Retail Beauty 69 Spring 2021 by The Intermedia Group

69 SPRING 2021

Interview Tony Rechtman

Owner and CEO at Total Beauty Network

Trend Report

IMMUNO-COSMETICS FOR THE NEW NORMAL

Fragrance Shakeup

WHY ORIENTAL IS OUT AND AMBER IS IN

Patriot Games Growing Power of Australian-Made

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*Auto-evaluation on 25 subjects – product applied twice daily for 3 months. **Evaluation of the skin’s capacitance with a single standardised application for 24h on 26 subjects. ***Registered patent™ of Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Beauty Sleep Essentials, page 80.

“Due to the pandemic, we now also reportedly have an epidemic of sleep deprivation, known as coronasomnia.”

Moving forward, together Welcome to our Spring issue of Retail Beauty. It’s that time of year when the days grow longer and it’s the perfect weather to have a barbecue, or take a walk in the park and socialise. But Spring looks vastly different to what many of us imagined. This year has again been a crazy rollercoaster of a ride thanks to Covid-19. Just weeks ago, life was almost back to normal. Retailers were not only open for business, but consumers were also purchasing – and spending up big. Retail sales were well up on pre-pandemic levels, fuelled by the fact that people were unable to travel overseas. Conferences and expos were back in the diary, and I had the good fortune of attending Naturally Good and the Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference (APP), as well as Afterpay Australian Fashion Week (AAFW). Everyone I spoke to was optimistic about containing the virus, and our ability as a nation to quash the coronavirus pandemic, particularly with our “gold standard” contact-tracing system. But as I write this piece, locked down with the number of infections rising, attempting to home school two small children, it’s clear the Delta variant upended all of our assumptions about coronavirus. The pressing issue is WHEN it will end? As we try to bravely stay positive and move forward, the virus has again highlighted our need to get vaccinated. I received my second Pfizer shot in July. We also should aim to maintain a healthy lifestyle, as best we can. Unsurprisingly, Google searches for ingredients with immunity claims have soared during the pandemic. Consumers are looking for increased peace of mind through preventative wellness products. Elisabeth King explores in depth how the pandemic has continued to fudge the line between beauty and wellness in her trend report, page 14. Elisabeth also talks to leading and upcoming Australian beauty, skincare, beauty and wellness brands for Talking Point, page 46, about the Covid-19 pandemic supercharging local consumers appetite for Australian-made products - that’s at least one silver lining that’s come out of this. Due to the pandemic, we now also reportedly have an epidemic 4| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

of sleep deprivation, known as ‘coronasomnia’. Since getting a good night’s slumber is easier said than done, we have rounded up our top Beauty Sleep Essentials, shot by photographer Brandee Meier, on page 80. Also in this issue we catch up with a number of powerful and successful female retail beauty gurus including; Erica Galea, Chemcorp Marketing Manager, who shares her secrets for managing a portfolio of 20 brands on page 78; Almira Armstrong, Lumira Founder and Creative Director, who talks about her extensive distribution journey around the world before landing her artisanal scents on the cosmetic floor at David Jones, page 82; and Ocea McKenzie, Education Manager for Mac & Bobbi Brown ANZ, who shares this season’s hottest trends on page 97. Our fragrance offering continues to expand, with insights from Clayton Iloahia, Fragrances of the World Communication and Evaluation Consultant, who talks about the importance of changing the ‘outdated’ term Oriental to Amber on page 68. As stay at home rules continue to apply to those in Greater Sydney, which includes myself and publisher Nicci Herrera, until at least the end of August, please stay in touch or drop us a line via one of our social media channels listed next to my signature. And don’t forget to subscribe to our free weekly newsletter or subscribe to our quarterly print magazine, both which can be done via our website.

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issue

Contents Subscribe to Retail Beauty online newsletter for insights, competitions, sales tips and more. www.RETAILBEAUTY.com.au

As Australia’s leading supplier of health supplements and superfood products for over 30 years, ANC is proud to support Australians’ well-being, every day. ANC’s collection of Australian-made vitamins and supplements boasts high quality in the supplement world so you can be sure that when you buy from ANC you will be receiving products from an experienced and dedicated health supplement provider in the industry. ANC was founded in Australia back in 1989 in sunny Byron Bay and have a goal of helping not only Australians, but people around the world Live Well. Every Day with their high quality supplements and superfoods.

RETAILBEAUTYMAGAZINE

@RETAIL_BEAUTY_

Previous issues

Editor’s Letter

66 Fragrance News – Ainslie Walker

Contents

Contributors

68 F ragrance Trends – Clayton Iloahia

10 Cover Story – ANC 14

Contact details RETAIL BEAUTY Founder, Commercial & Creative Consultant Andrea Ferrari M: +61 (0)410 067 966 E: aferrari@intermedia.com.au Publisher and Commercial Director Nicci Herrera M: +61 (0)426 826 977 E: nherrera@intermedia.com.au Editor Michelle Ruzzene M: +61 (0)402 277 286 E: mruzzene@intermedia.com.au Art Director Leanne Hogbin E: leanne@intermedia.com.au Mailing Address RETAIL BEAUTY P.O. Box 55, Glebe, NSW 2037 Australia Subscription Rates $132.00 per annum (Aus) $167.70 per annum (NZ) $205.20 per annum (Int) All rates are inclusive and AUS$. Articles that appear in Retail Beauty may not be reproduced without permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in Retail Beauty are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published by Percolate Media Pty Ltd – a division of Intermedia Group 41 Bridge Rd, Glebe NSW 2037 P: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 4419 ACN: 629 613 583

rend – Immuno-cosmetics: The T 360 Degree Feel Good Factor

22 I nterview – Tony Rechtman, Total Beauty Network Founder 24 P antone’s NewTopia Autumn/ Winter 22/23 Fashion Forecasts – Andrea Ferrari 30 Industry News 40 Online Shopping News 46 T alking Point – The Growing Power of Australian-Made 54 Pharmacy News 58 Beauty Shoot – Body Essentials 60 AAFW Best Beauty Looks 62 5 Minutes with… Pantene Brand Ambassador Christian Wilkins 64 A Place for Truth – Olivia Ferrari 65 G ender Neutral – Unisex Fragrances

70 A n Old Trend Re-emerging: Sandalwood is Back 72 Out and About 78 M y Journey: Erica Galea, Chemcorp Marketing Manager 80 Beauty Shoot – Sleep Essentials 82 A ussie Made – Almira Armstrong, Lumira Founder and Creative Director 84 Buyers Lists – David Jones 88 B eauty Spring Clean – Michael Brown 90 A Content Creator’s Confession – Icy Ling 92 Brand News 96 B eauty & the Best – Spring Makeup Trends 97 H ave You Met… Ocea McKenzie, Education Manager for Mac & Bobbi Brown ANZ 98 Brand Index

Environmental statement: The Intermedia Group takes its Corporate and Social Responsibilities seriously and is committed to reducing its impact on the environment. We continuously strive to improve our environmental performance and to initiate additional CSR based projects and activities. As part of our company policy we ensure that the products and services used in the manufacture of this magazine are sourced from environmentally responsible suppliers. This magazine has been printed on paper produced from sustainably sourced wood and pulp fibre and is accredited under PEFC chain of custody. PEFC certified wood and paper products come from environmentally appropriate, socially beneficial and economically viable management of forests. The wrapping used in the delivery process of this magazine is 100% biodegradable.

TOP TIPS FOR ON TREND LASHES & BROWS Brows are shaped but not structured and softly brushed up for a fluffy look. Lashes are shiny so eyes pop. GET THE LOOK – BROWS Tint brows using 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye Kit. Choose a shade closest to your brow colour. Add fluffiness with 1000HOUR Instant Brow gently applied against the direction of lash growth using short, upward strokes. GET THE LOOK – LASHES Tint lashes using 1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dye Kit in the shade Natural Black.

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Contributors

Olivia is an English-born medium, masseuse and yoga teacher. Olivia has a customised approach to each individual client’s mind and body wellness derived from learnings she has gained from her studies and experience in Cambodia, India, Byron Bay and Sydney.

Founder

Commercial & Creative Consultant ANDREA FERRARI

One of her proudest professional moments was winning Beauty Directory’s first-ever Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism in 2011 peer-voted recognition. Andrea founded Retail Beauty, formerly known as esprit Magazine Australia, in 2004 coming from a heritage of founding the original Esprit in the UK in 1987. Armed with a diploma in Fashion Journalism from the London College of Fashion, Andrea completed her journalism training on the job at IPC Business Press on the leading weekly trade magazine, Hairdressers Journal. In the late 70s, London’s print and fashion industries were both hotbeds of creativity and Andrea cut her teeth as a writer and interviewer in the company of accomplished mentors. Becoming editor of Beauty Counter, the UK pharmacy trade journal, she learned the power of the pharmacy assistant in the customer-to-purchase relationship. In 1987 Andrea fulfilled a gap in the UK market for a trade magazine for the retail beauty industry. Emigrating to Australia in 2003, she created esprit for the Australian market.

OLIVIA FERRARI

Associate Editor

Business Features

ELISABETH KING Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the bestselling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty. In May 2003, she was the inaugural Australian winner of the Jasmine Award 2003, an international award for excellence in fragrance journalism. As the grooming editor of Men’s Style she won a second Jasmine award for the magazine in 2010.

CLAYTON ILOLAHIA Clayton works in communication and evaluation for Fragrances of the World where he assists industry guru Michael Edwards with the collection and evaluation of fragrance data from around the world. He is responsible for the communication of data insights and trends from the company’s award-winning database. Clayton has over 10 years’ experience in fragrance journalism, learning and development and luxury retail. He has completed numerous summer schools at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery and has a passion for creative perfumery.

ICY LING Ni Hao (‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as @icybutterfly to my 50,000 instagram followers. I founded IC&Co in 2020 to promote communication and cultural dissemination between Australia and Chinese at home and abroad, and provide a wider promotion for international and Australian brands.

ACCORD AUSTRALASIA LIMITED Accord is the national industry association for the Australasian hygiene, cosmetic and specialty products industry representing the full range of products from luxury cosmetics and fragrances to industrial specialties. In keeping with the strong scientific basis of this industry, Accord also adopts a principled, evidence-based approach to policy inputs and representation with governments. 8| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

AINSLIE WALKER Ainslie has worked with brands such as Selfridges, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, The Refinery and Gentlemen’s Tonic in the UK. In April 2014, she was recognised in Australia for her contribution to Fragrance Journalism, receiving a Jasmine Award for Best Blog 2014. Ainslie is available for spa, fragrance and retail consultancy, product development and fragrance journalism. www.ainsliewalker.com

MICHAEL BROWN Growing up as a dancer , Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of makeup artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra as well as Marc Jacobs Beauty Ambassador.

BRANDEE MEIER Brandee began her photography career straight out of high school and has been shooting beauty products and fashion flatlays fore more than 20 years. Brandee has worked for a variety of brands on their advertising and product shoots including editorial work with Napoleon Perdis and Jane Iredale, is an expert at portraits and model shots, and has dabbled in numerous step-by-step make–up application shoots. www.brandeemeier.com.au

BATH & BODY BLISS Celebrate the ritual of bathtime relaxation and calm body, mind and senses with spa-inspired essentials for everyday.

bathefex.com.au

Future of Wellbeing

Australian NaturalCare Refreshes Brand for Continued Expansion by Elisabeth King Wellness and beauty were tightly interlocked before the Covid-19 pandemic, but the global health crisis has magnified and accelerated the boom in sales of supplements and ingestibles. The beauty-from-within category is now one of the fastest-growing categories, driven by collagen powders and tablets, mineral-rich Mark Mackenzie, Jerome Fu, Global General Manager of Marketing and supplements, probiotics, prebiotics and gut Australian NaturalCare. e-Commerce health solutions. Retailers at all price points Manager for Australian NaturalCare. from department stores through e-commerce giants, pharmacies and lifestyle chains have doubled down on the opportunity to target the multi-billion dollar global market. Increased customer knowledge and recognition of the close relationship between supplements and topical skincare has fast-tracked the trend worldwide, as consumers look to ingredients such as collagen to add smoothness and elasticity to the skin, biotin for stronger nails and natural sleep aids to maintain a more youthful appearance. The global market for nearly every sub-category of ingestibles and beauty supplements is immense and is still a long way from reaching its peak. Grand View Research predicts that the worldwide nutraceutical market will hit US$722.49 billion by 2027 and demand for medical and ingestible collagen is on track to reach US$22.6 billion over the next five years. The marine collagen sector is expected to grow at a faster rate - 7 per cent - than the overall market, reveals the researcher. 30 YEARS OF HIGH QUALITY POTENCY / TRUSTED SOURCE

With so many new brands and competitors, in Australia and overseas, eager to grab a share of the well-being bonanza, consumers need to know that their choices offer value for money, more positive benefits and come from a trusted source. Australian NaturalCare (ANC) is Australia’s leading direct supplier of vitamins online and we have a strong reputation for high quality natural potency built up over more than 30 years, says Mark Mackenzie, General Manager of Australian NaturalCare. We began as a small startup in Byron Bay, the wellness capital of Australia, in 1989, producing diet quality supplements, he adds. “Our entrepreneurial founder, Barry Schadel, was a leading pioneer in promoting the concept that great supplements are the key to optimal health. Our first products included ginseng, royal jelly and fish oils and we gained a significant following through our direct-to-consumer model. Because we have attracted such a dedicated following through continued product innovation and taking care of our customers we have a large core of long-term and regular purchasers.” SERVICE SECOND TO NONE / 100% MADE IN AUSTRALIA

Personalisation has become one of the hottest buzzwords in health and beauty but ANC was an early adopter of the trend. Our slogan is ‘Live Well. Every Day’ and we have long approached consumers on an individual basis, says Mackenzie. “Our customer service is second to none. We have a team of professional naturopaths, who offer one-on-one advice. Many have been with us for 10, 15 or 20 years and know many customers by name. Because of these close relationships 10| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

COVER STORY

with our customers, who are among the most well-informed and educated in Australia, we can not only fulfill their needs better but also use the constant feedback to innovate our product range and keep ahead of trends.” An increasing number of Australians were already seeking out Made in Australia products before the Covid-19 pandemic, but the crisis has super-charged demand. Our R&D team scours the world for new studies, high quality evidence and clinical trials to facilitate new product development, says Mackenzie. “But we are proud to be one of the very few supplement companies that continues to manufacture 100 per cent of our range of vitamins, supplements and natural living products in Australia. Not only does our Made in Australia strategy guarantee that our products are of the highest quality, it also supports local manufacturing and creates more jobs. All of our supplements and vitamins are TGAapproved and adhere to the Australian Code of Good Manufacturing Practice.” ANC’s focus on the highest level of nutritional potency has attracted hundreds of thousands of regular customers, but the company’s potential to attract new customers has been spring-boarded by a brand re-fresh. Younger customers, in particular, value transparency and ANC’s sustainability efforts include following Friend of the Sea guidelines for the eco-labelling of its fish products. SIGNIFICANT OPPORTUNITIES FOR COLLAGEN / BEST IN MARKETPLACE

Even though the global collagen market is already a multi-billion dollar business, the sector is poised to grow at 8 per cent per year to 2024, reports Frost & Sullivan. Market penetration remains lower than more mature health ingredients such as probiotics and omega-3 in leading markets such as the US, Europe and the Asia/Pacific region. According to the leading US business consulting firm, this means significant opportunities remain for manufacturers, retailers and investors. Earlier this year, ANC debuted new products and packaging together with the international launch of its Marine Collagen Plus Mineral and Marine Collagen Ultra range. “We worked hard for well over a year on the new collagen products, which are scientifically proven to improve skin elasticity, strengthen the nails and increase hair growth,” says Mackenzie. “Our new supplements are free from gluten, added sugar, dairy, preservatives and artificial colours. A major point of difference is that they are formulated with a minimum of three grams of hydrolysed Type 1 marine collagen. Type 1 collagen is the most abundant type found in the skin and helps to increase skin elasticity by up to 15 per cent after four weeks of use. Available in original, citrus lime, and cranberry flavours, we believe our new collagen products are the best in the marketplace and we are taking this message to the world.” OVERSEAS FOCUS / NEW ROADMAP FOR LOCAL UPLIFT

The three major markets driving the global supplements market are the US, Japan and China. Natural products backed by strong scientific evidence are crucial to success in the Chinese and Asian health and beauty sector. According to Alibaba’s Tmall, sales of ingestibles and beauty supplements doubled from 2017 to 2019 and continue to grow strongly says the Chinese online giant. We have targeted the Chinese market since 2018, says Mackenzie. “We have a Tmall store and are also present on JD.com, Xiaohongshu (Litte Red Book) and Pinduoduo. We are also targeting fast-growing markets in Southeast Asia such as Vietnam and are interested in the pharmacy sector in Australia and overseas.” Both Mackenzie and Jerome Fu, Global Marketing and E-Commerce Manager for Australian NaturalCare, have extensive experience in FMCG to guide further growth. Prior to joining ANC in late 2020, Mackenzie held senior management roles at Melrose Health, Lion, Goodman Fielder and Unilever and has in-depth knowledge of key Asian markets, notably China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau. Fu was the General Manager of Lotus, a major hypermarket chain in China with more than 100 stores across the country. He has also worked for leading Fortune 500 companies, including Procter & Gamble and Nestlé. But the Australian domestic market remains top-of-mind, says Fu. “We were very proud to be nominated as a finalist in the 2021 Australian Service Excellence Awards. We have also refreshed, launched and streamlined other SKUs this year, including Marine Collagen Chews, Healthy Greens Powder, Healthy Gut Powder and Healthy Reds, a vital combination of superfoods. Sleep and stress have become a major focus for consumers during the pandemic and our solutions included A Good Night’s Sleep, featuring California poppy, Peaceful Sleep and Everyday Stress Relief B Complex”. In today’s competitive market, consumers perception of how a brand and its products contribute to their well-being not only maximises sales but also shows that it continues to evolve. After 30 years, Australian NaturalCare is even more vital in the lives of wellness-focused customers of all ages. www.a-n-c.com RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |11

SPONSORED

dipeptides that are clinically proven in wound healing, increasing skin hydration and elasticity. Its unique resistance to breakdown in the stomach means the dipeptides are readily absorbed and studies have shown it to be 3-5 times more bioactive than standard collagen. Building upon its experience in triple-fermentation technology that extracts the best of whole foods, FERMIO turned its attention to other extraction processes. The team soon set out to harness and concentrate the benefits of medicinal plants and healing herbs. It can be hard to know which herbs or mixtures are best suited to each person’s needs in a particular season or stage of life – after all, an ancient healing tradition has thousands of formulas – but that’s where FERMIO’s modern expertise comes in. By developing a unique algorithm based on time-honoured extraction techniques, FERMIO has packed 12 herbs and 3 botanical actives into a 35mL shot which amplifies wellbeing and vitality, especially in the transitional months where immunity is front of mind. Following traditional Chinese Medicine principles, FERMIO’s Immunity+ Complex tonic harmonise and nurture the connection between the circulatory system, stress response, and inflammation for respiratory resilience and overall immunity.

management who share Ai-Lien’s convictions that small changes can make a big impact and that wellness can be super simple. This means, while the team’s approach to wellness is scientifically based, rigorously tested, and meticulously manufactured, the final products are simple, fuss-free and fit into any lifestyle with ease. With years of collective insight into different aspects of food and pharmaceutical industries, FERMIO decided to use fermentation as the foundation of its product development. Fermented foods have been proven over many years to be extremely beneficial to our gut microbiome. FERMIO refined the common fermentation process into a precise technology that allows them to triple ferment various whole foods in one go. By harnessing microbial cultures, FERMIO’s proprietary triple fermentation technology extracts the best of nature and concentrates them for easy absorption and digestive health. The result? FERMIO’s first product - the Nutritional Cleanse. It is formulated to gently cleanse and nourish gut health with 88 different triple-fermented whole foods in one easy shot. Some people choose to make the cleanse part of their regular digestive wellness routine. Or add it whenever they have over-indulged, want to give the digestive system a rest, or just need an energy boost. FERMIO believes it’s easier to meet long-term health goals if you can implement them in short, simple, steps. After successfully marketing the Nutritional Cleanse for two years online and through collaborations with fitness coaches, healthcare professionals and via the export market, FERMIO embarked on a product development program to offer even more innovative wellness solutions that are functional and fuss-free. FERMIO’s premium Marine Collagen + Clarity is a multitasking formula that simultaneously supports skin health, mental focus and digestive wellness in a convenient once-daily sachet. Sticking true to their core values of utilising science to create simplicity, FERMIO scoured the globe for the best the world had to offer in marine peptide processing technology. FERMIO is the first Australian company to use patented collagen

FERMIO’s products rely on innovative methods, triplefermentation technology, and extracting the maximum nutritional value from what nature has to offer into fuss-free, delicious wellness solutions that are a pleasure to incorporate into the daily routine. It’s part of FERMIO’s overall commitment to proactive wellness, which isn’t just a person without nutritional deficiencies but an empowered individual that is healthy and happy in every aspect of their lives. FERMIO’s advice for better health is simple. Focus on adding good things, which is often easier to initiate. Take small steps with simple regimens that can be maintained. Look for products that work with your lifestyle, not products that try to dictate it. Discover more at www.fermio.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |29

INDUSTRY NEWS NICOLE KIDMAN SPRUIKS NEW ANTI-AGEING RANGE

Nicole Kidman’s selling power is undisputed. In 2012, she revived the fortunes of Chanel No 5 in a campaign directed by fellow Aussie, Baz Luhrmann. Young women all over the world started asking for the “new” fragrance from Chanel and the iconic fragrance acquired an army of youthful fans. The Oscar-winning actress has also lent her star billing to Neutrogena. Late last year, Kidman signed on as the first strategic business partner and global ambassador for US-based Sera Labs, a pioneer of CBD (cannabidol) skincare, which is a subsidiary of CURE Pharmaceutical Holdings. The connection is personal, too. Kidman suffered an ankle injury last year and used a CBD cream to soothe the inflammation. Sera Labs was founded in 2018 and is a global leader in the health, wellness and beauty sectors, primarily in the use of CBD-based formulas and advanced delivery systems.

Kidman fronts the brand’s nine SKU lineup of Advanced Anti-Aging Formula with CBD products. But is now the face of a new campaign for the brand’s recently launched clean beauty range - Sera Labs Revolution - a non-CBD lineup of 11 products, including Loving Hands Essential Oil, Indulgence Brown Sugar Scrub, Harmony Face & Neck Toner and Gleaming, a brightening serum. Reasonable prices are a hallmark of Sera Labs - from US$12.95 to US$60. The new plant-based anti-ageing products incorporates P3P complex developed by CURE Pharmaceuticals, which has a deeply penetrating tripeptide delivery system. Sera Labs is not available in Australia yet, but go to www. seratopicalskin.com for more information. CURE has partnerships in the US, China, Mexico, Canada, Israel and major European markets. With Kidman’s popularity on her home turf, a rollout could be on the way.

