Retail Beauty 77 Spring 2023

Page 64

Adapting SKINCARE

MEETING EVOLVING CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS

Best-Kept GEMS

ADORE BEAUTY BUYERS’ SECRET PRODUCT PICKS

BA BREAKTHROUGH

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE KNOW-HOW

DELTA GOODREM NEW Revlon Illuminance™ Skin-Caring Foundation 77 SPRING 2023

The smell of A

s we bid farewell to the cool grasp of winter and warmly welcome the allure of spring, it is with great excitement that I present the latest edition of Retail Beauty.

You’ll undoubtedly notice an Australian icon gracing our cover this issue – the incredible Delta Goodrem. As Revlon’s first-ever Australian brand ambassador, Delta exemplifies a global cast of remarkable women who live life on their own terms. Her multifaceted journey celebrates bold living with purpose, and we’re honoured to spotlight her and the brand’s latest foundation launch, new Illuminance Skin-Caring Foundation, which represents the next generation in makeup for Revlon.

Within these pages, I had the privilege of conversing with some businesswomen who seamlessly juggle motherhood with their professional endeavours.

One such woman is Bonnie Gillies, a seasoned makeup artist I’ve known for years. She’s embarked on a journey to create her own makeup line, Basics By B, while thriving as a devoted mother and business owner. Committed to Australian ownership, vegan principles, and cruelty-free ethics, her story unfolds on page 64.

Another exceptional entrepreneur is Stacey Hollands, founder of Lust Minerals and a mother of two. Driven by her vision of harnessing the potent capabilities of mineral makeup and natural skincare, Stacey’s story and mission come to life on page 46.

The significance of beauty awards within the industry cannot be overstated. These accolades serve as pillars for acknowledging, celebrating, and elevating exceptional products. They forge a foundation of consumer trust and catalyse innovation, propelling the beauty sector to new pinnacles of excellence. This issue, we delve into recent highlights, including the esteemed Priceline, David Jones, and Mecca Beauty Awards, shedding light on the products that have captured consumers’ hearts.

Additionally, I had the privilege of attending the bi-annual Sephora Beauty Showcase, an unveiling ground for new and innovative brands and products. In this issue, we proudly present the winners of the prestigious Fragrance Foundation Awards, often dubbed the Oscars of the Fragrance world. Our collaboration with Brandee Meire for this shoot on page 52 was so much fun.

Of course, the timeless allure of Barbie continues to cast its spell on the beauty world, which beckoned us to indulge in a captivating Barbie-themed photoshoot on page 32.

In anticipation of Father’s Day, we chatted to the always enlightening with Michael Marzano, Agence De Parfum National Education Manager. His expertise on navigating the retail whirlwind and selecting the perfect fragrance is shared, underscoring a tradition that’s gaining prominence alongside occasions like Mother’s Day and the forthcoming Christmas season.

I also had the privilege of conversing with Anthony Pecora, General Manager at Ultra Beauty, an opulent haven within select Chemist Warehouse outlets. His journey in the beauty industry graces page 28 with insights that resonate among anyone who has ever worked in retail.

Looking forward, I’m eagerly anticipating the upcoming Pharmacy Connect event, a stage where the rising stars of the pharmacy realm shine. Pharmacy assistants, indispensable pillars of the healthcare team, shoulder the responsibilities of patient care, medication safety, and staying attuned to the ever-evolving beauty landscape. I’m excited to witness who will claim the prestigious title of Pharmacy Assistant of the Year Award 2023.

Another event that stands on the horizon is the second edition of Cosmoprof CBE Asean Bangkok. My experience at a previous Cosmoprof event in Hong Kong in 2017 left me awestruck by the grandeur and significance of this global beauty extravaganza. It serves as a dynamic platform for fostering connections and unveiling innovative products and solutions.

In the weeks and months ahead, I’m thrilled to be able to share the top trends with you showcased on this international platform.

retail_beauty_ retail_beauty_ RetailBeautyMagazine retail-beauty EDITOR’S LETTER
Spring 4| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023
“The significance of beauty awards within the industry cannot be overstated.”

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Embracing the flourishing ‘skinification’ trend in Australia, Revlon’s innovative Illuminance Skin-Caring Foundation goes beyond the ordinary. Consumers can expect a luminous complexion with medium, customisable coverage that leaves the skin with a radiant glow that lasts throughout the day. Enriched with a potent blend of skincare elements, including 5% plant-derived squalane to seal in moisture, hyaluronic acid to amplify hydration, and botanical antioxidants to shield against aging indicators, Revlon’s Illuminance Skin-Caring Foundation delivers not only immediate but also enduring skin advantages.

CONTACT DETAILS

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Craig Hawtin-Butcher

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Michelle Ruzzene

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issue 77
10 COVER STORY Ace of Base - Illuminance - The Next Generation of Makeup for Revlon 12 INDUSTRY NEWS Latest local and international news 20 AOL (AUSTRALIAN ORGANIC LIMITED) Building Trust in Organic Skincare 22 TRENDS 5 skincare industry trends your brand needs to know 24 CONFERENCE Pharmacy Connect and Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2023 28 MY JOURNEY Anthony Pecora, General Manager, Ultra Beauty 30 BUSINESS Allies of Skin 32 PHOTOSHOOT Barbiecore 34 BUSINESS Inventory management 36 INTERVIEW Point Retail 38 TRENDS Fresh spring looks straight from the Runnway 40 FEATURE Skincare 44 5 MINUTES WITH Francesca Chung 46 FEMALE FOUNDER Lust Minerals 48 OPINION Insights from a Makeup Chair 52 PHOTOSHOOT Oscars of Fragrance 54 FRAGRANCE Who is Elijah? 56 FRAGRANCE Expert Tips for Father’s Day 58 AUSSIE MADE Dermal Therapy 60 PHOTOSHOOT Men’s Essentials 62 BUYERS LIST Adore Beauty 64 HAVE YOU MET? Bonnie Gillies 66 INFLUENCER Michael Brown 68 BEAUTY ADVICE Product Knowledge 70 INFLUENCER Icy Ling 72 OUT & ABOUT 80 BRAND NEWS 6| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 RETAILBEAUTYMAGAZINE @RETAIL_BEAUTY

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Contributors

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

BUSINESS FEATURES

ELISABETH KING

Winner of the beautydirectory Star Award for Outstanding Contribution to Beauty Journalism 2012, Elisabeth is one of Australia’s leading lifestyle and business journalists and contributes regularly to newspapers and magazines in Australia and the UK. She has an economics honours degree from University College London and is a three-time winner of the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries and Fragrance Association) annual beauty writing award on ‘The Business of Beauty’, and has also won a CTFA award for writing about men’s grooming. In November 2001, Elisabeth co-wrote the best-selling book Secrets and Lies - All You Ever Wanted to Know About Beauty

JO-ANNE HUI-MILLER

Back in 1993, when liquid foundation and matte brown lipstick were all the rage, Jo entered a Dolly competition to score a haul of Covergirl make-up – and won! It was one of the best days of her life. She had zero make-up skills and all the products were completely wrong for her, but she slapped it on her face anyway and took pleasure in showing it off to her best mate at a sleepover party that weekend. Now she’s content and insights director at retail strategy agency, The General Store, which helps brands find solutions from store design and brand ID to strategy and advertising. Prior to that, Jo led a 15-year-career in journalism and was previously managing editor for industry publication, Inside Retail Asia-Pacific

ICY LING

Ni Hao (‘Hello’ in Chinese). My name is Icy Ling, known as @ icybutterfly to my 61,000 instagram followers. I founded IC&Co in 2020 to promote communication and cultural dissemination between Australia and Chinese at home and abroad, and provide a wider promotion for international and Australian brands.

NIKITA PAPAS

An established PR and Communications Director, Nikita Papas has garnered 15+ years of experience within the beauty, fashion, advertising, and publishing arenas. As a qualified and experienced business marketer, he understands how both media and consumers digest and share content, and the value of creating an addictive brand journey. A visionary content producer, Nikita is renowned for creating persuasive copy, and seamless visual narratives that ignite desire, engagement, and ultimate brand success. He connects with the most enviable beauty and fashion brands, media tastemakers, influencers, and creative agencies.

TASHI JADE BELL

Tashi Jade Bell is a self-taught MUA with a passion for colour, who first discovered the magic of makeup and skincare in 2010 when she visited Sephora in NYC. She began creating beauty and fashion content in 2013, beginning on YouTube, and it wasn’t long before she was a part-time content creator. Beauty has also worked as a form of therapy for the former lawyer, who previously specialised in private equity and venture capital for over 10 years, but was forced to retire from her stressful career due to treatment resistant depression and anxiety. Tashi Jade Bell now uses her social media presence, which currently has over 75,000 followers on Instagram @ paint_bytashijadebell, as a form of art therapy. Tashi Jade Bell is also a co-host of @thebeautybusinesspodcast.

MICHAEL BROWN

Growing up as a dancer, Michael Brown was quick to learn the ‘art’ of makeup artistry. His career as a travelling make-up artist for some of the industry’s biggest brands saw him leave Perth for Sydney where he became a national makeup artist and trainer. His creative flair and great communication skills gave him exposure within the Australian celebrity and media scene. Michael is now not only a celebrity makeup artist, but also presenter, educator and brand ambassador with regular appearances on Channel 9’s Today Extra. Michael is also co-host of the Nova podcast Skinfluence.

8| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

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ACE OF BASE

Illuminance

The Next Generation of Makeup for Revlon

Foundation is one of the most talked about makeup topics across glossy magazines and social media like TikTok where viral videos featuring foundation rack up millions of views. Many women of all ages are on a constant quest to track down the right shade, coverage and texture and the latest innovations. Longtime favourites still have huge appeal and extended fan bases, but newness in the category is key to increasing market share and attracting interest from new and brand-loyal customers.

Makeup sales have bounced back worldwide since the end of the mask mandates of the Covid-19 crisis. Foundation is again centre stage and new products are hitting the market at lightning speed. But few brands have such a long and successful history in the foundation space as Revlon from such popular franchises as Age Defying to the benchmark longwear staying power of ColorStay, Australia’s number one foundation range.

DOUBLE POWER/ KEY POINT OF DIFFERENCE

But taking performance to the next level and constant innovation are part of Revlon’s DNA. Illuminance Skin-Caring Foundation is the brand’s latest foundation launch and represents the next generation in makeup for Revlon, says Kaitlin Rady, General Manager, Revlon Australia and New Zealand. “Illuminance is a foundation hybrid that blends the benefits of skincare and makeup. It is a lightweight, moisturising formula which hydrates the skin and, importantly, improves its appearance over time, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and increasing the skin’s elasticity in four weeks”.

Hybrid foundations which elevate makeup application and improve the skin are one of the hottest trends in makeup today and are here to stay. Part of the “skinification” of beauty mega-trend, they also deliver on consumer expectations of multi-tasking and hightech formulas and enhance the skin’s texture and appearance without feeling like a layer on top of it for a more flawless look.

A key point of difference between Illuminance and competitor serum products is coverage, says Rady. “It’s the foundation “holy grail” to be able to achieve medium coverage at the same time as a radiant, dewy finish; most dewy finish foundations have limited to light coverage. The application is also very sensorial, it truly feels like a step in your skincare routine”.

10| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

The appeal of hybrid foundations with a dewy finish crosses the generations to maximise customer appeal. For older women, their hydrating properties and lightweight texture make the skin look more plump and fresh and they don’t settle into lines and wrinkles. Younger women love their easy to blend, buildable quality that adds light, a second-skin-feel and evens out the complexion. Hybrid foundations are also major time savers as they double down on hydrating benefits.

MOST SEARCHED FOR/ HIGH PERCENTAGE

Today’s consumers are very savvy about ingredients and containing in-demand actives makes a product stand out from the crowd. Illuminance incorporates two skincare powerhouses - hyaluronic acid and squalane. Hyaluronic acid, which can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water, helps to pump hydration into the skin. Squalane strengthens the skin’s barrier, locks in moisture, increases suppleness and improves skin texture. Illuminance also contains a botanical antioxidant blend to fight the damaging effects of free radicals from pollution and UV exposure.

Squalane is one of the most searched for skincare ingredients today. Many dermatologists use hyaluronic acid and squalane in tandem together for hydrating treatments because of their complementary functions. Hyaluronic acid works as a humectant, drawing water into the skin, and squalane preserves it from evaporation for optimal moisturisation.

Using ingredients in efficacious percentages is a major trend in skincare and makeup. Illuminance contains a significant 5% of plant-based squalane to provide superior skin-loving benefits. Squalane is bio-identical to squalene, a lipid produced naturally by the skin cells, and is rapidly absorbed by the skin.

Backed by science, squalane has been clinically proven to smooth skin roughness, plump and minimise fine lines and preserve the skin’s water balance. Another string to squalane’s bow is its ability to act as a primer to improve makeup application and staying power. But unlike some primer products, squalane doesn’t clog pores and is compatible with all skin types, including oily, acneprone and sensitive.

FOUNDATION CORE TO MAKEUP ROUTINE

Many Gen Zers and younger Millennials in

Australia and overseas adopted a minimalist approach to beauty during the Covid-19 pandemic, concentrating on boosting skin health and wearing barelythere makeup. But according to the 2022 Makeup Attitudes and Usage Report from data tracker, The NPD Group, about 70 per cent of makeup consumers in the US quickly returned to their preCovid routines. Mascara was the most used makeup product overall, followed by foundation, eyeshadow, eyeliner and lipstick. Older women revealed that they primarily wear makeup to enhance their appearance and Gen Zers and Millennials said it boosted their confidence.

Foundation, whether it’s a cream format or hybrid base plus highlighter, will always be the core of the makeup routine, says Rady. “However, another change has been the democratisation of ancillary products that were once the domain of makeup artists. Demand has escalated for products like highlighters, concealers, instant contour, colour correctors, bronzer, blush, and blurring powders, as consumers become more confident, and formats have evolved to become easier to use”.

STRONG MARKET POSITION

The Australia and New Zealand market is the second biggest for Revlon outside of the US. The brand’s reputation for prestige quality products at accessible prices continues to deliver growth in shopper numbers and consumer demand. Revlon has over a 16 per cent share of Australian cosmetics market and is growing 13 per cent YTD (IRI YTD 11.06.23), says Rady. A growth trajectory that relies equally on new launches and core franchises that consumers know and love and continue to purchase year after year. In the foundation category, Revlon ColorStay Longwear Makeup is the #1 Foundation Range in Australia. Lips are another strong suit with Revlon clinching top ranking as the #1 Lip brand and SuperLustrous Lipstick the #1 Lip Range. While Revlon ColorStay Eyeshadow Quads are the #1 Eyeshadow Range. ( Source: IRI, Grocery Pharmacy, MAT to 11.06.23).

Illuminance also got off to a fantastic start, says Rady. “It’s flying off the shelves. In the first week of July alone, almost 7000 units were sold across the pharmacy channel + 37 per cent up on forecast”.

Illuminance is available in 16 radiant shades, which can be blended over a number of skin tones. ■

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |11
Hybrid foundations which elevate makeup application and improve the skin are one of the hottest trends in makeup today and are here to stay.

NU SKIN’S STRATEGIC INVESTMENT ARM ACQUIRES BEAUTYBIO

Last year saw the Australian launch of the ageLOC LumiSpa iO, billed as the brand’s most advanced skincare device to date which offers personalised cleansing treatments through sensors and intelligent coaching.

To extend its footprint in the beauty devices market, Nu Skin has acquired BeautyBio, the US beauty device and skincare brand, through Rhyz Inc, its strategic investment arm.

Created in 2018, Rhyz encompasses consumer, technology and manufacturing companies focused on innovation within the beauty, wellness and lifestyle categories.

Founder Jamie O’Banion launched BeautyBio in 2011 and it has a wide distribution, including Sephora in the US, Harrods in the UK, Mecca in Australia and online. Famed for its multi-award winning GloPRO Facial Microneedling Tool, which stimulates collagen production and promotes the absorption of skincare products, the brand also specialises in high-tech serums, moisturisers, haircare and body care. The GLOfacial Hydro-Infusion Pore Cleansing tool is another cult favourite.

BeautyBio will continue to operate independently as an omnichannel brand, helmed by O’Banion. But the backing of Nu Skin will allow it to leverage expansion and look for increased growth opportunities.

The at-home global beauty devices market is booming. According to The Insight Partners, the category is predicted to grow at a CAGR of 13.7 per cent to US$80.74 billion by 2027.

Nu Skin is one of the leading players in the sector with revenues of US$2.7 billion in 2021 and was named the world’s number one athome device system brand five years in a row by Euromonitor International.

BeautyBio’s commitment to beauty through innovation aligns with our vision for personalized, science-based skincare products and beauty device systems, noted Ryan Napierski, president and CEO of Nu Skin Enterprises. “BeautyBio’s unique device IP in hydration facial and micro-needling technology will further strengthen Nu Skin’s position as the world’s best-selling beauty device systems brand. For BeautyBio, our unique expertise in devices, manufacturing and technology will help this business reach its potential as part of the Rhyz ecosystem.”

We couldn’t be more excited to be a part of Rhyz and the Nu Skin Enterprises family, added O’Banion, president and CEO of BeautyBio. “As we look for new opportunities to empower our existing and future communities around the world in a deeper and more meaningful way, this partnership will enable us to further accelerate our mission of enhancing lives through clean, performance-based skincare solutions for a limitless, healthy future.”

VITALITY BRANDS ACQUIRES TRIBE SKINCARE FOR UNDISCLOSED SUM

Prominent Australian consumer brands company Vitality Brands has continued its expansion within the skincare and personal care sector with the acquisition of Tribe Skincare for an undisclosed sum.

Tribe Skincare, founded by beauty therapist Kayla Houlihan in 2018, swiftly gained widespread acclaim as a sensitive skincare brand that is entirely natural, vegan-friendly, and cruelty-free and has achieved an $8 million turnover since its inception.

A recent study highlighted that over 70 percent of individuals self-identify as having sensitive skin, with global Google searches for ‘sensitive skin’ doubling over the past five years.

Addressing this expanding customer demographic, Tribe Skincare bridges the gap between natural products that might lack effectiveness and expensive cosmeceutical active products that are unsuitable for sensitive skin.

With its formulations supported by compelling before-and-after photographs,

including those shared by Houlihan chronicling her own skin journey, the brand has cultivated a strong following on social media platforms, with an impressive 236K following on TikTok and 66K on Instagram.

Richard Meyrick, Managing Director of Vitality Brands, expressed enthusiasm about the acquisition, saying: “Tribe Skincare will be a significant addition to our business, aligning perfectly with our focus on high-quality and therapeutic skincare, omni-channel growth and export expansion, as well as our belief in creating products that make people and the planet healthier and happier.

“We have been very selective over the last 18 months in assessing a number of brands that would complement Vitality’s quality brand portfolio and Tribe Skincare is an innovative, popular and authentic brand with an exceptionally loyal customer following and an exciting growth outlook.

“Adding this successful e-commerce business to our portfolio will mean we are

able to accelerate our growth in the online space, benefiting our entire brand offering and supporting our continued 21% CAGR (compound annual growth rate) trend.”

Houlihan will continue to contribute after her return from maternity leave in 2024, leveraging her valuable insights and expertise.

Jamie O’Banion.
12| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 INDUSTRY NEWS
Richard Meyrick and Kayla Houlihan.

PRICELINE PHARMACY UNVEILS HEALTH & BEAUTY AWARD WINNERS

The inaugural Priceline store emerged in 1982 within Victoria’s Highpoint Shopping Centre and now, a network of over 470 Priceline outlets spans the nation.

The Sister Club of Priceline boasts an impressive membership of eight million, solidifying its status as Australia’s largest loyalty program for health and beauty.

Priceline Pharmacy recently unveiled the victors of the 2023 Health & Beauty Awards, determined through customer votes.

With more than 30,000 Australians participating, these awards celebrate the standout beauty, health, and wellness products obtainable at Priceline’s widespread network.

Head of Marketing at Priceline Pharmacy, Gabrielle Tully, said: “The Health & Beauty Awards have injected a fresh spark into our winter campaign, which traditionally centres on remedies for coughs and colds. This initiative motivates customers to explore new options, secure in the knowledge that these winning products have been endorsed by their peers. With over half a million votes cast, customers can confidently venture to their local store and explore novel items that have garnered approval from fellow Australians.”

