1 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
Hair
Fashion
The General is Excited!
Technology
Envy Hair
Find out why…
Zero to $4M in 24 months!
Page 8
Page 12
Industry
Skin Rejuvenation How Cathie got started
Seen & Heard What you missed! Page 6
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The National Hair & Skin Journal
™
Volume 16 No 62
Summer 2012
The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation
Going, Going, Gone!
Hair Club sold for $163.5 million
Tokyo. 07/2012 - Hair Club for Men & Women has finally found its logical home. After months of behind the scenes negotiation and competitive bidding, the winner was announced on July 16th: Aderans Co., Ltd., the world’s leading manufacturer and distributor of hair goods. Aderans will pay $163.5 million in cash to Regis Corporation and the transaction is expected to close in the third or fourth quarter of calendar 2012. Headquartered in Tokyo, Japan, Aderans marketing is primarily focused on wigs and hair additions, though it also owns beauty schools, beauty salons, hair replacement centers and hair restoration clinics. In the US, Aderans’ best know brands are; Bosley “The World’s Most Experienced Hair Restoration Expert,” Rene of Paris, International Hair Goods (IHI), TressAllure and Bosley. Joshua Schechter, chairman of Aderans America Holdings, Inc., commented, “As a result of this acquisition, we will be able to offer the most comprehensive set of hair replacement and hair restoration services in the North American marketplace and
provide consumers with a full array of hair loss solutions through our complementary businesses. We look forward to providing world-class products and service to Hair Club customers and to working with Hair Club franchisees and employees to expand the brand and grow the business.” Sy Sperling founded Hair Club in 1969 in New York City using his credit cards to finance the startup. 31 years later he sold the company for $45 million to a Toronto-based private equity firm. In 2004, Regis bought the business for $210 million, anticipating that Hair Club would become a vehicle for “organic expansion.” This did not happen and under pressure from its board of directors, Regis decided to retrench, “This divestiture represents an opportunity to exit a non-core business on attractive terms while taking another significant step in refocusing operational resources on expanding sales, margins and profitability of salon operations,” stated Joel Conner, Chairman of the Board. Hair Club now has 96 company-owned and franchised outlets nationwide and generates an annual operating profit of $30 million on sales of $140 million.
Alopecia Champion Investing in Education
Star cyclist Joanna Rowsell hopes to be an inspiration
to other alopecia sufferers after winning Olympic gold
Joanna Rowsell was only nine years old when she lost her right eyebrow. That was 14 years ago and it was just the beginning of a lifetime struggle with alopecia. But Joanna is a fighter and she found strength and inspiration in athletic competition. This July, she stood proud... and bald... before a television audience of millions of cheering fans as she accepted a gold medal for the United Kingdom. “I don’t want to be known as the girl with alopecia; I don’t want that to be what defines me. But I’ve realized now that I’ve got a responsibility... it’s always going to be a part of me, so I may as well embrace it and hopefully inspire other girls.” And an inspiration she certainly is; together with team mates, Trott and King, Rowsell beat three world records en route to gold. “It was about how I performed he iebs ives rince air onsultation on the bike and that’s what I was judged on. Recommends Prince William get Propecia another for a teenage pop star to offer his own When I started winning that was the best London, UK. 07/2012 - It’s no secret that diagnosis. And that’s just what happened when feeling ever. I wasn’t going to stop; I wasn’t Britain’s heir apparent is receding fast. It Justin Beaver talked with a British journalist, going to let it (alopecia) hold me back. ‘You seems he has inherited his father’s thinning “I don’t know why he doesn’t just get those only live once, so go for it.” hair, something the UK media is not hesitant things, those products,” commented Bieber. to display. But it’s one thing for the tabloids to “You just take Propecia and your hair grows ald en at isk comment on the prince’s misfortune and quite back. Have you not got it over here?”
T
B
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P
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R for Prostate Cancer
Cosmetic treatment for men
Men Want Youth Too Botox was used 336,834 times by American men in 2010, up 9% from 2009, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Looks are increasingly important in today’s competitive marketplace. In a special report published in The Economist magazine, David Pyott, the boss of Allergan which makes Botox asks, “Do you want to have working for you a really old investment banker, or a really old
New Image Labs expands online program
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Toronto. 05/2012 - Researchers at the University of Toronto say bald men are more likely to develop prostate cancer than men with more hair on their heads. "Bald men should be aware that they may benefit from being screened earlier and perhaps being biopsied sooner," said study author Dr. Neil Fleshner, professor of surgical urology. Scientists think androgens, which include testosterone, may play a role in both baldness and prostate cancer. The androgen, dihydrotestosterone (DHT) has been shown to increase in bald men, causing the hair follicles to miniaturize and eventually stop growing.
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Forget the Hair!
Flying Squirrel Focuses on Gold
London, UK. 08/12 - American Olympic goldmedalist Gabby Douglas may be only 16-years old, but she has the self confidence of an adult. Responding to tweets about her hair at the London Olympics she commented, “I just made history and people are focused on my hair? It can be bald or short, it doesn’t matter...” Gabby uses gel, clips and a ponytail holder so her hair stays put during the competitions and she doesn’t plan to mess with something that has brought her two gold medals, “Nothing is going to change, I’m going to wear my hair like this during beam and bar finals. You might as well just stop talking about it.” Gabby, the first U.S. gymnast to win gold in team and all-around competition, concluded, “We’re all champions and we’re all winners. I just say that it’s kind of a stupid and crazy thought to think about my hair.”
H
lawyer?” Less invasive male maintenance is omeone ove as growing too according to The Economist. lopecia Sales of men’s beauty products in France, Germany, Spain, Britain and Italy rose by Beverly Hills, CA. 08/12 - In honor of 8% between 2005 and 2010, despite the International Alopecia Day, taking place recession, and will grow another 8% by 2014. on August 4, and September's Alopecia Moisturizers dominate in France, Britain and Awareness Month, Follea Inc., a designer and Spain. Germans and Italians prefer to buy manufacturer of natural, European wigs and deodorants. hairpieces will give away 10,000 free Alopecia bracelets that bear the phrase, "Someone I love has Alopecia." "We are honored to be a part of the effort to raise awareness of the emotional challenges faced by millions of girls and
A
West Palm Beach, FL. 07/12 - Camera and production crews took over New Image Labs Corp recently, as the company kicked off a week-long filming session of eleven cuttingedge hair tutorials for the industry’s only online educational platform, NIU (New Image University). The company has made a substantial investment in the form of resources, time and talent to bring the latest technical and business know-how to the hair loss community. “We are excited to make this enhanced online training available to hair loss professionals everywhere to help them have a leg up, boost their skills and increase their business”, states Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs. The new tutorials are expected to be available for members of NIU in October 2012. Learn more about how online education affects our industry in the next issue of The National Hair & Skin Journal.
women of all ages in the largely unrecognized female Alopecia community.” commented Follea president, Michael Leigh. “Creating wigs and hairpieces that give back a woman’s best hair day, every day, is our raison d'être. It makes what we do all the more worthwhile." Alopecia Areata is a common autoimmune skin disease that, according to the National Alopecia Areata Foundation (NAAF). It affects over five million people in the United States alone and re s u l t s i n t h e unpredictable loss of hair in patches on the scalp, eyebrows, lashes and sometimes the whole body.
2  The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
3 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
F R O M
T H E
Hair Club’s New Home: Hair Club has finally found its logical home. Tokyo-based Aderans is not only the world’s largest manufacturer of hair goods, but also the most vertically integrated. In Japan, Aderans offers cradle-tograve hair support, with its own beauty schools to train cosmetologists and promote styling skills, its own retail chain of hair salons, and its state-of-the-art factories offering human and man-made hair products. And if that were not enough, it also creates wigs and special effects for the theater and movies. This is the full-service model we can now expect to see in the US. In fact, it will be a more comprehensive model since the Aderans Research Institute in Atlanta, GA is the world leader in cell multiplication research and Bosley is the top cosmetic surgery group. No doubt Aderans marketing and advertising advisers are working overtime to develop a “full-service” campaign, offering every hair loss solution all under one roof. If the Regis relationship was flawed, this one makes total sense and is likely to redefine the way hair loss sufferers do business. Skin Is In: Numbers don’t lie. Elsewhere in this issue, we report on the growing number of men seeking skin rejuvenation. At the time when so many market segments are slowing down, the anti-aging market continues to defy gravity! Whether they find themselves having to work longer, or are simply seeing the signs of stress and fatigue in their faces, men now want younger looking skin to go with their new hair. And as we’ve commented before, one without the other is only half the “looking good” solution. We enjoy the unique privilege of having clients come to us every day asking for our professional assistance to stay young looking. Skin rejuvenation has to be part of the answer. Embracing Technology: Last week I bought 2 automatic soap dispensers. One for the kitchen and one for the bathroom. I smiled when I bought them because they were gimmicky but I thought they would be fun. We’ve all seen these devices built into bathrooms at expensive hotels or public restrooms, but I never thought I would have one at home. But, far from being gimmicks, they are fabulous! They look sleek, dispense just the right amount of soap without you having to touch anything and they do not drip or leave a mess. Everything I’ve always wanted, but didn’t know it. A few weeks earlier, I installed “The Nest”, a thermostat created by the same man who developed the iPhone technology. It memorizes your air conditioning and heating preferences relative to the outside weather and humidity and then runs your home for you. You can even access it from your phone when you are traveling. Why am I telling you about this? Because these two technologies have changed the way I perform simple functions in my home. And in the same way, there are new technologies that can streamline the way you do business. Obviously, automating your customer records is a logical place to start. I’m still surprised how many people continue to hand write customer information onto index cards. Admittedly, some of the early salon management software was expensive and difficult to learn, but all that has changed. And then there is video conferencing. How many people now conduct sales consultations using the camera built into their computer system? In today’s hectic workplace, this one’s a no-brainer. Skype,
E D I T O R GoToMeeting, Face Time and Google Chat all offer high-quality imaging and cost next to nothing.
