2009 Fall

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Marketing

Fashion

The Bulding of a Brand

The Hair Addition Market

Features

News Makers

A Friend Indeed

Synthetic vs Human

The Bill Sacker

Meet CK Chao, Founder and President of Natureal Paris

Story

with Hannah Mayo

George Fettig VP Marketing, Bosley

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The National Hair Journal VOLUME 13 NO. 51

THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF HAIR FITNESS , HAIR REPLACEMENT AND RESTORATION

THE TRANSFORMERS How Beauty Attitudes Change As We Age New York, NY/Arlington Heights, IL. 08/09 What people find beautiful about themselves may be different than what they find appealing in another person. That’s just one finding from a recent consumer survey conducted on the BeautyforLife website, a joint venture of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons and the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. Visitors were asked ‘’What aspect of physical beauty do you find most appealing in another person?’’ In their 20s, 30s, and 40s, respondents look for a fit, well proportioned body. Youthful skin ranked at the top for respondents in the 50s and 60s. When considering ‘’Which part of your own body are you most concerned about?’’ respondents ranked their abdomen/hips number

one in their 30s, but surprisingly listed the face, not their body, as the most popular choice in the 20s, 40s, 50s and 60s. “It is always important to understand what our patients are most concerned about at different stages of their lives,” said ASAPS President Renato Saltz, MD. “We want to be equipped to help our patients make the right decisions to maintain their beauty at every age — no matter which type of cosmetic/medical procedure they are interested in.” Community members were also asked to consider ‘’The most important reason to maintain your physical appearance.’’ ‘’To boost self-confidence’’ was the top choice across all decades,

Laser Lawsuit

The Chicago Sun-Times reports that The Better Business Bureau revoked NHGI’s accreditation in September 2008 and has given the company an F, its lowest grade. The Illinois Department of Professional Regulation fined Bennis $10,000 in November 2008 and ordered him to stop using laser treatment for hair loss without a license, according to spokeswoman Susan Hofer. Natural Hair Growth Institute’s stated goal is, “To be the leader in the hair re-growth industry worldwide.”

Boycott Threatened Theme Park Told It Insults Hair Wearers Ft. Lauderdale, FL (PRWEB) July 27, 2009 HairLoss.com, a social network website dedicated to raising public awareness about hair loss issues is calling for officials at Freestyle Music Park in Myrtle Beach, SC, to cease running a popular television ad promoting their Time Machine roller coaster or face a boycott. “The officials at Freestyle Music Park should be ashamed and embarrassed

The survey was conducted by The American Society of Plastic Surgeons (APS) and the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). APS is the largest organization of board-certified plastic surgeons in the world, representing more than 6,700 physician members, comprising more than 94 percent of all board-certified plastic surgeons in the United States. The 2,400-member ASAPS is the only plastic surgery organization devoted entirely to the advancement of cosmetic surgery. (Source; PRWeb)

Still Spending

Chicago. 08/09 - Natural Hair Growth Institute, headquartered in Deerfield, IL is the subject of a class-action lawsuit claiming consumer fraud and breach of contract. Two clients assert they were denied a full refund when they failed to achieve promised results from their laser hair care regimen. Natural Hair Growth Institute’s website states its staff, “Is able to closely determine the expected six-month outcome for each individual and therefore offers every client a 100% money back guarantee if the expected results are not realized.” Customers searching for an explanation of the benefits and mechanism of light therapy are also informed on the company’s website that, “Orbit Laser Light Therapy is a form of cold laser light to stimulate blood flow throughout the scalp” and “… a breakthrough form of cold laser that has been in use for many years in Europe and recently approved by the FDA for use in the US.” Further explanation adds that. “Orbit Laser Light Therapy introduces energy to the scalp and cells in the form of non-thermal photons of light.”

with ‘’To attract potential partners’’ a close second for the 20s. In the 30s and 40s, the secondmost popular choice shifted to ‘’To increase professional opportunities,’’ which remained the number two choice in the 50s, but by a much smaller percentage. In the 60s, increasing professional opportunities fell to third behind ‘’To help make friends.’’

Women’s Makeup, Hair Habits Unchanged by Economy

...and that’s the way it was in June,1924. for not only promoting this cheap, low-level and insulting ad, but then by defending it as ‘fun’,” said Michael Garcia, spokesman for HairLoss.com. “We should be past so-called ‘funny ads’ that are humorous at the expense of people who suffer from a physical disability.” The television ad shows the 150-foottall roller coaster moving so fast that a man loses his hairpiece. The owner of a hair replacement business in South Carolina, Dennis Murphy, challenged the park’s claim by riding the roller coaster without his very own hairpiece - or hair system - falling off. Although Freestyle Music Park officials allowed television cameras into the park to cover Murphy’s challenge, they insist the ad is meant to be “fun” and vowed to continue running it.

Hair Loss Awareness Month August is National Hair Loss Awareness Month. Established by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), this year marks the 9th year for National Hair Loss Awareness month, dedicated to raise awareness of the condition from which an estimated 60 million men and 40 million women in America suffer.

NEW YORK, 08/09 - In an ongoing effort to better understand women’s beauty routines, L’Oreal, in its 100th year, commissioned an international usage survey. The “Beauty Barometer” survey polled 4,000 women in the US and four European countries about their cosmetic products and usage. Here are some of the highlights: • Proving that beauty is recession-proof, nine out of 10 women in the United States and Europe reported no change in makeup usage despite the economic crisis. • The majority of women in the US are not compromising on hair care during the recession. • Some 63% of women have not cut their hair to make it less expensive to maintain. • The majority of women surveyed (82%) believe wearing makeup makes them feel more self confident, and even more believe that wearing makeup improves their self image (86%). Founded in 1909 with a single hair dye product, today L’Oreal operates in more than 130 countries, boasts more than 80,000 products from 23 leading beauty brands and creates more than 7,000 new formulations each year.

FALL 2009

Lifetime Achievement Award Goes to… Arnold West Palm Beach, FL. 0909 - There are few people who have contributed more to the hair replacement industry than Arnold Zimmerman. His vision, energy and goodwill built National Hair Centers of Phoenix into one of the top full-service hair replacement centers in the country with an 11,000 square foot facility, over 30 e m p l oye e s and an advanced surgical center. But it didn't stop there. a Always believer in supporting the industry, Arnold generously shared his knowledge and even his advertising materials with other salons around the country. While many business owners protected their "trade secrets," Arnold Zimmerman wanted everyone to be successful and he generously contributed his time and resources to benefit the industry. Arnold was a founding member of Transition International Group and the first recipient of his namesake award, the “Arnold Zimmerman Award for Excellence.” He was also presented with the Salon of the Year award by The National Hair Journal. In 2009, Arnold becomes the first recipient of the Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award, created by the Martin family in memory of their son, Randy Martin, himself a business pioneer. The award will be given at an official ceremony during New Image’s Annual International Conference at the Diplomat Hotel, Hollywood Florida in October, 2009.

Society Clarifies Role

sharing one event, but each one has its own agenda. “The purpose of sharing one venue is to save participants time and travel costs. The Hair Society is not endorsing or sponsoring European Hair. Conversely, European Hair is not involved in the laser, computer software or Internet marketing programs being hosted by the National Hair Society.”

Murrieta, CA 08/09 - The Hair Society found itself caught up in semantics when salon owners asked if it was ‘sponsoring’ or ‘co-hosting’ “Cruising with the Stars,” a four-day conference featuring workshops on new technologies, together with product presentations by European Hair. Hair Society director, Heather Simon, stated that the two organizations are

In the past, the National Hair Journal has proposed multi-manufacturer tradeshows, bringing all major manufacturers and distributors to one central location, but this met a lukewarm reception. Distributors point out that they invest heavily to develop and educate their client base and they are reluctant to expose these customers to competitive products.

New Anti-Inflammatory Formula in Clinical Trials

of pathologic inflammation by using a wellvalidated molecular assay representative of hair follicle keratinocytes. The research team found that the test compound suppressed gene expression of several inflammatory chemokines potentially linked to hair loss.

Rensselaer, NY. 08/09 - In the current issue of the peer-reviewed medical journal Evidence Based Complimentary & Alternative Medicine (eCAM) scientists at The University of Albany, Center For Functional Genomics, working collaboratively with Advanced Restoration Technologies (ART), report the positive findings of a series of experiments undertaken to test a naturally derived hair loss treatment formula, TS050508A. Because chronic inflammation of the hair follicle is considered a contributing factor in the onset and progression of androgenetic alopecia (AGA), investigators sought to measure the test material’s activity in blocking key markers

In addition to anti-inflammatory agents, TS050508A was formulated with a subset of botanically derived, highly potent 5 alphareductase (5AR) inhibitors. 5AR catalyzes the conversion of testosterone (T) to its more pathological metabolite dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT is a well-known trigger of pattern hair loss. Thus, by combining targeted anti-inflammatory agents with potent 5AR inhibitors the test composition was designed to offer enhanced clinical efficacy over conventional monotherapy. Full report in Winter edition



3 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

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Bee Pollen, Flax Seed and Hair - It was a beautiful day in Southern California. As I looked out of the window, hummingbirds were sipping at nectar hung beneath the camphor tree and yellow finches played in the fountain. While I sprinkled bee pollen and flaxseed on my breakfast yogurt, I reflected on how much things have changed since I relocated from New York City to La-La-Land. And as I checked off one by one the changes that have quietly insinuated themselves into my lifestyle, I got to think about the hair business and how that too has evolved. Maybe I am not typical, but I don’t think I am that far out of the mainstream. This morning, for example, I took my usual shower beneath a special filter that removes impurities and chlorine from the water. Once I was dry, I reached for the HairMax LaserComb that sits on my washstand, turned on the beeper that tells me every 4 seconds when to move it across my head. For the next 15 minutes I carried out the second of my three times a week laser treatment. As I did so, like every other person concerned about the condition of their hair, I examined myself closely in the mirror, wondering if my hair was thick, healthier, or more pigmented than it had been three months ago. Before I turn out the lights tonight, I will, of course, remember to take my Propecia. It seems I am a textbook cross-marketing example! Years ago, I wore a hair system, attached by a braid (“foundation”), and made an appointment every 4 to 6 weeks for “service.” Today, I am every hair salon’s dream customer. I have worn human and synthetic hair systems, undergone two hair transplant surgeries, follow a low-level laser light regimen, and take an FDA approved hair loss drug nightly. About the only thing I have not tried is the hair DX genetic test, but that is only because I was too busy interviewing company president Andy Goren to remember to submit my saliva sample! So when I write about the opportunities in cross-marketing, I live in that market every day. The Internet is awash with hair loss solutions of every kind and your customers not only expect you to make sense of them all, but also to offer the best among them. You have no choice. To remain relevant and competitive you have to have medical and nonmedical solutions available as well as the latest technologies like light therapy. That’s where the Hair Journal can help

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you. We travel extensively to meet the researchers and experts making hair loss news and pass on what we learn through feature articles and interviews. But this is a twoway process. If you or your colleagues have news or insights of their own to share, we welcome your “letters to the editor” and articles. Advertising vs. Editorial - As “reality shows” proliferate on television and “product placement” expands unabashedly in all media, it is sometimes hard to know where objective information stops and advertising begins. So I’d like to explain to readers our own editorial policy. Firstly, there is no link between the articles we print and advertising income we receive. We do no special favors for our advertisers, though predictably, the most aggressive marketing companies tend to be the ones that create the most news. Sometimes, a new company will burst onto the scene and begin advertising in our pages. We had an example of this in our last issue. When that happens, readers call us for more information about the company and we will do further research and perhaps interview the company president or technical experts. You have an example of that in this issue. But there is no connection between advertising and editorial. Another distinctive feature of The Journal is our commitment to strengthening the hair loss market. We do not print gossip or scandal in order to increase circulation. In fact, we only report negative developments when they can harm business owners or the integrity of the industry. Unlike the television news, we are not in the business of depressing you with bad news for its own sake! In this issue, we carry a poignant story that illustrates the satisfaction that comes from helping someone in need. “A Friend Indeed” is a moving story that we heard about from Hair Society member, Leon Emmons. Although the events took place several years ago, Leon is still moved when he talks about it. The article reminds us that we have the unique ability to help people look and feel better whether or not they can afford to pay for our services. Sometimes it’s not about the money — it’s because it’s the right thing to do. Chris Webb

Editor-in-Chief choices at different price points.

Letters to the

Editor

Once again, “European” means European design, not exclusively European hair.

Dear Editor, I am writing to clarify any misunderstandings the name of my company, European Hair Imports, may have caused in the market.

Sincerely, Rene Meier President, European Hair Imports

Some people have asked me if we specialize in virgin or Remy hair from Eastern Europe. The answer is no. Our products are designed and fashioned in Europe, thus the “European” name, but we work with different types of hair and fibers from all over the world. For the most part, we find that Indo-hair offers the best value for money.

Dear Editor: I wanted to drop you an overdue message of thanks for the nice article in The Summer Journal.