One of the most notable accolades, the Most Iconic award, was claimed by Lucas’ Papaw Ointment With Lip Applicator, backed by an astonishing 13,500 votes. Impressively, this product enjoys a sales rate of one tube every 2 minutes at Priceline Pharmacy*.

The title of Best Vitamin was secured by Ostelin Vitamin D 1000IU – D3 for Bone Health + Immune Support, boasting a remarkable feat of selling over 300 bottles daily*.

Recognised for its excellence, the Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara Blackest Black triumphed as the Best Lash & Brow product, garnering an impressive 10,500 votes. A testament to its popularity, Priceline sells more than eight Lash Sensational Sky High Mascaras in Blackest Black every hour*.

To extend the celebration, Priceline’s Health & Beauty Award recipients will be prominently featured in-store and online for the upcoming year, receiving visibility across digital and print media platforms.

Additionally, these winners will be showcased on Priceline’s active social media channels.

Priceline Health & Beauty Award winners

• Most Iconic: Lucas’ Papaw Ointment With Lip Applicator 15g

• Best Cleanser: CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser 236mL

• Best Serum: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% 30mL

• Best Lash & Brow: Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara Blackest Black 7.2mL

• Best Hair Colour & Styling: Batiste Eden Bloom Dry Shampoo 350mL

• Best Sunscreen: La Roche-Posay

Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ 50mL

• Best Face Moisturiser: The Ordinary Natural Moisturising Factors + HA 30mL

• Best Body Moisturiser: Ego QV Ceramides Moisturing Lotion 350mL

• Best Beauty Dupe: Maybelline Instant Perfector 4-in-1 Glow

• Best Tanning: Bondi Sands Aero 1 Hour Express 200g

• Best Foundation & Tint: L’Oréal Paris True Match Nude Plumping

Tinted Serum 30mL

• Best Haircare: Hask Argan 5 in 1 Leave-in Spray 175mL

• Best Nail: Sally Hansen Complete Care 7 in 1 Treatment 13.3mL

• Best Newcomer: Maybelline Superstay Vinyl Ink Longwear Liquid Lipstick 4.2mL

• Best Vitamin: Ostelin Vitamin D 1000IU D3 for Bone Health + Immune Support 250 caps

• Medicine Cabinet Must Have: Hydralyte Orange Effervescent Electrolyte 20 Tabs

• Best Lip: Revlon Colorstay Suede Ink Lipstick Gut Instinct 2.5g

• Best Face Prep & Set: e.l.f Power Grip Primer 24mL

• Best Bathroom & Personal Care: Scholl Velvet Smooth Electronic Foot Care System Pink

• Best Fragrance: Marc Jacobs Daisy EDT 100mL

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |13 INDUSTRY NEWS
“Priceline’s Health & Beauty Award recipients will be prominently featured in-store and online...”

JAPANESE GIANT KAO CORPORATION ACQUIRES BONDI SANDS FOR $450 MILLION

Japanese multinational Kao Corporation has acquired iconic Australian tanning and skincare brand Bondi Sands in a deal rumoured to be worth $450 million.Bondi Sands, founded in Melbourne in 2012, has quickly become the leading self-tanning brand in Australia and beyond, selling its products in over 32 countries, including the US and the UK.

With a 55 per cent market share in Australia, the brand is set to achieve over $190 million in total revenue for CY23. The company’s SPF range has been growing impressively at a rate of 100 per cent year over year, making it the fastest-growing SPF brand in both Australia and the UK since its introduction in 2017.

The company is on track to produce a staggering 18 million units in 2023 alone, and with a strong foothold in the North American and European markets, Bondi Sands has experienced rapid year-on-year growth of 39 per cent and 30 per cent, respectively, in these regions.

Currently, its products are available in over 40,000 stores worldwide, and soon, they will make their debut in more than 4,000 Walmart locations.

Shaun Wilson, CEO and co-founder of Bondi Sands, expressed enthusiasm about the partnership with Kao Corporation, highlighting the potential for growth and expansion into untapped markets.

“The integration of Kao’s renowned scientific and technological resources into our operations is an unparalleled opportunity that will significantly contribute to the exponential growth of our brand, empowering us to further expand our product offerings and advance our research and development initiatives,” Wilson said in a statement issued by Kao.

“With this partnership, we can now confidently explore untapped markets, reach more customers around the world and continue to fulfill our company mission.”

Kao Corporation, established in 1887 in Tokyo, owns well-known skincare and haircare brands such as Biore, Jergens, Oribe, and KMS.

The addition of Bondi Sands to Kao’s consumer family of brands aligns with the company’s focus on skincare as a medium-term growth driver, particularly in skin protection and suncare products.

The acquisition will allow Bondi Sands to continue its manufacturing in Melbourne while benefiting from the global reach and expertise of Kao Corporation.

With access to Kao’s extensive distribution network, Bondi Sands aims to reach more customers worldwide. Despite facing some challenges, including a class-action lawsuit in the US over alleged greenwashing of its sunscreens, Bondi Sands remains a dominant force in the self-tanning market and is poised to expand its global presence under its new ownership.

BUMPER FIRST HALF FOR LVMH BUOYED BY PERFUME AND COSMETICS

LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, is soaring high. They’ve just revealed their role as a Premium Partner for the Paris 2024 Olympics. LVMH’s Sephora will join as a partner for the Olympic Torch Relay, organising activities along the route and at key locations.

In the first half of 2023, LVMH reported remarkable results. Their revenue reached €42.2 billion (US$46.71 billion), up 15 per cent in reported terms and 17 per cent organically YOY. Except for Wines & Spirits, all divisions achieved double-digit growth. Fashion & Leather Goods stood out with a 17 per cent rise to €21.162 billion (US$23.43 billion). Notably, Pharrell Williams’ debut show for Louis Vuitton drew massive attention, amassing 1.1 billion social media views.

Selective Retailing, including Sephora and DFS travel retail, benefited from increasing international travel, driving turnover up 26 per cent to €8.355 billion (US$9.25 billion). LVMH remains a prestige beauty heavyweight with brands like Dior, Givenchy, and Guerlain. Their beauty division earned €4.028 billion (US$4.46 billion), up 11 per cent in reported terms and 13 per cent organically. Dior and Guerlain’s skincare, along with Benefit Cosmetics and Fenty Beauty, played key roles.

To enhance their 15-brand portfolio, LVMH revamped its Perfumes & Cosmetics leadership. Stephane Rinderknech, with a strong beauty background, was appointed CEO. He’s a 22year L’Oréal veteran, having held senior roles in China and the USA.

Bernard Arnault, LVMH’s Chairman and CEO, praised the outstanding results achieved despite economic uncertainties. The group maintains its commitment to environmental and societal goals, including a -30 per cent water consumption reduction plan by 2030. With confidence and agility, LVMH aims to solidify its luxury leadership in 2023.

14| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 INDUSTRY NEWS
Shaun Wilson and Blair James.

ESTÉE LAUDER PARTNERS WITH MANCHESTER UNITED IN FIRST-OF-A-KIND TEAM UP

Manchester United, a prized sports franchise, has doubled its global fan base to an astounding 659 million in five years, with 90 per cent of fans in emerging nations, predominantly Asia, accounting for 325 million followers.

Estée Lauder’s exclusive partnership with Manchester United, dubbed “Man United,” is aimed at expanding its presence in China and APAC regions. While the club has partnered with multinationals like Unilever before, this marks its first collaboration with a beauty brand. The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) are renowned in Asia, and this venture with Manchester United offers significant revenue potential, given the club’s 250 million followers in China alone.

The partnership launches with a focus on Advanced Night Repair, Lauder’s top-selling serum. This legendary serum, now named Advanced Night Repair Synchronized MultiRecovery Complex, has evolved over the years and is the most potent version to date.

AUSTIN BUTLER TAPPED AS GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR YSL’S NEW MEN’S FRAGRANCE

Austin Butler, the charismatic star of Elvis, Baz Luhrmann’s blockbuster biopic, has been tapped as the global ambassador for YSL Beauty’s new men’s fragranceMYSLF. Butler joins other famous faces, including Dua Lipa, Lenny Kravitz, Lil Nas X and Lila Moss, who have fronted campaigns for the storied brand over the past few years.

The first new men’s juice from the L’Oréal Luxe stalwart in five years, MYSLF is a sophisticated woody floral spiked with bergamot, orange blossom and patchouli. The chic, black rectangular bottle is made from recycled glass and is also recyclable to cue in with today’s emphasis on sustainability.

Like Timothee Chalamet, the recently appointed ambassador for Bleu de Chanel, Chanel’s topselling men’s fragrance, Butler stars in two major films with end-of-year releases, The Bikeriders and Dune: Part Two, to maximise the award-winning actor’s visibility in the run-up to Christmas.

In a statement, Stephan Bezy, International General Manager for YSL Beauty, revealed why Butler was chosen

for the role - “ Both as an artist and as a human being, he embodies the values expressed by our brand through MYSLF, a modern interpretation of what it means to be a man. Embracing his many facets. Owning up to his individuality, generously, unapologetically”.

Butler is also the right age to appeal to the two demographics YSL Beauty is looking to target with MYSLF. At 31, he straddles the line between older Gen Zers and younger Millennials. According to Mintel, the leading market researcher, younger males aged 18 to 34 are one of the main fragrance user groups and overindexed in regular use across the major fragrance types.

Fragrance use in China is also growing rapidly and the Chinese perfume market is expected to reach US$4.3 billion by 2025, according to iMedia Consulting. Young Chinese consumers of both sexes are fueling demand for both niche fragrances and best-selling juices from the major multinationals.

MYSLF debuted in the US this week and will roll out globally over the next

The campaign, featuring players like Marcus Rashford, combines beauty and sports, aiming to educate fans about skincare through Manchester United’s social platforms.

Justin Boxford, Estée Lauder’s Global Brand President, hailed the collaboration as groundbreaking, while Victoria Timpson, CEO of Alliances and Partnerships for Manchester United, stressed the importance of skincare for fans’ healthy lifestyles.

The distinctive bottle and dropper delivery of Advanced Night Repair suits men’s preferences, making it an ideal choice for the partnership. Estée Lauder’s Lab Series, targeting China’s men’s grooming market, complements this initiative. The global men’s personal care market, predicted to reach US$166 billion, sees rapid growth in China and APAC.

In short, Estée Lauder’s unique partnership with Manchester United taps into the club’s massive following to expand its presence in Asia, promoting skincare awareness and leveraging products like Advanced Night Repair. This collaboration also aligns with the surging men’s grooming market in China and APAC.

few months. The print campaign was lensed by New York-based photographer, Gray Sorrenti, who has worked with many leading fashion brands including Calvin Klein and Loewe.

The video campaign was shot by Julia Ducournau, the French film director who won the prestigious Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival in 2021 - only the second woman to win the award.

Austin Butler. (Photo by Gray Sorrenti/ Courtesy of YSL Beauty)
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |15 INDUSTRY NEWS

2023 MECCA BEAUTY ELECTION WINNERS UNVEILED

The winners of the eagerly awaited 2023 Mecca Beauty Election have been revealed, following an impressive participation of over 42,000 dedicated Mecca enthusiasts.

From essential lip care products to revolutionary hair solutions, enchanting fragrances to potent serums, these triumphant beauty favourites are poised to claim their place of honour atop the beauty shelves.

Among the esteemed annual traditions, the Mecca Beauty Election stands as a customer-driven campaign, offering empowerment to beauty aficionados and curious experimenters alike.

Participants were invited to voice their preferences from a meticulously curated selection of 114 top-tier products across 19 distinct categories.

Boasting an impressive repertoire of over 200 global beauty giants, Mecca’s objective in this initiative is to unveil and celebrate the most cherished, transformed, and ardently sought-after beauty essentials.

With a resounding chorus of votes, these winners are now prepared to claim their well-deserved prominence among the pantheon of beauty essentials.

Opposite is full list of the winners in each category:

Makeup

• Best Complexion: NARS Sheer Glow Foundation

• Best Mascara: ILIA Limitless Lash Mascara

• Best Concealer: Kosas Revealer Concealer

• Best Lips: Charlotte Tilbury Matte Revolution

• Best Blush: NARS Blush

• Best Eyes: Charlotte Tilbury Luxury Palette

• Best Brows: MECCA Max Brow Guru Clear Control Gel

Skincare

• Best Oil/Serum: Glow Recipe Watermelon Dew Drops

• Best Eye Care: Origins GinZing Refreshing Eye Cream

• Best Moisturiser: Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Cream

• Best Cleanser: Tatcha The Rice Wash

• Best SPF: MECCA COSMETICA To Save Body SPF50+ Hydrating Sunscreen

Fragrance, Hair & Body

• Best Body: Sol de Janeiro Beija Flor Elasti-Cream

• Best Hair: Briogeo Scalp Revival Stimulating Therapy Massager

• Best Personal Fragrance: Le Labo AnOther

13 EDP

• Best Home Fragrance: Maison Margiela Lazy Sunday Morning Candle

New Categories

• Best Kept Secret: Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Peel Daily

• Best Newcomer: NARS Light Reflecting Foundation

• Best Self-Care: Kiehl’s Crème de Corps Moisturiser

16| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 INDUSTRY NEWS
“With a resounding chorus of votes, these winners are now prepared to claim their well-deserved prominence among the pantheon of beauty essentials.”
sales@selfcare.net.au www.freeze-frame.com

organic skincare BUILDING TRUST IN

The Australian Organic Market Report 2023, commissioned by Australian Organic Limited (AOL) shows ‘greenwashing’ continues to undermine consumer trust in the $2.6 billion industry, with one third of shoppers for organic food and products reporting they have been misled by false advertising on uncertified products. “The only way to be truly confident that you’re making the most sustainable choice is to look for an organic certification logo on packaging,” AOL Chief Executive Officer, Niki Ford, said. “Until the laws are changed to

stop uncertified operators marketing their product as ‘organic’, some consumers will understandably feel hesitant when making a purchase.

“A lack of domestic regulation on the use of the term ‘organic’ is jeopardising the efforts of hardworking certified organic operators who are helping push sustainability forward.”

It’s a frustrating issue for Katrina Main, who is the General Manager of Cawarra Cosmetics and is passionate about making products inspired by nature.

Katrina’s father recognised the importance of certification right from the start.

“A big priority for him when starting out was showing that we as a brand were not greenwashing, and the best way to do that was getting certified,” she said.

“It does frustrate me that I have to always refer to the ‘certified organic’ cosmetic industry rather than just the ‘organic industry’, but unfortunately with current laws almost anyone can say they’re organic without having to prove it.

As certified organic operators strive to manufacture cosmetics using all natural ingredients, some uncertified companies are capitalising on the lack of regulation around the use of the word ‘organic’ on Australian product labels.
BUSINESS 20| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

“Providing peace of mind to our customers is at the heart of what we do –particularly for a family-focused brand like Sanctum. Getting the stamp of approval from an independent body is the best way to provide that certified care.

“It does pose some financial and logistical challenges, but that extra effort is important to prove you’re the real deal.”

YOU DON’T NEED TO USE CHEMICALS TO ACHIEVE EFFECTIVE SKINCARE

“We’ve seen that you can make luxurious cosmetics using all natural ingredients,” Katrina said.

“There’s been a growing awareness of the importance of looking after our health, accelerated by the pandemic, not just internally but also with what we put on our skin.

“Parents in particular want to really understand what they’re putting on their children’s skin, and being certified organic provides that peace of mind.

“And when you don’t use pesticides or other artificial ingredients, you end up with a higher concentration of the pure ingredients, like chamomile flower extract, which are used for anti-inflammatory purposes. You’re not watering anything down.

“So, you can actually get better results without peptides and other things that you don’t know the long-term effects of.”

INSPIRED BY NATURE

While Cawarra’s journey began 40 years ago in Sydney, it was a tree change which inspired the pursuit of natural and organic practices.

Katrina’s parents, Greg and Jicky, moved to Byron Bay in 1989 in search of a more peaceful lifestyle, and were immediately inspired by their new surroundings.

“Dad was a biochemist, so he’d seen the ‘chemical side’ of the industry, but after moving he shifted his focus more to plants and other natural ingredients found around the area,” Katrina said.

“He recognised pretty early that certified organic production was not just relevant to the food industry but also to cosmetics.”

Still based in Byron Bay, Cawarra Cosmetics manufactures for a range of clients who supply health food stores, pharmacies and supermarkets, as well as the

MORE ABOUT AUSTRALIAN ORGANIC LIMITED (AOL)

Australian Organic Limited (AOL) is the peak industry body engaging with government and industry to promote the commercial and social interests of those who are certified and protect the integrity of the certified industry against fraud and misleading organics. AOL has been at the foundation of organics since 1987 and is identified by the most recognised mark in Australia, the Australian Certified Organic Bud trademark. This trademark signals the highest of integrity and is recognised by 64 per cent of Australian consumers. https://austorganic.com

September is Australian Organic Awareness Month (AOAM), which helps educate consumers on the importance of choosing certified organic products. To learn more about AOAM and certified organic skincare, visit  www.whyorganic.com.au

company’s own three brands – Sanctum, organicspa and Byron Bay Skincare.

“That belief in creating moisturisers, cleansers, shampoos et cetera that are just as good, if not better, than the synthetic products on the market still drives us to this day,” Katrina said.

“It’s not just about the health or environmental benefits, it’s about trying to create a better product as well.”

WHAT MAKES A PRODUCT CERTIFIED ORGANIC?

Certified organic cosmetics contain organically grown and processed ingredients, grown without synthetic fertiliser, toxic pesticides and other artificial inputs.

The difference between natural and organic is how the base plant material has been grown, processed and packaged. It’s possible for a natural lavender oil to be extracted from lavender sprayed with conventional pesticides and herbicides.

Often, astringent chemicals are used for the extraction of beauty products, and chemical stabilisers and preservatives are used to prolong the shelf life. However, the certified organic counterpart has been grown without synthetic fertilisers, pesticides or GMOs, with the final product also adhering to organic regulations.

The balance of a certified organic skincare formula, not including water and minerals, must be of natural origin. It cannot include ingredients such as typical preservatives like parabens, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate. In the calculation method, water and minerals are not included, which is why lipsticks and mascaras cannot be certified. ■

BUSINESS RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |21

5

Skincare Industry Trends

Your brand needs to know

The ongoing cost of living crisis is causing a shift in consumer priorities in the skincare industry. Is your brand ready to meet consumers’ evolving expectations?

1. MULTIFUNCTIONALITY MOVEMENT

Skincare shoppers are saying goodbye to complicated routines and opting for the ‘less-is-more’ approach. The onset of Covid-19 triggered this skincare industry trend as 29 per cent of women in the UK switched to multifunctional products since the start of the pandemic as they were spending less time on their skincare regimes. Mintel forecasts how these cutback behaviours are set to intensify in the face of inflation, paving the way for ‘skinimalism’, skip-care and skin cycling trends.

The usage of day cream has seen a downward trend since 2021, which can be partially attributed to the rising media attention on suncare products and their ability to prevent skin ageing. To combat this decline, brands are blurring the lines between skincare and colour cosmetics. For example, Garnier reformulated its Classic All-in-1 Perfector BB Cream which can be used as a foundation, a moisturising cream and an SPF. Garnier has observed consumers’ desire for multifunctionality in skincare and has provided value beyond low prices.

The trend of multifunctional products is also becoming increasingly popular in the men’s skincare market. As incomes are squeezed, people seek long-lasting results and products that will do more than one job. A third of male skincare buyers claim that multipurpose products affect their shopping decisions.

The desire for streamlined skincare routines doesn’t mean that consumers are willing to compromise on efficacy or performance. Consumers in this space are calling on brands to provide education on ingredient potency and application techniques, to communicate the added benefits of products and help users to reduce their environmental impact, heal their skin barriers, and save time and money.

Garnier has observed consumers’ desire for multifunctionality in skincare and has provided value beyond low prices.
TRENDS 22| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023
Garnier All-in-1 Perfector BB Cream.

2. SKIN TYPE PERSONALISATION

There is a growing consensus that skin type personalisation is a right, not a privilege. Sixty one percent of female facial skincare users agree it’s better to shop according to skin type which spotlights the relevance of ensuring women are accurate when self-diagnosing their skin type. But what happens if women are misinformed about their skin type? Well, they’re less likely to see results and may abandon a brand or product as a result.

