2007 Summer

Medical

Technology

Skin Health

News Makers

Understanding Hair Damage

Skin Needs Protection Too

First Laser Expo

Meet Mark Kress

By Dr. John Gray

L’Oreal Sunscreen approved by the FDA

First Hair Society Hair Loss Laser Expo

Founder and CEO of Spencer Forrest International

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pg. 17

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The National Hair Journal

VOLUME 11 NO. 42 THE PROFESSIONAL PUBLICATION

OF

HAIR REPLACEMENT & RESTORATION

AND

Aderans Buying MHR Aims to boost its profile in the United States Tokyo, 05/07 - Aderans Co. Ltd., the world’s largest hair replacement company, is in final negotiations to buy Medical Hair Restoration (MHR) with headquarters in Maitland, Florida. In a press release issued in Tokyo, Aderans declared that the acquisition was expected to be completed by the end of June, 2007. MHR is the second largest hair restoration group in the United

Takayoshi Okamoto, Chairman, Aderans

Dr. Matthew Leavitt, Founder, MHR

States, in dollar terms, with clinics in fortyfour cities. It is a closely held company

with most of the stock owned by founder and Medical Director, Matthew Leavitt and his brother Michael. MHR entered into a joint marketing relationship with Hair Club for Men several years ago, but discontinued it after eighteen months. Aderans has announced its intention of keeping Medical Hair Restoration as an autonomous company and not merging it with its other cosmetic surgery group, Bosley, which it acquired in August, 2001. It is estimated that MHR and Bosley will jointly command 20% of the hair transplant market.

Regis Reconfigures for Growth Hair extensions seen a profit opportunity Minneapolis 4-07- Regis Corporation (NYSE: RGS) will merge its 51 accredited cosmetology schools with Empire Beauty Schools, Inc.’s 37 schools to become the largest provider of cosmetology education in North America with 88 schools in 18 states educating approximately 20,000 students per year. This new company will be called Empire Education Group, Inc. The deal should close on July 1, 2007.

In January Regis same-store sales at salons

Regis Corporation is the beauty industry’s global leader in salons, hair restoration centers and education. Owning, operating and franchising 11,773 worldwide locations; including 11,627 beauty salons, 90 hair restoration centers and 88 beauty schools with the Empire merger, operating under concepts such as Supercuts, Jean Louis David, Vidal Sassoon, Regis Salons, MasterCuts, Trade Secret, SmartStyle, Cost Cutters and Hair Club for Men and Women. Regis Corporation’s hair restoration centers offer three hair restoration solutions: hair systems, hair transplants and hair therapy. The number of customer visits at the Company’s Company-owned salons approximated 104 million on 2006.

Widow Sues Hair Transplant Group

BIG DOGS EYE BEAUTY MARKET

Regis Corporation announced the regular quarterly dividend of four cents per share will be payable to shareholders May 25, 2007. Regis sees fourth-quarter earnings between 53 cents and 60 cents, and predicted fiscal 2008 earnings could rise slightly. Regis expects samestore sales growth, or sales in stores open at least one year, to be between flat and 2 percent.

Same-store sales are considered a key measure of a retailer’s financial strength because they measure growth from existing stores rather than growth from new stores. Analysts see a profit of $2.48 on revenue of $2.77 billion.

Jail Bait!

Iranian hairdressers get uptight Tehran, 05/07 - In America, an extravagant mohawk hair style earned Sanjaya votes on the American Idol TV show, plus a slew of teenybopper fans. A mohawk in Iran however, may get you arrested. Mohammed Eftekharifard, head of the Tehran Union of Men’s Hairdressers, sent a letter to 2,000 Iranian barbers’ shops. He warned them to cut their services, stop plucking men’s eyebrows, dying hair odd colors and trimming locks into mohawk cuts and conspicuous spikes.

The epitome of conservative fashion himself, Eftekharifard with his neatly trimmed hair wants to make sure his barber colleagues don’t get arrested. The Islamic Republic of Iran has long been known for its firm views on how women should look. They aren’t allowed to go out in public without a headscarf and are sometimes detained for showing too much hair. Now there is a new campaign in Tehran to enforce “Islamic norms” among men, including shunning the necktie, which is regarded as “too Western” and associated with memories of the late deposed Shah. Police hunting the streets and parks for immodestly dressed women in April, cautioned 16,000 women and 500 men in one week. Iranian

took a hit from bad weather, Chief Executive Paul Finkelstein said on a conference call with analysts. “We had many salons in Texas and Ohio open for literally an hour and closed because of ice or snow,” Finkelstein said. He suggested one way to lift sales in the coming months would be through the company’s hair extension business. A new venture with organic products company Intelligent Nutrients will sell organic dietary supplements, coffee and tea in its salons.

Los Angeles, 04/07 - Walter Riley was supposed to look better. Instead he died following a hair transplant operation that went terribly wrong. A year later, his widow is suing Crown Cosmetic Surgery for medical malpractice.

Crown Cosmetic told the Journal that the tragedy may have been the result of an allergic reaction to the medication.

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad and his staff and dignitaries never wear ties including at official events where they address Heads of State or at the United Nations.

The mohawk worn by Sanjaya on American Idol, also dubbed the “pony hawk,” started a tidal wave of requests to hair stylist everywhere from Idol wanabees who yearned to look like their hero. At www.americanidol.com you can follow the step by step instructions, courtesy of the Pantene™ product line, and Dean Banowetz. To coiff your own pony hawk, Dean, who has been Hair Stylist on American Idol since the show began, suggests you make seven pony tails secured by elastic bands. These ponytails are then backcombed, joined invisibly by barrettes and sprayed firmly into place. Now the mohawk is going mainstream; fashion houses are showing their own interpretation of 2007’s most memorable hair style, the mohawk, on their runway models.

New York, 05/07 – Venture capitalists are eying the personal care market as the next big profit opportunity for their deep-pocketed investors. Products targeted at the burgeoning baby-boomer segment continue to avoid aggressive price-competition and deliver fat profit margins According to Business Week; two trends are driving the market; changing demographics and the willingness of men and women to spend lavishly to keep their youthful appearance. The trend is facilitated by corporations and even the government as they offload more of the responsibility and cost of health care onto workers.

Allergan Inc., a company that discovers and develops products such as runaway success Botox, saw sales exceed $1 billion in 2006, up from $239 million in 2000. Thermage Inc., another provider of wrinkle treatments, also received generous financing by Morgenthaler Ventures and Delphi Ventures, and went public in November. "This is going to be a giant field," says Robert T. Nelsen, managing director of ARCH Venture Partners, who backs Kythera Biopharmaceuticals Inc.

SKIN HEALTH SUMMER 2007

Hair Club Enforces Non-Competes Ex- Hair Club stylists in court for stealing clients Sacramento, 04/07 - In a complaint filed in U.S. District Court in Sacramento, Hair Club for Men alleges that Danielle Eaton and Tina Moskal violated the terms of Non-Compete Agreements the women each signed when hired by the company. From December 2006 to March 2007 at least 20 clients of Ms Moskal and 14 clients of Ms Eaton cancelled their appointments or contracts with HCM to continue with the services at Elite Solutions Hair Alternatives, a rival business where they were newly employed.

Hair Club hired Frasco Investigative Services to observe Elite Solutions Hair Alternatives and surveillance evidence presented in court showed the ex-clients as they entered the business. The surveillance images were included in a recent court filing by Hair Club, which operates 90 restoration facilities nationwide and bills itself as, "The world's leading provider of all proven hair loss solutions". Hair Club, which won a March 22 temporary restraining order against Eaton and Moskal, is a division of the publicly-held Regis Company. Hair Club was founded nearly 30 years ago by Sy Sperling, who became a household name after starring in the company's TV commercials declaring "I’m not just the president, I'm also a client." In 2004, Regis bought Hair Club for $210 million.

Hello Robots

Good-Bye Medical Assistants Palo Alto, CA. 05/07 - Ready to put your feet up while the robot does the work? Restoration Robotics Inc. is testing a robotic device that performs hair transplants. Transplant-surgery outcomes can vary according to the surgeon's skill. Restoration's robot -- which is surgeoncontrolled -- produces uniform results in half the time, says CEO Jim McCollum. When can you expect to meet your new employee? It’s still in the research phase we’re told, but the technology has arrived!

2 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

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I’ve changed my mind - For many years, I have been saying that hair replacement and restoration is not a technology driven business. I’ve changed my mind. Two things brought this about; the tremendous impact of low level laser light therapy on the hair loss market… and a moment of clarity at the gym this morning. I was pounding away on my stepper watching other people go from machine to machine, each one tailored to a specific muscle group. As they adjusted the equipment and settled into their routine, it was clear that they were counting on the machines to fine-tune their bodies. And when you think about it, we all rely more and more on technology to solve even personal problems. Multivitamins maintain vitality, melatonin adjusts your circadian rhythm after a long flight across different time zones, patches and pills adjust your hormonal levels, exercise equipment promises to “sculpt” our bodies. So why should we be surprised when men and women look to technology to give them back their hair?

That’s why I believe light therapy is going to be a huge market.

Following the leader - I was listening to our HairLoss Newsmakers interview with the chief scientific officer from Procter & Gamble’s Head & Shoulders division. He reminded me that he has a team of nine Ph.D.’s working on one brand! And that’s only the high-end researchers. It doesn’t include the support staff. I was so impressed that I went looking for my free product samples and put them in the shower to try the next morning. To no one’s surprise, the results were impressive. I was using “Smooth & Silky” which was more than a little ambitious for someone with gray, lifeless hair. But the results were impressive. Years ago, before the industry converted to client service plans with hair systems being renewed every few months, it was not possible to experiment with different shampoos and conditioners. Clients were told to stick to products with low oil formulas in order not to loosen the hair tied into their systems. Similarly, hair dyes and coloring agents were limited to blue-based products that would not oxidize to gold and reddish tones.

But all that has changed. Today, clients are free to experiment without fear of creating long-term damage. That means we have to do our homework and steer them towards premium brands that will make them look their best. Head & Shoulders is not a bad place to start.

Blame the post office - We have only raised the subscription rate for The National Hair Journal once in its 10 year history. But with postal rates rising again, we are now forced to increase our rates to $49 for a 12 month subscription. The Journal remains a remarkably high quality product for a small, niche market. We hope you’ll agree it’s outstanding value for money and hope you’ll continue to read and participate in its content for many years to come.

In this issue - Managing editor, Penny Moss, continues to add a personal

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touch to the pages of the Journal. You’ll see more color, more pictures and more flair. After hosting Hair Loss Newsmakers, our consumer broadcast division, for over a year; Penny is now bringing her expertise to the Journal.

Her main feature article is a personal interview with Mark Kress, founder and CEO of Spencer Forrest international. This is the company that launched Toppik and Couvre 25 years ago and is the leader in the cosmetic solutions to hair loss category. Mark describes how his own hair loss led him to develop a winning company and now brings him into the laser marketplace.

Look at all the photos - Our Seen and Heard section keeps on growing. In this issue, that you’ll see pictures of your friends, colleagues and competitors at shows and workshops around the country. We understand that your days are busy and you cannot attend every event, so we try hard to bring you the highlights in pictures. As always, we invite you to share your own news and photos. If you or your staff has something to share, or something we could all learn from, we would be happy to publish it.

The consolidation continues - Our main news story is the acquisition of Medical Hair Restoration by Aderans, the world’s biggest hair replacement and restoration company. Industry analysts will not be surprised. MHR has long been rumored to be on the block and what better partner could they find that Aderans? Aderans already owns five US hair loss companies including Bosley, and the addition of MHR gives them a commanding presence in the market. While Aderans has issued a brief press release in Tokyo, neither MHR nor Bosley wish to make any official comment until the transaction is completed. Look for more mergers and strategic partnerships in the months ahead.