There are companies that specialize only in one hair type, but we have chosen to offer our customers a wider range of

My daughters said I looked like one of the Transformers from their favorite movie! Best regards to everyone at The National Hair Journal. Sincerely, Lance Centofanti


4 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

A FRIEND INDEED How a hair replacement friend gave a man his life back

Photo:Lane Wyrick

The Hair Journal first learned about Bill Sackter at a Cyberhair conference in June 2009. On the last day of the conference, Leon Emmons, a salon owner from Des Moines, IA told a roomful of hard-nosed professionals how he had encountered a man with very special needs and how, over a period of several years,

Leon Emmons

he had used his hair replacement skills to help change his life. When Leon finished there was hardly a dry eye in the house. The client’s name was Bill Sackter and his life story was made famous by the award winning made-for-TV movie, “Bill” (1981) starring Mickey Rooney as Bill, and Dennis Quaid as the young filmmaker Barry Morrow who had befriended Bill in 1972. The Bill Sackter story is recounted in an inspiring documentary, “A Friend Indeed “which shows how a forgotten man and an uncommon friendship shattered the world’s perceptions of people with disabilities. Lane Wyrick is the man behind this powerful documentary that was voted the #1 Audience Favorite in five festivals. It took 7 years of research and production to put the film together!

Photo:Tom Jorgensen

“A Friend Indeed” has a deep universal appeal as an exploration of the way we, as a society, have treated people with disabilities and how human compassion and caring can really make a difference. The documentary is an emotional journey that is ultimately very inspiring. Anyone viewing the documentary, even those that know nothing about Bill himself or the TV portrayal of him, will be left with the feeling that the real Bill Sackter is as close to them as a great friend. The Journal talked with director Lane Wyrick

National Hair Journal: This interview is about a man who had been classified as mentally retarded, but went on to inspire everyone he came into contact with after a group of dedicated friends showed him how to look better and rebuilt his self confidence. Lane, let’s go back to the beginning. How did Bill come into your life? Lane Wyrick: I’m a filmmaker, and after spending four years in the movie business in Los Angles, I moved back to Iowa to set up my own production company. I was creating short documentary productions and videos for businesses when I was approached by Barry Morrow and Tom Walz about a new project they were hoping I would collaborate on. They had a treasure trove of footage and photographs of a man named Bill Sackter. They wanted me to look at this material and see what I could do with it. Over the course of the next seven years, my “collaboration” developed into a full-length feature film. It shows how some very caring individuals were able to turn Bill’s life around through their selfless compassion, friendship, and even their professional skills. NHJ: Readers of The National Hair Journal are professionals who change lives every day. People come to them for all kinds of reasons; vanity, alopecia, and trauma: and it’s their privilege to help restore their dignity by making them to look better. That’s why we wanted to share this story. Bill Sackter never had the opportunity to visit a hair replacement center, but he regained his self-respect and even his ebullient personality when Leon Emmons and some other dedicated professionals helped him look the way he’d wanted all his life. I’ll let you tell the story… LW: Bill was the kind of person who would be overlooked by most people. But a young college student named Barry Morrow was able to see that this abandoned man was a diamond in the rough. When they first met, Bill had a goiter on his neck, rotting teeth and was trying to conceal his baldness with a really bad wig. But Barry didn’t see a derelict old man, he sensed warmth and character behind the facade and he wanted him to help. Little by little, Barry became his friend and guided him towards a normal life. My film documents how Barry’s efforts transformed Bill and made him a role model for everyone who feels abandoned and alone in the world. At the end of the documentary, you meet a man who has a striking appearance and exudes confidence because of this

“A Friend Indeed - The Bill Sackter Story” director Lane Wyrick

to fill in the gaps Leon Emmons did not have time to describe. We learned that the young film-maker, Barry Morrow had been able to capture and preserve precious moments during his friendship with Bill and hoped that one day they would become the foundation for a documentary. Nearly three decades later, Barry met award-winning filmmaker Lane Wyrick at a Los Angeles premiere and chose him to take on this ambitious project. After 7 years of research and production, Wyrick premiered “A Friend Indeed - The Bill Sackter Story” at Hancher Auditorium in Iowa City - the same location where the TV Movie “Bill” had been screened 27 years earlier. Barry Morrow went on to a successful Hollywood screenwriting career, winning an Oscar for “Rain Man,” another movie about a man who overcomes his disabilities.

inward and outward transformation. NHJ: You make the point that there were two parts to Bill’s transformation; knowing that there were people who appreciated him for who he was, and secondly, regaining his dignity by looking better. LW: Bill did whatever he could to look good even though he had no professional help and no resources. He had lost his hair, but always wanted to wear a wig… any wig… to cover this up. There is a tragic moment in the film where a young Bill has a confrontation with a guard at the institution who physically tears the hair from his head. It was a moment of deep humiliation for Bill, and an emotional scar he carried with him for most of his adult life. NHJ: We can certainly empathize with that! LW: So could hair replacement specialist, Leon Emmons! When he saw a photograph of


5 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009 Bill and read his story in the newspaper, he knew he had to do something. He felt compelled to find Bill Sackter and see if there was anything,

even at this late date, he could do to help. Leon was probably too modest to tell you, but over the years he helped transform this person who used to wear “a really bad woman’s wig” into a confident, distinguished older man with a really nice and natural-looking wig. NHJ: All it takes is one caring person… LW: Leon really cared about Bill. As I’ve gotten to know him through filming this documentary, I realized that Leon really cares about a lot of people and uses his talents to transform peoples’ lives, but Bill was special. Leon brought Bill into his salon and got to know him personally. He went to great lengths to find a quality wig that would match his personality and fit in with his lifestyle. He wanted something Bill could wear forever. There’s actually a lot of footage both in the documentary and on the “extras” of the DVD that Leon videotaped himself showing them together. As you watch the movie, you really get to know Bill the person and share his excitement about getting his new hair. He was especially excited to share his nice new hair with children. Bill cared a lot about kids. NHJ: In his later years, after he left the institution, the new Bill with his new teeth and hair and suit was often mistaken for a business leader or someone in authority. LW: That’s right. He dressed up in a suit and people would mistake him for the local rabbi or someone of distinction. When he went to Washington D.C. to meet the president, people mistook him for an important statesman! Bill could have become embittered after he had 44 years of his life taken away in an institution, but he wasn’t like that. The TV movie showed his optimism and love of life to the world. He got to tour lot of different places, a lot of disability organizations, and he became a beacon of hope for everyone with a disability. NHJ: After seven years compiling this documentary and tracing Bill’s evolution, do you think too much emphasis is placed on the way people look? LW: The best way I can answer that is to suggest that people view the documentary. Before Bill got professional help, many people would push him away. They didn’t want to be around him. He was lucky because there were people who could see beyond his external appearance and they became his friends. They helped fix his teeth and hair and helped him become more broadly accepted in society. In today’s society, first impressions are often made on how we look. One part of my production business involves videotaping “body contouring” surgeries of people who have undergone massive weight loss procedures, to correct for the excess sagging skin that is left over. After the surgical procedure, their physical transformation can be just as dramatic as Bill’s outward change in appearance. It is always gratifying to see someone go through such a change, and it seems to make a big difference in the confidence they feel in social situations. NHJ: In today’s hectic world, it’s rare that people take the time to help others in need. But what you give, comes around, doesn’t it? Later in his life, Bill gave back too. Tell me about this. LW: The one thing people get from this documentary is the reward that comes from giving without expecting anything in return. Leon Emmons and Barry Morrow did not expect any praise or benefit. Befriending Bill was its own reward. But Bill brought all these people lasting memories and shared his incredible, positive viewpoint of life. When people watch the documentary and they’ve had a bad day, they think, here’s a man who was institutionalized for 44

years, and yet, he’s always upbeat and positive. Maybe my problems aren’t so bad after all. People leave the documentary feeling uplifted. It’s a great emotional experience. A lot of laughter, a lot of tears, but ultimately, very inspiring. NHJ: You put a major part of your own life into this documentary. When people, in the hair business look at the film, what would you like them to feel and what would you like them to do? LW: I hope they will feel inspired to help someone; maybe someone with little money or few friends that could really benefit from the professional help that they have to offer. NHJ: You mentioned that you also film other cosmetic procedures. LW: Yes, I have my documentaries, but I also videosurgeries and tape makeovers. The stories are fascinating and I enjoy illustrating the effects these transformations have on the lives of the people involved. I have traveled around the country videotaping the top doctors in the body contouring field. I am a film maker at heart, and every new production presents a challenge and tells an interesting story. NHJ: Do you think there are other Bill Sackter stories out there? LW: There are lots of people with unique stories. I think it would be interesting to learn about people in different situations where their physical appearance is affecting their lives and relationships. They might have lost their hair through an accident or coming back from war. It would be very interesting to follow them and see how their lives are changed when they restore their outward appearance. NHJ: The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) has created a special medical program that offers pro bono help to people whose lives are diminished by hair loss but don’t have the means to pay for medical help. I am sure they would like to document the work they do. LW: I’d love to explore projects that would tell the story behind these procedures. I’m good at getting in-depth profiles of the personalities involved and showing how they’ve changed as a result of the help they received. NHJ: Another area that has many poignant stories is women undergoing chemotherapy. When a woman loses her hair, not only is she losing her beauty, her dignity, her sex appeal, everything that is fundamental to being a woman; but at the same time she is scared about her very survival. So many huge emotions are colliding. It would be very powerful to tell a story about that kind of courage seen through the eyes of a cancer survivor who could share her journey and give hope to others. LW: There is nothing more comforting and beneficial than sharing your true emotions… fear, hope, anger… with someone who is facing, or has surmounted, the same challenges as you. NHJ: If somebody wanted to inquire about working with you on a film assignment, how would they reach you? LW: They can either come to my website, XapInteractive.com or email me at Lane@XapInteractive.com. While not every story would make a production on the scale of “A Friend Indeed – The Bill Sackter Story”, I am certainly interested in hearing powerful, emotional stories of transformation and figuring out the best way to present them onscreen. NHJ: Hair loss is often a source of humor. The more embarrassment, the funnier it is. And yet, in the real world, it is a devastating condition. There are people who have committed suicide because of their hair loss. Friends from Germany recently told me that job applicants in their country are expected to include a photograph on their resume. But people who have thinning hair are invited in for job interviews only half as often as people who have a full head of hair! LW: It’s sad that we have a culture based on visual and outward appearance. What being done in the hair industry can really improve people’s lives. That’s what happened to Bill and what I hope will happen to many more people like him. Footer: To learn more about the documentary go to www.BillSackter.com. You can watch the first four minutes of the documentary, can see the trailer or order a DVD. The documentary is also being screened in limited release in movie theaters around the country.


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Why now is the time to brand your studio By Steven DiManni

As I have previously stated in these pages, “branding” is one of the most overused words in American business. I’ve heard people refer to their logo as “branding”; I’ve heard people call the window displays in their retail stores “branding”; I’ve even heard advertisers proudly boast as they pointed to their company name in an ad, “now that’s my ‘branding’.” What is a brand? What constitutes branding? The best definition I ever heard was when someone once said, “a brand is what someone says about your product or service behind your back.” Basically, a brand is the perception that people have about a product or service. When it’s used as a verb, as in “branding”, it is the act of affecting that perception. Naturally, to affect perception among consumers, you have to communicate your brand’s attributes (or what you think your brand’s attributes are) to the people you’re trying to reach, also known as your target audience. That’s why a logo isn’t branding….unless of course, you associate your company’s name with that logo and then open your

wallet to let everyone know the association, a Nike, or la Marlboro, or Arm & Hammer. That’s also why a window display branding isn’t either, unless of course, you make Steven DiManni your window displays famous-as are Saks Fifth Avenue’s at Christmas-and people line up to view them. That’s also why your company name, in and of itself, isn’t a brand, even if it is in an ad, unless that name stands for something. Think Mercedes Benz or Apple or Crest. Branding isn’t one thing, but a combination of things. Today, they’re called “touch points”, meaning, every way and every manner in which people come in contact with your product and service. It’s the conglomeration of all the ways you communicate and reach out to consumers. However, even though the term noun “brand” and the verb, “branding”, are the most overused words in American business, there’s a very good reason why: your brand or branding efforts mean more to a business than almost any other entity. Think about it I mentioned the Apple brand. What do you think about when you hear Apple? Not just computers, not just MP3 players, not just mobile phones, but rather, a collection of high tech products that are revolutionary in nature and embraced, at least at first, by the avant garde. Now, contrast the Apple brand with IBM. Now what do you think about? Both are manufacturers of high tech products. But you probably think of IBM as being more mainstream, solid, and business-like, don’t you?

Mercedes Benz and Cadillac are both venerated manufacturers of luxury automobiles. Yet their brand names conjure up very disparate images. Mercedes is engineering and innovation. Cadillac is flash and style. You can probably think of a hundred such contrasts between companies in similar industries yourself, if you try. But you don’t have to try; in fact, you don’t even have to think about it. The great thing about a brand is that it almost instantly conjures up a certain image, almost instantly, without much forethought. Of course, branding can also work against you in that same vein. Think about DeLorean, or AIG, or Schlitz. See what I mean? Branding and the hair replacement industry The only real brand in the hair replacement industry on a national level is Hair Club. That’s not necessarily because Hair Club ran “brand” commercials. They ran, and still run, direct response commercials. But the sheer weight of the millions of dollars spent in airing these commercials over two decades made the name “Hair Club” part of the national lexicon. Try to find anyone in this country who doesn’t know who Hair Club is. The reason that I mentioned that Hair Club commercials have always been of the direct response variety, is this. A direct response commercial is any commercial that seeks to elicit a response, either by calling a phone number or visiting a website. A “brand” commercial tries to persuade you to think a certain way about a brand, but is not trying to sell it to you directly or asking you to request information. Think about the late great Billy Mays and OxiClean. Pure direct response (just like every commercial Billy did). Now think about a commercial for Tide detergent.