To combat this, brands are investing in online tools to help shoppers determine their skin type from the comfort of their own homes. AI tools are guiding shoppers through questions to help them distinguish their skin type, and brands are even sending patch tests ahead of carrying out the test to improve accuracy. We’ve seen this in action from the Amorepacific and their Cosmechip device that uses microfluidic channel technology to monitor skin changes over long periods of time. This technology places control in the user’s hands, offering brands the opportunity to leverage AI and a data-driven approach to establish a long-term relationship between consumers and bespoke products that complement personalised skin needs.

Personalisation in skincare is also necessary as women transition through different life stages. Mintel’s analysis reveals that female facial skincare users aged 25-44 are the most engaged in researching products that are suitable for their life stage, which could be due to a variety of factors, such as menstrual or pregnancy-related concerns. This signals that there is an opportunity for skincare brands to partner with period and pregnancy apps to provide product-based recommendations for life-stage-based skincare.

4. DEMAND FOR LONGER-LASTING RESULTS

Influenced by convenience and a cost-conscious mindset, a rising proportion of female facial skincare buyers claim that long-lasting results are one of the top three most important factors when shopping for products. Prestige brands can work to ensure the value of the category is not eroded by trading down behaviours by leading with messaging that provides proof of longer-lasting results to instil purchase confidence.

But it’s not just about long-term results; people are also wanting to see instant results. If an individual doesn’t see some form of change within a certain time frame, they’re likely to stop using the product and won’t achieve the desired long-lasting results. Biossance has found a balance between the two. Their Omega Repair Cream is formulated with squalane, omega-rich oils and ceramides which help to repair and nourish the skin while providing immediate hydration. It also contains probiotics which help to support a healthy microbiome, leading to long-term skin health benefits. This demonstrates the importance of incorporating ingredients that offer both long-lasting and instant results to ensure continued usage and spending on a product.

5. ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN SKINCARE

A focus on general skin health persists, with 67 per cent of female skincare users opting for products that help improve their overall skin health, rather than targeting specific issues. The rising number of consumers who consider higher-quality active ingredients as a top priority when shopping for skincare products creates an opportunity for prestige brands to prove their value and tempt consumers away from mass-market or private-label alternatives. There’s room to encourage shoppers to trade up and drive purchase frequency by highlighting patented ingredients and leading with information about the required concentration and molecular weight needed for an active ingredient.

3. WATERLESS BEAUTY

Women are getting more experiential with their cleansing formats. Mintel analysis observes how women are switching from traditional face wash and wipes to no-water application options like micellar water; which 38 per cent of female consumers use. This shift towards waterless solutions highlights the importance of convenience and also suggests that consumers are making a conscious effort to reduce water usage. Within the soap, bath and shower market, almost half of female users claim that the rising cost of living has meant they’d be willing to shower or bathe less frequently. A preference for rinse-free cleansing products likely signals that these behaviours are filtering through into the facial skincare industry too.

With climate change on the rise, there’s an increased need for protective products that go beyond sun damage. Shifts in the environment have amplified the need to protect skin from pollution, blue light and ultra-fine dust. The rising interest in skin barrier support will fuel additional product claims, as consumers increasingly look to prevent future skin issues.

It’s a similar story for the men’s skincare market – over half of men agree it is important to use products that improve their overall skin health. There is an opening to drive repertoires and frequent usage among male consumers by leading with health messaging and providing scientific explanations about how products specifically enhance skin health. ■

This article is courtesy of Mintel, experts in what consumers want and why. As a Market Intelligence agency Mintel’s knowledge, expertise and insight can inform and guide a brand’s marketing strategy, helping to make better business decisions faster. https://www.mintel.com

Biossance has found a balance between the two
The Amorepacific Cosmechip device TRENDS RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |23
Biossance Squalane + Omega Repair Cream.

PHARMACY ASSISTANT NATIONAL CONFERENCE 2023

A MUST-ATTEND OVERVIEW

Are you eager to stay on the forefront of the pharmaceutical industry? The upcoming Pharmacy Assistant National Conference 2023, scheduled from August 31 to September 2, is your gateway to the latest advancements, trends, and insights in the field.

EDUCATIONAL INSIGHTS:

The event covers industry updates, product knowledge and personal and professional development.

NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES:

services. This hands-on experience will give you insights into the innovations shaping the industry’s future.

CAREER ADVANCEMENT:

EVENT THEME: “EMBRACE, ENVISION, EVOLVE”

Under the theme of “Embrace, Envision, Evolve,” this conference is designed to empower pharmacy assistants, professionals, and stakeholders with the knowledge and skills needed to thrive in an evolving industry.

The Pharmacy Assistant National Conference 2023 offers ample networking opportunities. Connect with fellow pharmacy assistants, professionals, and suppliers to exchange ideas, share experiences, and forge valuable connections within the industry.

TRADE EXHIBITION:

Explore the comprehensive trade exhibition, where leading pharmaceutical companies and suppliers will showcase their latest products, technologies, and

By attending this conference, you’ll equip yourself with updated industry insights and practical skills, enhancing your professional growth and opening doors for career advancement.

DUAL EVENT WITH PHARMACY CONNECT:

For the first time, the Pharmacy Assistant National Conference will be held in conjunction with Pharmacy Connect, an annual Pharmacy Guild event for pharmacists and pharmacy owners. This joint venture creates a unique opportunity for cross-industry collaboration, learning, and networking.

AWARDS ANNOUNCEMENT:

Mark your calendars for the exciting highlight of the event: the announcement of the 2023 Pharmacy Assistant of the Year (PATY) Award and the Glucojel Super Star Award winners. This momentous occasion will take place during the Pharmacy Assistant National Conference Cocktail Party on Friday, September 1, 2023.

REGISTER NOW:

Don’t miss out on this exceptional opportunity to be part of an event that will shape the future of pharmacy practices. To learn more about the event, explore the detailed program, and secure your spot, visit https://pharmacyassistants.com/.

24| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 CONFERENCE
The 2022 Pharmacy Assistant of the Year, Ms. Terri Bakker.

Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2023:

UNVEILING THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY INNOVATION AND TRENDS

Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2023 is set to be a dynamic and influential event in the beauty industry. This renowned exhibition, organized by BolognaFiere, Informa Markets, and China Beauty Expo, will take place from September 14 to 16, 2023, at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (QSNCC) in Bangkok, Thailand.

Building upon its previous successes, Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN will once again bring together international beauty companies, suppliers, and professionals from around the world. This event serves as a platform for showcasing avant-garde solutions for both finished products and the supply chain within the beauty and cosmetics sector.

Attendees can anticipate a diverse range of activities and features, including:

Exhibition: The event will encompass an expansive exhibition area, providing a comprehensive overview of the latest trends, products, and innovations in the beauty industry.

Country Pavilions: Country-specific pavilions will highlight innovative products and trends from various regions, contributing to a truly global perspective on beauty.

Educational Sessions: CosmoTalks, the educational arm of the event, will offer insights into emerging trends, market studies, and industry developments. These sessions will cater to beauty professionals seeking to stay updated on the latest insights and knowledge.

Live Demonstrations and Competitions: Cosmo Onstage will feature live demonstrations, competitions, and presentations by beauty experts, makeup artists, and hairstylists. Attendees can witness firsthand the artistry and techniques that define the industry. Special Areas: The event will include specialized sections such as Beauty Tech and Medical Beauty, focusing on the intersection of technology and healthcare with the beauty world.

Beauty Made in Thailand: A highlight of the event will be the “Beauty Made in Thailand” section, showcasing the high-quality and innovative offerings from local Thai beauty companies.

Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2023 promises to be a hub of creativity, knowledge sharing, and networking opportunities for beauty professionals, suppliers, and enthusiasts. As the beauty industry continues to evolve, this event will play a pivotal role in shaping its future trajectory.

Retail Beauty is excited to be attending the upcoming event as a guest of Cosmprof to actively engage and cover the event’s most recent developments. We will be diligently reporting on the latest news, emerging trends, and innovative insights that Cosmoprof has to offer. Stay tuned for our comprehensive coverage, as we aim to bring you an in-depth perspective on the dynamic world of beauty through our firsthand experience at Cosmoprof.

Images from Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 2022.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |25 CONFERENCE

Transforming lives

70 YEARS

OF HEALTHY SKIN SCIENCE

Australian skincare manufacturer, Ego Pharmaceuticals, is proudly celebrating its 70th anniversary this year, a remarkable milestone that underscores its iconic status in the skincare industry. Since its inception in 1953, Ego has been a trailblazer in developing and manufacturing innovative skincare products that have stood the test of time.

Founded by the dynamic duo of Gerald Oppenheim, a visionary chemist, and his wife Rae, a knowledgeable nurse, Ego was born to restore and maintain healthy skin. In their suburban Melbourne home, they created Ego Pine Tar Bath Solution, later known as Pinetarsol, becoming one of Australia’s most widely used inflammation treatments. Gerald’s chemistry expertise and Rae’s healthcare understanding established Ego as pioneers in dermatology product development, further influenced by Dr Erwin Oppenheim, Gerald’s successful dermatologist father, shaping early product ideas from patient conditions.

The name ‘Ego’ holds a profound significance, symbolising the enduring influence of both Erwin and Gerald Oppenheim on the business. Erwin, in fact, served as Ego’s main customer until Rae’s efforts to promote the products led to steady growth, gaining recognition among physicians and pharmacists across Australia.

EMBRACING THE PHARMACY INDUSTRY

One of the key factors that have contributed to Ego’s success is the close and enduring relationship it’s had with the pharmacy industry. Over the years, Ego’s engagement with the pharmacy industry has contributed to building a trusted reputation for the company’s skincare solutions. As Ego Pharmaceuticals continues its mission to transform lives through the science of healthy skin, the partnership with pharmacies remains at the core of their strategy. Ego strives to enhance its products and services to provide even greater value to both the pharmacy industry and the individuals seeking reliable skincare solutions.

SPONSORED FEATURE THROUGH
With seven decades of pioneering healthy skin solutions, Australian-made and family-owned Ego Pharmaceuticals continues to lead the way.
TOP: Gerald and Rae Oppenheim. ABOVE: Gerald, Rae and Alan in the lab. RIGHT: Ego Pharmaceuticals’ Brand Portfolio.
26| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

TRUSTED REPUTATION WITH HEALTH CARE PROFESSIONALS

Health Care Professionals (HCPs) rely on Ego’s range of dermatological solutions to meet the unique needs of their patients. From treating inflammation and sensitive skin to providing therapeutic relief, Ego’s products are designed to deliver tangible and reliable results. The company’s close collaboration with HCPs allows for valuable feedback, leading to continuous improvement and tailoring of products to address emerging challenges in the field of dermatology. Ego values the insights and expertise shared by HCPs, which have been instrumental in shaping the evolution of its skincare offerings.

TRANSFORMING LIVES: THE HEALTHY SKIN MISSION IN ACTION

At the heart of Ego’s philosophy is the mission to transform lives through the science of healthy skin. Whether it’s providing relief from inflammation, soothing sensitive skin, or offering therapeutic solutions for various skin conditions, Ego’s products have become trusted allies in the journey to healthier skin. Earlier this year, Ego launched the ‘Healthy Skin Story’ competition, and the response was overwhelming. Customers from all walks of life shared their personal journeys to healthier skin, demonstrating the profound impact Ego’s products had on their well-being.

PROUDLY AUSTRALIANMADE AND FAMILY-OWNED

One of the cornerstones of Ego’s identity is its commitment to manufacturing all its products in Australia. The ‘Made in Australia’ label is more than just a tag; it represents Ego’s dedication to quality, safety, and supporting local industries.

Additionally, Ego remains an Australian family-owned business, standing strong seven decades on. The Oppenheim family’s involvement in the company spans generations, with Gerald and Rae gradually passing the torch to their son, Alan, who joined Ego as Scientific Director. Alan’s wife, Dr Jane Oppenheim, also became an integral part of the business, with the pair eventually taking over management.

Today, Alan remains at the helm as Ego’s Managing Director, and Jane serves as Ego’s Scientific and Operations Director. Their leadership embodies the commitment, care, and passion that has been the driving force behind the brand’s continuing success.

LOOKING TOWARDS THE FUTURE

Ego’s commitment to scientific research and innovation remains unwavering. By staying at the forefront of scientific advancements, Ego aims to develop even more effective and groundbreaking skincare solutions that cater to the diverse needs of individuals worldwide.

While proud of its Australian heritage, Ego is equally enthusiastic about expanding its global footprint. With its

Ego Pharmaceuticals’ Brand Portfolio

Aqium

Azclear

DermAid

Egoderm

EgoPsoryl TA

Egozite

Elucent

etch&ethos

MOOV

Numit

Pinetarsol

QV Skincare Resolve

SebiRinse

Sebitar

Silic 15

SolvEasy

SOOV

SunSense

extensive range of products already trusted and recommended by Health Care Professionals in over 20 countries, through strategic partnerships and collaborations, Ego aspires to bring the benefits of healthy skin science to even more people around the world.

SUSTAINABILITY AND RESPONSIBILITY

As a responsible corporate citizen, Ego is committed to sustainability and minimising its environmental impact. Moving forward, Ego will continue to explore eco-friendly packaging options, optimise its manufacturing processes, and prioritise ethical sourcing of ingredients. Ego’s dedication to sustainability aligns with the company’s mission to create a positive impact on both skin health and the well-being of the planet. ■

SPONSORED FEATURE RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |27
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Alan and Jane Oppenheim, lab technician at Ego, Ego products in Pharmacy

Global

From Pharmacy to Retail:

THE INSPIRING JOURNEY OF INDUSTRY LEADER ANTHONY PECORA

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY AND HOW YOU BECAME A GENERAL MANGER AT ULTRA BEAUTY?

After completing my pharmacy studies in Melbourne and gaining five years of valuable experience in the field, I felt a strong urge to explore the world. This led me to spend two years managing a chain of pharmacies in central London. Upon my return to Melbourne, I decided to venture into entrepreneurship and purchased the first of several stores.

Feeling the need for a new challenge, I eventually sold my stores and transitioned outside of the health industry into the broader retail sector. This exciting move landed me the role of International

Business Development Manager for Salt&Pepper homewares. In this position, I had the responsibility of overseeing the global expansion of the brand, focusing particularly on North America, South America, and Asia.

Continuing my career journey, I then joined Target as General Manager of Design and Innovation. This role involved leading collaborations with prestigious brands such as Missoni, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dion Lee, Danni Minogue, and others, which significantly contributed to Target’s success.

Driven by my passion for the beauty industry, I took on the role of heading the Beauty Brand Strategy at Myer. Following this, I embraced an incredible opportunity and spent three years in

MY JOURNEY
With a diverse background that includes managing pharmacies in London, owning multiple stores, and heading major brand collaborations, Anthony Pecora’s career has been defined by constant growth and a relentless pursuit of new challenges.
28| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023
Michelle Ruzzene delves into the inspiring story of this seasoned professional, now the General Manager at Ultra Beauty, to find out the secrets to his career success.

Florence, Italy, as the General Manager of the prestigious Galleria Michelangelo Department Store.

When the Covid pandemic struck, I returned to Australia with the intention of a short visit. However, fate had other plans as I was presented with a wonderful opportunity to work as the General Manager at Ultra Beauty. This move was particularly special because of my longstanding relationship with Mario Verrocchi (Owner, My Chemist/Chemist Warehouse Group), and we saw it as the perfect time to collaborate and make a significant impact in the industry.

WHAT DREW YOU TO THE PHARMACY/BEAUTY INDUSTRY SPECIFICALLY?

Pharmacy plays a crucial role in wellness in most people’s lives, and I’ve always been attracted to the altruistic nature of the industry. The bright lights and excitement of the beauty industry with its innovation and ability to inspire and contribute to improved self-esteem and discovery, is a space that feels transformative and crucial in the new world we live in. Focusing on the positive power of wellbeing and creating joy, is really an important part of every career decision I’ve made so far. I feel strongly that it shouldn’t just be the luxury sector that leads and innovates. I believe that everyone should be able to opt in to experiential retail and to have access to great products, designs and outcomes along with uplifting inspiration too. Democratising premium retail has become part of my DNA and it’s where I derive a lot of professional satisfaction.

WHAT SPECIFIC SKILLS AND QUALIFICATIONS DO YOU BELIEVE HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO YOUR CAREER SUCCESS?

Problem solving, resilience, clarity of vision, a fundamental focus on the end-consumer, a constant willingness to adapt and flex with the customer’s needs and desires, a constant focus on trends and current buying psychology, a desire to bring elevated experiences and products to a wider demographic.

HOW DO YOU STAY UP-TO-DATE WITH RETAIL INNOVATION AND TRENDS IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

Never shutting off! Social media, local and

international store experiences, listening, watching and discussing the macro and micro trends, the fads and the fundamental shifts with my colleagues and contacts. After years of experience it becomes very natural to read where our wider retail industry is going.

WHAT ARE THE KEY CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY TODAY?

Key challenges are sustainability, cutting through the enormous noise, deciphering fads, micro and macro trends; working with a more educated, cynical and informed public. The opportunities available are around authenticity, innovation, building engagement, connecting on an emotional level with the customer, not just in a transactional way and building trust with the customer.

HOW DO YOU ENSURE BRAND CONSISTENCY ACROSS VARIOUS TOUCHPOINTS, INCLUDING PACKAGING, ADVERTISING, AND RETAIL SPACES?

There are no short cuts. It’s in every micro detail. Every single decision needs to be put through the lens of relevancy to the customer and how it connects back to the overall vision. Every social media post, every piece of packaging, every word that is used, every in-store material and unit design, every product for sale. Everything.

HOW DO YOU APPROACH THE ROLLOUT OF NEW STORES?

The roll out is defined by data, experience, availability of sites and a dose of gutfeeling. Locations are selected on their

hunger for premium beauty and where we feel our beauty edit will resonate. We tailor our offerings to the local area. We have a team that are committed to bringing the Ultra Beauty experience to everyone, regardless of where they live. We have invested heavily over the last 3 years to ensure our model is built to be consistent and scaleable. Every decision was based on scaleability and reproducibility.

WHAT DO YOU BELIEVE ARE THE ESSENTIAL SKILLS AND QUALITIES REQUIRED FOR SUCCESS IN THE RETAIL AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY?

Resilience, learning and growing always, never standing still, personal passion and drive, customer-first mentality, being 12 months ahead of your customer so you have time to plan for what they will want, at the right time.

ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO ADD?

I’ve been very passionate about my work at Ultra Beauty. I fundamentally believe that everyone should have access to products, outcomes and experiences that talk directly to them, make them feel welcome, at-ease and included. This allows our customers to thrive within an ever changing world of ingredients, brands and technologies, in a way that they find inspiring and educational. We’re proud of what we’ve achieved so far and from what our customers are showing us, the path ahead for Ultra Beauty is going to be very bright indeed. We are so happy to be an extension of the CW Retail and Chemist Warehouse family and together we can truly achieve our goal of “BEAUTY FOR EVERYONE”. ■

MY JOURNEY
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |29
Ultra Beauty locations are selected on their hunger for premium beauty.

ALLIES of SKIN

A GLOBAL SKINCARE SUCCESS STORY

After facing trauma and tragedy during his life, Nicolas Travis decided to launch his own skincare brand. Here, Travis shares with Jo-Anne Hui-Miller the brand’s expansion into Europe and his journey of healing through his business and helping customers.

TELL ME ABOUT HOW ALLIES OF SKIN BEGAN.

When I first started in 2016, because Singapore is so small, I knew I needed to go global. But when I would go into buyer meetings, everybody would say, ‘Oh, I didn’t know Singapore had beauty brands. I only know of your airline and your chicken rice.’ And then I’d pitch and they wouldn’t stock the brand. It was so difficult, but I always believe that in life, all you need is just one person to believe in you and focus on them.

AND WHO WAS THAT PERSON FOR YOU?

It was Cult Beauty before they got acquired and they were really about incubating emerging brands. After that, came Barney’s (rest in peace), Net-a-Porter and then we expanded. But it took that one company to believe in us. When you’re a new brand, especially coming from Asia, the West doesn’t want to touch you until somebody else stocks you.

YOU’VE JUST OPENED YOUR HEADQUARTERS IN BERLIN – THAT’S SO EXCITING. YOU’RE TAKING OVER EUROPE! IS IT HARD CREATING A BRAND FOR DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD WITH DIFFERENT CLIMATES AND PEOPLE WITH DIFFERENT NEEDS?

