCARE

How was the Retreatment Botanics range created? “Retreatment Botanics has been created without compromise. Firstly, we knew that the products had to be toxic-free and made with the highest quality natural and organic ingredients. It was also important they were Vegan and Cruelty-Free, as well as Palm-Oil Free. Secondly, we worked closely with leading green scientists and we are so proud to have achieved formulas that are truly effective and also meet our high standards. We don’t need to harm our bodies or the planet to have beautiful skin!”

Skincare formulations are constantly evolving how do you ensure you stay ahead? “We have also formulated the range using a new, ground breaking technology – Australian Biomimicry. To survive in the harshest places on earth, Australian native plants intelligently store super high concentrations of antioxidants and vitamins. This new technology is able to capture these powerful phytocompounds as they exist in nature, in their most active and stable form. I have witnessed its very real results on my own skin, and it is amazing!”

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Any can’t live without products in your beauty stash? “It’s hard to pick one can’t-live-without product. They are all incredible! I do especially love the serums – Kakadu Brightening Serum and Restore Serum. They are really nurturing and hydrating. I also adore the Firming Eye Cream and Ultra-Rich Moisturiser. I love the whole range!”

You work closely with the Gaia team – do you have any plans for expansion and perhaps stocking in other salons and spas? “Yes, absolutely. We would love to share this beautiful range with everyone around the world including other salons and spas.”

What does beauty mean to you? “I find beauty in everything – it is all around us. It can be a single flower growing through a cracked pavement, the laughter of a child, the wagging of a dog’s tail, kindness from a stranger or a song that moves us. When we stop and acknowledge these small, sometimes fleeting moments, it lifts our heart and brings us into the moment – which is all we have! I believe this is true beauty.” n

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INDUSTRY INSIDER

EDUCATION DRIVEN AST National Education and Product Development Manager Joanne Healy reveals how education is key to business success. Joanne tell us how you started out in the beauty industry? “I began my beauty therapy adventure in 2002 because of my love for makeup and working with people to help them feel better about themselves. This is where I found my passion for skin, results driven treatments and helping people with their skin concerns. From here on I was striving to learn more about the skin and the treatments available to achieve superior results and support the recovery process pre and post-surgical procedures. This led me to completing my Bachelor of Health Science in Clinical Dermal Therapies and working alongside one of Melbourne’s leading Plastic Surgeons.”

What was your next challenge? “After completing my degree and gaining extensive clinical experience I was ready for my next challenge which was where I began my ever evolving career in Education with AST. I loved sharing my knowledge with my clients in clinic to help them with their concerns but I was finding this wasn’t enough anymore. I wanted to help others in the industry to further their skills and be a part of taking the skincare industry to a more clinical approach. After many years of Educating and with my love of helping people, I furthered my career to managing our team of Clinical Educators to support their growth. This role also entailed many other facets from mentoring the team, to developing course content and launching the AST ACADEMY. This was a huge role, but once again I was getting itchy feet to try something new which drew me to finally following my passion of digging deeper with ingredients and Cosmetic Chemistry. I completed my Diploma of Personal Care formulation 4 years ago where I started dabbling in product innovation and development landing me in my current role of National Education and Product Development Manager.”

TOP FIVE TIPS ON HOW BEAUTY COMPANIES CAN MAXIMISE THEIR BUSINESS. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Employ the right staff Look after your staff with continued learning opportunities and growth Practice servant leadership to empower your people Keep on the pulse of what’s new in the industry Be sceptical and do your research

You have more than 17 years’ experience in the industry – and are currently leader of AST Education and Training – how important is training in the industry? “Education and training in the industry is vital. The ever-expanding technologies and new discoveries of how to approach skin conditions is improving every day. Therapists need to keep up their education to stay ahead of their clients.

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The average consumers are more aware of what to look for and especially the millennial generation are now more health and environmentally conscious than any other generation preceding them. We are moving into a new era with skincare whereby we need to meet all needs across the market:• Results driven • No Parabens • No non-renewable ingredients • Sustainable packaging • Cruelty Free • Vegan • Luxury 10 years ago these categories in the industry were all separated attracting different clientele but now consumers want it all in the one brand. It is crucial for clinics and their therapists to not only be across how to recommend skincare for skin concerns but also how to meet the myriad of needs and wants of the consumers of today.”

What are your main goals when it comes to education? To offer the most prestigious and effective education and training support in the industry. To have: • The best products in the industry • The best people with the best knowledge and approach • The best training facilities and courses • The best communication and training materials

How do you keep up with all the skincare trends emerging? • • • • •

Consistent market research Keeping across the social channels Attending conferences nationally and internationally Networking with other Cosmetic Chemists Subscribing to accredited societies in the industry

What is one of the biggest lessons that you have learnt in business? “Your staff and your fellow employees are your customers too. Treat them with the same dignity and respect you would give your clients.”

Best piece of professional advice you have been given? “Always approach an issue with a solution and practice open and transparent communication with your people.”

