SUMMER 2021/22 NZ$9.95
GRANT TAYLOR A Pioneering Winemaker
SILVER FERN FARMS Their Recipes, Cameron’s Wine Matches
WINES TASTED AND RATED
ISSN 2624-3342
9 772624
334007
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CELLAR DOOR DINING
Throughout New Zealand
OPTIMAL WINE CARE THE INTEGRATED COLUMN WINE CABINET PROVIDES THE IDEAL ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR PRECIOUS COLLECTION
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16 Cover Photo: New Zealand Winegrowers Inc.
PUBLISHED BY The Intermedia Group NZ Pty Ltd PO Box 109 342 Newmarket, Auckland New Zealand
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MANAGING DIRECTOR Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au
06 A Word From The Master
Musings from New Zealand’s only Master Sommelier
08 A Pioneering Winemaker
Grant Taylor owner and winemaker of Valli Wines reflects on the growth of Central Otago.
GROUP PUBLISHER Craig Hawtin-Butcher craig@intermedia.com.au
12 Cellar Door Dining
Make the most of staying home in New Zealand by dining out at one of our many cellar door restaurants.
EDITOR Tessa Nicholson tessa.nicholson@me.com
16 Bubbling Over
SALES DIRECTOR Wendy Steele wsteele@intermedianz.co.nz +64 21300473
Tis the season for sparkling wine so Cameron looks at the history of Champagne and New Zealand’s home grown equivalent.
DIGITAL AND PRINT COORDINATOR Eclypse Lee elee@intermedianz.co.nz
18 Famous Wine Partnerships
How did a New Zealand company manage to entice Graham Norton and Sarah Jessica Parker to become partners in their wine business?
ART DIRECTOR Adrian Tipper atipper@intermedia.com.au
24 Cheers Cheese
Cameron breaks down which wine is best with which cheese, so you don’t have to guess.
31 Silver Fern Farms Summer Recipes
Scrumptious meals for summer, plus the perfect wine matches.
36 Tasting Notes
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38 Sauvignon Blanc 41 Sparkling 44 Chardonnay 46 Aromatics 49 Pinot Gris 51 Rosé 54 Pinot Noir 57 Other Reds
Cameron Douglas, MS: A WORD FROM
th e Master I have used the same short phrase ‘always stay humble and kind’ as a final message at the end of my emails, for many months now. It has felt more appropriate than ever throughout 2021 and somewhat of a theme that underpins my daily activities in the community. Whether it’s teaching at university, face to face and now online, or attending meetings, zooms, teams or webinars, it reminds me that humility and kindness is easy to give and can help make someone else’s day better. For instance, I always make a point of waving to and thanking the courier drivers who frequently visit with deliveries, even leaving out treats for them to help themselves to. The wheels of commerce must continue to turn so perhaps like you, part of my new-ish normal is more time in front of a screen navigating websites for something new and exciting to read, wear, build, taste or eat while we stay restricted on travel. It’s
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the unwrapping that is often the most fun. Aotearoa’s wine sector is in the most part in a good space thanks to online activity and some decent sales, but one thing is certain and that is wine tasting rooms, cafes and restaurants need our cash. I’ll be happy to hand over the credit card to let someone else cook when sit down, a la carte dining fully kicks back in again. My kitchen needs some downtime. It is exciting to report that the quality of wine from late releases of 2017’s and new release wines from ’18, ’19, ’20 and some just released ’21’s are of a very good to outstanding quality overall. Many of those wines appear in this edition of World of Wine, so I do hope you enjoy the articles and tasting notes within. Stay safe, be kind, wear a mask and remember – only drink fantastic wine. Cameron Douglas, MS
s p i s Small NEWS FROM THE NEW ZEALAND WINE INDUSTRY AND HAPPENINGS ON THE HORIZON
Craggy Range Vineyard
AMONG THE WORLD’S BEST Once again New Zealand has two vineyards rated among the top 50 in the world, according to World’s Best Vineyards. Craggy Range in Hawke’s Bay was rated as number 11 in the world and was also awarded Best Australasian vineyard. It is the third year in a row that Craggy Range has made the Top 50. Last year it was placed at number 17. Rippon Vineyard in Central Otago also appeared in the Top 50 for the third time in
a row, being ranked at number 15. (Last year they were 13). As for the Best in the World – 2021 is the third year that Argentina’s Zuccardi Valle de Uco has taken out the top position. The World’s Best Vineyards aims to highlight the sheer diversity across both established and emerging wine tourism destinations and is voted by the Academy of 600 global wine and travel experts. Rippon Hall, Wanaka
VALLI TAKES OUT IWC TROPHY A wine that Cameron rated at 95 in the winter issue of World of Wine, has also been acknowledged on the world stage. Valli Pinot Noir Gibbston Vineyard 2019 won the IWC Sustainable Trophy 2021, the New Zealand Red Trophy and the Central Otago Pinot Noir Trophy at this year’s competition. The judges commented there were thrilled “to taste a Gibbston Pinot in full flavour.” (See story on Valli owner Grant Taylor on page 8) Meanwhile Church Road Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2019 also impressed the judges, winning the New Zealand White Trophy. They described the wine as a “perfectly formed Chardonnay.”
MARLBOROUGH WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL ON THE MOVE After having to cancel the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival in 2021 due to Covid, organisers are planning for next year’s event. And for the first time in 33 years, the festival will be held at a different site. Since 1988 the festival has held at Brancott Vineyard, but due to development of the site, it was not considered suitable for next year’s event. Instead the February 12 festival will be held at the Renwick Domain right in the centre of “wine country”. The Domain is literally just a few kilometres from where the very original plantings and wine companies began. Wine Marlborough General Manager Marcus Pickens says due to ongoing Covid issues, there will be some operational improvements to the 2022 event. “We will be working with a number of parties including Nelson Marlborough DHB to ensure that we are taking all appropriate measures.” Tickets for the festival are now on sale.
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GRANT TAYLOR - VALLI WINES
A Pioneering
Winemaker MEET THE OWNER AND WINEMAKER OF VALLI WINES, WHO IN THE LAST ISSUE OF WORLD OF WINE, WAS AWARDED FIVE 96 OR 95 RATINGS BY CAMERON.
Central Otago’s unforgiving geography is on display at Valli’s Gibbston Vineyard.
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GRANT TAYLOR - VALLI WINES
V
ery few people have the privilege of watching a wine region grow from nothing into a world-renowned producer. Grant Taylor, owner and winemaker of Valli Wines is one of those lucky few. While his entrée into the world of wine began in America’s Napa Valley, it was his return home to New Zealand in 1993 that set him on the path to helping develop Central Otago and later the Waitaki wine regions. Grant admits that when he did his first vintage in New Zealand in 1991, he had no idea that Central Otago had any vineyards. It wasn’t until he noticed six bottles of wine that had come from down south sitting in a friend’s winery lab, that he was alerted to the fact. “I thought holy hell, they are making wine down there. I have always considered that area home and I thought next time I come back I will take a trip down there and see what is going on.” Which is what he did a year later, meeting up with wine pioneer Alan Brady who just happened to be looking for a winemaker for his company Gibbston Valley. “It just sort of seemed like too much fun not
to be involved and I was ready to come home then, having spent 16 years in the Napa.” At the time there were 20 hectares of vines planted in Central Otago. Compare that to the 2,024 ha of vines in 2021. Grant has seen that expansion first hand and has marveled as more sub regions have come on stream, each and every one bringing something new to the world of wine. He describes that opportunity as a privilege. “I had a French winemaker that I worked with who said he felt so sorry for us that we never had our father or grandfather to pass on knowledge and a piece of land,” Grant says. “But I felt sorry for him because he never had the joy of seeing a region grow and develop, or to see grapes and vineyards growing on land that had never had grapes before. Every year, a new site would
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GRANT TAYLOR - VALLI WINES
Valli’s Bendigo Vineyard.
come on stream and its been a real privilege to have seen that.” It didn’t take Grant long to appreciate how much impact sub regions had on the ensuing wines. While his first forays were in the Gibbston Valley, he eventually began making wine with fruit coming from the Cromwell Basin, Bannockburn and Bendigo. And while they may all be labelled as Central Otago, he says they are all individuals, with climate and geography playing big roles. “When you look at a map you think each of these sub regions is quite close. But it’s not just a couple of kilometres between them. There is about 30 - 40 kilometres from Gibbston to Bannockburn and there is a quite serious geographical feature between the two. Then Bendigo is another 30 – 40 kilometres further away from Bannockburn.” To say nothing of the Waitaki Valley, a wine region in its own right that Grant has played a huge role in developing. His first experience of working with grapes from Waitaki was in 2004, and instantly Grant realised that they were unlike anything coming out of Central Otago. “It’s what attracted me to the Waitaki,” he says. “It’s not Central Otago, it’s completely different. To have seen Central Otago develop and then to be able to do that again in the Waitaki, it was like unbelievable, I get two shots at seeing a region develop.” Establishing his own wine company in 1998, named after his great, great grandfather
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Giuseppe Valli, who came out from Italy in the 1860’s, Grant continued working for Gibbston Valley until 2006. For the past 15 years his winemaking skills have been centred on Valli, concentrating on single vineyard wines that emphasise the unique characteristics of the Waitaki and Central sub regions. In the winter issue of World of Wine, five Valli wines were awarded 95 or 96 points by Cameron. (Anything above 95 is considered Classic, an outstanding wine). Of those five, three were from the Waitaki, one from Bendigo and another from Bannockburn. Four were Pinot Noirs and one was a Riesling. Grant’s determination not to mix fruit from different sub regions is certainly paying off. “That is why I started Valli, to show how
different the sub regions are. It is those differences that interests me the most.” It does make life difficult at times he admits. “When you aim to make a single vineyard wine you need to work harder. You can’t rely on being able to add the missing pieces, whether that is tannin or structure. Single vineyard wines don’t give you that option. They all have to stand on their own feet to tell a good story.” Having had the opportunity to watch two wine regions develop, Grant would love to have the chance to see a third – south west Southland, around the township of Nightcaps. “My mother’s father was born in Nightcaps and there are some outcroppings of limestone that face north around there. I think it could be interesting to look at in the future, but not sure if it will happen in my lifetime.” W
Wine May Run In The Blood It’s possible one of New Zealand’s very first winemakers was an Italian by the name of Luigi Valli. He arrived in New Zealand in 1862, via America and Australia where he had been gold mining. He was employed by the Villa Como hotel in Alexandra to produce wine they could sell on site. When Luigi died a few years later, it was recorded that he had no living relatives in New Zealand. That wasn’t quite true, because his brother Giuseppe Valli had arrived in New Zealand straight from Italy, also in 1862, and had no idea his brother was living within a few hundred or so kilometres. Giuseppe was Grant Taylor’s great, great grandfather, which means Luigi was a great, great uncle. Maybe the winemaking gene has been passed on, even if it did skip a few generations.
www.valliwine.com
SIP AND EAT
Cellar Door Dining CAMERON HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF THE BEST CELLAR DOOR DINING IN AOTEAROA.
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ew Zealanders are fairly limited on where they can go these summer months. But just because you can’t travel overseas, doesn’t mean you have to stay at home. We are incredibly fortunate here in Aotearoa that wineries are spread throughout the country. From the very top of the North Island, way down to Central Otago, we have a myriad of places to choose from. Many of our wine regions also offer activities to help build up a hunger or thirst, such as bike trails, hot air ballooning, adrenalin rushes or walking paths for the more sedate. While cellar door visits are a wonderful way to pass some time, don’t limit yourself just to tasting. Prepare ahead, check out 100% Pure New Zealand Wine and Food pages for wineries in the region you want to visit. Many offer the opportunity to immerse yourself in unique and indulgent experiences, such as dining with the winemaker or blending your own wine. Bookings are often essential, so make sure you plan ahead. But perhaps one of the greatest things about visiting our wine regions this summer, is the opportunity to enjoy a long lunch, with some beautiful wines. There are dozens to choose from, but I have chosen six from Northland to Central Otago in the south. All are well worth a visit. Enjoy. W
Photo, New Zealand Winegrowers Inc.
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SIP AND EAT
AKE AKE VINEYARD RESTAURANT, KERI KERI, BAY OF ISLANDS Keri Keri is located in the Bay of Islands, Northland and is a short 15 minute drive from Waitangi in Paihia. Ake Ake is Te Reo (Maori) meaning ‘forever and ever’ which is perfect for this welcoming space for a long lunch. The menu has local, national and international flavours throughout with one of my favourites the locally caught kahawai which is smoked and served with capers as pâté with herb scones and beetroot chutney. Fresh espresso is always done well and all the Ake Ake wines are available to taste and take away. “We use as much local produce as we can - from our vege man, to locally grown avocado and fresh meats from Kamo and Kaitaia. Our aim is to keep it seasonal and fresh,” says proprietor Judy Owen. One of my favourite wines is the Chambourcin, a red wine with a fleshy core of fruit, decent tannin grip and lengthy finish – great with the duck confit on the menu. akeakevineyard.co.nz
Locally sourced seafood is a highlight of the menu at Ake Ake Restaurant.
THE URBAN WINERY, HAWKE’S BAY A modern wine bar and dining space, The Urban Winery is part of the old, and new, industrial section located in vibrant Ahuriri, close to the port of Napier. The building itself has quite a history. Once-upon-a-time being the National Tobacco Company, now it’s a fun and modern venue to dine, listen to music on vinyl or a live band on the weekends and imbibe some outstanding local wines. The menu is tapas style featuring ginger and lemongrass dumplings, a baked goats’ cheese with apricot chutney, spiced plums and croutons or slow cooked sticky pork belly bites with kumara and spiced apples. These are just a few of my recommendations. Seating is a combination of tables for two or four or a captains’ table to meet other food and wine travellers. “Urban wineries are a global trend, bringing together people through winemaking, food and social experiences which are fun and educational. I really wanted to re-engage the public with wine and this concept works really well,” says winemaker and proprietor Tony Bish. The winery, home to Tony Bish’s range of Chardonnays, is on show as you enter the space, showcasing concrete eggs, barrels, tanks and the first wooden egg in the country. theurbanwinery.co.nz
The iconic National Tobacco Company building in Hawke’s Bay is now home to The Urban Winery.
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SIP AND EAT
Platters are Poppies signature dish, and well worth visiting for.
POPPIES TASTING ROOM AND CELLAR DOOR, MARTINBOROUGH Walking, cycling or driving around the Wairarapa feels like home – relaxing, calm and welcoming. Just outside Martinborough proper you’ll find Poppies. What I love about this venue are the small private spaces to dine, indoor or out, to relax and enjoy a bottle of Poppies outstanding Gewürztraminer, Rosé or Méthode Traditionnelle (there’s more to select from too), and a platter food selection feels like the perfect accompaniment. “We’ve always felt like we’re inviting people into our home at Poppies. This was always practiced in the old world, wine and food were always brought together and Poppies is the place to experience our wines accompanied with delicious platters,” says proprietor Poppy Hammond. Poppies is not a traditional restaurant so no a la carte, but the platters are delicious and more than enough for two to share. It’s important to book well ahead of time too. Ultimately this is an experience about tasting and understanding wine with food. poppiesmartinborough.co.nz
HARVEST, MARLBOROUGH Fantastic food in a stunning setting. Less than a year ago I discovered Harvest restaurant in Blenheim. Immediately captivated by the grand setting of old trees, well tended gardens and the Marlborough Hotel, which is very elegant. From October, Harvest will open their new Orangery, which will link the current restaurant to the garden deck. Perfect for enjoying the Marlborough sunshine, in a garden setting surrounded by vines and their own wines under the label TM will be available on site. Harvest Restaurant offers the best dining experience in Marlborough. Chef Toby Stuart sources local produce to craft Michelin level fare including charcoal roasted mussels with Thai curry butter, pork rib-eye with Romesco sauce, butterfish with couscous, pine nuts, basil and rocket. harvestrestaurant.co.nz
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Set among vines and graceful gardens, Harvest offers visitors Michelin level fare.