I love that question. When I first started, it was always centred around the percentages of the actives, and then we created universal bases that everybody can love and appreciate. In the West, there’s been a

shift because previously, it was really about having a very matte look, but in Asia, it was all about looking dewy and having glasslike skin. But I think we’ve managed to marry them both really well, because we’re in 34 countries and we’ve never had an issue with textures. I think it also has to do with the delivery system of your products. If it sits on your face, then it’s not doing anything – the product needs to go into your skin so it will work.

YOU ACTUALLY HAVE A BACKGROUND IN BIOCHEMISTRY AND IT’S SOMETHING YOU’RE REALLY PASSIONATE ABOUT. THERE IS A FLOOD OF BRANDS IN THE SKINCARE MARKET, BUT NOT ALL OF THEM ARE SCIENTIFICALLY BACKED AND CLINICALLY PROVEN. WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THAT?

I had been told before that if I got a PhD or if I was a doctor, I would make a lot more money. But it comes back to why we exist, what we’re about and the value we add to consumers. You could have a science degree, or you could be a doctor, but doesn’t mean that you could formulate really great products.

I know I can make really incredible products that deliver results that keep people coming back for more. We have a retention rate of 40%, which is very high in the beauty industry. That’s not because of my background, it’s because the products work and that’s the most important thing.

I also think that at the end of the day, the pie is big enough for everybody to succeed in the beauty industry. It’s about the intentions of why you run your business.

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WHAT DID YOU ORIGINALLY THINK YOU WERE GOING TO DO IN YOUR CAREER?

I was always going to be in the beauty industry. Because I had no connection to it or any experience, I thought I had to pay my dues [and studied biomedical and pharmaceutical science]. It was when I was doing my master’s thesis [in international business] that I created a business plan for a startup skincare line and did all the research. Then I applied for jobs at every single beauty company in every single country that I thought I could work in. Nobody got back to me about a job, so I ended up doing PR and social media.

About nine months into the job, I was doing well. But I had this urge that I just couldn’t shake off to revisit the business plan. Then I realised that I could start with just one product. Then one became three. And that’s how we launched.

teenager, but I also had a really horrible accident and smashed my face. I needed to have reconstructive surgery, but I picked the wrong surgeon and I ended up having necrosis and multiple infections and holes in my face. It really shattered my self esteem.

After a failed suicide attempt, I went to see a therapist, who asked me: “What do you want to do with your life by the time you’re 30?”

The skin is the largest organ that we have. It’s the only modality that we can change. So I thought maybe I can’t fix how I look, but I can fix my skin. And if I feel bad about myself, other people probably also feel lousy about their skin. If you have acne, I understand how lonely and how debilitating it can be. Everyone thinks you’re dirty, or that you’ve got a problem. Because of what I went through, I can really empathise with that.

So I thought, if I can help somebody else, then my pain would have been worth it. And that’s our reason for being today.

also think that a lot of the times we really focus on “the after”. On social media, nobody really talks about the journey between the “before” and “after” and sometimes, healing is not linear. You’ll often hear someone on social media say, “Guys, I used this three-step program and my skin cleared in three months.” But what happens if somebody’s acne takes longer to clear? You might think there’s something wrong with you or you’re not good enough. It’s so important for people to realise that just because something works for somebody else on social media, that doesn’t mean it will work for you – and if it doesn’t, it’s not your fault.

It’s also important to know how to look for ingredients and understand the percentages. Ten per cent of something might work for your friend, but it might not work for you.

We try to be as transparent as possible and it’s why we list the percentages of our key ingredients on the packaging, so people know exactly what they’re buying. We’re also one of the few brands that have the steps listed on the front of the package. Step one is the cleanser. Step two is the mist or toner. Step three is the serum. I just want to make the whole experience really easy for people.

YOU’VE BEEN ON A REAL PERSONAL JOURNEY SINCE YOU LAUNCHED ALLIES OF SKIN, WHICH WAS REALLY BORN OUT OF YOUR TRAUMA AND VULNERABILITY. THAT WAS ONLY SIX YEARS AGO. HOW HAVE YOU EVOLVED PERSONALLY IN THAT TIME? Thank you for asking. I love that question so much. When I started the line, I poured my whole life into it and it’s been healing. Today, I just got a message from my customer service team that said, “Hi, I’m going through chemo and I’m so happy that I found your brand. It’s the best product I’ve ever used. Even though I’m going through chemo, my skin is still glowing.”

Even though I was 19 at the time and I’m 35 now, I’m still healing and hearing stories like that helps me. My pain had a purpose and I know I’m on the right path. ■ YOU GREW UP WITH SOME QUITE SERIOUS ACNE ISSUES. CAN YOU TELL ME ABOUT THAT EXPERIENCE AND HOW IT’S SHAPED HOW YOU APPROACH YOUR CONSUMERS AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE BUSINESS?

My approach has always been one of servitude. I had really bad acne as a

I ALSO FEEL LIKE TRADITIONALLY, THERE WEREN’T A LOT OF ASPIRATIONAL BRANDS THAT FOCUS ON ACNE. THEY WERE ALWAYS SEEN AS BEING MORE FUNCTIONAL RATHER THAN SEXY. WHAT ARE YOUR VIEWS ON HOW THE INDUSTRY HAS CHANGED IN THAT REGARD?

I think it’s changing for the positive, but I

Hui-Miller is content and
at retail
agency, The General Store. Contact: jo-anne.hui-miller@thegstore.com.au
Jo-Anne
insights director
strategy
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |31 BUSINESS

Barbiecore

Runway Room Toffee Cream Lip Gloss - www.runwayroom.com

Milani Cheek Kiss Coral Crush - www.milanicosmetics.com

OPI Nail Lacquer in Welcome to Barbie Land - www.opi.net.au

James Time Machine Cleansing Peel-Off Mask - https://aud.jamescosmetics.com

Palm Beach White Rose & Jasmine Fragrance Diffuser - https://palmbeachcollection.com.au

Mavala Silicium Mini Bio-Color Nail Polish in Amazonas - https://frenchbeautyco.com.au

Sunday Riley Pink Drink Firming Resurfacing Essence - https://sundayriley.com

Lanolips Glossy Balms Candy Bonbon - https://lanolips.com.au

Go Bare Repair Cream - https://gobare.com.au

Fresh Rose Instant Hydration Mist - www.sephora.com.au

Real Techniques Skincare Brush Duo Prep - https://realtechniques.com.au

32| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023
beauty
Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

We Are Feel Good Inc Signature Lip Balm SPF 50+ - www.wearefeelgoodinc.com.au

People All-In-One Leave In Treatment - www.peoplehaircare.co

Lust Minerals Pressed Powder Mineral Foundation - https://lustminerals.com.au

My Beauty Tools Rose Quartz Gua Sha - www.chemistwarehouse.com.au

MCo Beauty Super Glow Bronzing Drops in Bronze - https://mcobeauty.com

Glasshouse Fragrances Dreamhouse Strawberry & Dream - www.glasshousefragrances.com

A’Naturel Skincare Strawberry Glow Mask - https://anaturel.co

Burt’s Bees Watermelon & Mint Hand Cream - www.burtsbees.com

Holme Beauty Cream Blush in Gemma - https://holmebeauty.com

Lycon Skin Eye Lifting Gel Crème Serum - https://lycon.com.au

1000Hour Facial Cleansing Brush Duo - https://1000hour.com.au

Dr Naomi Lift Off Firming Super Oil - https://drnaomi.com

Jelly Ko Gelato Glaze Lip Mask - https://jellyko.com

Innisfree Essential Shadow Palette 2 - https://au.innisfree.com

Bali Body BB Cream SPF 15 - https://au.balibodyco.com

Vegamour Gro Hair Serum - https://au.vegamour.com

Ecoya Fragranced Hand Cream Sweet Pea & Jasmine - www.ecoya.com.au

Because there is no such thing as too much pink.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |33

HOW RETAIL BEAUTY BUSINESSES CAN optimise

supply chain and inventory management

In the dynamic landscape of the beauty retail industry, the significance of reliable supply chains cannot be overstated.

34| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 BUSINESS

As recent events have highlighted, the global supply chain ecosystem faces unprecedented challenges that have farreaching implications for businesses worldwide. From disruptions caused by natural disasters to unforeseen political and economic shifts, the industry’s ability to maintain a steady flow of products from manufacturers to retailers is crucial for maintaining customer satisfaction and sustaining profitability. As businesses navigate this ever-evolving environment, the effective management of supply chains emerges as a key determinant of success in the beauty retail sector.

For beauty merchants, out-of-stock and overstocked products are notably some of the biggest challenges faced with inventory planning. Some reports estimate these issues cost the industry $1.8 trillion a year globally due to inventory distortion — a situation when a retailer has too many or too few items in their inventory.

A relatively simple way to solve these problems is to facilitate greater collaboration between business units and the supply chain. This approach allows businesses to think ahead and predict potential disruptions across the supply chain, ultimately contributing to improved inventory planning. Below are three tips for businesses looking to utilise a collaborative strategy for effective supply chain planning.

1.

IMPROVE COMMUNICATION FOR INFORMED INVENTORY DECISIONS

Removing siloes between the different retail business departments will create more transparent communication and streamline operations. When working collaboratively, separate business units will exist in a harmonious feedback loop, providing each other with essential information for more informed operational decisions.

Efficient communication between departments can provide key logistical indicators that can be used to inform manufacturing quotas and keep inventory at feasible levels. These indicators include stock rotations, on-time and in-full deliveries, lead times, warehousing costs and capacity utilisation, working capital position and product margins.

For example, recent ABS data has shown a spike in clothing and jewellery

sales across department stores earlier this year. By planning inventory to meet consumer demand, retailers can ensure more in-demand and trending products are available in-store as opposed to e-commerce.

errors, a supply planning control tower is an ideal solution to aid better multienterprise collaboration.

RESPOND TO SHIFTING CONSUMER BEHAVIOURS

Consumer behaviours and priorities change at lightning speed, and beauty retailers and pharmacies can no longer rely on historical data to inform future planning. For example, when face masks first got introduced as a pandemic measure, e-commerce merchant Adore Beauty saw lipstick sales plummet 21% from February to April 2020. If beauty retailers relied on historical data when planning for these months, they would have had excess makeup sitting on shelves for months, contributing to overstocking and resulting in many products going past their expiration date.

In this instance, ‘what-if’ scenario planning is invaluable for beauty businesses to forecast inventory across the entire supply chain network. Scenario planning examines internal and external data to outline different industry responses to potential disruptive factors. By performing this exercise, retailers will be ready to react holistically when disruptions hit.

When beauty retail giant Sephora centralised its data on a connected planning platform in place of disparate and fragmented spreadsheets, it experienced the ability to simulate what-if scenarios more accurately. The company was able to consolidate data on foot traffic and customer shopping behaviours to conduct scenario planning to determine the prime location for opening its new retail store.

2. 3.

A supply planning control tower is a centralised, cloud-based location where systems, stakeholders and suppliers can collaborate. Companies can then merge internal and external data from buyers, suppliers, warehousing and distribution from unifying siloed systems into a single data platform. This allows for deeper and more precise analyses to be developed.

From here, every retailer can access information more easily and efficiently, allowing for better-informed decisions. For example, Sephora uses a similar system to communicate and share insights with its stakeholders. By moving away from different sources of truth to utilising the same platform for reporting and data sharing, Sephora and its parent company, LVMH, have fostered greater collaboration. LVMH can now access precise data in real-time, allowing for more accurate and faster reporting systems.

While retail supply chains have improved since the pandemic, they are volatile in nature, with disrupting global factors dating as far back as the 1970s. More recently, the prices of beauty products in Australia have increased by up to 30 per cent due to supply chain disruptions. Planning ahead for potential supply chain disruptions will help businesses avoid costly mistakes and reduce the likelihood of supply chain-related costs being passed on to end consumers. Ultimately, this will help retail businesses better retain a loyal customer base and hold on to market share.

Collaboration, scenario planning and a centralised view of data could be the key to resolving global supply chain challenges and disruptions of the future. Focusing on the above tips will ultimately help retail beauty businesses meet customer demand and make inventory planning more seamless. ■

CREATE A SUPPLY PLANNING CONTROL TOWER

Working with different companies across the supply chain often means having several sources of truth, with data being collected and stored differently by each entity. Traditionally, trying to foster collaboration in these situations would require manually inputting data in spreadsheets, which is time-consuming and often mistake-prone. To avoid these

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |35 BUSINESS
Dr Deborah Pike is Supply Chain Solutions Consultant of Anaplan

STYLE & SUBSTANCE

Eye-catching in-store design and displays are vital for a superior shopping experience. In a highly competitive retail environment, beauty and health brands have to attract maximum attention, build brand equity and ensure they stand out from others in the category. Over the past 10 years, Point Retail, the specialist retail strategy, design and production agency, has established a strong reputation as a go-to destination for providing turnkey solutions for displays, pop-ups and more from concept to installation for health and beauty brands of all sizes from market leaders to niche.

Nathan Tindall and Gary Irwig, Co-Directors of Point Retail, have worked in the retail display and marketing industry for more than 20 years. “We both started our careers working for companies producing displays for L’Oréal,” says Tindall. “We met in 2010 and founded Point Retail in 2014 after identifying a gap in the market. Our combined skillsets give us a real edge. My strengths are creative strategy and concept design and Gary’s focus is production management, engineering and operations-related areas. The company’s first clients were in the health and beauty category and we quickly started working for a number of brands developing and producing displays for pharmacy chains and department stores.”

THINKING GLOBALLY, ACTING LOCALLY/ STRONG RELATIONSHIPS WITH RETAILERS

Tindall worked for Point Retail’s UK office for six years and built up a strong track record with beauty clients. Invaluable international experience that has enhanced the company’s appeal to local clients. “I did a lot of work for Estée Lauder across all their portfolio of brands developing retail solutions from pop-up retail to beauty counters, kiosks and POS displays,” he says. “A major highlight was the Boots reinvention project, launched at Covent Garden in London in 2019, which gave me a great insight into the

POINT RETAIL UPS THE ANTE FOR IN-STORE DISPLAY, EXECUTION AND DESIGN

potential of beauty retail and its exciting future in Australia.”

Point Retail has developed a core team of talented industrial designers and project managers augmented by a wider team of production and logistics partners. The company specialises in high-impact displays used in many of Australia’s leading retailers, including Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, Terry White Chemmart, Sephora, Mecca and department stores. “One of our core advantages is our relationships with key retailers,” says Irwig. “They are all different and we are able to customise to suit them individually. They determine what goes where and it’s crucial to know what each retailer will approve to fast-track projects for our clients.”

RESULTS-DRIVEN APPROACH/ INDEPTH KNOWLEDGE

Developing on-going relationships and involvement with brands is also essential for long term business success. “We have worked with McPherson’s Consumer Products, for example, since 2015,” says Irwig. “One of the most successful projects involved the Manicare, Lady Jayne and Glam by Manicare brands. They had been in Chemist Warehouse for a long time and were successful but wanted to achieve more impact and expand their space. We managed the process seamlessly from designing and producing the new units to warehousing and managing the logistics and installation. We have made more than 1200 units across the brands, installed nationally throughout the Chemist Warehouse network, and all three brands have enjoyed sales uplift.”

36| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 INTERVIEW

Point Retail’s results-driven approach has fuelled the company’s growth and the team has worked with more than 200 clients across market sectors and product categories over the past 10 years. “A strong understanding of the retail environment across formats gives the team an advantage when it comes to developing new projects and also understanding what the physical constraints are. Equally, what boundaries can be pushed to achieve more stand out for the brand and increased engagement with shoppers,” adds Tindall.

Tindall and Irwig are both industrial designers, which gives Point Retail an important advantage “It’s a very distinguishing factor and one of the many things brands appreciate is our ability not only to come up with highly creative concepts, but also to develop high quality manufactured displays, delivering projects on time and on budget,” says Irwig. “Whether we are working for marketleading or smaller brands, we can turn around briefs very quickly from the first approach to installation.”

STAYING AHEAD OF TRENDS/ FUTUREPROOFING STRATEGIES

Tracking current and future trends keeps Point Retail in the box seat. Masstige beauty products are on a roll worldwide and it’s not hard to see why. They offer high performance, quality products for affordable prices and their upmarket packaging mimics their luxury counterparts. “From our experience with both prestige and mass beauty brands the growth of the masstige beauty market is a very exciting prospect, allowing more aspirational brands to become more relatable and household name brands to elevate their profile,” says Tindall. “Boots

in the UK, Ulta Beauty in the US and Douglas in Europe showcase the trend. What has been achieved by the Ultra Beauty team at Chemist Warehouse also identifies the potential for beauty retail in the domestic market, especially in pharmacy and discount department stores.”

In addition to delivering innovation, cutting-edge design and added value, Point Retail is also expert at future-proofing displays. “Display units are a major investment for brands and they need to be confident that their choices are able to stand the test of time,” says Irwig.

Point Retail specialises in displays that can be refreshed over an extended lifetime in-store to keep brands looking on-trend and delivering on ROI. Smart design solutions that are not only visually engaging, but also provide results and strengthen a brand’s retail presence, says Tindall. “Our team creates a framework that offers brand flexibility through a skeleton-to-skin design that can adapt to time and changes. A creative process which boosts sales and engagement with shoppers to ensure tangible results.”

STREAMLINED PROCESS/ TURNKEY SERVICE

Clients often have to juggle competing responsibilities and are looking for a streamlined pathway to achieving the most out of their in-store display budgets. Point Retail ensures that working with them is as hassle-free as possible while producing a superior outcome. The company is noted for its ability to develop concepts very quickly to present to a brand’s team and also work with retailers for approval.

“Firstly, we agree on costs and the engineering team develop detailed drawings specifying sizes and materials for final confirmation,” says Tindall. “We establish a timeline and start production of a prototype, which is critical to ensuring success and allows all stakeholders to make final amendments before going into production. We then manage the project to meet key date requirements and confirm delivery details to the brand team or often implement a full rollout including merchandising.”

DIGITAL FOCUS - NEW DISPLAY TO MARKET

According to a report from McKinsey & Company, digital-first and omnichannel retailers represent the new normal and consumers worldwide now want to blend digital and physical shopping experiences.

Point Retail believes the integration of digital components into retail displays is key to driving future consumer engagement and delivering on omnichannel aims for brands and retailers. By integrating digital components into displays the company can incorporate moving content and sound and also provide updates for campaigns and offers more efficiently in a costeffective manner.

Point Retail is bringing a new batterypowered digital display to market, says Tindall. “It has a screen built into a core skeleton with the ability to be dressed up with high impact, printed brand messaging and visuals. The motion sensor digital screen runs on a battery pack that can be customised to suit POS update cycles and can last for up to three months before a refresh. It’s a solution that can be made with shelves or hangsell options and has many applications from a small footprint to suit pharmacy to supermarkets. This forms part of a suite of display products with multiple applications from on shelf or counter to freestanding units to create stand out and drive engagement with enhanced digital capabilities.”

The Point Retail team has worked on hundreds of projects and can develop any project whatever the size or quantity from a large pop-up store to the rollout of shelf-ready trays or production of detailed cosmetic display stands. A full turnkey service that achieves successful, highquality, proven results, that’s the Point! ■

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |37 INTERVIEW
Nathan Tindall and Gary Irwig, Co-Directors of Point Retail

Fresh spring ,looks STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNWAY

Afterpay Australian Fashion Week (AAFW), is well and truly over but the captivating makeup trends unveiled on the runway are here to stay, leaving an enduring influence.

In an exclusive interview, Tashi Jade Bell sits down with Lancôme’s Beauty Director, Lara Srokowski, to delve into the captivating makeup looks she crafted for the prestigious event.

COULD YOU GIVE ME A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO YOUR BACKGROUND AND YOUR ROLE WITH LANCÔME?

My journey with Lancôme spans around 13 years. I’ve cultivated a strong foundation in the beauty industry, and my passion for Lancôme has always been steadfast. My career kick-started as a Senior Makeup Artist for Lancôme in Perth, followed by education roles in Sydney. I then transitioned to become the National Makeup Artist, leading me to Melbourne. During the pandemic, I ascended to the position of Beauty Director, encompassing all things related to beauty within the brand. My artistic spirit has always thrived in creative domains.

YOUR SENSE OF FASHION SURELY HAS ITS SYNERGY WITH YOUR WORK FOR AAFW. HOW DOES YOUR PERSONAL STYLE CONTRIBUTE TO YOUR WORK WITH DESIGNERS?

