Professional Beauty September-October 2018

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SEP•OCT 2018 INFORMATION. INNOVATION. INSPIRATION.

GOLDEN GODDESS The tanning revolution

JUST ADD WATER

The rise of beauty supplements

BUSINESS BASICS

How to protect your assets


NUTRITION ESSENTIELLE

LISS ABSOLU

PURETE ESSENTIELLE

A nutritive care facial that brings nourishing, suppleness & soothing, to dry skins. Immediately, the skin is soft and plumped. The complexion is luminous, the radiance is revived.

A facial with an immediate “new skin” effect thanks to an AHA peeling treatment that smoothes deep wrinkles and fine lines. After the massage, the rebalancing mask restores the skin’s pH for an amazing rejuvenating effect.

A purifying, balancing treatment for combination or oily skin, using a heating scrub with a peel-off mask to perfectly purify the skin.

HYDRATATION ESSENTIELLE COLLAGEN

LIFT ABSOLU

DETOX ABSOLUE

A unique treatment that instantly and visibly fixes the loss of firmness and elasticity, to restore the volume and to lift the face and neck contours. Once applied passive gymnastic gesture has been especially developed to deliver the active ingredients to visibly firm the skin and provide an immediate tightening effect.

A unique treatment to detoxify and clear skin for an even complexion of perfect radiance. The black formula treatment masque is applied during the facial using a magnet to remove, engendering electromagnetic micro-stimulation resulting in an incredibly detoxified skin, a genuine renewal of the complexion.

An immediate hydrating, soothing & plumping facial treatment for all dehydrated skins using a specialised collagen mask to infuse and draw moisture into the skin.

SUPREME EXPERIENCE

ECLAT ESSENTIELLE

An anti-aging treatment experience that acts simultaneously on wrinkles, slackened skin, dull complexion and dark spots. This facial includes: a pearl scrub to refine and brighten the skin; the famous Dr. Payot 42-Movement Massage with a firming balm; and a mask with silver pigments that reduces the effects of ageing. A complete treatment with a truly exceptional anti-ageing experience.

An energising treatment combining Goji & Açaí superfruits duo that deliver powerful antioxidants. This treatment includes a peel-off mask, giving an immediate feeling of well-being and enhanced beauty. The skin is illuminated with a recovered softness and a radiant healthy look.

Call 1300 367 969 or 02 9874 1166 for more information.


AGE PREVENTION FACIALS

Ask u why Payot terapis do m professinl teatent faci


DERMO-MIMETIC

Pro-Youth Program The next generation beyond anti-ageing skincare... with botanical active ingredients and new generation peptides

Ă&#x;P3. Tri-complex saffron-sophora-peptides *

Exclusively in clinics & spas


Wrinkle zone

NEW DERMO-MIMETIC

PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT At the cutting edge of innovative skin care in the era of dermo-aesthetic technology. › 1 - Fight oxidative stress Lift zone

› 2 - Fight the signs of chronological ageing

Lose up to 6 years off your visible skin age in 3 professional intensive treatments!

IMAGE OF AVERAGE RESULTS

BEFORE THE COURSE

SOTHYS ADVANCED

RESEARCH

SAFFRON

SOPHORA

P E P T I D E S*

Phone: 1800 816 599 www.sothys.com.au (1) Visioscan image. Average result obtained for the reduction in the number of wrinkles (-16%) 1 week after a course of 3 Treatments. (2) Self-evaluation after 1 week and then after a course of 3 Treatments: up to 6.2 years off the skin.

AFTER THE COURSE OF 3 TREATMENTS + 1 WEEK OF CONTINUING EFFECTS




CONTENTS

September/October 2018 9

Editor’s letter

10

What’s on PB radar

12

News

20

Cover story – The Relaunching of Priori

22

Viewpoint – How to avoid medical disasters?

26

Skincare

36

Salon view – Skin Renu

40

Makeup – Bronzers

42

New makeup

44

Nails - Nude

46

New products

50

Tanning masterclass – The Moroccan Effect

60

Tanning – Product innovations

68

Tanning - Education and Training

70

Tanning - Product Extenders

73

Industry Roundtable - The Future of Skincare

50

82

Waxing

86

Is it time to hire a business coach?

88

How to retain your staff

90

Interiors - Aztec Spa

92

How to build a business

94

Bricks Vs Clicks - staying ahead of online retail competition

90

96

Protecting your assets

98

Industry Insider - Leesa Dawson

100 The franchise dilemma 102 Beauty Notebook 104 Career How I Got Here

with Victoria Curtis 108 Marketing – Success is in site 110 The Ultraceuticals roadshow 112

Technology

114 Wellness 118 Salon profile - The Beauty Base

38

120 Health - Skin cancer

116

60

124 Beauty escape – Azabu Bryon Bay 128 Last word with Amy Jean 130 Events

ON THE COVER President of Priori, Regis Haberkorn unveils the relaunch of the iconic brand and shares the journey on the road to success. Regis talks about why the company has launched Adaptive Skincare and catering for the client who wants skincare tailored to their individual needs. Turn to page 20.

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BHA MEDIA PUBLISHER + COMMERCIAL MANAGER Glenn Silburn EDITOR Anita Quade aquade@intermedia.com.au BEAUTY EDITOR Michelle Ruzzene mruzzene@intermedia.com.au ONLINE AND NEWS EDITOR Jenny Berich jberich@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper GROUP ART DIRECTOR Sanja Spuzanic HEAD OF CIRCULATION Chris Blacklock cblacklock@intermedia.com.au Professional Beauty magazine is published by BHA MEDIA ABN 23142047943

EDITOR’S LETTER

PUBLISHER BHA MEDIA

WITH SPRING ON the way, we here at Professional Beauty have turned our focus this edition to the lure of a golden glow. Gone are the days of lazing in the harsh Australian sun, now the skincare trend is focusing on creating a faux holiday glow without the sun damage – from customised spray tans to quick dry products. Australian beauty salons are the leaders when it comes to formulation innovations. We chatted to the experts in the industry about the tanning revolution (page 60). Recently, we also welcomed leaders in the skincare profession to share their predictions on the future of skincare at the stunning Hotel Palisade for our regular Round Table discussion. Guests shared their valuable knowledge throughout the event. Check out the highlights (page 72). So you have the beauty business idea and now it’s time to implement it? Just how do you choose a concept that is right for you with so many options on the market from the boom in online retailing to the traditional bricks and mortar set-up. We chat to three leading salon owners about the pros and cons of their start up model and the lessons they have learnt along the way (page 92). We also check in with Professional Beauty Solutions managing director Matt Williams for tips on how to adapt and thrive in the industry (page 94). Other highlights from this edition include a chat with makeup artist Victoria Curtis in our Career How I Got Here section – she shares her secrets on creating a successful range and her plans for expansion (page 104). We hope you enjoy this edition packed with the latest products, innovation and advice from our experts. Enjoy!

FOLLOW US:

41 Bridge Road, Glebe NSW 2037 Ph: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419 www.intermedia.com.au AUSTRALIAN SUBSCRIPTION RATES 1yr (6 issues) for $89.00 (inc GST) 2yrs (12 issues) for $160.20 (inc GST) 3yrs (18 issues) for $213.60 (inc GST) To subscribe and to view other overseas rates visit www.intermedia.com.au or Call: 1800 651 422 Email: subscriptions@intermedia.com.au Average Total Distribution: 8,879 AMAA/CAB Yearly Audit Period ending 31 March 2018.

Copyright © 2018 BHA MEDIA Pty Ltd.

MICHELLE I CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT…

JENNY

SANJA

“IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream with SPF 50 in the day and Jane Iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream at night.”

MY FAIL PROOF SUMMER MUST HAVE

MY HANDBAG SUMMER ESSENTIAL IS…

“I know it’s a beauty industry cliché but I wear sunscreen every single day – I don’t leave home without it and reapply it at least once during the day.”

“Payot Sun Sensi Creme SPF 50+. Shiseido Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF 35 is another one which I never leave home without.”

Michelle Ruzzene

Jenny Berich

Sanja Spuzanic

Beauty Editor mruzzene@intermedia.com.au

Online editor jberich@intermedia.com.au

Group Art director sspuzanic@intermedia.com.au

This publication is published by BHA MEDIA, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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PB RADAR

On our RADAR

THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND EVENTS THAT PRO BEAUTY IS CURRENTLY CRUSHING ON CHRISTMAS

DELTA GOODREM

Eek. Christmas is coming. Which means festive gift packs need to be ordered to ensure they arrive in time for your salon to maximise its retail offerings. Jot down a note to self!

The homegrown beauty was in town recently to launch her perfume at Chiswick, Sydney, and when a waiter knocked over a glass, the songstress immediately bent down to help pick up the broken pieces. Respect.

Dermaviduals The Essentials Oily Christmas Gift Pack

BRANDS GOING BLUE NAIL FEST

Following on from the success of the inaugural Melbourne Nail Festival, co-founder Viv Simmonds from VIVid Nail and the exclusive importers of Akzentz Professional Gel Products and Beautyworld’s Ray Daley will be heading to South Australia to host the trade only event. Viv and Ray reveal it is a great chance for salon owners and educators to get together and explore the latest trends. The festival will be held on October 28th from 9.30am-4pm. For details check out: www.stickytickets.com.au

SUNSCREEN

A recent study published in the Dermatologic Surgery journal found that applying a broad spectrum sunscreen daily may visibly reverse the signs of existing photo damage. The study, titled ‘Daily Use of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Significantly Improves Clinical Evaluation of Photoaging’ has given us yet another reason to slip, slop, slap.

Clean, natural, organic, vegan and green are all words trending heavily in the beauty industry. Now brands are going one step further by going ‘blue’, which means the brand makes an active contribution to leave the planet better than we found it.

ANTI-WRINKLE RADAR

Dr Daniel Lanzer is concerned with unhygienic and non-medical conditions in which muscle relaxants are being performed in Australia. To encourage clients against visiting these types of clinics, he is offering 10 units free in his clinics across Melbourne, Brisbane and Sydney at www.drlanzer.com.au/free

FOLLOW PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY: facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyAust @pro_beauty_aus @ProBeauty_Aust linkedin.com/company/professional-beauty

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World’s First Digital and Bluetooth Micro-Needling Platform More Speed. More Power. More Precision. More Safety. Here are the 12 reasons why you should join the Dermapen 4 Revolution: 1. 7 Year Warranty 2. New Scar Treatment Setting 3. Revolutionary 16 Needle Cartridge Design 4. Superior AOVN™ 4 Technology 5. ACM™ - Anti-Contamination Management 6. Sleek Digital Display with One Touch Integrated Procedural Settings 7. Dual Power Operation 8. Built-in RFID Needle Cartridge 9. AOVN™ Retention Valves 10. Bluetooth Enabled Connectivity 11. Ergonomic Design 12. Marketing Support to Drive More Patients into Clinics

INSKIN COSMEDICS are offering a $1,000 (incl GST) TRADE-IN VALUE* for your current micro-needling device to TRADE-UP to the brand new Dermapen 4. *Conditions apply

Want to join the Dermapen 4 Revolution?

For more information or to book in a presentation of the Dermapen 4 with an INSKIN COSMEDICS BDM contact (02) 9712 8188

MEDICAL AESTHETIC SOLUTIONS

INSKINCOSMEDICS.COM

TEAM@INSKINCOSMEDICS.COM

+61 2 9712 8188


NEWS

in BRIEF THE END OF DIGITAL DISTORTION Dove has introduced a ‘No Digital Distortion Mark’ to reassure consumers that all its images featuring women are ‘real’. The Mark will be incorporated into all Dove static imagery (print, digital and social) featuring women by January 2. According to the company, the Mark will ensure that Dove is held accountable to only show accurate and genuine portrayals of women as they appear in real life. The creation of the Mark follows the release of the Dove Global Beauty and Confidence Report which shows that women have lost trust in what they are viewing. CHINA OPENS DOOR BUNNIES China has the opened the door to its lucrative $60 billion cosmetics market a little wider to companies that want to enter without testing their products on animals. Chinese authorities have signed an agreement with Cruelty Free International to allow foreign companies with ‘Leaping Bunny certified cosmetics’ to manufacture and market their products in China. The ‘ground-breaking pilot scheme’ will enable the companies to avoid testing on animals by producing cosmetics in China that don’t need post-market testing. Cruelty Free CEO Michelle Thew said the scheme “could benefit animals, consumers and cruelty free companies”. LASER CLINICS HITS 100 Ten years after opening its first clinic, Laser Clinics Australia is celebrating the opening of its 100th salon. Located in Wendouree, a suburb in Ballarat, the new clinic will deliver the franchise’s popular “laser hair removal, skin treatments and cosmetic injections” to the local community. Laser Clinics Australia head of marketing Nicole West said the company has set the standard for “industry best customer service, safety, accessibility and affordability” since launching in 2008. “Our team of more than than 140 doctors and registered nurses now delivers four million treatments annually.” SYDNEY SALON BACKPAYS $25,000 A Sydney hair and beauty salon operator has backpaid casual workers more than $25,000 following an investigation by the Fair Work Ombudsman. Ohmed, which operates the OKS Hair and Beauty Salon in Lidcombe, underpaid seven workers a total of $25,045 between March 2016 to May 2017. The business escaped legal action by fully co-operating with the FWO under the terms of an Enforceable Undertaking which required it to back pay the workers, overhaul its workplace practices and donate $5000 to the Marrickville Legal Centre.

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WRINKLES SCHMINKLES TAKES ON SHARKS Three years after launching its wrinkle-fighting silicone pads onto the Australian market, Wrinkles Schminkles has taken on everyone’s favourite sharks – the stars of Network Ten’s Shark Tank. Although company founder Gabrielle Requena didn’t garner any investment from the five sharks (Steve Baxter, Janine Allis, Andrew Banks, Naomi Simson and Dr Glen Richards), her appearance on the TV show attracted 500 online sales within two days – and 40 new salon stockists within a week. Requina said she primarily went on the show to secure an investment from entrepreneur Andrew Banks, who she thought would be able to help Wrinkle Schminkles gain mass distribution in the US. Although Banks said ‘no’ to investing in the business, largely due to concerns that others would “copy the product”, Baxter offered $300,000 for a 40-something percent stake but Requina said ‘no’ as she was only willing to give up to 18 percent for such a sum.

MAKEUP WINS WAR AGAINST AGEING Makeup is still the best weapon in the fight against ageing ‒ at least temporarily ‒ according to a new study published in the British Journal of Psychology. The study, by Richard Russell, an associate professor of psychology at Gettysburg College, found that 40 and 50-year-old women appeared “significantly younger” when wearing makeup. The study, conducted in collaboration with researchers from Chanel Fragrance & Beauty Research & Innovation, featured 32 women in four age bands (around 20, 30, 40 and 50 years). Each woman’s face was photographed with no makeup and with four makeup looks (Skin and Lips, Skin and Eye Region, Full Face Natural and Full Face Intense). Participants were then asked to estimate the age of each face on a scale ranging from 10 to 70. According to Russell, the 40 and 50-year old-women were perceived as younger when they had makeup on as makeup accentuates three youth-related visual features ‒ skin homeogeneity, facial contrast and facial feature size.


B O O ST S K I N C A R E R E S U LTS W I T H P R O F E S S I O N A L T R E AT M E N TS

When expert recommendation is followed with advanced homecare, the results are long-lasting. Discover more today. www.medik8.com.au

@medik8australia 1800 242 011


NEWS

in BRIEF FAKE BUYERS ARE BEING DUPED Despite the dramatic growth in counterfeit cosmetic sales in recent years, the majority of consumers who bought them weren’t aware that they were doing so, according to a new survey by virtual beauty app Perfect365. The apps’ survey of 5800 people found that 86 per cent “have never knowingly purchased counterfeit cosmetics” and nearly half (48 per cent) were unaware of recent media reports about the harmful ingredients contained in counterfeit cosmetics. These include glue, urine and rat droppings. PARIS LAUNCHES SKINCARE LINE Paris Hilton launched her Paris Hilton Skincare line to beauty professionals at Cosmoprof North America in Las Vegas. The 37-year-old’s new line is made up of just four products ‒ a dual action cleansing gel, a lift and firm eye cream, a face and décolletage cream and an advanced recovery serum – based on ‘GenoMatrix’’ ‒ “a revolutionary formulation of powerful enzymes derived from marine microalgae” and “natural active ingredients”. P&G BUYS FIRST AID BEAUTY Proctor & Gamble, the owners of SK-II and Olay, has purchased First Aid Beauty (FAB) for a reported US$250 million. Announcing the acquisition, FAB founder Lilli Gordon said the company is thrilled to be “a part of the P&G Beauty family”. “When I launched First Aid Beauty in 2009, I was on a rescue mission to address the needs of sensitive skin (like mine) and provide clean, feel-good formulas that really work,” she said. “Almost a decade later … our brand has grown tremendously, and I am so excited to enter into this next chapter with the global reach and resources of P&G Beauty.” ENDOTA SPA MOVES INTO DJS Endota spa, the largest chain of day spas in Australia, has launched its endota Organics skincare products into the mass retail market. The range will be stocked in nine David Jones stores ‒ Elizabeth Street, Bondi Junction and Miranda (NSW); Bourke Street Mall and Chadstone (Vic); Queens Plaza (Qld), Adelaide Central Plaza, Hay Street Mall (Perth) and Canberra Centre‒ as well as at davidjones.com. Announcing the move into the mass retail market, endota Spa CEO Melanie Gleeson said “the availability of our products [in David Jones] will ensure that women are taking the essence of our treatments home and practising muchneeded self-care rituals outside the spa.”

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REINVENTING THE NAIL POLISH BOTTLE LID LBK Nails is revolutionising the way consumers choose the colour of their polish with an innovative lid that allows them to ‘try on’ a colour without opening the actual bottle. Every lid features a hinged plastic nail tip painted with polish the same colour as that in the bottle − consumers simply flip the nail tip and lay it over one of their fingernails to see how it will look on their hands. Tony Kemeny, the founder of the California-based nail company, says the new patent-protected nail polish bottle lid is “a game changer for the nail industry”. Kemeny, who has worked in the professional nail care industry for 30 years, says it took “tireless research over the last four years” to develop the “universally practical product”. “Its design is useful to both professional nail techs and at-home consumers.” He explains that retailers like the new lid as it makes messy in-store displays a thing of the past as “bottles and retail displays aren’t damaged (by people opening bottles to test colours), no product testers are needed, and customers have fewer returns” while consumers like the fact that “there is no more getting home to find the colour they bought in the store looks totally different when they put it on”. Launched in the US just three months ago, LBK Nail Lacquer, available in 48 colours featuring the new lid, is now sold online and stocked at a number of independent salons and stores across the US. “LBK is the perfect way to boost a client’s in-salon experience,” says Kemeny.

TBN OUTPERFORMS GLOBAL COMPETITORS Total Beauty Network, the distributor of Inika Organic, Raww Australian Organics, Colour by TBN and Designer Brands, has increased sales by 38 percent in the last 12 months. Celebrating the Australian company’s success at the Inika international sales conference, CEO Tony Rechtman said the growth rate was nine times higher than the cosmetics industry average of four percent (Statista Annual Growth of the Global Cosmetics Market 2016-2017). Held at the company’s head office in Melbourne, the seven-day conference attracted 90 Inika team members from the US, Canada, the UK and Europe as well as Australia and New Zealand. Inika Organic global brand manager Celia Trevisani said the brand’s sales had grown “52 percent since 2017” with a good portion of that being driven by sales in Australia and New Zealand. “I can’t wait to see where the number lands at the end of 2018 as we are experiencing uptake like never before, bolstered by our commitment to supporting salons and spas with targeted promotions and a dedicated and growing sales and customer service team.” She said the conference included “dedicated strategy and planning workshops for each and every region” where Inika teams “worked tirelessly on country and channel-specific tactics to build on the increased brand awareness and growth”.


Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

Cosmopack Awards Asia and Cosmoprof Awards Asia in partnership with Beautystreams will honour the most innovative packaging and the most impressive finished products. SKINTONIC The Factory & The Shop, a live journey of a luxury skin care serum, from production to the experience in store. powered by COSM

powered by C

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OPROF ASIA

CosmoTalks and CosmoForum: Educational sessions in 2 venues focusing on Ingredients & Packaging, Trends, Market Analysis, Spa & Wellness and more.

OF OCCASION

On Hair, the event dedicated to the hair sector in HKCEC with hair shows, seminars and competitions. Cosmoprof Onstage, a place for beauty and hair live shows and demo sessions in HKCEC, will showcase the latest beauty trends! CosmoLab in AWE offers an unique hair analysis by AI Hairbot in a fun and interactive way, you will receive a special formulated shampoo! Enjoy the charity shopping at Boutique in HKCEC, and donate to Chi Heng Foundation to help AIDS impacted children in China.


NEWS

in BRIEF BEAUTY EXPO SHINES IN BRISBANE The fourth annual Brisbane Hair and Beauty Expo “entertained, inspired and educated” nearly 7000 industry professionals over two action-packed days at the Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre. Event manager Jason Greenhalgh said he was extremely excited with this year’s Expo and the event’s future potential as it attracted visitors from around Queensland a well as Darwin, Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and New Zealand. “We are so appreciative of the industry support of the 2018 Expo...they have voted with their feet as this industry event continues to go from strength to strength.” MURAD AUSTRALIA WINS Just one year after launching onto the local market, Murad Australia has been recognised for its early sales success with an award at the Murad International Conference in California. The Australian team won the Best in Class Perfumery Expression award for its merchandising and sales performance in Sephora Australia which saw it grow to a Top 10 skincare brand at the retailer in the first half of this year after launching at #53. MAKEUP WITH BENEFITS Almost all American women now use makeup with skincare benefits, according to global information company The NPD Group. Ninety percent of the women surveyed in the company’s 2018 Makeup In-Depth Consumer Report said they use makeup with skincare benefits. Sixty-two percent said they use makeup with moisturising benefits and over one-third used foundation that minimies pores. Fortunately ‘makeup with benefits’ does not appear to be replacing consumers’ skincare routines, as two-thirds of women stated they use these makeup products in addition to skincare offering the same benefits. NAIL SALON FINED $130,000 The Fair Work Ombudsman has fined an Alelaide nail salon $130,000 for exploiting two young, migrant workers and creating false records in an “elaborate sham” to try to cover it up. Minh Gia Le, who previously operated the nail salon, has been fined $30,000 and his company House of Polish Central, which currently operates the salon, has been fined a further $100,000, in the Federal Circuit Court. Le and his company admitted underpaying two nail technicians at the salon, which traded as Global Nail and Beauty and/or House of Polish Central, a total of $53,021 between November 2014 and March 2016.

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PBS GETS LÜK-Y Professional Beauty Solutions has added Lük Beautifood – the creator of beauty products made from ‘active foods’ – to its stable of brands. Established by Sydney-based food scientist Cindy Lüken, Lük’s hero product is Lip Nourish Sheer Natural Lipstick. Available in 12 colours/flavours, the “100 percent natural, toxin-free” lipstick is made from “the foods you eat for beautiful skin” – avocado oil, sesame seed oil, castor seed oil, cocoa bean butter, citrus and spice oils, corn flour and lecithin – without any “synthetic dyes, artificial flavours, synthetic fragrances, parabens, phthalates, mineral and nut oils, synthetic emollients, silicone or lanolin”. Cindy says she decided to launch Lük Beautifood 10 years ago after seeing how lipstick was made. “As a food scientist I was intrigued to delve deeper into the process,” she says. “After some researching I quickly understood that lipsticks are made of oils, waxes, butters, binders, colours and flavours and that the recipe looks a lot like a chemical cocktail rather than the skin healthy recipe it could be. “This simple fact inspired me to create innovative makeup by swapping in extraordinary quality skin foods without adding synthetics and hazardous chemicals for outer beauty and inner
health.”

VENUS SET TO LAND IN OZ Venus Skin, a “synthesised human stem cell skin care range”, will be landing in Australia soon. Speaking at the brand’s launch in Sydney, Venus Concept chief physicianscientist, Dr John Sanderson, said the products are formulated with bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells ‒ “the only proven anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing stem cell”. “Our bodies use stem cells to heal tissue injury and decay throughout our life,” he said. “Stem cells deliver the very growth factors responsible for collagen production, epidermal thickening, and for commanding all nearby cells to stimulate healing and repair. “As we age, these growth factor-rich cells dramatically decline in number and our skin consequently receives fewer of these molecular healing messages and skin begins to show signs of ageing. Venus Skin’s products supply the skin with a healthy dose of these pro-healing bio-signals, turning back the clock on ageing and rejuvenating the look and feel of skin.” Dismissing any concerns about the human source of the cells, Dr Sanderson said the bone marrow stem cells were “medically aspirated from young, healthy, and pre-screened donors”. “Once the cells have been cultured in a laboratory, we are able to harvest and extract the powerful growth factors and cytokines inside, and discard the cell itself. Our products do not contain any inflammatory cells, cell fragments, RNA, or DNA.”



NEWS

in BRIEF INNISFREE OPENS IN MELBOURNE After 18 years of global expansion, Korea’s #1 beauty brand Innisfree has opened its first store in Australia. Located in Melbourne Central, the store will stock over 600 skincare, makeup and hair care products. Innisfree Australia general manager Brian Jeong said the brand offers innovative beauty solutions powered by the finest ingredients found on Korea’s pristine Jeju Island which “thanks to its volcanic origins” is a fertile oasis with “a unique ecosystem of powerful ingredients to nurture beautiful skin”. VEGAN MARKET TAKES OFF The global vegan cosmetics market is projected to grow 6.5 percent a year to reach US$20.8 billion by 2025, according to Grand View Research. The company’s new ‘Vegan Cosmetics Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis’ report predicts that “spiralling demand” among millennials will be one of the primary growth stimulants in the market, which was worth approximately US$12.9 billion last year, for the next seven years. “Consumers worldwide are becoming increasingly aware about effects of their purchasing preferences and patterns on society and the environment,” said the report. TURNING AUSTRALIA INTO AN ORGANIC NATION? Vanessa and George Jilly, the couple at the forefront of the success of Jurlique, Aveda and Uspa in Australia, are now celebrating the success of their own brand, Organic Nation, around the country. Speaking at a mini-launch in Sydney, Vanessa told salon and media guests that the range, which was launched in the US in late 2016 and in Australia late last year, “is building a bridge between the two worlds of spa and meditreatments”. Vanessa and her partner George Jilly helped launch Jurlique into the salon market in 1989 and then later launched Aveda into Australia in 1997 before eventually launching their own range, Uspa, in 1999. PRO MAKEUP TRAINING NOW ONLINE The Sydney-based Institute of Makeup Artistry (IMUA) has launched an online education platform for aspiring makeup artist professionals. Designed to be completed over six to twelvemonths, the course covers “wedding makeup to special effects and everything in between” and provides access to mentoring and support from industry professionals. IMUA chief executive Anthony Mondello said the institute created the course to meet the increasing demand for education for aspiring makeup artists .