Mergers Mania?- Mergers and acquisitions are not only for the big marketing groups. The hair replacement market remains fragmented and there are still deals to be made. If consolidation frenzy has got you breathing heavily, it may be time to put your business – or investment dollars – in the hands of a professional.

Most owners and managers don’t know how to put a realistic valuation on their business, how to put out discrete feelers to explore market opportunities, and most of all, how to keep everything confidential. So what’s the answer? Talk to the Hair Czar, Joel Morgenthau. He is listed in the Hair Society manual and he’s put more hair deals together than anyone else in the industry. Maybe you’ll be the next Hair Journal news story!

Chris Webb

Editor in Chief Christopher L. Webb

3 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Eyebrows Are Back!

Hottest New Beauty Trend The beauty media has announced that eyebrows are back —clearly seen during New York Fashion Week runway shows – full, thick and more pronounced.

Eyebrows are everywhere (Vogue, Bazaar, InStyle, Allure), a trend which has unleashed the dueling divas of Beverly Hills – Valerie Sarnelle and Anastasia – the “arched” rivals of the celebrity eyebrow kingdom who are battling it out for supremacy.

The media is so full of the hot new trend, that it must be the new Botox of the cosmetic world!

USA Today reports that “eyebrow sculpting can open your face, give you more definition and help you express yourself.” Health Magazine announces that “according to Edwin Suddleson, M.D., combined with aging, which causes hair loss all over your body, it’s no surprise

“donor area” at the back or sides of the scalp and artistically placed in the eyebrow area with attention to shape, thickness and appropriate degree of the arch.

As with hair transplantation, the hair is dormant for three months before the new growth begins. Patients can easily repeat the procedure if additional fullness is

desired. The results are permanent and plucking or dying does not affect the health of the transplanted hairs.

According to Edwin Suddleson, M.D., Assistant Medical Director of Bosley, “we are benefiting from our many years

that brows are sparse.” Cosmogirl calls eyebrow transplantation a ”beauty secret of the stars” to combat overplucking, and O Magazine cites Dr. Ken Washenik, Medical Director of Bosley, “during eyebrow transplantation, individual hair follicles are removed and placed into the brow area to re-create whatever density you like.” Television can’t get enough either, a Bosley/Washenik segment aired on Good Morning America, April 28th.

of experience in advancing hair restoration technology to help pioneer and expand the market to eyebrows, certainly one of the most important facial features that impacts expression and personality.

Eyebrows are something we take for granted, but when they are thin, absent or tattooed it’s the first thing you notice. An otherwise beautiful face looks incomplete without eyebrows.”

Dr. Suddleson was interviewed on CBS news Los Angeles April 30th. Other stations clamoring for interviews included FOX and Friends, FOX national news, CBS national news, and the Tyra Banks show.

Eyebrow restoration requires a specialized expertise and sense of artistry.

Patients are typically women between 25-50 although men also take advantage of the procedure. (Any trauma that removes hair potentially causes permanent hair loss including plucking, waxing or trichotillomania (pulling hair out by the roots).) This market is growing rapidly as the public gains awareness of the new cosmetic surgical option. The American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery just released the results of a new study that concluded that one in 5 Americans wants cosmetic surgery someday. No doubt many will be the new eyebrow transplantation procedure.

Ladies with skinny, old-fashioned brows are now “out.” “Too much plucking has left many balding and it is practically a national epidemic”, says Dr. Washenik.

“In addition, some people are born without brows or with patchy uneven brows.

Aside from genetics, brow loss can stem from a variety of causes: trauma, illness, plastic surgery scars and more.”

Whatever the cause, Bosley, known as the world’s leading hair restoration expert, has added eyebrow transplantation to its cosmetic surgical procedures available for men and women.

Permanent hair loss in the brow area can be corrected permanently with follicular unit transplantation, the same state-ofthe-art technique used in hair transplantation for balding and thinning areas of the scalp.

The Bosley techniques yield natural results and can be performed in a simple in-office procedure. Hair is taken from a

About Bosley Bosley enters its 33rd year in surgical hair transplantation in 2007 with nearly 200,000 procedures performed since 1974 — the world’s most experienced hair restoration expert. Bosley advanced many of the artistic techniques used worldwide today to achieve natural results under the leadership of hair restoration pioneer L. Lee Bosley, M.D. There are eighty-seven locations throughout the U.S., Canada and Mexico.

4 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Meet

Mark Kress The Man Who Invented the Cosmetic HairLoss Category Mark Kress is the founder and president of Spencer Forrest Inc., the company that almost single-handedly created the category of cosmetic solutions for thinning-hair. Like so many hairloss businesses, Spencer Forrest was the response of one man to his own predicament. In this interview, Mark takes us back 26 years to those early days and describes how Couvre led to Toppik and, now to laser light therapy.

Spencer Forrest markets Couvre, a lotioncompound that colors the skin to disguise

Mark Kress the thinning area, Toppik, organic keratin protein fibers that intertwine with growing hair to make it look thicker, Toppek Hair Fattener, Fullmore aerosol fibers that bond to hair to add thickness and color; and now X-5 a new handheld laser .

NHJ: 1981 was the year you started something that went on to become a worldwide success story. Mark, take us back 26 years to a time when there was no Spencer Forrest and a decision you made that would change your life.

MK: In 1981, I was a single guy watching the beginnings of a bald spot and feeling pretty unhappy about it. I looked around for what I figured would be a variety of cosmet-

ic products that would help somebody in the early stages of thinning – and there was nothing! All I wanted was to conceal my lack of hair and look good; but to my amazement, there was nothing to help me on the market. There were some clumsy sprays that didn’t do a very good job, but nothing else. So, as a person with a marketing and advertising background, I decided this was an opportunity to create a new product… and maybe grow it into a business. That was the birth of Spencer Forrest Inc., but I didn’t know just how big it would become.

NHJ: Where did you start?

MK: My first product was called Couvre and after all this time, it’s still on the market. It’s a cream that darkens your scalp to match your hair. Couvre became the standard among make-up people; even doctors who would recommend it to their patients.

NHJ: But you didn’t stop at Couvre did you?

MK: After many years in the business, we began looking for a more advanced product.

This resulted in the introduction of Toppik eleven years ago. It is now the world’s leading cosmetic product for enhancing thinning hair and concealing the signs of thinning.

Toppik is made up of pure carotene fibers that are colored to match the eight most common hair colors. We have a process in which we charge the Toppik fibers with static electricity to make them adhere to your fine vellus hairs. About 30 seconds after

shaking the product into your hair, your hair looks thicker and appears to have more volume.

NHJ: Who is Toppik designed for?

MK: Toppik has become a great product for people in all walks of life. Hair transplant patients can use it during a cosmetically awkward period like post operative thinning. It’s also great for people who are taking Minoxidil or Propecia and want to see an immediate result. And, of course, it’s great for special occasions or any time people simply want to feel better.

NHJ: Today, Spencer Forrest offers multiple hairloss solutions. Do you believe it’s important to give the consumer a range of choices?

MK: Since its inception, the mission of our company has been to provide a cosmetic benefit to hair loss patients. Our products do an incredible of making people look and feel better. Prior to lasers, we never became involved with products which attempt to grow or restore hair.

NHJ: Is a laser a good companion to your other hair loss solutions?

MK: Absolutely. It enhances whatever they are doing now. The laser does not replace other products, it complements them.

NHJ: How have your clients responded?

MK: We have been getting very good feedback from our customers in terms of the results they are seeing. It’s reassuring to hear we’re selling something to people that really works. I should add that it is also a very profitable and growing area of our business.

NHJ: At the beginning of this interview, you explained how your own experience led you to create Couvre. Have you had a similar personal experience with light therapy?

MK: Yes, I have. I’ve had several hair transplant surgeries with a good deal of success, but nevertheless I retained some thinning at the crown. As soon as we started selling the LaserComb, I began using it on myself and found it produced results. It did not grow back all of the hair, which I didn’t expect, but I def initely saw increased growth.

NHJ: You started off using Couvre, moved on to Toppik, had hair restoration surgery… and now you are using a laser. Is this typical of hair loss clients today?

MK: More and more. Our clients are coming to realize that there is more than one answer to hairloss. And many solutions, like laser therapy, work best in tandem with other regimens.

NHJ: Why is hair important to you?

MK: I’m probably more vain than I like to admit. When my hair looks good, I feel like I look great. And when my hair doesn’t look good, I don’t feel the same way. Hair has always mattered to me.

NHJ: Are most of your customers like this?

MK: Most of our clients are extremely concerned about their hair. I see myself as the gauge, or laboratory for new products and technologies.

NHJ: April 2007, Spencer Forrest took another step, this time into the laser marketplace. Tell us about the X-5 hair laser.

MK: For the past two years, we have been in quiet development of our own hair laser.

There were several reasons for this. First of all, we recognized that despite the commercial success we were having with the HairMax LaserComb, we were not the manufacturer of that product and could never fully enjoy the financial rewards. Secondly, we wanted to provide customers with new features, but at a lower price point. We felt this would open up a much larger market to lasers and benefit everyone.

NHJ: The X-5 hair laser is very different in its physical configuration. Let’s go over the design features one by one. Let’s start with the shape. Why is it round?

MK: When you start with a blank sheet of paper, interesting things happen. We were looking for the most naturally comfortable design, and it happens that a round format sits perfectly in the palm of your hand. We also sought greater coverage than devices shaped like hairbrushes.

NHJ: We also don’t see any power cord.

MK: In 2007, we didn’t feel there was a need to have a product tethered to a wall outlet. We wanted a cordless product that would, fit comfortably in your hand and lend itself to the greatest ease of use. The easier and more comfortable it is to use, the greater the compliance… and the better the results.

5 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

NHJ: How do you use the X-5?

MK: The round shape allows you to rest the X-5 on your head as you’re applying it, taking all the pressure off your shoulder and elbow. The fact that it’s cordless means that you can sit in a chair and watch television or work at your computer, rather than standing in front of your bathroom mirror for 10-15 minutes.

NHJ: We see 15 light sources, arranged in a circular pattern. They appear to be mounted ina floating base.

MK: One problem many laser devices have is the fact that laser light has to work its way through the hair to reach the scalp. Our design uses light pipes that channel the light so it emerges where the pipes actually make contact with your scalp. By gently working the X-5 in a circular motion, you can help the light bypasses virtually all the hair.

NHJ: How are the diodes aligned?

MK: We have five laser diodes, with each laser divided into three equal beams. We wanted to equalize the amount of light coming out of these three points and we achieved this by mounting each one on an individually floating head. Since it’s a three-point design, and, as you know a three-legged stool keeps all three feet on the ground, all three light pipes always make contact with the scalp. Each of these membranes floats independently of the others, like a Norelco Floating Head Shaver, so that they’re always in perfect position and they always conform to your head.

NHJ: With a 9 square inch coverage area, does this translate to a time-saving for a user?

MK: We think it does. The X-5 covers a significantly larger area than any other handheld device on the market and we think this is an important benefit.

NHJ: What is the recommended application time?

MK: Once we begin our clinical trials, we will have a better sense of the optimum time.

At this point in time, we recommend the same time per session as most other units.

NHJ: The X-5 has an integrated timer.

Why? MK: The digital readout shows the elapsed time so there’s no guesswork for the user. If you’re watching TV or talking on the phone, you may not know how long you’ve been using the laser. There’s an automatic turnoff at 15 minutes.

NHJ: What about battery life?