AAFW radiates a unique energy that I truly cherish. Collaborating with designers is a joy because, on occasions, I get the opportunity to be dressed by them. This collaboration is immensely rewarding and invigorating, nurturing a creative partnership.

“The common thread among these looks was the ‘Lancôme Skin’ signature trend—a luminous, dewy complexion achieved using Lancôme’s glowing skin trio...”
90’s wet grunge look. Coral eye look. 80’s ombre eye look
38| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 TRENDS
From left: Advanced Génifique Serum, Rénergie H.C.F Triple Serum, Teint Idole Ultra Wear Care & Glow Foundation.

YOU CURATED 10 STUNNING LOOKS FOR AAFW, INCLUDING THE ‘BLUNT GRAPHIC EYELINER’ FOR MICHAEL LO SORDO AND THE ‘80’S OMBRÉ LIP’ FOR HENNE. CAN YOU WALK US THROUGH THE DIVERSE LOOKS?

This year was exceptional, as Lancôme assumed the coveted role of Official Beauty Partner for the week, allowing us to participate in prominent IMG Fashion Shows. The common thread among these looks was the ‘Lancôme Skin’ signature trend—a luminous, dewy complexion achieved using Lancôme’s glowing skin trio: Advanced Génifique, Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum, and Teint Idôle Ultra Wear Care and Glow Foundation. We aimed for a fresh, radiant finish by layering the serum and foundation for a glassy effect. Amidst this, we played with statement eyes and lips.

For Michael Lo Sordo’s Opening Show, inspired by ‘Parisian by Day and Night’, I departed from the conventional winged eyeliner. Utilising Lancôme’s Idôle Liner, I created a ‘blunt graphic eyeliner’ with a square shape at the base merging into a traditional wing. This Parisian liner had a grunge edge, resonating with Michael’s vision.

A standout look was the ‘80’s Ombré Lip’ for Henne—a personal favourite. Taking the classic bold lip and infusing it

with ombré flair was an exciting twist. We blended L’absolu Rouge Drama Matte Lipsticks 505, 507, and 510 to craft a multidimensional effect. To intensify the edge, I employed a deep brown chocolate eyeliner for crisp definition.

Another highlight was the CUE show. We crafted a dark, smoky 90’s-inspired eye, reminiscent of a ‘slept-in’ smoky eye, enhanced with a gloss finish just before the runway. This glamour-meets-grunge look was a showstopper, perfectly echoing CUE’s statement.

For Joslin, a ‘burnt coral eye’ created using lipstick and balm captured a fresh summer vibe. And for the Indigenous Projects show, diversity reigned, featuring skin-focused looks, bold lips, and vibrant fuchsia eyes.

My design for the Bianca Spender show showcased fresh skin complemented by a subtle silver eyeliner, achieved using Lancôme’s Hypnôse Eye Palette in 14 Smokey Chic and the Absolue Revitalising Anti-Aging Eye Serum, creating a vibrant liquid eyeshadow.

downsizing the intensity of smoky eyes or wings, allowing the radiant skin to shine. For a personalised touch, mix Teint Idôle Ultra Wear Care and Glow Foundation with Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum, offering SPF protection and skincare benefits in one.

WHAT MAKEUP AND SKINCARE TRENDS DO YOU FORESEE ON THE HORIZON?

Pink and coral monochromatic looks, incorporating blush across the eyes, lips, and cheeks, will thrive. Healthy, glowing skin remains a timeless trend. Layering serums, and the rise of peptides, like in Lancôme’s Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream, will gain momentum, offering versatility and rejuvenation. ■

As the seasons shift, skin takes centre stage. Embrace Lancôme’s glowing skin trio for that lightweight, glassy finish—perfect for the warmer months. Additionally, consider

AS WE MOVE TOWARDS SPRING AND SUMMER, WHAT TIPS DO YOU HAVE FOR RECREATING THESE RUNWAY LOOKS?
Silver eyeliner. 80’s ombre lip look Blunt graphic eye.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |39
L’absolu Rouge, Teint eyeliner, Hypnôse eyeshadow palette.
TRENDS

INDULGE

SKINCEUTICALS HYDRATING B5 MASQUE SKINCEUTICALS.COM.AU LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTI-ACNE PURIFYING CLAY MASK LAROCHE-POSAY.COM.AU AVÈNE ANTIROUGEURS CALM REDNESS-RELIEF SOOTHING MASK AVENE.COM.AU AUGUSTINUS

BADER THE FACE CREAM MASK MECCA.COM.AU ASPECT EXFOLIATING CLAY MASK ASPECTSKINCARE.COM.AU

SKINCEUTICALS PHYTO CORRECTIVE MASQUE SKINCEUTICALS.COM.AU CULTURED BIOME ONE MASK MECCA.COM.AU

KIEHL’S AVOCADO NOURISHING HYDRATION MASK KIEHLS.COM.AU

40| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 FEATURE

EFFICACIOUS SKINCARE MASKS TO CREATE HEALTHY, RADIANT-LOOKING SKIN

The recent pandemic propelled our enduring focus on self-care, wellness, and safety. Around the globe, the editorial highway created awareness about the ‘kindness’ we owe to ourselves, and each other. During extensive lockdown periods, our ‘at-home’ skincare rituals provided much needed levity. Fuelled by the expertise of skincare professionals including dermatologists, estheticians, and cosmetic physicians, the content we consumed, provided valuable ‘intel’ to navigate the saturated skincare arena. The non-negotiables included a gentle but effective pH-balanced cleanser, a skin barrier-loving moisturiser, a prescribed powerhouse serum, and critical (‘rain or shine’) broad spectrum SPF50+ sun protection. Essential basics to create and maintain, healthy, radiant-looking skin. Skincare Masks moved into the spotlight, simply because we had time to ‘stop and sit’. Inspired by ‘stillness’ and an unapologetic love of selfindulgence, this Editorial Feature unveils the benefits of efficacious ‘non-sheet’ Masks. Understand the science, take note of the expert dermatological insights, and discover the recommended ‘tried and tested’ products, to complement your skincare routine.

THE SCIENCE EXPLAINED

“Facial skincare masks occlude the skin – in simpler terms, they create a temporary barrier between the external environment (air), and the formula’s ingredients. This barrier inhibits evaporation, and encourages key ingredients to penetrate the outer layers of the skin, to deliver targeted benefits”, explains dermatologist, Dr Cara McDonald (Complete Skin Specialists, VIC). When it comes to selecting a Mask, the market can seem overwhelming, and full of ‘broken promises’. Assisting consumers should commence with identifying their skin type, and recommending a Mask to address the following key concerns – ageing/dehydrated skin,

lack-lustre/pigmented skin, sensitised/compromised skin, and congested/oily skin prone to breakouts. Dr McDonald’s star ingredients include: plumping Hyaluronic Acid, and moisturising Glycerin to restore hydration; Vitamin E (Tocopherol), a potent antioxidant to prevent cellular damage; resurfacing AHAs, and Retinol to address the look of fine lines and wrinkles; Ceramides, and Pro-Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), to soothe and strengthen the skin barrier; brightening Vitamins C and B3 (Niacinamide), to restore clarity; purifying Kaolin Clay, and BHAs (such as Salicylic Acid), to decongest oliy skin prone to blemishes.

ANTI-AGEING HEROES

Augustinus Bader The Face Cream Mask is powered by TFC8 - a patented complex, (inspired by 30+ years of research and clinical studies), to hydrate, brighten, firm, and smooth ageing skin. The rich cream texture is formulated with Collagen-boosting Vitamin C, powerful antioxidants including Panax Ginseng, Pomegranate Extract, and pure Vitamin E to combat free-radical damage. Skin-identical Glycerin, firming Hyaluronic Acid, and Squalene assist the skin to attract and maintain vital moisture. A cult favourite at MECCA, this luxurious, anti-ageing hero can be applied for 8-10 minutes, or as an intensive overnight treatment. Kiehl’s Avocado Nourishing Hydration Mask is enriched with Avocado Fruit Extract, and Avocado + Evening Primrose Oils, to moisturise, soften, and restore elasticity. The ultra-creamy formula is also infused with moisturising Glycerin, Shea Butter (a highly regarded, natural emollient), and antioxidant-rich Vitamin E, to promote a visibly smoother-looking complexion. Scoop up a generous amount of the indulgent formula, massage between your fingertips until it feels smooth and creamy, apply a thick layer, and rinse thoroughly after 15 minutes.

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |41 FEATURE

According to Dr McDonald, dull, lack-lustre, pigmented skin can benefit from Masks housing resurfacing AHAs, and brightening incorporates a stellar cast of next-generation fermented actives + acids, to gently exfoliate, propel cell turnover, and restore luminosity. The sublime, jelly-like formula is infused with radiance-boosting Azelaic, Lactic and Malic Acids, to remove dead skin cells and regulate sebum, and Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid and Inulin, to hydrate and moisturise. Malin+Goetz Brightening Enzyme Mask showcases a refreshing, gel texture to cleanse and exfoliate, and is especially suited to combination skin. Star ingredients include Pomegranate + Pumpkin Enzymes, and Pineapple Fruit Extracts to gently resurface and promote cell renewal. Glycerin and Sugarcane Extract provide moisturising benefits, and anti-inflammatory Licorice Extract assists to soothe, and regulate sebum production. Both Masks are ‘bestsellers’ at MECCA, but if you’re looking for an ‘express-worker’ to promote luminosity, the latter can be applied for 5 minutes, to visibly improve skin texture and tone.

MADE FOR SENSITIVE

Take note. ‘Sensitive skin’ is not a skin type, and all skin types can experience sensitivity due to a host of external and/or internal triggers. Although the phrase is all-pervading within the editorial arena and amongst consumers, dermatologists interpret the ailment as skin that tends to be more reactive than average. “When the skin’s crucial protective barrier is compromised, it becomes susceptible to external aggressors including UV exposure, bacteria, and irritating skincare ingredients that can lead to discomfort – including burning, itchiness, and redness”, explains Dr McDonald. The solution? Adopt a ‘less is more’ approach – seek out dermatologist-approved, minimalist formulations to maximise tolerance. SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Masque is powered by Pro-Vitamin B5, Glycerin, and Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate, moisturise and soothe skin, and strengthen its natural barrier. The brand’s highly acclaimed Phyto Corrective Masque is scientifically proven to be suitable for use after mild cosmetic procedures - studies have revealed a 47% reduction in discomfort immediately after use, and a 20% decrease in visible redness. The hydrating, soothing formula is infused with Dipeptide to reduce heat sensitivity, Hyaluronic Acid, and a blend of Green Botanicals including Cucumber, Olive, and Thyme Extracts to provide optimum skin comfort. Prone to itchiness and ‘redness’?

Avène Antirougeurs Calm Redness-Relief Soothing Mask showcases a refreshing gel texture, that offers rapid comfort and hydration for sensitised skin. Powered by the brand’s acclaimed soothing Thermal Spring Water and TRP-Regulin, the innovative formula supports the health of fine surface facial micro-blood vessels, relieves sensations of discomfort, and works swiftly to diminish ‘redness’.

KAOLIN COMMANDOS

“Kaolin Clay (also referred to as China Clay) is a natural, porous mineral clay, renowned for its ability to absorb excess oil, and gently exfoliate skin. Kaolin-based Masks that integrate skin-loving ingredients, can complement an anti-acne skincare regime”, explains Dr McDonald. La Roche-Posay Anti-Acne Purifying Clay Mask is dermatologically tested, and clinically proven to unclog pores, remove impurities, and control shine. Showcasing a blend of Kaolin Clay, Glycerin, and Pro-Vitamin B5, the creamy formula gently removes excess oil, visibly refines pores, and promotes a long-lasting mattified complexion. QV Face Purifying Mask is formulated with Kaolin Clay to absorb dirt and excess oil, and antioxidant-rich Safflower Oil + Vitamin E to moisturise and soften skin. Both Masks are ideal for oily, acne-prone skin, but also suited to normal and combination skin types, to cleanse and decongest. Weekly usage of a Kaolin Clay-based Mask will also amplify the penetration of your treasured skincare arsenal, including moisturisers, serums, and sunscreen. Win! Aspect Exfoliating Clay Mask offers a next-level treatment for oily, acne-prone skin, with a combination of Kaolin and Bentonite Clays, Lactic Acid to exfoliate and refine, and Salicylic Acid to decongest and purify pores. The addition of Aloe Vera, and Green Tea Extracts + Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil, provides anti-inflammatory, soothing benefits. This clever multitasker can also be dabbed onto blemishes as an overnight spot treatment.

LAST WORD

Due to their intensity, skincare Masks can swiftly deliver visible benefits, to promote and maintain a healthy, radiant-looking complexion. Apply a Mask to thoroughly cleansed skin, and adhere to the advised ‘leave-on’ time to avoid irritation. Sweep the Mask down to your neckline, as this often neglected zone, is prone to the signs of ageing - particularly horizontal lines and sagging, due to loss of elasticity, and pigmentation. A weekly application is ideal for Masks infused with anti-ageing, resurfacing actives, whereas those that are designed to address ‘sensitivity’, can be used more frequently to strengthen the skin barrier, and promote comfort. Post-application, rinse thoroughly, and apply your preferred serum and/or moisturiser – during the day, be sure to complete your skincare routine with a broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen, as the last step prior to applying makeup. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF50+ is my ‘go-to’ daily facial sunscreen – the non-irritating, ultra-light, non-greasy formula absorbs quickly, and creates the perfect base for makeup. Consult a skincare professional to identify your skin type, and discuss your key concerns. Research and trial. Your skincare routine is aligned to self-care – the world is spinning, take time to indulge and pamper. Go slow… you’re worth it! ■

42| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 FEATURE

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In the Australian entertainment sphere, Francesca Hung’s versatility shines through roles spanning modeling, acting, presenting, and media personality domains. Her heritage, a blend of Chinese and IrishAustralian roots, adds to her unique beauty. Michelle Ruzzene delves into the captivating story behind the newest ambassador for Swisse Beauty.

5 MINUTES WITH...

Francesca Hung

44| RETAIL
BEAUTY SPRING 2023 INTERVIEW

AS THE WINNER OF MISS UNIVERSE AUSTRALIA AND A PROMINENT MODEL, YOU’VE BECOME AN INSPIRATION TO MANY. TELL US MORE.

Winning Miss Universe Australia was a pivotal moment in my life for several reasons. It became the catalyst for my professional career in hosting, presenting and acting. But on a deeper level, it gave me the platform to celebrate my mixed racial background and encourage young people to do the same in Australia. Growing up I felt like I didn’t see myself represented in the traditional media landscape and now being able to help young people feel represented or perhaps more accepted in our society has been the most rewarding experience for me to date.

HOW DID YOU BECOME ASSOCIATED WITH SWISSE?

I’ve been a fan of the Swisse brand long before becoming an ambassador for Swisse Beauty, so it was such a natural and honest alignment for me. Growing up I always felt that Swisse was such an iconic brand and to now be able to represent it in Australia feels like a pinch me moment. I still get goosebumps when I walk past a poster with my face on it for Swisse, and I always think back to younger me and how beneficial it would have been to see someone like that staring back at me.

WHAT KEY FACTORS DO YOU CONSIDER WHEN DECIDING TO WORK WITH A COMPANY OR BRAND?

A company’s core values are always really important to me when I’m considering working with a brand. I always like to ask myself, ‘How well do I align with the brands focus and what they want to put out into the world?’ I love that Swisse focuses

on wellbeing in such a holistic way, the emphasis is put on how we are looking after ourselves both mentally and physically, those around us and our planet rather than being solely product focused.

CAN YOU SHARE A PIVOTAL MOMENT WHERE YOU HAD TO MAKE A STRATEGIC DECISION THAT SIGNIFICANTLY IMPACTED YOUR PROFESSIONAL PATH?

I can still picture the exact moment I first applied for Miss Universe Australia. I was sitting at my desk working a corporate 9-5 job, whilst still studying for my master’s degree in Publishing and realised that I had to actively push for my dreams rather than sit around and wait for things to happen for me. I was so afraid of failure and or judgment of others that I hadn’t gone after my career dreams and goals. I ended up pushing myself completely out of my comfort zone by applying for Miss Universe Australia, but I have never once looked back as it gave me the confidence to go for what I want in life without always worrying about how others might perceive me.

HOW DO YOU HANDLE NEGATIVE PUBLICITY OR CRITICISM?

Surrounding myself with people that encourage me and lift me up is crucial when dealing with negative publicity or criticism. Also learning to let go... I’ve learnt that you are never going to be able to satisfy every single person, so for me, as long as I’m happy with myself and my own choices in life it’s much easier to block out the outside negativity.

HOW DO YOU NAVIGATE

THE USE OF SOCIAL MEDIA AS A PUBLIC FIGURE, AND WHAT DO YOU BELIEVE ARE THE DO’S AND DON’TS FOR EFFECTIVELY USING SOCIAL PLATFORMS?

with and try and think about the value that I can add when I’m posting. That’s why I love sharing things like ‘A Day in my Life’ or my beauty and fashion tips because that’s what I personally love learning and seeing from other creators I follow.

HOW DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE OF INFLUENCER MARKETING EVOLVING, AND WHAT IMPACT DO YOU THINK IT WILL HAVE ON BUSINESSES AND CONSUMERS?

I think we’ve already seen such a big shift in the way brands and companies market their businesses since the rise of social media. Celebrity endorsements and traditional media outlet marketing is certainly still popular, but I think that younger generations are more heavily influenced by what they see on social media.

I think that the rise of Influencers and influencer marketing has allowed brands to become more accessible and relatable to consumers. For me personally, I love hearing personal recommendations and reviews from my favourite content creators as I find that content much more informative and helpful than the more traditional forms of marketing.

HOW DO YOU SEE YOUR ROLE AS A SWISSE BEAUTY AMBASSADOR COMPLEMENTING YOUR EFFORTS TO MAKE A POSITIVE IMPACT IN THE COMMUNITY?

My role as the Swisse Beauty Ambassador gives me the opportunity to highlight and promote the importance of taking care of one’s health and wellbeing in a much more holistic manner than what we may have seen in the past. I think that the Swisse Beauty core belief that ‘Beauty Begins Within’ is so important and allows me the opportunity to share why Beauty isn’t just what we see from the outside. We live in such a media driven society where young men and women are constantly comparing themselves to what they see on online or judging themselves on a physical level. So, I think that being able to promote beauty as more of feeling from within rather than an external idea can only be making a positive impact on society. ■

I view social media as an incredible opportunity to meet and engage with like-minded people and create supportive and interesting communities. Aside from the obvious don’ts on social media like ‘do no harm’ I think everyone has a different way of effectively using social platforms. I always approach my social media by thinking about what I like to see / engage https://swisse.com.au

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |45 INTERVIEW

Female

Founders

Stacey Hollands, the founder of Lust Minerals, transitioned from her role as a dermal therapist into entrepreneurship with a poignant realisation after the loss of her father at a young age. Stacey identified a gap in the market where quality mineral makeup was often expensive and inaccessible, prompting her to embark on a journey to offer affordable yet high-performing mineral products to a wider audience.

WHEN/WHAT WAS YOUR ‘LIGHTBULB’ MOMENT TO CREATE LUST MINERALS?

Before launching Lust Minerals, I was working as a dermal therapist. It was a time when I had just lost my dad at a young age, and it really made me realise that life is short and there are no second chances, so I think it inspired me to think bigger. When I was growing up, I’d suffered breakouts which, as a teenage girl, made me very self-conscious. Being in the industry, I found so many women were just like me and coming into the salon asking for my help with their skin. A lot of them were using conventional makeup products which was often only worsening the problem. While there were plenty of natural-based products out there, few married ‘clean and ‘high-performance’ to deliver real results. At the time, I noticed that many of the mineral foundations in the market seemed expensive. I remember thinking ‘Why should mineral makeup only be accessible for those who could afford to pay $90 for a foundation?’ I wanted to fix that.

HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE BRAND’S DNA?

I aimed to craft effective products with clean, potent ingredients, and that vision is embodied in our brand name, Lust Minerals. Initially, I noticed that many mineral makeup products lacked concentrated minerals and were diluted with fillers. To address this, I dedicated two years to collaborating with a product developer, investing $10,000 of my savings to create our initial samples. After extensive testing and feedback from friends, family, and clients, we finalised our

46| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 BUSINESS

formulations, ensuring our products met strict guidelines including vegan, crueltyfree, and high-performance criteria. Today, our Lust Minerals range remains Australian-made, free from harmful chemicals and parabens, and designed for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

WHAT BUSINESS CHALLENGES DID YOU OVERCOME WHEN STARTING OUT?