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‘FAT REDUCTION’ TOPS THE MOST WANTED LIST Fat reduction was the most researched minimally invasive treatment category last year, according to the world’s leading cosmetic treatment research website. RealSelf, which had 94 million people visit its website to research elective cosmetic treatments in 2017, reports that searches for fat reduction treatments surpassed searches for

fillers and toxins (eg, Botox) during the year. In addition fat reduction devices (CoolSculpting, Smart Lipo and Sculpsure) accounted for nearly one-third of the top 10 most researched branded laser and energy treatments in the same year. The growth in demand for fat reduction was one of the four key trends identified in the RealSelf’s inaugural US Laser & Energy Report. The report also found that interest in vaginal rejuvenation treatments is rising amid high consumer satisfaction; that new facial lasers are gaining traction; and that the popularity of laser hair removal is continuing to grow: Launching the report, Self founder and CEO Tom Seery said the overall interest in laser and energy device treatments on RealSelf grew 10.5 percent in 2017, and five of the top 10 most researched minimally invasive categories on RealSelf included treatments using a laser or energy device. “RealSelf attracts millions of consumers every month and has become a barometer of aesthetic interest and demand. “Based on consumer interest and review patterns we see on RealSelf, we expect to see interest in treatments using laser and energy devices continue to rise.”

VV CREAM HEADED DOWN UNDER Launched in Denmark last year, the first luxury line of skincare targeting “the V-area” is likely to be available in Australia soon. The Perfect V collection is made up of eight ‘VV’ products (a gentle wash, beauty sheets, an exfoliator, a beauty cream, an intensive beauty cream, a serum, a beauty mist and a luminiser) designed to “rejuvenate, enhance and beautify the V area”. Created by Avonda Urben, a former marketing executive and consultant for beauty brands including Revlon and L’Oreal, the skincare line is made from “Scandinavian-sourced ingredients and vitamin-infused with antiageing properties”. Urben says she thought of the concept for the line while working on a BB cream for a client. “I thought of the name ‘VV Cream’ and instantly thought it would be great to have a line of multi-tasking products for the V area.” After researching the market, Urben quickly discovered there weren’t any luxurious or pampering beauty products for the V area despite the fact that “women all over the world are removing hair by waxing, layering, shaving, sugaring, using depilatories and/or just trimming”. The Perfect V is now sold in 13 countries as well as around the world via the brand’s e-commerce site. Urben stresses that the ‘V’ refers to the actual shape of “the bikini area” that the products are designed to treat – and is an ideal descriptor as it can be referred to without any embarrassment”. She is now looking for “upscale salons, spas and beauty retail environments” to stock the PH-balanced, dermatologist- and gynaecologist-tested brand in Australia.


Call today for an obligation free consultation on how Pelactiv can increase sales and services in your business.


THE RELAUNCHING OF

Priori You started as a partner of Priori in 2006 – tell us what attracted you to this brand originally? “Priori to me was a leader in the cosmeceutical skincare market and I was impressed by the brand’s innovative technology. I was excited to join the team back in 2006 knowing that I was working with a brand that delivered outstanding results and is backed by clinical evidence.”

What is it that makes you passionate about the skincare market? “The advances in technology and also knowing that we are providing therapists and consumers with products that deliver big results. This ultimately leads to creating self-confidence and higher self-esteem for our customers. I also love that there are opportunities for not only the big companies but also the smaller, smart and innovative indie brands.”

How is Priori different? “Aside from the obvious like packaging and branding, the new Priori has some exciting new formulas including the Q+SOD to give the skin

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Regis Haberkorn, President of Priori unveils the brand’s new look. the ultimate in antioxidant protection. This advanced formulation works to mimic how natural antioxidants function within the skin to offer supreme correction and protection to your cells. It’s an outstanding combination that we are very proud of. Priori continues to offer advanced skincare technologies for visible correction of the skin. Skincare professionals are reassured by the efficacy of our products that are supported with clinical evidence. All clinical studies are done on particular ingredients results, and then also on the end formulation which gives skincare professionals confidence in knowing they are using products that have been proven.”

In January 2017 you were appointed President of Priori and focused on developing new products and rebranding – tell us what was your new vision for the brand? “Consumers are looking for products that work for their unique needs and help them reach their optimum skin goals. Everyone wants to be selfie-ready, look their best, or improve their current skin condition so a one-fits-all approach just doesn’t work anymore. Our vision for the brand is to give our customers everything they need in a concise range that is adaptive and works in real-time to deliver big results. Every Priori product is formulated to customise its effects, totally dependent on the specific nature of your skin. Regardless of your skin condition and, perhaps more interestingly, as you move from one environment to another, the product continues to maximise its effect. A personalised approach supported by clinicals.”


COVER STORY

How did you develop this?

What product is the most popular?

“I work together with a group of industry veterans including Joe Lewis who was the original Founder of the brand and who continues to remain as the Chief Scientific Officer. As a team we reviewed all the formulations in the Priori brand and whilst we kept some of the original formulations we have most certainly worked to bring new formulations including the Q+SOD range and coming later this year the Triple Turmeric Complex – an all-natural skincare collection.”

“Our DNA fx221 Recovery Serum is a cult product. This skin boosting serum delivers DNA enzymes and Vitamins C and E when your skin needs it the most, as well as helping to repair and reverse past DNA damage.”

What has changed about the brand and how did your loyal customers react?

“Our Q+SOD compound is a combination of highly concentrated CoQ10 and Superoxide Dismutase. Both of these enzymes work at the cellular level to block and neutralise free radicals in different ways. It adapts its cellular action to what your skin is exposed to for a better, more customised action.”

“We’ve been overwhelmed by customers reaching out to us via email, social media and through face-to-face interactions where they tell us how much they love the new-look Priori as well as the new Q+SOD range. The support for the brand has been fantastic and Beauty Professionals couldn’t be more excited. I was recently in Australia to launch Priori to the media. Following this we had Tracy May-Harriott our International Education Manager & Brand Ambassador launch the brand to Beauty Professionals around the country and the response was very positive.”

Describe for us the new category Adaptive Skincare? “Each person’s skin chemistry is very different, and this is why ‘one size fits all’ skincare doesn’t work perfectly for everyone’s unique needs. Priori is skin science created to respond to your individual environment, nutrition and genetics. Adaptive skincare products decode your skin’s individual needs, delivering replenishment, hydration, protection and recovery all day long. Using incredible advancements in biotechnology, the Priori formulas respond in real-time to deliver the results at the cellular level.”

How was this developed for the Priori range? “We looked carefully at what formulations we had and how products interacted with the skin. At Priori, we know the mechanism of action at the biological level, so we know that by adding certain complexes to each product we would allow the skin to pull what it needs when it needs it, making the product adaptive to skin in real-time.”

Continuing our commitment to leadership in skincare biotech development, Priori will be launching our first natural adaptive skincare line – Priori Triple Turmeric Complex (TTC). A turmeric-based formula that delivers outstanding results to the eco-conscious consumer while continuing in the Priori tradition of providing customized solutions to every person. Free of harmful chemicals, these TTC compounds use the most potent botanical complexes to deliver the personalised results you demand. Safe, natural, clean and powerful in a combination that enables you to realise your ideal skin. All Priori TTC products feature an exclusive, highly potent natural compound of 3 kinds of colourless turmeric root plus green tea, grape seed and licorice for a powerful multi-functional adaptive action: antioxidant, brightening and anti-inflammatory. Our natural and clean formulas are free of sulfates, SLS and SLES, parabens, formaldehydes, formalde- hyde-releasing agents, phthalates, mineral oil, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban.

Any hero ingredients that you can share with us?

You travel the globe what do you see as the main skincare trends? “I see the need for personalisation, a focus on a higher level of education when it comes to skin, a strong focus on treatments and ingredient technologies. Natural continues to be a trend that is growing and we will address this with our new Triple Turmeric Complex later this year.”

Do you have any advice for those starting out in the skincare industry? “Focus on your education and work with brands that really deliver on their promise. There’s many me-too brands in the market now with no clinical evidence. Be ethical and be passionate – if you love what you do and truly want to give your clients the best results; you will succeed.”

How important is it to have a clear brand message and vision? “In a cluttered environment having a clear brand message is critical. With the relaunch of Priori our message is simple and easy for the consumer to understand – we are Adaptive Skincare.”

How can brands remain competitive today in such a hugely saturated market? “Be true to themselves, offer an innovative approach and build an authentic presence through their media channels. I also believe having a great value proposition is important to remain competitive.” The new range will launch during November 2018 in Australia. n www.prioriskincare.com.au or 1800 808 993.

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VIEWPOINT

Preventing another DERMAL FILLER DISASTER… Following Australia’s first case of blindness caused by dermal filler, industry experts share their thoughts on what needs to be done to ensure it doesn’t happen again. AN AUSTRALIAN WOMAN has been left permanetly blind in one eye after having a dermal filler injection at a Sydney beauty clinic in April. Although over 100 cases of permanent blindness from dermal fillers have been reported around the world in recent years, it is the first such case reported in Australia. During a panel discussion at the 2018 NonSurgical Symposium on the Gold Coast, it was revealed that the woman attended the clinic to “improve the shape of her face” but just hours later was declared legally blind in one eye. A delegate at the symposium told Professional Beauty that the woman had an adverse reaction to an injection of hyaluronic acid filler and was therefore taken to a hospital for treatment where she was declared legally blind. Details about the case (including the site of the injection) remain scant but nonetheless the site, whether it’s the nose, tear troughs, cheeks or somewhere else, is largely irrelevant, as blindness can occur from any dermal filler injection on the face if the filler enters the facial artery and blocks the ocular nerve. Most importantly, the fact is a woman was left blind after having the treatment and the industry must do its best to ensure it doesn’t happen again. We asked industry leaders around Australia a simple question: What do you think should be done to reduce the risks associated with dermal filler procedures? Here are their views.

Dr Kate Jameson – medical director, Youth Lab “Sadly there are no minimum standards or accreditation in cosmetic medicine and the entire industry has become commercialised. The public now views cosmetic injectables and laser treatments as a commodity to be purchased at a shopping centre, not as medical procedures which carry risks and complications. This needs to stop. “To me as a medical professional; patient safety and duty of care always come first. Risk mitigation is essential, but as with any medical procedure, these

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cosmetic treatments carry inherent risks. Correct training and education, appropriate prescribing practices and adequate supervision by cosmetic physicians and surgeons on site in a medical environment should be the minimum standard. “Accreditation of cosmetic clinics (much like all other medical practices in Australia) is needed to ensure high standards in terms of hygiene, correct prescribing practices, compliance with poisons and radiation safety acts, and to ensure adequate emergency protocols and equipment are in place. “Strict emergency protocols and guidelines including in-clinic emergency resuscitation equipment, access to an oculoplastic surgeons, emergency departments and a hyperbaric oxygen chamber are needed to manage issues such as skin necrosis, neurological events, anaphylaxis and acute visual loss. “The public needs education to ensure that they attend a dedicated cosmetic clinic with an injector who is is experienced, has extensive training (not a two-day course held by a pharmaceutical company) and recognition within in the industry such as membership with one of the cosmetic colleges. “A doctor also needs to be on site to ensure patient safety and outcomes. Remote prescribing from another state is completely unacceptable. “The ultimate responsibility ends with the prescribing doctor. “Even the most experienced physician will encounter a complication with dermal fillers but it is their experience, diagnostic skills, clinical decision making and emergency training that will deliver the most optimal outcome for the patient.”

Nicole Montgomery – Trusted Surgeons founder “To reduce risk there should be a minimum set standard or level of training that needs to be regulated by a peak body. ‘‘There are several players in this market space including plastic surgeons, cosmetic surgeons, dermatologists, GPs, dentists, and of course, nurses. For there to be any form of standardisation, there needs to be a peak body that sets out minimum standards and levels of training. “Other key areas outside of basic education on injectables and the anatomy and structure of the face is location. I believe these procedures should be done in a medical-based business not in the back of a house or apartment. It should be mandatory to have basic emergency equipment in place that is regularly checked and maintained with appropriate emergency protocols set up to deal with emergencies.”

Joseph Hkeik – cosmetic physician, All Saints Skin Clinic “Understanding the anatomy of the face and the danger zone of the face are essentials. The most dangerous zones to inject with needles are the nasolabial folds (one of the first areas a beginner will attempt to learn as it is mistakingly perceived as safe), the nose, under the eyes and the glabellar area. Unfortunately you cannot learn these in a few hours… most doctors would have done two years of anatomy and further studies whilst specialising in aesthetic medicine. “Practitioners should have spent time studying the anatomy and how to recognise and treat complications (recognising the signs of complications early is essential


as time is of the essence if are trying to reverse potential damage) while pharmaceutical companies need to ensure the practitioners they sell to are all experienced as they often on-sell to other practitioners.”

Tina Viney – CEO, APAN “As dermal fillers are classified as S4 drugs there are several risks and there are several considerations to minimise these risks. The key ones are: • Ensuring that the injectable drug is reputable and TGA approved. • The client/patient has undergone a thorough consultation process for suitability of the procedure by a qualified medical practitioner or a nurse who is under the jurisdiction of a doctor prior to every procedure. • The injector is qualified specifically in cosmetic injectables and can provide evidence of on-going professional development to improve their skills and knowledge. • The practitioner has met the requirements of Medical Malpractice insurance.”

Mark Magnusson – president, ASAPS (Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons) “Non-surgical rejuvenations such as injectable fillers are popular and the demand for treatments to be cheap and accessible has led to risky practices. These practices include procedures being performed by untrained, or poorly trained providers and the no-frills service could be at the cost of essential safety equipment. “These treatments are invasive and although uncommon can have serious side-effects such as blindness and skin loss. The focus should be 100 percent on patient safety with reliable treatments and appropriate outcomes. In the interest of patient safety ASAPS supports the following four points: 1. High risk invasive procedures such as cosmetic injectables should be carried out under medical supervision. 2. Doctors and nurses involved in high risk invasive cosmetic procedures such as cosmetic injectables should participate in mandatory Continuing Medical Education by attending the Injectable Safety Anatomy Workshop and the Non-Surgical Symposium and be certified in the resuscitation and treatment of complications. Practitioners need to be able to identify the signs of complications and have the skills required to treat them. 3. Regulation of facilities where invasive cosmetic treatments are performed to ensure appropriate infection control and resuscitation equipment are present. 4. Transparency and truth in advertising and medical marketing.”

CUSTOM SPA EXPERIENCES

Carly Whytcross – dermal clinician, CAPS Clinic “In an unregulated industry, this was bound to happen and will continue to happen unless tighter restrictions and minimum standards of practice are adopted. ‘‘Used in moderation by qualified doctors, or experienced nurses where there are doctors on site to assist with any medical emergencies not via Skype, these products are very effective in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the contours of the face – they are however, not an alternative to surgical rejuvenation. If a patient’s issue is skin laxity then a facelift is the only real method to address this, seven syringes of anti-wrinkle injections are not the answer. ‘‘What concerns me the most is not just the amount of product being used but also the age of the patients this marketing is targeting. Due to the cheap prices and accessibility with clinics in malls offering this quick fix, young girls in their 20s are signing up. In my opinion they definitely do not need it and it worries me this industry is turning toward quick fixes for easy money, rather than responsible medical advice.”

Dr Jonathan Brown – Cityskin Cosmetic Clinic “I feel that we need to have a better relationship with the on call plastic surgeons and opthalmologists at local hospitals who can be contacted in the case of a serious emergency. I feel that cosmetic practitioners should offer immediate treatment in their clinics but patients should also be reviewed urgently in the hospital within the hour by specialists who can assist to try to save the eyesight. I would also welcome an emergency 1800 number, staffed by Plastics or Ophthalmology specialists who have an interest in cosmetics, which any practitioner can call for immediate advice on how to manage emergency filler complications. Funding for this would come from yearly registration fees paid for by each practitioner.” n

DISTRIBUTION VIC QLD WA NZ

BARNEYS PROFILE DEPOT BLISS

1800958260 0755937200 0893817670 0275765761

www.switchfunky.com 1800 700 510 (freecall) Authorised Importer and Exclusive Distributor of Salt of the Earth.


PROMOTION

PRO SKIN

TREATMENTS NEW Dermalogica Pro Power Peel the peel experience, redefined CELL TURNOVER SLOWS dramatically as we age, from approximately 20 days in younger and middle-aged adults up to over 30 days in older adults – and as this happens, it affects the skin’s appearance and texture in a variety of ways. While proven to be one of the most effective ways to address these changes, chemical peels aren’t a one-size-fits-all treatment. For optimal results, a peel should be strong enough to accelerate cell turnover but not so powerful as to induce severe skin inflammation. At Dermalogica, we’re constantly developing innovative ways to give skin therapists the tools to create completely customised treatments for a range of skin conditions. With this in mind, we’re excited to introduce the fully customisable and ultra-potent Pro Power Peel collection – giving skin therapists the flexibility to create bespoke peels that are perfectly suited to each client’s needs. Our strongest and fastest peel yet, the Pro Power Peel collection features a full suite of peel products, including Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). Both of these have a different molecular size and penetrates the skin to different degrees, allowing skin care professionals to create tailored treatments that effectively address a vast range of skin concerns – from early signs of ageing to uneven skin tone and breakouts. In short, the all-new Pro Power Peel redefines the peel experience – allowing skin therapists to give clients a different, custom peel with each treatment.

About the Pro Power Peel:

Each of the peels in this collection is efficacious enough to use alone. Used together, they allow skin therapists to create custom treatments that target a broad range of skin concerns. One-Step Prep: A leave-on prep solution that optimises penetration of Pro Power Peel solutions. UltraBright Peel: An ultra-effective brightening peel that targets the appearance of early signs of ageing with 30% Lactic Acid. AdvancedRenewal Peel: A powerful 30% Glycolic Acid peel that resurfaces skin to help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

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PowerClear Peel: A dynamic multi-acid complex featuring 2% Salicylic Acid with 10% Mandelic Acid, 15% Malic Acid and a patented TerpineolThymol Complex to target blemishes and the appearance of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Neutralizing Solution: A soothing neutraliser that helps normalise the skin’s natural pH. Availability: The all-new Pro Power Peel collection will be available to licensed professional skin therapists starting on September 7, 2018.

About Dermalogica:

Dermalogica® revolutionized the skin care industry when it emerged into the marketplace in 1986 with innovative formulations, which excluded common irritants, including SD alcohol, lanolin, mineral oil and artificial colors and fragrances. Jane Wurwand developed the products to better support the advanced curriculum she had developed a few years earlier for The International Dermal Institute, which she also founded. Wurwand led the company’s growth from an idea to the world’s most-requested professional skin care brand. Dermalogica® today is sold in more than 80 countries worldwide. Dermalogica products are available in select skin treatment centers on the recommendation of a qualified professional skin therapist in addition to the brand’s concept spaces located around the world. Dermalogica® is made in the USA, with its global operations based in Carson, just south of Los Angeles. To learn more about Dermalogica contact 1800 659 118 today.


INTRODUCING NEW!

pro power peel the peel experience, redefined 3 customisable chemical peels that work in synergy to deliver unparalleled medicalgrade results. Targeting a range of concerns from fine lines and wrinkles to acne and hyperpigmentation.


Scrub up Lift away dead skin cells and remove impurities to reveal brighter, smoother skin with these exfoliants and scrubs

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SKINCARE

LEFT Alpha - H Micro Cleanse Super Scrub Alpha-H 1800 659 777 Morgan Annie Rosehip Face Polish Morgan Annie 0439 626 039 Aspect Exfol L15 Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Medik8 Pore Refining Scrub Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433 Pelactiv Facial Refiner Deep Cleansing Scrub Pelactiv 1800 655 745 EveTaylor London Exfoliating Scrub Eve Taylor Australia 07 3200 3884 Nimue Exfoliating Enzyme – Nimue 02 9452 6230 Murad Skin Smoothing Polish – Murad 1800 687 237 Ultraceuticals Ultra Dual Microfoliant Ultraceuticals 02 9660 3066

ABOVE Skinstitut Glycolic Scrub 14% – Skinstitut 02 9460 7559 Guinot Perfect Radiance Exfoliating Cream Hamaya International 02 9737 9872 Madara Exfoliating Oil to Milk Scrub – Bio Beauty 02 9599 0423 Doctor Eckstein AHA Biofruit Complex Eckstein Australia Real Skin Care 1800 026 306 Bodyography Skin Microdermabrasion Scrub Bodyography 1300 263 964 Revision Skincare Finishing Touch Microdermabrasion Scrub Envogue Skin 0452 104 365 Environ Focus Care Youth + Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Toner – Environ Skincare 1300 888 708 Pure Fiji Exfoliating Scrub Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Peter Thomas Roth Peeling Gel Exfoliant Peter Thomas Roth 02 8880 9446 Amperna 10% Pro+ Resurfacing Lotion Amperna info@amperna.com

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Behind the Plump, firm, tighten and brighten with these hydrating sheet masks

Guinot Lift Firming Radiance Face Mask – Hamaya International 02 9737 9872 Mirenesse Power Lift Dermal Firming Face Mask – Mirenesse 1800 666 880 Eaoron Ultimate Botox Mask – Eaoron 02 8739 9958 Image Skincare Biomolecular Anti-Aging Radiance Mask – Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 M-Ceutic Essential Regenerating Mask – BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200 Société Rejuvenating Peptide Gel Mask – Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Ella Baché Intensive Extreme Regeneration Mask – Ella Baché 1800 789 234

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SKINCARE

MASKS

Cremorlab Aqua Tank Hydro Plus Water-Full Mask – Style Story admin@stylestory.com.au Teoxane RHA Hydrogel Face and Neck Mask – Mondeal Aesthetics 1800 633 830 Polatam Water Gel Extra Force Mask Brightening – Style Story admin@stylestory.com.au Foreo Make My Day UFO Activated Mask – Foreo sales@foreo.com Doctor Babor 3D Hydro Gel Face Mask - Babor Cosmetics Australia 1800 139 139 Charlotte Tilbury Instant Magic Facial Dry Sheet Mask – Charlotte Tilbury +44 1202 629527 Ultraderm Skin Renew Tissue Mask – Ultraderm 1300 660 297

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Mist-ical Quench thirsty skin with these face mists

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SPRAYS

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SKINCARE

LEFT Alpha-H Daily Essential Vitamin Mist – Alpha-H 1800 659 777 Alluring Minerals Rosewater Spritzer Alluring Minerals 0410 686 170 Murad Resurgence Hydrating Toner – Murad 1800 687 237 Kerstin Florian Rehydrating Neroli Water BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200 Dermaenergy Tone It Up – Clinic Care 1300 799 709 MAC Prep + Prime – MAC 1800 613 82 Endota Spa Organics Balance Me Mist – Endota Spa 03 5971 8700 Dermalogica Multi Active Toner – Dermalogica 1800 659 118 Ella Bache Radiance C Defensive Antioxidant Mist Ella Baché 1800 789 234

ABOVE Pelactiv Vita C+ Hydra Moist Toner – Pelactiv 1800 655 745 Kopari Coconut Rose Toner – Kopari spa@koparibeauty.com Ultraceuticals Ultra Balancing Skin Mist Ultraceuticals 02 9660 3066 Skindinavia Post Makeup Recovery Spray Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433 Thalgo Reviving Marine Mist – BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200 Vanessa Megan Rose Water Spray Vanessa Megan Skincare 02 9568 5264 Nimue Vitamin C Moisture Mist – Nimue 02 9452 6230 Skinstitut Multi Active Mist – Skinstitut 02 9460 7559 Ultraderm Skin Karma Hydration Toner – Ultraderm 1300 660 297

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SKINCARE

Esmi Skin Minerals The Uncomplicated Cleanser Makeup Cartel 1300 66 11 76

Guinot Longue Vie Decollete 50 - Hamaya International 02 9737 9872

Germaine de Capuccini Eye Contour C+ - Germaine de Capuccini Australia 1300 432 100

Alpha-H Liquid Laser Overnight Treatment Mask Alpha-H 1800 659 777

Beautè Pacifique Paradoxe Night Cream Beautè Pacifique Australia 03 9562 0513

Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel Single Retail Tube Dermalogica 1800 659 118

Environ Vita Botanical Mela-Fade Serum A + B Environ 1300 888 708

Medik8 White Balance Brightening Serum - Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011

Endota New Age Ultra Lite Oil-Free Moisturiser Endota Spa 03 5971 8700

Usana Celavive Replenishing Night Gel Usana Australia 1800 687 872

Dermatonics Clearskin Dermatonics 0430 582 508

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Experience true

Corneotherapy with a dermaviduals skin treatment... on us!*

Call now to book your appointment

1300 420 223 ee • Derm av y fr elt

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* Location conditions apply. Trade only. © Derma Aesthetics

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Skin friendly, that means NO... Fragrances • Preservatives • Emulsifiers SLS • Colours • Mineral Oils • Silicones

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SKINCARE

Priori Q+SODfx210 Active Skin Cleanser True Solutions 02 8332 1818 Mesoestetic Pollution Defense Ampoule Advanced Cosmeceuticals 08 9409 5433

Salt of the Earth Salt Glow Body Scrub - Switch Funky 07 5520 0464

SkinCeuticals H A Intensifier Multi-Functional Serum SkinCeuticals 1300 101 411

O Cosmedics Exfoliating Cleanser – InSkin Cosmedics 02 9712 8188

Panacée Certified Organic Global Anti-Ageing Cream Phyt’s Australia & New Zealand 1300 656 627 Sothys Noctuelle ChronoDestressing Sleeping Mask Sothys 1800 816 599

Nu Skin AgeLOC Tru Face Essence Ultra - Nu Skin 1300 687 546

Payot Suprême Jeunesse Lèvres Payot Cosmetics 02 9874 1166

Thalgo Source Marine Sleeping Cream BLC Cosmetics 02 9430 2200

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Restore, rejuvenate, renew

INVESTING IN, AND keeping up with, the latest technology can be a daunting task for any salon or clinic. But one clinic that has remained ahead of the curve is Skin Renu, located in Sydney’s inner west in leafy Balmain, who this year are celebrating their 10-year anniversary. Practice manager and partner Sylvia Down Partner said what had contributed most to their success was being prepared to invest in the best the industry had to offer in rejuvenation devices and to have highly experienced injectors with a good aesthetic eye. “We saw the need to invest in the best possible devices and we are proud to say we opened with Thermage,” she said.

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Technology is impacting beauty salons and changing the way they operate on a daily basis. Skin Renu is one clinic offering top nonsurgical treatments, writes Michelle Ruzzene.