MK: The readout includes a battery meter that shows you how much charge remains. If you’re going on a trip for 5 or 6 days, you’ll likely be using your laser three times. The battery is strong enough that you may well be able to travel with the X-5 without bringing the charging base.

NHJ: We’ve talked about the technology and comfort. What about the aesthetics?

MK: I wanted a device that would sit handsomely in your bathroom. Something you’d hold in your hand and feel it was worth several hundred dollars. To my mind, this unit is handsome, comfortable, and has virtually every function you would want. And at $299 retail and with generous wholesale pricing, it is by far the most economical laser unit for hair.

NHJ: Readers of The National Hair Journal are hair loss professionals. How would you see them integrating the X-5 into their day-

to-day business?

MK: If I was operating such a business, I would be remiss in not offering a laser. It’s simply a choice of which device is best for the job.

NHJ: In the market, there are well-produced lasers… and less well-produced and overpromised lasers. How can we guide the public to the right equipment?

MK: There are already a number of devices we’ve all seen on the Internet at very low prices that are clearly assembled by hand, and most likely in somebody’s garage. Then there are products that are being sold that have no lasers whatsoever, just LED lights that offer no benefits. Products like this hurt everyone. If a professional is going to be working with a home laser unit, they need to deal with one of the companies that are respected in the industry. These would include Lexington International and Spencer Forest in the handheld area and the premium manufacturers in the floor units.

NHJ: What steps is Spencer Forrest taking to educate professionals about the X-5 handheld laser?

MK: We plan on expanding our website to provide more information. We are also developing an instructional DVD. We’ve hired a PR firm to get the word out that products like these really work… and we will be looking to participate in industry-wide events such as those put on by the National Hair Society.

NHJ

A Guide to Surviving Chemo

By Monique Smith

Most of us do not think of the importance of hair in our everyday life until we are faced with losing it. By the time we meet our clients who have cancer and are about to undergo chemotherapy, the chance of losing hair is now very real to them. Both men and women report hair loss as one of the side effects they fear most, after being diagnosed with cancer.

Whether or not hair falls out from chemotherapy depends mostly on the type and dose of medication received. But whether our client can maintain a healthy body image after their hair falls out depends a lot on their attitude, their friends and family and the quality of support they receive from their hair loss professional or stylist.

Chemotherapy drugs are powerful medications that attack rapidly growing cancer cells.

Unfortunately, these drugs also attack other rapidly growing cells in the body, including those in the hair follicles. Drugs involved in chemotherapy may cause hair loss all over the body, not just on the scalp. Eyelashes, eyebrows, armpit, pubic, and other body hair may also fall out. Some chemotherapy drugs are more likely than others to cause hair loss, and different doses can cause anything from a mere thinning to complete baldness.

Fortunately, most hair loss from chemotherapy is temporary. You can expect a full head of hair to re-grow six months to a year after stopping treatment, though hair may temporarily be a different shade or texture. It might be curlier than it was before, or it could be gray until the cells that control pigment in hair begin functioning again.

Hair usually begins falling out 10 to 14 days after starting treatment, very quickly in clumps, or more gradually. Accumulations of loose hair are noticed on the pillow, in hairbrushes, or in the shower drain.

Hair loss will continue through treatment and up to a month afterward. Whether the hair thins, or the person becomes completely bald will not be known until treatment is underway.

Generally, fifty percent of hair can be lost before it is noticeable to other people.

It takes about four to six weeks for hair to recover from chemotherapy. In general, expect about a quarter inch (cont. on pg 19)

6 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

PROGRAM HAIR AT 18 UNITS PER YEAR: CAN 24 BE FAR BEHIND? New York, 05/07 - By now, most hair replacement studios have adopted the practice of selling “program hair”. But few have embraced it in a bigger way than Joe and Peter Lore of Guci Image in Paramus, N.J. Not only is almost every one of their male clients enrolled in a program, a large percentage of them are in a 12 unit per year contract. But thinking that you can’t get too much of a good thing, Guci

vain than men. I don’t think it’s a luxury, I think it’s a need.”

“What program hair has done, it’s made life easier for both the customer and the company. What it’s done is taken the thought process out of ‘should I be getting a new system, should I not be getting a new system’,” according to Joe. “Program hair forces them to look good.”

“What it’s done for us as a business is it

Peter and Joe Lore of Guci Image in Paramus, N.J.

Image now has several clients on 18 units a year programs. And the number is growing.

“And if we’re doing 18 units a month now, why not 24 a month?” queried Joe Lore. He laughed when he said it, but he quickly added that he’s not kidding.

He added, “Well, we have clients on 18 systems a year. Not too long ago I thought that 12 was fine, but 18 is next, and now here we are. Can 24 be far behind?”

Thinking beyond the ordinary is what drives Guci Image. Both Joe and Peter

changes the sale. Instead of selling a guy 12 times a year, I only have to sell the guy once.”

But more than increasing efficiency alone, the total dedication to program selling has also reduced costs. “When we bought into this studio, there were two ventilators. Now we have no ventilators,” according to Peter Lore.

“There’s no need.”

Perhaps their very pointed, unequivocal views on the business are the basis of the two brothers’ backgrounds. Peter was in the computer business for 25 years as an IT consultant. Joe was a trad-

Staff members (from L to R) Vinnie, Elizabeth, Shirin, Lydia, Judy, Tara, Tina, Dotty and Rob

stress that Guci Image’s mission is to be a “leader/innovator”. And both are quick to add that taking that position involves inherent risks.

“If you come here and want to wear what we wear, program hair is virtually mandatory, because there’s no durability in anything, there’s really no other way to do it” says Joe, stating the studio’s nononsense attitude towards the subject.

“You can do it without a program, but it would cost a tremendous amount of money.”

er who dabbled in the hair replacement business part time. He went into it full time with the purchase of Guci Cosmetic Image in 1999 and Peter joined soon after. To realize additional growth, they combined Guci Image with an additional purchase, MHN of New Jersey in 2005.

And what about their women’s business, which makes up about 40% of the shop’s mix? “Ninety percent of the women here are on a program”, says Peter.

According to Peter, Guci’s aggressive nature, and success, is due to a management approach that is completely agnostic to the hair business: “I treat this as a business. Whether we’re selling widgets or whatever we’re selling, if you have the right systems operations in place, the right personnel, the right sales presentation, then you’re going to be successful.”

“I don’t like to do sales without programs, says Joe. Especially with women, because they’re so much more

With 24 units a year program selling in sight, it’s hard to argue with Peter’s assessment.

NHJ

7 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Fabulous Hair Replacement Don’t let the name fool you … professional salon extensions aren’t just for length and volume!

By Mark Pedersen

When most hair replacement specialists think of hair extensions, we usually think of salons adding superficial length to their client’s hair. From short to long in a matter of a few hours, professional salon hair

extensions can quickly transform any client’s hairstyle quickly and easily. But, it doesn’t end there! Today’s hair extensions provide incredible new versatility for our special clients challenged by thin and thinning hair. The best part about hair extensions as a hair replacement option is that they are a very fashionable and functional way to safely fight the effects of aging, alopecia or naturally thin hair without the use of wigs, surgery or topical hair solutions. Hair extensions not only build beautiful new volume — they will also provide your clients with endless hairstyle options including variations in haircolor, highlights, texture and of course, length. The possibilities are truly endless! Below, we explore two options that extensions can offer our more fashion forward clients, in addition to building volume.

Haircolor - Hair extensions are a great way for hair extensionists to add a touch of Kathy Williams of haircolor.

SO.CAP.USA Hair Extensions MidAtlantic, one of the leading hair extension companies in the world, says, “Today, professional salon hair extensions are a terrific way for our clients to figure out what they like before committing to a full-scale hair makeover. By adding different color extensions throughout their hair, our clients can experiment with many creative new haircolor options and hairstyles.”

What To Do - Williams suggests, “Add a

PAI Medical Group 2007 US Marketing & Sales Meeting Chicago - 2/07 President and founder of PAI Medical Group, Pierre Amelotte, welcomed owners and managers of the US-based PAI Clinics with an overview of trends and challenges in the hair restoration industry. Guest, motivational speaker for the morning

few pieces throughout their hair in a color or two lighter for that subtle highlighted effect. Add sexy lowlights, using an assortment of darker haircolor shades to give their hair more depth and personality.

For the ultimate in multi-dimensional haircolor, combine both lowlights and highlights to create a unique look that suits your client’s unique style.”

If you’re up for it, hair extensions can also be cut and styled to match your client’s existing haircut, easily blending in the new haircolor. “Having real human hair extensions means your clients can treat the hair much like their own.” says Kathy Williams. Most extension companies offer several dozen different hair colors, making it easy to create any desired look.

For example, SO.CAP.USA Hair Extensions offer 81 professional hair extension haircolor options, the most available from any company on the market today, ensuring a perfect match.

Furthermore, you and your clients will be able to safely achieve colorful results without using harsh haircolor chemicals on their own fragile hair!

Texture - For many women with certain types of hair, some hairstyles are simply not achievable with traditional salon services. Yet textured extensions create endless possibilities! For many of our clients, they have been stuck with the same hair all of their lives, unable to make drastic changes to their texture. For some, extensions are essentially the only effective way to change their texture! Many prominent hair extension companies offer their product in different textures, allowing the technician to find a close match. Williams of SO.CAP.USA Hair Extensions notes that they currently offer all of their colors in three different hair textures - straight, wavy and curly. They will also soon be releasing their new line of Yaki Hair.

What To Do - Ron Cardillo, the president of SO.CAP. USA Hair Extensions and experienced hair replacement expert notes, “Add sexy cascading waves to your client’s dull look with subtle highlights woven in. Or, you can electrify their look by adding a few selectively positioned ringlets to their straight hair. Unlike perms and other texturizing services, which need to grow out or be removed with further chemical processes, hair extensions are not chemically damaging yet the results are stunning!”

Cardillo adds, “Don’t forget to aggressively market your professional salon hair extensions as a viable option for your male clients. You should develop a complete hair extension marketing, advertising and media relations campaign, to target women, men and teens.”

It’s time to get creative with your hair replacement and hair extension techniques.

If you have begun offering hair extensions as a hair replacement option, why not add some artistic flair with these tips! Even if you are not a hairstylist, use your observations and see what the professionals are doing with haircolor and texture. Some simple techniques can make the difference between a happy client and fabulous client!

was Vince Lombardi, Jr. New tools for growth at PAI were unveiled including an infomercial, TV commercials, digital signage for all PAI clinics, plus a comprehensive suite of newspaper, billboard ads and direct mail. Other upgrades and innovations include their web site with a cool feature - a picture gallery “before and after slider tool” (check out www.paihair.com); and the new Continuité Now product line for women.

8 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007 nothing else from this article, in fact, if you have gained nothing else from anything I’ve written over the past several years, this one piece of advice will more than pay for the time you’ve spent reading my column: Men and women’s hair replacement cannot in any way or form be successfully advertised together. There are two reasons for this. The first has to do with media.

Today, many hair replacement studio owners are choosing sides in how to spend their promotional dollars: should I advertise for men’s hair replacement business or women’s? Of late, more and more studio owners are coming down on the distaff side, choosing women as better prospects for their ad dollars.

There are very few media vehicles that have an audience that is evenly split between men and women. Most vehicles tend to skew one way on the other, usually for purposes of audience segmentation.

Steven DiManni

THE

BATTLE

OF

THE

SEXES

By Steven DiManni

There’s a war of sorts raging on in the hair replacement industry right now, a classic if there ever was: man versus woman. Yes, the “sweet mismatching of cat and cur”, as the song says, but in a far different sense.

