2013 Winter

1 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

People

Anti-Aging

Technology

Insight

Memoirs of a hair loss web designer.

Leading researcher shares stem cell secrets.

The story behind the newest hair fiber.

Why one banker believes in Cesare Ragazzi.

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Volume 17 No 67

Europe’s Biggest Hair Replacement Trade Show “Die Zweithaar”

The United States may be the center of the hair replacement world, but ‘the times, they are a changing’. Today, many of the top distributors are owned by Chinese or Japanese investors and as the search for premium products heats up, European designers and manufacturers are also beginning to flex their muscles. For the 7th year, the German Association of Hair Replacement Specialists (www.bvz-info. de) will be organizing Europe’s biggest hair replacement exhibition in April 2014. Up to 600 studio owners and manufacturers are expected to visit the two-day event in central Germany which has adopted the theme “Cross-industry networking” to promote better understanding and success. “In the constantly merging health industry, where the focus is more than ever on the patient’s best interest, it is important to bond with other specialists

in this market.” says Peter Volk, President and Chairman of the BVZ. Over the last couple of years “Die Zweithaar” has become a state of the art show in Europe, encompassing 22,000 sq ft and 19 show rooms. Product information, fashion shows, hands on classes and seminars on economic and quality issues have attracted hair replacement professionals from Germany, Scandinavia, Benelux, France, Italy and even the Far East and the United States. “Two years ago we opened the trade show for non-members of the BVZ and since then, the number of visitors has doubled,” says Ramona Rausch, executive secretary who is responsible for the organization of the show.

“There is no other comparable show in the hair replacement industry anywhere else in Europe.” “Die Zweithaar” is a business-tobusiness exhibition, and not suited for end users.

The Professional Publication of Hair and Skin Rejuvenation

Winter 2013/14

More Proof That Lasers Work

Leadership Changes at New Image

Boca Raton, FL. 01/14 - Four peer-reviewed studies released in The American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, provide further evidence that low-level laser light therapy (LLLLT) can arrest or even reverse hereditary hair loss. For years, dermatologists have recommended laser therapy as one of the few effective treatment options for hair loss, and this latest research provides further evidence that laser pioneer, the HairMax LaserComb safely and effectively regrows hair in both men and women. The multicenter, randomized, double blind study, comprised 225 males and females diagnosed with pattern hair loss who were given either a HairMax LaserComb or an inactive sham device. In 26 weeks, participants using the HairMax LaserComb showed an average increase in hair count of 139 hairs per square inch. They also reported an overall

improvement in the thickness and fullness of their hair and no serious side effects. The studies were conducted in major teaching institutions of dermatology, including the Cleveland Clinic, University of Minnesota and University of Miami.

Actress Reveals Alopecia in 20/20 Documentary

Los Angeles. 02/14 - In a moving and intimate TV documentary, that aired on ABC’s 20/20 in February, actress and model Georgia Van Cuylenbur, told viewers how she began to lose her beautiful, naturally blonde hair at the peak of her career as a Hollywood actress and top hair model. She told the show: ‘My hair defined my beauty… it was my calling card.’ In 2007, she was officially diagnosed with alopecia as her condition worsened and was advised to keep her condition secret or risk losing new assignments. Believing that frankness and transparency is the best way to deal with life’s setbacks, Georgia took the opposite tack and openly discussed her predicament, even making a documentary about it. The result? Georgia Van Cuylenburg, continues to enjoy career success, and will star in a new feature film later this year. When she is not performing, 26 year old Georgia shares her experiences with other young people battling alopecia. ‘This is my role and what the truth can actually do to help others is way more important than feeling sorry for myself.’

PRO HAIR LABS’ GRANTED TEMPORARY INJUNCTION A suit by Howard Margolin, owner of Professional Hair Labs (PHL), against former employee Larry Morris continues, but the Court has already granted a Temporary Injunction requiring Morris to cease from using “Trade Secrets” in competition. Howard Margolin is one of the pioneers in the hair

care industry. What Morris knows about the hair care industry, he admittedly learned during his time at PHL, under Margolin.

The Court has not yet ruled on the issue of damages and the Permanent Injunction.

Margolin’s primary concern in the litigation is to protect his high standards for health and effectiveness in the product lines and to protect the privacy and professional interests of his clients and customers that he has developed over his 38 years in the industry.

Morris agreed to be contractually restrained from competing with PHL/Margolin in the event he was ever terminated from PHL, something that took place in May of 2012.

He had also agreed to protect Margolin’s

Joey Fatone Gets Transplanted

Beverly Hills, 01/14 – ‘N Sync member Joey Fatone is feeling more confident these days after having his hair restored by Bosley.

“Performing in front of a live audience can be pretty intimidating, so having a full head of hair was important to me,” said Fatone. “Back

then, I was the only one in the group getting thinner on top. I became self-conscious and started wearing hats more often.” Fatone says he doesn’t care who knows about his secret to success. He’s so pleased with having a full head of hair, that he’s ready to tell the world he’s

Oscar Urzola replaces Tony Sciara as President

West Palm Beach, FL, 01.14 - New Image Labs Corporation has a new president, Oscar R. Urzola, following the resignation of former President Anthony Sciara. Oscar’s career in hair replacement spans almost three decades.

As the company’s former Vice-President of Sales, he has intimate knowledge of the New Image client base and is familiar with US and international hair markets. He also heads the New Image Research & Development Division. Oscar Urzola has worked with many hair icons, including Randy Martin, and has traveled the world to establish new hair production sites. He is no stranger at the Asian hair factories and has established relationships in China, Indonesia, Vietnam and Cambodia. Oscar R. Urzola states, “I gladly accept this appointment and look forward to taking New Image Labs Corporation into a successful future.” proprietary interests in his clients, customers, vendors and suppliers, acknowledging that they constituted “Trade Secrets”. Margolin is seeking Permanent Injunctive relief and whatever damages that are determined to have resulted from any violations by Morris.

Other parties that participate with Morris in knowingly assisting him in his violations can also be liable for damages.

PHL is the provider of advanced hair care and attachment products including Ghost Classic and Ghost Supreme cosmetic bonds and is recognized in the industry for developing other hair and scalp care products.

the latest face of Bosley. Fatone is featured in Bosley advertising, including national and local television, web and social media. ‘N Sync has sold more than 50 million records worldwide and still remains one of the biggest groups of all time.

2  The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

3 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

From

the

Fond farewells - Much as we urge readers to update their business and move with the times, I have to admit that change is sometimes uncomfortable. And never more so when you lose old friends. So it is with a heavy heart that we bid adieu to Tony Sciara, ex-president, New Image Labs and Darla Smith, V-P, International Hair Goods. Like any other industry (or political party), it is, of course, healthy to refresh the organization, but that doesn’t mean we don’t miss our peers when they move on.

Choices – You now have choices. For a small industry, you are fortunate to have two publications to bring you hair loss news, ‘The National Hair Journal’ and ‘The Link’ from The American Hair Loss Council. More news is good news. Two publications keep a better check on manufacturers, distributors and each other. So what sets us apart? Well, there are things that a not-for-profit can do more credibly, like set curricula for education and conduct examinations. When it comes to accreditation and resolving ethical issues, the objectivity of a non-profit organization cannot be called into question. AHLC is well equipped to perform this important function. The Hair Journal on the other hand is a business tool; it is designed to provide marketing information for decision makers.

For fifteen years it has helped business owners understand industry trends and opportunities and help them grow their business. The Journal introduces its readers to the men and women who make the news; the researchers, the pioneers, the CEO’s. If you want to know where the market is going, we are your roadmap. Your clients are better informed than ever before, but with two information sources, you are sure to be ahead of the game!

Lasers have been in the news a lot recently and readers will notice that laser manufacturers and distributors are advertising aggressively too. So what led to this resurgence? Simply put, the evidence continues to mount that light therapy is a very effective hair maintenance therapy.

After years of skepticism on the part of the medical community and a lot of confused marketing, LLLT has finally reached maturity and good products with serious support are reaching the market. The FDA is taking notice too and each month brings news of new trials and new clearances. If you are not offering light therapy in your clinic or studio, now is the time to rethink that strategy. The consumer is reading the same positive research

To

the

Dear Journal, Thank you for taking my letter to the editor about my studies at the World Trichology Society.

I am proud to say I have now passed the exam and am now an officially certified Trichologist.

The purpose of this note is to offer to tell others about my journey. Briefly, I have been a hairdresser since 1976. I owned several salons, worked for large manufacturers, taught business classes to owners and stylist. When my daughter Carli turned 9 (about 14 years ago) her hair fell out due to Alopecia Areata.

We were both devastated. I could fix anything, but I couldn’t fix that. For years, we went to NAAF conferences and I started a fund-raiser, a run called “The Tortoise and Hair.” We

Editor reports that you are, and they expect you to offer all hair loss solutions. After all, isn’t that what you promise on your website?

Finasteride or else - In a previous editorial, I mentioned that I had been reading sensational reports about the side effects of Propecia and that I was thinking about dropping my prescription. It was not that I had experienced any negative side effects but I was curious to find out if there was any “upside” that I was missing out on.

Like a good editor, I contacted one of my professional advisors, Dr. Washenik, medical director at Bosley, and he told me to stick with the program. It had always worked for me, he said and it would continue to work for me. But like so many other clients, of course I ignored this good advice and now I am paying the price. Libido-wise, there had never been a downside so there was no upside.

As for my hair, I didn’t notice anything for the first month and a half, but then one morning it struck me that my temples had definitely receded. And over the next few weeks I became aware of the light shining through my hair as I brushed my teeth in front of the bathroom mirror. It had become finer. Today, six months after I threw out my Finasteride tablets, my hair continues to deteriorate and something I took for granted is now a source of discomfort.

Next week I plan to start Finasteride again and hope it will reverse some of the damage. Deep down, I know it will only prevent further hair loss, but like every client in your consultation room, I too am hoping for that silver bullet.

Coming next issue – Technology is changing the world around us; the ways we communicate, the way we entertain ourselves, and, yes, the way your clients seek hair loss solutions. In recent issue of The Journal we have interviewed the medical team behind the Artas System, the “robotic” procedure that is re-writing the way people think about hair transplant surgery. In our Spring 2014 edition, we introduce you to Tamim Hamid, the man who developed Theradome, a new laser that offers users the power of a professional device in a portable design that can be used at home. And, as always, you’ll get a full report on the shows and conferences you were not able to attend.

So until next time, here’s wishing you anagen!

Editor raised a lot of money for them. I was on the support call team too. Then Carli wanted to try hair, we went to the best; Bobbie Russell.

I didn’t know she was the best at the time, but knew what I was looking for. After that, I decided to go to On Rite and take classes in hair replacement. I have multitasked for 10 years now going to all types of educational events. I take care of my regular clients and hair replacement clients.

A few years ago I read about Trichology. I just knew that was something I would love to learn; so here I am; a cosmetologist, hair colorist, certified hair replacement specialist, teacher, and Trichologist. Life is good. I can help people in all areas of hair and scalp.

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4 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

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Memoirs of a Web Developer

By Michael Garcia.

5 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

liant, and I mean that. But he earned his stripes under the tutelage of these crusty, old school Madison Avenue ad guys, so much of what he produced for On Rite’s advertising programs was abstract and a sort of “smoke and mirrors” approach. Meaning, don’t tell people what they’re really buying until you have to.

Michael Garcia is Vice President of Marketing and SEO at BrightBulb Solutions, a creative agency in Los Angeles where he manages marketing portfolios, develops brand identity standards and designs long-term SEO plans. The National Hair Journal once described Michael as, “The best kept secret in the hair loss industry,” but his cover was blown when he created an outstanding website for the OnRite company, Hairloss.com. In this very personal article, Michael reminisces about his years working for Richard Farrell and OnRite and the personal and business challenges he faced as he worked to destigmatise hairloss and deliver the kind of information men and women needed. Michael’s mission is neatly summarized on his LinkedIn page, “I am typically interested in artistic projects and those projects that spread Good Will and Good Karma into the world. Something good.”

I was saying, tell the customer everything up front. The potential plusses. The potential minuses. Everything. With Steve’s approach, the studio could pick up new clients but I was convinced that they couldn’t keep them as clients after the first sale. I had already been through all of that at Farrell, where all of our first sale advertising was superior. We could attract clients, but because of production problems and shortcomings with client service, we couldn’t keep clients. Which created this sense of incredible urgency to keep making the first sales because we weren’t making the money in ongoing service and maintenance that we needed to. Whether you’re talking about hair systems or cars, a hair loss company needs that service revenue to survive.

When I was at Farrell, Richard and I used to sit around strategizing and we’d look at On Rite and say, “Gosh, how can we get that big? And you know Richard and Andy are very similar in that, well, they’re both Irish. Richard was extremely driven to success and he had the work ethic to make it happen. What we didn’t understand back then was that On Rite was successful because of Andy’s massive commitment to his clients. Andy has mastered that. I would never have believed that someone could have that much commitment until I began working with him.

Steve and I ended up coming together finally. Several months before his death, he had written a long column about marketing and advertising in the Hair Journal that I thought was the single most important marketing document ever written for hair loss. He was in a sense really spilling, for free, some extremely valuable information to Journal readers about marketing in this industry. So I called him to congratulate him on the column; I told him I thought he was very generous to share that many important insights with readers and it was then that I realized how much he really did care about the studio owners. Whether or not we agreed on how to help them, to my mind, there was no doubt that he cared as much as I did and I told him so. And he appreciated it.

Richard was committed to his product. Before he was a businessman, Richard is an artist, so Richard wasn’t committed to client service as much as he was driven to produce the best hair systems. And we all know that a hair replacement company can’t survive that way. You have to provide an equal measure of quality product and service. In the commitment to clients department, Andy is number one.

You know, it’s funny. On Rite was on such a different level. Andy and I got to know each other over a series of late night phone calls where we discussed marketing and advertising.

The first time he called me was at 8:00 PM my time. That’s 11:00 in Florida! By the time he invited me to Florida to meet with him and his executives, I felt pretty confident that I could hold my own. It was Andy and David Schwartz and some other people and the meeting started and I was getting pummeled by tough questions about marketing hair. It was an inquisition! At first I was taking notes, thinking I could write a proposal later in the week or get back to them on the answers.

And then Andy would say, “Well…” and I was thinking, Oh my gosh, he wants an answer right now. That’s when I knew I was playing at a different level. I had two days of this. Andy is an extremely smart person and he’s able to see things like an eagle and then dissect them down to the smallest detail. You have to be able to keep up with him and follow him. As soon as I calmed down and had lunch, I pulled it together stayed with him and over the years, I’ve been able to work and learn from someone who is extremely smart, successful, visionary, committed to his clients and do it all with some oldschool integrity and caring.

Just a couple of weeks before he died, OnRite had replaced David Schwartz, who was running the operation for Andy. Steve and I were both very fond of David and not so fond of his replacement. So he called me to commiserate and we ended up talking for two hours and we agreed to focus on what we saw eye-to-eye on, which on that particular day seemed like a lot, and we were going to join forces and work together to really help Andy help his clients. He said, “Let’s put this thing into light speed.” We started making concrete plans to meet up in Florida to spend three days together and I was excited. Next thing I knew, Andy was calling me to tell me the bad news.

I think that everything needs to become completely transparent. The Internet is forcing that to happen in just about every industry anyway. But in the hair loss industry, especially in terms of hair replacement and hair extensions, the approach has to be as straightforward as it can be.

When I started at Farrell, Richard had materials that most of the industry didn’t have. So his marketing at the time focused on the best hair, the most transparent base, the best adhesive. You know, the materials. But as the price of a single hair system skyrocketed from $1500 for one to $3800 for a pair of them, it forced us to change the marketing. I said to Richard, charging this much for even great materials was enough to piss off the good humor man. Let’s stop focusing on the hair system itself and instead tell the story of what this hair system can do for the client, which is restore self confidence, restore youthful appearance, restore self esteem. And all of the sudden, it didn’t seem so expensive. Because when hair systems are done right from design to delivery, it is priceless. I know that because I used to wear hair.