You manage Aspect and AST product development and have a passion for bringing new and innovative products to market – what are some of the most important innovations you have seen in the past five years? “Peptide technology is ever evolving. Peptides are revolutionary because they can mimic natural skin responses without irritation or side effects. They have proven efficacy and continue to advance in their results as well as the types of conditions they can address. Aspect began its journey 12 years ago using peptide technology throughout the range for firming and rejuvenation effects, now we are seeing peptides specific to targeting pigmentation, mimicking Vitamin A as well as growth factors. Aspect research and development is at the forefront of these technologies with new innovative products coming to market utilising these ingredients in specialised formulas that have never been seen before in Australian skincare.”

IT IS CRUCIAL FOR CLINICS AND THEIR THERAPISTS TO NOT ONLY BE ACROSS HOW TO RECOMMEND SKINCARE FOR SKIN CONCERNS BUT ALSO HOW TO MEET THE MYRIAD OF NEEDS AND WANTS OF THE CONSUMERS OF TODAY. Any other key ingredients we should be on the lookout for? “Plant derived enzymes are now the way of the future for added support to the average skincare users daily regime. Not only are we seeing enzymes for superficial exfoliation but specific enzymes such as Anacystis Nidulans (Photolyase), Micrococcus leteus (Endonuclease) and Arabidopsis thaliana (OGGI), are now a necessity to assist in the skin’s natural recovery process post environmental exposure and post professional treatments. We all need these every day.”

Any hit predictions on what will be the next big thing in skincare? 1. Tranexamic Acid. Watch this space! Tranexamic Acid’s calming benefits attributes to its distinctive suitability to diffuse redness and as a result has shown proven efficacy for minimising the appearance of uneven pigmentation and discolouration. Aspect Dr’s Complete Pigment Plus will be the first topical Tranexamic Acid to launch to the Australian market in mid-September of this year. 2. Progressive not aggressive approach to addressing problematic skin. New innovative formulas are on their way, minimising the need for strong resurfacing acids. They calm and purify aggravated skins, supporting the skin’s barrier and natural defenses. They are an ideal support for those patients suffering from extensive breakouts that are already on active exfoliating regimes or topical and oral medications. You must checkout our new Aspect Clearing Complex due to hit our clinic’s shelves in mid-September.

How can companies can remain competitive such a fastpaced environment? “They need to practice diversity and employ staff with a variety of personalities, backgrounds and credentials to form teams that can tackle project from all angles. This approach also improves businesses opportunities.” n

ONE MUSIC. ONE LICENCE. Music licensing has changed for the better. In the next few months beauty salons will receive stepby-step information on how to transition from the two-licence system of APRA AMCOS and PPCA to the simpler one-licence system of OneMusic Australia. For the first time ever, there’s an interactive e-commerce website so you can log-in, transact online and review all your music use details in one place, at any time of the day or night. Beauty Salons will enjoy enormous benefits from: • a huge cut in red tape and admin time - you’ve been asking for it! • new background music fees - with packages starting at $85 • easy add-on options for telephone on hold and website music • legal access to a worldwide collection of music

What next? The advance information about OneMusic Australia will be rolled out to coincide with your renewal date. In the meantime contact hello@onemusic.com.au or visit our website.

onemusic.com.au 1300 162 162

SKINCARE

Spring your skin into

ACTION

Spring is here, and with it an increase in temperature, humidity, sun exposure and allergens. Matoyla Kollaras reveals how to prepare your clients for the months ahead. A NEW SEASON, can cause changes to the skin’s overall health and appearance. Furthermore, it is also a more challenging time for skin that is atopic, allergenic, sensitive and sensitised, and these environmental changes can significantly affect those who have common skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne or rosacea. As we leave behind dry, dull, lacklustre, itchy winter skin, and layers of balms and oils, here is a checklist to help protect your clients in spring and the effects of the hotter summer months.

PREPARE & PROTECT 1. SPRING CLEAN – Exfoliate and renew “Just like you clean up your winter wardrobe, clean up your winter skin,” says Doris Day, MD, a dermatologist based in New York City and clinical associate professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center. “Bring out its brightness by exfoliating a little more in the spring.” During winter, when skin is drier and often more sensitive, it is best to exfoliate once per week. But as we move into Spring, I can recommend exfoliation twice per week (in most cases). This will help to remove older layers of skin and product, thus helping topical treatments and water-based products be better absorbed by skin. Most skin types can increase exfoliation to twice a week. If you or your client notices dryness, redness, or sensitivity, decrease how often your client exfoliates or suggest another exfoliator. Most importantly, do not treat with or recommend exfoliators that will create sun sensitivity and thus potentially cause inflammation or skin disorders such as hyperpigmentation. • Gommage – is a type of exfoliator made without abrasive ingredients, thus making it a little less irritating. And although it is suitable for most skin types and conditions, it’s more compatible with sensitive skin, and the perfect postwinter exfoliator. • Detox Exfoliant Masks – assist the removal of dead skin cells from the surface, while also promoting detoxification below the skin’s surface and in the lymphatic system. These products are also recommended for skin conditions such as psoriasis, acne and rosacea. But all skin can do with a good detoxification. Look for products with ingredients such as herbal exfoliants and Dead Sea mud.