What else do we need? Well, more sophisticated templates would be great. Scanning technology now exists that allows you to measure a client’s head with impeccable accuracy and forward a three-dimensional image to a production center. Take a look at the new LEAP technology (http://www.youtube. com/user/leapmotion) and see how it is now possible to capture a detailed image of a hand or head without even touching the screen or keyboard. Leap claims its technology is accurate down to a 1/100th of a millimeter. And with Apple introducing its super high resolution “Iris” screen throughout its laptop and desktop computers, surely it is not out of the question to photograph and electronically share color swatches and hair sample images. Those are just a few items on my technology wish list, but wish lists have a habit of coming true more quickly than anyone could have imagined. Meanwhile, there are important technologies that allow us to service our clients even better. In the medical field, cell multiplication and robotics are exciting developments that could fundamentally change the hair restoration market. Laser therapy is another technology that made a slow start, but is now gaining momentum. Similarly, microcurrent therapy for skin rejuvenation is now turning heads (forgive the pun) and is predicted to be the next big profit opportunity for hair salons. In short, my earnest advice is to embrace new technologies. As I discovered, today’s gimmick is tomorrow’s important utility. You’ll never know unless you try it! The Comeback Kid: In our ‘Seen and Heard’ section, we report on The American Hairloss Council convention in Fort Lauderdale. The Council is reemerging as an important force in our industry and this is to be welcomed. The Journal has long argued that there is a need for an independent education and accreditation agency in the field of hair replacement. The Journal is an information tool that for 15 years has been telling hairloss professionals about trends and opportunities that impact their business. The National Hair & Skin Society is a support organization that identifies commercial opportunities and helps its members grow their business. But only The American Hairloss Council has the not for profit status that allows it to set educational standards and recognize individual achievement without anyone questioning its independence or objectivity. Does a niche market like hair replacement need two separate organizations? Absolutely. Just as national politics need a legislative and an executive branch, so our industry needs a not-for-profit as well as a commercial branch. Here at the Journal, we hope the Council will focus on setting high professional standards and rewarding those who achieve them. We also hope it will become the conscience of the industry, able to defend it against bad publicity, unprofessional conduct and unscrupulous operators. Chris Webb
Editor in Chief
Apira Science
4 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
There’s Not One Follicle Of Evidence That Hair Doesn’t Matter For bald guys wanting to be president, this is a big hairy deal! By Rick Shacklett
I am bald. Big non-hairy deal. There was a time when I wasn’t so blasé about it. After all, I’m a kid of the 1960s and 1970s, a time when rebellious sorts were letting their freak flags fly everywhere. I wanted to do the same, but I had weird, unmanageable hair that didn’t look good at any length. Its eventual retreat and disappearance was a relief. And a relief it remains, because (a) Babs doesn’t mind the shine (lucky me) and (b) I’m not and never will be running for president (lucky you). You will recall from your elementary school U.S. history books, bald guys have had a rough go of it in politics, at least at the highest level. Of the 43 men who have held the top job, only Adams, Van Buren and Eisenhower have been cueballs. Garfield sometimes gets tossed into this group, and he does seem to have had more than the standard amount of forehead. But these guys don’t count. Four were elected in pre-TV times, when the public really didn’t get that good a fix on candidates’ noggins. And Ike was a war hero; he could have looked like the Elephant Man and still won an election. So to my mind, we’ve not yet put our bald bias aside and willingly elected a chromedome.
No bald bias, you say? Stevenson, Stassen (toupee), McCain, Thompson, Giuliani, McCotter, et al., might disagree. They and I would point out that if you’re going to be on the national stage, it’s far better to have a lush stand of hair — and even to be caught spending obscene sums on maintaining its sheen, style and perfect amount of gray — than to be subconsciously assigned the drab roles or heinous nature we’ve associated bald men with over the years: Accountant. Postman. Junior high science teacher. Butler. Nameless neighbor. Menacing loner. Mad scientist. Darth Vader. Khrushchev. Willard Scott. Baldies are either mundane, monstrous or a tad meshuga, any of which is a tough sell to voters. Obviously, none of this bodes well for Herman Cain. However his current issues shake out, he’ll never run away from his scalp. Another candidate in the current parade faces a different kind of tonsorial challenge: Michele Bachmann, so the New York Daily News said in August, spent tidy amounts poofing and painting her locks as her campaign began to heat up, with such great success that even liberals began pestering their stylists to find that coppery color for them.
Does she or doesn’t she? Don’t know, don’t care. But I do know that I wouldn’t blame anyone in the “does” camp. In research released last year, MIT political scientists found that candidate appearances and election successes are more tightly aligned than even the most cynical of us might have imagined. And the phenomenon crosses cultures. The researchers showed U.S. and Indian voters candidate pics from 122 actual election contests in Brazil and Mexico. When asked which politicos would fare better in office, based solely on looks, respondents generally chose the lookers — and, shamefully, their picks lined up pretty well with the outcomes of those races. Just by using the pretty-puss selections of these shallow sorts, the researchers were able to correctly predict the winners in 68 percent of the Mexican elections and 75 percent of the Brazilian contests. On a more personal and not at all scholarly level, one of the most perceptive and intelligent women I know (wink, wink) insists that regardless of profession or pursuit, older people, and older, grayer women in particular, are taken less seriously than their younger peers. I can’t say that I’ve come across even one scrap of evidence that contradicts her.
Summer 2012 This would suggest that if so much as a strand of gray cracks the lovely visage that Bachmann presents, the only way she’ll see the inside of 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. is on the visitors tour with the rest of us schlubs. It is regrettable but true: Looks matter. A lot. Hair replacement and hair care are both multibillion-dollar businesses in this country alone, and politicians are not immune to their pull. We’d doubtless fare better if we all donned blindfolds during campaign season and simply listened to what candidates said. But we won’t. We like head games. Among Confucius’ sayings is this sad gem: “Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.” Yep. He was bald. About the Author: RICK SHACKLETT is a The Des Moines Register copy editor. You may share your bad-hair-day stories with him at rshacklett@ dmreg.com. He wrote this entertaining, but insightful article in November 2011, as the presidential election pageant was just getting started.
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The Man Who Saw the Light
5 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
John Vincent explains why he is committed to laser therapy
John Vincent (right) reviews notes with Chris Webb John Vincent has been in the hair restoration field for 28 years. During this time, he has been closely involved in all aspects of hair loss solutions, including hair pieces and wigs, which is where he started, as well as an educator and patient spokesperson for one of the top hair transplant groups in the nation. Most recently, John has focused on the field of laser hair therapy. He currently operates a clinic in San Luis Obispo, California and owns a company that makes handheld laser devices and other hair support products. He also serves as global sales director for the LaserCap Company.
Hair & Skin Journal: You have a background in both medical and non-medical hair restoration procedures, but now you have jumped with both feet into the world of lowlevel laser light therapy. Why? John Vincent: I loved working in the medical side of hair restoration but it became apparent to me there are two groups of individuals that are not well served by hair transplantation. The first is women. Women often do not make great hair transplant patients due to the diffuse nature of their hair loss. They may lose a significant amount of hair, but it thins progressively in a different way to men. That makes it exceedingly hard to restore the volume they want surgically. The other group I feel shouldn't rush into hair transplant surgery are young men in the early stages of hair loss. They may be freaking out about their hair, but they are not yet good candidates for hair transplantation precisely because it's difficult to predict how their thinning hair will progress. They are a moving target and a conscientious surgeon will not start them on an unknown number of hair transplant surgeries, only to find that they have run out of money and/or donor hair. We simply don't know what the future holds in store for these young men. HSJ: Before we started this interview, you sent me a discussion checklist. Number two on that list was statistics regarding people with hair loss. John V: A report published by the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgeons shows that there is widespread and deep concern about hair. The ISHRS hired a research company in Chicago that conducted the study and they interviewed approximately 2,000 people and asked them, “If you had your way, would you prefer more hair, more money, or more friends?” Amazingly, fifty-nine percent of the respondents said that they would rather have more hair! Now that seems odd to me because I would think if I had more money, I’d have more friends, and hair wouldn’t matter that much! But nevertheless, it was one more example of just how acute the concern about hair really is. You may also remember when Playboy Magazine ran an article that pointed
out that many young men in their 30’s stated they would trade five years of their life for a full head of hair! I’m paraphrasing, of course, but the astonishing thing was that many of these were men weren’t even experiencing hair loss yet. So we know how important hair is. In the past we’ve always associated hair loss with men, but in fact when we look at our laser patients, most of them are actually women. HSJ: The acceptance of low level laser light therapy hasn’t been an easy path. There was a period when there was a lot of skepticism; it seemed too good to be true. But slowly, the medical community has come around and begun to understand that this is indeed a viable therapy. In fact, many clinics around the country today not only offer light therapy as a medical treatment; they have even created custom lasers of their own that carry their company name. John V: You’re absolutely right. Things moved very slowly at first. Looking back, we can see the mistakes that were made in the early ‘90s when the first devices like the Harmonix hood laser were introduced. Unfortunately, these lasers often found their way into the hands of people who were non-technical, non-medical and had little understanding of how light worked. They weren't equipped to explain LHT properly and often did a bad job of managing client expectations regarding what to expect from treatment. Well, the medical community looked at that with a jaundiced eye and said, “This must be just more hokum from the folks in the snake oil business.” Fortunately for us however, a few pioneers in the field of light therapy, like Alan Bauman in Boca Raton and Bob Leonard in Rhode Island, took a closer look at these machines and started experimenting with them to see what they would do. And lo and behold, they found that light therapy could help their patients. It turned out to be a great way of preserving hair for future transplantation. Secondly, it was found to be a tremendous post operative wound healing vehicle, which means quicker healing of the graft sites and better healing in the sutured area. And finally, and most importantly, these 'early-adopters' reported LHT stimulated newly transplanted hair to grow in faster. In short, light therapy turned out not to be a threat as many hair surgeons had feared, but a valuable addition to everything they were already doing. Like Propecia, low level laser light therapy was another way to significantly enhance the results of traditional procedures and create happier clients. HSJ: There here has also been an evolution in the technology itself. The large floor standing Continued on Page 7 ›
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6 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
New Image 7th Annual International Symposium June, 2012: Punta Cana, Dominican Republic
shared, “The Secrets to Perfect Perms and Coloring” in which the long-time studio owner and industry expert explained many intricate processes, including permanent waving, alkaline waving, bleaching knots, and color
were an opportunity for guests from different countries and backgrounds to connect and form new relationships. Studio owners shared
West Palm Beach, July 24, 2012
stories about their businesses and marketing techniques and everyone had their cameras out to capture memories of these special nights.
N
ew Image believes in making education a top priority, and for many years the New Image International Symposium has served as an important live forum for international clients to learn new skills and network with their peers. At the 7th Annual International Symposium, the company continued this tradition in the tropical and serene environment of Punta Cana, Dominican Republic. With the theme of, “Relax and Learn,” this year’s gathering was designed to allow guests to attend every class offered to receive valuable hands-on training, as well as relaxing and mingling at entertaining receptions.
The host hotel, the Melia Caribe Tropical Resort, is a 5-star resort located on the beautiful beach of Punta Cana and it allowed guests to enjoy the many amenities and delicious dining, while providing ample space for the Symposium. Because the International Symposium caters specifically to international clients, guests came from every corner of the globe: Brazil, France, Israel, Canada, The Netherlands, Puerto Rico, and Mexico, to just to name a few. On Saturday, June 9th, the event got started with a Welcome Cocktail Hour in a tropical gazebo right on the beach. After this delightful opening, the education program was revved up the following day when the classes officially began.
Robert Voza, Randy Clark, Oscar Urzola, JC Pereira (son of 2012 Hair Icon), Ricky Knowles, Tony Sciara, and Keith Zimmerman at the dinner reception Saturday night. The actual Symposium took place in the resort’s Tropical area, a beautiful hall that provided four separate rooms, one for each presenter. Attendees divided into separate groups, with each one following its own
Keith Zimmerman leading a class through “Mastering The Art of Full Bonding.” schedule so each guest could have the opportunity of attending every training session. Keith Zimmerman, owner of Keith’s Haircenter in Green Bay, WI., taught a hands-on course, “Mastering the Art of Full Bonding” that walked attendees through every step of the application process including preparing the scalp, preparing the hair, placement, different application techniques, and proper clean up options. Attendees left with an official certificate in full bonding. Randy Clark, owner of Randy Clark & Associates in Dallas, TX and Robert Voza, owner of Salon Dejon in Tampa, FL also shared their hair replacement skills. Clark led with, “How to Master Custom Ordering,” an in-depth look at the best way to fill out a custom order form so the factory fully understands the client’s requirements and the studio owner receives the desired product every time. As part of this training session, Clark also demonstrated how to create the perfect mold using Techform Standard, a state of the art mold-making product. Robert Voza then
Conference guests creating a mold using Techform Standard in “How to Master Custom Ordering.” applications. Voza has a passion for coloring and perms and this was evident as he answered questions and shared his expertise. Dana Krangel, Media Coordinator at New Image Labs, hosted a class titled, “How To Sell More Using The Internet.” It covered everything guests needed to know about marketing their business using the Internet, including social media marketing, email marketing, going viral, the importance of a studio website and more. Attendees were shown real-world examples of successful online marketing campaigns and were able to share their own online experiences and discuss and compare techniques from other parts of the world. Ricky Knowles, owner of Ricky Knowles Hair & Wellness in Houston, TX, taught the Biolon Certification Class, which provided a comprehensive insight into this synthetic hair fiber that mimics the look and feel of real hair. In this 3-hour, hands-on session, guests were able to learn about the product and actually work with Biolon themselves. Knowles covered every aspect of working with Biolon, including choosing the right hair texture, working with hot tools, cutting and styling and more. Attendees walked away with important new knowledge and official Biolon Certification. While guests could enjoy mouthwatering fare for lunch at any one of Melia Caribe Tropical Resort’s beautiful restaurants, the evenings were extra special. Come night time, the entire group came together for fabulous dinners on the beach with live entertainment featuring local musicians and dancers. These dinners
Saturday, June 10th’s dinner was made even more exciting with the presentation of the The 2012 Hair Icon Award. A “Hair Icon” is a dedicated professional who has made an outstanding contribution to the hair replacement industry and New Image has been recognizing leaders in the domestic and international hair replacement markets with this prestigious designation since 2009. All Hair Icons are presented with the Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award, and this year’s recipient was Mr. João Costa Pereira of Brazil. Mr. Pereira first entered the hair replacement industry in 1967 and has continued to evolve and innovate his product and service offerings to this day. As the founder and CEO of Interlace, Mr. Pereira has established himself as the premiere hair replacement business in Brazil. The 2012 Hair Icon Award was presented to Mr. Pereira by Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs.