Andy is a tough businessman. When I would see him at conferences, I would think, that guy looks tough; he’s probably the veteran of a couple of dozen pub Michael Garcia, VP Marketing, BrightBulb Solutions. brawls. Then when you meet him, you realize So where does it leave you? If we assume the he’s this very sensitive, caring person. He cares quality of all hair systems materials to be the same … which I don’t believe is the right about his employees and he cares deeply about his clients. And he cares about his clients’ assumption … but if we were to assume it all to be the same, then it comes down to the clients. It’s still there, after all of these years. That’s why he’s still in the game. He really artistry and creativity and ability of the person who can put a hair system on you. Who can cares. And honestly, his input remains relevant. He’s sharp as a tack and has a very open design it, cut it in, style it and make it blend with your real hair and make it realistic. And mind. not everyone can do it at the level where the hair disappears into your own and it doesn’t look like you’re wearing a wig or a hairpiece.

Well, I think Andy Wright was certainly visionary in offering his employees a piece of his company. That’s just smart business and he has some very loyal, hard working key people That’s all that matters. That’s the marketing angle for the industry today. If you’re a small that have been there for a long time. And I think he was incredibly open minded to allow hair replacement company in a town with one or more competitors, you’re marketing the me to develop hairloss.com as I did. The site presented a ton of new information about ability of your stylists. You make them stars. And if they can make your clients look like hair loss in relation to total human health. It challenged people losing their hair to think of their hair loss not as this problem that exists in a vacuum, but in relationship to the total a million bucks, they are stars! Richard Farrell had mediocre stylists and then he had very good stylists and he had stars. People would fly into Los Angeles to have certain stylists cut health of the body. them in. That’s where most of the magic happens anyway.

To my mind, the future of hair loss is not as a cosmetic issue but as a health issue. Our hair The hair loss industry has to change along with the culture. This culture has changed a lot and skin is the canary in the coalmine and they’re telling us about our total emotional and and it’s reflected in the politics and entertainment and corporate culture. The industry, as physical health and nutrition. I believe that in the not so far distant future we’re going to find that hair loss is much more affected by environment, stress, nutrition and so on. So on a whole, needs to work together to shape culture. All the different factions of the industry, HLDC, we tell people, hey, if you’re losing your hair, get healthy. Get happy. Lose weight. the National Hair Society, AHLC, the AHLA, On Rite, The Hair Journal for that matter, should get together under one roof and agree that the focus of the industry should Have better relationships. Eat better. In a sense, do anything besides pour a fortune down be changing the public perception that wearing hair isn’t cool. Richard Farrell has been the drain trying to chase a cure that doesn’t exist. Learn to dress. Be creative. And after doing that since the ‘80’s, but he was way before his time and people didn’t hear his mesdoing all of that, if you still feel you need hair, invest in a hair system, which is the only visage. Stop treating a hair system as something people should be embarrassed or ashamed able cosmetic treatment that can restore a natural look and density that matters. of. It’s just another tool to making someone look great, like clothes and shoes and makeup.

Make it hip and stylish and cool. Remove the stigma from wearing hair. Become cultural It’s a radical message and it wasn’t given enough time to be recognized for its cutting edge engineers and then that part of the industry can grow and flourish and people can have fun and truth. But Andy was open minded enough to take a chance on that approach and I with their hair and let Merck and Propecia and Rogaine go the way of the Dodo. Their respected him for that. The last piece of advice I offered Andy was to create a new practice contribution to the industry has caused more problems than solutions. in the hair loss industry; something along the lines of a hair loss nutritional counselor that could come into the studios and do a consultation and follow ups and offer clients indiYou know, basically, I just ran out of things to say about hair loss. I’ve said it all, in differvidualized nutritional and stress reduction advice for $100 per session. Not that it would ent ways and there’s just nothing left for me to say in this industry as it stands today. If it be profitable, necessarily, but it would bring people through the doors, I’m sure of that. ever becomes a lot more progressive, I might have something to contribute to it. If it ever becomes more honest in the sense of taking care of the client over the long term ...

Of course I was very conscious of Steve’s (Steve DiMani) influence at On Rite. I knew his work because I’d read his columns in The National Hair Journal. And there was a certain Well, by that I mean, it goes back to the issue of marketing for first sales versus marketamount of competition. I had hoped to supplant him as Andy’s right hand man and he ing for a long-term relationship with the client. Many hair replacement clients are not knew I had come aboard and we had major disagreements from the start. Steve was brilContinued on Page 13 ›

6 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

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A Good Investment International Banker, Andrea Mandel-Mantello, Explains His Commitment to Cesare Ragazzi Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories (CRL) is a company based in Bologna, Italy that offers a comprehensive range of treatments for people with hair loss problems. Not only is the company a manufacturer of hair additions for men and women, they also own and manage their own network of hair replacement centers that offer consultations with qualified trichologists and dermatological services and support.

Cesare Ragazzi claims to be a different kind of hair loss company and to learn more, The Journal met with Andrea Mandel-Mantello, Chairman of Cesare Regazzi since 2011 and CEO of AdviCorp. PLC, a UK Investment Bank that has made a substantial investment in Cesare Regazzi. In his LinkedIn profile, Andrea states, “We are now aiming to grow our business outside of Italy and are seeking partners to distribute our products internationally.” Cesare Ragazzi began marketing its products in the US in 2012.

Hair & Skin Journal: CRL is a pioneer in what has come to be called “full-service” hair replacement. Let’s discuss some of those services, starting with the fact that you are participating at a medical conference. What is a hair manufacturer doing at the International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery Annual Scientific Conference?

Andrea Mandel-Mantello: We’re here because our clients expect us to be at the center of everything. We believe it is our duty to be on the cutting edge of medical and non-medical research. We provide certain solutions; doctors provide other options. I think these are all complementary. Hair transplantation provides high-quality results, but it can’t serve everybody because it depends on limited raw materials, namely, the hair of the owner.

When there isn’t enough donor hair to give a satisfactory result, this is where we can offer a valid alternative, particularly for women.

HSJ: When consumers Google “hair loss”, they are presented many kinds of solutions, from things their parents knew to exotic new therapies. In Europe, Cesare Ragazzi has formed relationships with dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons. How does this program work?

AMM: In Italy we have developed relationships with top dermatologists who work at various universities, including our home town Bologna, which hosts the oldest medical university in the world. We also cooperate with hair transplant surgeons in Italy, and

HSJ: To return to the racing car analogy. If you are the Lamborghini of hair replacement, can everybody afford you?

AMM: No. Not everybody can afford us, but perhaps we don’t need to use such an exclusive analogy. What is being offered out there today to most clients is a Chevy-priced product, but with lower quality than a Chevy. I have more respect for a Chevy than I do for some of the hair systems that are being sold around the country. I’d like to think Cesare Ragazzi can offer a Lamborghini, but at Audi prices.

Andrea Mandel-Mantello, Chairman Cesare Regazzi

in particular Vincenzo Gambino and Marco Toscani, respectively the current vice president and future president of the ISHRS. With advice from experts like this, we can offer a full range of services and products to combat hair loss from trichology to hair systems to medical solutions. Our goal is to put our clients at the center of everything so together we can make serious decisions about what is best for them.

HSJ: You are based in Italy, a world center of style and fashion. How does that influence what you do?

AMM: We combine unique technology, which we have developed internally, with high skilled craftsmanship. It is no different from other famous manufacturers in our area such as Ferrari, Lamborghini and Ducati.

HSJ: Can we draw a parallel between exotic vehicles that have to prove themselves on the racetrack and your exposure to the medical marketplace?

AMM: Well, those racecars are the result not only of sophisticated technological development but also high skilled craftsmanship. Each one of those vehicles is actually assembled by hand. That’s not very different from what we do in our own factory where we also have very sophisticated technology but also highly skilled craftsmanship. All our hair systems are custom-made for each client by hand.

All our hair systems are custommade for each client by hand.

HSJ: Words like “handcrafted” and “custommade” sound wonderful, but what do they really mean when it comes to manufacturing a hair system?

AMM: It means attention to detail and creative input. We have 39 steps in our manufacturing process. It starts with taking the design parameters using a special 3D mold from our clients. That mold is read by a computer, which transforms it into an electronic file that is sent to a 3D printer, which faithfully reproduces the client’s head. Using that base, we start building our hair system by applying polymer in liquid form. This becomes the base into which we inject hair that has been pre-selected for that person. The completed hairpiece is then quality controlled before being delivered back to the hair clinic.

who are motorcycle and car racers who wear our systems under their helmets and who feel extremely comfortable whether they’re racing, playing sports or doing anything else. The functionality of our system is superior to the products most clients have come to accept.

People simply forget that they have our hair.

It was interesting reading Andre Agassi’s book about his life story and particularly the section where he talks about his fear of his hair system falling off. That is something our clients never have a problem with.

HSJ: We understand that the polymer base has special qualities.

AMM: The base combines a number of unique features. A key one is its antibacterial properties which, when combined with the breathability of the base, means our clients can enjoy wearing their hair system for extended periods of time without the fear of bacteria build up.

HSJ: You intend to expand operations into North America. What new benefits will you be bringing to US customers?

AMM: We can promise them a valid alternative to what they’ve had so far. We can promise them that their clients will enjoy wearing our systems - and using them to the max. You were talking earlier about racing, well have clients

HSJ: Premium products demand personal attention and you have been traveling around the country visiting individual salons to give them an opportunity to examine your designs and discuss them with you face to face. How is that going?

AMM: It’s very encouraging. We’ve done several roadshows already within the United States. We’ve made presentations to both medical and non-medical audiences and our product has been extremely well received.

Now we need to follow up to ensure they are properly trained to use our product because it requires different skills from the ones they’ve been employing so far. Our product is more precise and demands greater attention. It also requires high level cleansing and sterilizing because we want to make sure that there is no residue or build up that will prevent clients wearing our hair for extended periods. People need to get used to that. It’s like maintaining a highly-strung Ferrari. You just can’t use any products. You have to use our products. You can’t give it a superficial service.

HSJ: How can someone who is not on your visitor list learn more about what you do?

AMM: They can always visit our website of course, but we have now a U.S. representative also, John Vincent from San Luis Obispo, California, who has been working with us for almost a year. He has been helping us develop a network of surgical and nonsurgical clinics.

John Vincent: As we go around to salons, we’re finding that the quality of the hair they’re able to offer their customers has deteriorated over the years, even as the price has increased.

Many clients today are on so-called “programs” where they buy multiple hair systems per year to solve the problem of their hair wearing out.

The hair system wears out because it wasn’t what it should have been in the first place.

HSJ: Cesare Ragazzi has a unique pricing structure. How does that work?

JV: The Cesare Ragazzi system is based on the size of the hair replacement area and the length of hair desired. We can provide virgin human hair of any color and any wavelength up to 22 inches long.

HSJ: Do they buy one hair system at a time? Do they buy several? Do they enter a 12-month program? How is it structured?

JV: We’re making a slight paradigm shift.

Our customers purchase two or more hair systems up front to ensure a perfect match, but those quality hair products do not have to be replaced for over two years. When you do the math, the per year cost of our system

versus a typical service plan is equal or lower than what’s being paid now.

AMM: We’re not necessarily cheaper than others, but we’re certainly not significantly more expensive. Take someone on a program costing $6,000 a year, which is not uncommon. Over three years, that client would pay $18,000 for their hair, while four systems of Cesare Ragazzi would cost 10,000 Euros or about US$14,000 and last the same period. Even over two years, that customer could enjoy superior hair at a cost of $14,000 versus $12,000 for a series of inferior replacements that need expensive cut-ins and service visits.

HSJ: We also noticed on Facebook that you have received visits in Bologna from a number of studio owners.

AMM: We’re excited about having people visit us because we’re proud of what we do and we love to share it with people operating in our space. Our staff enjoys demonstrating our product and the intricacies of the manufacturing process. The way we work with our clients in Italy is somewhat different from the way it is done in the United States and people are often surprised by our hospitality.

HSJ: Andrea, you are not a hair man by training. You did not grow up in the cosmetology industry. You came at this from the outside after seeing that there was a human need and a company that held some of the solutions. What brought you into the hair market - and what motivates you today?

AMM: Well, to be very candid, coming from the financial world I looked at this company initially from a financial investment standpoint, but I can list four further reasons for developing an interest in this company.

The first was the quality of the management and the trust that I had in the management team. I had known our chief executive, Stefano Ospitali, for many years. I’d met him at a different company that had nothing to do with cosmetology or hair, and I knew his family reasonably well. I knew that they were reputable people, something that in Italy is extremely important.

The second reason was the quality of the product, which I was able to verify during my due diligence of the company. After looking around the world for all the possible alternatives I realized that there was nobody else producing something of similar quality.

And I should add, that this quality has improved since then, so we have further increased the distance between others and ourselves.

The third element was brand recognition.

This company has been around for a while, and if you ask around in Italy, “Do you know Cesare Ragazzi?” almost always you will get a “Yes.” We actually measured this and about 90 percent of Italians know who and what Cesare Ragazzi is.

The fourth reason is the opportunity to internationalize the company. This is where the real financial opportunity came in. The company had never really branched out of Italy and I felt there was a great opportunity, given the fact that there is no equivalent product in the world, to make the company grow significantly by venturing abroad, starting with the United States.

HSJ: One final question; could you summarize in one sentence what you would like readers of this article to know about Cesare Ragazzi?

AMM: Cesare Ragazzi stands for integrity, quality and service that will allow people to live life to its fullest.

8 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

WHO WE ARE • Established in Bologna in 1968, we are the Italian leaders in hair care and hair replacement with over 1 million clients treated.

• Pioneers in nonsurgical, noninvasive hair replacement system: CNC™, Capelli Naturali a Contatto (Natural Contact Hair).

• Complete line of internally developed, innovative, advanced, targeted and rigourously tested products and treatments • Strong focus on R&D and quality control.

• Vertically integrated: we are manufacturers as well as owners of hair clinics.

• Network of 30 clinics in Italy, Switzerland, and Brazil, plus mobile clinic for VIP customers. Partners in Germany, Spain, and Portugal.

• Exclusive supplier of hair replacement systems to INAIL, the Italian National Health Service Insurance Institute for work related accidents.

CesareRagazzi™Live

The most prestigious Italian brand of incomparable hair systems is bringing live demonstrations to a location near you!

Having just completed its first “roadshow”, covering eight cities in the East Coast and Midwest United States, Cesare Ragazzi Laboratories will come to you, by appointment.

For hair system businesses that want to give their discriminating customers a special showing in their salon, CRLabs will bring its team to demonstrate the special process of making the highest quality product, offer samples of its incomparable hair and provide live models.

The CNC™ is not for everyone. It is only for those who really care about their hair’s appearance and performance. Unlike “disposable” hair, the CRLabs systems have a life expectancy of several years, provided they are properly cared for and rotated among multiple systems. Because each order of systems are all made together, the hair is consistently blended to match.