See what I mean? One is trying to sell you right then and there on doing something. The other is trying to convey imagery so you’ll think about the brand a certain way. However, today the lines between direct response commercials and traditional branding commercials is blurring. Many typical brand commercials contain a direct response mechanism, such as asking people to visit a website. And more and more direct response commercials are devoting at least some of their time to convey an image about the company that’s selling the advertised item. Hair Club is doing just that now. Yes, their commercials are still filled with testimonials and calls to action for their free brochure and informational booklet. But there’s something more. Today, Hair Club is also selling Hair Club, in addition to “selling a toll free call”. They talk about their history, about how many people they’ve helped; Hair Club also refers to their other services, such as medical hair restoration, to brand themselves as a “one stop shopping” solution for men and women with hair loss. What do people think about your studio? If you stopped a hundred people randomly on the street and asked them if they knew about your studio, and what did they think about it, you’d probably not get a lot of recognition, unless of course, you advertise very heavily. Now, assuming that you’re not a megaadvertiser, but do advertise modestly, and that you were to find one or two people out of the hundred that recognized your studio’s name…what would they say when asked what they thought about it? Well, if you’re like most hair replacement advertisers, they might say something about the product or service you’d advertised. But they probably wouldn’t be able to tell you (cont. on pg.11)


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here are constant rumors about new products in the pipeline, and we follow up on all of them, but we knew nothing about Natureal until the company contacted us and reserved the center spread of The National Hair Journal to announce their new hair collection. So we were just as curious as our readers to meet the man behind this new product and learn more about it. We caught up with CK Chao at the Hilton Hotel outside Los Angeles International Airport during a stopover en route to New York. CK, as he likes to be called, is a quiet but intense man who has spent his entire life in the hair business. In fact, as he proudly points out, he is a fourth generation wig and hair system manufacturer. We spent the afternoon

Synthetic vs Human Meet C.K. Chao – The man behind Natureal

decided to discontinue this research because the market was simply too small for them. However, a friend at the company is passionate about the wig industry and together we convinced the laboratory to keep the project going. The product prototypes continued to go backwards and forwards and finally, in 2009, after 10 years, we got everything right.

shortage of human hair and the quality is only going to get worse. Although my company has always been a major force in the human hair market, we decided to form a new company, Natureal Paris, to develop a new-generation synthetic that would be even better than human. Last year we completed our quality controls. The product we are launching today is the result of years of trials and product testing.

people do not grow and sell hair the way they used to. So it’s not a threat. We have to face the simple reality that the Chinese and Indian economies are growing and kids are not going to sell their hair anymore.

NHJ: What is the chemical base of this filament? CK: It’s a polyester monofilament. NHJ: Have you given your polyester monofilament a special name?

NHJ: What are the warning signs? How will hair replacement salons know the situation is getting precarious?

CK: Not yet, no. NHJ: What are the characteristics that make it so special?

NHJ: Before we started this interview, you told us that your family has a history of pioneering new product developments. CK: That’s right. In the late 19th century my great-grandparents began making hair nets. If you look at old pictures of European high society, you will see people with elaborate hairstyles all held in place with a hair net. They didn’t have hairspray at the time so my family created hair nets. That’s how we got started. NHJ: In many ambitious families, the children are trained to become doctors or CK Chao, President, Natureal Paris lawyers. But in your together reviewing his products, dis- case it was preordained that you were cussing the 10 years of research that pre- going to become a hair specialist. ceded their launch and finally, over a cup CK: It takes a lot of skill and perseverof coffee, talking about friends and con- ance to succeed in the hair market. It is tacts we discovered we both shared. This very complex. The Chinese and Indian interview reminds us how quickly the hair economies are growing fast and becoming marketplace is changing… and how urbanized. Young women don’t want to important it is to take advantage of new sell their hair anymore. As they become technologies. more sophisticated, they want to color and style their hair just like Westerners. This process is going to accelerate and good National Hair Journal (NHJ): Natureal hair will be hard to find. burst onto the hair replacement scene only a few weeks ago and a lot of people are NHJ: Are you dramatizing the situation curious to know more about the company. to make a point, or is this a real threat? How did you stay below the radar? CK: It’s a reality; it’s not a threat. You C.K. Chao (CK): I’ve actually been in only have to read your newspaper to see the hair industry for quite a long time. how quickly China is growing. Look at Until recently I’ve been concerned mainly other industrialized nations; 50 years ago, with the human hair business, but my human hair was available in Europe, focus is now changing. I don’t need to tell Japan, and Korea. But not anymore. As you that in the future there is likely to be a markets develop, lifestyles change and

CK: Suppliers will be forced to keep increasing their prices every six months. We’re seeing the signals already. NHJ: What about East European hair? Eastern Bloc economies are developing more slowly.

CK: The most difficult part of developing this product was making it look as natural as human hair. Most synthetic fibers do not look natural in all wearing situations. NHJ: Because? CK: They tend to be shiny because the surface of the fiber is smooth. And they don’t reflect light naturally. Our research created a surface that resembles healthy cuticle hair and it disperses light naturally. NHJ: What other characteristics of human hair did you have to match? CK: Human hair has many colors. The reflection rates of each color are all different. That means if you want a range of 28 colors, you need 28 different formulae. That’s why it took so long to develop.

CK: Eastern Europe has great hair but a much smaller population, so those supplies are limited. If you look forward 10 or 20 years, only the rich will be able to afford European hair. NHJ: Synthetic hair is popular in Europe, but has never been the preferred fiber in the US. Are things going to change in North America? CK: The US has to change because there is no choice. The good news is we now have better products. Most of the synthetic hair you see on the market today was developed back in the 60s. Because hair replacement is not a very big market, no one put serious marketing dollars into developing a better fiber. NHJ: There are already several manmade hair products on the US market. Why do we need another synthetic? CK: You are correct, there are other synthetics available, but they all have shortcomings of one kind or another. Most of them look shiny, and you cannot curl or blow dry them like human hair. NHJ: It’s a hugely ambitious project to try to match or beat human hair; something that’s of part of the human body! CK: It’s not only ambitious, it’s also very expensive. However, we’ve been a leading player in the hair market for several generations so we have those resources. Today, we believe we have a synthetic that is significantly better than human. It looks like human hair, feels like human hair, it holds the curl… and it’s even easier to work with than human. NHJ: Who did the product development? CK: Over the years I developed a close relationship with a big company that had been sending me different fibers to evaluate. After much debate, their management

NHJ: What about moisture content? CK: Synthetics do not physically absorb water. However, our fiber technology attracts and holds moisture on its surface. NHJ: Some synthetics have to be immersed in water regularly to maintain moisture content – is the same true with your polyester? CK: Polyester does not absorb or ‘internalize’ moisture; but a special treatment on the surface of our filament make it ‘hold’ moisture. NHJ: Does that make a difference in feel and texture? CK: It feels like human hair. You need moisture to make it feel like human hair. NHJ: You use the phrase: “It feels, looks, and behaves like human hair.” Could anybody tell the difference just by feeling Natureal? Take a person from the street. Could an average woman wearing one of your wigs tell it’s not human? CK: We are willing to take that challenge! NHJ: What about a professional cosmetologist? CK: Until they color and cut it, they’ll never see the difference. NHJ: Let’s talk about styling and cutting. Are there any styling limitations? (continued on page 21)


8 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

Five years ago, a comprehensive advertising campaign meant incorporating television, radio, traditional print (newspapers/magazines) and sometimes, direct mail. “Out of home” media referred to billboards and bus benches. While 30-second TV and radio commercials and 30-minute infomercials were once the staples of any hair restoration ad program, today, new technologies have pushed companies to explore new marketing concepts. The DVR/TIVO have made a significant difference in the viewing patterns of the average television viewer (1 in 5 US HH’s have a DVR/TIVO) while satellite radio and in-car CD systems have steered listeners away from traditional radio stations. And of course, the internet has impacted all traditional media dramatically. To combat the DVD/TIVO issue which allows viewers to skip commercials (84% of DVR owners rate the ability to skip commercials as ‘very important), a significant alternative in marketing strategy has been to move from the once proven 30-second commercial to “product placement” and “product integration.” Placement is the idea that product images are either embedded in a TV program rather than at commercial breaks. Integration is a special type of produce placement in which the advertiser’s product Is CENTRAL to the program’s plot line. How is this different than an infomercial? An infomercial is a direct sales pitch. Product integration is entertainment with product embedded into the story.

Reality TV Is Hair Loss Ready for PRIME-TIME? options. Clearly hair loss is something that makes them uncomfortable. So when they are brought to the Confidential set, you are treading on very thin ice. How do you handle this? Lisa Zimmerman (LZ): We have learned to be extremely sensitive to our guests’ emotions and vulnerabilities. When we shot the pilot here in Phoenix, we had a wonderful host, but no therapist or psychologist. We quickly realized that this was not the appropriate way to handle the show.

al interventionist; not to mention your own office expenses. How do you balance this investment with the twin goals of helping people solve their hairloss problems while paying your own expenses and making some kind of profit? YM: The show is not about profit. It never has been. As a matter of fact, Lisa has invested quite a bit of her own money to get the show up and going. NHJ: When a salon participates in the pro-

We now have professional interventionists guiding our guests through the entire intervention. Their problems, as you point out, are deep-seated and the interventionist is there to make sure everyone is comfortable before we go on. Yvonne Marchese (YM): We originally thought we could follow the model of other reality TV shows where there would simply be a popular, sympathetic host. But after shooting the pilot we realized that this show reaches much deeper than typical Hollywood entertainment. These are real lives and real problems. NHJ: The importance of having a professional therapist is obvious in the Myranda episode. LZ: Yes, when we shot our second episode with Myranda in St. Louis, we discovered there were much deeper family issues than we realized. The family had never discussed the challenges surrounding this 15 year old’s hairloss and while they were very sensitive to her situation, they teased and ridiculed her father’s. Thanks to the counselor’s insights, we were able to help the entire family understand the pain and heartbreak that both daughter and father were suffering. NHJ: You walk a fine line – you are documenting someone’s personal circumstances but also creating a commercial product that requires a major investment in film and sound crews, a profession-

gram, are they featured in the episode? YM: Of course! That’s one of the possible benefits of being a transformation center and that could help them in their local community. Lisa has built a network of transformation centers around the country, so no matter where a nominee lives; there is always a high quality studio that we can go to for the transformation. NHJ: This is a major undertaking for such a small team. YM: It just takes one voice to start a revolution, and today that voice is Lisa. We believe that in the end, we’ll have the backing and the support of the entire industry. NHJ:Let’s fast forward twelve months. Where would you like to see this program this time next year? LZ: Prime time on a major cable network. We are being solicited by syndicators who have seen the show who tell us it’s been done with style and taste and is a “one of a kind.” NHJ:Let’s go back to a typical studio that wants to participate in Hair Loss Confidential. How do they start? LZ: First, we would tell them to go to the website, www.hairlossconfidental.tv, and take a look at all of the episodes and videos that demonstrate what Hair Loss Confidential is all about. Then they

With the programming cut backs experienced in the television industry, networks are moving more and more toward reality TV programming which is far less expensive to produce than a drama or sitcom with an ensemble cast. Stats show that the best reality shows are where real-life people in true-to-life situations are interacting favorable with “a product”. Researching all these changes, Lisa Zimmerman determined that the way to re-brand the hair restoration industry would be through a reality TV show. Her reasoning: • Allows for the life-changing success stories to be told in a compassionate way. The stories can be surprisingly moving, tragic, touching and humorous • The advancements in technology for the industry can be showcased without being “pitched” • The hair loss challenge is demonstrated from the person’s point-of-view, rather than the product’s. It’s personal – and that’s what makes a great TV show • Hair restoration is a subject not yet tapped in the television market • The topic is 100% relatable to 100% of the population – those who are suffering from hair loss – and those who love them And so Lisa created Hair Loss Confidential – a dramatic reality TV show created to help men, women and children whose hair loss has affected their lifestyle and livelihood. This is not a typical makeover show. It is an inspiring show that gives the gift of hair to those who have suffered the pain, the shame and the embarrassment that accompanies hair loss. In the Spring edition of The National Hair Journal, we took you behind the scenes at Hair Loss Confidential. You met Lisa, the show’s executive producer and Yvonne Marchese, production supervisor. In this follow-up article, we learn how the show has evolved and how Hair Loss Confidential was able to assist another hair loss victim. National Hair Journal (NHJ): Thinning hair is a very emotional subject. The men and women featured on Hair Loss Confidential have all avoided getting professional advice about their hair replacement