I’ve always looked at challenges as an opportunity to learn and grow — but there were definitely a few moments of self-doubt when I first started out. When Lust Minerals launched, I was wearing all the hats and running every single aspect of the business. I was doing this all whilst I was also working as a beauty therapist and being a mum. I was also up against some big, well-known brands and at times felt like a small fish in a big sea. However, at the same time, this just motivated me to want to work harder to succeed. I invested heavily in mentorship to expand my mindset as both a CEO and a leader to ensure that I show up in the business everyday with consistency, discipline, and confidence to drive the brand to success. I knew we were onto something when we started receiving feedback from customers and seeing their amazing results. Our best-selling product is our Pro Finish Liquid Foundation — we sell one every 2 minutes. We have nearly 5,000 reviews on our site where customers tell us what they think and leave a picture. It really motivates me to keep giving that customer great options which will have a positive, healthy, and visible impact on skin.

HOW MANY PRODUCTS ARE IN THE RANGE TODAY?

Since our initial run of four products back in 2014, our range has significantly grown, and we now have approximately 290 SKUs

across the makeup, skin and body range today. We currently have six Australian manufacturers for different product lines across our range, to whom I have a close relationship with. It was important to me that they aligned with my values, and the values of the brand. This year is going to be our biggest and best yet. We are really focusing on our plans to refine our existing product portfolio even further and expand into international markets to share our message of clean beauty with the world. As a brand, we are continuing to heavily invest in developing new products, and reformulating existing products to ensure we are pioneering the most effective clean beauty products on the market.

HOW DO YOU COMPETE WITH THE BIG, MULTINATIONAL BEAUTY BRANDS?

In the beginning I started in the B2B salon market as this was an industry, I was very familiar with. Then we started to notice the emergence of ecommerce late 2018 and knew that we needed to continue to expand to achieve our vision. Investing in influencer marketing and using social media as a tool super charged our growth. After years of preparation, in 2021 and 2022, Lust Minerals underwent a vibrant rebranding initiative, as I wanted to depart from the typical plain and neutral colour schemes commonly associated with mineral beauty brands. My goal from the beginning was to ensure that anyone who made the switch to clean beauty, didn’t have to sacrifice aesthetics.

YOU’RE ON TRACK TO HIT 10+ MILLION BY THE END OF FY2023WHAT ARE SOME SECRETS TO YOUR BRAND’S SUCCESS?

When I reflect on where we started nine years ago, it was myself running the business as a “side gig” while I saw clients for skin treatments during the day, with the product stocked in a linen cupboard in my home. Today, we’ve moved into two different warehouses, a beautiful Lust-pink office and more than 20 staff members who are on this journey with me. It’s grown in ways that I never even dreamed of.

TELL US ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY.

We are continuing to evolve as a brand to ensure we are always prioritising environmental sustainability and ethical sourcing practices. Earlier this year we partnered with TerraCycle and One Tree Planted as part of our new sustainability

Stacey’s Top 5 business tips

1. Understand your community. You need to be able to understand what they want and what they need and what their pain points are. You, as a brand, can then develop products to solve their problems.

2. Get clear on your purpose, and what your point of difference is as a brand and lead with integrity.

3. Honesty and integrity. Stay true to who you are as a brand, and your values – dare to be different.

4. Keep your finger on the pulse with industry trends and always think ahead – otherwise you may fall behind.

5. Feedback is an opportunity to learn and grow, and to do better.

program. Through the partnership with TerraCycle customers are encouraged to return five, used full sized Lust Minerals products to us to recycle and in return, we gift customers a free Lust Minerals product as an incentive to encourage them to participate. Customers are also encouraged to recycle other brands’ beauty products, and for every 10 products that they recycle, we offer a $30 Lust Minerals Voucher. These used, empty products are collected through a Zero Waste Box and are then sent back to TerraCycle for them to sort and process into raw materials that can be reused, instead of being sent to landfill. ■

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |47 BUSINESS

Insights from a makeup chair

The media’s influence on our perception of beauty and attractiveness has always been profound, and one area where this impact is particularly concerning is the glamorisation of tanning. From advertisements to social media, the ‘bronzed Aussie’ ideal has been promoted relentlessly, contributing to a dangerous and widespread behaviour – excessive sun exposure. As someone with a Stage IV Melanoma diagnosis, I have experienced firsthand how the media’s portrayal of tanning can perpetuate harmful attitudes and behaviours.

OPINION
48| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

Recently I appeared live on a TV news program to speak about the glamourisation of tanning in advertising. I arrived at the station much earlier than required so I had the opportunity to have my makeup done before I went on air. I was explaining to the makeup artist why I was appearing on the show and told her about my Stage IV Melanoma diagnosis.

I was in the chair for quite a while, and she continued to keep adding foundation to my face. I watched my face getting darker and darker, and I was uncomfortable with what I was seeing. I couldn’t go onto a national news program to discuss the dangers associated with the glamourisation of tanning, with a skin tone that was not naturally mine.

I pointed this out to her, and she replied, ‘Good point’ and went about changing the colour to a more natural tone.

What she had done was instinctive. Being a ‘bronzed Aussie’ is so ingrained in our culture that she automatically wanted to make me appear more tanned.

The media and advertising industries have played a significant part in creating this ‘bronzed Aussie’ ideal since as far back as Federation. They were responsible for commentary on and promotion of an ideal Australian ‘race’ which included being tanned and fit.

There has been debate in the advertising industry as to whether it actually creates culture, or just holds a mirror up to it. My observations from having worked in the industry is that people switch sides of the debate when it best serves their objectives – a client’s feedback on a creative idea that the agency believes is the best solution, might prompt the response “we’re not creating the cultural standard, we’re just reflecting it” and yet how many creative briefs and ideas have been bought based on the promise of shifting the cultural norm?

Let’s accept, for argument’s sake that the industry is just holding the mirror up. When it becomes apparent that holding the mirror up is fuelling dangerous behaviours, shouldn’t we stop it or at least follow some guidelines? In a similar way that has been done for smoking or the reportage of suicide?

Or what if we discovered that the mirror is inadequate, that it doesn’t show the full picture? Shouldn’t we change the angle of the mirror, so we see the true breadth of reality? Like we are trying to achieve

with gender equality and diversity, racism, ageism and other stereotypes? In these cases, both the media and advertising have been encouraged to, and in some cases, have driven the adoption of positive role modelling to reflect this diversity.

Why then shouldn’t the same be done for sun exposure? Especially when skin cancer kills more people each year than die on our roads and two out of every three Australians will be diagnosed with it before they turn 70.

Research has consistently found there is a direct link between seeing tanned bodies in media and advertising and an individual’s subsequent intentions and behaviours when it comes to tanning1. The image doesn’t need to be of someone tanning to have this influence. Just seeing tanned people in the media places a value on tanning which leads to increased sun exposure and less sun protection2

The impact of images and narratives in advertising and media can have a cumulative and lasting effect to the point that observing individuals with tanned skin in the media can project this as being the social norm3

Adolescents particularly, seek to emulate what they see in the media when it comes to tanning and attractiveness ideals. When they see happy, attractive, successful people in the media who are tanned, they internalise the ideal of being tanned. They believe, in order to be like these people in the media, they need to look tanned like them too4

Whilst the media world has changed significantly in the last 15 years, its influence on tanning ideals hasn’t. Social media is pervasive in its influence on tanning, the more time adolescents spend on social media is positively associated with more sun exposure, less sun protection and increased skin tone dissatisfaction5

The popularity of reality TV programming has also created what could be termed the ‘Kardashian effect”. A research study in Belgium found that women who watch reality TV come to recognise that there is an appearance standard for skin tone, and once they accept that, they go on to view themselves in terms of their appearance instead of their personality6

The good news is attitudes and behaviours towards sun protection are always open to being changed by the prevailing influences7. The same study that found showing an image of an attractive tanned person will influence tanning behaviours, also found that showing the image of an attractive person without a tan led to less tanning, increased sun protection and improved ‘image norms’ of paleness8

The advertising and media industries need to understand the role they are playing in Australia’s skin cancer issue and start making changes.

Change can start in small ways, just like it did with me and the makeup artist. ■

Anne Gately is a Skin Cancer Prevention Advocate

1McWhirter et al 2013 Systematic review of population-based studies on the impact of images on UV attitudes and behaviours. White et al 2008 Exploring Young People’s Beliefs and Images About Sun Safety. 2Cafri et al 2006 Appearance Reasons for Tanning Mediate the Relationship Between Media Influence and UV Exposure and Sun Protection. 3Thomas et al 2016 Why do young adults tan? 4Eastabrook et al 2016. Melanoma risk: adolescent females’ perspectives on skin protection pre/post-viewing a ultraviolet photoaged photograph of their own facial sun damage. 5Mingoia et al 2017 Use of social networking sites and associations with skin tone dissatisfaction, sun exposure, and sun protection in a sample of Australian adolescents. 6Trekels et al 2017 Beaty ideals from Reality Television and Young Women’s Tanning Behaviour: An Internalisation and Self-Objectification Perspective. 7Dobbinson et 2008 Weekend sun protection and sunburn in Australia trends (1987–2002) and association with SunSmart television advertising. 8McWhirter et al 2013 Systematic review of population-based studies on the impact of images on UV attitudes and behaviours. White et al 2008 Exploring Young People’s Beliefs and Images About Sun Safety.

OPINION
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |49
“What she had done was instinctive. Being a ‘bronzed Aussie’ is so ingrained in our culture that she automatically wanted to make me appear more tanned.”

Crackers for Christmas

Offering a gift that gave back as the perfect solution last year, Look Good Feel Better produced multi-branded Christmas Crackers filled with a mix of fullsized and deluxe sample-sized products from leading cosmetic brands. The crackers were valued at over $100 each but sold for just $20, and 100 per cent of the sale price supported the Look Good Feel Better program.

Thirteen brands generously came on board to provide the stock, and the team from Go-To Skincare rolled up their sleeves and volunteered their time to help with packing.

The crackers proved a sell-out success, so from September this year a limited supply of 5,000 units will once again be available, direct from Look Good Feel Better.

Look Good Feel Better’s Partnerships

Manager, Danielle Lill is keen to engage with brands and companies who are interested in getting involved in the production of this year’s crackers.

Danielle said, “We’re excited to be offering our Christmas Crackers again this year, and even more excited to work with generous brands who want to contribute to our program in a unique way, whether that’s through stock donation or volunteering of time.

“Each cracker will include a minimum of six products from a variety of brands and will retail for $20, so stock donations can include one item or a mix of items or SKUs, up to a maximum quantity of 5,000.”

Having donated stock last year, Janis McNicholas, Head of Medical Sales & Training from Eau Thermale Avène said “We have been a long-time supporter of Look Good Feel Better, providing quality products for inclusion in their Confidence Kits that directly support those undergoing treatment for cancer. Through the launch of the Christmas Cracker initiative, we were able to increase our support and assist in their fundraising efforts. We were thrilled to hear of the sell-out success in 2022 and didn’t hesitate to put our support behind the initiative again in 2023.”

Of course, with the ambitious goal of doubling the available quantity of crackers, the small team at the charity is looking for extra hands to help ensure another year of success. As a great opportunity for corporate volunteering, teams of up to 8 people are encouraged to give a half or full day of their time for a great cause.

Go-To’s Chief Marketing Officer, Leonie Faddy said, “An important part of the Go-To ethos is a sense of community and giving-back, so we were thrilled to support Look Good Feel Better and their Christmas Cracker initiative through the coordination of volunteer teams to assist with production. Our team loved knowing their time was going towards supporting cancer patients across Australia, and that our product was part of this incredible initiative.”

Look Good Feel Better’s Christmas Crackers will raise $100,000 for the charity, funding their free face-to-face workshops, virtual workshops and Home-Delivered Confidence Kits for those undergoing cancer treatment across Australia. ■

To pre-order crackers, discuss the donation of stock, or volunteer to help with packing, please visit lgfb.org.au/christmascrackers

As Christmas sneaks up each year, there’s often a lastminute head scratch and scramble for stocking fillers or smaller gifts for colleagues, friends or family.
LG FB CH RI ST M AS BON BON 20 22 : MO CK UP
Go-To Skincare rolled up their sleeves and volunteered their time to help with packing.
50| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 CHARITY

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Retail Beauty is an essential tool for brands and retailers to educate, inspire and support their sales force – and ultimately sell more products. Retail Beauty is the go-to for the wider beauty industry to stay on top of global and local trends, news and launches. We communicate directly and daily to key industry professionals and decision makers.

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FRAGRANCE OSCARS THE of

MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR

Paco Rabanne Invictus, Puig, www.puig.com

CONSUMER CHOICE

MEN’S UNIVERSAL

Ralph Lauren Polo Blue Parfum –L’Oréal, www.chemistwarehouse. com.au/ultra-beauty

PACKAGING OF THE YEAR

PRESTIGE/POPULAR

Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau, www.puig.com

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR

PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE

BDK Parfums Gris Charnel Extrait de Parfum, www.libertineparfumerie.com.au

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR

MEN’S LUXURY

Tom Ford Noir Extreme Parfum

The Estée Lauder Companies, www.esteelauder.com.au

INDIE FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR

Amouage Opus XIV Royal Tobacco Oman Perfumery, www.libertineparfumerie.com.au

52| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 FRAGRANCE
Photography: Brandee Meier. Concept and product curation: Michelle Ruzzene.

The Fragrance Foundation Awards are held every year to recognise and honour outstanding achievements in perfumery and fragrance-related categories. This year marked the 50th anniversary of the awards, where L’Oréal CEO Nicolas Hieronimus was awarded the 2023 Hall of Fame gong, which was presented by Cate Blanchett, while Anne Flipo, netted the Lifetime Achievement Perfumer Award.

PACKAGING OF THE YEAR

LUXURY

Christian Louboutin Loubimar Puig/ Christian Louboutin, www.puig.com

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR UNIVERSAL PRESTIGE

Maison Margiela Replica

When the Rain Stops L’Oréal, www.loreal.com.au

PACKAGING OF THE YEAR POPULAR

Billie Eilish No 2 Parlux, www.priceline.com.au

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR UNIVERSAL LUXURY

Gucci The Alchemist’s Garden –Tears from the Moon – Coty www.coty.com

FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME

Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum – L’Oréal, www.chemistwarehouse.com.au/ ultra-beauty

FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR POPULAR

Nest New York Golden Nectar

Eau de Parfum, www.sephora.com.au

FRAGRANCE RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |53

Who is Elijah

A JOURNEY FROM COACHELLA’S DANCE FLOOR TO NICHE FRAGRANCE SUCCESS

In 2017, on the vibrant dance floor of Coachella, an encounter with a mesmerising oil fragrance sparked the lightbulb moment for Raquel Bouris. Since being established in 2018, Who is Elijah has been redefining the boundaries of masculinity and femininity through its fragrances that exude quintessential minimalism. Over the past five years, the brand’s perfume portfolio has flourished, now boasting eight signature scents. In this exclusive interview, Michelle Ruzzene discovers the inspiration behind the scents, the challenges faced while starting out, and the secrets to the brand’s resounding success.

YOUR ‘LIGHTBULB’ MOMENT TO CREATE A FRAGRANCE WAS BORN AT COACHELLA IN 2017 AFTER SMELLING ‘THE MOST AMAZING SCENT’ ON THE DANCEFLOOR. TELL US MORE.

Yes! So it was at Coachella that I was introduced to an oil fragrance that I just fell in love with. I took a photo of the bottle and when I returned back home to Sydney, I tracked it down and bought 30-40 bottles wholesale as this was the only way to purchase it! Once I started wearing this fragrance around Sydney, I had so many people

approaching me to ask what fragrance I was wearing - cue lightbulb idea to create a fragrance! I then started researching how to create fragrances, and I finally found a Sydney based perfumer to work with. We created His|Her, our first fragrance, and launching in October 2018.

HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH BRAND’S DNA, INCLUDING THE NAME?

Honestly, when I first had the idea to create a fragrance under the name “Who Is Elijah,” I had no clue about brand DNA. It all unfolded quite organically, reflecting my laid-back and ‘go with the flow’ nature. My personal preference leaned towards more ‘masculine’ fragrances, so I began crafting scents that resonated with my own tastes. The name itself has a funny origin. Originally, my business partner, who remains a close friend, suggested calling the brand ‘Raquel & Elijah’ (even though Elijah isn’t his name, he just liked it). While I wasn’t keen on using my own name, I went along with it. However, when my partner chose to step away from the venture early on, I pondered and thought, “Who is Elijah?” And in that moment, I instantly knew that was the perfect name for our brand.

54| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 FRAGRANCE

WHAT ARE YOUR BRAND VALUES/PHILOSOPHY?

At Who Is Elijah, environmental care has been at the core of our values from the beginning. Our commitment to sustainability is evident in the way we avoid wrapping our packaging in plastic, setting us apart on the shelves. Furthermore, we are proud to be a vegan and cruelty-free brand, as we firmly believe that products shouldn’t harm animals in any way. Our fragrances have always been designed for EVERY BODY, and we intentionally refrain from assigning gender labels to them. To us, fragrance is a personal expression, and we believe everyone should feel empowered to wear scents they love without boundaries. At Who Is Elijah, we embrace inclusivity and the freedom to choose fragrances that resonate with each individual.

• Raquel’s lightbulb moment to create Who is Elijah was born at Coachella in 2017 after smelling ‘the most amazing scent’ on the dancefloor

• The brand came from humble beginnings and used Raquel’s garage as their warehouse when they first launched

• A bottle of Nomad sells every 2 minutes

• One Discovery Set sells every 5 minutes

Each bottle is hand filled and packaged locally in Sydney

• The brand is cruelty free

88 per cent of consumer reviews are 5 star

us in creating the unique fragrances we offer. Consider having a full-time job for as long as you can to support your brand’s early growth and invest in perfecting your packaging. Doing as much as you can on your own before outsourcing to employees or third parties will give you valuable insights into the business and ensure that your brand retains its authentic touch. Taking these steps will lay a solid foundation for your brand’s success in the competitive fragrance market.

HOW MANY SCENTS IN THE RANGE TODAY? PLANS FOR EXPANSION?

creation we do together. His expertise and passion for perfumery have been instrumental in bringing our scents to life, and I’m grateful to have him as a valued collaborator on this fragrant journey.

WHAT BUSINESS CHALLENGES DID YOU OVERCOME WHEN STARTING OUT?

We currently have ten fragrances in our collection, and we are launching our 11th in October 2023. This 11th fragrance is the scent that inspired me to create WHO IS ELIJAH! My goal is to ensure people will be wearing my creations in 100+ years from now…

HOW DO YOU COMPETE WITH THE BIG, MULTINATIONAL FRAGRANCE HOUSES?

MOST ‘NOSES’ TRAIN IN GRASSE, FRANCE, AND IT CAN TAKE SEVEN YEARS OF TRAINING – DO YOU HAVE ANY FORMAL PERFUMER TRAINING?

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES/ DISADVANTAGES OF THIS?

Oh, I must admit that I haven’t undergone any formal perfumer training myself. However, I am incredibly fortunate to have the talented perfumer, Brad, working with me. He is the nose behind our creations and plays an integral role in our fragrance development process. Brad is not only a great teacher but also very generous in sharing his knowledge during each perfume

Starting out in this business presented numerous challenges, and I must say, there were quite a few! From hiring and firing employees to managing finances for our rapid growth, it was a tough journey. Dealing with long lead times for manufacturing our bottles and packaging also tested our patience. The list of obstacles seemed never-ending. However, looking back, I wouldn’t change a thing. Each challenge taught me valuable lessons, and I embraced the opportunity to learn things the hard way. All the hard work and perseverance have finally paid off, and I’m proud of how far we’ve come as a brand.

WHAT BUSINESS ADVICE CAN YOU SHARE FOR SOMEONE WANTING TO START A FRAGRANCE BRAND?

Finding the best perfumer is crucial. Look for someone who not only understands the ingredients but also shares your vision and can work with you as a business partner, even becoming a close friend. This collaboration has been essential for

Not only do we offer a competitive price point, but our commitment to using high-quality ingredients is unparalleled, surpassing even some of the wellestablished brands. What truly resonates with our customers is our authentic story, which we share openly on our social media platforms. From the meticulous handfilling and packaging of our bottles to the genuine connections we build with our community, we offer a level of transparency and accessibility that creates a strong bond with our customers. When you reach out to us on Instagram, it’s me personally who responds to your messages. This personal touch and dedication to customer service have played a significant role in the loyalty and trust we have earned from our valued customers. ■

Who is Elijah is available at Sephora, Adore Beauty, Priceline, and The Iconic, in addition to their official website https://whoiselijah.com.au.