UNILEVER TO ACQUIRE PAULA’S CHOICE

Paula Begoun shot to fame in the 1990s as “The Cosmetics Cop” and made several trips to Australia to boost her cred as the critic who reviewed beauty products without fear or favour. The American businesswoman, talk show host and author of the best-selling books - “Don’t Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me” and “The Beauty Bible” - founded her own brand, Paula’s Choice, in 1995. Its main point-of-difference was that products centered on proven ingredients - 4000 in all - subject to peer reviewed research. In 2016, Paula’s Choice was sold to TA Associates, a major US private equity firm, when annual revenues totaled about US$70 million. The brand is mainly sold direct to consumers, but is also retailed through the Nordstrom department store chain and Sephora in the US. Close to 50 per cent of Paula’s Choice business comes from international markets and net sales are expected to reach US$300 million by the end of the year. Unilever has acquired Paula’s Choice in a deal rumoured to be worth close to US$2 billion. The brand will be part of the multinational’s prestige division, alongside Murad, Dermalogica, Kate Sommerville, REN and Tatcha, another direct-selling brand acquired in 2019. Unilever plans to enlarge its footprint in the direct-to-consumer market and boost Paula’s Choice global audience. The deal is expected to close in the third quarter. Developing Unilever’s portfolio in the high-growth premium skincare segment is one of our strategic priorities and I am excited that Paula’s Choice is joining us on this journey, noted Sunny Jain, Unilever Beauty and Personal Care president.

30| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

INDUSTRY NEWS

CHINA’S TOP 10 BEAUTY INFLUENCERS

When Kim Kardashian West made her first promotional appearance for Alibaba’s Singles’ Day in 2019, she had to team with the top Chinese influencer Viya for a livestream. China’s censorship of the Internet and social media meant that KKW couldn’t rely on her own followers and needed to be seen with a familiar local face to gain entree to the Chinese beauty market. Major beauty multinationals such as L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Chanel, Clarins and LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, have all successfully partnered with China’s top beauty influencers to ramp up sales. China is the world’s second largest beauty market after the US and it pays for any company with aspirations to launching into the Chinese beauty scene to know the names of the top “movers” of products. Launchmetrics, the New York-based data and technology company with a focus on the fashion, luxury and beauty markets,

has compiled a list of the top 10 beauty influencers in China. 1) Li Jiaqi (Lipstick King) 2) Babe (Doudou Babe) 3) Ximen 4) Late Night Teacher Xu

5) Cherie 6) Viya 7) MK Liangliang 8) Ryan (Mao Xiaoxing Ryan) 9) Miao Ye-Wu Miao 10) Brother Berry

NIVEA MAKER TEAMS WITH TMALL TO CO-INCUBATE CHINESE BEAUTY STARTUPS

China is on track to overtake the US as the world’s largest single beauty market by 2023, reports Launchmetrics, the US tech and data leader. The US beauty market is currently worth US$56 billion a year, by contrast to China at US$38.6 billion. With such rapid growth as a huge corporate incentive, Beiersdorf, the parent company of Nivea, La Prairie and Eucerin, has partnered with Alibaba’s Tmall to co-incubate Chinese beauty startups. Tmall and Givaudan, the world’s largest fragrance and flavours manufacturer, signed an agreement to fast-track fragrance creation in China. Dubbed the T-Lab Source, the aim of the initiative is to slash fragrance development times from the usual 40 weeks to only 4 weeks. Two years ago, NX Nivea launched in South Korea as Beiersdorf ’s inaugural global beauty accelerator. Our goal is to become the leading beauty accelerator in Asia by 2022, says Zhengrong Liu, an executive board member of Beiersdorf for Greater China and Northeast Asia. “By teaming up with local innovators, we accelerate the process to identify and develop visionary beauty concepts, unlock growth potentials and win with skincare in line with Beiersdorf ’s business strategy C.A.R.E+”. Beiersdorf ’s stable of global best-selling brands - Nivea, La Prairie and Eucerin - are already available on Tmall. The multinational also recently opened an Innovation Centre in Shanghai, its second largest in the world after its home base in Hamburg. Going forward, the facility will play a major role in supporting the indie brands chosen for the joint accelerator program with Tmall. Following a tough appraisal of more than 100 brands, the first five brands to make the cut are: 1) Lake Lab - a personalised beauty brand linked to the skincare platform - “You Look Good Today”. 2) Basic Lab - a minimalist skincare brand whose products contain fewer than 12 ingredients. 3) 2XY - a naturally-based, gender-neutral skincare brand. 4) Turflan - a science-based skincare brand based on high potency ingredients. 5) Moja - a healthy and anti-inflammatory skincare brand incorporating high efficacy actives.

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |31

INDUSTRY NEWS

L’ORÉAL AUSTRALIA JOINS INFLUENCER MARKETING COUNCIL

As the world’s and Australia’s largest beauty company, L’Oréal has been at the forefront of establishing its own global influencer ethics and is a pioneer in the use of influencer partnerships. From the get-go, influencer marketing has attracted controversy and continues to do so. Key issues have always been and remain transparency and best practice. AiMCO, the Australian Influencer Marketing Council, was founded in September 2019. Regarded as the leading source of industry knowledge, campaign management and trends, the alliance of more than 40 social media agencies, talent agencies, content creators and influencer marketing tech debuted its Influencer Marketing Code of Practice in July 2020. Following input from more than 50 companies across several industries, the code includes influencer vetting and selection, advertising disclosure and contractual considerations such as content rights usage and metrics reporting. L’Oréal Australia has become the first beauty company to join AiMCO and the multinational has nominated two representatives - Emma Williamson, director of consumer experience, and Jenna Adamson, the company’s corporate legal counsel. Influencer marketing is here to stay, says Williamson. “We recognise it as a critical lever in how to engage new audiences, reconnect with our existing consumers and tap into forms of content that drives consumer trial and purchase.” As an ever-present component of our media mix, it’s crucial that we get influencer marketing right, she adds. “Consumers are savvy and if we want them to trust our brands, we need to ensure that the influencers we work with share our values and are authentic and transparent.”

32| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

DOUBLE DIGIT GROWTH FOR ELIZABETH ARDEN BOOSTS REVLON’S FORTUNES IN Q1

Colour cosmetics have taken a big hit during the Covid-19 pandemic, especially lip products. But boosted by Elizabeth Arden and its fragrance portfolio, Revlon has turned a corner on the road to recovery. The US-based multinational has reported net global sales of US$445 million in Q1 2021 - a 1.8 per cent overall revenue decline by contrast to the same period last year. Yet as makeup sales from the Revlon and Almay brands down 11 per cent to US$162 million - continued to feel the impact of lockdowns in major markets and the widespread use of face masks worldwide, two of the company’s prestige divisions boosted the bottom line. Elizabeth Arden posted a net sales increase of 18 per cent over the first quarter to US$112 million. Standout performers included the brand’s ceramide franchise, Visible Brightening CicaGlow Concentrate and the Green Tea fragrance collection, notably in the US and Asia. Revlon’s fragrance division picked up steam with the overall increase in perfume sales triggered by St Valentine’s Day. The high-performing stable, led by celebrity scents from Brittany Spears, Christina Aguilera and Elizabeth Taylor and designer juices from John Varvatos and Juicy Couture, enjoyed a sales surge of 13 per cent to US$74.8 million. Going forward, the company has unveiled the new Revlon Global Growth Accelerator Program (RGGA), designed to stimulate long-term sustainable growth in both margins and revenues. As markets around the world continue to re-open and Covid-19 restrictions loosen, we are optimistic about the rebound of the mass channel, and particularly the colour cosmetics category, noted Debra Perelman, president and CEO of Revlon. “Our businesses in the prestige channel, including Elizabeth Arden and fragrances, experienced doubledigit net sales growth in the first quarter, recovering more quickly than our businesses in the mass channel related to colour cosmetics.”

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INDUSTRY NEWS AESOP EXECUTIVES TO HELM NATURA’S NEW VENTURE CAPITAL FUND AND THE BODY SHOP COMMITS TO 100% VEGAN STRATEGY

Founding a beauty company in the hope that a multinational will buy it is a well-worn path in the cosmetics industry. Unilever, The Estee Lauder Companies and Procter & Gamble have long had investment divisions. Natura & Co, the Brazilian giant has leveraged itself into the fourth largest pure-play beauty company in the world with the acquisitions of The Body Shop, Avon International and Australia’s Aesop. To continue this growth strategy, the multinational has launched Fable Investments, a dedicated corporate investment arm. Thomas Buisson, the former general manager of Aesop in Europe, and Michael O’Keefe, the Melbourne-based CEO of Aesop, will helm Fable Investments. Natura plans to harness Aesop’s considerable expertise in growing a brand without losing the “magic” that inspired its founding principles.

The division’s initial strategy is to target 10 to 15 high growth and innovative small brands for minority investments. Depending on individual agreements, investment amounts will vary from several hundred thousand dollars to US$10 million. Perfumer H, the fragrance brand launched by Lyn Harris, a former Robertet perfumer, has scored the first investment from Fable. Harris also founded Miller Harris, the London-based couture fragrance house in the 1990s. Natura has also announced that The Body Shop’s products will be 100 per cent vegan-certified by 2023. The company first began campaigning against animal testing in 1989 and 60 per cent of its current ranges are already vegan. The Body Shop also pioneered refills in the 1970s. The company will roll out refill stations in 500 locations worldwide by the end of the year, including Australian stores. The company’s Return, Recycle and Repeat program, inaugurated in 1993 and revived in 2019, will also be extended to 800 stores in 14 markets over the next six months.

PROPERTY INVESTMENT MAJORS BUY CONTROLLING STAKE IN MYER MELBOURNE FOR $270.4 MILLION

Myer Melbourne in Bourke Street Mall is one of the world’s most tightly held retail properties. The landmark building’s beauty department is viewed as a major tourist and consumer destination in its own right, encompassing all the major names. Charter Hall and the Abacus Property Group have acquired a majority stake of 66 per cent - a third each - in the iconic store for AUD$270.4 million. The acquisition is the biggest CBD retail deal nationwide in 2021 to date and the largest Melbourne CBD transaction in more than 13 years. Charter Hall has major retail investments and its portfolio includes Campbelltown Mall, Pacific Shopping Square in Maroubra and Secret Harbour Square in WA. The Abacus Property Group mainly invests in office buildings, including 99 Walker Street in North Sydney, Westpac House in Adelaide and 33 Queen Street in Brisbane. Myer Melbourne is 100 per cent leased to Myer Holdings and offers more than nine levels of retail spanning 40,000 square

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metres. The remaining 33 per cent ownership has been retained by property manager Vicinity Centres. The deal closed at the end of July. According to Lachlan MacGillivray, Head of Retail Investment for Colliers International who co-brokered the sale, Myer Melbourne represented one of the best CBD retail offerings in Australian history as the strongest single performing department store in Australia.

The overwhelming majority (97%) of Australian consumers who shifted to shopping locally during the pandemic, are seeking to maintain this behaviour, according to a new study by customer engagement software provider, Freshworks. Further, more than three quarters (78%) of respondents will continue to spend money they normally wouldn’t to support workers and struggling businesses. Mirroring how Australians felt smaller businesses responded to the pandemic, 44% believe small businesses got better at customer service compared to 13% saying worse and 43% saying no change, as they tried to offer more personal service and the option of delivery services. Despite the shift towards ecommerce, Australians may never go completely “allin” with online shopping. Although 43% will now continue to interact with brands digitally, compared to the global average of 48%, less than one-third (32%) of Australians moved to shopping online during the pandemic. Instead, Australians want to return to shopping in person, so they can see products in real-life (38%) and maintain human connections (33%). Freshworks Australia general manager, Sreelesh Pillai said Australians have always sought to support local, however, the pandemic has further entrenched this behaviour. “This stands alongside an ‘all in this together’ attitude, where we’re seeing consumers support businesses that have perhaps

KKR BUYS US$625 MILLION STAKE IN VINI COSMETICS TO TARGET INDIAN BEAUTY MARKET

KKR, the US global investment and private equity firm, is best known to Australians for its AUD$3.2 billion acquisition of iconic biscuit company, Arnott’s, in 2019. Two years earlier the multinational bought Laser Clinics Australia for AUD$650 million. But it’s biggest beauty buy in recent years was the acquisition of a 60 per cent controlling interest in Coty’s professional brands division, including Wella, Clairol, OPI and ghd, in May last year for US$4.3 billion. KKR is now extending its beauty empire to India by acquiring a 54 per cent majority stake in Vini Cosmetics, the Indian personal care and beauty company, for US$625 million. Vini was founded in 2010 and makes, markets and distributes deodorants, cosmetics and toiletries through its

INDUSTRY NEWS

SUPPORT FOR LOCAL SMALL BUSINESS IS HERE TO STAY

struggled in the past 12 months. As expected, online shopping has become more popular but not to the extent that we’ve witnessed in other markets. Again, this highlights the Australian preference for supporting smaller, local retailers. “For retailers looking to win the hearts and minds of Australian consumers, the message is simple: offer an experience that is personalised and meets their needs while treating your own staff well. Australians want to do business with brands that support the local community and are inherently seen as decent.”

signature brands, including FOGG, OSSUM and GlamUp. One of India’s largest personal care distributors, Vini has more than 700,000 points of sale and 3000 dealers. KKR has invested US$5.7 billion in Indian companies over the past 15 years and has a strong track record in leveraging their international expansion, e-commerce expertise and product R&D. As the world’s second most populous country after China, India has long been viewed as the next cosmetics giant. With a growth rate of 25.1 per cent a year, the Indian beauty and personal care market is expected to reach US$23 billion by the end of 2022. With a centuries-old Ayurvedic tradition, Indian consumers have a strong preference for natural and clean beauty products. While the glamour of Bollywood is a strong springboard for colour cosmetics sales. RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |35

INDUSTRY NEWS INNISFREE CLOSES NORTH AMERICAN STORES

Launched in 2002 as the first eco-friendly brand from AmorePacific, South Korea’s biggest cosmetics company, Innisfree enjoyed spectacular growth until recently. Billed as Korea’s number one skincare brand, Innisfree initially expanded rapidly across Asia from 2012 to 2016, notably in China. Western markets were next on the hit list and the brand entered the US in 2017, followed by Australia in 2018 and Canada in 2019. Innisfree currently has 12 stores in Australia - six in NSW, five in Victoria and one in Queensland and has an exclusive partnership with leading e-tailer, Adore Beauty. But AmorePacific says that the brand has been heavily affected by the growth of e-commerce over the past four years. The Chinese market has also faltered. Following its debut in China in 2012, Innisfree’s network expanded to 600 stores. Last year, AmorePacific closed 140 stores and is on track to shutter 170 more by the end of this year. In a foretaste of things to come in the North American market, Innisfree entered Sephora in the US in September 2019, claiming that the agreement was its first global distribution partnership with another beauty retailer. AmorePacific will complete the closure of its Innisfree standalone stores in the US and Canada this week, but will continue selling the brand’s products through Sephora in the region. E-commerce will become a major focus in the future, instead of Innisfree’s previous bricksand-mortar expansion strategy. AmorePacific’s global e-commerce division also has agreements with Amazon and Shopee and the multinational plans to increase its overall sales in China from 40 per cent to 50 per cent and boost its business in Europe. 36| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

CONSUMER PREFERENCES AMONG AUSTRALIA’S TOP 10 TRADING PARTNERS

According to Roy Morgan’s latest survey, 93 per cent of Aussies say they were more likely to buy Australianmade products - up from 87 per cent a year earlier. But what of products from our other major trading partners? An interesting question for beauty retailers as the overwhelming bulk of popular cosmetic brands sold in Australia comes from France, the US, Germany and increasingly Japan and South Korea. China is Australia’s number one trading partner and suffered the biggest decline in consumer preferences over the past year - from 30 per cent to 21 per cent - notes Roy Morgan. New Zealand won out in the most favoured nation stakes with 55 per cent of Australians saying they are more likely to buy products made in New Zealand. Close on the heels of our nearest neighbour were the UK (51%), the US (47%), Japan and Germany (both 46%). Asian trade partners such as Singapore, South Korea, India and Malaysia also scored well with Australian consumers, attracting 34 per cent, 29 per cent and 17 per cent likely-to-buy ratings for their products. Roy Morgan says that Australia’s closed borders policies have strongly contributed to growth in popularity of locally-made products. Australian-made products have experienced a surge in support during 2020 with a large majority of 93 per cent of Australians more likely to buy a product that is “made in Australia”, up 6 points from 2019, says Michele Levine, CEO of Roy Morgan. Less than 1 per cent of Australians say they are less likely to buy a product that is “made in Australia” - unchanged from a year ago. “Although the preference for Australian-made goods is very high across all age groups, it is Baby Boomers (96%) and Generation X (94%), who are even more likely to prefer Australian-made products than other generations,” she said.

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INDUSTRY NEWS LVMH UNVEILS US$894 MILLION REVAMP OF LA SAMARITAINE

Opened in 1870 and closed in 2005, La Samaritaine was once one of the grandest department stores in Paris with an Art Nouveau facade and soaring glass atrium. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, bought a majority stake in the landmark store in 2001, assuming full ownership in 2010. Located between the Louvre and Notre Dame, the store has been re-named La Samaritaine Paris Pont-Neuf by DFS. After a US$894 million renovation and the addition of a wavy facade extension, courtesy of Sanaa, the Pritzer Prize-winning Japanese architects, the result exceeds its former glory days. La Samaritaine is the DFS Group’s second branded store in Europe after T Fondaco dei Tedeschi in Venice. With 420 locations worldwide, the travel retail multinational attracted more than 160 million travellers a year worldwide before the Covid-10 pandemic and is majority-owned by LVMH. At 3,400 square metres, the basement floor of La Samaritaine is the largest beauty hall in continental Europe. Over 200 luxury beauty brands are on show, including Chanel, Dior, Guerlain and Dolce & Gabbana. The Pure Beauty (Beaute Pure) section is the home of fashion-forward and gender-neutral brands such as Aesop, The Ordinary, Le Labo, Westman Atelier and Dermalogica. The Helena Rubinstein skincare brand, owned by L’Oréal, returns to La Samaritaine, alongside Asian favourites such as Shiseido’s Cle de Peau, SK-II and AmorePacific’s Sulwhasoo and La Prairie. Master classes will be held at the Makeup Bar, where customers can also “play” with a select group of brands, including Charlotte Tilbury, Christian Louboutin, Hermes and Tom Ford. The House of Perfume is for big spenders only with luxury fragrances priced from 3000 euros ( AUD$4,715) to 30,000 euros (AUD$47,155), including limited edition juices from Bulgari, Tiffany and La Haute Parfumerie de Guerlain. Nearby are more wallet-friendly perfumes from Jo Malone, Diptyque, Frederic Malle and Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Beauty services are a major attraction for those in need of pampering, including the Cinque Mondes Spa and Studio de Beaute - a 165 square metre sanctuary devoted to natural beauty, hair, hand and foot treatments. Unique to department stores in France, the beauty advisors work for La Samaritaine and are brand-agnostic to help customers across all their choices. In September, a luxury 5 star hotel, the Cheval Blanc Paris, will open adjacent to La Samaritaine. Both are must-sees when tourists return en masse to Paris. 38| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

MECCA FIRST AUSTRALIAN IN-STORE RETAILER FOR REVAMPED KYLIE COSMETICS RANGE

Coty shelled out US$600 million to acquire a majority stake in Kylie Cosmetics in 2019. Two months ago, Andrew Stanleick, a longtime Coty veteran, was appointed CEO of Kylie Jenner’s namesake beauty brand. He also helmed the re-launch of Covergirl and is now in charge of overseeing the makeover of Kylie Cosmetics. All of the products in the refreshed lineup have new vegan formulas and cue in with the clean beauty trend. The complete range is free from parabens, animal-sourced oils, 1600 potentially harmful ingredients and gluten, even though the wheat protein is rarely used in cosmetics. The direct-to-consumer website - Kyliecosmetics. com - also offers Kylie Skin products for the first time. Another major step forward was the appointment of key bricks-and-mortar retailers around the world following the online release. Mecca was selected in Australia, together with Harrods and Selfridges in the UK, Douglas across Europe and Nocibe in France. Kylie Cosmetics debuted in-store in Ulta Beauty in the US at the end of 2018 and this agreement will continue. Jenner herself announced the makeover to her 240 million Instagram followers, revealing that her bestselling Lip Kits now offer 8 hours of wear. We are so excited about the re-launch of Kylie Cosmetics with a reformulated range that is really at the forefront of everything Gen Z wants, noted Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty. “Kylie Cosmetics is followed by many millions of people across the world. Our new online platform, along with selected retailers, allows consumers to buy their whole beauty routine in one space, from the cleanser to the moisturiser, the highlighter, or the lip colour.”

The Covid-19 pandemic dealt two major body blows to the global fragrance industry. A deep slump in travel retail and the fact that socialising and partying were off the table in many key markets. But the industry started to turn a corner in the first half of the year as vaccine programs saw more people out and about in the US, China and Europe. The way people understand the role of fragrance has evolved during the coronavirus crisis, says Jerry Vittoria, chairman of the US Fragrance Foundation and global president of fine fragrance at Firmenich, the world’s largest privately-owned fragrance and flavours company. “While the pandemic has hit our industry hard, our consumers’ reaction and evolution of their fragrance rituals emphasises the importance of fragrance in all our lives. Simply put, fragrances played a powerful role in supporting us.” Here is a list of the major gong winners from the recent US Fragrance Foundation Awards for 2021. All of them are available in Australia, in-store or online at retailers including Myer, David Jones, Mecca, Chemist Warehouse and Peony Melbourne. 1) Women’s Luxury - Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden - A Chant for the Nymph 2) Men’s Luxury - Ermengildo Zegna Ezzenze Roman Wood 3) Universal Luxury - Byredo Tobacco Mandarin 4) Women’s Prestige - Giorgio Armani My Way 5) Men’s Prestige - Dior Homme Eau de Toilette 6) Universal Prestige - Tom Ford Black Orchid Parfum

INDUSTRY NEWS

US FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION AWARDS HONOUR TOP SCENTS

7) Popular Fragrance of the Year - Ariana Grande R.E.M. 8) Hall of Fame - Lancôme Tresor 9) Indie Fragrance of the Year - Arquiste Misfit 10) Consumer Choice, Women’s Prestige - Marc Jacobs Perfect 11) Consumer Choice, Women’s Popular - Victoria’s Secret Bombshell Passion 12) Consumer Choice, Men’s Prestige - Calvin Klein CK Everyone

COTY TO LAUNCH IN-STORE TOUCHLESS FRAGRANCE TESTERS

Many of the hygiene and safety rules implemented during the Covid-19 pandemic are here to stay. Consumers worldwide have quickly adapted to contactless delivery and retail transactions. In-store cosmetic testers have long been under fire for being potential spreaders of diseases such as golden staph. In one notorious case four years ago, an American woman tried to sue Sephora in the US, claiming she had caught herpes from a lipstick tester. Coty has announced the launch of digitally-enabled, touchless fragrance testers. Trial testing will begin in core European markets this month, followed by a planned trial in Asia later this year. The global rollout will be completed over the next 12 months. Instead of spraying fragrance onto a card – the widespread practice followed

in most retail stores globally – which is wasteful because it disperses fragrance into the air. The new Coty device delivers a single drop of fragrance directly onto a consumer’s arm or blotter. As well as cutting down on fragrance loss, the devices capture data which allows retailers to position them in store areas where demand is higher. Coty is the global leader in fragrances as the licensee for leading prestige brands, including Gucci, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Burberry and Chloe. The multinational partnered with Everie, a French company specialising in micro-dosing and dispersion technologies. The device can run for weeks without re-charging, which will also slashes running costs. RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |39

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Online Retail

Round Up

The latest news, views and insights happening in the online world of retail.