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TIP: I recommend a detox mask once per week plus exfoliator of choice once per week. • Enzymatic - Exfoliation with the use of enzymes is generally achieved with a specific family of enzymes called proteases, or protein degrading enzymes. When formulated with a lower or acidic pH, these cellular enzymes break down the protein bonds that cause inter-corneocyte cohesion and promote the natural shedding of dead skin cells. Protease enzymes can be derived from bacteria, fungi, animals, plants, fruits and vegetables. Some of the more commonly used enzymes in skin care formulations include bromelain (pineapple extract), papain (papaya extract), ficin (fig extract), and actinidin (kiwi, pineapple, mango, banana and papaya extracts). • Chemical/Acid peels - formulated with hydroxy acids, chemical peels deliver enhanced exfoliation solution by effectively breaking down the protein bonds of corneocytes and achieving better levels of peel penetration and exfoliation of the stratum corneum. However, acid peels must be used with caution as the weather warms up. Aggressive peels should be avoided, instead opt for light, in-clinic or home-care glycolic peels. BHA (beta hydroxy/salicylic acid) peels are excellent choice for acne breakout which Spring’s warmer weather can trigger or exacerbate.

2. LIGHTEN THE LOAD Clients should be encouraged to go through their cosmetics, makeup, and sunscreens, and toss-out the things that have been around a little too long. That includes washing or throwing out makeup brushes. This is the time to also switch to lighter and more hydrating products. Moisturiser is crucial to any skin-care routine, but using heavy creams in the spring can actually cause annoying breakouts. We recommend that your clients switch from very heavy, nourishing and oil-based products to lighter formulations, like a hydrating serum. Heavy creams have lipids that stick to the skin and repair your dry winter skin barrier. When that skin barrier is already healthy, however, the extra lipids to the skin can cause clogged pores and pimples. Look for serum, lotions, or hydrating gels rather than creams. Keep skin well-hydrated. TIP: If clients still need to use oils, we recommend jojoba or seabuckthorn-based creams and serums – evening application over a hydrating serum or light night cream.

3. SMARTER SUN PROTECTION After a month spent rugged up and indoors, slathering on sun protection is a must once temps start to rise. Correction, more diligent sun protection is a must and that includes application even when it is cloudy. “Springtime is actually a high-risk time for sunburn and sun damage,” says dermatologist Christopher O’Connell. “Although the weather is warmer, it’s still so mild you might not feel how strong the sun is. Apply sunscreen every morning and reapply it again before any outdoor activity during the day.” Ensure that sun-care products or moisturisers and makeup offer BROADSPECTRUM, with physical sunscreens included such as ZINC OXIDE or TITANIUM DIOXIDE However, for optimum protection, I highly recommend that you look for new generation sunscreen products. These products include a broad-spectrum UV filter with strong performance over the entire UV range, plus infrared protection. Furthermore, these products tend to also exhibit strong anti-oxidant and antiinflammatory activity which together with UV filters, create a second line of defence with the skin similar to a ‘double barrier’ against present and future damage associated with daily UV and free radical exposure, two players in skin premature ageing and disease. Ingredients such as: • • • • •

Niacinamide Vitamin C Red Algae Prickly Pear Myrrh

• • • •

Dunaliela Salina algae Sunflower oil Seabuckthorn Tinoguard TL

4. ACNE Warmer weather and high humidity can trigger the skin to sweat and also produce more oil. Sweat and oil tends to clog pores leading to higher incidence of acne breakouts, and therefore the need for clients to modify their skin care. • Clients should avoid using products that contain oil or alcohol • Clients should avoid cleansing products that dry out their skin – this also includes wipes • Cleanse twice daily • Keep skin well hydrated to avoid excessive production of oil • Avoid fast, fatty and sugary foods. Choose a diet high in EFAs, zinc, fruit, vegetables, and probiotics

Inspired by the great food halls in Europe, Bel & Brio was established to bring delicious, authentic Italian food to Sydneysiders in the bustling Barangaroo precinct. Executive Chef Davide Incardona’s menu is a nod to his traditional Italian upbringing, using flavours and cooking techniques from the cuisine of his hometown in Brescia with a contemporary twist inspired by seasonal and ethically-sourced produce. The menu is complemented by Cellars housed within Bel & Brio, a speciality wine cellar curated by wine expert Jon Osbeiston. Cellars boasts an extensive list of 3,500 wines traversed from Italy, France and Australia, celebrating iconic and up-and-coming wineries in the industry. Bel & Brio is the quintessential dining destination for breakfast, lunch and dinner to suit every occasion - whether you choose to share an intimate meal with loved ones at Corso Brio (a restaurant housed within Bel & Brio), host your next celebration in the Private Dining Room, have a meeting over lunch or simply have a relaxing drink after a day’s work in the office.

TIPS There are many ways to help clients prepare their skin for the warmer months, both topically and holistically. Nothing is worse for skin than a long, cold winter, low humidity in conjunction with heat and hot air. Knees, elbows, heels and toes can suffer from a winter of what we don’t see, we neglect. Here are some final tips on how to awaken skin from its winter hibernation and get it ready for Spring and Summer – your clients will thank you for it: • • • • • • • •

Exfoliate and moisturise head to toe Invest in a good foot cream and apply before bed Add an eye cream Large protective sunglasses Get moving - something as simples as a daily brisk walk Eat more fruit and vegetables Keep well hydrated Change your pillowcase more often

Matoyla Kollaras is the Managing Director of Skin Factors. www.skinfactors.com.au

Open 7 days a week, Bel & Brio offers its customers the opportunity to unwind and enjoy an authentic Italian culinary experience. T3.01, 300 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo Sydney NSW 2000 02 9299 9107 concierge@belandbrio.com.au belandbrio.com.au

SALON PROFILE

RENEE-ISSANCE Renee Grant owns and operates a boutique home nail and beauty salon in the ACT. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with her to talk about her thriving business, Renaissance Nails and Beauty.