RETAIL BRANDS STOCKED AT SKIN RENU

“We tested and researched • Rationale many devices, especially on • Medik8 ourselves and looked beyond the • Cosmelan hype to find what really delivered.” • Synergie They soon expanded their • DNA EGF Renewal devices to include the Fraxel Restore Dual (non-ablative laser treatment targeting ageing and sun damage), Clear+Brilliant (advanced technology gentle fractional laser treatment) and Omnilux (non-invasive LED light therapy that promotes facial rejuvenation). Sylvia said clients kept returning to Skin Renu because all the staff were dedicated professionals who were open, honest and caring to all clients that encouraged a holistic approach to beauty. “We help our clients on their personal journey by providing treatments that are tailored to help them look and feel their best at whatever age or stage they are,” she said.


WHAT IS THERMAGE? Thermage is a non-invasive, radiofrequency cosmetic procedure that helps smooth, tighten and contour skin. It uses RF energy to kick start the body’s own natural renewal process with a combination of heat energy to treat deep tissue and cooling effects to protect the skin’s surface using comfort pulse technology. The gentle vibrations are interspersed with cooling to the treatment as comfortable as possible. The procedure helps tighten existing collagen and stimulate new natural collagen growth. Immediate results are visible and continue to improve for up to six months, with results that can last for years. Follow-up treatments can help to ensure continued collagen growth in order to achieve optimum results. www.thermage.net.au

WHAT IS FRAXEL? Fraxel is a non-ablative laser treatment targeting ageing and sun damage. It penetrates the epidermis, targeting the deep layers of the skin for collagen remodelling and is designed to reduce pigmentation, discolouration, freckles, sun spots, age spots and acne scarring. The Fraxel Restore Dual has two lasers combined into one device. It uses skin resurfacing technology to renew and help maintain skin’s youthful glow with minimal discomfort and downtime. It is a fractional laser system that penetrates the skin down to the dermis without disrupting the skin’s protective outer barrier, to maximise safety and recovery time. More than half a million procedures have been performed worldwide. www.fraxel.com.au

SALON VIEW

“Caring about your appearance and wishing to look your best has become something men and women of all ages have embraced and it is wonderful to have so many choices.” Sylvia said each individual’s skin’s health and appearance were paramount to which treatment plan was prescribed to either maintain the skin’s appearance or correct changes to return the skin to a healthy, clear appearance. Skin Renu senior dermal therapist, Jessica Lynch, 37, said one of the most popular treatments at the clinic was Thermage. “Clients love it because it is downtime free and the gold standard for contouring, tightening and lifting,” she said. “Our regular clients also like that they can re-book yearly.” The mother-of-one said Thermage was an ideal treatment for any client that had noticed the firmness of their skin changing and wanted to improve their collagen base to tighten and lift the skin. “As an anti-ageing treatment, it is ideal for those who wish to reverse some of those changes by stimulating their own collagen,” she said. Jessica said Fraxel was also a popular treatment at the clinic because of its anti-ageing benefits. “Fraxel also addresses changes in the skin, fine lines, open pores and pigment simultaneously,” she said. “It is a little less popular as it does have downtime but the change in the skin’s appearance once healed is very dramatic.”

Jessica said her caring, nurturing personality and personal battle with acne as a teen saw her enrol in a Diploma of Beauty Therapy. After progressing to salon manager and training manager of new staff at The Beauty Room, Mosman, her desire for further education and knowledge in advanced skin treatments led her to enrol in Advanced Diploma of Dermal Therapy. “Being a working mother, this course was ideal as it allowed me to study via correspondence, work and be a mother – busy times,” she said. “At Skin Renu I’ve had the opportunity and privilege to work with some of the best equipment in the industry.” She said in order to determine the right treatment for her clients, she always asked them to explain thoroughly their concerns, expectations, needs and budget. “Through a process of elimination, considering factors such as lifestyle, budget and downtime, we establish a timeline or plan choosing the best treatment for the situation,” she said. Some of the other devices available to help clients achieve their goals include Infini (high intensity focused RF), Coolsculpting (nonsurgical fat-reduction treatment) Laser Genesis (medical grade laser technology that stimulates collagen through microsecond pulse), ThermiVa (vaginal rejuvenation) and they are about to launch Pico Genesis with the new generation Enlighten SR by Cutera (tattoo removal). It’s clear Skin Renu’s plans to continue to grow and offer their patients a variety of services by investing in technology is keeping them at the forefront of an industry that’s becoming more and more results-driven without being invasive. n Check out Professional Beauty’s Industry RoundTable for expert advice on investing in technology: www. professionalbeauty.com.au/industry-roundtable/ investing-in-technology. Contact Skin Renu on 02 9555 9506 or visit www. skinrenu.com.au.

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BUSINESS

10

ways to reduce

NO-SHOWS

Clients not showing up for appointments cause inconvenience, stress and loss of revenue. Joanne Neville shares these simple tips to avoid the dilemma.

1. Send appointment reminders

3. Take deposits or prepayment

One of the quickest and easiest ways to reduce no-shows is to automatically send appointment reminders to your clients. There are so many case studies that show automatic reminders decrease no-shows, save time and increase revenue. Make sure you customise your appointment reminders, choose when they are sent, write your own personalised message and select a contact method to use such as email or text.

If you experience a high no-show rate, you could try taking deposits or prepayment for appointments. By asking your clients to commit money to their appointment, it gives them real incentive to attend their booking. It’s important to customise deposits or prepayment to make them work for your business and clients. For example, your customers may only need the incentive of paying a 10% deposit to ensure they show up.

2. Tidy up your client database When it comes to sending appointment reminders, it’s important to have the correct contact details for your clients. If your client database isn’t as up to date as you’d like it to be, take the opportunity to fix it! There are so many ways to do this, particularly if your software system has a feature that allows your clients to securely enter and update their own information directly into their client card. Important! also ask your clients to specify their preferred contact method such as phone, email or text message – this way your appointment reminders and any other important news, events or information, will be more likely to reach them.

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4. Ask for full payment Alternatively you may offer services that are impossible to fill last minute and therefore asking for full, non-refundable payment prior to the appointment may be required to ensure you and your staff are still paid for your time regardless of whether they show up.

5. Use Online Booking Kitomba has found that if a client makes their appointment using online booking, the number of no-shows experienced reduces. Plus, depending on the software system you use, online


For beautiful skin at every age booking can automatically send a confirmation email to your clients. Reminding your clients more than once, can reduce the chances of them not showing up.

6. Have a no-show policy It’s really important to have a no-show policy to clearly set expectations with your clients. Your policy should clearly define what a no-show is and how much you’ll charge if they don’t turn up for their appointment. By clearly outlining your policy and sharing it with your clients via email, your website, and clearly displaying it in your salon, spa or clinic, it’ll help ensure they’re less likely to miss an appointment.

7. Follow up with missed appointments Sometimes clients genuinely don’t mean to no-show, they simply forget an appointment or double book themselves. Using your software system, automatically set up a “sorry we missed you” text message or email to send to no-shows. The message should let them know that they missed their appointment and encourage them to contact you as soon as possible to reschedule.

8. Add appointments to your client’s calendar It’s really important to ensure your clients know their appointment time when they make a booking. Use appointment cards or, if possible, your software system to send appointment details to your clients via email and text message. Ideally your email and text messages can allow your clients to automatically add their appointment to their calendar. The combination of an appointment reminder prior to their appointment and a calendar reminder at the time of the booking will increase the likelihood that your clients make their appointment.

9. Rebook no-shows Ensure that you reschedule a client that no-shows and let them know about your no-show policy. As a general rule, clients who miss an appointment will often make an effort to ensure they don’t miss the next one. It’s recommended that you reach out to clients who no-show as soon as possible. So wait 10 to 15 minutes and then give the client a call to check in with them.

Since 1949 Doctor Eckstein BioKosmetik® has been creating highly skincompatible products for all skin types by combining pharmaceutical expertise with the best nature has to offer.

10. Offer prepaid packages and concessions Clients who prepay for a series of visits are more likely to show up for those visits. This is because they’re committing in advance to visiting you. You can also include a policy whereby a missed appointment means a lost visit to outline how important it is that they show up. n Joanne Neville is the Chief Marketing Officer at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software. For further details visit: www.kitomba.com or call 1800 161 101.

1800 026 306 www.eckstein.com.au


Summer Flaunt a warm, sun-kissed complexion all year round with these bronzers

Babor Tri Colour Blush in Bronze - Babor Cosmetics Australia 1800 139 139 Erre Due Bronzing Powder in Tropical Bronze - Erre Due +30 210 283 5001 Colorscience Pressed Mineral Bronzer - Advanced Skin Technology 1800 648 851 Gorgeous Cosmetics Endless Summer Bronzing Powder - Gorgeous Cosmetics 1300 730 277 Alluring Minerals Pressed Bronzer in Endless Summer - Alluring Minerals 0410 686 170 Jane Iredale Moonglow Bronzer - Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008

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MAKEUP

Glow

Ultraceuticals CC Powder in Shade 5 Bronzer - Ultraceuticals 02 9660 3066 MoroccanTan Bronzing Powder - MoroccanTan 1300 181 281 Mirenesse Skin Clone Mineral Powder Foundation in Sunkissed Radiance - Mirenesse 1800 666 880 Nee Liquid Bronze - Nee Make Up info@neemakeup.be Pelactiv Loose Mineral Bronzing Powder in Exotic – Pelactiv 1800 655 745 Youngblood Mineral Radiance in Sunshine - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Morgan Annie Loose Mineral Blush in Light Medium Bronzer - Morgan Annie 0439 626 039 Brushes pictured are from Marc Jacobs, Crown Brush Australia and Glo Skin Beauty.

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MAKEUP Adorn Skin Radiance Liquid Mineral Illuminiser Adorn Cosmetics 03 9808 4422

Jane Iredale Triple Luxe Lipstick in Ella - Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Away Liquid Concealer Charlotte Tilbury +44 1202 629527

Curtis Collection Brow-Tint in Blonde Curtis Collection 07 3902 0723

Kylie’s Professional Mineral Goddess, Cheek and Lip Cream in Peachy – Kylie’s Professional 07 5576 4599

Lou Lou Lips Lipstick in James - Lou Lou Lips hello@louloulips.com

Inika Organic Brow Pallete Amber Total Beauty Network 1300 765 332

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Nouveau Lashes LVL Enhance Lash Lifting System - Bio Beauty Concepts 02 9281 4500

IT Cosmetics Brow Power - IT Cosmetics 03 8680 000


MORE THAN MAKEUP AUSTRALIAN OWNED • SALON EXCLUSIVE • ASSISTS WITH TREATMENT RECOVERY AND RESULTS ON TREND PRODUCTS • SKINCARE MAKEUP • PHARMACEUTICAL GRADE MINERALS CRUELTY FREE • HYPOALLERGENIC • PARABEN FREE • ONLINE STAFF MAKEUP TUTORIALS

Curtis Collection Cosmetics is an Australian owned mineral makeup brand offering on trend, skin care makeup designed to fast track the results of client’s treatments. Our products act as an extension of your client’s skin care routine, keeping pores clear, while nourishing, hydrating and protecting the complexion. Not only are our products good for the skin, they also create a luminous glow like no other. Our light reflective minerals create the illusion of a flawless complexion with our signature glow.

TO BECOME A CURTIS COLLECTION STOCKIST EMAIL INFO@CURTISCOLLECTION.COM.AU @curtiscollection

/curtiscollection

www.curtiscollection.com.au info@curtiscollection.com.au 07 3902 0723


Tickled Pretty nails never go out of style. Stay on trend with these creamy nudes, natural pastels and shimmery pinks

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PINK


NAILS

LEFT Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Posh Jessica Cosmetics 1300 470 648 Miss Frankie 5 Free Nail Polish in I Prefer Champagne Miss Frankie hello@missfrankie.com.au OPI Infinite Shine 2 in Made It To Seventh Hill International Beauty Supplies 03 9486 3211 Issada Nail Polish in Cath – Issada 07 3904 2288 Mavala Nail Color Pearl in 51 Melbourne Cosimer 03 9645 1933 Caption Nail Polish in OCD Proud Young Nails 07 2297 5466 Bio Sculpture Gel Nail Polish in 218 Bio Sculpture 1300 246 435 CND Vinylux Weekly Polish in Powder my Nose Pacific Nail & Beauty 07 5597 4555

ABOVE Miss Frankie 5 Free Nail Polish in Secret Soiree Miss Frankie hello@missfrankie.com.au Mavala Nail Color Pearl in 26 Seoul – Cosimer 03 9645 1933 Jessica Custom Nail Colour in Lavender Lush Jessica Cosmetics 1300 470 648 Bio Sculpture Gel Nail Polish in 199 – Bio Sculpture 1300 246 435 Orly Breathable in You Go Girl – Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Artdeco Art Couture Nail Lacquer in 807 United Brands Australia 1300 552 924 Caption Nail Polish in Ever Wonder? Young Nails 07 2297 5466 Orly Breathable in Nourishing Nude Hawley International 02 8667 1700 Zoya Professional Lacquer in Nadia SA Beauty Supplies 1300 855 644

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NAILS Evo2 by Bio Sculpture Cynthia Bio Sculpture Australia 1300 246 435

CND Shellac Luxe in Vivant Pacific Nail & Beauty 07 5597 4555

Young Nails Caption Nail Polish in So Far So Good Young Nails 1300 766 121

Jessica Cosmetics Phenom Summer Collection in Laffy Taffy - Jessica Cosmetics Australia 1300 470 648

Kester Black My Girl Ella - Kester Black 03 9078 2403

Zoya Professional Lacquer in Leisel - Zoya 1300 855 644

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Bio Sculpture Gel Polish in Subtle Silhouettes Bio Sculpture 1300 246 435



NAILS

THE CATWALK Taking a cue from Paris fashion week – nail art is making a return to romance with pretty pastel floral finishes and intricate detailing on bold backgrounds. It’s time to make a statement this season.

A

return to romance rocked the runway at Paris Fashion Week this season, with pretty pastels and intricate florals previewed by designers. It wasn’t just the fashion pack who were having all the fun – nail art specialists followed suit offering clients plenty of bold, statement nail art from delicate hand painted florals to statement tassels. Clare Yates, Bio Sculpture Head Nail Art Educator said the trends for the season ahead offer plenty of attention to detail. Evoke a rocker vibe with checks and stripes using Bio Sculpture Gel and EVO2 to create these looks along with a combination of Bio Sculpture and EVO colours to create nail art looks with detailing such as glimmering gold studs. Stand out and shimmer with glossy finished nails using a background colour of Silky Satin ombre and black detail with the High Pigment Gel Nail Art Kit to paint intricate fine lines. For the romantic, clients can choose hand painted flowers over a Gel Colour background finished with a gloss coat for pretty perfection.

www.biosculpture.com.au | 1300 BIO GEL

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L O VE 10 NON TOXIC

Free

100%

Hypo

ALLERGENIC

NO

ANIMAL TESTING

5 SAFETY TESTED

STAR

www.biosculpture.com.au


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TANNING

The Moroccan Effect Harnessing the important properties of naturally-derived and ethicallysourced ingredients from across the globe, the MoroccanTan range works effortlessly to create nourished skin and an envious all-over glow. Through the unrivalled properties unearthed in Pure Organic Argan Oil, it is the culmination of this powerful antioxidant, Organic Rosehip Oil, Organic Aloe Vera and a multitude of premium ingredients, that their renowned range ensures a deeper, richer and longer lasting seamless tan. Photography by Tiffany Mumford | Hair and Makeup by Carolyn Wren | Model Jet Zandbergen Interview by Anita Quade

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PURE INGREDIENTS Essaouira, Morocco – this bespoke photoshoot pays homage to our hero ingredient of pure organic Argan Oil. MoroccanTan demonstrates it’s more than just an aspirational marketing brand.

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MAKEUP TANNING

LEADING GLOW Australian owned and made, Moroccan Tan leads the way. Loved and embraced by tanning professionals worldwide and available throughout 30 countries with continuous growth.

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THE KEY TO COLOUR The release of a highly anticipated and exciting new product such as MoroccanAccelerated, a powerful, natural probiotic blend with Argan oil, comes the brand’s richest and most alluring application yet.

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Tanning Essentials Rapid Spray Tan System

Lisa Migliore MoroccanTan’s Brand Manager reveals the latest formulations and company innnovations...

Tell us how MoroccanTan was first established? “MoroccanTan was in development for over 2 years before launching into the Australian and NZ market in 2011 and then into the EU/UK in late 2013. Within the development period, we identified gaps within the industry and the demand for higher quality formulations that were more than ‘just a tan’ and had more science and innovation to them. These discoveries led us to the unrivalled passion of creating a brand that combined skincare and tanning to deliver exceptional quality and high-performance products.”

Moroccan Accelerated 30 Minute Tan

Moroccan Luminous Lotion

How does this tanning range differ from other products on the market? “We consider our supreme performance and unearthed hero ingredients, such as pure organic Argan Oil set us apart. However, overarching this is our “mindful beauty” approach which embraces many positive qualities, such as no animal testing, vegan-friendly, ethically sourced, organic and natural when possible and fair trade. It’s not enough for us to produce an amazing tan, we are always looking to push the boundaries and break the mould.” How have you seen the tanning industry evolve over the past decade? “Rapid tanning would have to be one of the most significant developments, this advance in technology welcomed a new community of tanners, with the lure of achieving a natural tan within a short timeframe and it has become a more desirable service. The focus has also shifted to incorporating premium ingredients into tanning solutions to assist in achieving not only the best result in colour and wear but simultaneously delivering a skin treatment. These advances are reinforced with a heavy focus on education.”

Moroccan Instant Dry Oil

Moroccan Blend + Buff Mitt

What is the most popular tanning item in your collection? “The success of our most recently launched professional solution MoroccanAccelerated is still riding the wave of popularity as people continue to discover and be excited by its new technology and high-performance ingredients. However, in saying that if we analyse our sales all of our products are still very evenly favoured which we contribute to having a range of products to suit all tanners, professionals and alike. As a brand, the addition of new products is to fill gaps, attract new professionals and consumers to our brand and to continue to pioneer and lead the tanning industry.” Do you have any other product launches in the pipeline? “We have just launched our Instant Dry Oil which has received impressive reviews. The idea behind this product was to create the darkest at home product, with a salon feel. The versatility of this product allows it to be applied and worn instantly and also mixed and matched within the MoroccanTan range. The inspiration was drawn from the popularity of our MoroccanAccelerated professional solution, initial sales have been exciting and we anticipate to expand the Accelerated range in the New Year.”

Moroccan Finishing Brush

Moroccan Bronzer

Moroccan Illuminator

MAKEUP TANNING

from THE SHOOT...

Any tanning tips you can share with salon owners? “My number one tip is to look after your equipment!! It’s an area that is often neglected and overlooked – for some reason many business owners and technicians do not service their machinery until it’s failed – preventative maintenance is key. Perhaps it’s due to the fact the level of investment for a spray tan machine has dropped progressively over time unlike other equipment such as LED and laser machines.” Your products include Argan Oil and are made from natural and organic products – how important are these key ingredients in the range? “Our key ingredients are the integrity and innovation of the brand – harnessing the important properties of naturally-derived and ethically-sourced ingredients from across the globe ensures our range works effortlessly to ensure a deeper, richer and longer lasting seamless tan. With each MorrocanTan experience, we reinforce our philosophy of the importance of skincare, delivering a nourishing treatment with each application.”

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TANNING Summer Kiss MediumDark Bronzing DryOil - Artav Australia 1800 805 276

Bondi Sands Professional Spray Tan Liquid Gold - Bondi Sands 1300 961 385

Marrakesh Tan - Ioda Brands 03 9359 4884

bTan Tanned AF Pro Mist - bTan Rocks 1300 819 331

Comp Colour Hi-Def Professional 1L - BSB Pacific 03 9463 8999

Lycon LycoBronze Rapid Spray Tan ExtraDark - Lycon Cosmetics 07 3004 6200

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MineTan Invisible Color Pro Spray Mist & Color Create Color Base Tan Drops MineTan Body Skin 1300 819 331


! EW N

life is better

IN COLOR NOW YOU CAN CREATE YOUR PERFECT COLOR MATCH WITH MINETAN® COLOR CREATE & TAN CUSTOMIZATION Create your perfect match with our color base tan drops. Use with our Invisible Color Pro Spray Mist for a super dark tan, made with your own color blend for a custom skin finish. Like choosing your hair color or cosmetics, you can customize your tan to your desired skin finish. Choose a cool mid-tone natural brown skin finish with Mink. Look like you’ve just stepped off a beach in the Mediterranean with Violet or like you’ve just returned from Rio in Dark Ash. Achieve a deep, rich super dark brown skin finish with cool undertones by adding Blue Black. Mix it up, get creative and experiment with your own blend for a custom skin finish. After all... life is better in color!

COLOR CREATE COLOR BASE TAN DROPS - 4 X 20ML

1 hour 1 hour

INVISIBLE COLOR PRO SPRAY MIST - 3.8 LITRE

EXPRESS EXPRESS TAN TAN FORMULA FORMULA

SHOWER SHOWER IN IN

SHOWER SHOWER IN IN

SHOWER SHOWER IN IN

For a natural For a natural tan tan

For a dark For atan dark tan

For a deep For a dark deeptan dark tan

1 HOUR 1 HOUR

2 HOURS 2 HOURS

Call 1300 819 331 or visit minetanbodyskin.com

3 HOURS+ 3 HOURS+

@minetanbodyskin


TANNING Zuii Organic Flora Dry Oil Tan Extender - Zuii Organic 07 5596 2319

MoroccanTan Instant Dry Oil - MoroccanTan 1300 181 281

MediterraneanTan Red Velvet Mousse Mediterranean Tan, Wax & Beauty 03 5244 5665

Sunescape Instant Self Tan Mousse - Professional Beauty Solutions 1800 625 387 Tanning Essentials Tan Eraser Mousse Tanning Essentials 03 9463 8900

SolaireCrimson 2 Hr Medium Colourfuze Complex Red RBS 18% DHA Solaire 03 5245 8367

Naked Tan 20 Minute Tan Professional Spray Tan Naked Tan 1300 365 683

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Bondi Sands Professional Spray Tan Dark - Le Beauty 03 9421 0025



TANNING

The Tanning

REVOLUTION Tanning is no longer just reserved for special occasions – customers are lining up to fake their way to that just back from a beach holiday look. Salon owners reveal the trend towards a healthy no-sun glow. JUST LIKE THE beauty sphere the tanning industry continues to evolve with ever changing trends and new formulations that are giving clients much more choice than ever before. Spray tan salon owner Stacey Manning from Malibu Spray, who opened her salon in ACT during 2007, says today clients are demanding a range of colour depths from natural to ultra-dark and now salons can further customise the tan tailored to the client’s individual skin concerns. “Clients are wanting not just a colour that suits their skin tone but also the choice of added hydration and sweat resistant tans,” she says. Stacey pinpoints special blends such as the Fitness Tan range by MineTan which has sweat resistance properties and are infused with caffeine and Guarana as the most popular trend, not just for gym goers but everyday tanners after a longer lasting tan to occasional tanners going on a tropical holiday. “The sweat resistant tans for the summer season this year is going to be the most sought after,” she says. She reveals hydration based tans are also highly popular, infused with moisturising antioxidants and oils ensuring a better fading tan, giving the client a skin treatment and tan in one. Tanning pre-wedding has always been popular with brides before their big day with the colour options ranging from natural to a deep dark tan to give them the perfect glow. At Malibu Spray brides-tobe can enjoy a tan in a private VIP room which is separate from the salon for brides and their guests and has proved hugely popular with formal groups as well. “Today’s tanner is very savvy, so you have to make sure your offering your clients the highest quality products, the latest tanning equipment and air brush tanning techniques. The results will leave your clients with a more even, flawless tan which is dry to the touch after application, long lasting and will fade evenly,” she says. Stacey also says another important tip is to educate clients on correct pre and post tanning care to ensure perfect results. “A flawless spray tan is the most important trend that will never be outdated.”

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Tan Temple owner Jaclyn Haslam agrees and says as it starts to warm up clients are getting a little bolder with their colour choices. “They are starting to opt for deeper colours and violet base tans are a pretty big trend at the moment. Contouring is also great to add a little definition coming out of winter, when you might not feel your fittest! Applying an extra layer to the outer edges of the torso, thighs, and butt give you a bit more confidence to get back in to your bikini and hit the beach.”

HOW TO GIVE CLIENTS A PERFECT GLOW • Education is key to getting a flawless tan – so make clients aware of pre and post tanning preparations so their tan lasts • The industry is evolving at a rapid rate – keep updated with new colour trends and offer clients a customised tan • A key trend for a natural glow is the hydration based tan with moisturising oils to treat the skin • One of summer’s most sought after looks is the sweat resistant tan that helps prevent streaks and rapid fading Jaclyn founded Bondi’s Tan Temple in 2010, which has twice won best Australian tanning salon at the Australian Beauty Industry Awards. “When I started I quickly changed the focus from ‘just a spray tanning salon’ to wanting to be ‘the best spray tanning salon. I wanted to create a salon with amazing customer service and the best attention to detail so that clients never had to feel nervous to get a spray tan again,” she says. She reveals her top tips for remaining at the top in business is her focus on team building. “I focus a lot on the girls that I hire and create a really friendly fun team that sets the vibe and puts clients at ease. We have gone from strength to strength and are now often booked out most evenings which is a great feeling – there is always room to grow.” n



TANNING

Deep, Dark Secrets Gone are the days of an orange streaky tan – clients want an instant golden glow that lasts. The experts reveal their latest tanning formulation innovations.

Active ingredients are key

Rapid Results

Ellina Hayes, Director of Machiaj Laboratories. www.machiajlab.com.au

Lydia Jordane, Founder & CEO LYCON Cosmetics www.lycon.com.au

“The number one request by brands is still to develop tans that are faster and darker and while we have made significant advancements in this area, there is no replacement for time. The most recent additions are delivery systems that enable the active ingredients to work harder which are featured in high end products. Our R&D team continuously explore and assess new ingredients, evaluating their affinity with DHA and the skin. We love tanning, it’s in our blood; which is why we are known as the “self-tanning guys”. However, this is less true these days as we have diversified into all areas of personal care, such as skincare, haircare and body products.”

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“Lyco-Bronze Rapid Spray Tan is a state-of-the-art self-tanner that carefully combines vegetable-derived DHA, Erythrulose (a natural keto-sugar) and plant-derived Bio-Melanin. These premium tanning ingredients act together in a complementary fashion to give fast colour development with a deep, natural looking tan colour. The Erythrulose and Bio-Melanin help to avoid skin dryness and give a streak-free result with a long-lasting, even fade-out over time. The Bio-Melanin also contributes antioxidant properties that are boosted by Vitamin E. Soothing Aloe Vera and Bisabolol (naturally found in German Chamomile oil) add to the hydrating, skin-pampering experience.”