AUSSIE VITAMIN SUBSCRIPTION COMPANY RAISES $5.5 MILLION IN FUNDING

In 2019, the Australian vitamin and supplement market was valued at $5 billion. The Covid-19 pandemic has fast-tracked consumer demand for wellness ingestibles and Grand View Review, the US based market researcher, predicts that the global dietary supplements market will reach US$230 billion by 2027. Larah Loutati and Ilyas Anane launched Vitable in March 2019 to tap into the growing demand for health and well-being products. Instead of a one-size-fits-all approach, the entrepreneurs’ main point of difference was personalised packs sold directly to consumers. Loutati was formerly a senior executive with HelloFresh, the Germany-based meal kit company which is the market leader in the US and operates in Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Scandinavia and Western Europe. Anane also has strong tech experience with Rocket Internet, the German venture capital company, which strongly supported fashion retailer, The Iconic. Rocket internet also injected funds into Vitable in early 2019 during its initial growth phase. Other seed investors included BWX, the owner of Sukin skincare, through its BWX Tomorrow Fund. Dave Fenlon, Group CEO of BWX Brands, and Oliver L’ORÉAL TAPS TIKTOK FOR SOCIAL SELLING TRIAL

TikTok has soared into contention over the past couple of years. The Chinese social media platform is now giving Facebook and Instagram a run for their money in social commerce. According to Bazaarvoice, the US retail software company with an office in Sydney, TikTok has enjoyed a 553 per cent surge in sales via the site over the past year. By contrast, Instagram and Facebook recorded growth of 189 per cent and 161 per cent, respectively, over the same period. Ed Hill, senior vice-president of Bazaarvoice, says that the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on social commerce has been significant. “Over the past year, commerce has become a cornerstone feature for social platforms, as consumers have spent more time on social apps.” Beauty brands have been fast on the uptake to use TikTok as a marketing springboard to attract younger shoppers. The platform’s campaigns for e.l.f. Beauty, the budget US makeup brand, have pulled in more than one billion views globally. Last year, Rihanna’s Fenty brand was the first beauty player to launch a dedicated TikTok facility for content creation. Now L’Oréal has debuted a pilot program for its Garnier and NYX Professional brands to harness TikTok’s social selling prowess. As part of the partnership, beauty shoppers will be able to buy select products from the two brands without leaving the app. The multinational is betting that social commerce will mimic the success of livestreaming and live shopping. According to Roy Morgan Research, nearly 2.5 million Australians use TikTok in an average four-week period - up 52.4 per cent during the first half of 2020. Women and girls account for 60 per cent of Australian users and Generation Alpha (born since 2006) and Gen Z (aged 16 to 29) make up 70 per cent of total users. 40| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

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Samwer, CEO of Rocket Internet, are both members of Vitable’s Board of Advisors. Vitable up-ended the usual off-the-shelf MO of the vitamins and supplements market and has expanded to New Zealand and Singapore. The company helps customers to create a personalised vitamin and health supplement regimen through an online questionnaire and algorithms. Vitable’s formulas and supplements are made in Australia. In 2020, more than 250,000 consumers completed the company’s questionnaire to receive individualised vitamins and supplements. Another plus point of the monthly subscription service is that products can be customised further if health needs change. The company has raised an extra $5.5 million in Series A funding to fuel Vitable’s further expansion in the Asia/Pacific region. One of the major new investors is Brenteca Investments, a fund founded by Ben McHarg of the Life-Space Group, whose portfolio includes Australia’s number one probiotics brand and Pentavite, the children’s supplement brand. Artesian, the venture capital company, and Clifford Rosenberg, the former managing director of LinkedIn ANZ, have also invested in the fast-growing company.

strategy of not selling fashion, watches and jewellery online during the pandemic. But Chanel’s fragrances and beauty products are sold through e-commerce and global online sales rose 113 per cent in 2020 and 57 per cent in the first half of 2021. A strong performance which partially off-set the deep dive in travel retail revenues. Skincare was a standout performer, thanks to the Le Lift and Sublimage franchises. Fragrance sales were bolstered by worldwide loyalty to Coco Mademoiselle for women and Bleu de Chanel for men. Hopes are also high that the 100th anniversary of Chanel No 5 this year will deliver a major uptick to the iconic fragrance’s already considerable bottom line. Chanel is confident that the tide has turned and expects sales to increase by double digits by the end of the year compared to 2019. China and the US are driving the recovery and the company invested US$1.36 billion last year to support its fashion, jewellery, watch and skincare businesses. Makeup revenues have suffered during the Covid-19 pandemic, as they have for many prestige brands. But Chanel is confident of a rebound in its global fragrance and beauty sales and remains committed to expanding its global network of standalone beauty boutiques. Sustainability is also top-of-mind. Chanel launched a climate action program last year - Chanel Mission 1.5 - in a bid to reduce carbon emissions by 50 per cent by 2030 and switch to 100 per cent renewable electricity by 2025. The fashion powerhouse is also sticking to its long-term policy of building strong local customer bases in key markets, rather than relying on tourist shopping. Chanel says it will continue to focus on achieving 80 per cent of its revenues in each market through its local customers. SEPHORA AND EUROPEAN FASHION GIANT TO REV UP ONLINE PRESTIGE BEAUTY SALES

CHANEL LOOKING TO DOUBLE DIGIT RECOVERY AS ONLINE BEAUTY SALES SURGE

With lockdowns in major North American and European markets, Chanel’s revenues slumped 18 per cent in 2020 to US$10.1 billion. Overall sales in Europe plunged 36.4 per cent to US$2.885 billion. While revenues in the Americas slid 15 per cent to US$1.966 billion and Asia/Pacific suffered the least with a 3.1 per cent drop to US$5.27 billion. The prestige fashion house did not waver from its long-term

Sephora has built up an outstanding reputation for innovative and disruptive strategies to fast-track global growth. The LVMH-owned global beauty chain announced the largest expansion of its US network in February. The company will open 260 new outlets - 60 standalone and 200 concept boutiques within the Kohl’s department store chain - by the end of this year. Sephora will end its 15-year partnership with JCPenney stores in the US at the end of 2022. Its new agreement with Kohl’s will overlap, leading to the opening of a total of 850 Kohl’s storein-stores by the end of 2023. In Europe, Sephora has announced a new long-term partnership with Zalando, the Germany-based fashion giant, in a bid to “reinvent how consumers shop beauty online”. The team-up will start in Germany in the last quarter of the year and roll out across Europe next year. Sephora will gain access to Zalando’s 42 million active users in RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |41

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20 European markets for its thousands of products across 300 prestige and exclusive beauty brands. Zalando is the most successful online fashion platform in Europe. According to David Schneider, co-CEO, beauty represents a huge and exciting opportunity for us, with the online beauty market still largely untapped in Europe. “As a one-stop destination for fashion and lifestyle, we want to empower and inspire Zalando customers to find the perfect choice of fashion and beauty in one space and at the same time give our brand partners a platform for their digital success”, he adds. Martin Brok, President and CEO of Sephora, confirmed that the partnership illustrates the company’s ambition to relentlessly innovate and delight our customers better than anyone else. Zalando is no stranger to beauty and already sells more than 13,000 products from more than 350 beauty brands. The mass and masstige brands on the platform will continue to be sold separate from the Sephora-designated space. SOCIAL SELLING AND E-COMMERCE FUEL RECORD PROFIT FOR L’OCCITANE

L’Occitane’s fiscal 2021 global net sales flatlined to 1.53 billion euros (AUD$2.41 billion). But even though 75 per cent of its stores worldwide were shuttered during the Covid-19 pandemic, the prestige beauty multinational delivered its highest-ever net profit of US$187 million (AUD$248.7 million) - up 36.3 per cent. Online sales soared 69.2 per cent in the financial year to March, representing more than 33 per cent of the group’s total worldwide sales. Social selling strategies in Asia prompted major upticks in sales in Taiwan, South Korea and China. Revenues in China surged 36 per

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While the impacts of Covid-19 may still linger, we expect online sales in high-growth Asian markets to remain robust. cent over the period, confirming its status as L’Occitane’s biggest and best-performing market. L’Occitane also debuted 68 social selling initiatives in Europe and launched a pilot client program in the US. In addition to its hero brand - L’Occitane en Provence - the multinational’s stable of brands includes prestige skincare player, Elemis, LimeLife, the US colour cosmetics brand, Melvita and Erborian. LimeLife with its e-commerce only and social mediafocused business model was the group’s fastest-growing brand in FY2021 at 25.7 per cent. Earlier this year, Elemis debuted in China in an exclusive partnership with Sephora, rolling out in all of the beauty chain’s 269 Chinese stores. The brand also launched e-commerce websites in key markets, including France, Germany, Italy, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and Thailand. According to Reinold Geiger, Chairman and CEO of L’Occitane - “While the impacts of Covid-19 may still linger, we expect online sales in high-growth Asian markets to remain robust. With the inherent strength of our brands, the determination and focus of our management team, as well as our targeted investments, we believe we have laid a strong foundation to accelerate growth and expand profitability further in the coming years.”

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How lockdowns drive health & beauty online Australian web traffic and search patterns reveals consumer behaviour shifts during lockdowns. By Emmanuel Heymann, Vice President, and Mir Jawad, Head of Solutions Engineering, at SimilarWeb Australia and New Zealand. It’s only when things are taken away that we realise just how much they mean to us. When the pandemic forced Australians to isolate within their homes last year, we suddenly realised the importance of all the things we had taken for granted. One of the things Australians missed most while in lockdown was their health and beauty regime. Given the social distancing requirements, one of the first industries to shut down was the Health and Beauty sector. Suddenly, millions of Australians had no access to the expert beauty advice they had come to rely on – and many of them went online to take matters into their own hands. By analysing Australian web traffic and search engine queries throughout 2020, we found the Health and Beauty sector was the second fastest growing online industry – with a 54 per cent increase in web traffic – behind only Home and Garden. The findings, detailed in our Digital100 Insights Report, uncovered a range of interesting shifts in consumer behaviour as the nation adapted to life in lockdown – insights which brands can use to increase their online presence and meet the evolving needs of Australian consumers. DIGITAL DIY

One of the trends our analysis uncovered was an increase in Australians tuning into online tutorials to help them keep up appearances while in lockdown. YouTube became the de-facto expert many turned to. Over the course of last year, beautyrelated question queries (searches with “how”, “what”, “when” etc.) increased by 106 per cent. Many of these searches first led customers to YouTube. With beauty tutorials having an immense

impact on the consumer decision-making process, this evolving search behaviour during the shopper journey means brands should consider developing video tutorials and “how-to” guides to engage consumers online. K-BEAUTY BOOMS

When looking at the 10 fastest growing Health and Beauty websites last year, a clear trend emerged with the rise of K-Beauty among Australian audiences. K-Beauty is essentially an umbrella term encompassing beauty products made in Korea. Generally, these products have an emphasis on nurturing and hydrating the skin over the long-term, rather than “quick-fix” solutions such as overnight skin-peels. These products also tend to embrace natural – and sometimes unusual – ingredients like snail mucin. The fastest growing Health and Beauty website last year, stylevana.com, is dedicated to Korean beauty products and grew an astronomical 924 times last year – from around 1,500 Australian visitors in 2019 to more than 1.4 million in 2020. Nudieglow.com – another K-Beauty focused site – was the ninth fastest growing, witnessing 264% growth. DECIEM DOMINATES

While most of the fastest growing Health and Beauty websites were either ‘marketplace’ sites selling a range of different brands and products, or sites offering reviews, tips, and guidance, Deciem emerged as the most popular brand for Australians with 475 per cent growth in 2020. Perhaps the best way to highlight its popularity is to look at the 10 fastest growing search terms in the final few months of 2020. With around 15,000 direct search terms related to Deciem each month between September and December, it clearly commanded the highest overall traffic, making up six of the top 10 fastest growing search terms. Interestingly, with the exception of “bondi boost hair growth”, the remaining top 10 in the same period were related to K-Beauty. LIVING ONLINE

Figure 1: Traffic to Australia’s 10 fastest growing Health and Beauty websites grew exponentially during the initial coronavirus lockdowns. Source: SimilarWeb

Before 2020, a digital presence was for many businesses a ‘nice to have’, but last year accelerated the shift toward digital-first. The fastest growing Australian brands were those who responded best to these new consumer demands. Digital has well and truly become the primary way we engage as a society – whether that’s with friends and family via video conference, streaming entertainment, working remotely, or taking care of our skin. In the last 12 months, we’ve seen the pandemic change online consumer behaviour entirely, and many of these changes are likely to persist long after the pandemic. www.similarweb.com RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |43

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Patriot Gains – The Growing Power of Australian-Made

by Elisabeth King Like K-Beauty from Korea, A-Beauty, as Australian-made skincare and cosmetics are collectively known, has been kicking goals for decades. But the Covid-19 pandemic has super-charged local consumers appetite for Australian-made products and international markets are scouring the world for benefits that Australian beauty brands have long been famous for - high quality, value, efficacy, natural and ease-of use. Australian ingredients such as tea tree oil and sandalwood are used by some of the world’s leading cosmetic and pharmaceutical multinationals. But other native actives have risen to prominence in recent years, including kakadu plum, and are making their mark in international markets. Retail Beauty talks to leading and upcoming Australian beauty, skincare, beauty and wellness brands about the shift to buying local, their best-selling ranges and new product rollouts. 46| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

ASTOUNDING ONLINE GROWTH

It’s no surprise that in 2020 the health and beauty category in Australia grew by an astounding 56.8 per cent yearon-year in e-commerce sales due to a Covid-driven online spending boom, says Brett Riddington, General Manager, Kora Organics APAC, founded by

Brett Riddington, GENERAL MANAGER, KORA ORGANICS APAC

supermodel Miranda Kerr. “With more time spent at home, a huge focus on selfcare and consumers choosing to support local businesses, Kora Organics has been fortunate to see a huge increase in demand over the past year. We have four new product launches scheduled for this year -

two released in the first half - and we have seen our highest revenues since launching in 2009. Being an Australian brand is definitely a contributor to our growth, and being Certified Organic is the key driver for us and really differentiates us from other skincare brands.” I believe locally-made products have become a preference for consumers over the past 18 months for several reasons, adds Riddington. “The buy local trend gathered momentum during summer 2019/2020 when Australia was hard hit by devastating bushfires. An outpouring of support was given to local communities in need. There were a number of advertising campaigns urging Australians to support local businesses, which became more evident during Covid-19 lockdowns. Every time you buy Australian-made you support jobs, economic development and prosperity in Australia.”

NATIVE INGREDIENTS UPTICK / SCIENCE-BASED SKINCARE / TOP VALUE

We’re definitely seeing more interest from consumers looking for products that are not only designed but also made locally, says Leanne Parodi, Head of Marketing for Nude by Nature. “We’ve also seen an

Leanne Parod, HEAD OF MARKETING, NUDE BY NATURE

uptick in consumer interest for Australian native ingredients. Grown in harsh climates, these exotic ingredients really pack a punch when it comes to skin benefits and we are seeing them trend on a global, not just a local scale.” Skincare has been a clear winner over the Covid-19 pandemic and products with wellness benefits have seen tremendous growth, says Parodi. “As people adjusted to the new normal, beauty products and services that they would normally seek in a professional environment were brought into the home. Nude by Nature has always believed in natural products and we were thrilled to launch our new, high-performance skincare range in August. Formulated from the best natural ingredients, the products are 100 per cent natural, vegan and cruelty free.” We re-launched our best-selling Natural Mineral Cover foundation this year, adds Parodi. “Apart from the new skincare launch, we are introducing a new range of silicone-free primers that provide the perfect base for makeup and a new alcoholfree Natural Setting Spray”. During the Covid-19 pandemic, the supply of materials, safety, hygiene concerns and extension of delivery

timeframes has resulted in many consumers opting for trusted brands that are made and can be easily accessed in Australia, says Xuan Henderson, Marketing Director for Ultraceuticals.

Xuan Henderson, MARKETING DIRECTOR, ULTRACEUTICALS

The global skincare products market was valued at US$140.92 billion and is projected to grow at a CAGR of 4.69 per cent during the forecast period from this year to 2026, says Henderson. “For Ultraceuticals, our products across all categories have grown over the past year, with the highest demand being for cleansers, moisturisers and treatment serums. Our online sales have experienced high double-digit growth due to Covid restrictions. We are seeing a decline in makeup sales in the industry and an increase in self-care.” Our key values as a proud Australian brand include a strong focus on servicing and supporting our salon/ clinic business network, she adds. “Our guest consumers are loyal to us because not only do we formulate and produce locally, we also support local Australian initiatives such as WIRES during the bushfires and will also collaborate with Dress for Success in the near future to help Australian women in need. Our most notable launch in the last quarter of the year will be Ultra B2 Hydrating Hydrogel Mask.” Boost Lab is a new brand, says founder Craig Schweighoffer, but I

Craig Schweighoffer, FOUNDER,BOOST LAB

believe that consumers are wanting less in terms of quantity and more in terms of value or quality, which Australian brands traditionally offer. “More than anything, consumers are moving back to tried and tested and they value safety. We have seen growth across the board. Boost Lab offers affordable serums, so we really don’t have price resistance and our products complement any skincare regime.” A standout for Boost Lab has been our 2D-Hyaluronic Acid Hydro Boost Serum, which won Best New Serum in beautyheaven’s Glosscar awards, he adds. “We will be launching two new

serums later this year to round out our offering. The first is a serum targeting really sensitive/ dry irritated skin and the other is formulated for oily skin and large pores. For us, the brand is all about providing 5-star serums for 3-star prices and being made locally and we call out both benefits in all of our messaging.” AUSTRALIAN GROWN/ TRANSFORMATIONAL CARE

TALKING POINT

In July, Kora Organics launched Minty Mineral Hydration Mist, which is a certified organic hydrating facial mist that delivers essential moisture, refreshes makeup and boosts natural glow, says Riddington. “Our core products have performed exceptionally well, notably Turmeric 2:1 Exfoliating and Brightening Mask. It is our number one selling product and we have been marketing it as an athome facial and a treatment to combat maskne. In April, we launched Turmeric Glow Moisturiser, which has received an incredible amount of support globally from media, key opinion leaders and celebrities such as Katy Perry, delivering the highest number of sales for a product launch.”

In addition to increased sales in Australia during the Covid-19 pandemic, Vicki Engsall, Co-Founder of The Jojoba Company, says that the brand has

Vicki Engsall, CO-FOUNDER, THE JOJOBA COMPANY

enjoyed double digit growth internationally. “Many markets have opened up for us over the past year because of the continuing interest in A-Beauty. The rest of the world is looking at Australia as a clean, green, sustainable, safe environment that produces quality products.” More people are supporting home grown brands to help our economy recover, notes Engsall. “When you use an Australianmade product, you are directly supporting our farming families and industries. Australian-produced products offer traceability, so consumers know how they are handled and that ethical practices have been used. We will also become Australian Made certified by the end of the year.” We have seen a big lift in our age-defying category, which has grown by double digits year-to date, she says. “There has been major growth in the serums and oils category and also our Jojoba Water Toning Mist and Eye Balm. We introduced two new products into the age-defying range - a cleansing oil and the new and improved Ultimate Serum. Both outperformed our forecasts, notably the re-formulated Ultimate Serum, which has enjoyed a 70 per cent increase year-to-date.” The Jojoba Company will be launching a new Transformative Eye Cream on October 1, says Engsall, as an addition to the age defying range. “It has three potent peptides and botanicals. One of the key actives - Inst’Tight- works to instantly diminish fine lines, while another, IBR Snowflake, works to relax the muscles, offering a natural and safe alternative to injectables.” RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |47

TALKING POINT

Alpha-H has seen a surge in demand over the past year, says Tina Randello, Chief Commercial Officer. “More people have focused on their skin health and have opted for transformational corrective care like Alpha-H. Twenty-five years ago, we were one of the first brands to use acids for skin health and there is a real sense of trust and respect for our products. The

Tina Randello, CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER, ALPHA-H

Alpha-H community is global, but our local ‘alphaholics’ have continued to increase over the past year.” We have also seen a rise in interest in Alpha-H across the US, Europe and the UK off the back of the A-beauty movement, she says. “Our relaxed lifestyle, commitment to sustainability, nature and transparency and our growing reputation for highly efficacious products that stand up on the global stage have all contributed to our recent growth.” Our acids continue to be the products we are most famous for and have grown significantly, adds Randello. “Alpha-H Liquid Gold remains our cult favourite. Locally and overseas we sell one bottle every two minutes. We launched Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot over the past 12 months, an industry-first combination of Granactive Retinoid 1% and Glycolic Acid 14% in a silky smooth serum. We have a patent pending on the technology and it is already our number two product. We have several new products launching before the end of the year - a new cleanser, addition to our vitamins range and our hugely popular annual holiday collection.” SUPERFOODS / NATURAL SKINCARE UP 12 PER CENT / SEED TO SKIN

Over 80 per cent of respondents in one of our recent consumer surveys said that being Australian made was a key purchasing decision criteria for them, says Viv Foulsum, Senior Brand Manager for Raww Cosmetics. “We pair supporting

Viv Foulsum, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, RAWW COSMETICS

48| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

local with clean, natural and effective ingredients, which are important values to Australian beauty lovers. The pandemic really spurred consumer interest in how and where their favourite beauty products are made and there’s a lot of research being done prior to purchase.” Skincare has been the big winner over the past year, says Foulsum. “Our superfood skincare range has rocketed to the top of bestseller lists. Purify-ME Gentle Cleanser has become such a hero product that we can barely keep it in stock. One of the few cleansers that doesn’t leave the skin feeling thirsty, its clean formula and under $30 price point ticks all the boxes.” July saw the release of Raww Superfood Face Tint and our new skincare hero - Bakuchiol Boost Face Oil - debuts in September, she adds. “A fountain of youth in a bottle, it contains 2 per cent Bakuchiol extract, an Ayurvedic superfood which is a natural substitute for retinol. We are proud that we have launched Raww in Europe as an A-Beauty brand and will soon be debuting in the US and the UK.” Retailers and consumers have strongly supported Australian brands like Inika Organic over the past year, says Polly Roderick, Senior Brand Manager for Inika Organic. “So we have tried to

Polly Roderick, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, INIKA ORGANIC

go above and beyond to support retailers struggling during lockdowns by ensuring our sales team was out in force at store level, providing positivity and commercial and emotional support. A recent Roy Morgan study revealed that 58 per cent of Australians prefer to buy Australianmade beauty, personal care and cosmetic products and 23 per cent believe that Australian-made beauty products are associated with higher quality. At Inika, we take pride in the fact that our skincare is made in Melbourne. We use the best botanical extracts and earth-derived pigments in our formulas, which are certified organic, vegan and cruelty-free.” Premium natural skincare specifically has seen a 12 per cent global increase over the past 12 months, she adds. “Trending categories include serums, hair masks and handwashes. In the colour cosmetics category, we have seen a massive shift away from heavy, matte and full coverage looks to more natural, sheer and dewy skin.