SIP AND EAT
BLACK ESTATE, NORTH CANTERBURY If your next adventure around Aotearoa has you planning a trip to Canterbury be sure to include dining at Black Estate located in the Waipara Valley. It’s an easy drive from Christchurch or Hanmer Springs and when you get there the location, hospitality and dining are fantastic. It is a popular destination and with limited seating for around 40 indoors and 20 outdoors means it’s best to book. The
menu is outstanding with a range of dishes cooked with organic and local produce. I tend to negotiate with my wife over the main course selection so we both get to try our first and second choices. The wild venison, burnt cabbage, onion and citrus dish is highly recommended as is the beetroot, sunflower butter and buffalo feta cheese. The dining room overlooks one of the vineyards and a
wander through the vines is welcomed, in fact encouraged so learning a little about bio-dynamic and organic farming can be first-hand. “Our biggest focus is that we strive to offer a real farm to table experience, so start in the vineyard - come and have a look, meet some of our vineyard team and have a chat,” says proprietor Penelope Naish. blackestate.co.nz
Just 45 minutes from Christchurch, the setting for Black Estate offers diners views over the Waipara Valley.
GIBBSTON VALLEY, CENTRAL OTAGO Central Otago draws many to the region for its outstanding wines, luxury lodges, adventure sports and food. It’s an easy 15-minute drive from Queenstown to Gibbston, with the entry to the Gibbston Valley Winery site on the right. Here you can enjoy a wine tour within New Zealand’s largest wine cave, a range of platters and light bites, with matching wine at their Cellar Door, or spend the night at the luxurious Lodge and Spa. For the real foodies, look no further than The Winery Restaurant, headed by Executive Chef Anthony Gradiska. My favourite starters include the wild rabbit lasagne with grana padano and truffle as well as the marinated eggplant with blistered heirloom tomato and Ferry Road halloumi dish. From the mains, the 55 day-aged Southland scotch fillet with Café de Paris butter is too good to miss, and the potato gnocchi, pumpkin, sage, pine nuts with pecorino is absolutely delicious. gibbstonvalley.com
One of Cameron’s favourite dishes at Gibbston Valley.
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CHAMPAGNE
Celebrating Champagne
IT IS KNOWN AS THE WINE OF KINGS AND HAS HAD HUNDREDS OF YEARS TO CEMENT ITS REPUTATION. CAMERON EXPLAINS MORE ABOUT CHAMPAGNE.
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sensational wine that complements food and yet shines without it” wrote Don Hewitson in his book The Glory of Champagne first published in 1989. The character and style of champagne has been developed over centuries. Early producers had to trial and learn which were the best grape varieties, master the blending of base wines, controlling the ferment within each bottle to develop the bubble. Then, age and release wines with the signature of the house imprinted within the wine inside each bottle. All that early work has given us what we now appreciate as Champagne. Today, many of the mundane tasks of Champagne production are automated, but the things a machine cannot yet do are taste, adjust the blend, discuss and imprint the voice of the winemaker and house-style into the wine. Champagne is made with up to three varieties including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, each delivering flavour, mouthfeel, finesse and charm. After the additional ferment in bottle, ageing the wine on its lees (in bottle) for at least 18 months layers in the toasty, leesy, brioche and baked goods aromas and flavours. When selecting a bottle of Champagne, specific label terms advise the buyer of style, based on how much sweetness (Residual Sugar or RS) and Cuvée (the blend) the producer adds to the bottle before wiring down a cork prior to labelling. The Cuvée can include aged or barrel-aged wine. Common label terms include: • Brut Naturelle – Bone Dry • Brut – Very Dry, less than 15 grams per litre RS • Extra Sec – Dry to Medium, 12 – 20 grams per litre RS • Sec – Medium, 17 – 35 grams per litre RS • Demi-Sec – Medium to Sweet, 33 – 50 grams per litre RS • Demi Doux – Sweet, 10% RS (rare) • Doux, Rich – Very sweet, over 10% RS (very rare) Also, you may prefer the Blanc de Blancs style from 100 percent Chardonnay fruit or a Blanc de Noir from 100 percent Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier fruit. THERE IS A KNACK TO OPENING CHAMPAGNE. Unwrap the foil, complete six half twists of the wire and loosen the cage (no need to remove the wire). Form a fist around the cork with your thumb on top, hold the cork tight and turn the bottle. The pressure builds and then - a gentle sigh (or pop!) as the pressure inside the bottle equalises with the outside world. You’ve just opened a bottle of celebration - Champagne. W
Champagne Trivia • Winston Churchill is estimated to have drunk 42,000 bottles of Champagne in his lifetime. • There are an estimated 49 million bubbles in a standard sized bottle of Champagne. • A standard size glass emits 30 bubbles every second. • The pressure in a Champagne bottle is about three times the amount of pressure in car tyres. • When popped, a Champagne cork can reach speeds of 64 km/h. • Deaths from flying Champagne corks are more than those of poisonous spiders. • The majority of cork deaths happen at weddings. • Marilyn Monroe once bathed in Champagne. It took more than 350 bottles to fill the tub.
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MÉTHODE MARLBOROUGH
Bubbling Over Locally STEEPED IN TRADITION AND CRAFTED IN EXCELLENCE, MÉTHODE MARLBOROUGH MEMBERS ARE PRODUCING WORLD CLASS MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE.
B
Hand disgorg ing , th
the bott le. om t fr en
uying local has never been more and in turn safeguards the consistency of the important than now. So when you are wine across the region. The last thing the region considering what sparkling wine you wants is for a wine of poor quality out there in want to place on the table this summer, the market place, diminishing the reputation of think New Zealand. all producers. Champagne may have the cachet when it Méthode Marlborough producers think comes to name, but it doesn’t hold all the cards along the same line. “We call out wine Méthode when it comes to quality. Traditionelle, because it is a sparkling wine made Méthode Marlborough, a consortium of 12 in the very traditional way, to guarantee quality,” producers, has taken all the French quality marks Dan says. and applied them to their own sparkling wines. And he advises consumers not to get hung up Those strict benchmarks mean all wines must be on the idea that sparkling wine is for celebrating 100 percent grown and made in Marlborough. only. Nothing could be further from the truth. They must be made using the traditional It is one of the food friendliest wines method of production – which around and while it might not be the emoving th r f o es ss ed means the second fermentation best match for spicy or overtly oce r i m ep takes place in the bottle, flavoursome dishes, just about followed by the intricate anything else is fair game. riddling and disgorging “A Tohu Blanc de Blanc process. The wines can only once won the best wine be made from Pinot Noir, and food match at the Chardonnay and Pinot Burleigh Pie competition in Meunier, either individually Blenheim, matching with or as a blend. And all their gourmet pork belly pie. Méthode Marlborough The match was sublime.” wines must be aged for a Then again Dan recommends minimum of 18 months. This is a margherita pizza teamed up actually three months longer than with a Méthode Marlborough Rosé. Champagne dictates. It is an important “Méthode Marlborough on the beach with aspect of the quality says Dan Taylor, Chair of some fish and chips is a winner. I have done this Méthode Marlborough. “Perfect Méthode is one in Kaikoura, the views made it even better.” that is cared for over a good amount of time, He says it doesn’t always need to be caviar, by winemakers who have the dedication and crayfish or oysters, (although these are perfect commitment to produce this style. Over this pairings), there are plenty of everyday options time, the wines develop complex flavour profiles that work just as well. and a nice refreshing finish.” The 12 members of Méthode Marlborough are; The reasoning behind the strict criteria for Allan Scott Family Winemakers, Hunter’s Wines, the making of the Méthode Traditionelle is Johanneshof Cellars, LV Wines, Nautilus Estate, No.1 also something learned from Champagne. In Family Estate, Pernod Ricard, Saint Clair Family France the standards are enforced to ensure every Estate, Spy Valley Wines, Tohu Wines, Whitehaven producer meets a minimum quality standard, Wines, Esse Wines and Wither Hills. W
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s ou amPartnerships FWine
WINE AND THE FAMOUS
TESSA NICHOLSON DISCOVERS HOW A NEW ZEALAND WINE COMPANY ATTRACTED FAMOUS NAMES TO PARTNER WITH THEM.
New Zealand Wine In The City. Sarah Jessica Parker with the wine she has happily lent her name to.
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WINE AND THE FAMOUS
C
elebrity endorsements are nothing new, with companies the world over keen to have someone famous as the face of their product. Wine is no different, with everyone from Mick Fleetwood to Snoop Dogg lending their name to a wine brand. But no wine company can just walk up to a celebrity and expect them to endorse their wine, without first proving that they are worthwhile being associated with. New Zealand’s Invivo & Co are proof of that. Co-founder Tim Lightbourne says he cheekily approached the production team of Graham Norton’s show back in 2011, after
noticing that the host and his guests always seemed to have a glass of wine on hand. He questioned the team about where they were getting their wine from and was surprised to learn it was being bought from a local store. When he asked if they would be keen for Invivo & Co to send them a case of wine a week, they jumped at the idea. “It was free wine for them after all,” Tim says. Three years later, and Tim and Rob Cameron (the other co-founder), suggested to Graham that he might like to make his own wine under the Invivo brand. “We sent him the information about what we were doing and how he could be involved.
They began their business in a flat, now they work alongside Sarah Jessica Parker and Graham Norton to produce wines.
That famous Graham Norton grin shows how much he enjoys his blending session, with Rob Cameron.
Legendary Wine Partnerships Invivo & Co are not the only wine company in the world to pair their brand with someone famous. There are a number of large names who have morphed into either celebrity endorser, or owner of a winery. Film director Francis Ford Coppola became involved in the Napa wine industry back in 1975. He later expanded to Sonoma Valley. His Diamond collection is the number three brand in the US’s super premium category. Musician Sting owns Tenuta il Palagio in Tuscany. He and wife Trudy were convinced to buy it after being offered a glass of wine by the previous owner. Only problem was the wine they had been seduced by, didn’t actually come from the winery itself. The pair have spent the past 20 years rebuilding the vineyards and winery. Actors and now divorcees Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie have owned Château Miraval in Provence since 2008. The couple were married in the chapel on site six years later. Since divorce proceedings began five years ago, the possibility of the Château being sold has never been far from the news. Rapper Jay Z bought a 50 percent stake in French Champagne brand Armand de Brignac, known as Ace of Spades back in 2006, and promoted it via his music videos. In 2014 he bought the company outright and just earlier this year sold half to Moet Hennessey the wine and spirits division of luxury goods company LVMH. Singer Kylie Minogue launched her own range of wines in 2020, partnering with a range of companies from Australia, Italy and France. Her range includes Rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cava and Prosecco. Rapper Snoop Dogg has partnered with Australian company 19 Crimes, to release Cali Red. Our own Sam Neil has his own winery, but doesn’t actually have his name on the label. Two Paddocks he says, stands on its own merits. Another New Zealander with his own winery is cinematographer Michael Seresin, who owns vineyards in Marlborough supplying his Seresin label. Actor Gérard Depardieu owns Chateau de Tigne in the Loire Valley and vineyards in France, Morocco, Spain, Sicily and the US. His veracity for owning vineyards is only topped by his ability to consume. He recently told a French film magazine that he can drink up to 14 bottles of wine a day.
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WINE AND THE FAMOUS
He had a good knowledge of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and he realised that this was a region that was really firing.” As Tim eludes, the partnership didn’t happen overnight, it was a progression from enjoying the wine on the show, to being able to play a role in its creation. Basically, it was three years for the star to confirm the quality of the product and ensure it was a laudable collaboration. One of the differences with Invivo’s approach was to offer Graham the opportunity to have a major say in the production. Tim says they offered him the chance to blend the wines to his own palate. “He loves his wine and has tried wines from all round the world. He knows what he likes and he has a really good palate. So, we do blending sessions with him for a few hours every year, where he tastes the Sauvignon from various areas of Marlborough, such as the Awatere and Wairau. He can pick out the different styles that we are trying to do.” Those blending sessions have taken on a publicity profile of their own. In one year, Graham was delivered grapes that had been picked in Marlborough and flown direct to London for him to physically stomp, releasing the juice for the final wine. Then in 2021, due to Covid travel restrictions, the blending session was held via Zoom, with Tim and Rob sitting in the middle of Eden Park, while Graham passed on his thoughts via the largest television screen in the country. It may look like a gimmick, but Tim says Graham is the one who makes all the final decisions on what goes into the wine bearing his name on the label.
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Tim Lightbourne (left), Sarah Jessica Parker and Rob Cameron blending Ivivo X, SJP Sauvignon Blanc.
“We weren’t just sending him a finished wine and saying here it is, with your name on it. He was able to choose the blend, just like any other winemaker would do.” The success, particularly in the UK and Ireland has been phenomenal and got Tim and fellow co-founder Rob Cameron thinking about other collaborations. With the UK reacting so positively to the Graham Norton Sauvignon Blanc, the pair began to wonder if they could replicate the success in the US. “We looked around at who would be a great partner for this collaboration, not just from an awareness point of view, but for someone who wanted to be involved in the signing off of labels, strategy and someone who had longevity and was on top of their game.” Sex in the City star, Sarah Jessica Parker was at the top of the list. But not knowing her at all, Tim decided to make a pitch to her agent. “I made a presentation and he liked what we had done with Graham, the accolades and the growth of the brand. So the next stage was pitching our concept to Sarah Jessica.” She appeared keen, but no contract was signed, so Tim and Rob flew to New York and met with her in person. “We opened a bottle of our Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and talked for an afternoon about how we would roll this out in more detail. And we explained what a blending session is, as she had never done a blending before. It was quite intimidating for her.” Long story short, Sarah Jessica Parker agreed and partnered with Invivo in 2019, with the
release of Invivo X, SJP Sauvignon Blanc. The X followed by a comma is how SJP signs off her emails and Instagram and seemed like the perfect personal touch to highlight the partnership. The label’s X is a direct copy of one that Sarah Jessica painted with her finger. Not just content to blend the wines with the Invivo team, SJP has attended buyers’ meetings and presented to those attending. She has met with distributors and presented to the LCBO, Ontario’s Liquor Board on behalf of Invivo. Tim says she is very much a part of the team. Both her and Graham Norton now own shares in the company, a true indication that this is a partnership, not a celebrity endorsement Tim says. As for the two Sauvignon Blancs, Tim says they are very different. Invivo X, SJP Sauvignon Blanc is less acidic than Graham’s, according to Tim. “Less tropical, more restrained and it has more weight in it, with some oak. We were led by her palate for the US, maybe that is more the US style.” Graham Norton’s Sauvignon Blanc is tropical, with nice acidity Tim says, more the typical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. “We manage to do that consistently every year.” As for the future, he won’t rule out other partnerships, but it needs to be the right person, in the right market to ensure there is no clash with Graham’s or Sarah Jessica’s. “They sit nicely, complement each other and are two different styles. We wouldn’t go off and do a whole load of them because we don’t want to dilute what we already have.” W
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ROSEY ROSÉ
e s i R The é s o R of TEN YEARS AGO YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN HARD PRESSED TO FIND A RANGE OF AOTEAROA ROSÉ WINES. THAT HAS ALL CHANGED NOW, AS CAMERON EXPLAINS.
Photo, New Zealand Winegrowers Inc.
W
ith the prediction of an especially warm and sunny summer 2022 - cafes, restaurants and wine retail stores will again be well stocked with a plethora of Rosé wine options. Rosé continues its stratospheric rise in popularity and with endorsements and new options from stars like Graham Norton and Kylie Minogue the category is set to grow and become more competitive. France remains the world leader in production and consumption and along with Spain, the two account for two thirds of global production. The USA and Germany take second and third place on consumption stats. In 2020 over 59 million bottles of Rosé left France for destinations around the world including Aotearoa - New Zealand. The popularity of locally produced Rosé has increased significantly with enough producers now making this style, that exports have increased too, growing from just over half a million litres in 2011 to nearly 8 million litres in 2021.