WHAT WE DO CRHAIR - Hair Divison CNC® Hair Replacment System • The CNC® Hair Enhancement System - unlike any hair system product make today - utilizes advanced biologically compatible membrane base compounds and medical grade attachment techniques, dermatologically tested and complying with international GMP regulation 713/86 • The CNC® (Natural Contact Hair) Hair Enhancement System is the most effective non surgical solution to hair loss • Invisible, thus, totally natural appearing

Look amazing, feel amazing

• Hypoallergenic and antibacterial; thus healthy for the hair and scalp • Breathable and traction resistant eveto in weather extremes, allowing the client to engage in water and high impact sports activities • Allows total freedom in styling and coloring including highlights • Suitable for men and women who are not ideal candidates for hair transplants due to lack of sufficient donor hair requirements • Dermatologically tested & FDA approved (FDA 513G) • In the process for becoming the first Italian Government approved Class 1 medical device for hair loss • Dermatologically tested & FDA approved (FDA 513G) • In the process for becoming the first Italian Government approved Class 1 medical device for hair loss

PARTNERSHIP OPPORTUNITY Cesare Ragazzi Labortories plans to enter the USA market through longterm strategic partnerships with hair care and hair replacement companies. To learn more about Cesare Ragazzi Labortories opportunities call JOHN VINCENT +1 407 257 4776 (Pacific Time) or write to: johnvincent@cesareragazzi.com

Now accpeting reservations for training at the company headquarters in Bologna for owners and staff members.

Contact John Vincent for reservations or more information on our training and products.

Stem Cells to the Rescue More hair? Younger Looking Skin?

It’s all possible, says Dr. Greg Maguire.

The medical world continues to be amazed by the remarkable potential of stem cells to develop into many different cell types in the body. The National Institutes of Health commented that stem cells, “may serve as a sort of internal repair system.”

One researcher, Dr Greg Maguire, CEO of BioRegenerative Sciences, Inc. has explored the healing power of adult stem cells to promote healthy tissue and skin. His team has developed an advanced S2RM® Technology™ that stimulates the natural healing process of tissues by restoring growth factors and other molecules normally found in young, healthy tissue and has been shown to rejuvenate skin.

They also created a hair-maintenance product, called Hair Stemulating Complex to promote healthy looking hair. The Journal met with Dr. Maguire on several occasions to understand his complex research and learn how it might help men and women suffering from hair loss.

Hair Journal (HJ): Dr. Maguire, your background is in neuroscience and ophthalmology, but those years of stem cell research also led you to uncover a number of surprising cosmetic benefits. Ordinarily I would ask you to describe this process step by step, but I’m impatient; so let’s start with the products and then go back to the research.

Greg Maguire (GM): At BioRegenerative, we offer a technology and set of formulations to make you look better by enhancing the natural healing properties of your body. We are enhancing, and in some way mimicking, the natural healing process that occurs within the adult stem cells in your body… including the skin. This is in contrast to the older cosmetic products and procedures that actually damaged your skin, such as the acid and chemical peels of 10, 15 or 20 years ago. Those products often contained harsh chemicals, like glycolic acid, which is actually an irritant designed to damage the skin in order to put it into a wound-healing phase that afterwards might make the skin look better. Unfortunately, those assaults on the skin can be damaging in the long term. My team is looking instead at the healing process itself and learning how the skin maintains and regenerates itself.

HJ: So you are working with the body, not against it.

GM: That’s right. As we age, the properties of the skin and other tissues degrade. A large part of that degradation occurs as a result of exposure to bad chemicals, a bad environment, overexposure to the sun, or a poor lifestyle.

Over time, the healing properties of our stem cells become weaker. If we could protect and restore those cells, they would restart the healing process. This is the focus of our research. Our skin care products combine a particular set of technologies that help reinstate those natural healing properties.

Instead of injecting or applying foreign objects to the skin, we are putting back what was there naturally in the first place before being damaged or aged.

HJ: You made two important statements: the therapy you offer is totally noninvasive, and secondly, we already possess within ourselves the secret to better looking skin if we only knew how to unlock it.

GM: Well said. Think of it as medical “reverse engineering.” We look at the skin and other tissues to understand how the healing process works. Once we’ve analyzed it through reverse engineering and we understand the

9 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

only individual building blocks waiting to play. You need a maestro to orchestrate the group. In the skin and other tissues, stem cells provide the instruction set, just like a conductor controls the movements of the orchestra. Only when all the elements come together does something emerge, in my example it’s that beautiful music.

HJ: Staying within your analogy, there seem to be two processes; Firstly, you need to activate those building blocks, and then you have to regulate the activity that you’ve created. Do your products perform both functions?

GM: All of those things. The building blocks, the catalyst, the instruction set. Most of that activity is driven by various types of stem cells.

HJ: Are all the elements, the stem cells, in the skin tissue already, or do you have to add new components to create the optimal environment?

Dr. Greg Maguire, CEO BioRegenerative Sciences.

mechanisms, we can develop a technology to mimic those same regenerative functions.

HJ: Can you explain what you have learned in layman’s terms?

GM: I’ll give you a simple analogy. Children learn valuable lessons by taking things apart.

Much to my parents’ chagrin, one day I took our television apart to see what was in there and how it was all connected. I was able to reassemble the television and make it work again, so that was my first lesson in reverse engineering. We’re now doing the same kind of research with the body’s healing process.

We look at the skin, how it maintains and heals itself, with a special interest in the functions and interactions of different cell types involved in the process of building new tissue. If you cut your skin, it heals itself. We want to know how.

GM: The elements are basically there - a framework and the building blocks. When we add our technology to the skin it activates the building blocks and helps provide the instructions for proper function. Essentially, we are providing molecules for the structure and the instruction set/ those molecules know how to move into the skin, organize and function. This is a very complex system.

We now know enough to build a technology that really works to make the skin look and feel better, but we are still in the process of learning more about the science behind the process so our technology can become more nuanced and improved over time.

HJ: Some of our readers are doctors and researchers themselves – would you like to speak more in-depth about the science behind the stem cell and the technology BioRegenerative developed?

GM: Absolutely. Our products contain molecules from adult stem cells. The adult stem cells important for beautiful skin are called fibroblasts. The fibroblast cells synthesize a number of building blocks for our skin and other tissues; including collagen and the extracellular matrix (ECM) which is essentially dead skin formed by living cells which provides that scaffold you notice when you pull on the skin. It has none of its own blood and it’s not enucleated. However, it needs to be constantly replenished. That’s one

discovered stem cells also have the property of differentiation – the ability to turn into different types of cells, be it brain cells, glia or neurons. At the time, we believed we could apply the stems cells to the brain and they would turn into brain tissue; instead, to our surprise we proved ourselves wrong. It was not differentiation turning the stem cells into mature tissue, but the stem cells were releasing all kinds of molecules into the brain and then it was these building blocks or instruction sets that were repairing the neurons. This led us to conclude that stem cells are basically a mobile factory for molecules, healing molecules.

This led us to conclude that stem cells are basically a mobile factory for molecules, healing molecules.

This became the primary basis of my research and eventually became the basis of our BioRegenerative Sciences technology. There are no stems cells in our products; instead we are using the molecules released by the stem cells, which may be responsible for up to 80 percent of the therapeutic effect of stem cells, to stimulate the internal healing of the skin.

It’s very powerful. We even found recently that the molecules coming out of the stem cells in the skin have anti-microbial effects.

So not only are you building the skin with these molecules, replenishing and repairing it, but you are also imparting some form of protection for the skin.

HJ: How did you discover the cosmetic benefits?

GM: Well, since brain tissue derives embryologically from the same place the skin does, we thought the same mechanisms we saw in the brain would apply to skin. We began by working with surgeons, dermatologists and burn wards to use the technology for healing wounds such as burned skin or diabetic ulcers. And we found that these molecules did more than heal wounds. Interestingly, we noticed that the wounds treated with these stem cell molecules would drip and migrate to surrounding normal tissue and that tissue appeared to become more supple and healthy looking, especially in the older folks.

HJ: Did you ever try this on yourself?

GM: Yes [laughs]. I try everything that we

HJ: When we talk about the healing process, we are talking at the cellular level, aren’t we?

GM: That’s is a good point. Let me describe how the skin works and how stem cells operate to keep the skin healthy? We all love music; it’s a universal language, so, I’ll give you an analogy. We are sitting here today in San Diego in the shadow of Symphony Hall.

There is an orchestra that plays here, but in order for us to hear this beautiful music a lot of things have to take place. First of all, you need the right environment in which to play the music. Symphony Hall is constructed in a manner that guarantees good acoustics. The building was assembled from a multitude of intricate pieces but there had to be someone to make the building blocks and put them together according to a master plan. This is the function of stem cells in the skin.

The stem cells not only make the building blocks they also provide a set of assembly instructions. To return to my analogy, they design the building and tell the workers how to follow the plans. In the skin, stem cells provide instructions on how those building blocks need to come together.

HJ: Are stem cells the only building blocks you need?

GM: To make a beautiful sounding symphony, you need musicians, but these musicians are

Dr. Maguire presents at Forefront Summit

of the reasons stem cells are so important – they are constantly renewing this extracellular matrix for fresh and pliable new skin. So you have the building blocks produced by one type of stem cell, the fibroblast, but there is also a mesenchymal stem cell to provide the instruction set so molecules and fibroblasts know how to produce or operate the building blocks appropriately.

During the 1990s, when my lab was first studying stem cells in the brain and the eye, we thought the stems cells would simply replicate and multiply when applied to tissue, which indeed it did, many times over. But then we

make and every technology that we use.

HJ: And did it work?

GM: Yes, my skin improved - I have seen a more even skin tone, reduced lines and diminished wrinkles. Of course, we also wanted to see if the technology could stimulate hair growth since hair is an integral part of the skin over much of the body. As a man in his 50’s, I was also interested to see if our technology might have any effects on thinning hair. So we developed a specialist product for hair growth. I tried it on myself too, and I am seeing significant hair growth in the front of my scalp.

Continued on Page 10 ›

10 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

‹ Stem Cells continued from Page 9

HJ: How does your product work differently to say Propecia, which is a hormone-based therapy or medications, such as Minoxidil?

GM: We are also working at the biochemical level. One of the ways that some products work is to stop the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestoterone (DHT). So we have examined the hair follicle to understand how hair and pigment grow at the cellular level.

We have found different types of stem cells in various parts of the follicle, at the base, the bulge and other places. There is a very rich biochemistry involved with the stem cells and molecules required to build a new hair shaft. Everything from building the pigment to injecting that pigment into the hair shaft is

to be technical here, some of the molecules could be 25 kDa (kilodaltons).

HJ: That must be very small… about the size of my bank account.

GM: [Laughs] Even smaller!

HJ: How are the formulations able to deliver these molecules to our skin and hair?

GM: As molecules go, many of the components in our formulations are quite large, so we would expect to experience some difficulty penetrating through barriers, such as the stratum corneum and other barriers in the skin. However, if you are very careful about how you treat the stem cells in the laboratory

we do not have any formal studies focusing on patients undergoing chemo, a number of our trial subjects fell into this category and still saw an improvement in their hair.

H J : Just to be clear, is there any contraindication for somebody in chemotherapy?

GM: There is not. Our product is not a hormone-based treatment; it works to restore a set of molecules locally. There is an ongoing cancer research program to apply these molecules to extracellular matrix, which is often deregulated by the effects of cancer, in the hopes of restoring the extracellular matrix to proper order and function.

damage. Is that the purpose behind the moisturizers?

GM: Exactly. We have a non-acidic exfoliant/ moisturizer to prepare the skin for our active S2RM molecules without causing irritation.

The other moisturizer is designed to heal and restore the natural protective barriers of the skin. It uses a marine derived polysaccharide conjugate, which is super-moisturizing, to exfoliate the stratum corneum without damage-causing acids. When an acid, say glycolic acid, is used to peel off the outer layer of dead skin, it forces the skin to undergo a wound-healing cycle in which the skin cells are refreshed faster. Unfortunately, over time this causes the protective cell barriers to erode, unravel and fray. Our product partially lifts the stratum corneum to allow the active SRM molecules to penetrate; that is all. Then the moisturizer with additives like hyaluronic acids can increase moisture, heal the skin and restore the protective oils and barriers which are washed away by constant washing.

HJ: These products and the technology are cutting-edge. Where are the L’Oreals and Proctor and Gambles? Why aren’t they making products using this core technology?

SRM Molecular Foundry at UCSD

largely stem cell based. Once again, we have reverse engineered the process – we are putting back into the hair follicle the molecules from the stem cells that grow the hair shaft, grow the pigment and allow the pigment to inject into the hair shaft. As for other treatments, well, we can use our technology in combination with other products that are combating the DHT pathway.

HJ: Do you recommend a multi-disciplinary approach to anti-aging therapy?

GM: I would use hair growth medications, laser, or other useful therapies, in combination with the stem cell released molecules that are in our hair product (S2RM®). I should point out if we’re looking at skin products versus hair growth products we are also looking at different types of molecules. The hair growth product contains a different set of molecules compared with the skin rejuvenation products.

There is some overlap, however, it really does require different sets of stem cells and therefore different pools of molecules to repair and maintain our aging cells.

HJ: Describe the skin and hair products currently available to hair loss and anti-aging professionals.

GM: The core technology of BioRegenerative Sciences is based on what we call S2RM or stem cell released molecules. The S2 (two squared) represents the unique molecules from different types of stem cells. When you combine the various types of molecules together, you have a synergistic effect, which assembles the building blocks and the instruction set for proper function. The products differ by identifying the right set of molecules from the right set of stem cells to make a product for hair growth versus a product for skin repair. The formulations allow the technology to penetrate the particular tissue. Since the technology is so new, many physicians may ask the question, How is it these molecules are able to go through layers of the skin?” And it’s a good question because,

to fully produce the molecules and allow those stem cells to re-package those molecules into exosomes, those exosomes are able to penetrate the tissue. Exosomes are nanospheres made to carry molecules through membranes but, unlike similar liposomes, the exosome has peptides and polysaccahrides, that allow the exosome to penetrate through tissue, to target tissue and to actually deliver active contents to other cells. So in the process of gathering our molecules, we naturally developed a protective carrier system to deliver the molecules.

HJ: Tell us more about your hair treatment product.

GM: Our hair therapy includes a special shampoo, a thickening spray and our core technology called Advanced Hair Treatment, which may be directly sprayed onto the affected (thinning) scalp area about once a day. Nice and simple.

HJ: What can users expect if they follow the recommended regimen?

GM: We are currently conducting clinical trials with female subjects – ladies in their 50’s or 60’s with significantly thinning hair – and we’ve seen a greater number of hairs with thicker shafts and improved pigmentation.

Thus far, the data suggests that 95 percent of women feel significantly better about themselves since they see more vibrant hair, which they can style.

Thus far, the data suggests that 95 percent of women feel significantly better about themselves since they see more vibrant hair, which they can style.

HJ: Is this treatment appropriate for women recovering from chemotherapy?

GM: We would love to help those ladies. My mother went through chemotherapy and radiation. It is extremely debilitating. While

HJ: What about somebody suffering from something like traction alopecia?

GM: Oh, we’ve had beautiful results with that type of hair loss through a number of physicians serving primarily the AfricanAmerican market. I am told there is a popular method of hair styling, which pulls or stresses the scalp and follicles, causing a lot of traction stressed alopecia. Thus far, we have had total success with this patient population!

HJ: Is it over-simplistic to say that hair follicles do not die, but rather they grow sluggish and turn off after neglect or trauma and your technology helps to bring them back to life?

GM: Yes, we are successfully restoring hair follicles. We are not to the point of using the simple spray product on men with 30 years of genetic and epigenetic hair loss, but we are working on that technology.

HJ: Let’s switch gears and discuss the skin treatments made possible with your core technology. The anti-aging skin serum is the core product, but there are other support products, for example, moisturizers.

GM: The skin serum is our central skin care product. It contains our core technology – essential molecules packaged as exosomes.

We have also developed a mild exfoliating moisturizer and a protective moisturizer. A typical user would apply the serum once a day and expect to see improved skin tone and color, smoother lines and suppleness within a week or two. You could also use the product twice a day, during your morning and night skin regimen, to see results within days. It is a simple, thin topical application which, won’t make wrinkles disappear, but will encourage your own cells to build collagen and restructure themselves HJ: If you enhance your skin with the serum, you will obviously want to protect it from environmental damage, pollutants or UV

GM: They will be in years to come.