Products that have performed well include our Radiant Glow Veil Primer, new Lip & Cheek Cream and our nourishing lip balms. Mascaras and eye products have also done well as the eyes have become the focal point of the face with more people wearing masks.” Inika Organics is excited to be launching its first tanning product in October, says Roderick. “Our certified organic and 100 percent natural Tanning Mist creates a buildable sun-kissed glow without clogging pores, streaking and dehydrating the skin and doesn’t contain alcohol or synthetics.” We have seen a real hunger for locallyproduced products over the past year, says Stacey Trinh, General Manager ANZ for Jurlique. “We are very fortunate at

Stacey Trinh, GENERAL MANAGER ANZ, JURLIQUE

Jurlique that we hand-grow and handharvest most of our botanicals at our farm in the Adelaide Hills. A result of the pandemic has revealed that consumers are more interested in where their products are made. Locally made products can mean more ownership over the production process and provide consumers with the confidence that we can sustainably and ethically fulfill our ‘Seed to Skin’ ethos.” The hand care and aromatherapy categories performed well over the past year, she says. “In May, we launched a re-formulated version of our best-selling Activating Water Essence. The silky, hydrating essence is boosted by two powerful marshmallow root extracts and Jurlique’s signature Radiance Blend. We will also be undergoing a brand refresh in the near future, which will allow us to share our heritage with consumers in a new and more meaningful way, taking advantage of the heightened interest in Australian-made brands.” MAKEUP CHOICE SHIFTS / NUMBER ONE NATURAL SKINCARE BRAND

Bushfires and the Covid-19 pandemic have strongly motivated consumers to support their fellow citizens, says Natalie Daynes, Senior Brand Manager at

Natalie Daynes, SENIOR BRAND MANAGER, HERITAGE BRANDS FOR INNOXA AND AUSTRALIS

Heritage Brands for Innoxa and Australis. “Shopping locally is a great way to do this, not only because you are helping more Australians, but you are reducing the environmental footprint because products do not have to be transported across the world.” Skincare has performed very well during the pandemic, but the choice of makeup products has changed, too, she adds. “Gone are the days of wearing a full coverage foundation to the office. It’s all about BB creams and this trend will continue. We have also seen a huge trend for nostalgic products as consumers sought comfort and looked back to their childhood and young adult days. Australis launched a collection with Barbie of an eye palette, strawberry face spritz and dream kit of lip glosses. It’s performing particularly well because it brings the fun back into makeup.” To cue in with the more natural look, Innoxa launched a shade extension to its Anti Ageing Tinted CC Cream lineup in June, says Daynes. “A range extension to Australis best-selling Fresh & Flawless range debuted in August. The lineup has a strong selling point as it actively fights existing pimples and helps to prevent future blemishes. The powder foundation and concealer lineup was joined by a primer and Finishing Spritz containing tea tree oil and witch hazel. A new Fresh & Flawless Face Palette includes two dewy face powders, two matte powders, a buildable blush and highlighter.” Sukin is Australia’s number one natural skincare brand but we have seen a major increase in demand over the past year says Lauren Oetomo, BWX LTD (Sukin Australia) Marketing Director. “All

Lauren Oetomo, MARKETING DIRECTOR, BWX LTD (SUKIN AUSTRALIA)

research indicates that the beauty and personal care business is tracking a similar trend to the slow food movement. The Covid-19 pandemic has re-awakened the importance of supporting local brands. The desire to ‘give back’ to the community, to utilise and maximise what we have available on our own doorstep and to feel more in control of our own destiny have motivated consumers to actively seek out local brands and products.” For Sukin, our hand wash segment grew strongly and so did our natural haircare, she says. “Over the past 12 months key

products that have performed well have been men’s skincare, Foaming Facial Cleanser, SPF 30 Untinted, Purely Ageless Reviving Eye Cream, Jelly Exfoliator, the Ready, Set, Glow bundle, Cleansing Hand Wash and Botanical Body Wash. We are proud of our heritage and will be celebrating our 15th birthday in 2022, so watch this space.” PHARMACY POWER / SUPERMARKET SUCCESS

Consumers and healthcare professionals are supporting Australian-made products more than ever, says Tenille Taylor, Marketing Manager ANZ for Ego Pharmaceuticals. “An example of this

Tenille Taylor, MARKETING MANAGER ANZ, EGO PHARMACEUTICALS

can be seen in pharmacies where brands and retailers are using point-of-sale to help consumers to identify Australian brands. During the pandemic, Ego experienced a huge increase in traffic across all our websites as consumers turned to online searches for health information. Our hand sanitiser, Aqium, performed exceptionally well, as did our QV range of soap-free cleansers and moisturisers. In September, we launched our new QV Dermcare range - Eczema Daily Wash and Eczema Daily Cream. They are the only products of their kind in Australia to help relieve the symptoms of mild to moderate eczema and repair the skin barrier.” Covid has shown that having products made in our own country can help to ensure continuity of supply, says Alan Oppenheim, Managing Director, Ego Pharmaceuticals. “Having a pharmaceutical industry making products in Australia - like the Covid vaccine and the skincare products we make at Ego means the people of Australia can be more confident in their health, in the supply of medicines and hence in their prosperity as a community.” We are focusing on listening and fulfilling the needs of our customers in Australia, ranging from the consumers that use our products to the Australian pharmacies that retail them, he adds. “To help continue the growth of Ego Pharmaceuticals, we are investing $25 million in our 2.5 year expansion and upgrading of our production plant in Melbourne. We will also continue to drive our export business hard through

our 190 staff based in 12 countries outside Australia.” MCoBeauty, Australia’s leading luxe for less, cruelty-free brand, has seen huge growth over the past year and I believe that being an Australian brand has strongly contributed, says Shelley Sullivan, Founder and CEO. “Because we are

Shelley Sullivan, FOUNDER AND CEO, MCOBEAUTY

a supermarket brand and supermarkets remained open throughout lockdowns, we have acquired lots of new customers who might not otherwise have tried our products - and now they are well and truly converted. Apart from the shift towards buying Australian-made to support local business, buying beauty products from overseas can be a long and arduous process with delayed international shopping. And, of course, because people aren’t travelling overseas, they aren’t purchasing from brands that aren’t available in Australia or are difficult to purchase.” Whenever Covid restrictions were tightened or lockdowns implemented, we saw a spike in sales of our at-home beauty tools, particularly our Super Smooth Facial Brow Razor, when people couldn’t access their salon appointments, she notes. “Our number one best-selling product is our XtendLash Tubular Mascara and it was also the number one selling mascara in Woolworths in 2020. Our foundations and concealers are always hugely popular, too. Earlier this year, we launched our new Miracle Hydra Glow Oil-Free Foundation, Instant Camouflage & Contour Concealer and Mega Balm All-Over Ointment. They have been runaway successes and even though they have only been on the market for less than six months, they are already some of our most popular products.” While we do ship internationally online at mcobeauty.com, the majority of our business comes through our Aussie retailers, Woolworths and Big W, so the home market will always be our main focus even as we scale to launch in the US, says Sullivan. “We launched MCoBeauty Skincare in August, which was hugely exciting.” FOUR GENERATION HISTORY / FASHION AND ECO-FORWARD

Natio has a long family history of four generations of manufacturing in Australia. Our research has shown that buying RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |49

Australian is a key consideration when consumers are making their purchasing decisions, says Sky Briffa, Natio Global Sales Manager. “Based on this, Natio

Sky Briffa, GLOBAL SALES MANAGER, NATIO

has been sharing our Australian ownership story via our many media platforms, including social media, web, public relations and advertising”. We proudly make over 90 per cent of our products in Australia, he says. “Consumers have become acutely aware of the economic benefits of supporting Australian made and owned and many are re-discovering the high quality of ingredients and manufacturing standards we enjoy in Australia. With the increase in work from home, we have certainly seen a surge in demand for Natio Home Happiness essential oils. “They help to create an atmosphere that can be uplifting or calming to boost your mood and productivity at home There’s also been interest in selfpampering and our Spa Bath and Body range has really taken off. Bath salts and scrubs are a great way to reward yourself with a little me time. In late August we added to our popular SPF 50+ suncare range with a new Clear Zinc Mineral Sunscreen, which has a sheer finish formula and leaves no white residue.” Beauty entrepreneur Zoe Foster-Blake has leveraged her “worry-free” skincare range, Go-To, to must-have status. As a digitally-native Australian brand, GoTo definitely benefited from the online transformation springboarded by Covid-19 and its associated lockdowns, says Leonie Faddy, Group CMO for Go-To. “Being

Leonie Faddy, GROUP CMO, GO-TO

able to buy Australian and support local businesses became a way that consumers could add to the success of Australia’s battle with the pandemic. “Logistics was another reason. As the world shut down, pressure on the global chain increased. Brands that manufactured locally and had shored up packaging and raw materials were the winners as demand increased. Initially, we 50| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

had a mix of Australian and New Zealand manufacturing, but Go-To will be 100 per cent Australian-made by the end of this year, reducing our carbon footprint further and boosting our sustainability mission.” We have seen growth across all core SKUs, she says. “Self care and Zoom meetings really put the spotlight on skin. This resulted in a big appetite for quality, effective skincare and meaningful, helpful education to support purchases. Customers were also more willing to experiment. Because they weren’t going out to events and wearing makeup, they tried new regimes or added in new products like masks.” The mask category has been a particularly strong one for Go-To over the past year, adds Faddo. “At-home facials became a trend out of necessity, but even after salons re-opened customers had adopted and become good at their in-home routines. A shift that really helped to drive the success of The Removalist, a nourishing clay mask we launched in January. In September, we made the move into more active skincare with the launch of a new brightening serum. It features all the classic Go-To trademarks that our community loves and expects. Effective and gentle, it is formulated with potent antioxidants and best-in-class botanicals to make a real difference to the skin.” WORLD-FIRST TECHNOLOGY / MULTI-FUNCTIONAL

We were already in a great trajectory before the pandemic, says Lucy Macdougald, Managing Director of Biologi, the

Lucy Macdougald, MANAGING DIRECTOR, BIOLOGI

revolutionary skincare brand which uses world-first technology extraction and Australian native ingredients. “We’ve noticed an increase in customers not only wanting to take care of their facial skin but also their bodies. We have super-sized our best-selling Bf Restore Face and Body Serum to 100ml. Perfect for use from head to toe from the hair to the feet, we sell one Bf serum every 20 minutes.” We launched our Bc Refresh Cleanser in May 2020, she says. “It’s a world-first 100 per cent active and 100 per cent natural cleanser, harnessing the power of Soapberry. We discovered that this extract works as a cleanser without the use of synthetic activating agents and potentially harmful surfactants and it has done incredibly well. At

Biologi, we offer full transparency regarding the sourcing, manufacturing and supply of our products and they are created through a plant-to-bottle process using locally-sourced fruits because being ethical and sustainable is incredibly important to us.” Launched five years ago, Cinch offers a multi-functional skincare range that allows consumers to ‘cull’ unnecessary products from their beauty routines. We had triple digit growth in 2020 and continued demand this year, says Renee Moore, Founder of Cinch. “Australian products are recognised

Renee Moore, FOUNDER, CINCH

as being some of the highest quality in the world and keeping manufacturing on shore is a great step towards supporting sustainability. We are also finding that when we train our retail partners’ teams in-store, the first question they ask is – ‘Are you Australian made?’ We use the Australian Made logo on all of our skincare products and collaborate every month with another like-minded Australian business.” We only offer cleansers and moisturisers and both categories have been consistent, she says. “We know our growth can be contributed to the increased demand for skincare, as many people ditched makeup during the pandemic and shifted their spend to skincare. Due to significant delays in manufacturing and increased demand for our existing products, we pushed our new product development out six months and focused on our base 2-step, 30 second ritual. In July, we launched Sleep + Glow, a 5-in-1 overnight booster mask to give the skin an epic glow.” KARDASHIAN-ENDORSED / COSMECEUTICAL SURGE

Ipsum is a relatively new brand and we launched in January 2019, says Janet Hayward, Founder of Ipsum Skin.

Janet Hayward, FOUNDER, IPSUM SKIN

“However, over the past year, we noticed a significant rise in interest and demand for Australian products, both locally and overseas. Our range is certified organic and made in Byron Bay, using only native plant oils and esters and super-charged with Australian native botanicals. In our

SUPERIOR SUN PROTECTION / WELLNESS AND BABY CARE

There’s nothing more Australian than sunscreen and We Are Feel Good Inc has carved out a strong reputation in surf and health food stores and pharmacies nationwide and internationally. We have noticed a huge emphasis on Australianowned and made, says Carly Simmonds,

Carly Simmonds, MARKETING MANAGER, WE ARE FEEL GOOD INC.

Marketing Manager of We Are Feel Good Inc. “Not only from customers within Australia, but also from potential customers and distributors globally. We recently launched in Europe and the UK. Last year, we debuted our Kakadu Plum Body Milk, which has become extremely popular locally and overseas with customers and media wanting to know more about the sourcing of kakadu plums.” Our top three bestselling products over the past 12 months have been our Sensitive Sunscreen SPF 50+ and Sticky Zinc, she adds. “Our body milks - Kakadu Plum Body Milk and Coco Milk - have also become very popular because of the increased emphasis on self-care. We also launched our new Cocoa Lip Balm SPF 50+ and our OG sunscreens in 75ml grabn-go tubes and both have been flying off the shelves.” We have a busy end to the year, says Simmonds. “Firstly, a new sunscreen - Kakadu Plum SPF 50+. We are also expanding our product range with After Sun Cooling Lotion, rich in aloe vera, cucumber and coconut oil. Finally, we will be debuting a new daily skincare routine Good Morning SPF 50+ and Good Night Skin Restoring Cream. All of the new products reflect where we live, our lifestyle and love for the great outdoors, with our packaging taking its cue from WA icons such as the Pilbara and Boranup forest.” Oil in Kind, the one stop shop online essential oils retailer, debuted in late 2019 and ranges high quality Australian brands such as In Essence, Perfect Potion and Eco Modern Essentials. We have experienced significant growth with online shopping peaking during the 2020 Victorian lockdowns, says co-founder Stephanie Rep. “It’s wonderful watching the rise of

Stephanie Rep, CO-FOUNDER, OIL IN KIND

conscious consumerism. The health and wellbeing category has performed very well over the past 18 months as people seek alternative ways to de-stress and bring more balance into their everyday lives. Our therapeutic range of essential oil blends have become our bestsellers, specifically those that aid sleep, stress and anxiety.” A key focus for Oil in Kind is to continue to grow our range of essential oil products and expand into new categories, she says. “As with our core range, we plan to do this in partnership with new and emerging

TALKING POINT

experience, consumers have a strong belief in third party certification and Australianmade signifies a high standard of quality, reliability and transparency.” There was a lot of activity on social media about supporting locally-made products during the height of the pandemic, she says. “For new, small and lesser-known brands that are not available in physical stores, this presented a huge advantage from increasing consumer confidence to reinforcing the potency of native ingredients. Our facial skincare and bodycare products have performed equally well over the past 12 months. Ispum Best Skin Body Oil Patchouli Rose is a bestseller, while Best Skin Face Oil is a potent, radiant skin booster treatment which also helps to maintain a healthy respiratory system.” Ispum Best Skin Cleansing Oil Balm and Ipsum Lip Oil Balm both launched just as lockdowns began nationally and have become heroes of the range, says Hayward. “The Lip Oil Balm has developed a life of its own, following the much-coveted tick of approval and induction onto the Czech List of US ‘skin whisperer’ Joanna Czech. We were beyond thrilled when she recommended it as part of the regular skin care plan for Kim Kardashian West - and then KKW went public and posted a mention on Instagram.” Our latest launches are Best Skin Enzyme MicroPolish and Best Skin Eye Oil Balm, she adds. “When Ipsum originally launched, the intention was to retail in Australia via our own online store. However, over the past year I have received so many requests for wholesale from both physical and online retailers that are now choosing Australian brands over their international counterparts. Ipsum is also currently available via likeminded retailers in Europe, Scandinavia, the UK and the US. Ipsum will be launching in the UAE later in the year and we will continue to seek opportunities to spread the word about Australian quality brands.”

Australian brands, providing them with a platform to reach new consumers alongside other reputable Australian brands. We will also be looking to explore new ways of driving engagement in the category through education by featuring well-known Australian aromatherapy experts on our site. Our focus in the final quarter of the calendar year is Christmas gifting and we are planning for our biggest festive season yet,” she says. Lovekins, the natural organic babycare, pregnancy and feminine hygiene brand, has scored blanket media coverage over the past two years. “Remote working has enabled more people to rediscover work-life balance with a growing focus on self-care and quality living,” says Amanda Essery, Lovekins founder and CEO. “Australians presented a united

Amanda Essery, FOUNDER AND CEO, LOVEKINS

front to support local brands to weather the economic downturn and the rising interest in natural Australian products among overseas distributors has enabled us to engage with customers from the US, Europe and the Middle East.” The Lovekins Pregnancy and Baby skincare ranges have performed exceptionally well, she says. “Our hospital partners and brand ambassador Dr Joseph Sgroi have reported an increase in maternity bookings, and the demand for relevant products truly aligns with the Covid baby boom phenomenon. Our Stretch Mark Cream, Stretch Mark Oil and Nipple Balm have done particularly well. During our recent exhibition at the Parent, Baby and Children’s Expo in Melbourne and Brisbane, we received overwhelming enquiries on our pregnancy products. It seems like more mothers are looking into well-being products and considering breastfeeding with the pandemic changing outlook on personal care and motherhood.” We are planning to launch a range of Afterbirth products to assist women with their postpartum recovery journey, adds Essery. “The range includes an Afterbirth Spray and Perineum Massage Oil. We are also excited about the launch of Lovekins Women Dynamic - a natural body care routine for women who lead an active lifestyle - including Body Cleanser, Body Hydrator, Body Exfoliator and Magnesium Body Spray.” RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |51

SPONSORED

Weleda’s Skin Food Iconic skincare since 1926

Skin Food has been a dry skin saviour since 1926. Loved by makeup artists and celebrities around the world, this ultra-rich cream deeply nourishes, hydrates, restores and protects very dry and rough skin. Rich, yet gentle, Skin Food products are certified natural and contain high quality plant extracts including organic chamomile, calendula, rosemary and wild pansy - all traditionally used to soothe the skin. With a product from the Skin Food range sold every 5 seconds worldwide, let’s find out why everyone is raving about it…

THE HISTORY The skin cream (Skin Food) was developed as a “therapeutic basic skincare product” for the whole family in 1926, particularly for rough, dry skin. It is an effective composition that is suitable for daily and night-time skin care. Back then, it was considered to be an all-rounder, since its composition with herbal extracts was soothing to the skin and helpful for minor injuries, as well as for hands that have been damaged by washing dishes or gardening.

THE FORMULA Skin Food is based on a water-in-oil emulsion that takes holistic skincare as its fundamental principal and aims to reinforce the skin’s natural strength while providing intensive protection. The idea in 1926 was to create a formula that was as close as possible to the characteristics of the skin, with the aim of providing the skin as a sensory organ with a good example of natural equilibrium. The botanicals of rosemary leaves, calendula and chamomile flowers has a regenerative effect and supports the self-regulation of both damaged and dry skin. Rosemary helps to optimise warmth penetration, while the calendula and chamomile flowers attenuate and soothe the skin’s metabolic processes. The pansy is well known as a plant that helps to soothe and calm the skin.

THE RANGE SKIN FOOD This rich and thick, aromatic cream deeply nourishes, hydrates and softens very dry and rough skin to appear healthy looking and luminous.

TOP 10 USES FOR SKIN FOOD • For face and body • Nourishes dry hands

SKIN FOOD LIGHT This nourishing cream brings immediate comfort to dry skin. A light, quicklyabsorbed lotion, it is great as an everyday facial moisturiser and can be used under make-up.

• Hydrates dry elbows

SKIN FOOD BODY BUTTER A soft, whipped texture hat melts into your skin leaving a luxurious, non-greasy feeling. The vegan formula is rich in organic sunflower seed oil, organic shea and cocoa butters, making your entire body irresistibly glowing and intensely moisturised.

• Heals chapped lips and nose

SKIN FOOD LIP BALM Intensively nourishes and moisturises dry, chapped and cracked lips, especially in cold weather to leave lips feeling supple with a glossy sheen.

52| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

• Softens cracked heels • Intense treatment for dry feet

• Revitalising face mask • Ideal makeup primer • Highlighter for cheekbones • For children and adults

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INDULGE YOUR SKIN WITH SUPERFOOD.

a.c WELEDA. YOU ARE NATURE. weleda.com.au

PROVEN RESULTS FOR DRY SKIN Increases skin moisture up to 52%* Soft skin feeling up to 80%* Skin feels nourished up to 83%*

*Agreement in consumer study using Skin Food original for 4 weeks.

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Loved by celebrities and makeup artists around the world, Skin Food intensively nourishes, restores and protects dry and very dry skin since 1921. Certified natural and packed with powerful plant botanicals including organic chamomile, calendula, rosemary and wild pansy, the Skin Food range helps regenerate the skin’s protective barrier and strengthens its lipid layer, for soft, smooth skin from head-to-toe.

PHARMACY NEWS

Pharmacy Online launches live streaming campaign

Leading cross-border ecommerce enabler, Azoya has launched a live streaming campaign in China for Pharmacy Online and Pharmacare to help meet consumer demand for high quality and authentic healthcare products from Australia. Using the latest live streaming features in WeChat’s Mini Program platform, Pharmacy Online hosted the joint campaign in April with Australian health products group, Pharmacare, alongside brands including Nature’s Way, Bioglan, Kids Smart, Redwin, Norsca and others. Pharmacy Online leveraged its fanbase from its official WeChat account, driving nearly 6,000 views from existing subscribers. The event resulted in three to seven times higher sales for Pharmacare’s various product lines in China, compared to an average content marketing campaign in WeChat. With China’s live streaming industry growing significantly over the past few years, it’s become an essential tool for Australian

brands and retailers to directly reach Chinese consumers and promote their products, according to Azoya managing director for Australia, Apple Yuan. “They love to buy Australian made natural and healthy products from an authentic retailer, even if it means they have to wait longer to receive a parcel shipped from Australia.” Due to the success of the ongoing campaign, Pharmacy Online is welcoming other Australian healthcare brands to co-host live streaming campaigns to help them expand into the Chinese market, establish brand awareness and leverage the pharmacy retailer’s traffic. Launched in 1998 as the first online pharmacy in Australia, Pharmacy Online has over 750,000 customers in more than 65 countries. The pharmacy retailer first entered the Chinese market in 2015, with a fully managed e-commerce platform developed by Azoya. Within five years, the company has generated more than one million orders, along with solid growth

in new customer registrations and WeChat subscriptions. “The past 12 months has certainly been challenging for our business in China due to travel restrictions and disruption to international logistics,” said Marc de Leeuw, CEO of Pharmacy Online. “While our e-commerce platform remains core to our business, we needed a new approach to be more present for our digital savvy customers, who have an increasing purchasing power. Our live streaming strategy developed by Azoya has given us the forum to reach them directly, build loyalty and extend our presence in the market.”