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Rosé is typically produced from red grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Merlot, Tempranillo and Syrah. The Cabernets and red blends are also widely used locally. All wine regions in New Zealand produce Rosé style wines. In France too all wine regions produce Rosé yet it is Provence, the Rosé capital, where the greatest volume and leading styles are produced. The varieties used there include Cinsault, Mouvédre, Grenache, Syrah and Tibouren. Rosé is made by pressing the juice from red grapes, allowing a short skin contact period to extract some colour, lots of flavour but little to no tannin and lots of acidity. Aromas and flavours can include light red berry fruits and apple to apricot, saffron, flowers and chilled fruit tea. New oak is rarely used, fruit from organic and bio-dynamically farmed vineyards is increasingly used and wild or natural ferments add to the texture and complexity of many expressions. The question of colour often comes up in Rosé discussions, but if you lined up all the Rosé wines available in New Zealand, you’d see
at least fifty different hues of red to pink, and onion skin to salmon. The fact is all colours of Rosé are correct, there is no guidebook on colour, but it appears the trend recently has been towards salmon or pale apricot hued versions. Worldwide production based on colour shows that in 2013, 49 percent of wines that were very pale to onion skin and apricot hued have increased to 69 percent in 2018. The pinks and reds correspondingly decreased from 51 percent to 41. Price is not necessarily indicative of quality when it comes to Rosé with the vast majority of wines showcasing fresh, juicy fruit flavours, dry to just dry in style and many with a mineral core. If you’re searching for a more serious expression of Rosé, pay particular attention towards aroma and structure for example using indigenous ferments for complexity, the use of older oak for structure, some longer skin contact time for more mouthfeel and a minerality revealing a sense of place for the best examples. W See Cameron's Rosé tasting notes on page 51.
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CHEESE AND WINE
Cheers Cheese WANTING TO MATCH YOUR FAVOURITE WINE WITH THE PERFECT CHEESE? CAMERON EXPLAINS HOW.
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y first memories of eating cheese were toasted sandwiches or in my lunch box for school. I remember the convenience of unwrapping a slice of cheese and slapping it between two slices of bread for a snack. I didn’t really understand the world of cheese until I started working in kitchens learning to cook. The breadth and depth of choice and how cheese was used in food and for wine pairings was endless and still is. Connoisseurs of cheese are not too dissimilar to those of us who are passionate about wine; we love sharing our discoveries, passion and knowledge. Whether your personal preference is for goat’s milk, cow’s milk, sheep milk, buffalo milk, raw or pasteurised – the way cheese is made, matured, used in cooking, as a topping or on a cheese board, there are some fantastic wine pairings to discover. Cheeses comes in eight basic styles or varieties including blue, hard, pasta filata (think Mozzarella), processed, semi-hard, semi-soft, soft and fresh and soft-ripened. Which wine pairs best with cheese depends largely on what attributes cheese has that influences the structure and flavour of wine. Important attributes in cheese to consider when finding a wine match include texture, weight, acidity, rind, intensity of flavour, protein, adjuncts or add-ons such as truffle, apricot or nut and temperature. To begin to understand how cheese and wine pairing works it’s best to first choose a wine that you really like or drink regularly so you will notice the changes cheese makes to the wine when the pairing happens. The basic process requires a clean palate, so no residue from coffee, chewing gum or intensely flavoured or spicy food before you start. Taste your favourite wine by holding the liquid in your palate for a few seconds, rinse around and swallow (or expectorate), do the same again so that your palate is conditioned to the wine. Next take a normal sip of wine, rinse and swallow. Take note of what your internal scale for acidity, weight, texture, intensity and flavour tells you. Take a bite of the cheese you have selected, chew, let your palate start to warm and melt the cheese, macerate with your saliva and then push the cheese against the roof of your palate to finish melting it and then swallow. This technique ensures your palate is covered in protein, texture, fat and flavour from the cheese. Now try the wine again and re-measure the structure. Wine will be affected by the cheese and you will need to note if the wine tastes better or worse and what has changed. Protein in cheese changes perceptions of acid and tannin levels in wine. It also affects the intensity of fruit, earth and subtlety in wine. If all you can taste is cheese then the wine is not powerful enough. If the wine becomes flabby, has lost its flavour or is too creamy then the cheese is too acidic and powerful. If the wine turns bitter then the cheese has too many adjuncts or flavour additions or may have a rind that is too salty or hard. I like chewing wine and cheese at the same time to determine if a match is good or not.
Takes practice, but works well and is quick. There are many artisan cheese makers throughout Aotearoa, with many available only in their region because of size, they are truly artisan or may just supply the local market. There are a few specialist cheese curators that you can tap into, for example; theartisanhub. co.nz has a fantastic selection, so opportunities to experience product from around Aotearoa can get a lot more interesting. Some classic pairings to explore include: Chévre or goat’s milk cheeses with Gruner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc. Make sure the wines are young and fresh like the cheese. Room temperature for the cheese and not too cold for the wine provide the best match scenarios. Flore sardo, tomme or ricotta cheese with dry Italian white wines such as Vermentino, or local wines with zero oak which are very crisp and mineral such as Pinot Blanc or Pinot Grigio styles. Triple cream, young Gruyére, brie and Époisses match extremely well with Chardonnay or similarly full-bodied wine like a white Rhone. Be sure the wine isn’t too oaky, but is as full-bodied and creamy as the cheese. Also, the cheese and wine match better when both are ambient. Roquefort, blue vein, Stilton, and many blue cheeses (though not all) pair well with sweet wines, but not just any sweet wine. The wine has to be very high in acidity and residual sweetness. Late harvest or botrytised Semillon, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc can be excellent matches. If you prefer red wine with blue then be sure the wine is either quite young so has the acidity and tannin to manage blue’s power, or a fortified – like Port or Madeira. Also, if there is tannin in a wine, red or white, note that the protein in the cheese reduces the impact of tannin making the wine smoother and more satin in texture. Raclette, Havarti or edam cheese pairs well with dry to offdry Riesling. Soft rind cheeses such as délice de Bourgogne and brie are great pairings with New Zealand Méthode Traditionnelle, Champagne or Crémant. High tannin and high acid red wines like Chianti (Sangiovese) and Barolo (Nebbiolo) are excellent partners with hard cheeses like aged Parmesan or aged Gruyere, pecorino and Asiago. Comté, young Gruyere, cow’s milk cheeses, or softer delicately flavoured cheese can find a great partnership with Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir and cheese are very much a trial and error journey, but when you find the right wine and cheese match it can be heavenly. Try a truffled cheese and Pinot Noir and see where that takes you. Bold or intensely fruity red wines such as Malbec, Zinfandel and young Syrah match well with cheeses that are hard or semi-hard with an intense flavour, are high in acidity or have a powerful rind. Sheep cheese, aged goat’s milk cheese and even some haloumi can pair well. W
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WINE AND CHOCOLATE
Chocolate Delight AS THE SAYING GOES, CHOCOLATE MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER. ESPECIALLY WINE.
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hocolate comes from the fruit of cacao trees called pods, with each pod containing around 40 cacao beans. These beans have a bitter taste when raw so to prepare them for making chocolate they are fermented to develop some of the flavour and dramatically reduce bitterness. The beans are then dried, cleaned and roasted so the shell can be removed to reveal cacao nibs. Nibs are the good stuff carrying all the familiar aromas and flavours we know and love so much in chocolate. The nibs are ground into a cacao mass making a kind of pure chocolate in a rough and ready form for commercial use. There are several strains of beans that come from the cacao tree and depending on where the trees are grown, produce one of four main varieties. Criollo is quite rare grown mainly in Central America and the Caribbean. The Forastero grow mainly in Brazil and Africa; the Nacional comes mainly from South America, while the Trinitario, which is a cross of Criollo and Forastero, is grown across many locations, is hardy and provides a lot of bulk cacao. Most of the chocolate and wine pairings you have likely encountered so far are probably when the chocolate is used in a dessert. Sugar is often an ingredient in desserts as well so this means the wine to be paired needs to be sweet as well to manage the overall sweetness in the dish. While this works well, the best opportunities to pair chocolate with different wines can be lost. Chocolate goulash, Mexican beef chilli mole or a savoury sauce using chocolate can transform a dish, but also create some fantastic opportunities to pair dry or semi-dry wine. To see how this works best you need to start with the chocolate, understand its texture in the palate and learn to appreciate it without sugar and most definitely without palm oil. High cacao content chocolate is best for red wine because chocolate with low or no sugar creates more complete synergies with the richness, core of fruit and
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tannin structure in the wine. When protein from an entrée or a main course is combined with chocolate, a red wine match becomes a lot more complex and compelling. To understand the match process, use a wine-food-wine sequence. Open a bold style of red wine like a Cabernet blend or young Malbec, take a big sip, holding the liquid in your palate for a few seconds, rinse around and swallow (or expectorate), do the same again so that your palate is conditioned to the wine. Take a small bite of high cacao count chocolate of at least 50 percent, chew it up, melt it in the palate and when it starts to soften push the chocolate mass against the roof of your mouth with your tongue, rubbing it with your tongue forcing it to turn into a soft butter texture. Swallow the mass then take a sip of the wine again and discover how the attributes of red and chocolate like each other. Once you understand this marriage repeat the process a few times to teach your palate memory. A classic match to then try is by grating some dark chocolate into the gravy you might typically serve with red meat. Melt it in the sauce and serve as normal. Another classic match to discover is a dark chocolate and red beetroot cake with dark chocolate icing and sparkling red wine or a young oak-free Gamay. Other pairings I have successfully demonstrated with chocolate include – Pet Nat, Madeira, Port, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Champagne. Orange wine can be remarkably good with chocolate. Unfortunately, white and milk chocolate with wine are difficult pairings because of the sugar needed to produce the chocolate. The best matches with white and milk chocolate tend to be with sweet wines unless the chocolate is heavily flavoured with fresh berries or herbs, then a match with a drier wine or red become possible. Dark chocolate flavoured with chilli is difficult to match with wine while chocolate flavoured with dates or raisins are easy pairings. W
INTERNATIONAL WINES
Travel the
d l r o W e n i W YOU DON’T NEED TO LEAVE AOTEAROA TO TASTE INTERNATIONAL WINES. CAMERON HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF THE BEST AVAILABLE HERE AT HOME.
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n the past 12 months, more than 41 million litres of wine imports arrived in New Zealand. Australian wine is the largest import, followed by France, Italy, Chile and South Africa. We also import varying amounts from Argentina, Spain and other countries. Of that total amount, nearly 19 million litres is white wine, 16.5 million litres red, 3.8 million litres sparkling wine, 1.5 million litres of Champagne, and the rest from fortified wines. What this means is that there is a wide range of wine options for you to select from. The challenge is to reach for brands that you may not be familiar with and stepping up your purchase price maximum by $10.00 a bottle, if you can. So make a $15.00 purchase $25.00 or a $29.00 purchase $39.00. Investment wines from $75.00 to $200.00 plus are also worth a look. If you’re planning a trip to your local wine shop or specialist liquor store to look for some wine inspiration, don’t forget you can find some fine wines at almost any price point in your budget from Australia, France, Italy, Spain, Chile, South Africa and Argentina. To get you started here are some wines from each of those countries to add to your shopping cart. My advice is drink less just better. W AUSTRALIA Castagna Growers Collection Chardonnay 2016. From Victoria, this Chardonnay is silky textured with a nutty vanilla cream appeal and very complex. $70.00. glengarrywines.co.nz
Grant Burge Holy Trinity GSM 2017. From South Australia, this Grenache, Shiraz and Mouvedre blend ticks the box for weight, intensity and deliciousness, as well as being food friendly. $34.99. glengarrywines.co.nz
FRANCE Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly 7 Vignes 2019. From the Beaujolais in the very hard south of Burgundy, this Gamay red wine is floral and fruity with flavours of fresh red berries. Lowish tannins, elegant and earthy. $43.50. mvauron.co.
Chateau du Seuil Graves Blanc 2017. A delicious white Bordeaux blend of Semillon and Sauvignon with a waxy, satin textured palate and flavours of white stone fruits and citrus. $37.00. mvauron.co.nz
ITALY Pipoli ‘Zero’ Aglianico del Vulture 2018. From the Basilicata region, the southern reaches of Italy’s mainland, this wine has a velvet texture from fine through moderate tannins, dark fruited core and balanced, persistent finish. $30.00. cahns.co.nz
Prunotto Moscato d’Asti 2017. With lower alcohol, this is a deliciously fruity and floral expression. Perfect as an aperitif and with lightly spiced seafood dishes. $32.00. cahns.co.nz
SPAIN Vina Tondonia - Rioja Tinto Reserva 2006. This is an incredible wine, a benchmark for the Rioja region. Based on Tempranillo and Garnacha this wine has power and finesse, sweet American oak and a lush toasty quality. $75.00. cahns.co.nz
Delgado Zuleta Fino, Southern Spain. Sherry makes for one of the best aperitif beverages with its salty, mealy texture and fine
fruit flavours. Great for a myriad of cocktails as well. $35.00. cahns.co.nz
SOUTH AFRICA Haute Cabriere - ‘Ratafia’ Fortified Chardonnay 2015, Franschhoek. With 150 grams residual sugar and 18 percent abv, this unfermented fortified beverage is creamy, sweet and delicious on its own or with cheese. $35.00. cahns.co.nz
CHILE Errazuriz Don Manimiano Cabernet 2015, Aconcagua Valley. For the cellar, for a friend or just you, this is an incredible example of power, ripeness, richness and texture. $130.00. glengarrywines.co.nz
Montes Alpha Black Chardonnay 2015, Curico Valley. Full-bodied, rich and warm with flavours of orange melon and stone fruits, exotic nuts and oaky power. $36.99. glengarrywines.co.nz
ARGENTINA Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec 2014, Mendoza. Powerful, rich in flavour and concentration of fruit, minerality and complexity. Extremely expressive, spicy textured and long. $165.00. glengarrywines.co.nz
Zuccardi Q Cabernet 2015. This expression is all about fruit and texture, moderate acidity and fine tannins. A low oak style, firm, dry and elegant. $34.99. glengarrywines.co.nz
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THE GROWTH OF NATURAL WINES IN AOTEAROA IS GAINING MOMENTUM. BUT WHAT ACTUALLY IS A NATURAL WINE?
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Natural Wine on illt M c. .In W Z N to, Pho
here is no absolute definition of a natural wine, but a knowledge and insight into permaculture could help your understanding. A permaculture is a specific and holistic approach to farming such as bio-dynamic or organically farmed land. Holistically farmed land considers the health of the soil and how it is fed with nutrients and minerals, the health of the vine and how it too is nourished, what can encourage it to grow better, and protection from pests and diseases. Grapes that are harvested from land farmed in this way can show more of their inherent and indigenous aromas and flavours than land that is manipulated by man-made sprays and soil additives. Wine doesn’t miraculously make itself, so setting up the right conditions for a clean ferment is essential. How a winemaker manages the fruit once it arrives at the winery is the next critical step towards making fresh, real and more naturally flavoured wine. The fermentation must occur spontaneously and naturally. This means the juice and solids obtained from the crush need to warm up slowly, in their own time, till all the indigenous yeast population are engaged and start converting sugar to alcohol and flavour. For natural wine, a winemaker’s intervention must be kept to a minimum and occur without the use of additives or processing aids. The use of bentonite clay and preservative such as sulphur dioxide, both natural, how much is used and when they are applied depends on the producer and how they would like the wine protected once in bottle. Oak is a natural product and using this as a medium to ferment or age wine in has been practiced for several hundred years. The benefits oak can bring to wine, has been well documented. Oak trees grown for the wine sector is an important and renewable resource too with dedicated forests and replanting programs planned many decades in advance. Natural wines typically have no fining or filtration of the finished wine post ferment, so what’s in the bottle you buy has a significant amount of naturally occurring micro-biology and as much natural taste or flavour as possible. Orange wine is best described as a category of natural wine, a white wine, where the use of sulphur dioxide and other natural stabilising or preserving additions are not used. These wines also make use of skin contact practices that can replace some additions. The flavour profile of these wines is distinctive, but do note that these wine oxidise more quickly turning different shades of orange. The best examples I have tasted have included some sulphur dioxide protection. The taste, texture and lexicon of descriptors for natural wines expands into more descriptive language as our perceptions of what wine actually is, is challenged. In some ways it’s like explaining the difference between organic milk bought from the farmer’s gate rather than one you buy from the supermarket, both have an audience. For many, it’s about what exactly you’re putting into your body and for others, exploration of wine’s real or natural taste. My advice is to first seek wines that are certified bio-gro, have no fining or filtration and sulphur preservative is used to protect the wine from spoilage between bottling and consumption. W
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Grand Openings CAMERON EXPLAINS TWO SYSTEMS THAT HELP PRESERVE WINE SEALED WITH CORKS.