R


TANNING

The organic tan

“Formulations are becoming faster acting with MediterraneanTan® carrying a 10 minute to 8 hour tanning range. MediterraneanTan® spray tan is made in a certified organic environment under medical supervision. MediterraneanTan® strongly believes in high quality ingredients being used in products as they genuinely can affect the health of your client and you need to know what you’re using! There are organic ingredients such as Erythrulose which is in most other brands however according to the Australian NICNAS (The National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme) is now genotoxic. It is for this reason we believe the next focus on tanning formulations will be on the health of all spray tanners and clients. “It will always be about a healthy dark gorgeous tan for us and our clients think so also”. Andrea Taylor, CEO/Founder Mediterranean Tan www.mtwb.com.au

Back To Nature “Product innovation is everything when it comes to staying competitive. Whether it’s a new more powerful DHA or a vitamin rich moisturising plant that has been used forever, brands are constantly searching for ingredient innovations that will give them an edge by providing a better result for the client. Brands need to do more than we used to in to succeed in today’s marketplace. A key theme in tanning brands like Sunescape and any successful professional cosmetics brand is that, their product not only needs to perform and deliver on its promised result, but the product needs to also be good for you and good for the planet. This new standard is requiring brands to innovate when it comes to adding more beneficial ingredients, removing anything nasty and doing more when it comes to eco-friendly packaging.

Summer Kiss’ unique formulas contain Natural Centella Extract, a skin firming and conditioning ingredient which boosts the skin’s cell replacement, has great anti-ageing properties and improves the skin’s texture and feel. Summer Kiss is also formulated with Aloe Vera and Argan Oil, helping to soothe the skin, keeping it supple and moisturised. These three important ingredients help improve the longevity and feel of the tan on the client’s skin. Our new Medium-Dark Bronzing Dry Oil applies smoothly and is touch dry in seconds. Colour appears immediately and develops within 2-3 hours and lasts for up to a week (due to the 100% natural DHA). The non-greasy formula hydrates the skin and rapidly creates a natural, lasting golden bronze finish. The Ultra Dark Bronze Violet 1h Express Tan is a fast acting 15% DHA enhanced with Erythrulose and intense bronzers to achieve the deepest longer lasting European inspired tan.

Matt Williams, Managing Director Sunescape www.sunescape.com.au

Andrew Taverna, Director Natural Look Australia www.naturallook.com.au

The power of performance

The dry oil

“Solaire® has been developing spray tan solution for over 20 years and is renowned for being innovators in the tanning industry. Solaire® has done it yet again with the very first dry oil spray tan – which infuses DHA to a dry oil. The Colourfuze Complex® Red - RBS® - Red Base Solution range is unique to Solaire® and outperforms solutions that basically add a oil to spray tan which is essentially water. The industry is demanding darker more natural results and Solaire® as always has delivered! The Colourfuze Complex® Red - RBS® - Red Base Solution range is a dry oil spray tan, melanin and collagen with DHA infused in the dry oil. Designed to deliver deep dark results with tan rinse off times from 10 minutes to up to 8 hours. Formulations are also focusing on allowing for longer lasting tans with the Colourfuze Complex® Red - RBS® - Red Base Solution range lasting for two weeks due to the deep penetration and hydrating effect of the oils. “Result driven formulas that prove themselves over decades are what we are about and it’s what drives our innovations” Adam Taylor, Owner Solaire www.solaire.com.au

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FREE a t e G oth!! o B n Ta

Introducing the new NAKED TAN

tanning machine! Get Summer ready with your new Pro machine!

PRO TAN MACHINE + 1L TANNING SOLUTION TANNING BOOTH FREE

ONLY $494 Valued at $644

SHOP ONLINE SHOP NOW SHOP NOW SHOP NOW SHOP NOW SHOP NOW www.nakedtan.com.au | Phone 1300 365 683 | Email info@nakedtan.com.au


TANNING

Tanning innovations

“Naked Tan pioneered the tanning industry in 2007 launching at Sydney International Beauty Expo, becoming the first tanning company to develop a fast tan – the 2hr wash and wear tan. Since then Naked Tan has come up with new innovations most recently launching the first tan to develop in 20 minutes - the problem solving LUXE professional solution range which includes a 20 minute Rapid Tan, Water Resistant Tan and Slimming Tan. We are proud to be an Australian made brand innovating premium products and we are excited to share our in-demand products with the global market. Our formulations are vegan friendly, paraben free, skin firming, hydrating, anti-ageing and most beneficial our formulations ensure longer lasting tans that fade evenly, easily absorbed into the skin, no tacky residue just leaving a beautiful brown result. This summer will see us release another exciting new product to market, so stay tuned.” Lea Taylor, Founder/CEO Naked Tan www.nakedtan.com.au

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“Bonza Bronz is a division of IODA BRANDS, a leading cosmetic and skincare company that was one of the first fake tan brands. Our brand is now available in 25 countries worldwide and is one of Australia’s largest tanning suppliers stocked in over 5,000 salons nationally. We combine knowledge and experience to produce products that follow a strict safety level and environmental profile. When you add Bonza Bronz to your business, you've added performance properties supported by more than 30 years of manufacturing experience, technical knowledge and a salon only exclusive brand combined with a safety, purity and an environmental profile that meets today's global and regulatory demands. One of the advantages of our spray tan is that there is no drying time required after application and is so natural looking and odour free.” Giorgio Caccamo, Brands Founder & CEO IODA www.bonzabronz.com.au

Deep, dark shades

The art of colour

Anh Hoang, Education Manager Le Beauty www.lebeauty.com.au

Kirstie Kirkham, Founder MineTan Body Skin www.minetanbodyskin.com

“When I first started tanning years ago, the majority of requests would be; ‘natural’ or ‘sun-kissed’ tan, avoiding the label of ‘fake tan’. Going to bed feeling sticky after a spray tan was considered normal. The evolution of sunless tanning has come a long way, with breakthrough technology facilitating faster drying, a hydrating formula with stronger colour and eliminating orange tones. It’s the darker shades of tan solution that meet wholesale demands. On the retail front, gradual tan, self-tanning mist and foams in the darker shades are the preferred choice of consumers. It seems that there is a growing generation of consumers who associate beauty with tanned skin, seeing the tanning industry thrive. To create this perfect dark tan, Bondi Sands tanning products contain dual tanning action, DHA plus Erythrulose which actively drives the DHA further into the skin layers. This enables the tan to develop further after rinsing. I predict a huge popularity in mixed tan base solutions with hydrating properties to achieve a natural brown colour to suit all skin types.”

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No drying time needed

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“Colour Base Tans has always been part of our business and now we are bringing a whole new level of colour customisation to our salon professional customers, enabling them to create their own custom colour spray tan formula with our Color Create Color Base Tan Drops and Invisible Color Pro Spray Mist. Spray tan professionals will now be able to custom mix and create their own colour base tans specific to their client’s desired skin finish. The tan drops are available in our best selling Violet and Dark Ash along with newcomers Mink and Blue Black, which can be mixed with our clear base Invisible Color Pro Spray Mist. Customisation and personalisation are by far the biggest beauty trends of the year. Whether it be across skincare, makeup or tanning, more and more customers are looking for a bespoke approach to beauty. Color Create enables salons to meet this need head on and create a tan that is truly unique for their customers, to their skin tone and desired skin finish.”


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TANNING

Tanned to PERFECTION Want to know the secret to creating the perfect tan for clients? Tayla Brandt reveals her top tips for getting it right every time. WHEN IT COMES to tanning – clients want to be assured of an even, streak free result says Tayla Brandt - the lead education expert for MineTan. Her extensive knowledge comes from more than 10 years in the business from her beginnings studying Skin Science to running her own mobile spray tanning business and opening her own salon. She reveals she has performed more than 10,000 spray tans and has had her skills put to the ultimate test at events including Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, the Logies and the AFL Brownlow Medal. “I love how a client – whether it be a celeb or not, puts their entire trust in me. It is so lovely seeing how much more confident they feel at the end of the appointment than the beginning. I enjoy seeing a client’s spray tan photos and the feedback the next day is pretty amazing,” she says.

Tayla’s Top Tips

How to achieve the ultimate dark results Double Coat Product Layering: To achieve an ultra dark look, it’s best to use 2 light/medium applications rather than applying one heavy application. Especially on lighter skin types, this process will be much more effective than applying heavy coats of tan, as the first coat you apply is creating an initial base tan, and then the second application will allow for any extra product absorption on the skin to occur. One heavy application can cause product to run or move from the desired area prior to drying and can result in an inconsistent finish. Double coats applied in this fashion also allow you to layer multiple products, for example creating a base tan with your first product choice and a top coat with your second product choice allows you to cross categories and get multiple product benefits in one double coat tanning application.

My tan is streaky, how can I fix it? Relax…. Streaky results are rarely what they seem. We want you to get the very best results out of our products so to combat the dreaded “streaky tan” here are a few tips: Skin types and conditions vary. The reason people get streaky tan is that after their first shower, when all the excess tan and bronzers are running off their body, some areas of the skin just want to hold onto those cosmetic bronzers more. This creates an uneven, or “streaky” finish.

The Fix: The best advice is to tell the client to go into the shower and use their hands to massage the streaky area with running water to remove the leftover bronzers. In very rare

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THE MINETAN EFFECT At a recent event hosted by Barneys Beauty Supplies as part of the Tan Angels Training and Education Program, MineTan ran a training day with salon owners, mobile spray tanners and those interested in spray tanning. Donna Kerkzliet, Barneys Salon Supplies reveals the lure of MineTan. “We decided to go with MineTan because of value for money, the quality of the product and they’re innovative – they’re always bringing out new products. A lot of the other brands do the same thing year after year and just add a couple of colours. MineTan do different things and that’s what I love about them. The product is excellent and our customers love it and are getting good results from it, so it’s a no brainer. We have these education events maybe two to three times a year, and people want education. They want to know the current way of doing things. Things change so quickly in the beauty industry that they need to know the latest techniques, if they can do something better or quicker, combinations of colour, just different things that they can bring to their clients, they want to know. It always has a good response, and August is a good time to do it because they’re getting ready for spring racing and busier months. At Barney’s we try and stock and support other suppliers that are innovative. We’re a young company too, so we want to go with companies that are forward thinking, and that’s why we gravitated towards MineTan. The MineTan booth – there’s nothing else in the market like it. When we talk to customers about this, and we’re getting more customers that are home based salons, and they are understanding that customers want a professional service. The booth is professional, it’s clean and the quality of the machinery is incredible.”

circumstances the results may still be imperfect, in these situations we recommend the complementing gradual tan, or a standard body moisturiser be applied to the area to smooth out the result. n Tayla runs all training and education programs in partnership with MineTan’s distributors, for salons, mobile tanning technicians and for those thinking about getting started in spray tanning. To find out more about upcoming training programs in your area call 1300 819 331.


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TANNING

Bronzed

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T h e c u t t i n g e d g e o f cl i n i c a l s c i e n c e Liquid Laser Prescriptive is a new generation in cosmeceutical offering and we are taking it back to where it began for Alpha-H: the salon. The level of activity and concentrations found within Liquid Laser Prescriptive Range combined with the expertise of a qualified skin clinician equals a controlled, measured and predictable outcome which can’t be obtained outside of the professional skin clinic. Developing stronger, results-driven relationships will give you an even greater advantage to evolve your business and build your client base. #ACHANGEISCOMING

www.alpha-h.com

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1800 659 777

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liquidlaserprescriptive.com


ROUNDTABLE

Eddie Norcross

Karen Meiring de Gonzalez

Michelle Doherty

DMK Australia & New Zealand

Skin Correctives

Olivier Duvillard

Robyn McAlpine

Simone Vescio

Brand Business & Strategy

Skintifix

Derma Aesthetics

Alpha-H

THE FUTURE OF SKIN CARE

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QUESTION: We are entering an age of ‘skintellectualism,’ whereby consumers are adopting a much more investigative approach to their routines and educating themselves about the best ingredients for every stage. How are brands responding to this challenge?

The view from Henry Deane in Hotel Palisade.

LEARNING: EDUCATION IS KEY WHEN IT COMES TO BOTH THERAPISTS AND CLIENTS. EACH CLIENT NEEDS TO BE ASSESSED INDIVIDUALLY AND TREATED ACCORDINGLY. Eddie: “We find education is key within our network of clinics and therapists. So whether that be via an online platform or via mentoring by account managers going in and really nurturing therapists through all the major skin concerns or conditions, we find that knowledge is definitely key. We also show our clients before and afters – real examples are the best testament. ” Olivier: “People are a lot savvier than they used to be. They do a lot of investigation before they make the first step with the brand. Sometimes the consumers get a little bit bogged down with concentration versus actually how much penetrates into the skin, and it’s our job in the industry to educate them a little bit more on that level rather than focusing on just ingredients.”

From left Karen, Eddie, Michelle, Olivier, Robyn, Simone and Glenn Silburn (Professional Beauty.)

Robyn: “My job is being very hands on with clients. They come in with an understanding or a trend of what they would like to have for their skin. As a skin expert it’s really important to raise the bar on a level of learning and do a great job of that because education has become the forefront of a product.” Simone: “As an industry we need to be very aware of the education coming from our website and the distributor’s websites to make sure they’re just not about marketing hype and trying to sell the next trend or fad. We need to have good, credible information that is there to be utilised. This is really important when it comes to social media.”

Hotel Palisade

Karen, Olivier and Robyn.

Michelle: “One size doesn’t fit all. Research indicates that while the customers do know a lot about an ingredient, they don’t quite know what it’s going to do for them. For us, as beauty care experts, we need to educate our therapists about really finding out what’s going on with that customer and their lifestyle, their habits and their changing needs, rather than just a skin analysis.” Karen: “From a clinic owner’s perspective, it’s important that we have a heightened awareness with the public that makes us gain our client’s trust. We can no longer go under the radar with a sales pitch anymore. You’ve got to spend enough time with a client to gain their trust so you can help them cut through all the marketing hype, especially what they pick up on social media.”

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Robyn, Glenn and Michelle.

QUESTION: In response to consumers becoming more aware of what they are putting on their bodies, global brands are looking at how they incorporate more natural and sustainable ingredients to their ranges, as well as how their choice of packaging impacts our environment. What impact is the green beauty trend having on the skin care market? LEARNING: THERE HAS BEEN A SHIFT IN CORPORATE RESPONSIBILITY TOWARDS BEING GREEN, DRIVEN LARGELY BY CONSUMERS. BUT THERE ARE CHALLENGES WITH CHANGING RULES.

Guests mingled over lunch.

Olivier: “It’s a fundamental shift that’s happening. It’s not quite yet visible here but if you go to international exhibitions, packaging and sustainability is at the forefront. It’s important to be part of an advocacy. You have to believe in something and be proud of it and have a voice that really resonates. Sustainability and the green trend is here to stay. It doesn’t mean there’s only room for natural products. A mix of corporate responsibility and natural beauty is a trend coming up across all channels.” Robyn: “Corporate responsibility is a very big, consumer trenddriven change in our industry. We really need to think about formulations because it’s not just about what’s going on our skin, it’s about what’s being washed down the plug hole at the end of the day and in our environment. I’m a bit sad that it’s taken consumers to drive this because cosmetic formulators know what is going into their products and they know the impact they’re having on the environment. It’s a bit of a reaction and a response and not something that all companies are leading. The front label is all about grabbing your attention. You have to look at the ingredients and for consumers that’s really difficult because there’s words on there that you can’t even pronounce. It’s really important that people get their Google on and start reading what is listed in there so they can make an educated decision.”

Michelle: “We manufacture all of our products and obtaining ISO accreditation and GNP really helps guide us into really good practices. Sustainable skin care, sourcing our ingredients from like-minded businesses and always being in line with those best practices makes a big difference for us. What I see coming into the forefront is more refillable packaging. We certainly want to look at the idea of refilling, but then how do you stop all of the cross-contamination? We need to consider a whole raft of things – you have to be compliant across a different government bodies and rules. We’ve got the highest standards, the highest quality, and the highest regulations here in Australia. We have to pay a huge amount of money to be able to sell our products around the globe with the SPF rating in it. I’m very sad that companies can come into Australia with an SPF rating and not have to go through the system here in Australia to guarantee that it is a rating that’s of the highest standards. My dream would be to create SPF products that meet all the standards and the rating without using a lot of the chemical content. However, the TGA don’t allow us to do that right now. It’s something we have to continue on to fight that fight and prove these more organic compounds are going to protect the skin, but right now it’s rules and regulations and we have to abide by them.”

YOU HAVE TO BELIEVE IN SOMETHING AND HAVE A VOICE THAT REALLY RESONATES

Simone: “It’s something that formulators need to be responsible for. It’s happening because there is so much push for it. We always work around our formulations to ensure they’re clean and biodegradable and will leave a positive ecological footprint at the end of the day for the next generation. That comes through right from packaging to formulation and what we do in our office day-to-day. That’s the way we run our company, we’re very mindful of it. We need to also acknowledge that a lot of active ingredients do need to have a preservative. Unfortunately, it’s sometimes a misconception that you put a green dot in a product and consumers will automatically think they’re doing the right thing when they’re not ingredient aware. We work a lot in Europe, who have recently blacklisted over 200 ingredients. America banned 90 from this list. I’m still trying to find out what Australia has accepted. We follow the high European standards, which many other companies don’t, so they’ll continue to use these blacklisted ingredients.”

Eddie: “With global standards within the beauty and wellness industry, if you’ve got a product that’s across various markets, there are stipulations for you to have that product available. There are guidelines that you must be compliant to as a manufacturer, otherwise you’re not going to be available on the shelves of clinics or in treatment rooms as well.”

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY

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QUESTION: One viewpoint is that the future of cosmetic dermatology, anti-ageing, and wellness is reliant on advancements in technology, as it’s really about how we’re going to get these ingredients into the skin. What are your thoughts on this view? LEARNING: WITH GREAT TECHNOLOGY COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY. WE HAVE TO ENSURE WE DON’T DAMAGE THE SKIN LONG-TERM WITH NEW TREATMENTS AVAILABLE. Simone: “For over 22 years now we’ve been working with a delivery system that works with the skin’s barrier and not against it. Within the industry, I worry about what we are trying to deliver, not just the actives but what else is going in there. We have immune cells, our Langerhans cells, that sit there and when we start to pass things past the first and second barrier of defense, how do those immune responses affect them, not only on delivery, but long-term? It’s important we understand the health of someone’s skin because we are looking at an age of skin microbiome, that sits in and around our acid mantle and our stratum corneum, which is there for a reason. It’s a fragile ecosystem that needs to be protected. When we are going through our peeling stages, when we’re going through disrupting these barriers in this ecosystem, how is the skin going to cope with that? More importantly, we’re in an age of collagen induction therapy. We’re all working with needling to make these pathways to put these ingredients into our client’s skins. If there is an incorrect pH or ingredient that is foreign and we’ve injected needles, how are we coping with that? How are these skins going to be in the next 10 to 15 years and what are the responses to that? We’re treading on dangerous ground.” Eddie: “Another whole level beyond needling is further ablation and resurfacing. There’s not a lot of research on long-term effects of those type of machines being brought in. ‘Bring in the laser machine and that’s going to fix everything.’ It’s not the cure all. If you’re going to be inflicting a compromised skin with this advanced machinery in different modes of different penetrations of laser and advanced machinery, and putting that on skin that’s not strong and stable- you’re inflicting more inflammation and expecting a result. That’s also very much something that becomes, again, a consumer-driven thing. It becomes very one-minded, almost like when microdermabrasion came around. Everyone wanted micro, then another and another. It doesn’t work that way. How much are you going to take off?”

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Karen: “It’s not all just about getting those ingredients and driving them into the skin. We all know that the intelligence of the cells is in the cell membrane, so if you don’t have a healthy cell membrane, and a good acid mantle, it’s not going to matter. We need to work with the fatty acids topically and also internally, getting that cell membrane, which is selective and needs to be nourished and other substances through. So if you don’t have a healthy skin you can’t just look at driving stuff in. Your skin is a three dimensional organ. It needs oxygen from the body, not from external sources. We need to give the skin oxygen, which is sourced from the blood supply within your own body and your lymphatic system. You can’t treat a skin without dealing with the lymphatic system because that’s part of your skin’s immune response. We need to look at the big picture and stop just thinking of driving stuff down. The delivery system is the most important part of active ingredients but where are you delivering it to and what skin condition are you delivering that to? If your skin goes into defense mode it’s not going to improve.” Robyn: “You have to think about what’s going into the skin. Our skin knows what to do. It knows what it’s designed to do. We’re the ones that keep interfering with it. So with great technology comes great responsibility to think about what’s going into your skin. It’s great to get an active in there but what is that active mixed up in? Skin is one of our vital organs. We don’t need preservatives in our skin. We don’t need fragrances in our skin. You wouldn’t spray perfume on your heart or your liver or your kidneys, so why would we be thinking that it’s okay to actually put it down into the deeper layers of our skin? It doesn’t make sense. “ Karen, Michelle and Olivier.

Michelle: “We all have to be mindful that we’re not doctors. We’re leaders in resurfacing and exfoliation and I take full ownership for that but it’s very measured. Our pH is very correct in the way we bring about change but there’s companies that just go too far. I see now that there’s 30% or 40% peels available to the public to buy online. At what stage is that correct? The regulations here are so loose and then clients come back into our salons and we try to repair and rebuild what our customers have done because they think more is better. It’s also very predictable, but when you get these rogue formulations, it’s not predictable. You don’t know how the skin is going to respond. As a professional beauty therapist, I know my place but others out there seem to think they’re talking in medical terms and they’re out of line.” Olivier: “It’s really marketing companies that are marketing ingredients and then consumers play with the products with high concentrations without really having a clear understanding of what are the skin concerns and the potential damage it can do.”


Successful Partnerships Bespoke Business Support dermaviduals does not believe in a blanket approach to business. We know that just as no two skins are alike, nor are two businesses. Our experienced staff will provide innovative solutions for all facets of your business allowing you to focus on your passion for skin.

© Derma Aesthetics

Our partnership programme • Strictly NO internet sales ensuring profits stay in your clinic. • 100% markup on all products. • Customised opening orders. • Access to advanced education programmes run by world-renowned trainers. • Tailored VIP events specifically for your clinic. • National media promotions and brand exposure. • A rewards and incentive programme for you, your staff and your customers. • A marketing programme where we will meet up to 50% of your marketing costs. • Marketing created specifically to excite and inspire your clients. • Exposure on our clinic finder. • Access to the latest clinical studies and research findings. • Support by clinical educators and business development managers. • True corneotherapeutic skin care.

Visit us online or call:

dermavidualsAustralasia

1300 420 223

dermavidualsAustralasia

www.dermaviduals.com.au

enquiries@skincorrection.com.au

dermaviduals


ROUNDTABLE

QUESTION: Considering the increased number of men’s skin care products – how do you see this market segment evolving over the coming years; both at the salon level via increased consumer demand, and the evolution of product offerings by beauty suppliers? APART FROM SOME INHERENT DIFFERENCES, ALL SKIN IS THE SAME. TREATMENTS AND HOMECARE SHOULD BE CUSTOMISED FOR EACH CONDITION, REGARDLESS OF GENDER.

hair removal, and then slowly introducing some of the correctives, but there’s definitely a lot of ground still to be gained because the industry in Australia is a man who is quite untapped. There are some specific salons but I can count them on one hand the ones that are really doing it well. The reality is men in salons is just not well represented at all. The unisex products are definitely the way to go but with a male - if you don’t have a shaving cream in your range you Glenn, Michelle, Eddie and Simone.

Eddie: “Within our concept we are non-gender aligned - we find that skin is skin at the end of the day. Men inherently have different thicknesses of skin and obviously there’s the beard factor and that sort of thing to consider. But we have to look good for longer and look fresher for longer and it’s not about necessarily looking younger. It’s actually looking the best you can possibly look at whatever age you are. We’ve done some specific male-focused advertising and promoting with packs and promotions, where we’ve turned our enzyme into a manzyme and we created social media furore over that, where there were husbands of clinicians and therapists that were being Cheers to the future of skincare. snapped all around the world. It was a bit of a challenge to man aren’t giving them any up and have a manzyme. It cues that you’re malecreated an awareness that men friendly in some ways.” can have our core offering and that was really amazing for us. It Robyn: “It really does created a huge awareness and come down to the buzz out there and made it more marketing because skin acceptable for men to come and is skin is skin. The nuts have advanced treatments and and the bolts of it is that look after themselves as well, too. you’ve got a cell lifecycle The wives, boyfriends, girlfriends, and every male and whoever saying, ‘Come on, female has that. So it’s come in and have a treatment.’ just letting the guys know Breaking down those stereotypes it is available.“ and making it more acceptable for men to look after themselves and Karen: “Men are loyal clients. They don’t follow the trends. They groom themselves and look good for everyone around them but follow instructions and although they’re a small percentage of our also for themselves is really key.” clientele, I have found some of them to be in the highest top 20 sometimes. They’re compliant and loyal. If you’re in a clinical setting Simone: “I’m seeing more salons come up with concepts like man when you’re serious about skin and not fluffing around with all caves. So there’s an area that the male clientele can go to and different feminine types of décor, they’ll feel comfortable. A beauty feel really comfortable in. We’ve got a lot of clinics doing that. salon could be a bit intimidating for a male but if you’ve got a clinical We know that there’s an emerging trend of men-only clinics, and setting, with clinical before and afters, I’ve never had a problem we’re responding really well to that as an industry. There’s a little attracting the male clientele into that environment. I find we get bit of difference in skin thickness, testosterone, progesterone, and them mostly when they’re younger with acne. They might not have estrogen, but apart from that we all live in the same skin so we very thought to come to us for aesthetic reasons but when they have the much work towards a clean packaging that is non-gender specific. problem with acne that’s when we get them in. And when they get It’s customisable for each skin and every condition that comes used to good skin, they get addicted, because they know they look through no matter if you’re male or female. It really doesn’t matter. better than the other guys out there. And scarring is another reason You won’t be treated any differently.” why men often come to see us because we’ve had the modalities to be able to be able to revise scarring and acne. From a very early Olivier: “On the global front, if you look at sales of male skin care time on I’ve always been able to have that flow of male clientele in it’s still less than seven percent. It really started with grooming, the clinic.”

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Olivier, Robyn, Glenn, Michelle and Eddie.