Sherpa CEO explains revolution in pharmaceutical delivery While same day delivery and prescription medication delivery is not new in the pharmaceutical sector, they are outdated and there is a more efficient and costeffective way to meet changing customer demands, according to Sherpa CEO, Duncan Brett. Delivering the keynote speech at the APP Conference on the Gold Coast, Brett said there is a revolution happening in pharmaceutical delivery, with the pharmacy industry’s reliance on online pushed into overdrive with Covid-19. “This has forced pharmacies to focus on convenience and deliveries at scale, which are now a necessity. They needed to find a better way to meet customer demand that is less clunky, costly and inefficient and this is what Sherpa does,” Brett said. “We are providing a sophisticated and better way for pharmacies to get medical products to their patients outside their retail facility. The feedback from pharmacy retailers who have taken advantage of the Sherpa model of same day delivery is that it has changed their business because 54| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

we have turned their stores into mini distribution centres. “Sherpa has become experts in the area of delivering highly regulated goods, by working with industry bodies to find the best solution, enforcing regulatory compliance and providing a better customer experience.” Sherpa has become Australia’s number one on-demand delivery partner, operating in 17 cities across the country, boasting a Delivered In Full, On Time (DIFOT) standard of 94% and working with some of the biggest global brands. “While we are retailer agnostic, we

have aligned ourselves with the pharma industry as a whole, with different business models, retail, suppliers, wholesalers and ecommerce to provide a better way for pharmacists to get much-needed medication to their patients,” Brett said. “Sherpa’s job is delivery. We do not compete with pharmacies or hold inventory. We simply get medical products in the hands of pharmacy patients quicker than anyone else. We are big, we are broad and we are good at what we do and the industry is discovering that they need our expertise to help them meet the challenges of the same day model at scale.” The benefits for multi-store retail, using the same day delivery model, has turned five days delivery into one hour and two to three days into one hour. “This provides pharmacies with the opportunity to efficiently and conveniently reach their customers, retain loyalty, ensure profitability and remain competitive. Sherpa has the expertise, technology and capability to help pharmacists do the whole process better,” Brett concluded.

Chemist Warehouse has partnered with Seedooh to provide independent verification of its Out of Home campaigns, in another endorsement for the growing company’s verification platform. Chemist Warehouse delivers various creative content involving multiple partner brands continually active, including numerous high-value Out of Home screens and signs around the country. Seedooh will now verify that the Out of Home ad spend is backed by accurate campaign delivery, working in close collaboration with Chemist Warehouse’s media agency Stratosphere to ensure the team has complete visibility. The secure third-party process is automated to ensure that results are rapid and accurate, removing the potential for human error or manipulation in manually handling large amounts of data. Chemist Warehouse group media and partnerships manager, Rutene Wharekawa said that Seedooh’s offering had clear advantages in terms of speed, precision and scale.

“Seedooh’s solution is unique because it provides complete and accurate data for every play on every screen and creates significant efficiencies through automation of reporting without resorting to timeconsuming manual processes,” he said. “It makes reporting and analysis at scale easy as information is standardised across all of our media partners and vendors. The real-time view enables us to report verified campaign delivery to our brand partners.” Seedooh Founder and CEO, Tom Richter said that the partnership with Chemist Warehouse and Stratosphere was a sign of growing interest in the company’s platform.

PHARMACY NEWS

Chemist Warehouse selects Seedooh for campaign reporting

“High-profile clients like Chemist Warehouse need a robust level of assurance that their marketing budget is not going to waste. Our solution gives them that confidence and is an important part of the service they provide to their brand partners,” he said. “Using our platform, any advertiser or agency can access their complete campaign data on demand for all Out of Home activity, without any additional steps required. It’s a fully automated process governed by best practice controls in data integrity, and the support of advertisers like Chemist Warehouse is proof of the unique benefits we deliver.” Seedooh’s Independent Verification Platform works via direct integrations with the ad servers that schedule and deliver digital Out of Home campaigns to almost all networks in Australia. It allows the data to be queried and analysed at scale and in real time in granular detail or in summary format.

Wesfarmers offers $687 million for Priceline Parent Company The global pharmacy market has become a tempting target during the Covid-19 pandemic. Amazon, already a major beauty retailer, jumped into the US$312.5 billion US pharmacy market late last year with the launch of Amazon Pharmacy, following its US$750 million acquisition of digital pharmacy PillPack two years earlier. Walgreens Boots Alliance, the global leader in retail pharmacy, announced a stronger-than-expected third quarter last week and revised its growth estimates for the fiscal year. Wesfarmers, the parent company of Bunnings, Kmart, Target and Coles, is one of Australia’s largest companies with revenues of $30.75 billion in 2020. The highly diversified multinational, like Amazon, also has its eye on the $25 billion Australian pharmacy market. In June, Wesfarmers raised $1 billion in cash through a sustainability bond issue. On Monday, the company used part of the war chest to make an unsolicited $687 million bid for Australian Pharmaceutical

Industries (API), the parent company of Priceline pharmacies. Analysts believe the offer is opportunistic because API shares have been trading at all-time lows. According to a report in the Australian Financial Review, Wesfarmers had considered a tilt at Chemist Warehouse but believes the API business model which franchises to pharmacists is a better bet. Washington Soul Pattinson, which has a 19.3 per cent shareholding in API, is already onside with an option to buy its stake if Wesfarmers matches or exceeds any competing offer for API. But a decision on the bid is still in the balance because industry observers believe it undervalues the value of API by 20 to 30 per cent. If the bid is successful, Wesfarmers will operate the business separately and retain its community pharmacy focus. Even though Wesfarmers has had an eye on the healthcare sector for some time, the API business, which includes Clear Skincare clinics and private label Priceline beauty

and health products, will account for only 1.9 per cent of its overall revenues. Any sale would impact the beauty and wellbeing industry because pharmacies have the highest share of the Australian beauty market at 19 per cent, followed by supermarkets at 12 per cent. Wesfarmers owns Coles, one of the big two chains alongside Woolworths, which has a significant beauty and well-being business. Wesfarmers has world-class supply chain, digital and product development expertise and could make the pharmacy industry more competitive across the health, well-being and beauty sectors. Pharmacies worldwide have increased their profits by becoming vaccination hubs during the Covid-19 pandemic and Australian pharmacies have been cleared to perform a similar role here. Another sweetener for Wesfarmers. RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |55

PHARMACY NEWS

Chemist Warehouse opens second European store

Australia’s largest pharmacy retailer Chemist Warehouse has launched its second European store, opening the doors in prime retail space on the iconic Henry Street in Dublin, Ireland. The opening comes as many businesses are closing due to the months of retail closures that Ireland has endured during the global Covid-19 pandemic. The new store is the second in Ireland with the first launching in October 2020 and joins over 450 Australian stores, 24 New Zealand stores and four China stores. In addition to the pharmacy dispensary services, Chemist Warehouse stocks Australian brands alongside local European product offerings across the health, wellness, beauty, baby, cosmetics and fragrance categories.

Delivering a branded offering at an affordable price for consumers health, wellness and beauty needs, the Chemist Warehouse brand has received a warm welcome from customers to date. The

larger retail format and ‘one stop shop’ variety of products has proved a perfect match for customers made more relevant by the changing and evolving shopping habits developed during extended lockdowns in Europe during the pandemic. “We are thrilled to open the doors to our second European store and provide our Irish customers with our top-notch customer service and unbeatable everyday low prices on a huge range of high-quality product. Since opening our first store in Ireland in 2020, we have already served a whopping 150,000 customers despite Ireland being in lockdown for six of the eight months since opening. It is a big achievement for the Chemist Warehouse Group and we couldn’t be happier,” Chemist Warehouse Director, Mario Tascone, said.

Samantha Jade fronts Priceline sisterhood fundraising campaign Priceline Pharmacy celebrated 10 years of its Priceline Sisterhood Foundation by launching a Support Our Sisters fundraising campaign. Australian singer-songwriter Samantha Jade called on Australians to head into their local Priceline Pharmacy for the month July and round up their purchase to help women and their families. To reward the efforts of employees, the Priceline Pharmacy store with the largest donation amount won an exclusive performance by Samantha Jade. While in store, customers were able to lend their voice to the cause by sharing stories, words and anecdotes about what Sisterhood meant to them. These words were used to help Samantha form the lyrics to the ‘Sister Song’. Priceline’s ambassadors also banded together to create a range of limitededition lipsticks with 100% of the profits going to the Priceline Sisterhood Foundation. Chrissie Swan, Ita Buttrose, Tanya Hennessy, Olivia Molly Rogers, Sarah Jane Adams and Lindy Rama-Ellis each created their own signature shade of lippie which customers were able to purchase in-store or online. 56| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

Samantha Jade knows the power of music and community. She hopes the Sister Song can be the feel-good anthem of 2021, while helping spread the message of Sisterhood to help raise money and awareness for the Priceline Sisterhood Foundation charity partners. “Sisterhood is not just a word, it’s a feeling – of support, solidarity and being seen. Sisterhood empowers us. It’s being each other’s cheerleader and lifting each other up. It’s gestures of care and sharing mutual understanding. I’m excited for people to share their stories of Sisterhood that will bring the Sister Song to life,” Samantha said. Gabrielle Tully, Head of Marketing at Priceline Pharmacy, said: “The Priceline Sisterhood Foundation was formed ten years ago to give back the communities in which we live and work. We were so excited to partner with Samantha Jade and get our customers involved by creating unique touchpoints throughout the month of July. We’re so thrilled to create a song about Sisterhood that expressed the collective voice of Australians and helped raise money for an important cause.”

More than 600 Pharmacy Assistants (PAs) and Retail Managers took part in this year’s Australian Pharmacy Professional Conference (APP2021), which saw 5,200 attendees meet face-to-face for the first time since 2019. A highlight for the PAs who attended were presentations and appearances by the 2020 and 2019 Pharmacy Assistants of the Year, Ben King and Brianne Lowe, and 2020 Glucojel Super Star Award winner Amber Greenwood. Presenting at a Pharmacy Guild of Australia/Maxigesic Pharmacy Assistant of the Year (PATY) Award Information Session, Ben and Brianne shared their experiences as PATY winners and provided tips to aspiring award nominees on what it takes to become a PATY winner. Ben, Brianne and Amber were also available for photo opportunities and informal chats with PAs at the Pharmacy Guild and AFT Pharmaceuticals stands. All three thoroughly enjoyed their time at APP. Amber was overjoyed with the phenomenal learning opportunity and personal growth which APP provided. From left Brianne Lowe, Ben King and Amber Greenwood.

PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA

Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Stars Shine at APP2021

“I learnt so much and met some incredible, influential people along the way and have been inspired to do more in my small community pharmacy,” Amber said. “To be surrounded by like-minded individuals with such passion and drive for four days, was truly life changing. Because of all of this I’ll never refer to myself in as ‘just’ a pharmacy assistant again.” Ben and Brianne will also be onsite at this year’s Pharmacy Assistant National Conference (PA2021), where they will be judging the 2021 PATY Award National Final. Held from October 22-23 in Brisbane, PA2021 also provides excellent opportunities for PAs to grow and develop. For further details go to www.pharmacyassistants.com.

CONTACT DETAILS THE PHARMACY GUILD OF AUSTRALIA (NATIONAL) LEVEL 2, 15 NATIONAL CIRCUIT, BARTON ACT 2600 PO BOX 310, FYSHWICK, ACT 2609, P: +61 2 6270 1888 F: +61 2 6270 1800 WWW.GUILD.ORG.AU

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Spring into action The best body care products to transition into the warmer months.

Arithmos Soothe Superfine Body Oil - https://arithmosskin.com.au Weleda Skin Food Body Butter - www.weleda.com.au Briogeo Banana + Coconut Nourishing Superfood Body Cream - www.mecca.com.au Ella Baché Gentle Enzyme Smoothing Body Exfoliant - www.ellabache.com.au UpCircle Coffee Body Scrub with Peppermint - https://upcirclebeauty.com Nontre Jasmine & Rose Miracle Glow Milk - https://nontre.co Mukti Bioactive Bath & Body Elixir - www.muktiorganics.com The Great State Soothing Skin Balm - https://thegreatstate.com.au We Are Feel Good Inc Kakadu Plum Body Milk - www.wearefeelgoodinc.com.au Natio Spirit Desert Lime + Salt Coffee Scrub - www.natio.com.au Sisley Paris Le Sculpteur - www.sisley-paris.com 58| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Jurlique Softening Rose Body Cleansing Cream - www.jurlique.com Elemental Herbology Muscle Melt Balm - www.elementalherbology.com Clarins Tonic Sugar Polisher - www.clarins.com.au Body Blendz Vanilla Blush Coffee Scrub - https://au.bodyblendz.com Elucent Anti Ageing Body Moisturiser - www.elucentskincare.com Raww Zen Time Body Oil - www.rawwcosmetics.com Grown Alchemist Body Cream Mandarin, Rosemary Leaf - www.grownalchemist.com L’Occitane Almond Shower Oil - https://au.loccitane.com Trilogy Exfoliating Body Balm - www.trilogyproducts.com.au La Mer The Renewal Body Oil Balm - www.cremedelamer.com.au Susanne Kaufmann Body Butter - www.mecca.com.au Burt’s Bees Hemp Body Lotion - www.burtsbees.com.au Dermal Therapy Sensitive Skin Wash - https://dermaltherapy.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |59

Faux freckles & graphic bold liner: The best beauty looks seen on the runway at AAFW

Afterpay Australian Fashion Week 2021 was the perfect opportunity to learn all about the makeup trends set to take over the next few months. Michelle Ruzzene caught up with Nicole ‘Pinky’ Thompson, Makeup Director for designer Daniel Avakian, and Sarah Laidlaw, Makeup Director for Ixiah, who shared exclusively with Retail Beauty their ‘howto’ guides for achieving a runway ready look.

01. 02

LOOK:

High impact matte lips matching the colours of the outfits in pink, red and burgundy. Key products: 01. Pink - Fenty Beauty Stunna Lip Paint in Unlocked 02. Red - MAC Retromatte Liquid Lip in Quite the Standout 03. Burgundy - MAC Retromatte Liquid Lip in Dance with Me

Pinky: For the Daniel Avakian show I wanted to create looks that gave the models a hyper-real feel. I was totally inspired by the colours, prints and lines in the collection and the slightly futuristic feeling. Each model had a different look to complement the outfits and their own facial structure. Graphic bold liner was used completely straight from the outer edge of the eye, to create a flash of colour as the models walked by.

LOOK:

A couple of models had a neon green version of the straight liner as a little surprise shock of colour. Key product:

@ pinkiiieee 03

60| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

04. Kryolan UV Aqua Paint in Day Glow Lime Green

AAFW

LOOK:

Our opening and finale model Shay Langley owned her special look, a delicate black curved liner to mirror or the print in her closing dress. Key products: 05. Clinique Black Liquid Liner 05

All colour moments were paired with hyper real perfected skin using MAC Studio Face and Body Foundation, brows were brushed up with Anastasia Beverly Hills Clear Brow Gel and lips super glossed with Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer. 06. Shay Langley closes the Daniel Avakian show.

LOOK:

Peachy-pink cream blush was buffed into the apples of the cheek for that Eurochild-after-playing-in-the-snow glow.

Sarah: The Ixiah Resort ’22 Runway was titled Joi De Vivre. Ixiah’s Krystel English designed the collection around ‘the joy of dressing’ and channelling rawness, cultural adrenaline and cross-referencing the 70’s. The makeup needed to feel uber fresh and naturally beautiful with an effortless polish. The look was perfected, gleaming, après -facial skin, a smattering of faux freckles with a rosy flushed cheek, a glossed eyelid that caught the light ‘just-so’ and perfected, brushed up brows. Pretty and luminous. Polished but not pretentious.

Key products: 01. Milani Cheek Kiss Liquid Blush in Rose Romance and Cheeky Coral.

@ sarahlaidlaw 02.

LOOK:

Faux freckles were created haphazardly with a super-fine point brush and multiple shades of matte brown eyeshadow. Key products: 02. Models Prefer The New Nudes Eyeshadow Palette and NYX Professional Makeup Pro Angled Eyeliner Brush.

05.

03.

LOOK:

Brows were brushed up and perfected with super fine, individually hand drawn hairs using a super fine chisel brush and tinted brow gel. Key products: 03. G lam by Manicare Precision Brow Duo Brush Set and Maybelline Tattoo Studio Waterproof Brow Gel

04.

All models were prepped with high pigment concealers, polished into the skin and pinpointed powder to leave a healthy, hydrated gleam across most of the face. A lick of top mascara and the look was complete. 05. Models on the Ixiah runway.

LOOK:

Lips were hydrated and plumped with balms and the slightest hint of a pinky-nude tint for that your-lips-but-better feel. Key product: 04. Lanolips Tinted Balms in Perfect Nude, Rhubarb and Rose. RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |61

5 minutes with...

Christian Wilkins The son of Today Extra host Richard Wilkins, Christian, is known for not conforming to either style or gender stereotypes. The 26-year-old, who came out as gay in 2018 and is known for his luscious, long blonde hair, has always been a regular on the Sydney social scene. He recently stole the show in a lace wedding dress at the Romance was Born show at this year’s Afterpay Australian Fashion Week and made his acting debut in the Stan Original series Eden. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the first male ambassador for Pantene. 62| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

5 MINUTES WITH

The pros and cons of the beauty industry are one and the same – diversity.

01. Christian in a lace wedding dress at the Romance was Born show at AAFW.

02. Pantene Intense Miracle Shots Collagen Repair Treatment.

01.

YOU ARE THE FIRST MALE AMBASSADOR FOR PANTENE – WHY IS THIS BRAND A GOOD FIT FOR YOU?

Well, first and foremost, it’s a great fit because I genuinely use and love Pantene. Hand on heart. Also, because haircare is for everyone and Pantene have always gone out of their way to make a place for people of minorities, especially the LGBTQI+ community, so to be part of that representation is such an honour. The access to amazing products like the new Miracle Treatment Collection is absolutely a game changer, particularly after having bleached hair. My particular favourite is the Pantene Intense Miracle Shots Collagen Repair Treatment because they’re quick and effective. WHAT LESSONS HAVE YOU LEARNED GROWING UP IN THE PUBLIC EYE?

Kindness costs nothing and being a celebrity doesn’t excuse that fact.

WHAT ARE SOME FUNDAMENTAL PROS AND CONS WITH THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

The pros and cons of the beauty industry are one and the same - diversity. While we’ve come a long way, and in many ways the industry is leading the charge at being more diverse, there’s still a little while to go. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN FIVE YEARS?

Hopefully still with great hair! WHAT WOULD YOU GO BACK AND TELL YOUR 18-YEAR-OLD SELF?

Pink bobbed hair with a feather piece is NOT CUTE. Also, you’ll find your LGBT community soon, and it’ll be life changing. WHO HAS THE BETTER HAIR – YOU OR YOUR DAD?

Well, I get it all from him, so he’s surely got to take the cake.

DID YOU THINK YOU’D END UP IN THE BEAUTY BUSINESS?

It’s certainly always been a dream of mine. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST MISCONCEPTION PEOPLE HAVE ABOUT YOU?

Assuming that people actually spend time thinking about me – that I love to go out and have a wild time. Really, I love nothing more than staying home, cooking porridge and watching Handmaid’s Tale.

02.

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WELLNESS

A place for truth On gaining the courage to speak and live your truth, and experiencing the freedom it brings. By Olivia Ferrari RIGHT NOW, we are constantly facing uncertainty. Life is already uncertain but now more than ever we are faced so consistently with the unknown, and what once were simple plans, can now become complicated just hours before the event. As a collective we are moving into a place of greater stability and in order to achieve this, that which is unstable must be cleared. You may even notice that everything previously built on an unstable foundation has begun to, or has completely, crumbled. To be stable we must act from our place of truth. What is this ‘truth’ I speak of ? Your ‘truth’ is the voice to which you listen when acting from your honest self. To listen and honour your intuition and act accordingly. Saying “no this doesn’t feel right” and not doing it. Having the courage to do what feels right at all times despite society’s expectations of you. This puts aside our culture’s expectations and definitions and gives empowerment to what feels right to us. Possibly quitting your 9-5 because it is soul destroying or staying in your job because you love it despite your parents’ comments. If you get anxiety every time you drink alcohol perhaps it no longer serves you. So how do I operate from my truth? The answer is simple: act from the place of feeling rather than the mind. This is easier said than done. Having the courage to act from this place poses some challenges. The best way to start is to firstly acknowledge and accept where you are right now. Saying yes, I have been acting from society’s expectations rather than my truest self but that is OK and I am willing to change. Start by testing which voice is your intuition. Take simple situations to begin with: you get a negative niggling feeling in your gut when your colleague asks you to dinner, and despite declining her last advances, that uncomfortable sensation in your gut is telling you it will not serve you, so you politely decline. The next day you find out two of the girls fell sick after the dinner, or you hear from

a friend who had gone to the dinner that the colleague shared some gossip that doesn’t align with your values. Another scenario you might relate to: you wake up one morning craving chocolate so you treat yourself to a particularly special bar, only to find out your magnesium stores were low. It is only society’s expectations and your own programming that says you shouldn’t have chocolate for breakfast - try honouring your own feelings. Assess all areas of your life. Where are there red flags? What do I hate doing but do it anyway? What in my control causes me emotional pain? Over time you can adjust the above situations causing you pain and instability and move into a place of truth, knowing that this will take some time. With making these changes you will be surprised how many new doors open for you and situations flow. You will be more present in your day-to-day and open to what life has to offer, knowing the universe has your back. And what’s even more important when you live in your truth you live happy.

To be stable we must act from our place of truth.

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Olivia is an English-born qualified masseuse, meditation and yoga teacher, running Olivia Ferrari Wellness. For bookings and more information: www.oliviaferrariwellness.com ph: 0424 046 301 fb: @oliviaferrariwellness

The unisex fragrances that smell amazing on (almost) everyone.