should go to the Contact Us page of the website and request an application. NHJ:How do you select the transformation centers? YM: Our committee reviews their application which tells us who they are, where they are, what services they provide, how long they have been in business . . . that type of thing. They must also submit photos of the interior and exterior of their studio. We evaluate that information and check to see if there are any other transformation centers already in their television DMA. If the territory is open and they meet Lisa’s stringent requirements, then we may invite them to join us. NHJ: What about selecting the show’s subject? YM: They are nominated by family, friends, loved ones or co-workers. We go through the nominations and look at the extent of their hair loss situation; how compelling their story is, and whether we believe we can really deliver positive results for them. NHJ: What makes a really terrific show? LZ: The nominee must be someone with a genuine need. Let me give you an example of a show that would not be compelling. A mother writes in and wants her son to have hair restoration because he’s starting to thin and if he had thicker hair he could pick up chicks. That was a nomination we actually received. That is not a compelling story. Our sixth episode is. It’s about Donny, a 44-yearold man who was a professional model in his twenties. He developed non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma and a brain tumor and lost his hair from the radiation and chemotherapy. This cost him his career and since then, he has become reclusive. Donny continued to live inside that tragedy and until now has not allowed himself to be healed. NHJ:Is there is a special committee or group that evaluates cases like this? LZ: Yes. It can take weeks to go through the evaluation process. NHJ:Once they have been accepted, how do you set up the program? LZ: We work as a team to put together the timeline; the equipment needed, the production crew, all the technical details. We work out all the logistics with the family; when we’re meeting with them, when we’re shooting, when the intervention is going to take place, etc. It’s a very intricate process. We also talk with several psychologists and therapists to find the one that best fits that particular situation. NHJ:Since the subject can’t know about the intervention, how do you get them there? LZ:We’re creative. In one episode they thought they were meeting their sister to go to a movie and in another, the nominee was told they were going to a family party. They walk in completely unsuspecting. NHJ: That, of course, is the drama of the show, but isn’t there a risk of really offending someone? LZ: Of course. But they quickly understand we’re trying to be supportive. YM: In one of the episodes, Kristal’s episode, she said “No!” turned around and stormed off. LZ: Her sister Paula quickly went out to speak with her and explained why she nominated Kristal for the show. Paula told Kristal what her hopes were for her. It was very moving. NHJ:I want to make sure readers understand the language that you use for each step of this journey. YM:The first step is a “pre-intervention” where the family meets the professional therapist or psychologist and they discuss how hair loss has affected not only the person they have nominated, but each individual family member and friend. LZ: Step two is the “intervention” which usually takes place the next day; again with the family and therapist. This is where the show subject is confronted in a real life intervention which is done in both a safe and respectful manner. NHJ:What is step three? YM: The transformation…. and step four is the reveal and celebration! LZ: Then, of course, we film the nominee’s new life after the transformation… and that’s where the real NHJ reward is!


9 The National Hair Journall Fall 2009 Over the years, The National Hair Journal has published many articles on the importance of “branding.” This is not an abstract marketing concept, it is the way a company or product defines itself. Its success is measured by the interest, respect and affection with George Fettig which it is perceived by the public. In the hair industry, there is probably no company that is better known or more identified with the specialist service it provides than Bosley. One word says it all. Hair Club for Men achieved similar visibility, but the company’s advertising focus has wav-ered with changes of ownership. Both companies built their brands around the charisma of their founders; Sy Sperling at Hair Club and Dr. Bosley at the medical group that still bears his name today. To find out what it takes to build and maintain a unique brand identity, The Journal approached George Fettig, the man who has steered Bosley marketing and advertising for the last ten years and whose team is responsible for making the company the most recognizable hair restoration brand in the world today. The following is his summary of the strategic thinking and long-term vision that went into building the Bosley brand. Thirty five years ago, L. Lee Bosley M.D., didn’t set out to “build a brand”, he simply wanted to take his personal interest in the emerging science

BOSLEY THE BUILDING OF A BRAND By George Fettig

Brand Image The image of Dr. Bosley himself has always been closely associated with the brand, and that was by design. Research shows that Dr. Bosley’s physical likeness was not only appealing to prospective patients, but he was often described as looking kind, experienced and trustworthy, having a “Dr. Welby” like quality. This was an important finding for the early marketing directors at Bosley, as print advertising was the medium of choice for the early brand campaign. In the seventies, with offices in several major markets, local newspaper and Yellow Pages advertising was sufficient to drive local demand. In those early days, the concept of hair restoration was so

services and its founder in all of its advertising, Bosley has greatly increased its opportunity for maximum ad recall and brand name retention. Television-Maximizing Brand Exposure In the early nineties, Bosley broke new ground again and produced its first 30-minute infomercial. Industry “experts” viewed this as a potentially risky venture. Infomercials were expensive to produce and no one knew how a 30-minute infomercial explaining a new medical procedure would be received by the public. Infomercials were normally associated with inexpensive housewares and exercise products of dubious quality. Moreover, they typically targeted female audiences whereas the Bosley infomercial would speak to a predominantly male audience. However, the combination of an authoritative, yet compassionate delivery of the basic scientific and medical information coupled with numerous real patient testimonials with compelling “before” and “after” photographs, stimulated market interest and generated tens of thousands of phone calls requesting free information about Bosley hair restoration. While the Bosley infomercial was hugely successful in generating consumer response, great care was also taken to reinforce and protect the Bosley brand image. The infomercials were shot on film rather than video tape, to present the highest quality image possible—more like a documentary than a late night infomercial. Bosley was well on its way to becoming a household word based on the power of television. As time passed and the company continued to expand, Bosley was able to take advantage of the efficiencies of regional and national cable television advertising strategies. By this time, the company had included 60-second advertising spots in the media mix in more widely viewed day parts, further expanding the reach of its message and thereby building brand awareness.

of hair transplantation and build a successful medical enterprise, to help his patients and to provide for his family. Thirty-five years later, the brand name BOSLEY is recognized throughout the United States, not only for its excellence in the science and artistry of hair restoration, but also for its innovative approach to marketing its services— and building and maintaining a very specific brand image. Dr. Bosley was a true innovator, not only as an early pioneer and proponent of hair transplantation science and medicine, but he intuitively recognized that patient communication and education would become key factors in his growth and success. Moreover, Bosley recognized that the same quality, care and consistency that were essential to providing a successful medical service, should also guide the primary communications to the public.

new and exciting that the response to the early print ads was nearly overwhelming. In the late eighties and early nineties, the company had become widespread enough to support regional magazine advertising and some well-targeted national publications (primarily bodybuilding, health and airline magazines). In advertising, as in most things, image is important. Dr. Bosley became the public face and image of his company. We feel that the brand resonates with the consumer because of Dr. Bosley’s obvious connection with the brand. To remain strong, a brand image must be continuously reinforced in all commutations. Advertising pioneer David Ogilvy once said, “Every advertisement should be thought of as further contribution to the brand’s

Effective advertising and communications quickly became hallmarks of the Bosley business model to the concern of medical legislators who frowned upon the prospect of doctors “advertising their services.” However, Bosley not only believed that they had a right to advertise, they also felt it was their professional duty to make patients aware of this important new medical technology. Eventually, after several years (and a few regulatory skirmishes), the Medical board agreed, and Bosley became the groundbreaker that prepared the way for the medical and legal communities to advertise their services to the public. Consistent and far-reaching advertising plans not only helped establish the Bosley brand firmly in the minds of consumers, but also helped to build the category and create consumer demand for an exciting new medical service. Bosley’s advertising strategies were always adapted to the times and to the particular marketing challenges at hand. The company steadily grew and the strategies and communication tactics continued to evolve.

Brand Positioning Throughout this period of national expansion, Bosley’s brand positioning remained clear, concise and consistent. Bosley was. “The World’s most Experienced Hair Restoration Expert”. This simple statement based on the fact that no other company has performed more hair restoration procedures than Bosley (over 200,000), has anchored all

Bosley advertising and promotional messages for over 20 years. The positioning allows Bosley to differentiate itself along a critical dimension in surgical medicine - experience.

image.” Ogilvy further states, “Research has demonstrated that a shocking percentage of TV viewers remember your commercial, but actually forget the name of the product.” By seamlessly integrating the name of the company, its medical

Brand Awareness Bosley has advertised its brand, in print, on radio, or television, continuously without hiatus for 35 years. In fact, Bosley was known in the industry for having one of the longest running ad campaigns in direct response television history. The result of this continuous exposure is that Bosley is the most recognized brand of surgical hair restoration in the world. In recent United States brand awareness study conducted be EPoll, more than 6

out of 10 men in the target audience recognized the name Bosley and could correctly identify it as a hair restoration company. Brand Development in Cyberspace By the late nineties, the Internet was beginning to emerge as an essential part of any sophisticated marketing program. Bosley built its first website in 1999 and added the URL Bosley.com to all of its advertising. Today, over 37% of the company’s leads and nearly 56% of initial procedures are generated via an online marketing initiative. Much of this lead activity is driven by the company’s extensive TV campaign, as viewers often turn directly to the company’s web site to get more information. In fact, Bosley.com alone accounts for 16% of the company’s inquiries and over 30% of initial procedures. Bosley’s Internet marketing includes numerous media channels including Search Engine Marketing, Search Engine Optimization, E-mail, Affiliate Marketing programs, display advertising and Social Media networks. Bosley’s advertising and brand positioning are very synergistic. Great care is taken to have consistency in look, feel and message in all off-line and on-line marketing strategies. This cross channel consistency is an essential element of brand development and brand image control. Extending the Brand One of the main advantages of building a brand with strong consumer recognition is that the brand positioning is often transferable to additional products or services, further expanding the overall awareness and thus creating more overall value for

the brand and the company. In addition to Bosley surgical Hair Restoration services, the brand has already been extended to a complete line of Bosley products marketed to patients and prospective patients under the “Bosley True Solutions” brand. The line includes a Bosley branded LaserComb, Topical Hair Regrowth Treatment, shampoo, conditioner and nutritional supplements. Product Licensing Earlier this year, Bosley reached a licensing agreement with a newly formed salon product company, (Scientific Hair Research, LLC) to produce a line of high quality cosmetic and therapeutic salon products marketed under the brand name “Bosley Professional Strength.” The company’s principals are all long established salon industry insiders with experience in research and development, production, sales, marketing and distribution to the salon industry. It is expected that Bosley Professional Strength salon products will eventually be sold in 35,000 styling salons in North America, further exposing the Bosley brand to millions of men and women with thinning hair. The recent ISHRS 2009 Census indicated that one of the top sources of new Hair Restoration procedures was from “Hairstylist/Barber” referrals. The synergistic opportunity for the Bosley business is obvious. In the future... Bosley will continue to develop, extend and protect its most valuable asset, the Bosley brand, through refinement of its advertising message, more aggressive on-line marketing, including social media strategies, refreshed and compelling creative messages. Bosley will continue to keep abreast of consumer reaction and attitudes through sound consumer research studies, including patient satisfaction, consumer segmentation and brand awareness. Most importantly, Bosley recognizes its leadership role in continuing to educate the market, drive consumer awareness and to build greater demand for hair restoration services for all practitioners to enjoy in the future. George Fettig, VP Marketing, Bosley has helped develop many nationally known brands, such as Dial soap, Armour Meats and NordicTrack. His 35 year marketing career has been equally divided between traditional brand image marketing and direct response advertising. This unique experience and perspective has helped him guide the Bosley brand to its current position of national prominence. George joined Bosley in 1999. He earned is BA and MBA from Northeastern University in Boston, and currently serves on the board of directors of the Electronic Retailing Association (ERA).


10 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

are her best option. While chemicals and dyes would damage the clients’ hair, professional hair extensions will give them what they want time and time again! The NEW Adhesive Extensions - SO.CAP. USA Hair Extensions is the first manufacturer to offer a new adhesive hair extension application. These 100% human hair extensions adhere temporarily to your client’s natural hair, are sealed with a special iron and can be easily removed with a solvent. They are available in three lengths, two textures and 53 hair color shades - making them an option for everyone! They are great for people who want a permanent approach but are on a budget, or timid clients who want to transition into a new hairstyle. The best thing about these extensions - they are reusable! Wefts - Human hair wefts are ideal for women who do not have much time for hairstyling but want a specific look or a special upstyle. Wefts offer your clients a fast and easy technique. You simply attach the 100% human hair weft using comb clips that are already attached to the hair, style and they are ready to go. You can add length, volume, haircolor, highlights and texture in only a few minutes and offer it as either a salon

Extending the Hair Addition Market

bond to maintain the health and vitality of your natural hair. Keratin is the same protein our natural hair produces. Warm fusion is the traditional strand by strand method. If your client opts for a warm fusion bonding, make sure you pay close attention to placement and flow of the natural hair to create a perfect 100% keratin bond. Undetectable bonds can only be achieved by using the highest quality hair and bonding equipment. The latest technology in hair extension bonding is cold fusion. This professional bonding method is great for fine and thinning hair because the extensions can be applied closer to the scalp, allowing for longer wear.