2012 Hair Icon João Costa Pereira with his son JC, New Image President Tony Sciara, and 2011 Hair Icon Gil Mennetrey. Oscar Urzola, Vice President of Sales at New Image Labs, summed up the event by stating, “The concept of ‘Relax & Learn’ was alive and well in Punta Cana. Our guests walked away with new knowledge and prestigious certificates as evidence of their hard work and new qualifications. At the same time, they relaxed and built strong relationships that will last a lifetime.”
T
he New Image Labs 7th Annual International Symposium truly delivered on the promise of “Relax & Learn.” International guests were treated to top level education, a stunning resort, and the opportunity to network with and learn from other studio owners. New Image looks forward to providing another forum for education, motivation and networking this October in Coconut Grove, Miami, as the company gears up for NIU LIVE 2012.
Guests from Holland enjoying the dinner reception.
Presenters Ricky Knowles and Keith Zimmerman along with Tony Sciara, Oscar Urzola, Aileen Velez, Rosmery Estevez, Karen Taylor, and Dana Krangel from New Image enjoying the Welcome Cocktail Hour.
7 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
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machines that needed a dedicated room have given way to a new generation of portable products. John V: The large unwieldy machines that cost tens of thousands of dollars were effective, of course, but there was an inherent problem. They require patients to visit clinics two to three times a week for treatment. If they did not live or work close to a laser center, this limited the number of people that could enroll in a laser program. There was another issue, also. Most transplant physicians were used to seeing a patient once every six months or once a year. But with laser therapy, they were faced with the prospect of people coming in their office every week, which is something they were not set up to handle. Laser therapy for them was really more of a problem than a benefit. So, not surprisingly, there wasn’t fast acceptance of these machines, even among surgeons who could see the long-term benefits. HSJ: But the technology evolved to meet the market’s needs. John V: That’s exactly what happened. These large machines gave way to a new generation of handheld lasers that could be used at home. Today, everyone is aware of the ubiquitous devices that are available on the Internet and just about every catalogue in the world. But these handhelds have a downside also; for optimum results, clients must follow a strict regimen at home - and quite frankly, the majority of people who use these handheld devices become lazy. They get tired of using them, even when they’re working. Women are more motivated to stick with the regimen because for them healthy hair is not a 'want' situation, it’s a 'need'. Men tend to be more ambivalent about hair loss. Women are highly motivated to the point that if it means coming into my clinic three times a week, by gosh, they’ll figure out a way to do it. And if they must use a handheld, they will. In other words, the results they get make it worth the effort. But men have a different mindset. They go to the drugstore and they buy a combination shampoo and conditioner in one bottle just to save a few extra minutes in the morning. A woman may have 15 bottles of various hair products on her bathroom counter. She’s used to investing time and money in her appearance. HSJ: So the challenge was to create a product that would be convenient enough to get men to stick with the program? John V: Precisely. The first step was the handheld laser comb, but although it eliminated the weekly visits to a spa or clinic, it still immobilized you for twenty to thirty minutes as you manipulated the comb across your head. Then, a few years ago, the LaserCap came out. The laser cap has revolutionized laser hair therapy because it provides the power of a clinical device, but can be worn anywhere while remaining totally confidential. You can drive down the road and use it. You can sit in a crowded movie theater, do a laser treatment and the light doesn’t emanate outside of the hat. HSJ: A lot of people don’t know what the laser cap is. Is it a baseball cap? Is it a hard hat? Describe the characteristics. John V: The LaserCap is a structure that contains 224 semiconductor lasers operating at 650 nanometers with an output of no more than five mill watts of power, as is specified by the FDA. Performance-wise, it exceeds or is at least equivalent to a clinical device, but it is configured in a shell that fits inside of any kind of head covering. It fits inside your favorite ball cap, your cowboy hat, or a head wrap. HSJ: What is the power source? John V: The shell is connected by a cord to a small battery pack that you can clip on your belt or stick in your pocket. You can take your clinical laser anywhere in the world and simply recharge it at night on a wall charger. You are free to have a laser treatment when it is convenient for you. For instance, my 26-year-old son wears his LaserCap during his commute to work. He puts the laser cap on in the car, and when he gets to work, he takes it off. In the evening, when he’s home, he plugs it in and charges it back up. HSJ: Is there any risk in having the diodes close to the skin? John V: The laser diodes in the cap are non-collimated. They emit diffuse laser light rather than laser beams. The light spreads evenly once it leaves the laser diode, which is precisely what we want to achieve to cover the entire area of hair loss. The LaserCap may seem simplistic to some, but there is a lot of science behind it. Our chief medical advisor is Dr. Michael Hamblin, who is an associate professor of dermatology and head of the photo medicine department at the Wellman Center at Harvard University. The LaserCap was designed with performance and, of course safety in mind. HSJ: Does any heat radiate from the lenses or diodes? John V: No heat is generated on the surface of the skin by the laser, but your head may feel warm as the result of increased
microcirculation, or blood flow. Some heat is captured in the cap structure, simply because of the inherent inefficiency of electricity. Basically, it's 'comfortably warm'. HSJ: What success has the laser cap enjoyed in the market so far? John V: It’s quite overwhelming. We’re getting inquiries from all over the world. Last week, we shipped an order to Kuwait and another to Dubai. Our distribution network is made up of physicians who may offer in-clinic phototherapy programs or establish medically supervised home-treatment protocols. HSJ: You have referred to medical supervision of the laser program and the importance of following special procedures or protocols. Why is this so important? John V: I have to take you back to what went wrong in the past. There were consultants and companies coming up with all kinds of crazy explanations as to why you lose your hair and how laser light works. That’s not how LaserCap wants their product to be represented. It wants to be sure that the person establishing the protocol is a physician who will explain the procedure properly to the individual and make sure that they’re not experiencing some scalp disease or disorder that should be treated before any hair growth treatment is applied. In my clinic, we use macro photography to identify the nature of the client’s hair loss. Hairs that are gone cannot be re-grown using laser therapy. But hairs that are weak and fine tend to get thicker and appear fuller. All consultations should start with macro photography and a questionnaire covering the client’s medical background. For example, have they been to a dermatologist, seen an endocrinologist, are their hormone levels in balance,etc? When in doubt, the patient should be referred back to their physician to make sure that their general health is sound and what they are experiencing is indeed androgentic alopecia, rather than some scalp disorder.
John prepares his next laser consultation Only then can we be reasonably sure the patient is going to benefit from the LaserCap. HSJ: You talked earlier about people doing their research online and coming to you already pre-educated. Where can they get accurate and reliable information? John V: Oh boy. As you know, there’s just no shortage of technical information on the Internet. I think client feedback regarding their experience with laser therapy is really important. After all, that’s what it’s all about in the end, isn’t it? On my website, HairConsultant.com, I let my patients do the talking. I put them in front of the camera, and say, “Tell me about your hair. Tell me why it bothered you. Tell me what this laser experience has been like.” I have them talk from the heart. I think that is more credible than any kind of commercial message. HSJ: Who is the research team behind LaserCap? John V: Well, of course, the inventor of the LaserCap is Dr. Michael Rabin, who is an MD and also an MBA. Dr. Michael Hamblin from Harvard University is the company's phototherapy expert and David Smith; an engineer from MIT was involved in the physical design. Research is supervised by Dr. Bob Haber, in Cleveland, Ohio. HSJ: Some salon and clinic owners are nervous about getting into light therapy because they don’t understand the difference between a cosmetic laser and a medical device. What advice would you give them? John V: That is an important issue. Currently, there are only two devices that have FDA clearance to market themselves as a medical device for treating hair loss. To secure this FDA clearance required arduous clinical trials and a huge commitment of time and money. Any hair laser that doesn’t have this FDA clearance is a cosmetic device. I preach to all of
my physician customers and anyone else who has light therapy in their clinic to be sure not to imply that this cosmetic device provides a physiological change in the body. As a cosmetic device, we cannot say that we stop hair loss and grow hair. That’s simply not approved, not legal. We can only talk about the cosmetic changes that appear after using the devices. So we talk about thicker, fuller, shinier looking hair. Those are the terms that we’re allowed to use. HSJ: So if it’s above the skin and it’s perceptual, it is cosmetic. If it’s below the skin and it alters or stimulates your body chemistry, it becomes medical. John V: Well, I don’t know where you, pardon the pun, draw the line. All the legitimate devices out there are using the standard 650-nanometer red light semiconductor laser. Each laser company should be abiding by the FDA requirement of no more than five milli-watts generated per diode. We also know from Dr. Hamblin that the light penetrates to approximately the depth of the blood supply to the hair follicle. So there is some penetration of light, but it’s very shallow. I don’t know that there is a physical line that denotes whether a laser is medical or cosmetic. It’s more a question of what you claim that light energy is doing. Look at the shampoo ads; one major company built its whole product line and reputation by implying that they somehow stopped hair loss and improved hair. HSJ: Any other advice you want to give about advertising claims? John V: In December of 2009, the FTC introduced some specific regulations that limit what can be said about many popular advertised products and services, including hair products. They are easily available online, but here are some highlights. Be sure when you’re featuring client pictures in your advertising to make it clear whether they are an actual patient or user of the product. Be upfront and truthful about whether the photos are original or retouched. If the person has been paid to be a spokesman, you need to say that too. Be careful about your product claims because results will always vary. I don’t even say they “might” vary. I say they “will” vary. HSJ: Your website is hairconsultant.com. How do you consult, and what services do you offer? John V: I consult with doctors and hair clinics that want to be involved in light therapy. I typically give them a fairly detailed presentation on how to present light therapy with a focus on how to properly present light therapy in the marketplace, just as we’ve talked about and how to stay within the guidelines of federal regulations. We also talk about proper patient selection. How to determine who makes a good candidate for light therapy and how we can manage that patient’s expectations. Finally, I provide protocols for monitoring patient results. HSJ: If somebody wanted your advice, how would they reach you? John V: My e-mail address is ybbald@Earthlink.net. I have a toll free number, 800-Now-Hair. I am very well optimized on the Internet. I’m easy to find. If you type in “John Vincent hair,” you’re going to find me. HSJ: Your focus today is on laser therapy, but you’re also working with some interesting diagnostic tools that may well be of interest to Journal readers. Tell us about those. John V: I advocate the use of the Hair Check device, which is a unique tool for getting objective measurements of hair density. I educate physicians and their staff how to use mideo microscopes, like the ProScope, and recommend a hair analysis software called Compare View. HSJ: You have a lot going on, so I’m holding our breath as I ask if there is anything else you wanted to comment on? John V: Well, I would like to point out why low level laser light therapy is such a popular (and often the first) choice for those with thinning hair. When you think about it, with all the products and services that are out there- hair transplant surgery, drugs, snake oils, shampoos, thickeners, laser therapy, you name it-- less than five percent of the people suffering from hair loss actually act on these serious emotions! Why? If this is such an issue, why have only five percent acted on it? And my answer to that is fear. Fear of the unknown. Fear of change. It’s kind of like people who stay in bad marriages. They’d rather be in an unhappy situation they know than risk being in a worse one. Laser therapy is a non-risk approach to hair restoration. It has no down side, no side effects. There’s no risk of embarrassment, no risk of drug side effects. It’s just a safe and effective way of treating thinning hair, and that message resonates with the public. That’s why more and more people are reaching out for it. [End of Audio]
8 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
The General is Excited
There’s Great Hair – If You Know Where to Look Jimmy Toscano has been in the hair addition business for over 40 years. He has been an educator and advisor to individual salon owners as well as hair distributors and hair companies around the world. Jimmy’s experience is unequaled, and he is a very sought after authority when it comes to building skills, getting accredited and creating new designs. For many years, he helped the New Image Company with their new product development program and was a frequent guest at their shows and conferences around the country. He has designed hair systems for Apollo and Jon Renau and was invited to teach at several Virtual Reality seminars. In fact, his reputation is so impressive that he was the first educator to have, “hair groupies.” These are people who attend conferences wherever they are held solely for the privilege of meeting and working alongside The General. Most recently, Jimmy Toscano has been spending time developing a new procedure he calls the “rootless knot” and this is a technology that he is incorporating into a new product line called “The Russia Collection.” He is excited to be part of this project because it combines his many years of design and production skills with some of the finest hair available today, hair that comes straight from Russia and is currently being warehoused here in North America. It is his hope that this new collection will restore old production values and raise the bar for the industry as a whole and create more satisfied clients.