Thankfully, our research has been conducted with the support of a progressive and inspired scientific community, but quite frankly, much of stem cell technology is new and misunderstood. Larger, established companies are not going to approach the technology until they have fully understood it and how it operates in the marketplace. It’s up to the smaller, cutting-edge companies to develop these technologies and bring them to market.

Eventually the big companies will come in, accept the technology, license it and take it to market.

HJ: Are you a leader in this cutting edge skin care technology?

GM: The skin and hair therapy products developed by BioRegenerative Sciences are the best in brand new medical research into stem cell-based technologies. We have worked decades to formulate and continually improve these easy-to-use products. And we will continue to conduct research to improve our technology, our products and our business model so we remain leaders in our field for years to come.

Dr. Greg Maguire is a former professor of neuroscience and ophthalmology at the University of California, San Diego School of Medicine. His graduate training was at the University of California, Berkeley, University of Houston, University of Texas, The Marine Biological Labs, Woods Hole, MA, and Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, NY. He was visiting associate professor of physiology at Keio University School of Medicine in Tokyo, Japan, visiting assistant professor of molecular neurobiology at the University of Washington, and a visiting scientist at MGH, Harvard University. Awarded a prestigious Fulbright-Fogarty Fellowship from the National Institutes of Health, Dr. Maguire managed his NIH funded laboratory at UCSD studying tissue degeneration and regeneration, and the role of stem cell released molecules (SRM) through paracrine and autocrine actions to maintain, repair, and regenerate human tissues. His NIH funded studies of systems biology and reverse engineering at the University of California, Berkeley and stem cell biology at UC San Diego led to the development of adult stem cell-based S2RM technology for the development of therapeutics and medical procedures. Dr. Maguire has over 100 publications and is currently working on his book entitled, “Spontaneous Stem Cell Healing.”

He is founder of the SRM Molecular Foundry at UCSD in San Diego, and is co-founder and CEO of BioRegenerative Sciences, Inc.

11 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

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12 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

RESTORATION ROBOTICS ANNOUNCES ARTAS HAIR STUDIO™ the Ultimate

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for clients who demand, and can afford

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New Proprietary 3-D Software Introduced At ISHRS San Jose, CA. 10/13 – At this year’s International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) conference in San Francisco, Restoration Robotics introduced the ARTAS Hair Studio™, a new product that expands the clinical indication and capability of their revolutionary ARTAS® Robotic System. The ARTAS Hair Studio will enable a physician to design aesthetic recipient site patterns for a patient using a sophisticated 3-D computer generated model of the patient’s head and scalp and create the recipient sites using the ARTAS Robotic System.

As an initial step, the physician takes photographs and creates a 3-D image of the patient’s head and face on a computer. The realistic image can be manipulated and rotated in all directions allowing the physician to view all aspects of the patient’s balding pattern.

With a stylus pen, the physician draws out the boundaries where the recipient site incisions will be made by the ARTAS Robotic System.

During this process, he is able to define the angles, direction, density, distribution and randomness of each recipient site. And since the computer interface is viewable by the patient, as well as the physician, the patient has the opportunity to provide input into their own hair transplantation plan. Once the plan is created, it is programmed onto the ARTAS Robotic System, which follows the plan and creates the recipient sites onto the actual patient.

“This is a major step forward for The ARTAS Robotic System,” said Miguel Canales, M.D., Medical Director and Snr. Vice President, Restoration Robotics. “With the ARTAS Hair

Studio, the patient works with his physician and has the unique opportunity to become much more involved with his own treatment.

This will lead to a highly personalized result for each patient.”

“The ARTAS Hair Studio brings the ARTAS System to a new level of excellence,” said Dr. James Harris, director of the Hair Sciences Center of Colorado in Denver, CO. “This product will change the way doctors and their patients visualize hair transplantation and greatly improve the way it’s implemented.”

The ARTAS Hair Studio was developed inhouse by Restoration Robotics and will be available for purchase in 2014.

Artas Robotic System

About Restoration Robotics - Restoration Robotics, Inc., a privately held medical device company, is dedicated to revolutionizing the field of hair transplantation by developing and commercializing its state-of-the-art image-guided ARTAS® Robotic System.

This interactive, computer assisted system uses image guided technology and precision robotics to enhance the quality of hair follicle harvesting for the benefit of physicians and their patients.

Specially formulated for the latest generation of premium hair products, Ghost Supreme is the ultimate bonding agent for clients who demand, and can afford, the best.

This advanced formulation is guaranteed to last longer, adapt to different climatic conditions and lifestyles and maintain its natural, invisible look week after week.

Ghost Supreme is designed for people in the public eye, celebrities and newscasters under bright lights and anyone else who craves the peace of mind of knowing they are wearing the very best.

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Artas Hair Studio demonstrated at ISHRS

‹ Memoirs of a Web Developer, continued from Page 6

capable of making their hair look good after they leave the studio. Because if you can’t make yourself look good, you’re done. You’ve wasted your money. Then you’re locked into the cruelest of maintenance contracts by having to pay a lot of money more often to look half way decent. Again, that’s if the studio can do that. Otherwise, people find they can’t do the maintenance or didn’t realize how much wearing hair affects their day-to-day life and they walk away. They’ve lost money. The studio lost a client. There are no second sales.

This happens too much. And it’s going to take some really dedicated and talented guy like Rob Hoffman at VISIONS in Ohio who will figure out how you can determine who are good candidates for hair systems and to figure out better ways to train people to make their hair look great without it taking over their lives.

The worse case scenario is that a hair loss client goes from obsessing on their baldness to obsessing on whether people can tell they’re wearing hair. That needs to be solved.

13 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

DOVE’S CAMERA SHY EXPOSES BEAUTY ANXIETY the perfect combination of

Women are missing out on some of life’s most memorable moments because they are anxious about their appearance, according to new global research from Dove.

Safety & Performance at a price your clients can

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Dove is committed to creating a world where beauty is a source of confidence, not anxiety. The company has followed up its hugely successful “Real Beauty Sketches” campaign with another short film, Camera Shy, which makes a similar point: “When did you stop thinking you were beautiful?”

DOVE’S GLOBAL RESEARCH •

Around 77% of women are camera shy, saying that they often feel self-conscious or uncomfortable having their photo taken. Anxiety about their appearance prevents them from capturing precious holiday, wedding or personal memories with photos.

•

On average, women become more self-conscious in front of the camera at the age of 24. The research also shows, 55% of women feel more camera shy ‘now’ than they did ten years ago – perhaps due to the spread of social media image sharing.

•

Furthermore, 63% of women have destroyed photos of themselves while 41% have used technology to enhance how they look in a photo before posting it online.

ENCOURAGING WOMEN TO SMILE

In response to this new research Dove’s advertisers created a 60-second video which lightheartedly juxtaposes adult women hiding from everyday camera ambushes with little girls who feel free to shine when the spotlight is turned on them.

Dove wants to encourage women to recapture the feeling they had when they were young and fearless in front of the camera, to embrace their own beauty without reservation and to pass those lessons on to a girl in their life.

Fernando Machado, Global Brand Vice President, Dove Skin, says: “Women, who are their own worst beauty critic, have anxiety that stops them from feeling confident in front of the camera and causes them to miss out on capturing important moments in their lives. We want that to change.”

CREATING A NEW MINDSET

Dove wants to inspire women to reconsider their beauty and recognize that they are more beautiful than they think. Encouraging women and the next generation to develop a positive relationship with beauty can help raise their self-esteem and enable them to realize their full potential.

Dove Global Self-Esteem Ambassador Jess Weiner offers these tips:

•

Ban negative, beauty-bashing comments. Negative attitudes and words – such as “I look so fat” or “I’m having a bad hair day” – make everyone feel anxious about their looks.

•

Recognize that nobody is perfect. Those ‘perfect’ images of celebrities have been styled and retouched by a team of professionals from start to finish. There is no such thing as perfect beauty.

•

Focus on being a part of making and capturing memories. Instead of stressing about how you look in a photo, think about how you will feel looking back years from now, remembering the joy you had in the moment with family, friends by yourself. When you focus on the type of memory being made, you will notice that your face and body relax, resulting in a more natural, genuine smile of true enjoyment.

Ghost Classic provides the perfect combination of performance and safety at the price your clients can afford!

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Ghost Mist is argueably the most popular finishing spray on the market, ensuring UV Protection, protection from heat styling tools etc. Ghost Mist also seals the hair with a silicone based formulation that leaves your hair looking brand new everytime you use. This product is so highly in demand, we are now making it available in Gallon sizes for wholesale studio use. Contact us today to find out more.

What sets it apart?

Subtle skin toned base for total invisibility.

Matt finish, wet or dry.

Antibacterial agents full health and hygiene.

Gentle, yet strong, formulation that's easier to apply.

And, of course, PHL's legendary commitment to product safety.

Ghost Bond Classic – When Only the Best Is Good Enough!

Proudly Developed And Sold by Professional Hair Labs.

World leaders in cosmetic bonding.

CALL T LL-FREE

800.778.4247 info@prohairlabs.com

USA OFFICE: 4775 Allen Road Zephyrhills FL 33541 : 1.813.788.7468 : +49 (0)30 2089 6831 : +44 (0)20 3286 0094 : +353.(0)1.442.8808

14 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Postpartum Hair Loss

by Dr. David H. Kingsley, PhD

some relaxation time-outs, and to choose good nutritional diets (such as small frequent meals and protein with each meal). Additionally, if the new mother is iron deficient, she may need to take an iron supplement for a few months. (Note: any supplementation should be okayed by the woman’s physician if she is nursing. Additionally, she shouldn’t use minoxidil if nursing.)

Up to 75% of women suffer from postpartum hair loss and are likely to see more hair falling out, their ponytails diminish, or both.

Postpartum hair loss (PPHL) is a type of telogen effluvium, which is caused by many hairs entering their resting (telogen) phase en masse and so increasing the shedding (exogen) stage of the hair cycle. This usually occurs 6 to 16 weeks (average 3 months) after giving birth. Sometimes, if a woman is nursing, PPHL may be deferred for a few months. PPHL may continue up to 12 months after giving birth, although some studies have even suggested up to 24 months.

Dr. David Kingsley, President World Trichology Society.

There are many potential reasons why PPHL occurs, and a woman’s hair could be affected by one or more of these at the same time. As a certified trichologist, my job is to find and treat each of the possible causes and help the new mother regrow her hair as quickly as possible.

The Most Common Causes of PPHL Increase in female hormone levels during pregnancy, which drop after birth - During pregnancy, the estrogen levels (which help in fetal development and placental health) increase about 100 fold, and progesterone (which also helps in the growth of the baby and keeps the uterus healthy) rises by a factor of about ten. These hormones affect the scalp hair in the opposite way to testosterone. Instead of shortening the growth cycle of the hair (as does testosterone and dihydrotestosterone–DHT), they actually increase the length of the anagen phase. This maintains more hairs in both number and length. Hence a woman’s hair often looks better during her pregnancy. In addition, progesterone is an antagonist to testosterone, as it competes with the testosterone for the enzyme, 5-alpha reductase. The progesterone is itself converted into dihydroprogesterone (DHP) by that enzyme. The DHP, in turn, competes with DHT for the receptors in the skin. Shortly after giving birth, these female hormone levels drop, causing the hair that should have fallen out during the previous nine months, plus the normal hair fall, to come out all at once.

The Good News The good news is that after about 3 to 12 months, the woman’s hair will regrow normally and should eventually return to the same pre-pregnancy thickness.

Occasionally after treatment and regrowth, the new mother will claim that her hair isn’t as thick as it was before she got pregnant, as she only remembers what her hair looked like when she gave birth, not before she became pregnant. With this in mind, I suggest that any woman who has recently found out she is pregnant take a photo of her hair. Then compare that picture to the way her hair looks after her hair has regrown.

Dr. David H. Kingsley, PhD, is President of the World Trichology Society, the only N. American-based trichological society.

Iron deficiency - During pregnancy, many women become anemic or iron deficient as the developing fetus needs iron during its development and the pregnant mother is producing more red blood cells. Most women take a prenatal supplement, but stop when they give birth.

This can lead to a postpartum iron deficiency, which may cause an increase in hair loss. It is important for a new mother to have her iron, complete blood count (CBC), and ferritin checked within a few weeks of having her baby.

Epidural - An epidural is a ‘local’ anesthetic that eases the pain in the lower part of the body during childbirth, yet allows the mother to stay fully awake. As with any anesthesia, there is a risk that the woman’s hair cycle could temporarily be disturbed. However, there is disagreement whether it is the epidural itself, the stress of labor, or a combination of the two, may cause a hair loss episode.

C-section - A cesarean delivery (C-section) is a surgical method to deliver a baby and is often used when a complication during the pregnancy arises. During this procedure, the mother is given ‘regional’ anesthesia to numb the surgical area and, as with any type of anesthesia, this may temporarily cause some hair cycle changes, leading to hair loss a few months later. In addition, the increased loss of blood during the surgery may lead to a lower iron level that, in turn, could cause some hair loss.

Stress - Mothers with a newborn baby often get very little sleep and this, combined with the stress of looking after her baby, can negatively affect her hair cycle. Stress hormones and neuropeptides (stress proteins) can cause the anagen phase of the hair cycle to shorten temporarily, leading to more hair loss a few months later.

Weight Loss - Women usually put on a lot of weight during pregnancy and then try to lose it as soon as possible after giving birth.

Sometimes the new mother will follow a ‘crash diet’ to help speed up her weight loss. Losing more than 7 kilos (15 pounds) in a 4-week period can cause metabolic changes leading to temporary hair loss.

Treatments and Advice for PPHL A lot of PPHL triggers are a natural part of pregnancy/post-pregnancy and time will usually normalize their effect on a woman’s hair cycle. However, a woman suffering from PPHL may gain a faster improvement with topical organic stimulants (such as nicotinic acid–vitamin B3 and menthol, which I use in my trichological practice), combined with low light laser therapy. Also, I advise my patients to begin exercising as soon as possible, to take

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The Real Thing

Allen Chong explains why it’s keratin or bust!

The Journal first met Allen Chong approximately 10 years ago when he started distributing the HairMax Lasercomb. At that time, Mr. Chong was on the cutting edge of technology and actively researching new products that

color may not be as natural so people can tell that you put something on your hair - which defeats the purpose of applying fibers in the first place. Focus hair fibers are 100% pure organic processed keratin, which is the same

15 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

AC - It is manufactured in the US by a FDA approved, GMP certified facility.

HJ - How big is the market for hair fibers in the US?

AC - Fibers should be light and fine and AC - It is $1 billion dollar industry, from mom should stick to the hair shafts seamlessly. The color must not run in the rain, dislodge in the wind and it will deflect color under the sun naturally.

HJ - What research went into the development of Focus?

and pop shops to fortune 500 companies like Johnson & Johnson, the maker of Rogaine.

The potential is huge since less than 3% of men and women use some kind of cosmetic way to cover up their thinning hair areas.

HJ - Is a hair loss fiber simply a first step

towards finding a hair loss solution, or is it a

AC - We studied all the leading major brands solution in and of itself? of fibers and listened to our clients as they talked about their likes or dislikes with the products they are using now. We then began a worldwide search to secure the finest quality keratin available to create our own fibers. We worked closely with a GMP certified facility in USA for over 2 years to develop the Focus brand.

HJ - What is your personal history with the hair loss market?

AC - It’s an interesting story. We used to

Allen Chung, CEO Unico Enterprises

could help his clientele. So we were intrigued early in 2013 when he requested a confidential meeting to discuss a new hair fiber that was completing clinical trials. Nine months later, we welcomed a new advertiser to our pages and readers began asking about the company behind the product. The new hair fiber is called Focus and is positioned at the premium end of the fiber market. It features olive green packaging that is designed to appeal to women. To learn more about the brand, the company and the man who calls the shots, The Journal met with Allen Chong in his office in Arcadia, CA.

material as your own hair. It covers thinning hair areas naturally and provides an excellent color match.