Well, who’s to say it’s not a good strategy, given the fact that the men’s hair replacement business has dropped off in the past few years, and the women’s business has taken off? Yet, the sudden emergence of women’s hair replacement efforts in newspapers and television could also foreshadow a down side; or at the very least, a caution flag in the near future to nearly every studio owner.

As well, neglect of the men’s hair business in order to concentrate on women could also give reason for concern. Plenty of them.

These are major issues facing today’s studio owner, and it’s high time they were addressed.

First, it’s “or”, not “and” I’m sure some of you are thinking that the solution to the problem of “do I advertise men’s or women’s hair replacement?” is to do both in the same ad or commercial. Believe me, if you gain

So the question then becomes, where can you run an ad or commercial that draws a dual audience? Well, there are some prime time programs on the major networks that come close to a 50/50 split between men and women viewers. Programs such as American Idol, The Apprentice, and specials such as The Academy Awards, generally appeal to men and women equally. In newspapers, the "A" section generally has equal appeal, particularly the first seven to nine pages. But these type of programs, and that type of position in a newspaper, tend to be prohibitively expensive.

The fact is that most hair replacement studios tend to run their commercials in less expensive day parts, such as late night, or early or late fringe. The studio then has to make a choice if it’s running a commercial that is made to appeal to both women and men: do we run on programs that favor women or men? No matter which you choose, it's a lose-lose proposition. Half of your commercial, whether it's the portion that target men or women, will be wasted on an audience that largely only includes men or women. In effect, whatever you're paying for that commercial time will be double, since you're only reaching half the audience to which the commercial is dedicated.

It's bad enough that a studio that runs a commercial featuring both men and women will have to essentially buy twice the amount of time if the commercial only targeted one gender, but there's an even greater problem.

Men are not women; women are not men If you think that not being able to buy women and men equally from a media standpoint is the

biggest problem to running commercials that include both sexes, you've only scratched the surface of the issue. The bigger problem is one of product perception.

If a man sees a commercial for hair replacement that includes women, he immediately thinks "wig". Because men associate women's hair replacement with wigs. Conversely, if a woman sees a hair replacement commercial that also includes men, she thinks toupee or hair system. Because that's what women associate men's hair replacement with.

No man wants to wear a wig. So if he sees women in a commercial promoting hair replacement, it's not illogical for him to think, "oh, they're selling wigs for women, I guess they're selling wigs, or maybe toupees for men.

No thanks."

Women, of course, believe they have different needs than men, not an unreasonable assertion.

So if they see men in a hair replacement commercial, it's not unrealistic for them to think "oh, this is a company that sells toupees for men; that's not for me."

My sources who have information on the lead data generated by commercials that jointly show men and women all tell the same story: they get more women respondents than men, far more, but at a very high cost. Based on anecdotal evidence, the conclusion is that commercials that feature both men and women garner almost no male leads and very, very expensive female leads.

Heretofore, very little advertising for women's hair replacement solutions existed. Most women who were losing their hair were not aware that there were solutions that existed beyond machine-made wig or scarves. So as was the case with the men's market, there is “pent-up demand" for women's hair replacement. This is the so-called "cream of the crop" or "lay down leads".

But as was the case with men, this "cream", these buyers who are just itching to give you their money, won't last forever. The more commercials and ads that you and your competitors run, the more likely these women are to respond to them and thus, be taken out of the market as new, first-time clients.

So, as was the case with the men's market, studios will have to dig down deeper to find women who are indeed, bona-fide candidates for hair replacement, but not as eager or willing to lay down their money to have it done.

There's nothing new or surprising about this...all markets mature as they; go through their various cycles. Right now, the women's market is at its initial or "introductory" cycle, poised on going into the second or "growth" cycle that is the paradigm for new product introductions. However, it's during this growth cycle that turbulence occurs for many advertisers and providers.

Be afraid of women The temptation, as I stated at the beginning of this article, is for studio owners to dedicate their advertising budget to the women's market.

In and of itself, this is a pretty good idea, considering that the women's market, again as earlier stated, is gathering momentum at the same time that the men's market is seeing fewer and fewer respondents (more on this later).

Growth mean competition Yours is not the only studio that recognizes the opportunity that women represent. Again, as was the case with the men's business, studios see other studios advertising and believe that they've got to get in on this burgeoning market.

So instead of having just one studio advertising, you have two or three. And even in markets where there is only one studio advertising its services, that studio's advertising is going to have to work harder and dig down deeper to motivate women who are not "lay down" sales to come in for a consultation.

However, as more and more studios target women for hair replacement, the women's market is bound to see profound changes. The women's market is not unlike the men's market back in the mid 1980s.

This takes us back to the earlier section "Men are not women; women are not men". Women have different sensibilities and needs than men, as well as a different way of processing infor(continued on page 19) mation.

9 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

A

CH NGE WITHOUT FEAR When it comes to change, the only strategy that makes sense is to adopt. The hair replacement market is frequently challenged by new technologies. Those who seek to prevail react swiftly, stay one step ahead and profit from the change.

Surf Side Laser Inc. isn’t just another hair replacement company - our marketing efficiency and clear vision can provide your company with the opportunity to get a share of the wealth-produicing Laser Light Hair Therapy market - and diversify your business.

With over twenty years experience in the hair industry, we carry the ability to define a winning position to your company, and can help secure that advantage through integrated business strategies such as on-site education and superior client support.

Leading the charge for change… to exclusive salons and spas throughout the world. To discover which Surf Side Laser Inc. product is best for you, please call now 1-877-494HAIR (4247)

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www.surfsidelaser.com

Copyright © 2007 Surf Side Laser Inc. and its licensors. All rights reserved.

10 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Hair Society News Hello from your Society Coordinator Since the beginning of this year when I took over more responsibilities for the Society, I have Heather Simon had the privilege of meeting several of our Society members at the IHI Conference in Orlando, FL and our Laser Technology Expo that we hosted in April in San Diego, CA. I hope to meet more Society members in person this year. Speaking with everyone over the phone is great but it is much better to meet face to face. I’ve had a lot of fun so far this year, and I will make sure that the Society continues to host more expos and give members more networking opportunities so you can continue learning about new technologies in the hair replacement industry. The Society continues to grow and, as you can see, it now has two pages in The Journal because there’s so much to report on. I want to make sure that we include pictures of members networking and having fun, so please read on for updates and browse through the photos.

Society Renewals - I would like to thank the Society members who have renewed this year. I want to make sure that you know the benefits and opportunities that you receive as part of this unique group. If you would like more information on how to use your membership, contact me at 951-571-3209.

The Society offers great networking opportunities and discounts to products.

There is a lot of information available, so please take advantage of your membership. Being proactive is important. I know everyone is extremely busy; including myself but the Society is very beneficial if you use it.

Wanted: News About You And Your Business - One way to take advantage of your Society membership is to send me photos of your salon or studio and a couple of paragraphs about your business. I’d like to eventually feature each Society member and their business on these pages. This is free exposure - The National Hair Journal is circulated to 4,500 readers, so why not take advantage and let other people read about your success. I try and visit Society

members in our area, but that doesn’t mean that I won’t get to visit your locale at some point. In the meantime, contact me for further details about submitting your information so your business can be featured on the Society pages of the Journal.

Not Yet A Society Member? What are you waiting for? There are great discounts and networking opportunities available. As you can see from these pages, this is a great group to belong to.

The Society provides ethical and professional information to its members. The recent Laser Technology Expo offered special discounts to Society members and provided the latest developments in the laser industry. The Society keeps its members up to date on what’s new in the industry and many of our members are leaders themselves and share their knowledge with other members. This is a fun group of people, so don’t miss out on the opportunity of becoming a member. I can be reached at 951-571-3209 for further details about joining.

Society Newsletter - I have tried to be consistent in getting out the monthly newsletters. I try to fill everyone in on the latest developments in the current month until the Journal is sent to you. I would like to feature every Society member in the newsletter as well, so if you have not seen yourself in the newsletters this year, please submit something about a recent media event, award, or a helpful tip that would be beneficial to other members. Please submit the information to me via e-mail at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com or contact me directly at 951-571-3209.

Society members instruct at the CyberWorld 2007 conference in Orlando, FL I was able to attend the CyberWorld Conference this year in Orlando, FL and I wanted to include some of the highlights of the event in which our Society members participated and received

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Say Hello to Our Latest Retail Society Members

Frank Barrett

Sharon Mason

Suzanne Quinn

James Ellison

Lisa Zimmerman

Dee Mitchell

Vicki Burchfield

Existing Society Members’ Recently Submitted Photos New Members Not Pictured: Ginny Rapini, Dr. Gregory Shannon, Jean Williams, Carl Walters, Frank Prasek, Marisol and Jose Arroyo, Patricia Militello, Brian Ivie, Jacob Bishop.

Daniel Brummel

Judy & Daryl Grecian

awards. It was great to finally meet some of the members face to face.

Monique Smith - from Monique’s in Spokane, WA was an instructor at the event and gave her expertise on the Hair Support system from IHI. She uses the Hair Support system in her salon for a healthy scalp environment for her clients.

She recommends using the HairMax LaserComb along with IHI’s Hair Support system. Monique will be submitting articles quarterly to The National H a i r Journal, so please look for her articles because she has a lot of great information that you will be able to use. She is a great instructor and an expert in what she does in the hair replacement industry.

have protection plus and to never blow dry Cyberhair completely dry. Once the fibers show a natural flow, he suggests to stop blow drying the Cyberhair.

Always use a 45 degree angle to but Cyberhair. Everyone was very attentive to Michael’s instruction.

Jeffrey Paul - from Jeffrey Paul Salon in Cleveland, OH was at CyberWorld to present dynamics of a successful women’s consultation. He taught the Cyberhair dealers how to

Michael Diebold - from Paragon Alternative Design, Inc in Alberta, Canada was also an instructor at the event. He instructed Cyberhair dealers on finish styling techniques for women’s full cap wigs and base alternatives for Amy’s Presence full cap wigs.

He demonstrated haircutting issues with tension, over direction, and elevation.

He stated that Cyberhair should always

use a personal profile to determine the most appropriate solutions for women. He also presented a marketing strategy in order to draw in the best Candidates for businesses from all stages of hair loss.

11 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Society Members Receive Awards at CyberWorld 2007

Charlene Blacer Janet Miller & Amy Gibson

Michael Diebold

James Ellison

My Road Trip to San Francisco, CA This past month I had the chance to visit some of our dedicated Society members up in San Francisco, CA. They informed me about their base clientele and what has been successful for them throughout the years in the hair replacement industry.

Hansen Fontana

Katie Haas & Carl Walters Laurie Nash

Sharon Mason

Emily Miller

Katie Haas, Jeffrey Paul & Darla Smith

Katie Haas, Monique Smith & Darla Smith

Peter Gensler, Katie Haas, Ray Schneider & Darla Smith

Other Faces from CyberWorld 2007

located at 536 Bryant Street in San Francisco is owned by Tom and Kim Norman. I was able to spend some time speaking with them about the successes of their hair replacement business. Arnold is one of their main assistants at their studio. Tom informed me that they have been at the 536 Bryant location for 16 years. It is a convenient location for clients to get to. The salon has an accessible parking garage located next to it.

Their clientele consists of 50 percent women and 50 percent men. They service an older clientele that have been coming to their studio for years. They get a lot of business from referrals. In fact, one of their clients is a dermatologist and he refers his patients to see Tom and Kim for hair replacement needs.

Tom and K i m h a v e been in the hair replacement business for 39 years.

Tom gave me a tour of their salon. They have a very nice front lobby and the salon consists of other rooms which have been painted by a local artist in the area. The clients can choose between different rooms, such as the cloud or bird room. The atmosphere of the rooms makes the clients feel at ease, especially if it is the first time they are having a hair system fitted. Their studio also offers skin care treatments, such as microdermabrasions and facials.