Hair & Skin Journal: Jimmy, can we go
HSJ: You have broken all of the rules of hair back to the beginning? I know you followed replacement. The ground rules have always in your father’s footsteps, but there were other been that clients need that privacy and people barbers in the family before him. What are coming in for consultations should never see you, the third or fourth generation? a client coming or going. And, of course, Jimmy Toscano: I’m actually the eighth everything had to be documented with a generation in my family. My grandfather was watertight contract. But you do things very the first one. He came over from Italy and differently. How did this evolve? settled in Chicago where he got one of the JT: This is a family, and like a family, we are first barber’s licenses ever issued in the United always there for our clients. We keep our States. That was back in 1917. It still hangs in family 100 percent satisfied. If I’m not 100 our salon today. It describes him as a “barber percent satisfied with every hair system I put surgeon,” and that’s exactly what he was. He on, I will remove it and give them another actually took my dad’s tonsils out! I still have head of hair at my cost, not theirs. I always all his medical books and his sterilizers and tell my clients, “You should have me sign other tools of the trade. Naturally, I don’t use a contract, I shouldn’t have you sign one, them any more, but that’s how far back we because I don’t want you to be obliged to go. My son, Jimmy, now works with me, so come here if you’re not happy with the work he’s the ninth generation. I have a grandson we are doing. When you don’t want to be too. His name is Vincenzo. Hopefully, he’ll coming here, I too don’t want you coming be the tenth generation! here.” That’s how I feel about it. The formula HSJ: (Incredulous silence for two minutes…). works; we’ve lost no customers. We just gain So it was a foregone conclusion that you new friends. That’s what life is all about, would become a master barber and hair stylist making everybody happy. yourself. HSJ: You continue to grow while many JT: No question about it. It’s a family passion. businesses are having problems staying afloat. HSJ: Obviously you’ve moved well beyond What advice would you give them? basic barbering skills. In fact, you’ve made JT: Just give 100 percent to everything you a lifetime commitment to learning new do. Be committed. You need to be educated techniques. too. I’ve trained people in hundreds of salons, JT: When I first got into the hair business and the main thing they lack is education. around 1968, I worked for a company called We all get stuck in a rut. We keep doing the “Crown” and I saw how they sold their hair same thing over and over again. You’ve got to systems. They would put two people on a be willing to change. I’m 62 years old, and stage, and they played a tug-of-war with this hairpiece to show that it couldn’t be pulled apart. That was their main selling point, the indestructibility. They never, ever cut or styled a hairpiece live on stage. That’s just how bad the hair business was back then. Over the years, I’ve watched hair products evolve, but too many of them still look like hairpieces. Our clients deserve better than that. My whole passion is to make that hair look as real and as live as I can. I feel I have finally reached that point right now with the new work I’m doing. HSJ: Did you start working with hair replacement products because you had a thinning problem yourself? JT: No, I had no thinning problem at the time. I was already a master barber before I went to Vietnam and when I came back, about 1969. I decided to pick up where I had left off. The hair industry really needed help; the hair they were selling looked so bad. Everybody knew who was wearing “a piece.” I wanted to try and change things. That’s still my goal. That’s what I’m trying to do today. In my center, I combine a barbershop, a beauty salon, and a hair replacement center. For the last 20 years, everybody kept telling me, “That will never work.” Well, I have one common waiting area and we run between 100 and 400 people a day through there to our salon, barbershop and hair replacement facilities, and nobody knows who is wearing hair and who isn’t.
Hair looks great wet too! when I think I know everything about what I’m doing, I’ll quit. HSJ: You don’t hesitate to speak your mind, and I know that you will be frank when I ask you what challenges the industry is facing today? JT: Well, right now, the hair has been terrible. Everybody will vouch for this. I probably get 100 to 150 emails a week from people who feel like quitting. They can’t satisfy their customers. And it’s all about the product. They say, there’s a shortage of hair, but I’ve got a problem believing the hair went that bad that fast. Fortunately, there is still good hair out there if you know where to find it. HSJ: What’s the answer? JT: Well, I’ve run into a couple of different people who are turning things around. One of them owns a warehouse full of Russian and European hair and I’ve started to work with him. I’m seeing the best hair I’ve ever seen in my life right now. HSJ: So there’s good hair out there if people have the right connections? JT: Definitely. I’ve cut hair lately that’s better hair than anything I have ever seen… and I’m going back 40 years. HSJ: You told The Journal earlier that you were so impressed with this hair that you offered your expertise to create a new collection that would bring together the best designs and the best hair. You were on a mission to help lift the industry out of its current crisis. What is this collection called? JT: It’s called The Russian Hair Collection. I’m just trying to turn the industry around. As we know, things haven’t been going well for a lot of people and I think it’s because of the lack of technical education as well as the type of
Or wear your hair parted... products we’re using. We need to change all that. We need to make people want to wear hair, not be ashamed. HSJ: What difference would a customer discover if he was wearing hair from The Russia Collection? JT: Well, for one thing, it would feel and behave just like his own hair. I know everybody says that, but we’ve shampooed these systems eight to 12 times, put no conditioner on them and then run a comb through them and we didn’t get any kind of friction, knotting or pulling whatsoever. So you tell me. That’s a real advantage. The denier of the hair is right too, around 40. I’ve never ever worked with anything like this before. It’s incredible! HSJ: Is this a product just for a few rich people or is it something everybody could aspire to? JT: No, this is something everybody can and should aspire to. Like I said, I gave them all the technical advice I could. Great products benefit everyone. I don’t know what price they’re going to put on these, but I would say even if it were one and half times what you are paying now, it would be well worth the money because it’s going to last a lot longer. It’s not like you’re fighting anything. The hair lies beautifully. HSJ: What does this mean for clients who are in a service plan and replacing their hair every four to eight weeks? JT: It depends how the salon owner wants to go about things. But I would say a typical client could get three times the wear out of one of these than they would get out of a disposable hair system. That means less time spent on cut ins, less time spent on orders and shipping and happier clients overall. I’d rather work with happy clients than be constantly putting band-aids on unhappy ones. HSJ: So, if they are not cutting in a new system every visit, could this result in economies? JT: I think it will help all around. It’s just a beautiful product, that’s all I can tell you. It’s a real unique product. HSJ: Changing the subject, Jimmy, why are you called, “The General?” JT: That’s a good question. It goes back to Mike Montemurro, whom I happened to meet at the first show I worked for New Image. Mike’s father was in the Marine Corps, so he started calling me The General. It’s stuck with me ever since. HSJ: How do you see the industry moving ahead? If you could write a blueprint for the next five years, what would you would like to see happen? JT: I would like to see more education. We all need to be accredited and held accountable for what we’re doing. Secondly, the hair factories are going to have to learn to make the product look 100 percent undetectable. We can turn this industry completely around with the right product. Instead of these kids shaving their heads, we can make them want to put hair on their heads. Believe it or not, I have clients as young as 4 years old and a lot of clients between 17 - 30 years of age, both men and women, who wear hair.
9 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
HSJ: You mentioned that you receive several
HSJ: Go ahead. hundred letters and emails every week. What JT: Well, I was sitting at a hair show at New are they telling you? Image - it was a round table with about eight JT: If you’ve been to any of my shows, you’ll people sitting there eating breakfast - and know I tell everyone that we’re all technicians Howard Margolin came over and asks if he can and we should all support each other. My skill join us. I didn’t know him from anybody and level is no higher than anybody that calls me he said, “Have you ever tried this adhesive?” or emails me. If I have a tip, or have solved a And I said, “What’s the name of it?” I don’t particular problem, I’m happy to pass that on. remember what it was called back then, but If they call me with an urgent problem and anyway I replied, “Yeah, I tried it.” And so they have a client in the chair, my wife will he asks me, “How was it?” And I tell him. personally get me on the phone, no matter “That was the worst stuff I ever used in my what I’m doing, and I’ll help them out because whole life.” That’s when he tells me, “Well, I’m I remember being in situations just like that the manufacturer.” All the people around me myself. We’re all in this together. looked embarrassed, so I said, “I’m sorry, but HSJ: So people who write or call can feel you asked me.” Then he says, “Well, I’d like comfortable sharing problems or talking off you to try a newer adhesive we have out. I’ll the record? even give it to you.” I tell him, “No, I’ll buy JT: I’m exactly like them, and they know that. it from you.” So I bought it, and the next year, I am basically a technician. Do I come up I showed up there again. And he’s standing with new technology? Sure I do, my brain is around. He had about 15, 20 people around working 24 hours a day, but I’m the same as him, and I say, “Hey, I’ve been waiting to they are. I’m on the same level as them. All talk to you.” I see him turn bright red and I I do is give them procedures that work well say, “Best adhesive I ever used.” And we just for me and should help make them successful. built a relationship from that to where we are HSJ: I know you enjoy sharing your today. I test all of his adhesives. His wife got knowledge. Do you see yourself putting more really ill from using different chemicals and effort and time into education? different products with all kinds of cancerJT: I probably wouldn’t lean that way because causing agents in them. That’s what put him there are too many other things I’m working on his quest to find safe products without any on right now. But if people need me to come harmful chemicals. Howard’s latest product out to their salons, I’ll actually go there. There line, The Ghost Collection, includes some are a lot of people around the country who of the best products I’ve ever used. The line will vouch for that. consists of: Ghost Bond Copolymer, Ghost HSJ: You have also reached out beyond the Bond XL Copolymer, which has extra moisture hair industry into other support products. For control for oilier scalps, Ghost Mist Finishing example, you have worked with Professional Spray with Argan Oil, and No Sweat, a scalp Hair Labs to develop a new generation of antiperspirant that has been on the market adhesives. for 2 years. This product ensures that the JT: If it can help the hair replacement market, scalp’s oils and perspiration are controlled I’ll get involved. Here’s how the adhesive thing long enough for the bonding adhesive to got started. Can I tell you a story about how properly cure. We use his products and we we met? haven’t had one person with a scalp problem
out of the hundreds who come through our doors every week. HSJ: Jimmy, there is a special lady who’s always by your side. Tell us about Linda and how important she is to you. JT: Well, if it weren’t for Linda, I wouldn’t be where I am today. She’s been a great wife. We’ve been married for 16 years now, and I just don’t know what I would do without her. I went to the American Hair Loss Council Show without her the other week and nobody knew who I was because I didn’t have my wife with me. HSJ: Staying on a personal note, where do you see Jimmy in the next five years? JT: I see Jimmy right where he’s at, doing what he loves best. Keeping people looking great and happy and just trying to create more technology for the industry. One thing my father always told me, “Just be Jim, and you’ll be successful.” That’s who I am. I’m just Jim.