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wine bottle closure is a necessary part of the packaging, preventing liquid leaking from the bottle until such time as you are ready to undo it and start imbibing the contents. Corks, whether natural or fabricated, vinolok glass closures and screwcaps made from tin, aluminium or plastic are the most common wine bottle closures. There has long been an art to opening a bottle of wine closed with a cork and many a tool designed to make it look easy. Corkscrews or wine-keys have myriad designs, blades to cut the sleeve, different lengths for the worm and one or two lever mechanisms to pull the cork out. Broken corks and pieces of cork inside the bottle have been part and parcel of the journey to getting a cork out successfully. A screwcap just needs your two hands, one to hold the sleeve and the other to twist the bottle. Vinolok closures are a twist off or may require a bit of leverage from a flat, blunt blade or regular wine key (please don’t use a screwdriver). One potential issue with corks is that they can expand quickly once removed from a bottle so getting it back in again, especially if you don’t want to finish the bottle, can be a challenge. Preservative systems and different replacement seals have been long offered to consumers as a means by which to protect wine once open, some good while others, just gimmicks. Screwcaps are easy to put back on as are vinoloks. There are two extremely useful and reliable tools available that can assist in your enjoyment of wine. One is the Coravin, a dispensing and preserving system in one; the other is a Durand, which uses two different cork removing tools as one. A Coravin cradles the neck of a wine bottle to guide a needle through the middle of the cork. Using a Coravin means the cork stays in the neck of the bottle and is not removed at all. There is a housing at the back of the unit which contains a small replaceable cylinder holding the preserving gas. One cylinder can easily last five or more bottles. A Durand
A toughened needle attached to a cradle is pushed through the cork to access the wine. The bottle and Coravin unit, now connected, are tilted to the normal angle for pouring and with the press of a lever on the top of the unit dispenses gas into the bottle simultaneously releasing wine through the dispensing aperture into the glass. The oxidising and degrading effects of air are no longer a factor so a single bottle of wine can last months once some or a lot of the wine is extracted. Coravin also have a screwcap version that requires the user to open a screwcap closed wine, quickly replacing it with a Coravin designed screwcap. The needle of the unit pierces the top of the new screwcap to access the wine. One screwcap can withstand up to thirty or more piercings. A Durand is specifically designed to remove corks from old bottles of wine or a cork that you know may crumble or is stuck in the neck of the bottle. The Durand is a two piece and very simple three step system. After removing the protective sleeve from the bottle, screw in the worm section of the Durand through the centre of the cork. Next take the other piece of the Durand (it looks like a flat-bladed-long-pronged-fork with the centre piece missing) and start rocking the prongs down either side of the cork eventually resting on top of the first part of the Durand. The cork is now squeezed tightly against the screw/worm and slightly away from the interior wall of the bottle neck. In unison grab both pieces of the unit twisting and pulling the cork at the same time. You’ll be surprised how easy this works. After you’ve done this with a half-dozen bottles, you’ll be an expert. In exciting news, Coravin will be releasing into the Aotearoa market sometime in 2022 a new unit designed to dispense sparkling wine whilst maintaining the pressure and sparkle inside the bottle. This means a single bottle can last for several weeks once opened. They will also be releasing the next generation of the regular Coravin that can dispense a glass of wine in about five seconds. W
The Corovin
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NOT ALL BEEF IS C R E AT E D E Q UA L .
T H E T O P 4 % O F O U R N E W Z E A L A N D B E E F. RESERVED FOR YOU. Silver Fern Farms Reserve is a grass-fed, pasture-raised New Zealand beef with no equal. Our Eating Quality System grades every carcass for the qualities that create exceptional beef, and only 4 carcases in 100 will earn it. Grass-fed and pasture-raised, from the rarest of places, with the rarest of skills, comes a rare promise – extraordinary eating quality, guaranteed.
silverfernfarms.com
RECIPES AND WINE MATCHES
Consumer Led
Silver Fern Farms KEEPING AHEAD OF WHAT CONSUMERS WANT, IS THE MANTRA OF SILVER FERN FARMS.
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ew Zealand’s Silver Fern Farms is steeped in history, with the original farmers’ cooperative going back to 1948. But CE Simon Limmer says the story goes even further back to the 1880’s when the very first refrigerated shipment of meat left the port of Dunedin. “New Zealand’s history with meat and meat exports is really deep, it was our very first economic industry.” Silver Fern Farms is now this country’s largest exporter of beef, lamb and venison, with 90 percent of all production heading to overseas markets. With more than 15,000 farmers supplying product, and 7000 people employed in their 14 plants throughout New Zealand, the company processes around 15 million stock units every year. Through all of that, Silver Fern Farms is adamant that everything produced is geared towards the consumer. The mantra is Plate to Pasture, and not the other way round. “It is deliberately written that way as the consumer comes first,” Simon says. “The plate is the first thing we need to be thinking about and then of course the pasture is the means of responding to what consumers are looking for. We’re really proud of our farmer suppliers and the quality of what they produce. As a business, we see ourselves as helping to tell their story into high-end restaurants and consumers right across the globe.” And consumers are forever changing, with Simon saying the most important focus for many is the quality of what they are eating, not just nutritionally but also in terms of production sustainability. While here in New Zealand we expect our meat to have come from
grass fed animals, he says that is not the case in many other countries. “For us it really demonstrates the natural environment the animals have lived in, the life they have led and ultimately this is probably the most sustainable and natural way of producing red meat.” Being raised on grass alone impacts on the quality of the end product. “It is definitely leaner, it is likely to have a more natural flavour and will be healthier. Healthier for the animal and healthier for the consumer.” As for what products are the most popular, Simon says that differs depending on country. Beef is always a good bet, given it is a wellestablished category around the world. “Lamb is a lot more niche, which we don’t think of here in New Zealand because it is something we are very familiar with. Then venison is very niche. It probably appeals to consumers who understand game foods and are looking for something a bit different on the menu.” Portion sizes and ranges of cuts are also changing as consumers look for food that complements the whole eating experience. “I think the way we prepare the meat, how it is being cooked, what style it might be mixed with and the occasion where people are eating the meat, it is certainly a much more exciting proposition than it would have been 20 or 30 years ago.” W Over the next few pages, we have recipes utilising Silver Fern Farm products, created by the company’s partner chefs. Perfect for entertaining over the coming summer months.
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RECIPES AND WINE MATCHES
Reserve Eye Fillet and Short Rib with Kumara, Wasabi and Soy Chilli Butter Recipe by Mat Mclean INGREDIENTS FOR THE DISH → Reserve Eye Fillet (150g) → 3 baby turnips, peeled → 1 small kumara, peeled → 10g pickled ginger → 20g wasabi paste → Furikake seasoning → 30g smoked butter → 6 shittaki mushrooms, sliced → 50g Short Rib, cooked and warmed in chilli soy butter sauce → Coriander leaves
TO MAKE THE SHORT RIB FOR THIS DISH INGREDIENTS → 500g Silver Fern Farms Beef Short Rib → 500ml beef stock → 75ml soy sauce → 100g smoked butter
Season and cook the Reserve Eye Fillet to your liking and rest.
AROMATICS → 1 cinnamon stick → 1 red chilli, chopped → 1 bunch coriander roots, save the leaves for the main recipe, for garnish → 2 star anise → 1 ginger, chopped
Roast kumara and baby turnips in smoked butter until tender.
Bring stock to boil, add aromatics and soy sauce.
Saute shittaki mushrooms and season to taste.
Add Short Rib and braise at 180 degrees until falling off the bone.
Smear wasabi paste from top to bottom of plate using the back of a spoon.
Remove the Short Rib and set aside.
Arrange cooked vegetables, Short Rib, ginger and sliced eye fillet along the strip of wasabi on the plate. Sprinkle with furikake, spoon sauce over the plated food and garnish with coriander leaves to serve.
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Strain the stock and reduce the mixture to a syrup. Remove from heat and whisk butter to form a sauce. Warm to serve for the Eye Fillet dish, taking care not to let the sauce re-boil.
Cam’s Wine Match
Kennedy Point Reserve Malbec 2019, Waiheke Island. kennedypointvineyard.com This match is based on the meat cooked rare to medium and well rested, but recognises the umami effect of the mushrooms, cinnamon and soy sticky sauce. There is also some significant after taste from the ginger, anise and chilli to factor in. This requires a wine with power, with a core of fruit to recognise the spices and deliciousness of the protein and sauce combination. Kennedy Point’s Malbec does this perfectly with its bold, dark fruited core, firm tannins and acidity to match. There’s also some sweet oak spices and moments of dark chocolate that work well with sweet jus and chilli. This wine is also complex and very lengthy.
RECIPES AND WINE MATCHES
Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder with Smoked Carrot Puree Recipe by Logan Coath LAMB SHOULDER → 1 Silver Fern Farms Lamb Shoulder, boned and rolled → Enough lamb or beef stock to cover → 1 carrot → 1 stick celery → 1 brown onion → 2 cloves garlic, whole → Thyme or rosemary → 2 bay leaves TO PREPARE A DAY IN ADVANCE Season and roast lamb at 220 degrees for 20 minutes to render the fat off, then cover with hot stock. Tightly cover and cook at 150 degrees for 4 - 5 hours depending on size. Allow to cool in the stock, then set in the fridge overnight.
→ 25g coriander seeds → 25g black and white sesame seeds Toast for 8 - 10 minutes at 160 degrees then coarsely chop by hand. CARROT CHIPS Finely slice 1 large carrot on a mandolin and deep fry at 150 degrees till crisp and bright orange. They may need an hour or two in a dehydrator or in a low oven to crisp up nicely. Season with flaky salt. RED CABBAGE Cut 1/2 a red cabbage into 4 wedges being sure to leave the root attached so they stay together. Pan fry then roast in a scorching hot oven till blackened on one face. Turn and baste with butter.
TO SERVE Roast your pre-cooked lamb portions at 200 degrees for about 8 - 10 minutes till crispy and hot. Warm your lamb sauce and smoked carrot puree. Place a dollop of smoked carrot puree in the centre of each plate, with crispy roasted lamb portion, then glaze the lamb with the lamb reduction. Add a tablespoon of sunflower tahini, then sprinkle with the seed dukkah. To garnish, use sunflower shoots, drizzle with pomegranate molasses and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds.
The next day, remove lamb and slice into even portions (200g approx). To serve, we will roast it in a hot oven until crisp. Take all the fat off the stock and make a lamb reduction with the braising liquid. SMOKED CARROT PUREE → 3 large table carrots → 375ml cream Boil carrots in salted water till tender and then strain. Return to the pot with cream and reduce till thick, then blend till smooth (check the seasoning, it may need a little sugar), then smoke for about an hour to taste. SUNFLOWER TAHINI → 250g sunflower seeds → 160ml canola oil → 100ml lemon juice → 100ml water → Flaky salt In a high-speed blender, blend the seeds to a fine powder, then using a stick blender combine with oil and garlic till smooth. Slowly add lemon juice and water and blend till its light and fluffy. Season with flaky salt. DUKKAH → 25g sunflower seeds → 25g pumpkin seeds → 25g fennel seeds → 25g cumin seeds
Cam’s Wine Match
Swift Syrah 2020, Bridge Pa Triangle, Hawkes Bay. swiftwines.co.nz If you could imagine, just for a moment, the sweet moist and gently firm texture of perfectly roasted lamb, there’s always a whisper of smoke then earthy flavours. This dish requires a bolder, slightly weightier wine to contrast the lamb’s sweet earthy flavours, but more importantly the dukkah requires a youthful wine with a core of fruit. The version of tahini also needs a wine with some oak to marry up with the nutty flavours that sunflower seeds deliver. The earthy naturally sweet flavours from carrot puree will harmonise well with the youthful sweet fruit and energy in the wine. Finally, all the protein in the lamb meat softens and even dissolves away many of the fruit and wood tannins in the Syrah.
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RECIPES AND WINE MATCHES
Reserve Beef Short Rib with Wasabi Cake and Asian Slaw Recipe by Greg Piner
SHORT RIB INGREDIENTS → 1 Silver Fern Farms Reserve Short Rib, bone on → 4L beef stock → 4 cloves garlic → 6 lime leaves → 1 brown onion, chopped → 1 knob of ginger, chopped → 1 knob of dark palm sugar → 100g coriander root, chopped → 1 red chilli, chopped
Cover with greaseproof paper and wrap in tin foil.
Mash potato until light and fluffy and season with salt and pepper.
Place in preheated oven at 120 degrees for 8 hours, or until meat is soft.
Add wasabi paste, butter and mix.
WASABI CAKE → 3 large potatoes, peeled → 2 tsp wasabi paste → 20g butter → 200g corn grits, for dusting → Salt and pepper, to season
Strain remaining stock and reduce until the liquid forms a jus consistency. Season to taste.
ASIAN SLAW → 50g pickled ginger, chopped → 100g white cabbage, finely sliced → 100g red cabbage, finely sliced → 1 red onion, finely sliced → 50g QP Japanese mayonnaise → 1 tsp sugar Remove bone from Reserve Short Rib. Seal meat on grill and season with salt and pepper. Place bones on a large tray with the Short Rib on top with all Short Rib ingredients, including beef stock.
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Remove Short Rib from tray and place on flat tray. Add a layer of greaseproof paper and place another tray on top. Add weight to top tray and press Short Rib until cool and meat sets.
To make wasabi cake, cook potatoes until soft. Drain liquid and let steam dry.
Weigh out mixture into 40g balls and mould into cylindrical shapes. Lightly dust the cylinders with corn grits and deep fry at 175 degrees until golden. To make Asian slaw, mix all slaw ingredients together and season to taste. To serve, arrange Reserve Short Rib, wasabi cake and Asian slaw on the plate. Drizzle jus over the Short Rib.
Cam’s Wine Match
Fromm Cuvee ‘H’ Pinot Noir 2019, Marlborough. frommwinery.co.nz There are two ways to go with a dish like this, the first is to select a red wine that always works with beef dishes of this genre such as a full-bodied Cabernet blend. On this occasion however it requires a wine that can respect the sweet, soft texture, protein and fatty deposits of the rib meat, but contrast the weight and heat rush of the wasabi cake. Cuvee ‘H’ does this seamlessly with its youthful core of fruit, elegant, fragrant and fresh appeal, with poise and tension from tannins and acidity. It is also has just 10 percent new oak, just enough to offer contrast and complexity.