When you visit Hansen Fontana, you will get the opportunity to meet with Titus. He is there to meet and greet the clients. He has been around for many years and he comes to work every day even when he has 88 in human years.

Curt Miller and Tania

Jeffrey Paul and Group

I would invite you to learn more about Hansen Fontana by visiting their website at www.hansenfontana.com. I would like to thank Tom and Kim for their hospitality.

Peggy Tom and Associates Dee Mitchell and Group

Janet Miller and Raquel

Monique Smith and Assistant

Darla Smith and Sharon

Laurie Nash and Assistant

is located right near Market Street in downtown San Francisco at 323 Geary Street # 716. As soon as I walked in to Peggy’s studio Juan, Peggy’s assistant, was busy assisting clients inquiring about the X-Fusion products and setting up a consultation to speak with P e g g y about laser hair therapy. Peggy carries the HairMax L a s e r Comb and has a stand in laser in her salon.

Peggy keeps up to date with all of the latest hair replacement options. As most of you know, she is at all the shows and is a very dedicated and professional lady who knows what is best for her clients. She likes to work with quality products and she knows what works and what doesn’t. While I was visiting, Peggy she was using Hairlocs extensions on one of her clients. A regular gentleman client of Peggy Tom’s came in for his weekly laser treatment while I was there as well. (cont. on pg. 18)

12 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Revealed at Last!

do. That’s not to say it’s cheap or simple but it does take patience. I always tell people, “C’mon. How can you expect to get to the top cheaply and quickly when

It is easier said than done to create a website that brings you business! It’s a full-time job, where things seem easy at first, but as soon as you start to explore the possibilities and appreciate the complexities at hand, it start taking up an ever-increasing amount of your time. Ask Michael Garcia, for he was the best kept secret in the hair industry while operating the elaborate online marketing at Farrell Hair. And now he wants to share his Online Marketing Secrets.

NHJ: After 8 years of making Farrell the most highly exposed hair replacement company on the Internet, you left. Why? MG: For me it’s more about the journey than the destination. When I began, Farrell operated one salon. Now they’re recognized internationally. What excited me wasn’t arriving at the top as much as the challenge of getting there. I want go back to helping the smaller companies.

NHJ: You’re offering solutions from CRM to Sales Training. What is the most important and valuable marketing solution offered by your consultancy?

MG: Definitely “SEO” or Search Engine Optimization which means we design or modify websites so that the search engines like Google will better read the website and place it high in the rankings under the terms people are searching for online like “hair replacement”. Being at the top of the search engines means everything in terms of successful marketing.

Nowadays people go to Google instead of to the phone book and that trend is going to continue.

NHJ: Is it very costly to get ranked high in the search engines?

MG: No, not when you consider the financial rewards that comes with reaching to top. Even so, developing an effective website and having it exposed to the people searching for you is essential. It’s something that people can’t afford not to

Michael Garcia the financial rewards for getting there are so big and there is so much competition?”

NHJ: You’ve operated in the shadows of the industry for years. Are you ready for this level of exposure?

MG: I am ready. My work and abilities are well known and I still meet people who want to ring my neck for Farrell’s aggressive marketing. Like, “You’re the guy who put Richard’s face everywhere?

I want to ring your neck, but first, where do I sign up?” I have a good relationship with the AHLC and can’t wait to work with their membership. I have a high level of confidence in what I can offer salons and clinics. I’ve been doing this for so long, I’m at the very top of my game and I understand this industry and client base intimately.

NHJ: Any advice for those of us who are still troubled by the Internet?

MG: Yes. Don’t be afraid of the Internet.

It can be your friend. It’s a powerful communication tool that has changed the way we market and sell. It is up to individual businesses to step up and take advantage of the Internet to improve marketing and sales. Don’t see it as something that just allows other people to prosper. It’s for you and is there for the taking. Grab it NHJ with both hands.

Ross Launches New Hair Care Products Ross, a family owned business in Quebec, launched a hair and scalp therapy regimen which is the result of over 40 years of research and development. A three generation family enterprise, Ross has been active in the hair loss sector since 1942.

The founder, Louis-Marie Ross, is one of six brothers, who all suffered hair loss and was personally motivated to find solutions to maintain his own hair. A graduate in aesthetic biochemistry from Paris, France, Louis-Marie Ross and his company were originally involved only in hair styling, but now they offer a complete range of hair care products and services.

The success of Ross products attracted the attention of Pierre Amelotte, President and Founder of PAI Medical Group, and a relationship was forged between Ross and PAI for research and development of products for hair maintenance and hair management issues. The PAI/Ross business relationship has lasted for 20 years and continues to grow.

The basic premise behind the Ross prod-

ucts is a regimen based on detailed analysis and a follow-up program which can be used by clients in programs that include maintaining existing hair, using hair systems or undergoing hair transplants.

New Ross products such as the Continuité Kits are specifically formulated for women and contain three components, shampoo, conditioner and serum for the promotion of good hair hygiene habits. The acid pH Shampoos have anti-dandruff properties, reinforced by lipoproteins and aromatic substances. Ingredients such as shale & cade oils, eucalyptus, vitamins, cereal sprouts and organic sulphur are used for their specific effects on a particular hair-scalp problem, and treatment is personalized and adapted to individual needs. Based on plant complexes many Ross products are low-lather and unperfumed.

Louis-Marie Ross is still active today in the company he founded and which now has 30 centers in Quebec, Canada and the United States. His daughter Christine carries on the NHJ family tradition in the business.

14 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

The National Hair Journal PROMOTING

Medical Section

COOPERATION BETWEEN THE ARTISTRY OF HAIR REPLACEMENT AND THE SCIENCE OF HAIR RESTORATION

UNDERSTANDING HAIR DAMAGE

By Dr. John Gray Dr. John Gray is the Director of the Oxford Hair Foundation, one of the leading Hair Research Institutes in the world. The Oxford Hair Foundation is an independent hair institute forged by a partnership between Oxford Dermatology and Procter & Gamble Hair Care. It has the mission of supporting excellence, education and innovation in hair science.

Hair in good condition: In the end, the condition of hair depends on what is done to it. By the time your hair reaches your shoulders, it has probably been growing for three years or more. Hair that is level with your waist is around five years old (at least at the tip). If you are lucky enough to have hair long enough to sit on, that hair maybe as much as a dozen years old. And throughout its growth it needs to be cared for to keep its healthy look. A damaged cuticle cannot heal, because the scales are ‘dead’, although much can be done to help its appearance.

If you are sensible, you clean your hair frequently, using good-quality products, and most importantly - remember to condition it well. You have the ends cut regularly by a skilled stylist; so as to prevent weathering effects such as split ends. If you are thinking of changing your hair color you get advice first from an experienced hair technician, who can tell you how much color change your particular hair can stand, and which hair coloring products would be suitable.

the hair can eventually break. Fortunately, hair is tough by nature: hairs taken from ancient Egyptian mummies and even from the bodies of our Stone Age ancestors look remarkably well preserved after thousands

With an understanding of the principles of good hair care, and regularly putting those principles into practice, everyone can aim to keep their hair in good condition.

Hair in poor condition: The natural look of your hair depends on several inherited factors. Hair that is in poor condition looks dull and dry. So how does it get that way? Dark hair looks glossier than blond hair. The presence or absence of natural oils makes a difference. And very straight hair reflects light better than tousled hair does. Some of us, however, fall into the trap of trying to improve upon nature, not just once but over and over again.

Where you can go wrong includes: * Not understanding the basic properties of hair in general, and your own hair in particular * trying to lighten the color of your hair more than it can stand (bleach damage) * Continually trying to correct previous mistakes Hair damage: It is all too easy to fall into the trap of blaming the last product put on to the hair as the single cause of a problem.

Much more often, hair condition is lost as a result of a combination of mis-treatments over a long period.

Damage from weathering: Weathering is the gradual wearing away of the cuticle of the hair shaft. The damage exposes the cortex, which becomes worn down as well, and

The photograph bellow shows what a new hair looks like under the electron microscope. It shows the regular layers of cuticle scales overlying the cortex in long, smooth curves.

Electron photo of normal hair

of years. But in spite of this resilience, badly weathered hair is quite common. All too often it results in disappointment and an unhappy client for the stylist and the technician to sort out. But whatever their expertise, repeated attempts to restore the hair to good condition may be doomed to failure.

All hair has its limit: once that limit is passed and the hair has seriously broken down, the only thing to be done is to cut it off.

When new hair first grows up out of the scalp, the cuticle consists of up to ten layers of long ‘scales’. Even so, it is incredibly thin - only 3 or 4 µm - and it has to last for may be six years or more. As the hair grows, layers are worn away, it is natural and has little effect on the hair. But it is very much speeded up by some of the things that happen to the hair. These can include wetting, friction, sunlight, heat from hair dryers or the sun, chemicals in swimming pools and salt in seawater, as well as cosmetic procedures of various kinds.

The next photograph shows some more serious harm. Large areas of the cuticle have split away, showing the cortex underneath.

This is how the classic ‘split end’ starts,

with a crack beginning to run back up the hair shaft. If the problem is really severe, the cortex bursts right out of the hair.

In normal hair, this sort of damage is only noticeable near the tips of untrimmed long hair with some split ends. The length of time

15 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

for which hair can grow without the damage becoming visible depends on the natural quality of the hair, how frequently it is damaged, and how much on-going protection has been given to it by conditioning.

breaks up some of the chemical links within the amino acid groups, in particular those between carbon atoms and sulphur atoms. It does not affect disulphide linkages or hydrogen bonds.

The reason why conditioning is so important in slowing down natural weathering lies in the ability of the cortex to retain moisture. Dry, out-of-condition hair lacks moisture, and the correct moisture content (hydration) of hair has to be restored for the hair to regain its condition and its ‘healthy’ look. Without enough moisture the number of hydrogen bonds may be reduced. Conditioning allows re-establishment of the hydrogen bonds and improves the moisture content of the hair by improving the weatherproofing of the cuticle. This determines the amount of static charge on the hair and the resistance of hair to mechanical stresses like brushing and combing.

Mechanical damage: Though hair is so robust, it can still be damaged by overenthusiastic brushing and combing, especially when it is wet and if there is some degree of tangling. Metal combs are particularly hard on the hair. Back brushing and backcombing are extremely harmful, since they tug against the scales of the cuticle, which all lie pointing towards the tip of the shaft like tiles on a roof. Once hair has been backcombed the delicate scales are lifted. The next time a comb passes over the scales they will be ripped off. There is no way to repair this. Backcombing is one of the most damaging physical treatments that can be inflicted on hair.

Damage from hair cutting, styling and shampooing: Cutting hair with blunt scissors results in a cut with a long, jagged edge, the cuticle scales will be especially vulnerable to further damage. Stylists use good-quality steel scissors, which are very sharp and cut cleanly. It is possible to tell whether a stylist chose to use scissors or a razor by looking at the record of the hair: razor cutting produces long, tapering sections of cuticle which weather quickly, and even peel back. Some stylists prefer to cut hair when it is dry, in the belief that this will save the hair from heavy brushing when it is damp and therefore vulnerable to damage. A circular or semicircular brush is probably the least damaging to hair.

Shampooing should not in itself damage the hair, since modern shampoos do not lift the cuticle. In the past, when harsh shampoos were often used, acute and irreversible tangling or matting sometimes followed shampooing. This kind of matting is seldom seen nowadays, fortunately, since most modern shampoos contain conditioning agents and protect hair. Small amounts of tangling and occasionally matting are still quite common however in long weathered hair. It may be the result of wetting and drying hair without shampoo, since friction is higher in wet hair than in dry.