Doesn’t get better than this
Live Hair Transplant Educates Consumers Boca Raton, FL. 07.12 - Dr. Alan J. Bauman performed his fourth web-cast surgery in July on a popular radio show host. Kevin Rolston shared the culmination of his well-known hair loss problem by allowing them to join him in the operating room for his live hair transplant. The webcast, was filmed in HD and 3D, and gave consumers an inside look at a normally private procedure. Bauman is leading the way in a growing trend that gives men and women unique insights into medical procedures. “By inviting consumers into the operating room, and showing them exactly what happens during a hair transplant procedure, they can see first-hand how sophisticated the process has become,” said Dr. Bauman. “Our main goal with these live media events is to show people that hair transplantation is safe, virtually pain-free and completely undetectable. The days of ‘hair plugs’ are long gone. Those who tune-in will see that Kevin and I will be talking live, interacting with the radio audience, taking questions and even tweeting throughout the procedure.”
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12 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
Behaves Like Human Without the Cost A closer look at Envy Hair with founders Alan Eaton and Scott Walmsley Envy Hair, commenced operation in 2010 in the state of Florida. The company was founded by partners Alan Eaton, formerly vicepresident, creative director of TressAllure/General Wig and Scott Walmsley, an investor in various consumer brand businesses. Both executives have impressive business credentials and, true to form, they assembled a support team of seasoned professionals. This experience and vision is paying off as the new products they have introduced have caught on with wig shops and retailers across the country. In under twenty-four months, Envy has gone from a new business concept to well over a four million dollar enterprise, making it the fastest growing hair company in the US today. The company is headquartered in Miami Gardens, FL and trades as Envy Wigs & Hair Addons.
Scott Walmsley, President, CEO
Journal: Scott, you came from a financial and marketing background into the hair business… and never left. Why?
Scott Walmsley: My background is financial advisory
a skin care and a cosmetic brand and building a distribution incorporated in the Envy product. It was this interest that network for a line of natural supplements. While working on supported our belief that we needed to be an innovator in these assignments, along came the Envy Hair opportunity design to succeed in all channels of trade. with Alan. I was already looking for the next project, so the Salon business owners and their customers should never be timing was perfect. I met up with Alan and the team and we underestimated. People want to wear the best to look and decided to partner to start a business together. feel their best. It is this philosophy and belief that drives Alan Journal: What opportunities does your team see in the hair to create products that are different and that bridge the gap replacement and hair add on market today? between hair replacement and the traditional wig and beauty Scott: Let’s start with the hair-replacement industry. I’ve shop channels. I guess Envy has products in its collections that stayed in touch with friends and colleagues working in the can be considered hybrid. They incorporate unique features industry, and through discussions with them it is clear that that serve the needs of consumers in each channel. For example, it is a challenging time for hair replacement. Many industry Alan has created a series of designs that are far less expensive participants are in a state of transition. For example some than fully-hand-tied human-hair replacement products yet companies are contemplating or in the process of a change in the end result is as beautiful and at the quality level of hairownership to solve liquidity or capital issues. Some businesses replacement products. Alan has blended human hair and a are closing and others are seeking to raise capital from third unique high heat synthetic fiber to produce a wig that looks party investors. and feels like human hair at less than half the cost. We have a Fundamentally, salons and distributors providing traditional vast inventory and are able to ship within a few days. hair replacement services face ongoing volatility in the price, quality and supply of human hair products. The Hair- Journal: Are these products for men and for women? replacement world is working through an unprecedented time Scott: No. At this time, we are only focused on the female that creates opportunities for some and heartache for others. market. As indicated previously stay tuned regarding the men’s’ market. Stay tuned, we are working on this issue and have a plan that Journal: How important is it to have a top designer? will provide significant relief to the industry by the end of Scott: It is critical in today’s marketplace. In this fragile the year. economy, hair manufacturers must provide their business clients with unique products that allow them to better service With respect to the synthetic wig/ ready to wear market, their consumers. Partnering with a top designer like Alan, with participants have experienced similar challenges but to a lesser 20 years of experience and an intense passion for wig design level of severity. Supply interruptions have been caused by helps us to provide the competitive edge our customers need factories that have labor issues. Faster growing Asian economies to survive. has resulted in a shortage of qualified employees for many Journal: Your competition has been very astute in the way factories. Prices are increasing but at a lower rate compared to it has positioned its brands. SOCAP, which has an Italian human hair products. Quality is an issue and products must heritage, is playing that Italian card very aggressively. Italy be inspected prior to shipment to the final customer. means flair, passion and design. FOLLEA, another women’s wig competitor, means sophistication, sensuality and Paris chic. And Michael Napolitano’s HairUWear is all about Hollywood and celebrities. How would you define your own brand position? Scott: The brand is positioned as a premium product at an affordable price. We believe we don’t need high priced celebrities to sell our products. The design and technology provides the completive edge. Over time our collection will be expanded and refined to incorporate future fashion trends and new technology. So the position will be preserved. We tell our clients that Envy will always have leading edge designs with unique features to provide a better product to their consumer at an affordable price. By managing overhead expenses we will be able to maintain this position.
and consulting. And so my objective is to seek investment opportunities personally and for clients. The last five years of economic turmoil in North America has resulted in a number of lucrative investment opportunities for investors seeking to own equity in consumer brands. Investment opportunities include companies that have suffered through the economic weakness and are in need of capital for liquidity, restructuring debt or to grow the business as the economy improves. I spend my time looking for these opportunities. Journal: We’ve seen a lot of blue chip companies migrating to the beauty industry where the margins are high. As a result, the hair market is now a crowded marketplace. Why is there a need for another hair company? Scott: It’s interesting to look at the market and see how it has shifted as a function of the changing economy. Envy Hair is a result of this kind of realignment. In fact, it was a corporate restructuring. The international parent company of an existing hair business decided to consolidate North American operations. These situations typically result in operational redundancies and very talented people became available to build a company. One of those key executives was Alan Eaton whose skill set would give any beauty company a steep competitive advantage. In addition, I was looking for opportunities and Alan Eaton and a team of people were available, so we put it all together and 24 months later we have a successful and dynamic new company called Envy Hair. It has been a wonderful experience and we continue to expand rapidly. Journal: Today’s focus may be Envy Hair, but that’s not where the journey began. You had the opportunity to learn about this industry and meet important people during the time you spent with Hair Club At Envy we believe we manage these issues well. Our intent is and New Image and then through association with a number to provide state of the art products supported by best in class of other beauty and personal care companies. How did you service. This has allowed Envy hair to rapidly gain market become involved with these industry leaders? share despite a weak economy. Scott: As an investment advisor my background is transaction work, so when the Hair Club opportunity came along I could Journal: Obviously, you see opportunities since you are see it was a business that had great potential. As an advisor, launching a new collection. What are the characteristics that I helped the majority shareholder purchase and finance the make this product different? acquisition. Following the acquisition, additional work was Scott: Initially, Alan designed our products to target the wigdone to help prepare the business for growth and ultimately and-beauty shop channel. We incorporated unique technology, to be sold to a strategic purchaser. It was then time for me to color blends and styles with this channel in mind. However, move on to the next opportunity with the same shareholder, during our start up phase we were contacted by a few top hair which was to add some infrastructure to New Image to support replacement businesses that were interested in our products its growth plan. Following this I managed various projects to help expand and diversify their business. The technicians including turnaround of a prestige retail salon chain, developing appreciated the focus on quality and unique technology
Hair & Skin Journal turns to Alan Eaton…
Journal: Alan, Scott has used the word ‘leadingedge’ design, what are these ‘leading-edge’ features.
Alan Eaton: When I started creating the
new collection for Envy, I looked back at my past experience to see what features were really important. I was the first designer to bring heatfriendly fibers to Caucasian hair goods. I was the first designer to take lace-front technology to Caucasian hair goods - they were being utilized in other areas of the market but they weren’t offered in the Caucasian market. So when I start looking at creating a line of products, I needed to know what feature would take them to the next level? I asked myself, “Do the fibers look as close to human hair as they possibly can,” “Is the cap constructed in such a way that the fringe or bangs are longer across the front so that client’s are going to get a believable hairline?” Remember, I was a stylist and salon owner for over 20 years early in my career, so that influences how I develop a style and cap construction. I’m constantly trying to improve the consumer experience. Everyone tosses around the term “readyto-wear” and I want to make my designs as ready-to-wear as they possibly can be so anyone, at any expertise level, can take my product straight from the box, put it on their head, and wear it with confidence. I’m always looking at new features, whether it is lace front technology or heat-friendly fibers, so someone could take a product, style it and just treat it like human hair… but without the cost of human hair. Scott: Just as an add-on to that; Alan is quite modest, but what he’s done is remarkable. When I compare his work to
13 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
each coloration is blended differently. The percentage of man-made to human hair is different for each design because of the color that we’re trying to achieve. I designed these 5 styles in unique cap constructions because I wanted to see what cap construction the market would respond to most positively. I also wanted to give as much variety to those 5 styles as I possibly could. Journal: Do stylists require special education or certification to work with Envy wigs? Alan: No. That’s the beauty of it. Envy hair does not Envy Hair Team - Chris Eaton seated on left require any special training. If a stylist can blow-dry hair, other products, I see different materials, different technology they’re going to be able to work with this product. Envy incorporated into the construction - everything from the Hair is only 5 items, but we have close to 40 in our entire beautiful lining that we’ve put into the cap to our unique collection. The other products are readymade items, but they fibers and color blends. are constructed with tremendous attention to detail. If you’ve Alan: Let me expand on the heat-friendly fiber. About eight got the density correct and the features are right, the product years ago I introduced a heat-friendly fiber into the Alan Eaton should function without much hands-on needed. You should Collection and the market responded very well because people be able to take the hair addition or wig straight from the box, were looking for a human-hair alternative. Now the fibers run a comb or a brush through it, put it on your head and that were available at that time have continued to evolve and go out the door feeling confident. when we started Envy, we were approached by a factory that Alan: If I can tell a hair-replacement center, salon or retail had developed a heat-friendly fiber that now had moisture- owner, “You don’t have to take time out to thin this wig. You control properties. The original fiber tended to get frizzy at don’t have to trim it, or do anything to it,” then you’ve just the nape, so this was a big improvement. Also, in the old days, cut down that stylist’s time by 30, 45 minutes and they can if you used a curling iron or hot rollers you would have to move on to the next client and make more money. As a former curl the hair, clip it into place then let it cool so the cooling hair stylist myself, I understand that cosmetologists don’t want process could fix the wave in place. You can imagine, trying to spend 45 minutes shaping, restyling and thinning a wig to explain that to an end-user was a big challenge. But things to make it suitable to wear. Readymade wigs let you increase have changed: the new fiber we’ve chosen for Envy hair can your client turnover without sacrificing quality. be treated just like human hair. You can use a blow dryer, a Journal: Do stylists need special shears or blades to work round brush or a curling iron. You don’t have to wait for the with this fiber? cooling process for the hair to hold its shape. And now the heat-friendly fiber holds in moisture and can be styled just like human hair, we can even blend it with human hair for the best possible look. Journal: There used to be two synthetic fiber types; nylon-based technology which would absorb moisture and needed to be kept moist, and polyester fibers, which were more brittle and did not absorb moisture. Is this a new category that you are describing or a derivation of one of those existing technologies? Alan: It’s a new polyester fiber that has moisture-control Alan: No, you don’t need any special equipment. There are properties. Most of the heat-friendly fibers that you’ll find in lots of great tools out there if you wish, but it’s a personal the market today are polyester, but they still suffer from the choice. Maybe someone wants to go in and reshape the wig problems you described. and will use the shears or use point cutting as a technique and Journal: You mentioned earlier that you combine human texturizer to get a softer edge. Or they could use a razor, the with the man-made fiber. Why? kind that heats up, because it seals the edge of the fiber and Alan: It has to do with coloration - some colorations look creates a really nice finish. better with human hair blended in. On average, we use 70 Journal: When you were doing your original research, what to 80 percent synthetic fiber with anywhere from 30 to 20 were the things salon owners were asking for? percent human hair. We have some styles that are completely Alan: I pay attention to what the market has to say, but hand-tied. I’ve designed five different styles and each one of I’ve found that I do my best work when I draw on my own them is done in a unique cap construction. Some of them are experience. We all are dealing with the same issues; how can I lace-front, mono-top, wefted sides and back, or hand-tied sides increase my profitability while providing good-quality product and back. Some of them are fully hand-tied. One of them is and service. I don’t need to have a focus group to learn that. fully hand-tied with a lace front and offers chiffon lining for I don’t follow what other manufacturers are doing either. If sensitive scalps. So, as you can see, each cap is different, each you try and answer the needs of everyone, you’re never going style is different, each style is available in 25 unique colors and to be really true to anything except trying to chase your own
You don’t have to take time out to thin this wig. You don’t have to trim it, or do anything to it…Readymade wigs let you increase your client turnover without sacrificing quality.