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g n i t s Ta s Note
BY CAMERON DOUGLAS, MASTER SOMMELIER
Page 38 Sauvignon Blanc Page 41 Sparkling Page 44 Chardonnay Page 46 Aromatic Page 49 Pinot Gris Page 51 Rosé Page 54 Pinot Noir Page 57 Other Reds WINE POINTS SYSTEM
All Cameron’s wine and beverage reviews in World of Wine are based on this 100-point scale. 95 – 100 Classic: a great wine (5 Star) 90 – 94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style (4.5 – 5 Star) 85 – 89 Very Good: a wine with special qualities (3.5 – 4 Star) 80 – 84 Good: a solid, well-made wine (3 Star) 50 – 74 Not recommended
SAUVIGNON BLANC TASTING NOTES
on n g i Sauv Blanc T
here appears to be a shortage of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, such is the demand for the variety. Compounding the issue of supply is a very slow recovery caused in part by disruptions to shipping routes, extended waiting times in harbours and the continued unpredictability of Covid-19 affected nations. At home 2021 vintage wines are widely available yet the one variety that might run out first is our most popular – Sauvignon Blanc. Fortunately, there is a lot to choose from and the quality at all price points is very good. While the classic Marlborough-style remains popular with its pungent expressive fruity bouquet, high acidity and crisp refreshing finish, do explore all styles from around Aotearoa. Barrel fermented, barrel-aged, sub-regional expressions, and even low intervention winemaking expressions, all offer something to be discovered. Sauvignon Blanc from Central Otago, Nelson, Wairarapa and Hawke’s Bay remain a very strong part of the story for this variety, so I encourage all readers to head north, south and west of Marlborough as well. W
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TASTING NOTES SAUVIGNON BLANC
1
Aotea by the Seifried Family Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Nelson
1
2
A sophisticated bouquet with aromas of fresh white fleshed fruits, Meyer lemon and pear, sage and fresh green herbs, lees and minerality. A seamless transition from nose to palate with a satin texture, fine chalky mouthfeel, a core of fruit and refreshing acid line with a light saline lick on the finish. Delicious and well made with a lengthy finish. Best drinking from 2021 through 2027+. 95 Points RRP $29.00 seifried.co.nz
5
Maude Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Central Otago
Pure, ripe, fresh, youthful and varietal with lifted scents of sweet red apple and lemon, soft herbs of sage and thyme, white flowers and a stony mineral statement. Precise, pure, fruity and tangy on the palate with flavours of citrus and tree fruits, fresh herbs and a tickle of tropical. There’s a fine lees complexity and lengthy, balanced finish. Elegant, refreshing and delicious. Best drinking from purchase and through 2025. 95 Points RRP $25.00 maudewines.com
2
Catalina Sounds Sound of White ‘Barrel Fermented’ Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Marlborough
An enticing bouquet with barrel-ferment complexities of roasted peaches and apricot, softly spoken vanilla and lees moments and stony mineral core. Fantastic on the palate with a satin-cream mouthfeel, core of ripe tree and stone fruit flavours, Meyer lemon, some fresh herbs and a fine savoury complexity. Great acid line and lengthy finish. Great drinking from today and through 2025. 95 Points RRP $35.00 catalinasounds.co.nz
3
Clos Marguerite Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Marlborough
Seductive, pure, ripe fruited bouquet with flavours of just picked Meyer lemon and Granny Smith Apple, sage and tarragon, then quince and sea salt with a savoury seam throughout. Plenty of acidity to contrast the fruit, a fine satin texture on the finish and persistent, complex presentation. Delicious and ready to drink from purchase and through 2028+. 95 Points RRP $32.00 closmarguerite.co.nz
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5
6
Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
Distinctive and varietal, a core of fruit with aromas of green apple and Meyer lemon, fresh white peach and dried sage, tropical fruit highlights and a fresh mineral seam throughout the bouquet. Salivating as the wine touches the palate with a saline acidity, then flavours of fresh citrus, tree and tropical fruits, fresh herbs and stony mineral layers. A silky mouthfeel and lengthy fruit-filled finish. An excellent example, perfect as an aperitif with fresh shellfish. Best drinking from 2021 through 2025. 95 Points RRP $25.00 nautilusestate.com
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Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon 2018, North Canterbury
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7
4
Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Marlborough
An enticingly complex bouquet with scents of wild flowers and fresh lemon, a leesy textured spice, white-fleshed fruits and fresh herb suggestions. On the palate a wine that delivers texture before flavour, minerality before fruit, is harmonious, fresh, youthful and dry. Fantastic example with great drinking from today and through 2029+. 95 Points RRP $38.50 greywacke.com
Wonderfully intense bouquet with aromas of white-fleshed stone fruits and citrus, grapefruit pith and apple peel. The bouquet also has a waxy white smoke and stone mineral layer. Silky textures on the palate are contrasted by acidity and a core of fruit flavours suggested by the nose. The pith and peel alongside grapefruit and apple flavours are strong, adding length and intensity. Great finish. A fascinating wine, complex and delicious. Drink now and through 2025. 95 Points RRP $34.00 pegasusbay.com
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Bladen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
8
Pungent, fruity, pure and classic modern expression of Sauvignon Blanc. Aromas and flavours of mango and passionfruit, red apple and white peach, fresh herbs and layers of stony, wet pebble minerality. The salivating and slight salt-lick of acidity carries the core fruit flavours as well as adding crunch and freshness. Delicious from start to finish with best drinking from 2021 through 2025. 94 Points RRP $25.00 bladen.co.nz
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SAUVIGNON BLANC TASTING NOTES
9
9
Catalina Sounds Sound of White Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Marlborough
10
Complex and varietal, fruit centric and lightly savoury. Aromas and flavours of apples and grapefruit, fresh sage and basil, white pineapple and peach. There’s a core of minerality with a silky high energy texture leading to flavours of citrus. Very good example offering excellent drinking today and through 2024. 94 Points RRP $30.00 catalinasounds.co.nz
13
Lawson’s Dry Hills Blind River Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
10
Hunter’s Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
Fresh, fruity, herbaceous, pungent, tropical and an abundance of energy and power. Classic with purity and charm. Fantastic on the palate with acidity that’s salty and salivates. A core of fruit with citrus, white stone-fruits and tropical fruit flavours and acidity that pushes the texture and core flavours through the palate seamlessly. Well made and ready to drink from day of purchase and through 2025. 94 Points RRP $19.90 hunters.co.nz
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14
Old Coach Road Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Nelson
Pungent, bright, fresh, fruity, herbaceous and varietal. Flavours of white fleshed fruits and lemon flesh, basil and sage, plenty of cold stone minerality and zingy refreshing mouthfeel and lengthy finish. Well made with best drinking from day of purchase through 2024+. 93 Points RRP $15.00 seifried.co.nz
Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
Bright, fruity, intense and varietal aromas of fresh white peach and citrus, tropical fruits and fresh herbs. A silky texture touches the palate first highlighting a core of fruit, then contrasting acidity highlights the fresh herb and tropical fruits. A saline taste on the finish showcases how delicious this wine is with a lovely texture and core of fruit flavours. Best drinking from 2021 through 2025. 94 Points RRP $20.00 lawsonsdryhills.co.nz
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13
15
FHE Advenus Sauvignon Blanc Viognier 2013, Waiheke Island
14
15
Ara Single Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
Totally classic bouquet with pungent aromas of ripe sweet tree and tropical fruits, grapefruit and apple, passionfruit and peach, fresh green herbs and stone. Crisp, herbaceous, fruity and vibrant on the palate. Flavours mirror the bouquet accentuated by a saline acid line, satin texture and lengthy finish. Balanced and well made with best drinking from today and through 2024+. 93 Points RRP $18.99 arawines.co.nz
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Complex and interesting, integrated and developing bouquet with aromas of preserved lemon and peach, baked apple and yellow flowers, some mineral and lees complexities with a floral moment. Very nice on the palate with a coarse silk texture preceding flavours of lemongrass and hay, preserved lemon and peach. Good structure with a lively acid line and a leesy floral savoury finish. Great drinking today and through end of 2022. 92 Points RRP $48.00 frenchmanshillestate.co.nz
16
Giesen Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Marlborough
16
40
Bright, fresh, fruity, herbaceous and pungent, with aromas and flavours on the palate of basil and tropical fruits, pineapple and mango, red apple and grapefruit. Classic gooseberry flavours along with a fresh crunchy and salivating acidity ticks all the boxes of a balanced, well made wine ready for immediate imbibing from day of purchase and through summer 2022. 93 Points RRP $25.00 lawsonsdryhills.co.nz
Classic bouquet of tropical fruits and grapefruit flesh, basil and passionfruit, pineapple and red apple. Crisp, mouthwatering and just dry on the palate with flavours that mirror the bouquet. An early drinking expression centering on the flavours of citrus and apple with tropical fruit and herbaceous almost grassy character. Well made, ready to drink from today and through end of 2023. 89 Points RRP $15.99 giesen.co.nz
TASTING NOTES SPARKLING
g n i l k r a p S Y
ou should always have a bottle of sparkling wine in your fridge for emergencies – that’s a rule in our house. In fact we have two bottles – one from an Aotearoa producer and one from France, typically Champagne. The reason being, you never know when that emergency will happen. Whether it’s a family announcement or just good news. Anytime during Christmas day is a must, as well as a second past midnight New-Year’s-day are two traditional occasions when a glass of happiness is the most appropriate beverage to pour. New Zealand bubbles, especially Méthode Traditionnelle, should be your first choice because you’re not only supporting local, the range of producers and styles have many excellent choices at great price-points. When tasting a new brand for the first time always try to notice any yeasty aromatics balanced against the flavours of citrus and white fleshed fruits; the mouthfeel and texture from the mousse are important as they carry flavour throughout the palate and reveal the complexity. There are fine examples of New Zealand sparkling and Méthode Traditionnelle from all the major wine growing regions of New Zealand, so for a guide to help you get started look to the selection in this issue or The Shout magazine and online check out methodemarlborough.org, camdouglasms.com or your favourite producer. W
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SPARKLING TASTING NOTES
1
No.1 Family Estate Cuvée Adele Méthode Traditionelle 2016, Marlborough
2
The bouquet is seductive and complex, rich in scents of autolysis and roasted stone fruits, butter brioche and nut, preserved lemon and mineral-laden. Fantastic on the palate with full-bodied, soft unfurling mousse then releases to reveal flavours of citrus and stone fruits, some baked apple, lemon peel and baked goods. Harmonious, complex, seductive and delicious. The perfect gift. 97 Points RRP $270.00 no1familyestate.co.nz
2
No.1 Family Estate No.1 Reserve Méthode Traditionelle NV, Marlborough
3 1
A fantastic bouquet of fresh citrus and white flowers, complex lees autolysis with brioche and burnt butter adding a nutty quality before aromas of peach and baked apple layer in. A powerful yet refined mousse texture envelopes the palate delivering flavours of Meyer lemon and peach, nut and baked goods. Totally delicious, lengthy and sophisticated. An exemplar that showcases the best of this producer and New Zealand. 97 Points RRP $96.00 no1familyestate.co.nz
3
Amisfield Méthode Traditionelle Brut 2018, Central Otago
Fantastic bouquet, complex, detailed, youthful and precise. Aromas of grapefruit, white strawberry and apple. There’s a powerful autolysis with fresh brioche and gun-flint, butter croissant then white peach. Equally complex on the palate with a mealy, textured mouthfeel. Flavours of citrus and white fleshed stone fruits, salivating saline acid line and layers of autolysis effect. A delicious wine still developing complexities as bottle development settles in. Best drinking from 2022 through 2030+. 96 Points RRP $50.00 amisfield.co.nz
4
No.1 Family Estate Cuvée No.1 Méthode Traditionelle NV, Marlborough
Wonderfully complex and enticing bouquet with aromas of ripe grapefruit and white peach, some lemon then brioche. Crisp, salivating and deliciously fresh with a core of ripe citrus and white-fleshed fruits. Floral and delicate with an intense autolysis. The mousse is persistent, silky and the finish lengthy and complex. As good as any wine you might source from Champagne. Best drinking from day of purchase and through 2027+. 95 Points RRP $36.00 no1familyestate.co.nz
5
No.1 Family Estate No.1 Assemblé Méthode Traditionelle NV, Marlborough
A captivating, intense and sophisticated bouquet of baked goods and peaches, grapefruit and strawberry. A fine lees complexity and autolysis with plenty of intensity and drive. Crisp, refreshingly dry, balanced and lengthy with flavours that mirror the nose. A fine mousse that fills the palate with texture and tension leading to a delicious finish. Best drinking upon purchase and through 2025. 94 Points RRP $32.00 no1familyestate.co.nz
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TASTING NOTES SPARKLING
6
No.1 Family Estate No.1 Rosé Méthode Traditionelle NV, Marlborough
Floral and gently fruity, quite seductive and intriguing. Aromas of light red berry, cranberry, cherry and red melon. A light toasty brioche-like autolysis layer adds complexity and a light rose scent charm. Crisp, fresh, fruity, refreshing and dry. Very pretty, lightweight and delicious. Fruit flavours mirror the nose while the powerful mousse carries the lees, spice and floral messages. Lengthy, fruity and delightful. Best drinking from today and through 2028+. 94 Points RRP $47.00 no1familyestate.co.nz
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9
H.Lanvin & Fils NV, Champagne
7
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV, Champagne
This is a complex wine with aromas of mineral and exotic flowers, then fruits of the orchard with lemon and white stone fruits and finally a core of oatmeal and whole wheat brioche autolysis. As the wine touches the palate the crisp freshness from acidity accentuates lemon, apple and stone fruit flavours. The mousse is very fine and silky in texture. Dry, balanced, lengthy and well made. A lovely example and quite a sophisticated wine. Best drinking from day of purchase and through 2025. 94 Points RRP $79.99 pernod-ricard-winemakers.com
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10
10
Campo Viejo Cava Brut-Reserva Método Tradicional NV, Spain
9
8
Palliser Estate ‘The Griffin’ Méthode Traditionnelle 2018, Martinborough
Complex, toasty and nutty bouquet with aromas of baked white fleshed fruits, some citrus and cashew nut. There’s a mix of mineral and fruit spice with a complex leesy autolysis. Crisp, complex and dry. A very sophisticated Méthode best enjoyed on its own as an aperitif. Lengthy finish, well made and ready. Ideal drinking from day of purchase and through 2025. 93 Points RRP $55.00 palliser.co.nz
Very enticing aromas of fresh citrus and peach. No mistaking the brioche and baked goods layers, a touch of nut and an abundance of lees autolysis. A rush of mousse as the wine touches the palate adding a crisp and vibrant texture. Flavours of stone fruit and citrus and a fine lees complexity. Balanced and well made in a just dry, brut style. Best drinking from day of purchase and through 2025. 93 Points RRP $49.99 champagne-lombard.com
11
Very ripe and fruity bouquet with aromas of sweet peach and apple, dried citrus peel and a fresh bread autolysis. Inviting and familiar with a core of fruit. On the palate, the fruit story continues with flavours that mirror the bouquet, a crisp and refreshing acid line, quite rounded in texture with a soft pliable mousse texture. Very fruity with a great texture and finish. Best drinking from 2021 through 2024. 91 Points RRP $24.99 campoviejo.com
11
Gancia Prosecco Rosé 2019, Italy
Red fruit aromas and flavours with a sweet plum and cherry beginning which moves into flavours of the same on the palate plus a strawberry ingress. Off dry with a mild sweetness, crisp and crunchy acid line and balanced even finish. Great drinking from today and through 2022. 88 Points RRP $23.99 gancia.it
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CHARDONNAY TASTING NOTES
y a onn d r a h C I
f you still haven’t seen the docu-movie A Seat at the Table now is the perfect time. There’s an interview with wine writer Jancis Robinson MW, where she suggests that New Zealand Chardonnay is “world-class” and the wine sector here should focus more attention on the variety. In other words, grow more. New Zealand’s climate and myriad soil types are ideally suited to growing Chardonnay and where it is planted the results attest to Jancis Robinson’s ideas. Not only do the different soils types influence aroma and flavour, so too do different farming practices, vine-age and canopy management, along with harvest decisions. Indeed, great wine has a story to tell about place of origin, flavour, texture, wine making and the use of oak. Oak flavours in Chardonnay are expected, even desired by many drinkers so it’s important for producers to get the balance right and appeal to their customer base. I understand that there are still some ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) drinkers out there, but this variety has myriad expressions to discover so now is perhaps a good time to take another look. W
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TASTING NOTES CHARDONNAY
1
Palliser Estate Single Vineyard ‘Om Santi’ Chardonnay 2020, Martinborough
1
5
Seifried Winemakers Collection Barrique Fermented Chardonnay 2019, Nelson
2