HJ – Do you have to pay a premium price for an all-natural product?

AC - I am glad you asked that question because the answer in no, you do not. That’s because you don’t have to use a lot to do the job. Focus is also more economical than most leading brand fibers (pricing information withheld by editor).

Hair Journal (HJ) - There were already several HJ – Summarize the qualities customers should fibers on the market when you decided to launch Focus. Why did you decide the market needed another product?

Allen Chong (AC) - There are many fibers

on the market, but very few premium quality products. Most fibers are made from synthetic ingredients, such as nylon, cotton, a mixture of keratin and wool or plant based materials.

look for in a good hair fiber?

AC - Ingredients. Ingredients. Ingredients. A good fiber should not contain any non-organic material, such as nylon, wool or cotton. It should be 100% pure keratin.

HJ - How would you categorize the hair fibers currently on the market?

drop-ship hair loss products for a Canadian company back in 1998. We would purchase the inventory then ship it as their orders came in. But after 9/11, the Canadian owner found the customs and security requirements to burdensome and decided to discontinue cross border shipping. So we found ourselves with over $40,000.00 worth of inventory in our office and we had to find a way to take these products to market. We started with just 5 products, and over time we built it up to over 300 brands that we sell today.

AC - Hair loss fibers are not the final solution,

in my opinion. Fibers do not help grow hair.

But it is a very practical way to improve one’s self image and confidence without taking any pills or going under the knife. Hair transplants are not only expensive but patients may be dissatisfied with the first surgery and have to fork out more money to complete the process.

Fibers on the other hand are economical and easy to use with a negligible possibility of side effects.

HJ - Is a hair fiber typically used on its own

or in conjunction with another styling aid or product?

HJ - Are Focus fibers formulated for both men and women?

AC - Yes, One formulation works equally well for men and women.

HJ - Winter is upon us. That means rain and

heavy winds. How does Focus stand up to these weather conditions?

Allen Chung talks about Focus hair fibers

AC - Most people use the fibers on their own. However, there are some FDA approved

AC - Because of its organically processed formulas such as Rogaine foam or Propecia Keratin ingredient, it will stick to hair shafts even under harsh weather condition. It can withstand rain, wind and when the seasons change, the color will not fade under the sun.

that have been shown to be effective. The difference is hair fibers change the way you look right away. Most people lose about 100 to 150 strands of hair a day. People who suffer

Fibers on the other hand are economical and easy to use with a negligible possibility of side effects.

These synthetic ingredients can cause unwanted side effects. Silica, a common ingredient used in many hair fibers, is a chemical by-product that can cause scalp irritation. Synthetic ingredient based fibers do not cover thinning areas well as they do not stick to hair shafts as well as natural products that have an affinity with your own hair. You typically have to use more fibers to cover a small area. Also the

AC - Premium quality, good quality and

OK quality. It just depends on one’s personal preference. Cheap fibers are just that. You get what you pay for.

HJ - How can you demonstrate the hair loss lose more than 200 hair strands a performance of Focus?

AC - I don’t have the data with me, but we will provide independent research lab results

day and their hair follicles can not produce sufficient hair to compensate the lost hair.

That’s where we come in.

HJ – You have stressed the importance of in your next issue. natural ingredients, what other qualities should you expect from a hi-end fiber?

HJ - Is Focus produced here in the United States, or overseas?

“Don’t Wig Out” Answers to questions you were afraid to ask Los Angeles, 02/14 - Finally there is a place for women to speak openly without judgment about all the things they have been too afraid to ask. “Don’t Wig Out” is an upbeat, direct and personal show with Amy Gibson and Georgia Van Cuylenburg, two outspoken Alopecia Activists who have created a powerful, truthful, and safe forum for women to turn when living with female hair loss, health issues, men, and all the other things that can make ladies a little nuts! The live call-in/video-streaming show airs on UBN.Radio, Channel 2 on Mondays at 8PM PST. Call in number is 323-284-7826.

Georgia Van Cuylenburg

Amy Gibson

16 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Ask the HairCoach

Q&A for Hairloss Professionals by Alan J. Bauman, M.D. Follow @DrAlanBauman

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Before

Dr. Alan Bauman may be the best known hair transplant doctor in North America. He has contributed to Men’s Health Magazine, Appeared on Oprah, performed live surgery on the web, and is a frequent guest on local and national television. He also publishes a regular newsletter in addition to socializing on Facebook and Twitter. Recently, he established a coaching program to help owners of hair studios; cosmetologists and sales consultants understand the medical and genetic contributors to hair loss and the expanding selection of products and therapies now available to correct it. In a recent meeting with Dr. Bauman, The Journal invited him to share this information with its readers and we agreed to create a special column, “Ask the Coach.” So if you have any questions or comments, we invite you to send them to “The Coach” by emailing info@nationalhairjournal.com.

As a beauty professional, have you ever been asked how to grow hair thicker or faster?

Do your clients ever wonder how much hair shedding is considered “normal?” What about the causes of hair breakage? Is there a connection between menopause and hair thinning? How about a relationship between diet and hair loss?

In this column I will share popular hair health-related questions along with proven answers you can use “behind the chair” to immediately help guide your clients in the right direction.

After

Alan J. Bauman, M.D., Medical Director Bauman Medical Group, guests on TV

How much shedding is “normal?” The shedding of 100 to 200 strands per

Before

After

Do The Water Test And See For Yourself

3

30

Seconds

Seconds

day, according to several prominent textbooks, is considered normal. This shedding occurs as healthy hair follicles cycle on and off naturally over time repeatedly through the familiar stages of Anagen, Catagen, Telogen and back to Anagen again. Every single day, some follicles are stopping hair production while others are beginning to produce a new hair fiber. Hair fibers are released or pushed out from the scalp as follicles switch into the ‘resting’ phase or enter into ‘growing’ phase. In a small percentage of people, the possibility of a shedding situation may also occur after starting a strong hair growth treatment regimen like minoxidil and laser therapy. This temporary shedding phase may occur as resting follicles ‘wake up’ and begin to produce a new hair shaft. So, when is shedding abnormal? We know that excessive shedding can be triggered by poor nutrition, stress, illness, medications, hormonal imbalance, general anesthesia, hereditary hair loss and more. Excessive shedding that is leading to decreased hair volume, diminished scalp coverage or a receding of the hairline/temple areas should be referred to a physician for evaluation and treatment.

What causes breakage and fly-a-ways? The appearance of short “fly-

a-way” hairs can be a sign of progressive miniaturization of hair follicles—the hallmark of hereditary hair loss, the physical breakage of hair fibers, or a combination of both. When hair fibers are weak and/or over-styled with heat and chemicals, subjected to excessive tension (e.g., hair extensions), or repeated wet-combing, breakage can occur. Determining whether the situation is improving or worsening can sometime be a challenge.

Is my hair breakage improving or worsening? Tracking hair breakage

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and hair growth is now a simple, quick and easy chair-side process using HairCheck®.

HairCheck® device is a scientific measuring tool that can provide in just a few minutes an assessment of the amount of hair an area of scalp is producing, as well as the percentage of hair breakage present. Over time, this is powerful information that can help confirm if breakage is improving or getting worse over time and whether the quantity and quality of hair is changing or stable. The results of recommended anti-breakage regimens or hair growth treatments can be easily confirmed and tracked in 90-day intervals.

Ask me YOUR specific hair-related questions! Do you have

unanswered questions about hair loss or hair damage? What about different treatments that people are talking about and trying these days? There are many myths, misconceptions around and traps that people are falling into--especially with all the misinformation available online. Send me your questions @DrAlanBauman on Twitter or by emailing DoctorB@BaumanMedical.com. If your questions is selected and featured in this column, I’ll mention your name in the article and also send you a FREE thank-you gift.

About Alan J. Bauman, M.D. Dr. Alan J. Bauman is a full-time ABHRS-certified

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Hair Restoration Surgeon based in Boca Raton, Florida. As the Founder and Medical Director of Bauman Medical Group, he has treated nearly 15,000 patients since 1997 and has helped to pioneer many advances in the treatment of hair loss such as minimally-invasive NeoGraft FUE hair transplants, eyelash transplantation, low level laser therapy as well as compounded minoxidil and finasteride formulations. Dr. Bauman is a frequently invited guest lecturer at major international medical conferences and is a consultant to Fortune 500 companies in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors. Dr. Bauman enjoys spending his free time with his wife and two sons enjoying the outdoor South Florida lifestyle and volunteering as a board member for Musical Cares—an award-winning national non-profit organization that donates musical instruments to underprivileged children. Follow Dr. Bauman on Twitter @DrAlanBauman

About HairCoach™ Certification Beyond basic trichology, HairCoach™ Certification includes a proprietary set of results-oriented hair loss management and treatment protocols based on Dr. Bauman’s experience from fifteen years of clinical practice. The scientific basis and use of state-of-the art tools, technology and treatment regimens are taught in an online and hands-on course designed to enhance compliance and outcomes. For more information on industryspecific HairCoach™ Certification for beauty professionals and medical professionals, visit http:// www.JoinTeamBauman.com. For general information about hair loss facts and treatments visit http://www.BaumanMedical.com. To learn more about Bauman Medical’s Consulting Division visit http://www.BaumanMedicalConsulting.com.

17  The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

18 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Seen GO BETTE! Bette Graff from Graff Technology in Riverside, CA, recently hosted a Free Women’s Hair Loss Seminar at the Riverside Chamber of Commerce. Guests learned about the different causes of hair loss and had an opportunity to share their experiences. Bette commented, “Women need to know there are solutions out there that can restore and give back that familiar appearance every woman is longing to see.” Bette Graff encourages salon managers everywhere to take advantage of local organizations to spread the word that there is no need to suffer from thinning hair.

There are good solutions… and they’re getting better all the time.

and

Heard

CAPILIA - 7TH ANNUAL GROUP CONFERENCE The 7th Capilia Group Conference took place in the beautiful surroundings of Chateau Vaudreuil in Montreal.

of the Capilia group back in 2005. He and his wife run a successful hair loss center in North York, Ontario, which John took over from his dad, Arthur Ranney.

Sam Donofrio, president of Capilia Canada & USA, was proud to introduce Lance Centofanti as the new Executive Director, Corporate Development for the US market.

He joins Leigh Gardner as the core team for Capilia’s entry in the US.

Also participating at the conference, were Howard & Darryl Margolin from Professional

Hair Labs, Jérôme Nicot & Damien Brehault from NJ Creations Wigs from Paris and Guillaume Rosa from Laboratoire Nature, Quebec.

Capilia™ USA is also welcomed Dino’s Hair Replacement Center, Fort Lauderdale as a new member. Dennis and Tina Howell, along with their daughter Gia, have been in the hair replacement business for over 35 years.

This brings the number of US centers to five.

Other US members attending the conference included: Dan & Andrea Green from West Palm Beach, Dan & Julie Brummel from Madison Wisconsin, and Anderia Kowalski from Orlando.

Capilia also announced that John and Kelly Ranney of Freedom Hair Systems became the 28th Capilia Center in Canada. John Ranney was one of the founding members L to R: Lance Centofanti, Sam and Suzanne Donofrio, Leigh Gardner

Bette Graff

ISSE Long Beach 2014

The International Salon and Spa Expo Long Beach Phoenix, AZ. 01/14 Education - ISSE Long Beach featured more than 150

- The 2014 International Salon and Spa Expo Long Beach (ISSE Long Beach) continues to be the West Coast’s largest and most influential total beauty event. An energetic crowd of nearly 40,000 beauty professionals from around the world attended the show.

complimentary education sessions. Classes covering all aspects of hair care and styling, including hair additions and extensions.

Esthetics and wellness expanding - 2014 saw

the continued expansion of the popular EstheticsAmerica & Wellness Pavilion, which provides a dedicated environment for skin care, cosmetics, massage and wellness – all rapidly expanding segments of the beauty industry.

Support in time of need - PBA introduced the ‘PBA Beauty Bar’ as part of the 2014 show. Attendees could

Thinning hair solutions on display - Known as the launch pad for new beauty products select five product samples from participating exhibitors in and services, ISSE Long Beach 2014 featured a sold-out expo floor, welcoming more than 350 leading beauty brands.

Ranging from international beauty leaders to indie trendsetters, exhibiting brands included industry giants such as Aveda, Clairol, Moroccanoil, Vidal Sassoon, Wella and Zotos International; but it was also remarkable for the number of hair addition/extension and hair-addition and hair thickening products on display, including: Aderans Hair Goods,

exchange for a donation to the PBA Disaster Relief Fund.

In its debut year, this initiative raised approximately $4,000 for the PBA Disaster Relief Fund, which provides financial support to help professionals meet immediate financial needs, such as purchasing food and clothing and paying bills following a natural disaster.

Hair Art, Cinderella Hair, DreamCatchers, Envy Hair Collection, SOCAP USA, New Barber Brawl Competitions - In addition to its traditional Hairstyling Competitions, SureThik and Xfusion.

PBA and ISSE were proud to host Major League Barber’s Hot Hands Barber Brawl competitions.

The competitions kicked off with the Barber Brawl: categories, included the Original Tag Team - Design and Color; Conservative - Basic Haircut; Fastest Barber in the World - Bald Fade; and, Shear Crazy - No Machines, Just Shears. Winners received an array of tools and products to enhance their barbering careers.

The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) is a leading producer of industry trade events and competitions. Next year’s International Salon & Spa Expo will take place January 24-26, 2015 at the Long Beach Convention Center.

19 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Seen

and

Heard

NeurotriS at Emmy Awards Gift Event Celebrities Receive PICO Toners - The NeurotriS team recently participated in a special Celebrity Connected gift room event in honor of the 65th Emmy Awards in Los Angeles.

Each year, V.I.P. TV, movie, sports and entertainment celebrities attend the annual Hollywood Emmy Awards and are invited to attend many special events and private parties where they are presented with prestigious and innovative gifts. Neurotris was there to introduce its PICO Toner, a new body sculpting and skin rejuvenation device.

Joyner, Michael Hamey from ‘Orange is the New Black’, Deanna Lund of ‘Land of Giants’ and entertainer Zena Foster.

Product demonstrations - Many guests also received personal therapy sessions. They were intrigued to learn that, “Using NeurotriS microcurrent devices and technology is like taking your face to the gym!” and that “The PICO Toner will help jump start the cells in your face and body into full metabolic activity so you can safely give yourself a facelift without Botox, microdermabrasion, or cosmetic surgery.”

Celebrity Feedback: • Joanna BaFonseca of ‘Celebrity Connected’: “I am normally very skeptical, because many things do not work. I am now a believer in NeurotriS. I didn’t think I had that much work needed, but I was in shock about how much help I do need it. Do yourself a favor. NeurotriS is the way to go!”

• Drake Hogestryn of ‘Days Of Our Lives’: “I am

excited about this since I have a big birthday coming up.

It’s a big one! So far I am all-natural, so this will be really good for me. I need it for under my chin too. I know that I can use this on my whole body to make everything tighter.

Maybe I need two of these!”

Olympic Gold Medalist Al Joyner, takes a test drive

• Carol Connors, 5-time singer-songwriter and Emmy Award Winner: “I like my face. I am used to it. The NeurotriS PICO Toner looks wonderful!”