FRAGRANCE

Gender Neutral

Diptyque Orphéon EDP www.mecca.com.au Obvious Un Bois EDP https://agencedeparfum.com.au Amouage Material EDP https://agencedeparfum.com.au Serge Lutens Féminité du bois EDP www.cosmax.com.au Goldfield & Banks Bohemian Lime www.goldfieldandbanks.com Narrative Lab Parfum Oil in Renew https://narrativelab.co CK Everyone EDT www.coty.com Jo Malone London Myrrh & Tonka Cologne Intense www.jomalone.com.au Mukti Botanique Parfum No.1 www.muktiorganics.com Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male EDT www.puig.com/en DB Force of Nature (EDP) www.dbcosmetics.com.au

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AINSLIE WALKER TALKS

Niche Fragrance News

SPRING

FRAGRANCE UPDATE In this year of ongoing uncertainty the trend continues in seeking solace, comfort, entertainment and escapism through fragrance. I have searched across Australia to find events, exhibitions and cinematic experiences which tickle the senses and take us into next level sensory entertainment. OLFACTORY ART FOR THE SENSES The exhibition Eucalyptusdom opened in July at The Powerhouse Museum in Sydney’s Ultimo. It showcases new commissions of more than 17 artists, designers, film makers, sound artists, scent artists, glass artists and performers, including First Nations artists. The exhibition centres on our almighty eucalyptus trees and our ever-changing relationship with them. On display are more than 400 objects from the Powerhouse collection including a large collection of distilled eucalyptus oils in antique apothecary bottles. As part of the exhibit, which runs for a year, a scent was created in collaboration with glass artist Anna Kirk and myself (scent artist Ainslie Walker). The scent contains six eucalyptus oils, an accord to represent technology, an accord of ash after bushfires, rain and lightening and is diffused into the space. Talks, workshops and latenight events will continue throughout the exhibition’s schedule. More information: www.maas.museum 120 YEARS OF ATTRACTION Perth’s Raine Square played host to perfumery exhibition 120 Years of Attraction in June. A first of its kind, the exhibition showcased iconic, rare and important perfumes curated by collector, writer and historian Dimitri Dimitriadis. Dimitri chose significant bottles from 1900 to 2020 from his vast collection of fragrances, which illustrated major movements in design and events that changed our global psyche. Major global events such WW1, WW2, the Space Race, Orientalism in the 60s, art deco and the 80s Egyptian revival – like Guerlain’s Djedi – were all illustrated through fragrance and design. The bottle and box design represented the global consciousness at the time. A focus on the unsung artists and masterminds of product design was a focus of the exhibition including designer Phillip Stark for Nina Ricci. Architects, sculptors and product designers were in the spotlight for the first time. Australian designer Christopher Chronis and female architect Zaha Hadid’s work were celebrated. The exhibition ran for one month with 66| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

120 Years of Attraction was held in Perth.

walking tours of 30-40 mins available with Dimitri himself throughout and a gorgeous beautifully presented book available as a keepsake. A launch event involved Western Australian sustainable fragrance brand Heartwood, who provided personalised fragrances for attendees to take home. Let’s hope Dimitri will be able to bring his exhibition to the East Coast. I caught up with Dimitri for a virtual tour and a Q&A: WHAT IS THE OLDEST BOTTLE ON DISPLAY? From 1860 by Robert Hendre, a fragrance made for Queen Victoria in apothecary bottles with stoppers so stuck fast even I have never smelt the fragrance inside. WHAT IS THE MOST EXPENSIVE/SOUGHT AFTER/ RARE BOTTLE ON DISPLAY? The gorgeous Chanel Ivoire from 1932, it is so rare because stock may have been destroyed in the 40s-50s during WWII.

FRAGRANCE HOW DO YOU FIND THESE ICONIC FRAGRANCES FOR YOUR COLLECTION? Quite a serendipitous process, for example L’Ambre de Carthage by Isabey, a bottle designed with red coral by Julien Viard from the 1920s was found seven years ago in Greece by my brother in a flea market for a very cheap 1.50 euros. Not only that, afterwards our dad found it in the house and threw it in the bin four times. The bottle is worth 7000 euros. I find bottles sourced through friends and family, antique markets, op shops and online. HOW DOES ONE START A COLLECTION LIKE YOURS? Identify what it is you want to collect – the bottle? The packaging? Particular year or era? Particular perfumers? HOW WOULD WE KNOW WHAT IS OF VALUE? Identify antiques of the future – will they speak to you in the future – what will they say? What is their story and significance? If you look for sculptural bottles designed by sculptors and architects, the bottles tend to keep their value, for example Nina Ricci – not necessarily big in market but they became collectors’ items. More information and books available: Instagram @120yearsofattraction

Dimitrios Dimitriadis. (Photo Alex Mansour)

PERFUMERS UNCOVERED Halston Increasingly the ever mysterious and secret world of perfumery is opening up to us. This year saw the release of Halston, a Netflix series, which follows the life of American fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick, known mononymously as Halston, played by Ewan McGregor. In Episode 3 we see the development of both the iconic perfume by perfumer Bernard Chant (although in the series the perfumer is a woman) and the infamous bottle designed by Elsa Peretti. A fantastic and dramatic window into the American fragrance and fashion industry.

Les Parfums – Perfumes As part of the French film festival 2021, Arcadia Distribution launched Perfumes (Les Parfums), a subtitled (French to English) movie across Australia. The film played at Orpheum Sydney, Palace Cinema James St Brisbane, State Cinema Hobart, Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth. The movie follows a perfumer as she travels for her work and the quirky friendship that develops between her and her chauffeur. Interestingly there is raw materials mentioned and the creative process explained. The movie openings in each city included a fragrance demonstration and talk with audiences being able to experience materials mentioned in the film demonstrated by me. More information: www.thisisarcadia.com RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |67

From Oriental,

to Amber

Why it was time to rename the Oriental fragrance families by Clayton Ilolahia, Communication & Evaluation Consultant, Fragrances of the World Changes to Michael Edwards’ Fragrance Wheel are as rare as comets, so when they occur it is for good reason. The last change was in 1998 when Michael added the Water family to account for the exponential growth in fragrances with marine notes. In June of this year, Michael sent out the media release, ‘It’s Time to Change’, announcing that Fragrances of the World is replacing the word Oriental with Amber in all English language classifications. The families that used the outgoing word in their descriptions have been updated to

Floral Amber, Soft Amber, Amber and Woody Amber. There has been a lot of discussion, particularly in the US and the UK where our work is used extensively, about the term Oriental being outdated and, in some contexts, offensive. In 2016, Barack Obama enacted legislation banning the word in government documents as a description for people of Asian heritage. Many will be familiar with the oriental sensuality evoked by such fragrances as Opium and Shalimar. We noticed that

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Copywrite © Michael Edwards 1992 - 2021

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younger people do not make the same association. In a world now connected by global travel and the Internet, the fantasy of ‘the Orient’, as it was once portrayed, bears little resemblance to the modern cities of Shanghai, Tokyo or Seoul. Critics point out the word is a reminder of colonialism, of a time when Anglo countries saw themselves as the centre of the world and everything east was exotic. “Terms which indicate a direction on a sphere are intrinsically ridiculous: Near East, Far East, Western Hemisphere, West Indies...” said biophysicist and writer Luca Turin, who added, “Oriental was never particularly descriptive. If anything, the ‘Orient’ gave us sandalwood, patchouli and oud, none of which screams Shalimar.” Within the context of perfumery, the term Oriental was never intended to be offensive, but perceptions change. Perfumers, evaluators and marketing executives from leading oil houses were asking for our opinion. Some of their

There has been a lot of discussion, particularly in the US and the UK where our work is used extensively, about the term Oriental being outdated and, in some contexts, offensive.

THE AMBERY FRAGRANCE FAMILIES:

Amber Sensual blends of golden resins, opulent flowers and sweet vanilla. Example: Amber Absolute Tom Ford Notes: Patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, labdanum, incense Floral Amber Imagine luminous flowers warmed with spices, resins, and vanilla. Example: La Vie et Belle Eau de Parfum - Lancôme Notes: Pear, blackberries, iris, Sambac jasmine, orange blossom, gourmand notes, patchouli

FRAGRANCE TRENDS

clients wanted to avoid using the word to describe their fragrances. These concerns sent us on a journey of enquiry. Opinion was divided. One perfumer traced the word’s origin back to English literature from the Middle Ages, where it was used in a complimentary way to describe a place of splendour and abundance. Another contact in China said that amongst his peer group, there was no objection to the word. Sue Hyun Busto, a Korean-American fragrance publicist living in the UK, pointed out: “In the US, the AsianAmerican experience varies. Even amongst our community, the ideology about race and identity is so different.” LA Times writer Jayne Tsuchiyama wrote: “Most Asian Americans have had racist epithets hurled at them at one time or another, but Oriental isn’t in the canon.” Unlike other racial slurs, the sting lies not so much in the word itself, but a version of history and stereotypes the word upholds. Taiwanese-born American perfumer Yosh Han argues that: “Oriental is an outdated term with colonial roots. Edward Said’s seminal book, Orientalism offers a critique on the West’s perception of the East. But what is the East, except othering, exoticising and fetishising? ‘Oriental’ has no olfactive meaning and in fact, no other industry uses this term.” Committed to change, our next step was to define new language. Amber was a front runner because the word was already established. Oil distilled from Baltic amber was in use as early as the 17th century. Frenchman Georges de Laire was the ground breaker who developed the first synthetic perfume bases in the late 19th century. De Laire launched Ambre 83 in 1889, which Symrise describe as “an intricate blend of synthetic Vanillin, along with natural ingredients including vetiver, patchouli and jasmine”. This led to Guerlain creating Jicky in the same year. Then perfumes like Shalimar and Tabu used the sensuality of amber to communicate stories about the exotic Orient. These oriental accords blended vanilla with woods, spices, balsams and resins, musk and floral notes. Amber accords from this period were much the same. In his 1931 book, Le Livre du Parfumeur, perfumer Félix Cola’s formula for Ambre Synthétique No 3 contained nitro musks, vanillin, benzoin, tolu balsam and lesser quantities of incense, vetiver, patchouli and isoeugenyl acetate (a spicyfloral note). The advance of chemistry has widened the spectrum of ambery notes perfumers

Soft Amber Incense casts a spell on sweet spices and resins, to create softly sensual fragrances. Example: Rouge - Comme des Garçons Notes: Beetroot, ginger, pink pepper, geranium, Akigalawood, patchouli, labdanum, incense Woody Amber Spicy amber accords woven with potent wood notes of patchouli, oud, and sandalwood. Example: Golden Oud Mizensir Notes: Bulgarian rose, Assafi oud, papyrus, Cetalox, amyris

use today. In addition to the amber notes found in classics like Shalimar, the industry often uses amber as a simple way to describe ambergris as well as a group of related “woody-amber” ingredients. In Michael’s classification system, ambergris is much like musk, it is a supporting note shared by all families. His Woody Amber family encapsulates the use of modern woody-amber ingredients. We still recommend that the industry refines its language around amber notes to avoid the potential of confusing consumers. Since Michael announced the update of his Fragrance Wheel, the response has

been overwhelmingly positive. A majority of oil houses have started talking about change, and numerous global brands have begun replacing oriental with amber in their product marketing and training content. We expect these changes will happen quietly, whilst the US Fragrance Foundation and media sites like Scent Festival, ÇaFleureBon and Fat Mascara champion the change through their digital media channels. “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.” – Margaret Mead RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |69

An old trend is re-emerging:

Sandalwood is back

Quintis Sandalwood Plantations.

Indian sandalwood. It is a keystone to many classic fragrances. You can instantly recognise it for its sweet, woody and warm aroma. By Danae Christensen, Market Innovation Manager at Quintis Sandalwood Indian sandalwood is one of the more long-lasting perfume notes. By deeply penetrating the skin as well as equalising the vapour pressure within a fragrance formula to deliver a fixative effect, sandalwood helps a scent to unfold more slowly and evenly – resulting in a longer-lasting perfume. The unique characteristics and precious scent of Indian sandalwood and its ability to transform a fragrance has been revered over many centuries across the globe. However, the history of Indian sandalwood has seen some troublesome times, with illegal trading and overharvesting making the ingredient scarce in the 1990s to early 2000s. Thankfully now the Santal revolution has arrived once again with Indian sandalwood making a comeback, leaning on its luxurious history, legendary perfumes and a new sustainable source in Australia.

The Industrial Revolution gave fragrance an unprecedented platform across Europe and Great Britain where perfumery moved away from the small laboratories of organic chemists, and into larger factories where large-scale production became practice. Advances in chemistry enriched the perfumer’s palette with new ingredients and more efficient modes of travel opened trade routes. Western perfumery benefited with increased access to natural ingredients from the East, such as spices, sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli. At this stage, Indian sandalwood was in high demand. Perfumes steeped in sandalwood oil were often accompanied by stories that stimulated the imagination, encompassed by tales of faraway lands and cultures.

A RICH AND LUXURIOUS HISTORY

Indian sandalwood is a tree deep-seeded in Indian culture, and one of the most valuable ancient oils in existence. It was adopted across Egypt, Greece, and Rome centuries ago for religious practices, medicine, and cosmetics. During the emergence of perfumery at the end of the 19th century, sandalwood oil was used in Western perfumery but with the high cost, it was reserved for the most luxurious fragrances. 70| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

Diptyque Tam Dao EDP.

REVOLUTIONARY SCENTS FROM LEGENDARY PERFUME HOUSES

The turn of the 19th century was a significant time in French perfumery. At the forefront was Francois Coty, who was a perfumer and entrepreneur who was said to have conquered the fragrance world. His first major triumph was creating the sensual, sweet, floral fragrance he named L’Origan in 1905. He used synthetic ingredients to modernise his classic perfume structure that was made up of citrus, floral and woody notes which included sandalwood. L’Origan

FRAGRANCE 01.

was the beginning of modern perfumery and formed the foundation of many legendary perfumes. As perfumery grew and each progressing decade brought new expressions of art, music and fashion, classic, legendary fragrances were created from some of the most recognised fashion houses in the world. Perfumes like Chanel’s Bois des Iles and Guerlain’s Shalimar were escapism to a romanticised version of life. The composition of these luxury fragrances more often than not included sandalwood as an important ingredient.

01. Quintis Sandalwood Oil Labels. 02. Hermès Hermessence Collection Santal Massoia eau de toilette.

AS THE DEMAND CONTINUED TO GROW, TROUBLE WAS ON THE HORIZON

As the decades progressed, mindsets towards fragrance shifted even though the use of sandalwood oil remained prolific. As a new millennium approached, trouble on the horizon was unavoidable. The supply of Indian sandalwood was finite, and no sustainable source was available. As the demand for Indian sandalwood rose exponentially throughout the late 20th century, so too did its illegal poaching and harvesting – resulting in it being listed as a vulnerable species in 1998 by the International Union for Conservation (IUCN). This was also the same year that Guerlain released his last legendary fragrance Samsara, using sandalwood oil in excess. ETHICAL SUPPLY OF INDIAN SANDALWOOD OIL DRIVES NEW AGE FRAGRANCES

For the following two decades in the early 21st century as the global shortage of Indian sandalwood reached crisis level, almost all fragrances relied solely on synthetic sandalwood replacers or native Australian sandalwood to achieve the note. It is only recently since a sustainable resource of Indian sandalwood has been established in Australia, through companies like Quintis Sandalwood, one of the largest suppliers of natural, ethical and sustainable Indian sandalwood, that creativity with Indian sandalwood oil in fragrances is again flourishing. Fragrance experts Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin point out in their 2008 perfume guide, “Anyone who has ever worn real Indian sandalwood oil straight knows that it is the perfume in itself: milky, rosy, ambery, woody, green, marvellous.” With its strong olfactory

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profile and the greater availability of supply, Indian sandalwood oil is now recementing its place in new age legendary fragrances like Hermès’ Santal Massoia and Diptyque’s Tam Dao. With many brands leaning on nostalgic references during the pandemic, the incomparable warmth and rich, creamy wood scent of Indian sandalwood - an ingredient deeply interwoven with culture and history - will likely see this ancient, natural ingredient continue its resurgence in the fragrance industry. RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |71

OUT & ABOUT

Out & About

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty pre Covid-19 lockdown.

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ROCHWAY BEAUTY SLEEP OFFICIALLY LAUNCHES IN AUSTRALIA Media and influencers were treated to the official launch of Australia’s first beauty and sleep tonic in small group sessions at The Ovolo in Woolloomooloo. Guests were invited to a ‘sleep experience’ where the Rochway Beauty Sleep tonic was unveiled. Brand Ambassador Tegan Martin, Naturopath and Holistic Wellbeing Expert Krystle Alves and Peter Ferragina from the brand took each group through the impact sleep can not only have on our lives but also our beauty, with Tegan sharing her own personal journey to a better night’s sleep. Combining natural sleep aids with probiotics, the natural berry liquid is formulated with sour cherry and calming herbs valerian and hops to encourage quality sleep to reset the body and mind. The unique formula also includes marine collagen and probiotics fermented with Rochway’s exclusive BioRestore fermentation process for optimal gut health and whole-body wellbeing.

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06. 01. Media and influencers at the event. 02. Rochway’s new Beauty Sleep probiotic liquid. 03. Naturopath and Holistic Wellbeing Expert Krystle Alves.

04. Rochway Brand Ambassador Tegan Martin with Beauty Boss Business Founder Melanie Burnicle.

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05. Jules Robinson and Rochway Brand Ambassador Tegan Martin.

06. Small group sessions were held at The Ovolo in Woolloomooloo.

07. Peter Ferragina from Rochway. 08. Cynthia Sinki and Donna Zhang.

OUT & ABOUT 01.

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CERAVE HOLDS #SKINCHAT TO CELEBRATE NEW CLEANSER Since launching in Australia in March 2019, CeraVe has been gaining steadfast popularity among dermatologists and consumers alike, to achieve and maintain hydrated, healthy-looking skin. The L’Oréal-owned brand held a brunch and insights-led #SkinChat panel to celebrate the launch of the new CeraVe Hydrating Cream-toFoam Cleanser. On the #SkinChat panel was Brooke Boney, Lauren Phillips, Dr Eleni Yiasemides and Lauren Phillips, who spoke in depth about their own CeraVe skincare routines and the importance of ceramides, hyaluronic acid and amino acids, which are all contained in the new cleanser. The motto for CeraVe has always been less is more – the efficacious product range is fragrance-free, paraben-free, allergy-tested and non-comedogenic. The new Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser is a gentle, hydrating and efficacious cleansing product that removes dirt, oil and makeup, without stripping essential moisture from the skin barrier. The new cleanser joins CeraVe’s existing cleanser range, including the Hydrating Cleanser, Foaming Cleanser, and SA Renewing Cleanser, offering solutions for a range of skin types and conditions.

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07. 01. Today entertainment reporter Brooke Boney. 02. The motto for CeraVe has always been less is more.

03. From left Lauren Phillips, Rachel McAdam, Brooke Boney and Dr Eleni Yiasemides.

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Dr Eleni Yiasemides. CeraVe ambassador Lauren Phillips. The #skinchat in action. The #SkinChat was held at Palms House, Vaucluse.

04. Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene, Rachel McAdam and Ricky Allen.

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OUT & ABOUT 01.

L’ORÉAL PARIS RIDES THE RETINOL WAVE

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L’Oréal Paris launched its first-ever pure retinol product, Revitalift Laser Pure Retinol Night Serum. Already validated for its effective formula and high concentration of retinol by an international board of dermatologists, the launch of the new generation Revitalift Laser Pure Retinol Night Serum also celebrated the appointment of Dr Burcu Kim as a local professional spokesperson in partnership with L’Oréal Paris. Dr Kim is a Sydney-based dermatologist and renowned specialist in medical, surgical and skincare management. She is also a Medical Officer at Prince of Wales Hospital in Randwick. TV personality, Lisa Wilkinson, hosted a media and celebrity event in Sydney to introduce the new retinol serum. Dr Kim, Poh Ling Yeow, the popular cook, artist and actress, and former ironwoman, Candice Warner, were part of a panel discussion on the benefits of retinol. The night serum is available in pharmacies, supermarkets and variety retailers for RRP $51.95. All images by Esteban La Tessa. 03.

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05. 01. TV personality Lisa Wilkinson hosted the event.

02. From left Dr Burcu Kim, Lisa Wilkinson, Poh Ling Yeow and Candice Warner.

03. The Revitalift Laser Pure Retinol Night Serum.

04. The event was held over lunch. 05. Former Miss Universe Australia Tegan Martin.

06. The popular cook, artist and actress Poh Ling Yeow.

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07. The panel discussion in action. 08. Madeline Cowe and Khadija Gbla.

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OUT & ABOUT

ELUCENT SKINCARE PROMOTES ‘NO BS’ CAMPAIGN Elucent Skincare launched their new campaign over a high tea at The Langham, Sydney, in conjunction with Chemist Warehouse. Owned by Ego Pharmaceuticals, Australian-owned and based in Melbourne, the company has led the way in the development, manufacture and marketing of innovative skincare products for more than 65 years. Elucent Skincare’s new campaign with the tagline, ‘No BS, Just Anti Ageing Science’, was promoted at the event, hosted by Jo Stanley, co-host The House of Wellness TV show and podcast. Dr Jane Oppenheim, Ego Pharmaceuticals Scientific & Operations Director, said the range was created for Australians by Australians. She said the products were formulated by combining innovative research with expert skincare science, using ingredients such as Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHAs), that helped to reduce the visible signs of ageing. Sydney Dermatologist Dr Eleni Yiasemides also spoke at the event, highlighting the importance of wearing SPF and avoiding prolonged sun exposure to reduce the risk of UVA and UVB damage to skin. All images by Esteban La Tessa.

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01. Jessica Casey, Mary Kechichian and Laura Lock from Ego Pharmaceuticals / Elucent with Dr Jane Oppenheim.

02. Host Jo Stanley at the event. 03. Dr Jane Oppenheim, Ego Pharmaceuticals

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Scientific & Operations Director.

04. Sydney Dermatologist Dr Eleni Yiasemides. 05. The new campaign was launched at The Langham, Sydney.

06. High tea at The Langham, Sydney. 07. Florence Fahmy. 08. Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene and Chemist Warehouse Group PR Manager Alexandra Bateman.

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OUT & ABOUT 01.

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA OPENS AUSTRALIAN FLAGSHIP BOUTIQUE Santa Maria Novella is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. Established by Dominican friars shortly after their arrival in Florence in 1221, the pharmacy used medicinal herbs grown in the monastic garden to make medications, balms and ointments for their convent’s small infirmary. Today, the pharmacy prepares its products in Liberty style facilities in Via Reginaldo Giuliani, three kilometres from the head office in northern Florence, using equipment which has been specifically designed and built to combine modern technology with ancient producing methods. The Santa Maria Novella Australian flagship boutique opened at The Intersection Paddington in Sydney. Offering not just the classic collection of products for which the brand is known, including liqueurs, colognes, hair care, oral hygiene, face and body care, soaps, wax products, room fragrances, ceramics, leather goods and a barber line, Santa Maria Novella Paddington will also welcome exclusive products to Australia for the very first time. Designed to reflect the spirit of the brand, the modern and refined store concept was crafted by Filippo Burresi. All images by Esteban La Tessa.

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03. 01. The store concept was crafted by Filippo Burresi.

02. Belle Style Director Steve Cordony. 03. Singer and songwriter Delta Goodrem at the opening.

04. Escape Digital Editor Rowena Ryan from and Katrina Israel from The Australian Travel + Luxury.

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05. Retail Beauty Editor Michelle Ruzzene and Agence De Parfum National Education Manager Michael Marzano.

06. James Want and Jack Slade from Boss Hunting.

07. Paloma Garcier. 08. Society jewellery Olivia Bond with eyebrow expert Kristin Fisher.

OUT & ABOUT 02.

01. 01. The event was held at MaxMediaLab headquarters. 02. Fermio’s lead product developer and co-founder Ai-Lien Chen addresses media.

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Fermio’s Head of Marketing and Communications Lucia Pan. Model Jayde Heiser at the event. TV personality Aisha Jade. Sunday Life Beauty Director Stephanie Darling and Gritty Pretty Beauty Writer Rose Garnett.