Of the common cosmetic procedures, permanent waving, bleaching and dyeing all damage the hair to some extent by disrupting the structure of the hair. In order to change the shape of the hair, agents first break the disulphide bonds that give the hair shaft its structure. The hair is then put into its new shape and ‘neutralized’.

Neutralization is the name given to the reforming of the chemical bonds in their new positions, a process that fixes the hair permanently into its new shape. The secrets of satisfactory processing lies in the manufacturer’s formulation of the product and the stylist’s expertise in applying the neutralizing lotion after just the right length of time, so the hair is damaged as little as possible.

Bleaching and dyeing change hair structure too, because the dyes and the bleaches used have to penetrate the cuticle and get into the cortex where they have their effect.

Some degree of chemical damage is unavoidable. However, cosmetic procedures do not damage the hair follicle within the scalp, and so do not cause hair loss.

Only a serious chemical burn to the skin of the scalp that destroys the follicle cells can do so. Burns like this can follow indiscriminate over-use of permanent waving or relaxing solutions, and therefore these solutions must be handled carefully at all times.

Damage from the sun: The ultraviolet light in direct sunlight affects the cuticle in a similar way to bleach, and eventually the keratin protein of the hair breaks down.

The result is than the hair is gradually weakened and becomes drier. The effect shows up as light streaks in the hair (sun bleaching). The reason is that sunlight

Heat damage: We have seen the importance of the moisture content of hair to the hair’s condition. Processes like blow drying reduce the moisture content below its normal level and can in themselves be harmful. Hair dryers and other heated appliances first soften the keratin of the hair. If they are too hot, they can actually cause the water in the hair to boil, and tiny bubbles of

steam then form inside the softened hair shaft. The hair is thereby weakened, and may break altogether. This causes the condition of ‘bubble hair’. There is no treatment for seriously heat-damaged hair, although trimming the damaged hair can reduce the formation of split ends.

Minimizing damage: Once significantly damaged, the cuticle cannot be repaired. So hair care must be aimed at preventing injury in the first place. Obviously, all procedures should therefore be carried out as gently as possible. Apart from this, the best way to keep damage to a minimum is to condition regularly and thoroughly. This helps to keep the cuticle intact, lower friction and reduce static charge on the hair.

Conditioners that contain dimethicone (a silicone compound, made from silica which is one of the commonest substances on earth) deposit mainly at the edges of the cuticle scales - just where the damage happens most easily. Micro-fine droplets make the hair surface smooth and shiny (less ‘fly-away’). Dimethicone protects the hair from damage by reducing its resistance to brushing, combing and styling, when wet as well as when dry. Other ingredients in conditioners and hair care preparations also work to smooth the outer layers of the

cuticle. These may include protein extracts (collagen, and the amino acids obtained from silk) and panthenol and similar compounds, which are related to vitamin B5.

Some of these are known to penetrate hair and to help to increase its moisture content.

Well-conditioned hair is quite easy to detangle. Use a large-toothed comb or brush with rounded ends.

The only way to avoid split ends altogether is to use preventive conditioning and to avoid all chemical treatments. Split ends, if they do develop, can never be repaired ‘like new’. The so-called ‘split end repair fluids’ are applied directly to the hair tips. They contain high-density silicone fluids which draw the splayed ends of the fibers together and hide their ragged appearance; the fluid is removed at the next shampoo, however.

When a new client walks into a salon, the hairdresser never knows what problems are going to face them. No two clients are the same. Life in a salon is never dull!

This has been printed with permission from The World of Hair, by Dr. John Gray, provided by the P&G Hair Care Research Center. For more beauty science, please visit www.pgbeautyscience.com

16 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Wanted by Michael Garcia & Associates

COMPANIES WITH COMMITMENT TO GROW This is a critical period of confusion and transition in the hair management industry. You may not be aware, but this industry is in the midst of a second stage change and the old ways are being rightfully challenged. In my experience there are two types of companies: those who still operate within their historic boundaries business as usual, and those who are dismantling the existing ‘mind set’ and go beyond - with commitment to grow.

Alternative Future - Internet.

I have coined Garcia’s Law, which states that “the most successful companies in the hair management business regardless of physical infrastructure, will attain a 5% increased market share from Internet traffic by December 2007.”

With my proven track record to plan, launch and measure Internet campaigns effectively and grow a relatively high ROI, the question isn’t whether to be online or not, but rather how to capitalize on The Power of Internet Marketing which is yours for the taking!

The Joy of Being Found.

Instead of having to identify prospects and write follow-up letters, all which takes time effort and money, in a reverse of fortunes, your prospects will find you. And because your prospect made the first contact, the conversation starts at a different level; they have a particular need, and have already determined that you might fill that need. Are you with me in the traffic? You should be!

To learn more about how to benefit from our Internet traffic management, Internet consulting and marketing services, e-mail with confidence for a FREE consultation to: info@mgandaconsulting.com or in the US call 1-888-420-4606 and 1-310-919-823 International.

The faster you learn the bigger you win. Contact me today!

Michael Garcia P.S. For your FREE website assesment valued at $395.00 visit www.mgandaconsulting.com

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Michael Garcia & Associates Internet Solutions Consulting

17 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

SKIN

t r e a t m e n t

FDA OKs New L’Oreal Sunscreen Anthelios SX Includes Ingredient Previously Not Marketed in U.S. There’s a new over-the-counter sunscreen on the market, and it includes an active ingredient that’s new to the U.S. Anthelios SX is the first sun filter approved by the FDA in 18 years and an exclusive L’Oreal technology, marketed by their La Roche-Posay division. The product prevents sunburn and protects against ultraviolet B (UVB) and ultraviolet A (UVA) rays, with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15.

Anthelios SX contains a mix of three active ingredients, one of which is ecamsule. Ecamsule has not been marketed in the United States, but it’s been marketed in Europe and Canada as Mexoryl SX since 1993. Mexoryl(tm) SX protects the skin by absorbing the energy of the sun’s short UVA rays.

Acting as a normal filter, itt becomes highly energized by absorbing the energy of a UV photon penetrating the skin, it deactivates and releases the absorbed energy to the environment as harmless energy, then repeats the process over and over.

The new sunscreen’s two other active ingredients are avobenzone and octocrylene. Those ingredients are “generally recognized as safe and effective,” says an FDA news release.

In 28 studies of Anthelios SX that included more than 2,500 patients, side effects were rare and mild.

The most common side effects in patients were acne, dermatitis, dry skin, eczema, abnormal redness, itching, skin discomfort, and sunburn, according to the FDA. “Sunscreens are an important part of total sun protection strategy as consumers arm themselves against the harmful sun rays,” says Steven Galson, M.D., MPH, in an FDA news release. Galson directs the FDA’s Center for Drug Evaluation and Research.

However, sunscreens aren’t the only way to curb skin damage from the sun.

“While this product provides protection from harmful UVA and UVB rays, the FDA continues to recommend that in addition to using a sunscreen, consumers protect themselves from sun exposure by limiting time in the sun and wearing protective clothing,” Galson says.

The sunscreen will be marketed by La RochePosay, suppliers of Thermal Spring Water, which has been in demand in Europe since the 17th century for its beneficial properties to those fighting the effects of aging. The water is said to contain high selenium content (53 ug per liter). Research is under way to show if selenium - a powerful trace mineral and antioxidant found in soil, water, and some foods - prevents agents called free radicals from damaging cells in the body and the skin.

These free radicals are created by normal body functions and environmental factors such as sunlight or smoke.

The European Thermal Dermatology Center was founded at La Roche-Posay and staffed by a team of dermatologists treating upwards of 10,000 people per year - 30 percent of whom are children. The thermal-spring-water is used for some of the most common dermatological conditions, including: acne, eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, scars, and burns.

The unique antioxidant properties of the water have a proven effect on skin cells subjected to UVA/UVB rays, and also provide anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant benefits. Seems a perfect match, what better division of L’Oreal to market this new sunscreen, now available online at www.anthelios.com.

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H E A LT H

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r e s t o r a t i o n

SUN: The Good, The Bad & The Do be Careful!

Many people will be hitting the beach this summer, you can have fun in the sun, but you should be aware of the dangers.

• One million people in the United States will be diagnosed with skin cancer this year • 90 percent of these skin cancers are caused by sun exposure • 80 percent of the signs we associate with aging is caused by sun damage • One American dies of melanoma almost every hour • Five or more sunburns double your risk of developing skin cancer • Less than 1/3 of people use daily sun protection.

People love sunshine, look after yourself – Here’s how: Limit sun exposure betweens the hours of 10 a.m.

to 2 p.m. when the burning rays of the sun are the strongest, especially on the first day in the sun after winter or when going to a tropical climate during a vacation.

Use a broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher. Some good choices include: Blue Lizard, Anthelios SX and Neutrogena’s Helioplex products. Make sure to put an adequate amount on. Most people only apply 1/4-1/2 of what is needed to get the SPF of the product. You need about an ounce of sunscreen.

Sunscreens should be applied to dry skin at least 15 minutes before going outdoors and should be reapplied after swimming or perspiring to be the most effective. Most sunscreens only protect marginally from UVA which is the longer wavelength

of sunlight which penetrates deeper in the skin and is constant from sun up to sundown all year long. Use products such as avobenzone, mexoryl, zinc oxide or titanium oxide containing products.

(See our article on Anthelios SX )

Wear a hat to protect your face, with a brim to protect the sides of the face as well. Always wear sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or more on your face every day, rain or shine, from the time you get up until the time you go to bed. The rays of the sun, which also damage the skin, are fairly constant from sun up to sun down and penetrate glass in your house or car.

If you burn easily, you may want to use oral antioxidants like Heliocare. It provides about an (continued on page 19) SPF of 38 on its own.

18 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

My Road Trip (cont. from pg. 11)

Society Members Network and Learn

He comes in for treatments about 2-3 times a week. In the meantime, Juan showed me the program which analyzes the client’s progress using the stand in laser treatments. The program is able to track the hair growth each time they come in for their weekly treatments so they can view the progress.

The Latest in Laser Hair Therapy at the Laser Technology Expo in San Diego, CA. If you were not able to attend The Laser Technology Expo, you missed out on a lot of great information and fun. It was a great event and the Society members that attended this event had a great time.

Have fun browsing through the photos.

Frank Barrett & Penny Moss

Mike Vozzelli Plays Sax

Mike Vozzelli at Dinner

Peggy has many rooms where she can service her clients. She also offers skin care treatments as well such as microdermabrasion and transdermal hair removal.

I would also like to thank Peggy and Juan for taking the time to visit with me and thank them for their hospitality. To learn more about Peggy Tom and Associates, please visit the website at www.peggytom.com.

Fran Nelmes & Suzanne Quinn

Bette Graff and Lucinda Beaty

Gene Pletzer, Mike Vozzelli, & Robbie Turcotte

I will be featuring more road trips in the fall edition of The National Hair Journal.

Your salon or studio could be next. For those Society members that I cannot visit locally right now, please send me photos of your salon or studio and a couple paragraphs about your business. As I stated earlier, I would like to profile each Society member’s business in the journal, so please e-mail me all the information and call me with any questions.

It’s Back to School for Bob Heather Simon and James Britt

Andrea Hayden with Joe and Patricia DeGennaro

Randi and Tom Magliaro & Dawn Harrison

Rene Meier Vicki Burchfield & Dr. Hale

Louticia Grier and Chris Webb

Lisa Zimmerman, Chris Webb & Gene Pletzer

New England, 5/07- Dr. Robert T. Leonard has been appointed to the University of New England’s Board of Trustees. UNE was recognized as one of the “Best Universities” in the North to offer “full range of undergraduate and master’s programs", by U.S. News & World Report.