Very complex, mineral and fruit-centric bouquet, with layers of wood spice, wild flowers with a sense of place and time. Full-bodied, complex and delicious on the palate. Flavours of tree and stone fruits, layers of wood spice, cashew nut and toasty barrel, roasted stone fruit and sweet citrus. The core structure comes from flavours of stones and soil layers surrounded by fine tannins and a persistent acid line. Fantastic example with best drinking from day of purchase and through 2028+. 96 Points RRP $60.00 palliser.co.nz
2
An intriguing complex bouquet with aromas of ripe roasted stone fruits, vanilla and roasted Brazil nut butter, oak, creamy lactic moments and a fresh youthful varietal appeal. Equally intriguing on the palate with a core of fruit and wood flavours to reflect the bouquet. There’s a harmonious link between fruit and wood, spices, fine wood tannins and toasty barrel flavours. Still developing with best drinking from 2022 through 2028. 94 Points RRP $29.00 seifried.co.nz
Lawson’s Dry Hills Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Marlborough
Complex, intense and layered bouquet with aromas of ripe tree and stone fruits, grapefruit and wood spices, fresh peach and mandarin peel, apple and toasty wood with a blond tobacco and raw sugar memory. Excellent weight and richness on the palate with a full bodied mouthfeel and textures from fine wood tannins and acidity. Fruit flavours mirror the bouquet led by citrus then stone fruits. There’s a cashew and Brazil nut butter flavour adding further complexity. An excellent example with great drinking from 2022 through 2029. 95 Points RRP $28.00 lawsonsdryhills.co.nz
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5
3
Astrolabe Chardonnay 2018, Martinborough
Aromas of fresh and baked yellow stone fruits, vanilla and smoky barrel spices, raw brown sugar and moments of popcorn and butterscotch. Complex, new and vibrant bouquet. Delicious on the palate with many familiar flavours and textures from stone fruits to baking spices, apple and grapefruit to wood smoke and stony mineral qualities. Weighty, textured and dry with a lengthy finish. Well made, youthful, but ready to imbibe from today and through 2028. 94 Points RRP $32.00 astrolabewines.co.nz
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7
Church Road Gwen Chardonnay 2020, Hawke’s Bay
7
Brancott Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2020, Marlborough
8
Tipping Point Chardonnay 2020, Hawke’s Bay
Aromas and flavours of white peach and fresh red apple, a soft vanilla and whipped cream scent There’s a finesse and charm with a light floral lift, then a fine nut and toasted wood layering through the mid to back palate. Medium plus in weight with a firm youthful side accentuated by acidity and newer wood tensions. Fine tannins add mouthfeel and length. Balanced and well made, ready to drink from 2022 through 2025. 92 Points RRP $24.99 pernod-ricard-winemakers.com
Bright, fresh and youthful bouquet with aromas of fresh apple and grapefruit, mild tones of oak and baking spices, a touch of leesy baked goods moments, then a touch of white peach. Crisp, youthful, fruity and dry on the palate with flavours that mirror the bouquet, particularly citrus and tree fruits then mild flavours of barrel. Decent acid line, balanced and well made. Drinking well from today and through 2024. 91 Points RRP $19.99 brancottestate.com/en-nz
There’s no mistaking the signature of white peach and grapefruit, oak and vanilla, cream corn and a touch of butterscotch in the bouquet. Vibrant, youthful and tasty on the palate with flavours of vanilla cream custard and peach, apple and wood spices. Youthful textures from acidity and fine easy tannins. Balanced, well made and ready for drinking from 2021 through 2024. 91 Points RRP $24.99 constellationnz.com
4
Nga Waka Chardonnay 2020, Martinborough
Attractive bouquet of flowers and mineral, some oyster shell and ripe white fleshed stone fruits. There’s a layer of oak with a raw cashew nut butter scent and finesse and charm. Youthful, fresh and delicious on the palate, dry with flavours of citrus and tree fruits, a core of minerality, a touch of gun-flint and mix of new and used barrel. Great acid line, a sense of place and time leading to long salivating finish. Best drinking from late 2022 through 2028+. 94 Points RRP $28.00 ngawaka.co.nz
6
8
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AROMATICS TASTING NOTES
s c i t a Arom I
f a wine could be the perfect aperitif, a discussion enhancer and doorway to palate adventure, then Riesling would be that wine. From bone dry, to off-dry, to exceedingly sweet styles, it’s a good idea to read a wine label carefully to be sure you know what you’re pouring. Riesling is also classified as an aromatic variety with flavours including flowers or blossoms, sometimes kerosene with aged examples, but almost always flavours of green apple, mandarin and lemon. Riesling can age for decades with its low to moderate alcohol and high acidity fastening together the fruit and structural elements. Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Albarińo, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Blanc and Gruner Veltliner are all examples of aromatic or semi-aromatic grape varieties. These varieties contain a set of naturally-occurring compounds called ‘terpenes’ which makes them particularly distinctive. They should be on your “adventurous wines” list if you like to explore the world of wine. They are sometimes difficult to pair with food if you’re not sure how the combinations work. Mãori, Tongan and Samoan dishes can be excellent with aromatic wines. Sometimes just called Gewürz’, Gewürztraminer is the most intense and exotic of the aromatic varieties. It is delicious on its own and works remarkably well with different cheeses and creamy textured dishes. W
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TASTING NOTES AROMATICS
1
1
Greywacke Riesling 2020, Marlborough
Immediately floral and fruity, with scents of white blossoms and lemongrass, fresh Granny Smith apple, honeysuckle and a touch of white spice. While there’s a touch of sweetness as the wine touches the palate, the acid line and core of fruit flourish, carrying flavour and texture. Lengthy, complex and delicious. Great drinking from purchase day and through 2030+. 96 Points RRP $31.00 greywacke.com
2 3
2
Pegasus Bay Riesling 2019, North Canterbury
Peaches and limes, green apples and white blossoms, honey suckle and green mandarin. Vibrant, fresh, youthful and pure. As the wine touches the palate, the acidity begins to dance and tingle, while the core of fruit flavours mirror the nose. No mistaking the acidity with a whisper of contrasting residual sweetness, then a return to flavours of mandarin and lime flower, apple and peach. Delicious, fleshy and long. Best drinking from purchase and through 2030+. 95 Points RRP $30.00 pegasusbay.com
3
Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Riesling 2019, North Canterbury
Closed on the nose for the first minute or two, then the bouquet begins to reveal aromas of apricots and apples, preserved lemon and honey, a moment or two of orange marmalade, then a quiet seam of minerality. The core of fruit suggests some residual sweetness as the wine touches the palate, but immediately turns dry with focused and intense acidity. Flavours of lemon and orange zest, and apple, citrus peel and marmalade return. There’s a spice to the fruit and an intense core revealing more mineral then honeysuckle, flowers and orchard fruits. Delicious, dry, long. Another captivating Bel Canto from the PB team. Drink now and through 2029+. 94 Points RRP $38.00 pegasusbay.com
4 5
4
Seifried Estate Riesling 2020, Nelson
5
Astrolabe Kekerengu Coast Albarino 2019, Marlborough
Aromas of orange and yellow citrus, fresh red apple, some quince, orange blossoms and mineral. Off-dry on the palate with a core of fruit flavours that mirror the bouquet. Contrasting acidity and alcohol provide a lovely mealy textured mouthfeel adding to a lengthy finish. Well-made and ready to drink from 2021 through 2026+. 94 Points RRP $20.00 seifried.co.nz
A striking bouquet with aromas of a young and vibrant wine with fresh citrus and peach. There’s a fine savoury seam, then scents of apple and lemon peel. Salivating, crisp and dry on the palate with flavours that transition quickly from white peach to citrus pith, apple and white flowers to lemon and a fine savoury lees texture. An aperitif style ready for imbibing from purchase and through 2025. 93 Points RRP $30.00 astrolabewines.co.nz
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AROMATICS TASTING NOTES
6
Poderi Crisci Arneis 2020, Waiheke
7
A delicate bouquet, floral, fruity, enticing and fresh with aromas of citrus and fresh apple, some savoury mineral moments with distinctive sea air scent. Flavours of fresh citrus and white fleshed tree fruits, a savoury light saline note, then apple and pith on the finish. Interesting and refreshing, a lovely example to showoff to friends and excellent as a food wine. Best drinking from 2022 through 2026+. 94 Points RRP $38.00 podericrisci.co.nz
8 6
7
Seifried Estate Gewürztraminer 2021, Nelson
8
Redmetal Vineyards Block Five Albarino 2021, Hawke’s Bay
Enticing bouquet, varietal, fruity, spicy, very floral, fresh and exotic. Flavours include pears and poached apple, honeysuckle and white peach. Off-dry with contrasting acidity, layers of spice are soaked up by fleshy fruit flavours. Satin texture and lengthy finish. Delicious example and ready to imbibe upon purchase and through 2024+. 94 Points RRP $20.00 seifried.co.nz
Very enticing bouquet with core scents of peaches and apple, white flowers and a lees autolysis effect, gently savoury and fine with a mineral seam. Crisp, refreshing and dry on the palate, classic transition from silky peach to youthful citrus through the palate. There’s a mineral and pith-like complexity and a fresh salivating appeal. Well made and ready to drink from 2021 through 2025. 93 Points RRP $32.95 redmetalvineyards.co.nz
9
Giesen Estate Riesling 2021, Marlborough
10 9
A pure and precise bouquet of white blossoms and lemon flesh, crisp green apples and a touch of white peach. Enticing, fresh and ready. An off-dry expression with noticeable sweetness, with contrasting acidity. Flavours of tree fruits and citrus, with a whisper of lime, some minerality, finishing with a dusting of castor sugar. Ready for drinking from today and through 2025. 91 Points RRP $15.99 giesen.co.nz
10
Pegasus Bay Vergence White MK1, North Canterbury
A complex bouquet bursting with aromas of waxy fruits, citrus and flowers, white fleshed stone fruits and spicy tropical fruit. There’s a light toasty, creamy, rounded texture from lees and oak. On the palate, tense, creamy through satin textures, plenty of acidity then flavours of citrus pith and peach, lemon and fresh lychee, apple and blossoms. Many flavours maketh this wine with a moreish core of fruit, wood spice and waxy citrus fruit finish. Drink best from today and through 2023. 91 Points RRP $27.00 pegasusbay.com
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TASTING NOTES PINOT GRIS
PINOT
s i r G P
lantings of Pinot Gris in Aotearoa have increased by 66 percent in the last decade. It is the third most widely planted variety just ahead of Chardonnay and almost equal to Pinot Noir. There’s no question Pinot Gris is popular and accounts for one of the most in-demand wines at cafés and restaurants. Drier styles of Gris are very good as appetite enhancers, while those with some residual sugar work well with creamier textured menu items. Gris is actually one of the more difficult wines to make - because it requires the right balance between fruit sweetness and acid, skin contact for texture and if oak is used it has to be judicious, and not too new. Next time you’re scanning the shelves at your local, take a moment to read the back label as it should guide you on the dryness level and flavour profile. The abv (alcohol by volume) is generally around 13 percent for most Gris, but you may come across some that are 14 - 14.5 percent. Not an issue, but there could be some residual sweetness making these slightly weightier styles easy to pair with heavier dishes like salmon or pasta. Taste-wise, look for white fleshed tree and stone fruits, a touch of white spice and medium-plus acid level. The use of oak is not particularly common in Gris, but when it is used, it should be there for complexity not flavour. All wine regions in Aotearoa grow Gris so don’t be shy about exploring all that this variety has to offer. W
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PINOT GRIS TASTING NOTES
1
Q WINE Pinot Gris 2021, Waitaki Valley
An excellent bouquet of ripe whitefleshed fruits showcasing green pear and baked apple, poached pear and lees with a moment of ginger spice. Youthful, fresh, spicy and fruity on the palate, plenty of texture with very fine fruit tannins and lees spices. Great drinking from 2022 through 2026+. 94 Points RRP $32.00 qwine.co.nz
2
1
3
2
Poderi Crisci Pinot Grigio 2019, Waiheke
Fruity, mineral, varietal, fresh, floral and youthful bouquet. This classically styled wine is youthful on the palate with a crisp, mouthwatering texture leading to flavours of crunchy green pear and yellow apple, some lemongrass and white peach. A fine lees layer adds complexity and depth. An excellent aperitif and starter wine. Best drinking from today and through 2025. 93 Points RRP $35.00 podericrisci.co.nz
3
Glover Family Vineyards Zephyr Pinot Gris 2021, Marlborough
5
Ara Single Estate Pinot Gris 2021, Marlborough
6
Brancott Estate Reserve Pinot Gris 2021, Marlborough
Fragrant and fruity, varietal and gently spicy, with aromas of brown pears and apple, some elderflower and white pepper suggestions, alongside scents of soil and spring. A soft satin creamtexture allows focus on the core of fruit before contrasting acidity kicks in refreshing the palate for the next sip. Fruity, fresh and delicious with decent length and persistent flavours. Best drinking from 2021 through 2024. 93 Points RRP $24.99 zephyrwine.com
Domain Road Pinot Gris 2021, Bannockburn Central Otago
Aromas of ripe tree fruits and mineral clay, some spice and floral complexity. Off-dry on the palate with a perfect measure of residual sweetness, balanced and contrasting acid line, a silky texture and flavours of grilled brown pear and apple, some citrus layers and fine white spice accents. Delicious, balanced, well made and ready to drink from 2021 through 2024+. 93 Points RRP $28.00 domainroad.co.nz
4
4 6
5
Robust, fruity and varietal bouquet with aromas of sweet brown pear and apple, some white spice and white nectarine scents. Vibrant and fruity on the palate with flavours of whitefleshed tree fruit and citrus, white pepper and a fine lees complexity. Balanced, well made and crisp. Best drinking from day of purchase and through 2023. 92 Points RRP $18.99 arawines.co.nz
Aromas of ripe white-fleshed fruits including brown pear and golden apple, honeysuckle flowers and a sugar dusted Asian pear scent. Varietal, floral, fresh and appealing. Off-dry on the palate with a silky texture, a core of fruit flavours that reflect the bouquet, contrasting acidity highlighting flavours of tree fruits and a touch of sweet citrus. Best drinking from 2021 through 2023. 90 Points RRP $19.99 brancottestate.com/en-nz
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TASTING NOTES ROSÉ
é s o R A
ll colours for Rosé are valid, from the pale pink to raspberry hued, through to the onion-skin and salmon. A wander through any liquor store will demonstrate just how many local as well as international options there are. Each wine will have a taste profile similar to the imported styles, with apricot or peach, a whisper of saffron, grapefruit, with a crisp, clean refreshing finish or, the light cherry to red melon, strawberry and raspberry flavours also with a salivating mouthfeel. The more opulent, vibrantly textured wines with a range of expressions are best sourced from local producers. My advice is to buy a different one each week and experiment. W
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ROSÉ TASTING NOTES
1
4
Amisfield Pinot Noir Rosé 2021, Central Otago
Mount Michael Pinot Noir Rosé 2021, Central Otago
Wondefully floral and fruity, delicate yet precise. Aromas and flavours of fresh strawberry and moist red cherry flesh, spring blossoms and a core of stony soil minerals. Lush texture mid palate with salivating acid line, super fine chalkdust tannins and balanced, luscious finish. Great drinking from purchase and through end of summer 2023. 93 Points RRP $35.00 amisfield.co.nz
2
1
Very enticing bouquet of sweet red flowers, cherry and peach, red apple and sweet Otago air. On the palate, crisp, salivating, refreshing and dry. A core of fruit and flowers reflect the bouquet with a minerality and super fine fruit tannin mouthfeel. Delicious, fresh, balanced and well made. Drink from day of purchase and through 2024. 93 Points RRP $28.50 mountmichaelwines.com
2
5
Domain Road Pinot Noir Rosé 2021, Bannockburn Central Otago
Fleshy, plush and ripe light red berry aromas with cherry flesh and raspberry scents with a touch of mineral and fruit spice. Very silky, soft and fresh, with flavours that reflect the bouquet. Refreshing acid line adds crunch and texture with a lengthy elegant finish. Best drinking from 2021 through end of summer 2023. 93 Points RRP $28.00 domainroad.co.nz
Astrolabe Comleybank Waihopai Rosé 2021, Marlborough
3
5
3
Matahiwi Estate Pinot Rosé 2021, Wairarapa
Super bright and shiny with pink and raspberry hues, leading to aromas of fresh red cherry and sweet cranberry, lots of raspberry and fresh red melon. Quite floral, vibrant and loaded with energy. On the palate, fresh, crunchy, fruity and dry with a core of fruit flavours that mirror the bouquet. Acidity and some super fine fruit tannins layer in a fine chalky mouthfeel contrasted by fruit. Balanced and well made, ready to drink from day of purchase and through 2023. 93 Points RRP $28.00 matahiwi.co.nz
2021’s fine vintage is reflected in the bouquet of this Rosé with aromas of ripe and concentrated red berries, tropical fruit punch, peaches and grapefruit. It is equally floral with a fine mineral and light lees complexity. On the palate, youthful, fresh, crisp, refreshing and dry. The core flavours reflect the nose with a touch more citrus emphasised with fine fruit tannins, plenty of acidity and persistent finish. Balanced, well made and ready with great drinking from purchase and through 2023. 93 Points RRP $32.00 astrolabewines.co.nz
6
Fleurty Rosé 2021, Hawke’s Bay
Aromas of fresh red cherry and apple, a touch of citrus and mineral, with roses and a plum compote note. Crisp, refreshing, silky and dry with flavours that mirror the nose. Crisp acidity, a touch of saline mouthfeel. Balanced, well made and ready with great drinking from 2021 through end of summer 2023. 93 Points RRP $24.90 askernewines.co.nz
4
7
M.Chapoutier Pays d’Oc Rosé 2020, Languedoc
6
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7
Lifted, lively, refreshing, fruity and enticing bouquet. Roses and peach, red apple, cherry and red currant. Luscious, fresh, vibrant, fruity and dry. The youthful tension from acidity and fine fruit tannins add texture and combined with a core of light red berry fruit favours, present a fine mouthfeel and lengthy balanced finish. Best drinking from today and through 2023. 93 Points RRP $17.99 chapoutier.com