tail. So, yes, it’s valuable to hear the problems, but, at some point, you have to sit down and focus on your vision. Journal: Was that Alan Eaton speaking or Steve Jobs? Scott: [Laughter] Journal: Alan, what do you see as the critical need of the market in the future. Alan: Product availability. Because of my past business experiences, I have developed great relationships with several factories and this allows me to maintain a good inventory of our product. If you have a sound product, good customer service, reasonable pricing and product availability, you’re going to develop customer loyalty. People forget that we’re in a service industry and we are here to serve our customers, whatever the issues. When I look outside our company, I think too many times people are trying to be everything to everyone. As I said before, if you don’t have a vision and you don’t have focus, then you’re really going in circles. The vision needs to be consistent. The focus needs to be consistent. When you do that, your product quality is better, your staff is better trained and you’re no longer chasing the market, you’re leading it! Journal: Does Envy Hair have a brief mission statement? Alan: I think I probably just said it. We’re focused on customer service and quality of product at affordable pricing. And for the record, the brand name is ‘Envy Wigs and Hair Add-Ons.’ Journal: Do you plan to host a conference or a workshop to give retailers an opportunity to meet the people behind the hair? Alan: Eventually we will do that. Right now the majority of our customers are people we’ve been dealing with for many years, so they know my products and they know me. That said, I do see the value of having people meet-and-greet their sales people. Scott: Our experience in the Hair Replacement world proves the importance of training and education. Providing product knowledge was critical given the technology behind the hair replacement products. Journal: Would you like to identify some of the staff Journal might run into if they were to call Envy Hair? Alan: Absolutely. There’s Donna Rojas who has been in the business for about 18 years, Laurel Rewis, who has been a salesperson in this industry for over 20 years, Mercy Russell, who also has over 15 years experience and Vanessa Polanco who has numerous years experience as a sales consultant. Our controller, Marta Marichal, worked with me at my last endeavor and the two members of our Quality Inspection Team have been with me for 12 years and 20 years respectively. So there’s a lot of experience and a lot of talent. Journal: What is the parent company called and who are the executive officers? Alan: The name of the company is Envy Hair, LLC. Scott is the President of the company and I am the Founder and Executive Vice-President. Scott: As a new company, we’re still fairly flat-lined. We have ten employees but we’re growing rapidly. We’re about to add another office location and another warehouse to help with the overflow. Journal: Where would you place yourself in the hierarchy of hair suppliers? Are you up there with the big dogs like On Rite and New Image? Alan: I really don’t know how to place those companies because they are really not in the women’s ready-made market to any great significance. However, I would say that, as a ready-made manufacturer, we have quickly earned a place among the top 5 manufacturers and distributors of hair goods. Scott: We’re gaining momentum every day. I would say we’re the fastest growing out of that group of companies… and that’s how we’d like it to stay.
14 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
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15 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
Some Things Never Change
T
More wisdom from departed legend, Steve DiManni
he hair-replacement industry lost one of its smartest and outspoken icons last year, but Steve DiManni’s wisdom lingers on. Steve provided marketing and advertising services to the hair replacement industry for over 25 years and saw the industry evolve from a wig and toupee based market to a sophisticated multi-solutions market headed by financial analysts and database managers. In July 2012, market-leader, Hair Club changed hands again, reminding us that change is constant. Steve was accustomed to rapid change, indeed his business was creating change since he worked for a prominent New York advertising agency. However, no matter how much the industry restructures, the fundamentals remain the same. In this article, Steve takes us back to basics and reminds us that we are dealing with that most delicate of all emotions, a man or woman’s selfconfidence and that this needs to be addressed with empathy and understanding. Steve believes that strong feelings like these are best addressed through carefully crafted marketing and advertising and urges the industry to invest in consumer research and professional support.
an advertising agency. They’re smart people. E*TRADE has an ad agency. They’re smart people. But people who try to go it alone without professional help, well they’re not smart. If, you had blocked arteries, wouldn’t you go to the best cardiac surgeon you could find? Well if your business is important to you, you want to go to the best advertising people you can find. The industry reached a plateau in the late 90s. Around 2000- 2001, things began to change for the worse. It was a perfect storm. Number one, transplants were getting better and better and the transplant industry was not shy about talking about its improvements. Number two, the hair loss drugs, Minoxidil and Propecia gave people hope. People were saying, why put something on my head or have a transplant? I can sprinkle something on or take a pill and I’ll grow my hair back. Those two factors, combined with the hair loss business not keeping pace with the times and the commercials getting more and more ridiculous, really hurt the nonsurgical hair
If, you had blocked arteries, wouldn’t you go to the best cardiac surgeon you could find? Well if your business is important to you, you want to go to the best advertising people you can find. I want to take Hair Journal readers back in time to the ‘80s when the hair industry as we know it today was still in development. HRS, the brain child of Leo Benjamin, was being developed by Jules Bornstein. It was a marketing cooperative that was soon to become a franchise. Hair Club for Men was about to move from print into its first TV commercials. Monte Carlo, who you don’t hear about today, was a leading hair manufacturer. Print advertising was delivering lead costs at $50 a lead, so if you spent $200 or $300 for an ad in say a New Jersey newspaper, you’d get about five leads. Then we all went on TV and, all of a sudden, we began getting leads at $20-$25 a lead, so the cost was cut in half and the phone wouldn’t stop ringing. Everybody wanted to buy hair. People wanted to know about hair replacement and barbershops and men’s hair salons started seeing their fellow haircutters make money and they wanted to be part of the business too. By the late 80s, everything had kicked into high gear. The industry was being largely driven by Hair Club, but other people were starting to copy Hair Club commercials. Even independent operators would try to copy a Hair Club commercial, sometimes almost word for word. It was the wild West, but everyone was making money. With the passage of time, the consumer got smarter. Everything evolves and the consumer evolves too. So the consumer started realizing that this hair system thing is really like a toupee or hair weave, and the wonder factor left. Unfortunately, the industry did not help matters. It stayed with the same old story of building confidence. “I’m so confident now... I’m confident with all the girls... I’m on the jet ski… I’m on a motorcycle...” There are only so many ways you can demonstrate confidence and security. The advertising showed people doing ridiculous stunts to show that their hair wouldn’t fly off. Why did they even raise the question? Sy Sperling got lucky in the beginning because his early commercials were believable. But when amateurs started making commercials they came up short. That’s why there are ad agencies. General Electric has an advertising agency. They are smart people. McDonald’s has
replacement market... and it has still not fully recovered. Around this time, I moved from HRS to On Rite and we were producing some very effective stuff. We made a lot of money for the studios that ran our commercials. But we could see that the market was going to plateau. Lead costs were rising and studios began to wonder if advertising still worked. What they didn’t understand was it wasn’t the medium, it was the material! Homemade commercials don’t work. Amateurs think they are very creative but they’re not. Many local media don’t even hire copywriters, they write the scripts themselves. They’re trying to be TV producers, Madison Avenue creative directors or Hollywood moguls. It’s an insult to me as a professional who makes TV commercials for living. People constantly come up to me and say, “you know what you should do?” You should do this or you should do that. The saddest part is the people who pool resources and spend a lot of money to produce a commercial and start running it until everyone jumps ship. There was one group that produced a commercial that delivered $800 leads! The guy who was responsible for this disaster bailed out and wouldn’t even run his own commercial. Most of the problems in the hair loss market can be traced back to a dearth of research and a depth of understanding of the market. This is a big problem, but it’s also a real opportunity. Most guys realize that Propecia and Minoxidil don’t work. Or don’t produce results that are sufficient. As for surgery, there will always be people who will be drawn to transplants and others who will rule them out. As for shaving your head, doing the Bruce Willis thing, that’s kind of passé now. So there is still this demand. If you could put your finger on what men are truly looking for, there could be a renaissance of the man’s hair business. The male consumer has not been addressed in a meaningful way for a long time. It’s become a catch 22. Many studio owners think men don’t want to buy hair anymore and so they believe that advertising to them is useless. I don’t know how they think they are going to sustain themselves in the long-term because, although the women’s market is a nice niche Continued on Page 23 ›
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16 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
Need an Extra $200,000? Here’s a way to dramatically increase your cashflow. You already have clients coming to you for hair support. But great hair needs great skin. One without the other does not work. Non-Surgical Facelift: This state of the art technology targets dormant skin cells to restore full cellular activity—it’s like taking your face to the gym! It’s better than Botox, kinder than microdermabrasion and cheaper than surgery. It works with your body, not against it. Immediate Results: Your clients will see results in less than one hour… just look at these photos taken with an iPhone!