Tell us about Renaissance Nails and Beauty? “Renaissance Nails & Beauty was established in 2014. Up until that point I had been working in a local salon. I loved it there, however during that experience I found my true passion within the industry - Bio Sculpture Gel and nail art. So I decided I would take the leap and give it a go on my own so I could focus on the specific services that I truly loved.”

How was it opening a home salon? “Scary at first. All these doubts go through your mind - will clients even want to come? Will I make enough money? Can I do it on my own? I was very blessed to be in a situation where I had the support from my parents to begin my journey operating out of their home. It allowed me to keep injecting my income back into the business so that I could build my supplies up and grow it into a full time operation before I built my first home with my husband. I took the leap, not knowing where I would end up, and here I am five years later.”

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Who is your typical clientele? “Most of my lovely ladies are working mums that need a time out from their kids. They take pride in their appearance but are happy to spend the time with me getting their nails or lashes done, which in turn will spare them lots of time during the weeks in between their appointments. My clients also care a lot about their health and wellbeing so are happy to invest in high quality products and treatments that won’t cause them any harm.”

What are the most popular nail treatments? “The nude mani is always a winner. Most will add a subtle feature nail or two to flair it up a little but the less is more look is definitely popular with my clients at the moment.”

Tell us about the design?

What are some of the challenges faced by your salon?

“When I was planning the design of the studio in our new home the interior mainly revolved around my tanning pod that was going to be installed. The pod is black, so I stuck with white and grey as the other shades for the interior. I have styled it with little touches of greenery (fake - because I am nail tech and don’t have a green thumb) to soften the vibe and add some colour. It is not a huge room so I have kept it minimal, clean, fresh and professional. I want my clients to feel as though they are in a high class street salon, but for it to still feel warm and inviting. I always have a candle burning, a cup of tea ready and of course a few cuddles from George my Toy Poodle.”

“Business in general always ebbs and flows for everyone. Thankfully, the services I specialise in are generally consistent ‘all year round’ treatments, so my business isn’t affected too much by the typical season change that other salons might face. However, when it’s only me, myself and I, there is no one to help me out if I am sick or take over my clients while I’m on holidays. Cancellations are also tricky for me. I don’t get many of them, but they seem to come in blocks whenever I do. That cuts a significant chunk of my income out for that week. To overcome this, I always have a little money put away for a rainy day and I change the way I look at the situation. Instead of being frustrated at something

WWW.PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.COM.AU

Rezenerate NanoFacials are trending worldwide!

I can’t really control, I take advantage of the new bit of free time I have gained to catch up on admin. When you have a business, there is always something to be done.”

Tell us about as your role as Bio Sculpture Gel and Nouveau Lashes educator? “Becoming an educator was always an aspiration of mine and being offered the opportunity to educate for two amazing brands is truly a dream come true. I have always loved sharing my work with other therapists, inspiring them and encouraging them to try new things. What better way to do so than to be the educator for the products that I use and absolutely love? Working from home and on your own can sometimes feel a little isolating. Even though I see clients all day most days, that contact isn’t quite the same as having a team to bounce off and probably the one thing I miss about working in a salon environment. The girls at Bio Beauty Concepts HQ have welcomed me with open arms and it is so lovely to feel part of a team again. Educating has added an extra element to my career that allows me to continue to build on my skills as a therapist and as an individual.”

Blemishes and Tone

BEFORE

AFTER

Courtesy of Sole Luna Spa, PR - 4 Facials

Fine Lines and Pigmentation

BEFORE

AFTER

Courtesy of Lash-Angeles, Los Angeles, CA - 1 Facial

Pigmentation and Blemishes

BEFORE

AFTER

Courtesy of Sole Luna Spa, PR - 3 Facials

List all the retail brands you stock?

✓

NO Blood, Trauma or Down Time!

✓

Safe, Comfortable, AND Effective!

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Immediate results AND Long Term Benefits!

“I love supporting local businesses. Tea Garden Co are in Canberra and The Little Flame Co are a beautiful handmade soy candle business located in Goulburn. I also stock Bio Sculpture Gel and Nouveau Lashes products, Techno Tan and Pure Fiji.”

How do you use social media? “Facebook was huge when I first established the salon so that definitely helped me to get myself off the ground and that was before they had introduced paid posts and advertising. I reached many people locally that way. Instagram followed suit not long after and has definitely taken over from Facebook. Not only do I reach clients on Instagram, but I also reach fellow technicians all over the world. It’s an amazing community where you feel connected to so many like-minded people. Having access to instantaneous connections and support forums is great as well.” n www.renaissancenailsandbeauty.com

1300 660 297 www.rezenerate.com.au Find us on

EXPO

BRISBANE

Hair and Beauty Expo

A SUCCESS

The 5th annual Brisbane Hair and Beauty Expo entertained, inspired and educated nearly 7000 industry professionals from around Australia in July.