Neurotris Booth

Stars taking home a NeurotriS PICO Toner included: Emmy Award winner Tony Hale of ‘Veep’, Mary Murphy from ‘So You Think You Can Dance’, Sarah Brown; three-time Emmy Award winner from ‘The Bold & The Beautiful’, Mekhi Phifer of ‘E.R.’, Producer Penny Marshall who is also of ‘Laverne & Shirley’, Printz of ‘The Black Eyed Peas’, A.J. Mclean of ‘The Back Street Boys’, Lou Diamond Phillips of ‘La Bamba’, Vanessa Marcil of ‘Las Vegas’, Keith Powell from ‘30 Rock’, singer-songwriter and five-time Emmy Award Winner Carol Conners, famed Chicago Bears quarterback Jim McMahon, David Hernandez of ‘American Idol’, Neil Flynn of ‘The Middle’ and ‘Scrubs’, Irish singer, musician and actress Samantha Mumba, Dennis Haskins from ‘Saved By The Bell’, Jerry ‘The Beaver’ Mathers from ‘Leave It To Beaver’, Joyce Guiard of ‘The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills’, Leslie David Baker of ‘The Office’, Kate Linder of ‘The Young & The Restless’, Stephen Ranazzisi of ‘The League’, Blake Garret Rosenthal from ‘The Mom’, Xo Lo Mariduena of ‘Parenthood’, Derek Deese of the NFL San Francisco 49ers and Tampa Bay Buccaneers football teams, Jason and Jarron Collins of the NBA, Ron Cey of the Los Angeles Dodgers, James Madio of ‘The Jersey Boys’ and ‘Band of Brothers’, Cory Feldman of ‘Goonies’, Ken Davitian of ‘Borat’, Kyle Schmid of ‘Copper’, Tony Denison of ‘The Closer’, Drake Hogestyn of ‘Days Of Our Lives’, Sarah Joy Brown of ‘Days Of Our Lives’, Joy Harrington of ‘Hot In Cleveland’, TV actress and Ms. America United Nations 2013; Carla Gonzales, Beauty Pageant Queen Southern California Joanna Mills, Richard Karn ‘Al Borland’ of ‘Home Improvement’, Olympic Gold Medalist Al

• Vanessa Marcil of ‘Las Vegas’: “I am

about to get a PICO Toner machine that will make me smart, funny and more beautiful. It’s very cool. I like that the PICO Toner is small so I can travel with it.”

• Sarah Joy Brown of ‘Days Of Our Lives’: “The longevity of your career depends on how well you treat your skin. NeurotriS is like having a facelift in a box! I am very excited.

I can’t wait to try it out.”

• Dennis Haskins of ‘Saved By The Bell’: In the world of high definition television, it is very important to have good looking skin. You need to look young. It is never too late!”

• Jerry Mathers of ‘Leave It To Beaver’: “It is very important to take care of your skin. For the first 12 years of my life, I had a lot of pancake Miss America 2013 and grease makeup applied to my face. As a result, I also had a lot of acne challenges. With a skin rejuvenation product like this, I probably wouldn’t have had those skincare challenges.”

• Deanna Lund from ‘Land Of The Giants’: “I will love it!”

• James Madio of ‘The Jersey Boys’: “Oh Boy! I can really use this!”

Penny Marshall (center) with Neurotris team

Mary Murphy, ‘So You Think You Can Dance’

5 time Academy award winner, Carol Conners

Tony Picciano, NeurotriS CEO, concluded, “We enjoyed the positive feedback from the celebrities. While our core business is to support aestheticians, dermatologists and medical professionals, the PICO Toner allows clients to take care of their skin at home between appointments.” Asked about the microcurrent technology, Picciano explained, “Microcurrent refers to the frequency signatures that mimic the normal body processes of electrical energy. If we can stimulate the body’s natural processes, then we will be able to communicate at a cellular level to create cellular changes for our clients. When we apply specific bio-electric signatures that resonate with our client’s somatic cells, we cause a perfect acoustic tune that prevents premature cellular degradation while in turn promoting cellular proliferation.” Due to its effectiveness, microcurrent is fast becoming one of the most sought after anti-aging solutions.

Jerry Mathers ‘The Beaver’

Kate Linder ‘The Young and the Restless’

20 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Seen

and

Heard

2013 Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award West Palm Beach, FL. 10/13 — The Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award was presented to William “Willie” Campagnolo and Ben Carey, who passed away in 2009 and received the award posthumously. The awards ceremony took place during NIU LIVE 2013 at the Marriott Hotel in West Palm Beach last October.

The two recipients Bergen Carey and Michele Vocaturo, daughters of both Hair Icons accepted the awards on behalf of their fathers. Bergen shared, “Ben would

have been very proud and thankful for this recognition. He had tremendous respect for and was inspired greatly by his peers. As his family, it brings us great joy and satisfaction that his memory been honored in this way.”

Tony Sciara, President of New Image Labs, added, “We find this award very inspirational.

It recognizes leaders and points our industry into the future by inspiring younger generations to do even greater things.”

and business acumen of outstanding hair loss professionals and to recognize leaders in the global hair loss industry. For more information visit www.thehairicons.com.

The Randy Martin Lifetime Achievement Award was inspired by the late Randy Martin and instituted in 2009 to celebrate the craftsmanship

On Rite Wows ‘Em at Business Symposium In typical Andrew Wright style, the On Rite Symposium held at the MGM Grand, Las Vegas was an industry “ WOW.” It combined

information-packed marketing presentations from two of the industry’s leading marketers, Rich Brook, president of Flyte New Media, and Barbara Goldstein, Sr. Partner Media Power Advertising— along with large doses of idea-sharing and networking, all under the glitter of a Las Vegas backdrop.

As part of the interactive discussion among retailers present, several people shared success stories. Flora Fuentes, a Managing Director from NYC, talked about the changes she made when she began to recognize that her younger male clients were more educated about the product, service and competition. They expect straight-talk and authenticity. Changing her conversation has resulted in increased men’s hair replacement client base.

Key presenter Rich Brooks of FLYTE New Media presented a Digital Marketing Action Plan that customizes Internet marketing efforts generate new leads.

Left to right, Nazy Curtis, Martha Dibello, Marti Farber & Flora Fuentes

Rich Brooks presented a full-day digital marketing showcase featuring a DMAP (Digital Marketing Action Plan) developed for the Baltimore market. With a focus on website optimization, blogging and social media, the plan was presented as a template that could be customized for any market. The cost is minimal as long as studio owners are willing to invest their time each day. Among the “pearls” that Rich presented were the four elements to holistic web marketing: 1) Attraction (driving qualified leads to your website); 2) Retention (staying in touch with visitors who’ve left your site); 3) Conversion (getting visitors to make a buying decision); and 4) Measurement (how to quantify your success).

Coming on the heels of Rich’s presentation was Barbara Goldstein who engaged the audience with an interactive discussion on how media budgets impact return on investment. She then turned her focus to Internet marketing and the critical role it plays in today’s consumer world. One of the big takeaways from her presentation was that Google-only ad programs only reach 2/3 of the search population because the other one-third uses Yahoo and Bing as their primary search engines. By expanding the program to include 98% of search coverage, it will dramatically increase pay-per-click conversions. “There are lots of fish in the Yahoo and Bing ponds that aren’t being targeted by Google Adwords.“ Barbara also demonstrated how to maximize SEM results through the use of banner display ads and “retargeting”, a formula designed to follow visitors after they’ve been to your website or seen your banner ads.

Class room overview

Pamela Corridor from Bingham Farms, a Detroit suburb, was faced with an antiquated pricing structure when she took the management reins from her parents, Ray and Jo Ann Corridor.

Pam shared how she increased prices and added team training and ‘Recover With Confidence,’ to reposition her studio into a more profitable business.

Ed Gawerecki, manager in St. Louis, shared his story on retention and conversion of laser hair therapy clients. Ed provided data on how they took a very “financially frustrating” program and turned it into a “financially rewarding” venue.

In addition, Rhonda McCarthy talked about one of On Rite’s most successful programs, The Women’s Hair Loss Seminars with Kayla Martell. Kayla lost her hair at age 11, yet went on to become Miss Delaware and a Miss America finalist. The inspiration she brings to audiences during her seminars has translated into dramatic sales results for sponsoring studios. Barbara Goldstein added to the conversation by sharing recent seminar success stories in NYC, Milwaukee and Dayton, including her negotiation of on-air TV interviews on local programs.

In a video testimony, Bob Rider reported selling 78% of attendees from a Monday night seminar in Dayton. Bravo Bob! Most Women’s Hair Loss Seminar dates are already being booked for the first half of 2014.

On Rite Staff, left to right, David Rubin, Andy Wright, Steve Levy, Karla Hurtado, Rhonda McCarthy, Doug Spike, Marti Farber, Antonio Scavazzon.

Conversation and camaraderie blanketed the symposium all three days culminating in a fabulous night of food and spirits at Smith and Wollensky. And then the evening went on until the wee hours but as they say, what happens in Vegas. . !

21 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

The Future of Green How Your Studio Can Join the Trend!

What Does It Mean to Be Green? - Salons, clinics or spas that consider themselves to be “green” share the basic goal of reducing their impact on the environment. Businesses might start small by recycling and reducing their waste, using natural and organic professional products in treatments, and limiting exposure to toxins from cleaning, styling or cosmetic products.

Ambitious businesses may consider making greater strides to reduce their carbon footprint by using “green” building materials, solar lighting, low-flow water systems, energy efficient appliances or heating/ air conditions systems. Many salons and spas may also choose to offer healing, natural, or wellness-oriented services which reflect their eco-friendliness. So what will the future of green spas be and what are some ways your business can join in the eco-friendly trend?

Go Waste-Free - What if your services or treatments were leaving a waxy footprint in landfills? Well, there are serious professionals developing attractive alternatives for you. Mariah Culbertson, Product Development Manager for Universal Companies, recently developed a green treatment that saves spas money and reduces waste.

Culbertson’s research showed that each paraffin hand or foot treatment contributes eight ounces of petroleumbased wax into landfills – with some spas offering these paraffin treatment add-ons with every visit, that’s a lot of wax going into landfills. So she set out to create a new concept, something similar to paraffin products but with better results from natural ingredients. She came up with a combination of shea butter, coconut oil, plant extracts and natural scents to create a new treatment that is petroleum-free. Culbertson’s new treatment developed into the eco-fin line of eco-friendly spa products. Conveniently packed in pre-measured cubes, eco-fin treatments are singleuse and take just seconds for a sanitary, mess–free clean up. They are 100% disposable and biodegradable which keeps more toxic paraffin from being dumped into landfills.

Promote Green Products - When planning your studio, clinic or spa menu, research alternative products that can save waste in landfills, use fewer toxins, and cause less pollution. Share your

conservation efforts and results with staff and clientele by proudly touting your eco-friendly policies. Use organic cotton sheets, blankets, towels, and robes that use all natural processing for less environmental impact. Use compostable table liners and mitt and bootie liners that are UV activated and biodegradable. Offer clients DBP, toluene and formaldehyde-free vegan nail lacquers, as well as organic and gluten-free body and skin care products. Use and retail organic coconut wax candles that contain no petroleum products, synthetic fragrances, or chemical dyes. Think locally by using fresh, organic food from small producers if you have a spa café, or try an organic garden on-site for herbs or other spa treatment ingredients. You could create treatments that highlight local resources, such as an organic honey and sugar scrub with locally sourced organic honey. Consider offering clients classes in cooking, nutrition or healthy spa treatments and show them how to make their own at-home spa products!

Future Salon & Spa Trends -The spa industry continues to flourish and there are many predictions about future trends. Services catering to Baby Boomers with luxurious medical and traditional spa based anti-aging treatments will be common. Services geared toward Gen X and Millennials will consist of economical, ecological, and high-tech services. Future trends will include more creative services provided out of the treatment room: poolside, on the beach or in the forest. “Earthing” movements include services that promote direct contact with the ground and elements of the Earth. Ayurvedic and traditional indigenous healing treatments will continue to rise in popularity. Men’s treatments will continue to become widely available, as will non-invasive high-tech treatments such as laser, micro-current, and ultrasound therapy. Genetic testing and telomere testing (for cellular age) may deliver the best methods for personalized anti-aging and preventative treatments.

Finally, wellness services are growing exponentially in spas with increased attention to stress reduction, meditation, yoga, nutrition, and lifestyle counseling.

The sky is the limit for future green spa services and the integration of wellness with every other aspect of our lives continues to increase and be accepted as a necessity in today’s world.

Universal Companies, “Your One Source Spa Solution”™ has become a single-source supplier to over 30,000 spa professionals in 47 countries. For more information, call 800-558-5571 or visit www.UniversalCompanies.com.

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22 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Switch to Switch to SureThik Floats Longer SureThik, the Canadian developers of SureThik Hair Thickening Fibers, recently completed a photo comparison to demonstrate the difference between SureThik and other products currently being offered to salons and the consumer. The test showed that SureThik continues to float for at least 5 minutes when placed in water, while other brands started to sink after 1-5 seconds.

remain in place and won’t run. The company attributes this to their use of a special light grade of wool and the fact that they don’t use commercial dyes that don’t absorb and lock into the actual fiber. This can be a problem with some lower quality Chinese brands that are imported into the US and re-packaged as USA-made products.

Switch to Switch to

While there are many ineffective products that fail to deliver successful results, Laser Hair Therapy is being hailed as a life-changing female hair loss treatment.

HairConsultant.com has produced this “infographic” to illustrate the available options to women suffering from hair loss.

The main benefit is NOT if a person sweats or & IS WILL SURETHIK WILL RUN RAIN &NOT SWEAT PROO SURETHIK RUN & IS R is caught in the rain, SureThik fibers will

Do The “Water Test” & See For Yourself!

Do The “Water Test” & See

Acceptance/Coping - Support groups, community chapters, online forums and counseling may serve as a reassuring outlet for women who are seeking support.

Alternative Treatments - Currently, there are three hair loss supplements approved by the FDA. 7% of patients reportedly suffered a negative reaction when receiving one or more of these treatments.

Camouflage - Within the U.S. 75% of all faux-hair products are sold to women.

SURETHIK WILL NOT SURETHIK RUN & IS WILL RAIN &NOT SWEAT RUN & PROO IS R 5 seconds 10 seconds

Seconds are some rather frightening Hair Transplantation -3There risks associated with this method including scarring, postoperative infection, excessive bleeding, delayed healing and damaged hair follicles.

3 Seconds

5 seconds

3 Seconds 5 Seconds Do The “Water Test” & See Do The For Yourself!

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SureThik Fibers are made of all natural Keratin with no chemicals nono synt SureThik Fibers are made ofharsh all natural Keratinand with ha

Laser Hair Therapy - An effective women’s hair loss SureThik Ingredients: treatment option has emerged in recent years and is quickly gaining attention with it’s estimated Keratin (Ultra Fine, 94.4% Unprocessed Wool(Ultra 99%) Keratin success rate!

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SureThik Ingredients: SURETHIK IS – Silica, Fine, Unprocessed Wool 99%) – Silica, SO IT IS LESS Premium Grade Color Dyes

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womens-hair-loss-treatment2. Keratin (source of keratin unknown), 2. Keratin Ammonium (source of keratin unknown), Ammonium 5 seconds 5Iodopropynl seconds 3infographic Seconds 3 Seconds Chloride, Silica, Dmdm Hydantion, Iodopropynl Butyl Hydantion, 10 Chloride, Silica, Dmdm Butyl Carbonate, Color Dyes

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SureThik are made of SureThik all natural Fibers Keratin are made with no ofharsh all natural chemicals Keratinand with nono synt ha Want to be Successful in the Laser Hair Fibers Business?

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Ammonium Rayon, Cotton, Nylon, Keratin, Ammonium Chloride, Keratin Fine, Unprocessed Keratin Wool(Ultra 99%) Chloride, Fine, – Silica, Unprocessed Wool 99%) – Silica, a 10 percent increase from 2010.