How I Discovered Neurotris Face Lift Sculpting Cathie Fennell – Owner, Salon Greco
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y husband (Phil Fennell) is a National motivational speaker & facilitator for the hair industry and has worked with a lot of big companies over the years. At one time Cathie Fennel he worked with a large Hair Restoration company, which decided to add Facial Rejuvenation to their hair restoration services. In September of 2011, the National Hair & Skin Journal’s editor-in-chief, Chris Webb, sent my husband a copy of an article he had published in the magazine on Skin Rejuvenation featuring an interview with Anthony Picciano (founder & chief officer of Neurotris). I read it and knew this was no ordinary Microcurrent machine. So in February 2012 Phil & I flew to Los Angeles to meet with The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation
The treatment is no hype, but real science. Microcurrent is where medicine and engineering meet. (See History of Microcurrent in the sidebar.) Each Neurotris Facial treatment increases ATP (Adenosine Tri-phosphate) by 500%, re-energizing cells whether they are on the surface of the skin, connective tissue or muscles. When cell energy is high, cells can function at peak levels reflecting a more youthful look. Microcurrent also re-trains muscles as it tones. When muscle memory is created, facial features appear lifted and toned. Needless to say, after a couple of days of training we brought the “Miracle Machine” home to Gwinnett. After we got the machine, we decided to do our own case studies with our own clients (not using the ones done at the Neurotris headquarters in Los Angeles). We treated different age groups from 30 year olds, to 40 year olds, 50 year olds and even people over 80 years old. In all cases, there were visible results with
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who distribute this device and get them to introduce me to Anthony so I could have a treatment and learn as much as possible about the “miracle machine”. I was very impressed, not only with my facial treatment, but also with the technology behind the Neurotris machine.
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Our Spa has had three Microcurrent machines over the years and has offered Microcurrent Facials for the last 6 years. However the Neurotris machine impressed me in that it uses specific bioelectric energy signatures on both cellular & muscular levels to accomplish dramatic results. That means that it combines several traditional facial treatments into one, giving clients more results in less time and less money. A regular microcurrent machine targets only the muscles providing facial muscle toning. However a client would have to have different treatments for wrinkle removal, skin toning and elastin & collagen stimulation to achieve total facial rejuvenation. Neurotris combines the benefits of Microcurrent facial, Ultrasound facial, Galvanic facial and Radio Frequency facial, but also offers lifting and sculpting, especially around the jowls and neck.
just one treatment. We took before and after pictures of each client so we can track results. The treatment we call, “Face Lift Sculpting” takes 75 minutes and costs $200.00. We also offer 30 minute Booster treatments for $99.00. Treatments include an application of Firming Lifting Mask & Day Cream. We offer package deals for clients who are serious about facial rejuvenation - 5 treatments at $750, 8 for $1,040, 10 for $1250 and 15 treatments for $2000.00, which can be paid in 4 monthly payments. Face Lift Sculpting can be used by both men & women of all ages for total facial rejuvenation or to target specific facial needs such as: eye lift, facial toning & sculpting, tightening sagging jowls & double chins, reduction of dark circles and puffiness, reduction of acne & rosacea. The treatment is performed at least once a week over several weeks, depending on client’s age and desired results. • Clients under 40 years old: 4-5 treatments over 2-3 weeks • Clients 40-50 years old: 8-15 treatments over 4-7 weeks • Clients 50 & older: 15+ treatments over 5-7 weeks The Face Lift Sculpting is for anyone who wants to look younger, more lifted and toned but is not considering surgery. The treatment does not have any down time, does not cause redness or swelling and is very relaxing.
The History Of Microcurrent: 1943 - Japanese physicians discover Microcurrent as a successful treatment for fusion of broken bones. The technology is used on soldiers during WWII and has remained a standard in medicine until today. 1961 - Dr. Peter Mitchell showed that microcurrent was responsible for the production of ATP (Adenosine Tri-phosphate) in living cells. He received the Nobel price in 1978 for his research in Bioenergetics, which are the chemical processes responsible for the energy supply of living cells. 1978 - Dr. Hunt conducted studies in UCLA regarding the role of the body’s Microcurrent system could be influenced by Bioelectric Signatures. 1982 - Dr. Cheng’s research showed that controlled Microcurrent stimulation increased Adenosine Tri-phosphate (ATP) by 500% resulting in collagen increase, elastin strength, protein synthesis, blood circulation, formation of new blood vessels & an increase in gluconeogenesis. 1989 - Scientists discovered that Bioelectric Specific Frequency Signatures can stimulate or enhance any healing process. 1985 - Dr. Becker “The Father of Electromedical & Cellular Regeneration Technology” proposed that Microcurrent was the life-force behind all healing, growth & cellular regeneration. 2007 - A-1 Engineering (Neurotris developers) discovered a breakthrough in Microcurrent technology & patented “Constant Waveform Morphology” (C.W.M.). By the use of the “Faraday Shield” which blocks all external electromagnetic disturbances & C.W.M. allows for more pure bioelectric signatures to be delivered though maximizing efficiency at low nano/pico currents.
The AgeRejuvenation Nose-Job Can Changing Your Nose Change The Appearance Of Your Age? Until recently hair restoration or a facelift were considered the main surgical procedures that would reverse the hands of time and make a person look younger. Now a new surgical perspective offered by plastic surgeon and rhinoplasty specialist, Dr. Ashkan Ghavami suggests that a simple change to the nose can take years off the face. “The aging process includes the reduction of fat, collagen and muscle that supports and defines our facial features. As we age this loss of structure ultimately changes and our face assumes an aged shape” explains Dr. Ghavami. “The nose is unique in that it maintains its structure better than the surrounding areas of the face. If the nose is large and the tip is droopy or the bridge has a prominent hump, the reduced facial volume makes it look even larger, which exaggerates the appearance of facial aging.” Many patients opt to have their rhinoplasty in conjunction with a formal facelift for the most beneficial effects on overall facial balance and a youthful appearance.
Women Can See More Colors Than Men Who’s Checking Your Hair? Men and women “see” the world differently. Men often struggle to tell the difference between hues, as one in 12 of them are color blind, compared with one in 255 women. Researchers at the Newcastle University in England believe that some women may actually be able to see 99 million more colors than the average human being. Normally, people have just three types of cone cells for detecting different colors, but some women have four. They are called tetrachromats. When looking at a rainbow, these females can segment it into about 10 different colors, while people with three iodopsins can see only seven: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. Perhaps that’s why research has shown that women were more likely than men to have a favorite color and that women prefer tints to shades, while men tend to prefer simple, strong colors. So when you are discussing the right tint for your client, you may want to ask a woman to be the judge. Not only is she more likely to see more colors, she be able to describe them better too:
FOLLEA at NAAF Washington, DC. 07/2012 - Follea recently participated in the National Alopecia Areata Conference in Washington, D.C. The company has become known as an important resource for women with Alopecia, PCOS, lupus, and those undergoing chemotherapy and radiation treatment that results in hair loss. Each year, at this conference, Follea gifts a woman or child who is in need of a wig with a complimentary European, natural hair wig. This year, the company introduced its new ‘Gripper-2 Collection’ which features European hair, lightweight breathable construction, a natural lace-front hairline. They are designed to stay securely in place without tape or glue. The use of medical grade silicone avoids adverse skin reactions.
17 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
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18 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
Annual Meeting of the American Hair Loss Council The American Hair Loss Council (AHLC) hosted a national seminar in Fort Lauderdale in May. In addition to holding its annual board meeting to set direction and policy for the next 12 months, the Council greeted over 60 guests and presented a program of medical and non-medical hair loss solutions. Dr. Alan Bauman talked about advances in hair restoration surgery and professionals from the field of hair additions and hair replacement reviewed the latest products and techniques. Lucinda Beaty was The Journal’s eyes and ears, and she asked AHLC executives and guests to share their experiences. Here are some of the highlights.
Surviving a Slow Economy In a Small Market
By Dennis Murphy
MicroPoint Link demonstration
AHLC Board
Lucinda Beaty: A lot has happened members, which is a great idea. I look forward since last year. There are now 125 members compared with 13 back in 2002. I think over 60 or 70 people attended the conference this year, without counting the distributors, so things are really looking up.
to welcoming them.
information about hair loss from The Hair Journal so I’ve decided to focus on hair replacement in my new place. I hope to partner with plastic surgeons and dermatologists. In my first studio, I do a little bit of everything, but it’s time to expand. I want to subscribe to the paper to stay up to date and learn about new opportunities.
James Toscano: There was a larger turnout than I expected. Everybody had an open mind and was ready to learn, so it was a lot of fun. Last night’s entertainment was fabulous. René Meier was awesome as usual. It’s unbelievable how fast he works how great his models look. Peggy Thornhill
Jackie Donovan: I had a great time. I’ve Lucinda with The General
Rene Meier: No doubt about it. Things are definitely moving forward. As you say, we have increased our membership, in fact, we added more members over the last 12 months than in any of the previous years. Part of that, of course, was due to the fact that we have been able to communicate on a regular basis through “The Link.” We’ve also made some changes to the bylaws and opened up membership to employees of current Hair Loss Council members. In the past, you had to be a business owner in order to be a member. We’re also adding special committees; a committee for trichology; one for the extension industry; and another for laser. With new membership opportunities and new committee members, I think there’s going to be more excitement, more energy, and new blood.
learned a lot and discovered new products that I’m really happy about and will be able to order right away. And as always, it’s been fun. Hopefully next year, we’ll have 200 members.
Bobbie Russell: There was a lot of good information. Just being able to talk with people and exchanging ideas is the best part. Dr. Alan Bauman (L)
Bobbi & Brian Russell
Helena Gibson: The classes were good; lots of information. Good to see familiar faces. Definitely worth the investment. It’s very humid in Florida - thank goodness we’re in the hair business! [Laughter]
Eloise Ferguson: I’m from Hair Regional Training Center in North Carolina. This conference was one of the best I’ve been to in a long time. I like to meet people from different states and countries.
L to R: Dawn Harrison, Rene Meier, Okyo Sthair Founded in 1985 as a non-profit organization, the Council’s mission is to provide non-biased information on treatments and options for men, women and children
I am pleased to say that the efforts paid off and we have actually increased our client base over the last 3 years. I was able to upgrade some in house clients and we also did some local PR that made more people aware of us. This was achieved with hardly any money spent on advertising and a small investment in the salon itself. The fact that I was able to do this is a direct result of my membership in the Transitions Group. Belonging to this group has been so helpful to me in my business that I can’t put a price on it. Even though I am probably the smallest member in the group, I am treated like an equal and can share ideas with some of the largest studios in our industry. I have been honored to be on the board of directors for the last 4 years and I am honored that, at our most recent Meeting in Milwaukee, I was elected the new President of Transitions. My plan is to improve communication and use my Presidency to drive this group effectively into the future.
Peggy Thornhill: We are excited to have
Shenome Lashelle: I work in Oakland, California, and I’m planning to open up a studio in Sherman Oaks. I got a lot of
This really hit home with me. Upon arriving home, the first thing I did was call my remodeling guy and set up a meeting. I told him that I wanted to “spruce” up the office and make it look as professional as we could. We had a very nice office to start with but the decor was more personal than professional. A new coat of paint and a couple of small furniture pieces, some very high quality hair pictures and the place looked brand new. I also sat down my small staff and we talked. I told them that I really wanted us all to take extra care with our clients. I made the statement that I don’t know if we will pick up any new business, but let’s not lose anyone that we have now. I made a point of speaking to every client who walked in the door and told each of them how happy we were to have them as a client. Many of them noticed the remodeling work that was done and asked why I would spend money to do that with the times being what they are. My answer was, “I know you spend your hard earned money to come see us and I want to make your experience as pleasant and comfortable as possible”.
experiencing hair loss.