The College of Osteopathic Medicine is known for educational excellence in primary care, geriatrics and osteopathic medicine.

Bob Leonard is the founder and chief surgeon at Leonard Hair Transplant Associates, with offices in Rhode Island and Massachusetts. Leonard currently serves as a board member of the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery and is one of its past presidents.

Hair Club’s Kurt Hudson took time off from his busy schedule overseeing filming in California to relax at dinner in Dana Point with Chris Webb, Publisher of NHJ. Watch out for the latest business developments and Hair Club announcements in the next issue.

19 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

LISTEN UP THE PUBLIC’S MOST TRUSTWORTHY INFORMATION SOURCE

SHE’S A SURVIVOR Meet HairlossNewsmakers contributor, up close and personal…

Marilyn Dodds knows a few things about life’s challenges.

The Scotts Valley, Calif., grandmother has battled cancer. She lost her career and her marriage. Now, she suffers from alopecia aerate – a condition that results in the total hair loss. It can be caused largely due to genetics, but can be triggered by other factors, including certain medications.

These past hardships helped strengthen her resolve. And along the way, she’s learned a thing or two about herself – things she thinks will help other women. Dodds was the keynote speaker, April 14 at the Gulf Coast Women’s Expo sponsored by the Pensacola News Journal and several other local companies. Dodds, a former model, once had a career that depended on her looks. After fighting off uterine cancer about 14 years ago, the mother of two grown children lost her hair for good. She also lost her husband when her marriage ended in divorce. But she found the inner strength to rise above her pain.

“My heart was broken,” she said. “I was given no choice when cancer became my reality and alopecia areata took over.” “I had to accept what was now a part of me, who I was, who I had become.” For a long time, she was lost – even avoiding her own image in the mirror. “I had no control over the loss of my hair, but I had to take control of how I perceived my loss and myself before anyone else could accept it,” Dodds added.

Now, a regular contributor to www.HairlossNewsmakers.com Internet Radio show and spokeswoman for Virtuesse, a national hair restoration company, Dodds said she’s comfortable with who she is and her image in the mirror. She says one thing to remember is that no two women have the same story. It’s how you tackle your problems that matters the most in the end.

“My message is going to be about a combination of things and just surviving life. We all need to have a solution, no matter what the path has brought us to now,” she said.

“Each story is wonderful, magnificent, but the goal is to find out who you are, and to regain control.” Dodds’ philosophy is an embodiment of the mission statement for the women’s expo of “total wellness,” said Patricia Anderson-Colip, operations and special projects manager for the Pensacola News Journal and project manager for the expo.

That’s one reason organizers asked the 64-year-old to speak at the two-day conference that attracted hundreds of area women. Dodds’ ordeal with cancer, her acceptance of the loss of her hair, and her ability to bounce back is a message of hope that is certain to resonate with women of all stripes, Anderson-Colip said.

Reprinted with permission of The Pensacola News Journal and Kate S. Peabody / kpeabody@pnj.com

SUN: The Good, The Bad & The Do Careful! (cont. from pg. 17) You can purchase it online and at some dermatologist offices. This helps maintain the skin’s ability to protect against sunrelated effects and aging. Use it in conjunction with topical sunscreen.

Sun protective clothing such as Solumbra and Coolibar products are excellent because they block 98 percent of UV Rays and have a UPF of 50+ (products can be purchased on line). The average Tshirt is only a UPF of 5-7 - not enough to protect kids swimming all day. Try SunSignals UV sensors that turn deep orange when it is time to reapply sunscreen.

Some makeup such as Colorscience and BareMinerals mineral skin products offer good protection. For the lips, the best protection again sun damage is a water- resistant lip balm that keeps lips moist and has an SPF of 15 percent or higher.

Some dermatologists recommend eating your way to protections. Foods such as green tea, red wine, spinach salads, guacamole and green beans contain antioxidants that help protect from free radicals. Antioxidants decrease the effect of sun exposure and help protect skin cells from cancer. The American Academy of Dermatology strongly recommends that everyone gets a yearly skin exam to be screened for the damaging effects of the sun.

NHJ

A Guide to Surviving Chemo (cont. from pg. 17)

hair and as hair begins to fall out it may not be as noticeable. Also, going from long hair to short may help the client prepare for a better transition to total hair loss. Longer hair has a more dramatic effect when it begins to fall out.

Help them plan in advance for a head covering, start thinking about wigs, scarves, or other creative cover-ups. The choice to wear a head covering to conceal hair loss is personal, but it’s easier to plan for it now, rather than later. In some cases health insurance might help cover the cost of a wig, so suggest the client opens a dialogue with any insurance providers. When clients are looking for head covers such as turbans, help them find something soft, comfortable and seamless. Seams can have a tendency to itch and scratch.

Watch out for certain materials such as wools, silks, and cashmeres that may stick or scratch sensitive areas on the scalp.

Any studio that specializes in hair loss should be prepared to answer common questions from a client such as, how long they have been in business, how experienced is the staff, is the staff passionate and understanding, do they have any community acknowledgements or recognitions? Check your own studio out - are your staff friendly?

During treatment, help them baby the remaining hair. Continue all the gentle hair strategies throughout treatment.

Suggest client uses a satin pillowcase, which is less likely to attract and catch fragile hair. Use soft brushes and wash the hair only as often as necessary. Stay away from shampoos with strong detergents and chemicals that can dry out the scalp, including salicylic acid, alcohol, and strong fragrances.

Some people report that their scalp hurts, itches, is very sensitive and irritated during their treatment and while their hair is falling out. Shaving the head can reduce the irritation and save the embarrassment of shedding. Also, a shaved head might be easier to secure the wig or hairpiece. But shaving the head is a huge, personal choice for any client. Protect the scalp.

Any head exposed to the sun or to cold air, needs protection with sunscreen or a head covering, and extreme cold or sunshine can easily irritate.

of hair growth each month after treatAfter treatment, continue gentle hair care. ment. There is no treatment able to guarThe new hair growth will be especially antee that hair won’t fall out during or fragile and vulnerable to the damage after chemotherapy. The caused by styling prodbest way for a person to ucts and heating devices. deal with impending hair Hold off on coloring or loss is to plan ahead with bleaching new hair for at the support of their hair least six months. Besides loss professional and damaging new hair, profocus on making themcessing could irritate the selves comfortable with sensitive scalp. their appearance before, during, and after the canBe patient. Tell your cer treatment. client it is possible their Monique Smith hair may come back slowly While hair loss generally and may not look exactly the same right can’t be prevented or controlled, it can be away. Remind them that it takes time for managed. Suggest the following steps to growth and repair to damage caused by your client throughout their treatment to the cancer treatment. Suggest they conminimize the frustration and anxiety sider hair loss shampoos or products, to associated with hair loss. create an optimal environment in which the hair can grow back.

Before chemo sessions, treat the hair gently. Do not bleach, perm, or color. Air dry In your role of a dedicated hair loss prohair as much as possible and avoid heatfessional you have just helped your client ing devices such as curling irons and hot through one of life’s most difficult trials, rollers. Strengthening the hair now may celebrate the small victories you share make it more likely to stay on the head a along the way. little longer during treatment. Suggest they use a friction free towel to help absorb moisture and keep down any stat- Monique Smith is owner operator of ic. Recommend a hair loss shampoo to Monique’s Salon, with locations in the keep the scalp environment healthy and Pacific Northwest - Spokane and Seattle, clean. Offer the option of a shorter style; Washington. For more information please short hair tends to look fuller than long visit www.moniquessalon.com NHJ

ABOUT US The National Hair Journal is part of The National Hair Group, a business consortium committed to the development of the hair-management industry. The National Hair Group provides information services via The National Hair Journal, a business newspaper. The National Hair Society is an educational, marketing and networking, professional support organization. The Group also provides consumer education via National Hair Broadcasting, a weekly broadcast show.

NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL Mission - To provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them make better business decisions and provide superior service to their patients and clients.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Managing Editor Penny Moss pmoss@nationalhairjournal.com

Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Contributing Correspondents Educational & Technical Isaac Brakha James Britt Bobbi Russell James Toscano Women & Fashion Marilyn Dodds Medical Alan Bauman MD Shelly Friedman DO

NATIONAL HAIR BROADCASTING Mission - To deliver reliable, objective information to men and women who are concerned about their hair loss and want an unbiased perspective on the choices available to them.

Division Director Penny Moss pmoss@nationalhairjournal.com

Production Director Mike Ferreri mike@mfaudio.net

Sound Engineer Dan Feely dan@danfeely.com

NATIONAL HAIR SOCIETY Mission - The Hair Society was created at the request of forward-looking hair-management specialists seeking educational and marketing support to grow their business. It connects manufacturers, distributors, retail salons and medical clinics and provides an ongoing network for crossmarketing and dialogue.

Membership Director Heather Simon hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com

NE Regional Director Catherine Ingoglia

CA Regional Director Edmarie Masters SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe to The National Hair Journal call 1-951-2564385 or send an Email to subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com. You can also write to us at the address at the bottom of this column.

Hair Journal subscription billing and renewals are managed by: Receivables Management Corporation PO Box 50650 Indianopolis, IN46250 Tel: 1-800-894-9031 Email: rwarren023@aol.com ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 1-951256-4385 LEGAL NOTICE Notice: The National Hair Journal, Issue number 40 Copyright ©2007. All rights reserved.

While great care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in The National Hair Journal, the publisher does not assume liability for decisions based upon it. Readers are advised to seek further independent advice. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or persons making the statements or claims. The publisher does not adopt any such statement or claim as its own, and any such statement or claim does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the publisher. The National Hair Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials. All materials in this issue are the property of this publication and nothing shown may be reproduced in any form without obtaining the permission of the publisher and/or any other persons or company who may have copyright ownership. Requests should be addressed to: Publisher, National Hair Journal, 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563.

HOW TO CONTACT US National Hair Group 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563.

Telephone: 951-541-2809 news@nationalhairjournal.com subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com advertising@nationalhairjournal.com events@nationalhairjournal.com

20 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Hair Society Hosts First Hair Loss Laser Expo

intended use and that it had demonstrated the ability to generate hair growth in the defined research sample.

In a subsequent session, Veliky cautioned guests against using the FDA clearance of the HairMax as a marketing device to promote other lasers or laser services. He emphasized out that it was up to each laser manufacturer to demonstrate its own products efficacy by conducting independent research. In a separate demonstration, Randy Veliky illustrated how the bristles of the laser separate the hair and allow the laser beam to shine directly on the scalp. Without the bristles, the light energy would be obstructed by strands of existing hair and only a small percentage of the laser light would penetrate the skin to produce meaningful benefits. The design of the plastic teeth or bristles, featured in the LaserComb design is patent protected and Lexington cautioned

The first ever laser workshop for hair loss professionals took place in San Diego in April. Top medical experts, laser researchers and hair loss specialists flew in to share their expertise with 40 privileged guests.

Chris Webb Toasts Randy Veliky and Lexington, LLC

everyone that the company was obligated to defend its intellectual property. Failure to do so, would undermine the patent so the company had no choice but to prosecute any infractions.

James Britt, president of AlphaLase International and the first man to import a hood laser into the United States, summarized the history of light therapy in the United States before presenting AlphaLase, LX 400, the only professional laser to incorporate a professional audio recording to educate patients about light therapy as it was actually taking place. Doctors Ronald Chao and Dan Hale talked about the value of low level laser light therapy for hair transplant patients, telling the audience that it had major benefits at virtually every stage of the hair restoration process, starting with the post surgery period when it actually jump-started the telogen, or hair growth cycle, minimizing shedding and putting the patient several weeks ahead of non-laser patients. Both doctors indicated that laser therapy in conjunction with hair regrowth drugs delivered a geometric benefit, something previously noted at other medical research conferences.