ACCORDING TO EXPO founder and manager Jason Greenhalgh, the event attracted 80 exhibitors as well as the ‘best-of-the-best’ industry experts and educators such as Estelle Oliveri, Megan Farquharson, Cherie Stokic, Renee Gurney, Jessika Brigginshaw and Charlotte Ravet to its new education program, EduFEST. In addition, the Expo’s Sunshine Pro Series Competitions were a major success with 500 industry professionals competing in the Emendee Nail Competition, Hair Competition, Barbering Competition, LashJoy Lash Competition and the Crown Brush Makeup Competition” to test their skills and go head-to-head for great prizes and most importantly, the prestigious titles. The inspiration and education continued across the Centre Stage, Deals Direct Stage and Barbershop Stage with over 40 free presentations by salons and artists including Charlotte Ravet with Anniss+Barton, Sarah Smith MUA, Jessika Brigginshaw, Renee Gurney with Loreta Jasilionyte, Kylie’s Professional and Sheri Vegas . Greenhalg said he was extremely excited with this year’s Expo feedback and the event’s future potential.

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“We are thrilled with the reception that BHBE received from the industry for the event’s 5th year. “Queensland should be incredibly proud! The amount of creativity, talent, and dedication displayed by all involved, from competitors, to stage shows, to exhibitors, to attendees was simply amazing and continues to get bigger and bolder every year. “We are grateful to all those who supported this year’s event – our sponsors, partners, exhibitors, educators and visitors. The event will only be as strong as the support provided by the industry.” n

PROMOTION

COSMOPROF ASIA 2019:

The beauty industry’s leading barometer for market insights and trends

BEAUTY INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS from around the world are increasingly ensuring B2B mega-event Cosmoprof Asia is on their annual calendar. The gateway event between Asia and the rest of the world, Cosmoprof Asia is where the world comes face-to-face with the emerging trends, products and services that will sweep the industry. After all, what happens in Asia today, particularly China, South Korea and Japan, is the world’s most thrilling craze tomorrow. The 24th Cosmoprof Asia, 12 to 15 November, 2019, promises to be a stellar edition, rich in new launches, exciting competitions, insider insights, compelling seminars and industry excitement, putting exhibitors and visitors in the perfect place to experience, learn and strategise, taking their business to the next level.

COSMOTALKS 2019 FEATURES GLOBAL INDUSTRY EXPERTS

The industry’s newest trends, latest disruptions and most cuttingedge solutions all come under the spotlight at Cosmoprof Asia’s Cosmotalks. Our line-up of speakers from international trend agencies, market research companies and education academies put themselves in the hot seat, unveiling the latest industry innovations, identifying future revolutions, while inviting questions, conversation and connection. Presentations and seminars cover the field of supply chains at Cosmopack Asia (12 to 14 November at AsiaWorld-Expo, AWE), meanwhile, at Cosmoprof Asia (13 – 15 November at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, HKCEC) in-depth studies will reveal the currents affecting growing sectors in the AsiaPacific region, best-in-class distribution channels and how to catch today’s consumers’ eyes – and wallets.

COSMOTRENDS BY BEAUTYSTREAMS MAPS INDUSTRY DEVELOPMENTS

Ground Zero for buyers, influencers and scouts, “The CosmoTrends Report 2019” presented at HKCEC by international trend agency BEAUTYSTREAMS, will discuss the trends, macro and micro, unveiled throughout the four-day event. “Skinfluence: How Skin Care Drives Make-up” at AWE will highlight the power of the skincare industry categories.

THE FUTURE OF THE ASIAN MARKET BY EUROMONITOR

Welcome to the future at Euromonitor’s presentation “Skin Care Trends Across Asia from 2019 and Beyond”, taking place at HKCEC. Did you know Asian markets generate over half of all global skin care sales and over the next five years are expected to increase exponentially faster? The report shared for the first time at Cosmoprof Asia, will be nothing short of a game changer.

BEAUTY AND PACKAGING FORECASTING BY WGSN WGSN, international multi-sector trend agency, bridge both packaging and consumer sides of the industry, hosting two seminars, one at each location. At AWE, WGSN will present the packaging trend forecast for 2020 and beyond. At HKCEC, WGSN will present a new beauty forecasting platform, launched Spring 2019, based on the needs of the beauty industry.

CLAIMS VS REALITY BY SGS

SGS, international inspection, verification, testing and certification company, will also present two talks at the two locations. At AWE, the company will talk about “How are sunscreen products being regulated and having their sunscreen efficacy substantiated?” The presentation aims to highlight the main differences between the US and Europe from both regulatory and testing perspectives. Meanwhile at HKCEC, the question “Are the product claims on your skin care cosmetics well substantiated?” will be posed.

SELLING IN CHINA 101 BY KLINE

The seminar presented by Kline will be scheduled at HKCEC under the title “Beauty Retailing in China: Opportunities in the Direct Sales and Specialty Stores Channel”. This presentation will focus on the most powerful retailers, while highlighting how technology is simultaneously infusing new interest in the bricks and mortar shopping experience. n Stay tuned at www.cosmoprof-asia.com for the latest updates.