07. MaxMediaLab Senior Publicist Nora Shkreli hands out goody bags to guests.

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08. Retail Beauty Publisher Nicci Herrera at the event.

AUSTRALIAN WELLNESS COMPANY FERMIO LAUNCHES Fermio, the Australian wellness company specialising in nutritional fermentation, hosted intimate appointments with media and influencers at MaxMediaLab headquarters in Alexandria, Sydney. Ai-Lien Chen, Fermio’s lead product developer and co-founder, as well as Lucia Pan, Head of Marketing and Communications, talked about the importance of gut health and the brand’s unique process of triple-fermentation used across their products, including their Nutritional Cleanse product. They also took guests through a deep-dive of the unique properties and ingredients behind each formulation as well as Fermio’s mission to simplify health and wellness processes by offering products which can be easily adapted into everyone’s daily life for optimal wellness. Photos by Jack Henry. www.fermio.com.au 04.

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My Journey Growing up in the Southern Highlands of NSW, Erica Galea had a charmed childhood riding bikes, having secret hideouts in local bushland and swimming in creeks. The busy mother of two teens landed in a marketing career almost accidentally, but is thankful she did, having the opportunity to work with some incredible companies and people; including her current role as Marketing Manager with Chemcorp International, where with around 20 brands in the portfolio, no two days are ever quite the same. Michelle Ruzzene finds out more about this journey and the lessons along the way. WHAT’S ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN WHEN YOU BEGAN YOUR CAREER?

That creating boundaries is OK and a healthy thing to do. When I started working; particularly the early days of my marketing career, there was still a culture of burning the candle at both ends and I carried this through several roles. You took your cues from everyone around you and just did what they did. I’ll admit it was only after a particular incident working with a global company (I read a very toxic email late at night our time and spent the entire night being unable to sleep) that I actively started being firm about the creation of personal boundaries. Thankfully over the years I have had the pleasure of working for some amazing mentors, who by their own setting of boundaries, taught me just how important and healthy this is. There has been a shift in culture since I started in the workforce. There is a lot more research and education around workplace wellbeing. Fostering this really leads to a much more positive and productive workplace, so it’s always something I try to be mindful with my colleagues.

Erica Galea Marketing Manager at Chemcorp International WHAT DOES A TYPICAL WEEKDAY LOOK LIKE TO YOU?

I’m a super early bird. On weekday (and mostly weekend) mornings, my alarm goes off anywhere between 4:30 – 5:30 am. I always consider this part of the day my selfcare. Exercising in the morning is a great way to set up for the day, it leaves me energised and because I’ve done ‘my thing’ for the day, I’m ready to hand myself over to everyone else. I usually race to get home, eat a second breakfast, get ready and head to work, almost always with a school drop off and coffee pickup, on the way. Once I am in the door at work, I’m in the door. There are no slow days at Chemcorp International! With 20 brands in our portfolio, there is always something happening, and every day can be completely different. I work alongside a brand manager, two digital marketers and a creative team. We have hands across everything from product development to trade marketing, consumer advertising to ecommerce. One day we could be on a shoot, the next at a manufacturer premises product testing. We could be in the office pulling together retail review presentations and working on trade

I work alongside a brand manager, two digital marketers and a creative team. We have hands across everything from product development to trade marketing, consumer advertising to ecommerce. One day we could be on a shoot, the next at a manufacturer premises product testing... It’s an all-in and hands-on role. Which is what makes it so exciting. 78| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS YOU’VE HAD AT CHEMCORP?

There are so many. But from a marketing perspective it was bringing Sam & Nic Chapman of Real Techniques to Australia for Priceline. They were incredible women, and it was fantastic bringing makeup workshops to life with the Priceline team, as well as hosting media and influencers at events in Sydney and Melbourne. Other highlights have included working with our Creative Lead, Susanna Dale, to refresh own brands and seeing this deliver brand success. From a business perspective, being involved in the overall growth of the company is also a highlight. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CHALLENGES YOU’VE HAD AT CHEMCORP?

The biggest challenge I face is the desire to do too many things, and not having enough hours in the day or week to make them all happen. There really is nothing more motivating than being able to see opportunities and nothing more frustrating than when you can’t make them happen as fast as you’d like. As for many businesses, the impacts of Covid-19 globally have been challenging too. Thankfully, our business has continued to see strong results but getting stock, both in terms of manufacture and also shipping into Australia, continues to be a challenge.

resources are professional groups on LinkedIn, industry newsletters, podcasts, etc. There are always opportunities to learn and grow, it’s simply up to each of us to take them. WHO ARE THE THREE PEOPLE WHO HAVE BEEN THE MOST INFLUENTIAL TO YOU?

MY JOURNEY

marketing assets or developing a launch strategy for a new brand or product launch. It’s an all-in and hands-on role. Which is what makes it so exciting. I also work closely with our sales team, who have accounts across Australia’s leading beauty retailers and hold a position on the executive team; I love working for a company where I feel active in helping to develop and activate growth objectives.

It may be entirely clichéd, but I would have to start with my parents. Whilst I probably did not appreciate it at the time, they are the people who ultimately helped shape a lot of my life perspective through belief in me, support, and love. My kids would be the other most influential people in my life. Being a parent, and wanting to lead by example, influences me each day to be the best person I can be. In terms of my career, perhaps most influential person was an ex-boss who made some unfounded assessments of me not long after starting in a role. I remember leaving (in tears) and being ready to resign because he had made me feel so bad. But instead, I confronted him the following day with a solid case against what he had said and set out my expectations of how I expected to be treated. It was empowering to stand up for myself in that way. I think it gave me a new respect for myself. It was a big lesson. WHAT’S YOUR HERO BEAUTY PRODUCT?

1000HOUR Lash & Brow Dark Brown is a hero product for me. I love that I can quickly and easily touch up my brows at home. SheaMoisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Treatment Masque. My hairdresser asked what I was using my hair felt so good. Bathefex Epsom Salt (Active Recovery – Lemon Myrtle) – this is more wellness than beauty, but I feel more beautiful when I am looking after myself holistically.

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST ‘FAILURE’, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT?

Whilst working with Dyson, there was a culture that came from James Dyson, of not failing but finding ways not to do things again. This is a learning I try to remind myself of when the little things go wrong, whether for myself or someone else in the team or business, because inevitably they do. Fail fast, learn fast and fast forward. WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WANTING TO PURSUE A CAREER SIMILAR TO YOURS?

Just get started. Find people in your dream role and ask them to spend some time with you to give you guidance. People are willing to help other people, you just need to ask. Some voluntary work experience to build your experience, skills and showcase your willingness to learn. I still to this day remember hearing Mia Freeman talk about her start in magazines – it was inspiring (if you don’t know the story, be sure to look it up). And I think have an open mindset about starting at the bottom and doing your time. It’s actually a great way to become really all rounded. WHAT ARE THE BEST RESOURCES THAT HAVE HELPED YOU ALONG THE WAY?

The best resources have been people. I can’t recommend enough reaching out to people who are in similar roles or industries, or who are in roles and industries you aspire to be in and asking for some time to either discuss their journey or to potentially act as a mentor. A lot of professional bodies offer mentor programs. And with so much information available online, including sites like LinkedIn, it is easier than ever to find and connect with people. Other great RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |79

Beauty Sleep Essentials

Because sometimes getting a good night’s slumber is easier said than done. Neutrogena Bright Boost Overnight Recovery Gel Cream - www.neutrogena.com.au Raww USB Ultrasonic Aroma Diffuser - www.rawwcosmetics.com In Essence ie: Sleep Essential Oil Blend - www.inessence.com.au Australian NaturalCare Peaceful Sleep - https://a-n-c.com Arravite Night Skin Renew Collagen Sleep - www.arravite.com Filorga NCEF-Night Supreme Multi-Correction Night Mask - https://filorga.cosmax.com.au Palm Beach Sleep Essential Oil - https://palmbeachcollection.com.au Jurlique Lavender Hydrating Mist - www.jurlique.com Boost Lab Night Renewal Serum - https://boostlabco.com Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Sleeping Mask - www.mecca.com.au Finishing Touch Flawless Contour Rose Quartz Roller - https://finishingtouchflawless.com.au The Herb Farm Hydrating Overnight Face Mask - www.herbfarm.co.nz Homebodii Signature Candle - www.homebodii.com Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Eye Cream - www.elizabetharden.com.au Natio Rosewater Hydration Moisture Gel Sleeping Mask - www.natio.com.au Sugar Baby A-Firm-Ation Age Defying & Skin Recovery Mask - www.sugarbabybeauty.com.au Glammar Amethyst Gua Sha – https://amr.com.au

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Photo Credit: Brandee Meier www.brandeemeier.com.au

Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask - www.sephora.com.au Circa Oceanique Soy Candle - https://circa.com.au Avène Hydrance Hydrating Sleeping Mask - www.avene.com.au Elucent Even Tone Night Moisturiser - www.elucentskincare.com GO Healthy Cherry Sleep - https://gohealthy.com.au L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Pure Retinol Night Serum - www.lorealparis.com.au Rochway Beauty Sleep - www.rochway.com.au QV Face Nurturing Night Cream - www.qvskincare.com.au Juvena Master Caviar Night Cream – www.juvena.com.au My Clarins Re-Charge Relaxing Sleep Mask - www.clarins.com.au Dr. LeWinn’s Eternal Youth Jellyfish Collagen Hydrating Face Mask - www.drlewinns.com.au Slipsilk Sleep Mask - www.slip.com.au Olay Regenerist Ultra Rich Moisturizer – www.olay.com.au Skin Physics Dragon’s Blood Retinol Sleep - https://skinphysics.com.au Swisse Polypeptide Renewing Sleep Mask - https://swisse.com.au

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INFLUENCER

An eight year start up

Almira Armstrong

LUMIRA FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR It’s strange that retail industry often doesn’t really take notice of you until you are in a well-known retailer… Lumira is a luxury niche fragrance house based in Sydney, Australia. Founded in 2013 by creative director Almira Armstrong, Lumira designs artisanal scents for the home and the self. Lumira has been smashing open the department store doors with global distribution since 2014. Nicci Herrera chats with Almira on her distribution journey around the world before landing on the cosmetic floor at David Jones.

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WHY DID YOU CREATE LUMIRA?

I have always had a passion for fragrance and scent, understanding how people create perfumes that are so identifiable and distinctly associated with their brand. However, my own passion around this was really manifested in me once I started buying beautiful perfumes and occasionally making candles to burn at home. Post university, my life quickly became consumed with my career in PR and marketing, and travel – I spent quite a few years living and working abroad in London and New York. However, when I fell pregnant with my son, I had this very real desire to turn this ongoing passion around fragrance into a small business venture. My husband had visions of me selling my creations at the markets, but I formulated a business plan that took it beyond that and I really honed in on all aspects of this – from the fragrance design, to the packaging, to quality control, to price points.

INFLUENCER

Each and every part of the Lumira brand was considered, until eventually in 2013, I took it to market. I absolutely love the process of developing a new fragrance. My perfumer and I sit together and we discuss the direction I am thinking the new fragrance will take – inspiration, key notes, overall mood of the fragrance. We then start building it out. This process can take a month, or it can take twelve months. It’s a really varied process, but it’s one that is so important to the Lumira brand. WHICH DEPARTMENT STORE WAS THE FIRST TO TAKE ON YOUR BRAND? TELL US ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE?

Selfridges, London and then Barneys, New York. It was a dream to be noticed by these global department stores. Both took time to nurture and we ultimately won their hearts with our perfume storytelling and brand presence. WHAT MAKES YOUR PRODUCTS UNIQUE?

WHAT ARE YOUR TOP 3 TIPS FOR BREAKING INTO THE OVERSEAS MARKET?

Know your brand Know your audience Be patient and believe in yourself. HOW HAS YOUR THINKING ABOUT YOUR BRAND CHANGED SINCE COVID-19?

When retailers were forced to close, we were affected on a wholesale level immediately. This required us to analyse the business and make some tough decisions. However, with more and more people working from home, we were able to harness the opportunity with our end consumer and speak directly with them. We introduced ‘A Life With Scent’ on our Journal which provided customers a way to connect with the brand and also offer a sense of escape during this time. WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR GREATEST SUCCESS?

There have truly been so many. It can take more than 12 months to create one of our fragrances, so it’s always a wow moment when I have the completed scent in my hands. Seeing Lumira in some of the world’s finest retailers – including Selfridges in the UK, Bergdorf Goodman and Barney’s in New York and on Net-A-Porter – will always give me a thrill. But one of the moments I’m most proud of is our collaboration with the Royal Botanic Garden, Sydney, where we’re helping to raise funds to support the essential science and conservation work being done by Royal Botanic Gardens around the world. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST VALUABLE LEARNING IN YOUR CAREER?

Over the years, the importance of making decisions that not only solve the challenges I face today, but also those I am likely

to face in 6 or 12-months time. As manufacturers of luxury goods, the challenge of scaling the business to support growth, whilst maintaining strict quality standards and attention to detail is never ending! WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF BRAND CREATORS?

Aussie made

Lumira is unashamedly a luxury brand. Our reason for being is to help people immerse themselves in moments of blissful luxury. That applies to everything from the moment you slide into the bath with a candle on, to our packaging and product quality. It is also our guiding principle for everything we do in the future. Every brand contact point must immerse a consumer in moments of luxury, even if it’s the bus from the airport on a Lumira travel experience. Holding true to your brand values over time is an important key to success.

Follow your intuition, build resilience and have the ability to preserve. I think resilience is built over time and adopting a positive outlook will help overcome any future challenges business owners might be face. I surround myself with good people, I have a very uplifting team around me. I always refer back to my ‘WHY’ and instantly it reminds me why I do what I do. I love my job, and my passion for this industry and my brand keep me inspired daily! It’s simple: if you are passionate about something, then you have something valuable to offer an audience. There will never be a ‘right’ time to start putting your business out there - I think women tend to sit on their ideas because they don’t feel like they are ready. Perfectionism is something we all deal with to some degree; I would advise to just begin with what you have and grow from there. WHAT DO YOU DO FOR WORK LIFE BALANCE?

Being a busy mum and always on the go, I like to make sure I make time for myself and restoring my equilibrium. I like meditating in the morning, going for long walks or doing a workout with F45 to get my day started. www.atelierlumira.com

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4 3

THE DAVID JONES BEAUTY BUYERS

Secret Product Picks

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8 6

BUYERS LIST

David Jones was founded in 1838 by Mr David Jones, and is the oldest continuouslyoperating department store in the world still trading under its original name. Michelle Ruzzene catches up with the ultimate influencers – the David Jones Beauty Buyers – to find out what could be your next favourite product.

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BUYERS LIST

RACHEL DUFFY-PACKER GENERAL MANAGER – BEAUTY

1. Guerlain - Abeille Royal Eye Serum, $170. Bees… that is all. This lightweight serum has become my go-to treatment for under eye circles, puffy eyes, and fine lines. It absorbs beautifully and has a wonderful smell that feels luxurious both during and after application. I also love that Guerlain is so invested in the protection and conservation of bees, given how important bees are to the earth’s eco systems. 2. La Prairie - Platinum Rare Haute-Rejuvenation Cream, $1,465 - $2,270. My ‘splurge’ product – it’s honestly a miracle worker for my skin. It firms, evens, and increases skin glow both on application and from long term use. Truly a luxury self-care step. 3. La Prairie – Supreme Balm Cleanser, $240. This cleanser transforms from a cream to an oil consistency thanks to your natural body heat, and this makes it so simple to apply and use. It rinses off beautifully, and leaves my skin prepped and ready for the next step of my routine. 4. Ultraceuticals – Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF50 Hydrating, $88. Sun care is easily one of the most important skincare steps given how much UV can damage and prematurely age your skin. The beauty of this product is its perfect combination of SPF50 and moisturiser that leaves your skin feeling hydrated and not greasy. I never leave the house without this on, and my skin’s appearance reflects that day on day. WILL GILLARD JUNIOR BUYER – BODY & SOUL

5. Vida Glow – Natural Marine Collagen Original, $70. I was quite skeptical of the benefits when I first started taking collagen and thought it would be hard to work into my routine – boy was I wrong on both fronts. I add this to my smoothies, coffee, juice – you name it. I have noticed an improvement in my nail strength, hair texture, and skin – plus their new packaging makes it a must-have on my shelf to display. 6. In Essence – 360 Diffuser, $199.95. If lockdowns have taught me one thing, it’s that how your space smells can make or break your day. When In Essence launched their new 360 Diffuser last year, I was finally able to scent any room with minimal fuss and ensure it covered every corner. The fact that you can recharge and then carry it anywhere you want in your home has been an absolute game-changer. 7. Lano – Lanostick Minty, $18.95. Ever since switching to Lano two years ago, I have not suffered from chapped lips even in the relentlessly dry and windy Melbourne weather. This has also been a life-saver as an overnight lip treatment I put on right before I go to bed. I’ve personally always been a fan of stick style balms, so this was a no brainer for me. STEPHANIE O’REILLY BUYER – MAKEUP ARTIST BRANDS

8. Yves Saint Laurent - Tatouage Velvet Crème, $62. Of any make-up I could choose, it would always be lipstick. This lip is soft and creamy with a STRONG punch of colour. Not to mention how chic Yves Saint Laurent packaging looks in your purse. 9. MAC - Studio Radiance Face & Body Radiant Sheer Foundation, $55. For me this foundation truly broke a years-old habit of layering up with too heavy foundation. The lightweight 86| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

and natural finish provides enough coverage while really giving off a healthy glow. People always ask me what I’m wearing when I use it. 10. Napoleon Perdis - Auto Pilot Pre-Foundation Skin Primer, $59. Since the first time I tried it, this primer has become an ‘auto-pilot’ step in my make-up routine. It glides on smoothly on top of your moisturiser and quenches thirsty dehydrated skin. There is a noticeable difference in my make-up looking fresh for hours longer than without using the primer. KATE HEALY BUYER – DESIGNER BRANDS AND FRAGRANCE

11. Hermès - Rose Hermès Rosy Lip Enhancer, $100. This delicate balm is worth it for the divine packaging alone, but I love that it also has a sustainability tick for being refillable. 12. Chanel - No.5 EDP, $170 - $249. 100 years since it was first launched, No.5 remains a timeless, elegant, and feminine icon. Wearing No.5 makes me feel instantly put-together, while also reminding me of the women in my family who have worn it throughout my life – for me this is love in a bottle. 13. Dior - 3D Maximiser Mascara Serum Base, $58. No need for lash infills with this in my beauty stash. This can be used with your favourite mascara to create full volume lashes, with the bonus of active ingredients to nourish them at the same time. KATE STANSBERRY BUYER – NATIONAL BRANDS AND LUXURY SKINCARE

14. La Mer – The Concentrate, $285 - $790. My must-have to keep my skin feeling refreshed and protected from all the environmental factors that impact my skin’s barrier each day. I love how it feels on the skin, and makes for a luxurious addition to my routine. 15. Sisley – Velvet Sleeping Mask, $170. Sleep is key for so many things in your life, but this mask helps give the skincare side of it a fantastic boost. This has a beautiful texture and smell, and goes on with a velvety finish. Definitely a wonderful self-care moment, and lets me wake up with plump and fresh skin in the morning! 16. SK-II – Facial Treatment Essence, $109-$289. An iconic product for a very good reason. I love using this day and night to leave my skin feeling smooth and fresh before I apply my other skincare. A must-have for anyone wanting to balance redness, skin texture, or just up their skincare game. TANIA BALDASSARI BUYER – CONTEMPORARY SKINCARE AND SALON BRANDS

17. Emma Lewisham – Supernatural Anti-Ageing Peptide 72-Hour Crème, $135. Not only does this product help to fade hyperpigmentation, the serum itself is lightweight, smells great and absorbs easily to boost my skin’s natural glow. Plus, with a clean and sustainable ethos behind the brand, I feel even better using it. 18. Ella Baché – Intensive Extreme Regeneration Mask, Single Sheet, $29. Hyaluronic acid and aloe vera go to work to rehydrate and protect the skin. This mask is perfect for when my skin needs an instant pick-me-up especially in the winter months. 19. Dermalogica – Powerbright Dark Spot Serum, $63. Not only does this product help to fade hyperpigmentation, the serum itself is lightweight, smells great and absorbs easily to boost my skin’s natural glow.

BUSINESS

Learnings for the beauty industry amidst our nation’s ongoing pandemic recovery Tracey Raso, Revlon & Elizabeth Arden Regional Managing Director, Pacific and Chair of Accord Australasia, reflects on the past year. While the last year can only be described as a tumultuous and often emotional rollercoaster ride for everyone, it is a relief and blessing that our nation has weathered the pandemic better than most. Thanks to a steady and cautious approach to managing the risks of Covid-19 infection spread combined with appropriate but unprecedented levels of fiscal stimulus, the Australian economy is rebounding. But we are still a long way from full economic recovery and the virus threat will remain a disrupting and pervasive fact of life for some years to come. So, it is important to reflect on some key lessons learnt in dealing with the many challenges of the last year. For many beauty and prestige companies, product demand virtually fell off a cliff. This meant finding ways to stay afloat to protect our businesses. So, early lessons were about adaptability, as we shifted to new ways of working and did our best to navigate heavily disrupted supply chains to get our products to our customers. And as the pandemic progressed, we learnt much about the importance of persistence and resilience as we faced the daily ups and downs of a critically evolving situation. Amongst all this turmoil, we learnt another lesson—the power and importance of reliable and timely information. This is one area where membership of Accord came to the fore. From the start of the pandemic, the Accord team shifted its priorities to validating and then disseminating to members readily digestible alerts of the most critical information for their businesses. And this approach of more regular and timely industry briefs is now embedded into the very way Accord operates. As experts dig deeper to analyse other learnings arising from the pandemic, one specific finding stands out for me. This is the growth and importance of trust, as measured by the latest edition of the Edelman Trust Barometer. Published in February 2021, the Trust Barometer highlights a pleasing rebound in public trust overall, with Australia leading the world in trust gains over 2020. Most welcome is the finding of a surge in public trust for the business sector: business is now more

trusted than both government and NGOs, according to this latest survey. Some may feel this an astonishing result. But those of us in this industry know otherwise. Both collectively via Accord and at a company level, our businesses have been working tirelessly to meet community expectations about our products and services, and to progress environmental sustainability in tangible ways. Accord has led the way to promote stewardship approaches across the industry, foster compliance with regulations and codes and increase industry and consumer understanding for safe, sustainable product use via our many educational websites. I will call out three recent highlights. We developed and launched the Voluntary Industry Code to Support the Australian Ban on Testing Cosmetics on Animals, in collaboration with the federal Health Department and other key stakeholders such as RSPCA Australia. We delivered the successful voluntary phase-out of solid plastic microbeads in rinse-off personal care and cosmetic products via BeadRecede. We undertook detailed surveys across the industry on plastics and packaging waste to help identify opportunities for better waste management and improved sustainability. As we move into recovery, and as the vaccination rate for the Australian and global population increases, it is hoped that the lessons from the last year can help build a brighter future. I thank all Accord Members and supporters of our industry for their support and commitment to standing united as we move forward into the challenges ahead.