TASTING NOTES ROSÉ
8
8
Palliser Estate Rosé 2021, Martinborough
Enticing, bright, fresh and fruity bouquet. Aromas of raspberry and cherry, some red melon and strawberry. Delicious on the palate with a core of light red fruit flavours that mirror the nose, spritzy dancing acidity and a long refreshing finish. Just lovely, balanced and well made. Drink now and through end of summer 2023. 93 Points RRP $30.00 palliser.co.nz
9
9
AIX Rosé 2020, Provence
Classic hues of pale onion skin and rose pink. Aromas also classic with scents of peaches and fresh red apple, roses and a distinctive powdered granite soil complexity. Refreshingly crisp and fruity on the palate with flavours of peach, lemon and apple. A very fine fruit tannin layer and reminder of granite soil flavour add depth, while the rose and lifted freshness add charm. A lovely example with so many applications from aperitif to salads to oysters or just on its own. Best drinking upon purchase and through summer 2022. 92 Points RRP $29.99 aixrose.com/en
10
Ara Single Estate Rosé 2021, Marlborough
Aromas and flavours of fresh red cherry and melon, tropical fruit punch and chilled fruit tea. Equally fresh and vibrant on the palate with light red berry fruit flavours and some tropical fruit tea flavours. Crisp and refreshing with salivating acidity and mealy mouthfeel. Best drinking from day of purchase and through end of summer 2023. 92 Points RRP $18.99 arawines.co.nz
12
Stoneleigh Organic Rosé 2021, Marlborough
10
11
Aromas and flavours of fresh red cherry and cranberry, there’s a tart raspberry and peach note before the acidity begins to contrast, adding in texture at the same time. Floral, fresh and fruity at the core with a balanced even finish. Lovely drinking through summer 2022 and to the end of the year. 92 Points RRP $21.99 stoneleigh.com
13
Stoneleigh Wild Valley Rosé 2020, Marlborough
Aromas and flavours of red apple and fresh peach, wild rose and a touch of saffron and minerality. Crisp, refreshing, fruity and delicious at the core, with fruit flavours that mirror the nose. Refreshing, balanced and well made with best drinking from day of purchase and though 2023. 92 Points RRP $17.99 stoneleigh.com
12
13
14
14
Tipping Point Rosé 2021, Hawke’s Bay
Very enticing aromas of strawberries and red cherries, tropical fruits and a touch of grapefruit. Crisp, fresh, fruity and spritzy on the palate, with a core of fruit flavours that mirror the nose, plenty of acidity and a balanced, even finish. Drinking well now and through end of summer 2023. 92 Points RRP $24.99 constellationnz.com
11
Listel Grain de Gris Rosé 2020, France
Aromas of peach and apricot, a touch of saffron, then flowers and red currant. Dry on the palate with a spicy core of fruit, flavours that mirror the nose and a refreshing acid line. Crisp, youthful, balanced , well made and ready for an audience through summers 2022 and 2023. 92 Points RRP $15.99 listel.fr
15
Astrolabe Rosé 2021, Marlborough
15
An enticingly fresh and ripe bouquet of strawberry and red cherry, red apple and roses. Fragrant, youthful and lifted with a cold peach tea scent. On the palate, fruity, refreshingly crisp and just dry. Flavours of peach and rose tea, tropical fruits and light red berries. Balanced, well made and ready. Well suited to by the glass drinking or with first courses off an ala carte menu, even cheese. Best drinking upon purchase and through 2023. 91 Points RRP $28.00 astrolabewines.co.nz
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PINOT NOIR TASTING NOTES
t o n i P Noir
P
inot Noir is one of the great grapes and wines of Aotearoa New Zealand with power and precision, finesse and elegance underpinning the best examples. I remember being in Burgundy around harvest a few years ago and observing the attention to detail in the vineyard, then winery, which was all about capturing the sense of place a wine can reveal. Understanding how to do that is why the skill of a winemaker alongside vineyard teams is so important. The same can be said for the respect and love for Pinot from New Zealand so many of us have. The idea of power, the force and drive of the bouquet, and precision, the shape, form and polish, even ripeness of the tannins - all come from the story drawn from the fruit. Colour and tannin, flavour and texture, finesse and elegance come from an understanding of how and when a wine will find its sweet spot on the palate through gentle winemaking and bottle-age. Pinot Noir is the most sold red wine by the glass in restaurants, works extremely well with different cuisines and is a variety that continues to add to our most pleasurable wine experiences. W
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TASTING NOTES PINOT NOIR
1
Greywacke Pinot Noir 2019, Marlborough
The varietal signature of ripe dark cherry, plum, wild raspberry and barrel spices quickly give way to aromas of complexity and intrigue, minerality and flowers. Fantastic texture, core of fruit and flavour on the palate, Dry, with firm chalky tannins, plenty of acidity, but overall an energy and vibrato that teases mouthfeel, laced with fruit and spice. Great drinking from late 2021 through 2030+. 96 Points RRP $49.00 greywacke.com
1
3
2
4
Church Road Grand Reserve Pinot Noir 2019, Central Otago
Totally inviting bouquet with aromas of wild raspberry and oak seasoning, dark cherry and dusty, stony soils. Toasty barrel flavours strike the palate first then fruit flavours of dark cherry and raspberry mirror the bouquet. There’s a lovely concentration and drive with tense and youthful textures. Tannins and acidity each play an equally important role adding a bold textural statement. There’s a harmony, along with a youthful core of fruit and energy. This wine simply needs some time to settle-in. Best drinking from 2022 through 2028+. 94 Points RRP $44.99 pernod-ricard-winemakers.com
2
Astrolabe Pinot Noir 2017, Marlborough
Dark cherry, savoury, crumbled stone and dark spices of toasty French oak, complex and intriguing bouquet. Vibrant, fruity, dry, savoury and complex on the palate with flavours of dark berries and plums, firm tannins and vibrant acid line. Delicious, mouthwatering, savoury and varietal. A wine for the cellar, but also ready for drinking from 2022 through 2028+. 95 Points RRP $35.00 astrolabewines.co.nz
3
Clos Marguerite Pinot Noir 2017, Marlborough
Fresh, youthful, vibrant and complete with a core of dark cherry and baking spices, fresh and just dried roses. Baking spices of clove and vanilla, a touch of bacon, lots of lees flavours and textures. Complex and fine, medium plus acidity. Persistent, lengthy, balanced and well made. Ready to drink from purchase and through 2029+. 95 Points RRP $56.00 closmarguerite.co.nz
5
Hunter’s Offshoot Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough
4 6
5
Aromas of wild red flowers, forest fruits and berries then classic scent of cherry and dark red apple skin with a suggestion of peach. There’s a fine savoury mineral suggestion that repeats on the palate. Youthful, firm and dry with flavours that mirror the bouquet. Ripe, fine tannins and plenty of acidity. Lovely long finish, a little bit wild and a whole lot of charm. Best drinking from today and through 2027+. 94 Points RRP $34.90 hunters.co.nz
6
Nga Waka Lease Block Pinot Noir 2020, Martinborough
Aromas of fresh and ripe berry fruits, sweet toasty barrel spices, strawberry and a core of silty mineral Martinborough terrace scents. Youthful and complex, enticing and fresh. Youthful textures on the palate with chalky tannins and plenty of acidity. There’s a core of red berry fruit flavours, spice and judicious use of oak. A lovely example with best drinking from 2022 through 2028+. 94 Points RRP $45.00 ngawaka.co.nz
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PINOT NOIR TASTING NOTES
7
Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2019 North, Canterbury
Ripe, concentrated, varietal and complex bouquet, with aromas of boysenberry, plum and dark cherry. Aromas of new and seasoned barrel with toasty, nut and dark spices combination layering in complexity, shape and form. Youthful, vibrant and promising. On the palate, delicious, with a mirror of the bouquet showcasing fruit then mineral stony layers, firm textures from tannins, then acidity. Wood spices with fine through firm tannins building power and length. A wine for the cellar till late 2023 then drink though 2030. 94 Points RRP $54.00 pegasusbay.com
7
8
10
Giesen Uncharted Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough
A ripe, varietal and fresh red fruited bouquet with aromas of raspberry and red cherry, some strawberry and stony mineral moments. Aromas of wood spices and dry stone minerality layer in a toasty, earthy quality. Juicy, fleshy and fruity on the palate with a layer of fine tannins and acidity engage salivation and highlight a light salty note and raspberry twist on a dry finish. A lovely example, perfect for food or on its own, with best drinking from late 2021 through 2028. 93 Points RRP $29.99 giesen.co.nz
8
Nanny Goat Vineyard Super Nanny Pinot Noir 2020, Central Otago
Focused, concentrated, varietal and fruity with aromas and flavours, dried raspberry and dark cherry, toasty barrel spices, a touch of bacon and smoke. Ripe, firm, youthful tannins and acid line to match. Chalk and velvet mouthfeel, youthful, vibrant and lengthy. Best drinking from mid to late 2022 through 2028+. 94 Points RRP $65.00 nannygoatvineyard.co.nz
9
10
9
Giesen Organic Pinot Noir 2019, Marlborough
Fragrant, fruity, very floral, ripe and varietal bouquet. Youthful just picked fruit scents of dark cherry and plum layered between aromas of wood spices and stone mineral qualities. A layer of rose and violet add complexity and depth. Dry on the palate with a youthful tension from acidity and tannins. Then as the wine begins to relax in the glass, the flavours of red berries and plum return, some mineral and saline moments, then wood spice. Well made, but needs some cellar time to finish its integration journey. Best drinking from mid to late 2022 through 2027+. 93 Points RRP $39.99 giesen.co.nz
56
11
Seifried Estate Pinot Noir 2020, Nelson
A captivating bouquet of toasty French barrel smoke with clove and vanilla, then pinosity markers of dark cherry and roses, spicy plum and moments of silty mineral soils. Flavours on the palate reflect the nose with a seam of savoury dried herb adding complexity. Moderate tannins with a gently firm youthful texture, a core of fruit with contrasting acidity, moderate oak level. Balanced and well made and ready to drink from late 2021 or early 2022 and through 2026+. 93 Points RRP $20.00 seifried.co.nz
12
Stoneleigh Rapuara Series Pinot Noir 2020, Marlborough
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12
A youthful, vibrant and varietal bouquet with intense aromas of fresh dark cherry and barrel spices, moments of raspberry and plum, then a fine savoury and smoky oak complexity. Equally vibrant on the palate, with flavours of plums and dark berries and barrel spices. Firm tannins with a coarse silk and chalky texture, a core of fruit with contrasting acid line. A young wine that will benefit from some cellar time with best drinking from mid to late 2022 through 2028. 93 Points RRP $24.99 stoneleigh.com
TASTING NOTES OTHER REDS
s d e R r e th O B
lended Reds” are a category of wine that are made with two or more red varieties fermented together or, the blending of finished wine into a particular house style. “Bordeaux-style” and “Bordeaux-blend” naming conventions are slowly being phased out in Aotearoa in favour of simply naming the variety or mix on the front or back label along with the region or sub-region guiding the buyer. Weight, dryness, texture and flavours are now often described as well on the label, providing a good indication of what to expect. New Zealand produces some fantastic blended red wines with many grown in Hawke’s Bay, Gisborne, Auckland, Wairarapa, Nelson, Northland and North Canterbury. There are no rules around which varieties should be together, now however the classic blends are often the best. Single variety or blended reds can be very age worthy wines too with plenty of fruit concentration, bold tannins from oak and fruit, along with an abundance of acidity needing time to harmonise before reaching the right balance and window for drinking. Oak is almost a given with this wine category adding texture, complexity and adding months if not years to the ageing potential. Splash decanting blended red wines for service is a good technique to utilise when a wine is young and needs some oxygen ingress to age the wine a little. W
1
FHE Expatrius Syrah 2013, Waiheke Island
Bold, expressive, a core of fruit, toasty and smoky bouquet, complex and distinctive. Equally impressive on the palate with flavours of dark raspberry and powdered black pepper, spiced meats and berries. Plenty of tannin and acidity, along with wood form a great foundation for the core of fruit. Well made, youthful and primary still, with great length. Drinking best from day of purchase and through 2027+. 95 Points RRP $98.00 frenchmanshillestate.co.nz
2
Askerne Cabernet Franc 2020, Hawke’s Bay
Aromas of dark plum and black cherry, dried spices and black olive, some new tobacco and toasty barrel spices, then some violets and clove. Lovely weight and richness on the palate, plenty of acidity and firm youthful tannins contrasted by fruit and oak sweetness. Well made, youthful and needing more integration time. Best drinking from late 2022 through 2028+. Decant for service and serve with food. 93 Points RRP $24.90 askernewines.co.nz
3
Tironui Estate Malbec Merlot Cabernet 2020, Hawke’s Bay
Bright, bold and very youthful with an explosive bouquet of ripe berry fruits, blackberry and blackcurrant, dark plums, then boysenberry milk chocolate. Very floral too, with violet then some wood spices of vanilla and clove. Fleshy, fruity, youthful and vibrant on the palate with fine easy tannins and crisp acid line. Balanced with a youthful core and drive. Best drinking from 2022 through 2026+. 93 Points RRP $40.00 tironuiestate.com
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OTHER REDS TASTING NOTES
4
Thomas Barton Reserve Saint Emilion Merlot Cabernet Franc 2016, France
A lovely bouquet with classic aromas of olive and plum, dark berries and a clay mineral complexity. There’s some violet and toasty wood layers along with a moment of cassis and violet. Dry on the palate with a coarse silk texture from tannins, accentuated by the acidity. Flavours of fruit and olive, tobacco and bellpepper add complexity and varietal distinctiveness. Well made with drinking from late 2022 through 2028 recommended. Decant for service and an excellent cheeseboard wine. 93 Points RRP $34.99 barton-guestier.com
5
4
7
Trapiche Pure Black Malbec 2019, Medonza
5
Thomas Barton Reserve Bordeaux Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, France
The classic blend of Bordeaux varieties showcase aromas and flavours of blackberry and dark plums, baked green bell-pepper and tobacco, some violet and cassis moments, marmite and a touch of leather. An abundance of fine tannins and fresh acid line lay the foundation for a core of fruit. Iron and pencil lead, violets and dark cherry. Balanced, well made and ready to drink from 2022 through 2028+. 93 Points RRP $21.99 barton-guestier.com
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7
6
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8
Pegasus Bay Vergence Red MK1, North Canterbury
Thomas Barton Reserve Medoc Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2018, France
Enticing aromas of dark plums and toasty baking spices of oak. Doris plum and blackberry, clove and clay stony soil scents. Overall ripe, youthful and engaging. Weighty, youthful, primary, fruity and dry on the palate. Firm tannins and acidity deliver the foundation while the core of fruit, hay and fine tobacco flavours, along with mineral stony qualities deliver the top line of flavour. A decent mouthfeel and lengthy finish, youthful and needing some cellar time or decanting for service. Best drinking from 2022 through 2028+. 92 Points RRP $27.99 barton-guestier.com
Pure, ripe dark red fruited bouquet with aromas and flavours of plum and blackcurrant, some wild forest berries and a touch of bitter chocolate. Dry with a core of fruit flavours that mirror the bouquet, an abundance of fruit tannins and acidity, some more chocolate and balanced finish. A well made zero oak expression, fruity and ready. Best drinking from today and through 2024. 92 Points RRP $22.99 trapiche.com.ar
Fruity, savoury, varietal and ripe with aromas of dark cherries and plums, white smoke and toast, dry stone and a touch of silty soil mineral. Dry and varietal with flavours of wild red berries, olive, dried herbs and plum. Firm tannins with a raw chalk texture, medium plus acidity and brown spices of toasty oak. Young and requiring cellar time or food. Best from 2022 through 2027+. 92 Points RRP $40.00 pegasusbay.com
9
Warre’s Otima - 10 Year Old Tawny Port NV, Spain
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If you’re a fan of port, like me, you’ll be pleased you purchased this wine. Aromas and flavours of roasted nut and old roses, fresh dates and fine savoury-perfumed fruit preserves. Very smooth and silky on the palate with a warm and spicy mid palate, fruit and wood tannins are fine, adding complexity as well as texture. Mouthwatering with a core of spices and sweetness. Delicious and lengthy. Best drinking from day of purchase and through 2040+. 95 Points RRP $54.00 negociants.com/nz
TASTING NOTES BEST OF THE REST
Cameron's Best of
2021 W
hat a remarkable year it has been for Aotearoa’s wine sector. On the back of two outstanding vintages, 2019 and 2020, 2021 has delivered outstanding quality, though quite a bit less on volume. I’ve noted some producers 30 percent or more lower than the previous vintage, for others it was relatively normal. From what I have tasted recently, the early release Rosé, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc wines reflect the vintage’s quality with some excellent examples. As a wine writer and reviewer of all things beverage, I encounter many expressions of wine from some outstanding producers, so curating a list of wines that represent some of the best of Aotearoa is no easy task. This year it seemed best to focus on wines with great texture, purity of fruit, complexity and concentration along with mouthfeel and finish. This is not a complete list, rather examples of some standout New Zealand wine I think you also will be impressed with. For a more comprehensive list please visit The Shout and camdouglasms.com. W
WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2021/22
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BEST OF THE REST TASTING NOTES
CHARDONNAY
PINOTS GRIS
Still my favourite expression with power and elegance, purity and speaks of site with fresh fragrances of peach and quince. A nutty, Lewis Road salty dairy scent, wonderful texture and mouthfeel. 97 Points.