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BEAUTY ESCAPE

Retreat and surrender at

Gaia

Want to know the secret to blissful serenity Anita Quade checks out wellness bolthole Gaia Retreat & Spa, Co-founded by Olivia NewtonJohn and steeped in Mother Nature for the ultimate beauty break.

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WHEN AUSTRALIAN STAR Olivia NewtonJohn together with one of her best buddies Gregg Cave first stumbled across the lush landscape in the hinterland of Byron Bay back in early 2000s they immediately felt a connection with the undulating valleys and a spiritual connection to the land as they wandered barefoot across the property. Their discovery eventually led to the opening in 2005 of the award winning retreat known as Gaia Retreat & Spa (meaning spirit of Mother Earth). It’s a little wonder this 25 acre piece of tranquility has seen guests trek from around the far flung corners of the globe to arrive here to find peace and solitude at the property which features 25 rooms, suites and villas along with a day spa, tennis court, a heated salt water swimming pool, sauna and the soothing sounds of birds and wildlife.

Back to nature Travelling up the track to the secluded retreat, which is just a short two hour drive from Brisbane or an easy flight and transfer from Ballina – two things standout about this beautiful bolthole – the fresh air thanks to the sub tropic region and the breathtaking landscape bathed in natural light. Staying true to its rustic roots, guests are not overwhelmed by flashy service and buzzing staff upon arrival, it’s a slow pace here welcomed by the weary guests seeking days of solitude and privacy. Olivia Newton-John agrees and says it’s a haven to relax in comfort, enjoy the views and be totally pampered. “Gaia is an unpretentious retreat – a place of heart to reconnect with the land and yourself – barefoot meets Armani we call it,” she laughs. Mother nature abounds here and guests can tailor and personalise their own experience from the food menu through to the activities and spa treatments. Guests can explore the property that offers several scenic walking tracks, weaving through the greenery, past the organic farm and arriving at the hilltop with rewarding jaw-dropping views of the hinterland and ethereal statutes saluting serenity. For those keen to pay homage to Buddha it sits perched contently on a hilltop surrounded by hot pink hibiscus flowers that are often strewn across Buddha’s lap as an offering from guests keen to enjoy the Zen vibes. Wandering around the property is the perfect chance to explore the organic farm, where much of the produce is hand-picked daily and will end up on guests’ plate over lunch and dinner – from the delicate herbs to intricate flowers – this wild plot of goodness is rustic complete with a tin shed – it’s a reminder of farm life at its best.

Food, glorious food The tailored menu, which changes daily is as well thought out as the presentation itself – catering for every whim and dietary requirement. The staff here

AWARD WINNING MOMENTS The retreat has taken out many awards for its accommodation and service. The most recent include: • 2018 Global Hotel of the Year at the 12th annual World Luxury Hotel Awards • World’s Leading Retreat – 2016, 2017 & 2018. • World’s Best Day Spa – 2015, 2016, 2017 & 2018. • Best Luxury Spa Retreat 2017 & 2018. are passionate about the offering with the in-house chefs personally choosing the freshest organic ingredients from the Retreat’s garden along with produce from several local orchards and plantations – only the best will do to fuel the wellness effect. All meals are served in Kukura House starting with a buffet breakfast, a light lunch and three course fine dining dinner. The spa’s hardworking kitchen and restaurant team have been rewarded with many prestigious food awards over the years and most recently were honoured with the World Luxury Spa & Restaurant Award – Global Winner ‘Health & Wellness Cuisine’ 2017,2018, 2019 and Luxury Spa Restaurant 2018, 2019. Following on that success where nutrition plays a pivotal role in the wellness of guests they have released a new ‘Gaia Spa Cuisine – Celebrated Recipes’ cookbook release for guests who would like to try their hand in the kitchen at home.

Relax and renew You would be hard pushed not to feel Zen upon arrival at this property, but for those after pampering treatments there are plenty of world class offerings on

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BEAUTY ESCAPE TRUDI JAYE GENERAL MANAGER AND BRAND DEVELOPER OF RETREATMENT BOTANICS

Can you tell us what products you stock in the Gaia Spa? “We have a selection of professional products that we weave into our treatment rituals, personalised to the needs of every guest. When it comes to skincare and facials, we mainly use our newly launched Retreatment Botanics range. Aside from the fact that our guests request this the most and our therapists love working with the products, we find it really does produce the best results for skin rejuvenation, as well as relaxation and pampering.” What is the most requested spa treatments at Gaia? “The most requested treatments are certainly the deluxe spa packages, ranging from the divine Signature Retreatment Botanics Restore Facial, Gaia Goddess, and Dreamtime Travel, to the, Crystal Healing Journey and Inner Serenity Package. Other favourites are our steam room Body Polishes and the Signature Royal Kahuna Massage, which is based on ancient Hawaiian techniques. The Gaia journey captures an authentic spa experience and we invite guests to reconnect, rebalance and allow themselves time to truly restore.” Any plans for new treatments to add on the menu? “Our spa menu is very comprehensive, offering an incredible variety of healing modalities, and guests will always find a treatment that meets their needs. Our therapists are some of the best in the world and work intuitively to create the perfect spa ritual for you on that day.” How important is taking time out for guests to ensure their well-being? “I see guests burnt out and feeling guilty about taking time out for themselves. That is why our focus is on the individual to help alleviate that guilt and get them back to their heart centre. I believe the explosion of social media and constant connectivity to devices has played a major role in this, as many people can’t shut down and find stillness. Their lives become focused on everything else other than themselves. We aim to inspire people to make a commitment to healthy living and to ignite a love of life.” How long have you been at Gaia? “I have been with Gaia for 4 years now and I have loved every day. It’s such a rewarding role and I love nothing more than to see the stress falling away from guests the second they arrive and feel the special healing energy of the retreat.” What is your background? “I trained as a master facialist and skincare specialist in New York and Sydney, as well as a nutrition and wellness counsellor and reflexologist. I have a wealth of experience in the beauty and wellness industry - it’s a real passion!”