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |55 FRAGRANCE

Tips for Father’s Day Fragrance

With Father’s Day coming up on September 3rd, fragrance brands and specialist companies are gearing up to help consumers find the right juice. Michael Marzano, National Training Manager for Agence de Parfum, Australia’s leading niche fragrance distributor, says the company does very well in the run-up to Father’s Day.

“After Christmas, it’s a major occasion for us and ahead of Mother’s Day,” he said.

Marzano conducts specialised training for the company’s 60 retail staff around Australia, starting three to four weeks before the Big Day. “We look at our top 10 bestsellers and amplify with sampling. The in-depth sessions keep Father’s Day top of mind for everyone, so they can really assist people in making the best selections.”

Some people have pre-set ideas for Father’s Day, usually a longtime favourite, but others ask for recommendations, says Marzano. “But often the path-to-purchase involves drilling down to discover fragrances similar to a preferred one to introduce an element of surprise. The most important approach is to ask people about their father’s hobbies, social life and work. Personality and quirks have a huge influence on the type of fragrance a man likes and our staff and customers really enjoy the process of discovering fragrances that fit the bill.”

Discover insights from Michael Marzano, the National Training Manager at Agence de Parfum, as he provides valuable recommendations for finding the perfect fragrance for Father’s Day.
FRAGRANCE
Expert
Michael Marzano
56| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

Multi-occasion fragrances are very popular, but that doesn’t mean playing safe, says Marzano.

“Creed Aventus is our biggest seller, for example. Dry and woody with fruit notes, it’s masculine, refreshing and refined. A true signature scent.”

Light, fresh and aquatic or citrus woody fragrances are great choices for outdoorsy types, says Marzano. “But for corporate suits with a polished appearance, aromatics do very well. This type of man typically likes to go to after-work functions and needs a fragrance that translates from day to night. More cultural types, who attend black tie events and the opera appreciate rich, amber fragrances featuring resins like frankincense and myrrh.”

Uber niche fragrances really hit the spot with the “arty, relaxed, beatnik type of dad”, says Marzano. “They like contrasting fragrances with techno notes like rose oxide. We recently on-boarded Nishane, a Turkish brand that stands out from the crowd. The top seller is Hacivat, a woody amber fragrance with an intriguing

pineapple note that makes the juice shine. From Ormaie, a vegan brand with certified organic ingredients from France, I would recommend Le Passant, a classic aromatic which is a modern take on Pour Un Homme by Caron, the storied French brand.”

Fragrances that are easy to wear yet distinctive are top choices for the more casual dad, says Marzano. “It’s a bit of a cliche but life revolves around his family and he wants a fragrance he can just spritz on at any time. Something like Homme by Costume National, a woody aromatic with fresh top notes and a spicy heart. Or, The Orchid Man by Frapin, also a woody aromatic with leather, bamboo and floral aromas.”

With so many discounted fragrances available only a few of our customers are price-driven, says Marzano. “They come to us looking for a fragrance to spoil their dad. Something personalised, bespoke and out of the ordinary. As I said, Creed Aventus is our topseller which mainly retails for close to $500.” ■

FRAGRANCE
“Personality and quirks have a huge influence on the type of fragrance a man likes and our staff and customers really enjoy the process of discovering fragrances that fit the bill.”
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |57
“Creed Aventus is our biggest seller, for example. Dry and woody with fruit notes, it’s masculine, refreshing and refined. A true signature scent.”

Steven & Shelley

SHER

Founders of Dermal Therapy

HOW DID YOU DEVELOP THE DERMAL THERAPY RANGE?

Our philosophy is to only launch a product for one of two reasons - there is nothing currently on the market that is intended to solve exactly the condition we aiming to help resolve or we feel we can offer a better solution to anything that is currently on offer.

An example of this would be our Face & Eyelid Eczema Cream. The most common solution a pharmacist or doctor would prescribe for this condition would be a steroid cream which can only be used for a short period of time, after which you may have to keep stopping and starting treatment to keep the condition under control. Our innovative cream offers a steroid free solution to a common product which a consumer can easily resolve by finding our product at their local pharmacy.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATIONS?

We only use the highest quality, pharmaceutical grade ingredients in our products and we will never compromise on this quality standard. Our formulations are designed to be effective yet gentle, and we undertake extensive research to find innovative ways to resolve skin conditions using ingredients that are highly researched and new to skincare formulations.

YOUR PACKAGING AND SIGNATURE COLOURS ARE BOLD AND BRIGHT?

Our packaging is designed to be easy to understand. Our product names specify the condition we are aiming to help you manage, and our blue and white packs with our logo in a half circle are distinctive and well recognised by consumers. We often get feedback that a consumer chose a new product in our range because they love something already from the range and recognised the brand on shelf when they went to search for a solution to a new skin condition.

WHAT ARE SOME PROS OF HUSBAND AND WIFE WORKING TOGETHER?

In our case, we complement each other very well in a working environment as we very rarely agree with each other! So, by continuously challenging each other and the decisions that are made from our team, allows everyone the opportunity to share feedback and engage in ongoing discussions to find the best solutions.

Dermal Therapy founders Steven and Shelley Sher’s dedication to authentic skincare solutions led them to create a pharmacy brand that challenges industry norms. The husband and wife duo’s commitment to quality, innovation, and the testimonials of transformed customers drives their ongoing pursuit of enhancing lives through effective skincare.

WHAT ARE SOME CONS?

Bringing work home. It is easy to get caught up in work and then bring that home with us and continue to bounce ideas off each other all the time. Depending on the dynamic, a husband-and-wife team could be very overpowering in a work environment however, this is not something we personally have had any concerns over, and we have always really enjoyed working together.

WHAT BUSINESS CHALLENGES HAVE YOU OVERCOME?

Steve likes to refer to his role as “fighting fires”. There are things that come up daily which involve planning changes, being able to pivot quickly and thinking outside the box. Many years ago, we had our warehousing facility burn down in a massive fire and lost our inventory, packaging materials and point of sale material overnight and then it took eight months to get fully paid out by insurance! This was a particularly challenging situation to deal with. Fighting figurative fires somehow feels better!

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TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR PHILANTHROPY?

We believe in giving back both in a personal capacity and through our company. We constantly receive requests for and donate products to various charities for people doing it tough or for those who deserve to be spoilt with some self-care goodies. As a company, we offer our staff the opportunity to put forward a DGR charity that they would like to be able to support and once a month, we send a monetary donation to this charity chosen by a staff member. Some examples have been after an environmental event, for example, the bushfires and others have been when a staff member has lost a family member to a particular disease and would like money shared to

a charity that researches that disease or helps those suffering to make their lives more comfortable.

YOU RECENTLY LAUNCHED AN ACNE RANGE? WHY?

Acne is a space we have watched for some time, and no other brands have currently been choosing a different way to treat it. All the products on the market seem to lack what we knew we could bring to the space – a skin-first solution. We knew the way forward was to gently protect the skin whilst helping to manage and elevate the acne. Our range offers several firsts. We are the first to concentrate on maintaining the skin’s microbiome and we are the first range to offer an acne specific lotion which is oil free, anti-scar and works to visibly reduce pore size. There are no other products on the market that currently do this.

WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A SUCCESSFUL BRAND IN PHARMACY?

First and foremost, your products need to work. You need to offer a solution to a problem that pharmacist and pharmacy staff will feel confident in recommending. We are in the very fortunate position in that we have, what we call sticky customers. Once a customer tries a Dermal Therapy product, for the most part, they continue purchasing it. The flow on effect is that they are then open to trying a new product from our range, to help resolve another skin

concern. The most important thing that we have developed amongst consumers, pharmacists and pharmacy staff and medical practitioners is TRUST.

HOW DO YOU STAND OUT IN A STATURED MARKET?

We aim to be first to market with new innovations. We do not launch products unless we have a clear point of difference to those already on shelf. We rely on customers buying our brand because of our quality and efficacy. We have the backing of healthcare professionals including dermatologists, nurses, podiatrists, and pharmacists recommending our products as their choice of what should be used to treat a specific condition.

ANYTHING ELSE YOU’D LIKE TO ADD?

We feel privileged to be able to bring to market products that we know are helping millions of people globally to feel more comfortable in their skin. Every day we get a little thrill when we receive customer feedback and testimonials letting us know how much our products have helped them, with many stating our products have “changed their lives”. Customer stories of relief after years of struggle with a specific condition - these are what motivate us to offer the best solutions we can and to keep innovating and keep looking for new opportunities to make people’s lives better. ■

https://dermaltherapy.com.au
“We have the backing of healthcare professionals including dermatologists, nurses, podiatrists, and pharmacists recommending our products as their choice of what should be used to treat a specific condition”.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |59 AUSSIE MADE

DAY EDIT

Father’s Dayedit

Make sure your shelves are stocked with these essential gifts that will warm the hearts of Dads everywhere.

60| RETAIL
FATHER’S
BEAUTY SPRING 2023

Luxe Sticks Avocado Repair & Moisture Control - https://luxesticks.com

Musq Hydrate Face Toner - www.musq.com.au

Ikkari Clear Skin Cleansing Oil - https://ikkari.com.au

American Crew All-In-One Face Balm - www.ozhairandbeauty.com

The Ordinary Multi Peptide Eye Serum - https://theordinary.com

Youth to the People Triple Peptide + Cactus Oasis Serum - www.sephora.com.au

Stuff For the Sun - https://websiteofstuff.com

The Secret Oil Cleanser - https://thesecretskincare.com

Davines Pasta & Love strong hold mat clayMonat for Men Essential face scrub -

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |61
FATHER’S DAY EDIT

THE ADORE BEAUTY BUYERS’

Secret Product Picks

At the young age of 21, Kate Morris, a passionate beauty advocate, embarked on an incredible journey by founding AdoreBeauty.com.au, Australia’s pioneering beauty e-commerce site, in 1999. From humble beginnings in a Melbourne garage with only $12,000 in hand and the support of two lesser-known cosmetic companies, she set out to revolutionise the beauty industry. Michelle Ruzzene caught up with the Adore Beauty Buyers – the ultimate influencers – who unveiled their insider knowledge by sharing their top beauty recommendations. You’re welcome.

BETHANY SCHULTZ

Category ManagerSkincare & Wellness

Alpha-H Liquid Gold Midnight Reboot Serum 50ml

Alpha H Midnight Reboot Serum is my best of ground night serum. It works its magic overnight and delivers visibly brighter and glowy skin. It’s full of active ingredients that work wonders for aging skin and the texture and smell is luxe.

Ultra Violette Supreme Screen Hydrating Facial

Skinscreen SPF50+

Just as important in winter as it is in summer, I wear sunscreen every single day. I buy Ultra Violette Supreme Screen time and time again, it’s one of our best sellers for a reason. Perfect by itself and also great under make up as a primer. If I am looking for an SPF with a glowier finish the AB Lab Dewy C is another firm favourite.

Habitual Beauty Advanced Skin + Gut Health Collagen

Elixir - Dutch Chocolate

I am currently loving Habitual Beauty’s Advanced Skin + Gut Health Collagen Elixir, which has 10,000mg Bioavailable Hydrolyzed Collagen Peptides and loads of extra skin and gut loving ingredients. I enjoy the Dutch Chocolate flavour as a hot chocolate during a part of my nighttime wind down ritual – the best part is it tastes amazing.

MIA SCUNDI

Category Manager - Skincare

Aspect Extreme C 20

My skin is not only dry, but on the sensitive side also. But of course, I still want the glow! Extreme C 20 is formulated to strike the balance between the right combination of active ingredients (including Vitamin C, B and E), at the right concentration, and the right delivery system. I not only get the glow, but the added benefits of hydration, plus soothing and nourishing properties also – my skin has never been happier.

Aesthetics Rx B Serum 30ml

This truly is the juiciest B-Serum out there. The three key powerhouses of Vitamin B3, B5, AND Hyaluronic Acid helps guide all skin types directly to plump, smooth, hydrated skin. You really can’t go wrong with this formula, I wouldn’t be without it – a stalwart in my routine, for sure.

Medik8 H.E.O. Mask

I will never tire of spreading the word about Medik8, and my skin will never tire from being on the receiving end of this mask. Nothing says ‘sweet dreams’ more than the Medik8 H.E.O Mask, my overnight dry skin saviour. What even is “H.E.O”? These are three essential pillars of hydration: Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives.

BUYERS LIST 62| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub with Sea Salt 250ml

I tried this scalp scrub for the first time 5 years ago when I started at Adore Beauty, and I have not stopped since. It leaves my oily scalp feeling fresh and super clean, also allowing me to gain an extra day between washes - and who doesn’t want that! It’s quite a grainy texture, so it also feels very luxe massaging it into the scalp and smells divine.

Kérastase Genesis Fortifying Serum 90ml

It seems every product Kerastase releases is just a dream. I am really loving the Genesis range as a whole at the moment, but more specifically the genesis serum. The range is targeted to help reduce hair fall, something I am seeing more and more as I age. The serum is lightweight and easy to apply to the scalp once a day. It has the usual beautiful smell that you can expect from any Kerastase product and also looks great in my bathroom with its pretty pink packaging.

Dyson Supersonic Bright Nickel/Bright Copper HD07

Dyson really is at the forefront of technology, and the supersonic hair dryer is by far the best I have ever used. A fun fact is that the hair dryer measures the temperature every 40 seconds to ensure optimal heat is being used to prevent excessive heat damage…how cool is that? It is super lightweight to hold and quiet, which I personally love, as I hate a loud hairdryer blasting in my ear. Basically, I take my Dyson with me everywhere I go, as I can never be without it.

Junior Category ManagerFragrance and Makeup

Goldfield & Banks Ingenious Ginger

Perfume 100ml

Goldfield & Banks make incredible fragrances inspired by the landscapes of Australia, and Ingenious Ginger takes inspiration from the unscented yet flamboyant red blooms of the torch ginger lily. The result is this stunning scent - effervescent, sparkling ginger with citrus and floral notes. It almost fizzes on the skin and is so unique, it’s instantly become a new favourite in my already-crowded lineup.

Glasshouse Fragrances LOST IN

AMALFI CAR DIFFUSER

This is the ultimate #PWDKWN (that’s Adore Beauty-speak for Product We Didn’t Know We Needed, for the uninitiated!). A chic car diffuser that bejewels my dashboard by clipping onto an air vent. Refillable with your favourite Glasshouse scents, this one comes with Lost in Amalfi, a salty, ocean-inspired scent.

Juliette Has A Gun Lust for Sun

EDP 100ml

The newest release from cult fragrance brand Juliette Has A Gun will be a nonnegotiable for my upcoming holiday to Portugal. It’s the perfect combination of sun-bloomed florals, creamy coconut, and sparkling, sophisticated citrus. And until I hit the tarmac, it’s bringing “euro summer vaycay” to my desk instead, to brighten up a dreary Melbourne day.

LIZ O’BRIEN
It seems every product Kerastase releases is just a dream.
BUYERS LIST RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |63
This is the ultimate #PWDKWN (that’s Adore Beauty-speak for Product We Didn’t Know We Needed, for the uninitiated!).

Have you met... BONNIE GILLIES

Bonnie Gillies, a talented professional makeup artist and beauty expert, is the visionary behind Basics By B, a successful cosmetics brand. She has built a thriving career, working on prestigious projects, including Hollywood feature films. A trailblazer in the industry, Bonnie’s dedication and creative vision continue to set her brand apart in the competitive beauty market.

HOW DID YOU GET INTO MAKEUP/BEAUTY?

Being an artist has been a part of me from a young age, and transitioning from drawing and painting to painting faces was a natural progression. My fascination with makeup started when I discovered face charts, and I became obsessed with experimenting on them, thanks to a family friend that worked at David Jones and kindly provided me with them. I would also collect unwanted makeup from anyone I knew, building my own makeup kit as a child. I always knew that becoming a makeup artist was my calling, however, my parents had concerns about career opportunities in this field, and they encouraged me to attend university after school. Despite their wishes, I found university to be an unhappy experience, and I eventually followed my heart to pursue my true passion as a makeup artist.

WHERE DID YOU LEARN YOUR SKILLS?

My makeup journey started with self-teaching, but I also attended a makeup school for a year. After that, I landed a fortunate job with Elizabeth Arden in China and then the UK. Working with them was a turning point, and I got the chance to work at London Fashion Week twice a year for five consecutive years. As my expertise grew, I ventured into big magazine editorials, television projects, and even worked on Hollywood feature films like The Da Vinci Code. I also had the incredible opportunity to be a beauty advisor to the royal family when I was just 24 years old. However, these opportunities didn’t come easily; they required dedication, persistence, and a lot of hustling on my part.

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INFLUENCER

WHAT DOES A TYPICAL DAY LOOK LIKE?

Basics By B keeps me busy with various tasks, and content creation is a key focus. I started producing content long before influencers and bloggers were a thing, facing criticism initially. Now, I have a loyal community of women seeking makeup advice, making the online connection the most rewarding aspect of it all.

HOW /WHEN DID THE CONCEPT FOR BASICS BY B COME ABOUT?

Basics By B was created for myself, but mainly as a range for my followers and online community. I wanted something I could sell to my customers, and they could learn to use along with me. I started with one palette, every colour is custom blended, so the one product was all I could afford to make. I don’t have a wealthy family or investors, I started the brand with my own savings I’d earned from make-up jobs and put it all into the brand.

HOW HAS THE RANGE DEVELOPED/EVOLVED SINCE THEN?

The support for my brand from my audience has been AMAZING! As I could afford it, I would add more and more products to the range. Now I have over 50 SKUs in the range. I was lucky I had another income from my make-up artist career because I didn’t take any money from what the brand made for the first 3.5 years, I just reinvested it all back into growing it. But now I only pay myself from the brand, and the occasional make-up artist job I still do because I love it!

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR INGREDIENTS AND FORMULATIONS?

I’m not a fan of 100 per cent natural makeup. As a makeup artist, I prioritise high-performance products, and achieving that requires scientifically formulated man-made ingredients. The whole ‘natural’ makeup category bothers me because most brands claiming to be ‘all natural’ still use man-made colours, except for some using ingredients like carrots, beetroot, or crushed up beetles for colour. So, the reality is that 99.9 per cent of these ‘all natural’

claims are actually false. My products are meticulously crafted for cleanliness, free from harmful toxins and unnecessary ingredients. They feature a perfect blend of natural and man-made elements, ensuring highperformance, long shelf life, and stability without causing irritation.

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT YOUR PACKAGING?

I prioritise avoiding plastic as much as possible in my products (greenwashing in the beauty industry is outrageous – but that’s a topic for another day!) I opt for ecofriendlier alternatives whenever feasible. Our palettes are made from cardboard, retaining a beautiful appearance while being environmentally conscious. Additionally, I use glass bottles when possible, despite the higher production and shipping costs. The next step on my agenda is to transition away from using plastic lipstick tubes. Currently, it’s the only option available, but as soon as we allocate budget for research and development, I aim to develop bio-degradable lipstick tubes.

HOW DO YOU COMPETE AGAINST THE BIG BEAUTY PLAYERS?

Honestly, I don’t pay much attention to what other big brands are doing. My brand is unique and stands apart from them, so my focus remains on my customers and their wants and needs. While I understand the market well, I prioritise building a

strong relationship with my customers. Unlike other brands, my connection with customers is person-to-person. They see me as an equal and turn to me for makeup advice and support, valuing the empowerment I strive to provide.

From day one, my mission has been to empower women with makeup skills to enhance their confidence and feel great about themselves. It’s not just about sales for me; it’s about helping my customers use makeup confidently to look and feel amazing.

YOUR ADVICE TO BUDDING MAKEUP ARTISTS?

Stay determined and eager, and never give up. Rejections and ‘no’s’ are part of the journey to the top. Use them as fuel to fuel your ambition. When someone says you can’t do something, let that little voice in your head say, “f**king watch me!” It’s true! Enjoy the journey; it’s not all about reaching the top. And consider traveling; working overseas opens up incredible opportunities for makeup artists beyond Australia’s industry.

One product you couldn’t live without?