By Hannah Mayo

The hair extension industry is no longer limited to bonded or clip-in hair extensions! Professional hair extensionists now have access to a new generation of quality products that will cater to anyone’s budget and needs. As salon owners, hair designers, hair replacement experts and hair extensionists, it is our job to educate clients about every option available to them – new or old. 100% Remy Human Hair Extensions 100% human hair extensions are the highest quality extensions you can provide. There is no cuticle on Remy hair and all the hair lays in one direction. The greatest benefit of human hair extensions is that you can blow dry, curl, straighten, color, texturize and style them just as you would your natural hair. They can be bonded with the warm or even the new cold fusion method which lasts much longer and is more reliable. Both bonding systems should use a keratin

The Clip-In Extensions - Not every client wants human hair extensions with keratin tips. Sometimes they want something they can apply at home for special occasions or nights on the town between salon visits. So teach your clients how easily clip-on hair extensions can transform a boring hairstyle into something dramatic. With clip-ons, your clients may want to invest in different hair colors, lengths and textures. Ron Cardillo, Sr., a hair extension expert, comments, “Many times, recommending clip-on hair extensions is the perfect way to have your client test a new haircolor shade before they commit to a semi-permanent or a permanent solution.” If you’ve been to any tradeshows lately, you have seen that clip-in and bonded hair extensions are now also being used in the fashion industry to create avant-garde hairstyles. SO.CAP. USA Hair Extensions were used in two seasons of the Bravo Series Shear Genius to create magazine cover and runway hairstyles. So, if you have that ‘out there’ client that constantly wants to try something new, hair extensions

service or a take-home retail product! For a more permanent hairstyle, sew-in wefts are also available. Wigs - Over 70 million people today are experiencing the visual and emotional effects of hair loss. In the past, wigs were often seen as an undesirable option due to their unnatural look and tendency to shift. Today it’s a different story. Top quality wigs use real human hair and new adhesives to ensure secure placement. Many salons, day spas and hair replacement centers today offer professional wigs, creating a fast growing new profit center. Don’t stay in the slow lane! The hair extension industry is growing and growing fast. With new products and technology every year, it is up to you to keep your clients upto-date and eager for the latest and greatest in hair fashion.

Hannah Mayo is a Marketing Director at Marketing Solutions, headquartered in Fairfax, VA. Marketing Solutions creates advertising, marketing and PR programs for salons, spas, medical clinics, manufacturers and distributors across North America. www.MktgSols.com.


11 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

Studio Branding

(cont. from pg. 6)

much about your studio itself. So what do you care? As long as people respond to your commercial and you get a lot of leads, and you can sell some of them, what difference does it make, right? I’m reminded about the old poster by McGraw-Hill. It was originally an ad that ran in trade publications urging advertisers to buy space in its many magazines. The poster shows a curmudgeonly, middle-aged executive, wearing a pin striped suit and a scowl. Under his foreboding photo were these words: “I don’t know you. I don’t know who you are. I don’t know what your company does. I don’t anything about your company itself. I don’t know any of your company’s customers. Now, what was it you wanted to sell me?” You get the picture: obviously, it’s easier to sell somebody something when they know a bit about you. Why wouldn’t you want to brand your studio? Assuming your studio does good work, and has satisfied clients that are happy with what you do for them, why in the world wouldn’t you want everybody to know about it? What I’m saying is that in all probability, you’ve worked very hard for a long time to make your studio what it is. You’re probably also very justifiably proud of your shop. So, why keep it a secret? Don’t you think that if people already knew about you before they even decided to do something about their hair loss that they might one day come to you for a solution? In the case of people who did respond to an ad or commercial you ran, don’t you think that if they called that they’d be more likely to come in for a consultation if they had a positive perception? And then if those people were to come in, wouldn’t those individuals be more likely to buy if they thought they knew whom they were buying from? Pretty much a no-brainer, isn’t it? And now you know why “branding” is the hot marketing term of the last decade. Of course, you’re probably thinking, “well, sure, I’d love to brand my studio, but I really can’t afford the money.” But actually you can. More on that later. Why NOW is the time to brand. First, media is relatively cheap right now due to the recession. Television stations and cable operators are more than willing to negotiate, so is print media. You could end up paying 30% less, maybe even 40% less, than you did a little over a year ago. Two, the move to offering multiple therapies to both men and women lends itself to a branding approach. You’re not selling one product or service, you’re selling many. So in effect, you’d be wise to sell your studio as a one stop shopping enterprise for people with hair loss, as opposed to advertising different products and services to different market segments. Three, do it before your competitor does. Again, the move to multiple therapies and to targeting both men and women is going to lead a lot of studios in the Hair Club direction. You want to get in consumers’ minds as the single source for all hair replacement therapies…before your competition does. In other words, you don’t want to be “the other guys”. Four, your message will stand out better. This is almost a corollary to item number “three” above. The fact is that due to the bad economy, a lot of hair studios have stopped

advertising. A fact proven time and again is that businesses that continue to advertise in a recession (when their competitors don’t) gain market share. Even better, when good times return, most competitors can’t get that share back, no matter how much they spend. If your competition has pulled back its advertising, there is no better time to brand your studio than right now. Period. How to brand your studio Basically, in branding you’re trying to convey some information about your studio that will create positive imagery. This can be as simple as adding a few words to an ad: “Serving the (TOWN NAME) community for over three decades.” Of course, telling people what you offer can also help brand your studio. I spoke earlier about studios offering multiple therapies today. If you were to say in your advertising, “we offer every hair loss solution available today to solve every man and woman’s hair loss problem”—something along those lines—people would definitely get the idea that you’re a total provider. Now, don’t get the idea that branding is just telling straight facts. You could have original music written for your studio, use it on TV and radio, and depending upon the music and how it was used, you’d have a definite branding opportunity. Photographic or any type of visual imagery can also build a brand. A very arresting visual, repeated time and again with the right words, is a less direct but highly memorable way to brand. Yet another way is to basically “let people

into your studio”, by using advertising as a way to acquaint the target audience with you, your staff, your offices, maybe a few of your clients; his has to be done deftly and in context, but it could add a rather warm and human element to your brand. How to brand your studio economically You can’t have a brand, no matter what business you’re in, if you don’t have awareness. Somehow, people have to learn who you are and what you do, it’s a simple as that. The most obvious way to brand your studio is to hire an advertising agency or a good production house with an accomplished copywriter, tell them what you want, get some scripts back to review, settle on an approach, maybe even have music scored for your commercial. Of course, that’s going to cost you a good $50,000, and that’s not counting your media budget. Don’t worry, there are cheaper ways. In the first place, you don’t necessarily need TV to brand yourself. But you do need some paid media or at the very least, a good PR agency. Public relations is certainly a method of branding. But you need a lot of exposure and what you’d have to pay a PR firm would be more than you’d spend on a midlevel TV budget. Print does work. What you need is a consistent message that is largely graphic in nature. Small space ads in appropriate sections of the newspaper, done on a regu-

lar basis, will build your awareness. Billboards or any out of home medium also sends itself to branding. A billboard or two on selected highways close to your location would be a good start. The price is dependent upon the number of “views” those billboards receive. The busier the thoroughfare, the bigger the price, naturally. Radio commercials are a very good way to communicate your branding message. Plus, radio commercials are very inexpensive to produce. What you might think about doing is going to a stock music house to license a piece of original music as a background or sign-off for your commercial. You’ll probably pay around $300—$500, but again, it’s something you can “own”, and associate with your business. Even though television is perceived as expensive, it’s still the most cost effective way to reach a mass audience. So how can you make a commercial that is uniquely yours, and still have money left over to run it on TV? Two of the solutions involved in turning to a hair manufacturer. The On Rite Company, who I consult for, has a marketing program out called Corrective Hair Solutions that includes television commercials that are customized to the individual studio’s brand message. You provide still photos, even video if you like, and On Rite will produce it for you; I believe you get three TV commercials and three radio commercials for around $5,000. Another route is to go to any manufacturer who offers TV commercials and utilize their (cont. on pg. 20) footage in conjunction


12 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

A Free Spirit Called Lucinda If you’ve met Lucinda Beaty, the title of this article already has you nodding in agreement. If you’ve not yet had that privilege, keep reading and you’ll see what we mean. Lucinda can dance you under the table, race you down black-diamond ski slopes, cruise alongside you on her Harley, dare you to join her in a shark cage – and when she’s done playing, she’ll give her time for free to chemo patients and women with special needs. How they fit such a big heart in such a petite body remains a mystery, but we feel privileged to be telling her story in the Hair Journal. On being motivated - I get up excited. I put my feet on the floor, and I’m ready to go. There are so many new things in life that are exciting and not enough time, so I try to squeeze them all in. New Products - I really want to keep up on technology and products. I like to offer the latest things to my clients. You need to be always looking forward if you’re going to take it to the next level. We just came back from the International Hair Show and I’ve got lots of new toys and new products to play with. I met some exciting educators as well. Trade Shows - I attend them all. It’s very important to keep your staff motivated. I took both of my girls to New York, and they’ve come with me to the Cyberhair and On Rite shows. We try to make them all. We went to New Image last year. Planning Ahead – I always have a plan. I decide what I want to see, where I need to be, and then I follow my program. I make appointments with people ahead of time. This way I get special attention and they can show me everything. My latest toys - I’ve got an electric razor that cauterizes the cuticle. This year they came out with a cordless version. That was very exciting. It cuts like butter; it’s beautiful. Now they have razors that are un-notched so you can taper out. When we work with wigs and hairpieces, it tapers them out beautifully. Then there’s this system that puts tape behind the cape, so it doesn’t let hair or color seep down the neck. Little things; but things that make a difference. Visiting the hair factories – I’ve always wanted to see the factories. I think you were my motivator because you have your hand on the pulse of things. I never knew so much science and technology went into making a hair system until I saw it face to face. Now I know my clients are getting their money’s worth with every hair product they buy. This was a smart investment. When I’m not working – I want to be the best at everything I do. I’m a professional ski instructor, level II, and I actually taught 100 hours last year. I have a cute motorcycle that was custom-made. It’s a Harley, fashioned after a ‘57 FLH. One summer, I swam with the sharks. The dive instructor took me to a cage where they were feeding the sharks. I had a bunch of fish and I was so excited I went swimming right up to the sharks and he had to grab my foot because he was getting nervous. I don’t have a whole lot of fear. I have knowledge of getting hurt, but I’m careful. I have bungee-jumped, but no parachuting yet. I was supposed to do parachuting last year, but we weren’t able to set up a date to do it. Now I don’t know if it’s possible because I hurt my knee skiing. Helping others - I did two “Look Good…Feel Betters” on Monday. I do at least two every month. Back at the salon, I

like to give clients a total image consultation and always suggest alternate solutions. It’s important to give them alternatives so they can make an intelligent decision. There’s so much to think about; synthetic versus human… versus cyber… handversus made… versus machine-made. These people are already traumatized by the hair loss; they have to make a good decision. It’s not about selling something. I want my clients to feel good from inside out. Professional affiliations - I have commitments to several organizations. Some I’ve been involved with for over 20 years. I was one of the first people to get certified for “Look Good…Feel Better.” That was in 1991. I received the Better Business Bureau award last year; that was very exciting. I was the first charter member of The National Hair Society… I wrote the very first check. I’ve gone to the Alopecia Foundation for at least 15 years. I want to help these children because I see kids with God-awful wigs and I know I can design something better for them. I once asked Cyberhair to make a small cap wig for some children, which they did. That was very touching. Tough times - I’ve had accidents too you know… and almost not made it. After something like that happens, you can relate to people who are going through hard times. Tough times never last, but tough people do. I try to motivate my clients to get past whatever they’re going through because it is only temporary. Once you’ve been that route, you don’t take life so seriously. You find something to enjoy every single day. Still politically active - I belong to the Chamber. I’m active trying to change laws that help people who can’t help themselves. There’s a picture of me in Washington; we were there trying to help alopecia patients get insurance reimbursement. I know most people are more concerned with funding research, but I’m always trying to get results here and now. We’ve had some success. In my state, Connecticut, hair loss victims now receive $350.00 reimbursement if they have insurance. Soft economy? Says who… We’re not having a problem. Last November, there was a little downturn, but we’re back up there. We

have a lot of marketing tools and we do a lot of P.R. I’ve been in business forever, so people know who I am. Word of mouth is my best asset. “Why can’t we all just get along?” – In this industry, people have to be more honest and open with one another. Everyone’s so defensive and protective. Meanwhile business opportunities are passing us by. Before the Hair Journal, there was no information, now at least we know what’s going on. But why aren’t the manufacturers working alongside the Hair Society to promote our industry with a campaign, like “Got Milk” or “I Love New York?” It’s okay to be guarded with your company secrets, but we’re never going to grow if we don’t pull together. About women in hair replacement – More women own and manage hair replacement salons today. That’s good for clients because women are more style-conscious and they understand the importance of good service. Today’s hairstyles are driven by the media; it’s all about film stars and music. People are into creativity. That’s why extensions are so popular. It’s not your men’s toupee. It’s your graft. It’s so much better than hair of years ago. How it all began – I was 18 when I began. I was a very creative hair cutter. Every Monday my employer used to make me cut wigs all day long because I was good at it. That’s what got me into the hair cutting industry. I was lucky to work alongside some of the best people … the Chadwicks, Paul Mitchell, Vidal Sassoon. These are all people I took classes with. I used to tour with the Cosmetologist Association and the team of stylists competing for the Hair Olympics. I went for ten years straight. One year, I was asked to be the photographer for their world tour, so I started doing photography too. The middle years – When I was 24/25 years old, I had 12 stylists and a business partner. We separated later and I bought him out or he bought me out... I don’t know which. It was good while it lasted. We just put it on a napkin one day, found a location and took out a bank loan. I was single at the time; it was just what I wanted. Changing the law – We put unisex on the books. We were on the committee that helped change the law. We went to Hartford and fought the barbers’ union. Since we were active in the cosmetology association we had plenty of lobbyists. In those days, the law was very restrictive. Cosmetologists were licensed to permanent-wave, singe, fringe and color women’s hair. Barber stylists were licensed to shoeshine, shave and cut a man’s hair. We wanted to change that. Barbers said, “Women can’t cut men’s hair because they’ll be sexual.” I told the judge, “When I have a razor in my hand, they just want a haircut.” It took many years and a lot of money to change the law. I was the first one to cut men’s hair in a beauty salon. We weren’t beauty salons anymore. We were unisex. Hair Journal at 30,000ft - Every year is a challenge. That’s what makes it exciting. I have to know what’s going on and how to be part of it. I love reading The Journal. I take it on the plane when I go to a seminar. A new Journal comes out just in time for me to get on the plane with it. With my hectic lifestyle, timing’s everything! NHJ


13 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009


14 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

CyberWorld 2009 The pictures say it all!