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the menu influenced by ancient health practices from around the world. Restorative treatments range from facials and massages to alternative therapies using a mix of natural products and Olivia Newton-John and Gaia’s skincare range – Retreatment Botanics – offering all natural and vegan formulas. The lure of this tranquil space is Mother nature, featuring the tranquil sounds of birds and native beauty while you recline and enjoy taking time out from the daily grind. Lounge by the heated salt swimming pool and stunning spa which is nestled amongst nature. It has been crowned World’s Best Day Spa four years in a row by the World Spa Awards. Need we say more.

Luxury upgrades While the property constantly updates its offerings to guests, its consistent approach to service and wellness was recently recognised when it took out the coveted 2018 Global Hotel of the Year honour at a glittering international gala ceremony. Accepting the award co-owner and general manager of Gaia, Gregg Cave

said: “When Olivia and I first began to dream our vision of a barefoot meets Armani luxe at a home away from home, where and friends and future guests could relax in a chilled-out comfort, we never in our wildest imaginations would have thought that one day it would be recognised, yet alone win, the Global Hotel of the Year Award.” As part of their 2019 plan to offer the best in wellness it has been upgrading various parts of the retreat including unveiling a new 2-bedroom Komala Luxe Villa perched on a hilltop overlooking the Northern hinterland of Gaia. The expansive villa with its own infinity saltwater plunge pool, private deck with daybed, a cosy fireplace and palatial bedrooms features ensuites and a freestanding tub. Luxury in nature doesn’t get much better than this. The Retreat has also unveiled the new grand Samadhi Yoga Room with North facing aspects nestled in the Western lush rainforest which is the perfect environment for early morning yoga, Pilates or the golden hour with nurturing meditation and sound healing. This truly relaxing Retreat is testimony to why so many people return again and again to this lush haven and call it a spiritual home to reboot their wellness regime. Olivia Newton John who often stays at the property agrees, commenting: “I am so proud of our staff, family and amazing healers who have helped build this dream into a reality that is now recognised on a global scale – bringing people to Australia, my heart home and letting them experience peace, healing and renewal of their spirit.” n

LAST WORD

LORD GAVIN MCLEODVALENTINE

Celebrity facialist Lord Gavin McLeod-Valentine jetted into Sydney recently to launch Intraceuticals new range of face serums. He chats about his A-list black book that includes Kim Kardashian-West and Michelle Williams and the power of beauty.

My beauty mantra is… “You can lift it. you can fill it, you can fry it, but if you don’t address hydration within the skin you are never going to look younger.” My favourite place for inspiration… I am inspired by the different cultures and cities that I am fortunate to travel through to promote Intraceuticals and treat my lovely clients. Home to me is … New York, my home for the past 15 years always serves as a place for energetic stimulation. But at home in Scotland, up in the highlands, the active world of nature and stillness of thought inspires me beyond compare. My most memorable career milestone is… Treating Allison Janney and Olivia Colman for their Oscar wins. To play a part in their career defining day, is a thrill and honour that I take incredibly seriously. 132

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I am inspired by… My 99 year old Grandmother and my mother and father who always made me believe anything is possible.

I can’t live without… Intraceuticals Rejuvenate Daily Serum and Retouch Eye, Highlight and Lift Serums for my skin and my Hermes Birkin Bag for all my treatment products.

The biggest lesson I have learnt… The universe has a way of putting us exactly where we are meant to be. There have been moments when I wished for something to happen, thinking it would be the best thing for me. When it didn’t happen as thought I was devastated. But I wouldn’t be living my best life today, surrounded by those I love and thriving in my career if that initial desire had come to fruition. The celebrity that sums up beauty to me is… Susan Sarandon. She is passionate, intelligent, informed about the world around her and an advocate for personal empowerment. Not to mention her ageless timeless beauty.

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EVENTS

ALL HAIL VITAMIN A Dr Des Fernandes, founder and scientific director of Environ Skin Care, joined Margifox Distributors for a series of industry events in Brisbane and Melbourne. Direct from South Africa, Dr Fernandes, who has spent the last 30 years researching skin, emphasised the importance of vitamin A for healthy skin. He discussed Environ’s latest innovations, the Focus Care Radiance+ and Clarity+ ranges, and how these ranges were designed to target and treat stubborn skin conditions such as pigmentation and acne.