QUESTION: The skin care industry has witnessed an expansion in demand from older consumers to a growing younger consumer base. People are beginning to use skin care at an increasingly younger age in a bid to delay the signs of ageing. What actions are skin care companies taking to address these changes? PREVENTION IS STARTING AT A YOUNGER AGE. BUT SOCIAL MEDIA IS NORMALISING SOME ALARMING TRENDS FOR YOUNG PEOPLE. Michelle: “One of the things that we’re doing as a business is doing more campaigns around SPF and using younger influencers to portray this. It’s called Put On SPF. It’s about that preventative measure. So our youngsters of today are not facing the same issues with their skin care that we all face. It’s a case of if we knew then what we know now none of us would be trying to fight the signs of sun damage and the early onset of ageing due to overexposure of the sun. So we’re very much about preventative measures when it comes to talking to our younger audience and really saying it’s cool to use SPF and formulating it so that it’s aesthetically nice. The whole thing is getting them to want to put that product on because it’s nice. It’s not going to leave a thick residue on the skin. And for me, I’m the biggest advocate because of what we specialise in doing in the industry. We’re obligated to have the best level of SPF. It all starts with prevention at a young age.” Karen: “At the clinic level the youngest clients we get are ones with acne and clients very much know now that there can be something done at a clinical level for acne. They all want to be ‘picture-perfect’, which is driven by social media, which can be unrealistic but at the same time it does encourage them to come see us sooner rather than later. With our marketing we put out quite a lot of before and afters of our own with acne conditions. They know that it’s available and we try and encourage the parents to bring them in as soon as possible because it’s not the acne that’s a problem. That we can get under control. It’s the scarring that’s the long-term thing to fix and obviously more costly as well. Once again, if they experience good skin we’ve got clients for life because they realise that they look even better after their acne than their other friends who’ve got great skin but haven’t done anything and it’s up to us to educate them and make them understand that really age prevention starts at 21, even younger.” Simone: “What we do in our education platform is to ensure the younger group is coming through. We can be looking at acne because puberty starts so much younger, even from age nine. We bring the parents in with the children and go through a big consultation. It’s important the parents are as much onboard as the children or teenagers so they know what’s happening and what the long-term investment in these children’s skins will be. It’s also getting them to understand their ageing process is going to have factors of extrinsic and intrinsic. Sometimes your ageing process is not going

Robyn and Simone.

to be what you put on your skin. Your mother, grandmother will have a big contributing factor to what you’re going to look like no matter what you do with your skin. It’s getting them to understand that.” Olivier: “For products it’s quite interesting at the moment because it’s such a big trend on makeup and contouring. So we see all these young girls applying layers and layers of foundation day in and day out. So you’ve got a lot of bad skin. Absolutely the next phase is skin care because there’s so much damage to the skin that’s being done at the moment, and also as a selling point, really preparing your skin for application of makeup is the best way to talk to a young girl.” Eddie: “Acne is another psychological cycle. There’s so many factors that go into hormonal fluxes with emotions around not feeling great, about what’s presenting in your skin, especially for these young boys who don’t have the option to be able to use makeup to cover up. It’s kind of a giveaway if a male tried to hide it. Whereas young girls can conceal and camouflage and everything. The young guys get stuck in this psychological never-ending cycle.” Robyn: “Twenty years ago when I was first a teenager, getting into skin care, I’m glad Instagram wasn’t around because there was no makeup on this face. It was really quite basic and the only time you ever went to a skin specialist is if you had quite severe acne and your parents were proactive enough to go and seek out some advice for you. Social media has definitely changed the game when it comes to accessing a new market in a younger generation because there is such a need for it. It’s with acne and with makeup that younger people are now starting to come into the clinic and really look for a solution with their skin.”

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ROUNDTABLE

QUESTION: Trends influencing the skin care sector in recent year have included high-tech facial masks, friendly bacteria, super food skin care, facial brushing, injectables, air pollution defenses, and plumping ingredients. What do you anticipate will be the next big trend to impact the professional skin care category? LEARNING: HEALTHY SKIN IS ALWAYS GOING TO BE IN FASHION. A MORE HOLISTIC APPROACH IS BEING TAKEN FOR LONGTERM, LASTING RESULTS.

From left Karen, Olivier, Robyn, Glenn, Michelle, Eddie and Simone.

Simone: “What we need to really concentrate on in the industry is tried and tested ingredients that aren’t fads, because we don’t want to keep selling those sort of modalities or treatments to clients. We just need to get it right and keep it simple and keep it clean and stop following trends. Unfortunately, there is marketing hype that sits out there in the industry, and our salon owers have to wade through that and hopefully find a distributor that’s reputable to look after their clinics and their clients’ skin’s health. The consumers and the salon owners have to get a little bit more savvy and not fall into the marketing hype because you can in our industry.” Olivier: “Some of the interesting longer-term trends that are emerging that are here to stay is clearly the holistic approach to beauty. Topical and ingestables. It’s clearly been here for the last few years but it’s taking such a momentum. The other trend I can see is a prescription or tailored approach to customisation.”

Robyn: “Trends will always come and go but healthy skin is always going to be in fashion. If we’re looking at what skin needs to function, that hasn’t changed at all. Skin is skin is skin. The trend is always going to come back to what does skin need to function in a really healthy way? And what can we eliminate or what can we add that is going to support that process? This all comes back down to education. This is something that I’m on about all the time. My team hears it all the time. You have to know skin inside out, back to front on such an intimate level to understand how cosmetic chemistry is impacting a cell. So that’s where we need to be leading, in that education, because that way you can kind of decipher the trends and the fads and link it back to how skin works.” Karen: “It means standing back and observing and ensuring what the outcome is first. Even if it means you stand around for 10 years before you bring a modality into your business, you need to ensure that first of all, it’s safe and it’s going to give you the outcome that you need. Technology is evolving all the time. But if I look at the things that we work with and some of the brands that like to stand out, I’ve been using exactly the same formulations for 20 years with DMK. Exactly the same tools, nothing new. Yes, they have evolved because we need to because of all the different regulations. We’ve had to change the formulations for better active ingredients that we’ve discovered. It’ll be replaced but it’s exactly the same thing. It’s the same as fashion. You’ve got fashion but you’ve got two sorts of trends. They can be science-based trends or they can be science gimmicks. If you’re going to be a leading expert you need to be able to differentiate between the two.”

TRENDS WILL ALWAYS COME AND GO BUT HEALTHY SKIN IS ALWAYS GOING TO BE IN FASHION

Michelle: “It’s formulating for the lifestyle changes. One of the things that we were very big on two years ago was blue-light ageing. Because I’ve been the owner of our business for over 28 years, we’ve seen these changes. We never, ever create products for a trend or a fad because the investment that one should put into a formulation should mean that you formulate for it to be here for a long time because it actually has a purpose. For me, there is a new awareness around anti-pollution, but that’s a little bit hard to push in Australia because we live in such a clean environment. But blue-light ageing is a real concern and it’s something that, as a company and a formulator, we need to start making it more aware that the lights coming from the blue-light screens, your smartphones, your tablets, your computers are going way deeper into the dermis, way beyond what your UVB and your UVA rays are doing. It’s long-term damage to the skin. It’s not creating for a trend or a fad but seeing our lifestyle and how we’re living our lives now and how it’s affecting the wellbeing of our skin and we need to create products with that in mind.”

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Eddie: “Long-term sustainable results is really what it’s all about and lifetime of that long-term commitment of a client that wants to look the best they can. Clients want real results and beyond that, trends will always come and go and people are looking for the quick-fix, but it’s that constant re-education to say, ‘Hey, wait a second, we need to reset you because you’re way mixed up, your skin’s not even ready to have that aimed at it or that fired at it’.”


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WAXING

The scent of

SUCCESS The use of fragrances and oils on the skin can have many beauty benefits. Rosie Hopgood reveals the calming properties behind some of our favourites.

SPA PROFESSIONALS ONLY want to use the best products on their clients to get the results those clients deserve. The use of perfumes and essential oils from certain plants or flowers in beauty products dates back to ancient Egyptian times. Cleopatra is said to have used essential oils in her rooms and on her clothes to seduce Mark Anthony. Greek legend reveals that Hippocrates used essential oils to offer protection against contagious diseases and for the therapeutic values. In the 1920’s Rene Maurice Gattefasse, a French Chemist, burnt his arm while making a fragrance and immediately plunged it into a jug of lavender oil. To his amazement the pain was less than expected and the blistering was greatly reduced thanks to the oil. Some of the benefits of certain fragrances include their ability to speed up the healing process, reduce pain and inflammation and cleanse the skin of surface bacteria. As waxing removes hair from the root exposing the skin to contaminates, it is just as important that the products used before and after the treatment are beneficial and advantageous to ensure a positive result. Tina Copland, founder and owner of Jax Wax has recently completed a Diploma of Personal Care Formulation and is about to begin a Certificate in Organic Formulations to expand her knowledge about the importance of essential oils and ‘green’ products within the beauty industry. “I have learnt a lot about the sustainability of raw materials, and how people’s concern about what is being used on their skin is driving consumer demand. The Diploma of Personal Care Formulation has given me a comprehensive approach to formulating safe, stable and effective products for the hair, hands, body and face, “ she says. Tina’s study is now being integrated into the formulation of improved waxes and ancillary products. Jax Wax Australia’s products contain a range of essential oils including Lavender, Bergamot, Ylang Ylang, Tea Tree, Orange, Peppermint and many more that are advantageous to the skin. Essential Oils are becoming more and more prevalent in the beauty industry as a way of making a more ‘natural’ product. Jax Wax Australia ensures that the essential oils which they use are not only beneficial to the skin, but also have a pleasant aroma. Jax Wax Australia, takes great care to ensure that the entire waxing treatment is as smooth and trouble-free as possible with the inclusion of proven essential oils in their products. n Rosie Hopgood has been the Marketing and Sales Manager at Jax Wax Australia since January 2015. She responsible for all aspects of marketing and sales including social media. For details contact: www.jaxwaxaustralia.com

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LAVENDER OIL Long lauded for its anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, anti-depressant, antiseptic, anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties. One of the most well-known essential oils in aromatherapy it is suited to all skin types and improves the skin’s overall tone and texture making it ideal for all products used throughout the waxing treatment. BERGAMOT ESSENTIAL OIL There are many health benefits to this oil – it is anti-bacterial, anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory and anti-spasmodic. Certain components of this essential oil inhibit the growth of germs, virus, and fungi. It also effectively prohibits infections, including those of the skin. Bergamot essential oil stimulates the secretion of certain hormones which lessen the sensitivity of nerves to pain and can help speed up the healing process. YLANG YLANG This oil has effective antiseptic properties and can reduce inflammation. It is often used on the skin to preserve a “youthful glow” and help prevent signs of ageing or irritation. One of the beauty benefits of ylang ylang essential oil is its sebum balancing properties. Sebum refers to the natural oils produced by our skin. Ylang ylang oil has a balancing effect that helps correct overly oily as well as very dry skin types. TEA TREE OIL Increases the activity of your white blood cells which help fight germs. It’s these properties that make tea tree oil a valued natural remedy for treating bacterial and fungal skin conditions, preventing infection and promoting healing. Injuries that result in broken skin make it easy for germs to enter your bloodstream, which can lead to infection. Tea tree oil can be used to treat and disinfect minor cuts and abrasions by killing S. aureus and other bacteria that can cause infection in open wounds. The inclusion of tea tree oils in both pre and post-waxing products will reduce the chance of infection and to soothe and repair the skin. CITRUS OIL Citrus oils most popular today are orange, lemon, mandarin and lime. These oils are well known for killing germs and fighting against microorganisms that can cause disease and infection. The most prominent active ingredient in Orange Oil is limonene and is considered a powerful antioxidant that fights free radical damage and inflammation that can lead to various diseases. GERANIUM OIL This non-toxic, non-irritant and generally non-sensitising and the therapeutic properties of it include being an antiseptic and woundhealing. Some of the most common geranium essential oil benefits are that it minimises inflammation and improves circulation.



TALKING POINT

GET INTO SHAPE WITH A BUSINESS COACH Are you looking to increase profits? Why not hire a business coach to get ahead of the game. Anita Quade chats to coaches to find out how they can help. IT MAKES SENSE that as the competition heats up in the beauty industry, owners are looking for a competitive edge with many turning to a business coach to help overhaul their business. Business coach and director of ZING Business Coaching, Lisa Conway, who has more than 30-years’ experience in the beauty industry leads a team of coaches to help salon owners transform their business. She reveals she created ZING to close the gap between what salon owners deliver and what their clients want. She shares her top coaching tips.

TIME, TEAM AND MONEY “The most common reasons business owners hire coaches are they are interested in time, team or money. Salon owners simply can’t find enough time to work on the actual growth of their business. They’re spending their energy elsewhere, stamping out business “spotfires”, doing things over and over again without decent systems in place, and not seeing the big picture. When it comes to teams they often hire the wrong fit or struggle to inspire their existing team, and end up with average performance. Money is everyone’s challenge – no-one’s making the dollars they deserve for the time and effort they invest. Not knowing their numbers has salon owners totally blind-folded as to where and when the money comes or goes. The result is frustration and exhaustion. Salon owners don’t know what they don’t know. They know they can do better, they just don’t know how – and they know that we do. We respect that asking for help is a huge step and admitting that you’re struggling is one of the hardest things to do. Often the tipping point for salon owners asking for help is realising that the joy has disappeared. For a sustainable business you need a healthy mix; freedom of time, an incredible team and substantial money.”

STRONG LEADERS GET RESULTS “Everything that happens in your business is your fault. Can’t find the right team, not enough clients, clients won’t rebook? – it all comes back to you. Therefore you need to fully immerse yourself in being a better you. When you become a strong leader with a clear vision, your clients and team will all want to be part of what you stand for. They’ll follow your lead and example. But you need to be worthy before you can gain their respect. Salon owners need to be the one who people want to work with and be absolutely clear in your message. Never, ever settle

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for average. Being the best you can be means you’ll attract the right team and they’ll want to listen to you and be motivated to deliver your culture. If you don’t know what that is, if you struggle with brand identity and you are trying to please everyone and do everything yourself, you’ll fail. Replace “I” with “who”. Who can I train to do this? Who can teach the team this new skill? Who else is ready to step up? It’s up to you to identify your resources and leverage them to grow a profitable, sustainable business that works with or without you.”

FINDING YOUR NICHE “Beauty is such a broad term and today, more than ever, your clients want a specialist. The “general store” beauty operator is a thing of the past. Imagine going to a restaurant that offered you a choice as wide as Mexican fish tacos, Italian pasta marinara, a grain-fed Angus steak or a raw vegan lasagne. I’d think twice before I went in, wouldn’t you? A specialty restaurant tells you something before you even walk in. For me the message is clear: This is our thing. We love this stuff. We get it and we know it inside and out. We’ve researched it so you don’t have to you. Most of all, we’re passionate about what we do. Isn’t that what a client desires (and deserves) from a beauty salon? Dedicated practitioners and therapists, the latest techniques, top products and specialist knowledge. The sort of expertise you expect from a lash and brow specialist, or an injectables clinic or a waxing salon. Find what you love and something that you do better than anyone else, then perfect it. Drill down on your niche discipline, get it right from the ground up and then, and only then, tell the world about you and what you offer, over and over again. They’ll be drawn to your niche offering by the promise of specialist knowledge and skills. They’ll trust in what you do and believe in your passion. Give clients a fantastic experience in your chosen niche and you’ll have them lining up for appointments.”

RETAINING STAFF “Firstly, your business culture and your reputation need to be on point to create a workplace of choice, so you attract the right people rather than putting all your effort into retaining them. Secondly, accept that everyone is leaving. It’s the nature of our industry – you’ll always be hiring and looking for a team .


If you make retention your focus, you’re in the wrong mindset. Stay laser sharp on attracting the right people. You need more clients than you can handle, and you need more people choosing your business as the workplace of choice. Let’s look at Lulu Lemon the leisurewear brand. It’s almost impossible to get a position at Lulu because the culture is so strong that the team stick around, they choose to stay. The focus isn’t on retaining; the focus is on what the company stands for, what they believe in. The Lulu recruitment net brims over with the right people applying … then sticking around. Shift your thinking. Understand that the modern workforce is mobile. People move from job to job, salon to salon for reasons you can’t control. Focus on what you can control: your culture and reputation.” www.zingcoach.com.au Deborah Mangum-Copelli is managing director of Mind Wellness Pty. Ltd., a Psychotherapy, NLP, Guided Meditation, Coaching and Hypnotherapy Company. She shares her top two tips on creating a successful business.

YIELD MANAGEMENT “I learned it from the best; corporate multi-nationals and the 5-star hotel industry. If you want to thrive and survive, it’s the best bottom-line financial approach to success and business longevity. Understand the basic principles, then use this strategy within every facet of your business, staying focused and committed to your direction. Do your research for your geographic location and the demographics and psychographics of your client base. Most often your client’s live or work nearby and come to you because you are convenient and you offer what they need; so make sure this is true.”

GET YOUR BUSINESS BASICS IN ORDER: • Sufficient capital to startup, re-brand or run your business day to day • A smart and reliable book keeper/accountant who embraces the yield approach to keep you on track • Focus on sales whilst keeping costs at a minimum and controllable • Take action to target market to your base • Schedule your staff based on predictable client booking behaviors • Engage in the most cost-effective, yet high response-rate marketing practices to acquire and retain your client base • Train every staff member to be your Salon’s advocate to promote and market your services and retail products.

THE CLIENT COMES FIRST “We are in the, “service industry” – clients visit our salons for expertise and professionalism, that’s already expected, but they return again and again because of our caring service to each of them individually. This must be ingrained within our salon culture and show from the top down through owner, management and each of our staff members. It all starts from the moment a client walks in the door to the moment they exit; a consistent and authentically friendly and professional greeting, an introduction to the client by the therapist to the parting words spoken by reception as the client leaves our salon. The “take-away” we desire is that our clients feel well looked after professionally and technically. Bear in mind that having very positive and predictable outcomes for the client is paramount to your success. Keeping your standards and procedures for client care and service at, “top of the bar” is key. Your reputation, your staff, salon name and brand are your most valuable assets. It is that basic, “word of mouth” that will get your clients coming in the door in the first place and your service will keep them coming back for more. If you get this right from the start and maintain it for the long-term, then you will enjoy the profits and peace of mind of knowing you have made a memorable contribution to your client’s well-being.” n www.mindwellness.com

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Steps to boost

CLIENT RETENTION AND AVERAGE SPEND

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It’s every salon owners dream to keep loyal staff and increase client’s expenditure. Caroline Nelson reveals tips on making it a reality. LETS FACE IT competition in the beauty business is high and the wide variety of choices has made clients more selective, more demanding, more price orientated and more aware of what’s available. So can it be done? Can we get clients coming back more often and spending more each visit? The answer is yes!

BUILD A COMMITED TEAM To reach that goal it will take effort, commitment, and the dedication of the entire team to build and sustain good professional relationships with everyone they come into contact with during their daily work. This goes beyond good customer


BUSINESS

A BUSINESS IS ONLY AS GOOD AS ITS WEAKEST LINK service because most competitors will be delivering to this level. Deliver a notch above because in an increasingly stressful and impersonal world a beauty salon is the one place many people go to receive hands on (literally) high level customer care. Make sure your employees are trained to deliver to this standard because a business is only as good as its weakest link.

REMEMBER CLIENTS ARE GOLD Each client is very precious and as such should be treated with unfailing respect, but above all they want to know they are receiving the best advice and the best treatment available. For this reason the professional therapist must be not only be highly skilled and technically trained, but observant to assess each client for additional ways to improve the appearance. And never mistake superior service for being “salesy” it is instead professional “duty-of-care” to offer expert advice and recommendation. Provide this and valued clients will be educated and correctly informed to make the right treatment and retail decisions, which will secure their loyalty.

BOOST CLIENT SPENDING If you want to increase your average spend then you will need to make it easier for both your staff to sell and for your clients to buy. For staff to sell both services and retail they not only need a good underpinning knowledge of the skin, but also the best analysis tools available. In an ever increasing technology world the old magi lamp is just not sophisticated enough nor does it allow the in-depth skin assessment today’s client expects. By combining 3D image analysis tools with the therapists expert knowledge of skin, treatment, and homecare the therapist is in the best position to prescribe, recommend and sell … it’s the perfect combination. There will always be money in wallets and purses just waiting to be spent. In addition there’s also a new breed of client who is happy to use the new “buy now, pay later” which allows them to purchase products and services immediately then pay it off in instalments. As mentioned earlier in this article clients are more aware of what’s available and this includes payment options, so don’t come late to the party because competitors won’t.

MAKE THE CHOICE EASY Many clients are confused with the vast choice of treatments available, each and every day they’re bombarded with thousands of marketing messages often giving them misinformation or conflicting information. This makes it hard for them to make the correct and right decision for their beauty care needs, but it is also where the expert therapist can guide them. We can help them to make the right choice, but this hinges on good

communication skills, and the trouble is since many younger employees are more used to communicating via ‘short-hand’ text, this is fast becoming a lost art. For this reason training sessions on how to develop good communication skills, role-playing with sample scripts, and up-sell and cross-sell techniques is a must. And keep in mind while up-selling and cross-selling adds to the bottom-line just as importantly it adds value to client results.

REASONS TO BUY People buy for many reasons but mostly for need and/or desire. In the aesthetic world we might consider that we provide both - the need for healthy skin, and the desire to look and feel more glamorous, youthful and like our celebrity crushes. But to provide this we must be sure we have the services and products that will best deliver to these needs and desires. Therefore not only do we need to offer up-to-date and cutting edge services but the cosmeceuticals that can and will support in-salon clinical results.

SIMPLE BEAUTY MENU The treatment menu must be easy to read offering a la carte single services, intensive booster up-grades, cleverly packaged and bundled programs or a series, and glamour enhancements. It should be designed and set out in such a way that it leads clients and prospective customers to make a booking and not just clutter up their handbags with waste paper. Presuming a “selling” type menu of services has been created it will need to be backed up by the homecare that not only sells but also gets clients coming back for more. Because it’s not only excellent customer service, effective cutting-edge services, but the retail stocked that effects client retention and revenue. And never under any circumstance stock a brand that is available from online shopping sites cheaper than you can sell it. Choosing the right brand/s is one of the most important commercial decisions a salon owner can make so choose wisely.

GET SOCIAL As previously mentioned the need to build and sustain good professional relationships with clients are imperative. But like any relationship it must be nurtured. And in the world of the Internet super highway it’s the easy way to stay connected with our beloved clients through social media. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and blogging are exciting ways to keep connected. But if you’re posting once every ‘blue moon’ or only when you have a special promotion this will not build and sustain the relationship. Be consistent and use social media forums to educate, entertain, and subtle influence clients. This will keep them engaged and following so that when you do throw a promotion into the mix you’ll have their attention. n Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

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INTERIORS

TALKING TRENDS WITH: Adrian Chen Spa Owner, Aztec Skin Clinic and Day Spa, Tuggerah, New South Wales.

Tell us how you chose this beach theme for your salon? “At Aztec Skin Clinic & Day Spa, we are not just about treatments and products, but about creating experiences for our clients. Beaches are such an important part of our lifestyles, and with it associations of great memories. We want to take our clients on a journey, not just to get tangible results with their skin, but to bring that positive association with them as they enter our spa.”

Ecoya Natural Soy Wax Fragranced Candle in Fresh Pine Ecoya 1300 730 180

What factors should salons consider when creating a look? “The important thing salons should consider is to not just think of colours and styles in isolation but to understand your vision, understand what journey you want to give your clients and then build your look from that framework.” Neue Blvd Amour 2.0 Robe Neue Blvd 08 8683 4033 Evergreen Plant Freedom 1800 676 612

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How easy is it to update a look – any tips for salon owners? “It can be as easy or hard as you want to make it. But generally, I would say the more you think ahead, the easier it will be. When you do fit outs, think about the future of the salon and

build in structures such as light boxes, display areas which are flexible and can be changed easily to update your look without doing significant work.” What are some of the key areas salons should invest in when it comes to interior design? “Internal layout, furniture and flexible shelves as mentioned above. Design the retail areas so that they are strategically placed and fit into a proactive customer flow in the store.” Do you change your look with the seasons? “With our setup, we have the flexibility to change our look in the different seasons. We do not change every season but try to plan it strategically to fit with different campaigns and to keep the look fresh.” How would you sum up your salon vibe? “I would say the atmosphere is relaxed but results focused salon which brings clients into an oasis experience amidst the hustle and bustle of life.” www.aztecdayspa.com.au


COLOURS & FINISHES


Building the

PERFECT BUSINESS So you have the beauty business idea and now it’s time to action your plan. How do you choose what model is right for you? Anita Quade chats to some of Australia’s most successful beauty entrepreneurs about launching their salon and their journey to skin care success.

BRICKS AND MORTAR Robyn McAlpine Owner Skintifix HOW I STARTED: “I opened my business in June 2009. I started small, just myself and my laser in a rented room at the back of a hair salon at the quiet end of a busy street. At that stage I didn’t really know if it would work or what the future looked like, all knew is that if I didn’t try, I would always be left wondering. And I am so glad I took the leap! With growth in the business I was able to then move into my current location in Cooks Hill, New South Wales and build my team of exceptional skin therapists. It’s been almost 10 years since that very first day! In that time we have gone through a complete rebrand, waved goodbye to some exceptional team members, warmly welcomed more into the ‘family’ and truly, my business and what it stands for, is one of the great loves of my life.” WHY I CHOSE THIS METHOD OF BUSINESS TO START OUT: “First and foremost, skin is my first love. I’ve learned along the way, and still am always learning how to get better at working with it so, it only seemed natural to start out this way. I had a vision to be a skin focused clinic without the hype, so starting from scratch, I was able to set into motion, steering away from traditional beauty, only focusing on one thing, skin treatments which was a fairly new concept all that time ago. Most businesses had grown into a “one stop shop” for beauty and I was doing the opposite. Thankfully, it created favour for my business as clients could see that instead of spreading our skillset across multiple services and knowing a little about a lot of things, we came to know a lot about a little and focus our entire attention to skin, how it works, inside out and back to front and tailor everything we did around respecting that.” THE LOWDOWN: “Laser Hair removal was our foundation treatment and continues to be a solid performer in the business. Of course, this has seen its challenges, with a saturation of laser businesses flooding the market. This was a big learning curve in how to differentiate ourselves from this. The ground shook, but our foundations were strong and we’ve come full circle, with a new wave of educated clients looking for what we offer. We specialise in corneotherapy- using the bespoke skin care range Dermaviduals, tailor making products for each individual client.

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Our treatments focus on non-invasive skin rejuvenation using the modalities of MAX+ LED light therapy, MTS collagen induction therapy and Derma CIT. I love that I can create results for any skin type and condition that walks through our door. Having one skin care range certainly has not been a limitation for the business.” THE PROS: • Being responsible for everything – I love that it’s up to me to invite success into my business. • Being able to create our own future. • Getting to hand pick my team of skin experts to work alongside. • The flexibility of not being 9-5 and being able to blend work into my lifestyle. THE CONS: • Being responsible for everything – some days being the boss is awful especially when you have to make more difficult business decisions! • Uncertainty and the constant feeling that you are unsure if it really is all going to work out. • Having to be the wearer of all hats and knowing that you aren’t an expert in every area but sometimes still having to do it anyway! BIGGEST LESSON I LEARNT: “That you don’t always have the answers all of the time and that’s totally ok. I do not have it all together. I had hoped that by 10 years in the business that I would be like an old expert and that everything was just clockwork and I just showed up … hahahah! Not even close! There’s still so much hustle to making it work but I have learned to sit with the discomfort that comes with the constant roller coaster of business and feeling like I don’t know what I’m doing. “One of the greatest lessons I have learnt is in leaning into the strengths of my team and allowing them to be involved in the success and growth of the business not just from a treating perspective but in how we all look at the business as a whole. Placing the trust in my team to think bigger, beyond the four walls of the treatment room has really helped grow me as a leader but to also dream on a much larger scale because this business isn’t just about me. It’s about all of us.” THE FUTURE: “I’ve been in a holding pattern for the last 18 months as my business took a bit of a hit and momentarily, my confidence of being the “boss” faltered as I felt my way through the hurdle. “In times like that, my instinctive game plan is to watch and wait, not making any big decisions. I’m re-evaluating my game plan. I will have my long-awaited book to an editor by Christmas and am re-launching my online skin care program ‘Skinside Out’.