Cyber-folk are a very special bunch. Most of them have been close friends for over 10 years and it shows whenever they get together. They have special customs like the annual “muckers” contest… and a very unique product. It is, of course, the patent protected man-made hair called Cyberhair and they get together every twelve months to applaud the latest product updates and share styling tips. This year’s conference took place in Minneapolis and IHI president, Peter Gensler and VP, technical director, Darla Smith, greeted everybody on the evening of June 13th at a welcome reception at the Sofitel hotel. The next two days were filled with technical classes, marketing workshops and presentations from guest instructors. Emily Hanka led off with a powerful presentation, “Opportunity Is Knocking... Are You Ready?” Emily is a senior executive with a Minnetonka consulting group and her second presentation was entitled, “Eliminate Roadblocks to Increase Business Opportunities.” Wrapping up two days of education and networking, Chris Webb from The National Hair Journal presented an analysis of market trends and new technologies. Of course, there were hands-on classes for stylists at all

levels. Michelle Schumm shared her MicroPoint Solutions skills and Darla Smith demonstrated hair styling and design techniques featuring the Amy’s Presence collection of women’s wigs, helped by O’Neil Carson from California. Opportunities in the important ethnic market were presented by the dynamic and glamorous Kathleen Leonard. Much has been written about cross marketing and the business opportunities available through corporate alliances and community involvement. Stephanie Williams and Bethany Straub from DK International illustrated the possibilities in their presentation, “Directional Marketing.” And yes, there were awards. Plenty of awards! Every prize recipient had their photograph taken and some of them are shown here. For those who did not win a trophy, they still got to have that picture taken because a professional photographer was on hand throughout Sunday evening - all they had to do was step in front of the camera and remember to smile. However, it is the photographs that really capture the essence of CyberWorld 2009. Just take a look. You see smiles, you see camaraderie and you see pride in representing a distinctive product. What more could you ask?


15 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009


16 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

The Instant Makeover Every Woman Craves Wigs are not COOL; they’re HOT! Women have mixed opinions about wigs and hairpieces. Many women eagerly embrace them, while others have yet to learn how added hair can enhance their natural beauty. It is time

tery into any woman’s life, letting her express her individuality and personality. But added hair is not just for the adventurous. Conservative women also enjoy wigs because they let her

and lowlights. Better yet, they will not damage your client’s hair. Wigs and hairpieces serve many purposes. Many women wear them as fashion statements and others use wigs to remain beautiful while covering their heads for religious reasons. Celebrities turn to beauty wigs and hairpieces to complete their red carpet look, while some highpowered women in Europe treat wigs as a musthave in their wardrobe, next to their Hermes bag and Chanel shoes. If you’re a businesswoman, a wig or hairpiece will ensure you look beautiful and professional early in the morning, when you go to a meeting right after the gym, or for a for-

84% Patients Show Benefit San Diego, CA, 07/09 - Histogen, Inc., a regenerative medicine company developing solutions based on the products of newborn fibroblasts grown under embryonic conditions, shared the results of the Company’s preliminary clinical trial of Histogen’s HSC human hair regrowth product at the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons (ISHRS) Annual Scientific Meeting. Dr. Craig Ziering, principal investigator on the clinical trial, told attendees that 84.6% of the patients receiving one injection of Histogen’s serum-free HSC showed an increase in terminal hair 12 weeks post-injection, with a statistically significant (p<0.05) increase in the number of terminal hairs, cumulative hair thickness density and hair thickness mean. Perturbation did not enhance the results seen with HSC. There were no adverse reactions seen in any of the treated 24 patients at baseline, 12 weeks, or the 22 week endpoint. Histogen, launched in 2007, seeks to redefine regenerative medicine by developing a series of high value products that do not contain embryonic stem cells or animal components.

Video Blog “From Bald to Bold A Patient’s Journal”

for them to take a fresh look at the exciting new opportunities available today with premium quality European hair, salon wigs and hair pieces. Salon and day spa professionals can help them discover this timeless secret. Michael Leigh, president of Follea, international women’s wig company states, “The bottom line is that nothing changes the look of a woman as dramatically and quickly as her hair. A change in hairstyle has more impact on her appearance than plastic surgery. It can provide the instant makeover every woman craves.” Wigs and hairpieces provide an easy way for salon professionals to bring freshness and mys-

maintain a proven hairstyle, giving her peace of mind and security just in case the next haircut does not make her happy. There are many ways you can introduce salon quality wigs and hairpieces into your clients’ daily lives. Women who love bangs can benefit from undetectable added bangs that can be easily applied (or removed) whenever they want. Volumizers work well for thin or flat hair. These hairpieces have holes in them so clients can pull their natural hair through and get a result similar to salon hair extensions. Volumizers are easier to add and remove than hair extensions and they are a great way to add chemical-free highlights

mal dinner at the end of the day. Regardless of the occasion, women are learning that added hair can help them look beautiful any time, any place with minimal effort. Fashion is often considered a fad, yet beauty is forever. A top quality hairpiece will help your clients capture their beauty every day, regardless of any current hair or fashion trend. Hairpieces are more than a costume piece or high profile fashion accessory; they are a timeless beauty product. Remember, “The next time you help your clients with their current hairstyle, or discuss a new look, tell them how they can make every NHJ day a special occasion!

Boca Raton, FL. 06/09 -In a world where sharing information is more important than ever before, those who suffer from hair loss now have a place to go to discuss hair loss treatments. Julian White, who recently underwent hair transplantation with Dr. Jon Gaffney, a Hair Club managed physician, wants to share his journey with other hair loss sufferers. Visitors will be able to follow Julian through his hair transplant blog, complete with video, pictures and personal stories. The new forum, called “From Bald to Bold - A Patient’s Journal,” gives users the opportunity to see and read about Julian’s experience leading up to and after his hair transplant. Julian hopes this will take some of the mystery out of hair restoration and help alleviate any concerns that might exist. Hair Club is the largest company in the hair management industry with more than 95 locations throughout the United States, Canada, and Puerto Rico. The company was founded in 1976 by Sy Sperling, known by the trademark phrase “I’m not just the president, I’m also a client.”


17 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

THE NATIONAL HAIR JOURNAL Mission - Mission - To provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will allow better business decision-making and facilitate superior client service.

Editor In Chief Christopher Webb cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com

Want to Sell Your Business?

Creative Director Avi Roth aroth@nationalhairjournal.com

Technical Advisors

Trying to Build a Network?

Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin

Contributing Correspondents James Britt Marilyn Dodds Steven Dimanni Dawn Harrison Phil Fennell Gloria Ford Bobbi Russell Larry Sellars James Toscano Marilyn Wayne

Membership Director Heather Simon hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com

Call Hair Synergies. Professional Advisors in Mergers & Acquisitions with over 15 years of experience in the hair industry. Inquiries treated in strictest confidence.

NE Regional Director Catherine Ingoglia

CA Regional Director Edmarie Masters

European Director Hans Diks SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe to The National Hair Journal, send an Email to subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com or visit www.nationalhairsociety.org/store. You can also write to us at the address at the bottom of this column or call 1-951571-3209. ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 1-951256-4385 HOW TO CONTACT US National Hair Group 39252 Winchester Rd., # 107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563. Telephone: 951-541-2809 news@nationalhairjournal.com subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com advertising@nationalhairjournal.com LEGAL NOTICE Notice: The National Hair Journal , Issue number 51Copyright ©2009. All rights reserved. The views expressed herein are those of the individual author and are not necessarily those of The National Hair Journal, its editor, directors, or staff. All authors have been asked to disclose any and all interests they have in a product, procedure or device referenced in, or otherwise potentially impacted by, an article. The National Hair Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee, or other representations, express or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided. To the extent permissible under applicable laws, The National Hair Journal specifically disclaims responsibility for any injury and/or damage to persons or property as a result of an author’s statements or materials or the use or operation of any ideas, instructions, procedures, products or methods. Moreover, the publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair Journal a guaranty or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or of any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. All articles and editorials become the property of The National Hair Journal and may be edited for clarity and space. By allowing your tips, interviews and testimonies to be used in The National Hair Journal, you are giving The National Hair Journal permission to use your quotes and related materials including but not limited to model photographs and the likes. The National Hair Journal will gladly accept unsolicited material for review and submission for possible print publication. We encourage clinics and salons to submit photos from events, testimonials and happenings within the hair replacement, hair restoration, and beauty industry via email to cwebb@nationalhairjournal.com for publication. Please note, The National Hair Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material we select for publication, but we will give credit research, written articles and photography. If credits are to be given for photos, stories, literature and other materials submitted it is the sole responsibility of the submitting party of said materials to include all pertinent information listed herein for which acknowledgement is expected. Unless otherwise specified, all materials submitted to The National Hair Journal becomes intellectual property of The National Hair Journal. Any material that is to b returned to the submitter must be pre-authorized and submitted with a self-addressed, return envelope/package and sufficient postage. The National Hair Journal is a privately published publication intended to facilitate the free exchange of information among professionals within the hair management industry. Its contents are solely the opinions of the authors and are not formally “peer reviewed” before publication. The contents of this publication are not to be quoted with the above disclaimer. The material published in The National Hair Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form with the express written consent of the Editor(s).

The National Hair Journal is published Quarterly, Copyright © 2009 by The National Hair Journal, LLC, Single copies of most past issues of The National Hair Journal are available prepaid at $10.00 per copy. Special issues are more. The National Hair Journal serves primarily the hair replacement , hair restoration and personal enhancement industries. It sponsors conferences and trade events and produces analysis & marketing research on the hair replacement and restoration industries. Postmaster: Please send address changes to: The National Hair Journal, LLC 39252 Winchester Rd., #107-383, Murrieta, CA 92563 Printed in the USA.

HAIR SYNERGIES LLC

212-888-2005


18 The National Hair Journal Summer 2009

Hair Society News

INTERVIEWS WITH OUR USA MEMBERS

www.nationalhairsociety.org

Welcome to our Fall 2009 coverage of The National Hair Society.

announce. Expect some dramatic news from the ScalpLaser team too... plus a new product from Korvue!

Advanced Hair Technologies is owned by Daryl and Judy Grecian and is located in Hiawatha, Iowa. The business has gone through many

Cruising To New Profit Opportunities - The National Don’t Miss Out! For those of you who have been Hair Society is hoping to see Heather Simon reading the Society updates in many of you at, “Cruising with the Stars,” the big educational event tak- The Hair Journal over the years but are ing place on October 22nd-26th in Ft. not yet members, why not support your Lauderdale, FL. If you have any ques- industry and join The Society today. tions about registering, please let me New changes are taking place within the know. For more information, please visit market every day and you want to make Judy and Daryl Grecian

Cruise to new Profit Opportunities – You asked for it – you got it! On October 22nd some of the top experts in the hair industry set sail with salon owners and managers to discuss new opportunities in the fast-changing hair market. Most hair conferences last two days and each presenter is on stage for 60 minutes. But when you go “Cruising with the stars” they are with you every day, every moment for four days! This is a very special opportunity to talk oneon-one with people who can change your future. You will also network with other forward-looking managers like yourself and explore joint ventures, coop-marketing… and lots of other things only you can think of! The recession of 2009 may make people tighten their belts, but it will not take their desire for hair. So how do you help them protect the hair they’ve got while they plan their next step? Is it laser therapy, or Revivogen? Do you recommend an FDA approved medication like Minoxidil or Propecia? Or is it a custom program combining a selection of the above? Our stars will share strategies to support today’s hair loss sufferers who will become tomorrow’s clients. And you will be introduced to new market opportunities and taught how to help women in need. A specialist will tell you how to connect with the clinics and hospitals that urgently need our services, then work with medical insurance companies. Do you have a laser? Do you know how to use it to grow your business? Are you FDA compliant? If you want to be part of the light-therapy market, this is your chance to spend time with two top laser pros and, with apologies to Randy Veliky and Don Osendowski, get the facts from the horse’s mouth. If you are serious about the future, you must be aboard the Cruise with the Stars in October. See the ad in this issue for enrolment information!

the registration website at www.regonline.com /cruisingwiththestars. One Marquee-Two EventsIn a letter to The National Hair Journal, I explain that The Society is sharing “Cruising with the Stars” with European Hair so our members don’t have to travel back and forth across the country to attend two separate events. Sharing a location doesn’t mean we endorse or recommend one manufacturer over another – the place to do that is The National Hair Journal, and it’s called ‘advertising.’ On the cruise, we will be offering technical updates and training from leading laser and software developers - and, of course, our own Society faculty members, Jimmy (“The General”) Toscano and Bobbi Russell will be there to share their creative skills. European Hair has a separate agenda and they tell us they have some exciting products to