LIFE OF LUXURY The top performing Payot salons across the country were rewarded with a week of luxury indulgence in Paris, staying at the Hotel Royal Saint Honore. The trip include a trip to the Payot headquarters, a visit to Château de Chantilly, which is home to the second largest collection of antique paintings after the Louvre, as well as visits to the Great Stables and the Van Gogh Exhibition at Atelier des Lumière, plus lots of fine dining, drinking and dancing.

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CORNEOTHERAPY CONFERENCE The dermaviduals Australasia team were proud to attend the International Symposium on Corneotherapy in Bonn, Germany. Corneotherapists, dermatologists, skin therapists and other skin health experts from all around the world attended the distinguished annual event to learn the latest trends, techniques and ground-breaking research findings. Managing director of German KOKO dermaviduals, Dr Hans Lautenschläger, hosted the symposium. Following the conference, the International Symposium of Corneotherapy was held in Königswinter. More than 20 dermaviduals partners from Australia and New Zealand made their way to the conference where they learnt about such things as oleogels, water balance in our skin, intimate care, rosacea, barrier and cornification, and much more.

ULTRADERM AWARDS

MASKS AND MASSAGES Chemcorp International treated media and influencers to bubbles, canapes and hand massages at the launch of the new skin care range Spascriptions at the Marie France Group in Walsh Bay. Guests were introduced to the range which includes 22 masks along with cleansing wipes and a facial cleansing power brush.

Ultraderm hosted an educational, one day conference at the Sheraton Grand Mirage on the Gold Coast where salon partners networked and heard tips on how to build their businesses. At the Ultraderm Momentum Partner Conference, the skincare company celebrated its 10 year anniversary and held an awards event in the evening where Amie Rose Beauty won Best New Salon, Bomond Beauty Studio was awarded Best Sole Operator, Best Regional Salon went to Vanish Ink, Outstanding Effort went to Sandy Rogers, Margaret Young won Therapist of the Year and Oi Cosmetic Studio took out Salon of the Year.

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EVENTS

SUMMER PARTY Beauty media and influencers headed east to hear about the latest launches from tanning brand St Tropez. Cocktails, champagne and canapes were served to guests at Bondiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hotel Ravesis on a flower-filled balcony overlooking the water as they perused the new products. Each guest was given a goody bag to take home containing the new St Tropez Gradual Tan Watermelon Infused Moisture Miracle Lotion and Watermelon Infused Bronzing Mousse.

KOREAN COSMETICS Innisfree flagship store opened with a bang at Westfield Sydney on Pitt Street. Media were invited to preview the new store from 8am, before it was opened up to the general public at 9am. As guests wandered around the 161sqm flagship store, the second one to open in the world after Korea, they had the chance to try more than 700 beauty products across skincare, makeup, body care, and everything inÂ between.

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AESTHETIC EXPERT VISIT Cryomed held a jam-packed, two-day training session at Pullman Sydney Airport. More than 40 people attend the seminar, hosted by well-known author and clinical aesthetic expert Andrew Hansford, who flew in from the UK for the event. The main aim of the two-day intensive training was to introduce attendees to Skin Perfusion from FILLMED by Filorga. The clinic cosmeceutical range, created and manufactured in France, was specifically designed to act in synergy with cosmetic procedures.

HAPPINESS SKINCARE RANGE Media and influencers feasted on a plant-based high tea at the launch of a new organic and vegan skincare range. The Nuggett X Charlie Happiness range was showcased to guests at Alibi Bar, Ovolo Hotel, Woolloomooloo. The brand, handcrafted by Australian film and TV make-up artist, Nuggett McCabe, was named after herself and her beloved late pet pug, Charlie. Nuggett said all of her products were made “with love and passion”.

BEAUTY BEATS Beauty Beats by Sephora was held at the Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay. New and exclusive makeup, skincare and haircare products hitting Sephora’s shelves were showcased to media and influencers over coffee and pastries. Guests were given a goody bag to take home with the latest launches.

Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Michelle Ruzzene, at mruzzene@intermedia.com.au.

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AD INDEX

index

Advanced Cosmeceuticals 15, 31 Advanced Skin Technology 29 Artav Australia 53, 65 asap skin products 11 Beauty Boosters 33 BizCover 109 Black Magic 74, 75 Candela Medical 42, 43 Christina Cosmeceuticals 140 Cosmoprof Asia 35, 127 Cryomed Australia 2, 3, 57 Cutera Australia 23 Derma Aesthetics 39 Dermaenergy 37 Dermalogica 4, 5 Eco Tan 73 Encore Beauty 71 Ex-Import Niche Products 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 113 Fox Cosmetics 89 Guinot 24, 25 In2Skin 107, 125 INIKA Organic 49 Inskin Cosmedics 17 Jane Iredale 47 Jax Wax Australia 95 Kitomba 99 Le Beauty 131 Lycon Cosmetics 69, 111 MM Beauty Equipment 54, 55 MoroccanTan 63 Nouveau Lashes 91 Payot Cosmetics 6, 7 Pelactiv 13 Professional Beauty 93, 139 Professional Beauty Solutions 19 RefectoCil Australia 85 Shedul 51 SME Cash 105 Thalgo 1, 20, 21 Timely Salon & Spa Software 103 TPG 133 Zuii Organic 66, 67

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