Rene Meier
so many new people with us today as well as some of the original Council founders. We have more manufacturers and distributors participating than we’ve had in a long time and the education has really been good. We’ve also created a new class of associate
When I talk to my fellow hair replacement professionals, the conversation usually starts with, “how’s business?” This has seemed much more so in the last couple of years. I have been fortunate enough to reply in the positive even though we are doing business in what would be considered a small market. At our fall meeting in 2008 Loren Weeks, our member from Indianapolis, gave a talk on getting back to our roots and focus on what has made us strong in the past. By focusing on being the best hair replacement specialist that you could be, you could concentrate your effort to be successful. He talked about being professional as well as personal in your relations with your clientele. Also an effort was going to have to be made to go above and beyond with customer service if you were to maintain and survive an economic downturn.
A good time was had by all...
Dennis Murphy is President of the Transitions International Group and owner of HairQuarters, Surfside Beach, S.C.
19  The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
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21 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
Hair
and
Skin Society News
From The Boardroom Welcome to the Summer 2012 Issue of The National Hair Journal Society Page. I hope everyone is having a great Summer. As you may have read in the Spring 2012 edition of The National Hair Journal, The National Hair Society has changed its name to The National Society Of Hair And Skin Rejuvenation. The Society is headed in a new direction to create new profit opportunities for its’ members. We will be introducing more skin and health care products, so that your clients can become better informed.
New Society Website – Since The Society is including more skin and health care opportunities for its’ members, there is a new website to reflect these changes. Please visit www.hairskinsociety.org. You can read more about our Skin Rejuvenation Program. In the meantime, you can still visit www.nationalhairsociety.org.
E-Mail Blasts – Many Society members and Journal Readers may have noticed the e-mails that have been sent recently regarding
Wholesale Society Member information, trainings and product information. The e-mail blasts are one of the many benefits of Society membership. If you are a member and want to let Society and Journal readers know about an upcoming education training or product, please contact me at hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com or by phone at 619-928-9750.
Skin Rejuvenation Program – The hair replacement and hair restoration market is saturated. Salon owners are looking for new profit centers. Neurotris is a bio-engineering company based in Southern California. The company has developed a skin rejuvenation device, the SX 3500, which delivers immediate and demonstrable skin tone benefits using micro-current technology. Micro-current has existed since the late 70’s ad the latest from Neurotris offers significant performance at an affordable price. The income potential is very significant and a center servicing 100 clients could gross $225,000 a year or more. For further information, please contact me at 619-928-9750 and visit the Hair Society website at www.hairskinsociety.org. Once you have taken a look at the information, I can provide more details about how to get to see a live demo, how to purchase the device and get trained.
Trichology Treatments Improve Quality Of Life
www.hairskinsociety.org
Lucinda Beaty Receives Master’s Certification Lucinda Beaty of Lucinda’s Hair Additions in Cheshire, CT has been recognized as a Master Hair Replacement Specialist, Board Certified by the American Hair Loss Council. Lucinda has been in business since 1982 and believes strongly in the importance of continuing education. She makes a point of attending conferences and workshops round the world. She was one of the first salon owners to visit the hair factories in Asia with the Hair Society Insight Group and has recently returned from the XXXX conference in Germany. Lucinda has been a board director of The National Society of Hair & Skin Rejuvenation and is currently completing an advanced course in medical prosthetics so she can help women undergoing chemotherapy. Lucinda Beaty is a one of a kind and we congratulate her on her many achievements.
“Value Added” Benefits to Attract and Retain Your Best Clients By Lisa Zimmerman We all want to attract and retain clients in our best (and most profitable) hair programs. And a great way to do this is to offer special benefits to members of your elite programs.
The following is an abstract of a paper published in the Journal of Applied Cosmetology.
Hair is a significant component of physical attractiveness and body image. Therefore, losing hair often affects an individual’s self-image, self-esteem and overall quality of life. A study was designed to determine whether cosmetic hair appearance improvements produced any quality of life changes for women with female pattern hair loss (FPHL). The study assessed quality of life changes during a six month period that patients attended Dr. David Kingsley’s trichology center in the United States. Each participant attended the trichology center every 4-12 weeks. The participants were advised of lifestyle changes to help their overall hair condition and given topical British Science Formulations products, supplements, and treatments to help improve the cosmetic look of their hair loss problems.
All participants were given the Kingsley Alopecia Profile (KAP), a reliable measurement for the psychological effects of hair loss, to complete at the initial consultation (month 0). The questionnaire was also given after six months of cosmetic treatments. The results demonstrated significant improvements in quality of life after 6 months of treatment (p < 0.0001). This improvement in quality of life was indicated by a lower KAP score. The importance of hair loss to an individual’s general quality of life should not be underestimated. This study has confirmed the results of many previous studies that FPHL has a major effect on the psychosocial and emotional well-being of women. With the lack of a reliable medical cure, chronic concerns of hair loss can lead to long term psychological problems. Therefore, topical trichology treatments, as used in this study, for the treatment of FPHL have been shown to be of great value with respect to the global improvement of the quality of life. For more information, see: Journal of Applied Cosmetology 30, 49-59 (April/June 2012)
Hair Clinic Wins Talk of the Town Award N. Huntingdon, PA. 07/2012 - With a 5-star rating two years in a row for outstanding customer service, New Image Hair Clinic has again won the prestigious CMUS Talk of the Town Customer Satisfaction Award in the Health & Medical Hair Replacement category. The award honors companies and professionals
that provide excellent service as reported by their customers. Owner, Frank Petrosky has been in the hair replacement industry since 1969. After his wife Lori finished her studies at Pittsburgh Beauty Academy, they opened New Image Hair Clinic in 1982.
Lisa Zimmerman By special, or “value-added” benefits, I mean bonus services offered to clients at no extra cost. These benefits enhance the client experience and provide your salon or center with a powerful, competitive advantage. It’s all about strengthening your relationship with the client. It also provides a wonderful “upsell” opportunity to turn “good” clients into “great” ones. At NHC, we offer a variety of benefits to our elite, VIP clients. Here are some examples: • Automatic upgrades to our newest technologies… at no charge. • Complimentary color. • Discounts on all hair products. • Warm steam towels during service. This makes the hair service a more relaxing and enjoyable experience. • Free Wi-Fi during hair service. An inexpensive, but huge bonus for clients who want to be web-connected, 24/7.
• Complimentary wine, beer, bottled water, soda, or gourmet coffee. Serving alcohol may be controversial to some, but offering a variety of beverage choices helps create a spa-like oasis for your client. NOTE: If you do decide to serve beer or wine, check local laws and restrictions. Here in Phoenix, for example, we are legally allowed to serve clients wine and beer, as long as we don’t charge for it. • Complimentary light snacks and treats. Easy and inexpensive to provide, and clients “literally eat them up”. • Complimentary facial hair waxing. We offer this as a “paid” service for all clients, but for our elite program members, it’s complimentary. You may already offer some of these benefits to clients. In that case, it’s important to package the benefits together so that clients can see the full value. At NHC, we provide our VIP clients with a benefits checklist at the time of each hair service so they can decide what to utilize at that appointment and which benefits to hold over until next time. It’s a great way to continually thank clients for their business and remind them of how truly special they are. Implementation of a value-added benefits program for your best clients, while inexpensive in terms of marketing dollars, can do a lot to increase the perceived value to the client. And, enhancing the client relationship is what it’s all about!
At NHC, we provide our VIP clients with a benefits checklist at the time of each hair service so they can decide what to utilize at that appointment and which benefits to hold over until next time.
22â&#x20AC;&#x192; The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
23 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
‹ Continued from Page 15
for them, fewer women lose their hair than men. It’s a nice market segment and has served the industry well, but you can only take the cream off the top for so long. At some point we will have taken all the cream, and then they’ll not be in great shape. How do we turn things around? I think priority number one is more research. Ideally as an industry. At On Rite, we did a series of focus groups with men and women that Andy Wright paid for out of his own pocket. We came up with some very interesting insights. There were two groups of men, two groups of women. Of course, focus groups are qualitative, not quantitative, but you can see the red flags. One of the flags that came up in three of the focus groups was, “If they talk about confidence one more time in these commercials, I’ll rip my hair off. I’m not doing this for the confidence. That doesn’t have anything to do with hair loss – it’s demeaning to say that.” What you’ve got is the industry pushing this button called “confidence” and the consumer saying, “No, no, no.” And every time you say “confidence,” you drive the consumer away. And now people are sitting back saying, advertising doesn’t work. That’s not true. Advertising does work. You just need the right approach. We’ve tried some small stuff like radio. And we got a lot of leads. So advertising is working. I was talking recently with several salon owners who put the commercial on the air to see what happened and they were shocked. My message to salon owners is you have to work with professionals. You are doing yourself an injustice if you’re not getting marketing materials that keep up with the changing consumer. There’s always going to be attrition, you’re always going to lose clients, so you have to keep replacing clients otherwise you’re going to grow smaller and smaller. Studios have to address the fact that it’s a more complex marketplace out there. The appeals that worked so well in the past just don’t hold water today. We have to find new ways to reach out to the consumer, and studios have to open their wallets. A lot of studios say, “I just put up a website.” Fine, but the arrival of digital media is really complicating matters.
People think that the Internet is free. Digital media is not free. Unless you put money into a website it’s not going to work. You either have to pay for key words or pay per click on the search engine. You are also going to need your own administrator. You have to have a carefully crafted website and you’d better be using traditional media like print or television to drive traffic to it. You cannot just do it digitally. People are trying to do things on the cheap and they getting very little back because they’re putting very little into it. You get what you pay for.
It’s a feeling.
How do you know what works? I would talk to other studio owners. I would see what they are doing and then I would sort through that advice. I would talk to a lot of people. Not just my friends. I go to industry conferences. Every manufacturer has a conference. Find out what’s working for other people. A lot of studios are trying out-of-the-box marketing techniques like getting ads posted in health clubs or getting on the closed-circuit TV in spas and health clubs. There are all sorts of alternatives out there. See what successful people are doing, and stop listening to the naysayers. All the negative people say you can’t make money. But there are a lot of people out there who are doing well. What they are not doing is following what worked in the past. They are looking to the future. I wish we could change our industry culture. If one day a famous Hollywood actor came out of the closet and said, “you know what? My beautiful hair is not all my own hair. I’ve had a hair replacement for years.” Then, all of a sudden, perhaps, things would change. Until then, they’re always going to be those jokes. I mean, there’s a lot of stuff about Joe Biden’s hair transplant when he was running for office. There’s only so much you can do about it. Of course that are actors who have had a hair replacement like Nic Cage or John Travolta. There’s a reason for that. Everyone makes fun of William Shatner but he is almost 80 years old and he looks like 1 million bucks. He’s had a hair replacement for I guess about 50 years now. And I’ve got to say it, I think the guy looks great. I don’t know if William Shatner would be William Shatner if he didn’t have hair!
Good News for Robots Restoration Robotics’ ARTAS System Receives CE Mark to Treat Hair Loss
MOUNTAIN VIEW, CA. 07/2012 Restoration Robotics, Inc., manufacturer of the revolutionary ARTAS® System received CE Mark Certificate (Conformité Européenne) to market in the European Union. The ARTAS System is the first physician controlled, computer assisted technology that allows harvesting individual follicular units directly from the scalp. This minimally invasive solution utilizes sophisticated digital mapping and precision robotics to deliver permanent
Beauty is more than a look.
and natural looking results. “Receiving the CE Mark for Europe is a major milestone that indicates our FDA-cleared solution also meets the quality and safety standards required by the international healthcare marketplace,” said Jim McCollum, Robotics’ President and Chief Executive Officer. In February of this year, the ARTAS System also received a Canadian Medical Device License permitting it to be marketed and sold within Canada.
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24 The National Hair Journal Summer 2012
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