BUSINESS

MOBILE/ BRICKS AND MORTAR Katherine Millar-Shannon – Cosmetic Nurse Practitioner Duquessa Clinics Sydney & Melbourne HOW I STARTED: “For 10 years I offered a mobile service (youth on call) travelling to mostly regional clinics in Victoria and NSW offering our services which subsequently grew to me visiting up to 60 clinics within a couple of years.” WHY I CHOSE THIS BUSINESS MODEL TO START OUT: “After completing my Masters of Nursing I grew frustrated at not being able to offer clients more of a holistic approach to anti-ageing treatments whilst we were on the road. So I rebranded the business and opened our first bricks

ONLINE/ BRICKS AND MORTAR Clean Beauty Market, Founder Erin Norden HOW I STARTED: “I launched the retail and online store roughly at the same time about 10 months ago. Before then I was freelancing as a makeup artist and trying to stock my kit with the best clean non-toxic and cruelty free makeup and skincare products. At the time I couldn’t find many that I was really impressed with, and there were a lot of brands that I liked but couldn’t find here in Australia, let alone a physical space to shop clean – that wasn’t the health food store! WHY I CHOSE THIS METHOD TO LAUNCH: “I chose to have a physical and online space for my store as firstly, for beauty, I think it makes sense and will always make sense that there are physical stores. Women need to try and experience the products first-hand and most customers really enjoy that process. Secondly, I couldn’t find a non-toxic retail beauty store that carried luxury, performance-based brands in Australia so I decided to create one. Online is of course, essential, but for beauty and in the green beauty world I felt there was space for a retail storefront.” THE LOWDOWN: “Clean Beauty Market has over 60 brands of makeup, skincare, hair care, perfume, body products and inner wellness products. We have these products available from our retail store on the Gold Coast and our online store. We also have a range of in-store services at our Gold Coast location including makeup application, makeup lessons, workshops, clean beauty

and mortar clinic, Duquessa in 2013, and our second clinic in Sydney in 2016.” THE LOWDOWN: “Initially we offered cosmetic injectables and IPL / Laser treatments and then expanded to encompass beauty, spa and wellness treatments. I’ve since simplified and now am focusing on anti-ageing services, combined with my nursing credentials so I can offer more of a bespoke service.” THE PROS: “I enjoy the challenge, intellectual stimulation, empowering my children to strive and work hard and also being a good role model in the industry.” THE CONS: “As a business owner drawbacks include training staff, constant competition offering inferior treatments and constantly proving my credentials.” BIGGEST LESSON I LEARNT: “Stay small, consolidate, don’t take on too much too soon and just enjoy the ride.” THE FUTURE: “Enjoy life a little more and possibly expand, depending on any new regulations that may come into effect that could affect our scope of practice. I am also taking on an ambassador role for Silhouette Soft and am a trainer for other Nurse Practioners”.

swaps and facial treatments. All of our services are redeemable on product.” THE PROS: “The retail store is a wonderful way to really match people with the best products for them, provide education on clean beauty and the best brands. The service that someone gets from coming in-store is hard to match when someone is buying online – although we do try. Providing an exceptional service goes hand in hand with achieving higher sales and the storefront helps with brand awareness. The fact that we have the in-store services which are redeemable on product also encourages people to walk through our doors. It’s great to have these three elements of the business (retail, online and services) to help continue to drive the growth of the business.” THE CONS: “Obviously having the retail location means we have higher overheads than if we were purely online. We manage the online through our retail location right now, which can be tricky at times to fit everything in and get all the orders out on time as we aim for same day shipping. The three components of the business model each need their own management in a way and being a small business, we still have a relatively small team, but everyone knows their role and what needs to be done so we just get on with it!” BIGGEST LESSON I LEARNT: “Each component of the business needs to be nurtured and each need a different approach for marketing and all are equally important.” THE FUTURE: “I’d love to open a second retail location in due course in a different state. I’d also love to see our online store keep growing. It’s exciting to see clean beauty reaching more and more people and to be able to give customers the best access to clean beauty brands from across the world. This concept introduces customers to products and they may not have even realised that going non-toxic can still mean high performing and luxurious products.” n

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Clicks vs Bricks Many salons are feeling the impact of online retailers. Matt Williams checks out the challenges ahead.

WHAT SHOULD WE all be doing to ensure that we successfully combat the competition from online retailers and continue to build sustainable, predictable and profitable businesses for ourselves? Firstly, I need to emphasise that in business, challenges come in many forms and always will. Sometimes they will come in the form of competition from another channel, or perhaps you’ll have a key team member leave and open up a competing salon down the road. But whether you rise to the challenge or lay down in defeat is entirely up to you. Before I address this current challenge that many salon owners are concerned about, I want to tell you about another catastrophic business challenge that a close friend of mine faced.

REAL LIFE CASE STUDY I had a friend who is a very successful travel agency owner and Telstra Businesswoman of the year and her company was recently ranked in the top 500 privately owned businesses in Australia. At a recent school entrepreneur information day, she was asked this excellent question by a Year Four student: What’s the biggest challenge you have ever had to face in your entrepreneurial life? Her answer was September 11th, 2001. It was interesting that many of the 10-year old kids in the class didn’t know what 9/11 was, but after my friend put that into context, she went on to explain how her whole travel business died overnight. The phone just stopped ringing, the bookings ceased, and the entire business was in jeopardy, with absolutely no warning whatsoever. Her business was predominantly based on international travel and the whole industry came to a grinding halt, as most people simply didn’t want to risk flying. Naturally, this problem didn’t only affect her business, but every travel business. The whole industry was facing the same, seemingly insurmountable challenge. So, what did my friend do? Instead of focusing on what she could

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not change, like many travel agents did at the time, she focused on what she could change. She made a shift into domestic travel and business travel. Australian domestic travel was still doing okay and business travellers still had to fly whether they liked it or not. She adapted quickly and her business survived and in due course, went on to thrive once again.

ADAPT AND THRIVE Your ability to adapt in business will determine how you survive and subsequently thrive. The fact is, that from groceries, to Christmas presents, beauty products to baby items, more and more consumers are shopping online. The bricks and mortar beauty industry is far from the only industry facing this challenge. Because our business Professional Beauty Solutions distributes to some two thousand salons around Australia, I have witnessed first-hand, over the past five years, how salons have coped as we’ve seen this shift in the buying patterns of consumers. I had one salon come to me after a workshop that I conducted back in 2013. At the time, the owner stated that she was really worried about some of these unauthorised online resellers selling our brands at a discount and wanted to know what to do. My advice to her was that we would of course do everything within our power to slow them down, but the best thing that she could do is focus on the clients that weren’t looking online for discounted products. You heard me. Not every customer is after the cheapest possible purchase. Her numbers looked something like this. She had three customers indicate that they were now buying a product online, instead of from her salon (and I am sure there might have been more), but she had several hundred customers still buying from her and she had several hundred more that were active clients of hers, that weren’t buying retail from her. My advice to her was to stop focusing on the handful of discount online shoppers and start focusing on the ones that were loyal to her as well as this untapped market of clients who came in for beauty services, but never purchased retail. What an opportunity! Thankfully, she took that advice and in the last five years, she has gone on to retail over half a million dollars’ worth of retail products from our brands alone! You absolutely can compete, because it’s not just about price. But secondly, you may not even have to because there is more business available than you think.

THE LOWDOWN ON CLICKS Recent research demonstrates that online purchases account for only eight percent of retail sales in Australia. Although that number is growing, it is only


therapists feel uncomfortable “pushing product,” so I urge you not to think about it like that. Don’t think about it as “sales”, think about it as an extension of the way you take care of your clients. Your clients come to you, not only for your amazing treatments, but because they trust you and your counsel. They’ve come to see you because they want to look and feel their best, and they need to know that that’s not just about the one hour a month, or a quarter that they’re in your salon, but what they’re doing every day. Ironically, aside from making their clients feel more comfortable, the salons and spas that approach retail sales from the perspective of helping and advising their clients, rather than a position of “selling to them”, are more likely to drive sales than those who don’t.

GET ONLINE

Your potential customer is not someone flitting around on Google and Facebook from one page to the next. They’re in the same room as you for a significant period of time. This means you have the luxury of really explaining the benefits of your retail products and how your clients can use them to boost their skincare results. Don’t lose focus on the importance of retail products within your own four walls to boost both your clients’ results and your own business success. n

Setting up an online store through your website or through your Facebook page may just offer some of your clients the convenience to order something they need before their next visit.

TAKING CARE OF BUSINESS The best therapists know the importance of what clients put on their skin between visits to the salon and they don’t let customers make the mistake of buying some random mass-produced product off the shopping centre shelves. I also know that a lot of

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF A CAPTIVE AUDIENCE

Matt Williams is the Managing Director of Professional Beauty Solutions. For more information, visit www.probeautysolutions.com.au

• Hypo-allergenic • pH balanced • natural antioxidants • plant based ingredients • no animal content • alcoHol and oil free • cruelty free Professional salon sizes available.

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anticipated to hit 10 percent by the year 2020. That means that even in the next two years, we’re still going to have 90 percent of Australians choosing not to purchase online. How about that! Further, Health & Beauty only accounts for a 7.3 percent share of those online purchases, where as the main categories purchased online are consumer electronics, clothing and books. That is enough of the “don’ts,” so I’m sure you’re wondering what you SHOULD be doing? Some salons ask me if they too should set up an online store. My answer is “absolutely!”.


PROTECTING your BEAUTY

BUSINESS It’s important to get the right cover for your business model. Michael Gottlieb reveals his top tips for safe-guarding your assets. TRADITIONAL BRICKS AND mortar or a beauty salon on wheels? There are some obvious pros and cons to both. But with the price of commercial rent skyrocketing in many Australian cities, there is an ever-growing number of entrepreneurial beauticians making the decision to hit the road and take advantage of the need for on-demand beauty services. There are even beauty apps dubbed ‘the Uber of beauty’ where you can offer your services via the convenience of a quick click on a mobile phone app. Whichever path you choose, it’s important to protect your business against your legal liabilities and other unexpected events. Here’s our guide to getting the right insurance cover for beauticians on the move and those that have a traditional bricks and mortar operation.

Public Liability As a beauty therapist you’re always in close contact with your clients, meaning Public Liability insurance is a core essential cover. This type of insurance protects you if a client, supplier or member of the public makes a claim against you if they believe you are responsible for causing accidental injury to them, or for damaging their property. The great thing about Public Liability cover is that you’re insured for incidents that occur wherever your work takes you – whether it’s a physical salon, mobile service or in your own home. So, for traditional salons it will safeguard

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against common risks such as slips and falls, as well as other injuries. Your policy also includes Product Liability for the products you sell at your salon. But let’s say you’re in a client’s home. What if you accidentally spill makeup or a chemical on their expensive rug? If you have Public Liability insurance, you’re covered. As well as picking up the tab for compensation awarded to your client, it also includes any legal costs and other expenses that are incurred during the handling of a claim.

Professional Indemnity Making your clients look and feel great is what you do best. But what if they end up looking a whole lot worse, even if only in their opinion? Or more worryingly, what if something goes horribly wrong and someone suffers an allergic reaction to a product you’ve used, or a treatment you’ve provided leaves them with permanent scaring? As a professional, you have a duty of care to your clients regardless of where you are providing your service from. And small errors can lead to big problems. They’re expensive to fix and can be damaging to your reputation. Therefore, it makes clear sense for all practicing beauticians to protect themselves with Professional Indemnity insurance in the case of negligence and malpractice. Or if somebody simply decides they’re not happy with the service you’ve provided. Like Public Liability insurance, Professional Indemnity will cover your legal costs and any damages that you may have to pay to your client and often comes as a combined policy with your Public Liability cover. The most important thing to note is that even if you aren’t at fault, a claim of wrongdoing can still cost thousands of dollars in legal fees to defend and effect your business turnover.

Equipment, Contents and Stock This is where the main point of difference is between insuring a traditional bricks and mortar salon or a mobile beauty business. Taking your business on the road may be deceiving when it comes to estimating the value of your


LEGAL

business assets, but once you start to add them up it can be surprising. There’s no doubt you rely on lots of specialised equipment and stock to get the job done. Makeup kits, hairstyling tools, spray-tan guns and treatment products are expensive items to replace. Then there’s laptops and mobile phones to consider that you may use for managing your accounts, taking bookings and talking to your clients. Portable Equipment insurance, also known as General Property, covers the cost of repairing or replacing the ‘tools of your trade’ if they are accidentally damaged, lost or stolen. Unlike other types of insurance which only provide cover at a specified premises, Portable Equipment insurance protects your equipment and stock no matter where you take it within Australia – a must have cover for mobile beauty businesses. Operating a beauty salon from a physical premises, however, is an entirely different kettle of fish. There are many other types of cover options that need to be considered. Contents and Stock will protect just exactly that – the array of contents and stock that your business owns. It will protect against unexpected events such as fire, storm and accidental damage. If you own your premises Building Cover will help cover against the cost of repair or rebuilding any physical buildings if they are damaged or destroyed by fire or other perils. And Business Interruption cover will help get you back on your feet after suffering one of those events by covering your loss of income and the increased costs of running your salon if you are unable to trade.

PUBLIC LIABILITY INSURANCE IS A CORE ESSENTIAL COVER target, accounting for 43% of all victims of cybercrime in Australia. So, regardless of whether you operate a mobile business or salon, if you use a website or social media to promote your business, the internet to receive and pay bills, or an online booking system to manage your clientele, Cyber Liability insurance is certainly one to consider. It will help cover the costs of being hacked (forensic investigation and data recovery) and responding to data breaches if your client’s information is stolen. It will also pay for extortion costs if a cybercriminal infects and locks your systems, demanding thousands of dollars in ransoms.

Personal Accident & Illness Trips, slips and falls don’t discriminate – they happen to everyone. As does illness. At best you could be off work for a few days, but have you stopped to think about how your business would survive if were out of action for weeks or months on end? And despite the many benefits that being self-employed offers, you don’t get any sick pay if you’re unable to work due to illness or injury. That’s why Personal Accident & Illness insurance is an important form of cover for all beauty therapists. It compensates you if you are temporarily unable to work by paying up to 85% of your income, with a benefit period of up to two years. And because it’s tax deductible it’s not a drain on your finances. The best part is that it provides 24-hour protection, so you’re covered whether you injure yourself or fall ill at work, home or whilst on holiday. n

Then there’s additional types of Business Insurance options that owners of a traditional beauty salon should consider buying, including Glass to cover the costs of replacing damaged or broken glass and mirrors; Theft to protect against loss or damage to contents or stock due to a burglary or attempted theft; Money to protect the cash that belongs to your business if it is lost, stolen or damaged; and last but not least, Machinery Breakdown to cover the cost of repairing electronic or mechanical machinery equipment, such as laser and dermabrasion machines.

Cyber Liability With the emergence of cyber criminals and scams, virtually no business is immune to suffering a cyber attack (unless you go completely off-grid!). If fact, small and micro sized businesses are fast becoming the preferred

Michael Gottlieb is the founder and managing director of BizCover, Australia’s No.1 Business Insurance Service. He is an experienced entrepreneur in the insurance industry having founded a number of insurance businesses since 2001, and is featured on Insurance Business Magazine’s 2017 Hot List. BizCover offers multiple competitive quotes from leading insurers online, in a matter of minutes. To find out more or tailor a policy for your beauty business, visit www.bizcover.com.au or call 1300 952 846.

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INDUSTRY INSIDER

UNIFORM

STYLE Founder of The Uniform Stylist Leesa Dawson reveals how her love for fashion turned into a professional business.

You were passionate about fashion as a child – how did you turn this into a business at The Uniform Stylist? “I can still remember sitting at my sewing machine at age eight. For 20 years as a buyer and designer, I had “every girl’s dream job” with lots of overseas travel and a nice clothing allowance. During that time the business of fashion evolved. Consumers started to embrace a slower fashion mentality and the uniform scene started to move away from dated templates. The line between fashion and what people want to wear as a uniform has become blurred. I was recently given the opportunity to design uniforms for a few salons around Melbourne. The beauty industry is all about looking good and feeling good, so it made sense to create uniforms that staff really want to wear.”

What do you enjoy most about your role? “Collaborating with salons directly is what makes my role in this business so amazing. Salon owners tend to have a clear vision about their brand, and I feel privileged to be a part of bringing that to life. Someone emailed me recently to tell me she can’t wait to get her new uniforms. It was as simple as that – my day was made. I work best in a team, so as a small business owner, I try to surround myself with a creative external network so that I’m always inspired and able to learn something new every day.”

How does creating a uniform for staff affect the beauty salon vibe? “At the end of the day, people, especially women, just want to look a little bit amazing, stylish, fresh and professional. There’s the practical side of uniforms sure, they have to perform and be comfortable. Being able to wear a uniform where the salon owner or staff have been involved in the design process – that’s where you see the extra positive energy emerge. Staff are definitely more confident wearing something that has been designed just for them.”

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STAFF ARE DEFINITELY MORE CONFIDENT WEARING SOMETHING THAT HAS BEEN DESIGNED JUST FOR THEM. - Leesa Dawson so that each team member is empowered to make a choice. That way, they will be able to feel good in their outfit. We aim to offer collections with co-ordinated pieces so this can be achieved. As long as there is a style guide in place set by the owner so that the brand aesthetic is not compromised.”

You have been in business more than 20 years any memorable creations? “I’d have to say that each time I start working with a new brand, or company – the very first collection, or sometimes just one style that gets delivered is always the most exciting. At the end of the day, as long as the customer is happy, then those styles instantly become memorable.”

Any advice for salon owners choosing a uniform?

Where do you find your inspiration?

“We’ll always try to accommodate the needs of the individuals within the team. Some women won’t wear a dress, others prefer a skirt over trousers. So try to find co-ordinated pieces

“Dressing women in business over the years has prepared me to spot the common aspects in clothing that work well in a professional environment. I now have an inbuilt library of

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style ideas and have developed a keen eye for commercial designs. What’s special about The Uniform Stylist is that I’m directly inspired by the beauty industry. I have a list of “likes” and “don’t likes” from a few salons now, so that collaborative aspect makes the final cut easier to identify.”

All your uniforms are designed in Australia. Is it hard to remain competive? “It’s not competitive to produce quality uniforms here. We design in Australia, but produce offshore to be able to get the best pricing to ensure salons aren’t blowing budgets with funds that should be allocated elsewhere. Plus, I work with ethical factories who have supported me for many years. With my product in such good hands, I’m able to work with partners that have become part of The Uniform Stylist team (regardless of where they live).”

How important is it for a salon to have a distinct look? “We’re seeing a greater need for a salon to have a distinct look. That’s because it’s becoming harder to stand out amongst competition. Going the extra mile and wearing a more premium uniform – especially in beauty – it’s a great way of achieving this especially if you’re looking at your business and thinking about increasing prices for your services. Having a more ‘top end’ look and feel to your brand, and your salon – is a perfect way to add value to the customer experience.”

MAJOR BUSINESS LESSONS LEARNT • Do what you love and it will never feel like work! • Surround yourself with like minded, positive people who share the same values in business. • There are no short cuts when it comes to quality and customer service. • Dressing well is a form of good manners (to quote Tom Ford). I believe it’s a sign of respect towards your colleagues, your clients and yourself. • Listen to your gut! I didn’t listen to mine for too long and it took it’s toll mentally, financially and physically. Lesson learned.

Can you share with us your future plans? “Yes. We’re heading to Sydney for the Beauty Expo – so we are really looking forward to that! We’re also launching our online store in October with the EMBASSIE collection designed exclusively for the beauty and hair industry. A selection of styles that have been created with input from beauty experts will be available for all to shop online! We’re always open to feedback 24/7, so depending on what the beauty tribe wants – anything could happen next!” n


BUSINESS

FRANCHISEE’S BEWARE

– the buck stops with you. When it comes to franchising it is important to know your rights and obligations Adrian Boothman reveals what you should know. THE GOLDEN AGE of the franchisee truly is dead, and there are few industries where this will have as big of an impact as the hair and beauty industry. There has been much conversation lately in the media about the poor behaviour of franchisees, particularly when it comes to underpayment of staff or poor treatment of staff. But in instances like this, who is truly to blame – the franchisee who did the wrong, or the franchisor who didn’t properly manage the locations? Where does the buck stop on responsibility? Franchises have dominated the hair and beauty space for the past 30 years or more. The rise of brands like Just Cuts in the 90’s, Ella Bache in the 2000’s and Skin Laser Clinics in the 2010’s shows that there is clearly demand for these services, and also in the franchise itself, with thousands of salon owners abandoning their own brands or their own locations for the promise of a secure business and less stress for salon owners. This was often the key selling point for a franchise – that the franchisor would maintain the nitty gritty of business operations, from marketing to compliance and payroll in some cases, for a nominal fee. As a salon owner, you reaped the benefit of their hard work and brought a well-established brand to your local town, and were guaranteed to be printing money as soon as you got up and running (or paid for that extra marketing pack, or paid for that extra training for your staff ) .

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Buyer beware As laws have shifted and changed in the past 30 years, no longer does the above hold true. No longer can the franchisee simply trust in the franchisor to do the right thing by them and their staff, leaving the responsibility solely on the franchisor. Changes in the law mean that franchisee’s are now just as liable for legal action as the franchisor – which begs the question, what are you paying all those fee’s for, if you’re not getting the peace of mind? “Brands that have invested in compliance have found this to be a small price to pay in comparison with negative brand coverage, market cap deterioration and a whole host of legal and accounting problems with franchisees down the track,” said the Fair Work Ombudsman (FWO), Natalie James in a speech in mid-June 2018. As workers become more and more aware of their rights for payment, conditions and hours; and more and more willing and capable to fight back against businesses who do not provide this satisfactorily; the more we are seeing franchisees and franchisors taken to the FWO. This is their legal right, but often results in more complication and stress than a simple day in court, and particularly in the case of franchises, it can be difficult to determine with whom the responsibility lies and therefore who is relied upon to compensate. A detailed media release made available from the FWO stressed the need for all franchisors to demonstrate that they have taken “reasonable steps” to prevent underpayments and other contraventions of employment obligations if they are to avoid liability and brand damage. “The law states a franchise


will not be liable for underpayments where it can show it has taken ‘reasonable steps’ to prevent this from occurring” said Natalie James to the Franchise Management Forum in June of 2018. “The term ‘reasonable’ by its very nature requires that the particular business and its circumstances determine the expectations and the sorts of actions required, and this is where the guide is a great resource.” In her speech, Natalie emphasised how several key franchise brands had learned “after things went wrong for them” that ensuring compliance in a network is an investment, not a cost. Through a series of inspections carried out over a number of years, the FWO observed that the behaviour of franchisees was heavily influenced by settings within their respective franchise network and by the dynamics in the part of the labour market in which it operated. Those franchisees with minimal business experience, an insufficient understanding of the law or a sense of indifference to the law (and in some cases, blatant fraudulent actions) were considered to be the way in which to succeed and make better profits within their franchise. Included in the media release from the FWO was the launch of the “Guide to promoting workplace compliance in your franchise network” – a 20 page document that provides specific detail concerning the actions that franchisors must take following the introduction of the Fair Work (Protecting Vulnerable Workers) Act 2017. This ensures that there are no grey areas within the franchise network and that franchisees are aware of the responsibilities they have to their employees. One fact is clearly evident – the game has well and truly changed for the franchise industry and businesses must ensure that they are aware of their obligations and responsibilities in the new regulatory environment if they wish to safeguard their future. Both franchisees and franchisors are expected to stay abreast of the law and comply with the law in all instances. Franchisees should not rely on the franchisor for compliance in any instance, as as the direct representative of the franchise they are considered to be liable in instances of unlawful behaviour. Franchisors must develop strong structures, policies and behaviours to provide a strong example for franchisees and set the standard across their business and monitor their franchisees to ensure that they are compliant. Compliance rests with everyone across the management levels of the franchise, and this must be carefully managed. n Adrian Boothman, Senior Industrial Relations Adviser, is available to discuss compliance strategies and options available to franchises and can be reached at adrian@askhaba.com.au

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STYLE FILE

SONIA ALLEN Since swapping nuclear medicine for makeup, Sonia Allen has never looked back. The 32-year-old mother-of-one catches up with Michelle Ruzzene to talk all things Brit and beauty.

ON BEING NAMED SMITH & CULT AUSTRALIAN AMBASSADOR: “It was a great honour. I respect the brand for their ethos, for celebrating imperfection, their innovation, quality and sense of fun.”

ON THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY: “I love that being an individual is embraced. Also when brands innovate and come out with something truly spectacular and fun.”

HER PERSONAL MANTRA: “Life begins at the end of your comfort zone.”

MAKEUP ICON: “Kevyn Aucoin. He was a maestro and renowned for making people in his chair feel at ease, which is 95% of our job.”

HOW SHE MAINTAINS HER PASSION: “Mixing it up. I work across TV, fashion (editorial and runway), advertising and bridal. No two weeks are ever the same.“

SIGNATURE LOOKS: “I’m known for creating beautiful creamy skin. When you perfect the skin, you really don’t need much else.”

FAVE INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT: @thefatjewish because who doesn’t love to laugh? And when it comes to beauty, you can’t beat @lisaeldridemakeup.

MAKEUP PHILOSOPHY: “Be happy. Happy people always look their best whether they’re wearing just a bit of pressed powder or rocking a smoky eye.”

FAVE MAKEUP PRODUCTS: “Cream blush and red lipstick.”

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ON SOCIAL MEDIA: “Like most things in life, everything in moderation. I allocate one day a week where I don’t touch my phone and it’s the most liberating feeling.”

IF SHE WASN’T A MAKEUP ARTIST: “I studied makeup while working in London as a nuclear medicine technologist. At the time I wasn’t looking for a career change, but I found my calling! I left the medical life behind.”


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HOW I GOT HERE: VICTORIA CURTIS Owner, director Curtis Collection by Victoria Tell us what you love most the beauty and cosmetic industry... “I love that our industry has the power to lift the self-esteem of a man or a woman by solving a beauty concern. It can be life changing for some of our clients. At Curtis Collection we work on developing confidence building products and cosmetics that can literally transform your complexion instantly. I live for the moment when one of my customers sees herself in the mirror after I apply one of our products on their skin. It’s the moment that I work hard to achieve for all of our clients.”