It's All About Lasers

The cosmetic surgeons were followed by Dawn Harrison, president of Invisible Hair, a company that specializes in hair loss solutions for women. Dawn pointed out that light therapy was particularly important for women since they were precluded from taking oral medication like Propecia and frequently subjected their hair to aggressive chemicals and traction alopecia. Dawn and Leonard Venti pointed out a little known fact of great value to hair replacement wearers; light therapy not only generates new hair growth, it also thickens existing hair. When the diameter

Dr Dan Hale Provides Surgical Insight

Hosted by The National Hair Society, the purpose of this two-day event was to give participants a solid understanding of low level laser light therapy, its history, benefits and commercial applications. At the end of two days of back to back presentations and demonstrations, attendees knew more about this important technology than probably anyone else in the country.

Christopher Webb, founder and publisher of The National Hair Journal, opened proceedings with an analysis of the changing hair loss marketplace. He drew attention to changing demographics in our image-driven society and the increasing predisposition of people to turn to technology to find solutions to everything from medical care to personal image management.

Dr. Khadavi Describes Revivogen Products

Randy Veliky At The Podium

Chris Webb Introduces Dr Chao

James Britt Gives History Of LLLT

thickness (denier) of each hair is increased, they not only look healthier and more lustrous, their color intensity is magnified. In this way, the fringe hair beneath a man’s hair replacement system will have deeper colors and will be easier to match with his replacement hair. Similarly, a woman wearing an integration or extension will find it easier to match the texture and color of her growing hair. And if she wears long, heavy extensions or multiple extensions for extra density, she will certainly appreciate the added strength of her growing hair and its ability to anchor those extensions more securely.

The laser workshop was privileged to have Dr. Alex Khadavi, a member of the faculty of the University of Southern California and creator of the Revivogen product line, explain the benefits of low level laser light therapy in conjunction with of topical or oral hair regrowth medication.

His company had conducted numerous studies not only on the effectiveness of Revivogen in halting hair loss but the benefits of combining Revivogen with light therapy. He presented detailed charts explaining the process of hair miniaturization and the role of Revivogen and laser therapy in arresting and even reversing this process.

Leonard Venti On Laser Marketing

Dawn Harrison Presents At Laser Expo

A highlight of the workshop was an in-depth presentation by Randy Veliky, COO, Lexington International, LLC, who described the clinical trials undertaken by his company that resulted in FDA clearance of the HairMax LaserComb. The statistical data, and supporting photography, provided conclusive evidence that used correctly, the LaserComb delivers impressive hair growth results. Spectacular video demonstrated how light energy is transferred from cell to cell. Veliky methodically outlined the research data, pointing out that FDA clearance was device-specific and related solely to the HairMax LaserComb. He emphasized that “clearance” did not mean commercial “approval,” pointing out that the FDA accepted the HairMax LaserComb as safe for its

On Sunday night, it was the guests turn to light up the night as they donned luminescent wristbands and necklaces and headed off to the Napa Valley Grille for a special dinner hosted by Lexington International, LLC. After a day of intense laser instruction, it seemed entirely appropriate that everyone should glow in the dark, though whether it was from the decorations or from the wine, no one will ever know.

The National Hair Society wishes to thank its distinguished panel of experts for giving up their time to share their knowledge. We are grateful to Lexington International for sharing its research data and providing valuable guidance and direction. A special thank you also to AlphaLase for complimentary samples of their Anagen Therapy products and shower filters, and to Revivogen for their product samples. The Society is indebted to Penny Moss and Heather Simon, who listened to Hair Society members and made their requests a physical reality.

21 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

Cyber World 2007

Darla Smith Welcomes Attendees Attendees Holding On To Every Last Word

Orlando, 03/07 - They don’t come more tightly knit than the CyberHair group. Most members have known each other for decades. Many have traveled together to visit the overseas factories that create the patented man-made fiber that is CyberHair. And every twelve months they come together to discuss new technologies, share experiences… and compete in the annual Muckers competition! This year, the trophy was awarded once again Scott VanScoy whose mastery of the event left the competition gasping. But rumor has it that a stealth team is in training, and 2008 could see a major upset.

IHI President, Peter Gensler and VP, Darla Smith welcomed guests to the Buena Vista Palace Hotel & Spa, together with Creative Director, Connie Kroskin. It was a special reunion. Amy Gibson was there also to bring everyone up to date on the new ‘Amy’s Presence’ collection and emphasize the tremendous need among women with hair loss for products that would allow them to continue their personal and recreational lives with confidence and sophistication.

A high-powered team of instructors was on hand to share their styling and marketing skills. Presenters included Michael Diebold, IHI educator, Jeffrey Paul, of Jeffrey Paul Salon, Cleveland, OH, Monique Smith, owner of Monique Salon, Spokane, WA, Carol Carig, owner Hair After Style Quarters, Hagerstown, MD, Connie Kroskin, IHI Creative Director and Jim Hill, president, DK Int’l., Chanhasen, MN.

Workshop in Progress

If the daylight hours were dedicated to learning, the evening was given over to relaxation and merriment. Dinner guests found soft, spongy balls on their tables, each one illustrated with a map of the world. But instead of being taken home as souvenirs, CyberHair dealers found a more entertaining use for them. When Peter and Darla mounted on stage for their post-dinner speech, they were pelted with blue balls and had to take refuge under the podium. The evening finished on a hilarious note and the guests were still laughing late in the evening as they made their way through the corridors back to their rooms.

Your IHI Top Organizing Team

Scott VanScoy Receives The Muckers Trophy

Bill Spitale Takes A Break.

Amy Gibson and Gilberto Febles

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22 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

The Battle of the Sexes

(cont. from pg. 8) A commercial that appeals to a man will not appeal to a woman. Now, with the first introduction of women's hair replacement into a market, almost any type of commercial might generate decent leads since the product is so new and there are many women who have been desperately waiting for just such a solution. Again, not too different a situation from the men's market twenty years ago.

But as we learned with the men's market, as more and more advertising appears and less "lay down" sales remain in the marketplace, more sophisticated efforts are needed. In this case, the sophistication I'm referring to lies in the need for the advertising to "engage" the woman on her terms and to appeal to her in a way that leads her to believe that you can solve her problem.

Constructive (and instructive) engagement We've already produced one or two all-print, newspaper advertising campaigns for the women's market at On Rite. They consisted of a few print ads, and then a brochure describing the process that could be mailed out to women who requested more information. But we soon realized that we'd have to do something more to maximize a studio's advertising dollars.

The result was a new, all-print campaign called Encore., Instead of relying on large newspaper ads with "before" and "after" photos to tell the product story, we chose to tell no story at all in the advertising. Instead, we created very small space ads (some as small as one column inch by one inch) that offer a free pamphlet called "Women and Hair Loss". Half of the twelve-page piece contains general information about how and why women lose their hair; it also discusses various solutions. The other half of the pamphlet contains information about the process we're selling, the Encore approach.

We created this campaign knowing that women are "information gatherers", and are far more interested in developing a broad knowledge about a subject than men. So what better way to reach these women than with a promise of free information about the very subject they're interested in? And what better way to provide a cost-effective advertising campaign for studio owners than to be able to convey the free pamphlet offer in small, inexpensive ads?

Nuance becomes more important As the woman's market enters its growth stage and competition becomes more intense at the same time that potential clients become more educated, advertising must sharpen its appeal. This is particularly true with television advertising.

Just showing testimonials from women who've had their hair replaced isn't going to be enough, just as it proved less and less effective in the men's business. Lifestyle vignettes, too, have their limitations. Again, remember that in the introductory stage of the marketing cycle, just announcing that you have a solution for women will draw inquiries and sales. Awareness alone is all that advertising has to do at that stage to be effective.

But once awareness is achieved, more is needed in order to create purchase intent.

So, today's women's commercials have to engage and compel the woman watching them. By engage, I mean the woman watching must "get into" the commercial, be drawn into it, and "buy into" what is being said. By compel, I mean that more than just "buy into" what the commercial is saying, it must motivate them enough to call for a brochure or a consultation.

I have not seen many women's commercials, at least commercials in which women are featured without men, in the past couple of years. So I can't comment on what others are doing. I can tell you, with no small amount of pride, that the Methode Trapeze women's program I created for On Rite is a howling success. It's not only generating an amazingly low cost per lead--far lower than

anyone in the industry has ever seen--but more important, Methode Trapeze is delivering the lowest cost per sale than anyone in the industry has ever experienced. I know of one studio owner who is averaging around 12 sales per month while spending slightly over $3,000 per month on advertising.

The reason for this success? When we produced Methode Trapeze, we were going for a different appeal. We didn't want to show lifestyle or glamour. We wanted to take a gritty, down-to-earth, more real than real, approach. So we sought out women who were able to express themselves freely and accurately. Not glamorous women, but middle-class soccer moms in their thirties and forties. We prompted these women to tell us how they felt about their hair loss and how they dealt with it, in short, bitesized statements.

What we ended up with were a bunch of "sound bites": heart-wrenching, simple truths that turned out to be a clarion call to the women watching at home who also suffered from hair loss. This was the "engagement" part. To compel the women to take action, we had these same women share their dissatisfaction with solutions they have previously tried; and then witnessed their absolute delight with women's aug-

mentation done the Methode Trapeze way.

Given the results reported by the many studios who are now using Methode Trapeze, we were right on target in our approach.

But it's still a man's world More sophisticated advertising campaigns like Methode Trapeze will no doubt spur even greater investment in advertising to the women's market. But as stated earlier, more advertising will lead to greater competition for women with hair loss.

Eventually, this will make the women's market less profitable.

But then, the women's market will never be a replacement for the men's market. Men lose their hair in far greater number than women. Men also tend to lose their hair earlier in life than women. That not only gives us a far broader spectrum to which to advertise, it also means that many men with hair loss are younger, some unmarried and without children. This gives them more disposable income, which of course, allows them to afford non-surgical replacement, especially program hair.

I don't think it takes much to sell the hair replacement industry on men. The problem is finding out what it takes to sell men.

On Rite itself is working on a truly revolutionary approach right now that does away

with all the old practices and protocols.

I'm sure there are others working on new ideas, as well. The problem is, will studio owners even want to try to appeal to men again? Or will they just be content to invest their advertising dollars into the women's market, or multi-therapeutic approaches?

Studio owners who are content with the latter, in my opinion, will be sacrificing long-term profitability for short-term gains. The battle of the sexes needs a truce to be arranged before it goes much further. Because by bringing balance to the equation, the winner of the battle won't be men and it won't be men. It will be the studio owner.

Steven DiManni has worked at some of Madison Avenue’s top advertising agencies for 25 years, rising from junior copywriter to Senior Vice President/Creative Director in his current position. For 24 of those years, Steven has also produced advertising for the hair replacement industry. A long-time consultant for On Rite, Steven has amassed a slew of creative awards, including Clios, Andys, Effies and Echoes.

In addition, he is a board member of the prestigious John Caples International Awards and a frequent guest speaker at industry functions.

23 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

24 The National Hair Journal Summer 2007

The National Hair Journal is published Quarterly.Copyright Š 2007. Single copies of most past issues of The National Hair Journal are available prepaid at $10.00 per copy. Special issues are more.The National Hair Journal serves primarily the hair replacement , hair restoration and personal enhancement industries.It sponsors conferences and trade events and produces analysis & marketing research on the hair replacement and restoration industries.Postmaster: Please send address changes to: The National Hair Journal, LLC 39252 Winchester Rd., #107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563