Silica Silica SO IT IS LESS DET Premium Grade Premium Grade 27g Color Dyes 27g Color Dyes

If you’re not Hair Market Update seeing results The non-surgical hair replacement market Based on the estimated number of 310,624 like this Other Hair Fiber Brands: Other Hair Fiber Brands: softened in 2013 as consumers tightened their hair restoration procedures performed in 1. Plant Resinous Fiber, Keratin Derivative, Plant Anti Static Fiber, Keratin Derivative, Antifee*Static everyday... belts. In1.the medicalResinous segment, International 2012, multiplied by the average charged 13g ofAgent, Society Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) to13g patients for a Dyes procedure, the estimated Agent, Ammonium Bicarbonate, Color Dyes Ammonium Bicarbonate, Color you should be! statistics indicate that demand for hair restoration worldwide market for hair restoration was 2. Keratin (source of keratin unknown), 2. Keratin Ammonium (source of keratin unknown), Ammonium remained strong despite a sluggish economy. calculated as $ 1,931,599,813 (USD).

Chloride, Silica, Dmdm Hydantion, Chloride, Iodopropynl Silica,patients Dmdm Butyl Butyl The majority of hair restoration are 87 Hydantion, Iodopropynl SureThik Hair Fibers Carbonate, Color Dyes Carbonate, Color Dyes percent males. While scalp procedures continue Other Notable Trends And Facts to dominate transplants, facial, mustache, Fromunknown), The Ishrs 2013 Practice 2.5g 2.5g SureThik Hair Fibers 3. Keratin (source of keratin unknown), 3. these Keratin Cetrimonium (source of keratin Cetrimonium or beard surgeries are taking off as part of the Census Survey Include: Chloride, Silica, Dmdm Hydantoin,Chloride, Iron Oxides, Silica, Color Dmdm Dyes Hydantoin, Iron Oxides, Color Dyes

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On The Rise Worldwide

Us2012, Tollmore Free Number of procedures performed increasedCall • In than half of both male andCall Us Toll www.SureThik.com 8513g percent female surgical patients worldwide fell between 1-855-5321-855-532-9182 13g the ages of 30 to 49 years old, 59.6% and Good hair never goes out of style in any 55.9%, respectively corner of the world, and results from a new SureThik Hairrestoration Fibers Com member survey conducted by the International • Of the estimated 310,624 hair Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) procedures performed worldwide in 2012, 2.5g shows men and women are going to great Europe experienced the2.5g biggest increase in the lengths on a global scale to restore hair loss. number of procedures with 54,343 procedures Since the ISHRS began tracking trends in performed in 2012 (a 39% increase from hair restoration with its first Practice Census 2010) member survey in 2005, the extrapolated worldwide volume of surgical hair restoration • From 2010 to 2012, hair restoration procedures performed from 2004 to 2012 procedures performed on the eyebrow and Call Us Toll Free Call Us Toll jumped 85 percent. The largest gains were face (moustache/beard) increased 13.1% www.SureThik.com 1-855-532-9182 1-855-532reported in Asia and the Middle East.

• Asia conducted the largest amount of Despite weak economic growth in many areas eyelash (601), eyebrow (5,160) and facial hair of the world in 2012, the demand for hair restorations (1,904) restoration increased slightly overall from 2010 to 2012 with a few exceptions. The • SHRS members chose John Mayer as the extrapolated worldwide number of surgical male celebrity with the best hair and Sofia hair restoration procedures performed in Vergara as the female celebrity with the best 2012 was approximately 310,624, up 10 hair percent from 2010. For the first time since the Practice Census was administered, • Prince William was voted the celebrity for Asia topped the list as the region with the whom ISHRS members would most like to most procedures performed – 102,702 hair perform a hair transplant

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Continued on Page 23 ›

23 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Flash Report

THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL

HAIRDRESSING SCIENCE LECTURES on DVD

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9267 1384 www.trichol ogy .ed u.a u

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Relevance of pH How pH affects hair Disulphide Bond Effects of chemicals

EUROPEAN DIRECTOR Hans Diks

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©2012 Inte r n a t i ona l As soc iat

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HAIRDRESSING SCIENCE LECTURES

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‹ Hair Market Update continued from Page 22

About the Survey - The ISHRS 2013 Practice Census survey is a compilation of information provided solely by participating physicians. The information was developed from actual historical information and does not include any projected information. The margin of error for the sample is plus or minus 6.5 percent at the 95 percent confidence level. The International Society of Hair Restoration Surgery (ISHRS) is a non-profit medical association with a membership of over 1,200 physicians worldwide.

services also grew at about 3.5%. Cutting and styling services grew by less than 2%. Nail care services also grew at a lower rate of 7.5%, due to the weak economy.”

Low Growth For Salons

• A dynamic shift continues from independent salons and mid-tier chains toward familyeconomy chains and chair/suite rentals and upscale men’s barbershops.

Overall industry product sales grew 2.7%, with salon hair products growing 2.8%.

Total revenues for all salon industry services (hair, skin, nails) plus salon retail grew at a sluggish 2.7%, according to the new 2013 Professional Salon Industry Haircare Study from Professional Consultants & Resources, a leading salon industry strategic consultants and data source. The total U.S. salon haircare market segment (services plus retail) registered $64.8 billion, representing growth of just 2.3%. There are nearly 301,000 salons and barbershops using and selling haircare products in the United States.

“The state of our salon industry is weak and rapidly changing,” says Cyrus Bulsara, president of Professional Consultants & Resources.

“Major national macroeconomic factors impacting the salon industry include generally lower disposable incomes, high real unemployment, government regulations slowing expansion, wage and job uncertainty created by national health care, and the U.S. Fed and fiscal policy. Haircare product sales like shampoos, conditioners, hair sprays, hair styling and specialty products are being hurt by the dynamic shift toward family-economy chains and chair/suite rentals, which do not sell products effectively. The only bright spot is hair-coloring services with a 3.7% growth, due to an aging population and the desire for fashion hair color. Keratin and straightening

LEGAL ADVISOR Joel Morgenthau

CONTRIBUTING CORRESPONDENTS James Toscano Bobbi Russell Mark Deo Toni Love Steven Dimanni, Editor Emeritus Marilyn Wayne

©2012 Inte rnat

HAIRDRESSING SCIENCE LECTURES

by David Salinger

EDITOR IN CHIEF Christopher Webb @nationalhairjournal.com

TECHNICAL ADVISORS Isaac Brakha Dr. Shelley Friedman Larry Oskin/ Maryla Fraser

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Patches of Baldness Common problems The Microscope Examining hair problems

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The International Association of Trichologists has just produced four lectures (on two DVDs) by David Salinger, suitable for playing on a DVD player or computer that hairdressers and hairdressing students might wish to purchase. The lectures are “The Relevance of pH” (how pH affects the hair and changes hydrogen peroxide), “Disulphide bonds” (how perms, tints, bleaches change the hair), “Patches of baldness” (the main hair loss problems seen by hairdressers), and “The Microscope” (photos of hairs with different problems). The total cost, inclusive of freight, is A$120. For further information contact <dsalinger@ozemail.com.au.

The National Hair & Skin Journal was founded in 1997 as a business resource for salon and clinic owners. Its mission is to provide hair-management professionals from all disciplines with accurate information that will help them provide superior service to their patients. It is a full-color tabloid, published quarterly and distributed worldwide.

Major highlights of the study include: • The hot men’s sector grew more than 7%.

The 2013 study details men’s salon services and provides an in-depth analysis.

L’Oréal Professional, P&G Professionals and John Paul Mitchell Systems, respectively, ranked as the top three manufacturers. Shiseido (Joico and Zotos), Estee Lauder (Aveda and Bumble + bumble), Colomer/Revlon (American Crew, Abba, Roux, UniqueONE, multicultural division and others) and KAO (Goldwell/KMS California) follow.

BSG/Cosmoprof, SalonCentric stores and independent distributor stores. · Major players in the chair/suite rental category include Sola, Salon Plaza, Salon Lofts, Solera, Phoenix, Salons by TJ, Salon Concepts etc. · Sales at Regis continued their decline. In 2014, the company may shed its high-end salons in order to concentrate on its value brands. · Great Clips and Sport Clips both experienced high 8.8% and 13% growth, respectively, as family-economy chains flourished. · Sales of styling products increased by 4%, in part due to the increase in home hairstyling, made easier by new genres of styling tools. · Sales of specialty products continued to grow at nearly 5%, as oils like Argan, Sea Buckthorn Berry, Macadamia and Mythic grew rapidly for all types of hair. · Sales of shampoos and conditioners grew at low singledigits, mainly due to back-bar use after hair color and smoothing treatments, and via salon-retail for color protection and new genres of scalp treatment products.

Other trends

· Sales at major U.S. distributor Beauty Systems Group (BSG) grew 5.1%, while sales

by L’Oréal’s SalonCentric declined 2.7%. · Sally Beauty store sales were flat, due to lower disposable incomes and, consequently, lower sales to both salons and consumers. · C and D class chair/suite rental salons and consumers shop at Sally stores. Highend independent salons, plus A and B class chair/suite rentals, drove full-service sales at

· Mega salon-store Ulta grew by more than 20%, primarily due to salon products sold at deep discounts combined with special offers. · Sales of Wella, Aveda and Bumble + bumble grew via direct sales, while direct sales of Kerastase declined. · Redken and John Paul Mitchell Systems were the only major companies showing growth.

Wella’s exclusive sales grew, while open-line sales declined. Sexy Hair, Pravana and Keune showed double-digit growth.

EDITORIAL POLICY The National Hair & Skin Journal is 100% independent and is not beholden to, or influenced by, any individual investor, manufacturer or other commercial interest. The Journal does not pay for the use of submitted material but it will give credit to contributors. Wherever possible, we encourage writers not to include company or brand names unless they are necessary for a more complete understanding of the article. The National Hair & Skin Journal works hard to ensure that all published material is objective, fair and courteous.

It reserves the right to edit material it deems to be overly commercial or that unnecessarily denigrates a competitor. The National Hair & Skin Journal has a history of profiling prominent personalities in the hair-management industry.

These interviews are based upon the prominence of the candidate and requests by Journal readers.

Interviewees do not pay to be profiled and there is no commercial relationship between interviewees and their advertising.

ADVERTISING To place an advertisement or request a Media Kit, contact us at advertising@nationalhairjournal.com or call 626-709-6397 SUBSCRIPTIONS To subscribe, visit www.nhjsubs.com or write subscriptions@nationalhairjournal.com.

LEGAL NOTICE The views expressed in The National Hair & Skin Journal are those of the individual author or contributor and not those of The National Hair & Skin Journal, its editors or staff. The Journal’s contents reflect the opinions of the authors and are not analyzed, peer-reviewed or otherwise investigated before publication. All authors and contributors are asked to disclose any interests they have of a commercial nature. The National Hair & Skin Journal makes no attempt to validate the sufficiency of such disclosures and makes no warranty, guarantee or other representation, expressed or implied, with respect to the accuracy or sufficiency of any information provided.

The publication of an advertisement does not constitute on the part of The National Hair & Skin Journal a guarantee or endorsement of the quality or value of the advertised product or service or any of the representations or claims made by the advertiser. The National Hair & Skin Journal accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials.

All articles and letters become the property of The National Hair & Skin Journal and may be edited for clarity, presentation and space. By allowing your articles, interviews and personal commentary to be used in The National Hair & Skin Journal, you are giving the publication permission to use these materials in its pages, website and other information materials. Advertisers are required to sign a formal advertising agreement indicating that they are not violating any trademarks or other intellectual properties. Full details are outlined in The National Hair & Skin Journal Media Kit. COPYRIGHT The material published in The National Hair & Skin Journal is copyrighted and may not be utilized in any form without the written consent of the editor.

THE NATIONAL HAIR & SKIN JOURNAL 39252 Winchester Road, #107-383 Murrieta, CA 92563 Tel: 626-709-6397 Info@NationalHairJournal.com Printed in USA

24 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

A New Generation of Hair Building Fiber Live Your Life Fuller

Keeping Hair Healthy Naturally There’s nothing wrong with special conditioners and “fortified” shampoos, but sometimes the simple things are the best. Here’s some advice from Sam Richie at HIve Health Media: Stop smoking and heavy drinking: It can reduce blood flow to the scalp, which has a direct effect on your hair growth.

Protein: It’s a simple fact – protein grows hair. So make sure you’re getting plenty of it in your diet. This includes working meats and dairy foods into your diet. Consuming a daily protein shake can also help.

New Focus Hair Building Fibers is a unique complex of pure keratin protein. Charged with static electricity, these microscopic fibers blend and bond securely with existing

Water: Drinking six to eight cups of water per day doesn’t just help fend off early heart disease, but it can also help ensure your hair stays full and healthy for longer. The hair shaft is comprised of about 25 percent water, so to a certain extent you need to “feed” your hair.

Get plenty of vitamins: Vitamin A, B, C and E all help with hair growth. Make sure you’re getting enough of them every day and consider adding a supplement if you’re not.

hair to produce dramatic density and volume and provide undetectable all-day coverage to thinning and balding areas.

Completely natural, safe and effective, Focus Hair Fibers will not fade, even under direct sunlight. Focus is compatible with all hair loss treatments and safe to use after hair transplants. Focus fibers can withstand rain, wind and sweat, and yet can be washed out easily with any shampoo. When your clients apply Focus to their scalp, they will see their thinning areas vanish before their eyes.

New Focus Hair Building Fibers - today’s solution for men and women who want to look young and feel beautiful.

For more information on our introductory wholesale pricing, please call Toll Free 1.877.737.4247 or visit our website at

It’s All About the Guest Experience A case study from our cousins in the beauty industry ‘Studio Be’ boasts a unique business model that starts from the moment guests call to make an appointment. The salon employs a team dedicated solely to guest reservations, answering phones in an upstairs office so phones aren’t ringing in the salon, allowing ‘Experience Managers’ at the welcome desk to focus solely on greeting guests.

In addition, a separate shampoo area features a multi-sensory ambiance—music and dimmed lighting – and creates a tranquil room for guests away from the styling area. Going above and beyond to make guests comfortable, the salon offers a better drink menu than many restaurants.

Everything Studio Be does is with the intention to inspire guests to express their individuality and reach their full potential.

The salon leadership believes this is best achieved through investing in employee welfare programs, in the mindset that if you take care of your employees, they take care of your guests. All stylists go through an intensive apprenticeship program, followed by monthly training emphasizing creative, business and finance skills. The salon also values six-hour work shifts, a tiered commission scale and annual staff trips to Mexico and Las Vegas.

Studio Be is gaining recognition from industry leaders including recently being named winners of the 2013 American Salon Magazine Pinnacle Award. They have been recognized as one of the Top 200 Salons by Salon Today in 2013 and 2014, and were finalists for the 2013 North American Hair Styling Awards (NAHA).

Source Mandy.Cummings@wildrockpr.com

www.focushaircare.com.

Who Said Stars Won’t Endorse Hair Restoration?

Dr. Robert Leonard doesn’t have this problem “In this business it’s hard not to know Dr. Leonard, his Wes Welker commercials are everywhere. As a sportscaster, I see Dr. Leonard as part of the landscape,” said Tom Caron.

Tom has now joined a wellknown group of spokesmen for Dr. Leonard including AllPro Wide Receiver Wes Welker, NFL Player Chris Gronkowski, Former Boston Bruin Lyndon Byers, Television Star Kevin Chapman and Professional Poker Player Jeff Gross.

Tom Caron is an 18-year NESN veteran and serves as host of the network’s Red Sox pre and post-game programming. The Lewiston, Maine native also serves as the network’s college hockey play-by-play announcer and blogs regularly at NESN.com. When looking back on the challenges with his hair loss, he explained that certain angles on TV and the lighting would make it seem as if he didn’t have a lot of hair. Dr. Leonard performed a traditional strip procedure on Tom in November 2013. “Come Spring, when the Red Sox are back in action, it will be nice not to worry about my hair,” said Caron.

Dr. Robert Leonard is Founder and Chief Surgeon, Leonard Hair Transplant Associates in Rhode Island.