How did you become owner and creator of Curtis Collection by Victoria? “I have always been involved in the beauty industry in some way. It was my passion. Even during my years at University where I studied Marketing and Accounting, I still worked part time in a beauty salon. I just loved the feeling of watching a woman transform her appearance sometimes within the hour! She always left with a spring in her step, feeling fantastic. The feeling was infectious and the industry captivated me.”

NEVER BELIEVE ANYTHING IS OUT OF REACH. SOMEONE HAS TO DO IT... WHY NOT YOU? Where did you study? “I finished my University degree and received an internship at L’Oréal Australia in the Marketing department. It was during this time that I discovered a gap in the market. I felt there was a need for a makeup brand that offered the luxury of designer cosmetics in the salon space, with the powerful ingredients of skincare. It seemed that by combining these two elements, we could deliver cosmetics that made our customers “purse proud”, without compromising the results of their in salon treatments and ultimately their skin. After years of research and planning, I finally launched Curtis Collection by Victoria into the salon industry and here we are eight years later.”

How many salons are you stocked in? “It seems the brand has grown so quickly and now we are stocked in over 250 salons throughout Australia and also in New Zealand!”

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Any plans to open your own salon? “We are currently in the process of opening our very own Makeup and Training Academy as well as a retail space in Melbourne – it is one of my most exciting projects to date. I look forward to sharing more information in the coming months.”

How long did it take you to launch the Curtis Collection by Victoria? “It took well over three years of research and development before I even had a product to bring to the market. I knew that rushing the process would have resulted in an end product that I was not ultimately happy with. I am a perfectionist, so I was happy to invest a little more time into making our collection exactly what I wanted.”

How did you set out to make your brand different from other brands already on the beauty market? “I always set out to be a disrupter in the market. I had a big brand mentality from day one. I believed that combining skincare and makeup would be a game changer in the salon industry, and it was. I spent time understanding our customers and our retailers and what it was that they really wanted out of their makeup products. This inspired me to create a unique product offering for the salon industry with the luxury and quality of a designer cosmetics.”

Can you share with us any “pinch me” moments in your career journey? “Definitely having our brand sought after by national and international designers at Fashion Week every year is such a huge honour! Partnering with these designers to create their Fashion Week makeup looks for the runway is really an incredible feeling! It is also a “pinch me” moment when I am able to create one of our signature looks on some of Australia’s most famous faces. Seeing their skin glow in Curtis Collection Cosmetics is an amazing feeling and having them personally follow up to purchase the products for themselves is the icing on the cake.”

Any business wisdom for salon owners? “Never believe that anything is out of reach. Someone has to do it.. why not you. My mother taught me this – she is a born optimist and her support and guidance is the reason that I am where I am today.”

What three words sum you up? “Determined, passionate and caring.”


CAREER

Tell us about your own beauty regime? “I love to look after my skin. It’s so important to intervene early - I am all about prevention! I use a cleanser, Vitamin B and C Serum everyday along with a light moisturiser and eye cream. I find that a heavy daily moisturiser can actually effect the way that your makeup sits. A light moisturiser is definitely the best product to use under your primer. I always wait for this to dry a little before applying my makeup so that they two products don’t mix and change consistency. I then apply my Curtis Collection Cosmetics - my favourite daily products are our Skin Refining Face Primer, Matte Perfection Mineral Foundation, Airbrush Finish Mineral Concealer, Baked Bronzer, Glide On Gel Liner, Brow Styler and Tint, Afterglow Highlighting Powder and Plumping Gloss.”

Favourite pampering treatment? “A facial and a massage. I rarely switch off, so these treatments are the one thing that allows me to relax and escape my busy schedule and workload. I am also a new Mum so this definitely helps with the sleep deprivation.”

What is your favourite go to look? Glamorous! It has always been my signature look, although in saying that it feels amazing to create a natural look with products that actually work and cover my imperfections without looking like I am wearing makeup!

You like being a “hands on” owner, working at fashion week, hosting events – what is your favourite part of the job? “The best part is when I see an idea come to life! Something that was literally a thought, developing into a new product, an event or a runway show. There is so much hard work that goes into these projects, so when they finally come to fruition it’s an amazing feeling.

Is there a least favourite part? “I really don’t have a least favourite task. I honestly love working in every facet of the business. It gives me ideas on how I can improve that process or procedure which excites me.”

Biggest business lesson? “I don’t refer to any business decision as a “mistake”. Every decision you make, positive or negative, is actually a learning experience. Either way, whatever it teaches you, it can only benefit you in future.”

5 TOP TIPS FOR BRAND OWNERS TO CONSIDER WHEN SETTING UP A BUSINESS • • • •

Do your research! Spend time understanding and analysing your target market Don’t compromise on the quality of your products Assess and research the industry that you are entering, any barriers to entry and your direct and indirect competition • Differentiate yourself from your competitors and focus on offering the market something unique

VICTORIA CURTIS MAKEUP TREND PREDICTIONS FOR 2018 • Soft, romantic makeup hues that enhances your natural features with fresh dewy skin • Technology will continue to evolve and makeup products will become more advanced and exciting in the years to come • Brows will remain a huge trend in the future, shape and style may change again over time to reflect a more natural look • The contouring trend will revert back to colour on the cheeks for a fresher more natural look • The no makeup, makeup look will evolve into a more glamorous daily look as the popularity and interest in makeup increases • The online cosmetics world will dominate in years to come creating an environment where you can easily style your makeup online. We love being one step ahead at Curtis Collection which is why I developed our Makeup Styling Guide - now live on our website. Our customers can use our guide to discover the Curtis Collection products that will work best on their skin type and the shades that will complement and enhance their skin, eyes and hair tones! Our Styling Guide is all about bringing your best features to life!

As a makeup artist you must see new techniques all the time – can you share with us some of the latest trends? “Ombre lips are a huge trend right now as well as feathery, full brows. Our V Technique is something I swear by! It involves creating the illusion that the face is lifted and sculpted by using our Airbrush Finish Mineral Concealer under the eyes and along the cheekbones. ”

Any beauty blunders you can share with us? “Yes! Wearing the wrong shade of foundation and also the incorrect shades of eye and lip colours for your skin undertone and hair colour. At Curtis Collection by Victoria, we believe in styling your makeup. This means creating a wardrobe of makeup looks that compliment your skin’s undertone, whether it be warm or cool. For example, if you have a warm undertone to your skin, you should only use warm eye shadow and lip shades to enhance this rather than cool shades that will wash your skin out.”

What plans do you have for the brand? Any new product launches? “Our Makeup and Training Academy is my main focus right now. Right now I am also working on some gorgeous eye shadow palettes to introduce to tthe market.”

If you weren’t working in beauty what would we find you doing? “I am actually an accountant by trade so probably working in the financial industry.”

Any celebrities you would love to see using the brand? “Jennifer Lopez, Gigi Hadid and Emilia Clarke.” n

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PROMOTION

COSMOPROF ASIA

INNOVATIONS PUT FOCUS ON

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE Cosmoprof Asia 2018, the leading B2B beauty event for the AsiaPacific region, will showcase trends and advanced technologies influencing customer experience in the future. SPECIFIC INITIATIVES WILL involve attendees in the manufacturing process and selling of beauty products, both in Cosmopack Asia, which will host companies of the supply chain from 13 to 15 November in AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE), and in Cosmoprof Asia, which will feature exhibitors of finished products, from 14 to 16 November at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). Special attention will be paid to customisation, an important emerging feature in the global beauty market.

SKINTONIC

SKINTONIC is a real installation specially designed by International design agency Centdegrés to provide visitors with a unique experience from the production to the selling of the SKINTONIC product in retail stores. This initiative involves both fair venues in a journey which includes the manufacturing steps of a luxury cosmetic product, to design solutions and technologies created by LTU-Tech. The “SKINTONIC – The Factory” at AWE will showcase the production process of a special serum with anti-ageing and lifting effects. At HKCEC, visitors will continue their experience at “SKINTONIC – The Shop”, a concept store of the future featuring elements of virtual and augmented reality as well as IoP – Internet of Product, a brand-new packaging approach to beauty products. Selected exhibitors of Cosmopack Asia will be partners of the project. They include: Citus Kalix - a Coesia company – a global leader in the machinery sector; Quadpack – which is recognised worldwide for its innovative packaging solutions; Pinkfrogs Cosmetics – an Italian Skin & Haircare contract manufacturer and Homer Printing – a leading printer and folding cardboard boxes manufacturer.

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COSMOLAB

From 13 to 15 November, Cosmopack Asia will host COSMOLAB, in collaboration with Opal Cosmetics. The featured area will demonstrate the manufacturing process of personalised shampoo, the advanced technology of A.I. – Artificial Intelligence and Industry 4.0 – automated and data-driven manufacturing technologies. Visitors will interact with an A.I. robot, serving as both sales person and chemist, which will store analytics based on hair types and features of each attendee. These data will be used to create a unique formulated shampoo sample (40ml) as giveaway for visitors. COSMOLAB represents a new model of consumer experience where customers provide the data for the manufacturing process. It is an industrial and technological revolution with a strong impact on the relationship connecting customers, products and suppliers.

ON HAIR EVENT

ON HAIR, a highlight in Cosmoprof Asia dedicated to the hair sector, will feature live demonstrations and shows at Cosmoprof Onstage, Hall 5C, HKCEC. The event is made possible through the collaboration with AHMA – Asia Hair Masters Association, Hong Kong, which will host the Hong Kong Hair and Styling Arts Festival 2018 on 14 and 15 November comprising hair contest, awards ceremony and industrial summit. This much-anticipated event is expected to see the participation of 200 contestants and close to 1,000 audience at the award ceremony and hair show. Meanwhile, shows and live demos are scheduled for Cosmoprof Onstage, to be held at Hall 5C of HKCEC, giving visitors a preview of new make-up techniques, nail trends, as well as the most innovative beauty treatments and product designs. For further information, visit www.cosmoprof-asia.com Pre-registration for visitors is now open online: www.cosmoprof-asia.com/en-us/ VISITING/Pre-registration



MARKETING

Success

IS IN SITE

Jonathan Carroll explains the value of a good website and why most clinics are falling down in this critical area of their marketing.

IT MAY SURPRISE you to learn that your clinic website is the most valuable marketing asset you have. Most clinics will say it’s their staff, expertise, technology or quality of service that is the most valuable, but consumers will never get to experience all of those qualities if they have never even heard of your clinic. This year has already been a big year of changes, namely with Facebook stopping clinics from reaching consumers via posting on their clinic Facebook page. In January, Facebook announced that: “Posts you see in your News Feed are meant to keep you connected to the people, places and things that you care about, starting with your friends and family”. This means Facebook will now give priority to the photos, videos and content from your friends and family, ahead of your business’s unpaid posts. To reach potential customers for your clinic or salon, paid advertising is now a must and your website is the celebrity in this equation.

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What is paid advertising? There are two main paid advertising platforms our agency sees working well for clinics; Facebook/Instagram and Google. Through the Facebook Ads Manager, your clinic can advertise on Facebook, Instagram and their network of websites. Through Google AdWords you can create an ad that sits at the top of a Google search, targeting a particular search term. Both channels are essentially buying a visitor or a click to your website. It is important to understand this because the goal of paid advertising is not to interact so much with a person on Google or on Facebook, the primary purpose is to get them to click on your ad to visit a page on your website. Essentially you are renting space on one of the major social media or search engines.

Just how important is your website? Your website is the most critical part of your marketing strategy. We consistently see clinics spending $50,000+ per annum on digital advertising across Facebook, Instagram, Google AdWords and Search Engine Optimisation (SEO), only to fail as they spent $2,000 on a website with poor content, giving a bad user experience and not converting well. The primary goal of digital advertising is to make a person click from Facebook, Instagram or Google to your website. It is then the job of your website to turn that visitor into a lead (phone call, online booking, online


enquiry or subscription), to get their contact details so your in-clinic team can convert them to a customer. Many of the consumers you are targeting on social media will never have heard of your business before. Your website gives the visitor a first impression about your company. If this first impression is poor, you will most likely never hear from this consumer, your competition will. As a digital agency, we see many clinics and practices wasting their budget on digital advertising because the website backing it up is poor. Often this leads to a clinic owner blaming Facebook, Instagram or Google advertising for lack or ROI or performance. The quality or experience a visitor gets on your website comes down to many things; how fast it loads, if it is a good experience on mobile, if the visitor can find what they are looking for fast and much, much more. A ‘good experience’ is a direct result of good website design and layout backed up by well written content.

PAID ADVERTISING IS NOW A MUST AND YOUR WEBSITE IS THE CELEBRITY IN THIS EQUATION.

The importance of a mobile-friendly website On average, 60% to 70% of consumers visit a clinic’s website on their mobile. Facebook alone has over seven million daily mobile users in Australia. Google has announced it will be moving to a mobile first algorithm, that it will be prioritising those websites that give a good experience on mobile. It is safe to assume that if you send an email to a client, they will read this on their mobile. If a consumer clicks on a Facebook ad, they will visit your website on their mobile. When was the last time you read your treatment page on your mobile? Does it look good? Is the information presented well? Do you have the most important information at the top of the page with a clear next step for the visitor? So it’s time to have a think about your clinic or salon website. Make sure you review your website frequently from a consumers’ point of view. Test the phone number and test the forms on your website to make sure it is working. If you have an old website that you have never fixed up, it may be time to upgrade to a newer model with better performance! n

Dual Award Qualification Beauty & Makeup Box Hill and Lilydale, Victoria Graduate with two certificates delivered as a dual qualification, our unparalleled SHB30115 Certificate III in Beauty Services and SHB30215 Certificate III in Make-up and become a highly sought after beauty therapist or makeup artist. Learn specialised skills in a range of the latest trends and techniques such as waxing, manicures and pedicures, make-up, ear piercing, nail enhancements, cosmetic tanning and tinting services also including special occasion, bridal and fashion make-up, airbrushing, camouflage, fantasy make-up and visual displays. COURSES IN / (SHB30115) Certificate III in Beauty Services & (SHB30215) Certificate III in Make-up

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Jonathan Carroll is the Marketing Director at Engage Online Marketing. Contact www.EngageOnlineMarketing.com.au RTO 4687 CRICOS 02411J


BUSINESS

THE ULTRACEUTICALS

Australia roadshow Celebrating 20 years of skincare the company toured around Australia revealing its innovations and plans for the future.

ULTRACEUTICALS AUSTRALIA KICKED off its 2018 Business Forums tour around Australia with a spectacular event at The Beach House in Sydney’s Point Piper. During the two-day event for key salon partners, CEO Karen Wilkin-Donachie and founder Dr Geoffrey Heber announced the company’s plans for “further global expansion” into North America next year and revealed the company’s slated product launches for this year Ultraceuticals research scientist Dr Shiva Farabi told the brand’s salon partners about “some exciting innovations within the company’s R&D laboratory”. She introduced “the new technology” behind the company’s soon to be released Ultra Smoothing Pore Refiner by demonstrating “the specific delivery system which enables the Alpha Hydroxy Acid within the product to be exceptionally effective at refining large pores”.

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She also “delved into the complicated but exciting biochemistry mechanism behind some of the most potent peptides in the skincare market” (and several Ultraceuticals products). Ultraceuticals education innovator Heather Vounnou held a full-day seminar focusing on understanding ageing. The seminar examined the histology of ageing skin while also exploring a variety of factors (including circadian rhythms, telomeres and hormones such as DHEA) that accelerate the ageing process. Heather also taught salon partners how to effectively communicate this information to their clients “in a relevant and meaningful way”. Ultraceuticals public relation managers Adrian De Brock says other highlights at the forum included “invaluable business development sessions along with some insights into digital marketing and social media from the sales and digital teams”. The company will also be exhibiting at this year’s Beauty Expo Australia – which will be a major platform for Ultraceuticals to mark its 20th year as a pioneer in Australia’s cosmeceutical industry in Sydney on September 8-9. n


TECHNOLOGY

BE UNIQUE To stay ahead of the game it’s time to work on your point of difference explains Dan O’Donnell.

I’VE WORKED AS a marketing manager in the beauty industry for over 13 years and there is one thing I am certain of. The market for beauty-related services is unlikely to become less competitive. Every month it seems like new market entrants from different service, retail and online channels are all trying to claim a piece of the beauty and skincare markets. In this competitive market, growth is likely to be hard fought. Discounting and price competition with the hope of increasing client numbers is unlikely to deliver sustainable, profitable growth for your business. In mature, competitive markets the strategies that are most likely to deliver success for your business are differentiation and maximising your share of your client’s wallet. My preferred way to think of differentiation is having something that is difficult, ideally impossible, for your clients to get anywhere else. It is not just about being different in any way. It is about being different in a way that is meaningful to your client’s purchasing decision. If your clients don’t perceive that difference as something that matters to them then it won’t contribute profitably to business growth. What you need to test is your client’s intent to purchase rather than simply if they think it sounds like a good idea. Maximising your share of your client’s wallet is about providing the greatest number of services that you have the credibility to offer. The objective is to intelligently select higher-value extensions of your current services or new services that appeal to your demographic. New technology can form a vital tool for clinics wanting achieve both differentiation and maximising their share of the client’s wallet. Investing in a set of quality devices can enhance the results you can achieve for your clients and allow you to offer more value. It also assists to maintain the relevance of professional treatments by reinforcing in a tangible way that clients are coming to you to experience something that they can’t replicate at home. Some key questions to ask yourself when assessing technology is whether it will allow you to treat something new in the skin, will it give you the chance to earn more per hour or will it offer something you know your clients value in a new and better way? The best example I have seen in recent times that achieves these goals is the Hydrafacial. It consistently achieves a result that is comparable or better than an advanced facial but it achieves this in only 20-30 minutes. Busy clients value the fact that Hydrafacial can achieve the result they want in less time and they pay a premium for that convenience, but at the same time therapists can perform two treatments in an hour and achieve revenue in the range of $300 to $500 per hour plus product sales. In essence it has added value, doubled the capacity of the therapist and committed the client to a service that they can only receive in-clinic. n Dan O’Donnell is National Marketing Manager of High Tech Medical and has over 18 years experience launching equipment, retail, and service brands including Hydrafacial, Coolsculpting, MonaLisa Touch, IPL and laser devices. www.hightechmedical.com.au.

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Plasmage from Brera Medical Technologies is a device for non-invasive treatments and can treat many aesthetic and dermatological indications including wrinkles, xanthelasma, acne, scars, lentigo, fibroma and verrucas. It can treat delicate areas safely, like upper and lower eyelids, where lasers and radio surgical units cannot. Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011.

Comfortel Claudia Make Up Chair with Footrest features grey leather look upholstery and brushed metal padded arm rest, making it a stylish addition to any salon that offers services including makeup application, threading, lash extensions and brow waxing and enhancement. Comfortel Furniture www.comfortel.com.au

Cynosure’s body-contouring device SculpSure now has a Submental offering. The non-invasive treatment, which uses 1060nm laser technology to safely heat and destroy the fat under the skin, is now FDA cleared to treat the double chin (also known as the submental) area for patients with a BMI up to 43. Cynosure 02 9484 4546



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WELLNESS

FAST TRACK WITH

Chiza Westcarr Nutritionist and skin specialist and founder of the Nutritional Skincare Academy Tell us about your role as a skin specialist and nutritionist? “I qualified as a skin therapist in 1996 and then worked on a cruise ship. I began teaching in 2000 and I soon realised that imparting knowledge and empowering through education was my bliss! After returning to Australia following a hiatus of seven years, I taught at a beauty school in Sydney called the Strand College of Beauty Therapy for two years before moving on to become a Dermalogica trainer for another two years. I was then invited back to the Strand as College Principal, preparing the students for both the National and International Diplomas. I did this for a year before accepting an amazing opportunity to move into Medical Aesthetics as NSW State trainer for a Cosmeceutical Product Distribution Company.”

What did you lessons did you learn along the way? “As I taught medical practitioners about the role of active ingredients in managing ageing and a variety of skin conditions, it soon became apparent to me that a piece was missing from the jigsaw puzzle so I went on to make nutrition my focus and started to incorporate it into my training classes. The more I studied, the more I knew that I needed to share this amazing information with my peers in our industry and so the Nutritional Skincare Academy was born.”

Tell us about the Nutritional Skincare Academy... “The Academy has been created to empower skin specialists with additional tools to achieve outstanding, long lasting results for the clients and patients with nutrition being a real focus. This has been a much neglected area in training up until now. None of our skin therapy programs in colleges or in higher institutions incorporate nutrition into their curricula and yet it is the most important aspect of skin health. You are what you eat after all.”

What does the Academy offer those in the industry wanting to expand their knowledge? “The Nutritional Skin Care Academy offers both online and face to face seminars, providing a forum for skin specialists to both contribute to and learn from. Not everyone wants to go back to study nutrition at degree level and I have found that by combining my expansive skin knowledge with my knowledge of nutrition these seminars provide the exact information that is really needed.”

How popular in the industry has your online training for salon professionals been? “The interest in my courses have exceeded my wildest expectations. Word of mouth and social media have been great in

raising awareness. My aim is to reach every skin specialist in Australia. We cannot hope to achieve success and gain the confidence of our clients/patients if we don’t adopt a holistic approach and this is something all skin specialists should feel confident doing.”

What are the benefits for salon staff to upskill? “Our industry has evolved from mainly providing fluffy facials, manicures and waxing to becoming focused on addressing problematic skin conditions and achieving lasting results for clients thanks to access to improved product formulations and in-clinic modalities. Now we can add a new focus on internal support because as skin therapists we are in charge of the largest organ of the body – the skin.

How is the skin related to gut health? “The skin is a true barometer of what is going on internally with a real connection between conditions such as acne, rosacea, eczema and psoriasis and gut health. Topical products and in-clinic modalities will only take you so far when it comes to achieving fantastic results for your clients. Glowing healthy skin is a reflection of a healthy diet and lifestyle.”

How can salons incorporate this knowledge into their business practice? “Surprisingly, it’s very easy actually. We are seeing a rise in the number of nutracetutical companies targeting our industry because they understand that this is the missing link. By empowering the skin therapist and increasing the understanding of how and why nutrition impacts skin health, adding nutraceuticals into the homecare recommendations will definately increase sales.”

Tell us about your future plans… “After Australia, the world, I want to empower skin specialists the world over taking one country at a time! I am so grateful for the opportunity to make a difference! n Chiza Westcarr is a university qualified nutritionist and skin specialist and founder of the Nutritional Skincare Academy. For further details visit: www.nutritionalskincareacademy.com

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WELLNESS

JUST ADD WATER:

THE RISE of beauty

supplements Watch out for this new beauty category – it’s not just a flash in the pan trend reveals Allen Sleiman. THE BEAUTY LANDSCAPE is being flooded by a wave of beauty supplements, which make it as simple as popping a pill to get a glow boost. Last April, social media influencer Tati Westbrook revealed her own line of bright pink beauty supplements, called Halo Beauty, to her 1.3 million Instagram followers and 4.2 million Youtube subscribers. Within the first day, Westbrook had sold more than 25,000 bottles – around half her stock. Westbrook is not the only one to ride the supplement wave. The beauty industry is betting big on supplements. According to Goldstein Research, the global beauty supplements market is expected to thrive, reaching US $6.8 billion by the end of 2024. The ‘beauty from within’ mantra speaks to millennial consumers—aged 18-34—who think of cosmetics as a lifestyle, not a routine. And today’s beauty supplements are smack bang in the centre of the Venn diagram of millennial lifestyles: health, beauty, and social media. In this brave new world of beauty, it’s about health: healthy skin, healthy hair and healthy ageing. Sift through Instagram’s skincare tags and you’ll find ‘shelfies’ (the aesthetic arrangement of skincare collections) with beauty supplements sitting next to glass bottles of lotions and potions. On Reddit’s skincare communities, people just shy of their 20th birthdays ask about the best products to prevent fine lines and wrinkles. Why? The beauty conversation has turned away from treating existing wrinkles with topical skincare. We’ve decided that it’s easier to maintain what we have than regain what we’ve lost. We’re talking

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Here are the five most effective and scientifically studied ingredients to look out for:

1. Collagen peptides

Collagen is the key structural protein that gives our skin elasticity. As we age, our bodies naturally produce less collagen, and the collagen structures that keep the skin firm break down. Lines and wrinkles appear more easily, and our skin becomes quickly dehydrated. A good collagen supplement will use collagen peptides. Collagen peptides are obtained by breaking down collagen proteins into smaller molecular weights. This smaller form of collagen is easily digestible and highly bioavailable, making it the ideal option for beauty supplements.

2. Hydrolysed casein

Casein is a protein derived from milk and contains all the essential amino acids for repairing and regenerating the skin. When protein is consumed, the digestive processes break down the protein into amino acids, which are then carried throughout the body. Cells throughout the body select the amino acids they need to construct new tissue. Since skin cells are replaced about every 24 days, a regular source of protein is a beauty essential.

3. Beta-glucan

This is a soluble fibre rich in antioxidants. Beta-glucan isn’t produced naturally by the body, but can be found in bacteria, yeast, fungi and bran. Beta-glucans in beauty supplements act as a prebiotic, providing fuel for beneficial colonies of gut bacteria.

4. Green tea

Green tea is rich in polyphenols, which is a group of naturally occurring micronutrients in plants. Green tea is about 30% polyphenols by weight, including large amounts of catechins, the natural antioxidants that reduce systemic inflammation throughout the body. 12-week studies of green tea catechin supplementation show that green tea can protect against acne-causing inflammatory damage, improve the skin barrier function and provide some protection against UV-induced skin damage.