Basics By B Liquid Glow Drops - the most beautiful liquid highlight! I use them as cheek and eye colours too. ■

https://basicsbyb.com.au

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |65 INFLUENCER

UP YOUR BASE: INFLUENCER

Welcome to another season, and as we transition from the chilly winter months to the vibrant days of spring, it’s time to revitalise our makeup routine and embrace a fresh complexion. Winter can take a toll on our skin, leaving it tight and dry. In the last issue, we discussed the importance of layering hydration and using barrier creams to protect the skin from moisture loss due to cold air or indoor heating. Now, as the weather warms up and our skin starts to bounce back, it’s the perfect time to focus on achieving a flawless base for your makeup look.

Glow
Spring Makeup Tips for a Fresh Complexion 66| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

SKIN PREP FOR A GLOWING CANVAS

Skincare is the foundation of any makeup application. While each person’s skin may have different needs, one thing remains constant: a lightweight, gel-cream water-based texture is ideal for a cooling effect on the skin before applying makeup. This preparation creates a fresh, plump canvas, ensuring that your foundation bonds seamlessly with the skin. Avoid using rich, dense creams that can leave residues and hinder the connection between the skin and makeup. Embrace the sensation of fresh, cool, and bouncy skin as you lay the groundwork for a radiant makeup look.

UNLOCKING THE POWER OF PRIMERS

Primers are the unsung heroes of makeup application, offering a host of benefits for achieving a long-lasting, flawless complexion. While talking to customers about primers, it’s essential to emphasize their advantages, so they understand that this step is not just an unnecessary addition to their routine. Consider it a valuable extension of skincare and an essential accessory for makeup.

Primers come in various formulations to cater to different skin concerns. Some can improve skin texture over time, much like skincare, while others offer instant fixes. They can correct skin tone, add a radiant glow, mattify, or, my personal favourite, blur the skin. The latter is akin to applying the Paris Instagram filter in real life, minimising the appearance of pores and fine lines. Consider advising customers to use specific primers in targeted zones of the face. For example, a mattifying primer on the T-zone and a glow-enhancing primer on the outer areas of the face. This tailored approach ensures an even and balanced complexion, making the overall makeup application a breeze.

THE MAGIC OF BLUR POWDERS

As we bid farewell to winter and embrace sunnier days, powders become an essential component of our makeup routine. While glowy skin is the trend, it’s essential to find powders that offer a natural, nondrying effect. The buzzword of the moment is “blur” powders, and for a good reason. These translucent powders work with most skin tones to smooth, blur imperfections, and set makeup flawlessly.

What sets blur powders apart is their sheer, lightweight formulation. While traditional powders can feel heavy and drying on the skin, blur powders offer

a smoothing veil that dilutes high shine, minimises the appearance of pores, and softens fine lines. Using a smaller application brush, lightly dab and press the powder onto the skin for a seamless finish. Blur powders also work wonders around the eye area, ensuring makeup stays put and doesn’t smudge, especially with wax-based liners.

If you’re a fan of a radiant highlight, there’s no need to fear the blur powder. Applying a blur powder over your highlighter allows the glow to shine through while smoothing the skin and minimizing any potential texture accentuation.

A TIME FOR COMPLEXION FRESHEN UP

Embrace the change of the seasons and give your complexion a well-deserved freshen up this spring. As a makeup artist, consider recommending new textures and the magic of blur powders to your customers. Spring is the season of renewal, and with a few tweaks to your makeup routine, you can achieve a natural, flawless complexion that’s perfect for sunny outdoor experiences.

Think of the Kardashians, whose makeup exudes a smooth, velvet-like finish that lasts ten times longer than a dewy look. This spring, let’s blur the lines and embrace the radiance of our refreshed complexion. ■

Remember

Spring is the perfect season to refresh your makeup routine and embrace a radiant, flawless complexion. Skin prep, the power of primers, and the magic of blur powders play crucial roles in achieving a long-lasting, natural makeup look. As we welcome brighter days and outdoor experiences, let’s unlock the potential of our base makeup and glow up for spring!

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |67 INFLUENCER
The buzzword of the moment is “blur” powders, and for a good reason.

Product knowledge is crucial for beauty advisors as it empowers them to offer excellent customer service, build trust, and make informed recommendations, ultimately benefiting both customers and the brands they represent.

Michelle Ruzzene caught up with three team members from First Impressions Events, a boutique promotional agency that provide the cosmetic and fragrance industry with highly experienced, business oriented consultants, to find out:

“What are some ways you improve your product knowledge?”

BeautyBreakthrough
68| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 BUSINESS

FAYE KHAMIS

I keep abreast of what is happening in the beauty industry by reading retail beauty magazines, following many beauty influencers to see what’s trending globally and keep my inhouse education current from product fact sheets available through clients.

TRACY JONES

I keep up-to-date on clients’ products by reviewing their fact sheets and researching on the internet. I also attend client training sessions which allows me to fully understand the ‘product story’, which assists in successful promotion and selling.

GULER

VURAL

I improve my product knowledge by learning about the brand and the ingredients that would be in their products and by attending client training sessions. I also test the product on myself in order to recommend to customers.

RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |69 BUSINESS

TRANSFORMING NEGATIVE SOCIAL MEDIA REVIEWS

LOYAL CUSTOMERS:

a guide INTO

Receiving negative feedback on social media is a common occurrence for many of us, and as a content creator, I’ve had my fair share of such interactions. However, instead of being disheartened, I believe these moments offer the perfect opportunity to build trust and educate our audience.

INFLUENCER
70| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

As content creators and cosmetic salespersons, we are no strangers to receiving negative feedback on social media. However, instead of feeling discouraged, these moments offer an excellent opportunity to build trust and educate our audience. With such a vast array of cosmetic products available, not everything will work for everyone, but our mission is to guide customers towards the best choices for their individual needs.

One fantastic example of the power of reviews is the Little Red Book (Xiaohongshu), a popular Chinese app known for its honest beauty product reviews. Surprisingly, even products with negative reviews manage to sell successfully worldwide. The reason behind this lies in the fact that not all products are meant for everyone; each product has its dedicated consumers who genuinely love using them. Our role is to educate and share knowledge about different products, ensuring that customers find the ones that suit their skin type and preferences.

For instance, when someone asks me about the shampoo I use, I often receive responses like, “I can’t afford that” or “I tried that brand before, but it didn’t work.” In such cases, I engage in a conversation to understand their hair and scalp conditions, usage habits, and reasons for disliking the product. This approach allows me to offer personalised recommendations and advice.

Similarly, when a customer shows you a negative review of a foundation on social media, inquire whether the reviewer mentioned their skin type, application method, or other products used in conjunction with the foundation. This opens the door for you to offer a demonstration on their skin or hand to showcase the product’s true potential.

Occasionally, my followers inquire about my foundation shade without knowing my skin tone and type. Although I encourage them to complete a colour match at the counter, some insist on purchasing the same shade I use. To address this, I explain

that achieving my radiant look in photos involves using highlighters, illuminators, and filters, which may not be evident in a beauty editor’s word-limited article. Hence, obtaining a similar appearance requires attention to the application technique and other complementary products.

When handling negative reviews, it’s crucial to maintain a positive and conflict-

free tone. Express appreciation for the customer’s time and effort in sharing their concerns and demonstrate a willingness to understand their viewpoint. Always offer your assistance and expertise in finding the right solutions for them.

In our interactions with customers, we should embody qualities such as patience, humility, and respect. My parents have always reminded me to value those who engage in discussions and arguments, as they genuinely care about finding the best solutions. Should someone lose faith in us, they will simply walk away. Our goal is to nurture strong connections with our customers, guiding them towards products that best suit their unique needs and preferences.

By embracing these principles, we can transform negative reviews into valuable opportunities for building loyalty among our customers. As we consistently dedicate ourselves to meeting their specific requirements, we will foster a community that appreciates our commitment to their satisfaction. ■

INFLUENCER
“Our goal is to nurture strong connections with our customers, guiding them towards products that best suit their unique needs and preferences.”
Icy
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Ling

Out & About

BEST IN SHOW

David Jones hosted its 2023 Beauty Awards at the Elizabeth Street Flagship store which saw the return of legendary supermodel and former brand ambassador, Lauren Hutton. Showcasing the best in beauty, from cult favourites to new formulations, 16 products across various categories including skincare, makeup, fragrance, and wellness were awarded as winners by some of Australia’s leading beauty experts. www.davidjones.com

Michelle Ruzzene covers the latest product launch events showcasing the best in retail beauty.

01. Beauty Awards judges Ingrid Seaburn, Eleanor Pendleton, Victoria Baron and Max May. 02. Lauren Hutton and Alicia Shoolman, David Jones General Manager of Beauty. 03. Candice and Rosi Fernandez from La Prairie. 04. Lauren Hutton and Eleanor Pendleton. 01. 02. 03 04.
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Images by Esteban La Tessa.

LUXPERIENCE

Lancôme unveiled its latest skincare product, Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream, at an immersive event held at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney. Guests had the opportunity to explore the power of peptides through a captivating evening of sensory experiences and gain insights into the science behind the new cream from an expert panel which included dermatologist Dr. Mei-Heng Tan, Vogue’s Mahalia Chang, and Lancôme Australia National Educator Brittany Hanchard. www.lancome.com.au

01. 02. 05.
03. 04. 01. Jesinta Franklin and Michael Brown. 02 The Hon. Julie Bishop. 03. Laura Dundovic and Jayde Heiser. 04. Dr. Mei-Heng Tan, Vogue’s Mahalia Chang, Lancôme Australia National Educator Brittany Hanchard and Jesinta Franklin. 05. Indigenous Australian singer-songwriter Thelma Plum.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |73 OUT & ABOUT
Images by Esteban La Tessa

A-Z OF ACNE

La Roche-Posay revealed some startling statistics at its A-Z of Acne event featuring a panel discussion with leading Dermatologist Dr JoAnn See, La Roche-Posay Scientific Communications Manager Jodi Hindmarsh, La RochePosay ambassador Laura Henshaw and Pharmacist and university teacher Jamil Karaki, hosted by Matty Mills at Bondi Icebergs. The brand’s Effaclar anti-acne skincare range, catering to sensitive, oily, and acne-prone skin, is witnessing significant growth due to consumer demand. The Micro-Peeling Purifying Gel in a 400ml pump bottle, which is more suitable for body cleansing, particularly for the chest and back areas, was showcased at the event.

www.laroche-posay.com.au

01. The event was held at Bondi Icebergs.

02. The Effaclar Micro-Peeling Purifying Gel now comes in 400ml pump bottle.

03. From left: Matty Mills, Dr JoAnn See, Jamil Karaki, Jodi Hindmarsh and Laura Henshaw.

04. From left La Roche-Posay’s Communications Manager Alice Hansen, Marketing Manager Holly Roach, Scientific Communications Manager Jodi Hindmarsh and Marketing Management Trainee Liliana Neame.

OUT & ABOUT
02. 01. 03.
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04.

KISS, KISS

Revlon again partnered with Chemist Warehouse for International Lipstick Day 2023, demonstrating a strong commitment to purpose driven collaboration. This year, the International Lipstick Day campaign ran from Thursday, July 6 until Wednesday, August 2, 2023, with $2 from every Super Lustrous Lipstick purchased being donated to Look Good Feel Better. The initiative supports the free national community service program run by the Cancer Patients Foundation that is dedicated to teaching patients how to manage the appearance-related side-effects caused by cancer treatment. www.chemistwarehouse.com.au

OUT & ABOUT 01. 02. 03. 04.
Images: Jack Owen Bennett. 01. Cecily-Anna Bennett and her daughter Marnie. 02. From left: Monica Wojnarowska, Digital Manager, Revlon, Megan Fowler, Brand Manager, Revlon, Alex Bateman, Group PR Manager, Chemist Warehouse, Demmie Vasilevski, Category Buyer, Chemist Warehouse, Amy Kingon Smith, Head of Marketing, Revlon, Mija Hovanjec, Social Media & Content Coordinator, Chemist Warehouse. 03. The event was held over breakfast at Chiswick.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |75
04. Vanessa Gambin, PR Communications Manager, Look Good Feel Better, Amy Kingon Smith, Head of Marketing, Revlon, Danielle Lill, Partnerships Manager, Look Good Feel Better, Demmie Vasilevski, Category Buyer, Chemist Warehouse.

DTF (DOWN TO FAN)

Benefit Cosmetics unveiled its highly anticipated Fan Fest Fanning and Volumizing Mascara with a metallic-themed launch party held at Studio Gallery in Waterloo. The event was a dazzling celebration of beauty and innovation, attended by media, influencers who were treated to an immersive experience. As attendees arrived at the event, they were greeted by an interactive champagne wall, where they could effortlessly grab a glass of champagne. The event also included a forest of lashes, a DJ setting the soundtrack for the night and acrobatic performances.

www.benefitcosmetics.com/en-au

OUT & ABOUT
01. Sarah Wardle, Dani Lombard and Katie Hayes. 02. Entertainment at the event. 03. From left: Benefit Public Relations and Community Executive Claudia Gough, Katherine Licastro and Anne Lemaire. 04. Benefit National Brow & Beauty Authority Samantha Tonkin with Mia Peruso. 02. 01. 03.
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04.

RUNWAY ROOM RETHINKS RETAIL

Alex Fevola, the visionary behind Runway Room, has fulfilled a longcherished dream with the opening of the inaugural Runway Room retail concept store. Housed within a beautifully restored heritage facade, the multi-level retail space situated on the renowned High Street in Armadale, Melbourne, has been 11 years in the making. A pioneering concept in Australia, all displayed items are thoughtfully arranged by product in the order of application, starting from the base, rather than by brand. As a commitment to authenticity, the store features a dynamic carousel of images showcasing makeup looks created by the in-house artist of the day. www.runwayroom.com

02.

01. The flagship is situated within a beautifully restored heritage façade. All items are thoughtfully arranged by product in the order of application. 03. Alex Fevola and her daughter Mia. 04. From left: Carmen Lyon, Enrica Matina, Alex Fevola, Renee Aidonopoulos and Mia Fevola. 01. 02. 03.
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |77 OUT & ABOUT
04.

SEPHORA SHOWCASE

At the bi-annual House of Sephora showcase held at the Cutaway in Barangaroo, more than 40 exciting new brand and product launches were revealed. Sephora’s lineup of new brands presents an exciting array of options. Both Vegamour and Shark have already made their debut and are currently available. Meanwhile, keep an eye out for Airyday, OPI, Dr Naomi Skin, and Salt & Stone, all launching in August. Looking ahead, Cloud Nine is slated for an October release, while Sun Skills is anticipated to make its entrance in late 2023. www.sephora.com.au

01. Dr Naomi talks to guests. 02. The showcase was held at the Cutaway in Barangaroo. 03. Pardis Mahdavi at the Vegamour stand. 04. Helen Chik holds Standard Procedure sunscreen. 01. 02. 03.
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04.

UP ALL LIGHT

To celebrate a very exciting skincare meet skincare launch, Revlon hosted media and guests at Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art. Its Illuminance Skin-Caring Foundation was showcased with the illuminated backdrop of the gorgeous harbour thanks to Vivid Sydney, an annual festival of light, music and ideas. Guests were colour matched by Nica Marcello, National Education Manager, Revlon & Elizabeth Arden. Formulated without parabens, phthalates or synthetic fragrances, the foundation is available in 16 buildable shades. www.revlonanz.com

01. Team Stark Matthews, who looks after PR for Revlon Cosmetics.. 02. Tashi Jade Bell at the event. 03. Revlon Illuminance SkinCaring Foundation comes in 16 shades. 04. Guests were colour matched by Nica Marcello.
02.
01. RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |79 OUT & ABOUT
03. 04.

Natio

For three decades, Natio has harnessed the healing potential of natural botanicals, blending them with scientific expertise. In celebration of its 30th anniversary, the brand has revitalised its signature range. Natio Aromatherapy enters a new era of potent, plant-based skincare with cutting-edge formulation tech, resulting in heightened efficacy and synergy among ingredients. Classic favourites have reformulated to suit modern needs, accompanied by new products, creating a comprehensive 22 SKU collection. The rejuvenated aromatherapy line offers gentle yet impactful formulations, meeting various skin goals. The range includes an expanded selection of skin-nourishing items presented in eco-friendly packaging crafted from sustainable materials, showcasing a harmonious blend of innovation and sustainability. www.natio.com.au

MOR

Since its establishment in 2001 within Melbourne’s cobblestone laneways, MOR has continuously evolved, drawing inspiration from past eras, travel, apothecary traditions, and art. This journey has given rise to luxurious bath, body, and lifestyle products. Each collection captures opulence and tells a unique story, transporting users to a moment in time that ignites their senses. MOR’s philosophy is to transform everyday routines into indulgent rituals through carefully crafted formulations and lavish packaging. The latest collection is Jardiniere, inspired by floral beauty entwined with ocean breezes from the Cote d’Azur. The range includes antioxidant-rich washes, silken hand and body milks, luxurious hand balms, and aromatic eau de parfums available in either Orange Flower & Lavender (pictured) or Mint & Mimosa, which are designed to be layered increase fragrance scent and longevity. https://morboutique.com

Ena

Born in 2015 after years of meticulous research, Ena’s luxury skincare and bodycare products are now ready to be shared with the world. Made from eco friendly, high quality botanicals and 100% genuine essential oils, its formulations exclude harsh chemicals and synthetic fragrances. Ena’s goal is to consistently provide a range that offers nurturing and care and the brand contributes a portion of every sale to one of three chosen NGOs (Greening Australia, UN Women, or Adara Development). Its design is inspired by the local landscape, with all of the ranges crafted in Australia. The 500ml and 1-litre refill bottles consist of 100% post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials, which are recyclable. www.enaproducts.com.au

BRAND NEWS
80| RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023

The Aussie Man

The Aussie Man, a key player in men’s skincare, has launched a wholesale website to foster partnerships with retailers, meeting the demand for high-quality skincare. Driven by the surge in premium men’s skincare demand, The Aussie Man empowers retailers to diversify and grants access to products blending natural ingredients with effective skincare solutions. The range includes cleansers, serums, moisturisers, and eye creams formulated to address men’s skincare needs. The wholesale website offers streamlined order processing, support, competitive pricing, marketing aid, and access to a skincare enthusiasts community. Retailers can explore wholesale opportunities online. www.theaussieman.com

PRO:VOKE

Chemcorp International had proudly introduced PRO:VOKE Touch of Silver to its range of home beauty essentials for Australian women. Launched in the 1970s as the original purple shampoo for blonde, platinum, white, and grey hair, it remains a trusted haircare brand after 50 years. Available at major retailers such as Woolworths, Coles, IGA, Priceline, Chemist Warehouse, Cincotta Discount Chemist, and Direct Chemist Outlet, as well as online, PRO:VOKE offers specialised solutions for maintaining blonde shades. Developed by salon experts, these products provide visibly brighter hair in one wash, extending the time between salon visits. https://provokehaircare.com.au

ashaya

Influenced by Ayurveda, the name ‘ashaya’ signifies ‘abode’ – a concept that views the body as a sacred dwelling, deserving of safeguarding and nurturing. The essence of ashaya is to aid women through transformative life phases, where hormonal fluctuations are natural yet impactful, affecting emotional and physical well-being. Exploring the rejuvenating qualities of adaptogenic and Ayurvedic botanicals, alongside the impactful practice of ritual, founders Sarah Ward, Jodie Matthews, and Siobhan Filde embarked on a three-year odyssey of creating a range alongside a team of experts. The outcome two custom-tailored hormonal health products – Re-Glow Perimenopause Relief and In-Flow Period & PMS Relief – crafted to nurture the body both internally and externally. https://ashaya.com.au

BRAND NEWS
RETAIL BEAUTY SPRING 2023 |81

Advertiser index

Revlon

Front and back cover

Pages 10-11 www.revlonanz.com

Natio

Inside front cover www.natio.com.au

Puretan Page 5 https://puretan.com.au

Weleda

Pages 7, 43 www.weleda.com.au

Ashaya

Page 9 https://ashaya.com.au

FreezeFrame Page 17 www.freeze-frame.com.au

Bio Oil

Pages 18-19 www.bio-oil.com.au

Ego Pharmaceuticals

Pages 26-27

www.egopharm.com

LGFB Page 50

https://lgfb.org.au

Provoke

Inside back cover https://provokehaircare.com.au

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To find out more about this range please call 02 95260777 chemcorp.com.au Inspiring beautiful inside & out

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