ABOUT ACCORD

Accord Australasia is the peak body representing companies operating in the cosmetic, fragrance, personal care and toiletries sector – from multinationals to small Australian-owned businesses, importers to local manufacturers. www.accord.asn.au

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Beauty

SPRING CLEAN As we slowly come out of the winter months and search for brighter days in Spring from September 1, this is the perfect time to re-evaluate our beauty products in terms of textures, finishes and general application.

Our skin can get so dry in winter with internal heating, hot showers and that cold chill in the air, this means often our skincare and foundation formulas may have altered in winter to be slightly richer to balance the wintery dry skin blues. It’s important that we look at what our skin tells us season to season, especially in Spring, as we don’t want to keep using these new textures when the weather starts to warm up to avoid any unnecessary build up of oils which can clog pores or create unwanted shine. HOW OFTEN CAN MY PRODUCTS LAST?

We often do buy products seasonally, which can be annoying if they last longer than the season itself, but most products at the back show a shelf-life symbol – it looks like a product jar with the lid open, and the number displayed gives you the shelf life once opened. Most are at least 12 months (non-active liquids), giving you two seasons worth of use, but it could be six months for high 88| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

active skincare, organic formulas and definitely sunscreens, whereas powder formulations and some other makeup items are more towards 24 months. If unopened and stored in a cool, dry and not in direct sunlight, most always last at least 24 months. WHAT TO SPRING CLEAN?

Skincare Skincare is a great start, so many products can be adjusted to make sure they are used correctly according to the season. For example, Retinol is a great night product for re-texturising our skin, especially in winter, as you are less likely to gain major sun exposure during the days being colder, as Retinol can make the skin sun sensitive. Whereas vitamin C is great all year round, but as it helps prevent and fade dark spots, plus brighten the skin, it’s a great one to introduce through the warmer months with higher sun exposure – small things to think about. Your general moisture intake should match what your skin is telling you at the time of application. You may have upped the nourishment and gone richer in textures during winter, maybe added an oil or moved to a cream cleanser to feel more comfort on wintery dry skin, so just

make sure the seasonal choices you made in winter are still eligible when the weather warms up. Your moisture content could go from oil base to water, cream to foaming cleansers and perhaps dab the oil into your skin only at night once or twice a week, rather than three of four times. These simple alterations can make all the difference to gain that perfect balance during different seasons. Everything in beauty is about balance. Use and apply to what your skin actually needs, rather than being on auto-pilot and just using something because you have for a long time. Makeup Going from winter to spring in this category is more skin prep and complexion related, as everything you apply underneath, say, foundation, will affect the end and lasting result If skincare is too rich, makeup will not bond correctly and will either slide off or move into expression lines with a buildup of too much residue to hold anything in place. But then in warmer months, if you don’t prep enough with hydration/moisture, your foundation gets sucked in, eaten by your skin, as it’s so thirsty for any moisture it can

INFLUENCER

Use and apply to what your skin actually needs, rather than being on auto-pilot and just using something because you have for a long time.

find. Once again, all about finding that perfect moisture balance. Once your skin prep is applied, skin should not have excess residue, look fresh and plump, feel cool and a little bounce off your fingertip to touch. That’s when you know your foundation will be attracted to your skin and will bond perfectly giving wear longevity. As for trends with makeup, spring is a super fresh season and balmy/gloss lips with metallic lids are still a big hit, as most aim to look fresh and bright and not too harsh and over made up. For many, Covid-19 forces us to get back in touch with overall skin health and glow, and our makeup trends have followed suit. One product type I am loving for this new season(s) ahead is a blurring primer. So many brands have one, and it is there to smooth and re-texture skin after skincare, before foundation, giving skin a blur effect, reducing pore size and shine. This the perfect way to balance the central areas of the face when wearing gloss or metallics, as it controls glow in areas applied – a must for photography. BEAUTY SPRING CLEAN VS SALES?

It’s so easy to become complacent with a routine - people are on auto-pilot and sometimes need someone just to ask the question, “Is what you are using still delivering all the results you are after?” Often, you’ll find it’s a no and what a perfect opportunity to suggest a ‘Beauty Spring Clean!’ Listen to their concerns and prescribe accordingly.

By Michael Brown @mbrown_beauty www.michaelbrownbeauty.com.au RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021 |89

A Content Creator’s

Confession

What does it take to become a good content creator? Influencer Icy Ling shares her top tricks and tips to social media success. By @icybutterfly What is my life like? I have three serious relationships: with my phone, with my laptop and with my iPad. Do I enjoy my life? Hell yeah. Let’s talk about being a content creator. It’s time for me to give beginners some personal tips on how to drive awareness, in order to get more followers, faster. Before jumping into the exciting part, I also want you to think about going into this industry. Is it right for you? How can you master it? I am an introvert. I need my own time. Content creation does bring a perfect balance. Especially after attending an event with either clients or friends. Don’t get me

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wrong, I love going to events. They are the best place for me to connect with people, allowing the fastest way to absorb product knowledge. I am able to experience things

You will not last if you keep pretending to be someone else or copying others on social media.

I have never done before and probably wouldn’t have another opportunity to re-experience. It’s nice to get dressed up and showcase my makeup skills. Then I get home, order some late-night food deliveries, and start my daily self-reflection. I swear to God that is the harshest time I give to myself: My thoughts start running wild: ‘Geez, why did I say that to the stranger I just met? I forgot to take a selfie with this or that influencer. Gosh someone left a lipstick mark on my cheek! My hair isn’t perfect on that group shot! Why didn’t I stand straight?’ But when I finally get my hands on creating the content, things go back to being peaceful. And I stop blaming myself, and focus on creativity. Creativity calms me down, and shifts my attention away from difficult things. Hence why during every lockdown, I am never anxious or bored. I just switch on to work-mode. Being a creative soul is still not enough if you would like to make a living on social media. You need to have your own system, and run your account strategically. My tips are: 1. Know your audience - You don’t have to make everyone like you, but you do have to know who likes you. Age group and gender? Where are they from? What type of content boosts likes, mention and shares? Take good care of your existing followers, make sure they don’t walk away from you. Then work on getting more people like them to like you. If you are expecting potential commercial partnerships, you have to pay close attention to your audience’s demographic, to ensure they meet your clients’ requirements too. 2. O ne clear message at a time - Don’t confuse viewers. You cannot fit everything in one feed. Your content should be sharp and grab their attention straight away. Additional thoughts? Why not keep it to another post or create an episode? 3. Put yourself in other people’s shoes. What do people expect to learn from you? Is your work educational or helpful – are they valuable to viewers? Will

INFLUENCER

this content make people expect to see more updates from you? Are you being responsible on what you are posting? Will you create controversial topics? Are they offensive? Will this content make people stop following you? 4. Consistency is very important. How would I make you feel if I kept changing topics? You want people to refer to you as the makeup guru, the person who actually reviews each product before she posts about it. You want to be known as the fragrance king or a goddess of #OOTD (Outfit of the Day). But nobody will actually follow you if you do everything. Just show the best part of yourself. Start from there - it will be good enough. 5. I n addition to that, you need to give people something to remember you by. It should be a unique point that only you can do and is hard to mimic, so it will stay in the viewer’s head. It takes time to find your memorising point of difference. Once you’ve got it, your followers will ask for more. There you go, a new icon is born. 6. Measurement. How many reaches does your post get? Are you reaching out to more people each post? You can also check when your peak engagement time is. Delivering your post at that time will help you. Some posts will get you a higher reach. Keep reproducing a similar type of content. I know getting more followers make you happy, but is your social media growing healthily? Instead of checking how many new followers you get every week, I suggest you calculate how fast it took you to get the same amount of last week’s new followers. If you are slowing down, you should review your content. 7. Awareness - Once you are reaching a consistent growth, you should also pay attention to brand awareness. Getting more mentions and shares will definitely help you. After you have got a system of running your social media channel, you will soon learn to tick these boxes much faster. But before you reach that point, always keep these in mind. There are a lot of tips I have just given, but I also want to share one more thing with you – be yourself. You will not last if you keep pretending to be someone else or copying others on social media. A content creator needs to bring out something that is self-generated, shows your good quality or strength, and brings good value to others. But most importantly, be genuine. Good luck!

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BRAND NEWS

Lara Worthington announced as Swisse Beauty Ambassador Australian entrepreneur, mother, and international model Lara Worthington has been named as a Swisse Beauty Ambassador. Lara said she was “excited to be partnering with Swisse because the brand values and ethos with regards to health, happiness and beauty from within align with my own”. Nick Mann, Managing Director for Swisse ANZ, said Lara was synonymous with wellness and beauty products which made her a perfect partner for Swisse. “As a busy working mum of three boys, she is an aspirational face in the beauty and wellness space and someone who people look to for a holistic perspective to living a healthy life,” he said. www.swisse.com.au

The Skills partners with Adore Beauty The Skills is a relatively new kid on the block as one of the first Australian-owned and made dedicated men’s cosmeceutical skincare brand. Online beauty retailer Adore Beauty is targeting men and the partners who shop for them by partnering with The Skills. Mia Scundi, Adore Beauty Skincare Category Manager, said: “The Skills philosophy represents a simple, yet highly active range of products that are both unintimidating and accessible, specifically for the men in our lives. The once-prominent stigma associated with the concept of ‘beauty for men’ is steadily being re-imagined as an opportunity for men to consider their skin health as a regular part of their daily lives.” www.adorebeauty.com.au/the-skills.html

Clarins launch their first full range for sensitive skin: Calm-Essentiel Clarins’ has launched its first official skin care range dedicated to sensitive skin, Calm-Essentiel. The range was formulated to soothe, correct, and restore sensitive skin, especially when it is irritated by seasonal changes, face masks or general tightness and discomfort. The range contains three gentle formulas - Calm-Essentiel Soothing Emulsion, Calm-Essentiel Redness Corrective Gel and Calm-Essentiel Restoring Treatment Oil - full of natural goodness. The Calm-Essentiel products are designed not to be used daily, rather utilised in those moments of flare ups. www.clarins.com.au 92| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

BRAND NEWS

Compagnie de Provence launches Velvet Seaweed collection Sustainable French lifestyle brand Compagnie de Provence has launched their latest sustainable collection – Velvet Seaweed. Featuring locally sourced efficient ingredients including ultrahydrating seaweed and botanical oils, the range heroes 97% natural origin ingredients across a Liquid Marseille Soap; Body Cream; Hand Cream; and Sorbet Cream. The Velvet Seaweed collection is available from www.libertineparfumerie.com.au

ghd unveils limited edition collection for breast cancer awareness Having already raised over $20million globally, ghd have launched their 17th annual limited edition pink collection and action orientated campaign ‘Take Control Now’ in support of breast cancer. Launched in August, each tool in the pink collection has been re-designed to feature the Take Control Now message, so that every single month you remember to check your breasts and remind your loved ones to do the same. The collection includes the ghd platinum+ styler, ghd gold styler and ghd helios professional hairdryer in a beautiful rose pink tone with metallic pink accents and featuring the central campaign message. In addition to this, $20 from every pink limited-edition purchase goes to National Breast Cancer Foundation. www.ghdhair.com/au

Cult makeup brand Il Makiage launches in Australia Il Makiage, the fastest-growing beauty brand in the US, spruiks its wares with slogans such as – “Minimalism is dead”, “Sorry, I don’t speak low maintenance” and “I’ll tell you when you’ve had enough”. It was originally launched in New York in 1972 by noted makeup artist, Ilana Harkavi. A new era dawned when brother-andsister entrepreneurs, Oran Holtzman and Shiran Holtzman-Erel, purchased the brand. Building on its US success, Il Makiage launched in the UK in May 2020 and Germany in November 2020. Following its incredible success in the UK and Germany in 2020, Australia had to be next on the list, says Oran Holtzman, co-founder and CEO of Il Makiage. www.ilmakiage.com/au/

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BRAND NEWS

Groin shaving gold Good news for those men ‘Down Under’ - Manscaped has launched The Lawn Mower 4.0 below-the-waist trimmer and The Ultra Smooth Package groin shaving system in Australia. Founded in 2016, San Diego, California-based Manscaped is the global leader in men’s grooming and hygiene below-the-waist, trusted by more than two million men worldwide. The product range includes only the best tools, formulations, and accessories for a simple and effective male grooming routine. Also in the range is the Crop Preserver, Crop Reviver, The Shears 2.0 and The Weed Whacker. Now available at Hairhouse. www.hairhouse.com.au

Professor Curl to the rescue Global sustainable beauty pioneer Ethique has released two brand new, concentrated bars scientifically formulated for wavy, curly and coily hair: Professor Curl solid shampoo and Curliosity solid conditioner and co-wash. Developed in line with the Curly Girl Method, the unique power-packed duo offers a carefully curated blend of ingredients proven to protect and enhance curls. The bars are 100% plastic-free, cruelty-free, vegan, palm-oil free, sustainably sourced and ethically traded. They’re also packaged in 100% certified home-compostable materials which can simply be popped into home compost bins or gardens to return nutrients to the earth. https://ethiqueworld.com

Zero plastic, anywhere No tubs, no lids, no seals, no nothing. The idea behind revolutionary makeup brand Flavedo and Albedo is pretty simple. The founders behind the new Australian beauty brand – Emily Perrett, Aleks Allen and Toby Norris - love makeup (Tony, not so much), but are completely freaked out by the volume of plastic packaging produced by the beauty industry (76.8 billion plastic packaging units a year). The devastating part is that most of those units aren’t or can’t be recycled. They’ve spent countless hours figuring out how top get high performance formulations into sustainable and completely recyclable packaging. They use a lot of aluminium (because it actually gets recycled and is light on emissions) as well as a little glass and cork. The result? Vibrant, wearable, high performance makeup. With plastic free packaging. https://flavedoandalbedo.com 94| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

BRAND NEWS

Scent of seduction Hypnotic and sophisticated, Supergloss by Costume National is the scent of seduction. The perfumer behind this fragrance is Dominique Ropio, who has worked for fragrance brands including Christian Dior, Thierry Mugler, Lancôme, Givenchy, Frédéric Malle, Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne and the Body Shop. This Amber Floral fragrance for women has top notes of Red Fruits, Orange Blossom and Lily-of-the-Valley; middle notes of Rose, Benzoin and Osmanthus and base notes of Patchouli, Vetiver and Cedar. The original red colour of the essence meets the fuchsia pink of its feminine soul and triggers an explosion of seduction and charm. Beauty is imprinted in the iconic Costume National Scents bottle, a glass reproduction of Ennio Capasa’s sculpture inspired by the human figure. https://agencedeparfum.com.au

Cult product reimagined For the fourth consecutive year, Sisley is honouring its awardwinning Ecological Compound with a Limited Edition reimagined through the enchanting eyes of Polish artist and painter Elzbieta Radziwill. This year it is Asia that is portrayed in all its delicacy and vibrancy on the glass bottle. She paints a world bordered by a first of red and blue seaweed through which fish drift, like lucky charms. Carried by the current they weave in and out of mysterious trees, where all the world’s nature meets. Ecological Compound is an essential revitalising, rebalancing and moistening skin care product. Launched in 1980, it has remained a best seller ever since, achieving a cult following amongst both men and women globally, with one product sold every 45 seconds. www.sisley-paris.com

Glow from the inside out Peppy Co are officially launching their brand new Vitamin C Serum and Skin Probiotics - to help you glow from the inside out. Known for having Australia’s #1 selling LED Light Mask, Peppy Co is excited to expand their range to include their two new innovative products. The Peppy Co C3 Vitamin C Serum (pictured) is designed to add skin luminosity and give skin a brighter and more even complexion - packed with Vitamin C. Made in Australia, it contains three sources of vitamin and is fragrance free and suitable for sensitive skin. Meanwhile, Skin Probiotics is made high-potency formula is designed to help improve digestion, increase metabolism, build immunity and boost energy, while regulating sebum levels, balancing gut microbiome and detoxifying skin cells. Mia Plakalo, Co-Founder and CEO of Peppy Co, says “our new products are reflective of our innovative and holistic approach to skincare as well as our commitment to offer Australian made quality products”. https://peppyco.com

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BEAUTY & THE BEST

Spring makeup TRENDS

Retail Beauty asked the Beauty Advisors: “What are the Spring 2021 makeup trends?”

While wearing face masks is still very much the norm for Spring 2021, we can still stay safe while remaining stylish. We find out the top makeup trends you’re about to see everywhere.

Solmaz Khodabandeh Sisley Paris ROLE: NSW Sales Coach City: N/A It’s all about the ‘makeup with no makeup’ effect. The trend for natural beauty is bigger than ever – it’s about enhancing the skin’s appearance and creating skin that’s luminous and beautified. No matter what the current trend is, high on anyone’s wish list is skin with a flawless appearance. Skin that is hydrated, plumped up and glowing with vitality and radiance is always in. Makeup that reveals the true YOU is something that Sisley customers ask for. They cherish their natural beauty and want to preserve and enhance it with natural ingredients and the power of effective plant extracts. To combine the benefits of a skin care treatment with all the fun of playing with make-up colours, Sisley is launching an innovative new extension to the range, Phyto-Teint Nude. It’s a water-infused, second skin foundation for a natural, bare skin finish, that enhances the complexion with skincare- infused ingredients. It provides an ultra-natural, even complexion with a sheer, subtle satin finish that lasts all day. Phyto -Teint Nude instantly hydrates and plumps up the skin and day after day, and improves the skin’s energy and radiance. 96| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2021

Marie Lattouf Clinique Store: Myer City City: Sydney, NSW The makeup trends for Spring 2021 is going to be all about the eyes. With most people wearing masks while out and about, we are seeing a strong focus on eyes when it comes to makeup. It’s time to get excited about using colour again with your face as your canvas. For 2021, vibrant colours and nostalgia are two major themes. Bold eyeshadow colours are big in 2021 - think every colour of the rainbow. This year, sharp liner is going strong, whether it’s classic cat eye or a 60’s inspired negative space or graphic liner. If you want to ease into the trend, stick with a classic cat eye, but swap black for a bold colour. Complement this trend with statement lips and geo lift brow that is full and fluffy.

Stevie Cocking The Pharmacy Guild of Australia ROLE: Workplace Trainer/Assessor City : Queensland Branch The biggest makeup trend for Spring 2021 is all about the eyes. Since face masks have become such a bit part of our lives, why not make the eyes pop this Spring? Eyeshadow looks will only get brighter and more extravagant as the temperature rises. What better way to lean into the season’s vibrant colours than by focusing your makeup looks on the top half of your face? A nice orange eyeshadow is bright and flattering on so many skin tones. Then tap a tiny bit of shimmery pigment on your inner corners to brighten up the look even further. Pair it with a lash lift, which is an accessible way to have your lashes feeling long and beautiful with minimum effort. It’s all about the eyes this Spring!

OCEA MCKENZIE

By Michelle Ruzzene

INFLUENCER

Have you met...

Ocea McKenzie, known as @glamphetamine on social media, started out as a hairdresser in a small country town. Today, the MUA extraordinaire is the Education Manager for Mac & Bobbi Brown ANZ. The self-confessed beauty junkie – who is obsessed with UFOs – shares the products she can’t live without. HOW DID YOU GET INTO BEAUTY?

ADVICE FOR THOSE STARTING OUT IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

I started out as a hairdresser in a small country town and entered into the world of makeup as a beauty consultant at a Myer Counter in South Australia 17 years ago. During my beauty career I have been blessed to travel the globe, work with iconic makeup artists, and celebrities , fashion weeks and teach so many beautiful aspiring makeup artists about makeup. WHAT’S YOUR CURRENT ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES?

Pay attention to trends, put yourself in the customer’s shoes and have fun. The beauty industry is always changing and I think that is so exciting. HOW DO YOU REMAIN PASSIONATE ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

Being a huge beauty junkie myself, I am hugely passionate about the industry. I love trying new products, I’m hugely interested in sustainability, ingredients and packaging so I am always looking at these things.

01.

As Education Manager for Mac & Bobbi Brown ANZ, my responsibilities are devising, overseeing and executing the educational strategy in both the Australian and New Zealand markets. I focus on product knowledge and artistry, while supporting marketing initiatives and creating brand content.

IF YOU WEREN’T IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY, WHERE WOULD WE FIND YOU?

You would find me either working in natural medicine, as a ufologist (UFO researcher) or with animals.

FAVOURITE TOWN WHEN TRAVELLING ON THE ROAD (WHEN WE CAN TRAVEL)?

I love road trips – I love the country side, and I love travelling through small towns trying all the local bakeries I can find. I have to say Port Elliot is a beautiful little town in South Australia with gorgeous beaches and the best bakery in town.

WHO IS YOUR BEAUTY ICON?

Gwen Stefani is my beauty icon. I love every era of Gwen – she is just a stand out for me. 02.

WHAT IS YOUR GO –TO BEAUTY LOOK FOR SPRING?

I love a youthful, glowy look so you will find me with a sheer wash of foundation, preferably Mac Studio Radiance Face & Body Foundation, a cream blush, and highlighter.

WHAT IS YOUR LIFE MOTTO?

Be yourself – everyone else is taken. It costs nothing to be kind.

WHAT PRODUCT COULDN’T YOU LIVE WITHOUT?

MAC Fix+ Magic Radiance – it’s like Botox in a bottle for me. After a few spritzes it feels like you’ve had a facial.

BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU HAVE RECEIVED?

Don’t stress about the future – it hasn’t happened yet. Meditate.

WHAT’S THE BIGGEST MAKEUP FAUX PAS YOU SEE PEOPLE MAKE?

FAVE PLAYLIST OR PODCAST?

I LOVE music and podcasts so this is hard. All my current playlists on Spotify I adore. A good grunge or metal playlist gets me going but I equally love rap, soul – you name it. Being someone who questions anything mainstream, I love listening to any podcasts about UFOs, remote viewing, paranormal activity or hidden history. One of my favourite investigative reporters is Linda Moulton Howe from Earthfiles.

03. 01. Ocea is obsessed with UFOs.

02. Gwen Stefani is Ocea’s

Thinking that they desperately need a primer to make foundation last. This is just one component. Skincare and choosing the right foundation for skin type is incredibly important in helping achieve this. Primer will ultimately support these things.

beauty icon.

03. Ocea can’t live without MAC Fix+ Magic Radiance.

YOUR ONE PIECE OF BEAUTY ADVICE?

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Brand

index

1000Hour, 7 https://1000hour.com.au

ANC, Front & back cover, 10-11 https://a-n-c.com Avène, IFC, 3 www.avene.com.au AvoBaby, 33 https://avobaby.com.au Bathefex, 9 www.bathefex.com.au Boost Lab, 44-45 https://boostlabco.com DermaGen, 19-21 https://dermagen.net.au EcoTools, IBC https://ecotools.com.au Elizabeth Arden, 12-13 www.elizabetharden.com.au Fermio, 27-29 www.fermio.com.au Klorane, 5 www.klorane.com LGFB, 18 https://lgfb.org.au LGFB Dream Ball, 26 https://lookgoodfeelbetter.org/ dreamball Rapid Loss, 37 https://rapidwellness.com.au Weleda, 52-53 www.weleda.com.au

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BEAUTIFUL INSIDE & OUT

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