Please Welcome Our Newest Wholesale Member

I would like to introduce our newest Wholesale Member, Natureal Paris, Ltd. They are introducing a new synthetic wig line. Natureal fiber is heat resistant, using polymer technology and can be dried,

sure you are up to date and compliant with the latest regulations and standards. Of course, we also offer special promotions and discounts, access to the Society website and links to a network of other professionals who are ready to share their tips, knowledge and experience. Integrity is key to your business and your clients. This is your industry and by joining The Society you are supporting your industry. Please visit www.nationalhairsociety.org and read the About Us section for more information. You can sign up through the website or you can contact me directly at 951-571-3209 or via e-mail at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com for more information. This is a great time to start making changes. Make the right change and join The Society! Note: You can post comments as a member OR non member to the Society Blog at www.hairsociety.blogspot.com. curled, straightened or styled like human hair. There are 14 different styles and 11 colors available. The product is available in 5 sizes (50D, 52D, 54D, 56D, 58D). Their wigs are delivered in a convenient and stylish value pack which includes Natureal medical tape, partial comb, head net and a style and care guide. I will be sending out more information to everyone via mail. In the meantime, please visit the website at www.mynatureal.com or contact Spencer Cheung at spencercheung@mynatureal.com.

changes within the past year. As many of you know from last year, their hair replacement studio in Cedar Rapids, Iowa was flooded beyond repair. They have been able to open up a new studio in Hiawatha and business is steadily improving. Daryl has been in the hair replacement industry since 1970. When he attended his first training, he thought he it was a regular hair styling class but instead it was hair replacement training given by a gentleman from New York City. Daryl became interested in the hair replacement industry and started training all over the U.S., Canada, Europe and Asia. He has received many awards in his career, but the most important to him was

Styling Room

given by the Guest Artist and Hair Stylists Association in 1981 for hair stylist of the year. Advanced Hair Technologies has two employees. D. Visecky is an assistant to Daryl and prepares the clients by removing the bonding agents. She has been with Advanced Hair Technologies for 2 years. They also have a massage therapist who started recently. Judy Grecian handles the book keeping. The flood in Cedar Rapids, IA last year, caused $100,000 in damage to the Grecian’s salon. Unfortunately, Daryl did not have flood insurance

Say Hello To Our Latest Retail Society Members Exterior of Advanced Hair Technologies

New Members Not Pictured: Flora Fuentes and Richard Martin

Kathleen & Richard Theodore

because even after the worst storms, the waters had never risen to dangerous levels in the past. Fortunately, Daryl and Judy were able to find a temporary location right away so they could continue to assist clients while they looked for a permanent solution. Daryl especially wanted

more space for his alopecia patients. After searching and searching, he finally found a building in the suburb town of Hiawatha. They were able to design a floor plan to work with Daryl’s hair replacement business. The building is 1300 square feet, has 4 styling rooms, a massage room, a wig room, and a preparation room. There is a central waiting area so clients don’t have to wait near the front entrance. Many of the rooms have custom oak cabinets with granite countertops. The Grecians have rebuilt the flooded location in Cedar Rapids, IA. They have a small work area in the back where Daryl still assists clients

Central Waiting Area

who live in the area and cannot travel to the new Hiawatha location. Daryl hopes to rent out his extra rooms to other businesses within the area. Advanced Hair Technologies offers many services including; laser therapy, massage therapy, hairstyling, hair coloring, scalp treatment, hair replacement, non surgical grafts, Micropoint Link, and Cyberhair. Most clients at Advanced Hair Technologies are men but the percentage of female clientele is grow-

Massage Room

ing. 40 percent of the clientele live outside the Cedar Rapids area and drive up to 100 miles for their service appointments. Over the years, direct mail has worked well for the Grecians. Daryl was featured on TV several years ago and it was effective but very expensive. He used to write a monthly newsletter which he sent out to his hair replacement wearers. His website has also proven to be very effective. The worst marketing Daryl has tried includes advertising on the front cover of a local telephone book and advertising in a cook book. I would like to thank the Grecians for sharing their story with Hair Journal International. They have overcome some major challenges in the years and I wish them the best of luck with their new location. Please visit their website at www.advancedhairtechnologies.net.


THE ULTIMATE

October 22-26

BUSINESS CONFERENCE New Hair Products & Styling Rene’ Meier -President of European Hair Imports and sole US distributor of Gisela Mayer European wigs. Trained as cosmetologist and wigmaker in Germany, Rene will present his own collection, Pure by Nature.?

Four days with top people who are reshaping the industry. This is no ordinary hair loss seminar! It's four days up close and personal with the top stars in hair management. Participate in cutting-edge lectures; join their table for dinner or share a cocktail on deck as they introduce you to the latest technologies.

New Technologies Chris Webb -Travels the world to interview industry leaders and hair loss researchers. Business consultant and publisher of The National Hair Journal. If you want to know what lies ahead, 15 minutes with Chris will point you in the right direction RandyVeliky - COO, Lexington Int’l., makers of HairMax, the only hand-held laser cleared by the FDA to grow hair. Learn why every client should have a personal laser and how to integrate them into your business plan. Don Ozendowsky - President of Scalp Laser Inc., a leading manufacturer of professional lasers. Learn about the latest technology... and what it means to your clients, and to your business. Be the first to Laser Network - A new program that provides the education and professional support you need to succeed in the emerging laser market. If you own a laser but do not know how to integrate light therapy into your salon, or if you are contemplating light therapy as a new profit center, you must attend this program.

Jimmy Toscano -Probably the top hair system designer and placement specialist in the US today. Draws crowds at hair conferences wherever he goes. Nobody knows more or educates better than “The General.” Faculty member of The National Hair Society. Lynda Collier-Director of the Eden Spa at Florida Hospital Orlando. Respected consultant in the postmastectomy product industry. Lynda will give advice on insurance claims, client care and ethics, explain pricing/marketing to the medical professional and help you to manage inventory. Erwin Kupitz - A Hollywood legend. You’ve seen his work on the silver screen; now meet the man who makes the stars look great. Erwin will share his secrets and design skills and explain how to create hair additions that look totally natural even under bright studio lights and in extreme close-ups. Teresa Valenzuelsa -Trained by legendary Ziggy, wigmaker to the stars, Teresa has crafted fine wigs in Hollywood for 36 years. Theresa will teach basic ventilating techniques, show how to modify density, add highlights and do last-minute repairs. Bobbi Russell - Queen of the hair extenders! Specialist in female hair additions for over 20 years. Bobbi will demonstrate her own “Bobbi Tape Method” which requires no shaving of the hair, no sewing and no glue.

Jon Fortgang - Jon, a hair veteran with over 40 yrs manufacturing and design experience and extensive internet skills, will present a new consumer outreach program that will tell the market how to find the most skilled hairloss professionals. Todd Holzer -Todd is the new director of operations for Korvue / hair replacement and will introduce Korvue-Lite - specially designed for new users with special wizards to guide you step by step. The latest Korvue can give you greater control over your business and create efficiencies you never thought possible.

New Horizons...

New Profit Opportunities Limited space available - save your place and register today at: www.regonline.com/cruisingwiththestars Hair Society: hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com or call 1-951-571-3209 European Hair Imports: renemeier@earthlink.net or call 1-866-681-4247


20 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

Studio Branding

(cont. from pg. 11)

with your own, or your own still photos. This would involve taking the hair manufacturer’s commercial and going to a video editing facility and telling them what you want, then giving them the photos or videos, plus your logo and other items, that you want included. You can probably do this for around $1,500$2,000 per commercial, plus the cost the hair manufacturer charges for the TV commercials. The third way is to go to your local TV station, provide them with the assets, meaning photos, videos, logo, etc., and let them put it together for you. They’ll charge a nominal price, probably around $1,000 per commercial, provided you agree to buy airtime on their station. The only problem with going to local TV stations is the quality of the commercials they normally produce. Think of those commercials you see late at night for the local barbecue joint. Not that it has to be that way. But you’re going to have to be very careful that what you get makes your studio look good, and not something else. What about websites? Well, again, it takes money to have a website that is optimized for local search. You’ll need both organic optimization and “pay per word” optimization to get it up high in the rankings of all the various search engines. It’s been said that no brand has ever been built on the web, because the web is where people go to find information and will likely click on companies’ websites that they already know something about. I wouldn’t place 100% faith in this assertion. But I will say that if you do try to raise awareness of your studio through branding, that you better have a very good website that reflects the nature of your brand message. Because once they know about your brand, people are most likely to go to the web to find your site in order to get more information.

AHLC Recognizes Industry Leaders Ft. Lauderdale, FL. 0409 - Andy Wright, president of the On Rite Company, received a Special Recognition Award at the American Hair Loss Council’s 20/20 2009 Conference.

Remember, branding in an investment You’ll naturally want to include a phone number on your branding commercial, as well as a sales message and a call to action. All this in addition to information that conveys something pertinent about your studio. Naturally, by selling your studio, you’ll have less time to sell a particular product. This will probably lead to less leads, since you’re educating as well as selling. If all you’re looking for is the greatest number of leads at the lowest cost, branding is probably not for you. On the other hand, if you’re looking to build your studio’s reputation over the long term, thereby staying top of mind in people when the day comes that they do have a need for your services, branding makes eminent sense. Quite frankly, your studio has a name and reputation that you’ve worked hard to build. Branding makes your studio’s name stand for something and have meaning. If you think of branding in those terms, the question isn’t “can I afford to brand my studio?” but rather, “can I afford not to?” Steven DiManni is a 27-year veteran of Madison Avenue, serving as Creative Director of many of New York’s top agencies for clients ranging from Coca-Cola to Hitachi to General Cigar, and having won almost every major creative award the industry has to offer. He is also Executive Vice President/Creative of the John Caples International Awards for whom he creates the advertising that promotes the direct response industry’s preeminent awards show. A 26-year veteran of the hair replacement industry, Steven is a long-time consultant to the On Rite Company and is widely published in industry magazines.

AHLC Executive Director Susie Kettering presents On Rite President Andy Wright with the organization’s Special Recognition Award

Mr. Wright was presented with the award for “years of help, support, and

New Way to Compare Hair Regimens Has the axe fallen on Emu Oil? Palo Alto, CA. 08/09 - The Internet is awash with hair loss solutions. If emu oil doesn't deliver the goods, there are always herbal remedies from the Himalayas that promise to unclog your pores and allow your hair to "breathe." It's because of colorful remedies like these that hair management professionals will welcome RateADrug’s new userbased website. RateADrug.com is adding treatment evaluation and statistical comparison tools for alternative medicines and herbal supplements to its analytical website. Consumers will be able to assess the safety and effectiveness of supplements and traditional Ayurvedic, Chinese, and homeopathic medicines, plus herbal remedies, vitamins, and minerals in addition to prescription drugs. Anyone trying to decide on the best treatment for their condition can use the site to make a personal evaluation of their current prescriptions and complementary medications, as well as look at how well other users rate both those and similar treatments. Americans spend an estimated $34 billion

unwavering cooperation to the AHLC”, according to president, Peggy Thornhill. Also receiving awards were Gregory Bello, William Collier, Eloise Ferguson, Carl Foster, Michelle Martin, Jack Ramsey, Jerry Platt, Martin Salvi, Lou Verrone and Tom Usadel. The theme of the conference was the AHLC’s life-long agenda of education. True to that mission, two guest speakers filled the Sunday morning meeting with information, with David Fatula’s reality of “Leaving a Legacy” and Dr. Shelly Friedman’s presentation of new procedures in the medical field. Educational classes that extended the conference’s theme included “Introduction to European Hair” by Renee’ Meier, “Laser Hair Therapy” by John Vincent and Dr. Shelly Friedman, “The Women’s Medical Market” by Jonalee Schmidt, “Tricks of the Trade” by Keith Zimmerman, and Dave Barker’s “Added Revenue for the Hair Center”. The conference concluded with the AHLC business meeting and plans for the 2010 Power Symposium. per year on alternative therapies, roughly eleven percent of their out-of-pocket health expenses. However, most of the data used for making complementary treatment decisions comes from manufacturers or distributors. While the prescription drug industry has faced serious questions about the objectivity and integrity of the scientific data used to approve or prescribe conventional drugs, unregulated alternative therapies pose an equally important challenge. RateADrug offers an unbiased and highly systematic way for users to evaluate their own experiences with medications and compare them with input from other users.

Hair Club Moving Salt Lake City, 08/09 - Hair Club, Salt Lake City is moving to a new location on West Town Ridge Parkway, Sandy, about 5 miles away from the old center. “We think our clients are going to love the facility” says Grant Wegner, Hair Club's Western Region Vice President, "It has been upgraded in every way, and is twice the size of our previous center. From improved parking, to closer freeway access, nearby shopping at the South Towne Mall, and beautiful mountain views the new location truly has it all.” Hair Club has 95 other locations throughout the United States, Canada, and Puerto Rico. The company was founded in 1976 by Sy Sperling, known by the trademark phrase “I’m not just the president, I’m also a client.”