25 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Hair

and

Skin Society News

From The Boardroom

Board members: Lisa Zimmerman, National Hair Centers, Phoenix, AZ, Bobbi Russell, Hair Therapy For Women, FL, Lucinda Beaty, Lucinda’s Hair, Jimmy “The General” Toscano, Toscano’s Hair Consultants, PA, Lonnie Gilbert, Apollo Seattle, WA and Gilberto Febles from Gilberto’s Hair Illusion in Miami, FL.

Hello Society

members…and about to be Society members… 2014 is going to be an exciting year! The Society is privileged to welcome Lisa Zimmerman as President for 2014. She has a lot of exciting projects planned, but the first thing Lisa and the board decided was to re-focus The Society firmly on hair loss solutions. Skin rejuvenation may be a logical and important extension of hair restoration, but there remains much to do to consolidate and expand our current market. With this in mind, she has started work on an inter-active website where members can network among themselves and access the new support services that the board plans to bring online.

Sincerely, Heather Simon, Client Service Director

techniques and products and has recently created a new application for hair extensions. Joseph is committed to continuing education and a positive attitude and credits “The Greats” like Gilberto Febles and Anthony Plumb for his success. Joseph is looking forward to a rewarding 2014, as he continues with the work that he loves!

LaDonna Roye, LaDonna Hair Stylist & Hairloss Solutions, Naples, FL After 36 years in the hair industry, LaDonna Roye could easily be “burned out,” but a few years ago she went to her first hair replacement conference.

It was during that conference that neurons started firing in her brain. She was exposed to things she had never seen in a regular hair salon. She was startled to learn that so many women and men are experiencing hair loss and she discovered she could develop the skills to help them. Once she started offering wigs and other forms of hair replacement in her salon, she began to attract more and more people who needed them because of medically related hair loss. Her biggest passion is being able to help people be happy about the person they see in the mirror. Please welcome LaDonna Roye to the Society and visit her website at www.ladonnaroye.com.

MEMBER CONTRIBUTIONS

A WORD FROM THE PRESIDENT It is an honor and privilege to have

Welcome To Gigi’s Corner – Gigi (Gloria Ford) from ‘All About Hair’, has offered to host a special ‘market feedback’ section in The Journal so you can share your opinions about issues and trends of the industry. Gigi has been in the hair loss industry for over 30 years and has studied and interviewed many hair replacement experts. But when she asked them what their definition of “non-surgical hair replacement” was, she always received a vague response based on a technique or application. Nobody spoke about the customer benefit. So Gigi invites you to share your thoughts - the question is: What Is Your Definition of Non-Surgical Hair Replacement?

Joining the 2014 Professional Advisory of Directors is truly an “all star” team of successful industry professionals. People with years of experience and specialists offering to share their knowledge with you. They are devoting their time and energy and passing on their skills and expertise to Society members, because, like me, someone once did the same for them. With great pride, let me introduce The Professionals Advisors for 2014:

Send your answers by email to Heather Simon, hsimon@nationalhairjournal.com and we will print them in the next edition of The National Hair Journal.

been elected president of The Society for 2014. The Society’s core mission has always been to support and assist industry professionals, like you and me. Business owners and industry leaders sharing their experience and knowledge with others, for everyone’s mutual benefit.

As owner of National Hair Centers, in Phoenix, AZ, I understand the importance of learning from and sharing with other industry professionals. While this has always been the goal of the Society, in 2014 we are really taking this commitment to the next level. This year’s focus is to raise industry standards and make The Society your ultimate resource for all things related to your business success.

Jimmy Toscano – Jimmy, affectionately nicknamed “The General”, is a hugely talented and much loved expert in hair system design and attachment. Jimmy owns a busy and growing business in Pittsburgh, but, as many friends know, he will always find time to help and support anyone in need.

Lucinda Beaty – Famous for her zest for life and passion for business, Lucinda is virtually a “fixture” at hair shows and workshops across the country. Today, Lucinda is devoting a major portion of her time working to help women with medical needs. Lucinda is truly one-of-akind and we are privileged to have her working with us!

Gilberto Febles – What can I say? Gilberto has the energy and passion of ten ordinary men.

Located in Miami, Gilberto has a fashion-conscious clientele for whom he creates stunning hair additions and replacements. He is an invaluable addition to the board.

Lonnie Gilbert – Lonnie brings all aspects of the business together. A successful business owner in the Pacific Northwest, Lonnie was previously a customer service director for New Image Labs. Whatever your business challenge, Lonnie has seen it before and has an effective solution!

As for myself, I have had the privilege of owning and operating one of the largest hair restoration facilities in the country, in fact, the world. My father, Arnold Zimmerman and I built our business with disciplined marketing, continually expanding our core business to include new technologies and industry advancements. First and foremost, our company was built on a commitment to top-notch customer service.

I look forward to sharing my experiences and strategies with you, Lisa D. Zimmerman

THE SOCIETY WELCOMES ITS LATEST MEMBERS Nikkie Lee, Innovative Hair Designs Salon, Des Moines, WA - Nikkie Lee has been a salon owner for 15 years. She is a graduate of Dekalb Beauty College in Stone Mountain, GA and has been a licensed cosmetologist for 20 years and a hair loss consultant for 14 years. She has been helping women in the greater Pacific Northwest since 1996. Her passion is to help women find and maintain their inner beauty. Her specialties include healthy hair care, hair extensions and hair loss solutions. Nikkie has trained with On Rite; Dudley’s Advanced Hair Academy; Trichology Institute; The Make-Up Institute; Sukies Hair Cutting Academy; and SHE by SO.CAP.USA extensions certification class. She was also an educator for Avlon Industries, a research and development company that manufactures hair care products. When Nickkie was diagnosed with Alopecia, she decided to study Trichology to learn more about hair loss causes and solutions. She is currently working on her Masters in Trichology at the Elan Center for Trichology in Madison, AL. Nikkie invites you to visit her website at www. hairextensionsbynikkielee.com or www.innovativehairdesign.com.

Joseph Talucci, Joseph Michael Salon, Grand Junction, CO - Joseph Michael Talucci has been in the hair replacement industry for 30 years. He is an internationally known designer and educator having studied in London, South Africa and the United States. For 8 years, Joseph worked as a platform artist for Image Labs and today is the owner of Joseph Michael Salon & Hair Restoration Studio in Colorado. He is involved in the development of new

Angela Robinson from ADR Creative Hair from Maitland, FL Talks About Her Experience Using ‘Leading Hair’ Products, by Heather Simon – I had the opportunity to speak to Angela Robinson recently regarding her experience using ‘Leading Hair’ products. Angela explained the wigs are lightweight, comfortable and do not require thinning. They are natural looking and they literally feel like a feather. In fact, Leading Hair has a ‘Feather Collection’ with synthetic fibers they claim look and feel like human hair. Some of the Feather Collection synthetic wigs are offered in double silk mono top, which is not readily available through other distributors. The skin grip tab attaches to the scalp as soon as it meets the skin. Angela also likes that Leading Hair carries a children’s collection. Their human hair collection comes pre-cut with quality hair in desirable styles and is available in double silk mono top. All wigs can be ordered machine-made or hand tied. Angela gives the company accolades for design and customer service. For more information about Leading Hair, please visit their website at www.leadinghair.com.

A New Health and Wellness Program from Bridget Winton of ‘Bridget’s Essence of Beauty’ Salon, San Diego, by Heather Simon – I recently visited Bridget as she was conducting a class to educate studio owners about incorporating health and wellness products into their salons. The products demonstrated ranged from studio/movie makeup to customized supplements, including activated B-complex and skin anti-aging remedies. Bridget stated, “It’s not only important for my hair clients to look and feel good, it’s also a good way to increase profits. I see myself as a one-stop shop to help my clients.” I had the opportunity to try the ‘Motives’ makeup line and I really liked it. It is similar to Mac makeup, but less expensive.

I also tried the ‘Isotonix’ antioxidant supplement for 3 days and found it beneficial. Bridget Winton reminds all that we have to keep up with our customers’ expectations. We will share more case histories like this and other ideas to help your bottom line in the weeks ahead.

Meanwhile, if you would like more information about getting started in a program like Bridget Winton’s, you can contact her at beob@aol.com or visit her website at www.shop.com/beob.

Hair Systems That Work For Both Men And Women – by Gerri Hergert From Abstrax Hair Designs. A hair system is one of the best hair loss solutions to restore your client’s natural appearance. Whether the cause is genetic, medication or stress, the loss of hair can be addressed in many ways.

Medications such as Rogaine work for some. Hair transplant surgery might, or might not, be right for your clients. The techniques and technologies of 21st century hair systems have redefined what it means to fight Alopecia. Baldness is now truly just an option, in part because the hair replacement application is semi permanent. There is a broad range of what you can do to address thinning, patches or even advanced hair loss and the solutions can be fine tuned to your client’s head, individual hair loss condition and their style preferences. A modern hair system is also about common sense. The hair system that works for a 28-year-old will be quite different from what is right for a 58-year-old. There are more natural, more realistic ways of giving people back the hair they once had through a quality hair integration system. Just as important, this approach to managing hair loss is noninvasive. Maintenance and cost questions can be answered upfront. Are your clients athletic?

Then the type of bond you choose for your client will matter. Does your client like to change styles? Is it possible on their budget? Investigate which hair replacement plan fits your clients available resources. When you understand more about your client’s options, you’ll be better able to have your clients work with a stylist as well. At Abstrax Hair Designs, our professional stylists understand both the technical and aesthetic features of good hair systems. When hair systems stylists are really good, they understand their clients’ needs. That’s why you want to listen to your clients at their free consultation and make a list of questions.

26 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

Is Your Leadership Hurting the Bottom Line?

4 ‘Bad Leader Behaviors’ That Affect Productivity, Profits What can business leaders and managers learn from watching the earnings of publicly traded companies? “Plenty,” says Kathleen Brush, a 25-year veteran of international business and author of “The Power of One: You’re the Boss,” a guide to developing the skills necessary to become an effective, respected leader. “When looking at the corporations reporting lowerthan-expected earnings, you need to read between the lines. They are not going to admit that the reason is a failure of leadership, but 99 times out of 100 that’s what it is.”

She cites Oracle, the business hardware and software giant, which recently reported a quarterly revenue shortfall based on a decline in new software licenses and cloud subscriptions. The company is “not at all pleased with our revenue growth this quarter,” Oracle co-president Safra Catz told analysts.

“What we really saw was a lack of urgency that we sometimes see in the sales force...” They are pointing the finger at the employees, but they are really admitting a failure of leadership, Brush says.

“Do you know how simple it is for managers to motivate sales people? If indeed the lack of sales urgency is the problem. There are dozens of bad leader behaviors that can cause sales to decline,” she explains. In her work for companies around the country, from restructuring operations to improving profitability, Brush says she sees an epidemic of bad leader behaviors. “When I point them out, most leaders downplay, or refuse to acknowledge, the impact their behaviors are having on their bottom line. But, in companies where leaders change these behaviors, employees become engaged and motivated.

It is really that simple to increase productivity, innovation, and the bottom line,” she says. “If you’re a boss examining your own lower-thanexpected performance, instead of wasting time searching for scapegoats, look in the mirror.

Most bosses unwittingly exhibit bad leader behaviors daily that cause their businesses to suffer.”

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Here Are Four Increasingly Prevalent And Damaging Behaviors: • The unethical boss: This is a category that doesn’t just annoy employees, it appalls them.

As such, it’s a powerful demotivater. When a boss breaks or fudges the rules, cheats, lies or indulges in behaviors that reveal a lack of moral principles, he or she loses employees’ respect. Without their respect, a boss cannot lead. In addition, when a leader indulges in unethical practices, he gives his employees permission to do the same. Padding mileage reports, splurging on business travel expenses, failing to take responsibility for mistakes – they all become endorsed activities by the boss – the role model.

• The unfair boss: Our current societal efforts to treat people equally – think gay marriage, health care reform, the children of undocumented immigrants – have led to confusion among some leaders about “equality” versus “fairness” in the workplace.

“I talked to a manager who gave all his employees the same pay raise because ‘he wanted to be fair,’ ” Brush recalls. He then seemed mystified that the productivity of his best employees declined to that of an average worker. “Rewards can be powerful tools of motivation, but they must be administered fairly.”

• The buddy boss: Bosses can never be buddies with their employees. Ever.

Friendships neutralize the boss’s authority and power. They can also cloud a leader’s objectivity and hinder her ability to correct

behaviors, to delegate, and to hold employees accountable. When friendships compromise output, it’s the boss who will be accountable.

“Be friendly to employees, but do not cross the line that muddies the relationship between boss and friend. It could cost you your job.”

Brush says.

• The disorganized boss: Workplaces are filled with employees who lack direction because disorganized leaders don’t deliver and manage plans and strategies to guide their teams. What’s the chance of an unguided team maximizing its productivity to create competitively superior innovative widgets?

“What’s the chance of employees being inspired by a leader who leads like a doormat or by random thoughts?” says Brush.

“As a manager, you wield a tremendous amount of power,” she says. “You can be an incredibly negative power or a positive one who’s looked up to by both peers and employees. For the latter, bosses have to purge the bad behaviors.”

Kathleen Brush has more than two decades of experience as a senior executive with global business responsibilities. She has a Ph.D. in management and international studies. Brush has been teaching, writing and consulting on international business and leadership for companies of all sizes, public and private, foreign and domestic.

27 The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14

ANTI-GLYCATION: The Next Level in the Battle Against Aging Things Everyone Should Know About the Effects of Sugar on Skin Most people today know antioxidants to be an effective method of fighting age, but few are aware of the biological process underlying for most skin damage – and what directly addresses the problem, says skin-care expert Ron Cummings.

“The word that has been on the minds of dermatologists and other skin-care researchers for many years is glycation, which is what happens on the cellular level to age our skin,” says Cummings. Glycation – damage to proteins caused by sugar molecules – has long been a focus of study in people with diabetes, because it results in severe complications, such as blindness and nerve damage. People with uncontrolled diabetes have excess blood sugar, so they experience a higher rate of systemic glycation, he says.

“Antioxidants fight inflammation caused by free radicals, which are largely created from external, environmental factors such as excessive sunlight or cigarette smoke. Glycation, though, damages from the inside out.”

Using antioxidants and topical moisturizers are a good start to keeping the effects of aging at bay, but they only go so far, Cummings says. Even more important is reversing the damage to skin caused by glycation, which became possible only recently.

Cummings shares two points anyone interested in skin care should know about glycation: • Glycation is the skin’s No.1 aging factor. Sugar molecules in our body bombard our cells like a ferocious hail storm, bonding with fats and proteins. The proteins then become misshapen and excrete exotoxins that disrupt cellular metabolism. Collagen, which makes skin look smooth and plump, is a protein that’s particularly vulnerable to glycation. The damage manifests as wrinkles, lines, discoloration and edema. Rather than attacking a cell from the outside, like a free radical, glycation occurs from within. • Anti-glycation topical solutions have been clinically shown to be effective. Old lotions, from your favorite moisturizer to Grandma’s secret facial solution to the new DIY recipe you found online act as a barrier to moisture evaporation.

But their effect is temporary, and they don’t prevent or reverse damage. New anti-glycation formulas, however, directly address aging by releasing the sugar molecule’s bond with protein, allowing the cell to return to its natural shape and state.

“Just as antioxidants have revolutionized anti-aging efforts around the world, anti-glycation will be understood to be exponentially more effective,” Cummings says.

About Ron Cummings - Ron Cummings is the founder and CEO of AminoGenesis Skin Care, which utilizes amino acids as the key ingredients to its age- and damage-reversing products. Cummings donated one of his products, a protective agent, to support military forces in Afghanistan and received a hearty letter of gratitude from the Marines of Special Operations Company Bravo, which described the product’s excellent performance, as well as a flag that was flown “in the face of the enemy, over Forward Operating Base Robinson in Sangin, Afghanistan.”

28â&#x20AC;&#x192; The National Hair Journal Winter 2013/14