Ripe, fleshy, varietal and pure fruited, showcasing flavours of white spice and green pear, white flowers, apple, lees and a whisper of ginger spice. 94 Points.
Kumeu River Coddington Vineyard Chardonnay 2020.
Black Barn Vineyards Single Vineyard Pinot Gris 2020.
Te Pā Pinot Gris 2021. Palliser Estate SV ‘Om Santi’ Chardonnay 2020.
Incredibly complex, mineral and fruit centric bouquet with layers of wood spice, wild flowers with a sense of place and time. 96 points.
Domain Road Vineyard Defiance Chardonnay 2019.
Youthful and fresh, embracing flavours of soil and fruit that reflect the bouquet, fine wood tannins, some new and used barrel. 96 Points.
Greystone Erin’s Chardonnay 2019.
Sophisticated, intriguing, mineral and fruit-centric wine with spicy oak, sweet citrus and peaches, apricot and tropical apple-fruits. Vanilla, nut-like French butter and layers of limestone mineral complexity. 96 Points.
MÉTHODE TRADITIONNELLE Cuvee Adele 2016.
Seductive and complex, rich in scents of autolysis and roasted stone fruits, butter brioche and nut, preserved lemon and mineralladen. Fantastic on the palate with full-bodied soft unfurling mousse releasing flavours of citrus and stone fruits, baked apple, lemon peel and baked goods. Harmonious and complex. The perfect gift. 97 Points.
Amisfield Brut 2018.
Complex, detailed, youthful and precise. Grapefruit, white strawberry and apple lead to a powerful autolysis with fresh brioche and gun-flint, butter croissant, then white peach. A mealy texture, white-fleshed stone fruits, salivating saline acid line and layers of autolysis effect. 96 Points.
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Delicately spicy with aromas and flavours of baked brown pear and fresh yellow apple, a touch of citrus and white spice. There’s a fine leesy quality, ginger and white flowers. 93 Points.
Loveblock Pinot Gris 2020.
An elegant, silky textured expression with fresh Bosc pear and red apple, white nectarine and honeysuckle. 93 Points.
AROMATICS
Dry River Craighall Vineyard Riesling 2020.
Seductive, enticing, voluptuous and highly scented. Layers of fruit spice, flowers, citrus and quince. A fantastic wine with a concentrated core, silky and smooth with contrasting acidity and moments of fruit spice, roses and peach. 98 Points.
Greywacke Riesling 2020.
Pure and floral, fruity with scents of white blossoms and lemongrass, fresh Granny Smith apple, honeysuckle and a touch of white spice. Lengthy, complex and delicious. 96 Points.
Misha’s Limelight Riesling 2019.
A stunning example with power and intensity in the bouquet, flavours of lime flower and green apple, lemongrass, mandarin and a core of citrus. Off-dry with a tease of sugar and flinty mineral moments. 95 Points.
Dicey Chenin Blanc 2021.
Flavours of white-fleshed fruits and citrus, apple and pear with blossoms and honeysuckle. An off-dry expression with contrasting acidity, excellent texture and vibrato. 93 Points.
WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2021/22
SAUVIGNON BLANC AND GRUNER VELTLINER Amisfield Fumé Sauvignon Blanc 2019.
A style signified by aromas and flavours of wood smoke and soil. Complexity, depth and character with fresh citrus and apple, sage and thyme and a subtle yet clear scent of wood spice. 95 Points.
Dog Point Vineyard Section 94 Sauvignon Blanc 2015. Fantastic aromas and palate, complexity and silky texture. Ripe citrus and apple, leesy complexity, yellow plums, pears and moments of quince. 95 Points.
Zephyr MKIII Sauvignon Blanc 2020.
Aromas of leesy spices and fresh fruits from the tropics and local orchard. Sage and thyme, then grapefruit, melon and mineral. 95 Points.
Blank Canvas Holdaway Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021. Vibrant and expressive with flavours of white spices, fresh herbs, citrus and white-fleshed stone fruit. A tropical fruit platter saline minerality. Crunchy, fresh fruits and herbs then a stony mineral salty mouthfeel. 94 Points.
Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021.
Distinctive Awatere expression with a savoury core, flavours of apple and lemon, white-fleshed stone fruits and dried herbs. A layer of salty mineral and stones. 94 Points.
Lime Rock Gruner Veltliner 2021.
A classic expression, precise and with finesse. Flavours of whitefleshed tree fruits, citrus peel and savoury white vegetable suggestions. 94 Points.
ROSÉ
Maude Rosé 2021.
Fantastic colour and bouquet of sweet rose and ripe cranberry, red cherry and Pacific Rose
apple. Pure, fresh and enticing, a silky-cream texture, core of red berry fruit and apple skin flavours, contrasting acid line and lengthy finish. Be quick! 94 Points.
PINOT NOIR
Villa Maria Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Pinot Noir 2019.
Ripe red fruits with dark cherry and raspberry compote, ripe cranberry and tart raspberry, fine oak, mineral laden and pure. Fine chalky tannins, fantastic mouthfeel with finesse and charm. 96 Points.
Te Whare Ra TWR SV 5096 Clayvin Pinot Noir 2019.
Complex with a distinctive seam of minerality preceding aromas of ripe red berries, layers of oak spices and barrel qualities. Tense, youthful, vibrant, fresh and dry. 96 Points.
Bald Hills Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017. Aromas of Central Otago landscape with a rocky mineral and dried herb lift, contrasted by a core of raspberry and dark plum, black cherry and myriad dried herbs. 95 Points.
Clos Henri Estate Pinot Noir 2017.
Pure, ripe, fresh, gently savoury with a noticeable minerality. Very pretty with scents of fresh red cherry, red apple and sweet rose. Fine chalky tannins are in abundance carrying texture and flavour. 95 Points.
Quartz Reef Bendigo Estate ‘Otto’ Pinot Noir 2017.
Pure fruited with flavours of dark cherry and baking spices, a deep mineral and silty soil layer, some wood smoke and vanilla, forest flowers and soft wild thyme and dried herb moments. An incredible example. 95 Points.
RED BLENDS Esk Valley Heipipi The Terraces 2018.
Seductive, youthful and alluring with flavours of violets and cherries, plums and fresh blackberries, clove and vanilla oak. Flavours of anise
TASTING NOTES BEST OF THE REST
NZW.Inc. Escarpment Vineyard.
and licorice, cassis, and violets and. Firm tannins, very polished, fresh and refined. 98 Points.
Elephant Hill Airavata Syrah 2018.
A captivating and enticing wine with a powerful core of red berry fruits and fresh, new, spicy toasty oak layers. There’s no mistaking a core of complexity and energy, sweetness, ripeness, licorice, red berries and intriguing flavours. 97 Points.
Squawking Magpie SQM 2014.
A focused and concentrated complexity with a core of fresh and baked black-fleshed fruits, violets and sweet new wood scents. Polished tannins, vibrant sweet acidity and layers of smoky oak, gravelly earthy qualities and long complex finish. 97 Points.
Trinity Hill Prison Block SV Cabernet Sauvignon 2019.
A powerful core of dark berries, baking spices, toasty barrel, bacon, tobacco, hay, bell-pepper and coarse stony earthy complexities.
Cassis and blackberry, bitter chocolate and dark plum, bramble and bouquet-garni, clove and vanilla, toasty barrel and cigar-box. 97 Points.
LVCA Ludwig Vanneron Le Charmant 2019.
Very complex with a core of dark red fruits and new wood, smoked oak, sweet tobacco and baking spices. Youthful, charming and floral. Full-bodied with flavours of blackcurrant, blackberry, Doris plums and clove, cigar tobacco and vanilla pod. 96 Points.
Paritua Vineyards 21·12 Cabernets 2018.
Blackberry and roasted plums, dark chocolate and smoky tobacco oak complexities. Compelling, rich in flavour and texture, with barrel spices and fruit flavours, firm tannins are abundant and ripe. 96 Points.
Clos de Ste Anne The Crucible Syrah 2019.
Complex, detailed, seductive, youthful and enticing with flavours of blackcurrant and spice, lightly-
smoked meats and wild flowers. A wholly natural, earthy complexity, flavours of heirloom red fruits and berries, lees, licorice and soft barrel spices. 96 Points.
Radburnd Cellars Syrah 2019.
A layered bouquet with scents of red and purple-skinned fruits, a distinctive French oak with Hawke’s Bay crushed stones minerality. Youthful, primary and alluring. Fantastic structure, dark red berries, wild violets and soft savoury complexity. 96 Points.
Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Syrah 2019.
Intensely varietal and fruity with a core of ripe raspberry and red currant fruit then white peppercorn scents. There’s no mistaking the layer of fresh toasty new oak with baking spices, bacon and toasty barrel aromas. 95 Points.
Huchet Syrah 2019.
Powerful aromas and flavours, distinctively fruity with scents of dark plums and black cherries, blue
fruits then bold spices of French oak and brown spices of clove and vanilla with a bacon (oak) edginess with a natural peppery lift. 95 Points.
Frenchmans Hill Estate Expatrius Syrah 2013.
A smoky bouquet, complex and distinctive. Flavours of dark raspberry and powdered black pepper, spiced meats and berries. Plenty of tannin and acidity, youthful and primary with great length. 95 Points.
Swift Gamay 2021.
Ripe, fruity, classic and inviting with flavours of fresh red apple, cherry, raspberry and bubble-gum, roses and fresh boysenberry. Crisp, tense, refreshing and dry. 93 Points
SWEET FINISH Greywacke Botrytis Pinot Gris 2018.
Flavours of honeyed peaches and apricots, beeswax, apple and a moment of wheat-beer. Lusciously sweet with contrasting acidity, spicy, lengthy and utterly delicious. 95 Points
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p o r D t Las THE
CAMERON REFLECTS ON HOW SOME GREAT WINES HAVE COME UP FOR TASTING THIS ISSUE.
I
n tasting through several hundred wine samples since the winter edition of World of Wine I have been really impressed by the quality at all price points. The vineyard teams and winemakers throughout Aotearoa have done a sterling job of tending vines and crafting some great wine for us all to enjoy. The stickers and written endorsements you might notice in print and on wine bottles really do mean something when you’re looking for decent wine and value. I do recognise though, not all producers need or want bottle stickers, though a written endorsement does carry weight when researching your purchases, especially online. This edition has been about expanding your understanding of modern wine styles, endorsing what you already knew about some of your favourite wine producers and the links between food and wine like chocolate or cheese with wine as well as some great matches with beef short-rib, eye-fillet or slow cooked lamb shoulder. Two articles I enjoyed writing were on natural wine, the new Coravin wine access and preserving tool and the Durand.
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WORLD OF WINE – SUMMER 2021/22
Wine reviews on my website camdouglasms. com are always complimentary, done as a courtesy to our fine wine industry. This means every review is honest, detailed and not advertorial. At the website and on some wine bottles in outlets you may spot my camdouglasms endorsement. In their distinctive Mustang yellow and black, the stickers on bottles and printed material will be easy to spot – see below. These are not award stickers, but a highly visual endorsement of great winemaking. There are four tiers in my system and as a guide include – Recommended, for wines that you can buy with confidence knowing they will taste great today; Premium, for wines with special qualities, a 90 – 92 score; Excellent, for wines with concentration, texture, character and quality, a 93 – 94 score and Outstanding, for wines that are impeccable and cellar worthy, 95 points or higher. The Winter edition of World of Wine 2022 will be available in late June. Until then, always stay humble and kind and don’t forget – only drink fantastic wine. W
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