Synthetic vs Human (continued from page 7) CK: Natureal can be cut just like human hair. It won’t hurt your scissors. It won’t slip or rotate on the filaments or lay forward. So we don’t have to teach you a new technique to cut our hair. NHJ: So tangling is not an issue? CK: No; it’s better than human hair. NHJ: So what’s the downside? We’ve only heard good things so far. Is there a downside a user would discover? CK: The downside is that this synthetic is more expensive than regular man-made fibers. When you talk to people about synthetics, they always expect a bargain. But this is not a cheap fiber; this is a high-performance fiber. NHJ: What advice would you give to retailers reading this interview? What should they be doing today? CK: The price of human hair is going to keep going up. The quality is deteriorating. It’s very difficult to get natural hair today. Much of the hair coming out of Asia is chemically treated before they send it to you. That means it has been damaged. I think the answer is a good quality synthetic hair. NHJ: For many stylists and clients, moving from human to synthetic is a big step. Are you asking too much? CK: Let’s take the fashion industry as an example. Italian designer, Armani came up with polyester clothing which he’s now selling at an even higher price than silk! His high-end customers didn’t have any problems making the transition. NHJ: So if fashion leaders like Armani had no problems, hair stylists and cosmetologists should have no problems either? CK: Right. NHJ: What about the length of the hair? CK: Our wigs are available in lengths up to 22 inches. That’s usually good enough. I should add, that our hair won’t get tangled, even at that length. NHJ: When are Natureal products going to be available in America? CK: We are just starting now. We should be in mass production this September. NHJ: Will Natureal be available to everyone, or are you planning to create a special distributor network? CK: Good question. I don’t have an answer yet. NHJ: Before we began this interview, you told us that in the past, your company was the largest supplier of human hair in the world. You’re now looking to become the largest supplier of synthetic. Do you think you can pull that off? CK: My father was the largest human hair supplier in the 60s. He controlled maybe 80% of the world market. I may not be as great as my father, but I certainly hope I will NHJ be able to make him proud.


21 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009

FLASH REPORT

NEW CERAMIC FLAT IRONS

It is the small details that stand out - the careful seaming around the shoulders, the duel interior pockets, the slight tailoring

SO.CAP. USA Hair Extensions is introducing three new models of their ceramic straightening iron; “Pearl,” “Aurum” and “Glam,” all designed to hydrate and give extra shine to your client’s hair. They feature an ergonomic grip that is lightweight and easy to handle, allowing stylists to press firmly without any strain, minimizing the risk of carpal tunnel syndrome. The irons are available in black or silver.

AURUM - is a narrow ceramic straightening iron that offers Infrared heat and negative ion ventilating holes, a special Infrared Shield and Negative Ion Shower to rejuvenate your client’s hair. It utilizes the industry’s most advanced technology with Nano-Fine Ceramic Heating. A nano-silver coated cover keeps the handle cool (122ºF, 50ºC). 1-inch wide heating plates deliver maximum temperatures to 450ºF (230ºC).

GLAM - is a wide straightening iron that features inflated infrared heat that is pushed out of tiny holes around special 1” ceramic plates. It utilizes nano-fine ceramic heating, an Infrared Shield and a Negative Ion Shower that will simultaneously rejuvenate it. A nano-silver coated dual cover keeps the temperature of handle minimal (122ºF, 50ºC). 1?- inch wide heating plates deliver maximum temperatures up to 450ºF (230ºC).

around the waist and chest. The doctor coats have a slender fit and create a slimmer profile as well. They are made from sturdy, soft material and lined with softer shirt fabric. The coats are also carefully coated with the antibacterial protection necessary for use in a hospital environment. "A friend asked me once why there weren't any "stylish" doctor coats out there," says Arata Ohwa, CEO of Classico, Inc. "Our goal was to make a doctor coat that is stylish, elegant and we want it to make people happy, confident and spirited." For additional information regarding the products or techniques of Classico, Inc, contact Arata Ohwa or visit http://www.classicolabcoat.com.

COSMOPROF N. AMERICA & PBA BEAUTY WEEK: LAS VEGAS Las Vegas. 07/09 - Demonstrating that hard work and tenacity leads to success despite the current economic climate,

PEARL - is an Infra-Red ceramic straightening iron that uses the Dual Nano-Ceramic Heat technology to maintain even heat across the plates at all times. Concentrated infrared heat generated by a special infra-generator, offers highly effective, fast-acting, non-damaging heat. Using advanced ceramic technology, this professional iron is 60% faster and more effective at straightening or styling hair. It offers 25 heat settings and features an automatic safety system that automatically shuts the iron off after 40 minutes of inactivity. This new iron seals in moisture, adds silky shine, and maintains style throughout the day. For more information call 877-855-4247 or 914-423-6545 or visit them on the web at www.socapusa.com or email them at Info@SOCAPUSA.com.

JAPANESE DESIGNERS BRING FINE TAILORING TO DOCTOR COATS Tokyo, Japan. 08/09 -- The white coat has defined a doctor for generations, and not much has changed in the style, design and overall impression of the white doctor coat until now. Classico, Inc., a Japanese clothing company, has paired high-quality tailoring with the traditional white lab coat and created a jacket that is both durable and comfortable.

Cosmoprof North America continues to maintain its position as the premier business-to-business beauty event encompass-

ing all sectors of the industry in one venue. The event brought 625 exhibiting companies to a sold-out show floor along with more than 22,500 quality attendees that included importers, distributors, and manufacturers. This year’s show welcomed ‘PBA Beauty Week: Las Vegas,’ hailed as North America’s largest, most inclusive beauty event. By bringing together a significant number of industry events, PBA Beauty Week allowed attendees to conduct all of their business in one venue and celebrate the accomplishments of the industry and its members. In today’s world of limited time and resources, coupled with the need to maximize productivity, PBA Beauty Week: Las Vegas is a sound investment for professionals looking to expand their businesses and careers.


Is Your Hair Ogle-Proof?

22 The National Hair Journall Fall 2009

In another article in this publication, The National Hair Journal talks about the visual world we live in today and the importance of first impressions. When you make that extra effort to style your hair or choose the right outfit, does anyone really notice? The following results from a research study carried out in the United Kingdom may surprise you. Men will spend almost one year of their lives ogling women, while women will spend nearly the same amount of time deciding what clothes to wear on various occasions, according to several recent publicity surveys conducted in the UK by OnePoll.

• More than one-third would miss being able to admire the opposite sex if they couldn’t see, while another 71% would miss their partner’s face. • 61% are worried about their eyesight fading. What to Wear? A separate poll of nearly 2,500 females in the UK estimates that women will spend almost one year of their lives deciding what to wear. The survey, which was also conducted by OnePoll for clothier Matalan, found that the average female will spend 287 days of her life rifling through her wardrobe. The one-year projection is based on an adult lifetime that spans from ages 16 to 60. In terms of picking clothes on specific days and times, the average women spends 16 minutes

jects to 11 months and 11 days spent between ages 18 and 50, OnePoll said. In contrast, heterosexual women spend only about half that time looking at the opposite sex, the survey found. UK women look at six men for about 20 minutes each day. This calculates to six months of ogling between ages 18 and 50. The poll of 3,000 also revealed the top locations for man- and woman-watching. The supermarket tops the list for ogling men, followed by the pub and nightclub, while women’s most popular viewing locations are pubs and nightclubs. Other study findings • While the majority of men and women feel flattered at being gazed at, men are more likely to enjoy it. 19% say it makes them feel happy, compared with just 9% of women. • 16% of women say being watched makes them uncomfortable, while 20% say it embarrasses them. • More than 40% of women say they first look at a man’s eyes, while the same amount of men say they look at a woman’s body. • More than half of total respondents have been left red-faced after being caught eyeing someone. • One third of total respondents have ended up arguing with their significant other about their ogling, and one in ten have split up with a partner because of it. • 35% of respondents have started a relationship with someone they eyed-up.

By Tiffany Neumann Many salon and hair replacement center owners are wondering if computer software can really help them become more successful. The answer in one word is, ‘Yes.’ Specialized software packages are becoming increasingly popular, and with their special features, it’s not hard to understand why. By taking online appointments, calculating payroll, keeping track of inventory, sharing salon gift service packages, and storing client’s service and product information to name just a few, salon managers can become more efficient and still have more time to focus on their clients. Mark Jackson, a software developer, notes, “Features such as payroll, commissions, hourly wages and tax deductions are specifically designed to benefit owners and managers. The old days of manually punching numbers into a calculator are over. Now the computer does all the calculations. There is no need to redo or recheck numbers or statements. For example, the software can help owners with tax deductions while calculating an employee’s hourly wages and overtime payments. Besides being more accurate, the computer saves managers valuable time.”

The first poll, sponsored by Britain’s Kodak Lens Vision Centres found that the average heterosexual man spends almost 43 minutes each day eyeing about 10 different women.

This adds up to 259 hours - almost 11 days - each year, which pro

Automating Your Way to Happiness

every weekday morning deciding what to wear, and about 14 minutes on a Saturday or Sunday morning. A slightly larger chunk of time (20 minutes) is spent selecting an outfit for a Friday or Saturday night outing. Additional survey findings • Weeknights out can take up to 20 minutes for an average woman to select an outfit. • Deciding what clothes to take on vacation uses up to 52 minutes. • While on vacation, a woman takes 10 minutes each morning and 10 minutes each evening to find an acceptable outfit. • Dinner parties, Christmas parties and black-tie events take up 36 minutes each, six times a year. This a adds up to three and a half days over the course of an average lifetime. • Picking an outfit for the gym or other sporting activity takes 14 minutes each visit. • An average woman will try on two outfits each morning before coming to a final decision. • One in two women spends 15 minutes the night before work deciding what to wear. The research also found that a woman spends about 64 hours each year talking to other women about clothes, 15 minutes a week chatting to friends on the phone about clothes they have bought or intend to buy, and 16 minutes each week talking to their male partner about clothes. The poll did not measure the amount of time that men spend picking out clothes to wear. Source: MC Marketing Charts, Aug 07/09

Salon employees also benefit from special features that can help them become more efficient during the work day. The telephone rings with an appointment. It rings a few minutes later to cancel an appointment, then rings again to reschedule or check for availability. In fact, the telephone never stops ringing. Yes, that is a good thing, but with online appointment booking, clients now have the ability to schedule or change appointments on their own. This makes them happy and frees up your front desk staff. With wait-list features, once an opening becomes available in your appointment book, your manager or receptionist can be quickly notified of clients who can fill these open spots. As a result, there is less likelihood of empty appointment books when you receive cancellations. With the right computer utilities, you can easily promote new services, introduce new staff or fill appointment openings via the internet. But there’s more to come. Not only will your business begin to run more smoothly, your clients will enjoy the special features as well. For example, one software system, Salon Iris from CMJ Designs, contains a something called ‘Picture Manager’ which uses before and after pictures to keep track of their appearance and record their preferred hair color and hair replacement designs. Clients can take prints home with them the same day and in some cases, even have the option to import and export your own styling suggestions and photographs. With the ability to review before and after makeover photographs, your clients will gain a better understanding of all your wig, hair extension and hair replacement services. They are also able to share their makeovers with friends and family, which will likely get you more appointments! Today there are many terrific software systems to choose from. Read the advertisements in your trade magazines; visit software companies at trade shows and ask your associates for their recommendations. Go from scurrying around your desk looking for an eraser to making a few clicks on the mouse! Technology has made jobs much easier and businesses more successful. Don’t let a messy front desk or a work overload keep you NHJ and your team from excelling.

Reaching into the Women’s Market Seminars gaining in popularity By Steven DiManni As studios begin to target the women’s hair loss market with added zeal, the technique of using seminars to attract and sell women is gaining in popularity. The idea is to stage an “event” at a particular date and time, as opposed to scheduling a regular consultation. The event element adds an air of excitement, as well as a sense of urgency to attend. Jay Benjamin, owner of Adrian’s Hair in Ft. Lauderdale, FL said, “We’ve had a high degree of success with seminars because, unlike a one-on-one consultation, there’s a communal feeling that is less off-putting to women with hair loss. As a result, we’re able to talk with women who ordinarily might be reluctant to come into the studio.” The ‘VR-Live’ program from American Hairlines has been a successful version of the seminar concept for several years. The program utilizes either PR or local advertising to promote the event, which then provides a forum for live makeovers. In some cases, existing lead lists are culled to find participants who are then contacted via direct mail or a similar device. An added incentive to attend is featuring a speaker who has experience in the area of women’s hair loss. Amnon Zakay, president of Raz International did just this when he contracted for Candace Hoffman, author of Breaking the Silence in Women’s Hair Loss, to address a seminar he held late this spring. Promoted through the general media, the seminar saw dozens of women in attendance, Said Zakay: “The amount of disinformation and misinformation that most women receive regarding hair loss is extraordinary. I have heard women attribute their hair loss to everything from using their blow dryer on a high setting to excessive perspiration from participating in sports while they were young.” Candace put many of these falsehoods to rest. Zakay added that no one knows what it’s like for a woman to lose her hair unless it’s another woman who has undergone the same experience. Having a speaker who has first hand knowledge of the available alternatives adds to the credibility of what the studio is selling. Rhonda McCarthy of the On Rite Company has also been conducting seminars, with and without featured speakers, for several studios. She claims that it’s a learning experience for the women who attend as well as the studio’s own personnel. “Many studios have a lot of experience in the men’s market, but may not have that much when it comes to women,” opined McCarthy. “The seminar is not only a good sales tool that helps the studio convert leads into clients, it’s also a good teaching tool; it allows studio personnel to gain insight into what motivates women to consider hair augmentation.” Of course, seminars are not a panacea. “You have to be careful how you promote them”, said Benjamin. “We’ve found that it’s best to place ‘reminder calls’ to all the women who agree to attend. And it’s not always easy to make the sale right then and there. You get a lot of ‘be backs’.” As more and more studios target the women’s market, there’s bound to be a lot of trial and error. But the fact that so many studios are having positive results is a good indicator that they’re on the right track as NHJ they explore the seminar approach.


23 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009


24 The National Hair Journal Fall 2009


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