5. Anthocyanins

These have strong antioxidant properties, By taking these in a supplement anthocynanins have been optimised for bioavailability, letting the skin benefit from its ability to fight oxidative stress.


more about preventing the overall damage to the body from urban pollution, environmental stressors and UV damage. Knowing that topical skincare can only do so much, beauty supplements are the next logical step. And the logic makes sense. Most topical skincare products only address the surface layer of the skin, but all the markers of good skin health—collagen production, elastin production and hyaluronic acid content—occur in the skin’s deeper layers. Consumers are realising that what we do internally shows up on our skin – and that it makes for great social media fodder. Yoga on the beach and plates of organic whole foods are part and parcel of a social media beauty influencer’s feed because they promise the possibility of beauty as a lifestyle. This mantra means that a lifestyle rather than a product becomes a realistic goal – particularly for millennials who are sceptical of the promises made by traditional advertising. The aspirational beauty lifestyle promises that you don’t need a great deal of purchasing power to actively work towards your beauty goals. Exercise and healthy eating cost less than bottles of prescription skincare or injectables. And for those who want a touch of luxury, a beauty supplement with your post-workout brunch will rehydrate and refuel you while boosting your skin’s health at the same time. (Extra points if it’s Instagram-friendly.) Non-beauty brands have capitalised on consumer desire to make beauty a lifestyle. In America, beauty supplements sit next to clothing and furniture in stores like Anthropologie and Free People. Online retailers like Net-a-Porter have dedicated wellness categories in their beauty section. And it’s paying off. Mintel’s September 2017 analysis reports that 41% of American women aged 18-34 use an oral supplement designed to enhance their appearance. The market shift towards wellness and health creates an opening for all sectors of the beauty industry to get a foothold. For cosmetics brands, it’s an opportunity to look at expanding product ranges and consumer reach. For salon owners, beauty supplements provide a powerful way of establishing a point of difference. Mintel’s Senior Beauty Analyst Laurie Du suggests that offering beauty drinks in store could enhance client experience. Herbal tea is a standard offering, but salons should consider offering beauty supplements before, during and after a client’s appointment to set them apart from the pack. Of course, with the market is full of supplements, choosing the right one can be daunting. If you’re considering bringing beauty supplements into your salon, it’s worth asking your clients if they have any favourite brands or recommendations. It’s a great way to build rapport with your clients and find out what they want from their beauty lifestyles. n Allen Sleiman is the founder of Fountain Cosmetics, an Australian-made brand based in Sydney, Australia. Fountain Cosmetics specialises in creating cuttingedge skincare, haircare and grooming products for healthy ageing. www.fountaincosmetics.com

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All About That Base

The Beauty Base is putting Narellen, an historic town part of the Macarthur region, on the map. Laser and dermal clinic manager Danielle Lye shares why. Tell us about The Beauty Base? “The Beauty Base was established 20 years ago starting with four rooms, which soon expanded to nine treatment and two tan rooms. In 2016 we opened our new, global award-winning Luxury Spa and Clinic, which is the home to 12 luxurious treatment rooms, two tanning rooms, four pedicure and manicure stations, makeup quarters and our quiet, sitting tea room which overlooks the Narellan water fountain. Between our Luxury Spa and Clinic and our brand new Laser and Dermal Clinic, both located in Narellan Town Centre, we have 32 staff.”

What are the most popular treatments with clients? “Our Hydrafacial is rapidly becoming one of our most popular treatments as it delivers results almost instantly - giving clients what they long to achieve. The three-step process involves Cleanse + Peel with a gentle exfoliation, Extract + Hydrate which removes debris from pores with painless suction and Fuse + Protect which saturates the skin with antioxidants and peptides to maximise skin glow, with no down time.”

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Tell us about some of the salon’s highlights? “We like to continuously put our team through ongoing training. Not only to benefit our clients, but to introduce new and exciting treatments which set us aside from the rest. We have a doctor and nurse come into our salons once a fortnight to offer injectables, we have a cosmetic tattooist available for on-point eyebrows and beyond.”


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Tell us about the tanning side of the salon? “We are renowned for our perfectly bronzed tans and instill in our clients to prep their bodies before their appointment. After we choose your perfect custom shade of tan, our high pressure, state-of-theart tanning machine will leave you looking even and glowing. We ensure all our clients feel comfortably dry before leaving and are always beyond happy with their tan and experience. Our favourite tan to recommend is Glo On The Go from Naked Tan.” n The Beauty Base Luxury Spa and Clinic 02 4646 1832 The Beauty Base Laser and Dermal Clinic 02 4647 8806 www.thebeautybase.com.au

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SKINCARE

Skin Cancer is SERIOUS BUSINESS With the rise in skin cancer, Deborah Mangum-Copelli reveals how salon owner’s advice can help save lives.

AS SKIN CARE THERAPISTS with your educated knowledge of your clients’ largest organ, their skin, you can easily become a vigilant detective for skin cancers. You are doing face and neck consultations with each of your clients and are in a privileged position to inform them of any abnormalities. Airing on the conservative, you can recommend that your client see their GP or a dermatologist should you have any suspicions regarding a defective mole or unusual pigmented area on any part of their body. It’s better to be safe than to have regrets later! Your advice to your client regarding any questionable skin spots could seriously save their lives. Celebrities like Australia’s own, Deborah Hutton have recently taken to the press to reveal their own personal challenges with skin cancer. It was after reading Deborah’s story and my own personal experience that I thought it’s timely to

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take a closer look at how those of us in the skin care industry can be more vigilant for our clients. So, let’s review the basics behind skin cancers. About two out of three Australians and New Zealanders will develop a skin cancer of some kind during their lives; geographically, we have some of the highest rates of skin cancer in the world. It usually occurs in people who have been exposed to too much ultraviolet light from the sun starting from a young age; and especially if they’ve been burned to the blistering stage. Skin cancer is the uncontrolled growth of abnormal skin cells and the danger is that it can spread or metastasize to other vital organs in the body if left untreated. Fairskinned and light-eyed people and those with red hair and freckles along with those who burn easily from the sun, are those most at risk, but even darker skinned people can get skin cancer. And of course those with a family history of melanoma are also in a high-risk category. Our likelihood of developing skin cancer increases from age 40, however in recent years more young adults and teens have been diagnosed with skin cancers from over-exposure to UV. As a skin area of irregularity or lesion increases in size and depth, the area should be treated promptly because it could be a deadly melanoma. Skin cancer can be just as life threatening as any other cancer in the body if left undetected and untreated.


Skin structure and function

Types of Skin Cancer

Your skin provides protection for blood, tissue, muscles, bones, organs and all that lies beneath. It helps to regulate your body temperature and prevents dehydration; it’s thin outer layer, or epidermis, is made up largely of layers of squamous cells. Deeper in the epidermis are the basal cells and scattered among these are the melanocyte cells that produce the pigment melanin, which gives us our skin colour. Freckles and moles have more melanin; hence their darker pigmented colour. Underneath the epidermis is the dermis, which contains the roots of hairs, glands, blood and lymph vessels and nerves.

The three main types of skin cancer are named after the skin cell from which they originate, and they are: • Basal cell carcinoma (BCC) • Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) • Melanoma (BCC and SCC are often referred to as, “nonmelanoma” skin cancer)

Development of skin cancer

Basal cell carcinoma (BCC)

Changes in the structure and function of skin cells caused by over exposure to UV radiation can cause permanent damage to the cells; even brief exposure for susceptible people can cause long-term harm. Exposure to UV in childhood and adolescence is a major factor in the development of skin cancers, and the longer-termed exposure increases your risk. The actual skin cancer lesion however can occur anywhere on the body, even in areas where little or no exposure has occurred.

BCC is the most common and fortunately the least dangerous of the skin cancers. It grows slowly over a period of months or years and only rarely spreads to other parts of the body. However, a BCC can grow vertically and horizontally under the skin and if left untreated can damage the delicate tissue surrounding it, especially when the lesion is on the nose or near the eyes. BCC’s occur most often on the face, head, neck and upper trunk but can appear anywhere. It starts as a small round or flattened lump or ulcer that is red, pale or pearly in colour and blood vessels might be noticeable on the surface of the bump. When one BCC develops, more are likely to appear in the future, so it’s best to have annual skin checks with a dermatologist.

Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC)

ABOUT TWO OUT OF THREE AUSTRALIANS AND NEW ZEALANDERS WILL DEVELOP A SKIN CANCER OF SOME KIND DURING THEIR LIVES.

An SCC grows faster than a basal cell carcinoma, over weeks to months. In most cases it’s caused by many years of exposure to the sun. About two in 10 Australians and New Zealanders will have an SCC. You will find these frequently on the hands, head, neck and forearms where typically there is more UV exposure. SCC is more serious than a BCC and can spread to other parts of the body and should be treated promptly. SCC looks like a red scaly spot or lump and is usually thickened. It can bleed easily and may ulcerate; it is also tender to the touch. Most people with an SCC are over 40, but it can occur in those younger as well.

Signs of Suspicious-Looking Spots

Melanoma

• A new spot that looks different from other spots around it • A sore that does not heal • A mole, spot or freckle that has changed in size, shape or colour

About five people out of 100 will have a melanoma skin cancer; the most dangerous if not detected and treated very early. It is highly malignant, can occur on any part of the body, including those areas never exposed to the sun. In women a melanoma is more common on the arms and legs, and in men on the face, chest and back. About half of all cases of melanoma develop from moles and the other half on previously normal skin as a new lesion. The signs that a mole or spot might be transforming

Less Common Causes of Skin Cancer • • • •

Some immune-suppressant drugs and medications Psoriasis UV therapy Sunlamps, sunbeds and solariums Over-exposure to chemicals like paraffin waxes, petroleum derivatives, arsenic, coal, tar, soot, and asphalt • Some rare hereditary conditions

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SKINCARE if you have ever had a BCC, SCC or a melanoma the likelihood of getting more is quite high, so it’s best to have regular dermatologist visits. With a melanoma, your dermatologist will want to see you every three months for the first year and then every six months for the second year and annually after that.

Non-Cancerous Lesions Kerato-acanthoma is a rapidly growing benign tumor that looks similar to a SCC. It still needs to be removed so a pathologist can give a conclusive diagnosis from the lab. It is treated the same as an SCC, however it will not spread to other parts of the body, but can recur again locally. They can sometimes heal without treatment. Solar keratosis, also known as sunspots, are red, scaly areas most often exposed to sunlight. You will find them on the forearms, hands, face, ears and neck. The size varies from two to 20 millimeters in diameter and they are usually not painful or itchy, but might sting when exposed to sunlight or if rubbed or scratched. Even though a solar keratosis is benign, treatment is necessary, as it can become an SCC over time. The appearance of these is a warning that the skin is badly sun-damaged and must be watched carefully for cancerous lesions. into a melanoma are commonly referred to as: • A (asymmetry)-one half unlike the other half • B (borders)-irregularity, scalloped or poorly circumscribed • C (colour)-varied from one area to another; shades of tan, brown, black; sometimes white, red or blue • D (diameter)-larger than 6mm as a rule; diameter of a pencil eraser A melanoma can and will spread very quickly if not treated; it can metastasize to multiple organs of the body and can result in permanent damage and death. Where there are now new treatments and medications for advanced stages of melanoma there is still no tested and proven cure.

Diagnosis of Skin Cancer As a skin care therapist, you cannot diagnosis your client’s suspicious skin lesions, but you can recommend your clients book in with their GP or dermatologist. Most GP’s will then refer your client on to a dermatologist for further analysis. At this appointment your client will have all of their skin anomalies observed and for those with lesions, a biopsy will be performed where the pathology lab can give a conclusive diagnosis. For known BCC or SCC, the doctor will cut the lesion under a local anesthetic, send it to the lab where the margins will be tested and if they are clear there will be no further treatment necessary. However if it is a suspected melanoma, then most often your client will need to return after the initial biopsy for a deeper and wider incision to assure all of the malignancy has been removed. Either way, it is a simple and painless procedure that could save your client’s life. Unfortunately,

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Removal of a Skin Cancer Some dermatologist’s are also Mohs surgeons and if your client is diagnosed with any skin cancer, then it is highly recommended they consult next with a Mohs surgeon especially if the lesion is on their face, head or neck area. Mohs is the name of the surgeon who developed this method; it is microscopically controlled surgery. With Mohs, the dermatologist surgeon excises the tumor, and then immediately sends it to the lab, or looks at it themselves under the microscope to check that they have removed all of the tumor, leaving clear margins. Should it not be cleared, they go back in while you are still waiting under a local anesthetic and remove more tissue to examine it again until all the cancer margins are clear. Depending on where the tumor appeared on your body, you might then go directly to a plastic surgeon to fill, flap, or graft and close the wound. Some dermatologists are also trained to perform the close of the wound, but most often in Australia your client will need to have this done by a reputable plastic surgeon, especially if the tumor is on the face, head or neck areas. The plastic surgery is typically done under light to heavy sedation in a hospital or private surgery setting.

Recovery after surgery Typically your client will go home on the same day of the surgery, depending on the technique used, the surgeon and the hospital’s policy of release. Most of the healing will take place within the first 10 days and many clients will go back to work the next day. Specific instructions on post-surgery care for the wound will be given to your client by their surgeon and they will be well looked after. The full healing of the wound and scar can take time, up to one year in some cases, but daily postoperative management with new skin-coloured silicone tape and gels help to minimise scaring. n Deborah Mangum-Copelli, is Managing Director of Mind Wellness Pty. Ltd., a Psychotherapy, NLP, Guided Meditation, Coaching and Hypnotherapy Company. Deborah’s experience spans Hotel, Resort and Day Spa consultancy projects in Asia Pacific the U.S. and Europe. For more information contact deborah@mindwellness.com; www.mindwellness.com


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BYRON Break The beauty and wellness industry is booming in Byron Bay, but Azabu offers a unique twist on achieving the perfect Zen, writes Michelle Ruzzene.

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BEAUTY ESCAPE

THERE’S NO DENYING there’s a growing trend of wellness and spirituality being incorporated into salon and spa treatments. One stunning location that has embraced this trend is Azabu Retreat & Spa, which is one of Byron Bay’s most unique accommodation getaways. Situated on a lush, five-acre property, completely surrounded by greenery on the outskirts of Byron Bay, Azabu is a place to retreat, relax and recharge. Owner Terence-Liam Preece, who goes by the name of TP, said Azabu was not the home to hinterland hippies, which has often been the image associated with Byron Bay and its colourful characters looking to embrace a more alternative lifestyle. “Azabu is not just another place to stay in Byron,” TP said. “Azabu has been designed in an attempt to capture the authentic nature of living the life the locals love.” You won’t see a tie-dye top or rainbow-coloured cushion in sight- Azabu instead has a strong Japanese influence, with authentic kimonos adorning the walls alongside Japanese art, and a vase of cherry blossoms greeting guests in the reception area. “All our guests enter Azabu under the Torii, a traditional Japanese gate typically found as the entrance to Shinto temples,” TP explained. “Guests are urged to retreat from the daily tedium of technology in order to reconnect with their inner temple of tranquillity.” Contributing to the ambience is carefully selected music that TP, a university qualified master coach said, has been wellresearched to “have a deep effect on our emotions, acting as a subtle therapy for elevating positive energy” that quietly plays in reception.

“The natives love the mellow music that welcomes you to the serenity of Azabu’s reception setting, inducing a state of serenity to rinse the dust from a weary soul,” he said. Looking out the window you may also get a glimpse of one of the five tame peacocks that roam the property, displaying their beautiful feathers during mating season to those who walk by. The rooms continue to follow the Japanese theme - there are only five boutique, elevated suites on the property and in typical Japanese fashion, the rooms are smallish in size and come furnished with minimal décor. They feature shoji screen styled timber panelling, polished floorboards and large, floor-to-ceiling windows. French doors open out onto a private balcony with 360-degree views of lush native hoop pine forest. From the balcony, you can touch towering timbers of hooppines that have stood like silent sentinels for centuries. Some of the trees in the forest are up to 60 metres tall and are able to live for up to 450 years. “The architectural appeal of Azabu’s understated, Zen-like simplicity pares back unnecessary clutter to provide a room that is intimately cosy and comfortable,” TP said.

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ORGANIC SPA

TP said he encouraged all guests to put away their phones and really immerse themselves in the surrounding greenery. “We like our guests to indulge in some nature therapy, known in Japanese culture as Shinrin Yoku, or the meditative practice of ‘bathing in the forest’,” TP said. “Researchers have found that just 15 minutes of mindful attention to nature lowers blood pressure, reduces stress levels and improves mental clarity. “As Gibran wrote in his exquisite journal, ‘Let the grass kiss your feet’.” The property also features a yoga platform in the forest for guests to relax, meditate or just breathe. “We want to provide a place where complete restoration of health, hope and heart can be focused on,” TP said. The spa treatments at Azabu reflect this important connection with nature and earth that is heavily promoted at Azabu. “Those enjoying a therapeutic treatment at Azabu will get not so much a temporary indulgence but rather a holistic immersion into a world of natural beauty,” TP said.

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• Organic Spa is the only Australian certified organic professional skincare range. • They have been independently certified by Australian Certified Organic to be at least 95% organic, or between 70% and 94.99% organic, depending on the product (each product is labelled which one). • Their products are registered Vegan with the UK-based Vegan Society. • The range is made using certified organic extracts combined with 100% naturally derived ingredients. • They consider their environmental footprint with eco-friendly packaging that is not only recyclable, but in some cases, the components are biodegradable.


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BEAUTY ESCAPE

Guests are encouraged to arrive early for their treatment so they can make the most of the outdoor pool, sauna and heated spa facilities. They are then given a cup of Japanese tea to sip while listening to the ancient sounds of oriental flute music. On the menu are a number of treatments that include Therapeutic Deep Tissue Massage, Asahi Hot Stone Massage, Green Tea and Vitamin C Anti-Ageing Facial, Multi Detox Deep Cleanse Facial, Zen Body Polish, Reflexology Treatment and Spa Manicures and Pedicures. Byron Bay local and spa manager Kirsty Waldron, who has worked at Azabu for five years, said one of the most popular treatments was the two-hour Azabu Escape Package, which included a body buffing salt scrub, full body relaxation massage, mini facial and a hand and foot massage. Locally-made Organic Spa products are exclusively stocked and used for treatments. “We chose this brand for our spa due to the fact that the company is close, accessible, ethical, and most importantly, produce great products,” she said. Kirsty said a number beauty brands who were certifying themselves as organic in Australia were sometimes misleading consumers.

“Some beauty brands claiming to be organic are questionable,” Kirsty said. “But Organic Spa is food-grade certified organic – their products are amazing.” Kirsty said she loved being in the industry as she was a natural healer. “I love that I am able to make people feel good in a beautiful location and nurturing environment,” she said. Far from being another place to stay in Byron, Azabu is a relaxing sanctuary that encourages reflection and renewal through a deep connection to the majesty of nature, something we’ll seeing a lot more of in the future. n Contact Azabu on 02 6680 9102 or visit www.azabu.com.au.

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LAST WORD

AMY

JEAN

Arch angel to the stars including Naomi Campbell and Danni Minogue, Amy Jean owns five salons within Australia and has pop up salons in London, Milan and Paris. This celebrity brow specialist is known as the pioneer of the feather touch brow tattoo and has just launched her Amy Jean Privée Collection. We find out about her beauty icons and must haves.

Instagram @chloemorello

My beauty icon is my gorgeous client and YouTube sensation, Chloe Morello. She gets it right every time and she’s a wealth of knowledge with products and brands. Plus she radiates warmth and her heart glows as much as her skin!

My quick go to beauty fix is a salon blow dry! This is my weakness.

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If I wasn’t a business entrepreneur I’d be determined to become one.

The best beauty advice I can give is to become obsessed with your passion. Live it, breathe it and work yourself to the bone. Do as much research and training as possible to refine your craft. I’m online most nights researching treatments, developing my brow products and analysing permanent makeup tutorials around the globe. Remain curious and never become complacent!

My biggest beauty blunder is living through the 90’s “skinny brow”. I just cringe when I look back and it’s a fine example of why not to follow trends!

Amy Jean Brow Agency www.amyjean.com.au

Beauty to me is….Kindness.

I could never live without Rationale skincare products, my own Micro-Stroke Eyebrow Pencil and a Keratin Lash Elevate treatment. eratin Lash Elevate Kit ™ www.lashelevate.com.au

The lesson I learnt when I opened my Amy Jean Agency is that you connect with customers through genuine enthusiasm – they can smell it a mile off. If you’re not in the industry for the love of it, don’t expect to ever be busy.


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EVENTS

MAKEUP MAESTROS RECOGNISED More than 200 guests joined in the celebrations at the inaugural Australian Make Up Industry Awards (AMIA) at Madame Hedges, Cloudland, Brisbane. From the more than 110 award entries, which resulted in 42 finalists across 10 categories, winners were announced in 11 categories. These included Cassie Harris being awarded 2018 AMIA Make Up Artist of the Year and Lesley Vanderwalt taking home the AMIA Make Up Icon of the Year title. The event, which featured a sparkling indoor waterfall, wrapped up with lots of cocktails and dancing.

IT GIRLS MASTERCLASS IT Cosmetics held a makeup masterclass with director of artistry, Josie Houlihan, to celebrate the relaunch of the IT Cosmetics CC Cream. The afternoon event was held at L’Oréal in Sydney, following their purchase of the brand for $1.2 billion in 2016. Guest were treated to high tea and were colour matched to their ideal shade.

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MORNINGTON PENINSULA MAKEOVER Media were invited to the unveiling of Peninsula Hot Springs’s new amphitheatre area. The $13 million expansion includes nine new hot spring pools, amphitheatre and a stage for a variety of arts and entertainment experiences, as well as an ice cave and accompanying sauna that embraces the hot / cold therapy phenomenon.

SEPHORA SHOWCASE Sephora held their bi-annual exclusive brands showcase at The Venue Alexandria. Attendees sipped coffees and nibbled on pastries while wandering through the event, which introduced media to a variety of new skincare, makeup and haircare brands. With 15 stores now in Australia, Sephora is continuing to expand with its next store to open in Melbourne’s Doncaster in September.

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EVENTS

COSMIC CHRISTMAS A festive banquet was held at The Sydney Opera House for Charlotte Tilbury’s Cosmic Christmas Dinner. Guests feasted on a threecourse meal after wandering through the cosmic gift shop and having their photo taken at a star booth. Each guest was given some products to take home and were given the coordintates of their very own star named after them. Photos: Esteban La Tessa.

INIKA CONFERENCE Total Beauty Network (TBN) held their international Inika Organic conference in Melbourne at TBN headquarters. Almost 100 hundred people attended the conference, with off-site strategy sessions held at The Novotel. The conference was held at TBN HQ in Melbourne, with other strategy sessions off-site at and there were 90 conference attendees during the course of the week and a half.

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BOOMING BRISBANE BEAUTY EXPO Almost 7000 people traipsed through the Brisbane Convention & Exhibition Centre for the 4th annual Brisbane Hair and Beauty Expo. There were more than 80 exhibitors on show at the two-day event, with industry experts including Lorna Evans, Rae Morris, Papas + Pace, Richard Kavanagh, Brad Ngata, Gay Wardle, Charlotte Ravet, Jules Tognini, Faye Murray and Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson in attendance as part of its Extended Education Program. Some of the many brands to exhibit at the event included PONi Cosmetics, Pravana, Silk Oil of Morocco, Inglot, Excellent Edges, Young Nails, Professional Use, Comfortel Furniture, GlamPalm, iCandy Scissors Australia, Depot, Wahl, Dessata, Techno Tan, Crown Brush, plus many more. The 2019 Brisbane Hair and Beauty Expo will be held on Sunday July 28 and Monday July 29, 2019.

LUK-Y BREAKFAST A beauty breakfast was served to media and influencers to celebrate the collaboration between Luk Beauitfood and Healthy Life. The event was held at Healthy Life Bondi Junction with food inspired by the flavours of Lük’s Lip Nourish sheer lipstick range. Lük founder Cindy Luken and Healthy Life CMO Simon Cheng were both in attendance at the event.

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EVENTS

BEAUTY SHOWINGS Media were invited to Portobello PR’s stylish headquarters in Sydney’s Paddington for their winter beauty showings. Guests were talked through all of their new product launches one-on-one while sipping on lattes. Key brands showcased included Bondi Sands, Ecoya, OGX Haircare, Maui Moisture Haircare, Alya Skin, Ardell Lashes, Natralus skincare and more.

CHIN CHIN CHRISTMAS Media were invited to a sit down lunch to celebrate the launch of the 2018 Ecoya Christmas Collection. The event was held at ChiiTown, the private dining room of Chin Chin, in Surry Hills. The festive lunch featured Christmas trees with lots of wrapped presents underneath, which were handed out over the course of the lunch.

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LIPSTICK LUNCH Media and influencers celebrated the launch of Jane Iredale Triple Luxe Lipsticks over lunch. Guests feasted on a range of healthy gluten-free and dairy-free treats at The Clean Treats Factory in Alexandria while learning all about the new range.

MEDISPA SYMPOSIUM Medispa Solutions held their Medtech Symposium at the Sofitel Darling Harbour. Dr Gregoris Stavrou from Biotec Italy attended the jam-packed, two day affair to demonstrate the new Renova, a non-surgical face lift and body sculpting device. Guests frocked up at night for an awards gala dinner.

Hosted or attended a great beauty event? We’d love to hear from you. Please email your clear photos with a brief description of the event to be considered for inclusion in Professional Beauty to our beauty editor, Michelle Ruzzene, at mruzzene@intermedia.com.au.

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Integrate Mind Wellness into your Spa or Salon Through Guided Meditation and Hypnotic Metaphors to: ✓ De-Stress ✓ Build Confidence ✓ Quit Bad Habits ✓ Control Weight ✓ Dissipate Pain ✓ Eliminate Fears ✓ Become Focused ✓ Abandon Addiction

✓ Sleep Better ✓ Get Motivated ✓ Achieve Success ✓ Find Passion ✓ Improve Memory ✓ Socialize More ✓ Be Happy ✓ Manage Hormones

Arrange a Complimentary Consultation and Trial Session with Deborah Mangum-Copelli, BA,MA,DipPsychClinHyp,PracNLP M: 0425 263 477 E: deborah@mindwellness.com

Email: contact@roundaboutteam.com

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www.mindwellness.com Member: ISPA, AHA, ASCH


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AD INDEX

Advertiser index Advanced Cosmeceuticals. . . . . . Age Delay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha-H. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Artav Australia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BeautĂŠ Pacifique Australia. . . . . . BHA Media . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bio Sculpture Australia . . . . . . . . Biz Cover. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bonza Bronz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Box Hill Institute . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brandee Meier Photography . . . . Caronlab Australia . . . . . . . . . . . Comfortel Furniture. . . . . . . . . . . Cosmoprof Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . Curtis Collection. . . . . . . . . . . . . Cynosure. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dermacol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dermalogica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dermaviduals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DMK Australia & New Zealand. . Eckstein Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . Ex-Import Niche Products. . . . . . INSKIN COSMEDICS. . . . . . . . . Jax Wax Australia . . . . . . . . . . . .

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. . . 13 . . 139 . . . 72 69, 95 . . 103 . . 129 48, 49 . . 127 . . . 63 . . 109 . . 137 . . 6, 7 . . . 91 . . . 15 . . . 43 . . 113 . . 101 24, 25 33, 77 81, 136 . . . . 39 . . . 119 . . . . 11 . . . . 83

Jessica Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Kitomba. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Le Beauty & Nail Supplies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Lycon Cosmetics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Mancine Cosmetics. . . . . . . . . . . 87, outside back cover Margi Fox Distributors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 MARQ Brands. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57, 71, 123 Mind Wellness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 MoroccanTan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50-55 Naked Tan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Nelson Beauty Business Management. . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Nouveau Lashes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Payot Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2, 3 Pelactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Professional Beauty Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Roundabout Team. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Solaire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Sothys Paris. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4, 5 Switch Funky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 The Sales Catalyst. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 The Uniform Stylist. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Timely . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 True Solutions International. . . . . . . . front cover, 20, 21 Ultraderm. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99



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